ISSUE 62 by MOJEH

THE NEW GLAMOUR NÂ°62 2018

AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

THE VALLÃ&#x2030;E DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

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14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

ART

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE

Managing Editor NATASCHA HAWKE

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Acting Fashion & Beauty Editor DINA KABBANI

Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN

Sub-Editor SARAH WALKER-DUFTON

PUBLISHING Brand Manager KELLY BALDWIN

Contributing Editors DEVINDER BAINS SOPHIE BEW AIMEE DAWSON ANNIE DARLING LAURA BEANEY

Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE

Guest Fashion Stylists STUART ROBERTSON JULIE BROOKE WILLIAMS KEANOUSH DA ROSA INA LEKIEWICZ ANNA KLEIN SYLVESTER YIU WOO LEE

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Contributing Photographers KISSHOMARU SHIMAMURA STEPHANIE GALEA BORNA AHADI INA LEKIEWICZ CHANTELLE DOSSER PAUL FARNHAM CAMERON MCNEE MARK FIELD TINA PATNI RUI FARIA MANN

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LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Tel: +971 4 425 86 00 Email: louis@louisfourteen.com Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Cover photographed by RUI FARIA Model Mila Ganame wears PIAGET SUNLIGHT ESCAPE HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTION WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

IT’S PARTY TIME! The new rules of after dark style – because there’s more

than one way to dress for a party

DESIGN IN DEBT Innovation, think tanks and digital trends. MOJEH discovers how the fashion industry is shaping up in the anti-plastic era

BACK TO THE FUTURE Paris-based Lebanese scenographer, event designer and

model, Nour Mady experiments with Louis Vuitton’s future-

vintage cruise ’19 collection

CANDY CRUSH From butter yellow and watermelon pink to soft lavender, sweetie shades breathe life into your winter wardrobe

DRAMATIC JEWELS This month look out for MOJEH The Jewellery and Watch Book, the annual tome dedicated to magnificent high jewellery and haute horology. On shelves from mid-November. For more fabulous jewels turn to Haute Highlights on page 22.

Photographed by Tina Patni

Phoenix rose cut earrings in white gold with diamonds, DAVID MORRIS

108

WALK THIS WAY

126

Haute couture takes to the streets

FORCE OF NATURE Battle the elemtnts in the season’s strongest looks – a balance of femininity and force

172

CELESTIAL

198

Abstract beauty unfolds and traditional tones

take on new meaning

IN RETROSPECT: SHIRIN ALIABADI The late Iranian artist’s passion for women’s empowerment and a culture’s obsession with western ideals lives on in her work

158

Photographed by Rui Faria

A THOUSAND FIRES In this month’s cover shoot Piaget’s latest high jewellery collection, Sunlight Escape, goes under the spotlight. Enjoy as asymmetrical shapes implode with colour and sunkissed stones illuminate the day. Dazzling Glow ring, earrings and necklace in white gold with pink sapphires and diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY Suit, ELLERY | Bustier, LITKOVSKAYA | Gloves, CRISTIANO BURANI

EDITOR’S LETTER Photographed by Cameron McNee

TIME TO PARTY! The event season has arrived bringing with it countless invitations to the best parties in town. But what to wear? Once a trusty little black dress reigned, now the rules are: there are no rules. Thankfully fashion has become more free, and forward-thinking, rule-breaking designers like Chloé’s Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia, Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière and, of course, Dior’s feminist Maria Grazia Chiuri are successfully paving the way with collections that speak to our multiple style personalities. For today’s woman is – as Max Mara’s Nicola Gerber Maramotti told us in The Message (page 210) – a bit of everything: “She can be sexy and feminine and she can be a little wild: one third movie star, one third rock star, one third CEO.” With this in mind, the November issue pays tribute to our multifaceted style needs, be it advice on how to get dressed up in a dressed down world, as discussed by Sophie Bew in New Parisian Glamour For an Athleisure Age on page 52, or how to wear sequins to work (It’s Party Time! page 34). And because it’s party season we have packed the pages with a heady mix of show-stopping high jewellery from heavyweights like Piaget and Chanel, to sate any appetite. Let’s party! Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Hana Levan

head-turning haute couture, fabulous photoshoots and plenty of style ideas

THE MOJEH EDIT Inject your wardrobe with some megawatt glamour as feathers and a copious amount of diamonds take you forward into the party season ahead 1

3 2

4 6

Monaco Manchette in white gold, with sapphire, turquoise, lapis lazuli and diamonds, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY

HAUTE HIGHLIGHTS Magnificent high jewellery party pieces that will steal the spotlight

Photographed by Tina Patni Edited by Stuart Robertson

Edited by Natascha Hawke

Melody of Colors earrings in white gold with turquoise and amethyst, DE GRISOGONO

Melody of Colors ring in pink gold and amethyst, DE GRISOGONO

Siren Song double ring in white gold with diamonds, MESSIKA HIGH JEWELLERY

Earrings in white gold with black opal, diamond and paraibas, DAVID MORRIS

Emerald step cut ring with diamonds, FABERGÃ&#x2030;

PanthĂ¨re Duo watch in white gold case and bracelet set with diamonds, CARTIER HIGH JEWELLERY

Olympia necklace in white gold with diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Lace bracelet watch in white gold with diamonds, GRAFF

No.5 earrings in white gold with diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

Collier de Chien ring in rose gold with black spinels, HERMĂ&#x2C6;S

Antifer bangle in white gold with diamonds, REPOSSI

STYLE EDIT

IT’S

PARTY The new rules of after dark style – because there’s more than one way to dress for a party

ATTICO

TIME

GILDA AMBROSIO

METAL EXCESS Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern woman is swapping the tried-and-true party dress for something a little more daring. The new rules to follow? Paillette trousers instead of a sequinned mini; all out metallica with gold on silver and silver on gold. Foil, copper tones and reflective hues are your new party best friend.

2 1

DESIGNER TO WATCH

Words: Dina Kabbani

How to hit the party circuit this season? Look to Michael Halpern for head-to-toe sequins

1. ALBERTA FERRETTI at THE MODIST | 2. ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER at MY THERESA | 3. HILLIER BARTLEY at MATCHES FASHION | 4. MM6 MAISON MARGIELA at NET-A-PORTER

ON OUR RADAR Get on first-name terms with these disruptive young designers for cool-girl pieces with a modern edge.

MONSE

VERSACE

MAGDA BUTRYM

OSMAN at MATCHES FASHION | RODARTE at MODA OPERANDI

THE TRANSFORMATIVE PIECE There’s nothing sexier than a good bustier, but as A/W18’s collections are proving, there are slightly more constructive ways to wear the risqué boudoir-inflected trend than to bare it all. How to work it? Let Versace show you the way and pair the body-hugging armour over a simple white t-shirt for an effortlessly sculpted look that’ll take you from day to night.

RACIL

Olivia Palermo gives party dressing a modern edge

1. GUCCI at NET-A-PORTER | 2. ROCHAS at MATCHES FASHION | 3. AMINA MUADDI at FARFETCH

BALANCING ACT Forget about that sparkly cocktail dress in your closet. It’s time to break free from convention because yes, you can wear something other than a dress to that festive party. Clash textures and tones for something a little more out of the box. We dare you.

A NEW EDIT This borrowed-from-the-boys staple goes solo as Le Smoking is reinvented as a jacket/dress hybrid sans pants. Trés chic SAINT LAURENT

Floral-print sequin dress, HALPERN at MATCHES FASHION

Sequined crepe mini dress, 16ARLINGTON at NET-A-PORTER

SOIREE SACS From signature wristlets to micro minaudières, this season’s party pouches come packing quite the punch

ATTICO

Sculptural pieces for today’s modern day woman

MATEO at NET-A-PORTER

SAINT LAURENT at MATCHES FASHION

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN at OUNASS

IPPOLITA

NATHALIE TRAD at OUNASS

THE NEW EAR BLING Think modern take on Girl with a Pearl Earring and you’re close to hitting this season’s iteration of the power pearl. Gone are traditional stone settings, HUNTING SEASON at NET-A-PORTER

replaced by a more unconventional approach; think swinging orbs and celestial forms. Seek out up-and-coming independent fine jewellers and don pearls that cool girls really do wear.

Louis Vuitton’s Archlight sneaker – the go-to accessory for A/W18’s floor sweeping frocks

Shoes, GUCCI Boots, AQUAZURRA at MATCHES FASHION

PLAYING PAIRS As party frocks come out in full force, wearing a chunky trainer or an anklelength boot has suddenly never been more appropriate or, more comfortable. Question is, which to take out on the town. The new dress-shoe combo sees the skyscraper stiletto put to rest

THE GAME CHANGER Show-stopping, high-shine metallic boots demand attention. Give them the spotlight they deserve and take these babies out in the am – they’re too good to be worn only after dark

Space age silver boots hit the streets at Paris Fashion Week

Reflective metallics are this season’s must-have

Thigh-high – the boot to invest in now

THE COLLABORATIONS

Undisputed disco from Michael Halpern

HALPERN X TOPSHOP Michael Halpern talks about his playful, discoready partywear in collaboration with Topshop Why is it important for high-street retailers like Topshop to collaborate with emerging design talent? It goes back to being given the opportunity to do a beautiful, really in-depth campaign and to design a collection that will be sold all over the world. It’s

CHLOÉ X NET-A-PORTER Having won us all over with her debut collection for Chloé, Natacha Ramsay-Levi has launched an exclusive capsule collection with Net-a-Porter. The 27-piece line is packed with all the contemporary urban edge that has garnered Natacha a cult following, including accessory favourites the Rylee boot and Tess bag.

incredible to have been given this kind of exposure and this platform to talk about Halpern and the women we’re fans of, with a global brand like Topshop. What inspired the collection? We really wanted to give the Topshop customer our core essence – the glamour of the 1970s and those powerful women in resistance. What’s your favourite piece from the collection? The full green stretch-velvet look that Subah is wearing in the campaign is just, quite frankly, fabulous! What are your tips for styling the collection? I would say the same thing I would say to a Halpern collection woman: it has to feel authentic. Of course, it’s great to push your own boundaries and maybe try things you’ve never tried before, but you still need to feel comfortable and confident. I think it’s okay to go outside of your comfort zone a little bit, but never try to dress like someone you’re not, because it will never work. If the clothes help you feel more confident and ‘out there’, I think that’s the most exciting thing a designer can ever ask for. Available from early November; Topshop.com

Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s Chloé collection is available now at Net-a-Porter

LV X GRACE CODDINGTON Having previously collaborated with heavyweight names such as Jeff Koons and Stephen Sprouse, Louis Vuitton has seen its fair share of artists stamp their mark on the house’s famed monogram canvas. But the brand isn’t done yet; this season they’ve brought in legendary stylist Grace Coddington to put her spin on the iconic Louis Vuitton logo. Inspired by her legendary love of cats, the aptly named Catogram collection sees Grace’s illustrations of cats Pumpkin and Blanket, as well as Nicolas Ghesquière’s dog Léon, leap across a vacation-ready collection of leather goods, accessories, shoes and ready-to-wear. In stores this month, the pieces make for a covetable collection of travelling

Words: Dina Kabbani

companions, that will go with you anywhere.

A Grace Coddington Catogram bag

SANDRA MANSOUR

Girls print bag by Giles Deacon for Aspinal of London

NEW ON MODA OPERANDI

GILES DEACON X ASPINAL

In a season where the demand for cocktail dressing is great,

Quintessential British accessories brand Aspinal of London has

as party invitations come streaming in, Sandra Mansour’s romantic

teamed up with Giles Deacon on a colourful capsule collection

creations make for the perfect fete attending attire. Available

based on the couture designer’s hand-drawn illustration of the

now at Moda Operandi, her spring ’19 line offers a cool spin on

‘Aspinal girls’. The collaboration features an array of embroidered,

cocktail with all the fashion trimmings including fringes, ruffles

illustrated as well as printed bags, clutches and silk scarves in the

and the brand’s signature hand embroidery. Modaoperandi.com

season’s bright palette. At Aspinal in The Dubai Mall

42 THE ACCESSORIES

CHANEL CRUISE ’19

Coco Chanel and Duke Laurino of Rome

MAKING HEADWAY One cannot argue the fact that the French have always been on the cusp of cutting-edge fashion. And if we are looking for something to embody this quintessential sense of style, nothing possesses quite the same appeal as the beret. Its longstanding history of topping influential heads of Paris’ who’s who can be traced back all the way to the grand dame of style herself, Coco Chanel. From the 1930s onwards, her love affair with the iconic chapeau would be reinterpreted in her collections, brought to life in varied materials and shapes, a synonymous piece linked to the house of Chanel. Transcending the spirit of Gabrielle, Karl Lagerfeld has kept the classic staple alive, and for cruise ’19 he made sure that its appearance would be more relevant than ever. Soft, fitted and in pursuit of adventure, the seafaringinspired accessory took on an array of forms – rolling out in 15 different tweeds, from pastel shades to the deepest ultramarine tones. The multicoloured toppers, created by Maison Michel and embroidered by the Montex and Lesage ateliers, bore oversized Chanel-stamped jewellery brooches, a tribute to Gabrielle, who would often feminise her beret with an ornate brooch. Supple in texture and without seams, it reflected the cruise collection’s summery inspiration.

