N°66 2019
STRONG FORM Game-changing fashion for the independent woman
TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.
AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES THE DUBAI MALL | MALL OF THE EMIRATES
AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM | INFRARED PHOTOGRAPHY
ASK (for what you need)
CHAT (with a lifestyle specialist)
CLICK (to confirm your purchase)
DONE. (enjoy!)
Discover the brand new Louis Fourteen app.
T: +971 4 425 8600 | E: lifestyle@louisfourteen.com
16 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE
Managing Editor NATASCHA HAWKE
Digital Sales Manager ZENA LOUAY
Acting Deputy Editor LUCY WILDMAN
Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE
Acting Fashion & Beauty Editor DINA KABBANI
Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA
Sub-Editor SARAH WALKER-DUFTON
Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC
Digital Editor MEERAN MEKKAOUI
Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com
Contributing Editors ANN-MARIE MCQUEEN LAURA BEANEY KATE WILLS
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com
Guest Fashion Stylists STUART ROBERTSON JULIE BROOKE WILLIAMS ANNA KLEIN
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Tel: +971 4 425 86 00 Email: louis@louisfourteen.com
Contributing Photographers CHANTELLE DOSSER MATTHEW PRIESTLEY RUDOPLH AZZI BORNA AHADI GREG ADAMSKI TINA PATNI
Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
ART Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN
Cover photographed by CHANTELLE DOSSER Model wears GIVENCHY
WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
18
58
ROLL UP, ROLL UP! For the first time, Dior brought its haute couture collection
70
to the Middle East for an exclusive show that confirmed the
region’s place on the global fashion map
THE POWER OF THE SUIT Block colours, bold prints or structured forms, stylish women everywhere know that a good suit is unmatched in its impact
78
UPCYCLE YOUR STYLE As the Middle East catches up with eco-friendly, sustainable
94
fashion concepts, MOJEH meets the women who are
championing the chicest way to save the planet
MODERN MUSE Photographer Matthew Priestley shoots the spring/summer19 Dior collection, styled by Julie Brooke Williams
TODS.COM
Tod’s Boutiques • Dubai: Mall Of The Emirates - The Dubai Mall, Fashion Avenue - Abu Dhabi: Marina Mall - The Galleria Al Maryah Island
20
128
OBJECTIVITY The strong form of Louis Vuitton’s new-season accessories
137
make for modern masterpieces
JEWELLERY EDIT Go for gold with incredible pieces from Bulgari, Tiffany & C0. and David Morris, and discover Chanel’s latest update to the classic Premiére watch – very rock ‘n’ roll
150
THE F FACTOR MOJEH sits down with the women shaping the Middle East jewellery
industry to find out how they are carving a place for women, in what was
158
once one of the most male-dominated industries of our time
NIGHT TALES Van Cleef & Arpels unveils its latest high jewellery triumph in the Treasure of Rubies collection
22
171
ECO WARRIORS The women changing the beauty game,
176
one eco-friendly step at a time
THE POWER OF THE PALETTE As Virgin Atlantic grants female cabin crew the right to work minus makeup, we question the politics of appearance and the personal and social implications that come with our cosmetics kit
184
THE DESTINATION
190
Be inspired by the latest wellness experiences, city hotels and luxury
island resorts offering the very best in rest and relaxation
CONNECTING THE DOTS Celebrated art consultant Dina Nasser-Khadivi is challenging regional stereotypes and contesting the once rigid structures of the art market
A C H I C H I D E AWAY F RO M T H E E V E RY DAY, WHERE MODERN DUBAI MEETS TRADITIONAL A R A B I A N H O S P I TA L I T Y. I T I S , S I M P LY, D U B A I ’ S M O S T I N T I M AT E B E A C H F RO N T R E S O RT. Enter a world of beauty and wellbeing at Guerlain Spa at One&Only The Palm. Open daily from 10am to 9pm
oneandonlythepalm.com +971 4 440 1040
24
EDITOR’S LETTER
Van Cleef & Arpels unveils the Tresaure of Rubies collection on page 158, shot in Bangkok by Greg Adamski
MOTHER EARTH
Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
Get creative with Dior’s spring/summer 2019 collection, shot in New York by Matthew Priestley
Photographed by Hana Levan
As we send the April issue to print, I am celebrating Nowruz, Iranian New Year, which to me symbolises rebirth and the start of something new. It’s a special time for Iranians as we give thanks for what we have, celebrate with the ones we love and look forward to the future. A time for reflection, as the birth of my daughter creeps ever closer, my thoughts have turned to how to make the world a better place for my children, and that is the inspiration behind this issue of MOJEH: sustainability and the people helping to drive it. Did you know that the fashion industry is the second most polluting on the planet? Celebrating the fashion pioneers leading change in the way we create and consume clothes, from Stella McCartney to Natalie Kingham, we look at both the fashion powerhouses and smaller independent names who are making sustainability their modus operandi. In Upcycle Your Style on page 78, we meet three women who are redefining the region’s luxury fashion industry with a focus on pre-loved pieces. And in Eco Warriors on page 171, we speak to Muse & Heroine’s Janine Knizia, and Nudestix founders, mother and daughter team Jenny and Taylor Frankel, who are collectively changing the face of the beauty industry with their vegan, all-natural make-up and skincare lines. An issue packed full of positivity, I hope it lifts your spirits and inspires you to make changes, no matter how small they might be.
26
POWER! PIECES
Show them who’s boss with statement accessories in block colours and athleisure accents that show you mean business
Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson
Bag, TOD’S
28
Shoes, DOLCE & GABBANA
Bag, CH CAROLINA HERRERA
30
Bag, LOEWE
Shoes, FENDI
32
Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
Bag, BVLGARI
34
From left: Bag, BALLY | Bag, SAINT LAURENT | Bag (yellow), MONCLER
Bag, VELEXTRA
36
Sunglasses, TOM FORD
Bag, DIOR
38
Louis Vuitton's newly-launched Onthego tote bag
STYLE EDIT THE ART OF TRAVEL As the warmer weather creeps in, the Louis Vuitton Monogram is switching to summertime as well. The iconic motif, synonymous with French luxury, gets the holiday treatment in a graphic capsule collection, offering the perfect summer companion to take on the road. Joining the maison’s popular Speedy and Neverfull, the new Onthego tote bag has just arrived in stores, giving a nod to the Sac Plat, launched by Louis Vuitton in 1968. Sporting a giant and miniaturised Monogram, the ultra-summery
Photography: Stef Mitchell. Styling: Marie-Amélie Sauvé
addition epitomises the very essence of la dolce vita of seaside holidays.
5 MINUTES WITH... MADIYAH AL SHARQI The UAE designer explains her latest collection, which takes inspiration from Jackie Kennedy’s iconic wardrobe during her 1960s trip to India
Maria de la Orden (left) and Blanca Miró
TRAILBLAZER A well-constructed jacket is an essential building block of any modern woman’s wardrobe. And that’s exactly what stylist Blanca Miró and designer Maria de la Orden set out to do when they launched La Veste – a line of made-in-Spain blazers. The duo’s mission to create a chic, everyday essential, inspired by a love of vintage, has resulted in playful jackets that are bright, breezy and distinguishable. True investment pieces, they come in a harmonious mix of colours, checked and striped patterns, as well as wonderful textures – from cotton to velvet and fake fur. Extravagant character for today’s extravagant woman. Lavestelaveste.com
LA VESTE MADIYAH AL SHARQI
Why Jackie O? I look to different eras for sources of inspiration and always find myself gravitating towards the 1960s and ’70s – from art and architecture to the prominent female figures of that time. This season, I looked to Jackie Kennedy and her historic trip to India in 1962. During my research, I was immediately drawn to the articles and photographs that immortalised that iconic trip. Some of my most favourite looks of Jackie’s were the ones she wore while she was in India. What inspired the colour palette? Subtle colour palettes have always been a signature of the brand, and coincidentally Jackie Kennedy and I shared a penchant for pastel hues, which is something especially evident in the looks chosen throughout her trip to India. Who do you see wearing the collection? Every woman with an appreciation for creating a statement look, whether that’s for day or night, through decadent luxurious fabrics and playful silhouettes. Your fondest memory of India? I’ve been lucky enough to visit India multiple times and have been amazed by its rich culture, different landscapes and warm hospitality. The most memorable visit was in 2013, when I went to New Delhi to represent the Middle East as a finalist for the International Woolmark Prize. Do you want to go back? Definitely, visiting India really is quite a dream! Madiyahalsharqi.com
Madiyah Al Sharqi image photographed by Daniel Asater. Styling: Jeff Aoun; Coralie Marabelle image photographed by Mia Dabrowski
NAMES TO KNOW
40
ECO LABELS Coralie Marabelle’s Collection Mars x Lia Rochas Paris
5 MINUTES WITH... CORALIE MARABELLE The Parisian designer making sustainability chic You design a capsule collection each month. Why? I made this decision for many reasons. First, this rhythm allows me to have total creative freedom. I can release what I want, when I want. It’s also a very good way to get closer to our customers, instead of following the crazy outdated rhythm of the traditional fashion calendar. This method of development ensures the collection is always moving, with new pieces coming in. It’s like a never-ending story that goes on and evolves. How would you describe your line? I want to create a ready-to-wear line with a couture touch, but for every day. Creative garments, but easy to wear. High quality, consciously made and not overpriced. Why are you so eco-conscious when it comes to fashion? For me, it is fundamental to have a sustainable approach: respecting both the planet and the people working on our garments. Most people do not know how much work there is behind
The Timeless collection by Rawan Maki
one piece. A whole team is involved in the development of each garment, and everything we make is the result of a long process: we design models, build patterns and canvas, select fabrics, cut and manufacture, and prepare orders with care.
GOING GREEN
Eco-consciousness for me means to always choose the
With a brand ethos built on the belief that sustainably is the only way
better option through the whole process – from the choice
to make modern day clothes, Rawan Maki is paving the way for zero-
of material to the choice of manufacturers. Tell us about
waste fashion in the region. “I like to create one-of-a-kind pieces
your upcycle and recycle programme. Last November,
that will last a lifetim; that’ll inspire as well as create an emotional
we turned the windows of our shop into big laundry baskets
connection with the wearer,” explains the Bahrain-born designer. Her
to collect old clothes from people, and give them a second
clothes are 100 per cent manufactured using a variety of eco-friendly
life. With some of these old garments I created new and very
materials – ranging from organic cottons and recycled polyester to
limited edition upcycled pieces and we also gave some to
fabric off-cuts and crushed aluminum bottle tops. “Consumers must
charity associations to make sure they would live on, and
not think of fashion as disposable,” she says. “Investing in high quality,
wouldn’t be thrown away. Coraliemarabelle.com
long-term, loved garments is the best approach.” Rawanmaki.com
42
THE ECO WARRIORS
Clockwise from below: Italian Tiziano Guardini has been quite vocal about eco-friendly design, working alongside companies that offer the best sustainable quality; Tome went down the eco route for spring, using natural dyes created from temple flowers found in India; Richard Malone made the case for Econyl with his duchesse satin numbers; Bav Tailor used recycled fish skin from post-waste materials
TIZIANO GUARDINI
TOME
BAV TAILOR
RICHARD MALONE
ALL FOR GREEN
How fashion and sustainability have become the industry’s most compelling power couple
Photography: GoRunway.com
Words by Dina Kabbani
J.W. ANDERSON
When it comes to luxury fashion, one can’t deny that sustainability is not at the core of how the industry does business. The four-shows-a-year fashion calendar would be the first reference point to attest to such a statement, as brands sweat blood and tears rushing to produce collection after collection in order to keep up, sometimes even barely, with the gruelling schedule before them. In fact, the clothing business is the second largest polluter in the world, second only to oil, something that most consumers had little or even no knowledge of – until recently. According to Lyst’s Year in Fashion report, there was a 47 per cent increase in sustainable keyword searches throughout 2018. Fashion might still have a long road ahead, but last year things felt like they were changing, and it wasn’t just on the consumer front. The industry itself finally started shifting, with more and more designers actively seeking compelling new narratives that involved environmental principles. Those either standing at the sales till ready to pay, or their counterparts, whose fingers have become so accustomed to clicking the ‘proceed to purchase’ button, might just have an alternative option, that won’t destroy our planet. Case in point, the S/S19 collections. From Paris to Milan, words like recycled and upcycled popped up in countless show notes – a shift so palpable some would herald the season a new age for eco fashion. Leading that movement was Stella McCartney, who hailed S/S19 as her “most sustainable collection to date”. Although the designer might not be new to an eco-friendly approach – she did start the movement back in 2001 with her stance on leather and fur, after all – Stella made sure she gave us more than one reason to covet her clothes. For spring, she gave us statement moments in the form of organic denim, knitwear pieces made from sustainable Egyptian organic cotton and some stand-out creations made from Econyl –
44
“
A new wave of emerging brands is also jumping on the upcycling wagon, rethinking the materials they use.
BURBERRY
BURBERRY
a recycled nylon fabric – which included a floral playsuit with a plunging neckline that was the show’s shining star. Another designer to use Econyl this season was Richard Malone. A spokesman for sustainability, he took the fabric, which is regenerated from synthetic waste, and turned it into high-end, wearable fashion, which he juxtaposed with a duchesse satin fabric from Italian manufacturer Taroni – a company known for its acid-free colours and little use of water. His figure-hugging pieces highlighted a fact he has been preaching over several seasons – that sustainable can be fashionable, without sacrificing design. It was a similar story in Milan from Tiziano Guardini, who besides also using Econyl in his breezy anoraks and parkas, sent out a collection of brightly-coloured polo shirts made from a fibre created from castor oil. A passionate supporter of green fashion, Tiziano is well known for his eco-friendly approach, continually using collection buttons from Lampa, a company that promotes the use of upcycled materials. The fun and energetic S/S19 collection confirms sustainability is anything but boring at Tiziano. A host of established houses are also adopting a more conscious approach, with Burberry leading the way in terms of economic, environmental and social criteria, having been named the leading luxury brand in the 2018 Dow Jones Sustainability Index. Although it might not incorporate a sustainable approach when it comes to design, the heritage label has employed several ecofriendly initiatives – its boldest being a pledge to stop destroying unsold clothes, which they previously did. Others, like J.W. Anderson, have committed to decreasing the number of collections it shows per year, while designers like Gabriela Hearst and Tome empower underprivileged women through their employment to produce materials for their collections. Gabriela has done this by working with a women’s cooperative in her native Uruguay, while Tome aided refugee women based out of Texas. A new wave of emerging brands is also jumping on the upcycling wagon, rethinking the materials they use along the way. In London, Bav Tailor used 100 per cent recycled fish skin from post-waste materials in its offering, while across the pond in New York, fashion stylist Masayo Kishi’s label Edeltrud Hofmann produced its popular blouses from deadstock silk, boasting wonderful kaleidoscopic prints. Looking at the graph for 2019 – with the growing number of labels taking a sustainable approach, and the consumer demand and appetite for it – there is definitely hope that fashion is, however slowly, moving in the right direction.
GABRIELA HEARST
GABRIELA HEARST
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Clockwise from top left: In ready-to-wear, Gabriela Hearst has solidified itself as a go-to label for sustainable principles. An advocate for climate change, she often uses deadstock fabrics to produce her luxury pieces; Queen of sustainability, Stella McCartney has been on a mission to reduce the industry’s eco footprint since launching her namesake label. The British designer turns to organic cotton, recycled polyester and regenerated cashmere as the building blocks for all of her collections STELLA MCCARTNEY
LABEL TO KNOW
46
Marie Hosatte with children of the Grand Bassam Orphanage for Girls
By M.A.RY is a label completely dedicated to Africa, available at by-mary.co
AFRICA IS NOW French designer Marie Hosatte, founder of Dubai-based brand By M.A.R.Y, is giving back to her African roots
There’s been a high demand for change in the fashion industry, now more than ever, with the percentage of conscious clothing seekers exponentially growing. Whether it’s from a sustainable standpoint or charitable approach, the growing interest is there. Born and raised in Africa, Marie Hosatte, realised an opportunity in creating a fashion label that went beyond a distinctive aesthetic and brand image. Instead, she connected consumers with a lifestyle that gives back to a community. “I launched By M.A.R.Y because I want people to focus more on this continent, and it is just close by,” says Marie. “We don’t speak enough about it. I was born and raised in Africa, partly in West Africa – in Ivory Coast, Senegal and Ghana. It’s super important for me to give back to the community that raised me.” Inspired by the continent that shaped her youth, Marie proudly established By M.A.R.Y, and officially made her debut into the
Handmade clutches from By M.A.R.Y’s S/S19 collection
is unique, bespoke and a fusion of cultures – drawing from
women from all over the globe, each with her own story to share.”
African influences, Marie’s French heritage and a production
Crafted from a strong belief that African fashion can cater to
line in Holland – and is committed to charity, an intrinsic part
all female tastes, the debut collection consists of silhouettes
of its brand ethos. “The first and most important thing is to give
made with carefully-selected fabrics from the continent, while
back, and I’ve chosen this orphanage in the Ivory Coast for
it looks to French fashion house Isabel Marant for inspiration.
girls [Grand Bassam Orphanage for Girls],” explains 41-year-
“My idea is to be a bit edgy, like Isabel Marant’s signature styles,
old Marie. “The orphanage is dedicated only to girls [between
but mixed with African influences,” Marie explains of the collection.
the ages of six and 14], and I can sponsor their education when
“It has very Parisian finishings, but obviously with African prints.”
they leave the orphanage. That is my main goal.” Staying true
Completely dedicated to Africa, the pieces have been made
to the brand’s vision of empowerment and commitment,
with an African wax fabric manufactured by Vlisco in Holland. “Almost
Marie has pledged Dhs50 from every item sold from the collection
all the clothes in our collection contains the African wax fabric,”
will be donated to the orphanage.
says Marie. “The quality is very good and the clothes are
With a slew of cultural influences, it’s no wonder Marie chose
truly limited edition and bespoke.”
the UAE as By M.A.R.Y’s base. “I’ve got my own workshop
With a set goal and a new e-commerce platform in place,
here [in Dubai] and I have accessories coming from Africa,”
Marie is already looking ahead and into the next season.
she says. Each accessory in the collection is handcrafted in
“I’m working on a new winter collection, and it will include
West Africa. “Similar to Africa, Dubai is so incredibly diverse, with
more velvet fabrics and the African wax,” she concludes.
Words: Meeran Mekkaoui
market earlier this year. The fashion and purpose-driven label
She’s always been one of the pioneering eco warriors of the fashion world – her commitment to design manifesting in the creation of luxurious products that are as desirable as they are sustainable. Now the queen of conscience, Stella McCartney, is bringing her coveted eco touch to a new line of sustainable eyewear. Made from responsibly-sourced materials, bio-acetate to be exact, the collection is natural, renewable and biodegradable. A new feat for accessories, and sure to be embraced by an era that is all about heralding waste-not fashion. At The Dubai Mall
5 MINUTES WITH... MARÍA MORCILLO How the Spanish designer’s sustainable shoes from Formentera have become the must-have soles for summer What is Estrivancus? We are a label that creates unique and exclusive espardeñas (espadrilles), which are all traditionally handcrafted in our workshop in Ibiza using natural fibres and plant colours.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
How are your espadrilles made? We start off by cutting and scraping the leaves of the Pita plant by hand, extracting its fibres, which are then washed and dried before they are woven into threads. This process takes a day of work, and requires time and patience, just to make a single pair. Where do you look for inspiration? I am inspired by the colours of the traditional costumes of my culture, by nature and by the work done by our forebearers. Who or what is on your moodboard? Again it all lies in the costumes of my culture, and the colours of nature in the Balearic islands, that change with the seasons. Which materials do you use? We use all-natural fibres which, after the process of extraction and cleaning, is
completed
and
tinted
with
natural
pigments. What does the Spanish island mean to you? I am an Ibicencan and I love the Islas Pitiusas (or Pine Islands, a collective name given to Ibiza and Formentera). Our workshop is located in Santa Eulalia, Ibiza. These sandals belong to the popular culture of Ibiza and Formentera. When I was a little girl, I remember that all the older ESTRIVANCUS
women wore them. They were dressed in traditional costumes, with skirts to their ankles, and you could see this beautiful footwear peeking from beneath. If we buy one pair from your S/S19 collection, which should it be? The plain traditional sandal, Catalina, in natural colours. At Estrivancus.com
The intricate creation of Estrivancus espadrilles
THE ACCESSORIES
SHADES OF SUSTAINABILITY
THE NEW GUARD
48
Riccardo Tisci’s A/W19 pre-collection for Burberry
BOTTEGA VENETA S/S19 CAMPAIGN
NEW BLOOD
CELINE S/S19
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: GoRunway.com
With new designers taking the helm of storied fashion houses, collections are more about revamping than making over As incoming creative directors showcase their debut collections, there is always a frenzied buzz about what changes they will bring to the houses they join. Will they keep the core ethos of those esteemed labels, or will they, like Hedi Slimane at Celine, depart completely from the DNA their predecessors worked so tirelessly to cement? Hedi’s Celine (minus the accent) did not sit well with the Philophiles, who felt they had no place among the super-short, sparkly rock‘n’roll looks he sent down the S/S19 runway, something that prompted a social media campaign to bring #OldCeline back. One designer sticking to style codes was Bottega Veneta’s new creative director Daniel Lee. Lensed by photographer Tyrone Lebon, his S/S19 (and first) campaign for the brand oozed understated elegance, which was expected from the man who worked as the director of ready-to-wear design under Phoebe Philo herself: he was bound to pick up on her knack of nailing modern-day dressing without trying too hard. So, for his first run at Bottega Veneta, the spring campaign imagery was a case in point: effortlessly stylish. There were timeless silhouettes and modestly luxurious accessories, pieces that will remind fans of a Philo-era Céline, reimagined, Bottega Veneta style. Another label launching new leadership was Burberry which, since its announcement that Riccardo Tisci would be taking the reins from Christopher Bailey, had fashion darlings salivating in curious anticipation: what would Riccardo bring to the British heritage house? A shiny new logo designed in collaboration with Peter Saville for starters, and the collection that followed was a democratic one – one that didn’t push too hard; one that held on to the house’s old-world luxury, but added a 21st century spin. At Carolina Herrera, Wes Gordon
CAROLINA HERRERA S/S19
proved that his 18-month trailing of the house’s iconic founder before his own catwalk debut had paid off. His casualisation of the brand’s esteemed codes made for an impressive showcase, filled with Herrera classics, updated with the young designer’s exuberance. It was a fresh take on a storied house, something the new S/S19 creative directors had in common – a reboot rather than a reinvention, a modern vision against the backdrop of a rich fashion house.
