N°67 2019
GLORIOUS SPRING COUTURE
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The Dubai Mall - Mall of the Emirates - The Galleria Al Maryah Island 800-VAN-CLEEF (800-826-25333) Etihad Towers +971 2 681 1919 www.vancleefarpels.com
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12 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Sales Manager ZENA LOUAY
Managing Editor NATASCHA HAWKE
Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE
Acting Deputy Editor LUCY WILDMAN
Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA
Acting Fashion & Beauty Editor DINA KABBANI
Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC
Sub-Editor SARAH WALKER-DUFTON
Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com
Digital Editor MEERAN MEKKAOUI
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com
Contributing Editors LAURA BEANEY LEILA ABOULELA
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH
Guest Fashion Stylists STUART ROBERTSON KELLY-ANN HUGHES JO HENG ROCKY
Tel: +971 4 425 86 00 Email: louis@louisfourteen.com Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
Contributing Photographers ANTHONY ARQUIER JENNY BROUGH LUIS MONTEIRO BORNA AHADI TINA PATNI
ART Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN
Cover photographed by Jenny Brough Model Priscilla at Storm Management wears VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
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MEET MARINE
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The boundary-pushing French designer shining the
spotlight on upcycled couture
CHALLENGING MODESTY Meet the new wave of regional tastemakers schooling the world in modest dressing, one stylish outfit at a time
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LIFE THROUGH A LENS As global attention turns towards the cinema of the Middle
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East, MOJEH speaks to the change-makers shifting tired
stereotypes through their on-screen stories
LUXURY LEFTOVERS Sustainable fashion stalwart Gabriela Hearst talks to MOJEH about her latest bag collection and ongoing quest to link luxury, longevity and eco-awareness
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COUTURE REPORT Chanel, McQueen, Iris van Herpen and John Galliano
for Maison Margiela are on our roster of standout couture pieces this season
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REDRESSING THE BALANCE As his debut couture collection for the house of Balmain is
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unveiled, creative director Olivier Rousteing speaks exclusively to
MOJEH about the emotional journey of self discovery that helped
him create the most important work of his fashion career
MIDDLE EAST MASTERS From Rami Kadi to Zuhair Murad, Middle Eastern couturiers are some of the best in the business, take a look inside their new season collections
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JEWELLERY EDIT
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The very best in jewellery is showcased in our edit,
from dazzling diamonds at Chanel to
Louis Vuitton’s new logomania watch
EYE SPY Lashings of lashes, layers of shadow and a bold brow sit pretty against flawless summer skin
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SCARLET FEVER
The colour at the very heart of couture, photographer Jenny Brough and stylist Kelly-Ann Hughes celebrate red haute fashion
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EDITOR’S LETTER Model Paulina Lachnik plays Cleopatra in Chanel Metiers D’Art Paris-New York 2018/19
Welcome to the May edition of MOJEH, a glorious celebration of the spring/summer 2019 haute couture collections in all their extravagance. To open the issue, on the cover we have a stunning look by Valentino that is so three-dimensional, the flowers almost fall from the page – an image that’s fully representative of the fantastical, otherworldly beauty and exceptional savoir faire of haute couture. Cover shoot, Scarlet Fever on page 124, showcases the verve of the most prominent couturiers of the moment, in bold red looks from Jean Paul Gaultier, Armani Privé, Dior and Giambattista Valli. The Couture Edit S/S19, shot in Paris, also highlights key looks from Chanel, Karl’s final couture show, Iris van Herpen, Ralph & Russo and, though not shown during the couture schedule, a couture-level look from Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton. Big news at last couture week was the return of Balmain’s haute couture arm of the business, a highlyanticipated collection by Olivier Rousteing, who outshone expectations with the most spectacular creations. Read all about his first foray into a world he was born to inhabit in our exclusive interview, Redressing the Balance, on page 94. Pages and pages of fashion to make you dream, and lose yourself for a moment or two. I promise you’ll be glad you did. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
Photographed by Hana Levan
A WORLD OF FANTASY
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PRETTY LITTLE THINGS Pastels can be more than just pretty. With quirky accents, they go from girlish to grown up, and unexpectedly chic
Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson
Chair, cushions, scarf and slippers, GUCCI
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Shoes, MALONE SOULIERS at LEVEL SHOES
Bag, ROSANTICA at MATCHES FASHION
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Bag, MARK CROSS at LEVEL SHOES
Boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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Bag, BURBERRY
Shoes, CHANEL
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Shoes, MIDNIGHT 00 at LEVEL SHOES
Bag, DIOR
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Shoes, DIOR
Bag, S’UVIMOL
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Shoes, JACQUEMUS at LEVEL SHOES
Shoes, TABITHA SIMMONS X BROCK COLLECTION at LEVEL SHOES
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FASHION
BEAUTY
JEWELLERY & WATCHES
EXCLUSIVE VIDEO: The spotlight falls on magnificent flame-red haute couture creations from Armani Privé, Valentino, Schiaparelli and Dior, brought to life in fashion film Scarlet Fever.
CANNES FILM FESTIVAL: Join us on the red carpet for daily updates on the best celebrity style, sneak previews of the newest films, and incoming news on the festival’s winners.
LIFESTYLE
VIDEOS
THE MET GALA: The biggest event in the fashion calendar after Fashion Month, follow the events of the annual Met Gala 2019 on May 6 for all the show-stopping fashion moments.
EID ESCAPES : Be inspired by our edit of exciting destinations that will have you reaching for your passport and escaping the city to celebrate the Eid holidays.
SHOP EXCLUSIVE : Ahead of The Outnet’s 10th anniversary, managing director Emma Mortimer discloses everything there is to know about the global reveal.
MOJEH.COM THE LATEST IN STYLE AND LUXURY
STYLE EDIT
OSCAR DE LA RENTA SLEEPWEAR
PYJAMA PARTY! Oscar de la Renta goes into sleepwear, summoning a return to luxe lounging
Who doesn’t like the idea of floating around their home in fancy silk sleepwear, hosting slumber parties for their best girlfriends? If an excuse was ever needed, then Oscar de la Renta’s new range of camisoles, robes, kaftans and pyjama sets is it. Made from the finest silks and Chantilly lace splashed with powerful prints like the to-die-for robe worn above by model Joan Smalls, the new collection presents a great case for staying indoors, or going out on the town wearing it thrown over torn denims and towering heels for maximum impact.
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THE TREND
THE MODEST EDIT
In a season of print, nothing makes a statement like head-to-toe pattern. From swirling paisleys to feminine florals, a billowing, printed kaftan is the go-to piece for relaxed glamour around the clock. Completely versatile, whatever the hour, there’s so much to love about the most effortless silhouette of all time.
SOTRA
AMAL AL RAISI
ALL THINGS MOCHI
AMAL AL RAISI
LEEM
THE DESIGNER Known for its timeless conservative wear for today’s fashion-conscious woman, Saudi Arabian-born brand Leem has always been a purveryor of bold expression, chic in its discretion. The latest collection sees the brand take on stylish silhouettes using colourful embroidered belts on kaftans to add a sophisticated, whimsical feel. Layering is seen throughout, with freeflowing kaftans paired with voluminous trousers, and maxi dresses worn under trench coats. LEEM
GET THE LOOK Delicate cinnamon shades, intricate appliqués and playful pastel accessories offer an eternally feminine take on romance.
ROSARIO at MODA OPERANDI
BEIGE
THE EVENING EDIT This month it’s time to step up your after-dark approach as over-the-top silhouettes including bell sleeves, ruffles and billowing cuts, make dressing up so much fun. The standouts? Bthaina’s decadent pastel layered dress and Beige’s minimalistic yet larger-than-life showstopper. Hard-working pieces that will be turned to time and again, consider these your plus-one. BTHAINA
Moonlit gatherings? Intimate sohours? Check and check. Invest now, and make a statement.
ON THE CATWALK VALENTINO
TORY BURCH
OSCAR DE LA RENTA RAMI AL ALI at THE MODIST
NATHALIE TRAD at OUNASS
JIMMY CHOO at MATCHES FASHION
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SOLE SEARCHING A richly embroidered, tassel-embellished or fringed slipper is the perfect accessory for this season’s artisanal prints. How to wear them? Use the ornate style to add a touch of glamour to polished blue jeans, complement loose kaftans, or add a little edge via decorative details like crystals or bows.
MERCEDES CASTILLO at THE MODIST
JIMMY CHOO at MATCHES FASHION
Farfetch’s Get Together campaign celebrates Middle East style SANAYI 313 at NET-A-PORTER
THE POWER OF DIVERSITY Following its launch initiative in March to further explore the world of fashion through creatives across the globe, leading e-commerce site Farfetch is putting the spotlight on some of the Arab community’s biggest tastemakers. Titled Get Together, the campaign features creatives, storytellers and content creators from across the region, who are currently shaping the Middle East’s cultural landscape, and their interpretations of modest dressing. From LebaneseSudanese director Dana Boulous, who shot the campaign in Dubai’s Al Fahidi historical district,
ALBERTA FERRETTI
to Ameni Esseibi, the Tunisian model celebrating body positivity and Saudi Arabian photographer Taha Ibrahim Barjeel, the campaign highlights some of the unique faces and personalities that make up Farfetch’s Middle Eastern fashion community. Farfetch.com
OKHTEIN at FARFETCH
BOTTEGA VENETA at FARFETCH
MALONE SOULIERS at OUNASS
Photography: Malak Kabbani
AQUAZZURA at MODA OPERANDI
The Modist’s exclusive Ramadan collection includes kaftans by Huishan Zhang
THE CAPSULE For its third consecutive year, global online fashion destination The Modist has released an exclusive capsule collection of limited edition, one-of-a-kind kaftan styles for Ramadan 2019. Collaborating with a curated selection of the luxury modest fashion platform’s most covetable brands, the capsule includes unique pieces from Roksanda, Ingie Paris, Bouguessa, Huishan Zhang and Dima Ayad.
MARINA QURESHI
5 MINUTES WITH... MARINA QURESHI The Dubai-based designer talks eveningwear, Amal Clooney, and how modest dressing is all about expression. What is your definition of modest dressing? Everyone has their own definition of modest dressing. The way I see it, it’s not just a virtue. And just like any other style, modest dressing can be as classy, stylish, sophisticated and as elegant as you make it. Is modesty something you always think about when creating your collections? Absolutely. It’s always been a way of designing for me. Why is modest fashion gaining more attention these days? Women in general are working together more than ever and fighting for their rights, bringing up awareness of all kinds of issues in our society. With all the movements around the world, fashion has played a big role. We are the generation that does not dress to impress, but more dress to express. We dress to express our belief, our political stance, as well as our true selves. Where do you see the modest industry going? I believe it will grow even stronger, and continue to have a big impact in the fashion industry. I also believe more international brands will adopt the style. Who is the Marina Qureshi woman? She is bold and elegant, yet fun. I love Amal Clooney: she is a strong, educated woman, with an incredible sense of style, who inspires me. Describe the S/S19 style code. This season, I worked with pleats, mixing them with other fabrics, such as lace and jacquard. Feathered butterflies add a subtle yet feminine touch. I also played with sequins and gold lamé to create some more modern eveningwear looks. Your favourite look? The tunic top with flared pants in white sequins or gold lamé. It’s not your typical evening look. It’s modern and unique, and I love it! Marinaqureshi.com
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OBJECTS OF DESIRE
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: Getty Images / David M. Benett
Pushing the boundaries between desirable and wearable, Mary Katrantzou pulled out all the stops for her 10th anniversary show
Mary Katrantzou’s S/S19 showcase was an emotional overview of her 10-year career
Classic Katrantzou, but amped-up to the max, we witnessed a cabinet of curiosities, elaborately and intricately embellished to breathtaking degree. With fun and frivolity at the fore, millinery by Stephen Jones topped off the army of models with sporty baseball caps and veiled helmets, while shoes by Jimmy Choo were further inspired by the magic of collectibles, with transparent domed heels – a nod to the kind used to protect butterflies and oddities kept safe in museums and artefact-packed stately homes. The result was utterly fantastical, and magically Mary – where the unexpected is expected and even more extravagant. Among the strongest pieces were hyper-realistic collages of pattern, in the form of world-famous art, this time reincarnated to emulate not the canvas but the gallery wall on which they hung. And the finale? An emotional trip down memory lane, as the perfume bottle prints from Mary’s A/W09 debut made a return to the catwalk. A collection inspired by fragrance favourites Eternity, Pleasures and Shalimar, reimagined in mesh and crystal embroidery, the magnificent reworking of her groundbreaking digital prints brought more than a tear to the eye of a spellbound front row.
THE COLLECTION
How do you celebrate a decade in fashion? According to Mary Katrantzou, you bring back the best of your past and rework it for the present. Calling it “a collection about collections,” her S/S19 showcase was a celebration of an archive refined, reexamined, and reincarnated. A retrospectove, where Mary – cross-pollinating between old and new techniques and silhouettes from previous seasons – gave birth to a collection of twinkling demi-couture, as dazzling as the trompe l’oeil dresses that made her name exactly 10 years ago. Staged at the Roundhouse, a grand performance venue located in London’s Camden, with a specially composed (and equally grand) soundtrack by Academy Award-winning Greek composer Vangelis, the show plunged deep into Mary’s extravagant design archive and resurfaced with five themes – postage stamps, insects, works of art, jewellery and perfume bottles – and elevated into pieces even more magnificent than those iconic Katrantzou designs of a decade ago. There was a bulbous blouse made to look like a piece of blown glass; fluted dresses with frames that appeared to house trapped butterflies; row-upon-row of rings dangling from a dress, fashioned to look like a jewellery box.
Photography: Mark Rabadan; GoRunway.com; Getty Images / Bertrand Rindoff Petroff
THE INTERVIEW
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Part of the Marine Serre Red line of couture pieces, this scuba suit and bedsheet ruffled gown is available exclusively at Matches Fashion, retailing for Dhs88,596
MEET MARINE The boundary-pushing French designer shining the spotlight on upcycled couture
Words by Dina Kabbani
I
n an industry rife with promising emerging designers, Marine Serre stands out. The last two years have seen the pint-sized Parisian win the coveted LVMH Prize, a particularly outstanding achievement aged just 25; land a full-time position as a junior designer at the Balenciaga atelier working beneath wonderboy Demna Gvasalia; and see her debut urban sportswear collection snapped up faster than anyone could say, Marine who? Her brand, which she launched whilst juggling a 9-to-5 job, has won her the admiration and respect of buyers and editors alike, the group consensus the same: Marine could undoubtedly be the breakthrough star of her generation. The French designer’s recognisable aesthetic of bringing the seemingly unsuitable together in a clever act of equilibrium, balancing elements of whimsy, athleticism and futurism is something that’s ignited an excitement in the industry, unwitnessed for a while. Marine has managed to rapidly gain a cult following – a result of her first runway show that took place just a year ago, which has paved the way to even stronger and more thought-provoking collections, that see her tackle what’s going on in the world through a fearless design ethos. “I’m inspired by daily life, and what is around me. In many interviews, I tell the story of how I’m a sponge, how I look at things around me, then try to grasp the important points of what we are living or seeing today,” explains Marine. It was a tumultuous political climate that inspired her first collection, Radical Call for Love, namely the terrorist attacks that took place in Brussels, where she was studying at La Cambre design school, and then in Paris during her internship at Dior. “Both happened directly next to my door! My way of dealing with this was, if a good designer is to be an ultra-sensible sponge of her environment and perhaps a transformer of it for the better, to dive precisely into this apparent controversy between traditional and pre-modern Arab references and modern sportswear,” says Marine. “And from there, everything else developed.”
Marine at the LVMH Prize 2017 Edition, held at Fondation Louis Vuitton
Referential from the start, Marine confronts the chaos of today’s world with her work, bringing a sense of necessary optimism to what the future may hold, however bleak the present is. This eternal sense of hope has manifested into upcycled and handmade pieces, reworked into what has undeniably become her trademark style – from dresses created from the remnants of old men’s shirts, to elaborate couture dresses brought to life using upcycled dead stock. For S/S19, the label has produced 30 to 40 per cent of its collection from upcycled materials, prompting Marine to streamline her designs into four different clean lines – Green, White, Red and Gold – a method she believes will help the consumer understand exactly what she is producing. “Each line brings with it a totally different element, but together, these core pillars create the collections,” Marine says of the practical purposes behind her decision to compartmentalise her designs. “In our couture Red line, each piece is constructed intimately and extensively through the trial and error of draping and hand coordination, following no pattern, and in itself, is truly a masterpiece,” she explains. “The Green line represents our core values of really changing the industry from the inside out; not marketing the manifesto but authentically pursuing change. The readyto-wear or White line is garments that represent life and our perception of reality, with the Marine Serre sprinkle on top!”
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We have to change the way in which we consume and produce, otherwise there is no future for fashion. Marine Serre
A multi-scarf dress from the Marine Serre Green line, which utilises upcycled, unwanted garments
The crescent moon print is core to the Marine Serre brand, and is placed within its White line category
Building on last season’s FutureWear, the first collection in which Marine introduced upcycling into her designs, the new S/S19 Hardcore Couture collection sees her add structure to her small house’s offering, using the four new categories as guidelines. “Hybridisation is at the heart of the manifesto. Not everything can fit into one category, you know? We have multiple entities that guide our output on a daily basis and that’s the same with the collections,” explains Marine. Her visual lexicon is easy: Green stands for everything that has been upcycled: garments that are unwanted that she buys in bulk to reuse for her own designs; White is the core brand, including pieces that feature her iconic crescent moon print and t-shirts in organic cotton; Red is for couture gowns and dresses that are made from upcycled fabrics, and that take countless hours of work to bring to life; and finally, Gold is for that grey area, where Marine and her team can experiment with technology and manufacturing. At the vanguard of sustainable fashion, although she might not consider herself a sustainable designer, Marine has sparked in her upcycling wake a conversation about the social importance and dire need for the industry to shift into a more eco-conscious gear. “We have to change the way in which we consume and produce, otherwise there is no future for fashion. The rate at which the cycle and customer relationship is speeding up is alarming, and this is one of the reasons our Green line manifests itself not as a commodity for sales, but as a catalyst for conversation,” she explains. “Highlighting the problems in our industry and in the wider landscape is one thing, but to pro-actively make a difference through how we act post-recognition of this issue is the only way to really drive change, and reduce any harmful impact.” It is this constant forward-thinking that makes Marine the epitome of a 21st-century designer: always one step ahead, as she uses the present to encapsulate the future. But the road to her sudden and meteoric rise to fame hasn’t been without its hardships – her small independent label has had to work to stay afloat. “The team behind the collection is not a glamorous one. We’re driven by discipline, especially since we have a very specific production process, stockists with specific needs, and an ever-growing interest in our universe. It’s hard work, resilience, and determination,” explains Marine. “In an oversaturated landscape, lots of voices will get lost in the noise of the world. And it’s up to you if you want to be heard – to make sure that you do, and do it well.” The world definitely hears her, loud and clear.