CHANEL CRUISE ’19

Photography: Time Life Pictures / Pictures Inc / The Life Picture Collection / Getty Images

How Chanel took Mademoiselle Coco’s famed accessory and made it the star of its cruise ’19 show

Valentina Micchetti (left) and Perla Alessandri, founders of Alevì

Shoe, ALEVÌ

SPOTLIGHT ON... Alevì – the cult new shoe label by Italian wonderwomen Valentina Micchetti and Perla Alessandri Alevì – what does the name stand for? Alevì comes from the union of our nicknames ‘Ale’ for (Perla) Alessandri and ‘Vi’ for Valentina. Where are the shoes made? We produce in Italy in San Mauro Pascoli. Perla’s family owns the factory that creates our shoes, and the ones of many other high fashion brands like Chanel and Saint Laurent. Personal favourites from the collection? We love our babies, but we have a soft spot for the Stella and Alessandra model. They are all about emphasising the legs, so very feminine and sexy. Who do you imagine wearing Alevì? We are strong women and our shoes have been created to be worn by women who are equally as confident. She’s someone who loves fashion and isn’t scared to show her femininity either. She’s on the go, travelling and needs versatility – to be able to choose shoes that she can match with different outfits. Heels or flats? Which do you prefer? We love stilettos! We would always pick a stiletto over a flat shoe, but for next season you will see our first pair of flats integrated in the collection. Available at Level Shoes

WISH LIST WORTHY A perennial favourite with the street style crowd, ankle-length white boots paired with bare legs and A/W18’s new skirt should be your go-to uniform this season

AQUAZZURA

GIVENCHY at NET-A-PORTER

ATTICO at MODA OPERANDI

Amid tolling bells and the stone sarcophagi of Alyscamps, Alessandro Michele managed to bring the dead back to life for Gucci cruise ’19

With the birth of a new breed of super-show, one that takes place outside of the usual capitals of Paris, London, New York and Milan, cruise collections are taking fashion on a whirlwind ride across the globe. Season after season, audiences are transported to a different locale. For cruise ’19 though, Alessandro Michele decided to take things one step further and carry his audience to a totally different realm. Yes, Gucci’s wonder boy pulled out all the ghostly theatrics and some, staging the cruise ’19 show at Alyscamps, a Roman necropolis in the southern French city of Arles. The after dark special inspired by the idea of death served as the perfect backdrop for a dazzling 114 looks, that paid tribute to the afterlife, honouring both ancient and modern. There was Victoriana mixed with retro in tiered dresses and neon lace, Renaissance elements referenced with billowing velvet capes and the most eloquent of feathered caps, all followed by a plethora of glasses to fill one’s optical dreams. A battle between light and dark ensued, as models came out either coiffed in Marie Antoinette coils or eerily camouflaged under lace veils, some sporting quite the serious headgear. Hollywood’s dead also came to life as the designer paid tribute to La La Land’s legendary Chateau Marmont, a playground for the debaucheries and adventures of the rich and famous, its iconic satirical Pan logo appearing on everything from bags to t-shirts. It was morbid, eccentric and oh-so delightfully what Alessandro does best: elaborate yet brilliantly commercial, guranteed to fly off the shelves. Models line up before taking to the catwalk at Gucci’s cruise ’19 show

THE COLLECTION

AFTER DA R K

THE NEWS

Create your very own custom-made Prada shoes

THE FUTURE OF SOLE MAKING Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing more luxurious than having something made-to-measure. And thanks to a new project, Italian fashion house Prada is making totally bespoke a new option for its customers. Yes, your dream pair of Prada shoes are now in reach as choice of type, material and colour can now be selected and personalised. Choose from 18 models, ranging from pumps and slingbacks all the way to sandals and boots, as well as eight different heel heights in a wide range of materials and shades. The made-to-order service will run for a limited period, from November 15 to 25 at The Dubai Mall flagship store. Modern modesty at Ounass

BURBERRY BESPOKE In its latest initiative, design house Burberry has opened a temporary space within its store at The Dubai Mall to celebrate the Heritage Trench Coat collection. Shoppers, both men and women, can customise their very own trench in three different styles as well as a choice of five colours and a selection of limited-edition buttons.

NEW PICKINGS Those in search of something more pared-back will delight as fashion e-tailer

Ounass

has

launched

the

Modest Style Shop â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a tightknit edit of modest everyday essentials. Themodist.com

THE LOOK

ETRO

Satin gown, MARY KATRANTZOU at MATCHES FASHION

RICHARD QUINN

A DECADE IN FASHION To celebrate 10 years of design and her label’s birthday, the queen of digital print Mary Katrantzou has teamed up with Matches Fashion for an exclusive 10-piece archive collection. Available now, the launch features reproductions of some of Mary’s key pieces over the last 10 years – including a dress from her graduate collection, the perfume bottle dress from her first ever fashion week collection, and the muchloved typewriter dress from her A/W12 collection. The pieces will target collectors, long-term fans and

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

those who have just recently discovered the label. Exclusively at Matchesfashion.com

UNWRAPPED: HOW TO WEAR FASHION’S NEW TAKE ON THE SCARF Following Queen Elizabeth II’s royal seal of approval at Richard Quinn’s A/W18 show, the humble patchwork scarf has now been declared fully fashionable. Yes, remember those equestrian prints made famous by Hermès? They’re back – bigger, bolder and reworked for the season. And it wasn’t only Richard who was knee-deep in silk. For his debut at Salvatore Ferragamo, Paul Andrew brought back to life archival silk foulard prints as flowing shirt dresses, while in Paris, Marine Serre did something similar, sending out look after look of brilliant patchwork scarf dresses and skirts. But it was London-based Faustine Steinmetz who took things one step further, bedazzling her scarf-print tops with tiny Swarovski crystals. Whether Cropped jacket, MARY KATRANTZOU at MATCHES FASHION

in regal prints or blown-out paisleys, there’s no taming these loud handkerchiefs, in all their print-clashing glory.

BALMAIN

DIOR

PACO RABANNE

ALEXANDER WANG

ALBERTA FERRETTI

GIVENCHY

TOM FORD

THE MOOD

SHINING E X A M P L E

Ever wondered what the future holds for fashion? For A/W18, designers made sure it would be quite visible to the eye. Yes, gone are the days when metallics were reserved solely for night owls and afterdark hours. Today’s modern woman, it seems, is a vision of shimmer. And leading said silver charge was Olivier Rousteing, whose Balmain army took on gilded sci-fi, dripped in high-shine paillettes, sequinned trenches and holographic PVC. Givenchy did beautiful liquid silver dresses in their quest for sparkle, while foil-like trousers and jackets were welcomed at Dior. So, if you still have any shiny pieces (the more gilded the better) hanging in your wardrobe from several seasons past, dust them off. There’s no better time than now to take them out for a night, or day, on the town.

Words: Dina Kabbani

OFF-WHITE

It’s time to push the pedal to the metal in this season’s most arresting trend

DOLCE & GABBANA

RUBBER LOVER We love new iterations of iconic styles and Dolce & Gabbana don’t disappoint with their beloved Sicily and its playful new twist. Classic with all the trappings of your favourite It bag, the latest model comes in rubber and an assortment of colours in tune with A/W18’s high-shine shades.

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WILD AT HEART LEOPARD PRINT FOR DAY OR NIGHT... Indulge your animal instinct and go really, really wild with head-to-toe spots or play it safe with a roaring accessory that’s just as tote-worthy of this urban jungle. 1. GANNI at OUNASS | 2. MCQUEEN at THE LUXURY CLOSET | 3. STUART WEITZMAN | 4. LOLA HATS at MATCHES FASHION

ON THE STREET

ANIMAL INSTINCT

Mix and match – the modern way to wear animal print

Lending a fierce edge to even the most classic of looks, the street sweeping trend made one thing loud and clear – it’s time to invest in a leopard print piece for the season.

A hint of wild with a leopard bag

Blanca Miró Scrimieri at Paris Fashion Week

Bold and colourful leopard prints during New York Fashion Week

Viviana Volpicelli at Milan Fashion Week

Leopard pants for a sartorial statement

Loulou De Saison during London Fashion Week

Eleonora Carisi in head-to-toe neon at London Fashion Week

Electric blue on the streets of Paris Fashion Week

Bright boots – a surefire way to stand out

Bright hues spotted during Milan Fashion Week

Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: GoRunway.com

Fuchsia: one of the biggest fluorescent colour trends of the season

NEON FOOTPRINT If there was one message that came with this season’s colourway, it was one that was highly noticeable. Whether head-to-toe in colour-clashing separates or subdued with a highlighter-bright accessory, being visible is the only way to go.

TALKING POINT

NEW PARISIAN GLAMOUR FOR THE ATHLEISURE AGE Photography: GoRunway.com

Words by Sophie Bew

BALENCIAGA

CHLOÃ&#x2030;

here’s a look that’s been so long off the menu now that it’s hard to know when exactly it fell out of favour. It may be best described as Parisian chic. You know the one: last night’s make-up (or none, plus a red lip), perfectly dishevelled hair, a mannish blazer, skinny jeans, a simple blouse loosely unbuttoned just-so – never revealing too much, always leaving more to the imagination. Once upon a time there’d be a Breton top nearby too. It’s the stuff of Caroline de Maigret, Jeanne Damas and Léa Seydoux. But as endlessly chic and beautiful as these women are, it’s a look that’s getting less and less repped, both on and off the catwalk. Athleisure and casualisation are chic’s greatest rivals today. With trainers now as haute as heels – high fashion iterations have price tags to match – and hoodies taking the top spot for sartorial subversion, fashion has a different face today than the once-legendary French-girl look. There’s no better encapsulation of this shift than at Parisian bastion Balenciaga: from the label’s inception in 1919 by namesake couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (“the master of us all” according to Christian Dior), to its life under fashion’s firestarter Demna Gvasalia. Balenciaga today offers bomber jackets, tech-fabric anoraks, normcore trainers, baseball caps and more – often in daring couture proportions, mind you. As the Internet continues to democratise fashion and beauty standards, and diversity, rightly takes precedence at the top of brands’ communication agendas (to the extent that, conversely, the term is often used as a commodity in itself), it’s only right that this somewhat narrow character of ‘I-woke-up-like-this’ chic feels dated. Earlier this year I heard a segment on a BBC Radio 4 show – the source of which I can’t find for the life of me now (that un-Googleable audio memory being the nemesis of any journalist). In it, a young French woman bemoaned the oppressive nature of the French-girl look, explaining that expectations of women to be both effortless, modest and alluring, were in fact rather restrictive parameters. In Paris, she said, one could not wear a short skirt, experiment with make-up or don high heels and not feel ‘too much’. What had always seemed like a liberating attitude for the first time appeared to me as controlling. So amid our ever-casualised world, where does this leave glamour today? With every other esteemed maison offering logoed t-shirts, branded socks and sweatshirts, glamour has come to feel irrelevant – the stuff of ’80s bouffants, shoulder pads or RuPaul; of, whisper it, trying too hard. And while many will agree that the newfound comfort of the sartorial sneaker is a fashion liberation akin to the shedding of the corset, we do still have parties, dates and weddings to attend – moments where, amid a love of high fashion hoodies, one does still want to dress up, sometimes. Luckily, Gallic elegance goes by a new formula now, thanks to two designers connecting glamour with today’s codes of cool. Case study one is Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Chloé’s creative director as of 2017. Having grown up on the left bank of Paris, Natacha had dreams of becoming a historian before her head was turned by Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga. She joined the company in 2002 to make coffee and organise documents

Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s “vintage in the future” at Chloé

Retro-futuristic cool at Louis Vuitton

PACO RABANNE

before quickly climbing the ranks to design director. Serving as his lieutenant for more than a decade at Balenciaga, she moved with him in 2012 to his present home at Louis Vuitton. All the while though, Natacha was a living poster girl for her aesthetic: with tousled dark hair, bare face, unkempt eyebrows and a playful mix-and-match vintage-inspired look, she was a longstanding feature of Parisian nightlife, often pictured on the arm of Purple Fashion editor-in-chief Olivier Zahm, with whom she now has a five-year-old son. It was her blend of innate style and unequivocal expertise that got her the job, taking over from Chloé’s Clare Waight-Keller. “Natacha has the savoir faire of couture; the way she cuts the garment and the precision she brings to each piece is the best in Paris,” Chloé’s chief executive, Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, told the Financial Times at the time of the announcement. “But she also brings an attitude. She has given the team the freedom to take risks and try new avenues while having the maturity to build on the maison’s heritage.” Natacha makes perfect sense as a successor to Clare’s soft ’70s bohemia, which had reached its peak by the time the designer had left for Givenchy. The new Chloé codes riff on that same woman of course, but here we see the ’70s hues in spacey silhouettes – the designer calls it “vintage in the future” – floaty dresses delivered in a muddy palette, silk blouses offset by peg-legged jodhpurs, while boots are chunky and fluid shapes are hardened by thick gold jewellery. A fluted arm is anchored by elegant, militia-like metal arm cuffs. For every feminine frill there’s something hard, something a little ugly: Chloé’s fantastical woman has been grounded with grit – she’s a new model for our times, entwining glamour with power. It’s this counterbalance Natacha says she inherited from Nicolas who, according to The New York Times, taught her to create with a democratic touch and appealed to her with “his equal love for classical paintings and the music of Mariah Carey.” “I always like to have something that is a bit wrong — nothing too bourgeois,” Natacha explained to the newspaper earlier this year. “My feeling was that the collection should not be casual: I wanted to make things in a relaxed way or to put a casualness in the attitude, but I wanted the clothing itself to be sharp.” And how! It’s a fail-safe formula for dressing up in a dressed down world. A world that’s more awake, more outspoken and more accountable. It’s clear that the only glamour that can translate today must be inclusive and cater for the countless women we may wish to be at any one time. Fellow Parisian designer and case study two, Julien Dossena of storied 1960s brand Paco Rabanne, knows this formula only too well. Having taken the helm in 2014, Julien has revived the space-age outfitters which, apart from enduring best-selling perfumes and postcards of a metal corseted Jane Fonda as Barbarella, was largely forgotten after its founder departed the company in 1999. His expert invigoration of the house’s innovative technical fabrics has rewritten the codes of party looks for the athleisure age. Cue slinky chain-mail-clad skirts teamed with a slouchy camel cashmere sweater, glittering paillettes over grungy ’90s slip dresses and teamed with whopping great slippers. Like at Chloé, glamour today must be served with a side

Party dressing for the athleisure age at Paco Rabanne

of pop and an extra helping of wrong. Interestingly, Julien shares a similar wiring with Natacha: an art history student, he switched to fashion suddenly, following an obsession with Californian teen life, surfing and ’90s movies. “Every time I find a pop culture reference, I try to dig at it and take it to the bone – I want to make it beautiful and relevant,” Julien told me in reference to his A/W17 collection last year. It’s both a noble and approachable mindset, this egalitarianism – and very French. Both Julien and Natacha regard no inspiration as too high or low brow a source – be it Mariah Carey or classical art. And this draws us to their other common denominator: Julien too was trained by Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga whose work, wrote Alexander Fury for The Independent in 2016, “was universally acclaimed for a fusion of the technologically advanced, the historically reverent and the currently relevant. It’s a tough mix to get right.” It’s hardly a surprise that Nicolas’ magic past-present-future formula has permeated our aesthetic culture so deeply. His Balenciaga era is immortalised in the halls of fashion history: the lego shoes, the nomadic scarves of the early noughties, nipped in blazers, the sculpted minimalism and early scuba suit dresses shaped the collections we still see today. Louis Vuitton meanwhile remains a gilded castle in the fashion sky, a paragon of expertise and retro-futuristic cool, all black leathers and sci-fi digitalism, sculpted silhouettes and historical veneration. His A/W18 collection for Louis Vuitton offers a portrait of the Chloé and Paco Rabanne girls’ future, a time when this new-age party girl needs an anti-bourgeois work look for her next stage. Here, spacey silhouettes are gilded with French Revolution uniform epaulettes, conservative button-down bouclé is woven with a lurid lurex, while skirt suits are wrought in rich black leathers. One can’t help but wonder if Nicolas has built an army of disciples in Natacha and Julien – each equipping a modern audience with this fluidity of codes. It’s an education of sorts, in contemporary elegance and glamour for today’s girl.

