ISSUE 70

N°70 2019

THE STYLE REPORT

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18 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Print Sales Manager RABIH EL TURK

Managing Editor NATASCHA HAWKE

Digital Sales Manager ZENA LOUAY

Deputy Editor LUCY WILDMAN

Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE

Acting Fashion & Beauty Editor DINA KABBANI

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Contributing Editors ELAINE LLOYD-JONES HAFSA LODI KELLY BALDWIN GEMMA DEEKS KATE WILLS

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Contributing Photographers RICARDO RIVERA INA LEKIEWICZ LARA JADE BORNA AHADI TINA PATNI

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LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Tel: +971 4 425 86 00 Email: louis@louisfourteen.com

Guest Fashion Stylists JULIE BROOKE WILLIAMS ANNA HUGHES-CHAMBERLAIN CONNIE BERG STUART ROBERTSON

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

ART Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN

Cover photographed by Ricardo Rivera Model Mayara at The Identity, New York wears KENZO

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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ALL THE LOVERS

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Stella and Taylor join fashion forces on their first exclusive collaboration

CHANEL’S WINTERFELL In what would become Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection for the French fashion house, MOJEH takes a closer look at the poignant, snowy swan song that marked the end of one magnificent era, and the beginning of another...

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CINDY BRUNA

84

Talking exclusively to MOJEH, French Supermodel Cindy

Bruna reveals why keeping it real is the key to keeping her head in the increasingly frenetic fashion world

ALL CHANGE As the autumn/winter 19 collections arrive in store, MOJEH reveals how the region’s fashion experts will be wearing the season’s must-have new looks

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98

THE SEASON AHEAD

176

From statement shoulders and sequins for day, to

pretty-but-not florals, here’s your indispensable guide to the breakout trends of AW19

A GIRL FOR ALL SEASONS Luxury knitwear, tweed, parka jackets and cycling shorts make for a transeasonal final collection from Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld

188

SETTING THE TONE

222

An autumnal palette infused with vintage prints in

a structural form is the perfect balance between

strength and tactile femininity

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE Though Coco Chanel never visited Russia, she fell in love with its people and culture from afar. It’s this passion that informs the maison’s latest high jewellery collection, Le Paris Russe de Chanel

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BACKSTAGE BEAUTY REPORT An insouciant red lip, neon flashes, and messy,

272

tousled waves – here are the beauty trends that blew

up on the autumn 2019 catwalks

SCRATCH THE SURFACE With World Atopic Eczema day taking place on September 14, MOJEH reveals the groundbreaking new treatment changing the lives of sufferers across the UAE

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IT’S A KIND OF MAGIC

286

Searching for a hedonistic or holistic holiday, the natural luxury and free spirit of Ibiza, will leave you nothing but satisfied

X MARKS THE MASTER COLLABORATOR In celebration of Louis Vuitton’s latest exhibition, Louis Vuitton X, MOJEH journeys through the fashion house’s array of artistic pursuits

LUCKY MOVE COLLECTION

26

EDITOR’S LETTER

Photography: Lara Jade

BE INSPIRED Welcome to MOJEH’s September issue, a 300-page reveal of the very best of the autumn/winter 2019 collections, collaborations and high jewellery presentations.

In this issue there’s an abundance of inspiration, from the region’s style leaders to women changing the face of the fashion industry, starting with our exclusive interview with French supermodel Cindy Bruna (page 80). The first model of colour to walk Calvin Klein’s show in 2012, Cindy has seen firsthand how the industry is changing for the better. “You see a lot of diversity now, both in magazines and catwalk shows, which is truly amazing, and I’m really happy to be representing that change of mindset,” she tells us. “Diversity is exactly what makes fashion inspirational and beautiful.”

Incredible clothes are, of course, also at the heart of the industry, our biannual catwalk report, The Season Ahead on page 98, breaks down the latest trends to help you get dressed, and in All Change on page 84 the region’s style dictators tell us what they’re telling you to wear this season; from a fashion buyer to a stylist, it seems Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta is the undisputed frontrunner for those in-the-know. of wisdom from the late, great Karl Lagerfeld.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photography by Hana Levan

With hundreds of pages of fashion inspiration, we close the issue with some final words

CALIBER RM 07-01

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SPOTLIGHT ON...

Autumn/winter 2019’s most coveted bags are timeless triumphs you’ll carry again and again Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson

Aby Lock bag, CHLOÉ

32

Boxyz bag, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Sacabar bag, HERMÈS

34

Panier bag, PRADA

36

Spider Jewelled Satchel, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

19 bag, CHANEL

38

Lady Dior ‘Diorviera’, DIOR

40

Harryet bag, BALLY

Cassette bag, BOTTEGA VENETA

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Eden, GIVENCHY

STYLE EDIT

HATS OFF TO AW19 Big shoulders, big hats, plaid prints, it’s all going on.

Here’s MOJEH’s need-to-know guide to the season ahead NINA RICCI

44 CELINE

THE RETURN OF OLD CELINE He may have begun by completely disconnecting from the

INSIDE A/W19

design DNA of his predecessors, but for his third collection at Celine, Hedi Slimane brought back the very essence of the historic French house, long before Phoebe Philo or even Michael Kors took the reins. Gone were his signature rock ‘n’ roll gals, who transitioned with him from Saint Laurent; this time, the woman on his runway was a Parisian sophisticat, effotlessly chic and infinitely glamourous, plucked straight from the Celine archives in all her retro glory. Dressed somewhere between the mid-Seventies and Eighties, she emerged in variations of roomy culottes, gentrified check skirts with horse-bit belts, printed logo scarves and a glossy high boot that’s bound to top every wish-list come autumn.

LANVIN

ONES TO WATCH First runs at infamous fashion houses are like a game of poker, with bets placed on the new artistic director’s chosen route.

Will they redefine the brand, or take a risk and go rogue?

This season, the catwalks were rife with new blood; Louise Trotter at Lacoste, Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin, and Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta. The results? Ambitious debuts excellently executed with a plentiful harvest of pieces eager to please – a promising start that has fashion’s front row looking forward to that notoriously difficult follow-up collection for SS20.

Photography: GoRunway.com | Words: Dina Kabbani

LACOSTE

SEW IN LOVE Pierpaolo Piccioli offered a new notion on poetic fashion at Valentino this season, teaming up with poets Robert Montgomery, Greta Bellamacina, Mustafa The Poet, and Yrsa Daley-Ward to create a specially-created book titled Valentino on Love. Given to guests of the show, the book featured works from each poet on the deepest of topics: love, which the designer took excerpts from and embroidered or printed on the hems of coats, tulle dresses and the linings of bags and boots – a romantic keepsake for Valentino wearers everywhere this autumn.

VALENTINO

DOUBLE IMPACT The belt bag of recent seasons gets a mighty makeover in muted, streamlined, twin-pocketed versions; over-the-top guises that offer double the function as well as convenience – ideal for those who hate travelling light.

PALM ANGELS

JACQUEMUS

MAX MARA

46 VERSACE

BACK TO BASICS Looking back to move forward was Versace’s clear goal this season, as Donatella dived deep into the archives and resurfaced with new takes on past favourites.

Re-working some of the label’s most famous designs and silhouettes in a more contemporary light, she revived the legendary safety pins of 1994, adding an electrifying punch to the Versace classic. House codes were also redressed, taking on the grunge spirit in all its body-con glory; from sexy bondage harnesses over schoolgirl tweed, to thigh-high stockings under lacey slips and distressed cardigans worn with raw-edged for Versace, baroque and roll is what it’s all about.

Blue and green should always be seen at Jacquemus AW19 show during PFW

SPOTLIGHT ON: JACQUEMUS When you’re fashion’s hippest wonderboy, it’s only natural to want to break the mold accasionally. Autumn/winter ’19 was Simon Porte Jacquemus’ chance to prove there is more to his muse than the sultry sexiness frequently seen stalking his catwalk. Showcased in Place Jacquemus, a speciallycreated town square of charming multi-coloured houses complete with laundry hanging out to dry, Simon displayed an urban take on the rural French girl. With an overall utilitarian theme and a heavy emphasis on practicality, workwear-inspired looks plastered with cargo pockets and oversized skirt-and-sweater combinations were key, deconstructed through a contemporary frame of reference. Despite feeling distinctly more masculine than previous collections, it was still very Jacquemus; his signature Provençal inspirations coming to life in pops of sunflower yellow and brighter-than-bougainvillea pink, or in nostalgic nods to his childhood with family snapshots of himself and his mother dangling from earrings.

But as with all of his collections, accessories were the real showstoppers, with a downsized version of the Jacquemus It bag, Le Saq Chiquito – an irresistibly cute micro mini – that made the biggest of impacts on his AW19 countryside catwalk.

Photography: GoRunway.com, Getty Images /Richard Bord

mini skirts. Gritty and spirited yet ultra-glam, as ever

SCULPTURAL JEWELLERY

ACNE STUDIOS

There’s a new energy surrounding jewellery.

With sustainability taking over design agendas, it’s all about buying forever pieces. Enter the contemporary statement earring – bold, oversized and twisted into abstract shapes (see Acne Studios, Sacai), they are impossible to slip by unnoticed.

From surreal designs to architectural interpretations considered more modern art than jewellery, these conversation instigators will remain impressive even after the season has been and gone.

GIVENCHY

STOMPING GROUND Replacing last season’s hiking boot, meet AW19’s platform bovver boot. Wear to toughen up everything from pretty floral dresses and mini skirts to matchy-matchy oversized suits.

2 1

3 1. LOUIS VUITTON | 2. MIU MIU at MYTHERESA | 3. GUCCI

ANTONIO MARRAS

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Aby day bag in grained deerskin and shiny calfskin

THE CULT BUY Chloé has a new bag, and it’s set to be a sellout.

Meet the Aby, an impossibly chic tote demonstrating everything the French fashion house loves in its accessories: butter-soft upholstery, shiny gold hardware and vintage-inspired colour palette.

Available in two sizes and finishes – supple grained deerskin or shiny calfskin – it boasts the iconic gold CHLOÉ

The Fendi AW19 finale

FENDI’S FAREWELL Working alongside the Fendi family from 1965 right up until his death in February of this year, Karl Lagerfeld’s unwavering vision made Fendi one of fashion’s most authoritative powerhouses. Taking what was once a highly-polished Roman maison and embedding it with his own DNA, Karl infused classics with a sportier, more relaxed attitude through what became his style signatures, like the high-neck Edwardian collared shirts so central to his personal aesthetic.

This season, saw an elegant return to the house’s roots, particularly poignant as it was to be Karl’s Fendi swansong. Tailoring and a mainly neutral palette set the tone for the collection, where the classic shirt took centre stage in numerous incarnations: white crisp cotton, tucked into trousers; paired with asymmetric pleated skirts; worn half-undone or tied into a bow.

There were double-breasted coats, buttery leather trenches and the house’s signature (although highly contentious) furs – everything you would expect from a Fendi show, except for Karl himself. A fitting farewell from one of fashion’s greatest creative minds.

padlock to make it instantly recognisable and a timeless, structured style that promises longevity.

EDITOR’S FAVOURITE Confident and a relevant expression of femininity in our present time, Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen for autumn was a hallmark of dark romance, pulsating with inventive tailoring and the most extraordinary couture.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

PRADA

LOVE & WAR Because love can be a battleground, especially in tough times like these, Miuccia Prada showcased beautiful, bad romance with a military subplot. Decked in black dresses with bustier bodices and a look of undone armour, her army of Prada warrior goddesses for AW19 pitched beauty against ugliness, the familiar with the unexpected, and the feminine with the masculine – a modern romantic message to combat the harshness of our times.

Photography: GoRunway.com. Getty Images / Jacopo Raule. Words: Dina Kabbani

PACO RABANNE

LESSONS IN LAYERING When Gucci’s Alessandro Michele first dabbled in maximalist layering, he opened the floodgates for rulebreaking fashion pairings. A pussybow with Chinese silk bomber jacket? Lace mashed with prints and oversized accessories? Why not. This season get experimental with your layering in mismatched prints, contrasting textures and unlikely print combinations.

Look to Paco Rabanne for style inspiration.

From left: LOEWE ar NET-A-PORTER; SOLACE LONDON at BROWNS FASHION

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THE COLLAB Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli showcased his second collection for Moncler Genius, with twelve padded evening dresses decorated in bold prints by African model and designer Liya Kebede. One of nine designers invited to reinterpret the outdoor clothing company’s renowned down jackets, alongside Simone Rocha and Richard Quinn, the floor-length colourful puffa gowns are technical

triumphs.

We

never

knew

we needed quilted couture until now.

Moncler, The Dubai Mall; Moncler.com

WALES BONNER

ROKSANDA

REJINA PYO

LONDON’S LEADING LADIES Amid its current politically-charged climate, the message on the London runways for autumn/winter ’19 was clear: keep calm and carry on. Roksanda Ilincic, Rejina Pyo and Grace Wales Bonner (who hadn’t staged a fashion show in over a year) brought context and confidence to their clothes, proving that amidst all of Britain’s current volatility, its female fashion stars were uncompromised and full of self-expression.

Photography: GoRunway.com. Words: Dina Kabbani; Gemma Deeks

MONCLER PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI

FASHION VOTES FOR FUN

CROC ATTACK

The catwalk is frequently seen as a political barometer, and with so much tension taking

Perfectly in tune with this season’s

place in state offices across the globe, an array of designers offered a welcome break from

’70s vibe, mock croc brings ladylike

the grim reality of governmental goings-on with tongue-in-cheek collections. Never one to

glamour back with its faux finish

shy away from fun, at Moschino, Jeremy Scott sent Kaia Gerber down the runway dressed

in nostalgic vintage tones.

head-to-toe in dollar bills; Christopher Kane followed suit with subtly suggestive slogans that added a provocative edge to his show, while at Thom Browne, portraits of Lady Una Troubridge by gender-bending artist Romaine Brooks appeared on a hybrid dress/tuxedo decorated in beautiful beading – flamboyant, frivolous, and ever-so-slighty controversial.

CHYLAK

CHRISTOPHER KANE

THOM BROWNE

DANSE LENTE

CELINE

JOSEPH at THE MODIST

THE LEATHER TRENCH It’s no surprise that leather is having a major moment this autumn, but statement outerwear is the real hero of this trend – with a leather trench the ultimate trophy piece. Daniel Lee’s innovative laser-cut coat was spotted at Bottega Veneta and Ami Paris’ belted patent leather number was on BOTTEGA VENETA

every editor’s wish list. We’re eagerly anticipating a European getaway to wear one.

WANDLER at MODA OPERANDI

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BALANCING ACT From street to chic, Riccardo Tisci proposed two radically different worlds at Burberry.

Following a sophomore collection that saw the creative director convey a personal perspective of the touchstones of British culture, this season Riccardo tightened his vision for the house, focusing on the importance of “including, not excluding.” An ode to the youth of the ‘Cool Britannia’ era and ’90s anti-establishment, models were dressed in deconstructed rugby shirts crafted into dresses; bustier tops (à la Vivienne Westwood) fitted over neat polo shirts; lingerie-like dresses with bold graphic prints; and variations of the classic Burberry check in a myriad line of outwear. He followed it all with a slew of chic beige formalwear, pieces most likely reserved for his more mature and financially astute audience, that included a series of deconstructed trenches, buttery leather skirts, fine knitwear, branded blankets and scarves designed for chilly winter days. A balancing act of sorts? Without question. A clever collection created to keep both box-fresh Burberry fans

BURBERRY

and die-hard brand devotees equally happy.

STILL HERE: TIE DYE Instead of shopping tartan for winter, consider dipping into rainbow prints, as tie dye splashes over from spring to autumn.

BOONTHESHOP at MODA OPERANDI

ROKSANDA at NET-A-PORTER

RAEY at MATCHES FASHION

SUSTAINABILITY 101

BLOCK-BUSTER BUYS VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Bridge the seasons beautifully by adding multicoloured stripes to autumn’s closet of neutrals.

A bright sweater makes a standalone statement, but paired with a bold accessory, it gives a vivid colour combo exciting new fashion legs.

ACNE STUDIOS

MISSONI at NET-A-PORTER

ATTICO

Photography: GoRunway.com

GABRIELA HEARST

STELLA MCCARTNEY

E FOR ENVIRONMENT As style and sustainability become the industry’s most compelling power couple, ecofriendly messages took over for AW19; from Gabriela Hearst’s dip-dyed sweaters, handknitted by the Manos de Uruguay collective, to Stella McCartney’s subtle eco-campaigning via temporary tattoos championing veganism, anti-fur and love for planet earth.

LOEWE

54

ALL THE LOVERS

I

nspired by her 7th studio album, Lover, Stella McCartney has collaborated with friend and fellow animal-lover Taylor Swift on an exclusive capsule collection.

Comprising two limited edition Stella McCartney pieces, along with a selection of official Stella x Taylor Swift album merchandise, the collaboration marks a celebration of friendship – the two are longtime fans of one another’s work – and an array of shared favourite things.

Looking to vintage graffitti, band tees, nostalgic memorabilia and song lyrics from Taylor’s latest album, the singer’s Instafamous cat, Benjamin Button, also makes an appearance on the exclusive range.

In keeping with Stella’s environmentally friendly ethos, and maintaining her role as a leader in fashion sustainability, the limited-edition Stella McCartney bomber jacket is made of sustainable viscose with an airbrushed heart and glass rhinestone detailing, while the handbag has been

Bomber jacket and handbag, STELLA X TAYLOR SWIFT

crafted from from oyster-hued Eco AlterNappa leather, which contains recycled polyester and oils from vegetables, and is solvent-free. Meanwhile, the album merchandise features limited-edition t-shirts, sweatshirts, jackets and bags, with all jersey in the collection made from sustainable organic cotton and, true to Stella’s spirit, a reusable water bottle made of recycled plastics. A huge supporter of Stella’s pioneering work in the field of sustainability, multi-award-winning artist Taylor worked hard with Stella and her design team to ensure all pieces were created not only with an environmentallyfriendly focus, but also with an affordable price tag, making it as accessible as possible to her legion of dedicated young fans.. With more collaborations between the sustainable fashion-focused pair already rumoured, expect to see more from Taylor and Stella in the months to come.

Stellamccartney.com

Photography: Mary McCartney

Stella and Taylor join fashion forces on their first exclusive collaboration

THE COLLABORATIONS Words: Lisa Armstrong/The Telegraph/The Interview People

“HAPPINESS DOESN’T COME IN ENDLESS CHUNKS” Alber Elbaz – the most likeable man in fashion – on copycats, imposter syndrome and his career comeback Words by Lisa Armstrong

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A

fter Alber Elbaz was fired in 2015 from Lanvin, he couldn’t go near a sketchbook or pick up a piece of fabric for at least a year. “It was traumatic,” he says of the bruising experience that saw the label he’d rebuilt, the new languid fashion language he’d created, and the amicable, fruitful relationship he’d fostered with Lanvin’s majority shareholder Shaw-Lan Wang, eviscerated one by one. “But they can’t take away your brain,” he says, mopping his forehead and ordering what I order (icy lemon juice – it’s 31 degrees celsius outside). So he hit the lecture circuit – illustrious fashion schools such as Central St Martins in London and Parsons in New York, and industry gatherings, opening his talks in his unmistakable rich accent by introducing himself as homeless and jobless, and launching into a unique monologue – part insider’s view, part cosy philosophy.

We’re sitting in Hotel Meurice in Paris, a fancy rendez-vous for a hobo. But he was only ever homeless in so far as no longer having a fashion house to call his own. His apartment, near the Musée d’Orsay, wasn’t snatched from him, although for a long time, he didn’t want to be there, preferring to travel the world instead.

It’s not that he didn’t get other offers – although to lose your job at 54, as he was then, is hard enough in any field, let alone one predicated on the newest and the latest. But none really excited him. There were a few collaborations – a hair perfume with Frédéric Malle, a range of nylon bags for LeSportsac, some make-up for Lancôme, and now this, a line of colourful bags and shoes for Tod’s.

Pink metallic leather loafers, Happy Moments by Alber Elbaz for TOD’s

Launched in Paris in July with a party and a teaser video featuring Alber goofing around with some models, and landing in stores this month, it’s his highest profile venture so far, and he says, probably his last collaboration. “I have huge respect for Diego Della Valle (the Italian founder and CEO of Tod’s) and the craftspeople he keeps employed. People in cities walk more and more. Roads are being pedestrianised, so shoes are the ultimate smart car. And comfort is the definition of modern elegance.” Not, he notes, that anyone talks about elegance anymore. “It’s one of those words that’s gone out of style, like chic.”

But bags? The last time we met, shortly before he left Lanvin, he intimated that the insistence of CEOs everywhere that designers’ creative energies be redirected towards minting endless ‘It’ bags had disillusioned him. “Yes! And look how small bags are now. People have pockets, and everything’s on their phones.”

The shoes he’s designed for Tod’s are flat pumps – a nod to the pliable leather ballerina cult he created at Lanvin, but with those distinctive rubber bobbles (gomini) on the sole and made from leather-trimmed Neoprene. “I was really intrigued by the idea of doing a kind of Spanx for the feet,” he explains.

Does that mean they make your feet look thinner? He laughs. He’s a rueful obsessive when it comes to his weight.

“The problem is... I love food. I’m an addictive person.”

He plans to launch his own womenswear label, “although how to make it relevant now that it’s all about sneakers?” I suspect elegant comfort will play a huge part. One CEO told him that by 2024 there will be 600 million millennials in China alone. “And as Monsieur Saint Laurent said, no one needs a fancy dress until after 30. So you have to approach fashion in a different way. Maybe linking with tech.”

One of the many techies he met during his time out was Instagram’s co-founder, Kevin Systrom, who asked him why he wasn’t on the social media platform, “I explained I only have good friends, not photogenic friends, and I like to eat pizza rather than photograph it.”

He succumbed to Instagram eventually.

“I’m not Mother Theresa – and I was receiving so many messages of love from people in the industry, I wanted to stay in touch,” he says. When he talks about fashion love you wonder whether he’s gone sentimental. But he means it. He is worldly and sophisticated but charmingly uncynical about some things and always designed beautiful, timeless clothes that made women feel good about themselves because they weren’t just about being thin or young. So why wouldn’t everyone love him?

