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Nr 15 – 111 /2015 D: 6 € | AT: 7,50 € CH: 10 €
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ACCESSORIES - EYEWEAR - LEATHER GOODS - SADDLERY
MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH | Germany | www.maybach-luxury.com info@maybach-luxury.com | www.facebook.com/maybachluxury | www.twitter.com/maybachicons „Maybach“ and the „MM“ logo are subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. They are used by MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH under licence.
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IVKO GmbH | Germany | natural-eyewear@ivko.de | www.natural-eyewear.com | www.facebook.com/naturaleyewear
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design by made by
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handcrafted danish design orgreenoptics.com
w w w. f l e y e . d k
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5 YEARS OF EYEWEAR This current issue marks the fifth anniversary of our humble EYEWEAR magazine. After producing 15 issues, we took the time for some self-reflection and contemplation. The result is a – not entirely serious – personality profile in pairs of contrasts. Enjoy. WE ARE
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INSIGHT - ARTISTS OF THE ISSUE
PASCAL ALBANDOPULOS At a time when Greece’s ongoing financial woes tend to dominate the headlines, it’s important for us as an independent magazine to point out some of the positive aspects of this great and scenic country. Case in point: Meet a prime example of Hellenic passion for detail, blended with a natural talent for striking photographs – all wrapped into one sleek package in the man known as Pascal Albandopulos. Born and raised in Greece, the Munich-based photographer has retained a fascination with his home country since his childhood, especially the beauty and aesthetics of sculptures from classic antiquity. During prolonged stays in Milan and Paris as an upcoming photographer, Pascal grew his passion for the fashion business. This issue’s photo shoot already marks his third contribution to Eyewear Magazine, and Pascal placed large emphasis on capturing the authentic traditions and natural beauty of his native Greece. Have a look on his work »Myth« and prepare to be amazed by the unique interpretation of the cradle of European culture from a man who knows it best.
www.eof7.com
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INSIGHT - ARTISTS OF THE ISSUE
SABINE LIEWALD
ESTELLE KLAWITTER
Much like the two other photographers featured here, Sabine is no stranger to submitting her works to this magazine. Raised in the town of Stuttgart, Sabine was inspired by her grandfather to pick up a camera – and never put it down ever since. What started as a creative passion soon turned into a full-fledged job and her professional career as a photographer has taken Sabine around the world: After prolonged gigs in Paris and New York, as well as assignments all across the globe, she set up shop together with her husband and two dogs in the town of Zurich. The family also likes to spend time on Ibiza, where she produced not one, but three photo shoots for this issue. In the photo shoots »Ibiza Calling« & »Renegade« and in the collection shoot for Salt. the photographer flexes her creative talent for rendering the female body in a unique light, accompanied by her signature blend of fashion, lingerie, and beauty in a tropical mood. Did we mention that we’re slightly jealous of her lifestyle?
Estelle has been submitting her work to E ye we ar since day one. Based in the town of Dusseldorf, the photographer and film director specializes in beauty, fashion, and portrait photography with a trained eye for the finer things in life. Her secret behind building an incredibly close rapport with her models is simple: At the age of 16, she signed a modeling contract with a Parisian agency, which served as the starting point for a long career in front of the camera. After modeling, she worked as a make-up artist in Paris, Milan, and Madrid, before switching sides and focusing on her photography in the year 2000. Based on her extensive experience in all parts of the business, the self-professed control freak knows the full value of a tightly knit team of stylists, make-up artists, and models that can be the make or break of every great photo shoot. Judging by her work »Snotty«, Estelle seems to have found the right folks to work with. Oh, and she also shot this issue’s cover! Lovely.
MASTHEAD EDITOR IN CHIEF
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Stefan Dongus dongus@eyewear-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817
Pascal Albandopulos Marie Bärsch Stefan Dongus Nic Frechen Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter Stefan Kapfer Det Kempke Jo Kirchherr Estelle Klawitter Marcus Schäfer Raphael Schmitz Christian Steinhausen Eva Tuerbl
EDITOR Jana Wenge wenge@eyewear-magazine.com
ART DIRECTION Julianna Csépe csepe@eyewear-magazine.com
GRAPHIC Tomaz Aquino
PROOFREADING Franca Rainer
TRANSLATION English Version Dirk Vogel
ONLINE EDITOR Jana Wenge presse@eyewear-magazine.com
PUBLISHER Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestr. 20-22 50672 Köln t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 eyewear-magazine.com facebook.com/eyewearmagazine
This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in elec-tronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.
COVER
DISTRIBUTION
Stefan Dongus, Holger von Krosigk
DPV Network GmbH Postfach 570 412 22773 Hamburg dpv-network.de
CONTRIBUTORS
Dirk Vogel
F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de
CEOS
EYEWEAR is published three times per year.
GLASSES John Varvatos »V365 UF« PHOTO Estelle Klawitter STYLING Mascha Moeller HAIR & MAKE-UP Nicola Weidemann MODEL Manouche Bouchain
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E D I TO R I A L
EYEWEAR IN THE BRAVE NEW WORLD The USA are widely known as a country full of opposites. Rich and poor. Past and present. Winners and losers. It’s all right here, side by side – but also worlds apart most of the time. The American eyewear business is also not lacking in contrasts: While the majority of consumers is happily rocking standard-issue glasses straight off the rack at the local drug store, the U.S. is also home to an active scene of independent eyewear designers and progressive brands. And nobody seems to mind those opposites – there’s enough room for everything here in America. When I left trend-savvy Berlin-Kreuzberg in 2007 to move to the States, my first experience at an optical store – within a huge mall in North Carolina – instantly brought home the fact that things are a little different over here as far as eyewear retail is concerned. Sure, there were some »cool« glasses up on the racks at the mall, but those were all limited to brands owned by major global eyewear conglomerates. Once I moved to the far more progressive Pacific Northwest in 2009, a whole new world opened through Seattle’s vivid scene of independent opticians and brands. Making a home in the city that brought the world Grunge and Starbucks, I had to face the truth: I had been living in the boonies for all those years! And: There is no lack of on-trend brands and designers in the US-eyewear business – far from it! Exactly five years ago, I was offered a chance to take an even closer look at the US-eyewear scene: As the USeditor for Eyewear Magazine, I have been covering the individuals in this brave new eyewear world as a writer, while also translating the German version of this magazine into English. A lot has happened over this half decade; stories like independent Seattle opticians »Eyes On Fremont« and the interview with Oakley President Colin Baden range among my personal milestones here at Eyewear. Moving to Los Angeles in 2013 provided an up-close-and-personal view of California’s rich eyewear and design scene, including the interview with Nicolas Rosselier, the designer behind John Varvatos Eyewear, as well as Garret Leight from the storied California eyewear dynasty. This issue adds another personal highlight, a meeting with two of the greatest minds of their individual craft: Eyewear designer Shane Baum and pioneering musician and artist Mark Mothersbaugh of New Wave phenomenon DEVO. For me as a skateboarder, nothing short of a dream come true … Next to skateboarding, Los Angeles will always be known for Hollywood – a timeless source of inspiration for fashion and eyewear design, as well as the set of a photo shoot by Marie Bärsch in this issue. As always, we at Eyewear are trying to be open towards cultural inspiration from all across the globe, which is why this issue features photo shoots in Brazil, Greece, three shots(!) on Ibiza, as well as one in »Good Old Germany.« And as per usual, our issue offers the usual blend of large and small brands, polished titanium and natural horn, designer fashions and casual styles. Because after all, not only the USA are known as a world full of opposites, but so is the brave new world of Eyewear. And that’s a good thing! On that note, enjoy this diverse issue and thanks for five years of Eyewear, Dirk Vogel US-Editor 32
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SUSTAINABLE AND RESILIENT As a »strong brand« made in Germany, outdoor-equipment specialist V aude embraces social responsibility, sustainability, and environmental conservation. The brand’s eyewear collection offers current designs with materials including ultra-light beta titanium, modern acetate, and flexible nylon with transparent color gradient. The frames afford athletic-approved lightweight by implementing TR90, supported by nature-oriented POS materials and eyewear cases. As part of the company’s »2nd Life« project, each pair of glasses can be returned at the end of its exciting »first life« to the optician as a donation to people in need around the world. Vaude has already passed our magazine’s ultimate test of resilience: Philipp, the five year old son of our editor Stefan has been testing his »VD200« Sports Glasses for three months now. The stunning results: 1. The glasses still aren’t broken, and 2. He likes them so much that he refuses to wear any other glasses. www.ivko.de
SILMO, PARIS - VILLAGE, STAND F86 / VEW, LAS VEGAS - STAND 19057
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RU R IKKE R TB IC
RU TIC KB E RRI K
EYEWEAR WITH A CONSCIENCE
BULLISH ON PATTERNS
Wood continues to be a trending eyewear material: Ger-
For what is only their second collection,
man label K erbhol z is founded on the love for sustain-
German fashion label L i ebe sk i nd Berlin
able natural products and a passion for design. The latest
is kicking things into high gear: The
collection is equally on-trend and dynamic. For its frames, latest collection is 80 models strong – the label sources materials such as acetate, stone/wood
more than double the size of the launch
combinations and several rare woods such as white birch,
collection! The love story with exclusive
rosewood, and ebony. All handmade sunglasses are treat-
patterns continues in two new designs:
ed with a sustainable finish for enduring the elements.