TALKING POINT

DESIGN IN DEBT Innovation, think tanks and digital trends. MOJEH discovers how the fashion industry is shaping up in the anti-plastic era

n recent years the fashion industry has been moving mountains to clean up its act. First there was the supply chain scandal, sparked by the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013, which pushed brands to disclose their supplier information, igniting a new era in transparency. Then, its fixation with fur came under fire and subsequently everyone from Gucci to Versace, Net-a-Porter and Jimmy Choo announced its rejection of the material. Designers have also increasingly used their public platform to communicate issues of cultural concern – from race to gender and migration. Feminism was, for instance, a hot topic for Dior’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who sent out models wearing t-shirts emblazoned with “female rights are human rights” for A/W18. It seemed fashion was on track for a conscious future, but the S/S19 runways relayed a different vision. The use of plastic was prolific. Invites to Emporio Armani’s airport-inspired show came in security-friendly, regulation plastic pouches before models marched out in high-shine, scrunched PVC shoes and layered plastic jewellery. At Chanel, beachball purses and branded plastic sandals were the order of the day, while a rainbow of PVC trenches glistened at Adeam, Monse and Sies Marjan. Fashion has always favoured an unlikely trend, but this one was born amid a global outcry. The clock is ticking. Experts have warned that if we carry on the way we are, 2048 will be the year that we’ll have more plastic in our seas than fish. And with this deadline looming within our lifetime, it’s not surprising that we’re experiencing an unprecedented interest in banishing plastic. It’s a global issue that’s embedded in many aspects of our lives. In 2015, the UK government announced a five pence (Dhs1) charge on all carrier bags, which led to a dramatic 85 per cent drop in their use across England, while the world’s first plastic-free supermarket aisle opened in Amsterdam in February 2018. The section in Dutch-chain, Ekoplaza, launched with around 700 products packaged in metal, glass, card or a compostable, plant-based biofilm. It’s been 11 years since Rwanda banned plastic bags, resulting in the spotless streets of Kigali, and when Kenya followed suit with one of the toughest bans on plastic bags in 2017, many other east African countries –

including Uganda, Tanzania, and South Sudan – expressed their interest in doing the same. India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi has vowed to eliminate single-use plastic by 2022 and China recently announced a veto on the 24 types of waste it previously absorbed from the West. Indeed, many industries and policy makers are shaping up fast, but fashion seldom adheres to norms or fits in with the crowd. It took decades of campaigning by pressure groups like PETA and a shift from socially-minded consumers to eventually chase fur off the catwalk, but studies show that activism does have the power to impact purchasing. Ahead of its fur-free policy, Net-a-Porter surveyed 24,000 of its customers. The results placed social and environmental concerns firmly at the heart of purchasing, with 72 per cent claiming that this affected their spending decisions, while 58 per cent said increased access to information about the ethics and sustainability of a product would sway their purchase. “There’s definitely a shift in the air,” agrees Corinna Joyce, designer at Fácil Blanco, a fashion label that works with 100 per cent natural Italian linen. “The big brands and London Fashion Week are going fur-free, which makes room for more interesting alternatives and innovative fabrics being developed,” she continues. But can this mindset spill over into fashion’s love for polymers? Andy Warhol once said: “I love Hollywood, everybody’s plastic. But I love plastic, I want to be plastic.” And for several decades this sentiment has been echoed by designers and shoppers alike. Yuri Gagarin was the first man to enter space in 1961, and with this feat for humanity came a whole host of space-inspired fashion. André Courrèges was among the first to introduce plastic and PVC into his sleek, geometric designs – a material move that was later followed by the likes of Paco Rabanne, and its dresses made from plastic discs, held together with metal rings. Plastic later found its way into the synthetic materials like nylon, Lycra and spandex – the fabrics that defined the disco and punk eras and became staples for the day-to-day items of the 1990s and noughties. Trainers, tights, leggings, sunglasses, and even ‘ethical’ materials like faux leather and micro suede all include elements of

Photography: Christian Vierig / Getty Images

Words by Laura Beaney

The luxury ‘plastic bag’ trend was everywhere at Paris Fashion Week

“

If we carry on the way we are, 2048 will be the year that we’ll have more plastic in our seas than fish.

plastic, while buttons, zippers and packaging seem almost unavoidable. Natural fibres like cotton and wool eventually biodegrade, but synthetic and microfibres are here to stay. They’re often coated for water resistance and can bind with chemical pollutants like pesticides and flame retardants that are found in wastewater. A 2015 study published by the Journal of Environmental Science and Technology pinpointed that this is not only damaging for the plankton and other small organisms that consume these microfibres, but also a problem that makes its way up the food chain, to the larger fish and shellfish that are then consumed by humans. Fantastic? Not quite. Fashion is an industry loaded with plastic debt, in fact it’s one of the biggest culprits, with a 2017 report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation revealing that fashion is responsible for pouring the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles into the ocean each year. But thankfully, for every fast-fashion throwaway and Moschino plastic ‘dry cleaning bag dress’ that sashays down the runway, there’s another designer lobbying for an anti-plastic future. Parley for the Oceans made history when it paired with Adidas to produce the first ever pair of trainers made from upcycled ocean plastic and has since become a reference point in the anti-plastic movement. Since its inception in 2012, the environmental organisation – which pledges to fight against plastic’s destruction of oceans – has worked extensively with the fashion industry, collaborating with

the likes of Net-a-Porter and Stella McCartney, and sharing its insight at fashion weeks. The 2013 Berlin Fashion Week saw Parley host a three-day series of ‘Parley Talks’. The think tank saw 24 speakers come together to exchange knowledge on the threat of plastic pollution, while collaboration sessions and the ‘Blue Carpet Party’ cultivated alliances for The Vortex Project: an initiative spearheaded by eco-material innovator Bionic Yarn, Sea Shepherd Conservation Society and Parley. The Vortex Project aims to not only clean up beaches, but also drive innovation through new technologies, and find ways to transform ocean plastic into smart consumer products. But why a fashion week and not an eco conference? It’s characteristic of today’s climate for cross-industry collaboration, but more than this, fashion has great influence over public opinion, and has the ability to spark trends. In this vein, Net-a-Porter can be thanked for the trending hashtag #PlasticNotFantastic. Social media can of course be credited with accelerating discourse between the brand and the consumer, offering unavoidable feedback, but as being ‘ethically-minded’ becomes a status symbol for big brands, real action is required too. Net-a-Porter dedicated the summer issue of its in-house publication to the plight of the ocean, as well as exchanging its plastic packaging for paper. Its retail component moved to recyclable packaging options, for both ribbons and garment protection bags, and its offices are becoming plastic-free zones, with plastic cutlery and

Photography: Timur Emek / Getty Images

Above and right: Plastic was a style statement during Fashion Month

water bottles being phased out. Stella McCartney, a brand with sustainability at its core, has supported Parley’s mission in other ways, through creative collaboration and eco innovation. The partnership saw Stella McCartney’s existing efforts elevated, with the introduction of alternative materials into her range. Two new items have already been created, both made from Parley Ocean Plastic upcycled marine debris: the Adidas by Stella McCartney Parley Ultra Boost X trainer and the Stella McCartney X Parley Falabella Go Backpack. Previously style trends would trickle down from the top, with fashion houses like Chanel setting the bar, but the anti-plastic movement is prevalent on all levels, and what’s interesting is how this shift is sparking innovation in design processes, with brands like Stella McCartney opening up minds to new possibilities when it comes to materials. On the high street too, a space once synonymous with throwaway, fast fashion, we can see brands like H&M setting precedents, investing in research that rethinks the way the fashion industry considers its materials. H&M’s Conscious Collection recently launched two new sustainable materials: recycled silver and Econyl – a 100 per cent regenerated nylon fibre made from fishnets and other nylon waste. But it’s not just the international names with big research budgets driving change. Take sustainable luxury menswear label, Benjamin Siggers, for example. The brand has taken men’s formalwear, an area typically shrouded in tradition, and proven that a label can still exude both luxury and ethical design processes. “We’ve worked hard to keep plastic out of our products and our supply chain,” says co-founder Matthew Benjamin. “When you buy a Benjamin Siggers suit, the hanger is wooden, the garment bag organic cotton and the retail bag and labels recycled cotton. Even our shirt packaging is biodegradable,” he explains. The brand has tapped into the fact that sustainability can enhance rather than take away from the customer’s experience; its products offer convenient solutions to everyday fashion irritations. “We recently trialled a new shirt fabric made from organic cotton and Tencel,” he says. “Our clientele loved it as it’s ‘wrinkle-free’ without a dose of formaldehyde – a carcinogenic ingredient typically used to treat conventional ‘non-iron’ or ‘wrinkle-free’ shirts.” Designing the downfall of plastic is not an easy or simple task. It requires a multifaceted approach that encompasses a reformat in design practices, as well as education that can lead to a shift in social attitudes. One thing that fashion is uniquely able to do is convey messages of significance, influence and establish trends. It’s about cultivating an attitude that luxury is now synonymous with ethics, social responsibility and innovation. And innovation is critical, as demonstrated by the likes of Parley and its collaborations with Berlin Fashion Week and Stella McCartney, drawing together design and science to engineer a solution. It’s not just about cutting out plastics, but completely rethinking the way that we approach our materials and their use.

“

It’s about cultivating an attitude that luxury is now synonymous with ethics, social responsibility and innovation.

PLASTIC FREE UAE These lifestyle businesses are proving we’re on the way to a plastic-free existence What: The homeware brand Where: Tribe This homegrown concept stocks brands like The Dharma Door, Fiona Walker and Armadillo & Co, creators of furniture and home décor using sustainable materials such as hemp, bamboo and rattan. Expect organic hand-dyed rugs, sleek chairs with metal legs from recycled sources and wooden accent pieces crafted from reclaimed wood. Tribe’s range is ideal for the UAE climate, such as the indoor/outdoor rugs by Armadillo & Co, made from of 100 per cent recycled PET fibres, that look and feel exactly like wool, and can be moved from poolside to dining room. What: The juicer Where: Kold Pressed Juice Kompany Kold Pressed Juice Kompany is leagues ahead with its approach and contemporary appeal. As well as offering a plethora of cleansing juices in fashion-friendly ‘collections’ and continuously including forward-thinking ingredients like MCT oil in its offering, the company is also in partnership with Sea Shepherd Conservation Society and only uses glass bottles for its juices. Say goodbye to BPA, and hello to a better environment. What: The recycling sidekick Where: Washmen As well as handling all your laundry demands, Dubai start-up, Washmen, will also pick up your plastic and paper recycling from your doorstep. The company has already made strides to position themselves as being sustainably-minded, reusing laundry hangers and offering dedicated, reusable Washmen laundry bags to its clients. What: The beach club Where: Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai Part of the long line of UAE-based establishments that have already gone plastic straw-free – including Coya, Wild and the Moon and all the entities under the Jumeirah Restaurant Group – this summer saw Nikki Beach shift to 100 per cent certified biodegradable ‘bio-pla’ straws made from polylactic acid (PLA) or cornstarch. As part of the resort’s 360 approach to sustainability, the property will also eliminate takeaway containers, reduce plastic packaging, and work with recyclable options wherever possible.

FASHION IN FOCUS

ETRO

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2 6 FOLKLORE SPIRIT A mix of ethnic-style cardigans, patchwork prints and cowboy boots under frilly fringes conjure up this free-spirited trend. Just add a floppy hat and turquoise jewellery aplenty – and you’re good to go. 1. NICK FOUQUET at MODA OPERANDI | 2. ALANUI at OUNASS | 3. ISABEL MARANT at NET-A-PORTER | 4. DIOR | 5. ETRO | 6. GABRIELA HEARST at MATCHES FASHION | 7. GUCCI

4 5

MONSE

6 FUZZY DETAILS From cosy sheepskin to fluffy accents and hug-me textures, these shearling pieces are the answer to your cold-weatherwardrobe problems.