He never really appreciated this at the time.

“I thought the good reviews were because people felt sorry for me.” Surely the fact that Saint Laurent personally chose him as his successor at the house when

Metallic leather loafers, Happy Moments by Alber Elbaz for TOD’s

“

When you get it right, you look at the way someone’s body language changes, when they like what they see in the mirror. It’s magical!

Alber Elbaz

he retired in 1998 gave him confidence? “Not at all.”

When he called his mother to tell her the news she said, “That’s great Alber. But when are you getting married?”

“I’d say the whole basis of my career is lack of confidence.”

He grins. “Don’t go away with the idea I had this terrible childhood. My parents, my upbringing, my school – it was all wonderful”.

His first ambition was to be a doctor, and he sees fashion, which he still loves, as medicine for the body. “When you get it right, you look at the way someone’s body language changes when they like what they see in the mirror, it’s magical.”

One client told him that every time she wore one of his designs a man fell in love with her. Every time? “Well, she didn’t have so many... so I said to her, I’m going to make you a dress that makes you fall in love. And you know what? She asked me, ‘What’s the difference?’”

He’s called the Tod’s collaboration Happy Moments, “because I’ve realised that’s how happiness is. It doesn’t come in endless chunks. If we’re really getting into the business of emotions, then one thing I’ve learned in these four years is that respect is more important than love. You can’t love everyone, but you can treat them with respect.”

The seamstresses at Lanvin, whom he adored (and respected), thought he was trying to get rid of them because he was always trying to eradicate seams from his dresses. He will never give up on the human hand. “I told them it’s not you, it’s the seams. I don’t know why, but I don’t like them.” The process of subtraction was all part of making clothes minimalist yet sensual, “like a hug.” Often it would take 14 or more iterations

to get to the perfect piece. “That’s why they cost what they did. It wasn’t just about some fancy fabric. It was the work, the ideas, the thought processes.”

So when he’s asked about all the copyists in fashion, he answers with both barrels. “I know the correct thing is to say how flattering – but no, making a cheap copy without any of the integrity, it’s not ok.” Yet at Lanvin he produced a Lanvin for H&M collection. “That’s allowed... when I’m ripping off myself. Picasso said the good artist copies and the great artist steals.” What does that mean in practical terms, I ask.

“It’s like this lemon juice. I order what you order and I’m copying. But if I add honey, or sprinkle on some chocolate, I’ve created something new.” Stand by.

White crocodile printed leather loafers, Happy Moments by Alber Elbaz for TOD’s

THE PIECE

58

IN FULL BLOOM A breathtaking moment at Paris Fashion Week, Sarah Burton sent gowns resembling giant roses down Alexander McQueen’s AW19 catwalk. The finale look, a magnificent creation of saturated crimson silk taffeta, represented a rose in full bloom, with a fitted tucked bodice exploding into a draped full skirt with petal folds. Stitched, pleated and seamed before being molded and draped, the huge piece of fabric dictated what the dress became. Referencing the Red Rose of Lancaster, from Medieval England’s War of the Roses, along with literary heroines from the novels of the Brontë sisters, other influences came from the creative director’s homeland of Cheshire in the north of England, where crowning a local girl Rose Queen every spring is a time-honoured tradition.

L.A. STYLE Available exclusively in Dubai at contemporary retail concept American Rag Cie, Kendall Jenner’s autumn capsule collaboration with Australian denim label Ksubi channels the model’s off-duty style with a selection of distressed denim and laid-back separates.

KENDAL JENNER X KSUBI

BLAZER, TROUSERS AND BROGUES, AMI PARIS

FOR THE WOMEN French label AMI has debuted its first womenswear collection, after being inspired by how Parisian women incorporate their muchloved menswear pieces into their wardrobes. For AW19, designer Alexandre Maittussi has created an entire women’s collection using the same fabrics as menswear, but with more feminine cuts and voluminous shapes. Amiparis.com

SUSTAINABLE SWIM Stella

McCartney

has

unveiled

her

autumn/winter 2019 swimwear collection with a selection of athletic-style swimsuits and twopieces featuring iconic prints inspired by her ready-to-wear collections. From polka dots and studded stars to monogram patterns, the classically-inspired pieces are designed to flatter all body-shapes and make women feel their best.

A timeless addition to your swimwear drawer, with the brand’s commitment to sustainability, the collection uses innovative and recycled materials made from ocean fishing nets and textile waste.

BIKINI AND SWIMSUIT, STELLA MCCARTNEY

THE JEWELS

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Bracelet, ring and earrings, MESSIKA PARIS

SHE WILL ROCK YOU Messika Paris’ new campaign for the Lucky Move collection stars the ultimate fashion icon, and Valérie Messika’s muse, Kate Moss.

Chosen as one of three strong women, alongside Joan Smalls and Silvia Hoeks, for her ability to “influence diamonds”, she represents the core values of Messika jewellery — you wear the jewels, they don’t wear you.

At Messika, The Dubai Mall KATE MOSS FOR MESSIKA

Earrings, THE O JEWELLERY

Earrings, MARMARI

ARTIST’S APPROACH

SHINE BRIGHT

Designed by Emirati visual artist Shamsa Al Omaira,

Moroccan-Egyptian Nouran el Marmari, granddaughter of

The O Jewellery launches its new collection this month,

jewellery pioneer Mohamed el Marmari, founded her label after

showcasing delicate pieces inspired by different forms of art,

training at the Gemological Institute of America. Designed with

including sculpture, painting, printmaking and photography.

fun and positivity in mind using brightly-coloured gemstones,

The collection is dedicated to women and their many facets,

her pieces aim to make a woman’s beauty shine brighter without

with rings, bangles and earrings highlighted in pearls, diamonds

eclipsing her. The latest collection, Attraction, features rubys,

and twists of golden ribbon. Theojewelry.com

which are said to inspire passion. Marmari.com

THE MOMENT Saint Laurent’s AW19 collection lit up Paris (and social media) Anthony Vaccarello’s collection truly shone this season, with glow-in-the-dark dresses, shoes and sunglasses that illuminated the SaintLaurentcatwalkinPariswithneonandreflective fabrics, punctuated with marabou feather trim.

Tech activations were a talking point during fashion week, and his ’80s-inspired collection sent Instagram into a frenzy with a finale of seemingly floating fashion paraded against a mirrored backdrop. Ultra-violet and ultra-fabulous.

SAINT LAURENT

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Cara Delevingne, Karl’s close friend and Chanel muse, opened and closed the AW19 show

In what would become Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection for the French fashion house, MOJEH takes a closer look at the poignant, snowy swan song that marked the end of one magnificent era, and the beginning of another...

Words by Elaine Lloyd-Jones

Photography: Benoit Peverelli, Getty Images

T

wo weeks before the Chanel autumn/winter’19 show, on February 19, Karl Lagerfeld passed away at the age of 85. He had been at the helm of Chanel for 30 years. But, mirroring the German designer’s exemplary work ethic, the show went on, delivering his vision and exploring the far reaches of his limitless imagination one last time. The Paris catwalk turned theatre at the Grand Palais, as it was transformed into a peaceful mountain village. An homage to Lagerfeld’s love of Salzburg, and because of Coco Chanel’s relationship with the Austrian city, makeshift chalets puffing smoke from their chimneys lined the pine tree and snowcovered runway – a metamorphosis imagined by both Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard – his former right-hand, now artistic director of Fashion Collections. Backstage, and upon closer inspection, his legacy is woven into every look, both in fibre and in fantasy – an ultimate, final farewell from the man who redefined fashion as we know it.

Guests were greeted with illustrations of both Karl Lagerfeld and Coco Chanel, accompanied by the simple words, “the beat goes on.” And after a minute’s silence to honour Karl, guests were treated to a collection which embodied every essence of the theme the Grand Palais played host to. Apparently, Karl loved snow. The palette of winter whites, beige and black laid the foundations for navy and purple accents, flashes of fuchsia and emerald green. Cara Delevingne opened the show in a

THE FINALE

Chanel’s Winterfell

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The emotionally-charged, snow-topped catwalk finale played to the soundtrack of David Bowie’s ‘Heroes’ – one of Karl’s favourite musicians

mostly monochrome houndstooth coat, and a matching suit and fedora, laden with pearls. Whatever the setting, the look was typically and instantly identifiable as Chanel, regardless of the fact Karl was always reinventing house codes. Cara later wrote on Instagram, “He’s a visionary, a genius but more than that… a dear friend. Outside of fashion he was one of the most interesting and caring men I have ever met. I’m so lucky and grateful to have had him in my life.”

Karl has been resolutely consistent in turning fantasy into reality. Though the mood might have been sombre to start, the sheer joy and privilege of witnessing the magnificence of Karl’s imagination, wit and playfulness one last time quickly lifted spirits. For this collection, house genetics were all intact, with houndstooth, tweed and quilting serving as the backbone of looks devoted entirely to the Apline theme. Backstage revealed overcoats and suiting with wide-cut trousers worn high at the waist. Tweed jackets trimmed with wool braid and flared collars were layered over chunky rollneck sweaters embroidered with crystals and mountain motifs. Sculptural puffer jackets and shearling boots crunched their way through

the faux snow, trimmed with gold chains. Chiffon dresses and skirts were strewn with a motif of miniature skiers and CC chairlifts – the print a direct reflection of how Karl managed to marry couture-like clothing and sublime craftsmanship with a mischievous sense of humour.

Further into the collection, romanticism shone through in dresses with Claudine collars and skirts in icy guipure lace.

Snowball skirts and dresses in chiffon and feathers added a playful feel, while Penelope Cruz made her catwalk return in one of those magical skirts, carrying a single rose in tribute to her late friend. It was desirable in that way that only Chanel is. Indeed, it was just last year that Karl added Coco Neige (and Coco Beach) to the brand, distributing in super-chic ski resorts such as Courcheval, where Chanel has a temporary store during the winter. If Coco Neige is skewed towards more technical clothing, like tweed-trimmed down jackets, Karl’s autumn/winter’19 collection has your pre and après covered. A simple red knit with a black and white Chanel logo emblazoned on the front makes for the chicest of après ski looks, guaranteed to attract an avalanche of admiring glances.

Classic Chanel silhouettes, offset with flourishes of fun, are a fashion nod to Karl’s sharp sense of humour

The late Karl Lagerfeld

As Karl’s last collection, the accessories are worth paying special attention to, and will no doubt become the cult buy of the season. As well as classic black or white smooth quilted leathers and tweeds with interlocking C clasps, there were belt bags in faux fur or leather embroidered with glossy camellias, alternated with gondola lift minaudières in rhinestoned resin.

Chanel’s Gabrielle bag appeared in leather and fluffy checked tweed, the 11.12 was embroidered with sequins, and the classic 2.55 turned out in attention-seeking neon orange, also making its debut was the new Chanel 19 bag. It was an amalgamation of past, present and future, of which any piece would make a worthy investment or prized keepsake.

With tears and tribute woven throughout the show, a charge of emotional models, led by Cara Delevingne, made for a spinetingling finale. They walked hand-in-hand and arm-in-arm, accompanied by David Bowie’s hit ‘Heroes’, to a standing ovation. A great fan of Bowie’s, this was the moment for the fashion industry to bid farewell to Karl, its very own hero.

And while the show will of course go on, Karl’s contribution to Chanel, and fashion itself, is unparalleled. Boasting a career spanning 60 years, with Fendi and his eponymous Karl Lagerfeld brand, he annually created more than 15 collections – a truly epic achievement. With countless celebrity VIPs in attendance who turned out to honour their friend and collaborator, anyone who has ever had the privilege of attending a show will tell you, “There is nothing like a Chanel show. They are always historic.” This one, perhaps, the most historic of all.

Chanel’s AW19 accessories are set to become some of the house’s most coveted collectibles

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MADIYAH AL SHARQI The Emirati designer continues with neutrals and metallics for another season, with sumptuous fabrics taking centre stage

THE TALENT

and clean cuts embodying everyday luxury, resulting in an easy-chic line-up of looks that work hard in your wardrobe.

MADIYAH AL SHARQI

NOON BY NOOR The Bahraini label showed in New York for the 14th season, blending its quintessential masculine structures with flowing, feminine shapes in a core palette of neutrals with pops of this season’s colour of choice, canary yellow.

NOON BY NOOR

BOUGUESSA

BOUGUESSA Comprising the perfect autumn palette, Faiza Bouguessa’s AW19 collection boasts her signature tailoring and refined elegance in all its glory. Designed with the contemporary woman in mind, she says, “To me the Chromatic collection is a modern definition of femininity that emphasises on the diverse shades and forms of beauty which make women united like a chromatic wheel. Not necessarily united by the features they share in common, but rather by their differences.

Today femininity can be expressed by women in so many different ways, and I wanted to create pieces that allowed all women to express their different type of femininity through this new collection”. Bouguessa.com

NATURAL INSTINCT The third collection from Dubai-based handbag brand HALM is inspired by the beauty of the natural world, with its latest designs made in leathers inspired by the delicious colour of figs grown in the UAE. Halm.com

HALM

VICTORIA BECKHAM X REEBOK

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

MIRROR IMAGE

AT YOUR LEISURE

Introducing Refracted by Salvatore Ferragamo, a new collection of shoes created

Reebok’s second collection with Victoria Beckham hits Reebok

by Paul Andrew with an innovative laser-carved heel shape and metallic finish,

stores this month, with the elevated sportswear taking inspiration

creating dancefloor-worthy refractions of light.

from the designer’s daily high-energy exercise routine.

THE BUYS

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From left: PRADA | LAURA LOMBARDI at NET-A-PORTER

CHAIN REACTION Not keen on delicate jewellery? Then chunky gold chains are what you should be investing in — the heavier the better. Take note from Bottega and pair with simple knits.

ALAÏA

WINGS OF LOVE First seen almost three decades ago in Azzedine Alaïa’s autumn/winter 1991 show and worn by the likes of Naomi Campbell and Helena Christensen, the legendary designer’s butterfly print — a nod to Monsieur Alaïa’s love for les papillons — has made a comeback, decorating a new season capsule of flirty dresses. Guaranteed to induce fashion-inspired heart flutters.

BOTTEGA VENETA

SHE’S A LADY SS19’s coolest bag trend is here to stay for the new season. Mini bags with structured top handles have captured our ladylike hearts, the polished, vintage-inspired designs elevating even the most casual of outfits.

L’AFSHAR

STAUD

BY FAR

KHAITE X NET-A-PORTER

CHICER BY THE DOZEN Sonia Rykiel’s former creative director Julie de Libran is launching her own line of red carpet dresses crafted from limited-edition archive fabrics, to be sold exclusively through Matchesfashion.com this September.

12 dresses are named after the powerful women that inspired them, and will be sold in a limited quantity to support sustainable practices.

JULIE DE LIBRAN

KHAITE EXPECTATIONS Dropping September 4, New York label Khaite’s collection of leather and zebra print bags and shoes, which made their appearance alongside her debut AW19 collection at NYFW, will be available exclusively at NET-A-PORTER.

CELEBRATION OF STYLE Marking its 20th anniversary, Shopbop are launching a twenty-piece collection chosen from the runways of twenty of their favourite designers, from renowned labels like Zimmermann to notable up-and-coming talents. From September 5; Shopbop.com

ULLA JOHNSON

ZIMMERMANN

THE COLLECTION

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REBEL WITH A CAUSE Dior’s quintessential ladylike silhouette, reimagined through the eyes of the fashion subculture that thrived on gender-bending androgyny

Words by Hafsa Lodi

Dior’s netted bucket hats, inspired by those worn by Irish farmers and fisherman in the 1900s, topped off everything from tough leather coats to billowing chiffon ballgowns.

“

AW19 is about unconventional young women, rebels, eager to become protagonists of their lives.

Maria Grazia Chiuri

Photography: Keystone Features/Getty Images, Ken Russell 1955, exclusively at TopFoto.co.uk

I

s the bucket hat making a comeback this season?

If Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director, has any say in the matter, autumn’s trending headwear will be modelled on the floppy, waterproof hats first seen in the early 1900s on Irish farmers and fisherman.

But as we know, Maria is all about redefining gender roles, from challenging their cultural, patriarchal roots to unapologetically championing feminism – a point she cemented with the politically-charged slogan t-shirts created for her first Dior collection. The fashion house has a strong legacy of catering to well-to-do women with expensive taste and sophisticated style, and since taking the reins three years ago, Maria has cleverly injected youth and laid-back design into the brand, mostly with icons, slogans, silhouettes and accessories that have become fashion-forward, millennial must-haves.

So what of those Irish farmer and fisherman inspirations?

The bucket hats created for autumn/winter 2019 are not the drab, functional versions worn by men tirelessly working the fields and nets 100 years ago. They feature outer shells of textured leather and leopard print, lined with Dior’s logo-stamped fabrics. Topped off with veils that could seem rather funereal on any other hat, the finishing touch appears almost rebellious on these historically-inspired, but magnificently reimagined headpieces.

Rebellion, after all, was Maria’s reference point for this collection. One of these rebels being the famously wild Princess Margaret, who was immortalised in a 1951 portrait

by Cecil Beaton wearing a gown made by Monsieur Dior for her 21st birthday. Not only did her choice of a French designer depart from royal tradition, the vast, layered creation was a rebuke to post-war austerity, flamboyantly stained with alcohol and cigarettes, the well-known vices of the party-loving princess. Continuing what has become her signature, Maria’s muses are strong women with something significant to say. “The AW19 collection is about unconventional young women, rebels, eager to become protagonists of their lives,” she explains. “It evokes the Teddy Girls, the prolific contrast between tradition and counter-culture. The United Kingdom is home to these counter-cultures, but also to these incredible traditions that fashion is constantly referencing.”

The Teddy Girls Maria speaks of were a teenage girl gang that emerged in Britain in the early 1950s, following the end of World War II. Flaunting styles that were a

A young woman biker, circa 1960s

Photo by Ken Russell from a series, ‘The Last of the Teddy Girls.’ Elsie Hendon (15) and Jean Rayner (14) outside the Seven Feathers Club, where they did the popular dance, The Creep.

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Maria took inspiration from Dior’s New Look as well as teenage rebellion of the 1950s

surprising revival of the Edwardian clothing worn by their grandparents, mixed with the flavour of American rock ‘n’ roll culture, Teddy Girls – also known as Judies – quickly became recognised for their distinctive sartorial statements. But these were no wealthy socialites experimenting with fashion for its frivolity. Many were poor, working class young women who had to leave school aged 14 or 15 to seek employment. For them, fashion that went against the grain of proper societal dress, and offered a distraction from the harsh realities of the postwar period was their way of escaping the constraints of their world. As the more conventional woman embraced skirts as work wear, thankful that the requirement to wear trousers to the office was on the wane, Teddy Girls eschewed societal norms. Dressing in a way that could be considered masculine, they accessorised with brooches and clutch bags, and banded together to celebrate music, cinema and plain, old-fashioned fun.

While photographs of the Teddy Girls may be inspiring for fashion historians, the fact remains that this group of women took a back seat to the originals – Teddy Boys – who were the real founders of this style phenomenon.

Cropped trousers, kitten heels and ankle socks are key for AW19 at dior

But it was those young women who were Maria’s muses, whose bold signature of British youth subculture was given a 21st-century upgrade for Dior’s autumn season.

A hallmark of the Teddy Girls’ unofficial uniform was their cuffed jeans and trousers, exposing ankle and a hint of calf. For Dior, Maria reimagined this boyish attitude with a touch of grace: midi skirts (at times pleated, at others, featuring mesh overlays, sheer fabrics or frayed hems), trousers and culottes cropped at the calf, topped off with brogue-inspired flats and pointy-toed kitten heels paired with nylon ankle socks. Teddy Girls often wore silk scarves tied around their necks; Maria’s take on this culminated in a range of blouses and ribbed tops with tails in place of collars, simply tied under the chin.

Neck-up, models channeled a classic ’60s look, which appeared to pay homage to another British cultural icon: Twiggy. One of the world’s first supermodels, Twiggy was known for her iconic lashes, which were mesmerisingly bold and somewhat spider-like. Christian Dior Beauty’s creative and image director Peter Philips gave a modern interpretation of this ’60s beauty trend using graphic eyeliner strokes, drawn beneath the lids to resemble lashes.

“

I created iconic pieces that capture the very concept and style of the 1950s, bringing it all up-to-date in a celebration of the Dior style.

Maria Grazia Chiuri

Bold, heavy stripes and a wave of plaids feature on jackets, coats, trousers and dresses; leathers were softened by a feminine silhouette; denims given an artisan spin with scenic imprints, while sultry, sheer-skirted dresses were stamped with the romantic aesthetic that has VIP clients choosing Dior eveningwear time and again.

“I mixed masculine fabrics with industrial textiles and black leather to create a collection made up of so many unique pieces that work together,” says Maria.

“Iconic pieces that capture the very concept and style of the 1950s, and together bring it all up-to-date in a celebration of the Dior style.”

The collection is a display of aristocratic panache and anarchic androgyny with a dash of Parisian flair. Outfits are accessorised with pearl chokers, bejewelled brooches, logo-adorned satchels and wide, waspie belts with the letter D dangling off to one side – bold, golden charms that remind others precisely which gang the wearer belongs to.

And while millennials may opt for Maria’s bucket hats to top their athleisure ensembles – baggy t-shirts, cargo pants and chunky trainers – her headgear has officially been glamourised by Dior, appearing not only with shirts and trenches, but also A-line skirts, bustier dresses and draped gowns, crafted from layers of chiffon.

Do we expect Hollywood’s elite to walk the red carpet decked out in ballgowns with bucket hats? Perhaps not.

But it’s not just about head-turning headgear. This Dior collection is borne of an ideology that reaches far deeper into the guts of cultural change, inviting discussion.

“Sisterhood” was the word splashed across this season’s slogan t-shirts, and while they may have been borrowed from works by American feminist poet Robin Morgan, they remind the female consumer of another concept – that women dress for themselves, and not for men. Reclaiming the narrative around fashion, which in recent seasons has championed sartorial modesty and the rejection of outdated dress codes, equality, liberty and independence from chavenistic conventions of old are the headline act.