The Gold line sees creativity meet technology, as Marine and her team are free to experiment, and push fashion boundaries using new fabric techniques
46 THE ACCESSORIES
5 MINUTES WITH... SADAFA How bag designers Dina El Sheikh and Amr Abdel Hadi are shining the spotlight on their Middle Eastern heritage What does Sadafa mean? It’s mother-of-pearl in Arabic. Why handbags? It was never really a conscious decision to design handbags. We are both fascinated by Islamic architecture, and especially the technique of mother-ofpearl inlay. We felt that with handbags, it combines both our passions for fashion and architecture. What made you gravitate towards mother-of-pearl? Mother-of-pearl inlay has a longstanding history in Egypt – every Egyptian house has at least a few mother-of-pearl boxes. We felt curious, and wanted to translate that into wearable pieces of art. How long does it take to produce a clutch? A single clutch
ON OUR WISH LIST
can take up to 200 hours to be produced. Every piece is cut
Minimalist design meets sophisticated detail to create Prada’s new
by hand and meticulously placed like a puzzle. What was the inspiration behind the latest collection? The Islamic star. In Islamic art, there is a lot of emphasis on the design of the
Panier bag, which can be customised using name tags or metal letters and symbols. An exclusive piece, that is truly your own.
star. In our latest line, we played around with the star, rotated
PRADA
it, and created it in an abstract form. What do you think makes a Sadafa bag stand out? In our fast-paced world, people are constantly seeking change, and to be able to deliver on that, everything has been created in bulk and mass-produced. On the contrary, each Sadafa piece is entirely made by hand: we enjoy the process of putting our hearts and souls into creating a piece. What’s next for the brand? The sky is the limit. Sadafa is truly organic and, just like mother-of-pearl, we really want to see where the tides will take us. Available exclusively at Sadafa.com
SJP’S DESERT STEP Her character in Sex and the City sparked a lifetime love affair with shoes, which manifested itself into her very own brand. Indeed, Sarah Jessica Parker’s innate affinity for footwear has transformed into a line of beautiful shoes that even her fictional character, Carrie Bradshaw, would have yearned for. And the actress-turned-designer has set her sights on the Middle East, launching an SJP capsule shoe collection, available exclusively in the UAE. Inspired by the sartorial elegance of Arab women, the line sees chic silhouettes and opulent jewelled designs come to life.
Sadafa’s Afrique Mon Amour collection
“Both the shoe designs and their names were inspired by our friends in the Middle East, adorned with special jewels and ornaments, which we carefully selected with the territory in mind,” says Sarah of the exclusive collection, which includes pieces named after Arabic women significant to Sarah Jessica, including Amal, Jamila and Fatima. The exclusive Middle East capsule collection is available at SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker boutiques at The Dubai Mall and The Galleria, Abu Dhabi
The new SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker collection, designed exclusively for the Middle East
Louis Vuitton’s new limited-edition sunglasses
SHADY LADY With their ultra-honed design, Louis Vuitton’s new sunglasses are promising a stylish future for all who wear them. The four-piece limited edition collection features innovative options, with silhouettes ranging from vintage cat-eye and oversized square, to modern sporty and and edgy mirrored lenses to play with the summer light. As always, the label fuses intricate details into its pieces, this time in the form of an LV stamp and studs that add a discreet new signature to the frames. Available at Louis Vuitton stores from May 31.
The new Mystic bag from Givenchy
ZYNE
5 MINUTES WITH... ZYNE Fashion Trust Arabia award-winning shoe designers Zineb Britel and Laura Pujol on how they’re keeping traditional Moroccan craftmanship alive Babouche slippers are your signature. Why? They are the iconic shoes of our Moroccan patrimony, which we wear inside the house and you buy at the souk. Where is your atelier based? Zyne is a 100 per cent conceived, designed and produced in Morocco brand. Our atelier is based in Casablanca, where we work with a group of Louis Vuitton image – Photography: Stef Mitchell. Styling: Marie-Amélie Sauvé
exceptional artisans. How did you start working with local Moroccan co-operatives? Our overall vision for the brand was super-clear from its inception. We wanted to create a product that was handcrafted with love and attention to detail. It was important that it helped showcase the amazing craftsmanship that is part of the Moroccan DNA. We began by researching old embroidery techniques that have been
THE ART OF SOPHISTICATION
passed down from generation to generation, and started looking for
On her quest to create beautifully-executed and wearable clothes,
to promote and nurture traditional craftsmanship? We are
Clare Waight Keller has brought back the key codes the house of Givenchy
fortunate to live in a country where artisans possess deep knowledge
has long stood for. The artistic director continues this journey to find the
and tremendous skill. What we did was to harness this openness and
balance between logic and dream in a new line of discreet status symbols for
believe in the ability of transforming gifted people into responsive
pre-fall ’19. Inspired by haute couture silhouettes, the new Mystic handbag
craftsmen. We will continue to inspire Arab designers and young people
sees sophistication and softness combine in fine calf leather featuring
like us to reach their highest potential and best selves. We take our
handcrafted topstitching and hand-painted edging. In eight colours, its half-
responsibility of being role models very seriously. We are women, both
concealed hardware lends an an aura of secrecy to a structured silhouette,
local and global, who are capable, diverse, competent, and driven to
that’s the epitome of power and restraint. At The Dubai Mall boutique
do and become anything we dream, work for and aspire to.
ways to showcase them through our product. Why was it important
48 JEAN COLONNA X DELVAUX
THE COLLABORATIONS
A purveyor of Belgian chic for more than 100 years, luxury house Delvaux is teaming up with French designer Jean Colonna on a collaboration entitled L’xxl. Featuring just one bag – an oversized version of Delvaux’s iconic Brilliant model – Jean brings his distinctly rock‘n’roll androgynous aesthetic to the artisanal codes that make up the hallmarks of his maison. The reimagined larger-than-life shape comes in two colours, black and tan, and is made from ‘dream’ calfskin, a new leather that feels as soft as it looks. At Harvey Nichols-Dubai
The brand new, buttery soft, L’xxl
RODARTE X UNIVERSAL STANDARD
GANNI X MATCHES FASHION
RODARTE X UNIVERSAL STANDARD
GANNI X MATCHES FASHION
For its first ever size-inclusive capsule collection, Rodarte has
Titled Sun, Moon & You, the 13-piece capsule collection from Ganni
teamed up with Universal Standard, offering women who wear
for Matches Fashion sees cosmic cool astrological prints come to
sizes 00 to 40 the chance to wear Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s
life, while sun and moon motifs are paired with the Copenhagen
romantic pieces. Exclusively at Universalstandard.com
brand’s signature leopard design. Exclusively at Matchesfashion.com
Lourdes Leon fronts Supreme’s collaboration with Jean Paul Gaulitier
LONGCHAMP X NENDO What do you get when a Japanese design studio takes on one of France’s most iconic everyday bags? A chic, elegant and above all, functional collaboration. With a mission to reinterpret Longchamp’s classic foldable Le Pliage bag, Nendo has designed three different variations featuring cube, circle and cone shaped pieces, that act as both bag and storage solution.
JPG X SUPREME For S/S19, streetwear brand Supreme revisited the Jean Paul Gaultier ready-to-wear archives of the 1990s to create a cuttingedge partnership. The 17-piece capsule includes a blazer, cargo trousers and faux fur coat, and with Madonna’s daughter Lourdes Leon fronting the campaign, this is one collaboration all the cool kids will be after. Exclusively at Supremenewyork.com
A new interpretation of Longchamp’s classic foldable Le Pliage
Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio bring vintage glam to Re/done’s latest upcycling project
ATTICO X RE/DONE Known for taking the old and transforming it into the brand new, Re/done has amassed a cult following for its luxury heritage pieces that celebrate circular fashion.
Photography: Attico image by Pierre Ange Carlotti
For its latest upcycling project, the LA-based label turned to the achingly-hip design duo behind Attico, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, to bring their glamorous vintage aesthetic and shared love of the past to a highly limited capsule collection. Scouring American thrift stores and rag houses for 1970s and 1980s finds, the trio deconstructed, reconstructed and tailored pieces into new one-of-a-kind garments, that celebrate the classically effortless California vibe. From upcycled floral dresses to tailored cargos and reconstructed Swarovski crystal embellished vintage Levi’s, no two items in the collection are exactly alike. Matchesfashion.com
THE PIECE
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ALL PUMPED UP Minimal, sharply structured and polished – there are many reasons to love Bottega Veneta’s new square-toe pumps arriving in store this May. Part of the pre-fall ’19 collection, creative director Daniel Lee’s first for the Italian house, their beauty lies in their achingly plain yet effortlessly cool aesthetic. A no-brainer: these are buy-now, wear-forever shoes. Above: Bottega Veneta’s new square-toe pumps in laville calfskin
FANCY FRINGES In a season where ‘anything in excess’ has become the new rule of thumb for dressing up, a swathe of twinkling tassels goes a long way. Take Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy woman who, clad in a rhinestone cape with crystal fringing, gave us superhero feels for days. Alessandro Michele, on the other hand, took a more masculine route, with an oversized, ombré fringed suit that swished its way down the Gucci catwalk. Nicolas Ghesquière embellished his sci-fi rmy of models with tin foil fringes that sat neatly on the shoulders at Louis Vuitton; while Oscar de la Renta gave us next season’s most dazzling party dress, complete with layer upon layer of beaded tassels – a supreme choice in which to shimmy the night away.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA LOUIS VUITTON
BALMAIN
GIVENCHY
PAMELA ROLLAND
THE MOOD
GUCCI
Swishy tassels get a party update for S/S19
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OVER THE TOP
ON THE STREET
Big, bold and billowing – from cocoon pants and ruffled necklines to origami-style shirting and balloon sleeves, today’s aesthetic of oversized proportions deliver a statement-making silhouette. Forget about accessories – wear with unabashed confidence and let the your gigantic garments speak for themselves.
How to wear a bell-shaped silhouette
Accordian pleating at London Fashion Week
Lana El Sahely makes the case for oversized details
The season’s coolest trousers are extra roomy
Attention-grabbing sleeves
All-over voume
Dramatic fashion on the streets at Milan Fashion Week
A single pearl earring is the most covetable accessory of the season
Linda Tol during Paris Fashion Week
Big and bold on the streets of New York Fashion Week
Elegant, with plenty of edge
The classic jewellery choice gets an unconventional update for S/S19
MODERN PEARLS Paris Fashion Week calls for doubled-up pearls
Forget classic and demure, today’s pearl-encrusted bijoux come oversized, in swinging orbs and unconventional minimalist pairings. Piled-on during the day, break with formality and pair your pearls with sportswear, for easy street chic.
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FASHION IN FOCUS
SAINT LAURENT
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PIN-UP STAR Looking for a print that shines brighter than the rest? From star-studded jackets to spangly earrings, celestial motifs are simply out of this world.
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1. BIL ARABI at OUNASS | 2. SAINT LAURENT at MY THERESA | 3. JIMMY CHOO at OUNASS | 4. STELLA MCCARTNEY at BROWNS FASHION | 5. LELET NY at MODA OPERANDI | 6. SELF-PORTRAIT at MY THERESA | 7. GUCCI at BROWNS FASHION
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2 SILVER SCREEN Metallics get a foil finish this season in high shine, iridescent fabrics. Keep it purely monochrome with head-to-toe silver, for maximum impact. 1&2. LISA MARIE FERNANDEZ at MATCHES FASHION | 3. ROBERTO CAVALLI | 4. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 5. SAINT LAURENT at MY THERESA | 6. ISABEL MARANT at MY THERESA | 7. GANNI at THE MODIST
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6 2 FRILL SEEKER Voluminous ruffles enjoy a flirtatious flourish for spring. Up the va-va voom with a fabulously frilly frock that demands attention. Go big, or go home... 1. JOHANNA ORTIZ at MODA OPERANDI | 2. ZIMMERMANN at MODA OPERANDI | 3. JIMMY CHOO at OUNASS | 4. ACNE STUDIOS | 5. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN at NET-APORTER | 6. MOLLY GODDARD at MATCHES FASHION | 7. MIDNIGHT 00 at THE MODIST
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MOJEH FASHION
BY DAY: Alia can be found in airy silhouettes and beautifully-printed maxi dresses. She wears dress by Etro at Net-a-Porter
CHALLENGING MODESTY Meet the new wave of regional tastemakers schooling the world in modest dressing, one stylish outfit at a time
ALIA KHAN
Photography: Borna Ahadi. Make-up: Charlotte Tilbury and CTZN Cosmetics. Words: Dina Kabbani
Canadian-Pakistani, founder of IFDC
In her role as founder and chairwoman of the Islamic Fashion and Design Council (IFDC), an organisation established to further the development of the Islamic fashion and design industry worldwide, Alia Khan is leading the charge in the modest fashion movement. “I sometimes wonder if people really understand what the term modest actually means,” says Canadian-Pakistani Alia. “For me, I’ve chosen to partake in that lifestyle because it empowers me; it frees me. I feel like I don’t have the pressure of having to show my body to prove something.” And it is this life choice that sees her turn to various regional labels for her day-to-day wardrobe essentials, modest-driven brands that cater to her love of understated, yet unexpected, fashion. “I’m a fan of something being different, but fitting exactly in the modesty category, because it’s not breaking any of the rules,” she explains. “That’s what I love about modest dressing – you don’t need to be overstated to make a statement.” An avid believer and practitioner of upcycling fashion, Alia also looks to designer Ann Taylor and Dubai-based store Retold for pre-loved pieces and vintage finds, urging others to follow suit and re-use looks that “already exist without having to compel the industry to make more,” she explains. This passion and drive, paired with a unique understanding of how one can take modesty and make it their own, is something that has been passed down for generations within the Khan family and for Alia, whose upbringing took place in America, sparked a lust and yearning to connect with her Islamic heritage. “I always felt that there was something very romantic about getting back in touch with my roots, and now I get to demonstrate the most stylish side of what it means to be a Muslim woman, and the most open-minded elements of Islam, all within my work,” she says. “My grandmother was one of the most stylish Muslim women I have known. She was extremely fashionable, and yet she didn’t compromise on her faith-based principles. I think she gave me this fun sense for dressing, one that she passed down to my mother, who followed in her footsteps, and today, is one of the most stylish women you’ll ever meet. These are women who take pride in who they are, and represent it well.”
BY NIGHT: Alia opts for chic separates and modern abayas for an elegant evening look. She wears an abaya and jumpsuit from Retold, shoes by Stuart Weitzman and bracelet by Amy Gattas
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BY NIGHT: Zahra is all for big, bright and statement-making fashion. She wears a dress by Solace London at The Modist
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I would love to see more of the bigger luxury designers move towards modestwear. Zahra Lyla Khalil
ZAHRA LYLA KHALIL Iranian-Emirati, stylist
“I think women are now appreciating being modest is actually far sexier than putting more of themselves on show,” says Dubaibased stylist Zahra Lyla Khalil. Its statements like these that have helped to shake off the many clichés that surround modest dressing, and although cultural and spiritual reasons may have been the foundations of covered-up fashion, today’s modest aesthetic has reached new and stylish heights, largely thanks to a young generation of beautifully-dressed and forwardthinking women like Zahra. “I think education is key. People need to educate themselves before categorising,” explains the 33-year-old Iranian-Emirati on the backlash modest fashion is often faced with. “Every modest-wearing woman I know has the freedom to do, say and wear whatever she wants.
It is all about a state of mind, being kind, and a good person.” With a more streetwise approach to modest dressing compared to her conservative peers, Zahra can usually be found in roomy culottes and denim jackets, paired with this season’s must-have sneakers. For everyday modest staples, she turns to regional designers Bouguessa and SlouchyZ abayas, for their unique and modern pieces that perfectly embody a personal dress sense she believes is “classic, but with a trendy and fun twist.” Her style, made famous through Just Lyla, a blog she started 10 years ago to document her daily fashion moves, has measurably evolved. And now, thanks to a burgeoning number of labels offering beautifully modern and modest pieces, Zahra navigates her way through various approaches to dressing. “With more designers being open to catering to this part of the world and with e-commerce sites such as The Modist paving the way, I think there is definitely a shift in the availability of modestwear,” she says. For Zahra, this proliferation of new options is proof of the fashion industry’s promising modestwear development. “I think modestwear is still on the rise, especially in this region. I would love though to see more of the bigger luxury designers like Fendi and Chanel move towards modestwear. But if they do, I hope it is not via the cliché of designing abayas with floral or embellished motifs,” she explains. “Modest dressing is all about experimenting and having fun with clothes after all.” And having fun she most certainly does – her Instagram posts showcase playful outfit narratives of brightly-coloured separates on one end, and cool-girl layering on the other. For summer, Zahra’s all about finding lightweight fabrics and layering them, sticking to a lighter colour palette during the long, hot and humid Dubai days. For Ramadan, she will be found wearing one of her many abayas; pretty silhouettes that not only are comfortable but make her “feel so empowered”.