THE COLLAB
50
4 MONCLER SIMONE ROCHA
BACK TO N AT U R E
As Simone Rocha joins the Moncler Genius initiative for its latest chapter, her garden-inspired collection sees the rebelliously romantic designer combine femininity with practicality
4 MONCLER SIMONE ROCHA
She’s known for her strong feminine approach to dressing, inspired by women who are equally as strong – females who are leaders, not wallflowers. And it is through her romantically defiant collections that Simone Rocha has managed to carve a place for herself as one of the most exciting and fascinating-towatch designers of her generation. This season, besides her compellingly wearable S/S19 collection, the Irish designer joins forces with Moncler for the latest chapter of its Moncler Genius initiative – a project that calls on different designers to create their own diffusion lines for the Italian brand. “Moncler approached me. Mr Ruffini (its founder) has such an inspirational vision, it was a pleasure to be invited to work with experts in their field,” explains Simone on how the collaboration came to life. One of five designers chosen for the 2019 project, with a further five to come, Simone was asked to create a clothing line featuring a reinterpretation of Moncler’s iconic down jacket. With freedom to experiment and no design boundaries, she managed “to explore the classic down fabrication in new ways, with the Simone Rocha aesthetic,” her modern femininity lending a delicate, playful twist to Moncler’s conventional silhouettes. It was in the whimsy world of horticulture that the designer found inspiration. “I wanted the S/S19 collection to follow on from the A/W18 one, which was originally inspired by the concept of mountains,” she explains. “And that’s where my inspiration came from – the Victorian mountain climbers of the 19th century. I wanted to explore another landscape and terrain, while still entwining the Simone Rocha femininity with the utilitarian practicality of Moncler. The idea of gardening echoed wonderfully the contrast of function, balanced with romance.” Her quest bridge the gap between both brands’ aesthetics saw her take the classic down fabric and delicately twist it into soft, sculptural shapes, which she covered with taffeta, PVC and tulle. A 3D treatment of Moncler’s iconic jackets merged decoration with functionality, reimagined with wonderful embellishments. She continued her gardening theme with punctuating accessories – her floppy brimmed hats, foulards and flower-shaped goggles bound to inspire any woman to pick up a fork and tend to her garden this spring. Exclusively available at Moncler.com
52
BON VOYAGE
BA&SH X CLAUDIA SCHIFFER
this summer, don’t miss Matches Fashion’s travelling pop-up aboard a yacht. Featuring a holiday edit of the e-tailer’s luxury collections, shop directly from the boat as it sails past between May 31 to June 6, stopping at Pellicano hotels along the way.
RETURN OF AN ICON Everyone’s favourite ’90s supermodel is bringing her timeless style to life via contemporary French label Ba&sh. The model played muse for a collection of classic and effortless Pellicano Hotels’ Marie-Louise Sció
pieces, reinvented for today. At the City Walk boutique
GANNI’S FLORAL GARDEN A score of it-girls have turned it into a brand worthy of cult status, and these days anything Copenhagen-based label Ganni touches turns to gold. Enter its latest collaborative capsule collection for My Theresa. Appropriately named On the Edge of Flower Fields, it features 12 pieces inspired by spring: think floral wrap dresses, puff sleeves and tiered peplum hems. Accessories are also included in the collaboration, with a floral-print bucket hat and Ganni’s best-selling cowboy boots, in a new all-white shade. Exclusively at Mytheresa.com
GANNI X MYTHERESA
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: Roberta Krasnig
THE COLLABORATIONS
If you’re staying at a Pellicano hotel
COSMIC GIRL Peter Saville and Paco Rabanne’s clever capsule collection returns
The Mysticism t-shirt
in its third volume
He has worked with the likes of Raf Simons, Kanye West and Lacoste, carving his name as one of today’s most recognisable graphic designers – his collaborations always hot news. Peter Saville’s latest partnership sees him teaming up with Paco Rabanne’s artistic director Julien Dossena for a third collaborative capsule. Born from complementary ideas of self-discovery and escape, two new statements are proclaimed across some of the most desirable S/S19 pieces. The words ‘Lose Yourself’ are spelled out on a classic unisex t-shirt against a cloudy purple, tie-dye backdrop, while ‘Mysticism’ sits below a graphic picture of an eclipse – a cosmic expression representing universal alignment. A celebration of graphic union, the two designs bring a sense of dynamic street energy into the label’s ready-to-wear collection. “They capture the essence of an indeterminate but positive thing,” says Julien of the message behind the t-shirts’ strong graphic impact. The Lose Yourself t-shirt
Exclusively at Pacorabanne.com
TROPICAL SURREALISM We’ve all fallen for the distinctive semi-circular caged Ark bags, and there’s even more to covet from Cult Gaia. Following its expansion into ready-to-wear, footwear and men’s, the LA-based label is moving into swimwear, teaming up with luxury Brazilian brand Adriana Degreas for a 21-piece collaborative collection. Inspired by tropical surrealism, the new line features printed bikinis and one-piece swimsuits, as well as loose silk cover-ups and kimonos. At Cultgaia.com CULT GAIA X ADRIANA DEGREAS
Bags, MARZOOK X SOFIA RICHIE
SUMMER GLOW How to carry your essentials this season? Inside the shocking neon minaudières Sofia Richie has created with Marzook, of course. “Sofia is 2019’s it-girl. She has an edgy look with an outgoing personality that fits our brand aesthetic,” explains Shouq Al-Marzook, one half of the Kuwaiti accessories label she co-founded with her brother Fahad. Using Marzook’s most popular iteration, the Orb, the new bag collection features the brightest lucid shades, in the label’s trademark spherical shapes, loved by fans worldwide. At Marzook.co
54 THE NOTEWORTHY
A NEW ADDRESS The future of luxury travel comes to Dubai as Rimowa opens its first luxury store at The Dubai Mall. Located at Fashion Avenue, the 142-square-metre store showcases the label’s entire high-end luggage collection, in addition to an exclusive set of Dubai City Stickers designed by artist Antti Kalevi, in celebration of the new opening.
The Ararauna dress by Salvatore Ferragamo
ECO FASHION On April 12, Museo Salvatore Ferragamo is paying tribute to its founder, shining the spotlight on his revolutionary use of natural and recycled materials, in a new exhibition entitled Sustainable Thinking, which will also highlight the company’s more recent experimentation with environmentally-friendly materials. Additional the exhibition, which will run until March 8, 2020. Ferragamo.com/museo
Animal lover Elisabette Franchi
The Dubai City Sticker set
ANIMAL FRIENDLY An avid supporter of animal rights, Italian designer Elisabetta Franchi is “giving voice to those who don’t have one” in a brand new project that supports all of her initiatives for animal protection, the Elisabetta Franchi Foundation. Past activities with the Fur Free Retailer Programme as well as the Island Dog Village EF – a safe oasis for north China dogs saved from the Yulin Festival – will continue as part of the new programme. Fresh initiatives for 2019 include the construction of an animal shelter in Forlì that will offer stray and mistreated dogs a rehoming centre. The non-profit organisation will also continue expansion of its work in Asia fighting the dog meat trade, and in the south of Italy helping flailing animal shelters and kennels, in addition to supporting the many volunteers helping them. Besides the foundation, Elisabetta has also brought her love of animals into her own company dynamic, opening the doors to the pets of EF employees, who can bring their four-legged friends with them to work.
Photography: Natelee Cocks
seminars and workshops will take part at the Florence-based museum alongside
PETAR PETROV
TIBI
TOD’S
ATTICO
THE MOOD
TORY BURCH ROLAND MOURET
PASTEL POSSE
Photography: GoRunway.com
How this season’s sherbet-hued suits are putting the punch back into pastels
Dusty rose, pistachio green, milky lavender, sun-bleached lime – Marc Jacobs turned them into power suits, and the rest of the designers, well, followed suit. Tory Burch offered short-sleeved relaxed versions teamed with canvas sneakers, Amy Smilovic gave us gender-neutral twopieces in rainbow shades at Tibi, that worked well on both the female and male models that took to the S/S19 runway, and at Attico, it was big shoulders on the dreamiest cornflower blue suit. Delicacy is super strong for spring, so whether you decide to wear full-on monochrome pastel or pair it with another sherbet shade, the only way to achieve saccharine success is with a soft-hued, dusty power suit.
56
MIU MIU
Words: Lucy Wildman. Photography: Peter White/Getty Images
Miuccia Prada reworks DIY glamour for Miu Miu S/S19 The Miu Miu girl is never one to blend in. She is as peculiar as she is beautiful; pretty, but offbeat. And as Miuccia Prada told her S/S19 story, a collection of girly greatness was purveyed, along with the visible scars of a teenage tantrum – deconstructed elegance, in all of its contemporary splendor. Miuccia’s love of roughing up a pretty dress, to make it look less couture and more rock ‘n’ roll, is one of her signatures. Back in the day, when most of the models on this season’s catwalk were mere Swarovski twinkles in the eye of their genetically-blessed parents, Miuccia’s designs boasted a fresh, funny edge that set her apart as an innovator, one who played with the idea of fashion as a way of rebelling against the norm. “When I’m in front of a beautiful dress, there’s something about it I can’t stand,” she revealed at her Paris show. And imperfect beauty is where it’s at for Miu Miu this spring, with a collection that has an air of the ransacked vintage wardrobe of a beauty queen. With models sporting haphazard mullets with wonky fringes, kneehigh hosiery and Miu Miu’s classic crystal-embellished platforms and flats, thoughts meander to a world that combines the prom night polish of Valley of the Dolls, with Stranger Things-style horror – in what could have been Miuccia’s very own version of the latter’s parallel universe, The Upside Down. It’s all about “deconstructing beauty,” she explained. “It’s talking about what’s interesting now — tailoring, glamour, elegance – reworking it, and that’s what I did.” Dresses in crumpled silk, resplendent with huge rosettes, bows and brooches, had slashed sides and backs, showing off strappy tulle undergarments. Tattered denims finished with exquisite jet beading followed vibrant snakeskin leather pencil skirts and oversized boyfriend blazers, topped off with a finale of 1930s-inspired sequinned midis, paired with schoolgirl white socks and sandals to downplay their glamour. Taking her signature ugly/pretty viewpoint in a different direction, upcycling trademark house designs with a rare exploration of the messier side of imperfection, combined with a catwalk casting of largely non-classic beauties, Miuccia’s message was clear. “I’m always against the cliché of beauty, because that’s what ruins women,” she revealed backstage. “Everyone talks about the future and revolution, but truthfully, we are going backwards instead of forwards. And I wanted to experiment with these clothes. This time I wanted to do a room with the beautiful and the destroyed, and see what happens.”
THE COLLECTION
CUT & PASTE
ROLL UP, ROLL UP!
JOIN THE DIOR DREAM PARADE For the first time, Dior brought its haute couture collection to the Middle East for an exclusive show that confirmed the region’s place on the global fashion map
Words: Natascha Hawke Photography: Sophie Carre
THE SHOW
58
DUBAI EXCLUSIVE LOOKS
Maria Grazia Chiuri puts the finishing touches to one of the Dubai exclusive haute couture looks
I
f we were ever in doubt that the Middle East is considered an important arena for luxury fashion, that doubt was quashed last month when Dior reprised its spring haute couture show in Dubai, complete with 15 exclusive new designs from creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri specifically tailored to the region’s taste. Presented on March 18, the first sign that the Dior Circus (the theme of the collection) had arrived in town was the large striped big top tent that popped up in Safa Park, creating the same frenzied excitement in local fashion-crazed adults as children thirsty for candyfloss – only we were chomping at the bit for Parisian fashion of the couture kind. When the night arrived, the who’s who of the region rolled up to the big top in their droves, decked out head-to-toe in Dior, from collections both past and present, ensuring that the glam factor was full-on Dubai dazzling. Egyptian actresses Yousra and Mona Zaki and Lebanese singer Cyrine Abdelnour all wore past season Dior, while Turkish-German actress Meryem Uzerli and style influencers Karen Wazen, Negin Mirsalehi and Lana El Sahely represented in current spring/summer 2019 ready-to-wear. The show had the same up-tempo energy as the Paris presentation held in January at the Musée Rodin, as international models flooded the runway in a roster of 83 looks inspired by Monsieur Dior’s love of the circus. The collection speaks of archival influences combined with Maria Grazia’s own, now signature, approach to dressing the modern Dior woman. “Is it a man or a woman? It’s neither one nor the other – it’s a clown”, said the show notes (borrowed from the
60 WHO WAS THERE
“
When the opportunity arose to present the haute couture collection in Dubai, it seemed like a great opportunity to me... I could reconsider the work and have fifteen new silhouettes made by the Dior ateliers. Maria Grazia Chiuri
Mona Zaki in Dior AW17
Egyptian icon Yousra
Negin Mirsalehi in Dior SS19
book Le Costume de clown blanc: Gérard Vicaire, la passion pour seul habit by Sylvie Nguimfack-Perault), alluding to Maria Grazia’s sometime gender-fluid approach to design, as much as to the similarities between the showmanship of the catwalk to that of the circus itself. Tailoring stands strong against feminine plisse gowns and layers of frothy tulle. The colour palette is all at once monochromatic and full of glitter and rainbows, with each look telling its own story. From obvious clown references seen in the Pierrot doll caps and make-up, the tattoo bodysuits reminiscent of the Victorian fairground, to the ever-present Bar jacket updated to feel like a lion tamer’s coat, the influence of the circus flows throughout. Of course, the focus for us all was on the additional looks created especially for the Middle East, and they were everything we could hope for and more. Taking consideration for the region’s modest outlook as much as our love of drama, the 15 looks are bold and celebratory, like fireworks in the shimmering metallics and exquisite beaded motifs, making a good number of them appropriate for Ramadan. Met with a standing ovation, Maria Grazia took to the catwalk to take her final bow, as the tent curtains behind her parted to reveal the after-party venue, complete with Circus performers on unicycles, tables stacked with jars of marshmallows and towers of macaroons, creating the familiar feeling of being kids in a rather fabulous candy shop. Speaking of the experience of recreating such a major show outside of Paris, Maria Grazia shared, “It’s very interesting when you have the opportunity to do a fashion show in a new place. So when the opportunity arose to present the haute couture collection in Dubai, it seemed like a great opportunity to me, not only because a new audience would get to see the Circus collection, but also because I could reconsider the work already done and have fifteen new silhouettes made by the Dior ateliers. These ensembles are in tune with the couture theme, but are absolutely new in their shapes and materials.” All things considered, the time, money and effort spent on creating something exclusively for us can only mean one thing: Maria Grazia J’adiors Dubai.
Above: Dior’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, stands among models wearing the haute couture collection designed especially for the Middle East. Below (from left:): Dubai style influencer Karen Wazen, who took over Dior’s Instagram for the night, celebrates with Maria Grazia Chiuri; Lebanese actress Cyrine Abdelnour and Egyptian actress Nelly Karim sit front row
62 DIOR’S GOLD STANDARD Maria Grazia Chiuri has created an exclusive capsule for the Middle East featuring a selection of ready-to-wear looks from A/W19, including accessories, jewellery and sunglasses. Dubbed Dior Or, the new collection sees classic favourites Lady Dior, Saddle and Diorama bags dipped in gold, reinterpreted in dazzling metallics that are understated and eternally chic. Too good to only be worn after dark, these new pieces demand to be taken out on the town during the day, transitioning seamlessly as night falls. Available now exclusively in Dior boutiques across Dubai, and in stores throughout the Middle East from April 18
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
THE PIECES
To celebrate the recent S/S19 haute couture show held in Dubai,
Dior Saddle (left) & Diorama bags, part of the Dior Or capsule collection for the Middle East
ON THE STREET
64
A crochet cross-body pouch adds some summer flair
Chic wicker on the streets of Paris Fashion Week
Jacquemus’ all-natural oversized shopper
Wooden beads for added texture
Off-duty appeal with Dior's take on the classic basket
AU NATUREL Woven wicker, macramé raffia and cotton crochet, all the ingredients that make up summer’s most natural carryall accessory. Whether oversized or itty-bitty – anything with simple, natural texture is a must-have this season.
Carry everything, courtesy of a big basket
Fishnet weaves: this season's must-have accessory
Cowrie shells decorate Caroline Vreeland’s lobes
SUMMER SOUVENIRS Seeing seashells by the city shore? From cowrie to puka, the fashion world can’t seem to get enough of this pretty seaside trend. Follow the street style set and decorate your lobes with a cowrie earring or wear as a classic choker, layered with longer necklaces.
An oversized shell earring makes quite the conversation piece
Doubling up on shell anklets at London Fashion Week
Photography: GoRunway.com
A statement seashell choker
Layering lessons from Chiara Totire
Beach accessories hit the city
A stylish way to mix-and-match your shells
66
FASHION IN FOCUS
GIVENCHY
1
7
6 PLEASING PLEATS From delicate creases to interesting origami-like volume, pretty pleats are full of playful potential. Double up on accessories and have twice as much fun. 1. PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE at MATCHES FASHION | 2. LOEWE at MODA OPERANDI | 3. CASADEI at FARFETCH | 4. MAX MARA at FARFETCH | 5. MERCEDES SALAZAR at MODA OPERANDI | 6. TIBI at MY THERESA | 7. BOTTEGA VENETA at MY THERESA
2
4 3
5
PRADA
7
1
6 2 SATIN & SHINE No longer reserved for evenings alone, this coquettish fabric sees high-shine pieces return for everyday wear. Invest in ritzy duchesse satin fashion for day-to-night flaunting. 1. BY FAR at NET-A-PORTER | 2. DE LA VALI at BROWNS FASHION | 3. BALENCIAGA at MY THERESA | 4. PRADA at MATCHES FASHION | 5. SOPHIE BUHAI at NET-A-PORTER | 6. DUNDAS at MY THERESA | 7. NO.21 at THE MODIST
4 5 Photography: GoRunway.com
3
68 VALENTINO
7
1
6 2
PLAY ON PLUMES It’s flamboyant, it’s flashy and it’s utterly fancy. This season, feathers have sprouted on hemlines as well as accessories, making a swanky solid case for exuberant trimmings. 1. DIOR | 2. ATTICO at MODA OPERANDI | 3. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA at MATCHES FASHION | 4. NO.21 at THE MODIST | 5. GAS BIJOUX at OUNASS | 6. VALENTINO at MY THERESA | 7. ROCHAS at NET-A-PORTER
4 5 3
VICTORIA BECKHAM
1 7
2
KNOTS LANDING Maritime references are making a big statement as rope coils its way into spring – on the ankles in wrap-around stilettos and via hip-hugging slim belts.