Based on original L i ebe sk i nd prints, the
The raw wood is sourced from FSC-certified suppliers in
»Würfelhavanna« and »Blocco« patterns
India and Indonesia. The FSC label guarantees sustain-
offer remarkable prints in both men’s
able forrest management in accordance with the needs of
and women’s models. Next to prints, the
nature, humans, and animals. Overall, K erbhol z offers
collection dazzles with trending colors
eyewear with a conscience in a unique mix of cool style,
such as khaki, brown, and taupe in mat-
sustainability and modern craftsmanship.
ted, glossy, and transparent colorways.
www.aufdemkerbholz.de
Across the board, all models feature polymer CR39 lenses with UV400 protection. www.wagner-kuehner.de
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LIFE IN THE FAST LANE
PREMIUM LEATHERS
Making a fashion statement is not always about loud, in-
For that special upscale finish, eyewear
your-face accents. Subtle nuances can also prove just as
label J.F.R e y introduces the »Leather«
eye-catching, and the latest collection by upcoming Swiss
collection, combining retro shapes with
eyewear label V iu is living proof. Designed by Aeberhard/ colored leathers. Bringing the unique Kaegi studio, all models are hand-made in a traditional
look full-circle, the natural grain of
manufacturing workshop in Italy in 80 production steps.
leather on the outside is complemented
Next to V iu ’s regular line-up, the label constantly releases
by tortoise patterns on the insides of the
limited edition models in cooperation with other labels
frames. Colors with lots of pop combine
and designers. Having opened their first flagship stores in
with premium materials, clean shapes,
Zurich in 2014, the brand recently expanded with new
and stylish tortoise pattern for an overall
doors in Munich and Berlin in 2015. Definitely one to
look of »casual chic« in a very of-the-
watch!
moment finish. The monochromatic
www.shopviu.ch
colorways, also very much on-trend, enhance the subtle structures of the leather in one of the most stylish sunglasses collections of the season. www.jfrey.fr
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VINTAGE WITH A MODERNEN TWIST With their new »Vintage« Collection, E tn ia B arcelona offers the best of two worlds: The six sunglasses and eight RX-frames blend classic and genuine acetate from the 1970s – collected at Mazzucheli factories in Italy – with the brand’s trendsetting color pop. The result is a strikingly modern collection, enhanced by the contrast between 15 different acetate colorways and classic tortoise patterns in color tones such as Havana, Tortoise, and Carey. For another throwback to original 1970s stylistics, the frames are equipped with 17 different mineral lenses from the time-honored B arber i n i factory in Italy. The namesakes of the new models were chosen from hip neighborhoods around the world that are home to free and creative spirits: »Malasaña«, »Kreuzberg«, »Williamsburg«, »Shoreditch«, as well as the »Mission District«. This way, the »Vintage« collection successfully bridges the gap between classic materials and the trendsetters of our modern age. www.etniabarcelona.com
WELCOME EY EW EAR ISSUE 15 p hoto STEFAN DONGUS
„Flat is the new curved“
8000
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» L a w re n c e «
A n dre a s Ma l a t hounis f rom i B r a n d s E u r o p e an d C hr is toph Hahn e f rom D e s i g n A p pa r a t ca pt u re d a t B r ille nm e ss e in C ologne .
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IN THE MOOD s t ylin g SASKIA SCHMIDT a t BIGOUDI h air & m ake -up ANNE TIMPER photo a ssis t ant NICK PIESK s t ylin g a ssis t ant SHARINA LICHTL mod el TESSA BRUINSMA a t SEEDS
AM EYEWEAR »Jon Jon «
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b lou s e & sk i r t KILIAN KERNER
KOMONO »T h e S t e ll a «
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w h it e d re ss MAL AIK AR AISS, pu r pl e d re ss ASOS
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KOMONO »T h e H ippoly t e «
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d re ss VERSACE , c a rd i g a n MAIAMI
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PR ADA » S PR 24R «
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P u llo v e r MAIAMI
PR ADA » S PR 3 0R «
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co a t TIM L ABENDA , pu llo v e r MAL AIK AR AISS
BARTON PERREIR A X CHRISTIAN ROTH »T h e A f fa i r«
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pu llo v e r TIM L ABENDA , p a n t s NIKE , sho e s DOC MARTENS
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LEISURE SOCIET Y »V i n son «
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co a t BOBBY KOL ADE , p a n t s MARINA HOERMANSEDER , b lou s e ASOS
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HAPTER »M 01M «
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b lou s e BOBBY KOL ADE
E D I TROURB’RSI KC H O I C E
REACH FOR THE TOP! photo JO KIRCHHERR mod el ANNA-LOUISE a t NOTOYS.DE
How about infusing your summer wardrobe with some extra cool flair this summer? And with »extra cool« we mean gear that’s made to perform way up in the mountains on icy glaciers. For their latest cool eyewear release, A nderne takes the rugged adventure spirit of classic glacier glasses into the urban realm as the perfect accessory for exploring the city.
ANDERNE » C lou d No. 9 «
The look of the »Cloud No. 9« model is distinctly masculine with a cool color palette ranging from frosty titanium to pitch black. The frame is ultra lightweight; the temples flexible; the entire product super slim, yet robust. The temple tips maintain a secure fit while the shields around the lenses fully wrap the eyes for protection. Like Barry Finlay said: »Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing.«
COLLEC TION CHECK
MARKUS T DESIGN/D3 KOLLEK T ION
photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
COLLEC TION CHECK
German designer MARKUS T loves the humble understatement of the Westphalian countryside, and consciously decided against setting up offices in one of the country’s metropolitan eyewear hotspots. This frees up the designer who manufacturers 100% in Germany from the dictates of current fashion trends, and opens up new approaches. For proof, here’s a look at the new »D3« Collection with commentary from Markus Temming.
COLLEC TION CHECK
»D3 . 3 1 5 « & »D 3 . 3 2 0 «
What are the special characteristics of the D3 Collection?
that have made the »D1/D2« true classics: The frame appears to be molded from one single
For me personally, the new »DESIGN/D3« is
piece of wire, and it’s light as a feather and
absolutely unique. It opens up a new direction
comfortable to wear.
while also embodying the core of what defines M ark us T. It provides a new take on our very first collection, the »D1/D2« that marked our
What are some other changes compared to the first edition, the »D1/D2« released in 1999?
market entry in 1999. At the same time, we
Markus Temming: In 1999 the »D1/D2«
consciously chose to ignore all prior knowledge
proved a major success for M ark us T. Even
for a new invention of the »D3«.
today, I’ll sometimes come across someone
How about new features in this collection?
in town wearing a first-generation »D1/D2«
New additions include a patented hinge system
which is always a great feeling. Shapes, colors,
for a highly simplified switching of the frame’s
and technologies have fundamentally changed
temples, all the way to a revolutionary coloring
for the »D3«, but not without reinterpreting
process that blends the color into the material
and evolving some of the initial ideas that res-
to prevent chipping and abrasion. The »D3« is
onated with so many people. Ultimately, many
marked by an evolved, contemporary form lan-
fans of the original »D1/D2« will gravitate to-
guage while also incorporating all the elements
wards the new models, just as much as people
COLLEC TION CHECK
» D 3 .3 1 3 « & » D 3 .3 1 9 « & » D 3 . 322«
who have so far been unaware of our DESIGN
ideal opportunity: It offers distinctly mascu-
collection.
line shapes right next to minimalist forms that
How has the manufacturing process at MARKUS T changed?
assimilate to the shape of the wearer’s face. But it also features rather feminine and rounded
It’s changed quite a bit. While the »D1/D2«
shapes similar to the original panto shape. The
model were pretty much manufactured at my
delicate wire of the »D3« offers design options
home, the »D3« is now produced at our family
for a variety of ideas. Meanwhile, the overall
business offices with 70 employees. One thing
lookof the collection is rather coherent.