BY DAY: Zahra likes to wear bold colours and pared-back shapes. She wears a t-shirt by Double Trouble Gang at The Modist, trousers by Layeur at The Modist, robe by Mira Mikati at The Modist, shoes by Stuart Weitzman and earring by Fendi
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To me, modesty is a way of life. It’s how you carry yourself, and how you choose to be seen. Soha Mohamed Taha
BY NIGHT: Soha loves a printed maxi dress, which she can dress up with accessories. She wears a dress by Etro and shoes by Stuart Weitzman
BY DAY: Soha leans towards monochrome looks, preferably in the form of a power suit. She wears a suit by Lama Jouni and shoes by Stuart Weitzman
SOHA MOHAMED TAHA Egyptian, designer
With some international designers heralding a more conservative return to glamour for S/S19, Soha Mohamed Taha, a 32-year-old Egyptian designer living in Al Ain, has been delivering it on the streets, in her signature black hijab. “To me, modesty is a way of life, it’s how you carry yourself, and how you choose to be seen. It’s both internal as well as external,” explains Soha of her striking and unconventional style. “It isn’t just about how much skin I choose to cover or whether I’m wearing a hijab or not, it’s about self-respect and the way you present yourself. I love wearing clothes that express my individuality and creativity – I just so happen to wear a hijab and dress modestly.” It is in this quest to prove that her headscarf is a form of expression, not oppression, that led Soha to garner more than 400,000 followers on Instagram, who take their daily style cues from her simple, modest, yet highly fashionable posts. “It doesn’t really bother me anymore to know that there are still people out there who think modesty is regressive, because if they look around, all they’ll see is modest high fashion on the runways and covered-up girls making headlines and gracing the covers of international magazines,” says Soha. “As long as I leave the house feeling confident in what I wear, it doesn’t matter what people might think. I’ll keep inspiring because it’s always fun to inspire other woman and to be the reason they feel good about their style choices.” It is thanks to her, and the slew of chic, conservative women throughout the Middle East and the world, that the spotlight on modest fashion is shining brighter than ever. “When Dolce & Gabbana designed its first abaya line back in 2016, I was so surprised and really excited that they took this step. I felt like it was more than just an abaya line, it was about the message they were sending. They wanted to give Middle Eastern women some sort of inclusion and appreciation,” says Soha. “But still, without modest influencers and fashion-savvy Arab women on social media showing the world their incredible modest style, none of this would have happened. I believe we inspired designers and brands all over the world to create, and get out of their comfort zone in one way or another.” With a strong sense of self, and armed with an even stronger wardrobe to boot, Soha’s double tap-worthy posts are proof that “conservative clothing is anything but boring.” As she adamantly states, “I’m a sucker for
suits and oversized jackets. And I love outfits where I can wear tops, bottoms and accessories all in the same colour, because no matter what colour I go for, it’ll always look fresh and modern.” Usually found in a Zimmermann dress or Tibi suit, which she describes as her weakness, Soha is also a supporter of local emerging designers: her wardrobe full of pieces by Lama Jouni and Madiyah Al Sharqi, who she counts on for stylish modest staples. “The most valuable thing in my closet though has to be my grandmother’s Chanel hat. My mum inherited it from her and gave it to me when I was six years old and, although I don’t wear it anymore, it means so much to me.” And her love for fashion hasn’t stopped there. Just like many other strong creatives, Soha has managed to take a lifelong passion and turn it into a successful career, channelling her affinity for clothes into the abaya line she started in 2015. “There’s something very special about making your own clothes and watching an idea come to life. I love creating, and seeing other women wearing my designs.”
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BY DAY: Maha likes to wear neutral shades and simple silhouettes. She wears a dress and coat by Bambah and bracelet by Amy Gattas
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I love it when an outfit makes a strong statement that says something about the person: more about standing out than blending in. Maha Abdul Rasheed
MAHA ABDUL RASHEED Egyptian, designer
As a young generation of style-savvy women shine the spotlight on modest fashion, the world is finally realising that modesty is about more than just covering up. One woman making an art of her effortlessly refined modest dressing is Dubai-based fashion designer and founder of Bambah boutique, Maha Abdul Rasheed. “I personally believe that modest fashion is not just about wearing the traditional black abaya,” says the 32-yearold Egyptian. “Ladies are now very creative and colourful with their modest wardrobes. Although it still meets the general modest criteria, both brands and consumers are having a lot of fun thinking outside the box and coming up with new styles and silhouettes that fall outside the regular black abaya frame.” A purveyor of sophisticated dressing in the most modest
sense, Maha has honed her understated aesthetic as she has matured, capturing it innately in the way she dresses. “The concept of modest clothing is very dear to my heart, as my own mother is veiled, and is always on the hunt for sophisticated and modest pieces that express her individuality. My mum has been veiled from before I was even born, so I basically grew up with the concept in my mind and heart,” explains Maha. “I see how she embraces the concept of modesty so beautifully. She gives priority to practicality and comfort, and she’s always so confident and effortless. She wears a lot of light colours, soft linen and pearl necklaces, with of course the most glamorous shoes ever. She rules the boardroom with her presence, and she makes me want to become stronger, kinder and wiser.” And it is on her understanding of both the power and beauty of conservatism that she has based the framework and inspiration for Bambah’s Modest collection, putting out a line of consciously-crafted pieces for the modern modest woman. “Modesty is definitely becoming a leading trend in the fashion world across all cultures and religions,” says Maha. “You’re very likely to see a Ramadan edit on the homepage of sites like Net-a-Porter, find a limited edition kaftan collection by designers like Temperley or come across an entire abaya range by Dolce & Gabbana. It’s absolutely incredible.” A firm believer that when it comes to fashion there shouldn’t be any rules, Maha’s achingly-chic aesthetic sees her masterfully navigating the line between understated and modest, yet easy, elegance. “I think it’s all about the overall look and how pieces fit together. I have a soft spot for ruffles, flowers, bows and polka dots and I like minimal make-up, natural hair, and distressed jeans,” she says, counting Loewe and Cos as two of her favourite brands. “I don’t like putting in too much effort with fashion and I shy away from utter perfection. I like to see something ‘off ’ in an outfit, and I love it when an outfit makes a strong statement that says something about the person: more about standing out than blending in.”
BY NIGHT: Maha shines brightest in intricately detailed and adorned pieces. She wears a dress by Bambah
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TALKING POINT
LIFE THROUGH A LENS Words by Laura Beaney
Nayla Al Khaja watches back takes of her film The Neighbour, alongside her director of photography, Sebastian Funke
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he once rigid social and cultural boundaries of the Middle East are in flux, and typifying the tide of change is Saudi Arabia, a country moving rapidly towards its 2030 vision. Culture forms a large part of the Kingdom’s transformational plans, an area of keen focus outlined in its ambitious agenda which aims to reduce the country’s dependency on its oil reserves. “We are well aware that the cultural and entertainment opportunities currently available do not reflect the rising aspirations of our citizens and residents,” states the official 2030 website, citing this disconnect as a motivator to support and stimulate future cultural happenings. So far, the country’s farreaching programme of social reforms has seen mixedgender concerts, fashion shows and visits from a wave of smiling western celebrities including John Travolta, Katie Holmes and Idris Elba. But beyond this dazzling backdrop, a deeper transformation is happening. Tumultuous politics and social restrictions can be accused of stunting the growth of regional cinema, but now it seems that the value of culture, and cinema in particular, has dawned upon policymakers. As the doors of a Riyadh theatre swung open last April, the country celebrated the end of its 35-year ban on public cinema. Now, a year later, Saudi Arabia has announced the Red Sea International Film Festival, an annual event that will spotlight emerging talents from the Arab world and Global South, presenting new trends in storytelling to international audiences. “Saudi is a sleeping giant, that will soon wake up. And when it does, the whole region will feel its tremble. It will bring colour, life and humanity to this region through
Photography: Charney Magri; Borna Ahadi; Getty Images
As global attention turns towards the cinema of the Middle East, MOJEH speaks to the change-makers shifting tired stereotypes through their on-screen stories
films,” predicts Nayla Al Khaja, 41, who was the first ever female Emirati film director and has gained multiple awards throughout her 20-year career, as she captured the human sentiments of her native UAE on camera. Her 2016 short suspense-thriller Animal (Haywan), for example, turns the camera around, reflecting on her own experiences. Animal makes uncomfortable but revealing viewing: the tale of a narcissistic father who dominates his meek wife and child, inspired by Nayla’s upbringing. Nayla, along with her contemporary, Saudi director Haifaa al-Mansour, pioneered a culture for Gulf cinema when there was nothing. The pair bucked societal norms and took risks during the early 2000s, to lay the foundations for the filmmakers of the future. “They plan to open more than 400 screens within the next four or five years,” says Nayla. “It’s mind-blowing! It’s true that Saudi Arabia is opening up a whole new segment for its economy, but more importantly, the government will provide the country’s filmmakers with grants to produce four feature films each year. Through this initiative the lesser known stories, that are important to the Gulf, will be brought to life, and through screenings at festivals like Berlin and Venice, they will reach international eyes and ears for the first time.” Global enthusiasm for Middle Eastern cinema is apparent on both sides of the camera. This year’s Toronto International Film Festival’s programming includes Here and Now: Contemporary Arab Women Filmmakers, a retrospective of works by nine award-winning female directors, while Hollywood has been handing out the awards. A first for the Arab world, Egyptian-American Rami Malek’s critically-acclaimed portrayal of Freddie Mercury in Bohemian Rhapsody earned him the prestigious Best Actor award at this year’s Academy Awards, while 45-year-old Lebanese filmmaker Nadine Labaki has set the bar for aspiring women who want to break into the male-dominated business. “What I love about her work is that it holds real social and cultural stories,” says Afra Al Marar, aged 33, who unites cinematic talent from the Arab world through her company, Toaster Productions. Her Emirati-led, Abu Dhabi-based production house has spinballed into an encompassing entity that offers everything from script development to production, casting, direction, sound design, and special effects. It’s a hub of new ways of working – reflective of the fresh desires of a new generation. “Nadine is an inspiration for so many women in the Middle East,”
Nayla Al Khaja is the first ever female Emirati fim director
Lebanese filmmaker Nadine Labaki at the 91st Annual Academy Awards
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she enthuses. “We’re so proud of her achievements.” To her followers, Nadine must seem unstoppable. In March 2019 she was named president of the Un Certain Regard jury at Cannes. Reflecting on her days as a film student at the festival, Nadine said: “Back then, it seemed so out of reach to me. I remember getting up early in the morning and the endless queues to get a ticket. It seems like yesterday, but it was 15 years ago that I filled in the Festival de Cannes’ Cinéfondation registration form, my heart full of hope and my hand shaking.” The director, actress and screenwriter has since produced three feature films that have catapulted her to international acclaim. Her most recent offering, Capernaum, is embedded with the narratives of Beirut, where she and her music producer husband Khaled Mouzanar spent three years pounding the pavements of impoverished neighbourhoods to form the basis of the research for her film. The result is a poignant manifesto detailing childhood abuse, poverty, displacement and failing social structures. The countries encompassed within the transcontinental territory that defines the Middle East are both diverse – extending far beyond the Arab world – and distinctly defined by individual cultures and values, but as Nayla points out, Arabs on-screen have been unfairly typecast as the three Bs –“billionaires, bombers and belly dancers” – which makes films like Capernaum all the more important. It’s a chance to offer another side to the story, one that can more accurately relay a multifaceted reality. “It’s showing rather than telling,” says Afra. “Our filmmakers present an insider’s viewpoint, exploring our culture, rising feminism, ongoing social issues, daily routines and authentic lifestyle – beyond the Hollywood portrayal.” With longstanding traditions of folklore and storytelling, film should come as second nature to the region, but many of its proponents have faced adversity in getting the message out. “The thing that hinders us most is censorship,” explains Nayla. “We can’t be worried about boundaries and red tape if we are to truly express ourselves.” Censorship has become a roadblock in recent years, frustrating filmmakers in countries like Iran and Saudi Arabia, but it’s important to remember that the Middle East has offered audiences
complex and compelling cinema for more than a century. Egypt, in particular, has been there since the start. In 1896, the first short films of the Lumière brothers were screened in Alexandria, less than a year after their debut in Paris, solidifying the country’s position as a pioneer of cinema. Often referred to as the ‘Hollywood of the Orient’ the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s were widely considered to be the golden era of Egyptian cinema. Not only was Egypt one of the region’s biggest exporters of films, it also succeeded in breaking through language barriers, familiarising other Arab-speaking nations with its particular dialect. Actors like Omar Sharif who is best known for playing Sherif Ali in Lawrence of Arabia (1962) and Faten Hamama who was fondly referred to as ‘The Lady of the Arabic Screen’ were also fundamental in placing Egypt on the global stage – before mismanagement and corruption saw its ‘golden era’ grind to a halt. Despite government intervention, Iran’s innovative filmmaking continues to flourish at the festivals, known for its stark minimalism and emotional pull. The film industry in Iran remains one of the most active in the world, producing nearly 100 features each year. Its trajectory can be traced from its origins at the East India Company film studios (with early films shot in what was formerly known as Calcutta) to the international film festivals of today. Poet Forough Farrokhzad’s short documentary, The House is Black (1962) was seminal: shot on location in a leper colony, she paved the way for new modes of storytelling that fused fact with fiction. Once the floodgates were opened, Iran welcomed a wave of daring and at times politicallycharged cinematography, giving rise to such masters as Asghar Farhadi, Jafar Panahi and Abbas Kiarostami. The revolution saw media, in all its forms, heavily monitored, so the country’s films were often smuggled out for foreign screenings, while other Iranian directors chose to operate in exile. “The Middle East is an adventurous ground,” says 41-year-old Iranian screenwriter and director Nima Javidi. “The people of Iran have been engaged in many adventures and experiences which have become a fertile ground for creativity. In other words, I believe our art comes from lived experience. For instance, my
From left: Salma wears a Rejine Pyo dress at BySymphony; Afra wears an Ash Design abaya
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Omar Sharif and Faten Hamama in Siraa Fil-Wadi
childhood saw the Iran-Iraq war, one of the longest of the society may not have deemed ‘director’ or ‘screenwriter’ past century. I have the ‘lived experience’ of those difficult a suitable career choice for an 18-year-old Syrian days as a part of my childhood. I read the diary of Polanski female, but groundbreakers like Nayla and Nadine have some time ago, which may make us think the suffering succeeded in presenting alternative pathways. “Growing and danger he endured as a child was not fair. But the up, my parents were my biggest supporters,” says Salma. truth is, this was part of his ‘lived experience’, and it made “They really pushed me to refine my artistic talents.” Polanski who he is. I believe the events we’ve endured over As well as changes in social attitudes, which make cinema the last few decades has made the current creativity an appealing career choice for a new generation of females, coming out of the Middle East even more compelling.” other shifts including new technology, globalisation and So what does the next generation of creatives make of mass migration create unprecedented and compelling their opportunities? Director Salma subject matter and renegotiate the way Azzam, 22, is following in Nadine’s we consume media itself. Instagram, “There isn’t a ‘cultural footsteps, soaking up the current for example, is an instantaneous and far-reaching way that female wave of positivity surrounding Middle capital’ anymore, Eastern cinema and preparing for her filmmakers in the MENA region can because more MENA fourth stint at Cannes this month. spread their news globally. Habibi creatives than ever “Attending the festival in 2016 was Collective is an account created by are in exile, or have a turning point,” she recounts. “For 19-year-old Irish-Iraqi film obsessive an 18-year-old Syrian, it was lifeand model, Róisín Tapponi, who is a hyphenated identity” changing. I applied for my first film part of Loewe’s S/S19 campaign. Her Róisín Tapponi there in a heartbeat, after my mentor feed is packed with visual treasure told me to not only give myself a and provides an in-depth education chance but also give my art a voice.” Salma’s short thesis on the lesser known but dynamic female talents that have film, Life’s Notes, was written, directed and edited by shaped the screens of the Middle East. Mary Queeny, her, and details the dilemma of Adam, a street musician proto-punk and influential Lebanese producer, is one such who struggles to take care of his sick, blind wife, while example, and the film Hamama (2010) directed by Nujoom paying the bills. The film earned her a place in the Al-Ghanem, is another. It documents the mesmerising life of Short Film Corner at the 69th Cannes Film Festival in UAE living legend Hamama, a 90-year-old spiritual healer 2016. “My first involvement with the festival created a and the world’s most notorious shaman and Arab witch. new beginning for me as a filmmaker, and with it came “Growing up in the countryside I had no exposure to a feeling of immense responsibility.” A few years ago, cinema, I didn’t even know anyone who watched films,”
says the University College London student. “It all came from books, the Internet and Instagram,” she smiles. “I was this strange child in the west of Ireland secretly watching Abbas Kiarostami’s films all night. I started making a film log in 2015, documenting every single film I watched, and I still add to it! I’m very attracted both academically and practically to curating and archiving, so I guess this log was a sort of hyper-textual precursor to the visual archive of Habibi Collective. I just started the Instagram account, and it blew up pretty quickly, within a few weeks I was involving myself in the Palestinian Film Festival, London’s Open City Docs and ICA festivals. People started contacting me, and I realised this is the content that young women want.” Róisín is clearly fascinated by crossovers and hybridity. “I’m Irish-Iraqi, and I moved from the countryside to the city,” she says, highlighting our current filmmakers ability to capture our zeitgeist for an increasingly globalised society, and the hyphenated identities that come with it. “Ethnography has massively shifted due to conflict,” Róisín suggests. “There isn’t necessarily a ‘cultural capital’ anymore, because more MENA creatives than ever are in exile, or like myself have a hyphenated cultural identity. We are very much operating in a globalised world: the world has been expanded, and then compressed online. Directors such as Maryam Keshavarz have tried to return home to shoot a film, only to be violently threatened by the government during production. I think there’s no use being nostalgic for a cultural capital,” she reflects. “The MENA region is geopolitically fragmented, and nationalism is something that has been interwoven into historical narrative.” In the UAE, Afra has witnessed a positive impact of our increasingly globalised community with a rise in cross-cultural storytelling. “We [Middle Eastern directors] are already a close and tight community,” she says. “And as our cinema industry becomes stronger we see people from other nations sharing ideas and opening up new narratives concerning inter-nation relations.” Culture, in all its forms, can stimulate social connection, and film in particular is a powerful tool for communication. It can encourage and express ideas, and provide muchneeded social commentary. It’s a snapshot of our time, or a fresh way to examine at the past. And as a new generation of Middle Eastern youth emerges, inspired by increasingly permissive policies and modern attitudes, the rest of the world looks on curiously to see what will come next.