6
1. ELISE TSIKIS at MATCHES FASHION | 2. MONSE at MODA OPERANDI | 3. MAX MARA | 4. HUNTING SEASON at BROWNS FASHION | 5. VALENTINO at MATCHES FASHION | 6. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI at NET-A-PORTER | 7. CHLOÉ
4
Photography: GoRunway.com
3
5
70
Photography: Rudolf Azzi. With special thanks to Galerie Pierre Ghattas
MOJEH FASHION
From left: Ruby wears suit by Jessica K, Jana and Maya wear suits by Escada
THE POWER OF THE SUIT Block colours, bold prints or structured forms, stylish women everywhere know that a good suit is unmatched in its impact
72
JANA BASSAM 26, Lebanese, stylist
How does Beirut-based stylist Jana Bassam dress to feel strong? “In a power suit,” she says definitively. “But not your classic lawyer suit. I love to mix a traditional suit with more fashion-forward designs and I really enjoy wearing suits that are colourful or have interesting cuts.” Her hero piece is a vintage blood orange suit by Escada given to her by her mother (seen on the previous page), whom she also cites as a style inspiration, thanks in part to the freedom she had as a child to play dress up with her wardrobe. The other strong woman who has impacted her sartorial choices is iconic style chameleon Madonna, who she admires for her confidence to try anything once. “She has been delivering striking fashion moments for more than three decades: the cones, the black, the daring, the chic, the bold, the outrageous. No one can do it like she did,” she says. Confidence is what Jana believes is key to pulling off the power suit. “As cliché as it sounds, you can wear whatever you want and go overboard, but if you don’t feel confident or are not at peace with yourself, it will My mum gave me always dim the shine of your outfit,” says the 26-year-old. a blood orange suit Her chosen suit silhouette? “I would go with the shoulder wedge as it comes with a masculine width to the shoulder which lends from Escada that she a slimmer look to the hips and waist.” She is also a fan of bold used to wear when ’80s-style shoulder pads. “When I think of strong and avantshe was my age. I garde women like Grace Jones and Madonna, I think of the always feel my most structured shoulder pads that would glue their look together.” When it comes to making a look her own, accessories play a key powerful when I’m role and she will rarely just wear a piece without putting her own wearing it! spin on it. “I would add a belt to create the illusion of a cinched Jana Bassam waist line, and some bold accessories: statement earrings, rings, necklaces, maybe a scarf. Layering goes a long way, too. Plus, it never hurts to have fun with hair and make-up,” she explains. The most worn item in her wardrobe is a pair of black combat boots, that add to the genderless aesthetic she favours. “They go with literally everything: jeans, shorts, skirts, dresses, dressed up, dressed down, when I’m lazy, when I’m energised.” Her go-to labels for suits are Victoria Beckham, Saint Laurent and Chanel, but she mostly likes to wear up-and-coming Lebanese label Boyfriend the Brand by her friend Amine Jreissati. “It’s minimal, subliminal and gender invisible. You notice the amazing quality and cuts when you look carefully, and that’s what makes a great piece. Also, what’s better than supporting our local designers?”
“
Jana wears suit by Thym
74
Ruby wears suit by Jessica K
RUBY MIKHAEL
26, Iraqi-Lebanese, fashion and fitness influencer
Describing herself as a “style chameleon”, Ruby Mikhael is not one to shy away from experimenting with fashion. “Honestly, I have so many different styles,” says the 26-year-old. “I can dress boyish or sexy, sophisticated and chic, or bohemian and artsy. It all really depends on my mood. I’m like a chameleon.” A keen traveller, adapting to her surroundings is something the Iraqi-Lebanese has nailed. Inspired by her many moods, she can be bohemian in Mykonos and Ibiza, a teeny bit French in Beirut and super-sophisticated in the city. But as a true fitness enthusiast at heart, it’s in her workout gear that she feels the most comfortable. “I feel the most powerful wearing my gym clothes,” she smiles. “My practice makes me feel powerful.” When not in her gym kit, she is a keen purveyor of a good suit, choosing to support regional brands like Reemami, Lama Jouni, Madiyah Al Sharqi and Lebanese label Jessica K over big designer names. Having worked hard at honing her figure, when getting dressed she likes to make her waist her focus by adding “a big belt to cinch at the waist, some accessories like statement earrings and a nice necklace to finish the look.” When I think She also has a penchant for shoulder pads. “I love shoulder fashion, I think pads! From political figures to Hollywood celebrities, everyone Cher in her heyday. was rocking the look back in the 1980s and now they have been She’s like a walking ruling the runway.” She has big life goals and looks to powerful women for inspiration butterfly. Her on her journey to being the strongest version of herself. looks were so “Amal Clooney is definitely someone I look up to,” she says. eye-catching. “She has accomplished a lot as a lawyer in her fight for human rights. She’s a brilliant activist.” Ruby Mikhael When it comes to fashion icons, Ruby’s are as diverse as she is. “When I think fashion, I think Cher in her heyday. She’s like a walking butterfly,” she says. “Her looks were so eye-catching and daring. She was never shy. All her outfits made a statement and had a story to tell.” At the other end of the spectrum, she thinks Audrey Hepburn epitomises timeless chic and that Madonna had some of the most memorable fashion moments throughout her 30-year career. Shopping for new labels is a favourite pastime of Ruby’s, and she spends hours trawling Instagram for unique brands to fill gaps in her wardrobe. “Recently I’ve been obsessing over Rio Farm, a Brazilian brand that is so colourful and tropical. And I am obsessed with Frankie Shop for everyday basics.”
“
76
MAYA KHODR
26, Lebanese, graphic designer
“I think Stella McCartney epitomises strong women,” says Lebanese graphic designer Maya Khodr of her female role models. “Not only through her clothes, but through what she has achieved as a businesswoman and as a creator.” Like many girls, it is Maya’s mother who has set the standard for the role models in her life. Working hard for as long as she can remember, Maya has nothing but admiration for the way her mum, an art restorer, balanced looking after her children and a successful career, while still looking fabulous. “I definitely aim to achieve as much as she has in my own life,” says the 26-year-old, who is already making a name for herself as quite the style influencer. Experimenting with fashion is one of Maya’s passions, and her Instagram account is testament to the fact that she thinks individuality is important. A fan of an avant-garde aesthetic as much as Victoriana and the new future vintage, Maya is pictured wearing Dior tailoring one day and hip Georgian brand Liya the next. For MOJEH’s shoot, she wore vintage suits by Escada and Thierry Mugler from her own collection. “Creating your own style is one of the only things you can use Creating your own to distinguish yourself within the world – especially the fashion style is one of the world,” she says. A bit of a film buff, Maya grew up addicted to movies, and says only things you can that’s where her more leftfield sense of style most likely comes use to distinguish from. “I think what inspired and still inspires my dress sense to yourself within the this day are characters from movies. I am a big fan of wardrobe world – especially in film. Some of my favourite dresses were the ones designed by Colleen Atwood in Alice in Wonderland.” the fashion world. Day-to-day she wears Zadig et Voltaire, Maje and Sandro – Maya Khodr “I’ve been wearing them for so long I know exactly what fits me” – and she lives in sneakers. “A good pair will take you anywhere!”she says. Maya describes her personal style as extreme, and dresses dependent on her mood: “I sometimes like to overdo it, but sometimes go for the simplest thing.” She doesn’t have style heroes, but says Katherine Hepburn’s courage as one of the first women to wear trousers back in the 1930s inspired her to break tradition and wear a suit to her prom, ensuring she stood out against the blowdries and ballgowns. Her biggest fashion regret? “Losing my mum’s Chanel jacket” – something she’s been living down ever since.
“
Maya wears suit by Thierry Mugler
78
MOJEH WOMEN
UPCYCLE YOUR STYLE As the Middle East catches up with eco-friendly, sustainable fashion concepts, MOJEH meets the women who are championing the chicest way to save the planet
T
he fact that the fashion industry is one of the dirtiest on earth is no secret. It’s the second-largest global consumer of water, generates around 20 percent of the world’s wastewater and releases half-a-million tons of synthetic microfibers into the ocean annually. Textile production contributes more to climate change than international aviation and shipping combined, and by 2050, the global fashion industry could use more than a quarter of the global carbon budget associated with a 2-degrees Celcius temperature rise. Globally, clothes consumption is predicted to rise by 63 per cent by 2030 – the equivalent of more than 500 billion T-shirts. Calculations claim that more than $500 billion of value is lost each year due to clothing “under-utilisation and the lack of recycling”, while total greenhouse gas emissions from textiles production amount to 1.2 billion metric tons annually. Recent research by the UN states that in order to sustain our current lifestyles, by 2050 we could need the equivalent of almost three planets to provide the natural resources we use. In short, our desire for cheap, on-trend clothing means fashion is quite literally costing the earth. Just weeks after the UK’s Environment Audit Committee called on the government to make fast fashion retailers take
responsibility for the waste they create, the UN launched the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion to halt the industry’s environmentally and socially destructive practices, and instead harness it as a driver for improving the world’s ecosystems. Finally, it seems that awareness of how damaging fast fashion is to the planet is starting to lead to a slow but necessary change. As a result, according to a comprehensive data guide compiled by fashion search engine Lyst, sustainability practices are starting to shift in fashion in more ways than one. Lyst claims that in 2018, searches for sustainable fashion increased by 66 per cent. An additional positive increase revealed by Lyst’s data focused upon the resale and recycling of luxury products, particularly logo pieces. Claiming a 62 per cent increase in searched-for vintage logo pieces from brands such as Fendi, Dior and Louis Vuitton, Lyst notes that recycled fashion is one of the quickest and easiest ways for consumers to start becoming more sustainable – which is great news for eco-friendly fashionistas who love a luxury bargain. As MOJEH meets the founders behind two of Dubai’s pre-loved fashion boutiques, we reveal the closely-guarded shopping secrets of some of the most stylish and sustainablyminded women in the region.
Words: Lucy Wildman, Dina Kabbani . Photogaphy: Borna Ahadi
Words by Lucy Wildman
Sian wears shoes by Jimmy Choo and earrings by Tatty Devine
SIAN ROWLANDS CEO and Chief storyteller at Retold
Like most great business ideas, the best concepts are borne out of love. In Sian Rowland’s case, her business plan evolved from the fact she had a little too much love for shopping. “I originally started the concept in 2011, when I discovered a huge gap in the market for a consignment service focusing on high street fashion. This actually came about because I used to have a bit of a shopping problem, and at the time there was nowhere in Dubai to sell any unwanted or unworn pieces.” A university graduate in Architecture and Interior Design, and a Dubai resident for more than 30 years, Sian had a successful 15-year career designing hotels, bars and restaurants in the city before switching full time to running Retold. And despite having no professional fashion experience, the 37-year-old’s love of retail therapy in all its guises, paired with a strong
creative streak compelled her to do something new that combined two of her greatest passions – shopping and history. “As kids, we lived in England near a big antiques hub called Hemswell Antiques Centre. We’d often visit, and I would regularly get lost in there for hours, searching through all the pieces and wondering where they’d been and what they had seen. I now have a collection of antique cameras, art work prints, and even an old gramaphone, so my interest in all things with a story to tell has always been there.” Originally launching her business as My Ex-Wardrobe, Sian rebranded to Retold in 2017. “It wasn’t until then that I made the decision to open the boutique. and finally, on January 22, 2018, we launched.” Making her first sale the day before they officially opened to one of the volunteers helping to get the store finished, the days that followed were a whirlwind of money-making activity. “To be honest, I was totally exhausted, but the cash register was ringing constantly, which was brilliant,” recalls Sian. Just over a year later, and Sian’s working days are as varied as the array of pre-loved stock hanging on the rails of her Al Barsha boutique. “I have days that are filled with admin tasks, strategy and development planning, and on the flip side I have days packed with exciting meetings discussing collaborations and growth opportunities. I have an amazing team supporting me, who handle all of the events, operations, administration and sales. You won’t often actually find me at the boutique, but when I am there, I’ll be checking out the new stock and chatting to customers and clients.” While fashion sustainability is currently the topic on everyone’s lips, there was a time when the second hand clothing market was something few in the region would admit to being interested in. “It really took time to convince people in the UAE that buying second hand goods was OK,” reveals Sian. “I have been ‘campaigning’ since 2011, but now there is an increased level of awareness about the importance of recycling clothing in this kind of way, which is fantastic. It’s certainly making every day at work that little bit easier for us, and I’m finally starting to see all the hard work paying off.” And it’s the eco-friendliness of the pre-owned shopping industry that drives Sian’s business ethos. “I’m passionate about what we can do to save the planet, and being environmentally friendly is the most important part of what Retold is about,” explains Sian. “I read somewhere that buying and wearing second hand clothing is the second most sustainable choice behind being nude. Since that’s not really the done thing here, we’re doing our best to be the next, most eco-friendly option that we can be. There are over 150 billion items of clothes manufactured every year, and an equal number of items are sent to landfill annually. This fills me with a certain amount of anger and resentment towards the fashion industry, and this is the issue that Retold is tackling. There are already enough items of clothing in circulation, so our plan is to reduce the demand on the ‘new’ and encourage people to ‘renew.’
80
“
I’m going to continue to make waves in the sustainability sphere in Dubai – and every day, my campaining voice gets louder. Sian Rowlands In a city known as an international shopping destination, despite having countless malls selling brand new items, finding pre-loved, second hand or vintage fashion outlets has never been simple for those seeking an alternative to the mainstream. “Our biggest hurdle has been raising awareness and getting our name out there – letting people know that we exist,” says Sian. And since dispelling misconceptions about the resale of second hand clothing is no longer such an issue, thanks to improved education on the subject and an increased interest in the region’s vintage fashion market, Retold’s appeal is growing as word spreads. “We live in such a melting pot of cultures, but there is still a little hesitation from some people, which is entirely expected. However, we already have so many amazing customers and fans,” says Sian. With strict guideleines in place about exactly what makes it to the shop floor, Sian’s rule is to have her boutique full of items in nothing less than exceptional condition. And with more than a nod to fashion’s second biggest current buzzword, diversity reigns at Retold. With high street finds happily sharing rail space with designer brands, the premise is that as long as it’s fabulous by style standards, Sian’s happy to try and rehome it. “Whilst we deal with all brands, from high-street through to designer and luxury labels, we require that everything is in perfect, new or nearly-new condition. Our shoppers love that they can expect a particularly good standard of items to choose from, and I take pride in maintaining our boutique criteria. We do have strict guidelines about what we accept, so none of our items are heavily used – in fact up to 25 per cent of our products are still brand new with their original tags, and the other 75 per cent are in perfect condition.” Sourcing from individuals decluttering their closets all over the Emirates, with up to 2,000 pre-loved items arriving in store every month, there’s a constant supply of unique pieces making their way to the rails. “Lots of our clients love us specifically because we carry a selection of both high street and designer pieces,” explains Sian. “There are certain brands that do really well, especially when we receive hardto-find pieces from somewhere like Zara that flew out of the store on the high street the first time around. Boutique label brands are always popular, as are the limited-edition designer and high street collaborations. Of course, classic statement pieces from luxury labels like Valentino and Chanel are always in demand. If we receive some Rockstuds, or a Chanel 2.55, for example, they won’t be with us for very long.” From top: Rupert Sanderson heels and Menli Fashion feather trim coats, available at Retold
From top: Quirky accessories, pretty foulards and leather shoes fill every corner at Retold
Bag and boots by Fendi, available at Retold
Along with the fact that recycling clothing is vital to saving the planet, while clearly eco-conscious, those selling their unwanted items at Retold are financially savvy too. “We sell on behalf of individuals who have done a wardrobe clear-out, and currently have a waiting list of ladies ready to sell, “ explains Sian. “ Our main client profile is a mostly women in their late twenties to forties, who are fashionable, sociable, socio-economically-aware and really smart with money. They use our service because they fully appreciate several of the values Retold upholds; they can regain some of their hard-earned cash on items they no longer want, renew the lifespan of the pieces they entrust to us and reap the emotional benefits of decluttering their wardrobes.” Indeed, with organisation guru Marie Kondo’s theory of only keeping items that ‘bring joy’ to their owners sweeping the globe, as closets across the UAE are being cleared out, Retold is receiving a wealth of forgotten fashion gems that would otherwise have languished, unloved, in the back of someone’s cupboard. “ There are lots of things prompting people to kiss ‘goodbye’ to things they don’t wear, and ‘hello’ to valuable wardrobe space and a bolstered bank balance,” notes Sian. “All of which are great for our business, the environment, and, as a knock-on effect, the health and wellbeing of our clients and customers.”
Conscientiousness is something that Sian is particularly passionate about at she continues to grow her business. “I have tried to build sustainability into everything we do,” says Sian. “Its one of our core company values. From the tiny things, like the fact we have a water filter installed at the boutique and offer our customers free refils, to the more significant ones, I try and think about every part of how our daily existence as a business can be better and more considered.” Trying to minimise the global footprint of herself, her employees and those living in the city she calls home, however, is how Sian intends to turn Retold into a leader of the sustainable fashion world. “ I always think about the bigger impact we are having on the fashion industry as a whole. Since I opened the boutique, we have rehomed over 8,000 items of clothing, and by the end of 2019 , I aim to have rehomed over 20,000 pieces. The environmental impact of this is actually pretty impressive, especially if you consider the fact that by extending the lifespan of an item by merely two months, we reduce it’s carbon footprint by up to 10 per cent.” Dedicated to making a change for the better, Sian cites Retold’s key company values as sustainability, altruism, passion, conscientiousness and accessibility, and has big plans for the brand. “I have an overriding vision of making the world a better place,” she says. “There are so many incredible and inspiring people out there who are all working so hard to do something that benefits the planet and all of us living upon it. Genuinely, that’s the thing that gets me up and out of bed every morning, and what inspires me to work as hard as I do. I would love to see Retold have a global presence, both online and offline – and my vision is to see us helping to rehome hundreds of thousands of items each month.” With such big plans afoot, and at a time when the fashion industry is in such a gigantic state of flux, Sian intends to step-up her efforts to make the UAE a more eco-fashionconscious place. “ I’m going to continue to make waves in the sustainability sphere here in Dubai, and every day my campaigning voice gets louder... so be prepared to hear a lot more from me.”