Several models feature contemporary still takes place in Germany. double nose bridges. Did MARKUS T draw How many models are part of the collection? inspiration from 1980s eyewear fashions? remains the same, though: All manufacturing
Markus Temming: For the launch of the collec-
We always strive to design timeless collections,
tion we have developed 24 models. We con-
but without missing out on new influenc-
tinue to always progress and evolve. M ark us T
es. Sometimes we include varieties of classic
never pursued the goal of building static collec-
design elements into our models, but with
tions. We use every chance to draw inspiration
completely new interpretations. One of those
from our surroundings and everyday influenc-
classics is the double nose bridge, which was
es, for which the »D3« collection provided an
very on-trend in the 1980s and still remains
COLLEC TION CHECK
typical of that era. We really liked the idea of
in this collection?
implementing this design element in a delicate
All frames by M ark us T are crafted from tita-
frame like the »D3«. Actually, we ended up lik-
nium and TMi. These two mark a commitment
ing the result so much that we included it in ten
to high-grade materials that provide extremely
models of the new collection. At the same time,
different characteristics. In the »D3«, titanium
the double bridge in our unique version does
features as a delicate, only 1mm-thin wire that
not come across as a »relic« from past decades,
constitutes the mid-section of the frames. It’s a
but young and modern – a perfect fit for the
lightweight, durable, and allergy-free mate-
»D3« Collection.
rial. When it comes to creating nuanced and
And which model is your personal favorite?
subtle shapes such as the »D3« frames, only the
My personal favorite of the collection is the
highest grade titanium can be used. The surface
»D3.318« in gold.
is matted and thereby accentuates the colors
Why this particular one?
quite brilliantly. In darker tones, the glasses ap-
I love the ambivalence embodied by this mod-
pear elevated and subtle, in radiant colors they
el: At first sight, it comes across as conserva-
sparkle and reflect the light. That way, despite
tive, but at the same time it’s totally modern.
the delicate nature of the wire, we can create
No retro shape, but rather an intersection of
color accents on the wearer’s face. TMi is the
different styles. A pair of glasses I feel particu-
material for the temples of the »D3« frames. It’s
larly comfortable in.
a polymer that we have developed ourselves.
What’s the difference between top rim, full rim, and double bridge?
For a long time, we had been unable to find a material that was light enough for our frames
All three are design variations that are suitable
and also stable enough to retain its shape. This
for delicate eyewear frames. And every single
started a development period that lasted sev-
one has its own charms. The clearest difference
eral years, after which we perfected TMi. It is
lies between the full rim and double bridge
single-handedly one of the lightest materials in
models compared to our top rim shapes. The
the eyewear business and allows us to produce
top rim really accentuates the delicate wire
the »D3« at a frame weight of only 3.7 grams.
on top of the eyes, making the lenses appear
Anyone wearing the »D3« will hardly notice,
as if they’re floating through space. It’s a clear
all the way to forgetting about wearing a pair of
and pure design aesthetic that accentuates the
glasses altogether. That was our goal from the
lightness of the frames. The full rim and double
start.
bridge shapes implement a larger amount of material and offer more freedom in terms of
And you also developed a special coloring process?
design. Shapes and colors are accentuated more
MSC (Multiple-Step-Colouring) is our newly
strongly. It’s a bold departure from top rim
developed, patent-pending coloring process for
frames, and fully intended.
the titanium used in the »D3«.
And how about the materials you are using
What are the most innovative features of the
COLLEC TION CHECK
» D 3 .3 1 8 « & » D 3 . 326«
process?
years. And to fundamentally simplify, reduce,
In a sequence of eleven steps, we create a lasting
and improve the system. That’s why we have
bond between the colors and the material. This
developed the new hinge system and lens fit-
includes coloring through an electric process all
ting, allowing us to equip the »D3« with lenses
the way to coating the surface with sealant. We
entirely without drilling. The hinges are no
implement this brand-new process right at our
longer individual components but integrated
headquarters in the town of Isselhorst, and it
into the temples. The TMi used in the temples
offers seemingly unlimited options in terms of
retains its shape with such stability that we no
colorways. We used this creative freedom for
longer needed to implement a metal core. This
what is now a spectrum of nine different colors
also allows opticians to easily shorten the tem-
that will complement any skin tone. Colors
ples as needed, and affords a super light weight
range from deep black to a subtle gold tone all
look.
the way to radiant blue.
What were some of the technical challenges in the development process?
You recently turned heads with a special photo initiative. What’s the story? The collection is suitable for a variety of per-
The greatest technical challenge consisted
sonalities. It’s not just an empty cliche that the
of completely revising a system that we had
»D3« offers something for all types. It’s also the
driven to near perfection over the course of 16
philosophy behind our new photo campaign
COLLEC TION CHECK
» D 3 .3 2 1 « & » D 3 . 316«
started in July, for which we spontaneously
M ark us T glasses is not something everybody
approached people in the street and asked them
has. And even without placing a highly visible
to wear one of our glasses. The resulting images
brand icon on our frames, the wearers tend
are highly authentic, depicting people as they
to recognize one another – which makes us
truly are. And our experiences with the »D1/
really proud. We are also noticing an increasing
D2« have shown: A lot of the time, the people
amount of people who appreciate the unique
who end up falling in love with the intelligent
quality offered by hand-made products from
systems and innovative approaches of M ark us
Germany. For us as a family business imple-
T are the ones with an interest in technology.
menting the entire production chain right at
Then there are also the ones who appreciate the
our headquarters, this is a positive trend and
lightness and comfort of our frames.
reassuring that we’re headed in the right direc-
Technology is our signature and we’re not
tion so far.
trying to hide it in our collections – but rather emphasize it as our unique trademark. The coloring and form language are of-themoment, but without chasing the mainstream. This is also highly appreciated by people with an eye for special items. After all, a pair of
Markus, thanks for the interview.
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L.G.R » L a w re n c e «
l e a t h e r s w e a t e r MARINA HOERMANSEDER , l e g g i n g s ESTE MUSE
L.G.R » L a w re n c e «
l e a t h e r d re ss TIGHA
L L E
L AW I T T E K E
R
BY
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SNOTTY s t yli n g MASCHA MOELLER a t NINAKLEIN.COM h a i r & m a k e - u p NICOL A WEIDEMANN m a k e - u p a ss i s t a n t SAR A EZ a t TEAM WEIDEMANN mo d e l s MANOUCHE BOUCHAIN & INGA RUXTON a t TUNE-MODELS.COM re tou c h ZERONE- GROUP.DE
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J O H N VA R VAT O S »V 365 U F «
s w e a t e r MAVI
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J O H N VA R VAT O S »V 365 U F «
d re ss JUST C AVALLI
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GÖTTI »A b r y « l e a t h e r ho o d y TIGHA , r i n g s CHRISTIANE WINK , nos e r i n g ST YLIST’S OWN, p a nt s TIGHA
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GÖTTI »R ob «
d re ss VIC TOR & ROLF, sho e s A . S.98, nos e r i n g ST YLIST’S OWN
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HAMBURG EYEWEAR »mo d . 1«
ja c k e t SUD, b ra KLEIDERREICH, sk i r t 5PREVIEW
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MARC O’POLO »5 03 0 62 4 0 «
l e a t h e r ja c k e t DESQUARED2, je w e lr y CHRISTIANE WINK , sho e s DR . MARTENS, nos e r i n g ST YLIST’S OWN, l e g g i n g s ESTE MUSE
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JIL SANDER »J 20 05 «
l e a t h e r v e s t SCHOT T, je a n s TIGHA
PORSCHE DESIGN »P ’ 8279 «
l e a t h e r ja c k e t SCHOT T, je a n s YAYA , e a r r i n g s MODELS OWN
AUTHENTIC PEOPLE/ DIRK WEARS MARKUS T 100% Handmade in Germany
VISIT US SILMO 2015, PARIS SEPTEMBER 25 – 28
D E S I G N E R OF THE MONTH N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 4
M AT E R I A L W O R L D
RODENSTOCK R8010 REDUCE TO T HE CORE p h o to s R APHAEL SCHMITZ
T he » R 8 0 1 0 « is a ca s e s t u d y in c u s tomi z ed f it s : For t he f ram e ’s t e mple s , w e a re r s ca n cho os e b e t w e e n b e e ch wo o d , hor n , an d alu minu m .