Iranian-American filmmaker Maryam Keshavarz (right) with Susan Sarandon
Irish-Iraqi film obsessive and model, Róisín Tapponi
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MOJEH INTERVIEW
LUXURY LEFTOVERS Sustainable fashion stalwart Gabriela Hearst talks to MOJEH about her latest bag collection and ongoing quest to link luxury, longevity and eco-awareness
Words by Lucy Wildman
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he list of women who wear Gabriela Hearst reads like a who’s who of generational game-changers. From Oprah Winfrey, Queen Rania of Jordan and Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez to Jill Biden and Meghan Markle, an army of smart, powerful and inspiring women set on making a difference in the world choose Gabriela’s clothing as their suit of armour in which to do battle. Launched in 2016, with the goal of redefining modern luxury, while simultaneously transforming the concept of sustainability in fashion, Gabriela’s eponymous label has quickly become the go-to for busy professionals, with better things to do every day than agonise over what to wear. With impeccable suiting a brand signature, effortlessly chic dresses, beautifullycut separates and exquisite coats are key: their timeless elegance attuned to a contemporary reality that resonates with style-rich, time-poor women the world over. Focused on uncompromising quality that will last for a lifetime and made, most importantly, using sustainable processes, Gabriela’s mission of creating luxury with longevity from leftovers – albeit premium ones – has kick-started a trend that is changing the way the fashion industry works. And while her flawless clothing can silently command the attention of a room without even trying, her head-turning bags have become the stuff of modern fashion legend. Made in extremely limited quantities, and as complex to construct as they are to get hold of, their rarity and collectability has been likened to that of an Hermès Birkin –
a comparison Gabriela is thrilled to accept. “I’m never offended by being compared to Hermès,” she says with a smile when we meet on a glorious spring day at Dubai’s Bulgari Resort. Visiting the city for the first time to host an exclusive, sustainably-built popup for her highly sought-after bags at The Dubai Mall’s Level Shoes, the 42-year-old designer’s debut in the region coincides with the global launch of her latest limited edition, handcrafted clutch bag, named the Walkwoman. “As you’ve probably guessed, this bag is inspired by the Walkman, which was the first recordable media player and named after the empowerment of the future,” explains Uruguay-born, New York-based Gabriela of the latest silhouette. “It’s crafted by two teams: one jewellery, because it’s a stone case, and the button is carved from malachite or lapis lazuli, and the other does the interchangeable leather or alligator strap and it’s exterior. It’s a really complicated bag, and it took over a year to develop.” Indeed, none of Gabriela’s bags are simple to make; nor are they wastefully produced; nor the concepts behind them basic. Her first bag, the Nina, was inspired by her love for the work of Colombian artist Fernando Botero; the Patsy, from her second collection, a reference to the lunchboxes carried by female coal miners of the Victorian age; the accordianpleated Diana a nod to her love of traditional Argentinian tango. “The reason I made a bag in the first place was because we’d launched Gabriela Hearst ready-to-wear and shoes, and
Gabriela has carved her design niche by effortlessly combining luxury with longevity
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Gabriela’s first bag, the Nina, was initially created for her use alone
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The reason I made a bag in the first place was because a friend of mine said: ‘You can’t be a fashion designer walking around carrying someone else’s bag!’ Gabriela Hearst
a friend of mine said: ‘You can’t be a fashion designer walking around carrying someone else’s bag!’ And I said: ‘You know what? You have a point!’ So I made a bag for me, which was the Nina. I was in no rush – there wasn’t going to be a business proposition, or launch, or marketing – I just made the bag for myself. Then I was at a show in Paris in the fall of 2015, and I had my bag with me. There were some Japanese buyers who came up to me, pointing at it saying: ‘Kakkoii! Kakkoii!’, which means ‘cool’ in Japanese. And so I thought, maybe I should just make 25 of these bags to give to my friends and people I love? Like the owner of the factory we use, or my friends who are doing incredible jobs working for really good causes.” And her then one-off bag’s public allure didn’t end there. “Not long after that, I was in the elevator at Claridge’s in London with my Nina, which opens in a very special way, and this guy in the elevator says to me: ‘That’s a very interesting bag, who makes it?’,” recalls Gabriela. “I said: ‘I do, it’s the prototype.’ He asked if he could buy one for his wife, and I said yes of course, and he gives me his card, and it’s Jony Ive [chief design officer] from Apple. I freaked out when I saw his name. Thankfully, not in front of him, but inside, I was going crazy.” The meeting was a fortuitous one indeed, for a designer who hadn’t even considered seeing her bag on the arm of anyone other than herself, or her nearest and dearest. “It was like a sign. So I called my husband and my best friend, and we had 25 Nina bags made. I sent one to Jony for his wife, and he sent me the iPad Pro, so that worked out. Then my friend Brie Larson wore hers right before she won her Oscar. So we made this wish list, and suddenly all these names were on it... and we’d only made 25 bags. Then we had 100 names; then it was 1,000. And then the department stores started calling, asking if they could have them,” says Gabriela. In the early days of launching her own label, one would assume the prospect of becoming the creator of the hottest piece of arm-candy on the planet would have been an incredibly attractive business opportunity. But not for Gabriela. “I had to say no,” she explains. “These huge stores would show myself and my head of sales their wholesale plans, where we basically had to sell double the amount of bags we would need to than if we sold them ourselves, to make the same amount of money. It just made no sense with regards to our focus on sustainability The Mitchell bag, GABRIELA HEARST
The Joni bag, GABRIELA HEARST
and the long-term view. We’re already taking the natural resources from this planet, so why make twice as many? It just didn’t tick the eco-friendly box. The only reason you would sell to everyone is to become very well-known very quickly, which is dangerous. As far as the long-term view goes, that’s not for us. So we keep it very small, and sell to our clients only from New York.” Exquisite, architectural and eye-wateringly priced, each bag is handmade from the finest leathers, comes with a microchip to confirm it’s authenticity, and up until very recently, could only be ordered directly from the brand by email. “I have two long-term values,” says Gabriela. “Long-term view, and sustainability. We only ever cut leather to supply customer demand, so we never over-produce our bags. Similarly, before we go and buy new materials every season for ready-to-wear, we look at our dead stock and see what we can do with it. Because we work with the most beautiful fabrics in the world, I say: ‘Lets not buy anything new yet, lets look at what we have left to use, and not be wasteful.” While sustainability might be one of the biggest talking points in fashion right now, it’s been a way of life for Gabriela.
Raised on an organic cattle and merino wool sheep-rearing ranch in Uruguay – nature, and the need to be resourceful, responsible and respectful, was a hugely powerful presence in her childhood. “We were sustainable out of a utilitarian perspective: that was the way things were done,” she explains. “We were off the grid, so we had solar panels before most other people did, and water was drawn from the earth. It was so remote, with vast amounts of land, and when night came, all you could see were stars, and all you could hear was nature. I think that’s why it’s a very natural thing for me to want to protect it, because I understand that actually I’m not protecting nature, I’m protecting humankind because we are the ones who are eventually going to get eradicated.” With 99 per cent of Gabriela Hearst textiles sustainably sourced – and as of this month, all of the brand’s packaging biodegradable, including recycled cardboard hangers – next on the list is significantly reducing the company’s carbon footprint by only transporting their products by boat. “The issue is that as a civilisation, we’re always rushing,” she explains. “But because of the way in which we produce
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Before sourcing materials for each ready-to-wear collection, Gabriela will look to and re-use her existing luxury fabric stocks
GABRIELA HEARST S/S19
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Luxury should be sustainable. They shouldn’t be competing concepts. Gabriela Hearst
our bags, they are now only going to be shipped by boat. And then we’ve set goals for ready-to-wear and shoes. But every year, we’re going to be increasing the percentage of product we ship by boat. It’s all about goals.” With a dream of creating a business model that can be scaled and copied globally, Gabriela sees her company – which, in just under four years has achieved an annual sales revenue of Dhs66 million – as a working laboratory, proving sustainability and luxury are not mutually exclusive. “In the beginning, advisors urged me not to associate my label with sustainability, because no other luxury brands did,” she explains. “But I’m lucky, because I’m older, and I don’t listen. Luxury should be sustainable, they shouldn’t be competing concepts. I don’t think there is anything more important in the world right now.” Describing herself as “a feminist, an environmentalist, and a mother-of-five”, Gabriela’s personal and professional values are perfectly aligned. “I come from a Latin culture where you are taught to leave your kids better off on this earth than you started, and I don’t think we’re doing that. We’ve kind of left them in a mess, and it’s scary. But you can’t just freeze in a panic about it. You have to focus.” Using fashion as a language of political engagement, Gabriela wants to educate consumers within the environmental movement that there’s a place for luxury, pleasure, great design and quality – and it doesn’t have to cost us the earth. “I love doing what I do; I want to do it for as long as possible. But I want to make things that have a purpose. Just making things that are beautiful and desirable is not enough for me.” Keen to emphasise that she’s not an “alarmist”, the designer is adamant that being “more curious and passionate” about consumerism would help dispel the myth that sustainability is all about “tree-hugging and granola.” She tells us: “For me, sustainability is all about taking responsibility. We do so many things mindlessly. We have to awaken that part of our brains in regard to personal consumption. You have to ask yourself: ‘Do I really need to use this plastic knife and fork with my salad? Should I really buy a banana sold in it’s very own plastic bag? That’s why education is important.” The designer concludes: “I’m definitely not doing this to be rich, and I’m definitely not doing this to be famous. I’m doing this because I’m meant to leave something better behind for my kids. I mean, who cares about making it as the biggest fashion brand on the planet, when there’s no planet left?” GABRIELA HEARST S/S19
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MOJEH COUTURE REPORT
Pink mermaid bustier dress, fully embroidered with sequins, flowers and feathers; Massaro black satin heeled slingback shoes with metal buckle; Hairslides embellished with stones, beads and feathers, all CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE | Broderie de CameĚ lia earrings in 18-karat white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, fancy-cut multicolored sapphires, and fancy-cut black spinels; Plume cocktail ring in 18-karat white gold set with brilliant-cut pink morganite, brilliant-cut diamonds and a cabochon-cut pink spinel, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY
COUTURE REPORT
S/S19
Model: Enora Blanc at The Face Paris | Stylist: Jo Heng | Make-up: Anna Sadamori | Hair: Mickael Jauneau at Agence Aurelian | Stylist’s assistant: Emanuelle Ramos
Photographed by Vivienne Balla
CHANEL
Haute Couture
In what would tragically turn out to be Karl Lagerfeld’s final couture collection for the house of Chanel, the legendary German designer looked once again to his beloved 18th century for inspiration. Focusing on the recent Musée Cognacq-Jay exhibition La Fabrique du luxe: Les marchands merciers parisiens au XVIIIe siècle – which told the story of Parisian merchants who supplied luxuries like silk ribbons, gilded picture frames and sumptuous furnishings to the likes of King Louis XV’s tastemaking mistress Madame de Pompadour – the Grand Palais was transformed into a fantastical setting for Chanel’s S/S19 couture offering, reimagined as a Mediterranean villa, complete with palm trees, a garden and a swimming pool. Calling upon the exceptional skills of Chanel’s couturiers to recreate the exquisite porcelain flowers so coveted at the time, feathers, hand-painted sequins and dried flowers dipped in resin were applied to everything from lighter-than-air organza, chiffon and lace, to butter-soft leathers and handwoven tweeds. Slim, sharp-shouldered jackets and narrow-skirted dresses exploding into voluminous ruffles at the calf, or panniers of ostrich feathers at the hip, referenced a refined but elaborate 18th century silhouette. Requiring 315 of hours of work, and 6,500 elements by the Maison d’art Lemarie, the pale pink mermaid bustier dress, pictured left, and worn on the runway by Kaia Gerber, was embroidered with 330,000 pale pink sequins, enriched with hand-cut, hand-printed and individually enamelled pink, red and grey flowers, and finished with ostrich feathers dyed in three different shades of grey, pressed and glued by hand to a tulle base.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
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Haute Couture One of the first to employ 3D printing in her designs, Iris van Herpen’s fantastical creations are works of art in themselves. A voracious researcher, who finds her message at the nexus of historical, scientific, artistic, and futuristic references, and known as one of the most innovative designers in the fashion industry, the Dutch couturier cited inspiration for her Shift Souls collection from as far-reaching concepts as Harmonia Macrocosmica, a 17th-century star atlas, to the possibility of engineered human hybrids for S/S19. Acessorising her breathtakingly beautiful and impossibly complicated-to-construct gowns with one-off, 3D-printed, face-contouring jewellery called Cellchemy, 18 cloud-like dresses in translucent organza – a collaboration with New York–based artist and former NASA engineer Kim Keever – comprised an unusually colour-rich runway collection for the designer, who looked at the evolution of the human shape, its idealisation through time and the hybridisation of the female form within mythology for her frame of reference. The technique used to create Look 18’s Galactic Glitch dress (pictured right), saw cloud-printed aqua blue, gradient-dyed organza silk, 3D modelled in CAD software, which was heat-bonded to mylar and laser cut into the finest lace of thousands of 0.5mm ‘harmonica waves’. Each piece was individually stitched on to stretch tulle, creating a dance of quivering echos that optically distorts the body.
Gradient-dyed sky blue organza Galactic Glitch dress and cream leather sandals, IRIS VAN HERPEN HAUTE COUTURE | Aquatica pink gold choker TABBAH | Hat STEPHEN JONES MILLINERY
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Armour-sleeved caged corset dress with crinoline skirt and pale silver relic guipure embroideries of medieval flowers, horse, swan and sun motifs; jewelled earrings; rose choker and stacked bracelets, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Haute Couture
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN An ode to womanhood and its milestones, rituals and rites of passage: “Birth, sisterhood, betrothal, marriage and mourning,” explains creative director Sarah Burton of the
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story behind Alexander McQueen’s S/S19 collection. The reverse of ready-to-wear designers who show during couture, Sarah is a couturier showing on the RTW schedule: her work extraordinary, each piece exquisitely considered and executed. The final show of the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week, set against a dramatic rocky landscape of giant boulders plastered with worn-away posters, she symbolically brought
Nature, imbued with a sense of mystery, rich in folklore and legends that seep through the British landscape, always inspire my collections.
the standing stones of Avebury, a circle thought to be even older than Stonehenge,
Sarah Burton
of Alexander McQueen’s Dubai Mall boutique, in all it’s warrior-princess glory.
to Paris. Show notes referenced the idea of long-forgotten treasures – kept in a trousseau, folded with pressed flowers – and heirloom clothing embedded with memories and meaning. Inspired by the portraits of Victorian women by British photographer Julia Margaret Cameron, with pagan references and dense floral embroideries influenced by the rural lndscapes of the west of England key, the house signature of mixing the fierce with the fragile reigned, with sharply-structured leathers offset against gowns of meticulously-created digital print silks, lace, embroideries and chiffon. Runway Look 40, the armour-caged corset dress with pale silver relic guipure embroideries of medievel motifs (pictured left) was displayed at the opening
ASHI STUDIO
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Haute Couture
Titled Letters to Margaret, Ashi Studio’s S/S19 couture collection marks a step away from the Saudi Arabian-born couturier’s signature designs. Widely-known for his intricately embroidered pieces, Mohammed Ashi was inspired by the bygone eras of the 1950s and 1990s for his 27-piece collection, which featured a vibrant colour palette of hot pink, lime green and acid yellow, interspersed with classic black and cream. “A picture from the 1950s caught my eye in a book. There was something about the details and the movement that inspired me,” he reveals. “The direction of the S/S19 couture collection is different from previous ones I’ve done. There’s a harmonious mixture of a ’50s and ’90s vibe throughout.” With dramatic volume a linking factor of the collection, moire taffeta, lace and double satins were sculpted into huge ruffles and folds, adding theatrical flourish to capes, bodices and hemlines. Splashes of wild paintbox-bright colour punctuated an array of magnificently-plumed and ruffled gowns, with Look 8: a bell-shaped, voluminous off-the-shoulder top with a train, paired with slim-fitting trousers in lime green silk taffeta (pictured right) a fresh and fun example of the Beirut-based designer’s new vision of his glamorous, international client.
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I design for strong, powerful, elegant and avant-garde women, who are not afraid to fight for their rights. I am a feminist. Mohammed Ashi
Top and trousers, ASHI STUDIO | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Hat, STEPHEN JONES MILLINERY | Ring, ADELINE CACHEUX | Rings, DIOR JEWELLERY
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Sequence poodle jacquard cargo trouser cut into a dress with plumed cuffs; yellow patent leather shoes and Klein blue headpiece, MAISON MARGIELA ARTISAN DESIGNED BY JOHN GALLIANO
Haute Couture
MAISON MARGIELA Decadence, the focus of John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal collection, was more than evident at his visually assaulting S/S19 couture show. “The overstimulation of computer-generated imagery alters reality and degenerates the truth. Chaotic and unsettling, it is a confusion of the senses rooted in an over-satiation that inevitably overspills,” read the show notes, which referenced not only the collection that unfolded, but the show space itself. With walls covered in aggressive multicoloured graffiti, made all the more migraine-inducing by the totally-mirrored floor, the only form that could truly be made out was the repeated image of a giant standard poodle, clipped and coiffed to perfection in Galliano’s favourite shade of Yves Klein blue – his visual signifier of the show’s theme of excessive vulgarity and 21st century overindulgence.
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Using a kaleidoscopic colour palette – that often made it hard to differentiate his gender-fluid garments from the graffitied walls – from traditional hand-embroideries and feather fronds to state-of-the-art reflective fabrics, often combined for extra dazzle-factor when it hit the mirrored floor: deconstructed chaos prevailed. As the show progressed,
We wanted to explore the idea of excess, of artifice and decay, and followed this idea that eventually the excess could lead to something a little more minimal.
‘quieter’ pieces were less colour-soaked, but their silhouette no less
John Galliano
Klein blue headpiece make for a major multicolured millenial statement.
directional: a trench coat cut away into skate shorts; a trouser waistband morphed into a standing collar; the back of a velvet jacket suddenly a lace dress. With the use of lavish materials like guipure, Chantilly lace, organza, velvet, and devoré, along with wools and canvas fabrics meticulously hand-painted, combined with the sequence poodle pattern and paintbox shades, offset with occasional neutrals of black, tan, khaki, navy blue and cream, the assembled fashion crowd were sent on a rainbow rollercoaster ride of digital excess. Look 4’s sequence poodle jacquard cargo trouser cut into a dress with plumed cuffs, yellow patent leather shoes and a
ZUHAIR MURAD
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Haute Couture This couture season saw many designers look to the life aquatic, with underwater sea goddesses emerging from the waves and promenading onto land. One such designer who expanded on the sea life theme, was Lebanese legend, Zuhair Murad. The couturier dropped his design anchor in the ocean, plunged into the deep blue and scoured the sea bed for fantastical corals, luminous mother-of-pearl and tiny seashells, resurfacing with an aquatic treasure trove, which he took back to his atelier and transformed into a marinesoaked collection for sartorial sea nymphs to wear on the catwalk. Unleashing a tidal wave of signature red carpet gowns: ruffles rippled on evening dresses in pleated tulle and iridescent organza, while shimmery fish-scaled silhouettes dripped with azure blue dégradé sequins. And although Zuhair sent out quite the sparkly army, he kept the theme controlled, shying away from anything that was overtly literal. His mermaids, if you want to call them that, were strong and sexy, navigating between a rock star attitude and a somewhat softer romance. Their story played out through a series of sleek, figure-hugging pieces, exquisitely executed, with slits at the sides, some with billowy chiffon trains that floated behind and many, fixed with the same diamond-encrusted scallop-buckled belt, that changed colour with each look – from the blue-black tones of the deepest ocean to the luminous silver of its treasured mother-of-pearl.