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Compiled by Dina Kabbani

CHANEL

CHECK MATE From the classic trench in earth-tone shades to a deconstructed blazer/jacket hybrid, anything in tartan this season will check off all the right boxes. 1. MONSE | 2. GUCCI at MY THERESA | 3. BALENCIAGA at NET-A-PORTER| 4. PIERRE HARDY at THE MODIST | 5. PRADA at MATCHES FASHION | 6. STELLA MCCARTNEY at NET-A-PORTER | 7. LOEWE

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JONATHAN SIMKHAI

SENSUAL PROPOSITION It’s time to open up one’s boudoir for daytime, use as lace-trimmed slips and décolletage-diving numbers make morning dressing much more fun. 1. JONATHAN SIMKHAI at HARVEY NICHOLS–DUBAI | 2. HELMUT LANG at HARVEY NICHOLS–DUBAI | 3. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 4. VALENTINO at MY THERESA | 5. JIMMY CHOO at MATCHES FASHION | 6. DUNDAS at MODA OPERANDI | 7. MARIA LUCIA HOHAN at MATCHES FASHION

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Coat, petticoat and boots, DIOR

HIDDEN TIGER Jacquard, lace, satin and silk are met with jungle prints and abstract motifs in pieces that flow with character

Photographed by Cameron McNee Styled by Julie Brooke Williams

THIS PAGE: Dress, hat and boots, DIOR OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress, belt, hat and boots, DIOR

Jacket, shirt, petticoat, tie and hat, DIOR

Jacket, hat and earrings, DIOR

THIS PAGE: Blazer, shirt, tie and shorts, DIOR OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress, belt, necklace and earrings, DIOR

THIS PAGE: Jacket, dress, hat and earrings, DIOR OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress, hat, earrings and bracelet, DIOR Model: Bhumika Arora at The Society Management Make-up artist: Lisa-Raquel Hair stylist: Mark Edio Set designer: Catherine Pearson Fashion assistant: Kallie Biersach Local production: Jean Jarvis for Area 1202 Brand manager: Kelly Baldwin/MOJEH Production

BACK TO THE

FUTURE Paris-based Lebanese scenographer, event designer and model, Nour Mady experiments with Louis Vuitton’s future-vintage cruise ’19 collection

Photographed by Sandra Chidiac Styled by Amine Jreissati

Wrap blouse, baggy tapered oversized pants and Archlight flat thigh boots, LOUIS VUITTON

THIS PAGE: Infinivy Silver sunglasses with transparent lens and short jacket with leather details, LOUIS VUITTON OPPOSITE PAGE: Short print patchwork dress and Archlight flat thigh boots, LOUIS VUITTON

THIS PAGE: Blouse with shoulder details, shorts with side panels and Cats On Leather P.Bte Chapeau, LOUIS VUITTON OPPOSITE PAGE: Infinivy Silver sunglasses with transparent lens, short jacket with leather details, wrap blouse and baggy tapered oversized pants, LOUIS VUITTON

THIS PAGE: Short belted wrap skirt with folds and jacquard knit body with open sleeves, LOUIS VUITTON OPPOSITE PAGE: Short fine pleats top with open sleeves and baggy tapered oversized pants, LOUIS VUITTON

Infinivy Silver sunglasses with transparent lens, jacket with cover flap, short gathered skirt and Archlight flat thigh boots, LOUIS VUITTON

Model: Nour Mady Hair and make-up: Velvet Management

C RI M S ON TID E S From sudden shocks to delicate doses, red in its varying faces adds richness to your seasonal attire

Photographed by Paul Farnham Styled by Sylvester Yiu

Jumper, dress and coat, LANVIN | Tights and boots, CHANEL

Top, GIVENCHY | Skirt, PHOEBE ENGLISH | Tights, CHANEL | Boots, SAINT LAURENT

Dress, belt and beret, DIOR

THIS PAGE: Jumper and dress, CHANEL OPPOSITE PAGE: Faux-fur coat, CHALAYAN | Dress, MAX MARA | Tights, CHANEL | Boots, SAINT LAURENT

THIS PAGE: Pyjama suit, BOTTEGA VENETA OPPOSITE PAGE: Jumper, LANVIN | Suit, MISSONI

Coat, MISSONI | Jumper, EDITION | Trousers, LOUIS VUITTON | Boots, SAINT LAURENT

Jumper, EDITION | Dress, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Cape, ROLAND MOURET Model: Mitch at Select Models Make-up artist: Philippe Miletto Hair stylist: Lewis Pallett at Eighteen Management

Candy Crush From butter yellow and watermelon pink to soft lavender, sweetie shades breathe life into your winter wardrobe Photographed and styled by Ina Lekiewicz

THIS PAGE: Dress, MOLLY GODDARD at NET-A-PORTER | Earrings, MARIA BLACK | Shoes, MULBERRY OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Dress, GUCCI Earrings, MULBERRY

Dress, ROBERT WOODS | Earrings, MULBERRY

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Dress, PYO at NET-A-PORTER | Earrings, ALESSANDRA RICH

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Top, REJINA PYO at MY THERESA | Trousers and skirt, VALENTINO | Shoes, KALDA

Dress, TIBI | Earrings, ALESSANDRA RICH

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Top, PHILOSOPHY | Dress, BROGNANO

Dress, ERMANNO SCERVINO | Earrings, MARIA BLACK

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Dress, ROBERTO CAVALLI | Tights, CALZEDONIA | Shoes, MULBERRY | Earrings, ALESSANDRA RICH

Dress, ROKSANDA ILINCIC | Earrings, ALESSANDRA RICH Model: Saadi Schimmel at The Hive Hair and make-up artist: Aga Brudny Photography and styling assistants: Sandra Baczek and Karolina Jarosz Local casting and production: Kinga Wojciechowska Brand manager: Kelly Baldwin/MOJEH Production

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MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL

WALK THIS

WAY HAUTE COUTURE TAKES TO THE STREETS

Photographed by Chantelle Dosser Styled by Anna Klein

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CHRISTIAN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE

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CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL

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SONIA RYKIEL HAUTE COUTURE

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IRIS VAN HERPEN HAUTE COUTURE

MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL

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JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE

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ALEXIS MABILLE HAUTE COUTURE

GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE

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VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE

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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER HAUTE COUTURE Model: Lea Issarni at Next Models Make-up artist: Mayumi Oda at Calliste Hair stylist: Tobias Sagner at Calliste Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur Photography assistant: Olivier Colairo adipiscing elit NEQUE PORRO QUISQUAM, Styling assistant: Alejandra Munos Lorem manager: ipsum dolor sit amet, consecteturProduction Brand Kelly Baldwin/MOJEH

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FORCE OF NATURE Photographed by Kisshomaru Shimamura Styled by Keanoush Da Rosa

Dress, BALENCIAGA

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Jacket, trousers, belt and shoes, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Jumper and skirt, GIVENCHY

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Dress, shoes and earring, GUCCI

Shirt and trousers, CÃ&#x2030;LINE | Jacket and brooches, TOGA ARCHIVES | Earrings and shoes, BALENCIAGA

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Dress and shoes, VALENTINO

Top, skirt and shoes, LOUIS VUITTON

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Dress and shoes, CHLOÃ&#x2030;

Dress and shoes, SAINT LAURENT Make-up artist: Toni Malt Hair stylist: Anne-Sofie Begtrup Model: Rina Fukushima at Ipsilon Models Shot on location in Japan for MOJEH

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SALTING WOUNDS Minimalist shapes and fluid lines signify a return to the power of simplicity

Photographed by Stephanie Galea Styled by Sally-Anne Bolton

Dress, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Earring, MARIA BLACK

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Dress, 3.1 PHILIP LIM | Necklace, SAINT LAURENT | Ring, BAIN & MURRIN

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Dresses (layered), VERSACE | Earring, SAINT LAURENT | Ring, BAIN & MURRIN

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Jacket, LOUIS VUITTON | Small leather purse (worn as necklace), SAINT LAURENT | Ring, BAIN & MURRIN

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Jacket and skirt, SIMONE ROCHA | Ring, BAIN & MURRIN

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Dress, FENDI | Necklace, MAISON MARGIELA | Ring (on necklace), modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Model: Mariia Zubtsova at The Agent Hair and make-up artist: Jean Zammit

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SONIC BOOM ! THE SOUND ISSUE FEATURING The Loss of Silence | Bhutan | Electric Supercars | Dabiz Munoz | Selfie Culture

NÂ°12 2018

SUBSCRIBE TO MOJEH MEN MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com

JEWELLERY EDIT

Photogrpahy: Tina Patni. Styling Stuart Robertson. Words: Annie Darling

From left: Saxonia in rose gold with a mother-of-pearl dial, Saxonia in white gold with a diamond mother-of-pearl dial, Saxonia in white gold with a mother-ofpearl dial, A. LANGE & SÖHNE

WORTH THE INVESTMENT Understated watches have been sought-after for a while now, and no maison has perfected modest models as well as A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxonia often requires a connoisseur’s eye to be fully appreciated, but its humility is, undoubtedly, key to its long-lasting popularity. Two additional models have joined the maison’s Saxonia roster (available in white and pink gold, with or without diamonds), which combine feminine mother-of-pearl dials with manufacture calibres and manually round movements, that feature all of the quality hallmarks for which the brand is acclaimed

150 LEARN TO FLY “This is a collection that’s both beautiful and meaningful,” says Claire Scott, head of design, commenting on Garrard’s Wings Embrace collection. The line marks the anniversary of, and takes inspiration from, Wings – a collection that first launched 15 years ago. At Damas Jewellery, The Dubai Mall

Aquamarine and Diamond necklace, DHAMANI 1969

MADE-TO-MEASURE Featuring a dazzling central aquamarine stone of 85.10 carats, Dhamani 1969’s exceptional Aquamarine and Diamond necklace is inspired by the late Diana, Princess of Wales and acts as perfect inspiration for events’ season.

Wings Embrace earrings, GARRARD

Diamond Classic ring, MOUAWAD

SAVOIR FAIRE Caroline Scheufele presents

TAKE THIS RING

diamonds, tanzanites and lapis

Statement rings are a must all-year-round, and nothing

a magnificent necklace unveiled

completes an autumn or winter soiree better than

at Le Défilé L’Oréal Paris.

vivid rocks and vibrant colours. Mouawad’s Diamond

Matching earrings in 18-karat

Classics are crafted using gemstones set in 18-karat

white gold add to Chopard’s

white and yellow gold.

celebration of Parisian elegance.

lazuli inlays in La Parisienne,

Photogrpahy: Tina Patni. Styling Stuart Robertson. Words: Annie Darling

The making of La Parisienne necklace, CHOPARD

Archi Dior Diorama necklace and Bar en Corolle ring, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

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Roman Barocco rings, ROBERTO COIN Dutch supermodel Doutzen Kroes stars in Piaget’s Limelight Gala campaign

DAZZLING DETAILS

ARCHITECTURAL FORMS

Embrace the Swinging Sixties with Piaget’s Limelight Gala collection’s

When it comes to wearable art, no one masters rose gold as well

jewellery watches, complete with bezels set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

as Roberto Coin, whose extravagant shapes have been further

Each piece is ultra-thin, thanks to perfected high-precision movements

developed with the Roman Barocco collection. Think theatrical

that allow for easy wear.

Roman structures combined with classic colours.

Carolina Bucci Limited Edition Royal Oak Frosted Gold, AUDEMARS PIGUET

AMERICAN DREAM

FROSTED GOLD

New Yorker-cum-jewellery genius David Yurman launched

For the second time, Audemars Piguet has enlisted the

his namesake label in the 1980s. Dripped in colour and

expertise of Italian designer Carolina Bucci to help create

hand-set with spirited motifs, his new ceramic pinky

the special edition Royal Oak model. Limited to 300 pieces,

rings in 18-karat gold are guaranteed show-stoppers.

the timepiece features Carolina’s iconic ‘frosted gold’

At Bloomingdale’s–Dubai

technique in yellow gold.

Photogrpahy: Tina Patni. Styling Stuart Robertson. Words: Annie Darling

Rings, DAVID YURMAN

Sautoir necklace, CHOPARD

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JEWELLERY & WATCHES

SECRET KEEPERS

As we approach the heady time of high society events, dramatic secret watches proudly take centre stage as the ultimate party piece

Words by Annie Darling

ecret watches were first in vogue during the Roaring Twenties, when modernism was exploding and Jazz Age flappers were flouting cultural norms, which were quickly upended as style-savvy ladies eschewed traditional women’s roles in favour of dancing. The discreet, and newly modernised, secret watch epitomised the exciting era’s disruptive and contemporary attitude, while also allowing ladies the opportunity to shrewdly check the time during social engagements, without appearing rude. Easily one of the most beautiful segments of women’s timepieces, the origins of the secret watch remain disputed. A popular theory is that during the early 20th century, a hidden watch allowed women to avoid the then-social faux pas of publicly checking the time. By hiding the watch’s dial under a diamonddrowned cover, a secret watch can easily masquerade as a bracelet or pendant. “By concealing the dial underneath a hinged cover that could only be opened by a secret button or latch, these special watches were both bold and discreet at the same time,” reveals Michael Friedman, an established horology expert and historian at Audemars Piguet. “They were bold insofar that they were often impeccable works of jewellery unto themselves, highly stylised and set with both precious and semi-precious stones.” Audemars Piguet’s most recent secret watch, Diamond Outrage, marks the completion of its radical high jewellery trilogy, which also includes the Diamond Punk and Diamond Fury. The magnificent timepiece required 2,500 hours to create, and the result is a jaw-dropping white gold-spiked cuff, drenched with more than 50 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds

and almost 16 carats of baguettes – totalling 10,277 stones. “The greatest challenge in creating a secret watch model is to have a design whereby the object is highly impactful, simply for its aesthetics as a bracelet,” furthers Michael. Which was particularly important at the turn of the 20th century, when the popularity of svelte wristwatches was skyrocketing. Watchmakers sought to shrink movements to the slender confines of the wrist, explains Alexandra Kindermann, a spokeswoman at Christie’s. “Watchmakers in London, Paris and Geneva were competing to produce smaller and smaller watches that could be easily carried,” she says, adding that these experiments first began much earlier, during the 16th century. “In 1518, François I of France spent a fortune on two watches set in daggers, which were hidden in the top of each dagger’s handle. These could be considered the first secret watches ever produced. “Later, in 1558, Elizabeth I acceded the British throne. She is reputed to have worn a ring-watch with an ‘alarm’ – a small protrusion that would scratch her finger.” Elizabeth I’s miniature alarm clock isn’t the only hidden timepiece she’s said to have frequently worn – she is widely reported to have received a bejewelled arm watch in 1571 from Robert Dudley, the Earl of Leicester, which had a secret dial hidden under a “faire lozengie diamond without a foyle.” Prior to the 20th century, few people owned watches, which were a mark of extreme wealth and rank, and even fewer owned advanced technology as sophisticated as a secret watch. As such, it comes as little surprise that royalty were among the model’s first appreciators. Queen Victoria was

The Monete secret pendant watch in 18-karat rose gold features brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds and malachite elements, BVLGARI