82
From left: Maya wears top by Alice & Olivia, skirt and bag by Gucci and boots by Chanel. Tima wears jacket by Chanel. All available at Riot
MAYA TALIH & TIMA HAMADEH Founders, Riot online vintage store
In an age of knockoffs, constantly evolving trends and fasterthan-fast fashion, finding and owning vintage designer treasures has never been so desirable. A good revived and reworn piece is the ultimate statement: an ‘It’ piece that’s highly unlikely to be spotted walking down the street beside you. And that’s exactly what online marketplace Riot prides itself on; finding and discovering pre-loved gems and rehoming them with new owners who will cherish them as if they were box-fresh. Launched back in December 2016 by Lebanese cousins Maya Talih and Tima Hamadeh, the young Dubai-based company offers an ultra-curated luxury e-commerce site where women can discover archival and pre-owned products without having to leave the comfort of their home. “The idea behind Riot came from our own closets. We realised that we were ‘hoarding’ luxury designer items
mostly because they were expensive and we could not let go of them. There were thousands of dollars’ worth of assets just lying around in our wardrobes,” explains 31-year-old Tima. “The realisation that we could monetise our pre-loved items, either to finance ourselves or to donate to charity got us researching this problem, and that is when we got to the heart of it – which is basically that saying, ‘I have a closet full of clothes but I have nothing to wear’ is no longer acceptable given the state of the planet.” And they couldn’t be closer to the truth; according to World Wild Life it can take 2,700 litres of water to produce the cotton needed to make a single T-shirt. Moreover, the demand for fast fashion and the quick turnaround in trends means that more clothes are being manufactured every day and more than 80 billion pieces of clothing are produced each year, of which 75 per cent ends up in landfill. For shoppers concerned with their carbon footprint, and who believe that style and ethics are not incompatible, finding that hidden gem amongst hundreds of cast-offs is like a badge of honour. “Riot was founded from a strong belief in circular and sustainable fashion. By promoting ‘upcycling’ we are offering better consumer choices to people who love high-end luxury fashion. Every time a consumer buys a preloved item, they increase its life by about 2.2 years, thereby reducing its carbon footprint by about 73 per cent,” says 37-year-old Maya. “Fashion is one of the top five most polluting industries and Riot is adamant about making a change by altering consumers’ mindsets and disrupting the status quo of highend consumerism.” One of the changes, if not the biggest one, that the duo aspires to bring about has to do with the stigma attached to buying pre-loved in the region. An on-going mission, they have set out to “revolutionise the way consumers think and act about luxury products in the Middle East by promoting the extended lifecycle of luxury goods and leading innovation in sustainable fashion for positive environmental impact,” explains Tima. “We are sure that the Middle East will catch up with the trend. Pre-loved is more environmentally friendly, the hunt is more fun, and the message is more wholesome. It’s all about educating consumers and making sure they know the impact of their choices and, even more importantly, that they are aware of just how much choice they have. We want our consumers to wear pre-loved with pride and shout out that it’s cool to care for our world! That is the kind of disruptive behavior we want to bring into the local market. Stella McCartney said she believes, ‘the future of fashion is circular, it will be restorative and regenerative by design and the clothes we love never end up as waste.’ And we think our region is up for the challenge.” With no academic or business background in fashion, Maya and Tima’s outlook is more consumer-driven than anything,
Riot’s portfolio features timeless pieces from the likes of Dior and Chanel From top: Balenciaga Triple S Low-Top sneakers and Chanel Boy bag available at Riot
where they play a multi-faceted, simultaneous role of buyer, seller and advocate of circular fashion. It takes special talent to come up with a fresh shopping strategy for designer goods, let alone pre-loved ones, but the cousins have managed to master the trick of digging and discovering forgotten-aboutpieces, then curating them beautifully in order to find them a forever home. “Curation is often one of our biggest challenges as we search for items that are vintage, classical and timeless, but also items that are on-trend and in tune with fast fashion. Sorting through thousands of incoming pieces and finding the gems, so to speak, is often extremely labour-intensive albeit lots of fun!” says Tima. “Once we have our beautiful piece (in mint condition) selected, it then goes through an authentication process – this is at the heart and soul of our inventory journey. Every single item needs to be thoroughly authenticated and we do this in two rounds: an initial internal round where it is checked by our team against a set of guidelines, and a second round where it is checked by our third-party authenticators, Authenticate First, based in the US. Then the challenge is how to style this item so it’s relevant to current fashion trends and
how to make consumers feel like they are buying something unique that is not just high-end but hand-picked for being special, because it is!” adds Maya. Sourced by individual sellers who approach the women through the website or social media, items that make it onto Riot’s virtual shopping floor go through not only a rigorous authentication process, but are also subjected to a very detailed pricing process – to ensure that they give sellers the best value for their item while remaining fair and competitive to the consumer. “The first thing we ever sold was a 35cm Thalassa Blue Birkin. It happened so quickly! The buyer contacted us after seeing the bag on our social media and after studying it in more detail on the website. She asked if she could see it physically which is something that we offer,” says Maya of the first sale. “I took it to her myself, and within five minutes she was paying for it. She had apparently been on the waitlist at Hermès for some time, and had wanted this colour and size for a while. I was so flustered and excited, I couldn’t figure out how to work the card machine, and kept getting an error message. It was a hilarious but amazing day for us. I mean, we had only been live for a few days and a Birkin is a big sale!”
84
Lama (left) turned her cancer diagnosis into a personal quest for positive change, which led to the fashion brand she launched with her sister, Lys (right)
Photography: Borna Ahadi
MOJEH WOMEN
STYLE WITH SENTIMENT As her collection captures attention at Arab Fashion Week, we speak to the founder of BLSSD, a cancer survivor who transformed her experience into salvation for others like her Words by Laura Beaney
T
he painful truth about life is that when curve balls come, we’re seldom expecting them. “I was working as a creative director for Saatchi & Saatchi and was only just married,” explains Lama Riachi, the 40-year-old Lebanese founder of fashion label BLSSD. In the months leading up to her ovarian cancer diagnosis, the newlywed was busying herself making plans for her future. Following 14 years of focus at the international advertising agency she had been trying to start a family. “At a crushing time like that, you just don’t think,” she says, poised and effortlessly chic in her appearance, yet warm and humble in her demeanour. “You need someone to pick you up. And my marriage, while childless as a result of the cancer, became very close. I now see my diagnosis as a pivotal point that spun my life towards something better.” Lama’s optimism seems hard to swallow given the harrowing circumstances that came her way. And her experience, while unquestionably traumatic, alerted her to the parts of the process that we typically don’t talk about. She was met with what she describes as a “maze” of paperwork and overwhelming logistics, as well as insufficient information to support her recovery. “When I asked my oncologist if I could support my body through nutrition he replied ‘not really’. A response which, to me, seemed baffling. And while I understand that science is still lacking conclusive evidence surrounding the positive impact that nutrition can have upon cancer, I made it my business to educate myself in this field,” explains Lama, who is passionate about the cause and effect of how we fuel our bodies. “I greatly believe in the power of prevention as a lifestyle, and the importance of controlling oxidative stress which can greatly impact the immune system,” she reflects. “In hindsight, I now see how much stress I was putting my body under prior to my diagnosis.” Lama, now a qualified plant-based nutritionist, is well-versed in the intricacies of a functional, nutrient-dense diet and its
BLSSD
86
BLSSD is available at Dubai’s Mojo Gallery, Alserkal Avenue; 1422, Citywalk (opening later this month) and online at Blssdfashion.com
potentially positive relationship with the body. For many cancer survivors, the diagnosis acts as a jolt to re-examine lifestyle choices and explore alternative ways to nourish and nurture, but during her recovery Lama looked beyond her individual needs to those of others, who could greatly benefit from the knowledge she had gained on her journey. “Having gone through the emotionally and physically exhausting experience of ovarian cancer, I knew it had to mean something,” she insists. “When I finally returned home following five months of treatment, I felt compelled to look at a newspaper one night – that’s something I never typically do. On the front page I saw a woman, Jo Abaya, who had breast cancer and was looking for financial support to complete her treatment, as her insurance had been capped. The article moved me so deeply, and through contacts, friends and family, I managed to raise the money to get Jo through her treatment.” This achievement, you could say, was the start of Blessed (together), the support group jointly masterminded by Lama and Jo, with the aim of providing an invaluable support system for other cancer patients. “My experience supporting Jo reiterated that there’s a lack of information and education available to individuals in this position,” says Lama. Blessed (together) began as a Whatsapp-based support group, focused primarily upon sharing information and tips for nutritional healing.
A simple but much-needed concept, the three-member group grew into a comprehensive 165+ strong network of cancer patients, survivors, oncologists, psychologists and support workers. Operating without funds or resources, Blessed (together) created a ripple effect, spread by word of mouth as patients in the group met with others during treatment. “Most support groups are focused around Breast Cancer,” explains Lama. “At Blessed (together) we welcome anyone with any type of cancer. We have built up a network of oncologists, healthcare professionals and caretakers who refer patients to us.” As well as answering queries related to treatment, medication and nutrition, the group provides critical emotional support connecting humans and offering comfort. The community ensures that no one ever has to go to hospital alone, and on a financial level Blessed (together) provides support for individuals with limited insurance. “We pay for scans, treatments, operations, and medication including, where possible, purchasing cheaper generic drugs outside the UAE, we also provide transportation and repatriation for terminal cases,” says the co-founder. “Insurance caps were one of our biggest challenges initially, but this is gradually being dealt with,” says Lama. “This shift sees us move from being reactive, in terms of helping people finish treatment, to being proactive in terms of providing education on prevention, and assisting patients during and post-treatment. I’m thrilled every time I see a person come forth and speak freely about their experience. Finding the courage to unload that burden is one of the biggest steps a patient can take towards real healing,” she smiles. As well as challenges with finance, the group has also faced social and cultural hurdles. “We are up against a deeply-rooted societal attitude that unfortunately sees cancer as a taboo,” she reveals. “Many don’t even attend their treatment because of social stigma, and so many others suffer post-treatment because they’re ashamed of speaking about being ‘damaged’.” Since the support group was established, Lama has seen the conversation surrounding the importance of psychological support taking a more positive turn, both nationally and regionally, but there’s still progress to be made. And on an operational level, as the number of Blessed (together) members increased, it became apparent that ongoing funds were vital to ensure a lasting difference. Restrictions on fundraising in the UAE posed a challenge, but Lama was driven to succeed. This hurdle marked the next phase of her work, and the establishment of BLSSD. Launched by Lama and her sister Lys in 2015, BLSSD is a fashion label functioning as a social enterprise to generate funds for Blessed (together). As well as acting as a key revenue driver for the support group, BLSSD
Lys and Lama would like to see BLSSD expand internationally, and into both men’s and childrenswear, allowing further funding for Lama’s cancer support group, Blessed (together)
sparks the conversation of cancer, and goes some way to addressing the regional taboo of the disease. Many have seen fashion as a strong platform to extol positive messages, but often the output of ‘conscious clothing’ can feel a little stale, with style coming secondary to sentiment. BLSSD packs a sartorial punch. Side-stepping clichés, it’s a marriage of thoughtful design and conscious ethos in equal measure. “BLSSD’s design aesthetic is inspired, informed and expressed by surprising juxtapositions. Utility meets comfort, work becomes play, contemporary acknowledges classic and street embraces sophistication,” says Lama, who drew on her 14 years of experience as a creative director when formulating her brand. “The majority of our designs are free-sized, often trans-seasonal and produced in short runs, which limits waste. They’re also produced in the UAE using local artisans and small businesses to support the community. As we move forward, we will ensure that our fabric choices reflect our belief in sustainability, treating the planet with the gratitude it deserves.” The label’s current pre-fall 2019 collection, Pret-A-Gratitude, comes fresh from the Arab Fashion Week catwalk, and takes cues from Lama’s experience. “Going through a lifechanging event leaves you looking at the world differently. You start seeing meaning in unexpected places, appreciating simple things, and finding beauty in imperfection,” she says.
The collection features a culmination of design dualities: sportswear and urban luxe crossover, telling a story that goes from streetwear to street style. “There’s unexpected pairings of hard and soft, as hardware is integrated into gentle fabrics and luxury materials shine through in unexpected ways, like the flash of a sequin lining that gives a glimpse of inner beauty. The collection features stories of deconstruction and celebrates perfection in imperfection,” she paints. “For me, Pret-A-Gratitude is more than just a trademark, it’s the driving force behind every aspect of who we are – creative people who started this label out of purpose, not just commercial gain; what we do – helping cancer patients get treatment; and how we do it – our ethos as a conscious social enterprise. That culminates as ‘wearable gratitude’.” Lama has big plans for BLSSD, to retail internationally and expand into men’s and childrenswear. In parallel, Blessed (together) continues to evolve, hopefully into an educational platform including open access to information on preventative and positive nutritional, psychological and lifestyle choices. Her brand is a symbol of resilience, and as Lama’s legacy continues to grow, visibly impacting lives, we are reminded that compelling creativity often arises from the most adverse situations, and that human connection is far-reaching. “The collective human spirit is a powerful force in helping people to heal, accept, and grow from trauma,” Lama confirms.
88
Photography: Courtesy of MatchesFashion.com
MOJEH WOMEN
Matches Fashion’s Natalie Kingham wears suit by Charles Jeffrey, Prada loafers and her own jewellery
THE BUSINESS OF BUYING Natalie Kingham tells Lucy Wildman how she landed her dream job, why Isabella Blow is her work style icon, and how she’s using her role to shape the future of sustainable fashion
A
s dream jobs go, Natalie Kingham has one of the most coveted in the business. The 47-year-old fashion and buying director of Matches Fashion oversees all aspects of the womenswear buy for the online megabrand, and has seen it grow from an extension of one of London’s coolest boutiques to one of the world’s leading luxury fashion e-tailers. A long-time champion of emerging designers and a supporter of sustainable fashion thanks to a hugely successful partnership with ecoAid, alongside Matches co-founders Tom and Ruth Chapman, Natalie has been instrumental in creating the future of the fashion industry – a future that is as environmentally and ethically-focused as it packed with fresh sartorial talent. We meet as she introduces London-based, American-born designer Michael Halpern to the region, another of Natalie’s big discoveries. With a charm and warmth that mirrors her impeccable sense of style, as we settle into our chat with the South London native, it’s clear that Natalie is a woman who was quite literally born to do this job. “I’m very happy that I get to wear my exclusive-for-Matches feathered Prada today,” she says, showing off her dress as we sit poolside in a luxury suite at Five Palm Jumeira. “I don’t often get to wear this kind of thing for an interview.” Indeed, a packed work schedule, multiple meetings and endless airport runs to international events does not often call for ostrich feathers and organza at the breakfast table. Still, with such incredible designer pieces at her fingertips, one would imagine that Natalie’s working wardrobe would be a living, breathing fashion editorial. “If I didn’t do my job I would probably wear a lot stronger fashion than I actually do. I’d be all out there,” she explains, a comment to which I am visibly surprised. “But because of the nature of my work, and the fact that I need to wear so many different types of hats in one day, I tend to try and keep things clean and conservative. Well at least I think I do. I mean, I wear a lot of tailoring, but with a twist.” And if she
wasn’t vying for the title of Heathrow Airport’s most regular visitor? “Then I’d definitely be more avant-garde. Probably a bit Isabella Blow.” Quite the most apt choice of style icon for a woman who admits to wearing numerous hats in her daily professional role. The multiple hat-wearing ability stems from Natalie’s incredibly diverse fashion background. “When I was very young, I wondered how could I travel the world and work in fashion,” she begins. “So I started out trying to be a fashion photographer and work at magazines. Then I did some retail, working on the shop floor at Joseph at Brompton Cross. I worked on other people’s brands styling, on my own brand and I also wholesaled collections. I did a tiny bit of buying in the early days, but really moved into it once I’d done all those other things. That experience gave me a really good, 360-degree angle of how the industry worked – how retail works, how PR works, how brands work and how styling worked. But it was buying where I felt the most passionate.” Joining the company in 2010, as founders Tom and Ruth were developing the digital arm of Matchesfashion.com, Natalie’s appointment saw her riding the crest of a new wave of online luxury shopping. “It’s been an incredible journey,” says Natalie. “I feel like I was very fortunate because I’ve evolved at the same time as the business.” Central to growing the brand both online and in store, Natalie has been the driving force behind Matches Fashion’s covetable list of collaborations and exclusive launches, including collections by Altuzarra, Emilia Wickstead, Vivienne Westwood, Erdem and Preen, and responsible for launching the careers of some of the industry’s finest fashion designers. But how does one go about consistently finding new talent? “By working extremely hard,” she explains. “It’s difficult because you’ve got so many different buys to do that it’s tough to find the time to go and look at new things. But it’s vital that you do. It means that every spare half an hour you’ve got, you’re ducking out somewhere
90
Noki’s vibrant upcycled waste pieces from Matches Fashion’s S/S19 collection
“
You’ve got to completely love what you do when you have to get up every day and be really passionate about everything... That’s when you do a good job. Natalie Kingham
to go and look at a new label.” Requiring a fashion radar on a state of constant high-alert, unearthing a great new designer sometimes means following their work for a couple of seasons, or even a few years before they are finally picked up. “There’s a few brands we stock at Matches that maybe the first time I saw them was in the living room of their house. Then by season four, they’re up and running in their own studio, and then we’ll start working with them,” says Natalie of her fashion fledglings. “They’re always very complimentary about the fact Matches was the first to go and see or watch them, so you really do have to find that extra time – and sometimes that can be challenging. But I like that part of my job, and make sure that I do it as much as I can. You just have to keep rummaging around and looking until you find that designer jewel buried somewhere.” Right now, those finds include a number of designers for whom sustainability – a rapidly-growing industry focus – is at the very core of their brand DNA. “We do a project called The Innovators twice a year, which was borne out of that part of my job where I’m looking for exciting new designers. I kept coming across people who were doing collections made of dead stock, or in very limited runs because it was all handmade, or they just created one capsule a year, or were artists and sometimes made some clothes. I wanted to find a way of harnessing some of this product, and these brands and designers, because what they were doing was brilliant but it didn’t work with the normal fashion cycle. So we called them The Innovators.” With a different focus every time, the third and most recent round of Innovators was dedicated to sustainability, and showcased the work of designers Kevin Germanier, Noki, Ingy Stockholm and Peterson Stoop. “This was such an incredible group” says Natalie. “All of them creating amazing stuff out of what is considered junk. Because it wasn’t even about sustainability – it was making collections out of pure waste, redesigned and upscaled in a way that was so luxurious, you
wouldn’t even think it started off as something that would have otherwise been thrown away.” Such was the success of this particular project, Natalie is determined to make this a larger part of the Matches Fashion development plan. “I want to talk more about sustainability and waste. We’ve been working with ecoAid for the last two years, who look at everything in our business and the designers we work with. They’re making it easier for us to go in this direction, and we will be working with them more closely on the product and design side, which includes couture and demi-couture elements. In a time where streetwear and casual has become so dominant, I want to highlight these artisanal crafts and details that we shouldn’t forget about.” Part of being a buyer, or, in Natalie’s case, a 24/7 fashion explorer, means there’s a lot of travel involved in her role. An awful lot. “I’m probably flying weekly, sometimes twice a week. We’re always going somewhere and doing something. So you have to like travel, which I do. I love it. But the worst part is the packing and unpacking. I haven’t quite mastered that yet.” While Natalie’s notion of mastery probably beats most people’s ability to pack a suitcase hands down, what she has nailed the concept of is being constantly on-call. “Its a round-the-clock job because of the different time zones and the travel, which means you’re always working digitally and remotely. I’ve got used to that,” she reveals. But does she ever actually switch her phone off? “Not really, no. We switch off mentally sometimes to make sure we look after ourselves – and I’m very good at looking after myself. Even if it’s just an hour here and there to have a massage, or get my nails done – those small things that make you feel better when you’re working hard and away from home. But I know I couldn’t turn the emails off. They are quite important.” Indeed, there are down sides to every job. But as far as Natalie is concerned, the enjoyable parts of her role vastly outweigh the slightly inconvenient ones. “I love my job. I couldn’t do it if I didn’t, because it’s allconsuming. But I feel that all jobs with a creative aspect are
92
Marta Ferri, who creates unique pieces using vintage fabrics, is one of The Innovators for SS19
like that anyway. You’ve got to completely love what you do when you have to get up every day and be really passionate about everything you’re doing. That’s when you do a good job.” So what does it take to be a great fashion buyer? Like many plum roles in the industry, just loving fashion won’t cut it – you have to live and breathe it, as well as be able to keep up with its ever-accelerating rate of development. “You’ve got to obsessively enjoy it,” says Natalie. “You’ve got to be flexible and take risks. Listen to your gut. Listen to the customer. Understand how women’s lifestyles are changing, what they want from their wardrobes and react accordingly. It’s not enough to be aware of trends anymore, you have to predict them, and pre-empt what it is your customer is going to want before she even knows she wants it.” Of the latest brands to be embraced by Matches Fashion, Natalie has a number that she’s particularly looking forward to introducing to her customers. “I really don’t have favourites – you can’t when you’re a buyer. It’s a bit like trying to choose your favourite child. But if I had to pick three for S/S19, I’d say Ferian – she’s an ex-stylist who makes these beautifully sleek satchels and belts, and fantastic jewellery. Then we have an Australian label called SIR, which stands for Separates, Intimates and Ready-to-Wear – they do some really good, easy summer dressing, which is super-pretty. And then there’s Emma Willis, who makes these incredible shirts that I’m really
excited about. She’s been making traditional men’s shirts for more than 30 years from her Jermyn Street tailors, and now we have her line of women’s shirts available at Matches. It’s so hard to find a great man’s shirt for a woman, so I hope I’ve cracked it with Emma.” Aside from her incredible designer pedigree, Emma’s shirts are crafted using cotton made in a Swiss mill with renewable water sources, and hand-made in England. She also oversees the charity she launched in 2008, Style For Soldiers, which creates bespoke shirts for injured veterans of the British Armed Forces.“We’re so happy to be able to support Emma’s cause by working with her,” says Natalie. “There’s actually a lot of great stories with a lot of our new brands, and those stories have become more and more relevant to the consumer. Understanding the story behind the brand is so important, because realistically, it’s not just a shirt that you’re buying – although that’s great as it is – there’s so much more besides that matters in their brand ethos.” And while fashion buying may be her main role, telling the story behind those buys is becoming even more important for the increasingly-aware fashion consumer. “That’s why we started doing podcasts” explains Natalie. “They’re really interesting, because the customer hears first-hand exactly what the story is behind the bag, or the shoe or the shirt they’re buying. They get to find out why the designer is doing what they’re doing, and
“
I love androgyny, and I love subcultures and I love minimalism, but it’s so nice to come to Dubai and rock eveningwear in the daytime. It’s such a treat. The glamour aspect of Dubai is fabulous.