Dress and belt, ZUHAIR MURAD COUTURE | Rings and bracelet, DIOR JEWELLERY
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Jumpsuit, RALPH & RUSSO HAUTE COUTURE | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Bracelet and ring, DIOR JEWELLERY
Haute Couture
RALPH RUSSO
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A free pass to the imagination is the carte blanche that couture week
gives designers. And for their S/S19 couture collection, Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo let their fantasies run free, all the way to vibrant and vivacious Latin America. A glance at their first sombrero-topped look, an acid green tailored suit with a metallic snake coiled around the waist, said it all: the Australian design duo planned on being as flamboyant and extravagant as they could be. A feast for the eyes, as well as the senses, thanks to the mariachi band that greeted guests on arrival, the show was filled with the eccentric and imaginative – a rich samba of 1960s pop colours, complete with pompom-fringed skirts, ostrich feather chiffon kaftans, a dress embroidered with beaded bananas, and another with heart-shaped cutouts. And it was all a tribute to the stylish legacy of La Doña, the beloved María Félix and Mexico’s most famous actress, whose eponymous daring sense of fashion and empowered persona made her one of the most revered stars of the Golden Age of Hollywood cinema. With such a lively character to reference, Ralph & Russo made sure to follow with the same unparalleled and alluring glamour, whether in bare-shouldered ballgowns and frothy tulle mini dresses, or the tailored safari suits they sent out in bubblegum hues and vivid greens. A fantastically exuberant collection, it was just as audacious and wonderful as the eternally enigmatic María herself.
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The Alexandre Vauthier show was so Parisian that every look paid tribute to the very essence of French couture: a nod to the handiwork of specialty ateliers. Even the soundtrack, classics by moody chanteuse Françoise Hardy, added an air of Gallic sophistication, and just enough poetry to soften the designer’s usual anarchic spirit. And that’s the thing about Alexandre: although he might be all highoctane glamour, his eye, and penchant for detail are impeccable. His penultimate looks were a little more fluid and a lot more sensual – a clear tribute to the artisanal savoir faire of the Métiers d’Arts. There was a bolero jacket entirely hand-embroidered and worn over a white skirt; a beaded bustier pouf minidress tied with a taffeta bow at the top; and lashings of glamorous flourishes that were slightly 1960s-inspired – all paired with pearl ankle strapped heels or black-and-white ruched ankle boots from designer Amina Muaddi. Working with Maison Lemarié on a series of ruffled numbers, Alexandre’s pretty frills had a life of their own, creeping out of sleeves, gracing collars, and blossoming on minidresses in the most beautiful silk satin and sculpted taffeta. Lust-worthy show-stoppers that will most likely make their way on to Alexandre’s celebrity clients, Rihanna or Beyoncé.
VAUTHIER
ALEXANDRE
Haute Couture
Dress, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER COUTURE | Hat, PHILIP TREACY | Boots, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
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MOJEH INTERVIEW
REDRESSING THE BALANCE As his debut couture collection for the house of Balmain is unveiled, creative director Olivier Rousteing speaks exclusively to MOJEH about the emotional journey of self discovery that helped him create the most important work of his fashion career Words by Lucy Wildman
Photography: Pascal Dangin
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fter almost a decade at the helm of Balmain, 2019 is proving to be something of an exceptional year for Olivier Rousteing. The 33-year-old designer kicked off the year showing his first couture collection for the historic French fashion house in January – 16 years after Balmain’s then creative director, Oscar de la Renta, revealed his final couture collection in 2002. Followed by the launch of Balmain’s luxurious 630-square metre flagship boutique on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris in February; a new Balmian app; a trip to the Middle East to judge an inaugural Arab fashion award in March, and continued work on his long-awaited documentary, which airs in September, it’s safe to say Olivier is keeping the iconic French label at the top of the global fashion news agenda with every move he makes. Speaking to him after his recent trip to the region, while one would assume the designer may be taking time off after such a hectic few weeks, MOJEH’s chat with Olivier catches him midway through producing yet another collection. “I’m just working on my next resort line for men and women,” he tells us over the phone from his Paris atelier. “What I’m sketching right now is all about freedom: escaping and trying to find yourself. About freedom of speech regarding who you want to be, freedom of love, of discovering who you are. Freedom to think what you want. Enjoying a life of true freedom for all men and women.” Freedom is a subject especially close to the designer’s heart, after what has been a particularly introspective and insightful 18 months. Followed virtually everywhere he went by a documentary film crew, as Olivier set about discovering the truth behind his background – he was adopted at the age of one and brought up in the French city of Bordeaux
– the designer also undertook one of the most significant projects of his career – reviving Balmain’s legendary couture collection. “You know, for me it was really important to bring back couture, because it’s part of the DNA of the house,” Olivier explained. “The house was built in 1945 by Pierre Balmain, and I think the moment I opened the new flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré, it was a huge statement for us. I wanted the world to remember that Balmain was known for its couture from the very beginning, and so I wanted to make sure I would bring back the tradition of the brand, but do that in a modern way.” Hosting Olivier’s debut Balmain couture show in the new Paris boutique just days before its grand opening, fashion’s elite were treated to a typically spectacular display of the designer’s already couturestandard work, amped up to an even greater degree. With pearls a central focus, appearing as giant Balmainemblazoned orbs encircling wrists, bulbous moulded leather skirts and magnificent minaudière, hundreds of thousands of tiny pearls and crystals were applied in lavish quantities to lattices of ornamentation on suits, gowns, denims and netted headpieces. From iridescent creams and pastel pinks, blues and greens with flashes of silver, a dreamy, underwater world of shell-like pleating, coral reef textures and voluminous silhouettes played opposite beautifullystructured and minimalist tailoring, a striking contrast to the fantastical frivolity of the huge gowns that floated down the runway. “Monsieur Balmain always loved pearls, he always loved tailoring, so there wasn’t a specific collection that I referenced. Everything you saw on the couture catwalk comes from the ideas of Pierre Balmain,” explains Olivier on the inspiration for his debut couture
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Couture is about being timeless. It’s up to the designer to create a collection that is going to be remembered in the future – no matter what other people think about it at the time. Olivier Rousteing
BALMAIN COUTURE
Photography: Vivienne Balla | Styling: Jo Heng | Make-up: Anna Sadamori | Hair: Mickael Jauneau at Agence Aurelian | Model: Sabrina Nait at Premium Models | Stylist’s assistant: Emanuelle Ramos. Additional photography, courtesy of Balmain
line. “There are some pieces that are really embroidered, a dramatic split and signature structured shoulder, it and there are others that are super-sleek and minimal. would seem Olivier’s hope of creating pieces that his Because Monsieur Balmain’s work was created in a post- beloved clientele would want to wear has been realised: war era, the focus of his tailoring was to make women feel Beyoncé has worn an array of his Balmain couture pieces strong and empowered, after such a brutal time of pain since their runway reveal in January, including Olivier’s and hardship. But at the same time, he was known for his favourite white gown when she picked up her NAACP exceptional craftsmanship. I wanted to make a collection Image Award for Entertainer of the Year last month, that would really show off the expertise of the house, with while Katy Perry, Juliette Binoche and Kendall Jenner these inspirational and creative pieces, and at the same are amongst other A-list fans who have showcased the designer’s dramatic pieces on the red carpet. time highlight the power of Balmain tailoring.” With such high standards to meet, and the exacting As far as the logistics of fitting a couture collection into eyes of the fashion world ready to scrutinise Olivier’s his already packed professional schedule is concerned, version of Monsieur Balmain’s vision, did he feel under Olivier doesn’t consider it to be problematic. “I don’t ever pressure to create the long-awaited return to couture? think about it as a matter of time, more a matter of energy,” “No! Not at all, in any way!” he explains. “It’s energy you Olivier assures us. “When take from the challenge, and I create couture, I do not the energy of actually creating feel pressure, because it’s that drives you forward. So a laboratory of thinking: it’s I never feel pressure about creating any collections. a laboratory of shapes. It’s not Conversely, I always feel about reviews or critiques, it’s about feeling what you want good about doing it, because you have that dynamic power to say, and translating that feeling into your designs. that helps you to create, create, There is no point in trying to create. I was so excited to be trendy. There is no point in be able to produce my first following the hype. Couture couture collection – nothing is about being timeless. could stop me wanting to get it ready.” Nobody can judge you on being timeless except yourself, and And it was that level of energy it’s up to the designer to create and belief in his own creative a collection that is going to be ability that Olivier was keen to instil in the young remembered in the future – no matter what other people say designers he met in his role about it, or think about it at the as a judge for an inaugural Arab fashion talent award, time.” Admitting that the only Olivier’s favourite piece from his couture collection pressure he felt was to provide held in March. “What I found his Balmain Army – the devoted really interesting was the fans who have championed his work since his arrival at the amount of young talent from such diverse backgrounds, house, and includes the likes of Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, with so many strong points of view. Listening to their Rihanna, and the entire Kardashian-Jenner-West clan, as stories; their design ethos, their morals; their beliefs and well as Michelle Obama – with pieces they would want to what they fight for – it was inspiring,” he recalls. “All of wear, the designer believes he fulfilled the promise he made the finalists were very focused on tradition, but how to to himself when he first started to sketch. “I have so reimagine that history in a modern way, and their focus many women that I love, who asked for couture for red point was to bring their heritage and culture alive for carpets and events, so it was important for me to do it,” 2019. And this is what I love in fashion, because I’m the he says. “And so, when I saw my girls wearing my pieces same. I love thinking of traditional forms and how I can on my runway in our beautiful new home on Rue Saint- make them modern, in my own way.” Hugely impressed Honoré, I was really happy and proud, because I knew by the variety of talent and ability on display at the first I’d made something iconic.” competition of its kind in the region, Olivier revealed Citing his favourite piece of the collection as the show’s that the experience took him back to his early days as opening look – a structured, pleated white gown with a young designer trying to break into the industry.
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Fashion is a beautiful world, but it can be really cruel. Olivier Rousteing
BALMAIN COUTURE
“A lot of the work I saw was absolutely beautiful, with craftsmanship that was truly exquisite. Some designers were stronger on prints, others were stronger on accessories – it was a great mix of different talents, and I really enjoyed being part of it,” he says, going on to explain the competition’s most important message. “What was important for me to explain to the designers taking part was that no matter if they won or not, they must never, ever give up on their dream. Because fashion is a beautiful world, but it can be really cruel. You have to focus, and don’t let anyone push you down. Keep going, no matter if you win or lose. And even if you do win, don’t think that you’re right already. Because fashion is a non-stop question. That is the beauty of fashion.” Imparting his experience and wisdom not only as a fashion designer, but also as someone who has recently gone through a massive learning process of his own via the filming of his forthcoming documentary, Olivier says the experience was both exhausting and therapeutic. Mixing the personal with the professional, from his roots
growing up with his adoptive parents in France, to his designer success story – including “some of the struggles I encountered in getting to where I am, the work that has gone into it and the critiques” – he explains that he decided to make the documentary, not only for his own peace of mind, but because he felt his life was sometimes considered by others as “a fashion paradox”, where he felt misunderstood. “After spending 30 years of my life not knowing the origin of my colour, which has always been a question mark, I simply didn’t know the reason why my biological parents left me. There were all these questions that I grew up with that troubled me, and finding the answers was a way to close a chapter, and open a new one.” While Olivier doesn’t consider sharing such a personal and emotional insight into his life particularly brave, he chose to film his journey of self-discovery as a way to help others who face a similar situation. “It was a year-and-a-half of filming. The documentary is about Balmain, my own life, my personal life, looking for my origins and understanding where I come from. It was really personal and emotional for me, and I wanted to share it with the world to give a message to people who also might not know where they come from; to show that there is always a way to find the place you want to go.” Admitting there were times he wanted to stop filming almost on a daily basis, his ultimate focus never wavered. “Every time I discovered something, I wondered if I was strong enough to keep going. But I had to keep doing it because I wanted to learn about myself, and give a message to the world: don’t give up. Even when it’s bad, just don’t give up, because one answer is never enough to understand the second answer. So keep doing it. Keep going, keep going,” he revealed. Due to be released during Paris Fashion Week in September, Olivier is aware that some of the revelations included in the film may surprise people – both those closest to him, and observers from afar. “I was surprised at much of it myself. Because we make opinions of people now through social media, or interviews, or whatever, but these views are made through a filter. When you do something like this, you show people who you really and truly are, and there is no filter,” he tells us. “People expect me to be the leader of the Balmain Army, with all the glamour and the French tradition, which of course I am. But with the film, you see both sides: the leader of Balmain, as well as the human being, who’s just looking to find who he is.”
Olivier says he did not feel pressure at the prospect of creating his couture collection, or the opinions it would attract, because it represents “a laboratory of thinking; a laboratory of shapes.�
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COUTURE REPORT
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE
Edited by Natascha Hawke. Words: Lucy Wildman, Dina Kabbani
HAUTE IN THE CITY Super-sized silhouettes, out-of-this world architectural shapes and try-not-to-touch-me textures reigned on the Paris runways of the world’s most celebrated couturiers
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BALMAIN COUTURE
JEAN PAUL GAULTHIER COUTURE
RA-RA RUFFLES Layer upon layer of tulle and taffeta robed the ruffled runway army
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE
ALEXANDRE VAULTHIER COUTURE
YUMI KATSURA COUTURE
FANTASY FLORALS Dainty buds or bold blooms, celebrate the season’s classic runway bouquet
CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE
VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE
VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE
VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE
MAISON SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE
CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE
FINE FEATHERS Fabulously flighty,magnifent plumes adorned the fanciest frocks
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CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE
ASHI STUDIO CELIA KRITHARIOTI COUTURE
BALMAIN COUTURE
ARMINE OHANYAN COUTURE
IRIS VAN HERPERN COUTURE
ARMINE OHANYAN COUTURE
PLISSE PLEASE Accordian, knife or sunray...nothing beats couture pleats
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JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COUTURE
BALMAIN COUTURE
IN THE FOLD BALMAIN COUTURE
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COUTURE
AZZARO COUTURE
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VIKTOR & ROLF COUTURE
ALEXIS MABILLE HAUTE COUTURE
ASHI STUDIO
VOLUME
Go big, or go home - because with couture, size matters
ALEXANDRE VAULTHIER COUTURE
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE
BALMAIN COUTURE
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE
ASHI STUDIO
MODERN BRIDES
GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE
THE GIVENCHY VAMP
All things white and wonderful for wow-factor weddings
GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE
GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COUTURE
GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE
BALMAIN COUTURE
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MIDDLE EASTERN MASTERS The region’s finest couturiers make the Paris catwalks their home from home
ZUHAIR MURAD Inspired by the beauty of the ocean, the Lebanese designer sent out couture-clad sea nymphs dripping in fish-scaled sequins, azure-hued ruffled confections and shimmering, mother-of-pearl organzas.
MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ
MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ
RABIH KAYROUZ Not only was Rabih Kayrouz’s S/S19 collection a celebration of his haute couture status, it was also the maison’s 20th anniversary. Marking the occasion is magnificent style, a collection of beautifully tailored separates, oversized outwear and playful floral print silk dresses punctuated with dashes of hot pink, mustard and green, dazzled the Paris runway ’frow.
ELLIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE
ELIE SAAB Red carpet favourite Elie dedicated his collection to the life aquatic, muddled with wispy ruffles, sequined silk tulle showstoppers and feather gowns worthy of a goddess.
AZZI & OSTA ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE
AZZI & OSTA Lebanese design duo George Azzi and Assaad Osta’s eigth couture collection ‘Memoirs from The Silk Road’ followed the trail of fashion’s legendary trade route connecting East to West “Haute Couture is like being in a different dimension where dreams come true, ideas have no rules, creation is always exclusive, and materials are like hidden rare treasures,” say George Azzi and Assaad Osta of the otherwordly designs that comprise their celebrated couture collections. “Haute Couture is like a fairytale discovery, every time with a different, surreal ending.” Friends since meeting at design school, the pair cut their fashion teeth together at Elie Saab before launching their eponymous label in 2010. “We’ve had eight collections so far, and S/S19 is all about one of fashion’s great legends, The Silk Road,” says Assaad. “It was always fascinating to us how silk as a luxury had to travel from one side of the earth to another to get to the royal courts of Europe. The idea of how secretive and protected the provenance and art of silk making was is very similar to couture, the savoir faire, the well-kept secret of the couture house, and the journey that undertakes every piece,” explains George. “Each gown from the collection pays tribute to a city, a monument or a memorable landmark discovered at some point of the journey.” With a moodboard packed full of images of historic monuments, travel landscapes, vintage couture pieces,
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Haute couture is like a fairytale discovery, every time with a different, surreal ending. Azzi & Osta
impressionistic paintings and swatches of noble fabrics, the pair used various techniques including pleating and antique embroideries to reflect the journey, with a palette referencing the colour of the sky from dusk to dawn, with shades of jade green, cerulean blue, jasmine white, powder pink, lilac, mulberry yellow and twilight blue. “The Azzi & Osta muse is every woman who is iconic in her essence, a woman of achievement, a role model, one that makes humanity proud,” says Assaad of the women who inspired their collection. “She is a lover of luxury essence, a curator, also a minimalist who enjoys her individuality, values her heritage and embraces her future. She is a woman with a voice, one that illuminates a room with her words as well as her elegance.”
110 GEORGES CHAKRA Proving once again that dramatic
fluidity
and
magnificent embroidery are his trademark, Georges unleashed a sea of signature red carpet gowns in spectacular dip-dyed silks, delicate lace and featherlight chiffons that literally floated down the runway.