For the past few years, the world’s most innovative eyewear designers have been engaged in an arms race for the optimal hinge system. Currently leading the way are brands with simple, purist solutions. Munich-based R odens tock enters the race with a new interchangeable temple system entirely without screws and hinges, true to the brand’s reductionist aesthetic. The temples simply slide into the front section of the frame, supported by the fact that R oden s tock builds all individual parts with utmost precision for a complete overall look as one single unit. Thanks to a number of color options, wearers can pair the purist front of their frames with
new temples for an entirely new look; bringing a new level of customization into eyewear. The front section of the »R8010« is crafted from RXP, a high-performance polymer specifically developed by R odens tock . The temples are available in three material choices: Beechwood adds warm, organic touches to the sleek, minimal frames. Horn creates an upscale finish, while aluminum adds a polished, cool aesthetic. Composed of four unisex frames, the new collection will launch in September 2015 in an exclusive velour case containing a front segment complemented by two pairs of stylish temples. Because reducing the design is not the same as reducing the style!
M AT E R I A L W O R L D
Te mple s a n d f ront s e c tion sh ip in a s t ylish v elou r ca s e .
R ed uce d to t h e m a x : th e t e mple s sli d e into t he f ront s e c t ion – simply b r illi ant .
SOCIAL HUB
F EAT URING CAZAL HALF LEAT HER BOX photo RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
In mid-June of this year, we asked all of our readers to take part in the very first #M yframe shot campaign. Well, we got what we asked for – the response has been nothing less than totally overwhelming. Perhaps this was also due to the fact that our collabo partner C az al provided a premium package for our winner. Our call-out on F acebook featuring four limited-edition models from the Half Leather Box single-handedly racked up 2,000 »Likes« in a short amount of time. Our I ns tagram initiative was just as successful, with over 600 user photos tagged with #M y frame shot .
Our judges sure had a tough time pi-
cking a winner, but ultimately chose the expressive and creative shot submitted by Pascal Brouwer from Arnheim. We really suggest checking out his Instagram account @pscl73 because you will see – Pascal is already a dedicated collector of C az al frames. The winner’s collection now also includes the 163, 607, 623, and 627 models in classic black colorways. And to make sure that these limited edition remakes with the stylish top bar covered in reptile leather make their passage to the Netherlands in one piece, we also included an equally stylish case. Congratulations!
PA R T
I
SOCIAL HUB
#MYFR AMESHOT – HOW DOES IT WORK? #M yframe shot is our unique hashtag for en-
Speaking of the future, one thing is already for
gaging our entire eyewear community to share
certain: Our very first collabo campaign with
their photos with us – and the rest of the (eye-
C az al will certainly not be the last. The next
wear) world. By tagging your shots with #M y -
round #M yframe shot Part. II – THE OPTICIAN
frame shot
and the name of the eyewear #brand
COMPETITION is almost ready to launch. (See
and #location, you make sure your eyewear
more info on pg. 172) But whether it’s competiti-
snapshots won’t get lost in the infinite depths
on time or not – please always tag your eyewear
of the Internet. And to make extra sure, we will
shots with #M yframe shot and the #Label and
archive your photos in 2016 on their own special
#City. We can’t wait to see what you come up
website for future generations.
with …
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CAZAL » 8 022«
s w i m s u it CIA .MARITIMA
AC H A TA S Y
O L I
HÖ C H S T E T
T
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SS
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EQUATORIAL s t yl i n g DAVID POLLAK h a i r & m a ke - up PAULO FILATIER mo d el MARIYA HLYVNUYK a t JOY MODEL MANAGEMENT
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STR ADA DEL SOLE » 0 6 8/ 2«
s w i m s u it AMIR SL AMA
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CAZAL » 8 024 «
b i k i ni HERING FOR YOU, s tol a PELE FAKE
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COBLENS »Tra g f l ä c h e «
top LENNY NIEMEYER
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COBLENS »K e t t e n a nl e g e pl a t z «
s w i m s u it MAR RIO
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LEISURE SOCIET Y »T ilm a n «
b i k i ni MAR RIO, t re n c h co a t TRITON
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LEISURE SOCIET Y »A d r i n a «
shor t s ELLUS LIMITED
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BARTON PERREIR A » C olon sa y «
E T 1 74 8 3 - 5 3 5 / C H A R M A N T. D E
EYEWEAR FALL/WINTER 2015
L A B E L U P D AT E
SUZY GLAM ALL NEW: OF F ICE / SHOW ROOM / GALLERY / ST Y LES
stills RAPHAEL SCHMITZ, por trait DICK KIKSTRA
S u sa n n e K le mm a t S UZ Y G LAM Store , R oelof Har t s t ra a t 32H , 1071VK A ms t e rd a m .
L A B E L U P D AT E
» B re aks R u le s«
-
I like this style because it was the first in a new series. It’s super feminine and elegant. The surface of the frame is like a pebble that has been washed over and over by the water. It gives a smoothness to the frame that makes it strong and soft at the same time.
About a year ago, we paid a visit to eyewear label SUZY GLAM, founded 2012 in Utrecht, the Netherlands. Susanne and Etienne welcomed us at their home, which also served as their offices at the time, while the workshop where Susanne designed her prototypes was also right down the street. But that was then – and much has changed for the upstart label with the signature three-dimensional shapes. SUZY GLAM has found a new home in the Dutch capital, Amsterdam, where the new showroom has been displaying their own collections next to rotating guest showcases in a new pop-up store format. And of course, there’s plenty to talk about in terms of new eyewear styles … so here’s our Label Update.
L A B E L U P D AT E
» Fa s t e n s S e a t belt«
-
»Fastens Seatbelt« is a great frame for female faces because of the cat eye-effect. In cat eye frames the balance has to be right and therefore the top line bends down at the end. It’s like an ideal eyebrow line. The shape works very well with the bevels. This frame will look good even ten years from now.
Hello Susanne, last year we met in Utrecht at your home that was also your office. Now you moved to Amsterdam – just for business?
tomers. It’s important for us to see the people who actually wear our frames.
Is there a common denominator among your clients?
Amsterdam is a great city and I moved from
S uzy G lam designs eyewear for self-confident
Zurich to the Netherlands only because of
people who like to wear beautiful accessories.
this city. It’s a liberal city with a big variety of
Many of our clients have an interest in design
people and I feel very much at home here. So
and art. They understand what is special about
much so, that we also decided to move to Am-
our label. It’s about good shapes that make
sterdam for living.
people look better. Strong shapes that empha-
What makes Amsterdam good for your busisize character. ness? Talking about the location and design of the As our office indeed was in our home, we store, what was important for you? needed a bigger space. Amsterdam has the
I wanted to do everything by ourselves. It had
most international atmosphere and as most
to look like a S uzy G lam store with a strong
capitals, it’s just more vibrant. A bigger city
identity. Besides, we wanted to show that I am
also provided the opportunity to open an op-
really making the prototypes myself. In the
tical shop where we could meet our end cus-
open in-store workshop, people can see the
L A B E L U P D AT E
whole process of designing a frame.
Beyond the workshop, do you handle other business aspects at the store, like back office and logistics?
themselves it’s only interesting when they do not have a solid base in the Benelux region. They stay in our store for two months and Amsterdam is a great place to promote their
Yes, the store is also our head office. This com-
brands. So far we worked with »Paulino«,
bination is great and because it’s only Etienne
»Willems Wonderglasses«, and »8000 Eye-
and me, there is no reason to set up divisions
wear«.
in our company. We do everything at this
Which labels are next?
location. But to be honest, when I’m home,
We just did an opening party with Tarian. His
work just continues. It’s not something you
collection will be in our store until the end of
can switch off. Especially not when I’m in a
August. Next will be an interesting name from
creative process.
Japan, but that’s not 100 % confirmed yet.
Sounds like a 24/7 relationship between Etienne and you.
Talking about products, which SUZY GLAM styles were the most successful so far?
We do everything together. Etienne’s focus is
We started with »Faces the Face,« a facetted
just more on the business side of the company
female frame with exactly the right balance of
and mine more on design. But there is no strict
boldness and elegance. It’s one of my
line. Only together S uzy G lam is complete.
favorites and also one of our best-sellers. It
So visitors of the store get their advice from Susanne Klemm personally?
will stay in the collection for a long time. »Rocks this Town« is a strong male frame
Yes, I love this aspect and it’s what I’ve been
based on pebbles; thick and very present. A
doing for many years when I worked at
man who wears this frame must be a self-con-
»Nesoptiek«. It’s a skill at which you become
fident man. While designing it, I didn’t look at
better and better. I also do the eye exams when
what fashion demands nowadays so we were
needed.
not sure about the success. Fortunately, our
The collection in the SUZY GLAM store is not limited to your own brand, you also offer space to independent labels. How do you choose the guest collections?
clients love it.