CAPSULE CLOSET Natalie Kingham’s personal pick of the key pieces with which to fill your closet for the new season, all at Matches Fashion
Natalie Kingham
why they create what they create, and I think that people can really believe in the integrity and authenticity of the brand and buy into it more once they know about all about it. Because it makes it personal.” As the woman who knows each element of those back stories behind every brand available on the site, who is surrounded by exceptional designer garments at every turn, one would assume that inadvertent shopping must be a giant occupational hazard for her, or indeed any fashion buyer. So how does Natalie shop her own buy? “It’s very hard when there are so many great designers to choose from. And like I said before, in this job, you can’t really have a favourite.” A luxury problem, perhaps? “Yes, it’s a luxury problem, agreed” she laughs. “But it is genuinely really difficult, because I have quite an eclectic personal taste anyway. Polar opposites in fact. I like masculine tailoring, for example, but I really, really love glamour. But I suppose that probably makes me quite a good buyer, because I enjoy all those different elements of fashion.” As a woman who frequently finds herself wearing tailoring or a multi-functional dress for days at the office, indulging her glamorous fashion alter-ego is a rarity. “When I can bust out my sequins and glitter I get very excited – there’s an inner peacock inside of me just desperate to get out,” she reveals. “I love a bit of sparkle, which is why I love Halpern, and wearing amazing things that make you feel happy and empowered. And you can’t always wear that for lunch. Although you probably can in Dubai.” Admittedly, if ever there was a city where you could wear topto-toe couture or rainbow-coloured sequins as you pick up a sandwich, Dubai is the place to do it. “The women here are SO glamorous,” she adds, nodding to two fabulously extra-looking clients on a private new season shopping appointment back in the suite. “I love that about this place. I love androgyny, and I love subcultures and I love minimalism, but it’s so nice to come to Dubai and rock eveningwear in the daytime. It’s such a treat. The glamour aspect of Dubai is fabulous, and it’s done in such a chic and stylish way. I have to admit, I’ve been feeling very under-dressed since I arrived here!”
The 24/7 suit from Marina Moscone will change your life
Style staple: the classic white shirt by Emma Willis
Invest in a pair of high-waisted trousers by Francoise Eternally chic: the naked sandal by Emme Parson is a holiday go-to
The handmade bag by Ferian is what the cool girls are wearing
94
MODERN MUSE Photography by Matthew Priestley Styling by Julie Brooke Williams
Dress, jacket and earrings, DIOR
96
Hat, bodysuit, ring and necklace, DIOR
Dress, belt, bralette, briefs, earrings and ring, DIOR
98
Dresses, jumpsuit and hat, DIOR
Jacket, jumpsuit, trousers, Dior Tote bag and jewellery, DIOR
100
Dress, bodysuit, earrings and Dior Etoile shoes, DIOR
Dress, bodysuit and jewellery, DIOR
102
Bodysuit, trousers, hat, jewellery and Dior Etoile shoes, DIOR
Dress, jumpsuit, bodysuit, earring, Dior Etoile shoes, DIOR Model: Cate Underwood at The Lions | Hair: Clay Nielson at Art Department | Make-up: Robert Greene using Dior Beauty at Honey Artists | Stylist’s assistants: Kallie Biersach and Zhane Santisteban | Casting and production: Jean Jarvis at Area1202 | Shoot location: Shio Studio NYC
104
ALL ABOUT ANDROGYNY Tomboy tailoring lends a genderless edge to the season
Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson
Coat (top), FENDI | Coat, MAX MARA | Suit, HELMUT LANG at BLOOMINGDALES-DUBAI | Earrings (worn throughout), MARIA TASH
106
Bodysuit and jacket, DOLCE & GABBANA
Boilersuit and coat, STELLA MCCARTNEY
108
Top and trousers, KRISTINA FIDELSKAYA | Shirt, BRUNO CUCINELLI
Coat, SPORTMAX
110
Jumpsuit, MAX MARA
Coat, MAX MARA | Shirt, BRUNO CUCINELLI
112
Coat and trousers, DRIES VAN NOTEN | Skirt, SACAI both at BLOOMINGDALE’S-DUBAI
Coat, MAX MARA | Jacket, shirt and trousers, BRUNO CUCINELLI
114
Hat, STYLIST’S OWN | Shirt and trousers, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Coat, SPORTMAX | Model: Fernanda K at SIGNATURE ELEMENT | Hair and Make-up: Kasia at MMG Artists
116
WILD ABANDON
Dress, ACNE STUDIOS
Photographed by Chantelle Dosser Styled by Anna Klein
Jumpsuit and belt, MAX MARA
118
Jacket, shirt and shorts, LOUIS VUITTON
Top and skirt, MAISON MARGIELA | Shoes, SELF-PORTRAIT
120
Skirt and top, AZZEDINE ALAIA | Shoes, ACNE STUDIOS
Skirt and jacket, MULBERRY
122
Shirt, trousers, belt and earrings, GIVENCHY
Top, VINCE | Skirt, MATICEVSKI | Shoes, SELF-PORTRAIT
124
Jumpsuit, MAX MARA
Dress, YOHJI YAMAMOTO | Shoes, MAISON MARGIELA
126
Jacket, shirt and trousers, ACNE STUDIOS
Dress, SELF-PORTRAIT | Shoes, MAISON MARGIELA Model: Catherine Lewis @ Boss models Hair and make-up : Wiebke Reich at Gloss Photographer’s assistant : Warren Baynes Production : Gavin Schneider Productions Thanks to: The Sunshine Company
128
OBJECTIVITY The strong form of Louis Vuitton’s new-season accessories make for modern masterpieces
Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson
Spring Street bag, LOUIS VUITTON
130
Jumble Flat ankle boot, LOUIS VUITTON
Locky BB bag, LOUIS VUITTON
132
Toupie bag, LOUIS VUITTON
LV Janet ankle boot, LOUIS VUITTON
134
Mini Luggage bag, LOUIS VUITTON
Trapeze bag, LOUIS VUITTON
136
SUBSCRIBE TO MOJEH MEN MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com
Words: Natascha Hawke. Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
JEWELLERY EDIT
Première Rock Édition Noire watch, CHANEL
ROCK ‘N’ ROLLER Unveiled at last month’s Baselworld, the maison’s first watch designed exclusively for women in 1987 has been given a slick makeover. The new limited edition Première Rock Édition Noire timepiece from Chanel, of which there are only 55 available, is updated with an intense black-laquered dial, and strap interwoven with black leather to give it a more rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic. Water-resistant to 30 meters should you wish to take a swim, the new look Première also boasts a steel crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond and a high precision quartz movement. Eternally chic, this latest edition is a lifetime investment.
138
The Sandstorm collection by Alexandra Hakim
Maya Brenner’s World collection charms in 14-karat gold in the shape of Africa (left) and Saudi Arabia (above)
SANDSTORM HOME COMFORTS “The common denominator of my jewellery is that all of the pieces are made from wasted materials that have lost their function after use,” says
Keep your home close to your heart with LA-based jewellery designer
Lebanese designer and environmentalist Alexandra Hakim. “I use the
Maya Brenner’s World collection. Founded 20 years ago, Maya’s
body as a canvas to give them a new meaning both aesthetically and
focus has always been on creating elegant pieces that can be worn
conceptually, giving them the value that they deserve.” Her Sandstorm
every day. The World collection, available in silver and 14-Karat gold,
collection is created from burnt sand paper with stunning results.
presents cutesy charms in the shape of countries from Africa to Saudi
Alexandrahakim.co
Arabia. Sold as individual charms, or on a chain, they make thoughtful keepsakes for friends, family or travellers alike. Mayabrenner.com
COOL CUFFS
Ear cuff, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY
Ear cuffs, LYNN BAN at MATCHES FASHION
Ear cuff, JEMMA WYNNE at NET-A-PORTER Ear cuff, MARIA TASH at THE DUBAI MALL
Tendril necklace in white gold with diamonds and emeralds, DAVID MORRIS
140
Boyfriend Tweed watch in beige gold, CHANEL
JACQUIE AICHE
INTO THE BLUE Turquoise jewellery epitomises a summer vibe and the laid-back California-
AZZA JEWELLERY
cool pieces from Los Angeles-based Egyptian designer Jacquie Aiche are pitch-perfect. A mix of delicate and statement, her turquoise and diamond designs scream hippie luxe, perfect for stylish vaycays to Mykonos, Ibiza
5 MINUTES WITH... AZZA AL-HUJAIRI The Bahraini jewellery designer tells MOJEH why it’s important
and Bodrum this summer. Jacquieaiche.com
her designs reflect her culture and preserve the ancient traditions used in jewellery making.
How did you become a jewellery designer? I used to be a lawyer. I worked at a law firm and I had this itch to get creative and that’s when I got into jewellery design. I always knew I wanted to do something connected to art and art history. What are your pieces made with? The pieces are 18-karat gold with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. I have a collection of stories that I tell through jewellery. I like to preserve the history of the region by documenting it [in the pieces] and creating things. I document the techniques that used to be very popular in the ’50s and ’60s, however they Turquoise and opal ring, JACQUIE AICHE
Diamond and turquoise charm, JAQUIE AICHE
are no longer made that way because of advancements in technology. Describe the aesthetic of your ready-to-wear line. It’s full of
Words: Natascha Hawke. Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
everyday pieces. They’re not overpowered with symbols. There are a lot of necklaces that become chokers. There’s titanium-coated flowers for the earrings– they’re really easy to wear. Everything is created so that they can be stacked and made part of your personality – I believe Necklace, JACQUIE AICHE
there’s a very fine line between jewellery and fashion now. When you buy pieces for your showroom what do you look for? I want to keep my personality in the pieces. When I select other brands for my showroom, they need to represent me, but they’re all completely
SAVE THE DATE: L’ECOLE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
different. The biggest part of the balance is that it can cater to anyone. When it comes to designing the collection, my personality has changed a lot since I started it.
L’Ecole Van Cleef & Arpels opens its doors to the public until April 13 with an informative new program of events for local
Would you take the ethical approach to jewellery? That is something that we’re looking into. I’ve been manufacturing everything in Bahrain,
jewellery lovers. Takins place at Hai d3 in the Dubai Design
so when we expand we will invest heavily in new equipment and new
District register for exclusive talks, workshops and movie nights.
machinery. We will then make sure everything is organic.
Me.lecolevancleefarpels.com
Azza Jewellery is available in the Azza Showroom at La Fontaine Centre of Contemporary Art in Bahrain.
142
SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE
STYLE NOTE Take inspiration from The Girl with the Pearl Earring for weddings, summer parties or paired with your twinset.
Dior Grand Bal Opera No.5, DIOR TIMEPIECES
OPERATIC INSPIRATION Dior has unveiled ten new timepieces inspired by the opulent world of the opera. The Dior Grand Bal Opera timepieces have a brand new square case designed to mimic the baroque architecture of the Parisian opera in all its grandiose glory. The Dior Grand Bal Opera No.5 is finished in a
Positano earrings, JENNIFER BEHR at MODA OPERANDI
pink gold case with baguette-cut diamonds with pink-gold and white-gold beads, engraved dial and black satin strap. Trés jolie.
Legacy Machine FlyingT watch, MB&F
Fluid Double Pearl cuff, MIZUKI at MODA OPERANDI
Pearl earrings, RANJANA KHAN at MODA OPERANDI
FEMALE FIRST MB&F unveils the Legacy Machine FlyingT, its first timepiece dedicated to women. Available in three editions all in white gold and set brilliant- or baguette-cut diamonds housed in a round case and convex dome. MB&F can be found at M.A.D Gallery in Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall.
Venus Diamant earrings, SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE at MODA OPERANDI
Oyster Perpetual Lady Datejust in yellow gold, ROLEX
144
Marguerite Auto in yellow gold, CHRISTOPHE CLARET at AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS
My Dior Cannage bracelet, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY | Mini D De Satine watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES
146
Dragon Serpenti necklace, BVLGARI
Bolero watch in yellow gold, CHAUMET
148
Lionne Oriental in yellow gold, CLAUDE MEYLAN at AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS
Bone Cuff in yellow gold, Elsa Peretti for TIFFANY & CO.
150
MOJEH JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Letitia Gasser (left) and Lina Kobeissi, founders of LX2
MOJEH sits down with the women shaping the Middle East jewellery industry to find out how they are carving a place for women, in what was once one of the most male-dominated industries of our time
Egyptian, founders of LX2 Fine Jewellery
The term ‘giving back’ is not one that springs to mind when we think of jewellery. But in today’s world, where many fashion and luxury brands are starting to heed the importance of ethical manufacturing, it makes all the difference to consumers when faced with the choice to buy from a certain label. Enter LX2, a new line of contemporary fine jewellery that is not only making modern, beautiful pieces, but also investing in the communities they take inspiration from. “Today the market and consumers are different. Our generation values transparency, authenticity, and independent brands that have a voice and a purpose,” says Letititia Gasser, one half of the duo behind Cairo-based LX2. “The new generation is not only interested in the big design houses anymore; they want to own something that they can relate to, that speaks to them and has a story.” The LX2 story started 10 years ago, when Letitia, 32, met Lina Kobeissi, 33, through a mutual friend in Paris and began
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: Bilo Hussein
THE F FACTOR
LETITIA GASSER & LINA KOBEISSI
“
Women in the Middle East are finally getting the international representation they need. Letitia Gasser a friendship based on shared interests and passions, which blossomed into a business. Opting to start a brand from scratch was a bold move from Lina, an architect, and Letitia, who had worked in the beauty and luxury industry for years. The move saw the duo take the risk of being “self-funded and independent, the road less paved,” as Lina puts it, a journey that she speaks about with pure optimism. “We see a lot of opportunity in going out on our own. We are experiencing trial-and-error, and getting to know the ins and outs of the industry. Finding the right team, suppliers and craftsmen to translate our vision, expanding to reach the right audience and staying on the lookout constantly for what’s new in terms of design and communication trends are some of our most exciting challenges.” It’s refreshing to see strong women with such a strong vision, something the Middle East has seen a surge of in recent years, as talented females slowly take over the creative industry – one that in past generations was more male dominated. “Women in the Middle East are finally getting the international representation they need,” says Letitia. “It’s not like the talent hasn’t been around. These women and generations before them have always had as much creativity and strength – only recently have they had an open platform to express themselves freely, and be as acknowledged and taken seriously as they are now.” With a workshop based out of Cairo, LX2 draws its inspiration from cities of the world, their hidden cultures, history and art all influencing the final designs. “There’s always something special about the city we choose. We research, document, take lots of pictures and really discuss what it was that left an impression on us, and we build on that slowly but surely,” Letitia says of the creative process. “We truly want to create stories and experiences, not just jewellery, that we share with people through design. We believe that this is what sets us apart. LX2 is actually very personal, every piece and city has a meaning, a cause and a message to convey.” Right from the moment they set out on their own, Letitia and Lina’s objective has been clear and steady: to create pieces for strong women that wish to build, strengthen and give back to the wider community. And give back they do, dedicating pieces from every collection to supporting an annual cause. Proceeds from the Braille line, for example, are donated to The Helm Foundation, an Egyptian NGO that helps people with visual impairments and disabilities. “The subject of vision and loss of vision is very dear to us, and this was the perfect way to spread a beautiful message, while giving people the chance to personalise their pieces,” says Lina. Available through Lx2studio.com
Berlin Lights emerald pavé necklace, LX2
Diamond Neon Stud Pole ring, LX2
Berlin Lights Black Neon Pole earrings, LX2
152
GaĂŤlle u-turned a career in economics to launch her jewellery line
GAËLLE KHOURI
Words: Meeran Mekkaoui. Photography: Borna Ahadi
Lebanese, founder of Gaëlle Khouri
Meet Gaëlle Khouri, the Lebanese independent jewellery designer who is currently high on our list of ones-towatch. Gaëlle, 33, was born into a family of academics and, unsurprisingly, found herself following in their footsteps. She moved to New York when she was 20 to study Economics at NYU. But it wasn’t long before Gaëlle found herself battling with a burning desire to follow a more creative path, which felt far more natural to her. “The definition of success in the family and in Lebanon is limited to a few fields. I think I was passively led towards that,” she explains. “When I was in New York, I grew up with the energy of the city, and I think it gave me the confidence and the maturity to know what I want. And it also gave me the guts to actually say ‘this is what I want.’” After seizing the chance to gain work experience with some of fashion’s most prestigious names, including Oscar de la Renta in New York and Elie Saab in Beirut, Gaëlle found her confidence and the vision that would lead her future. Before deciding to launch her eponymous jewellery label in 2015, Gaëlle returned to the classroom in Lebanon, where she honed her skills in jewellery design, learning from talented Armenian craftsmen. But the journey wasn’t easy – in part due to her being the only female force driving her business. “The road was extremely hard, really. Every aspect of it,” she says. “I work with only men. It’s been extremely hard to deal with them, to gain their trust and to make them respect you. I really had to face it like a man.” Pushing through these challenges and ensuring her voice was heard, the Gaëlle Khouri label was born. Her stunning pieces are individual works of art, each a magnifying glass into Gaëlle’s own fascination with philosophy and nature. “The creative process for me is very much linked to my analysis and my inner understanding of life and of thoughts. I connect the designs with how I see the world,” she explains. The intriguing jewellery, often one-of-a-kind and crafted in intricate 3D forms, appeals to women with a taste for the unique. Available to order via her Instagram account @gaellekhourijewellery, her unusual approach also landed her a contract with luxury e-tailer Net-a-Porter. “Launching with Net-aPorter brought me one step closer,” she says. In a field dominated by generations of male jewellery designers, Gaëlle broke the mould, but never thought of herself as less than their counterpart. “For me, I’ve always felt equal,” she says. “Nowadays you look around and you see women are getting out there. They’re becoming more independent and taking the entrepreneurial route. It’s good, and it’s very encouraging.” While the jewellery industry is currently dominated by legacy players, Gaëlle’s vision is clear and focused; she’s on track to seeing her brand become a name synonymous with the finest elevated contemporary jewellery.
Spider cuff, GAËLLE KHOURI
Self-Portrait earrings, GAËLLE KHOURI
Arche earring, GAËLLE KHOURI
154
Falcon bracelet, DAMAS
Asil is the first ever female head of Damas
ASIL ATTAR Iraqi, CEO of Damas Jewellery
As the first woman to oversee the storied house of Damas Jewellery, it is appropriate to say that Asil Attar has managed a feat unseen in the century since the luxury brand was founded. “I am the first female CEO and that’s not something to be taken lightly,” says Asil on her new role as the head of Damas. “In the course of over 100 years, this is a business that has been male dominated, in an industry that is also male dominated. It’s a privilege to have such a seat, and to lead a business into a new era.” And that is what she plans on doing during her tenure: to take an esteemed house, with its revered heritage, into the future. “The biggest, most important thing about Damas is the heritage we have. The company was born
in 1907, one of the only in the region’s fine jewellery business that is homegrown, and with a 100-year heritage,” she explains. “That’s the most powerful thing we own – the DNA, tradition and history behind us.” With a career in jewellery that began some 25 years ago, the Iraqi businesswoman was also appointed as the first female CEO at her previous company. Her professional roles, like many other successful females of our time, have given her the desire to inspire other women. “Through hard work, you can achieve anything,” Asil says. “I think in general there are fewer female CEOs globally, and I think historically that’s how it has always been. It’s wonderful that women like me, who are empowered in these roles, hopefully inspire others to work hard and have ambition.” Asil says all of her leading appointments have been meritbased, secured due to her “expertise, skill set, know-how and knowledge”, which are all qualities she believes carve our place within our chosen industry, as well as the world. “When I coach women or talk about female empowerment, it’s about excellence, it’s about being the best you can be; that’s how you get to the positions you want to get to,” Asil explains on the journey to the top. “It’s not about gender diversity. I wish women fought more, continued to excel, and kept at it so that they do. The world is what you make it. The opportunities are there, but you have to place yourself within them.” And she does see the future holding just that for women – a world where the more powerful of them head up organisations and businesses in top leadership roles. Asil’s enthusiasm and passion on the matter of female empowerment is infectious, and her belief that women
“
The world is what you make it. The opportunities are there, but you have to place yourself within them.