RAMI KADI COUTURE
GEORGES CHAKRA COUTURE
RAMI KADI After nine seasons of presentations in the French capital, Beirutbased designer Rami Kadi showed his eponymous collection for the
ZIAD NAKAD
first time on the S/S19 Paris haute couture catwalk
Ever the romantic, Ziad worked
Patience is a virtue. But Lebanese-American designer Rami Kadi has waited for a long time – nine seasons, to be precise – to put on his first Paris haute couture catwalk show. “Everybody has been expecting me to do it. But I just wasn’t ready, you know? I didn’t feel that it was the right
embellished crystals, organza and lace into gowns fit for grand evenings; modern, youthful dresses with a vintage Hollywood touch.
time to start doing shows,” he explains to MOJEH. But as an emerging red carpet fashion darling – last year dressing none other than Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Rachel McAdams and Sonam Kapoor – S/S19 beckoned as the right time to show his spectacular creations on the Paris runway. “I felt that I needed to,” he reveals. “I was done with running around and doing presentations, it was time for something new. I needed to make bigger collection, and that’s why I went for a show.” Inspired by the infamous Nevada Desert music festival Burning Man, the 33-year-old couture designer’s S/S19 line showcased a kaleidoscopic mix of colour and texture, focusing upon mirrors, broken glass and their reflections, utilising new materials and modern production techniques to convey the young, fun and artistic vibe of the festival that Rami is so drawn to. “It’s our signature to make fashion and technology come together. We always try to use new materials, new techniques – sometimes even all the techniques – but we try to think out of the box,” he says. “We try to mix together colours that clash, or marry two materials that seemingly don’t go together, but have a wonderful outcome.” And as far as hold out for the right time to show on the couture catwalk, was it worth it? “We’ve had a lot of orders,” smiles Rami. Proving that the best things do indeed come to those who wait.
ZIAD NAKAD HAUTE COUTURE
KRIKOR JABOTIAN Award-winning Lebanese designer Krikor Jabotian’s exquisite couture creations have grabbed the attention of the global style spotlight this spring making him one of the hottest Arab fashion talents on the planet An ESMOD Beirut alumni, and recent winner of the Eveningwear Designer category in one of the region’s most acclaimed Arab fashion talent incubators, Krikor Jabotian’s star continues to rise at immeasurable speed into the fashion stratosphere. “John Galliano for Dior was, without a doubt, my couture role model. I was mesmerised by his work as a child,” reveals the 32-year-old designer, whose S/S19 collection references the same love of historical influences that were so frequently seen at Galliano’s dramatic Dior Couture catwalk shows.
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“I like to draw inspiration from different historical events, in this case it was the Russian monarchy,” says Krikor of his latest collection. “I watched the movie
Russian Ark, an experimental historical drama directed by Alexander Sokurov. It was filmed entirely in the Winter Palace of the Russian State Hermitage
Al Andalusia to me is a theatrical wonderland. Everything from the Matadors, Flamenco dancers and the fiesta of colours has shaped my vision for this collection.
Museum in a single, one-take, 96-minute Steadicam sequence shot, and this
Rami al Ali
explains. “Then I wanted to imagine the embroideries as jewellery pieces worn
was the inspiration for the mood and woman in mind when designing the collection.” In a regal palette of cream and deep burgundy, with delicate lace, silks and chiffon crafted with strict corsetry and elaborate ruffles, his signature, spectacular embroidery was taken to an even higher plane for his elaborate S/S19 line. “Aside from the usual materials I use, I introduced Moire Taffeta for the first time in this collection, because it portrays a very royal mood,” Krikor on top of the dresses, so I used stones to outline the cuts in order to define them
RAMI AL ALI COUTURE
better.” Having already caught the eye of Queen Rania of Jordan, and an array of Arab and Hollywood superstars, showcasing his exceptional talents on the
RANI ZAKHEM COUTURE
couture catwalk is high on his list of priorities. “Showing during Paris Fashion Week is one of my goals,” he reveals. “I want to share my work with people who have not seen what we do, and what we are about. The vision of Arab fashion being more significant on a global scale is no longer a dream – it’s a reality now.”
ATELIER KRIKOR JABOTIAN
RANI ZAKHEM A master in all things glamorous, Rani’s signature embellished designs and form-fitting silhouettes has made him a red-carpet favourite. This season, he upped the couture ante with dressed-to-kill eveningwear, with gowns destined for an appearance at this month’s Cannes Film Festival.
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SANDS OF TIME Inspired by ancient Egypt, the Chanel Métiers d’Art Paris-New York Collection pays homage to one of antiquity’s most powerful female icons Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Natascha Hawke
Dress in gold, turquoise and red viscose, CHANEL
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Black and gold tweed dress; Cuff bracelets in gold metal, CHANEL | THIS PAGE: Make-up: Les Beiges 2019 Collection, CHANEL
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Ecru dress in fine jersey (worn underneath); Beige, gold and ecru jacket in cotton and silk tweed; Beige, gold and ecru skirt in cotton and silk tweed, CHANEL
White and gold dress in silk tweed and cotton, CHANEL
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Minaudière in resin and strass, CHANEL
Black and gold coat embellished with sequins, CHANEL
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Black, green and beige sweater in silk and cashmere; Black, green and beige skirt in silk and cashmere; Black and gold hip pack in leather, chains and faux pearls, CHANEL
Gold dress in iridescent tweed, CHANEL
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Ecru dress in fine jersey (worn underneath); Gold cashmere dress, CHANEL | Model: Paulina Lachnik at Models 1 | Make-up: Toni Malt using Les Beiges 2019 Collection, CHANEL | Hair: Sophie Leach | With special thanks to the Jumeirah Al Wathba Resort & Spa, Abu Dhabi
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SCARLET FEVER
Photographed by Jenny Brough Styled by Kelly-Ann Hughes
THIS PAGE: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE | OPPOSITE PAGE: ARMANI PRIVÉ
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GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE
VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE
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SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE
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ARMANI PRIVÉ
ALEXIS MABILLE HAUTE COUTURE
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GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE | Model: Priscilla at Storm Management | Make-up: Lucy Joan Pearson using Rodial | Hair: Yoko Setoyama using Bumble and Bumble | Stylist’s assistant: Nerea Esgueva | Post-production: Rubix London
DIOR HAUTE COUTURE
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Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson. Editor: Natascha Hawke
JEWELLERY EDIT
Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Monogram comes in three chic sizes
TIME OF THE TAMBOUR Louis Vuitton’s Tambour watch made its debut in 2002, as the French house’s first foray into creating luxury timepieces for its global, well-heeled customer base. Having undergone many transformations over the years, including colourful artist collaborations, the Tambour in 2019 finds itself with an androgynous look, realised in four different sizes, as part of the new Tambour Icons collection. The Tambour Monogram comes in 28, 34 and 39.5mm models, while the masculine Damier Graphite is a chunky 41.5mm – and each celebrates the house’s logo through its brown dial and interchangeable straps, which are emblazoned with the instantly recognisable print that logomaniacs will love. At Louis Vuitton boutiques
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From left: Croisillon grey bracelet in 18-karat gold with enamel; Parrot Sabre ruby brooch with enamel; Cones bracelet in 18-karat gold with enamel, TIFFANY & CO. SCHLUMBERGER
GUCCI’S FLORA Italian fashion house Gucci continues its move into fine jewellery with the introduction of new diamond pieces in 18-karat white gold. The collection of necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings combine the interlocking GG detail with flowers and bows that perfectly reflect Alessandra Michele’s current love for goth-punk eclecticism.
Gucci Flora earrings, GUCCI
The new Jack de Boucheron collection, BOUCHERON
ROCK ‘N’ ROLLER As women look to shop smarter by making better investments, luxury jeweller Boucheron is answering their call with its new transformable jewellery line, Jack de Boucheron. Inspired by the jack plug typically used in sound equipment – think a guitar plugging into an amplifier – with a chain that’s similar in flexibility to an audio cable, the collection consists of sleek bracelets that transform into necklaces. Available in white and yellow gold, with or without diamonds, the bracelets are available in two sizes that wrap around the wrist three or six times, or can be worn as
Gucci Flora ring, GUCCI
necklaces that vary in length. Stackable, transformable and endlessly wearable, this is the future of jewellery.
FIRST LOOK
COCKTAIL HOUR Five bold and colourful rings allow us a sneak peek into The Art of Technicolour high jewellery collection from de Grisogono, to be unveiled at
18-karat rose gold ring set with rubies and white diamonds, DE GRISOGONO
18-karat gold ring set with Colombian emerald and black diamonds, DE GRISOGONO
18-karat gold ring set with blue sapphire, emeralds and white diamonds, DE GRISOGONO
this month’s Cannes Film Festival. Inspired by the tradition of Old Hollywood cinema and the first technicolour films, the collection is set to be a celebration of powerful women, glamour and magnificent, colourful gemstones.
18-karat yellow gold ring set with one cushion-cut yellow diamond, yellow diamonds and black diamonds, DE GRISOGONO
18-karat gold ring set with one Burmese cushion-cut ruby and white diamonds, DE GRISOGONO
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Montre Boléro Grand Modèle in 36mm, CHAUMET
Caroline Gaspard is the founder of Akillis
5 MINUTES WITH... CAROLINE GASPARD
ABOUT TIME Montre Boléro is the new timepiece from Chaumet. Clean and
The founder and creative director of Akillis shares her love for
contemporary with its round dial and minimal design, it’s discreet
big diamonds, strong women and interesting people
enough to wear with anything, and timeless enough to transcend generations. Available in rose or yellow gold with black or white face.
Who is the Akillis woman? The Akillis woman is a very determined woman who knows what she wants, and knows what she wants to wear. These women are self-confident, sporty, and they take life in their hands. What were the first collections you created? The Bullet, the Puzzle and after came the Python, Capture Me and Capture in Motion. How long does it take to create a concept? It’s very natural. I am a very impulsive kind of person – I don’t listen too much to the marketing team! It’s very important to listen to your instincts and to yourself, so this is exactly what I do. For instance, the marketing team told me we should do small pieces with smaller prices, when in fact the one
Two-line pearl and diamond ring, LA MARQUISE
we sell the most is the one with big diamonds. How did you develop your brand DNA? It’s not calculated, it’s the jewellery of my dreams. How has the jewellery industry changed throughout your career? In the beginning we were selling a lot more high-priced items, something like 10,000 euros was our average sale, but now people want smaller thingsand
Imperia pearl and diamond ring, LA MARQUISE
now we are selling around 3,000 euros. We sell more, but smaller. It’s more everyday wear. What is the difference between the Middle East market and other parts of the world? I think [the Middle East] is a very nice market, because you are not afraid to wear jewellery here. In France it is dangerous to wear a lot of jewellery on the streets, so of course it is a very interesting place for us. Is there
Fantasy ring with pearls and diamonds, LA MARQUISE
any jewellery piece that you dream of creating? Yes, a tiara. I love tiaras. You can have fun creating something crazy, but in the end you have to sell it. Do you accept commissions? Yes I do. I have some very
TRUE OPULENCE
prestigious customers, and a lot in Russia. I like to make unique
In celebration of Ramadan and Eid, La Marquise unveils its
pieces, for unique people.
dedicated collection of opulent pieces encrusted with pearls.
At
Show-stopping conversation starters that will cause a stir at Iftar.
Bloomingdales-Dubai,
The Dubai Mall
Guarani collection cuff, AKILLIS
At Lamarquisejewellery.com
Necklace in pink gold with pearls, amethyst, emeralds, spinels and diamonds, BVLGARI
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Instrumentino watch in polished rose gold, DE GRISOGONO
Princess Flower collection bracelets, ROBERTO COIN
FIT FOR A PRINCESS Stack and layer your way through the saccharine-sounding new Princess Flower collection from Roberto Coin. White and yellow gold bracelets, rings and necklaces are scattered with floral motifs, engraved into the precious metal or built up in diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Feminine pieces that make the perfect gifts for friends, mothers and daughters or sisters.
ROBERTO COIN
CUTE AND CUSTOMISABLE Founded by friends Darine Abu Salim and Saada Domloge, from Palestine and Syria respectively, Fabula (meaning ‘story’ in Latin) offers dainty keepsakes that are designed to be customised. Engrave bracelets with memorable dates and have names set in 18-karat gold to create individual designs to treasure forever. At Fabulajewels.com
Horoscope necklace, FABULA JEWELS
MESSIKA
INTO THE WILD Modelled by Lithuanian Edita Vilkeviciute, Messika’s new high jewellery collection, Born to be Wild is an exquisite exploration of diamonds combined with natural materials and experimental settings. Pioneering her vision of jewellery without constraint, the new collection by Valérie Messika reveals statement pieces with unique twists – polished wood sits encased in gold next to diamonds; feathers punctuate earrings and arm cuffs. Bohemian and high society at the same time, this is the house’s most exciting collection to date. At The Dubai Mall boutique
Single name necklace with diamonds, FABULA JEWELS
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Cascade necklace in white gold with black and white diamonds, ROBERTO COIN
Manchette Camelia cuff in white gold with diamonds and Camelia Exquis ring in white gold with diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY
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Dior Grand Bal Plisse Ruban, DIOR TIMEPIECES
Baroque pink pearl bangle with pear-shaped pink and white diamonds set in white gold, DAVID MORRIS
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
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THIS PAGE (from left): Oud for Greatness, INITIO PARFUMS PRIVES | Cuir Intense, GUERLAIN | Oud Vendome, EX NIHILO OPPOSITE PAGE (from left): Oud Immortel, BYREDO | Oud Palao, DIPTYQUE | Sotoor Taa’, RASASI
BEAUTY EDIT
DYNAMIC DUO A musical symphony of woody accents and spicy notes, these fragrances pay tribute to the heady heritage of the Middle East with two of its most iconic and timeless perfume ingredients: oud and musk
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MOJEH BEAUTY
Patrick Ta’s debut collection, Major Glow
NEW BEAUTY LINE ALERT
COMPLEXION PERFECTERS
He’s created flawless looks for Bella and Gigi Hadid, and now celebrity favourite
Whether plumping complexions or evening out tone, a great foundation is the
Patrick Ta is bringing his magical make-up touch to the masses with his brand
backbone of any make-up look. Givenchy Teint Couture EverWear releases
new and highly-anticipated namesake line, Patrick Ta Beauty. The four-piece
hydrating agents to leave skin dewy; Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear provides
debut collection, Major Glow, features a body oil, highlighting mist, lip shine and
day-to-night coverage and Nars Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation is
glow setting fan. Patrickta.com
infused with balancing powders to perfectly match your complexion.
BEAUTY MEMO DIOR
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Warm, iridescent tones, shimmery bronzers and subtle sunset shades promise holiday-flushed cheeks and a 24-carat glow – no rays required. 1. Taupe Dipbrow Gel, ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS at OUNASS | 2. Dior Addict Lip Tattoo in Natural Dune, DIOR | 3. Eyeshadow Quad in Mojave, NARS at NET-A-PORTER | 4. Intenseyes Creamy Eyeshadow Stick in Bronze, DOLCE & GABBANA BEAUTY
Skin Caviar Luxe Sleep Mask & Skin Caviar Liquid Lift, LA PRAIRIE
5 MINUTES WITH... NESRINE EL KHOURI Let’s get our summer skincare basics right. La Prairie’s training and promotion manager shares her top tips to heat-proof your beauty routine What’s your most important summer skincare tip? Hydrate, hydrate and hydrate! Internally and externally. Temperatures rise Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty’s new bronzers come in an impressive eight shades
so high in this region, that humans migrate or hibernate. If you are hibernating, you have to take care of your skin due to the high
PRECIOUS METALS
temperature, high levels of humidity and mainly air conditioning. How should we start? A pre-serum lotion. It’s the first step in your
As summer kicks in, Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty brings us yet another make-
skincare routine that offers deep hydration, filling every nook and
up bag must-have, with its latest release of burnished bronzers. Featuring
corner in the epidermis, and pumping in moisture to allow the actives
a soft-matte powder formula in eight different shades, the new Sun Stalkr
of the serum and the moisturiser to be absorbed faster and deeper.
bronzers promise to deliver that coveted, sun-soaked appearance via a
What follows? A serum that is a targeted treatment to address
blendable and transfer-resistant product. At Sephora
your concerns. La Prairie’s Cellular Serum Platinum Rare is your answer during the day. It transforms all signs of ageing, tightens loose skin instantly and promotes skin clarity. At night, the Platinum Rare Cellular Night Elixir is a must. What about moisturiser?
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That’s the final step. Cellular Cream Platinum Rare is our most luxurious moisturiser, which contains platinum, one of the Earth’s
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rarest, most precious resources to help diminish visible signs of ageing. It uses the most advanced skincare to target all signs of ageing; past, present and future.
ALBERTA FERRETTI
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SKIN THAT ZINGS Want brighter, more youthful skin? It’s time for a squeeze of vitamin C. Considered one of the most powerful antioxidants for the skin, this potent component not only fights inflammation and pigmentation, but also promotes healthy collagen production, leaving skin happy and bright. 1. C+ Collagen Brighten + Firm Vitamin C Serum, DR. DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE at NET-A-PORTER | 2. C.E.O Glow Vitamin C + Turmeric Face Oil, SUNDAY RILEY | 3. Wild Carrot Vital Glow Booster Serum Concentrate, ODACITÉ at OUNASS
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MOJEH BEAUTY
MINI CITY BREAK What is better than a day at the spa? Try a wellness staycation! Offering beauty enthusiasts the chance to focus on mind, body and soul over the course of a 24-hour stay is the Natureland Spa at Rixos Premium Dubai on JBR. Their latest offering kickstarts with an energising and nutritious in-room breakfast of fluffy egg white omelet and creamy yoghurt bowl – necessary fuel for the one-hour personal fitness training held at the hotel’s state-of-the-art RixGym fitness centre that overlooks the Arabian Gulf. Once completed, unwind with a choice of 60-minute Royal Ottoman Hammam or Signature Massage. The skilled staff will ensure all knots are kneaded away and you’ll emerge ache-free and ready to face a new week. Dhs900, Natureland Spa at Rixos Premium Dubai, +971 4 520 0000
SPA & SUHOUR Escape the hustle and bustle of busy Ramadan nights and take yourself and a loved one on a journey of ultimate relaxation at The Spa, Palace Downtown’s little city oasis. Offering oriental treatments in a classic Arabic-designed interior space, the nine spa rooms include two couples suites in which to luxuriate with your beau. The tranquil escape’s latest package starts off with a relaxing 80-minute signature treatment that’ll sweep tension and stress away from even the weariest of guests. Once completed, a sumptuous suhoor and some hubbly bubbly await at renowned culinary hubs Fai, Buhayra Lounge or the traditional Arabian tent at Ewaan. Dhs750, The Spa, Palace Downtown, +971 4 428 7805 Guerlain Spa at One & Only The Palm
THE GOLDEN HOUR
HIT REFRESH
As Ramadan kicks into full throttle, thoughts turn to hydration. Enter Touch of Gold, the latest spa journey offered by the Address Dubai Marina, a three-part treatment designed to promote deep hydration. Start off with a creamy body exfoliation with Gommage Thé au Népal, a nourishing recipe of bamboo powder exfoliants that are mixed with shea butter, apricot and macadamia oils – a winning combo that will leave skin incredibly smooth. With rooibos extract, the Complexe des 4
Reset a stressed-out body this Ramadan with a treatment package that covers all bases. Here’s how to switch off...