How many frames from previous collections will make it into the upcoming range? We don’t make a whole new collection every
They have to be independent labels who add
season. The designs should be good for a lon-
something new to the market. For the labels
ger period. We started with six models and
L A B E L U P D AT E
»Ha s L e f t the B u il d in g «
-
A double bridge is something I wanted to do from the beginning. The combination of bevels, the double bridge and the thin bottom line make it a complex design. However, altogether it got the right balance. It’s a frame that definitely stands out in contemporary eyewear.
have now 14. So until now, the collection only
all kind of things that belong to her glamor-
got bigger and more complete. When we’ll
ous and bohemian way of living. She »Travels
have 15, we will think of taking a model out.
Light« to »Rock this Town« where she’s »Right
At »Silmo« we will present two new models
on Time« and »Spends a Fortune« to »Get the
and one limited edition sun frame.
Award«. When she »Thinks Big« she »Goes
What’s special about the new models? They’re a further development of existing models. Three-dimensionality is one of the key characteristics of my designs, besides the fitting. That also applies to the new models.
Are you adding some new colorways? For
some existing models we have added new
colors like emerald green, sea green, and concrete. We will do more and more soft tones like nude, ivory and skin colors.
Is there a common theme behind the funny-sounding model names? Suzy Glam is a character name and she does
Bananas« and »Wants the DJ« before she »Has left the Building.«
Wow, that is poetry! Thanks Susanne!
10 T H E S E S
BLACKFIN NICOL A DEL DIN’S 10 THESES photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
Nicola del Din, CEO of Italian eyewear producer Pramaor describes his company as a 44-year-old start-up. On the one hand, Pramaor is experienced enough to command extensive produc-tion know-how, on the other hand it’s still young enough to develop in new direc-tions. Six years ago, Pramaor started its own label BLACKFIN. In this very short time period the company from Northern Italy managed to garner large amounts of attention in the eyewear market. How did they do it? »There are some good reasons,« says Nicola del Din, »exactly ten!«
10 T H E S E S
1. JAPANESE TITANIUM SHAPED WITH ITALIAN TALENT
5. TECHNOLOGY AND FASHION
»We always buy the best Japanese raw titanium and we shape this extraordinary material in Italy, knowing how to take advantage of every feature.«
»In every frame the lightness and strength of titanium are combined with one-of-a kind fashion style which enhances the B lackfi n uniqueness and the personality of the wearer.«
6. EXTRAORDINARY HANDMADE COLORS
2. ITALIAN TASTE, NORTHERN EUROPEAN ORGANIZATION
»The multiple chromatics, carefully handcraft»Italian taste and mood give every frame a spe- ed in Italy, emphasize the well-defined characcial essence, but a Northern European organiza- ter of the frame making it remarkably unique.« tion makes everything happen in a perfect mix that leads to top quality.« 7. ONLY BLACKFIN HAS
ULTRAFLEXIBLE TEMPLES 3. A START-UP OF 44 YEARS »Our technical skills are based on 44 years of hard and professional work in the eyewear sector, combined with the young, innovative and different way of thinking of a fresh start up.«
»Temples made from just five-tenths of a millimeter sheet of Beta Titanium ensure distinguished comfort, due to the extreme flexibility and adaptability of the temples to the face.«
8. REVOLUTIONARY TEMPLE-TIPS 4. COMFORT AND DESIGN FROM JUST 1.9 GRAMS »Starting at just 1.9 grams our eyewear has a strong personality and distinct style, so light and comfortable that it is nearly imperceptible.«
»The patented Swordfish temple-tips permit wearers to manually adjust the length of the temples to the shape of the face – in just a few seconds.«
» Pe ar son «
10 T H E S E S
9. DECORATIONS AND LASER MARKINGS »B lackfi n frames are marked with durable and precious engravings and decorations made with anodic laser technology. For more uniqueness we offer to laser-engrave the wearer’s name, so their B lackfi n will be even more individualized and personal.«
10. NEOMADEINITALY »Each pair of B lackfi n is entirely designed and manu-factured by us here in Italy with uncompromising quality and ethics. It’s what we proudly call Neomadeinitaly, a mix of values and skills that breathe soul into a technically perfect accessory.« www.blackfin.eu
» B a y v ie w «
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
SALT SEA – AIR – L AND T IMELESS ON IBIZA
photos SABINE LIEWALD, st yling & produc tion MARTINA NELLES, hair & make-up GAYE HIET TE at BIGOUDI with INGLOT, models HANNAH KOEPPLER at POP MODEL & CHIARA BASCHET TI at POP MODELS
»Z issou «
»R ob yn «
»S t e v e«
»S t e v e S u n «
»R ob yn R X «
SALT. is an acronym for Sea, Air, Land & Timeless. True to its name, the California eyewear label draws inspiration from the effortless beauty of nature that is an endless source of shapes, details, and colorways for new designs. In this issue’s collection shoot, the latest styles from SALT. eyewear get the fashion treatment on the Spanish island of Ibiza courtesy of photographer Sabine Liewald’s vision, supplemented by models dressed in all white by stylist Martina Nelles.
»W in sle tt«
»N e d«
»R e n z o«
»Kl a u s«
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
SA LT. + A E T HER COLL ABOR ATION SA LT. »R i d g e w a y « s w i m s u i t ZIMMERMANN
Speaking of fashion, for its very first collaboration project, S alt . has chosen a label that shares the same passion for nature. Together with A e t her , a brand known for top-tier technical outerwear, the Southern California-based
S alt . is about to celebrate its tenth brand anniversary this
company collaborated on two frame
coming year. The rather young label is headquartered in
styles; the »Scout« and the »Explor-
Costa Mesa, a short drive South of Los Angeles, and has
er«, initially designed with motorcy-
built a reputation for blending California lifestyle with
cle riders in mind. The lightweight,
Japanese craftsmanship. For the folks behind S alt . the
beta-titanium frames are extremely
California lifestyle connection not only means an easy-
flexible, while windshields and an
going attitude, but also a strong bond with all things
extended frame-top reduce wind flow
nature. Pretty much all employees are into outdoors activ-
and peripheral sunlight by more than
ities, and the company’s structure reflects the connections
80%, also shielding the eyes from
between micro- and macrocosm in the natural world.
UV-rays. Overall, the two new frames
Everything is connected; everything is part of a network.
are perfect for all outdoor activities
There are no hierarchies, every single person on the team
that involve speed and free-flowing
plays an important part. Every single one! At S alt ., it’s all
motion. At the same time, they are just
about team work. There is not one owner or two owners,
as much at home on a wild bike ride
as the company values team work over personal egos.
as on a casual stroll through the city.
There are also no investors to feed with results at the end
Their fashion appeal is probably one of
of a year; so no chasing quick profits for the sake of statis-
the reasons why the first run of models
tics. What a breath of fresh air … All of this affords S alt .
from this powerful brand synergy im-
the freedom to take risks and manage a healthy business.
mediately sold out after barely hitting
>>
the market.
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
SALT. X AE THER » E x p l o re r «
-
b i k i n i L A PER L A , c a p e Z AR A , n e c k l a c e JE WEL S FOR YOU b y SAR INA AR NOLD
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
SA LT. »Joh n« v e s t ISABEL MAR ANT, p a n t s ZOE K ARSSEN, n e c k l a c e JEWELS FOR YOU b y SARINA ARNOLD
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
SA LT. X A E T HER » S cou t« d re ss ALEX ANDER WANG
SA LT. »R o d d e n « -
SA LT. »A ly c i a « -
d re ss ALICE & OLIVIA b y STACEY BENDET
s w i m s u i t ERRES, n e c k l a c e FOOLSGOLD
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
»C od y«
» Hou s ton «
»Ja q u e s«
SA LT. X A E T HER » S cou t« -
»F ranc in e «
o v e ra ll RITA L AGUNE , n e c k l a c e FOOLSGOLD
»Ele anor «
The same kind of open-minded approach applies to defining S alt .’s customer base. Although the glasses are a major success among fashion designers, actors, and creative types, the brand maintains that there is no typical S alt . customer: »S alt . is a brand for anyone who appreci-
»B l anche t«
ates simple things made well.« This statement also sums up the philosophy behind the two collections designed by David Rose every year. Constantly inspired by the beauty of nature, the frames are designed to be universal and
»C a t e«
timeless, true to S alt .’s moniker. Trends come and go, but S alt . is banking on enduring values in their sunglasses and prescription models; with the current spread between the two currently at a solid 40/60. But make no mistake, timeless consistency does not equal boring or complacent
»Anjelica«
– just the opposite. For proof, look no further than the 18 new models about to launch in Fall of 2015, perfectly encapsu-lating the S alt . essence and fashion-forward design aesthetic with an emphasis on longevity.