“Sisterhood is powerful” and “Sisterhood is global” are eternalised on Dior’s tees, highlighting unity, diversity and acceptance at a time where women’s freedom is at the forefront of global debate. An uplifting notion put forth once again by the storied French fashion house’s ferociously talented – not forgetting brilliantly bold and butt-kicking – first female creative director.

Dior’s latest slew of slogan tees continue the house’s focus on female empowerment through fashion.

Christian Dior with royal client, Princess Margaret, one of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s muses for the season.

ON THE STREET

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Jeanette Friis Madsen in a caramel-coloured coat and matching purse

How to wear beige? With more beige, of course Timelessly cool in a chestnut trench

A warm honey knit is an autumn must-have No cover-up is as chic as a classic taupe trench

Hot coffee combinations during Milan Fashion Week

COFFEE BREAK Caramel cappuccino, vanilla latte or cafe au lait; fashion continues its love affair with the shade of the summer in an array of delicious coffee colours guaranteed to perk up your AW19 wardrobe.

Maria Helena Bordon rocks Ally McGraw glam

WELL SUITED Nothing beats the resounding versatility of a good suit; whether it’s a transformative three-piece that works from boardroom to bar, or a pared-back linen number for easy weekend polish, borrowing from the boys is the season’s smartest move.

Mix and match shades make tailoring less formal

Pernille Teisbaek looking good in greige A masterclass in tonal dressing from top to toe

Linda Tol gives us a lesson in power pairings

Channel ’80s Working Girl chic in a suit paired with pointy white pumps

Erika Boldrin’s denim suit is bursting with weekend wow-factor

Photography: GoRunway.com

Bright accessories give life to a plain black suit

Amplify an oversized two piece with an elegant felt hat

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FASHION IN FOCUS

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SACAI

6 MODERN MILITIA As utilitarian fashion stages a coup, cargo trousers and unfussy military shirting deliver the season’s uniform. Pile on functional layers and choose anything with a patch pocket, zip, strap or hook fastening.

1. DIOR | 2. ISABEL MARANT ÉTOILE at NET-A-PORTER | 3. LOEWE | 4. PRADA at MODA OPERANDI | 5. STONE AND STRAND at NET-A-PORTER | 6. DELPOZO | 7. CHLOÉ

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TOD’S

SWEET LIKE CHOCOLATE From creamy milk to 100 per cent dark, cocoa in all its scrumptious shades seamlessly slots into your wardrobe this season. Its selling point? Easy mix-and-match combos that are amazingly versatile and effortlessly chic.

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1. LOEWE | 2. FENDI at MATCHES FASHION | 3. TOD’S | 4. MAX MARA | 5. BALLY | 6. ACNE | 7. GUCCI

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DIOR

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PLAID BRIGADE Whether intertwined with lace or paired together haphazardly, buffalo checks, tweeds, tartans and gingham are the square route to autumn style.

1. GANNI at MATCHES FASHION | 2. MM6 MAISON MARGIELA at NET-A-PORTER | 3. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 4. BURBERRY | 5. MIU MIU | 6. MAJE | 7. DIOR

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PACO RABBANE

WHAT’S NEW PUSSYCAT Fancy a walk on the wild side? Add a leopard spot, or two, to your winter wardrobe for feline ferocity that is anything but tame – with the coolest cats saying hello kitty to multi-print layering.

1. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 2. ATTICO at HARVEY NICHOLS-DUBAI | 3. ETRO at MYTHERESA | 4. BIENEN DAVIS | 5. DIOR | 6. SAINT LAURENT | 7. TOD’S

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MOJEH FASHION

CINDY BRUNA

Talking exclusively to MOJEH, French supermodel Cindy Bruna reveals why keeping it real is the key to keeping her head in the increasingly frenetic fashion world Photography by Jeremy Spierer Words by Lucy Wildman

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ad she decided not to go to St Raphael’s beach one where diversity in fashion is no longer the exception, but hot and sunny day in 2010, Cindy Bruna could quickly becoming the rule. well have been filing your tax returns right now. “It’s not easy for black girls — everybody knows that. There Spotted by model scout Dominique Savri sunbathing in were usually only three of us in a show at most,” reveals her hometown in the South of France, the then 16-year- Cindy, who is of Italian/Congolese descent. “I never felt like old’s plan to become an accountant came to a dramatic I had to fight anything because of the colour of my skin — it’s halt when she was whisked away to Paris to try her hand my skin, and I can’t change its colour. But it also wasn’t easy at modelling. Promptly signed by a top agency, the rest is because they only had a couple of spots for girls who were fashion – and accounting – history. black. And then you’d wonder if they picked you because Landing her first job with Azzedine Alaïa, followed by you were black.” But Cindy has been lucky enough to Elie Saab, in 2012, Cindy was the first model of colour witness an almost turbo-charged change of attitude in the to be exclusively booked by industry, which, in the last three Calvin Klein for their runway years specifically, has seen an “Diversity is exactly what show. “That was my first fashion exceptional array of models take makes fashion inspirational week in New York,” she recalls to the catwalk – many of whom during MOJEH’s photoshoot in would previously have never and beautiful. And what been considered by a major Cannes. “I couldn’t even speak would fashion be if all fashion house. “People’s state English then, and when it was the models looked of mind changes and evolves, confirmed I had the Calvin Klein exclusive, I was so honoured and and the fashion industry is the exactly the same?” excited and nervous all at the mirror of political and cultural Cindy Bruna same time. But I remember the spirit,” says Cindy. “You see moment I was on that runway, a lot of diversity now, both in I had the feeling that I was exactly where I was supposed to magazines and catwalk shows, which is truly amazing, be, I felt good and at ease. That show changed my career.” and I’m really happy to be representing that change of Snapped up by Victoria’s Secret for their annual catwalk mindset. I’m proud of who I am, and that the industry extravaganza in 2013 and landing two covers less than I’m in has begun to reflect the world we live in. Because 12 months later, Cindy has walked for every major fashion diversity is exactly what makes fashion inspirational and house in the industry since, and been the face of countless beautiful. And what would fashion be if all the models fashion and beauty brands around the globe. One of the looked exactly the same?” most successful models of her generation, the 24-year-old is One of many models using her visibility and social media proud to be at the forefront of a rapidly changing industry, platform –she has almost 800,000 Instagram followers –

Cindy wears necklace in white gold set with white and black diamonds, and ring in white gold set with black diamonds and rubies, DE GRISOGONO HIGH JEWELLERY

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Cindy wears earrings in white gold set with white diamonds and emeralds, and ring in white gold set with diamonds and emeralds, DE GRISOGONO HIGH JEWELLERY

“

I only ever dreamed of being a model when I was younger, because it seemed too big a goal for me to actually achieve.

But I got there in the end. I did it.

Cindy Bruna

to promote a cause important to them, aside from being a champion of fashion diversity, Cindy works closely with Solidarité Femmes, a French federation that combats violence against women, with a focus on domestic abuse.

She became involved because she knew a victim. “It was something I wanted to fight for. At first, I didn’t think I could do something,” reveals Cindy. “But we’re trying to bring the federation to another level, with the support of the French government.” An inspiration to millions of girls around the world, and numerous aspiring models, Cindy is well aware of the responsibility she has to those who look up to her, as well as staying true to her own morals and beliefs. “It’s easy to forget that social media isn’t real life.

We post the best moments, and sometimes make it look better than it is. But what I like about it the most is how you can use it to be inspired. I want to follow people that inspire me to be a better person, to lift me up, not bring me down.” As used to the negative comments as she is to the positive, Cindy’s perspective of the power social media holds is philosophical. “It’s a truly great platform to raise awareness about important topics and to connect with people – it shouldn’t be about looking at someone else’s life and be hateful and jealous about it,” she says. “My advice is to follow the right people and unfollow the person that makes you feel bad about yourself. We are all human in the end, and you never know what’s happening in someone else’s life. Don’t be too hard on yourself or others.”

In an industry that’s notoriously tough, Cindy maintains that a strong sense of self, and belief in your own abilities, are essential skills that must be developed in order to survive what can often be a brutal business. “You have to remind yourself to not take anything personally. It’s a tough industry, and often you feel completely rejected. Sometimes you’ll only get three minutes with a client to prove yourself, and it’s confusing to be judged on your physical appearance so quickly,” she explains. “I grew up with Naomi Campbell as my idol, and she’s still my idol today. She paved the way for so many black models because she believed in herself, and she never gave up. She was my inspiration. Because I wasn’t expecting to be a model when I was younger – I was good at maths, so I thought I’d be an accountant or something in finance. I only used to dream about becoming a model because it seemed too big a goal for me to actually

Cindy is a longstanding member of Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain army, seen here on his AW19 runway.

achieve. But I got there in the end, I did it. I now know that you should never set yourself limitations. There are many more goals I want to achieve, and so I can’t wait to see what else will come my way.”

Having spent the summer bouncing between New York and Paris, where she’s been renovating her new apartment, Cindy’s preparations for spring/summer ’20 Fashion Week are currently in the final stages. “Getting ready for fashion week is not just about taking care of your body but also your mind, because it’s a really intense time,” she explains. “Being able to keep going for an entire month is exhausting. Staying hydrated, resting as much as possible and not taking it personally if you’re not confirmed for a show is key. That will wear you down. You cannot be liked by everyone.” Applying the same principles to life in general as well as her work, Cindy is a big believer in keeping it real to stay healthy, both mentally and physically.

“Being yourself is the most important thing. Try not to fit in a box or to please people; because it’s fine to just own who you really are. You are the guardian of your own temple so take care of yourself. I find peace in meditating, working out and painting – so whatever makes you feel good just do it. Your body and your mind will thank you for it.”

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MOJEH FASHION

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I always want to look like me. If a trend just doesn’t suit me, I won’t wear it for the sake of looking ‘fashionable’.

Photography: Borna Ahadi. Words: Lucy Wildman, Hafsa Lodi. Hair: Tips & Toes and Blow Out & Go. Make-up: Chi Shevket for Hourglass Cosmetics.

Gemma Deeks

Gemma wears wool cape, dress and earrings, CHLOÉ | Shoes, BY FAR

ALL CHANGE As the autumn/winter 19 collections arrive in store, MOJEH reveals how the region’s fashion experts will be wearing the season’s must-have new looks

GEMMA DEEKS British, Fashion Stylist

A successful model before working as fashion editor on some of the biggest magazine titles in the region, Gemma Deeks’ career path has allowed her to obsess over the new season collections for a living.

“I love the excitement the new season brings to the fashion world,” says Gemma as we browse the rail of AW19 looks pulled for the shoot. “The September issue’s fashion editorials showcase the best of the collections, and I get to style shoots and edit fashion pages using the pieces I saw on the catwalk at fashion week. It’s like the start of a new fashion year!” Choosing a black leather dress and shoes by Bottega Veneta, along with a windowpane check dress and tan wool cape by Chloé, the 27-year-old Brit’s love of great tailoring and luxury basics in a chic, muted palette is evident.

“Bottega Veneta’s new creative director Daniel Lee has taken the fashion world by storm since his debut for the house, and I particularly love his use of leather. I’m also a big fan of Natacha Ramsay-Levi for Chloé – this dress and cape are the opening look from the autumn/winter show. I’ve always loved the Chloé aesthetic – basically they can do no wrong in my eyes.” Currently lusting after Bottega Veneta’s squaretoed mules and a monogrammed canvas Saint Laurent satchel, despite being surrounded by the season’s musthave pieces on a daily basis, Gemma maintains a level head with regards to what she buys when the new season drops.

“If I really want something and I can’t stop thinking about it, I tend to just go for it. But I’m sensible. If I’ve splashed out on a new designer bag, or a pair of shoes, I’ll limit what I’m buying that month.” And while she loves working with trends, when it comes to her own wardrobe, wearability and practicality take priority. “I always want to look like ‘me’. If I’m buying into a trend, it has to be something I can wear next season, or the year after. If I can only wear it once, it’s a waste of money. But if a trend just doesn’t suit me, I won’t wear it for the sake of looking ‘fashionable’.”

Gemma wears leather dress, belt and shoes, BOTTEGA VENETA

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Rosemin wears jacket and trousers, SAFIYAA

“

I choose pieces that flatter my body shape, and make me look good and feel confident about myself. Trends really aren’t that important to me.

Rosemin Madhavji

ROSEMIN MADHAVJI Canadian, Presenter/MC

Juggling her roles as founder and managing director of bespoke luxury management firm RR&Co, television presenter and MC for international luxury lifestyle events around the world, it’s rare you’ll see Rosemin Madhavji looking anything less than photshoot-ready. Immaculately dressed and made-up, with a voluminous mane of glossy brunette waves, it’s no surprise that the Canadian-born, Dubai-based entrepreneur’s style inspirations include the perfectly polished and put together beauty magnate Aerin Lauder and fashion entrepreneur Olivia Palermo.

“I love fashion, and really appreciate the vision and creativity that you see on the catwalks. But when it comes to what I buy as the new season comes around, it’s all about choosing pieces that flatter my body shape and make me look good

and feel confident.” Joining the army of women enamoured

by Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta, Rosemin also loves the work of Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz, Copenhagenbased Cecelie Bahnsen and London label Saafiya, along with longtime favourites Dolce & Gabbana, Oscar de la Renta and Valentino, whose classically feminine sensibilities perfectly match her elegant style signature. “I travel a lot, so I need my wardrobe to be able to take me effortlessly from day to night,” says Rosemin, citing dresses from Dolce & Gabbana, Alessandra Rich and Zimmermann as wardrobe staples.

“Each season I buy leopard print from Dolce & Gabbana, and suiting from Safiyaa,” she says, smiling as she spots pieces from their collections hanging in the fashion closet, ready for her MOJEH shoot. “Dolce’s leopard print is such a classic, but I love how this dress is a little more edgy whilst still being sexy and feminine. I’m obsessed with the duality of the design; half slinky black lace, half billowing silk chiffon. It looks incredible when you move,” coos the 39-year-old of the stunning AW19 cocktail dress. “And Safiyaa’s cream trouser suit is so modern and clean, with flared, leg-lengthening pants and the added drama of the coat tail on the jacket.”

Admitting she has little time to shop in the traditional sense anymore, Rosemin believes that while online shopping is a blessing for those with a relentless schedule, the physical pleasure of going into a boutique is something she really misses. “I love to touch and feel clothes before I buy them, and going into store to have that full, sensory experience is such a treat,” she explains. “But it’s such a rarity for me to get the chance to do that now, so the majority of my purchases are made online.” Choosing to invest in classics over high fashion pieces, despite not setting a budget for her new season shop, her spend is well-considered.

“As I get older, I’m investing in pieces that I can wear for seasons, like beautifully-cut suiting, cashmere and timeless dresses. I think more about building a wardrobe that I can wear for decades. Trends aren’t really important to me – so let’s just say you’ll never catch me wearing a pair of flesh toned cycling shorts anytime this century!”

Rosemin wears lace and silk chiffon dress and shoes, DOLCE & GABBANA

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Rani wears jumpsuit, THE FRANKIE SHOP | Shoes, BY FAR

“

Rani wears satin shirt, PETER DO | Trousers, JACQUEMUS | Earrings, JENNIFER FISHER | Shoes, DORATEYMUR

Working in fashion makes it a lot more challenging to be loyal to just one or two particular fashion houses, because I love discovering new brands.

Rani Ilmi

RANI ILMI American, PR Director

“With each year that passes, it feels like time slips away faster and faster, and I’m becoming more time-poor.

So I actually love the fashion ‘hard markers’ of February/ March and September/October, just to have a chance to stop and re-focus,” says Frame Publicity’s Canadian founder, Rani Ilmi. With a 15-year career in luxury fashion that’s taken her from Dubai to New York and back again, representing everyone from Versace and Victoria Beckham to Matches Fashion and Maria Tash, PR Director Rani gets to be up-close-and-personal with the most established names in the business, as well as being introduced to fashion’s hottest up-and-coming talent. “Working in fashion makes it a lot more challenging to be loyal to just one or two particular houses, because I love discovering new brands. It makes me feel like a fashion explorer,” says Rani of her diverse array of sartorial favourites. Currently coveting New Yorkbased labels Peter Do and The Frankie Shop, the 34-yearold’s go-to uniform of bright colour and print, or something utilitarian, perfectly aligns with each of the designer’s new season collections. “For more formalwear, I really love Peter Do. Phoebe Philo was his creative mentor during his time at Celine, and her influence is so evident in his work. But I also feel like his pieces have a dash of Dion Lee in them – another favourite of mine for formalwear. He designs with a modern, feminine sensibility in mind, and I think what he’s doing with his convertible pieces is super-exciting.” Admitting she’s already invested in two of The Frankie Shop’s cult Linda cargo jumpsuits after seeing them on the catwalk back in February, Rani explains that impulse buying is simply not her thing, choosing to have a more methodical approach to updating her wardrobe each season. “In my thirties, I’ve become an investment piece shopper. Everything I buy has been pre-planned and pre-ordered in two sizes to ensure

I keep at least one of them when they arrive,” she smiles.

“I try and set a budget, but my newly-discovered appetite for fine jewellery is sure to have a major impact upon whether or not I stick to it!” Spending on items with style longevity over trend-lead pieces, Rani’s aversion to splurging on fast fashion dovetails with her opinion on environmental issues.

“I don’t think the current state of the planet will let anyone with a moral compass shop without considering fashion sustainability,” explains Rani. “As a fashion PR, you see clothes at shows almost a year in advance, then communicate trends a season ahead, so you’re often totally over a trend by the time it drops in store. Consumerism makes people emotionally dependant upon the thrill of a new purchase.

But with fast fashion and social media saturation making the life span of a trend little more than eight weeks, how can you buy into something like that with a clear social conscience?”

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Lilianne wears blazer and skirt, MARELLA | Bag, L’ AFSHAR

“

I love the transition and revamp Bottega Veneta has had. Daniel Lee has taken a very steady brand and added so much life dimension and texture to it.

Lilian Afshar

LILIAN AFSHAR Iranian, Handbag Designer

Since launching her brand at the tender age of 23, handbag designer Lilian Afshar has become something of a household name amongst Hollywood’s top stylists. With superstars including Celine Dion, Beyoncé, Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley, Bella Hadid and the extended Kardashian clan fans of Lilian’s designs, and frequently tagged on countless celebrity instagram feeds, while the digital world may have catapulted the Dubai-based designer to global fame, she has a preference for all things old school. Take shopping, for instance. Though she says she’s an impulse buyer, as her millennial peers opt for e-commerce convenience, Lilian is a more traditional soul, preferring the experience of visiting physical stores to realise her new season fashion

indulgences. “I like the experience of trying stuff on,” she explains. “I like to touch and feel everything.”

Architecture, antiques and interiors from her travels form the inspiration for Lilian’s designs, which may take classic box-bag shapes, but are fitted with contemporary statement chains – from pastel pink Perspex to oversized tortoiseshell links. The resulting ultra-modern Lucite and marbled bags are her forté, and while her in-demand designs may be trending in fashion edits across the globe, Lilian herself is no follower of trends. “I prefer steering away from them and sticking to classics. I feel if you look to trends solely, your style will fluctuate a bit too much,” she says. Lilian’s style this season incorporates power suits, blazer-and-shorts combinations, utilitarian ensembles, and a palette of earthy tones. Practicality, she believes, is the primary function of clothing after all. “My everyday wardrobe needs to be comfortable – my days consist of lots of running around,” she says. “I prefer to be in gym clothes all day during the week.” Despite her glamorous creations, the designer admits to being something of a sucker for athleisure, embracing dad sneakers and tie-dye shirts – trends she says she never thought she’d take up herself.

If there’s one luxury label that has captured her heart in recent seasons, it’s Bottega Veneta. “I love the transition and revamp Bottega has had. Daniel Lee has taken a very steady brand and added so much life, dimension and texture to it,” she says. “I love the silks, the necklines and definitely the structured shoes.” Strong, structural shapes are a particular weakness of this designer, who describes her personal style as industrial and polished, with Bottega Veneta shoes and a tailored hourglass coat from Balenciaga topping her wish list for the new season.

“I’m steering away from high street brands and investing in quality pieces that will last longer in my closet,” she says.

Lilliane wears dress lace dress by MADIYA AL SHARQI | Bag, L’AFSHAR | Shoes by SIX AND A HALF

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“

I’ll be looking for a collection that excites me the moment I set eyes on it – you just know when you see something that’s going to be big.

Nicola Phillips

Nicola wears dress by LES REVERIES | Boots, JIMMY CHOO

Nicola wears blazer, FENDI | Dress, REALISATION PAR | Shoes, SERGIO ROSSI

NICOLA PHILLIPS British, Senior Fashion Buyer

“As a fashion buyer, nothing excites me more than seeing new trends emerging, and how each designer incorporates them into their collections,” says 36-year-old Nicola Phillips, senior buyer for American Rag Cie in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue. “Trends keep fashion exciting, and allow us to experiment with styles we’d perhaps never have the confidence to wear, like this season’s must-have, for example – cycling shorts!” she says.

Citing Loewe’s handbags, hot new label By Far’s mules and mini bags, Bottega Veneta accessories and the entire Jacquemus collection as standouts of the season – “he used the most gorgeous colour palette across both accessories and ready-to-wear,” – Nicola stumbled across two of her favourite new designers on a recent buying trip to Paris. “I clearly remember the first time I discovered the Les Reveries collection in a showroom in Paris,” she recalls, as she dresses in one of their maxis for her MOJEH shoot.

“I instantly fell in love with their feminine silhouettes and prints - they’re a real brand to watch. They have also be added to The Vanguard, Net-a-Porter’s mentorship program for new brands to help them grow and expand, which is fantastic.

I also adore Lee Mathews, a beautiful Australian brand that offers day-to-evening wear. His silk midi dresses and skirts are ultra-flattering in beautiful colours and prints.”

Describing her personal style as super-feminine, Nicola’s go-to garment is a silk slip dress – preferably from Belgian fashion label Bernadette, whose latest collection features an array of pretty floral prints in a palette of sorbet shades.

“Florals and animal prints are everywhere for AW19, and very reflective of my personal style. But I’ll make it work regardless of the season. I’ll wear a silk leopard maxi slip in the summer, then team it with a cropped cashmere sweater or a camel jacket and boots in the winter.”