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Punk era inspiration and pyramid studs create the incredible high jewellery cuff timepiece, Diamond Punk, which is set in 18-karat white gold with diamonds, AUDEMARS PIGUET

attracted to Patek Philippe’s creations and, at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851, she famously chose a powderblue timepiece decorated with diamonds that were set into a feminine floral motif. “Secret watches were designed with great skill,” comments Michael when asked about vintage models, “requiring the talent of case makers, gem-setters, dial makers, as well as exceptional watchmakers as they were fitted with some of the smallest mechanical movements produced.” Pocket watches were increasingly seen as clumsy and outdated, particularly after Louis Cartier famously created a wristwatch in 1904 for his pilot friend who had extensively complained that his pocket watch wasn’t practical to use when flying his plane. Cartier’s eponymous maison would later set the bar for secret watch design during the Art Deco period, during which the jeweller sequestered dials under clusters of precious stones, often designing them around particular themes, including the iconic panther motif. A striking feat of design, Cartier’s 2016 Koinobori model, first launched in Hong Kong, was a particularly memorable one-of-a-kind bracelet that concealed an exceptionally delicate watch dial inspired by traditional Japanese culture. The 18-karat white gold cuff is smothered in 16 oval-cut

rubies from Mozambique, weighing, in total, an impressive 16.66 carats. “Secret watches intentionally blur the lines between pre-existing categories,” educates Michael. “They are horology, jewellery, fashion and works of design, all at the same time.” Van Cleef & Arpels additionally boasts a long history of bejewelled secret watches dating back to the 1930s. The Papillon, which is part of the recently launched Le Secret high jewellery collection, hides a mother-ofpearl dial that’s only revealed when the delicate wings of its butterfly-styled case are pushed back. At its centre is a spectacular Colombian emerald, weighing 14.57 carats. Chopard’s Red Carpet secret watch, meanwhile, deploys the charms of an imposing bracelet, weaved using numerous strands of faceted tanzanite beads, weighing a total of 235 carats of gemstones. The central oval structure is set with a breathtaking black opal, weighing 72 carats, which slides sideways to reveal a dial in white gold and titanium. The Bulgari Serpenti secret watch from Elizabeth Taylor’s collection, says Alexandra, is the most important hidden timepiece that’s been sold by Christie’s to date, and can trace its ancestors to the brand’s snake-themed jewels of the

Princess Butterfly, GRAFF

Diamond Secret, GRAFF

“

The secret watch adds another layer of intimacy and engagement, in a highly imaginative and whimsical way. Michael Friedman 1940s. “The secret watch is part of the Bulgari heritage,” says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of Bulgari Watches Design Centre. “We started in 1946 with the first Serpenti secret watch. It was an expression of the brand to mix the world of watchmaking and jewellery. It is something very important for us, and we will continue to develop the secret watch with different executions.” As seen with the brand’s latest high jewellery Montete secret pendant watch. Set in 18-karat rose gold, a minimal malachite dial is hidden beneath an ancient silver coin, brilliant-cut diamonds and emeralds. “Watches are among the most personal objects in our lives,” adds Michael. “We wear them directly on our wrists, they are our companion and guide and, most importantly, watches are usually acquired and enjoyed with sincere emotion. The secret watch adds yet another layer of intimacy and engagement to this experience, in a highly imaginative and whimsical way.” Striking the right balance between beauty and practicality is what’s most difficult when designing hidden timepieces. “Complexity is indeed a major element when it comes to creating these watches. In fact, the creation is unique because of the mix of know-how that takes place,” explains Fabrizio. The Serpenti watch’s bracelet, for example, originates from

Bulgari’s high jewellery atelier in Italy, while its mechanisms are perfected in state-of-the-art facilities in Switzerland. And the challenge is even greater if you’re a relative newcomer to watchmaking like Graff which, although a pillar of the diamond jewellery business, launched its first watch collection fairly recently, in 2008. Despite the London-based jeweller’s lack of experience, Graff certainly outdid itself this year with an incredible diamond-set secret watch, created in close collaboration between its in-house designers and the company’s Geneva-based craftsmen and women. The model, appropriately named Diamond Secret, features an elegant front closure that seamlessly slides across a pavé miniature watch case to reveal a pavé diamond-set dial. For a concept so deeply entrenched in history, secret watches are now proving surprisingly modern – somehow retaining majestic heritage while simultaneously pioneering contemporary design. Most are so superbly decorated that they will forever hold a place of honour in the world of haute horology, and rightly so. Because while their practicality is advantageous, given the sheer artistry of these exquisite jewels, knowing the time seems hardly the point.

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Asymmetrical shapes implode with colour and sunkissed stones illuminate the day

Photographed by Rui Faria Styled by Woo Lee

Dazzling Glow ring and necklace in white gold with pink sapphires and diamonds and Blazing Sky brooch in white gold with rubellite, rubies, sapphires and diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY | Top, bustier and skirt, PRADA

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THIS PAGE: Graceful Ballet ring and cuff-watch in white gold with diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY | Shirt, GILBERTO CALZOLARI | Hat, FRANCESCO BALLESTRAZZI | Cape, GIVENCHY | OPPOSITE PAGE: Green Borealis earrings and necklace in white gold with emeralds and diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY | Jacket, GABRIELE COLANGELO | Skirt, CRISTIANO BURANI | Belt, MARNI

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Sun Vibrations earrings and necklace in white gold with yellow diamonds and diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY Top and skirt, MARNI

Blue Emotion earrings, cuff and ring in white gold with tanzanite, diamond, lapis lazuli, turquoise and feather marquetry, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY Scarf and coat, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

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Graceful Ballet ring, ear cuff and cuff-watch in white gold with diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection | Sun Vibrations necklace in white gold with yellow diamonds and diamonds , PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY Denim jacket, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD | Headpiece, FRANCESCO BALLESTRAZZI

Blue Emotion earrings, cuff and ring in white gold with tanzanite, diamond, lapis lazuli, turquoise and feather marquetry, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY | Dress, LANVIN

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Sun Vibrations earrings in white gold with yellow diamonds and diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY Top, CRISTIANO BURANI | Coat, GIVENCHY

Green Borealis earrings and necklace in white gold with emeralds and diamonds, Sunlight Escape collection, PIAGET HIGH JEWELLERY Top and skirt, DRIES VAN NOTEN Models: Nimue Smit at Code Management and Mila Ganame at Next Models Paris Make-up artist: Yumi Endo at Marie France Paris Hair stylist: Kazuko Kitaoka at Agence Saint Germain Manicurist: Philippe Ovak at Marie France Paris Photography assistant: Dovile Babraviciute Styling assistants: Michelle Consolli, Grazia Marelli and Claire Zaquine Videographer (live on MOJEH.com): Sophie van Hasselt Casting director: Vincent at V&Y Casting Paris Brand manager: Kelly Baldwin/MOJEH Production

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FASHION

BEAUTY

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

SEASONAL STYLE: Need help editing your wardrobe this month? Look to MOJEH’s fashion shoots for the definitive guide

FINERIES FIRST LOOK: See which fine and high jewellery pieces should be considered for your vault this month

LIFESTYLE

VIDEOS

RUNWAY READY: From Prada to Miu Miu and Dior to Chanel, join us backstage at the latest fashion weeks for a preview of the collections

THE ACCESSORY EDIT: From the latest it-bags to the newest shoe designers, see what’s on the MOJEH radar

LUXURY ESCAPE: Whether in need of a staycation or a far-flung destination, this is travel at its very best

MOJEH.COM THE LATEST IN STYLE AND LUXURY

Photography: Borna Ahadi. Words: Natascha Hawke

BEAUTY EDIT

SEEING RED A colour fraught with emotions, from passion and anger, to love and romance, red enters the world of Chanel No.5 in time for the season of gifting. Launching on November 1, the iconic transparent glass bottle is drenched in fiery red to create limited edition versions of the coveted No.5 and No.5 Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Eau fragrances. The photogenic new edition is joined by 55 exclusive Baccarat crystal bottles, numbered one to 55, for the collectors among us. The No.5 Red Edition launches on November 1

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A game-changing mascara from Chanel

Dior’s highly sensorial, lightweight blush

THE FUTURE OF MASCARA

HINT OF A TINT

Show-stopping lashes from the first stroke? With Chanel’s new generation

Taking inspiration from Dior’s most iconic lipstick, Rouge Blush will have

mascara Le Volume Révolution, it’s possible. A first-of-its kind, the

you getting heavy-handed with the blusher brush. The ultra-pigmented

3D-printed mascara brush delivers the right amount of formula for extreme

formula comes in 27 pure, audacious shades – the missing link between

volume, sans lash extensions. A game changer if there ever was one.

eyes and lips you have been searching for.

THE BEAUTY MEMO 3

AKRIS

1 2 4

1. Limited edition brow glitter, BBROWBAR at NET-A-PORTER | 2. Private shadow, TOM FORD | 3. Luminous ink liner, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN BEAUTY | 4. Mirage noir lipstick, M.A.C

We can sum up this season’s trend in three words: more is more. From 24-karat gold tones to high shine lip paints and a dusting of glitter, light up the night in this season’s most luminous metallics.

Electric Look palette, GUERLAIN

OUT OF THIS WORLD The stars were definitely aligned when Guerlain decided on injecting a cosmic touch to its collector’s editions. Featuring molten metallic lids, high shine skin and bijous for the lips – this is festive frivolity at its brightest. There are icy gold highlighters, copper-toned accents and frosted gold particles. Everything

GUERLAIN

you need and more to shimmer and shine for the events season.

MARC JACOBS BEAUTY

A NEW FACE AT MARC JACOBS BEAUTY

TIME TO GET COSY

It seems that Lila Moss is following in her mother’s supermodel

Warm and enveloping like a cocoon, winter’s new fragrances are all about embracing

footsteps, as Kate Moss’ 16-year-old daughter fronts the latest

new depths. Classic notes with a more modern undertone; woodier iterations that

beauty campaign for Marc Jacobs. Shot by David Sims, Lila joins

are just as spicy as they are powdery, all in search of that fine line between alluring

a list of iconic women from Edie Campbell to Adwoa Aboah and

and overwhelming. Think full-bodied notes from bergamot and deep rose to suede

Kaia Gerber as the face of the brand. The new spring collection

accord and dark vanilla – sensual, supple fragrances for those cold days ahead.

will be available across the globe from early February 2019.

1. Black Opium, SAINT LAURENT | 2. Musc Noble, GUERLAIN | 3. Signature L’Absolu, BOTTEGA VENETA

E L E S T I A

172 ABSTRACT BEAUTY UNFOLDS AND TRADITIONAL TONES TAKE ON NEW MEANING Photographed by Mann Beauty by Toni Malt

Lips: Rouge Allure Velvet in No5 and Rouge Coco Gloss in 812 | Eyes: Ombre Premier in 907 Cuivre LamÃ©, CHANEL BEAUTY

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THIS PAGE: Face: Ombre Premier in 905 Electrum Lamé and Ombre Premier in 907 Cuivre Lamé, CHANEL BEAUTY OPPOSITE PAGE: Eyes: Ombre Premier in 907 Cuivre Lamé, Ombre Premier in 905 Electrum Lamé and Rouge Coco Gloss in 812, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Brows: Ombre Premier in 907 Cuivre Lamé and Ombre Premier in 905 Electrum Lamé, CHANEL BEAUTY

Eyes and cheeks: Ombre Premier in 905 Electrum LamĂŠ, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Ombre Premier in 907 Cuivre Lamé and Ombre Premier in 905 Electrum Lamé | Lips: Rouge Allure Velvet in No5 and Rouge Coco Gloss in 812, CHANEL BEAUTY

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THIS PAGE: Hand: Ombre Premier in 907 Cuivre Lamé | Nails: Le Vernis in 917 Opulence, CHANEL BEAUTY OPPOSITE PAGE: Eyes: Rouge Coco Glass in 812, CHANEL BEAUTY Model: Soffia at Wilhelmina Dubai Hair stylist: Eduardo Bravo at Things By People Make-up artist’s assistant: Miriam Cavallin at Toni Malt Makeup Academy Brand Manager: Kelly Baldwin/MOJEH Production

Photographed by Amanda Pratt

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SUBSCRIBE TO MOJEH MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com

Words: Natascha Hawke

TRAVEL EDIT

FIND LOVE IN MAURITIUS Discover the natural beauty of Mauritius in total luxury at One & Only Le Saint GĂŠran. Introducing a new honeymoon package, the resort invites newlyweds to enjoy the white sand beaches and luxury-appointed suites at a discounted rate of 30 per cent off, up to nine months after the big day. Also available for couples celebrating their first or milestone wedding anniversaries, the package includes complimentary lunch or dinner, daily fruit baskets and some bubbles to keep the love alive. Book by December 21, 2019; Oneandonlyresorts.com

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MOJEH TRAVEL

THE DESTINATION From Africa to Asia, elegant escapes await to inspire rest, relaxation and a world of exciting new experiences

Above: Take a walk on the wild side by bathing almost open-air. Below: The outdoor pool at Chikwenya Camp

BACK ON THE MAP After two tumultuous decades of political unrest, Zimbabwe is welcoming the return of tourism to the country. Leading the way back into one of southern Africa’s most beautiful destinations, Wilderness Safaris introduces an exciting new safari location – the elegant new Chikwenya Camp set in the 1.7 million acre Mana Pools National Park. Offering guests the opportunity to explore Zimbabwe safely and in rustic luxury, the camp offers breathtaking views over the Zambezi River and Rift Valley escarpment, the chance to see lions, elephants, zebra and more in their natural environment, as well as enjoy Wilderness Safaris’ signature hospitality. Wilderness-safaris.com

WELLNESS RETREATS IN MARRAKECH Enter the festive season in optimum health by embarking on a newly-launched wellness programme at the Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech, under the guidance of health practioner and detox expert Jennifer Thompson, until November 30. Designed to balance and restore through healthy eating in the form of a gluten-free vegan meal plan, yoga, meditation and a personalised exercise regime. Mandarinoriental.com Detox in style at the Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech

THAILAND’S AMANPURI REOPENS Aman junkies will welcome the news that Amanpuri, the first Aman resort, has been given a face-lift on the anniversary of its thirtieth year. A firm favourite of those partial to the hotel brand’s exclusive approach to luxury, Amanpuri has been upgraded with larger spa facilities, including the addition of suspended swimming pools to six guest pavilions, a beach bar and Eco-Discovery Club for children. Aman.com Amanpuri’s pool pavilion

Tropical scenes at Alila Villas Koh Russey in Cambodia

THE ALILA ARRIVES IN CAMBODIA Increasing in popularity in recent years, Cambodia now boasts numerous luxury resorts, the most recent of which is the Alila Villas Koh Russey on a private Edited by Natascha Hawke

island in the Koh Rong archipelego, also known as the Cambodian Riviera. Flying into Sihanoukville airport, guests will be transferred to the island by private car followed by speedboat, arriving in around 20 minutes at the 50-pavilion, 30-villa boutique resort where a tropical setting and personalised service awaits. Alilahotels.com

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In Italian (1983) by Jean Michel Basquiat