Thés is then applied followed by the final product, the Huile Des 4 Thés
RAMADAN TREATS AT ONE & ONLY
A JOURNEY WITH OUD
In time for Ramadan, the luxurious Guerlain Spa at One & Only
It’s not until you have a treatment with Arabia’s most revered
The Palm has amped up its menu with the introduction of eight new
essence that you realise there’s more to it than a hypnotic
treatments. Far from the usual relaxation massages, the new therapies
fragrance. Giving the gift of oud this Ramadan is the Pearl Spa at
are targeted to specific concerns. From the groundbreaking anti-ageing
Four Seasons Resort Dubai, offering guests the chance to experience
Orchidée Impériale Black and Abeille Royale Honey Repair facials
the magnificent scent as well as gold Sodashi, a nourishing Arabian
that use Guerlain’s famous skincare ranges to coax the skin back to
body oil, in a range of beneficial skin treatments this month. From the
optimum vitality, to the new age-defying Body Lift and Beauty Lift
Pure Oud Radiance Facial and Body Balance Salt Glow Therapeutic
massages that work on improving muscle tone and suppleness, the
Exfoliation to the Revive and Hydrate Facial, the myriad of options
new line-up offers eight new reasons to improve yourself this Ramadan.
on offer will create magical memories of Arabia. The Pearl Spa,
Guerlain Spa, One & Only The Palm, +971 4 440 1040
Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, +971 4 436 7424
Brume D’Or dry oil, the last step that further instils skin with moisture and promotes a healthy glow. Dhs355, The Spa at The Address Dubai Marina, +971 4 436 7424
FRENCH FANCY Igniting olfactory senses since its foundation back in 1975 on the outskirts of Grasse, France, there is nothing quite like Henry Jacques when it comes to haute parfumerie. The brand, which spent its first few decades creating bespoke fragrances for private clients, has captivated with its new range of limited-edition essences finally available for the public at its boutiques in Singapore and Dubai, with a standalone in Harrod’s London. Through their integrity and purity, the house’s iconic elixirs come to life, combining breathtaking and bewitching formulas with the ultimate touch of elegance. Iconic yet innovative, Henry Jacques has worked with the world’s greatest crystal glassmakers and jewellers to bottle its irresistible nectars, resulting in intricately-designed pieces to be treasured.
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson. Words: Dina Kabbani
From left: Ruby Rose in Rose Ancienne, Dhs15,810; Jardin Des Roses in Une Vie En Rose, Dhs13,995; Round Orchidea Gold Neck in Ambrose, Dhs10,045 all part of the Couture Collection, HENRY JACQUES in The Dubai Mall
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BEAUTY IN FOCUS
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1. Legendary Lashes Volume 2, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 2. Prisme Primer, GIVENCHY | 3. Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink, BOBBI BROWN at NET-A-PORTER | 4. Angled Liner Brush, SEPHORA | 5. Kajal InkArtist in Nippon Noir, SHISEIDO | 6. Eye Primer, HEIR ATELIER at NET-A-PORTER | 7. Eye Make-Up Remover, GROWN ALCHEMIST at OUNASS
ROCHAS
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7 5 FILL IN THE LINES Modern graffiti cat-eyes require a steady hand and the right tools. From super-fine brushes to eyelid primers, here’s how to make winged liner a breeze.
Photography: GoRunway.com
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3 1 1. Semisumo Hi-Shine Lo-Hold Pomade, BUMBLE AND BUMBLE at NET-A-PORTER | 2. Matte Pomade, OUAI HAIRCARE | 3. Tecni Art Glue Structurising Fibre Gel, L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL | 4. Surfcomber Tousled Texture Mousse, ORIBE at OUNASS | 5. Styling Powder, BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE at NET-A-PORTER | 6. Vented Grooming Brush, Philip Kingsley at OUNASS
2 VICTORIA BECKHAM
SACAI
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WET & WILD How to style pre-soaked locks? Slicked back for an edgy take on the trend, or parted to the side to work a more sophisticated wet-look finish.
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EYE SPY Lashings of lashes, layers of shadow and a bold brow sit pretty against flawless summer skin Photographed by Luis Monteiro Make-up by Marco Antonio
Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 653 Coral Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 002 Dark Brown | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm | Cheeks: Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze in 002 Soft Sunlight | Lips: Rouge Dior Couture Colour lipstick in 219 Rose Montaigne | Nails: Dior Vernis in 853 Massai and 902 Bar, all DIOR BEAUTY
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Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 853 Rosy Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 003 Auburn | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm | Cheeks: Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze in 002 Soft Sunlight | Lips: Rouge Dior Couture Colour lipstick in 426 Sensual Matte, all DIOR BEAUTY
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 553 Earthy Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 003 Auburn | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm | Cheeks: Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze in 002 Soft Sunlight | Lips: Rouge Dior Ultra Rouge in 485 Ultra Lust, all DIOR BEAUTY | THIS PAGE: Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 653 Coral Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 002 Dark Brown | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm | Cheeks: Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze in 002 Soft Sunlight, all DIOR BEAUTY
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 853 Rosy Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 004 Black | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm , all DIOR BEAUTY | THIS PAGE: Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 053 Smoky Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 002 Dark Brown | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm | Cheeks: Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze in 002 Soft Sunlight | Lips: Rouge Dior Ultra Rouge in 485 Ultra Lust, all DIOR BEAUTY
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 553 Earthy Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 021 Chestnut | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm | Cheeks: Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze in 002 Soft Sunlight | Lips: Rouge Dior Ultra Rouge in 485 Ultra Lust | Nails: Dior Vernis in 853 Massai and 902 Bar, all DIOR BEAUTY | THIS PAGE: Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 053 Smoky Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 0011 Blonde | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm | Cheeks: Diorskin Mineral Nude Bronze in 002 Soft Sunlight | Lips: Rouge Dior Ultra Rouge in 555 Ultra Kiss, all DIOR BEAUTY
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Eyes: Diorshow Tri(O)blique Palette in 053 Smoky Canvas and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD mascara in 090 Black | Brows: Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow in 002 Dark Brown | Skin: Dior Forever Foundation in 3W Warm, all DIOR BEAUTY | Model: Veridiana Ferreira at Storm Management | Styling: Rocky | Hair: Andrea Martinelli | Digital artwork: Athelier Retouch
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TRAVEL EDIT
Watching the rolling mist from the property’s deck complete with firepit is the ultimate way to pass time at Nyungwe House
GETTING BACK TO NATURE Go in search of chimpanzees for the adventure of a lifetime in the magnificent rolling rainforest of Rwanda
Words by Natascha Hawke
O
nce controversially dubbed The Dark Continent thanks to its largely unexplored, mysterious lands, Africa is now safer and more visited than it ever has been. Home to incredible, diverse landscapes from jungle to desert as David Attenborough’s magnificent Planet Earth: Africa series can attest, all 54 countries within the continent offer something unique to the next in the people, culture, show-stopping scenery and, of course, the wildlife. So while our thirst for experiential travel is on the up, in a nutshell, Africa is now. Though nobody can accuse the continent of being a tourist trap, the popular holiday destinations of Kenya, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa’s Cape Town are progressively moving aside for less promoted destinations like Malawi, Mozambique, Uganda and Rwanda which all offer off-the-beaten track appeal for those looking for life-changing adventures to write home about. Rwanda in particular is seeing a surge in popularity thanks in the most part to its incredible native wildlife, thankfully now protected, that can be viewed in its natural habitat. The mountain gorillas in the Volcanoes National Park are the most famous, but we are here to discover the wild chimpanzees who live in the Nyungwe Forest National Park, located in the southwest. Arriving into Kigali after a short six-and-a-half hour flight from Dubai, we are greeted at arrivals by our smiling driver and set off on a five-hour car journey to our hotel, the recently opened One & Only Nyungwe House. It doesn’t sound ideal to embark on a long car journey after sitting down for hours on a flight, but in a comfortable safari car with coffee and snacks, the journey is an eyeopening introduction to Rwanda’s spectacular, diverse landscape and with so much to see, the time passes by in the blink of an eye.
Anyone who has travelled extensively in Africa will be aware that getting around by road is often a questionable way to get from A to B. Pot holes are commonplace in most countries, which can often extend travel time, but in Rwanda I am immediately struck by how well-maintained roads are and how smoothly we arrive at our destination. For prospective guests who find this idea out of the question, the alternative travel options of a 30-minute helicopter ride direct to the resort, or 35-minute domestic flight to Kamembe airport, followed by 45-minute car transfer, are a much faster, more stylish way to arrive. Driving through Rwanda the landscape is unlike any I’ve seen before in Africa. Dramatic green hills dip up and down
Nyungwe House is set within the flawless Gisakura tea plantation
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There are only luxury 22 villas nestled in the tea plantation
beside us with grass huts balancing precariously on their edges, and perfectly landscaped garden plots dug into the sides at impossibly steep angles. As the road winds through villages, children whoop and chase the car, waving as we pass, coupled with the occasional flash of a suspicious eye from accompanying elders. The air is fresh and clean. Rwanda has a tropical highland climate which is lower than is usually expected from an equatorial country due to its elevation. There are two rainy seasons in the year between March and May, and October to November. I am here in November and the climate is cool in the rain, but comfortably warm during the sunny spells – during the treks there’s little need for any more than a t-shirt except for during the sporadic downpours. Pulling up to One & Only Nyungwe House is a real treat. Nestled within ancient rainforest and surrounded by the flawlessly well-kept Gisakura tea plantations, the property sits low-lying and in harmony with the breathtaking scenery. As we pull up to the entrance a traditional dance is performed in celebration of our arrival, and the resort’s charismatic South African resort manager, Jacques Le Roux, greets us with open arms. After a long journey, now at 12 hours from Dubai, it’s suggested that we take the day to rest and acclimatize, and we all head to our rooms to explore. There are just 22 villas in the resort, which only elevates its exclusivity, and because it’s so boutique, by the end of the three-day trip everybody has become friends. Jacques is an excellent host to what really feels like a private estate and every evening, we convene for a communal catch up before dinner in the stunning surrounds of the Tea Lounge Bar, designed with traditional African prints, great drinks - some infused
The star of the show: a chimpanzee in its natural habitat of Nyungwe Forest National Park
One of the resort’s African-inspired bedrooms
experimentally with tea from the gardens - and a large fireplace at its centre where we all huddle to exchange stories of the day’s experiences. There is always much to talk about. Adventure in Rwanda is easy to find and the resort offers plenty of activities and exploratory opportunities to fill the daily schedule. At the top of the list, of course, is the chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe Forest. Home to 13 species of primate and 20 per cent of all the apes in Africa, it is the largest mountain rainforest on the continent. Declared a national park in 2005 in order to receive the highest level of protection in the country, it is also home to around 275 bird species, countless flora and fauna and most definitely a lot of insects – of which we surprisingly saw very few, so for those who resist Africa because of creepy crawlies, don’t believe the hype. Trekking to see the chimpanzees requires relative fitness as the pathway is slightly steep down into the forest – descending is the easy part, coming back up is a little more of a challenge but is easily conquered with some strategic pauses. Sticks are standard issue to help with any tough terrain and hiking boots are a must. It takes around three hours in total, a fair price to pay see some of the world’s most reclusive animals, but disclaimer alert, you may not always be lucky enough to see them. We were, and it was a heartwarming and oddly thrilling sight to see these laidback primates chilling in the treetops, chewing on foliage, undeterred by human presence when in other parts of the world our species is feared thanks to mass deforestation that is resulting in the near extinction of other primates. Though not hugely eventful, as the chimps barely move except to find more food, the experience is an enormous privilege, and the expert guides are on hand for any questions. Be sure to take a proper camer, however, as an iPhone just doesn’t cut it. Once the main event of the trek is done, days can be spent enjoying the facilities of the resort. Highlights include learning about the tea plantation through tea-picking and tasting, spear throwing and archery, an informative nature walk, and a visit to the vegetable garden where chef Treasure talks through his crops and farm-to-table concept: the food an Nyungwe House is cooked from available sources meaning there is no menu and it is mostly organic. There is also a spa, infinity pool with breathtaking views over the rainforest, and well-equipped gym. If fitness is your thing, then a morning run with a guide through the estate will get the blood pumping. After three days of trekking and despite the cooler climate, I am reluctant to leave this peaceful, beautiful place and will miss watching the mountain mist billowing through the plantations from the rainforest while I drink my morning coffee. A definite bucket list experience, this is a once in a lifetime adventure that I will never forget. Oneandonlyresorts.com
Below from top: Nyungwe House’s well-stocked Tea Lounge bar is where guests of the hotel convene every evening to exchange tales of the day’s excitement; The Dining Room offers breath-taking views of the plantation and a large fireplace for colder nights; The Tea Lounge displays its African heritage throughout the stunning interiors
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MOJEH TRAVEL
THE DESTINATION From private luxury villas in Sri Lanka to wellness weekends in Oman, get away from it all this Eid – you deserve it
Clockwise from above: Talalla House sits right on the edge of a secluded white sand beach; The villa’s dining table takes centre-stage, where a chef serves up three world-class meals per day; Days are spent lounging by the private pool
TALALLA HOUSE, SRI LANKA Fancy a boutique hotel all to yourself? Talalla House, located on a sleepy bay along Sri Lanka’s southern coast, is a holiday experience most people only dream of. A contemporary, fully-staffed private villa consisting of seven en-suite bedrooms, a private pool, roof terrace and only three hours from Colombo, it offers families or groups of friends an elegant space in which to relax in complete privacy. Situated next to the picturesque, almost secluded Talalla Beach, the villa offers uninterrupted views across the Indian Ocean – the waves of which will lull you to sleep at night and wake you up gently in the morning, ready for a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast of egg hoppers, coupled with coffee, fresh fruit salad and mango lassi, prepared especially for you. Food is a big part of this villa holiday, as the exotic taste of local cuisine is showcased beautifully by the in-house chef, who cooks three world-class meals per day using locally-sourced ingredients. Fish curry, barbecue and fresh salads are included in the extensive menu, and will help fuel active days out surfing, running along the beach or practicing yoga on the deck. the pool, garden and roof terrace offer private corners in which to hide away with a good book, and a massage can be booked through the villa staff to be enjoyed in the comfort of the villa. With a yearround comfortable climate, and only four hours from the Middle East, Sri Lanka is an ideal choice for a long weekend away, in a private space all of your own. Villasinsrilanka.com
Words: Natascha Hawke
For those who require rest and relaxation through minimal motion,
Lux* Bodrum
Six Senses Zighy Bay in Oman
THE WELLNESS EDIT Treat yourself to a holiday focused on igniting a return to tip-top shape. Lux* Bodrum reopens this month, with the introduction of its new Vitalica Wellness Centre hosting three-, five- or seven-day wellness retreats, that include holistic therapies, clean eating and diagnostic testing, and promise to leave you feeling lighter and more energised (Luxbodrum.com). Closer to home, Six Senses Zighy Bay continues its focus on revitalisation throughout Ramadan, offering rejuvenating spa treatments, designed to nourish both body and soul, along with special Iftars taking place in-room or restaurants (Sixsenses.com). For a little more adventure, head further afield to Brazil to experience Anantara Spa’s latest opening at the Tivoli Ecoresort Praia do Forte on the Bahia coast. Tivoli Ecoresort Praia do Forte, Brazil
The second Anantara Spa in Brazil offers wellness treatments and activities in a tropical rainforest setting (Tivolihotels.com).
The new Hilton Tangier Al Houara Resort & Spa
BAGS OF STYLE Australian accessories label State of Escape introduces a bag line inspired by the beach luxe lifestyle of the One & Only Reethi Rah in the Maldives. Available in a beachy pastel palette and carry-all sizes, they’re a chic addition to every travel junkie’s wardrobe. Shop the collection at Neo boutique at One & Only Reethi Rah or Stateofescape.com.