Her signature add-on, however, is a blazer. “I love the contrast of a feminine slip teamed with a boxy masculine blazer to pull the look together,” she says. “I also like how it allows me to mix prints and colours, meaning I can go straight from the office to dinner and still feel comfortable and stylish.”

With a job that takes her to the four fashion capitals twice

a year to buy for her brand, Nicola has to not only shop smart, but pack smart too. “I have a specific list of requirements for when fashion week comes around – stylish and comfortable!” she laughs. “Whilst fashion week looks glamorous, the reality is very different for a buyer – we’re seeing up to 20 brands a day, trekking across New York, London, Milan or Paris in all weather conditions. For a dreary February fashion week, my go-to is a comfy lace-up flat boot – I rely on Alexander Wang for style and comfort. For summer buying appointments, it’s a Reformation floral dress with sneakers or slides or a linen blazer and Redone denim.” And when she’s buying for a new season, Nicola follows her heart as well as her head “I’ll be looking for a collection that excites me the moment I set eyes on it – you just know when you see something that’s going to be big,” she smiles. “Style, quality and fit are always at the heart of every buying decision I make, however, I also want to ensure the latest trends are captured for the target consumer.”

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MOJEH FASHION

THE LOYAL

FAMILY Amid a constantly changing cycle of creative directors, what really draws consumers to luxury fashion brands – and keeps them there?

Words by Hafsa Lodi

Photography: GoRunway.com

V

irginie Viard: if you’re not well-versed in the inner goings-on of the fashion industry, you may not be familiar with the name. It hardly carries the same oomph as, let’s say, Karl Lagerfeld. The late designer’s face has become emblematic of luxury French fashion thanks to a three-decade tenure at Chanel – not to mention his 50 years at Fendi. Even his white Birman cat, Choupette, is world-famous.

In May of 2019, three months after the legendary German designer passed away, Virginie presented her first collection as Chanel’s new artistic director, succeeding Karl and taking over the reigns of the French fashion house. And yet, the majority of Chanel’s global customers, who lust after the brand’s quilted handbags, sling-back shoes and tweed jackets season after season, remain oblivious about the name of the new designer whose sketches inspire what they see on the catwalk.

Brand loyalty, in such cases, is often tied to the name of the label, rather than the designer behind it at a given time.

Be it Virginie, Karl, or Gabrielle “Coco” herself, the person at the helm of the house is not the sole creditor for its success.

Of course, Karl was clever in rebuilding the brand, when he joined in 1983, around key characteristics of Coco – the 2.55 bag, toe-capped ballerina flats, oversized pearls, iconic little black dress and the bouclé jacket, in a sumptuous palette of neutrals, pinks and golds. His commitment to these iconic pieces made them all a part of Chanel’s storied legacy and brand identity, all of which have remained the most desirable of designs by its vast following.

Dedicated Dubai-based Chanel customer Noor Mohamed has been devoted to the French fashion house for as long as she can remember, shopping both vintage and current season. “I stay loyal to Chanel because it’s always been true to its classic style,” she says. “Karl Lagerfeld’s name is synonymous with the house, and his aesthetic was imbued with cultural and historical reference points which respected Chanel’s signature.”

But not all brands carry the weight of Chanel, and as the years pass, creative directors retire, and the baton is passed on. The new heads are faced with the difficult task of living up to the legacies of their predecessors and appeasing longtime followers of the brand, while also diversifying target markets and keeping a generation of millennials and Gen Z's with significant spending power, hooked.

It isn’t just the designer behind a label, or the prestige of a brand’s name, that draws a consumer to its product. Rather, it’s a mixture of both – the legacy of a fashion house provides a great backing for a designer, but their own talent and vision is what will land pieces on red carpets and trending on social media. Gucci, for example, was battling hard with other established luxury brands to capture the attention of new customer base before Alessandro Michele stepped in and revived the spirit of the label, reworking logo-splashed patterns from the archives to appeal to a younger audience in 2016. Creating clothes with a certain type of woman in mind — in Alessandro's case, granny-chic magpies – he attracted a whole generation of young, new fans, eager to spend their money on what has become the most successful fashion brand on the planet, with Gucci's annual sales figures increasing 25 per cent, 44 per cent and 20 per cent for the brand year-on-year respectively. Similarly, the glam rock party girl borne of Hedi Slimane's vision of Saint Laurent brought the label back to life. Exiting Saint Laurent after four years, in 2016 the baton was passed to Anthony Vaccarello.

Maintaining the hot young customer base by sticking with Saint Laurent's lucrative new aesthetic, sales of the brand have increased by a minimum 20 per cent annually since 2012. The creative direction of American fashion house, Oscar de la Renta meanwhile, was handed to Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, the millennial design duo behind Monse, in 2016. In an exclusive interview with MOJEH, the

96 designers described the task of retaining brand loyalty as an almost instinctive one. “The house has a strong clientele; all we had to do was sort of refresh her closet, update it and inject new ideas into it, like denim or suiting, or evening separates, and move her forward that way,” says Fernando.

“I think by introducing the new elements, we’re inviting new customers to explore the house of Oscar that we didn’t have before. Creating the new ideas also creates new price points that allow for a new, younger customer to enter the house.”

For designers seeking to retain the brand loyalty of a luxury label, this approach is key – striking a balance between the original aesthetic of the label while modernising it with their own artistic flair that will in turn resonate with younger shoppers. But sometimes, this can backfire. Isabel Pintado, the fashion-savvy senior vice president and regional managing director at interior design studio Wilson Associates, always considered herself a loyal Celine fan – that is, until Hedi Slimane took over in 2018. Previously the golden boy of Saint Laurent, a label that contrasts dramatically with Celine in terms of aesthetic, he infused the famously minimalist brand with an edginess Isabel wasn’t too thrilled about.

Riccardo Tisci's Burberry aesthetic one of the latest brands to be welcomed to The Modist’s array of luxury labels

“Celine is a brand that I’ve been buying for about 15 years, I just loved how the clothes never aged. The cuts their designers were known for made you feel great without looking overly tight or overexposed. It’s something that really suited who I am,” she explains. “But the new collections deviate from the essence of what Celine is a little too much for me. It has gone very rock and roll, which is not necessarily why I bought things from the brand. When I go into a Celine boutique now, there are a few pieces that have sort of stayed loyal to the brand DNA, but nearly everything else has Hedi’s personal mark on it, which just isn’t for me – it’s for a much younger crowd.”

While a great deal of consumers may be ignorant about the creative director behind a particular label, many of today’s luxury shoppers –particularly millennials — are considerably more fashion-literate. Not merely seek out items that are trending on runways or social media feeds, they’re knowledgeable about the history, identity and ethos of the brands they shop.

“The modern consumer is self-aware. Fashion houses and creative directors have been moving around frequently, and the customer is resilient to these changes in the industry. In turn, brand loyalty plays a key role to all consumers,” says Sasha

CELINE AW19 Celine’s new aesthetic, under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, previously of Saint Laurent and Dior Homme.

Sarokin, buying and fashion director of Dubai-based luxury e-tailer The Modist, which recently welcomed fashion giants Burberry, Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana to its roster of brands. “Designers of luxury fashion houses play a vital role in maintaining a brand’s legacy, but also ensuring these brands stay alive with innovation in design and through the creation of new, relevant trends in the industry.”

Innovative designs in line with current trends do indeed lure in shoppers, but maintaining brand loyalty goes far beyond aesthetics. Brands are not iron-clad or untouched by judgement or criticism, especially from GenZ, who demand responsible design and accountability. No matter how loyal they may be to a particular brand, these consumers will speak out and take a stand against products or campaigns that conflict with their personal values. A social media uproar ensued early last season, after a Gucci SS19 sweater was found to be racially insensitive towards African Americans, while singer Katy Perry received a similarly negative reaction to a controversial design from her eponymous shoe range.

But just as influencer marketing can sway digital-savvy shoppers, it may also impact negatively upon brand loyalty.

When Bella Hadid, a face of Dior Beauty, posted images of her foot placed in front of the UAE flag, many of her Arab fans on social media announced they were boycotting the brand – some even posted videos of themselves destroying their Dior beauty products.

Conversely, luxury labels that are taking steps to celebrate diversity or promote social responsibility are being embraced by consumers. “Brands like Nanushka, who focus on vegan leather, have made sustainability a trend

Celine devotee Isabel Pintado is not a fan of their new creative director’s designs

which impacts the world for the better,” explains Sasha.

“Younger creatives can help retain the brand’s long-term clientele by understanding what the modern-day consumer is looking for, and ensure their offering is in line with that.”

And while creating new products that tally with social movements and design trends is a way to keep consumers interested, much of the time, brand loyalty stems from dedication to enduring cuts and styles that have remained timeless over the decades. “I keep going back to the ‘classics’ from beloved labels – a trench coat from Burberry, a floral dress from Dolce & Gabbana,” says Sasha.

Consider the Birkin bag by Hermès, which continues to enjoy its cult status as one of the world’s most coveted luxury products. Do Birkin buyers, who have spent anywhere from Dhs45,000 to Dhs1 million on each exotic-skin bag, know anything about the current creative director of Hermès?

Her name is Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, but it’s unlikely to roll off the tongue of every Birkin owner. In such cases, brand loyalty has nothing at all to do with the head of a fashion house, their talent, artistic vision or social or environmental causes that they may champion, and everything to do with a brand’s signature style that has remained resilient through time: an it-item with unwavering appeal, regardless of its hefty price tag.

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MOJEH FASHION

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

THE SEASON AHEAD Photography: GoRunway.com. Words: Dina Kabbani

From statement shoulders and sequins for day, to pretty-but-not florals, here’s your indispensable guide to the breakout trends of AW19

SUNSHINE STATE Warm mimosa, sweet buttercup, or firey dijon - autumn’s most uplifting colour is a beaming bolt of sunshine yellow. Wear head-to-toe for an instant boost of sartorial vitamin D.

VALENTINO

FENDI

CAROLINA HERRERA

100

SIES MARJAN

ANNAKIKI

OFF-WHITE

MARC JACOBS

AIGNER

DOUBLE ESPRESSO Chocolate, coffee, taupe and toffee – if it’s beautiful and brown, you need it in your wardrobe this season. A step on from summer’s love affair with beige, embrace deeper tones of espresso, conker and chestnut paired with black and cream in contrasting textures for extra impact.

TOD’S

CHANEL

BURBERRY

102

MAX MARA

LOUIS VUITTON

LOEWE

FENDI

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

BALENCIAGA

ROKSANDA

PRABAL GURUNG

ANNAKIKI

REJINA PYO

104

BLOCK PARTY The rule of thumb when it comes to colour this season is to clash, rather than stick to the same tonal family. From fuchsia pink on sunrise orange to shamrock green over egg yolk yellow, these colour pairings break all the classic rules – in the best way possible.

UNITED COLOUR OF BENETTON

VICTORIA BECKHAM

ANNA SUI MSGM

EMPORIO ARMANI

MARNI

MIU MIU

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

ISABEL MARANT

GIVENCHY

106 HIGH SHINE

ERMANNO SCERVINO

HERMÈS

LOUIS VUITTON

PALM ANGELS

ALTUZARRA

BOTTEGA VENETA

PROENZA SCHOULER

HELMUT LANG

FANCY PANTS

THE LEATHER FORECAST Synonymous with rock legends, biker gangs and for most millennials, The Matrix, leather and its rebellious mood of strength and defiance dominated at Isabel Marant, Givenchy and Altuzarra, giving us attitude packed aesthetics to love.

CHECKS APPEAL

DIOR

CHANEL

J.W.ANDERSON

TOD’S

It’s hip to be square this season as tartan and classic Saville Row checks – think Prince of Wales and windowpane – merge together for a heritage meets modern take on grid-based patterns.

Better be mad about plaid if you want to fit in this AW19.

XXXXXXXX NATASHA ZINKO

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LOUIS SALVATORE VUITTON FERREGAMO

LANVIN

VICTORIA BECKHAM

MARC JACOBS

THE CAPED CRUSADER

KHAITE

CELINE

ALL ABOUT LACE

ETRO

VALENTINO

SAINT LAURENT

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

A prevalent trend in the spring collections, lace is set to stick around as the winter chill sets in. Think sultry noir numbers and peekaboo lattice-like work, an edgy update on a romantic classic.

XXXXXXXX DOLCE & GABBANA

110

LOEWE

AKRIS

MARC JACOBS

PRADA

OLIVIER THEYSKENS

ERMANNO SCERVINO

BLANC BOUDOIR

IN BLOOM

MSGM

RICHARD QUINN

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

SIMONE ROCHA

RODARTE

Springtime may be a distant memory, but you can still inject some seasonal joie de vivre into winter with dark and moody florals, which blossomed in abundance on coats and burst into life on everything from elegant midis and maxis to voluminous gowns.

ANDREAS KRONTHALER

PREEN

PASTEL POSIES Y PROJECT

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PRADA

DRIES VAN NOTEN

MIU MIU

SKIRTING ISSUES MATTY BOVAN

ERDEM

BOTTEGA VENETA

ONE KNIT WONDER Bold patterns, chunky texturing and oversized cable cardigans – this season’s knitwear packs serious fashion flair. Layer with your favourite knee-grazing skirt or wide-legged pants and finish the look with a sophisticated beret to elevate the glamour quota.

ECKHAUS LATTA

CHLOÉ

MISSONI

114

LANVIN

J.W.ANDERSON

STELLA MCCARTNEY SACAI

ULLA JOHNSON

ERDEM

ATTICO

BURBERRY

FEATHERED FRIENDS

MARY KATRANTZOU

BALMAIN

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WINGING IT Flying from Milan to Paris, a flock of feathered fancies adorned everything from the every day to the opulent. From gowns at Attico to leather coats at Marine Serre, it’s time to shake your tail feather.

SIES MARJAN

VALENTINO

MARINE SERRE

ROKSANDA

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

ARTHUR ARBESSER

POP YOUR COLLAR

METALLIC MOMENT Burnished brass, shiny gunmetal and pewter chrome – this season’s take on high shine is reserved solely for special occasions. Stock up on chokers and lashings of silver hoops for extra zing!

MICHAEL KORS

BROCK COLLECTION

ACNE

ALBERTA FERRETTI

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CELINE

BALMAIN

MOSCHINO

ALTUZARRA

DAVID KOMA

CLOAK AND SWAGGER Fashion’s adult take on the superhero cape offered numerous iterations on the sleek silhouette, from Celine’s classic cloaks to nomadic ponchos at Etro and something a bit more dramatic (thank you, Chanel) for those who like to make an entrance.

CELINE

BURBERRY

ANTONIO MARRAS

120

ETRO

ERMANNO SCERVINO

CHANEL

MAX MARA

GOWNING AROUND

BRANDON MAXWELL

RODARTE

TOMO KOIZUMI

MARY KATRANTZOU

Thought you’d be wearing nothing but heavy separates and tweedy checks come autumn? Designers served up a rainbow of va-va-voom gowns that pumped up the volume and let drama rule. Bigger is definitely better as far as this season’s frock tactics are concerned.

XXXXXXXX ROKSANDA

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DOLCE & GABBANA

COCKTAIL HOUR

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

RICHARD QUINN

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

MOLLY GODDARD

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

LADY IN RED

LACOSTE

GABRIELA HEARST

ROLAND MOURET

FENDI

BURBERRY

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THE NEW MINIMAL AW19’s return to pared-back silhouettes and unfussy fabrics ushers in a new wave of minimalism that’s all about fuss-free combinations.

Think leather shirts with A-line skirts, silk satin slip dresses under soft suede coats and butterscotch slingback pumps to pair with everything.

LOEWE

JIL SANDER

STELLA MCCARTNEY

TOD’S

MARGARET HOWELL

HERMÈS

LOW-KEY UTILITY What happens when fashion and function combine? You get a trend that literally covers all bases. Think practical boiler suits, earth-toned cargo pants, and jackets with numerous handy pockets to carry all your stuff around in.

MAX MARA

JACQUEMUS

PRADA

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SACAI

ISABEL MARANT

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

STELLA MCCARTNEY

MIU MIU

LONGCHAMP

J.W.ANDERSON

VICTORIA BECKHAM

CELINE

TOD’S

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BOURGEOIS, S’IL VOUS PLAIT? Beloved by ’70s middle-class Parisians, bourgeois is now the preserve of 2019’s style set thanks to a slew of retro-inspired runways.

Take your cues from Hedi Slimane’s silk blouse and pleated culotteclad ’70s girls at Celine to J.W.Anderson, who added chunky gold necklaces to his bourgeois babes for a touch of millenial modernity.

MAX MARA

FENDI

CHLOÉ MARNI

BALENCIAGA

SUIT YOURSELF

CHANEL

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

MICHAEL KORS

DIOR

It’s no longer a man’s world, and the array of super-slick women’s suiting was a major nod to the new era of grown-up girl power. Just add statement shoulders and killer heels to be a boardroom badass.

XXXXXXXX ACNE

130

SAINT LAURENT

MAISON MARGIELA

GABRIELA HEARST

GUCCI

JACQUEMUS

DAVID KOMA

STATEMENT SHOULDERS

LANVIN

VERSACE

J.W.ANDERSON

TOD’S

SACAI

132

BALENCIAGA GIVENCHY

DIOR

STELLA MCCARTNEY LOUIS VUITTON

Whether in leather, houndstooth or classic wool, a belted coat makes the perfect shield to protect against the elements this season. Wrapped around you and cinched in tight, you’re cold-proofed and super-chic for winter.

ETRO

ELEGANTLY WAISTED

RODARTE

DRIES VAN NOTEN

SIES MARJAN

SALLY LAPOINTE

TOM FORD

134

THE POWER OF PURPLE The colour of passion, princely robes and majestic gems, purple is reigning supreme as muted mauves, soft lavenders and the most luxurious of lilacs dominate for AW19.

KATE SPADE

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

CUSHNIE

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

MICHAEL HALPERN

136

DAYTIME DAZZLE

CELINE

DIOR

MICHAEL HALPERN

SELF PORTRAIT

SIES MARJAN

Moving from pm to am, sequins have become a viable daytime option.

Go for the hi-lo perspective, and pair with denim to temper the drama or full-on, head-to-toe to make effortless look extraordinary.

BADGLEY MISCHKA

SALLY LAPOINTE

KOCHÉ TORY BURCH

MICHAEL KORS

HIDE AND CHIC Forget blending in; AW19’s camo prints are all about standing out. Think combat cool in utilitarian jackets, oversized puffers and head-to-toe army green nylon as seen at Prada.

KOCHETO

PRADA

HERMÈS

GABRIELA HEARST

138

TOM FORD

R13

CHLOÉ

PROENZA SCHOULER

MIU MIU

POWERFUL PROPORTIONS

LOUIS VUITTON

BALMAIN

STELLA MCCARTNEY

GUCCI

Seriously fierce at Isabel Marant and dramatically padded at Stella McCartney, the scene-stealing ’80s silhouette is back, bringing exaggerated statement tops for AW19. Wear belted or buttoned up for a Dynasty-diva inspired hourglass figure.

XXXXXXXX BALENCIAGA

140

SELF PORTRAIT

SAINT LAURENT

PRABAL GURUNG

REJINA PYO

ISABEL MARANT

CUSHNIE

SOLO SHOULDER

DUVET DAZE

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

ASAI

Staying cosy and cool are made easy this winter thanks to the ultrapractical, water-resistant puffer jacket. Think pillowy outerwear in colourful, oversized silhouettes that will have you praying for rain, icy winds and even a touch of snow to test out their snuggle factor.

XXXXXXXX ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

142

SACAI

GIVENCHY

ECKHAUS LATTA

DRIES VAN NOTEN

OFF-WHITE

DIOR

BACK TO BLACK

144

ACC ESSO RIES Photography: GoRunway.com. Words: Dina Kabbani

Wave goodbye to ugly sneakers and hello to long and lean knee-high boots, kitten heels and the bourgeois clasp tote, as MOJEH presents the most covetable accessory trends of AW19

NINA RICCI

HEAD-TURNING TOPPER

GUCCI

ANNA SUI

NINA RICCI

VALENTINO

From buckets to beanies, fedoras to baseball caps, and sunhats to snoods – the autumn line-up of chapeaux with chutzpah will satisfy just about any hat-wearing habit. Go exaggerated for some serious Handmaid’s Tale vibes in a standout Nina Ricci or Valentino bucket as the perfect fashion remedy to heinously bad hair days.

J.W.ANDERSON

146

VERSACE

ERDEM

DIOR

LOEWE

THE VEILED CHAPEAU SPORTMAX

SAINT LAURENT

LOUIS VUITTON

MATTY BOVAN

OFF-WHITE

MAISON MARGIELA

BOTTEGA VENETA

DRIES VAN NOTEN

148

There’s something deliciously cosy about winter’s duvet-like pouches; in duffel form and with extra stitching to define, these soft and waterproof pieces were made to match your puffer coat. How to wear them?

Casually toted under the arm, like you’re carrying a pillow to bed.

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

QUILT TRIP

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

VALENTINO

BURBERRY

FENDI

GUCCI

DIOR

ETRO

VERSACE

BALENCIAGA

LOGO CLASPS

CHANEL MANISH ARORA THOM BROWNE

LACOSTE

LOEWE MOSCHINO

From Chanel’s ski lift evening bags to Thom Browne’s pretty pup purses and Moschino’s fun take on the cash register, this season’s coolest party-bags are instant conversation starters.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

A NOVEL IDEA

J.W.ANDERSON

CHRISTOPHER KANE

BALENCIAGA

150

SIMONE ROCHA

JACQUEMUS

JIL SANDER

BOTTEGA VENETA

TOD’S

MAX MARA

LANVIN

CHANEL

PRADA

STAUD

BOSS

OFF-WHITE

FUZZY FRIENDS

THE UNIQUE PIECE

MUGLER

CELINE

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

REDEMPTION

152

Footwear trends may come and go, but the knee-high boot has cemented itself as a must-have wardrobe building block. Don’t own a pair? Invest in a mustard yellow version from Celine, or Mugler’s slick patent leather statement-makers to kick off a new season obsession.