CULTURE EDIT

Self-Portrait with Peacock Waistcoat, Standing (1911) by Egon Schiele

Self-Portrait (1912) by Egon Schiele

ART CLASS IN PARIS If you’re set for a winter in Paris, make a stop at the Fondation Louis Vuitton to take in an exceptionally intense exhibition of the works of Egon Schiele and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Running until January, the presentation of two very different artists, living in very different times, demonstrates the links of their fortune, impact and permanency, despite both having died aged 28. Austrian painter Egon Schiele (1890-1918) also represents the first historical artist the Fondation has dedicated a monograph to, while American Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960Words: Sarah Dufton. All images courtesy of Fondation Louis Vuitton

1988) is the first single artist to which this incredible contemporary museum has devoted such a vast exhibition space. “Through the permanency of the portrayals, the two intense bodies of work dazzlingly and irreducibly translate deeply incarnated distress, by means of a particularly striking line,” says Suzanne Pagé, artistic director, Fondation Louis Vuitton. “With Schiele, a distorted and tortured line raises worrying questions and dares to express crude sexuality by implacable introspection, and the premonition of tragedy is everywhere. With Basquiat, a line infused with youthful impetus and carried by real rage aims to impose the presence of the black figure, following the artist’s painful realisation of its absence in the world of art.” The Egon Schiele and Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibition at Fondation Louis Vuitton, Bois De Boulogne, Paris runs until January 14, 2019; Fondationlouisvuitton.fr

The awe-inspiring Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, designed by Frank Gehry

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MOJEH CULTURE

FORMULA ONE RETURNS Fast cars, music, parties, super yachts and celebrities, Yas Island becomes the only place to be on the weekend of November 22 to 25, as the Formula 1 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix rolls into town for its tenth anniversary. For petrol heads, Yas Hotel Abu Dhabi is offering rooms from Dhs5,400 per night including the Pit Lane Walk, access to the Oasis areas of Yas Marina Circuit and entry to all four post-race concerts – with this year’s headliners The Weeknd, Sam Smith, Guns N’ Roses and Post Malone. If staying over isn’t an option, book in for a race weekend Yas Hotel Abu Dhabi

brunch, that includes access to the concert on that day. Yashotelexperiences.com

Chill this November

Uncommon Dubai+ is available at Kinokuniya at The Dubai Mall

FOR HEALTH KICKS

INSIDE GUIDE

During the busiest time of the year it’s important to maintain balance throughout the

The international book project Uncommon has

numerous events, late nights and family gatherings. H Retreats is hosting a one-day ladies-

released a second Dubai edition edited by architect

only programme at Dukes Dubai on November 3. As part of the event, pyschologist and

and researcher Sharmeen Inayat. Created as

mindfulness trainer Briar Jacques will explore the links between mindfulness and intuitive

a documentation of the city through personal

eating; nutrition and life coach Victoria Tepper who will explain the connection between

narratives by a variety of contributors including

mind and gut; and body transformational therapist, Jenna Lincoln, founder of Body Inc., will

writers, creatives and artists like Lamya Gargash

create a bespoke one-hour training session. A three-course healthy lunch will be included as

and Ebtisam Abdulaziz, Uncommon Dubai+ offers

part of the package, as well as a vegan cooking class. Mindful Eating and Body Perception

insights into cultural nuances, age-old traditions and

programme, Dhs800, November 3 at Dukes Dubai, Palm Jumeirah; Hretreats.com

insider knowledge from locals, both born and adopted.

Below: Zewditou Yohannes Ensemble from Ethiopia will perform at the Louvre Abu Dhabi Right: Calligraphy by Koom, aka Mohamed Koumenji, from Tunisia

WORLD ART AND MUSIC As part of the upcoming Roads of Arabia: Archaeological Treasures of Saudi Arabia exhibition at the Louvre Abu Dhabi, the gallery will debut a large-scale musical and artistic performance. On the Roads of Arabia will run for three nights from November 8 to 10 intending to highlight the artistic heritage of the region through dance, music and poetry derived from Africa, the Middle East, Mediterranean, India, Indonesia and China. Highlights include a calligraphic performance from Koom, aka Mohamed Koumenji, from Tunisia, Al Ayyala Dance Troup from the UAE, Farida Mohamed Ali from Iraq and many more. Louvreabudhabi.ae

New York duo Lion Babe

SOLE DXB

American rap artist Nas headlines at Sole DXB

Now in its eighth year, Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s homegrown street culture music festival held at Dubai Design District (d3) ups the

Words: Natascha Hawke

ante this season with an impressive roster of internationally renowned artists including rapper Nas, New York duo Lion Babe, female MC Roxanne ShantĂŠ and saxophonist-rapperproducer Masego, to name a few. Held over three days, the festival has become an incubator for local talent and a social gathering for those with an appreciation of sneakers, street style, art and music. December 6 to 8; Soledxb.com

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Views of the Burj Khalifa from Buhayra Lounge at Palace Downtown

Eve at the Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights

ROOFTOP TERRACES Welcome in the good weather by dining and dancing the night away at one of the region’s newest outdoor eateries. In Abu Dhabi, Hakkasan opens a new terrace at its Emirates Palace location offering twinkling city views, live DJs and a new bar menu, while in Dubai a trio of alfresco options awaits: Folly by Nick & Scott, widely considered one of Dubai’s more unique gastronomic choices, has unveiled a chic roof terrace overlooking the magical Madinat; the mysterious sounding Eve Penthouse and Lounge on 34th Floor of Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights reveals an exotic interior with breathtaking views across the city; and for those that favour Downtown’s sophisticated dining scene, The Palace introduces Buhayra, overlooking the Burj Lake, with views of The Dubai Fountains, offering Arabian food and hospitality at its very best.

EFFA

NEW BOUTIQUES Barely a day goes by in the Middle East without the announcement of new store launches. New places to spend your hard-earned cash this month include a quirky new Gucci accessories boutique at Galeries Lafayette in The Dubai Mall, a brand new Aesop skincare store at Perfumery & Co. in Fashion Avenue and local abaya designer Effa celebrates the laucnh of her A/W18 Celestial Dreams collection with a new store at Town Centre Jumeirah.

GUCCI

Get organic produce delivered to your door with Ripe

THREE TO TRY Asian-inspired cuisine is trending right now. From Korean to umami flavours, try something new this November Unrivalled city views await at Namu

NAMU, V HOTEL If you love Korean food then Namu is the place. With the vibe of a

ORGANIC TO GO

swanky New York restaurant, discover the famous Korean BBQ in

At the same time as the popular outdoor Ripe Markets return to a park

a sophisticated setting. +971 4 435 5577

near you, Ripe Organic is introducing a same-day delivery service for those time-poor people who can’t get there personally. Order before 3pm and receive a delivery box of fresh, organic ingredients from one of their

Hakkasan’s new home at Atlantis

farm shops. Delivery charge is Dhs25 for orders under Dhs250, but for those over it’s free. Ripe Organic Farm Shops are located at Al Manara Mosque, Town Centre Jumeirah and Shoreline 8, Palm Jumeirah. Ripeme.com

VERSACE

HAKKASAN, ATLANTIS THE PALM One of the region’s most successful Asian restaurants, Hakkasan opened the doors to its new location at Atlantis The Palm last month. Expect the Plate, VERSACE

same world-class cuisine, in a similarly chic setting. +971 4 426 2626

GET FESTIVE Match your dinnerware to your dancewear with Versace’s maximalist print collection of porcelain in collaboration with Rosenthal. The Reflections of Holidays collection is a bold and ornamental range of plates, serving dishes and teacups and saucers designed with family in mind. Adorned with baubles, bells and Versace’s house motifs in layers, the sets are entirely festive. Just

Toko makes a chic lunch stop

TOKO, VIDA HOTEL

be sure to dress up to the nines in

The stylish Sydney-born restaurant has a new three-course business

Versace A/W18, so not to be outdone

lunch of all-you-can-eat dim sums, tempura, noodles, fried rice and

by your own dinnerware.

desserts for only Dhs98 between 12pm and 3pm. +971 4 888 3444

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MOJEH WOMEN

FURNISHING T H E F UT U R E

As Downtown Design opens in Dubai, fair director Rue Kothari discusses its importance in breaking creative barriers and bringing UAE designers into the global scene

Words by Devinder Bains

ue Kothari has to be one of the busiest women in Dubai right now. As fair director of Downtown Design – the leading design fair in the Middle East and the anchor for Dubai Design Week, both descending on Dubai Design District (d3) this month – she has been on a seemingly relentless mission to bring the concept of design down from its pedestal since taking up her role in 2015. And as well as its ongoing objective of swapping the elitism of the design industry for education and, ultimately, personal enjoyment, this year’s Downtown Design is giving a platform to the burgeoning number of talented regional designers. “This is the first time such a large collection of regional talent has been curated under one roof,” explains Rue. “A strong focus for the region is our mission as a fair, interlinked with my personal belief that it’s crucial to support our homegrown designers: to nurture their growth and help them develop their creativity, so that they become commercially successful.” Rue, who has lived in Dubai for 15 years, left a successful career as editor of one of the region’s top interiors magazines to head up Downtown Design, and soon saw the birth of Dubai Design Week, which was launched three years ago to give context to the already blossoming fair. “Design Week was launched to inform, educate and entertain our visitors on the culture, innovation and creativity of the Middle East design scene,” says Rue. “With the government investing in the creative economy, and with design as the key driver, events like Downtown Design and the wider Design Week are crucial in promoting awareness of our burgeoning design industry.” Rue is proud of how much the fair has grown since its inception six years ago. “Last year we doubled in size.

This year, we’ve grown by 30 per cent, to incorporate 175 high-end international brands, three pavilions, six largescale installations and 40 regional designers,” she enthuses. The look and feel of the fair is getting an exciting overhaul for 2018, and even design novices will find plenty to connect with as they move around the exhibits. “We’re so invested in the visitor experience that every year we hire an award-winning architect to masterplan the whole space. This year H+A has designed the venue on the theme of ‘Liveable Cities’ – with green spaces, natural light, flow and visibility. It sets our event apart on a global scale,” Rue explains. “We’ve established a new blueprint and fresh creative direction that will transcend what we’ve done to date.” The earthy updates includes a giant landscaped garden, designed by local landscape architects, Desert Ink, bespoke cafés, pop-up retail and a Design Bar created by Bishop Design, winners of the Commercial Interior Design Interior Designer of the Year award. And there are some new aspects to the fair itself – most notably Downtown Editions, a showcase dedicated to bespoke and limited-edition design, and an element Rue is personally very excited to see. “This is our platform to promote individual designers, up-and-coming studios, design collectives and craft councils from around the world, with a strong focus on the region,” she says. Presenting local and regional designers to the global scene is intrinsic to Downtown Design 2018, which will see the 40 hand-picked Middle East designers sit alongside three design weeks: Amman, Beirut and Casablanca. “Ultimately, we’d love to say we’d launched the first crop of UAE design brands,” says Rue.

Photography: Borna Ahadi

Rue leads Downtown Design, the commercial centrepiece of Dubai Design Week, both taking place this month

With so much talent and creativity on show, what is her stand-out piece? “Do not miss Preciosa’s Breath of Light installation. This won the Best of the Best Red Dot Award this year. It’s a large-scale installation that is activated by your breath, and literally needs to be experienced to be believed.” Downtown Design will see around 36 female designers showcasing at the fair this year, and Rue has two particular names to look out for: “Vera Dieckmann is a powerhouse of creativity. The chandelier she has designed will be produced by Lasvit – and the quality of the idea, the originality of the piece and the sophistication of the design proves that she is one to watch on the design scene in Dubai.” Then there are furniture designers Newsha Dastaviz and Dana Al Matrook of The Line Concept: “They are smart, driven women who have seen a gap in the market and have run with it. They’re creative, hardworking and humble – I can see them going from strength to strength – perhaps becoming one of the first established ‘made in the UAE’ design brands.” When asked about the beginnings of her own love for design, Rue declares: “I’ve always been this way.” She describes her response to design as “visceral”, and tells us that, given the chance, she would go back to school and study to be an architect. With a particular penchant for grand, beautiful buildings, Rue says her obsession with structure also extends to her style. “I love clean lines with eccentric detailing and mostly black,” she says. “It’s a total reflection of my personality, which I express in what I wear and the pieces I buy for my home.” Downtown Design runs from November 13 to 16 at d3; Downtowndesign.com

“

It is crucial to support our homegrown designers. To help develop their creativity so that they become commercially successful. Rue Kothari

Vera has been carved out as a designer destined for global success

VERA DIECKMANN Head of design and architecture, Albal Design Studio

“The only thing I’ve always wanted to do is create beautiful things, even if nobody cares.” It’s the last line Vera Dieckmann says in her interview with us, but it’s the one that sums up everything the head of design and architecture at Albal Design Studio in d3 is about. Vera’s passion for design appears infinite. She’s experienced 22 years of highs and lows in the industry, worked everywhere from New York and Switzerland to China and Italy and started

all over again, after losing her design studio in Germany in 2008 due to the economic crisis. But she’s never lost the devotion to design that she found at an early age. “My mother is an artist and I grew up between gouache and canvas,” remembers Vera. “So the decision to be a designer wasn’t ever very far away. When I was 10 years old, I saved my pocket money until I had enough to purchase the famous Wassily Chair by Marcel Breuer, and made my parents renovate my room exactly how I’d designed it.” Vera’s long-lasting love of design comes to fruition this November, when she will be exhibiting her work at Downtown Design for the first time: adding another achievement to her already impressive CV. “I am a big fan of the fair, it reminds me a lot of the early beginnings of the Biennale Interieur design fair in Kortrijk, Belgium,” says Vera. “The last two years I’ve participated as a guest and visitor but this year it will be very different to see the event from the other side: as an exhibitor. It’s such a fantastic platform for regional talents to showcase their work: this interface of the manufacturing industry and the creative talents is unique.” Vera will showcase a beautifully extravagant light installation called Flow, for which she taken the design lead on at Albal. “It’s inspired by the importance of water in the UAE,”

Photography: Borna Ahadi

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Flow light installation by Albal Design Studio in collaboration with Lasvit

she explains. “The ‘flow’ gives a new light experience – their time,” she says. “Eileen Gray was an incredible woman. influenced by the reflection of the sun on the water’s surface. She had a unique eye for proportion and shapes, her designs I created the initial design, and we executed it in cooperation are still reflecting the spirit of our time, even if some are more with Czech glassmaking and design company Lasvit. than 80 years old.” We designed a floating morph installation combining Vera, who is working on her own home accessories brand different surfaces, structures and reflections. The shapes XO Atelier, to be launched later this year, also has a keen are organic: a reminder of soft shapes mirroring the water’s eye for sartorial style. “I sometimes design clothes for myself and I always wear a ring out reflections, ripples and pebbles, while of my own collection,” she explains. being combined in a layered way.” “Dubai showed me And Vera admits she is fascinated by “I love fashion, and think it’s the smaller the UAE: its scenery and pace alike: sister of architecture. I can understand to listen to my inner “I’m inspired by the desert and the sea,” why so many good fashion designers pace and believe she says. “The surroundings and the started their career as architects.” in what I do. contrast of urban life with the desert. But for now her attention is firmly on It’s inspiring” Dubai is a very fast city. The work Downtown Design, and the installation environment requests a lot from you, so that has taken five months to complete Vera Dieckmann it showed me to listen to my inner pace from its initial conception. “It started and believe in what I do. It’s inspiring.” in May, with a hand sketch which I shared Vera counts American design duo Charles and Ray Eames with the team at Lasvit while I visited the factory for another as well as architect and furniture designer Eileen Gray as project.” says Vera. “They were keen on developing it further. further inspirations: “I like the simplicity and modernism of We worked on my sketches while Lasvit started with the their designs, the vision of their items and their braveness 3D render. It’s been a long and complex design project, and to create something so different, against the mainstream of it really is worth checking out.”