MAGIC MOROCCO Experience the rich culture of Morocco with a stay at the new Hilton Tangier Al Houara Resort & Spa, which opened in April. Located within a protected national park and on the edge of five kilometres of pristine white sand beach, the hotel promises to give guests the trip of a lifetime, whether on the golf course or in the spa – the largest in Tangier. Hilton.com
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LOCAL ESCAPES
Fashion photographer Anthony Arquier shoots model Paulina Lachnik in the desert at Jumeirah Al Wathba
Views over the desert from the pool villa
JUMEIRAH AL WATHBA Looking to escape the city and get back to nature? The newly-opened Jumeirah Al Wathba Resort and Spa in Abu Dhabi has everything you need for some well-deserved time out from hectic city life. Surrounded by nothing but desert as far as the eye can see, the resort is a rabbit warren of traditional Arabian villas in sandy stone that houses 90 guest rooms, 13 villas, six restaurants, a swimming pool and 1,000 square-metre Talise Spa equipped with Hammam, saunas, jacuzzis and an extensive treatment menu – the perfect equation for complete rejuvenation and some serious downtime. Designed to feel like a small village, complete with alleyways that lead to stairways, that lead to rooftops, all contributing to the feeling of space and privacy – even at 60 per cent capacity it’s rare to bump into other guests while exploring. Marketed as a spa hotel and weekend escape, for active types, an array of traditional Arabian activities are on the itinerary: fat bike riding, archery and a daily falcon show will keep the family entertained when not wallowing out of the heat of the desert sun in the temperaturecontrolled swimming pool. The pool, as with most staycation destinations, is where the majority of guests spend their days. Lined with shaded daybeds and loungers, and with uninterrupted views across the sand dunes, it’s also the perfect spot to watch the sunset. At night, the focus turns to the romantic dining spot of Terra Secca, the Italian restaurant where guests can stargaze from the terrace while eating handmade pasta dishes, fresh burrata cheese and oven -fired pizza in an intimate setting. Turning out to be a popular spot with Abu Dhabi locals, be sure to book in advance to secure a table. Good food, peace and quiet and insanely comfortable beds make a strong case for long weekends spent in the desert. Jumeirah.com
The hotel makes for a chic shoot setting
The hotel offers one of the best places in Abu Dhabi for uninterrupted views of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
SHANGRI-LA QARYAT AL BERI Grand palaces, mosques, and museums might make Abu Dhabi the happening cultural hotspot it is, but its long stretch of shoreline dotted with luxury hotels is an equally viable reason to flock to the UAE’s capital and experience its havens of tranquillity and escape. One such irresistible oasis offering the perfect sunshine getaway is the ShangriLa Qaryat Al Beri. Located on its very own pristine one-kilometre-long private beach, which just so happens to be one of the best places in Abu Dhabi for uninterrupted views of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, it’s all about beachfront luxury at this five-star hotel. From the chaise longue-bedecked beach to the breathtaking infinity pool with its buzzy atmosphere and umbrella’d dining spots, a day spent lazing by either is the ultimate in vacation goals. With 213 rooms and suites, six private villas and 160 serviced apartments all connected by a winding waterway, Abu Dhabi’s Shangri-La is quite the complex. Handily enough, the hotel offers traditional Arabic boats, known as abras, to tour guests around, dropping them off at the souk, where traditionalinspired artefacts, paintings, jewellery and clothes can be perused. Shopping completed, happy hour beckons from the terrace of the VIP lounge where, sundowner in hand, guests can take in the hotel’s impressive architecture and fine Arabic décor as they watch the sun set over the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. A spot of dining at one of the seven outlets followed by an after-dinner stroll through the lush landscaped grounds is the perfect way to end a day well-spent soaking up the sunshine. Shangri-la.com/abudhabi
The hotel’s brand new 100-metre infinity pool lagoon offers Insta-perfect pictures from every angle
PARK HYATT DUBAI Escaping the city whilst being smack-bang in the middle of it sounds like an oxymoron, but that’s exactly what you’ll get if you check in to the Park Hyatt Dubai. Consistently named one the region’s best resort hotels, this award-winning, low-rise luxury bolthole boasts the kind of chilled-out, Mediterranean chic most frequently experienced on the Cote d’Azur, or hopping around the Greek islands. Perched right on the edge of Dubai Creek, with knockout views of the city skyline and a beautiful marina chock-full of megayachts to daydream over, the latest addition to the 223room, 34-suite hotel is a glorious private lagoon, with a pristine white sandy beach and Insta-perfect 100-metre infinity pool. Framed with palm trees, trailing bougainvillea and dotted with private cabanas, split your tanning time between here and the hotel’s stunning 25-metre swimming pool that nestles in lush tropical gardens for the ultimate in jet-set lounger-lazing. If you can drag yourselves away from your poolside paradise, an array of world-class restaurants await, offering a delectable mix of French, Thai and European cuisine. With effortlessly elegant decor – think whitewashed walls, blue and white tiled floors and contemporary cane furniture beneath strings of white fairy lights – New England coastal cool melds with the tranquil allure of Mykonos and just a touch of Arabian exoticism throughout the resort. Rooms are stylish, spacious and ultra-calming, mixing Moorish and Mediterranean design influences, while the award-winning Amara spa offers luxurious beauty treatments in spectacularly tranquil surrounds, where most guests will happily lose themselves for a day of unadulterated pampering. With impeccable service and top-notch staff, it’s a staycation superstar from start to finish. Hyatt.com
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CULTURE EDIT The food at Mix by Alain Ducasse is inspired by Dubai’s melting pot of cultures
MIX BY ALAIN DUCASSE First opened at the tail end of last year, Mix by Alain Ducasse in the Emerald Palace Kempinski Dubai on the Palm Jumeirah has seen its success skyrocket thanks to a sophisticated ambience, otherworldly interior design and, of course, world-class cuisine. A grand space punctuated with a 20-metre tall Fabergé-inspired egg that is Dubai to its very core, sets a rather fabulous scene for a delectable culinary journey through numerous cultures including Asia, Italy and France – the home of the Michelinstar chef – with a healthy twist of flavours inspired by the Middle East. Experimental dishes are the order of the day, all artfully presented in true Michelin style with a touch of Dubai showmanship. A great night out and ever-changing menu that will keep you going back for more.
The gold Fabergé egg-inspired centrepiece
+971 4 248 8860
Pretty tasty treats make Kulture House a go-to
NEW HOTSPOT: KULTURE HOUSE In a nod to the UAE’s Year of Tolerance, there’s a new multi-space venue where cultures reign supreme. Located along the Jumeirah Beach Road, Kulture House is an artisanal café, concept store and art pop-up space inspired by cultural influences from around the world. A renovated Jumeirah villa where creativity and the community is nurtured, the vibrant and bright interiors are as inviting and enriching as the menu itself. The homegrown gem serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner, with flavourful options ranging from all-vegan acai bowls and homemade granola to jalapeño eggs Benedict and labneh shakshuka. 106 Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai; +971 4 399 1790
THE IFTAR EDIT
AL MASHOWA, CITY WALK Located in the heart of City Walk, the flavours and spices of authentic Emirati cuisine await as you devour time-honoured recipes and culinary A look inside Mosques: The 100 Most Iconic Houses of Worship at Maison Assouline
traditions of the UAE; +971 4 5905 455
RELIGIOUS EDUCATION In time for Ramadan, Maison Assouline introduces the photographic tome Mosques: The 100 Most Iconic Islamic Houses of Worship, revealing the most renowned houses of worship across the globe. The book, written by Bernard O’Kane, a professor at the American University of Cairo, brings readers to a gateway of 100 of the world’s most historically significant buildings through beautiful imagery and educational text that study how geometry and the double dome are two inventions that contributed to the architectural splendor of the mosque. Maison Assouline at The Dubai Mall
CARINE, EMIRATES GOLF CLUB Indulge in a slew of French-Mediterranean dishes for Iftar this Ramadan whilst taking in the city’s Marina skyline at Emirates Golf Club; +971 4 4179 999
BOMBAY BRASSERIE, TAJ DUBAI This Ramadan, a gastronomic journey awaits as the flavours of India are celebrated through a diverse range of culinary offerings that are both healthy Scented candles, Fornasetti at Matches Fashion
and hearty; +971 4 438 3222
Room diffuser, Aqua Di Parma Home Collection
CHIC SCENTS FOR HOME
Words: Meeran Mekkaoui
Scent your home with new luxury fragrances from Aqua di Parma,
Scented candle, Ex Nihilo Paris
Ex Nihilo and Fornasetti in the form
COYA, FOUR SEASONS
of potent candles and chic room
One of the city’s award-winning destinations has
diffusers in a myriad of gorgeous
launched a new menu for the Holy Month, where
scents and containers that look as
you’ll be treated to Latin American flavours and
good as they smell.
plenty of mouth-watering dishes; +971 4 316 9600
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Author Leila Aboulela
RAMADAN READS The Holy Month is a time for self-reflection, says Egyptian author Leila Aboulela, so spend it wisely with your head in a good book
In Dubai last month as a guest of the Emirates Literature Foundation to discuss her latest book Bird Summons, award-winning author Leila Aboulela took time out to share her top recommended reads to embark on during Ramadan. Born in Cairo, brought up in Sudan and having spent most of her life travelling between the GCC and Scotland, her own works are informed by these different cultures, her own identity and her Muslim faith. “In Ramadan, I always put fiction away and read non-fiction or poetry,” says Leila. “Ramadan is the time of year when what we read can change our lives forever. By change, I don’t mean a new job, a house-move or a shift in family status. There are deeper and more subtle improvements that can take place inside us such as becoming more patient and less dependent, more grateful and resilient,” she shares. Among her favourite books are the powerful The Autobiography of Malcolm X, The Conferenece of the Birds by Persian poet Farid Attar and One Thousand Roads to Mecca: Ten Centuries of Traveller’s Writings about the Muslim Pilgrimage which she says are “all powerful and inspiring” beneficial reads for the Holy Month. “They are classics that have endured the test of time. People from all over the world, and from different religious backgrounds, can relate to them,” she says. Leila is the author of five books, The Translator, named as a New York Times 100 Notable Books of the Year, The Kindness of Enemies, Minaret and Lyrics Alley. Her newest release, Bird Summons, is a fictional tale of three women on the search for their identities as both Muslims and British immigrants, who embark on a road trip through Scotland – where Leila currently lives – attempting to find a balance between faith, femininity, loyalty, love and sacrifice.
LEILA’S BOOK EDIT
THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF MALCOLM X If you prefer something more modern and political, The Autobiography of Malcolm X as told to Alex Haley is a brilliant read. Malcolm X was one of the most prominent figures of the US civil rights movement. He grew up in poverty, experiencing the severe harshness of racism and for considerable time was separated from his mother when she had a nervous breakdown. As a young adult he entered a life of crime but converted to Islam while he was in prison. Through education and willpower he was able to turn his back on degradation and crime, to become an iconic figure inspiring generation after generation of young African-Americans. The book tells the story of his life in his own words- a moving and powerful account, full of hope and redemption.
THE CONFERENCE OF THE BIRDS The Conference of the Birds by Farid ul Din Attar. This Persian poem is a classic of Muslim literature. The birds of the world gather to choose a leader who would guide them to their king. They choose the Hoopoe bird, but when he tells them about its difficulties, the birds make excuses not to start the journey. When they speak they sound exactly like us. We recognize our own weaknesses in their words. The Hoopoe urges them to set out. He says, ‘’Cast off the shame of narcissism… Surrender your ego and step into the Path, cross that threshold dancing.’’ Not all of the birds embark on the journey. Out of those who do, many die on the way. The journey, as the Hoopoe did warn, is full of hazards. At the end, only thirty birds reach the King’s court and what they find there is truly amazing. There are many editions of The Conference of the Birds. Some are easier to read than others. There are also children’s versions of the tale with beautiful illustrations.
ONE THOUSAND ROADS TO MECCA Ramadan is often the time when people start preparing to go on Haj. Before setting out, it is useful to read about the experiences of others who had made the journey before us. Even if we are not intended to go on Haj or have been already, this book edited by Michael Wolfe is a fascinating collection. One Thousand Roads to Mecca: Ten Centuries of Traveller’s Writings about the Muslim Pilgrimage is full of history and lived experiences. There is Ibn Battuta’s adventures in the Middle Ages and in the 19th century the British explorer Richard Burton goes to Mecca in disguise. There are the memories of an Indian princess, a slave and many ordinary people. They travel by camels, trains and planes to answer Allah’s call to His house in Mecca, “the navel of the earth.”
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Photography: Borna Ahadi
MOJEH CULTURE
In contrast to her fashion label’s bold, mixed-up aesthetic, Mariam’s Dubai home is an intentionally muted, calming space
Life & Style Mrs.Keepa’s real-life alter ego, Mariam Yeya, invites MOJEH into her Jumeirah Islands home to talk multiple house moves, maximum wardrobe space and minimal décor decisions Words by Lucy Wildman
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croll through fashion designer Mariam Yeya’s Instagram account – the woman behind one of the region’s most buzzed-about fashion labels, Mrs Keepa – and it’s rare to see a minimalist aesthetic anywhere. Visit her home in Jumeirah Islands, however, and it’s all about the calm and collected. “My daily life is so full of intense colour and print, and vibrant people and places, that my home needs to be quiet and neutral. This place gives me headspace,” she explains. Having lived in Dubai for 13 years, the French-Egyptian designer has moved around the city with relative regularity. But her current home – which she shares with husband, Bassel, and their children Isabelle Lilly, aged four, and two-and-a-half year-old Noah – has been the one she’s stayed in the longest. “I’ve moved house seven times since I arrived in Dubai,” Mariam tells us, curled up in the corner of a mashmallow-
soft sofa. “We’ve been here for four years, but we’re moving again in the summer – so I’m in full-on house hunting mode right now!” Keen to move closer to her Dubai Design District atelier, 36-year-old Mariam has big plans for her family’s next UAE domain, which she hopes will be somewhere in the new Al Wasl Square, or close to the beach in Jumeirah. “I’m not very strong with interior design,” reveals Mariam, who believes all of her artistic prowess has been funnelled into fashion. “We’ve moved a lot, and I always get bored with whatever interiors I do, so I never think about investing in wallpaper or big furniture or expensive pieces, because I know I’m quickly going to be fed up with looking at it.” But that’s all set to change, or at least, that’s Mariam’s intention. “I do like my home as it is right now – lots of white and cream, with wood and just a few accents of neutral
Mariam’s most-treasured piece is her wooden stag head, fondly named Monsieur Le Gazel
Above: The dining table where Mariam’s family has spent the “best times in our house”. Below: Her impeccably-organised accessories act as artwork
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I’d love to live in a Gucci house, that’s 100 per cent eclectic and totally mixed-up: something that truly reflects my style DNA. Mariam Yeya
Mariam wears a blouse and skirt by Mrs.Keepa
Mariam’s enviable designer shoe collection
colour in the rugs and cushions. I guess it’s quite bohemian, which complements my personal style, but certainly doesn’t reflect it,” she says. A clear sign of her innate, eclectic tastes, Mariam’s current bedroom – an impeccable all-white haven filled with natural light and floor-to-ceiling mirrored wardrobes to increase the sense of space – is set for a dramatic fashion makeover once Mariam moves to her new home. “I’m desperate to change the look of my bedroom, so I’m currently window shopping for furniture,” she reveals. “I would love to live in a Gucci-style house, that’s 100 per cent eclectic and totally mixed-up. In our next place, I’m going to have the boudoir of my dreams, which truly reflects my style DNA. Lots of clashing contradictions: wallpaper that has nothing to do with the rug, or the bedlinen or the furniture. It’s going to be a test to see if I can tolerate it for a long period or not. Again, it’s a question of me getting bored, and investing in a look I may tire of a few months down the line. But if I’m okay with it, maybe the rest of the house will get the same treatment.” As she searches for her eigth Dubai property, Mariam’s professional life is also undergoing a period of transformation. Currently working on her cruise collection, which launches just after Ramadan, whilst finishing her A/W19 line, she’s midway through producing Mrs.Keepa S/S20, which will make it’s Paris Fashion Week debut in September. “Things are really busy right now,” smiles Mariam, whose daily routine begins at 6am. “I get up, work out with my personal trainer, get the kids ready, and drop them to school and nursery. Then I drive to the atelier to meet clients, get into the workshop and oversee quality control as well as doing any paperwork. After that, I attend any meetings or events. I’ll leave there around 3pm, get some lunch, get back into mummy mode and then it’s me and the kids at home, where I like to continue with my design work. Any spare time I get during the week, I want to spend at home with my family.” As far as hanging out at home goes, Mariam likes nothing more than chilling out with Netflix and a coffee in the living room – her favourite room in the house. “This is where I spend most of my time with my family, quality time. It’s where I can relax and be myself, and just enjoy my husband and my kids on our sofa.” And it’s the living room that’s central to weekend activities too. “We’ve always got people
Clockwise from below: A painting gifted to Mariam by an Egyptian artist is the focal point of her dressing table; The lounge area of her bedroom was converted to create this impressive open wardrobe; the designer’s style signature, her glasses, take pride of place
over, so the dining table gets a lot of use. Bearing in mind that I don’t really get attached to houses or decorations or furniture, I really love this dining table, because it’s always the focus of the best of times in our house. We’ve spent a lot of time at this table with the people we love the most.” And while Mariam says she isn’t emotionally connected to any items of décor she owns, there’s one she simply couldn’t call a place home without. “Monsieur Le Gazel oversees everything that goes on in this house,” laughs Mariam, pointing to the wooden stag head that hangs proudly above the huge sofa chosen by Mariam’s husband. “He’s much better with proportions of furniture than I am. Nothing I choose ever fits.” Monsieur Le Gazel was the man in Mariam’s life before she met Bassel. “I got him about nine years ago, when I was single and surviving in Dubai on my own,” she tells us. “He was the best companion. When I was feeling really lonely, or having a low point, wondering what on earth I was doing here, or having one of those ups and downs with work or relationships or whatever, I’d just sit there and talk to him: he’s a good listener. He’s lived with me in maybe five places now, and he’s a really important element in the house, and the family. Wherever we go, he goes.” With the whole house painted white – which “makes it much easier to deal with when the kids start drawing on the walls” – while the downstairs of their family villa is a neutral-toned sanctuary, upstairs is a multicoloured treasure trove that’s all about Mariam and her fouryear-old daughter Isabelle’s passion for fashion. Mariam and Bassel’s all-white master bedroom is accessed
through her walk-in closet, which was converted from the lounge area of the couple’s bedroom to accommodate her vast clothing collection. With garments hung in specific categories, and shoes displayed carefully on two full walls of white shelving, the room is like a mini Mrs. Keepa boutique. Two huge mirrored wardrobes hold yet more of the designer’s season and colour-categorised clothing in the main bedroom, while her beloved collection of sunglasses – her style trademark – are displayed on yet more open shelving as you enter the room, along with a treasured number of handbags. “I do let Bassel have some wardrobe space, but admittedly, I’ve taken up most of it,” she smiles. Passing on the sartorial genes, daughter Isabelle’s bedroom is dominated by two rails of cute, colourful outfits, all of which are curated by her budding fashionista daughter. “On the weekend, she likes me to help create looks for her to wear and go out in. She’s very creative with her wardrobe,” says Mariam. Despite there being no paintings anywhere, aside from a work gifted to her by an Egyptiant artist that sits on her dressing table, dozens of photographs of friends and family are dotted around the house, bringing life to every room. “I’m not much of an art collector,” says Mariam, admitting she’s never bought into any significant galleried piece for her home. “My likes are clothes and shopping.” she explains. “I really appreciate fashion, and I believe it’s timeless, so if I have a beautiful vintage coat or gown thats too fabulous to put in the wardrobe, I’m more likely to hang that on the wall as my choice of artwork.”
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THE WOW FACTOR Bulgari’s magnificent high jewellery Musa watch in pink gold with mother-of-pearl, amethyst, diamonds and alligator bracelet is a once-in-a-lifetime investment – and a gift that will keep on giving.
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
FINAL NOTE
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