»An n e Mar ie«
Style: V796
REMDOTTICA +44 (0)1159 677912 SILMO Hall: 6 | Aisle: F | Booth: 062
N
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WA L D E I L
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KBL » S t ra w b e r r y F i e l d s«
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htp.de
OWP Brillen GmbH, www.metropolitan-eyewear.de
www.facebook.com/metropolitan.eyewear
TEN QUESTIONS
TEN QUESTIONS
ADRIAN MARWITZ T EN QUEST IONS por tra it SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTET TER , s til l s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
Time flies when you’re having fun. Back in the tenth issue of our magazine, we introduced the freshly released ADRIAN MARWITZ label. Fast-forward to today, and the renowned eyewear designer has traveled the entire world establishing his eponymous brand as a staple of modern eyewear style. You can find Adrian at every important eyewear tradeshow, and his collections have found their way into leading international boutiques and optical stores. Two years after the initial launch, we think it’s high time for an update. Here are our Ten Questions with Adrian Marwitz 123
TEN QUESTIONS
» S t ran ge r No. 1 6 «
» S t ran ge r No. 2 0 «
01 Adrian, what’s been keeping you busy over the past two years?
you envisioned it two years back? The brand has indeed developed exactly
Most of all the philosophy of being. Aside from
how I planned it two years ago. That actually
that, I’ve been traveling a bunch on field work,
took consistency and a good dose of dexteri-
designing eyewear, building tradeshow booths,
ty – both of which I managed to come up with,
and generally roaming the world in search of
fortunately.
people who like my glasses.
02 What’s different about your eyewear compared to two years ago?
04 Please briefly summarize the philosophy of the Adrian Marwitz. A dr ian M arwi tz represents full-titanium
Actually, not that much has changed. The basic
eyewear, handmade in Germany, love for de-
concept is the same and that’s not going to
tail, quality over quantity, strong recognizable
change. But we did increase the line-up to 30
style, and unique signature aesthetic.
pieces while adding some new colors – at this point we have eleven for each model.
03 They say that the early yeas are when a brand finds itself – sometimes heading in a different direction than initially planned. Is ADRIAN MARWITZ in a place today where
05 What were some of the milestones of your relatively young company history? For us, every new customer is a milestone. Finding customers who back the brand and products 100% and communicate them accordingly to end customers – that’s the most
TEN QUESTIONS
» S t ran ge r No. 2 2 «
» S t ran ge r No. 1 8 «
important part of our business.
06 What’s the most unique feature of the current collection?
differently? I’m actually really satisfied with the way the brand has developed and if there were some
The simplicity created by a multitude of de-
setbacks, they always provided a chance to go
tails.
down a new path, which was often better than
07 Which glasses are your highlights?
the initial direction. That’s why I’m content
The »Stranger No. 13« model has really made
with things just the way they are. Destiny, you
its rounds in the German media recently. By
might call it.
the way, without much of our own intervention, from reality TV to talk shows.
08 If you were to be compared with one brand, which one would it be? I put great emphasis on independence,
10 Where’s the journey headed in the future? That’s a rather philosophical question … Love is the most important part of life and the future lays out a path for us to walk on without losing
so I would rather not be compared to any
our balance or neglecting our desires. The phi-
other brand. A dr ian M arwi tz has to stand
losophy of being, if you will.
for itself.
09 Given the last two years of experience: If you could start it all over, what would you do
N E W IN TOW N
FHONE REBELS W ITHOU T A CAUSE
photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
» D a vi s«
»R u sh «
»R u sh «
»W il shi re «
N E W IN TOW N
As opposed to James Dean’s character in the
the »ONE« in the moniker signifies the label’s
1950s classic movie, it’s safe to say that Stefan
claim for bringing something truly unique to the
Flatscher and Uwe Pinhammer have a clear cause
eyewear industry.
for their work. After all, the dynamic duo has
In terms of products, the Fhone line-up consists
been working together for 25 years at this point,
of a classic collection featuring 30 models in four
and the two are regarded as household names in
to six colorways each, crafted from titanium, ace-
the eyewear industry. Spreading the gospel of
tate, and a unique titanium/acetate blend. Taking
stylish eyewear, the two also run five stores in
things to the next level of luxury, F hone intro-
downtown Munich where all the most current
duced a special buffalo horn collection under the
labels find their customers.
name »FHORN«.
Next to selling eyewear, Flatscher and Pinham-
While Uwe Pinhammer keeps a tight handle
mer also had a dream ever since selling their
on running the eyewear stores, Stefan Flatscher
F reudenhaus distribution outfit five years ago:
applies his design touches to the new collections.
Something was missing – namely their own
Overall, the F hone collection offers understated
thing, their own baby, a new eyewear label they
premium styles with subtle branding, perfect for
could nourish and build according to their own
accentuating the individuality of modern-day
vision. And instead of dreaming, the two found-
style rebels.
ed a new brand and distribution platform this
www.fhone.com
year – the rebellion is in full swing! In search of names, the two chose some very of-the-moment acronyms: The new distribution company is named E y wr (pronounced »eyewear«), while their new label is called F hone (pronounced »F. H. ONE.«) – with »F« short for »Flatscher« and the »H« for »PinHammer«. Plus,
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SHANE BAUM
MARK MOTHERSBAUGH T HE DE-VOLU T ION OF EY EW EAR? FAR F ROM IT!
int e r vie w DIRK VOGEL , photos STEFAN DONGUS, s til l s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
DE SIGN E R IN T E R V IE W
Sometimes an eyewear collabo just fits like a hand in glove. Case in point: The new eyewear collection co-designed by SHANE BAUM and MARK MOTHERSBAUGH brings together two creative heavyweights of their respective genres. Mothersbaugh is revered for trailblazing a new direction in pop culture as singer, songwriter, composer, and front man of influential New Wave band DEVO. With his eponymous label, MOTHERSBAUGH, he is now creating a unique selection of eyewear, bringing on board Shane Baum, the creative mastermind behind BAUMVISION and designer for some of the most haute labels in the eyewear business, including his very own brand LEISURE SOCIETY. For this issue’s Designer Interview, EYEWEAR gets the inside scoop behind this meeting of the minds.
DE SIGN E R IN T E R V IE W
»Mut a to« This thinner frame owes its name to a made-up word combination: »Mutant« blended with »Potato« is the name of Mark’s production company, inspired by DEVO’s lyrical attempts to describe the social pecking order of life, in which they ranged as »spuds« or »potatoes«. But powered by mutation, they take on super-human qualities, all the way to rocking bookish, more scholarly looking frames like these.
An important piece of conventional wisdom
his own artistic vision, starting things off with a
maintains: »Never meet your idols.« Ultimate-
line of eyewear. Was that something Shane could
ly, real life will only disappoint, shattering the
be interested in, perhaps?
glittering aura surrounding the heroes of our
Baum did not have to think twice. »I’ve been a fan
rebellious youth. And that’s especially true in
of Mark’s music career since I was 12 years old
the music business. But what happens when the
and was a member of the DEVO fan club,« said
artist who wrote the soundtrack to your teenage
Shane Baum. And as it turned out, the musician
wanderlust suddenly reaches out to co-design an
had, in turn, also developed an interest in optical
exclusive eyewear collection?
craftsmanship at quite a young age. From necessi-
That’s exactly what recently happened to Shane
ty, mostly. Mothersbaugh was born with extreme
Baum, the California-based designer who has
myopia and astigmatism. For the first seven years
been turning heads in the eyewear business since
of his life, he would constantly bump into walls
starting his own premium label L eisure S oci e t y
and objects, until a proper eye exam revealed that
in 2010. In the summer of 2014, Shane Baum
he was legally blind. »I got my first pair of glasses
received a request from no other than Mark
for my eighth birthday, and saw birds flying, the
Mothersbaugh, the musical trailblazer behind
tops of trees, even clouds for the first time in my
progressive New Wave band DEVO. The musi-
life,« said Mothersbaugh.
cian was in the middle of building his own brand, »It was amazing! I had never seen chimney smoke M ot her sbaugh , to create products according to
or the roof of a house and I immediately started
DE SIGN E R IN T E R V IE W
drawing everything I saw,« said Mark Mothers-
Asked what exactly he appreciates the most
baugh. Thanks to his newly found vision, he
about Mothersbaugh’s creative work, Shane said:
immediately decided to become an artist – his
»I admire Mark’s work ethic and his continu-
paintings have been featured at numerous mu-
al mantra to think ›outside of the box.‹ He has
seums, including the Museum of Contemporary
no interest in commercial schemes and is a true
Art in Denver – and also penned numerous de-
›artists’ artist.‹ His body of work is intrinsically
signs for custom-made glasses over the years. For
original and without peer.« Next to DEVO, the
many years, Los Angeles brand L . a . E ye work s
enormously prolific artist has released three solo
produced glasses according to Mothersbaugh’s
albums and composed the soundtracks to various
specific requirements.
marquee feature films, including the full score for
These creative forays into eyewear design formed
several Wes Anderson tales (»Rushmore«, »The
the perfect foundation for getting the ball roll-
Royal Tenenbaums«, and »The Life Aquatic« with
ing on a collaborative effort, said Shane Baum.