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Dana (left) and Newsha have been picked to form part of Downtown Design’s new showcase, Downtown Editions

NEWSHA DASTAVIZ AND DANA AL MATROOK

“We haven’t ever shown at the fair before,” says Newsha Dastaviz, one half of furniture design duo The Line Concept. “We have been so busy with projects and probably wouldn’t have exhibited had we not have been contacted by the fair and been given a push. But we’re very glad they pursued us, and are very excited to be part of the fair.” Newsha and her business partner Dana Al Matrook might be relative newcomers to the Dubai design scene but they’ve been big fans of the fair for years and know it’s the perfect partner to showcase their second capsule collection. “We love Downtown Design, we make time to visit every year and are always so excited to see the design landscape in Dubai develop so well,” says Dana. “We feel quite present in d3, as we designed a capsule collection of outdoor furniture called Modern Nomad for the beautiful leather brand Montroi’s boutique there, and we also produced a large

walk-through mirror installation for another client called Key Concept there last year. So this somehow feels like a natural progression.” “Downtown Design fosters an appreciation, interest, and opportunity for people to see how inspiring, refreshing and important interesting design is, regardless of how involved they are in design,” Newsha adds. “Also, it of course puts Dubai on the map globally for investing in showcasing both global and regional design. We are especially excited about the Downtown Editions showcase as a new concept within the fair this year. We are very passionate about fostering emerging talent present in the region.” And it is among the designers at Downtown Editions that the never-before-seen collection from The Line Concept will sit. The design studio, with its own production facilities in Al Quoz, is known for its bespoke, handcrafted pieces that fall

Photography: Borna Ahadi

Designers and founders, The Line Concept

somewhere between the clean lines of Scandinavian design and the largely retro feel of the mid-century modern trend. Their work with timeless materials like woods and antiqued metals add an artistic edge. “We love working with solid woods, genuine marble and stone, brass and metals,” explains Dana. “We feel these materials complement each other so beautifully, even with the most minimalist of designs.” And the two women have experimented with these materials and more for the showcase at Downtown Design. “For our capsule collection, we spent a whole day off-site in a small room at our workshop sticking sketches, colours and inspirations from everything all over the walls.” says SwedishIranian Newsha, who has lived in Dubai for 10 years and is is a mother of two. “We then narrowed down what we decided would be the themes for our collection, spent another whole day fine-tuning the materials to be used, and then produced samples of each of these materials.” Dana, a mother-of-three, who was born in Dubai but has lived in England, America and Germany, explains the next steps: “We then spent a few weeks designing and tweaking the different pieces for the collections. Once we were ready, we created mock-ups of each piece to study and fine-tune lines, details, production methods and structural integrity. We then began production of the final versions.” And once the show is complete, what’s next for the brand? “Our new capsule collection, and then we’ll see,” says Dana. “In terms of our grand plan, we would love people to think of us when they hear of Dubai, and say ‘oh, isn’t that where that brand The Line Concept is from?’”

DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS If you’re heading to Downtown Design, running from November 13 to 16 at d3, mark these three exhibits as unmissable

PRECIOSA, BREATH OF LIGHT Designed to make an audience literally catch its breath, this awardwinning lighting installation includes a vast cluster of tiny bulbs that are activated by a single breath. Multiple activations of the light create a central thunderclap, and it must be seen to be believed.

Pockets by Saccal Design House

DOWNTOWN EDITIONS Making its debut at Downtown Design this year, Downtown Editions Chairs and table designed by The Third Line

is a showcase of original limited-edition design objects, featuring the largest ever presentation of regional talent, six large-scale interactive installations and a landscaped indoor garden.

MARC ANGE, LE REFUGE Alongside the world’s most coveted furniture and lighting brands, experience the ethereal beauty of award-winning designer Marc Ange’s iconic installation, which will be featured on the waterfront at Downtown Design.

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MOJEH CULTURE

IN RETROSPECT:

SHIRIN ALIABADI The late Iranian artist’s passion for women’s empowerment and a culture’s obsession with western ideals lives on in her work

Words by Aimee Dawson

A portrait of pioneering Iranian artist Shirin Aliabadi

Miss Hybrid #3 (2006) by Shirin Aliabadi, courtesy of The Third Line

taring straight ahead, narrowing her piercing blue eyes, a woman defiantly blows a pink bubble towards the camera. She could be anyone, but the combination of her blonde hair wrapped in a loose hijab, her denim shirt and the bandage across the bridge of her nose are at once intriguing and confusing. Who is this quietly confident young woman and why is she so hard to place? Slowly the image comes into focus: the blue eyes are contact lenses, the hair is bleached, the plaster covers a nose job (a cultural sign of wealth and status) – and the woman is Iranian. This carefully created look, a blur of western characteristics and Iranian tradition, is a symbol of the hybrid lives that the young female generation in Tehran are living. The photograph is called Miss Hybrid #3 (2006) and is by Shirin Aliabadi, a pioneering artist who passed away in her native Tehran on October 1, aged 45. The work – one of Shirin’s most recognisable images – is part of a series that captures the double lives of young women who transgress the often-restrictive norms of Iranian society through their public appearance. “She was a talented artist who captured the dichotomy of life in Iran,” says Mohammed Afkhami, a UAE-based financier and collector who knew Shirin personally and has owned a number of her works (all of which, he says, make you smile). He chose Miss Hybrid #3 as the poster image for his show Rebel, Jester, Mystic, Poet: Contemporary Persians, which opened last year at the Aga Khan Museum in Toronto and later travelled to the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston. “It has become an iconic work, highlighting life in urban Tehran,” he says. Announcing her death, her Dubai gallery, The Third Line – which represented her for over a decade – said: “Shirin will always be remembered for her kind soul, the depth of her work and the mark she has left on the world.” Mohammed adds: “Shirin was very sweet, kind and endearing. She was an inspiration to young emerging artists across Iran. She will be missed, and the Iranian art community has lost a great artist long before her time.” Born in 1973 in Tehran, Shirin was the daughter of a writer and an artist. She studied art and archaeology at the University of Paris before returning home, but throughout her life she travelled regularly between the two cities, feeling at home in both the East and the West. Besides short biographies and a few interviews, very little has been published about Shirin’s life and work — undoubtedly exhibitions, books and articles on the artist will flourish posthumously.

Shirin was married to Farhad Moshiri until her death. Farhad is one of Iran’s most famous artists, known for his distinctive Pop Art-inspired works that similarly look at the differences between Iranian and western cultures. His mixed-media art works – that range from installations and sculpture to paintings and tapestries – combine everyday objects like carpets and packaging with luxury materials including jewels and gold leaf. Like many art couples – and unsurprisingly since the pair tackled similar artistic themes – Farhad and Shirin often collaborated on projects. One of the best-known is Operation Supermarket (2006), which was included in exhibitions in the US, UK and Denmark as well as at the Singapore Biennale in 2008. The series of photographs shows all kinds of packaging, from cleaning products and chocolate boxes to cereal cartons, staged as though they are part of advertising campaigns. The bright, familiar objects of consumerism are subverted by the texts written across them – in one, four bottles are lined up, each with a single word on the label: “We. Are. All. Americans.” Another image, of dishwasher detergents surrounded by sparkling glasses, reads: “Shoot First Make Friends Later.” The photographs suggest a lack of morality in American society, hiding beneath a shiny surface of easy-breezy branding. But the works also point to the inescapable commerce of the US, and the well-known brands that

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Shirin’s candid Girls in Cars series, courtesy of Bristol Culture

signify a desirable lifestyle, that seep across borders and piling into their cars for urban cruising transgressed into cultures all over the world – even in Iran. the mainstream cultural conservativism that Shirin Although she had yet to attract attention from large and her partner Farhad challenged with their Iranian international museums and institutions, Shirin had take on Pop Art,” says Julia. “There was a sense of exhibited all over the world, with solo shows in London, irreverence and fun that punctured the seriousness of a Dubai and Switzerland, as well as being included in group society that (at the time, under former President Mahmoud exhibitions such as Iran Inside Out at the Chelsea Art Ahmadinejad) invested its youth with the weight of Museum, New York in 2009, Stadt in Sicht: Works from representing the values of dominant Islamic ideology.” the Deutsche Bank Collection at the Museum Ostwall But when you ask people which of Shirin’s works really in Dortmund, Germany in 2013 and stand out for them, the answer Art from Elsewhere at the Gallery is always the same: Miss Hybrid. “I was interested in of Modern Art, Glasgow in 2014. “Shirin portrays the obsession with Her work was also included in the western appearances brilliantly, Shirin’s portrayal of 2013 exhibition, City Lives, at Bristol and the desire not only to look like, young women living Museum and Art Gallery in the but in many cases also outdo in a in a place she dubbed UK. In 2012, the museum acquired caricature-like manner, what these the series Girls in Cars 1-4 (2005). girls perceived to be their American ‘Tehrangeles’” The candid photographs were taken and European counterparts,” says Julia Carver by Shirin in what she once described Joobin Bekhrad, a writer and in an interview for Deutsche Bank’s editor who has authored numerous Art Mag as “the best time I ever had stuck in traffic.” books and articles on Iranian arts and culture. Shirin jumped out of her car in an upmarket part of Miss Hybrid is also the work that holds her auction Tehran and began photographing the beautiful women record: the fourth image in the series sold for in their cars, all dressed up for the night. “I was interested Dhs202,000 at Christie’s Dubai in 2008. in Shirin’s portrayal of an Iranian subculture of young Dr. Hamid Keshmirshekan, a senior fellow at the women living in a place she dubbed ‘Tehrangeles’,” says School of Oriental and African Studies in London Julia Carver, the modern and contemporary art curator and the author of Contemporary Iranian Art: New at the museum. “In Girls in Cars, the giggling girls Perspectives, published in 2013, says that Shirin’s

Miss Hybrid series is an exemplary example of her satirical social commentary. “These works propose a make-believe alternative beauty pageant, believing that natural beauty is unfair, elitist and effectively irrelevant, while artificial beauty sparked by an insatiable need to transform into someone else, via cosmetic intervention, can be regarded as a healthy exercise in cultural rebellion and global integration,” he says. When asked about his favourite work, Joobin returns to Miss Hybrid #3. “It’s come, in a way, to represent her entire oeuvre. Even outside an Iranian context – it’s such a visually arresting piece, that you can’t help but gaze into those fake lenses,” he says. “People outside the country can often be incredulous when you tell them about modern Iran and what’s happening there, and it’s great to have such pithy documents.” Collectors, curators and artists from the region and internationally have expressed their regret and condolences for Shirin’s death, with her fellow Iranian artist Shirin Neshat saying it was “the saddest thing that has happened to the Iranian art community in recent times.” But the legacy of this artist is cemented in history. “We’ll be talking about Shirin’s work for ages to come, for its cultural and historical significance,” says Joobin. “In the same way that Iranians today look back at images from the Qajar era and marvel at what women looked like and did then, they’ll reflect on Shirin’s and say: This is how we were.”