AKRIS

THE LONG & LEAN

TOM FORD

PROENZA SCHOULER

BOTTEGA VENETA

ASHLEY WILLIAMS

VERSACE

PACO RABBANE

LEONARD

CAROLINA HERRERA

GIORGIO ARMANI

HUSSIEN ZHANG

BURBERRY

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

COOL KITTEN HEELS

SQUARE TOES

ACNE CELINE

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

154

PLATFORM PEDDLERS

LOEWE

STELLA MCCARTNEY

PRADA

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Whether you’re looking to boost your height by a few inches or just toughen up a printed maxi, a clompy, utilitarian boot is your stomping style salvation. Perfectly practical and in blinding bubblegum pink, Miuccia’s lug-sole combat boots will be a winner amongst Prada-philes around the globe – watch them sell out fast!

MAISON MARGIELA

PACO RABBANE

MICHAEL KORS

MATTY BOVAN

MIU MIU

ANNA SUI

AREA

DIOR

HERMÈS

DOLCE & GABBANA

OLD SCHOOL MARY JANES

BALMAIN MARC JACOBS PACO RABBANE

MICHAEL HALPERN

SALLY LAPOINTE

VERSACE

If Versace and Balmain, the bastions of sexy, have given their stamp of approval, hosiery is a hot trend worth considering. Follow suit and add a sheer pair to this season’s flirty cocktail dresses for ’80s-era glamour.

MIU MIU

A TIGHT SPOT

RICHARD QUINN

GUCCI

ACNE

156

CYNTHIA ROWLEY

CHANEL

COACH

FENDI

RICHARD QUINN

PRADA

PACO RABANNE

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

STAUD

LONGCHAMP

CHLOÉ

MICHAEL KORS

LOUIS VUITTON

REPTILE RULES

FLORA & FAUNA

PRABAL GURUNG STELLA MCCARTNEY

ARTHUR ARBESSER

VERSACE

LOEWE

Hanging loosely in a pair or simply swinging solo, AW19’s dangerously dangly earrings have lots of personality. Wear with confidence that matches their statement-making allure.

GIVENCHY

LEND ME YOUR EARS

VALENTINO

LOUIS VUITTON

CUSHNIE

158

ADEAM

DOLCE & GABBANA

ALESSANDRA RICH

BRANDON MAXWELL

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

SIMONE ROCHA

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

MIU MIU

AREA

CHANEL

PEARLS RHINESTONES

DIOR

ETRO

160

IT’S A CINCH

SAINT LAURENT

J.W.ANDERSON

ALTUZARRA

ZIMMERMANN

The new season requires a substantial belt, whether for cinching in a dress or simply adding extra flourish to a pair of jeans. Wear on the narrowest part of your waist for hourglass definition.

RICHARD QUINN

MARINE SERRE

GUCCI

CELINE

ACNE

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

ETRO

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

DRIES VAN NOTEN

GLOVES BOWS

MASKS

162

UPTOWN GIRL Maria Grazia Chiuri’s fierce femme for AW19 takes on a rebellious attitude in easy-chic fashion that’s designed to be worn Photographed by Lara Jade Styled by Connie Berg

Dress,jewellery and Teddy-D slingback pumps, DIOR

164

Jacket,bustier, leather trousers, Saddle belt, jewellery and Dior Swing Monk shoes, DIOR

Dress, hat and jewellery, DIOR

166

Dress, jumpsuit, jewellery, Spectadior pump, DIOR

168

Jacket, shirt, skirt and Saddle belt, DIOR

170

Jumpsuit and jewellery, DIOR

Dress and jewellery, DIOR

172

Dress, jewellery, Dior Swing Monk shoes, DIOR

Skirt, jumpsuit, top, Saddle belt and jewellery, DIOR

174

This page: Dress and jewellery, DIOR | Opposite page: Dress, Teddy-D Slingback pump and jewellery, DIOR | Photography: Lara Jade at Atelier Management | Model: Kathie Lam at Elite Model Management | Casting Director: Bobby Gutierrez | Styling: Connie Berg at Atelier Management | Stylist’s Assistant: Kristy Hall | Make-up Artist: Deborah Altizio using Dior Beauty | Hair Stylist: John Ruidant at See Management using EVO Hair | Photographer’s Assistant: Hunter Arthur | Digital Tech: Jacob Skoglund | Post-production: Monica Chamorro

176

A GIRL FOR ALL SEASONS Luxury knitwear, tweed, parka jackets and cycling shorts make for a transeasonal final collection from Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld Photographed by Ina Lekiewicz Styled by Anna Hughes-Chamberlain

Jumpsuit in black, blue and white wool and cashmere, COCO NEIGE CAPSULE COLLECTION | Earrings in metal, glass beads, resin and strass, CHANEL

178

White, blue, grey and red blouse in printed charmeuse; Grey, red, yellow and blue cycling shorts in printed neoprene; Necklace in metal, glass beads and strass; Ivory, blue, pink and black lace-up booties in leather and canvas, CHANEL

Necklace in metal, glass beads and strass, CHANEL

180

Navy sweater in wool; Silver, red and navy leather shorts; Earrings in metal, glass beads and strass; Ivory, blue, pink and black lace-up booties in leather and canvas, CHANEL

Dress in grey, ecru and camel patterned wool. White leather belt. Earrings in metal, glass beads, resin and strass. Boots in beige wool and black leather, CHANEL

182

Black parka in coated toile; Black, ecru and red cashmere pullover; Bracelet in metal, glass beads, resin and strass; Cuff bracelet in metal, leather and glass beads; Boots in beige wool and black leather, CHANEL

Ecru parka in embellished lace; Ecru trousers in iridescent tweed; White leather belt, CHANEL

184

Navy blue, ecru, brown and grey patterned coat in tweed; Earrings in metal, resin and glass beads; Silver, red and navy leather shorts; White leather belt; Boots in beige wool and black leather, CHANEL

Fuchsia body in wool tweed; Fuchsia trousers in leather; Bracelet in metal, leather and glass beads; Earrings in metal, glass beads and strass, CHANEL

186

Camel, ecru and turquoise patterned dress in wool and cashmere; Belt in gold metal interlaced with turquoise leather; Bracelet in metal, glass beads, resin and strass; Cuff bracelet in metal, glass beads, resin and strass; Necklace in metal, glass beads, resin and strass; Brooch in metal, glass beads and strass; Boots in beige wool and black leather, CHANEL

Navy blue, ecru, brown and grey patterned coat in tweed; Silver, red and navy leather shorts; White leather belt; Silver, red and navy leather shorts; Boots in beige wool and black leather, CHANEL | Model: Freya Lawrence at Select Model Management | Stylist: Anna Hughes-Chamberlain at Stella Creatives | Hair and Make-up: Terri Capon using Noir et Blanc de Chanel – Fall/Winter 2019 Collection, CHANEL BEAUTY | Stylist’s assistant: Holly Chapman | Post-production: Paul Drozdowski | Production: Stella Creatives for MOJEH

188

SETTING THE TONE An autumnal palette infused with vintage prints in a structural form is the perfect balance between strength and tactile femininity Photographed by Ricardo Rivera Styled by Julie Brooke Williams

Jumper, skirt and belt, KENZO

190

Coat, scarf, MARC JACOBS | Earrings, JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE

Trousers, jumper, leather coat (worn underneath), coat (on top), MAX MARA | Earring (left), MANIA MANIA | Earring (right), LADY GREY | Ring (top) IO COLLECTIVE | Ring, JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE

192

Shirt, jacket, skirt, necklace, boots, CHLOÉ

194

Dress, coat, boots, BOTTEGA VENETA | Earrings, LADY GREY

Top, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Earring, MANIA MANIA | Ring, RAINBOW UNICORN BIRTHDAY SURPRISE

196

Jumper, trousers, coat, boots, BALENCIAGA

198

Coat, jewellery, belt and boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Shirt, cardigan, skirt and shoes, THOM BROWNE

200

Shirt, suit and shoes, GIVENCHY | Jewellery, RUSH

Suit and shrug, DRIES VAN NOTEN | Boots, GIVENCHY

202

Dress, jacket and tights, MIU MIU | Model: Mayara at The Identity | Make-up Artist: Deanna Melluso at See Management | Hair Stylist: David Cruz at Art Department | Photographer’s Assistant: Ivy Phan, Akiko | Stylist’s Assistant: Chaunielle Brown, Kiyana Panton | Production: That One Productions | Location: 7 Line Studio

204

THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL Summer may technically be over, but Louis Vuitton’s vibrant bags remain at the top of our hot list Photographed by Ziga Mihelcic Styled by Gemma Deeks

City Steamer bag, LOUIS VUITTON

Photography: Ziga Mihelcic at The Factory

206

Alma BB bag, LOUIS VUITTON

Petit Malle bag, LOUIS VUITTON

208

Twist PM bag, LOUIS VUITTON

210

Capucine mini bag, LOUIS VUITTON

Twist PM bag, LOUIS VUITTON

212

Petite Boite Chapeau bag, LOUIS VUITTON

Alma BB bag, LOUIS VUITTON

Photographed by Helene Sandberg

214

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JEWELLERY EDIT

THE COLOURFUL WORLD OF

HIGH JEWELLERY CINEMAGIA BY BVLGARI The “jeweller of the stars� dedicates its spectacular new high jewellery collection, Cinemagia, to iconic moments and characters in film. The result is a colourful, dramatic celebration of coloured stones and exceptional savoir faire, come together in Words: Natascha Hawke

jaw-dropping jewels. The Night at the Casino necklace is a subtle homage to the movie Casino in which glamorous Hollywood actress Sharon Stone wore Bulgari jewels.

Night at the Casino necklace with mandarin garnets, fancy-cut amethysts, diamonds and turquoise with one 16.85 carat manadarin garnet centre piece, BVLGARI

216 RIDERS OF THE KNGHTS BY LOUIS VUITTON

Passages necklace in white and rose gold with opals, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds, CHAUMET

The first high jewellery collection from the maison’s new design director Francesca Amfitheatrof, Riders of the Knights represents medieval heroines who changed the course of history against the odds through fierce determination. Historic icons like Joan of Arc and Queen Elizabeth inform the three divisions of Le Royaume, La Cavalière and La Reine, seen in diamond-set mesh that mimics chain mail and medieval iconography in the form of fleur-de-lys, daggers and crowns, cleverly brought into the modern day with the occassional appearance of Louis Vuitton’s monogram.

LES CIELS DE CHAUMET Celestial constellations full of energy, fiery bursts of gemstones that resemble the sun, and exotic birds encrusted with colourful stones, Les Ciels de Chaumet high jewellery collection is inspired not just by nature, but by an artist’s interpretation of it.

Hints of Van Gogh’s glittering sun, Turner’s stormy skies and Japanese paintings of birds are all seen in the awe-inspiring creations brought to life by intense precious stones, saturated in colour.

Rings in white gold and platinum with aquamarine and diamonds, LOUIS VUITTON

Lion Head necklace in white gold with sapphires, tourmalines, opals, garnets, spinels and diamonds, GUCCI

Tiger Head ring in white gold with spinels, tsavorites and diamonds, GUCCI

HORTUS DELICIARUM BY GUCCI With its wonderful Latin name, Gucci’s first high jewellery collection explodes onto the scene in full, kaleidoscopic force.

Comprising 200 pieces symbolic of Alessandro Michele’s eclectic vision, the three pillars of the collection: Eden, Arcadia and Xanadu, layer Rococo, Baroque and Georgian influence through one-of-a-kind pieces with bold colour and complex narratives at the heart.

PARIS VU DE 26 BY BOUCHERON The new collection from the Parisian jeweller was appropriately unveiled at the renovated Boucheron Family House at 26 Place Vendôme. Celebrating the many facets of the city of Paris, the collection also reveals the maison’s very first gemstone combining onyx, rock crystal and cacholong, which took two years to develop.

However, it’s the unexpected addition of a tropical parrot made from super light titanium, encrusted with gems that caught our attenton.

Nuri ear cuff in titanium, BOUCHERON

218

Olivia Palermo weas Vegetal Laces ear cuff and ring from the Native Bloom suite of Piaget’s Golden Oasis high jewellery collection

GOLDEN OASIS BY PIAGET A collection that will resonate with us here in the sandy vistas of the Middle East, Piaget’s Golden Oasis high jewellery collection chooses the desert landscape as its starting point. Three core Hypnotic Lights ring in yellow gold with pink sapphire and diamonds, PIAGET

narratives encompass the sun, water and a green oasis, with coloured stones at the heart of each suite: yellow and white diamonds represent the dazzling desert sun in Play of Lights; sparkling sapphires depict rushing water in Desert Minerals, and intense emeralds mimic lush foliage in Native Bloom.

Naturally, the remarkable gems that have been sourced are of the highest quality, taking Piaget’s expert gemologist one year to collect the diamonds for the Golden Hour set, and 450 hours of jewellery work, and one year to source the perfect, extremely rare emeralds found in the lush green Luxuriant Oasis set.

A special piece within the collection is the Secret Water watch that Irresistible Attraction ring in white gold with spessartite garnet and diamonds, PIAGET

resembles a pool of water created with a black opal, embedded in an 18k pink-gold desert plain. Sourced in Australia, opals have been favoured by Piaget since the 1960s, as once Monsieur Yves G. Piaget said: “One particular stone vividy illustrates the richness of the Earth: the opal, composed of a range of different crystals. The world according to Piaget resembles an opal, composed of various tastes and preferences.”

THE EMERALD EDIT

Opal ring in white gold with Paraiba tourmaline, blue sapphires and diamonds; Earrings in platinum with black opal and diamonds, DAVID MORRIS

CINDY CHAO THE ART JEWEL The granddaughter of an architect and daughter of a sculptor, Asian jewellery artist Cindy Chao continues to wow with her unique pieces, the Emerald Architectural necklace is no different.

ENCHANTED ISLE BY DAVID MORRIS Managing and creative director Jeremy Morris looked to the magnetic island of Mykonos, where he has a holiday home, for inspiration for his latest high jewellery collection for David Morris. Spending many summers on the island, he selected stones that perfectly reflect the natural beauty found by the Aegean Sea. Shocking pink bougainvillea that creeps throughout is represented by pink rubies; vivid yellow diamonds mimic the colourful fish found in the surrounding coral reefs, and opals bare resemblance to the breathtaking Aegean Sea and the blue-roofed, whitewashed villas, which are the recognised colours of Mykonos. Truly enchanting.

GEM DIOR Marking the 20th anniversary of Dior Fine Jewellery, Gem Dior high jewellery collection pays homage to the beauty of precious stones from creative director Victoire de Castellane.

Lovers Path bracelet in white and yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

ROMEO & JULIET

BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS In fair Verona where we lay our scene, two star-crossed lovers inspire Van Cleef & Arpels for 2019. Love has been at the heart of the maison since the start, and is now played out in narratives from Shakespeare’s world-famous story in

REPOSSI

brooches depicting the famous balcony

Repossi has become known for inherently cool

scene, rubies as roses, a symbolic

jewellery creations. Bringing ear cuffs, like this

pomegranate and more romantic symbolism,

Luminant earring, into high jewellery with pure

all encrusted in precious stones.

Parisian flair and exceptional craftmanship.

220

One-of-a-kind high jewellery necklace in white gold with turquoise, cabochon, sapphires, amethysts and diamonds, DE GRISOGONO

Pink Desert Bloom ring in white gold with pink and white diamonds, MESSIKA PRIVATE COLLECTION

MEDITERRANEO BY DE GRISOGONO

PRIVATE COLLECTION BY MESSIKA

As the name suggests, the vibrant jewels tones of de Grisogono’s new high

Unveiling both the second part of the Born to be Wild

jewellery line is inspired by La Dolce Vita and the sparkling blue of the

high jewellery and Private collections during Paris couture

Mediterranean sea. At the heart of the pieces are intense turquoise stones,

week, Valerie Messika continues to inspire with her

further highlighted by amethysts, pink sapphires and irridescent diamonds

one-of-a-kind designs and spectacular settings.

emulating the richness of the flora and fauna that surrounds the water.

Born to be Wild is a bohemian-luxe line-up using natural

The result is jaw-dropping, high-energy pieces that perfectly evoke the Latin

materials like wood and feather to create a youthful, free-

spirit of living life to the full.

spirited approach to high jewellery that is entirely on-point.

Jewel Box Flora ring, TIFFANY & CO.

Necklace in fairmined white gold with pink sapphires and diamonds, CHOPARD

TIFFANY JEWEL BOX

CHOPARD RED CARPET COLLECTION 2019

“We wanted to create a collection that speaks to connoisseurs of the

For 2019, Caroline Scheufele chose Love as her theme for the

unusual and unexpected, to people who are looking for something they’ve

annual Red Carpet Collection, and don’t we need more of it in

never seen or worn before,” says Reed Krakoff, chief artistic officer,

the world right now. In all the colours of the rainbow, the suites

of the Tiffany & Co. 2019 Blue Book Collection, Tiffany Jewel Box,

celebrate life in winning pairings of coloured gemstones, from

due for release in October. A celebration of the world’s most beautiful

rubies and diamonds, to exotic tourmalines and tanzanites,

gemstones, expect bold pieces to treasure forever.

amethysts and pink to blue sapphires. Gorgeous.

MAGNITUDE BY CARTIER This latest reveal from the French jewellery maison takes high jewellery in an experimental direction by marrying precious stones with ornamental hard stones like quartz and rock crystal. The result is a diverse collection of unusual, impactful pieces that are hard to forget.

Zemia bracelet and earrings in white gold with opal, sapphires, garnets and diamonds, CARTIER

222

MOJEH JEWELLERY

French actress and Chanel ambassador, Alma Jodorowsky wears Aigle Protecteur necklace in platinum with diamonds from the new high jewellery collection Le Paris Russe de Chanel

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE Though Coco Chanel never visited Russia, she fell in love with its people and culture from afar. It's this passion that informs the maison’s latest high jewellery collection, Le Paris Russe de Chanel

The Foulard necklace from Le Paris Russe de Chanel high jewellery collection

Words by Natascha Hawke

Photography: Courtesy of Chanel

D

uring couture week in July, Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, unveiled Le Paris Russe de Chanel high jewellery collection in the familiar surroundings of the historic Grand Palais. Transformed into a mirrored maze, evoking Gabrielle Chanel’s own mirror framed by the two-headed eagle of Imperial Russia, that hangs in the apartment on Rue Cambon, the presentation in which jewels lined the room only scratched the surface of what is a deeply informed narrative of romance, friendship, culture and symbolism.

Chanel’s fascination with Russia began around 1917, when Russian emigré came to settle in Paris during the Russian Revolution. Aristocrats, artists and intellectuals escaped to the free-thinking city, bringing with them new traditions and culture out of which a ‘Russian Paris’ emerged. Parts of the city – mainly the 15th and 16th arondissements – became the stomping ground for the so-called wealthy White Russians, introducing the likes of famous composer Igor Stravinsky, art critic and founder of the Ballet Russes Sergei Diaghilev, and pianist Misia Sert into Gabrielle Chanel’s life.

“The Russians fascinate me,” she confided to French author Paul Morand at the time. But where her captivation began with friends, it soon turned to lovers when she was reacquainted with the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich while holidaying in Biarritz in 1920. They embarked on a passionate but shortlived affair which had a profound effect on Mademoiselle.

He immersed her into the Russian way of life, and expanded her circle of friends with introductions to exiled nobles such as Prince Koutoussoff, who she hired as a private secretary.

Russian influences began to filter down into her designs, enriching tunics that were once minimal – in the classic style of a Chanel dress – with motifs and Russian embroidery. It was the Grand Duke’s sister, Maria Pavlovna who Chanel recruited to produce the maison’s embroideries, after persuading her to

Gabrielle Chanel and the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, 1920

224 The mirror with two-headed eagle that hangs in Mademoiselle Chanel’s apartment on Rue Cambon, Paris

Sarafane ring in white gold and yellow gold with yellow diamond and white diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

Anna Pavlova in costume, 1910

found her own workshop, Kitmir. Other traditional Russian fashion influences in the form of fur capes, roubachka blouses, tunics and smocks were increasingly favoured by Chanel, and in turn by her clients. Even the Chanel No.5 fragrance was composed by the perfumer to the Russian court, Ernst Beaux.

Surprisingly she never travelled to Russia, instead choosing to keep it as an imagined place, conjured by the stories told to her by her artist-aristocrat friends, and by carefully selecting Russian-inspired artefacts for her apartment at 31 Rue Cambon, where still today the iconic mirror framed by a gilded, two-headed eagle, a symbol of imperial Russia, hangs at the centre of the living room.

It’s this mirror that informs much of the story of Le Paris Russe de Chanel high jewellery collection, appearing in numerous iterations from two-headed eagle clasps, to the octagonal shape of the mirrored glass at its the centre – also the shape of the No.5 fragrance's bottle stopper – appearing as the settings in pieces such as the Sarafane and Aigle Cambon rings.

“This collection is a dream of Russia for Chanel,” explains Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio.

“She never went to Russia, so it’s the vision of Chanel seen through the mirror in her apartment.”

The 63-piece collection took two years to create, as is the standard timeline for a high jewellery collection at Chanel, and it is the first to introduce the eagle into Chanel Fine Jewellery's repertoire of motifs, joining the camellia, the feather, the lion (for Leo, Chanel's astrological sign), and the wheatsheaf as house icons that Patrice will revisit in his collections so as to "establish it in Chanel's universe."

For some jewellery maisons, the inspiration for a collection begins with the stones; at Chanel, says Patrice "it starts with the idea. It is the story we want to tell, and we want to develop. Then the drawings, the inspiration, the crossover between them creates the link between Chanel and Russia."

Unlike Chanel, he did travel to Russia, for the first time in 2013, to fully immerse himself in its culture before starting on his sketches. Looking to Chanel's past designs inspired by the region, to her apartment, her relationships and to the techniques used in Russian jewellery-making to inform his creations.

Gabrielle Chanel with Vera de Bosset Soudeikine, Igor Stravinsky, Marie-Laure de Noailles, Serge Lifar, Yvonne Giraud and Jacques Février at a dinner given by Misia Sert, 1938

Some pieces demonstrate more obvious influences than others, for example, the Blé Maria brooch which resembles a Russian military badge or epaulette, adorned with a shocking yellow mandarin garnet at its centre with coloured tourmalines representing traditional embroidery. The Folklore set of earrings, cuff and ring with a rich red enamel base, is an obvious homage to the country's love of opulence and colour, and the Perlé technique seen in the Sarafane pieces creates Russian-inspired beadwork. "They all bring something different to the message, to the story," shares Patrice. "Some are very technical pieces and some, like the cuffs, are very rich in style, very Chanel."