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: Borna Ahadi
Asil Attar
can achieve so much, does not waver. “I think businesses are definitely understanding the power of women in leadership roles, especially because we come with a fantastic extra skill set,” she offers. “We multitask; we have empathy. And empathy is incredibly important.” Asil’s predictions for the future sees women “taking over the world”, as more and more of the new generation of businesses are placing them in top-tier positions, within both privately-owned companies and large organisations. In her role as the head of Damas, Asil has a very strong strategy and vision across multiple channels. One of those is to “take this business, with a strong heritage, into the future”. A future she believes is built around women’s empowerment, of course. “Speaking directly to our female customers and female audience is so important: how we speak to them and what tone of voice we carry,” explains Asil. “Because this is who we are providing our beautiful products for.” Over the next 18 months, Damas will unfold initiatives that are all centered around female empowerment, which is as much down to industry trends as Asil’s own beliefs. “We also have to look at bringing in innovation and technology, as well as the tools to make us more relevant and immediately available for the younger generation – who are taking leaps and bounds in every industry,” says Asil of her plans for the brand. “I want to maintain our heritage, but of course, innovate and bring newness.” Asil also counts herself among Damas’ biggest female fans, although she struggles to pick a favourite collection or piece. “When you are in jewellery, trying to locate the one thing that you like is very difficult. I love my rocks, and I love very big rocks, so Damas’ own line, Sama, is a favourite of mine – for the quality and how its synonymous with that sense of luxury and refinement,” she tells us. “I also adore Farfasha, which is a lot younger and trendier, and that’s what makes us unique. That we can speak to an older audience, as well as a much younger, cooler one.” And that is perhaps what makes Asil the perfect match for such a history-rich house, a woman whose passion for jewellery has put her where she belongs – the top of a luxury company, with a product she is obsessed with.
Sama collection Eternal Sunshine earrings, DAMAS
156
Allegra Toi & Moi earrings, DE GRISOGONO
CÉLINE ASSIMON French, CEO of de Grisogono
Jewellery can be a powerful thing for a woman. Not least because certain pieces can hold within them the power of our matrilineal stories. For Céline Assimon, the jewellery box was the way she got to know her mother and her grandmother. “My mother has an incredible and unique sense of style and during my childhood, I used to always find her putting the finishing touches of her silhouette with a piece of jewellery: her sautoir made of pearls, her brooches,” she recalls. “To this day, she still mixes accessories and fine pieces, which I think is a very contemporary approach to styling.” “A jewellery box is often enchanted,” she continues. “One can know about each milestone in life by going through pieces of
jewellery. As a little girl, I used to sneak into my grandmother’s jewellery drawers, and ask her to tell me more about each of her treasures. She would patiently share her life story.” Of course, jewellery can reveal not only the heritage of the wearer, but the story of the person that crafted it. “Watching artisans patiently carve, mould and polish has brought me utmost joy,” says Céline. “It is magical to me to watch their hands at work. They master such an ancestral savoir-faire, give shape to some of the most precious stones in the world.” It’s this combination of craftsmanship and sentimentality that first attracted her to the jewellery business. “This is a very special industry; it combines precious materials, miracles of nature, the gift of creativity and the painstakingly intricate art of crafting jewellery,” she explains. “Some of my favourite moments to date at de Grisogono are with our gemologist and jewellers, watching them look for the perfect stone for a design and carving the wax model of a new creation. It is mesmerising and at the same time inspiring – it makes me want to ensure that it is chosen, worn and loved as it transfers its owners’ silhouette, night and day.” Céline joined the Swiss luxury jeweller as their first female CEO in December 2018, “a dream job and an achievement I’m extremely proud of,” she says, after stints at both Piaget and Louis Vuitton. “It has always been pretty clear to me that I was going to dwell in jewellery and watches,” she explains. “I never thought of a plan B. While I was in business school in France, I must have written to everyone in this industry. I kept a list – which I recently stumbled across while clearing out a cabinet. It made me smile. I was – and still am – so determined to find my way in this world.” Last year, de Grisogono celebrated its 25th anniversary, but despite its heritage, Céline says it’s a brand that’s very much looking to the future. “De Grisogono is a young and vibrant maison, contemporary to the men and women who connect with its values and designs,” she explains. “I am very honoured
Words: Kate Wills
Allegra Classic necklace, DE GRISOGONO
to have been chosen to lead the brand onto the next chapter. My ambition is to keep building on the foundations of the maison. High jewellery was, and always will be, at the heart of the brand but today’s customers also want more versatile pieces – pieces which can accompany them from day to night, from breakfast to the boardroom and then on to cocktails. My approach is to put the client at the centre of the strategy and keep pushing boundaries in terms of product design.” It’s a forward-thinking approach which chimes with changes in the industry. “I think watches and jewellery is now more inclusive and feels more ready to be challenged,” she says. “Technology and evolutions in lifestyles push the industry to think and act differently.” But in the age of Insta-trends, Céline says that fine jewellery retains an appeal quite apart from the rest of the fashion industry. “There is an emotional component and an everlasting beauty that keeps jewellery and watches timeless and fresh,” she says. “To create them one needs to have a passion for the exquisite, this emotion is transmitted through the designs, the attention to detail of the craftsman, and finally in the emotional connection of the person who wears the piece. Beauty is timeless.” Céline’s favourite de Grisogono piece is the Ventaglio earrings in black and white diamonds. “I love their appeal for generous and sensual volumes and curves,” she says. “Ventaglio are part of the de Grisogono creations: sculptures made of audacious architectural aesthetics, vividly expressing the “chiaroscuro” signature of the maison.” But the most treasured item in Céline’s jewellery box is a very different type of earring. “I had some turquoise and gold earrings my mother gave me after my ears were pierced,” she says. “I lost one years later in the Mediterranean; so now, to remember this unique piece in my life, I keep the other as a lucky token.” When we imbue our jewellery with a story, they become a precious talisman to take on the journey, passed down to the next generation.
Boule earrings, DE GRISOGONO
Vortice earrings, ring and bracelet, DE GRISOGONO
158
N I G H T TA L E S Van Cleef & Arpels unveils its latest high jewellery triumph in the Treasure of Rubies collection Photographed by Greg Adamski Styled by Natascha Hawke
Neha earrings with detachable pendants in pink gold, white gold, rubies, white cultured pearls and diamonds | Priya transformable long necklace in pink gold, one oval-cut carved ruby of 25.23 carats (Burma), 214 ruby beads for 123.09 carats (Burma), pink sapphires, white cultured pearls, and diamonds | Ravinala ring in pink gold, white gold, one oval-cut ruby of 3.06 carats (Burma), rubies, diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
160
Unisson earrings with detachable pendants in white gold, pink gold, one pear-shaped ruby of 5.63 carats (Mozambique), one pear-shaped DVVS2 diamond of 3.01 carats, rubies and diamonds | Printemps indien transformable necklace in white gold, pink gold, 31 cushion-cut and oval-cut rubies for 51.13 carats (Burma), mauve sapphires, emeralds and diamonds | RenĂŠe bracelet in white gold, pink gold, nine oval-cut and cushion-cut rubies for 10.32 carats (Burma), diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Zip Antique Padma necklace transformable into a bracelet in white gold, pink gold, 14 round rubies for 15.70 carats (Mozambique), rubies, white cultured pearls and diamonds | Éventail souverain bracelet in white gold, pink gold, 13 oval-cut and cushion-cut rubies for 35.05 carats (Mozambique), rubies, diamonds | Boucles de rubis ring in white gold, red gold, Traditional Mystery Set rubies, one emerald-cut DFL type 2A diamond of 6.70 carats, diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
162
Duo de diamants earrings with detachable pendants in white gold, two pear-shaped DIF type 2A diamonds of 20.37 and 21.26 carats, rubies, diamonds | Echo cĂŠleste necklace with detachable pendant in white gold, pink gold, one pear-shaped DIF type 2A diamond of 5.27 carats, one cushion-cut ruby of 3.26 carats (Burma), diamonds | Maha ring in white gold, pink gold, one pear-shaped DFL type 2A diamond of 8.03 carats, rubies and diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Folie des prĂŠs earrings in white gold, pink gold, rubies, diamonds | Folie des prĂŠs bracelet in white gold, pink gold, rubies, diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
164
Folie des prĂŠs earrings in white gold, pink gold, rubies and diamonds | Folie des prĂŠs necklace in white gold, pink gold, rubies and diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
ON FIRE
Unveiled during an exclusive event in Bangkok last month, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Treasure of Rubies collection is a powerful homage to the king of gems
Model: Sasha Zotova at Art Factory Studio. Hair and Make-up: Ania Poniatowska at MMG. Words: Natascha Hawke
T
he Treasure of Rubies collection from Van Cleef & Arpels was dramatically unveiled last month during an exclusive two-day event in Bangkok, in the presence of editors from around the world who flew in as guests of the French jewellery maison. Revealed during a special dinner prepared by Michelin-star chef Emmanuelle Renaut, held at Bangkok’s historic Wanglee Mansion on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 60-piece collection made its debut on models who navigated the venue draped in the priceless jewels, to gasps of appreciation. The most recent thematic collection unveiled by the maison to be inspired by a single stone – following 2016’s magnificent Émeraude en majesté collection showcasing around 1,400 carats of emeralds – the Treasure of Rubies collection boasts a staggering 3,000 carats of certified rubies sourced from around the world, from locations such as India, Burma and Mozambique among others, collected over several years. Each creation is a testimony to the maison’s savoir-faire excellence, with signature design elements apparent throughout in transformable pieces, asymmetry and the Mystery Set technique that are ingrained in Van Cleef & Arpels’ DNA. Standout pieces such as the Rubis Imperial necklace can be worn in three different ways, while the Elixir de Rubis offers a staggering eight transformations – both reflections of the maison’s jewellery-making expertise. Every piece is unique in colour, which differs depending on the ruby’s source (darker from Mozambique, lighter from Burma), and the designs all inspired by different eras, places and materials. It is impossible to describe in words, or to illustrate through a photograph, the true beauty of this magnificent collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Watch the Treasure of Rubies collection come to life in our exclusive video on MOJEH.com from April 1
Unisson earrings with detachable pendants in white gold, pink gold with rubies, diamonds and one pear-shaped ruby of 5.63 carats (Mozambique), one pear-shaped DVVS2 diamond of 3.01 carats, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Berunda bracelet in pink gold, rubies and diamonds with one cushion-cut ruby of 3.23 carats and one cushion-cut DIF diamond of 3.99 carats, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Soleil levant ring in white gold, pink gold with diamonds and one cabochon-cut ruby of 10.53 carats, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
166
MOJEH BEAUTY
DESERT ROSE
Paying homage to the Middle East, Louis Vuitton’s latest fragrance explores the relationship between two of the region’s most intoxicating ingredients
Photographey: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
I
have always been amazed by the personality of the perfumes that Arab women wear. They’re always layering and mixing scents to create a unique signature, and that’s what I tried to capture, all those different tones,” Jacques Cavallier Belletrud the master perfumer behind Louis Vuitton’s latest fragrance Les Sables Roses, explains. Inspired by the olfactory heritage of the Middle East, and a history of perfume that dates back thousands of years, he set out to capture in a bottle, the very essence of Arabia. A challenging quest, it would lead him to the legendary ingredients rose and oud, a hot-and-cold composition inspired by the rhythm of the desert, and the makings of Louis Vuitton’s latest creation. “Roses were born in Arabia, they’ve always been a part of the culture of the Middle East. I’ve constantly found in them a similarity to the female character: mild yet spicy, fruity and definitely full of contrast,” he explains. “It was a long journey making this new fragrance, one that started some 25 years ago, when nobody was interested in working in this area. I came to the region and met a lot of sheikhs in Saudi Arabia who specialise in oud production. They were sort of masters to me, teaching me everything I needed to learn about oud.” Dynamic and vibrant, Les Sables Roses sees a pure partnership emerge between the rose’s sensual freshness and oud’s captivating depth, a middle ground where volume and warmth meet, and opposites reconcile to mutually elevate one another. “I remember as a young boy, walking down the Croisette in Cannes and smelling this mesmerising scent as these beautiful Arab women walked past. I found it so mysterious, sensual and feminine,” says Jacques. And that is exactly what he tried to capture, an expression of very delicate chic sensuality, that on the skin, would create something very seductive. Available April 18 at Louis Vuitton, The Dubai Mall
Louis Vuitton’s Les Sables Roses
168
MOJEH BEAUTY
BEAUTY NEWS From new make-up launches to spring skin must-haves, here’s the best that beauty has to offer this month
1. The Icon Palette, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 2. Liquid Lip Velvet in Peach, BURBERRY BEAUTY at NET-A-PORTER | 3. Le Marc Liquid Lip Crayon in Send Nudes, MARC JACOBS BEAUTY
CHARLOTTE TILBURY
WISH LIST BEAUTY They say they are the windows to
2
the soul, and this season Charlotte Tilbury is making a strong case for eyes that electrify. The centrepiece of her new Icons Collection includes
1
a palette of 12 intensely-pigmented megawatt accents, that’ll add a hint of sparkle to take your look from day to night. Prefer something a little more subtle? A fresh, nude lip will hypnotise without overpowering. Marc Jacobs’ Beauty Liquid Lip Crayon offers oneswipe colour in the form of a creamy crayon, that offers as much impact as any liquid lipstick, while Burberry Beauty’s Liquid Lip Velvet promises
3
eight-hour staying power and only minimal touch-ups throughout the day.
CHANEL GOES EAST Inspired by Japan and South Korea, Chanel brings captivating vibrations of colour, texture and light to its S/S19 collection. From the sultry pinky beige of Le Vernis, a nail polish inspired by the ever-poetic colour of contemporary East Asia, to the sophisticated textures of the Rouge Allure liquid powders that melt into the skin, you’ll discover the first flush of spring in a whole new light. 1. Ombre Première Crème in 840 Patine Bronze | 2. Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in 964 Bittersweet | 3. Le Vernis in 646 Bleached Mauve
1
PRETTY IN PINK Looking for that no-fuss lip? A pigmented balm is the way to go this season. And with a saucy strapline – ‘Be Dior. Be Pink’ – and Cara Delevingne as its campaign face, the new Dior Addict Stellar Shine comes packing plenty of tinted attitude. The collection, conceived by creative and image director for Dior make-up, Peter Philips, boasts a mix of 24 luminous shades, with four
2
hero hues of pink at its heart. Three different shine finishes, and a 24-hour hydration formula infused with aloe vera, make this line of next-gen lipsticks impossibly addictive.
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: GoRunway.com
3
5 MINUTES WITH... PAOLO BRAGUZZI The CEO of cult Italian beauty brand Davines explains why beauty and sustainability go hand-in-hand
Solu Shampoo and NouNou Hair Mask, DAVINES at PASTELS SALON
What is Davines’ beauty ideal? It is the perfect balance between ‘beautiful’ and ‘good’, and what we call ‘sustainable beauty’. Beauty for us has not just an aesthetic value, it has a deeper meaning. It is respect for yourself, the people around you, the environment and the world in which we live and work. How do you achieve sustainable beauty? We feel responsible for the way we impact the world and the community GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
around us, so we try to minimise our impact on the environment by using renewable sources, recyclable and C⁰2 neutral packaging, sustainable formulations and natural ingredients, enhanced with cutting-edge cosmetic technologies and an artisan spirit. You only use natural
BARE NECESSITIES
ingredients. Why is that? It is at the cornerstone of our ethos. We
Beauty is gravitating towards skin that looks natural and healthy, seconded by this season’s catwalk beauty, which supported an understated glow. Whether you need to fight pigmentation, fade out freckles or tackle age spots – the latest brightening creams can do all that and more. These lightening wonders also come packed with a cocktail of hydrators, promising an 360-experience for skin that is radiant, fresh and intensely moisturised.
1
have a collection of guidelines for sustainability that the Davines Research Laboratories strive to maintain in the creation of highlyeffective and innovative formulas. Who have you partnered with? There’s A Tree Of You, an e-game where people create a virtual tree and name it to express their identity or ideals; Intercoiffure Mondial’s Education for Life programme, for young students that do not have the resources necessary to pursue the hairdressing path; and the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity, which protects selected places in order to safeguard the Earth’s biodiversity. Any tips on how to stay eco-
2 1. Autocorrect Brightening and Depuffing Eye Contour Cream, SUNDAY RILEY at NET-A-PORTER | 2. White Brilliance Porcelain Serum, MURAD at OUNASS | 3. Blanc Divin Brightening & Beautifying Tone-Up Cream, GIVENCHY
3
friendly with our beauty routine? Buying items made to last is one of the simplest ways of cutting down on waste and saving the energy required to dispose of them. Use make-up brushes and hairbrushes made from recycled or sustainable materials, like bamboo. All Davines products include 100 per cent natural ingredients
170
Photographed by Paul Farnham
SUBSCRIBE TO MOJEH MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com
ECO WA R R I O R S
The women changing the beauty game, one eco-friendly step at a time
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: Borna Ahadi
172
Janine at Dubai concept store Comptoir 102, where Muse & Heroine’s clean beauty products are stocked
JANINE KNIZIA German, founder of Muse & Heroine As global demand for a cleaner, healthier and eco-conscious way of living grows, the beauty industry has slowly transformed, in order to satisfy the appetite of its sustainability-savvy consumers. “I think it happened because of the food revolution: we realised how we nourish our body is very important,” says Janine Knizia, founder of Muse & Heroine, a ‘clean’ beauty agency. “We are spending so much money on organic healthy food, detoxes and spa retreats that it’s very natural that the next step would be what we put on our skin.” The German-born, Milan-based entrepreneur left behind 15 years in the fashion industry to start up her concept of bringing clean beauty products from all over the world to Europe and the Middle East. Her mission, to start a green revolution in a region that is slowly taking interest in what is now a billion-dollar industry. “I spent a lot of time in Los Angeles, and when I came back home to Europe I could never find all the amazing toxic-free and environmentally-friendly products I was using back on the East Coast,” she explains as to why she decided to start her own business. “I realised that it couldn’t go on this way; that something had to change.” With the name for her concept already in mind, Janine left for New York, where she studied to become a certified holistic health coach, something she felt was necessary as she “didn’t want to just speak about sustainable beauty products, but be able to educate and teach people how to treat themselves every day.” And she would soon lead Muse & Heroine to be just that, an educational platform where she could communicate to others everything they did not know, and needed to, about ‘clean’ beauty. “I had this vision, where I wanted to bring these amazing ecofriendly and vegan brands here. But then slowly I understood that it’s not only about bringing the brands here, it’s a 360-degree job that involves everything from events, to going to stores, to making speeches about sustainability in beauty.” And all the travelling to share this knowledge has paid off – Muse & Heroine now holds some of the world’s top pioneering clean beauty brands, covering a region that stems from the heart of Europe, all the way to the Middle East. Not a small feat, especially for a woman who had to spend months in LA trying to convince niche green brands to trust her to take their products outside of the US – something she fought hard for. Janine’s business success demonstrates just how much she has achieved in an industry she once knew very little of. “I’ve met so many incredible, powerful and inspiring women that, just for that, I’m so happy I started Muse & Heroine,” she says. “The clean beauty business is like a community, everyone knows everyone and they all support each other – it’s unbelievable.” It is also an industry that is overwhelmed with beauty products, from toxic-free to vegan and organic, making it difficult for some to decide upon what to invest in. “The brands that I choose to represent have to be 100 per cent clean. Meaning no harmful
Le Prunier’s Plum Beauty Oil
Activist Raw Manuka Honey
ingredients that can damage your body, skin or bloodstream,” explains Janine on her cherry-picked selection. “I try and test every single product on myself. It’s a sort of a personal guarantee that I give to clients.” Products that have made it into her own beauty routine include Julisis Contour Hydra Serum and Le Prunier’s award-winning Plum Beauty Oil. “The oil has changed my life! They’ve been using it in Japan and Korea for over 600 years, and its effects are eight times more efficient than argan oil,” she tells us. And change is something high on Janine’s agenda, with her plan for the future of clean beauty even more revolutionary than her agency. “I want to build an online platform for our side of the world that covers the best beauty spas, healthy food places and travel escapes, an online store and booking service – a one-stop-shop for all beauty needs.”