Operation Supermarket (2006) by Shirin Aliabadi and Farhad Moshiri at Chelsea Art Museum, courtesy of The Third Line

END NOTE Visual artist Shirin Neshat

FROM ONE FEMALE IRANIAN ARTIST TO ANOTHER: SHIRIN REMEMBERS SHIRIN “The passing of Shirin Aliabadi is a great loss to the Iranian art community. In my opinion, no one has done a better job of capturing the complexity behind the plight of young Iranian women living in Iran today. Her images were consistently powerful in the way they embodied the contradictions in Iranian women – including vanity, rebellion and an obsession with western culture — yet deeply original and authentic. Therefore, every photograph by Shirin presented a form of paradox that was at once beautiful and sexy, yet unforgettably disturbing, complicating the notion of feminism that we expect from the Iranian culture.” – Shirin Neshat

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MOJEH CULTURE

THE FRIEZE

REPORT

The highlights of Frieze London included selfie-driven neon statements, a nod to women’s suffrage and a Banksy stunt to leave art history scratching its head

Words by Aimee Dawson

ondon is perennially an art capital, but during Frieze week the city reaches a creative fever pitch. In the first week of October, as the Frieze London and Frieze Masters fairs pop up in giant white tents in Regent’s Park, all the surrounding galleries, museums and art spaces use the opportunity to open their best shows, while auction houses line up their best works for sale. And so, the most famous of art world royalty — from directors and curators of leading museums to big shot collectors and artists — descend upon London for the promise of endless parties and exceptional art. Spotted among the VIP crowds were the supermodel Claudia Schiffer and the singer-songwriter FKA Twigs, while others

preferred to keep a low profile (David Beckham was seen having an early morning browse before the fair was open). It seems even with the shadow of Brexit looming low in the UK, the art market remains resilient. “The atmosphere in London this week has been phenomenal, and the city has been packed with people from all over the world,” said Victoria Siddall, director of Frieze Fairs, adding that “this translated into substantial sales.” The London-based gallerist Thaddaeus Ropac added: “‘The energy and pace this Frieze is really indicative of London’s standing in the global market, and its extraordinary draw.”Frieze returns to Regent’s Park London, from October 2 to 6, 2019; Frieze.com

SHRIGLEY OUTSHINES THE COMPETITION There is always one booth that steals the show at an art fair. This year at Frieze London it was David Shrigley at Stephen Friedman Gallery. The booth showed a new series of neons, a two-screen digital animation, a new sound-based installation, and a number of works on paper. Shrigley’s dead-pan satirical neons shone bright among the crowds of fellow art world cynics, declaring things like, “My artwork is terrible and I am a very bad person” and another that listed the word “Distractions” over and over like lines from detention. A particular favourite was the sign that read “Dear mother sorry that it has been so long since I last wrote I have been terribly busy”, which Instagrammers used to declare their own public apologies to their mothers. A trip to the fair was not complete without an obligatory selfie – and the booth had nearly entirely sold out or been reserved by the end of the VIP day. Dear Mother (2018) by David Shrigley

Jenny Saville’s Propped (1992), the most expensive work by a living female artist sold at auction

AUCTION DRAMA: TOTAL ECLIPSE OF THE ART

Photography: David Shrigley, ‘Dear Mother’, 2018, Neon, Copyright The Artist, Courtesy of Stephen Friedman Gallery. Photo by Mark Blower; Courtesy of Sotheby’s; Courtesy of Frieze; Ibrahim El-Salahi, Meditation Tree, 2018. Photo courtesy of Vigo Gallery and the artist. Photographer Peer Lindegard

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you will have heard about the little stunt that Banksy pulled on the art world last month. Just as Frieze week was dying down at the close of Sotheby’s contemporary art auction on October 5, the infamous British street artist arranged a dramatic destructive finale. The moment after the hammer fell on his well-known print Girl with a Balloon (2006), selling for Dhs4.1 million (Dhs4.96 million with fees), the picture began to fall through the frame and went through a hidden, in-built shredder that cut almost all of the work into ribbons. As the revelations continue to unfold, the art world is busy speculating about what exactly this all means. “Whatever the ethical and market questions that this whole affair has triggered, there’s no doubting that the stunt has been a triumphant success,” says the British art historian Bendor Grosvenor. “I really can see this work becoming established as something that stands the test of time.” Meanwhile, the bizarre Banksy fiasco eclipsed the arguably more significant Banksy’s Girl with a Balloon (2006), shredded at auction

event of the night: Jenny Saville’s painting Propped (1992) fetched Dhs39 million (Dhs45 million with fees) – double its high estimate – to become the most expensive work by a living female artist sold at auction.

Social Work showcased pieces from pioneering feminist artists

GIRL POWER STILL REIGNS IN THE UK Meditation Tree (2018) by Ibrahim El-Salahi

The UK is celebrating the centenary of women’s suffrage this year, marking 100 years since women were first able to vote

A PIECE OF AFRICA SPROUTS UP IN LONDON

(it wasn’t until 1928 that all women had the same voting rights as men). So it was all the more pertinent that this year Frieze London

Many fairs try to tempt the art masses away from the Frieze tents and towards

once again decided to dedicate its special curated section to

their own alternative offerings. But none is as successful as the 1-54 Contemporary

lesser-known female artists from art history. While last year’s

African Art Fair, which takes place at London’s Somerset House. For its sixth edition,

Sex Work presentation looked at feminist artists in the 1970s and

the fair hosted 43 galleries from across Europe, the US, Africa and the Middle East

1980s, this year’s show — called Social Work — included solo exhibitions

but as well as selling works, 1-54 increasingly presents non-profit special projects.

by eight women whose work challenged the male-dominated

This year the fair included the first public sculpture by the Sudanese artist Ibrahim

art world of the 1980s and 1990s. The eight women on show

El-Salahi, which sprung up in the courtyard of the stately building complex. His

included the Harlem-born artist Faith Ringgold and the British

Meditation Tree (2018), a series of three wooden tree-like sculptures, continues his

Afro-Caribbean artist Sonia Boyce.

exploration of the distinctive characteristics of the indigenous Sudanese haraz tree.

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MOJEH INTERIORS ETHAN ALLEN

A SOFT TOUCH 2

Elegant neutrals combine with natural textures and metallic accents to create a chic and contemporary finish

Edited by Natascha Hawke

Life & Style Alexandra d’Ursel’s beautiful Jumeirah villa merges a mother’s warmth with her 23-year career as a Dubai-based interior designer

Words: Devinder Bains. Photography: Mark Field

lexandra d’Ursel’s 11-year-old daughter Josephine and her rescue dogs Nemo and Scooby are the first warm welcome at the front gates of her home. The next is a hallway housing a vintage Kawai piano and rustic shelves, piled high with creative books and metallic picture frames. Alex waits in the villa’s composed and serene living space, looking elegant in a velvet Ulla Johnson top, Moussy jeans and Alexandre Birman shoes. The room is spacious but filled with design-led artifacts, including clay parrots and ornamental bowls – in colour-popping yellows and whites and decorative patterns. It’s split into a living and dining area, each brimming with objects that project style but also comfort, which is a theme found throughout this inviting home. “People describe our house as warm and cosy,” smiles 45-year-old Alex. “They also say they don’t feel like they’re in Dubai. I like that we don’t have a typical expat house.” She’s right. The villa is neither a minimalistic space smattered with designer furniture, nor is it a mash-up of pre-loved finds and flat-pack furniture. Instead, it’s

Above: Alexandra wears a jumpsuit by Ulla Johnson at Comptoir 102 Below: Plentiful but perfectly-stacked coffee table books in her tranquil living room

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Alexandra wears top by Ulla Johnson, jeans by Moussy and shoes by Alexandre Birman, all at Comptoir 102

the fruits of 18 years of travel: visiting galleries, museums and flea markets, throwing in the raising of a family for good measure. The house is teeming with meaningful mementos, fabrics and artwork. It is a busy place, but Alex’s attention to detail (she corrects the piles of coffee table books and potted lilies every time our photographer moves them) is evident through the meticulous organisation of so many belongings. Even the edgy but ageing outdoor garden and patio is finished with delightful custom-made cushions. And despite the endless knick-knacks, this is one home that could never be described as cluttered. Eclectic and timeless, relaxed and familiar, this is the house you don’t want to leave. A perfect hybrid of function and style, it comes as no surprise that Alex has been in the design game since she moved from Belgium to Dubai 23 years ago. After studying visual arts at the Institut Saint-Luc in Brussels, she signed up for an interior design course, which was cut short when she fell pregnant with her daughter Coco. The young family then moved to the emirate to seek their fortune. “I set up my first company at 22,” she explains. “I was a partner in an interiors company with a Saudi businessman. We had a gorgeous warehouse in Al Quoz, and there really was nothing else

in that area at the time. I did mostly expat homes and then a big project with an important Emirati man came along, which led to working on the home of a UAE Sheikh.” In the mid-1990s, Alex had very little competition in her field. “No one else was doing what I was doing,” she remembers. “Now, we have a thriving design scene, with Dubai Design District and Downtown Design, and there’s also an underground scene of artists and designers. Not everything can be seen from the surface.” As the years passed, Alex dabbled in art and fashion direction, set up a linen business and also worked in set design, including a stint as an assistant set designer on the 2004 geopolitical thriller Syriana, starring George Clooney and Matt Damon. She finally launched her current interior design company White Linen 12 years ago, and now focuses on big home rebuilds and design projects. Alex finds inspiration in the many destinations she visits, starting with what surrounds her. “I’m in awe of Burj Khalifa, Alserkal and the Louvre in Abu Dhabi. But I really like stuff that’s old. I like the Trade Centre: it’s not the nicest looking building but its history reminds me of years gone by,” she says. “Then there’s the Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul, France. It is such an amazing and iconic building, with works

Clockwise from right: The desk in Alexandraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bedroom is surrounded by photographs and artwork; The cabinets in her dining area host framed works by Mohammad Ali Talpur from Pakistan and decorative table lamps from Le Deun Luminaires; Alexandraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s living area is home to an abstract of colour by Palestinian artist Jeffar Khaldi and an equally impressive white canvas by German artist Katharina Hinsberg; The outdoor space is decorated with custom-made cushions using Pierre Frey fabrics and a table and hanging lamps brought back from a trip to Bali

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Drawings of her children are Alexandra’s “favourite things in the house”

A lamp bought from an antiques dealer in Brussels 20 years ago and coconuts from Bali are displayed on contrasting, contemporary tables from West Elm

The busy collection of art and photographs in Alexandra’s bedroom include pieces by Belgian artist Pascal Courcelles (top) and Bahman Jalali from Iran

The master bedroom is a mix of vintage textiles, South African frames, French lamps and two very different benches: the one at the foot of the bed a market find, the other custom-designed by Alexandra

“

Alex wears a pullover and skirt by Mascoob at Comptoir 102, sitting in front of a black-and-white painting by Donald Baechler, which she bought in New York

Christophe Delcourt and Joseph Dirand are my current crushes. Their aesthetic goes back to basics: raw materials, raw walls, pure lines and alchemy. Alexandra d’Ursel

from Joan Miró and Georges Braque to name just two. The Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum in Rome, and anything in Florence. New York is an amazing inspiration: the Ralph Pucci showroom, the Guggenheim...” Alex gets up to point out the black-and-white flower painting by American artist Donald Baechler that hangs in her living room. “We got this in New York,” she smiles. “We were a young couple when we got it and it brings us a lot of joy.” She counts Donald and fellow Connecticut-born artist, Paul Wackers as her favourites, but says she has a soft spot for her European roots and names French artist Jean Dubuffet and Spanish painter and sculptor Antoni Tàpies as others she admires. “My mother worked for a very important art dealer in Brussels,” says Alex, who considers her mother Marianne as one of her biggest inspirations. “Growing up, my mother’s idea of fun was to take us to galleries and museums instead of going to summer camps. It forged our love of art from an early age and I am very thankful for it, but at the time we thought it was the most boring thing ever.” The amalgamation of art and family is seen everywhere in this house, from the framed pictures of the extended family that fill the living room, hallways and bedrooms to the drawings of her children Josephine and Edgar, aged nine, that Alex displays on the staircase. “These are my favourite things in the house,” she says. “The artist was sent over to Dubai to do a sitting with the children, as a gift from my parents. I remember him telling us our kids would grow into their portraits. And three years later, they have.” Alex talks us through some of the other works in her home. There’s the brilliantly eerie red canvas from Syrian artist Sabhan Adam in the dining room and the abstract painting by Palestinian Jeffar Khaldi holding court behind the custom-covered chairs in the living room, which perfectly complement the simple but equally exquisite white, textured piece by German artist Katharina Hinsberg, that Alex bought during Art Dubai. And Alex’s love of artists that express a certain harshness is also seen in her taste in designers: “Christophe

Delcourt and Joseph Dirand are my current crushes. Their aesthetic goes back to basics: raw materials, raw walls, pure lines and alchemy. I love textures, fabrics and pieces that are timeless,” she explains, adding this is a style note that extends to her wardrobe. “I love pattern and that goes for fashion too. I admire Dries Van Noten; I would use all his fabrics in my projects. I also love Isabel Marant and Ulla Johnson.” But Alex isn’t one for an impulse purchase. “I get attached to things, so I only buy things I really love,” she explains. “If I get something new, it needs to replace something else. Even with art, I don’t want to store things that I love, so I’m careful with buying. I’d like two new designer chairs to replace the ones in the living room, but everything else is pretty much done.”And we’d have to agree. Alex’s house definitely feels like a perfectly finished product.

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THE MESSAGE

THE MESSAGE In Dubai to celebrate the launch of Max Mara’s flagship store in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue, and to introduce the exclusive Middle East Edition collection, Nicola Gerber Maramotti discusses how the brand aims to empower women through fashion, art and film.

MAX MARA

Why is it important to create an exclusive collection for the region? On the occasion of an important change in a country, we like to honour the women who belong to it. Exclusivity is luxury. Halima Aden is a Max Mara ambassador. What does she embody for the brand? Max Mara has always believed in the power of women all over the world. Halima has style and grace, and represents the future of women. She’s representing this region in her own way and she’s seen very positively. She’s strong, energetic, intelligent – she is as she is, and how she wants to be. What is the message behind the A/W18 collection? This season was all about power dressing and that was something we did in the ’80s – back then, Max Mara was dressing the woman who wanted to be a CEO in a big bank in New York. Ian Griffiths wanted to send the message to women that everything is allowed today, there’s no longer conformist thinking and a woman is able to express herself as she wants. She can be sexy and feminine, and she can be a little wild: one third movie star, one third rock star, one third CEO. What is Max Mara’s signature? The coat. Perfect designer pieces, like the iconic 101801 to mention one, have become timeless icons – because there is nothing left to improve. Mothers and daughters share these pieces and find them cool. The young generation proves to us that this Max Mara coat conveys safety and security

and gives a cover of allure. Our coats reveal how we have been able to interpret the desires of women since 1951, right up to today. Why is it important that Max Mara supports women in industry through Women in Film and the Max Mara Art prize? Supporting creativity has always been a strong interest for Max Mara and we are involved in various projects with young talents in the field of art, fashion and film. We believe it is important to constantly support and encourage women to develop their talent. Why is the collaboration with Women in Film important? We have been the main sponsor of Women in Film for more than 15 years. The women who have won the Max Mara Face of the Future Award – like Maria Bello, Emily Blunt, Elisabeth Banks, Zoe Saldana, Katie Holmes, Kate Mara and Natalie Dormer, to name a few – have all had very interesting careers and have helped to spread the message of female empowerment. What is the intention of the Max Mara Art Prize? The female artists, residents in the UK, are awarded with six months residency in Italy to work on their artworks. The final work is then exhibited and purchased by the contemporary art museum Collezione Maramotti. Many of the winners have had big exposure in the art world and sold to important museums. Do you think fashion has the power to create change? Fashion has always been influenced by historical events and has been inspired by the changes in society. I wouldn’t go as far to say that it can change the world, but certainly it can change the mood. What is your wish for the women of the future? I wish that they are all free to make their own choices. What is your advice to young women? Be yourself, do what you are passionate about and achieve excellence in everything you do.

As told to Natascha Hawke

Max Mara’s retail director, Nicola Gerber Maramotti, on power dressing, core values and why Halima Aden is the face of the future

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