Other pieces are a celebration of what the maison is recognised for: exceptional, wearable creations set with hundreds of sparkling diamonds. He points to the Aigle Cambon necklace in platinum set with white diamonds. "On this one, the clip is detachable and the stones are amazing. We have about 100 certificates, as they are all certified stones, and the quality is the same for all, meaning it’s extremely high quality. This is what makes the value of this necklace, and why it’s the masterpiece."

But it isn't the value of the stones that solely inform Patrice's designs. "Pieces have to be worn by a woman and have to be easy to wear, and be comfortable. This is a very spectacular necklace because of the stones, but the look of the necklace is quite easy to be worn, it’s very flexible, and this is also very important."

A collection that fuses rich culture, history, passion and romance, with exquisite craftmanship and comfort, Le Paris Russe de Chanel is a sensitive homage to the storied maison's female protagonist, and to the women who she inspired, and continues to inspire today.

Aigle Cambon transformable necklace in platinum and diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

Blé Maria brooch in yellow gold, white gold with yellow sapphire, pink spinels, mandarin garnets, coloured tourmalines and diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

Folklore bracelet in white gold, yellow gold with enamel, blue sapphires, pink sapphires, mandarin and tsavorite garnets, cultured pearls and diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

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COME DINE WITH ME Feast your eyes on delectable fine jewellery pieces encrusted with diamonds and precious stones that will upscale any dinner party

Model: Mary at MMG | Make-up: Azu at Charlotte Tilbury

Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson

Les BlĂŠs Brins de Pretemps bracelet and ring in white gold with diamonds, peridots and tourmalines, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY

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Rings in white gold and jade, AMY GATTAS

RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman in white gold with onyx, mother-of-pearl and diamond dial, RICHARD MILLE

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L’Heure Du Diamant Buckle watch in white gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl, CHOPARD

Soleste rings in white gold, diamond and coloured gemstones, TIFFANY & CO.

232

Rose Dior Pre Catalan rings in pink gold with diamonds and amethyst, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

Blue Velvet necklace in titanium with diamonds, VHERNIER

234

Excalibur watch in white gold with diamonds, ROGER DUBOIS

India ring in pink gold with diamonds and opals, DE GRISOGONO

236

Savannah ring in yellow gold with citrine, GEORG JENSEN

Grand Bal Plisse Ruban watch in white gold with diamonds, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

238

Limelight Gala watch in white gold with diamonds, PIAGET

Freccia brooch in white gold with diamonds and jade, VHERNIER

240

Quadripearl ring in yellow gold with pearls, AURATE | Tsarine potato with Russian Oscietra caviar, BELUGA at MANDARIN ORIENTAL JUMEIRA DUBAI

Les BlĂŠs Brins de Pretemps bracelet and ring in white gold with diamonds, peridots and tourmalines, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY

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Bone cuff in yellow gold, Elsa Peretti for TIFFANY & CO. | Gourmet House Beluga Caviar XX, courtesy of Beluga, Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai

Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson. Words: Gemma Deeks

BEAUTY EDIT

BEAUTY NEWS

From routine-changing launches to get-the-glow facials, introducing the new season’s luxury beauty must-haves Coeur Battant, LOUIS VUITTON

244 LIFE LINE Rarely seen without her signature winged liner, Huda Kattan saw a gap in the market (and the Huda Beauty collection) for a long-lasting, matte black eyeliner. Introducing Life Liner – a super-matte, waterproof and smudge-proof black eyeliner with 48-hour staying power, that was three years in the making. Always looking to go above and beyond with her products, the Life Liner is dual-ended, with both pencil and liquid for the ease of creating multiple looks. We’ll be lining up.

Life Liner, HUDA BEAUTY at SEPHORA

Arch Brow Micro Sculpting Pencil, HOURGLASS

BROW GOALS CHARLOTTE TILBURY

Known for luxury innovation and modern design while still being kind to the environment, Hourglass is the beauty brand to be buying

THAT FLAWLESS FEELING

now. This month sees the launch of its Arch Brow Micro Sculpting

This month, Charlotte Tilbury drops its biggest product launch of the year, Airbrush Flawless Foundation. Boasting 24-hour hydration, a flawless and poreless finish and ground-breaking ingredients to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, the new foundation is available in an impressive 44 shades.

CELINE

MODERN SCENT Hedi Slimane has created a “Haute Parfumerie” collection for CELINE, comprising 11 perfumes, nine of which are released this autumn. Known for his gender-fluid RTW collections, the fragrances use notes that make no distinct differentiation between what are considered masculine or feminine notes.

Pencil, exclusively at Sephora. An ultra-precise, ultra-slim pencil with a tiny tip that can create the thinnest hair-like strokes for natural-looking brows.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, CHANEL

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ON OUR RADAR

A VIP EXPERIENCE Newlook Salon has opened its doors in Dubai’s Al Quoz 2, and is one of the swankiest salons we’ve seen. The premium beauty destination offers a luxury experience for women looking for a one-stop-shop for their beauty needs without compromising on quality. +971 4 330 1310

BALMAIN

THE HYDRA-PEEL FACIAL

MAGIC MANI Tips & Toes’ newest treatment aims to give stressed hands and feet that extra bit of attention. Using the power of

This four-in-one treatment uses a small suction device to vacuum debris out of your pores, while simultaneously pushing in potent actives to moisturise, brighten, plump, and protect the skin with no downtime. A sure-fire win

crystal healing, upgrade your usual mani/pedi to improve spiritual, mental and physical wellbeing too – it even gets Victoria Beckham’s seal of approval. +971 4 399 0550

for anyone looking to turn back the hands of time in under 60-minutes.

Dhs680, SO Spa, Sofitel Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa, +971 44 55 66 77

BIO LIFT & BIO LIGHT FACIAL Targeting tired, ageing skin, this multi-stage treatment focuses on lifting and brightening using state-of-the-art microcurrent technology and LED light therapy, paired with Ling New York skincare products only available at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai. An instant pick-me-up for an imminent event. Dhs1,100, 90 minutes, Mandarin Oriental, Jumeira

CRYSTAL OPULESSENCE FACIAL

BEAUTY EMERGENCY?

Combining the healing energy of Camelian, Rose Quartz and Green Aventurine

Impending hair wash but run out of your favourite Kerastase

crystals with a nutrient-rich plant essence synergy designed to bring new life

shampoo? Pastels to the rescue! Download the award-winning

and radiance to the complexion, the results are evident on the inside too,

Dubai beauty salon’s new App, and in just 30 minutes, your

bringing balance to your physical, emotional, mental and spiritual self.

must-have beauty products will be delivered to your door.

Dhs850, 90 minutes, Talise Spa, Jumeirah Beach Hotel and Spa

Download bgX on the app store

Dior Joy Intense, DIOR

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EXPERT ADVICE Certified Dermatologist Dr Lana Kashlan tells MOJEH the three ingredients you should be introducing to your skincare regime

Zincscreen 100% Mineral Lotion, SUPERGOOP DIOR BEAUTY

URBAN NIGHTS For his AW19 collection, Peter Philips was inspired by an urban background, creating palettes electrified with arty colours of the city’s neon lights. Designed with the modern woman in mind, “an urban woman who manages her career and intellectual life. A strong woman

ZINC “Zinc-based sunscreens are physical sun blockers and the most protective to the skin, so you don’t have to worry about allergenicity or irritation. Supergoop’s Zincscreen Mineral Lotion is tinted, and blends perfectly with most skin types.”

who plays with make-up without losing credibility,” says Philips, the collection aims to spark creativity and bring out personality, with its satin-finish shadows and luminous matte lipsticks destined to make a statement.

Professional C Serum, OBAGI

VITAMIN C “Antioxidants like Vitamin C help clean up free radical damage caused by ultraviolet light, protecting the DNA of skin cells from developing UV-induced mutations that can lead to ageing and potentially skin cancer. Use in the morning under your SPF as the two work synergistically to protect the skin.

My favourite is Obagi Vitamin C 15% serum.”

Seeking Silence Facial Hydrator, AESOP at PERFUMERY & CO Retinol 1.0, SKINCEUTICALS

COOL, CALM AND COLLECTED

RETINOL

Aesop’s latest launch is formulated to address the visible and invisible physical sensations

“Vitamin A creams promote cell turnover to keep

associated with sensitive skin and skin prone to sensitivities – ideal for those living in extreme

pores unclogged, brighten the complexion and

climates like the UAE. The Seeking Silence Facial Hydrator uses two ingredients new to Aesop;

stimulate collagen production to prevent and

a green microalgae rich in anti-oxidants, and an extract from dormant bulbs of daffodils.

correct the signs of ageing. For sensitive skin,

Working together to soothe skin irritation and reduce redness, expect calm, comforted skin

I recommend Skinceuticals Retinol which ranges in

the moment you apply to the face. Available September 30

strength, depending on how sensitive your skin is.”

Mémoire d’Une Odeur, GUCCI

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1. Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner, CHANEL | 2. Perma Precision Liquid Eyeliner, PAT MCGRATH LABS at NET-A-PORTER | 3. Fineliner Ultra-Skinny Gel Eye Crayon, MARC JACOBS BEAUTY

GO BOLD OR GO HOME Take your cues from the catwalk, from Dior to Missoni, where bold, graphic MISSONI

From left: Overnight Exfoliating Booster, SARAH CHAPMAN at BLOOMINGDALESDUBAI | Opening Act Overnight Resurfacing Skin Renewal Treatment, ELIXSERI | Age Reversing All-in-One Concentrate, VENN all at NET-A-PORTER

liners literally drew attention to the eye, with dramatic sweeps of kohl offset with polished skin and a slick of lip balm. Keep the focus top-heavy.

Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect eyeshadow palette in Noir Suprême, CHANEL

BACK TO SCHOOL

WE’LL ALWAYS HAVE PARIS

As vacation season comes to an end and we return to work, it’s time to

Chanel’s global creative make-up and colour designer Lucia Pica was

re-boot your beauty regime, and focus on reversing the signs of a summer of fun.

inspired by the historic codes of the fashion house and the colours of

Net-a-Porter’s newest arrivals promise to revive and rejuvenate as the new season

Paris for her AW19 collection. Invest in their latest palette, comprising

begins, whether you need a complexion overhaul or serious hair maintenance,

deep shades of grey, brown and burgundy for a gloriously dramatic

fill your baskets fast.

smokey eye with lashings of autumn-in-Paris allure.

Mon Guerlain Intense, GUERLAIN

252

Nuit des Rois, CHOPARD COLLECTION

IN THE NIGHT GARDEN Bulgari’s new fragrance is a first for the fashion house – and the perfumery world – for harnessing the night-blooming tuberose flower at dusk Words by Kate Wills

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“

Collecting the tuberose at night – during the blue hour – is what makes this fragrance really special.

Sophie Labbe

Along with its heartnote, Tuberose Mystique combines notes of blackcurrant, vanilla, myrrh and frankincense

L

ike so much in life, when it comes to creating a fragrance, timing is everything. For Bulgari’s latest scent, Tuberose Mystique, the master perfumer Sophie Labbé chose to use the distinctive tuberose flower.

But instead of harvesting this white bloom during the day, when the flowers are in bud, she asked for it to be picked at night time, specifically dusk. “Collecting the tuberose at night is what makes this fragrance really special,” she explains. “This flower gives off its best olfactive pick at night – the notes are completely different – but until now it’s only been harvested during the day.”

Sophie explains that the logistics of picking tuberose “during the blue hour” felt experimental and challenging.

“This was exclusive for Bulgari and we had a special team harvesting this flower at dusk near Mysore in the south of India,” she explains. “It was difficult to find people willing to work during the night, and to find the flower under the cloak of darkness. It’s an ephemeral moment when the flower must be picked – you haven’t got long. Once it’s collected it has to be extracted very quickly and sent to our laboratory in the south of France.”

We’re on the balcony of the Mandarin Oriental, on the shores of Lake Como and Sophie gives me a tuberose flower to smell – one harvested during the day, and the other at night. Although I’m no ‘nose’, they smell like completely different flowers. The daytime flower is fresh and green, but the one picked during the nighttime is intense and creamy, with hints of peach and vanilla.

Sophie, who has worked on eight fragrances for the iconic Italian jewellery brand, says that each time she works on a perfume she feels like a jeweller, chiselling and crafting a gemstone. Instead of a precious stone, she is working with nature. “Just like how we wear beautiful fragrances, I liken that same effect to accessorising with Bulgari jewellery,” she says. “When you’re wearing a beautiful necklace, or earrings, there’s something special — you feel different when you have them on and it empowers you, so there’s really a true connection between wearing precious stones and wearing perfume.”

Along with the tuberose, Sophie added blackcurrant from Burgundy to give “juiciness and mouthwatering sparkle” and vanilla from Madagascar to bring out the creaminess. To celebrate the mysticality of the tuberose, Sophie also incorporated myrrh and olibanum (also known as frankincense.) “They bring some darkness, some woodiness to the tuberose flower,” she explains. The bottle is a deep, inky blue, reflecting the twilight hours when the tuberose was picked.

Known by her peers as ‘the lacemaker of flowers’ for the way she intricately weaves together floral notes, Sophie says that being a perfumier was always her destiny. “I have always been interested in smell, but I never realised that it could be a career,” she says. “Fragrance has a power to remind you of a person, a place or a moment in your life, and there’s something unique about that. It’s very present in a way that your other senses aren’t. Even if I haven’t seen a person or smelled their fragrance for years, if I walk past someone in the street who’s wearing it, then I immediately think of them. Fragrance is like time travel in that way.”

Sophie was studying chemistry at university when she

read about the ISIPCA School of Fragrance in a magazine.

“Straight away I called them up and said ‘I would love to use my nose’,” she recalls. “I had some olfactive tests where they asked me to recognise ingredients and their strength, and I was asked to show my passion, and I knew this is exactly what I wanted to do.”

She spent her childhood between Paris and the CharenteMaritime area of France, encountering contrasting smells: the odours of a bustling city, against the scents of the countryside – grape-picking and harvesting, swept with a salty breeze. “I associate different smells with times in my life,” she says. “My earliest scent memory is my mother’s fragrance on her scarf – there’s something very reassuring about that.”

“When I was a student travelling the world, I used to take a different perfume to each different country I visited,” she says. “When I worked on the first Jasmin Noir for Bulgari in 2008 I incorporated almonds, because I had just had my first

child and I was feeling this sweetness and childishness.”

She describes working with Bulgari for over a decade as “a dream job. When it comes to preciousness and details you can’t compare anyone with this luxury house,” she says.

“Everything they do is perfection, so you have to have the finest ingredients, captured at just the right time.”

Sophie says she thinks of each perfume as a woman, and for her, the Mystique woman is a strong and powerful character, full of contradictions. “Tuberose is a captivating flower because it seems innocent and pure, but really it’s very powerful and intoxicating. In India it’s used during religious ceremonies, but it’s also called ‘the mistress of the night’. So it’s spiritual but it’s also sensual at the same time.”

“There’s an aura and generosity about this fragrance which I think makes it perfect for the Middle East,” she adds. “A woman can wear it not just at night, but any time she wants to be captivating. It’s alluring and sensual but also subtle and refined – that’s the power of Mystique.”

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MOJEH BEAUTY

BACKSTAGE

BEAUTY REP ORT

Photography: GoRunway.com. Words: Dina Kabbani

An insouciant red lip, neon flashes, and messy, tousled waves – here are the beauty trends that blew up on the autumn 2019 catwalks

MATTY BOVAN

CHROMAT

LEONARD

SIES MARJAN

MANISH ARORA

Jolts of magenta, fluorescent pigments and classroom crayon shades give art school make-up a whole new twist.

Try it layered on lids or splashed in the corners of the eye for a beautiful, painterly gaze.

ECKHAUS LATTA

PAINTBOX BRIGHTS

COLLINA STRADA

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SMOKE SIGNALS

ELIE SAAB PREEN

BLUMARINE

MARNI MAX MARA

Reach for tones of tan, taupe and shimmering toffee next time you’re in the mood for sultry and smokey. Washed across lids, this au naturel take on classic black is every bit as edgy as its noir counterpart.

50 SHADES OF BROWN Think less matte black and more iridescent brown with shimmering eyeshadows in glittery beige, deep tan and can’t-take-you-eyes-off-it copper

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1. Private Shadow in Blonde Venus, TOM FORD BEAUTY | 2. Luxury Palette Colour-Coded Eye Shadow in Pillow Talk, CHARLOTTE TILBURY at SEPHORA | 3. Voyageur Eyeshadow Palette in Copper, NARS at OUNASS | 4. Complete Eye Palette in Gold, BURBERRY BEAUTY at BLOOMINGDALE’S-DUBAI

4

260 FLUORO FLOURISHES

1

ANGEL CHEN

Strobe eyeliner, in all its electrifying glory, is back once again to remind us that beauty is meant to be fun. Just smudge a rainbow bright hue all over the eyes, or line upper lashes and call it a day. It really is that simple!

CHROMAT

2

3

ICEBERG

5

CAROLINA HERRERA

KATTY XIOMARA

4

1. Baeside Vivid Liquid Eyeliner, FENTY BEAUTY at HARVEY NICHOLS-DUBAI | 2. Highliner Glam Glitter Gel Eye Crayon in (Gem)Stoned, MARC JACOBS at NET-A-PORTER | 3. Aqua XL Ink Eye Liner in matte electric blue, MAKE UP FOR EVER | 4. 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Viper, URBAN DECAY at SEPHORA | 5. Matte & Metal Melted Double Ended Eyeshadows in Limelight & Goldchains, HUDA BEAUTY

THE GUNMETAL GAZE

LUDICROUS LASHES

ALTUZARRA DAVID KOMA

BYBLOS

JIL SANDER

COURRÈGES

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

ANDREAS KRONTHALER

Bring out the feather-spiked falsies, silver-tinted lashes and slices of gold leaf; it’s all about an amped-up showgirl flutter for AW19.

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DEWY LIPA

DIOR DRIES VAN NOTEN

BURBERRY

CHRISTOPHER KANE

ALBERTA FERRETTI

Forget gloopy glosses, luminous lips can be achieved with pretty balms and lip gels that are as lightweight as they are high-shine. Case in point? Fenty Beauty’s Pro Kiss’r Luscious Lip Balm, a super-creamy, non-greasy formula that gives kissable lips without the slick.

MARNI

MATTY BOVAN

SIMONE ROCHA

THE DARK SIDE

THE NEW LADY IN RED

NAIL THE LOOK: Can’t decide what red route to go down? Follow make-up artist Miranda Joyce’s dual take on the trend and trial a two-toned lip, à la Matty Bovan. Use a deep berry shade on the lip line, then fill in with a red hot hue, topped off with a coat of MAC’s classic Lipglass.

LOUIS VUITTON

LUCIA BECCARIA

MATTY BOVAN

CHALAYAN

PACO RABBANE

Vibrant and universally flattering, red is the most iconic of lip colours. AW19 saw shades with varying degrees of intensity offset against almost bare skin, or fierce winged liner, as seen at Louis Vuitton.

REDDY, STEADY, POUT 2 1

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1. Power Bullet Matte Lipstick in El Cinco De Mayo, HUDA BEAUTY at SEPHORA | 2. Luxe Liquid Lip High Shine in Red the News, BOBBI BROWN at NET-A-PORTER | 3. Lipstick in Mise à Mort, SERGE LUTENS at NAMSHI | 4. Lip Expert Shine in My Red, BY TERRY at BLOOMINGDALE’S-DUBAI | 5. Hot Lips 2 Lipstick in Patsy Red, CHARLOTTE TILBURY at CULT BEAUTY | 6. Lip Lacquer Luxe Vinyl in Intimidate, TOM FORD BEAUTY | 7. Rouge à Lèvres Satin in Odalie Red, GUCCI BEAUTY at NET-A-PORTER

264 BAREFACED BEAUTY How to master the no make-up, make-up look that ruled the autumn catwalks? Stay light on base formulation, and add concealer or BB/CC cream for extra coverage and hydration.

The ideal non-foundation looking foundation for barely-there shadows and nude-toned lips.

PREEN

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1. Overachiever Concealer in Nougat, HUDA BEAUTY at SEPHORA | 2. Sheer Glow Foundation in Salzburg, NARS at OUNASS | 3. Vanish Seamless Finish Liquid Foundation in Nude, HOURGLASS at CULT BEAUTY | 4. Skin Foundation Stick in Cool Sand, BOBBI BROWN at NAMSHI | 5. Accomplice Concealer & Touch-Up Stick in Light 26, MARC JACOBS BEAUTY at NET-A-PORTER | 6. Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup in Bone, ESTÉE LAUDER at SEPHORA

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RICHARD QUINN GABRIELA HEARST

PRADA

CHRISTOPHER KANE

2

TAN FANS

A TOUCH OF BLUSH

PRABAL GURUNG AREA

ROSIE ASSOULIN

MAX MARA

CHANEL

KATE SPADE

ANTONIO MARRAS

AIGNER

Offering a quick and easy complexion boost, blusher applied to the apple of the cheek is a softer way to sculpt and define the face.

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ACCESSORISE ALL AREAS

VERSACE

FASHION EAST

AREA

SIMONE ROCHA

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

ASHISH

Silver and crystal barrettes at Ashish, full-on rhinestone head coverings at Area and industrial metal chains along low-hanging ponytails at Christian Siriano – glittering extras for the head, hair and face make for conversation-starter adornments that amp up every level of new season beauty look.

FANTASTICAL FRINGES

FASHION EAST PREEN

BURBERRY

FENDI J.W.ANDERSON

Fed up with flyaways? Follow hairstylist Guido Palau who, at Burberry, created decadent swirls from model’s fringes and baby hairs, gelled them to the forehead and created one of the most memorable styles of the season.

ROBERTA EINER

PRADA

PACO RABANNE

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

THE BRAIDY BUNCH

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WET & WILD

NAIL THE LOOK: At Mary Katrantzou, stylist Anthony Turner concieved a sideswept, easy air-dried look lightly gelled using L’Oréal Wild Stylers Beach Waves, before spritzing L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium and clipping it on the side with a single bobby pin.