Steve Zissou), as well 2014’s »The Lego Movie«.
»Mark, being legally blind, intuitively creative,
The exclusive M ot her sbaugh X B aum E ye -
and a fan of eyewear in general was simply ex-
we ar
cited to make his own eyewear. For me, well, it’s
available in an RX and sunglasses version – and
my profession,« smiled Shane Baum, who cut his
was launched in November 2014 in Los Angeles.
teeth as a designer at »Optical Shop« in Aspen
Sounds easy, but turned out quite challenging;
under the tutelage of Bill Barton.
what with all the visionary ideas floating around.
Collection consists of three models – each
DE SIGN E R IN T E R V IE W
»F rance sca« This unisex frame with rectangular lenses literally covers both genders. The »Francesca« is named after the Mothersbaugh family dog, is an official »card carrying« hermaphrodite pooch, as confirmed by its veterinarian. As the precious pooch is both male and female, these frames can go »either way« as the ultimate unisex style.
Here are some of the milestones of getting this
of the »de-evolution« of mankind – highly pop-
unique – and somewhat futuristic looking – line
ular in avant-garde circles at the time – for which
of eyewear off the proverbial ground.
the band members found proof in events like the murder of unarmed anti-war protesters by Na-
I. A QUICK PRIMER ON DEVO
tional Guard troops at their university in 1970.
Without briefly touching upon the cultural sig-
Concerts of the »De-Evolution Band« blended
nificance and revolutionary influence of the band, subversive lyrics and futuristic costumes such or better yet, the phenomenon known as DEVO,
as bright-yellow jumpsuits paired with pyra-
any further discussion would be out of place.
mid-shaped plastic hats into avant-garde happen-
Those already familiar with DEVO are welcome
ings; an explosive blend of performance art with
to skip this segment, but here’s what needs to be
dark visions of the future that appealed to geeks
said at this point: Without DEVO, the musical
and nerds and frustrated youths across all social
chain reaction between New Wave, Art Rock,
strata. DEVO quickly built a massive following
all the way into Punk Rock in the U.S. would
among members of the counter culture move-
have taken a radically different course. Devo was
ment, as well as surfers and skateboarders, as the
founded in 1972 by art students Mark Mothers-
sound of the band oscillated between New Wave
baugh, Jerry Casale (bass), and Bob Lewis (guitar)
and Punk, and later Synthpop. The 1980 DEVO
at Kent State University in Ohio.
music video for the song »Freedom of Choice«
The name of the band is derived from the theory
features skateboard icons such as Stacy Peralta
DE SIGN E R IN T E R V IE W
»Akronit e« Designed as Mothersbaugh’s personal frame, the »Akronite« features rectangular lenses in a shape reminiscent of classic wayfarer models. The name pays tribute to Mark’s birthplace; the town of Akron, Ohio.
and Tony Alva accompanied by lyrics cynically
frequently. »We met through a mutual friend
condemning the consumer craze of Reagan era
that was producing a children’s show called Yo
America. DEVO’s unique overall message left a
Gabba Gabba,« said Shane Baum. On the show,
deep impression on a young Shane Baum. »It was
Mothersbaugh appears as an artist teaching kids
awesome. Devo was so much more than a band,
how to paint at the studio – very close to real life,
it was moreover a brand,« said Baum.
if you will.
»The way they dress, the artwork on the record
Straight out the gate, creative sparks started fly-
covers, the lyrical content. It’s quite clever and
ing across the room when Baum and Mothers-
somewhat cynical, with a healthy sense of hu-
baugh exchanged ideas. »Our first meeting was
mor. So to work with somebody I have so much
fast and furious with many ideas and concepts,«
respect for is a great moment in my life and one
Shane Baum remembers. As part of DEVO’s
that I will always cherish.«
stage show, Mothersbaugh had already designed a number of curious, art-inspired pieces of eyewear
II. WATCH US WORK IT
with band mate Jerry Casale. Now that his own
Act of fate, or mere coincidence? Any way you
brand under his own name and according to his
slice it, the meeting between Baum and Mothers-
own vision was taking shape, Mothersbaugh
baugh proved somewhat inevitable in the cultur-
wanted to kick things up a few notches, which
al hotbed of Los Angeles, where the realms of art,
early on took the scope of ideation well beyond
music, and the entertainment industry intersect
the mere product level.
DE SIGN E R IN T E R V IE W
Shane Baum looks back at the creative process
III. FREEDOM OF CHOICE
with a smile: »Mark wanted to create a song for
Just one look at the M ot her sbaugh X B aum
every pair of glasses, which seemed like a great
E ye we ar Collection brings home the fact that
idea until I discussed how success could possibly
the two designers have used their »Freedom of
chain him to the music studio. That said, our first
Choice« wisely to create a unique, unmistakable
thirty frames that we launched at [L.A. bou-
look. »We continued to narrow it until we found
tique] »Fred Segal«, came with a one-of-a-kind
that through the metallic qualities of Beryllium
soundtrack that Mark created for each style.«
and custom silver-mirrored lenses cut to clas-
But at certain points in the process, some of the
sically inspired shapes, we achieved this look.«
creative moon shots had to face a harsh reality
Speaking of the shapes, versatility and wear-abil-
check. »Our meetings were intense brain storm-
ity were key design criteria, said Baum: »These
ing sessions with many ideas laid on the table. A
are three shapes that we believe will fit almost
song for every frame, two lenses of different col-
every face, all in Beryllium with silver mirrored
ors, frames made from vinyl records,« said Shane
lenses. The frames’ original shapes are cut from
Baum, adding: »Towards the end, we needed to
Beryllium and hand-finished in Italy.«
find focus. A singular vision. And create design
A material gleaming with a characteristic surface
attributes that make a frame instantly recogniz-
structure, Beryllium is a rare material choice in
able from across the room.«
the eyewear segment. But as the lightest weight metal of the alkaline earth metals group, Berylli-
DE SIGN E R IN T E R V IE W
um is six times stronger than steel and resistant
always been a bit of a cultural chameleon. I was
to tarnish and corrosion. Complementing the
really into skateboarding and punk rock when I
futuristic overall look, mirrored CR39-lenses
was younger. It was very important to me, at the
provide 100% UVA and UVB protection, and are
time, to wear the right leather jacket and question
resistant to most chemicals and extremely dura-
and defy authority.«
ble – because anyone listening to DEVO knows,
Overall, these types of experiences leave a lasting
the future can be bleak.
impression on someone’s life journey, and may
The collection is available through Baum’s dis-
provide the starting point for future joint proj-
tribution company, B aumvision , with offices in
ects, said Shane Baum: »All of these are like the
California and Austria, and at stores such as »Fred rings of a tree trunk. They are part who you are Segal« in Los Angeles, »Eye Society« in Costa
and serve as the foundation for new ideas, influ-
Mesa, and leading opticians worldwide with a
ences and inspiration. Combined, they help cre-
knack for that »special something.« Because what
ate a perspective that is unique to me or anybody
ultimately connects Baum and Mothersbaugh
that lives life for its many unique experiences.