174
TAYLOR & JENNY FRANKEL Canadian, co-founders of Nudestix When it comes to beauty, sometimes it can get downright overwhelming trying to find the right products for our skin. An industry made up of an untraceable amount of formulas and ingredients to achieve the best version of our complexion, beauty does not have a good record when it comes to sustainability – in part due to excess packaging. But thankfully, there are some brands making it their mission to reduce our eco worries. Nudestix is a Canadian-born make-up brand offering a range of multi-functional products for the eyes, lips and face, that not only make looking good, naturally, very easy, but the brand’s sustainable approach promises to leave us feeling good about our beauty choices, too. “All of our products come in a beautiful black matte tin,” explains 22-year-old Taylor Frankel, one of the founders of Nudestix. “We created our tins because we wanted no packaging to be thrown away. Our best-selling products are our pencils, and they are all created by sustainable forestry.” Instead of using a twist-up pencil, each tin comes complete with a sharpener because, Taylor explains, “once you sharpen your pencils all the way down, there’s less to throw away. It becomes this really eco-friendly stick, and you’re not ruining the environment either.” The eight-year-old make-up brand, which officially launched in the Middle East in 2018 and is available at Sephora, is the family success story of mother Jenny, and her two daughters, Taylor and Ally. Captivated by a slew of offerings that promised skin a natural finish, the trio wanted to create a range that was authentic, appealing and approachable. “My sister [Ally] and I, wanted beauty that was real, easy, fast and effortless,” says Taylor. “We felt that the beauty industry had amazing artistry brands and skincare brands but, there was a missing piece for a beauty brand that was speaking to the modern-day woman.” With her daughters’ desires at the forefront of her mind, mum Jenny saw a business opportunity. While she experienced her own Eat, Pray, Love moment after leaving her post as a product developer for MAC Cosmetics, Jenny, now 47, was determined to create a revolutionary story that was “inspired by Ally and Taylor”. With a common goal of creating makeup that enhanced natural features, the trio got to work. Drawing on her background in chemical engineering, Jenny positioned the business to become one of today’s top ‘clean’ beauty brands. “All of our products are cruelty-free. Anything that is manufactured as of 2019 is 100 percent vegan,” assures Jenny. “When we developed Nudestix, it was never an option that we wouldn’t have cruelty-free products. When we talk about luxury formulations, it’s not just the way it feels and goes on to the skin, but also which ingredients are in the products.” The brand has resonated not only with consumers across
Nudestix Magnetic Nude Glimmers at Sephora
Nudestix Nudies Matte Blush at Sephora
the globe, but also with a handful of celebrity heavyweights. Recently, the Nudestix women collaborated with legendary make-up artist, Mary Phillips, who created her own Nudies Matte bronze shade, Sunkissed. “Mary loves real skin, and the shade was really inspired by her go-to make-up look for her clients, including Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid,” Taylor explains. And when it comes to a superstar breaking the norm in beauty, both Jenny and Taylor single out Cara Delevingne. “If there’s one celebrity we would love to see wear our products, it would have to be Cara. She’s been our inspiration since we launched Nudestix and she’s a groundbreaking woman, who is challenging the norms of fashion and beauty,” says Taylor. “When Instagram launched in 2011, Cara was keeping things so real and authentic. She was a role model and she may not have realised the impact she had,” Jenny concludes.
Words: Meeran Mekkaoui. Photography: Borna Ahadi
Taylor (left) and her mother Jenny founded Nudestix, along with sister Ally
176
TALKING POINT
THE POWER OF THE PALETTE As Virgin Atlantic grants female cabin crew the right to work minus make-up, we question the politics of appearance and the personal and social implications that come with our cosmetics kit
S
ettling into her bed, a passenger attracts a few raised eyebrows as she strokes on a Korean sheet mask and pops a melatonin tablet before the long haul from London to Sydney ensues. In parallel, a female flight attendant glides past, making her final checks and mechanically smiling through her perpetually-dry lips, caked in the airline’s signature shade of crimson red. It’s no secret that aviation prizes the appearance of its employees, but last month Virgin Atlantic stepped away from the rest, announcing that its female cabin crew would no longer be required to wear make-up while on duty. Some say there’s beauty in simplicity, yet there’s nothing straightforward about our relationship with make-up, least of all in the workplace. In the Middle East, make-up is embedded in culture and traditions, rooted in its origins that date back to Ancient Egypt, while today, precious ‘me-time’ in the salon is a weekly highlight for many women throughout the world. Anyone who’s gone through a spell of adult acne will tell you about the transformative effects of concealer, for confidence as much as for the face, but for others, make-up feels like an unnecessary chore. An expectation that women should wear make-up insubordinates them, especially within what can still be categorised as a patriarchal work environment. It’s not about whether make-up is good or bad, it’s about choice, and the social, professional, and financial implications that come when this choice is taken away. Conversation surrounding gender balance and appearance is nothing new: for decades we’ve fought for our wardrobe, our flats, and even for our bobbed hair during the 1920s. Glancing back to our all-too-recent history, Pacific Southwest Airlines prescribed thigh-skimming skirts for female employees during the 1960s, which were later updated with hot pants in the 1970s. Indeed, female reductionism was once rife among the service industries. And while we might have flown a long way since the days of midcentury aviation, where weigh-ins were compulsory and marriage and pregnancy were off limits, today women continue to feel targeted by seemingly unbalanced standards. Official mandates still exist within certain industries, which Virgin Atlantic has
highlighted, but more subtly ‘unofficial requests by managers to ‘be presentable’ do the same job, and cut deep. Is make-up an enduring symbol of the archaic belief that women should be beautiful above all else? “I am very much obligated to wear make-up in my work as a TV news presenter,” explains 30-year-old British broadcast journalist Rosanna Lockwood, who is based in Dubai. “As a female newsreader there’s still a widespread expectation that you should look ‘fully made-up’ in order to do your job. I’m not sure whether this is more to do with channel branding, viewer preferences, or just because this is the way it has always been,” she continues. It comes as no surprise that these requirements do not extend to Rosanna’s male counterparts, who arrive at work up to an hour later and are not obliged to cover the circles under their eyes or flush out their cheeks before they begin their duties. Perhaps employers should consider the true cost that this extra time incurs, which extends far beyond the price of products. “On average it takes 20 to 30 minutes to apply a full face of makeup,” says Iraninan singer-songwriter, Layla Kardan, aged 36. “Imagine if people used that time to read or exercise instead, or even just dedicated 30 minutes extra to creative thinking. Wouldn’t this lead to greater progression?” She makes a good point, but the use of make-up has become so deeply ingrained in our society that we don’t tend to question it. In contemporary culture, we’re taught that make-up is an inherent part of being female. But how has it risen to this ubiquitous status? Fashion trends come and go, but with make-up certain staples seem to endure, spanning generations and geographies – namely mascara, lipstick, blusher and foundation. On a psychological level, we can say that this assortment is designed to ‘enhance’ physical beauty, however the notion of what constitutes beauty is up for grabs. Being thin, for example, is not a universal benchmark for attractiveness, but certain physical characteristics are considered to be markers of beauty across the board, due to their associations with health and fertility. Youthfulness, facial symmetry and fresh, clear skin signify health, which can be emulated with foundation,
Photography: Carla Guler. Styling: Kelly Baldwin, for MOJEH 45
Words by Laura Beaney
Make-up’s ability to enhance beauty is something to be celebrated, but should women be judged, selected and even trusted based on wearing it?
178
Social media has taken make-up artistry to new levels, creating an even more demanding ideal for millenials
while 2010 study Facial Cosmetics and Attractiveness: Comparing Journal of Cosmetic Science, which reiterates that society’s reward the Effect Sizes of Professionally-Applied Cosmetics and Identity, for women who wear make-up. Tests revealed that women pictured published by the US National Library of Medicine claimed that wearing cosmetics were evaluated as ‘healthier’, ‘more confident’, women with red lips are generally perceived to be more attractive. and even as having ‘greater earning potential’, when compared to Chanel has conducted similar research to this avail, with the results the same female participants, minus make-up. pointing to red lipstick’s ability to have an ‘anti-ageing’ effect. Some maintain that make-up is their creative outlet, while for Barkha Beauty, a make-up line conceptualised by Barkha others it cultivates confidence. “In the Arab world, many women, as Shewakramani is based on a belief that make-up has the ability part of their faith and culture, cover their hair with the hijab, with to transform and uplift. “I suffer from eczema and very sensitive only their face visible. Wearing beautiful eye make-up presents skin,” says Barkha, aged 37. “There are days when I wake up with an opportunity to express their identity,” says Barkha. “I wear redness all over my face and a few drops of concealer makes the make-up as though it’s warpaint,” says Layla. “It helps me to get world of difference, helping me to hide the red and even out my skin into actress mode for stage performances as well as getting into tone, but more than this, it gives me a positivity and confidence.” character for photoshoots,” she continues. Perhaps we should If one goal for make-up is to inspire confidence in its wearer consider in what areas a woman might feel disempowered without then, and as Rosanna points out, this is perhaps one advantage her make-up? If it’s career, social stigma or the male gaze, then that females, have been dominating in recent decades. perhaps these are the problems we should be zoning-in on? “Quite simply, when I wake up looking a little worse for wear, It’s easy to understand why contemporary society might slip into I really appreciate having the option to brighten my complexion the trap of placing unnecessary importance on appearance given and cover ‘imperfections’ with a bit of paint,” she says. “I actually the proliferation of new media and increasingly-crisp cameras. think that most men would welcome having this option too.” “With the boom in popularity of make-up tutorial accounts on This ‘option’ is rapidly becoming platforms like Instagram, and the a reality for both genders, with the large followings amassed by cosmetics rise of male and unisex cosmetics entrepreneurs through social media, and the transgressive stigma I think that make-up has taken on a new “Personally, I believe attached to male make-up dwindling. and powerful meaning for millennial that a woman should This highlights that in some respects and post-millennial generations,” says feel whole and complete Rosanna. “It’s certainly being taken to the gender gap associated with cosmetics is narrowing. On its new heights of skill and artistry, but in her natural state, male make-up line, which includes I do worry that this is placing excessive without make-up” foundation, an eyebrow pencil and pressure on young girls to conform to Layla Kardan lip balm, Chanel states “beauty a specific Instagram beauty ideal, rather knows no gender”, while Tom Ford than embracing and celebrating their offers males the opportunity of natural features and appearance.” And women who embrace make-up are a subtle touch-up with their men’s brow definer and concealer. It does, however, feel difficult also in-line for judgement. A 2011 study sponsored by Procter to imagine a world where men ‘must’ wear make-up as a job & Gamble saw female subjects of various ages and ethnicities requirement and it’s this double-standard women are at odds with. photographed barefaced, and in three looks that researchers “If I’m not performing, I tend not to wear make-up. I just don’t put into the categories of ‘natural’, ‘professional’ and ‘glamorous’. have the time for all of that,” says Layla. “Personally, I believe that The pictures were judged by both men and women who reported a woman should feel whole and complete in her natural state, that, while women who wore the glamorous look were recognised without make-up, but I do observe that socially it’s more expected as ‘attractive’ at initial glance, over time, there may be a ‘lowering and encouraged here (in the Middle East), compared to other of trust’ in that person, which could pose a negative impact upon parts of the world.” she continues. As the singer suggests, there’s the wearer professionally. nothing unprofessional or unpolished about a make-up free face, The pressure for women to wear make-up at work shows that we but women are often called out for their outward appearance. are in the business of prioritising beauty. If we continue to go “I find it very frustrating that the majority of viewer interaction and down this route, we brush aside substance and professionalism, feedback I get on social media platforms is about my appearance, and are left simply with the surface. Ultimately, women deserve rather than my actual work,” says Rosanna. And as society assesses freedom of choice in every aspect of their lives. “As long as it the presenter’s blow-dry and brows, rather than her words, it is a choice, then using make-up can be an empowering form of becomes apparent that our preoccupation with female appearance creative expression,” says Rosanna. “It is only when the element places us in a danger zone where judgements on attractiveness of choice is removed – like when you feel you should wear makeup can flow into judgements about job performance. Supporting for the benefit of other people’s expectations – then it becomes this concern is a 2003 case study published by the International a problematic tool for defining femininity.”
180
MOJEH TRAVEL
TRAVEL EDIT
INTO THE WILD Embark on a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Tanzania to spot elephants, rhinos and chimpanzees, before relaxing in luxury in a tented camp Words by Maryanne Haggas
The camp has multiple places from which to view nature
H
ave you ever wanted a movie to become your reality? Growing up in the cold countryside of the UK, I had always wanted to slip through the TV screen and straight into an act of The Lion King, The Jungle Book or Aristocats, longing to join the adventures of Simba, Baloo and the cat crew. As a child, I remember telling myself I’d one day make this dream a reality by visiting the wilds of Africa or the jungles of South America, dreams that are becoming more in reach as the years go by. With a long weekend in the clear, we jumped at the opportunity to book flights to Tanzania, an African country known for its wildlife, beaches, fascinating culture and, of course, the Serengeti. Only five-and-ahalf hours from Dubai, Tanzania is a playground for the curious and adventurous, and as it’s home to the highest concentration of game in Africa, is one of the top spots to go on safari. With promises of wildebeest stampeding across the plains, hippos playing in the muddy rivers, giraffes roaming the grasslands and chimpanzees swinging through the treetops, we planned our stay with Singita Mara River Tented Camp, a relatively new cluster of lodges, that gives incredible insight into the real African outback. Very much positioned at the forefront of sustainable tourism, the tented camps consciously seek to eliminate the unnecessary use of energy and non-biodegradable materials in the hope that they will prevent the risk of impacting on the life around them. This was good enough for us – and one click later we were booked for a three-day getaway into the wild. It’s not the easiest place in the world to get to, but let’s be honest, the best places in life never are. After flying from Dubai to Kenya and then on to Kilimanjaro, we jumped on a small safari plane which took just shy of an hour to reach Singita Lamai. Spanning 98,000 acres of untouched wilderness, Singita Lamai is located in northern Tanzania, bordering the Maasai Mara National Reserve and ideally positioned on the renowned migratory route traversed annually by more than a million wildebeest. After just a 45-minute drive from the airstrip, we arrived at Singita Mara River Tented Camp.
Stare across the Maasai Mara from a private plunge pool
African design influences can be seen everywhere
182
Be outside, inside in Singita Mara’s elegant tented camps
Spend time between game drives relaxing on the deck
Even the bathrooms offer incredible views
Designed to provide a thrilling and intimate way to experience a classic East African safari, the permanent eco-tented camp offers luxury-appointed rooms with nothing but a canvas wall to shelter you from the spectacular endless plains outside; lush grassland, riverine forest and acacia woodlands that are criss-crossed by animals all year round. Close to the ground and off the grid, the concept and design of the camp encourages constant engagement with nature without compromising on creature comforts, giving you a true taste of life in the bush. Six tents sit on the edge of the game-rich Mara river, oozing Bohemian-African chic: think contemporary fittings alongside splashes of bright prints, maintaining the relaxed feet-up style that defines the Singita brand while providing just enough of the comfort one expects from a five-star resort. Each camp is fitted with all mod cons, as well as a private deck and plunge pool, where yoga, meditation or spa treatments can be arranged. In keeping with its eco-friendly philosophy the camp operates “off-thegrid”, relying entirely on a custom-designed solar power system for its energy, and uses recycled and natural materials wherever possible. Each stay is full board and includes twice-daily guided game drives. Views across the Maasai Mara can be enjoyed throughout the camp, from the deck of your private tent, and even through windows by the bathtub. Speaking of spa, with the help of Singita’s wellness philosophy, it is easy to reconnect to nature, revive your senses and restore body and mind. Treatments are performed either in the tranquillity of the spa therapy tent, on your private deck, or in the comfort of your suite, using Dermalogica products full of ingredients available from eco-safe sources that are not tested on animals. The food at Singita Mara River Tented Camp is outstanding and a definite highlight of the stay. Made with local produce, meal times consist of crisp salads, homemade treats, locally sourced grass-fed meats, freerange eggs and organically grown vegetables. There are Fair Trade teas and coffees, plus an impressive selection of handpicked wines stocked in Singita’s cultivated wine cellar. Tying in nicely with Singita’s laissez-faire way
The fact that it’s in the wilderness hasn’t impacted Singita Mara’s style
of life, meals are flexible on time and location. Picnics are also a romantic option, allowing you extend the morning safari with breakfast in the bush or end the day with sundowners on location. Any food preferences or intolerances will be met happily and the camp can also cater to halal, kosher, salt-, sugar-, or gluten-free diets. When it comes to game drives, the expert team are on hand to take guests out twice a day, with the additional option of a post-lunch bush walk. The sunset drives mostly take in the northern Serengeti, catching up with game as it moves towards the river to drink before nightfall, where the predators prepare to ambush the unwary. Take a front seat for the action while enjoying sundowner drinks and snacks from the tour vehicle or makeshift bush bar. The hideaway also offers star-gazing evenings in the bush, complete with hot chocolate and marshmallows by a flickering campfire. When it comes to dressing for a safari trip, they recommend blending in by wearing light-weight cotton clothes in neutral colours of brown, khaki and grey for game drives and bush walks. It is advisable to avoid white as it tends to attract bugs. No formalwear is required at any of the lodges, so packing for comfort is key, so is mosquito repellent.
Spectacular doesn’t even start to cover the Singita experience – renowned as one of the world’s best names in safari, it really does deliver on every front. Not only is the wildlife watching a world-class experience, but the sustainable ethos is remarkable. This year, Singita’s conservation efforts reached new heights as the company celebrated 15 years of success in the Singita Grumeti Reserve, Tanzania. The joint partnership between Singita and the Grumeti Fund continues to pioneer in conservation, heralding a new era of tactics geared toward reducing wildlife poaching. These include a game-changing anti-poaching task force comprising of over 180 game scouts, 18 special operations officers and a new canine unit trained in the detection of contraband. At the very core, this has transformed the Singita guest experience, facilitating a high-end hospitality offering with an incredible wilderness experience, redefining luxury as a catalyst for conservation. The profound impact of Singita’s conservation work can be seen in the transformation of the land, with one example being the four-fold increase in elephant numbers. Singita Grumeti is now home to a quarter of the total elephant population in the Serengeti, despite the reserve accounting for merely one twentieth of the region’s size. Singita.com
184
THE DESTINATION Be inspired by the latest wellness experiences, city hotels and luxury island resorts offering the very best in rest and relaxation
The picturesque private cove of The Wild Hotel's Kalafati Beach
GO WILD IN MYKONOS For those making the annual migration to the Greek island of Mykonos, an aesthetically-pleasing new residence awaits. The Wild Hotel, opening in May, is perched atop a cliffside overlooking Kalafati Beach, with stunning views across the Aegean Sea. Reassuringly boutique in size, 40 suites and villas with Insta-friendly interiors offer a place for rest and relaxation, while the infinity pool, private beach and Taverna restaurant complete the holiday vibe. Thewildhotel.com Boho chic views at The Moon Villa
FIND BALANCE IN THE BALEARICS Formentera Yoga continues to deliver its awardwinning retreats this year, with a schedule packed full of life-changing wellness experiences. Running between April and October, the retreats offer four or five nights of all-inclusive yoga tuition, detox menus and unique add-ons. This season, learn to surf on electric hydrofoils, treat yourself to a Japanese Kobido facial (a non-invasive facial massage said to be better than Botox), and try Rolfing with practioner Ossian MacDonald – a hands-on treatment that improves alignment and reduces pain. Formenterayoga.com
A Canadian cedarwood hot tub awaits you at Clinique La Prairie’s private chalet
NOW OPEN Inside the Loft Suite at The Times Square Edition
THE TIMES SQUARE EDITION Located at 701 Seventh Avenue on the corner of 47th Street, The Times Square Edition welcomes 452 stylish guest rooms, a performance venue, state-of-the-art fitness centre and dining terrace overlooking New York’s iconic Times Square.