J.W.ANDERSON

ROBERTO CAVALLI

MARY KATRANTZOU

FENDI

RICHARD QUINN

Sleek and sculpted is the favoured way of styling hair this season, making gel – and lots of it – the breakaway product of A/W19.

CITY SLICKERS 3

5

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1. Pre-Styling Cream, BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE at NAMSHI | 2. Sumotech, BUMBLE AND BUMBLE at ASOS | 3. Volumising Spray, SISLEY – PARIS at OUNASS | 4. Matte Pomade, OUAI HAIRCARE at CULT BEAUTY | 5. Favoloso Natural Defining Mousse, ROSSANO FERRETTI at SEPHORA | 6. Featherbalm Weightless Styler, ORIBE at NET-A-PORTER

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

LOUIS VUITTON

KOCHÉ

MICHAEL KORS

MICHAEL HALPERN

ALBERTA FERRETTI

BUZZ CUT

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

SIES MARJAN

CRIMP YOUR STYLE Think ’70s disco queen hair with Diana Ross meets Jerry Hall-esque waves, first curling with a flat iron, then madly teasing with a bristle brush for the ultimate in Studio 54-inspired fluffy volume.

PHLILLIP PLEIN

BRIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Nails get experimental and artsy this season, jumping into the deep end of the neon pool and surfacing in eye-popping highlighter tones of scorching yellow, extra-hot pink, lime green and flaming orange. A future talon trend that’s so bright, you’ll have to wear shades.

NEITH NYER

CHRISTIAN COWAN

CHROMAT

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1. Le Vernis Neon Nail Colour in Rouge Red 546, CHANEL BEAUTY | 2. Nail Lacquer in Exotic Birds Do Not Tweet, OPI | 3. Loubiflash in Neoprene Pink, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN BEAUTY | 4. Nail Polish in Faunt-Leroy, Smith & Cult at NET-A-PORTER | 5. Nail Laquer in African Violet, TOM FORD BEAUTY

JOIN THE GLITTERATI

MOSCHINO

TIBI

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

MICHAEL HALPERN

RODARTE

BORA AKSU

From gold chrome flecks to artfully-spaced macro glitter, anything that shines, sparkles or glows hits the nail (literally) on the head this season. Go for medium-length almond shaped nails for the most appropriate way to show off sparkly lacquered manicures with major party punch.

RODARTE

FASHION EAST

ANTONIO MARRAS

PEARLY QUEENS

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MOJEH HEALTH

SCRATCH THE SURFACE With World Atopic Eczema day taking place on September 14, MOJEH reveals the groundbreaking new treatment changing the lives of sufferers across the UAE

Words by Lucy Wildman

Photography: Anthony Arquier/MOJEH

W

e all know someone who suffers from eczema. condition, and yet there are still many misconceptions Or who had it as a child, but happily ‘grew out surrounding its symptoms and management,” says of it’. An umbrella term for a group of auto- Dr. Anwar Al Hammadi, consultant dermatologist and immune diseases that affect the body’s largest organ, it’s president of Emirates Dermatology Society. “People with the most common skin condition in the world, affecting moderate-to-severe atopic dermatitis can experience around 10-20 per cent of adults globally, and 20 per unbearable symptoms. Most endure uncontrollable itch cent of children, the incidence of which has increased and bleeding lesions, which can be severely debilitating. threefold in industrialised countries in recent decades. In addition, they face the ongoing trauma of frequently Defined as an incurable, chronic immune-mediated systemic disrupted sleep, increased anxiety and depression because of their disease. So to disease with a debilitating effect, say this condition negatively atopic eczema, otherwise known impacts upon their quality of as atopic dermatitis, is the most “People with moderatelife is an understatement,” he common form of eczema, with to-severe atopic explains. “Many patients with around 15 per cent of all UAE dermatitis can experience patients visiting dermatologists severe atopic dermatitis struggle at public hospitals and clinics to effectively control their unbearable symptoms. suffering from the condition. disease with the conventional So to say this condition treatment options available.”

Caused, in part, by an underlying negatively impacts upon inflammation in the body that is With no breakthroughs on believed to be driven by an overadvanced ways to treat eczema in their quality of life is an active immune system, moderatethe last 18 years, the reveal of a understatement” to-severe atopic dermatitis is development in biologic medicine Dr. Anwar Al Hammadi characterised by rashes often offers significant new hope for those whose eczema condition covering much of the body, and is seemingly beyond control. can include intense, persistent itching and skin dryness, cracking, redness, crusting Jointly developed by biopharmaceutical companies Sanofi and oozing of lesions which can become infected, causing and Regeneron under a global collaboration, Dupilumab long-lasting and extreme pain. Whilst treatable for the is a first-in-class biologic medicine approved by the majority of sufferers with ointments, steroid-based European Commission (EC) to treat adults with moderatecreams, immunosuppressant pills and moisturisers, to-severe atopic dermatitis who are suitable candidates living with persistent itching and reoccurring rashes is for systemic therapy. With an EC approval of the medicine a life-long struggle for many eczema patients, creating based upon data from the global LIBERTY AD clinical myriad health problems that are not only skin-deep. trial program which included around 2,800 adults living “Atopic dermatitis remains the most common skin with severe atopic dermatitis, the therapy demonstrated

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Atopic dermatitis remains the most common skin condition, yet there are still many misconceptions surrounding its symptoms and management.

Dr. Anwar Al Hammadi

a significant reduction in the signs and symptoms of the disease and an improvement in quality of life.

Amongst the first countries to introduce this innovative therapy, the UAE joins North America, Germany, Japan and the Netherlands in the use of Dupilumab. Similar to an insulin shot, the injection is taken under the skin by patients whose eczema does not respond to traditional therapy methods, and administered every two weeks for as long as recommended by the dermatologist. “In the past, there weren’t many options to help adult patients who were suffering severely with atopic dermatitis. It was just something that had to be managed to the best of their abilities with the treatments options on offer,” explains Dr. Al Hammadi. “But while conventional treatments are effective and very important in the battle against this type of eczema, what is incredibly difficult for patients with the chronic form of the disease is compliance. If you have 40 per cent of the surface area of your body affected, you can imagine just how many tubes of cream you need to treat the skin, and how patient and dedicated you have to be to keep on top of the required applications.

So to now have a safe and highly-effective alternative that we are able to offer to our patients is exceptional.”

Admittedly, the therapy is not cheap, with patients required to buy injections on a monthly basis to control their eczema. But with a number of medical insurance packages covering the cost of the medicine, and a handful of support programmes available to offer financial assistance in certain cases, the therapy is being cited as a life-long solution for chronic atopic dermatitis sufferers.

Whilst it’s early days for Dupilumab in the UAE, Dr. Al Hammadi believes that the therapy is a milestone in the ongoing battle against the condition. “I have a 34-year-old patient who awoke every morning of his life to blood on his sheets because he scratched his skin so badly in his sleep. After having the injection for a month, he says there is no more blood on the sheets. He says this injection has changed his life. And this is what we want to happen for every one of our patients who suffer as much as he did.”

For more information, follow @LivingWithEczemaNetwork on Instagram and Facebook.

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TRAVEL EDIT

IT’S A KIND OF MAGIC Searching for a hedonistic or holistic holiday, the natural luxury and free spirit of Ibiza, will leave you nothing but satisfied Words by Natascha Hawke

A 25-metre spa pool surrounded by day beds inspires total relaxation

Picturesque La Veranda restaurant offers great food in an intimate garden setting

W

hen it reaches the time of year that you’re crying out for a break, it’s unlikely that Ibiza will be the first place that springs to mind when booking a relaxing getaway. One of Europe’s top party destinations, visons of EDM-hungry, fist-pumping Gen Zs in neon crop tops and hot pants so short you can see things you shouldn’t, are commonly associated with this tiny island in The Med. Unless you’re in the know, that is, for there are many different sides to The White Isle that keeps the jet-set coming back.

Celebrities like Kate Moss, Bianca Jagger, a whole host of supermodels, and a large number of Middle Eastern royals love Ibiza for its melange of world-class restaurants, superclubs, beach clubs, and yacht clubs, topped off with perennially good weather and, of course, music. If done right, when you’ve been once, you’ll return again and again.

Atzaró Agroturismo is one such place that will quash any negative connotations of the island. Nestled in the countryside in the northeast, 20-minutes from the airport, this 300-yearold working farm was turned into a hotel 15 years ago, by the same family that have lived there for centuries. Set away from the crowds of the popular areas of Santa Eularia and Ibiza Town, the property is a bolthole for spa lovers, yogis, couples, tourists – those who love the buzz of the island, but want somewhere to retreat to if it all gets too much.

The “Natural Luxury” tagline says it all.

With only 24 rooms, some renovated fincas originally lived in by the family, the boutique size creates an intimate

Electric colours saturate the property, from the sky, to the pool, to the lush gardens

Superior rooms have private pools on the terraces

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Outside every room are private chillout areas and sunbeds

environment that feels instantly exclusive. Five room categories, ranging between Double to Suite Deluxe, with some housing private plunge pools for that extra special touch, are elegantly appointed and decked out with all mod cons.

The floors throughout are tiled with handmade terracotta slabs that add to its authentic, imperfect charm, and rooms are furnished with what could be antique wooden four-poster beds, rustic coffee tables and seating areas, upholstered in fresh white – a signature of the island.

Relaxation is Atzaró’s modus operandi – at every turn, there is a daybed begging to be enjoyed. Even in the vegetable garden, hidden among the foliage is an outdoor sauna pod, and multiple nooks in which to curl up and read a book.

Music is only played in dedicated areas, allowing for the choice between toe-tapping Balearic beats, or nature’s own soundtrack of the breeze rustling through the palm trees, and intermittent chirping of birds, and occasionally, excitable frogs who reside in ponds throughout the property.

Two swimming pools service guests, each with a distinct vibe.

Running through the centre of the spa garden, surrounded by orange groves, is a 20-metre lap pool, punctuated at the end with oversized letters spelling out the word ‘Love’ – the focus of many Instagram posts. This is the more private of the pools where, depending on your preference, the daybeds sleep, or sit, up to six people and provide a suitable chillout scenario pre- or post spa treatment.

The second pool sits at the heart of the hotel equipped with poolside bar, and slightly elevated to the spa pool, showcases 360-degree views to the hills in the distance, and front row seats to the always incredible Ibiza sunset. Circular daybeds with full, part or no sun exposure make it the first choice for sunworshipping European guests, who will come and go between siestas and sightseeing.

It is noticeable that privacy is paramount at Atzaró, and the staff have clearly been briefed to avoid unnecessarily disturbing the peace, rather making subtle eye contact to determine their guests requirements. In true Mediterranean style, nothing is done fast here, and where at first it might take some getting used to, by the end of a stay, the rhythm is just right.

Naturally, being on the island you will want to explore, and the property will work hard to ensure all your needs are catered to. Fancy a beach club? Atzaró Beach is a short 15-minute drive away in the pretty bay of Cala Nova. Book a table for lunch and a daybed to follow, and while away the day eating the freshest fish in the beach club’s shabby chic surroundings.

Getting around the island has become easier in recent years, and transfers can easily be arranged from the hotel, but if you like freedom, hiring a car in Ibiza is always a good idea. When not lying by the pool, be sure to spend some time exploring the myriad private beaches and multitude of hidden bars and restaurants that have made the island a gastronomic go-to.

Stunning sea views await at Atzaro Beach Club in Cala Nova

Original handmade terracotta tiles add to Atzaro’s rustic charm

ATZARÓ BEACH CLUB Located in the pretty cove of Cala Nova on the east coast of the island, Atzaro Beach is everything you’d expect from an Ibizan beachside restaurant. Shabby-chic decor, luxury sun loungers, excellent food and a sophisticated crowd make it the perfect place to spend the day. Atzaro.com

All rooms house four-poster beds

Food, as in Spanish and Catalan culture, is at the heart of Atzaró. When not dining at La Veranda, the hotel’s main restaurant which serves excellent locallyinspired dishes prepared straight from Atzaró’s own farm, then at least one excursion to Aubergine Ibiza, its sister restaurant, is a must. Just a short drive or taxi journey from the hotel, nestled in the picturesque Ibizan countryside, Aubergine continues Atzaró’s farmto-table gastronomy in a romantic setting of olive groves and fairy lights, serving up Mediterranean delicacies accompanied by vegetables fresh from the ground, usually served in the presence of a live acoustic band.

Such is the restaurant’s growing popularity, during the summer, queues have been known to form, so booking in advance is advisable.

If you’re a music enthusiast, or even if you’re not, when you visit Ibiza it’s almost a right of passage to experience a night out in one of the superclubs. Pacha, Ushuaïa, Hï, or a daytime party at Destinos – all the major clubs offer VIP access with private table packages offering space away from the crowds of the main dancefloor, so there is little excuse not to get involved at least once, even just as a voyeur. Superstar DJ lineups and a euphoric crowd will show you firsthand what the island is really about: love, music, people, before you retreat back to the little slice of paradise you found in the countryside. Atzaro.com

The farm-to-table dining concept at Aubergine Ibiza means fresh, healthy food bursts with flavour

AUBERGINE IBIZA Dining out in Ibiza usually means a sea view, but Aubergine has nestled itself into the countryside to become one of the island’s favourite foodie hotspots. A farm-to-table concept that is also vegan-friendly, the food is authentic and delicious. An absolute must. Aubergineibiza.com

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MOJEH TRAVEL

THE DESTINATION The latest openings from Hollywood to Saudi Arabia, plus a chic London residence to inspire you this September

AMAN, SAUDI ARABIA As opportunities in Saudi Arabia continue to open up, Aman has announced its first foray into the Middle East with the launch of three luxury resorts, due to debut in 2023. True to Aman’s dedication of preserving and highlighting local culture, the resorts will be situated in the heritage area of AlUla in the north west of Saudi Arabia.

One property will be a tented camp to immerse its guests in the natural desert landscape, another will take on a ranch-style design, and the third will be situated close to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Hegra, a 52-hectare ancient city comprising 100 wellpreserved tombs that date back to 2nd Century BCE. Aman.com

FOUR SEASONS PRIVATE RESIDENCES Trust the Four Seasons to unveil some of the most desirable new residential properties in London we've seen to date.

Twenty Grosvenor Square is the achingly stylish result of the hotel group's partnership with London developers and design firm Finchatton. Located in the heart of Mayfair, the 37 elegant apartments mark the very first standalone Private Residences from Four Seasons, consisting of three, four and five bedrooms that epitomise luxury London living, and are now available for purchase.

Comprising a traditional drawing room, high ceilings, walk-in wardrobes and finishings such as Tai Ping silk rugs and Loro Piana cashmere wall panels, residents will also have access to a private concierge, spa, 25-metre pool, cinema and gardens. 20gs.com

Above: Qasr el Farid at Hegra in Saudi Arabia. Below: A dressing room at Twenty Grosvenor Square

COOL NEW POOLS Uninterrupted views over Cali from 1 WeHo

1 HOTEL WEST HOLLYWOOD With a USP as one of LA's most energy-efficient hotels, '1 WeHo' The contemporary facade of the Alex hotel on Lake Zürich

houses a 100 per cent organic vegetable garden, furniture made from fallen trees, and a stunning rooftop plunge pool. 1hotels.com

SWISS HOSPITALITY Looking for a business-leisure property with a difference when visiting the Swiss

The pretty garden pool at Anantara's latest resort

city of Zürich? The new Alex boutique hotel on the edge of the picturesque lake is it. Across five floors, 44 studios and penthouses are designed in architectural stone and glass, creating a chic living environment. Highlights include The Boathouse restaurant with terrace, Lobby Lounge with roaring fireplace for colder months, and a spa with sauna, fitness centre, and direct access to the lake should you be brave enough to go wild swimming. Campbellgrayhotels.com

ANANTARA VILLA PADIERNA PALACE Situated on Spain’s Southern coast in the hills above Marbella, the latest property from Anantara is a golf, spa and gastronomic destination, topped off with stunning garden pool. Anantara.com Two-bedroom Reef villa with private pool

180-degree views across Munich at the Mandarin Oriental

Words: Natascha Hawke

GIRLS GO GASTRO IN GERMANY Oktoberfest is Germany's favourite festival, and with the Ladies Oktoberfest

WALDORF ASTORIA MALDIVES ITHAAFUSHI

package from Mandarin Oriental, Munich, female guests have the opportunity

A short 30-minute yacht journey from Malé International

to experience the invite-only Regine Damenwiesn lunch, a highlight of the

Airport, the new Waldorf Astoria is home to 122 villas, and

Bavarian social calendar, a limousine transfer to Oktoberfest, and six-course

a private, fully-staffed island for those who require complete

dinner at Matsuhisa. September 22-24, Mandarinoriental.com

discretion. Waldorfastoriamaldives.com

282 SUBSCRIBE

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STYLE: The fashion break down. Learn what to wear, how to wear it and when it’s too much. We take the trends and make them work for you through sharp edits and clever style investments.

ATTITUDE: The latest grooming products, fitness trends and expert advice from the region’s most sophisticated men. It’s our job to keep you looking your best.

LIFESTYLE

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LIFESTYLE: Whether you’re making the most of the Middle East, or jetting off to explore the rest of the world, check out MOJEH Men’s edit of the finest hotels, bars and restaurants worth checking in to.

LUXURY: We tell you which watch to buy now, what car to drive, and where to place your hard-earned cash on the smartest property and fine art investments.

PEOPLE: Style icons, entrepreneurs and influential CEOs share secrets of their successes with MOJEH Men, through thought-provoking, exclusive interviews and photoshoots.

MOJEHMEN.COM THE DEFINITIVE MEN’S STYLE GUIDE

CULTURE EDIT

From left: Fridalism; Lizzie Petra, both Suzi Fadel Nassif. Below: The artist

THE ARTIST: SUZI FADEL NASSIF The Dubai-based Lebanese artist describes her work as being neither surrealism nor realism, but ‘Suzism’,” referring to her colourful, acrylic portraits of famous faces layered with symbolism and underlying narratives. Her work is on display at Coya, Abu Dhabi from October 1, and Coya Dubai in November. Suzinassif.com When did you start painting? The awakening of my artistic journey erupted in 2006 during the 33 days of the “Lebanon war”. Art was my only exile, but also the birth of a journey. Art took me to a different dimension.

I had the ultimate freedom to express myself through colours, textures, faces and figures. After all, it is my own exclusive planet!

What inspires you? I am inspired by the “su-reality shows” that we experience in our everyday lives when we read articles, or watch the news or movies, or converse with others or even with ourselves. And recently, many celebrities and icons played a major role in my art, like Andy Warhol, I portrayed them from my own point of view, my personal vision.

How would you describe your art? I collect gazes, expressions, facts, and imaginations expressing them boldly in my art with twists in order to awaken emotions in the viewer and tell different tales in each painting. I imagine a world of paradoxes. I like to think of myself as a fiction storyteller; my art is neither surrealism nor realism, but “Suzism”.

How would you like to be remembered? Like Da Vinci and the Mona Lisa, Picasso and Guernica, Dali and Persistence of Memory, Warhol and Marilyn Monroe. I’d like to be remembered the same: Suzi and that ‘universal artwork’ that reached a common theme, a common thread, and a common emotion for a better world!

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GO GREEK AT AVLI On arriving at Avli by tashas, the welcoming, contemporary interiors are the first thing to stop you in your tracks. Unlike any other location in Dubai, the pretty, Pinterest-worthy design, with its welcoming neutral tones and olive tree accents, is a palate cleanser amongst DIFC’s stark facades. Inside, the bright, airy space centres around a large window framing the Burj Khalifa in the distance, but that is where Dubai ends and a culinary journey through Greece begins. Classic dishes like Greek salad and halloumi sit alongside octopus terrine (a must-try), feta saganaki and lamb keftedes served up mezze style to start, followed by mouthwatering main dishes of aubergine mill-feuille, buttery sea bass and jumbo prawns in garlic, accompanied by samphire and wild rice. For dessert, it can only be Amira’s sticky orange cake swimming in cream. Sinfully good. Avlibytashas.com

THREE CHIC EATS

FOR CAVIAR CONNOISSEURS

FOR PARTY PEOPLE

FOR JAPANOPHILES

Caviar is having a bit of a comeback, and Beluga

Bagatelle has been a hot favourite on the

With a unique focus on the traditional Japanese

at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, the only caviar

city’s party scene since its inception. With

cooking technique of Warayaki, Netsu brings a

dedicated restaurant in Dubai, is a great place

the launch of a new menu demonstrating its

new perspective to the traditional steakhouse.

to get reacquainted with this delicacy. From the

exceptional French flair, there’s more reason

The straw fire cooking method adds smokiness

stylish Afternoon Caviar Tea, to an à la carte

to visit this super-fun dinner destination for a

and seals in flavour for a dining experience to

dinner for two, let Beluga’s top chefs take you

night of dancing on the tables, great food and

remember. Not hungry? Spend the night sampling

on a special culinary journey. +971 4 340 8882

memories you’ll never forget. +971 4 354 5035

exceptional cocktails in the bar. +971 4 777 2232

HOUSE PARTY! Plan the event of your dreams in Villa Layali at Melia Desert Palm Dubai.

Offering special rates on the resort’s presidential villa until September 30, invite guests to party in the private pool complete with Bose sound system to blast your favourite tunes, and a double bedroom in which to crash when the fun finally wears you out. Dhs6,000 on day-use basis; Melia.com

A peek inside the Villa Layali party pad

Minimalist, bronze accents at BoConcept

NEW SEASON MAKEOVER Looking to refresh your interiors but don’t know where to start?

Bronze accents or pops of colour? Seek advice from a professional eye at BoConcept stores in Dubai. Register online for a free consultation at Boconcept.com, and embark on a home makeover to suit any budget or style orientation.

SAVE THE DATE: FIVE JUMEIRAH VILLAGE It’s hard to believe, but yet another hotel is opening in Dubai, this time in Jumeirah Village Circle. Following the highly successful debut of Five Palm Jumeirah, the JVC venue will have 247 rooms and suites, 254 two and four bedroom hotel apartments and a staggering 269 pools, as well as stylish new eateries, and state-of-the-art gym. Opening September 2; Fivehotelsandresorts.com

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MOJEH CULTURE

X MARKS THE MASTER COLLABORATOR In celebration of Louis Vuitton’s latest exhibition, Louis Vuitton X, MOJEH journeys through the fashion house’s array of artistic pursuits Words by Kelly Baldwin

F

or a fashion house, Louis Vuitton’s commitment to the arts is a rather fanatical affair. Throughout its 160-year history, the maison has collaborated with countless artists, designers and architects, even founding a dedicated space in Paris in which to share this passion with the public. The Fondation Louis Vuitton on Avenue du Mahatma Gandhi in Paris is proof of the brand’s dedication to art and design. Created by architect Frank Gehry, the space is home to the private Collection of Louis Vuitton, which includes works by such artistic greats as Wolfgang Tillmans, Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat, to name a few, and regularly showcases special exhibitions on loan.

But right now, in Los Angeles, the maison is taking its artistic endeavours to visual extremes as a multi-hued magenta castle stands tall at the corner of Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills – named Louis Vuitton X. For even the most nonchalant of Calis, it’s impossible to miss. The exhibition combines over 180 items from the house’s archives pulling together the impressive 160year history of creative collaborations. Highlights include iconic monogram bags, silk scarves and 20th-century trunks, reworked by renowned artists including eL Seed, Dame Zaha Hadid, Karl Lagerfeld and Tschabalala Self.

The eclectic and disruptive nature of the pieces on display are clear from the get-go. As you enter the space, two of contemporary art’s most acclaimed portraitists, Yan Pei-Ming and Alex Katz, have captured the spirit of Louis Vuitton as a young man. Created specifically for the exhibition, the former is intimate, layered – Pei-Ming uses a wet-into-wet oil paint technique – which takes its inspiration from a portrait of Louis Vuitton by Reutlinger painted around 1892; the latter blends Katz’s signature pop art with a distant Matissian heritage. They hang on a wall that merges softly

Photography: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Unique pieces from artists including eL Seed, Sol Lewitt and Kenny Scharf feature across Stephen Sprouse graffitied walls in Louis Vuitton X’s Art on Silk space

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The exhibition design was inspired by the vivid colours of a California sunset

from sunburst orange to cerise and shocking pink (the palette of a Californian sunset). A clever way to welcome visiors to the exhibition, it introduces the linking concept of Louis Vuitton X: that no-one and nothing – not even the house’s founding father – is safe from an artistic re-working.

This diverse character flows throughout the exhibition, but is particularly powerful in Art On Silk – arguably the most explosive of scenes in Louis Vuitton X. Floor-to-ceiling black and white ‘Louis Vuitton Paris’ graffiti engulfs the room, while a medley of scarves stand side-by-side, emblazing the walls. Each was created by a different artist spanning nearly four decades.

1988’s Orchid Gardens by pop artist James Rosenquist stands out through its mash-up of painterly florals in quixotic tones, juxtaposed with ridged and linear graphic shades; Parisian visual artist André Saraiva’s 2014 design presents lax paint splatters in a romantic palette; while the curved yellow, blue and red lines of the late Sol Lewitt’s 1988 creation is softer still.

This ongoing collaboration, entitled the Textile Series, started in the late 1980s when Louis Vuitton invited exceptional artists, designers and architects, including Andrée Putman and Arata Isozaki, to transform their silk scarf – or carré de soie – with their own iconic oeuvres. The project was later revived in 2013 when a handful of street artists from around the world brought their revolutionary and rebellious spirit to the otherwise sumptuous silks. Along with America’s Kenny Scharf and Brazil’s Os Gemeos, French-Tunisian artist eL Seed brought his form, widely celebrated as ‘calligraffiti’, to the project, now on display at Louis Vuitton X.

Artist Yan Pei-Ming’s portrait of a young Louis Vuitton

eL Seed’s ‘caligraffitti’ style, reworked on a Louis Vuitton silk scarf

“

I’m proud to put an Arabic script on this scarf. Louis Vuitton welcomed the concept, and gave me carte blanche.

Graffiti brings art to everyone. I like the fact of democratizing art eL Seed Tschabalala Self deconstructed and reconstructed the Louis Vuitton logo in her Artycapucines bag

“I’m proud to put an Arabic script on this scarf and happy that Louis Vuitton welcomed the concept and gave me carte blanche,” eL Seed told MOJEH at the project’s Dubai unveiling in 2013. “When I was approached by Louis Vuitton, I found the proposal really interesting – it’s an exceptional brand wanting to bring the spirit of the streets into the luxury market.

I like graffiti because it brings art to everyone. I like the idea of democratising art.” eL Seed’s desire to cross the existing cultural boundaries between street culture and high fashion played out on his version of the iconic Louis Vuittton Alzer luggage, a piece that has been reincarnated in different artistic guises on numerous occasions throughout the house’s history .

It began in the 1920s, when Louis Vuitton’s grandson GastonLouis embarked on creating special order trunks including a picnic trunk for an Egyptian Prince and a racquet case for a champion tennis player. This commitment to culture and travel unravelled over the years, and also featured special pieces designed for famous musicians to carry precious instruments – with that same commitment to popular culture today expressed through Louis Vuitton’s custom-made red carpet gowns created for Hollywood’s heavyweights.

In one particularly complex endeavour from 2014, photographer Cindy Sherman took stimulus from the patchwork of hotel stickers affixed to vintage cases and designed an entire Studio In A Trunk. 2009 saw a high-profile luggage collaboration when Damien Hirst created the 95 Secretaire Special Case, inspired by David Cronenburg’s Dead Ringers. The morbidly beautiful piece features Hirst’s signature skull and butterfly motifs, laden across blue velvet and black leather. Around that same period, photographer Annie Leibovitz created the Nomadic Photographer’s Bag and from musician and composer Gustavo Santaolalla came the Ronrocco Case.

Examples of what happens when these wildly imaginative artistic talents meet the house’s unparalleled commitment to craft continued throughout the years. In 1996, for the centenary of the iconic Monogram Canvas material, originally designed by

MOJEH meets American Artist And Artycapucines Collaborator, Tschabalala Self What do you consider to be the principal theme throughout your work? Expression and the desire to create and actualise an independent figure. I work a lot with women, most of which become figurative representations of real-life situations. Tell us about some of these characters. All of them are representations of a black woman moving through various activities. Some are mundane and others are more dynamic in regards to their movements and intentions, but they’re all female figures navigating their way through their environment or some kind of space. I try to sum up a spectrum of energy and intention through one singularly visual identity. You grew up in New York, Harlem specifically. How does this feed into your work? In Harlem I met so many different people who were all navigating their way through the same community and space – this instilled a sense of sensibility and multiplicity in my mind. Harlem is really vibrant and has a lot of high energy. I internalised a lot of that energy, and always wanted to somehow capture and then communicate it through my work. How does your form present itself through your Louis Vuitton Capucines? A lot of my process comes down to the deconstruction and reconstruction of oneself and how identity unravels within that. I often use textiles to break down the body. For Louis Vuitton, I thought about what was iconic for the brand – the logo – and how that could be broken down. I ended up breaking it into four discrete parts and then used various textiles to play with it. The colours are very explosive, what influenced this decision? Louis Vuitton provided the textiles for the piece and those colours were already imbedded in the materials that I was most excited about. Once I had figured out how the different elements and layers of the logo would form, I landed on this turquoise, cyan colour. It popped but I also felt it was relatively neutral and could work with a lot of things. I was aware that as much as it’s a piece of art, it’s also a fashion item and so it needs to be versatile for the wearer. How did you feel when Louis Vuitton asked you to translate your art into fashion? I was definitely intimidated by the task, but I knew it would be a very challenging but absolutely unmissable opportunity. I’m so impressed by the entire Artycapucines project, and I’m so very happy to be included in such an exceptional group.

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A lot of my process comes down to the deconstruction and reconstruction of oneself, and how the identity unravels within that. I thought about what was iconic for the brand – the logo – and how that could be broken down.

Tschabalala Self

Georges Vuitton in 1896 in memory of his late father, the house summoned designers, artists and creative minds to reinvent and transform its classic bags, silhouettes and motifs. Louis Vuitton X’s third exhibition room, Reinterpreting Icons, highlights a handful of the more energetic of these collaborations. In one corner, an oversized brown and tan monogrammed punching bag

by German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who passed away in February this year, stands proud. While the Bag-As-Sculpture by late British-Iraqi architect Dame Zaha Hadid perches atop a giant silver monogram installation. Zaha’s reinterpretation of the classic Bucket bag draws upon paradoxical tones of white and lollypop pink, and extrusions and distortions of the iconic shape to form a new hybrid version. These masterpieces showcase the talent of each of these designers and the level of craft they hold themselves to.

The re-shaping and re-styling of the Monogram logo continues today – from Nicolas Ghesquiere’s expansive use across even his ready-to-wear designs to the introduction of the personalised Mon Monogram – but its most recent reinvention comes from 29-year-old American artist Tschabalala Self. “A lot of my process comes down to the deconstruction and reconstruction of oneself, and how the identity unravels within that. I often use textiles to break down the body,” Self told MOJEH during the Los Angeles reveal. Her work usually focuses on the iconographic significance of the black female body in modern US culture, and includes multi-layered use of painting and printmaking, using stitched, printed and painted materials that draw upon different artistic traditions. “For Louis Vuitton, I thought about what was iconic for the brand – the logo – and how that could be broken down. I ended up breaking it into four discrete parts and then used various textiles to play with it.” The deconstructed monogram shatters across a Capucines – the iconic bag named after the street where Louis Vuitton opened his first store. Along with the five other Artycapucines collaborators, including Sam Falls, Urs Fischer and Nicholas Hlobo, Self ’s Capucines bag was unveiled for the first time at Louis Vuitton X. Each of the bags have been released in a limited edition of 300, and provide further proof of Vuitton’s innate ability to meld the diverse creativity of young talent with

Nicholas Ghesquiere and Grace Coddington collaborated on an animal-themed collection for Louis Vuitton in 2013

The Magic Malle multi-screen installation guides viewers through the house’s history in Louis Vuitton X’s penultimate room

The Keepall bag in collaboration with Jake and Dinos Chapman (top) and Jeff Koons

HISTORY REPEATING The Monogram Becomes The Artist’s Playground Since the 1980s, classic house motifs of the 1888 Damier and the 1896 Monogram have been reimagined and transformed onto the Keepall bag by leading contemporary artists including Damien Hirst, Jake and Dinos Chapman and Jeff Koons.

Think new visions of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

and

Ruben’s

Tiger

Hunt

alongside

vivid

graffiti prints and whimsical Manga characters.

For his spring/summer 2019 Louis Vuitton collection, Virgil Abloh became the latest artist to place his stamp on the legendary Monogram and Keepall, with a half translucent and half acid wash Prism design.

Virgil Abloh’s Keepall bag in monogram prism for menswear SS19

its own artisanal savoir-faire. “I love that Louis Vuitton strives to be innovative and inclusive, and within my practice, I also strive for a high level of innovation and think expansively about how paintings should function socially. Louis Vuitton is always building narratives that relate to other creative industries and move beyond just fashion. They’re conscious about their impact within a larger society,” says Self.

But, fashion, of course, comes first at Louis Vuitton. And ever since the house’s ready-to-wear collection hit the runway in 1998, collaborations with the world’s most fearless artists have been as brazen as they are forward-thinking. Within Art Meets Fashion at Louis Vuitton X, Marc Jacobs’ 2013 collection with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, takes centre stage. Buren’s Les Deux Plateux installation inspired the stark, chequerboard effect which was prolific throughout Marc Jacobs’ Spring/Summer ’13 line, with pieces ranging in tone from lemon yellow to grass green, and chestnut brown to inky black. Other featured creatives include Stephen Sprouse, Richard Prince and Yayoi Kusama, who have worked with the house’s designers – Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh – in countless ways.

Most recently, the legendary stylist and creative-director, Grace Coddington, engulfed Nicolas Ghesquière’s pieces

in comical illustrations of very animated cats and dogs.

Highlighted by this exceptional exhibition, Louis Vuitton has taken the ‘Is Fashion Art?’ argument and quite literally quashed it in to obscurity. It is neither one nor the other – the two simply co-exist and co-create.

Whether through a wearable fashion piece, such as a dress, silk scarf or Monogram bag, or an artwork from one of the house’s numerous commissions, Louis Vuitton’s artistic pursuits reach out to different audiences and bring institutions, creatives and brands together in a spectacle that sees no geographical or social limitations. The revisiting of history through art at Louis Vuitton X is a fearless and eclectic showcase which undoubtably inspires new dialogues for new generations, solidified by the long list of Gen Z, A-list guests in attendance at its opening night, which included Jaden Smith, Millie Bobby Brown and Hailee Steinfeld.

The question is, where to next for Louis Vuitton X? The house’s Series 1, Series 2 and Series 3 exhibitions – conceptualized

by Nicolas Ghesquière and spanning 2014 through to 2015 – travelled from Rome to London, and Los Angeles to Singapore.

With a similar multi-stop tour planned for X, it’s one that no self-respecting fashion fan should miss. Louis Vuitton X runs until September 15, 2019 in Los Angeles; Louisvuitton.com

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MOJEH CULTURE

LIFE & STYLE MOJEH exclusively explores the serene seaside holiday home of Italian fashion designer, Elisabetta Franchi Words by Lucy Wildman

Wearing her own AW19 collection, Elisabetta and pet Chihuahua, Cherie, relax in the designers favourite room of the house.

“

When I was a little girl, I promised myself that one day, if I made enough money, I’d buy a house in Milano Marittima. And, well, here we are!

Elisabetta Franchi

Photography: Mattia Bettinelli

L

iving your dream is something Elisabetta Franchi seems to have a knack for. Heading up her eponymous label for more than 20 years, the 50-year-old designer says it was dreaming big that helped her get where she is in the fashion industry today.

And while the self-effacing Italian “doesn’t believe the word success belongs to her,” as we sit in the garden of her Milano Marittima holiday home, focusing upon one particular childhood wish culminated in the realisation of one of many long-held dreams. “When I was a little girl, I always came here to go to the beach” says Elisabetta, who was born and raised in Bologna, just over an hour’s drive from her seaside hideaway. “I promised myself that one day, if I had made enough money, I would buy a house in Milano Marittima. And, well, here we are – I did it.”

Located just a few moments walk from the beach of the pretty north Italian coastal town, Elisabetta’s dream house is an exquisite all-white structure, boasting polished concrete floors, vast windows and glass walls that flood the space with an abundance of natural light. “I was looking for a place that was pretty close to home where I could relax and enjoy nature and the sea,” explains Elisabetta.

“For me, this house represents luxury, a sense of harmony and overall balance that is achieved when the furniture and accessories interact with each other in a perfect unison of clean lines and shapes.”

Designed by architect Alfredo Mattesini, and inspired by the deck of a yacht, while the aesthetic is cool, sleek and minimalist, the feel is warm and inviting – with the multiple dining areas a clear indication that this is a holiday home designed for sharing good food and great times with as many of her nearest and dearest as possible.

“My favourite piece of furniture in the house is the huge table in the outdoor dining room,” smiles Elisabetta, who personally designed the interiors of the house herself.

“It’s eight metres long, and it’s perfect for hosting big dinners and lunches with lots of people – the classic Italian way to eat. It also has little trunks for sitting on instead of chairs. I just love it.”

Decorated in neutral shades of white, ivory and beige, with elements of natural wood, stone and stainless steel and an

Cherished photographs of family and friends are displayed as a central focus of the main living area, with the stunning gardens making a beautiful backdrop.

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“

As a fashion designer, I have a defined taste and style. All of my home environments speak about me as if they are dresses tailored on myself.

Elisabetta Franchi

Light woods and stainless steel contribute to the sleek and sophisticated minimalism of the property, while statement accessories add flashes of vigour.

emphasis on bringing the outdoors in, the house is all about combining the calming powers of nature with contemporary technology and cutting edge design. “I am passionate about art, and love to collect pieces that really speak to me. But in this house, it’s less about magnificent artworks, and more about the incredible structure of the building,” explains Elisabetta. “The realisation of the outdoor dining area that’s not actually supported by any physical pillars is a work of art in itself. The exceptional engineering behind it makes it appear to be suspended in mid-air. That’s a wholly different kind of art that needs to be properly appreciated.”

While there may not be any huge artworks on display, there are many cherished items dotted around the house that give the place warmth and personality. Family photos are everywhere, a reminder of numerous happy moments and experiences shared with the most important people in Elisabetta’s life, alongside an elegant edit of stylish accessories. “I have chosen particular objects that have lots of meaning attached to them. I don’t like to have too many ornaments, because I don’t like the space to feel overwhelmed with items,” says the designer of her carefully curated collection of decorative pieces. “That’s not to say that if I see something on one of my trips that really catches my attention, I won’t buy it. It’s just that I think the house is already complete, and that its design says enough.”

When she does indulge in a little retail therapy, if she’s not travelling internationally, Elisabetta likes to go for a leisurely browse at Rubirosa, a treasure trove of vintage furniture, contemporary art, fabrics, rugs and wallpapers.

With one showroom in Milan and one right on her doorstep in Milano Marittima, the Italian interiors emporium is a favourite place to while away the hours and admire the array of beautiful home furnishings, whether she’s in the city working, or relaxing at the weekend at her seaside bolthole. “As a fashion designer, I have a defined taste and style,” explains Elisabetta of how her career has inspired the look of her three homes, which includes a converted farmhouse in Bologna, a 1940s lodge in Cortina in the Italian Alps and her beach house in Milano Marittima. “I transfer those aesthetic elements to everything surrounding me. All my environments

Glass walls and skylights flood the living area with natural light, while huge white sofas and glass-topped tables add to the clean sophistication of the room.

speak about me as if they are dresses tailored on myself.”

Frequently shuttling between her trio of Italian homes with husband Alan and their children Leone and Ginevra, dedicated animal lover Elisabetta often brings one or two (or three) of her dogs with her to enjoy the sea air. “Some of my dogs travel with us when we come here, but I prefer to leave most of them at the house in Bologna so they can run around in the countryside,” she says of her furry family.

“I have eight dogs, all strays that I rescued from the street – Lalla, Sara, Betty, Chico, Cherie, Malé, Bianca and Stella.

All of them came from difficult conditions, and each has a story behind them. I try to give them as much love as I can, and the dream of living a decent life.” And just as Elisabetta prioritises the needs of her husband and children in each of the homes she builds or renovates, the designer also considers her pets when moving to a new property. “I create custom-made spaces for my kids in each of our homes, so they can be independent both now and in the future, but I also consider the needs of our pets,” she reveals. “They

are so important to me, and it’s because of them that I love surrounding myself with a beautiful garden, so they can live freely and happily without any restrictions. I decided to give them a better life, and they became a part of my family.

I love spending time with them. They give me peace.”

With so many important people and pets to consider, there’s only one change Elisabetta would make to the Milano Marittima property if she had the chance.

“I love this house, but if I did it again, I’d make it bigger,” she explains. “When I projected this space ten years ago, my second son Leone hadn’t been born yet. If I could build it again, I’d make sure it would be much larger to allow room to have a bigger family.”

With a consistently hectic schedule, which includes the daily runnings of her company as well as designing numerous collections, animal rights campaigner Elisabetta also oversees the company’s recently-launched Island Dog Village EF. Envisioned as a sanctuary for dogs in Northern China, and part of the company’s global commitment

296

Breakfasting with her family in the sun-soaked outdoor dining room is one of Elisabetta’s favourite ways to start the day.

Subtle coastal accents are a key decorative theme throughout the house, highlighting the seaside location both indoors and out.

towards a cruelty-free future, the sanctuary houses animals rescued from the notoriously cruel dog meat industry, in particular the annual cat and dog meat festival in Yulin.

Currently working on a book, as well as a documentary, when Elisabetta has the opportunity to escape to her seaside hideaway, her priority is rest and relaxation. “I consider this house my sanctuary,” she says. Never neglecting her fitness regime, keen runner Elisabetta takes advantage of the property’s enviable location by side-stepping the gym in favour of an outdoor workout. “I’m not a big lover of the beach, even if I like the holiday atmosphere of the seaside.

So when I’m here, I prefer to go for a run in the forest, then hit the beach at lunchtime.” After her run, Elisabetta has breakfast with her family in the outdoor lounge, her favourite room in the house, before deciding how they will spend the rest of the day. “It’s like sitting in the garden, but you’re actually still inside. I love this room in the morning, when the sun shines through the glass roof. It transmits a real sense of peace and wellbeing.” Often spending their days on the small, private beach at the nearby Palace Hotel, with a constant stream of guests joining them at the house for weekends, when she’s not creating an Italian feast for all to enjoy at her vast outdoor dining table, enjoying the local nightlife is an essential excursion. “We love going to Caminetto - it’s one of the areas’s most famous restaurants, and we go there all the time. It’s classic, but unique,” she smiles. And when dinner’s over, it’s all about rekindling cherished memories in one of most her beloved parts of the town. “When there’s dancing to be done, I take everybody to Pineta, the nightclub where I spent much of my youth. It’s a very, very special place. I simply adore it.”

Elisabetta, wearing her own label, pictured in front of her favourite piece of furniture in the house: the vast outdoor dining table.

IN MEMORY

1 “

I may design for the clouds, but my feet stay on the ground!

2 “

I have no idea why everyone wants to be me. It is a very mysterious thing.

Maybe the secret is that I’m down to earth...

50 3 “ YEARS AT FENDI

5

One of Karl’s sketches for Fendi, circa 1970

“

Fendi is my Italian version of creativity...

I give ideas, I design clothes, I am totally free.

At Fendi, everything is possible!

Words of wisdom from the late Karl Lagerfeld – the pioneering visionary at the helm of the iconic Italian fashion house for five magnificent decades

4

Left: Karl with the five Fendi sisters Above: Karl’s sketch of the five Fendi sisters: Anna, Franca, Paula, Carla and Alda

“

The keys to succeeding in fashion? Motivation, freedom and knowledge. I want to know everything.

Life isn’t a beauty contest. Intelligence lasts. Youth and beauty are seasonal.

Photography: Courtesy of Fendi, Daniele La Malfa, Benoit Peverelli

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