PRIVATE ALPINE DETOX
Editionhotels.com/times-square
Renowned health enthusiasts Clinique La Prairie have introduced
The industrial chic interiors at Chapter Roma
a new concept in wellness, with the opening of a private chalet in Verbier, Switzerland. Taking bookings between April and September only, meaning guests avoid the peak ski season, the Chalet will offer privacy, discretion and exceptional service, complemented by the benefits of fresh Swiss air and Clinique La Prairie's Revitalization or Master Detox programs. The property consists of a penthouse, master suite with jacuzzi and four additional bedrooms, hammam, fitness lounge and spa, ideal for a group or family wellness retreat. Laprairie.ch Panoramic views at Vivanta Kathmandu
CHAPTER ROMA Taking bookings from April, the urban chic Hotel Chapter Roma brings a ‘fusion of gritty and glamorous style’ to the Italian capital. Designed by South African interiors hotshot Tristan Du Plessis, it’s the place to be seen this summer. Chapter-roma.com MO Wangfujing is home to some of Beijing’s largest rooms
NEW FOR NEPAL
Words: Natascha Hawke
Steeped in history, rich in culture and high on any explorers wish list, Nepal offers a world of unforgettable experiences. The gateway to this mysterious country is its capital city of Kathmandu, where every trip
MANDARIN ORIENTAL WANGFUJING
begins, and the newly-opened Vivanta Kathmandu offers travellers a gentle
Now open in Beijing, the new Mandarin Oriental Wangfujing
introduction to the city. Located in the Jhamsikhel district, 110 rooms and
houses 73 guest rooms and suites, two world-class restaurants,
three restaurants deliver spectacular views and home comforts, to send
rooftop bar, spa, fitness centre with 25-metre lap pool and views
adventurers on their way in style. Tajhotels.com
of The Forbidden City. Mandarinoriental.com
186
The sand dunes of Saadiyat offer a new perspective on UAE beaches
LOCAL ESCAPE: JUMEIRAH AT SAADIYAT ISLAND
The shabby chic interiors of Mare Mare are pitch perfect
The white sand beaches and rustic sand dunes of Saadiyat Island in Abu Dhabi offer residents of the UAE a new perspective on a weekend at the beach. More used to flawless man-made beaches, just the hint of something au naturel can give us the greatest of pleasure, and the shabby-chic feel of Saadiyat Island’s ninekilometre stretch, dotted with real, wild grass will do just that. Home to a number of luxury hotel brands, the latest to join Saadiyat’s line-up is homegrown. Opened in December 2018, the Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort offers bright and airy accommodation in a contemporary build. Think open spaces, high ceilings and marine-inspired design elements – the most breathtaking of which is a stream of blue glass jellyfish hung on the ceiling in the lobby, in front of a panoramic floor-toceiling window that looks straight out to the electric blue sea. Rooms are finished in fresh white and natural wood, each with substantial outdoor space from which to watch the spectacular sunset. But it isn’t in your room you’ll spend your time – the resort has three swimming pools, five restaurants and a natural beach lined with sunbeds and cabanas where you can while away your days in complete relaxation, waited on hand-and-foot by the attentive staff. Stare long enough at the sea and you are more than likely to spot dolphins having an equally good time. The pièce de résistance in any Middle Eastern hotel is the spa, and this resort is home to 2,700 square metres of wellness facilities: saunas, hydrotherapy pools, Moroccan hammam, a steam and salt room will work hard to send you home a newer, better version of yourself. Jumeirah.com/Abu_Dhabi/Saadiyat
Fresh, minimalist design is at the heart of the hotel
CULTURE EDIT
Siesta dreams, Heitham Adjina
Metamorphosis, Heitham Adjina
ARCHITECTURE OF BEING Iraqi-British artist Heitham Adjina brings his deep and colourful works to Dubai for his first solo exhibition in the city, on display at Showcase Gallery in Alserkal Avenue. An architect by profession, his true passion lies in creating his artworks which are an exploration of colour combinations, shapes and symbolism. Can you recall when you first became interested in painting? My childhood comes to my mind. Painting and drawing are two different things for me – I have vivid memory of drawing at the age of eight at primary school, we had a drawing class and I began to draw images from my imagination – palm trees and rivers. What are your earlist memories? I used to copy images from artists and magazines – my first memories were of me copying Van Gogh’s cypress trees and Cezanne’s gamblers, and pictures of celebrities and film stars. When did you fall in love with art? It was only when I moved to London at the age of 17 that I was really exposed to art – through exhibitions, art classes at A-level – and thereafter I decided to study architecture. During those years of studying architecture I was always very much interested in art and sculpture. Who inspires you? The emergence of Francis Bacon on the art scene, and his exhibition at the Tate Gallery. His paintings were definitely of a different content – in application, shape and subject. Beyond that, I was influenced by modern paintings – and distinctly remember Picasso’s big exhibition in Paris leaving a mark. What does the painting offer you that architecture doesn’t? Architecture is – in the reality of things – a combination of 70 per cent fact, and 30 per cent creativity. As
Words: Natascha Hawke
opposed to paintings, which are 100 per cent creativity. Architecture influences people, affects our way of life; while painting enhances the visual, emotional, and perhaps the intellectual feelings of a viewer. Your works are rich with symbolism – can you explain its importance? I believe paintings should embody elements to entice the viewer into involvement of the subject matter of the
Heitham Adjina: Architecture of being
painting itself. This does not have to be with clear images, but should be symbolic in a way, to allow
at the Showcase Gallery,
further involvement and thought creation within the viewer. Some of the elements of symbolism in
Al Serkal Avenue until May 9;
the paintings are – the window, the moon, a heart, a lightbulb – and have emotional implications.
Showcaseuae.com
188
FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON
Infinity Mirror Room – Phalli’s Field (1965), Yayoi Kusama
Travelling to Paris soon? Don’t miss the Fondation Louis Vuitton’s two simultaneous exhibitions. The Courtauld Collection: A Vision for Impressionism (until June 17) presents 110 artworks from the collection of English industrialist and patron of the arts, Samuel Courtauld, for the first time in 60 years, including works by Henro de Toulouse-Lautrec, Édouard Manet, Paul Cézanne and Paul Gauguin. Running in parallel is A Vision for Painting (until August 26) showcasing a new selection of 70 works from Fondation Louis Vuitton’s collection, including
Jane Avril à l’entrée du Moulin Rouge (1892), Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec
Yayoi Kusama, Gerhard Richter and Ettore Spalletti. Do not miss. Fondationlouisvuitton.fr
2 1
INTERIOR UPDATE Dance into the future at Sky 2.0
The contemporary designs of Tom Dixon have arrived at Moda Operandi. Shop beautifully-made pieces that will elevate
JOIN THE PARTY Bringing the infamous Beirut party scene to Dubai is Sky 2.0, a new standalone nightlife venue in the heart of Dubai Design District. The brainchild of Chafic El Khazen, CEO at Sky Management – who says his dream is to give the city’s partygoers “unforgettable evenings that turn into mornings” – the club will host Reggaeton, Afro-Latino and R‘n’B music nights, complete with dancers and performers to ramp up the electricity even more. The space was designed by French architect Michèle Sarfati who says: “We wanted the venue structure to resemble a UFO that is dropped in the desert.” If that doesn’t make you curious, nothing will. Skydubai.com
your living space. Modaoperandi.com 1. Candle holder | 2. Cushion | 3. Bowl, all TOM DIXON at MODA OPERANDI
3
TROPICAL TEA PARTY In the run up to Ramadan, attention turns to who can create the most lavish and lovely table setting. Take inspiration from Tanagra’s collection of tropical-inspired pieces, for an Iftar to remember.
Italian chef Enrico Bartolini
DINE MICHELIN IN DUBAI For a night of exceptional, MichelinPhotography: Yayoi Kusama, courtesy Yayoi Kusama Studio, Ota Fine Arts, Tokyo / Singapore and Victoria Miro, London. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec © The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery, London
star food and lots of fun, Roberto’s in DIFC is playing host to Enrico Bartolini for a series of culinary events. Highly exclusive, a limited number of guests will feast on a five-course menu cooked for them by the award-winning Italian chef. The next event will be held on Saturday April 27, starting at 7pm. Roberto’s in DIFC
+971 4 386 0066
Figurine, LLADRÓ at TANAGRA
Teapot, BERNARDAUD at TANAGRA
Teacup and saucer, BERNARDAUD at TANAGRA
The pretty pastries on offer at Shai Salon’s Fashion Afternoon Tea
SWEETS AND SHOES If you’re looking for an unashamedly girly way to spend an afternoon, the new Fashion Afternoon Tea at Shai Salon at the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach should scratch that itch. Created in collaboration with SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker shoes, the pastry chef Cyril Dupuis has expertly-designed a menu to complement SJP’s feminine footwear, which is on display for takers of the tea to peruse, while indulging in desserts. Finger sandwiches, scones and pastries in pretty colours are given a delectable twist to match the tones of the shoes. A perfect way to while away the afternoon. Fourseasons.com/dubaijb
Plate, BERNARDAUD at TANAGRA
190
MOJEH CULTURE
Dina wears top by Jil Sander, Emilia Wickstead trousers and earrings by All Things Mochi
Celebrated art consultant Dina Nasser-Khadivi is challenging regional stereotypes and contesting the once rigid structures of the art market Words by Laura Beaney
Photography: Borna Ahadi
CONNECTING THE DOTS
“
If we explore the links we have culturally, it’s apparent that we are one world. Dina Nasser-Khadivi
A
zerbaijan kept me going for five years,” says Dina Nasser-Khadivi. Underscoring the idea that, while some are inspired by objects or individuals, it’s place and space that captivate her. Transition is second nature for the 40-year-old Iranian art consultant, who knew Paris London, and New York as previous homes, and currently resides in Geneva. Her work sees her pinballing across the world. As we speak – in the lounge of her host, friend and client, surrounded by a collection she has curated – she explains she is in town for Art Dubai and the Christie’s auctions, before heading to Hong Kong for a fleeting 24 hours to touch base at Basel, and then it’s on to Amman. Originally a 19th and 20th century Orientalist art specialist at Christie’s, Dina started working with Middle Eastern and Iranian contemporary art in 2006, playing an instrumental role in placing the art of the region on the global stage. After a seven-year stint at the auction house, her work took a more personal turn, and in 2008 she established her company, DNK Consulting, which encompasses advisory, management, consultancy and brokerage. Driven by diversity, she tackles an imposing global schedule with consummate grace. When she’s not navigating the varied demands of established and aspiring collectors, she’s advising foundations and nonprofits as well as serving as a member of the Middle East and North Africa Acquisitions Committee at the Tate, London. And if that wasn’t enough, she’s just said ‘yes’ to Art D’Egypt – a new initiative headed by Nadine Gaffar, which aims to bring Egypt’s vibrant cultural legacy to the fore. Art likes to categorise, yet Dina’s indifference to borders and openness to experience acts as a magnet for those in the art world, who seek her intellect and thoughtful approach. Continuing to bridge the east with the west through her work, she’s made a name for herself internationally, known for her numerous awareness-raising initiatives, that include the landmark symposium, An Introduction to the World of Iranian Modern and Contemporary Art, that was held at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York, The Houston Museum of Fine Arts and The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles in 2010, as well as Love Me, Love Me Not the regional pavilion she curated at the Venice Biennale in 2013. “For me, it’s much more interesting to mix-and-match rather than be burdened with groupings based on current or
From top: Mexican architect Luis Barragán’s colourful Casa Gilardi is one of Dina’s most recent inspirations
192
Dina wears dress by Rabih Kayrouz, and is photographed in front of Reza Derakshani’s Red Horse and I inside the Dubai home of a friend whose art collection she curated
“
The artists of today are the ones writing our history, in its pure, unpolluted form. Dina Nasser-Khadivi
Balu has had enormous influence on Dina
geo-politics,” she says. “If we explore the links we have culturally, it’s apparent that we are one world. There’s many different ways we can observe our connections beyond the ways we explore them today.” And the cultural fluidity Dina discovered when working in Baku amplifies this notion. “Using Iran as an example, the country could have links with countries to the north of it, which it does historically, but no one ever talks about them,” she explains. “I discovered this in Azerbaijan. There, it’s apparent that we [Iran] share so much history with them as well as Russia, Georgia and Turkey. These past links present a new way to understand Iranian culture, and the same could be said of Iran’s links with Pakistan, India and the countries that populated the Silk Road,” she suggests. Dina’s originality of thought and refreshing perspectives make sense of her close friendship with artists like Shirin Neshat, a woman for whom she clearly has deep-rooted respect, detailing her intelligence and vulnerability as much as her immeasurable talent. Baku, it seems, provoked inspiration for both women. Dina curated Shirin’s first exhibition there, The Home of My Eyes, a body of work produced following the artist’s time spent in Azerbaijan in 2014. Testament to her belief that place and space hold much power over the creative condition, Dina points out the dual journeys of Shirin and her contemporary, Farhad Moshiri, during the 1990s. “It’s interesting that, for both artists who travelled back to Iran, the journey was a turning point in their respective careers. Farhad stayed on and set up his studio with his wife, while Shirin returned to the US and created her first significant body of work, Women of Allah.” Following a five-year love affair with Baku, the consultant went on to produce Farhad’s double-volume monograph (her eighth publication) before collaborating with The Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh for the artist’s first retrospective in the US. Committed to the idea that cross-cultural exchange is more than a social experiment, but an investment in the future, Dina speaks of the profound influence that art had during her development. “If it wasn’t for art I wouldn’t know the words of so many inspiring Persian poets,” she says. “But I fear our culture is starting to fade out. Growing up in France, I was taught the history of Europe and the geography of developing countries like China and Brazil, but there were no lessons on the rich history of Iran. For the diaspora, art plays a crucial role in helping us
Forough 3 by Iranian-American artist Hadieh Shafie is an arresting addition to Dina’s selection
Every Yellow Day and Every Purple Night (Day and Night series) by Reza Derakshani
to reconnect with our origins and understand our culture.” Dina’s eyes are wide open to the world. She sees unity and synergy in all directions, from the intersection of art, fashion and architecture, to the potential for cities to trigger fresh thought. “Ultimately art, in all its forms, from cinema to music, design, and fashion, is the accurate way of recording our world,” she insists. “The artists of today are the ones writing our history, in its pure, unpolluted form, and that’s why it’s important to foster cross-cultural exchange.” Throughout our discussion she’s preoccupied with Mexico City. “I purposely add a twist to my calendar every year, and this year it was Mexico. It’s very important, even if you travel a lot, to always add change,” she insists. Stating a case for living vibrantly, she recalls the words of Grace Coddington, who once said: “You never know where you’re going to find inspiration.” The city has clearly made an imprint. As we walk to the car Dina points to her embroidered La Matilde leather jacket, which she picked up during her recent visit. As we flit between destinations for business and pleasure, it’s refreshing to see someone that’s so well-travelled, so visibly absorbed by a new place. Dina, humble in her observations, is preparing to take in even more. “Mexico set my inspiration on fire,” she gushes. “It had the effect on me that Baku did, times 10. The architecture, the museums – they have the most per capita.” She counts the Museo Dolores Olmedo (which houses the greatest global collection from Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo) and the Luis Barragán sites among her high points, but she’s only scratched the surface. “I’m going back this month to continue exploring, as I still haven’t seen everything,” she says. “Instead of curating an exhibition I’m considering curating a group of people, you know,” she smiles, her words alluding to new project she’s excitedly working on, sharing only that her experience in Mexico City was a pivotal one.
Reza Derakshani’s Every Pink Day
194
MOJEH CULTURE
Karen sits on a slate grey L-shaped couch of her own design
LIFE & STYLE I
t’s fitting that Karen Pissarra has made her villa a serene space, since that is where she creates home, garden and work havens for clients of her company Design K. Jumping to interior and furniture design after more than a decade as an engineer, the 44-year-old South African and self-described introvert says she faced one of her biggest challenges in founding her own firm four years ago. Soon, she grew to love the freedom and flexibility of working for herself. Her years spent working as an engineer honed skills that proved invaluable in the world of interior design: organisation, planning, project management, problemsolving and working with time and budget constraints. But becoming an interior decorator satisfied something much
deeper, and ultimately freeing. “My move into interior design stemmed from a deep yearning to express my artistic passion and desire to combine the skills I learned in the corporate world with my creative flair for design and deco,” she says. “It was a slow process with lots of learning along the way, but deeply satisfying and fulfilling.” When things get hectic, the delightfully minimalist Springs villa she and her husband Carlos gutted and transformed, decorating in cool neutrals with wood accents, provides just the right amount of grounding. Favourite pieces include the slate grey L-shaped couch of her own design, drawings from the Cape Town artist Maria Magdalena – and Pissarra’s own art. “I believe your home is integrally connected to all aspects
Words: Ann-Marie McQueen. Photography: Borna Ahadi
South African engineer-turned-designer Karen Pissarra believes a calm, peaceful life begins at home, in her Springs villa
Clockwise from left: A contemporary clock from Country Road decorates a bare wall; Little collectable pots from Emaan Home sit amongst a Muuto Vase from D.Tales and a hanging shrub from West Elm, bringing a bit of life to stark kitchen shelves; Karen’s own artwork is framed and mounted on the hallway amidst other monochrome pieces sourced from Dubai’s Urban Nest, a Dutch lifestyle store; Wooden stools designed by Karen and made in solid raw oak wood line the marble bar of the open kitchen
196
Wooden accents stand out against all-white slatted marble
Two large prints from Mapiful compliment the contemporary space that is Karen’s home office
A small green plant adds an earthy element for a statement pop of colour
Karen’s passion for custom-made pieces extends into the dining room with her square table for 8. She turned to Objekts of Design for the chairs and a Couleur Locale for modern lighting
Karen in her favourite room – the open-plan kitchen
of your being and that your surroundings ultimately affect your mood, well-being and your experience of life,” she says. Her colour scheme revolves around greys and whites, while the design and finishes are modern, the spaces clean and uncluttered. Ultimately it’s a “beautiful sanctuary” that balances functional, aesthetic and psychic elements of design. Pissarra’s favourite room is the open-plan kitchen, where she loves to start her days having breakfast and decaf coffee with Carlos. She designed the oak bar stools for the island, treasuring get-togethers when friends gather there informally. A free-standing bath in the master bedroom, a stunning coffee, tea, milk and sugar set passed down from her grandmother and a limestone artwork of Porto are among her favourite possessions. She has her eye on a glass Crittall door screen for the study area and a contemporary handdrawn artwork from the German artist Ulrike Wathling. She picks up items in Dubai everywhere from D.tales to Crate & Barrel to The Bowery Company. “As a designer I’m not always truly satisfied, and I am constantly adding new items or rearranging furniture and accessories to enhance the spaces,” she says. “I always have new ideas to implement, I love creating anything, so my mind never stops creating and designing.” Pissara has known her passion was design since she was a child, and to this day, that is what fulfills her most. “Designing, whether furniture, art, rooms or landscaping, I love that,” she says. “They say you are truly blessed when you are doing something and it feels as if time stands still. You are in the moment, your soul is in absolute bliss and you are following your passion. I love that feeling. I am definitely living my dream and I’m so grateful.” To that end, she wouldn’t change a thing about her life – although it doesn’t hurt to dream about a day when she could pass off her administrative work to a small team and just be creative. At the moment, she is designing several residential and landscaping projects, as well as a zeropackage store in Oman called Go Green. “I am quite the humanitarian and feel that what I am working on will make a difference,” she says. Her attraction to all things zen – she makes time to practice yoga and pilates regularly, working out at Fitness First – naturally flows into her personal style. There, it’s clean lines, neutral colours and comfort. Her favourite thing to wear is jeans and a white T-shirt or a loose-fitting dress and easy-to-walk-in shoes. Her most recent purchases were a BA-SH dress and a leather purse, from South African store Country Road. She also likes to keep it hi-lo, mixing small boutique finds with more mainstream offerings from Cos, Zara and Mango.
The couple love to hang out and socialise in their home, with Pissarra cooking and entertaining, branching out into the lush garden area if needs be and weather permits. But they also like to be out and about in Dubai, listing Al Serkal and D3 as favourite haunts. Breakfast is a favourite meal, whether at Comptoir 102, Hamptons, or the city’s new hot cafe, Cassette in The Courtyard, Al Quoz. For special dinners, they head to Zuma, Le Petite Maison and BB Social Dining. And when it’s time to relax? The Park Hyatt Dubai’s Amara spa and swimming pool, The Ripe Market or La Mer. But getting back to fueling that need to create, other than designing there’s one big to-do item on her list to satisfy it, says Pissarra. “We have to prioritise our inner wellbeing and health,” she says. “I am also an artist but haven’t had time to create anything lately.”
198
THE PIECE
The Urwerk Lotus Auto is inspired by the lotus flower, multifaceted in its beauty it is said to resemble the complexities of a woman. As they say, nothing worth having comes easy.
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
FINAL NOTE
SUBSCRIBE
FASHION
BEAUTY
JEWELLERY & WATCHES
THE BIG REVEAL: Get up close in our exclusive video with the exquisite new Treasure of Rubies high jewellery collection from Van Cleef & Arpels featuring 3,000 carats of rubies.
ARAB FASHION WEEK: Stay up-todate on the four-day event coming to Dubai to shine a spotlight on emerging designers from the region.
LIFESTYLE
VIDEOS
RAMADAN READY: Be inspired by our edit of fabulous modest fashion, exclusive styles and opulent accessories ahead of the Holy Month and ensure your Iftar game is on point.
WONDER WOMAN: Get a body like Wonder Woman’s Gal Gardot, as guided by her stunt double who happens to be a trainer in Dubai.
SPRING EDIT : From over-the-top feathers to magenta two-piece suits, stay ahead of the crowd with style inspiration from the streets.
MOJEH.COM THE LATEST IN STYLE AND LUXURY