on a fundamental level, is that, connected to the
And you know, nobody wants to die with a thin
same cultural currents, they both »get it.« Says
biography.«
Shane Baum: »I think you just have to have a passion for different subcultures and the associated design attributes that go along with them. I’ve
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BLUE s t ylin g JILL KRAMER a t 21AGENCY.DE m a ke -up SABRINA SCHEUER a t 21AGENCY.DE mo d els SIMONE a t COCAINEMODELS.COM, FLEMMING a t DOPAMINMODELS.COM d i gi a ssi ANDY K. & ALINA B. lo ca tionscout GOODFELLAS.T V p ro d uc tion & re touch H60OFFICE .COM
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REIZ »R 5 0 L I M I T E D S p e c i al E d it ion «
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p a n t s TIGER OF SWEDEN, ja c k e t BOSS, sh i r t CINQUE , sho e s LONDON OFFICE
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M AY B AC H »T h e E a rl I V«
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C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T
HAMBURG EYEWEAR BUURMEESTER COLLECTION
NORDISH BY NAT URE – MADE IN GERMAN Y
photos NIC FRECHEN
»E r i k van d e r F e cht e«
» V i nce nti u s Molle r Su n «
»A m a n d u s A b e n d roth S u n «
»Er i k va n d e r F e cht e «
C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T
»V i nce nti u s Molle r «
»C or neliu s Popp e «
In 2005, the city of Hamburg saw the launch of
clean lines, timeless elegance, and robust finishes
a new eyewear label blending the savoir vivre
as a tribute to five legendary majors of the city
of Northern Germany with the region’s typi-
of Hamburg from different eras in history: »Erik
cal understatement: Started by Dietmar Kleis,
van der Fechte«, »Vincentius Moller«, »Simon
Wolfgang Kampf, and Christian Eydam, H am -
von Utrecht«, »Cornelius Poppe« and »Amandus
burg
E ye we ar soon made a name for itself with
Abendroth«.While the five new models take a
puristic designs, high-grade materials, and clean
nostalgic look back in time, H amburg E ye we ar
overall finishes. No room for superfluous weight:
also has its eyes set firmly on the future. For the
As is the tradition up here among these rugged
collection’s official photo shoot, they hired local
seafaring folks – any unnecessary gimmicks are
photographer Nic Frechen, who captured the
simply thrown over board.
new models in a contrast of industrial backdrops
Ten years later the new »Buurmeester Kollekti-
with traditional eyewear craftsmanship. Cold
on« – named for the local slang word for »major«
iron clashes with soft wood as the zeitgeist be-
– ups the ante as a fully homegrown product
hind H amburg E ye we ar comes to life. Time for
line: design, development, manufacturing, and
a trip to Hamburg? We already have our tickets!
distribution are all 100% »Made in Germany«.
www.hamburg-eyewear.de
Entirely hand-crafted, the glasses are marked by
THE RE ASON WHY
LET THERE BE LIGHT! photo DET KEMPKE, a ssis t ant LUMEN, s t ylin g ANDREA KADLER , h air & m ake -up UDO FARNSCHLÄDER , mod el SOPHIE ALFERS a t LOUISA MODELS, re touch GLAMTOUCH
CHANEL »3219 «
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blou s e COS, n e c k l a c e MARNI, shor t s & sho e s CHANEL
»My ongoing love affair with lighting technology experts B r i e se L icht techn i k started about 20 years ago. I’ve been a devoted B r i e se fan ever since and collect their lighting products with devotion. Some folks have fancy cars, I have fancy light! Because compared to other manufacturers, B r i e se doesn’t just brighten up a room. They literally make light. Over the years, owners Jutta and Hans Werner Briese have become great friends of mine and at our recent yoga retreat, they told me about their new »Focus.2 115« light with a remote controlled electric focus. That really called for a test run! Using only one flash lamp, we ended up with a number of great images for E ye we ar M agazi ne after just one day of shooting. We decided to feature the jumping shot in this segment, since model Julia is not only well-lit by the powerful B r i e se light, but her motion is also perfectly frozen in space.« Det Kempke
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PARTNER /
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CL AUDIA SCHIFFER »B e r r y «
JIL SANDER »J 3 0 05 «
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photo a ssis t ant ALEX WÄTZEL s t ylin g WALE OYERINDE m ake -up ESTHER FOSTER , h a ir CRYSTAL pos t p roduc t ion DGTL-CRAFT mod els MILAN & ALLIE a t PHOTOGENICS LA
FACE À FACE »F a m e s 2«
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FACE À FACE »Ma sa i 2«
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ENTOUR AGE OF 7 » O x n a rd «
ENTOUR AGE OF 7 » O x n a rd «
VOGUE EYEWE AR »2 959 - S «
VOGUE EYEWE AR »2 971- S «
BURBERRY » 4193«
MARKUS T »M 2 . 6 4 4 «
MARKUS T »M 2 . 63 4 «
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ROBERT LA ROCHE »B a llyhoo «
RX ST YLES
OAKLEY RX
NEW ACTIV E PRESCRIP TION EY EW EAR F ROM CALIFORNIA photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
In 2015, O akle y is ramping up its commitment to »RX« styles with the goal of leading the way in »Active Prescription Eyewear«. True to the company ethos of being »Disruptive by Design,« O akle y is taking a different route than the rest of the market. Known as a leader in eyewear R&D, the California-based active lifestyle brand is injecting its new line of »RX« eyewear with proven O a kle y
technologies such as »O Matter« material. The three
models shown in this article feature straight stems in a zero-pressure, three-point fit, supported by no-slip grip with earsocks and nosepads crafted from Unobtainium, a rubber-like substance with excellent hold in contact with wearer’s skin. The new »RX« offering includes athleticoriented styles such as the Crosslink, next to fashionforward frames like the »Chamfer II«. Here’s a closer look at O akle y ’s next batch.
O a k l e y » Vol t a ge « in Spa ce Na v y & B l a c k I n k
O a k l e y »Crosslin k St r i ke « in G re y Smoke & F ros t
RX ST YLES
»Crosslink« The new »Strike« and »Pitch« styles inject new vigor into the »Crosslink« family, which served as the flagship style at the start of O ak le y ’s
»Active Prescription Eyewear
Category« in 2012. The »Strike« is among the most sports-oriented models in the new »RX« line-up. Each style comes with a second set of stems to customize color options.
»Volt a ge« The »Voltage« model dazzles with a unique combination of functionality, performance and style. Inspired by space, speed and electricity, the O akle y Voltage offers a distinctive look of industrial design with built-in optical technology that is unique to the company. The frames can be fitted with O akle y Prescription lenses in Single vision (+2.0 to -3.00) and Progressive (+2.0 to -3.00). Sleek!
»C h amf e r II« The »Chamfer II« brings athletic performance into street style. With sleek beveled edges and a distinctive square lens with a satin finish, the »Chamfer II« is ideal for everyday wear. Offering customization with interchangeable icons, this energetic style is available in O akle y Prescription lenses in Single vision (+2.0 to -3.00) and O a k l e y » C h a mf e r I I« in B l a ck , Pa v e m e nt & Brown s ton e
Progressive (+2.0 to -3.00).
GR A N DE DA M E
JOAN GRADY
MEET T HE WOMAN BEHIND EY EST Y LIST.COM
GR A N DE DA M E
Meet the Anna Wintour of the eyewear business. When she walks the floor at tradeshows, all leading eyewear brands gladly roll out their latest offerings for JOAN GRADY. We had the pleasure to meet the charming, well-traveled blogger – who describes herself as »ageless in mind and spirit« – during a business dinner in Cologne, where she laid down the story behind EYESTYLIST.COM.
Hi Joan, life’s hard, isn’t it?
eyewear and accessories segment of the fash-
Life offers many wonderful opportunities
ion business. When I moved to London, I met
and equally difficult challenges – both per-
Michael Wheeler, publisher of »Vision Now«
sonal and in business. The process in which
and joined as Fashion Editor.
you manage and navigate these stormy and unsettling seas – through your own personal journey – can define the individual you are and will become.
You founded your online magazine together with your partner Clodagh Norton. How come? In Paris, I worked as the Paris Correspondent
The archives of EYESTYLIST posts go back to January 2011. What did Joan Grady do before that?
with Clodagh at »20/20 Europe«. After the
Music has always been a life-long passion for
proposed to Clodagh that we consider a fine
me, and I trained as a classical pianist. Edu-
quality fashion magazine-type format on the
cated in the United States, however, I entered
Internet. Thus our mutual partnership was
the literature and journalism professions in
born and E ye s t ylis t created!
New York City, promoting fashion and special events, including prestigious tennis competitions. My early experience and writing for various publications introduced me to the
2008 global economic meltdown affecting many industries – including magazines – I
Clodagh lives and works in England, you’re based in Paris. What are the benefits of these two locations? This works out very well, as Clodagh is able to
GR A N DE DA M E
What kind of glasses do you prefer personalhand for Parisian exhibitions. However, we of- ly? cover events over there, and I’m able to be on ten visit shows together, whenever possible.
What would you say is the special something about EYESTYLIST?
Acetate has always been my favorite material, since I started wearing glasses as a teenager. However, Sven Götti encouraged me to try
Eyestylist features special editorial series,
something new – so now I’m also a fan of Tita-
including »Eyewear Enthusiasts«; »Eyewear
nium, and wear G öt t i , L i ndberg and A dr ian
Artisans and Architecture«; »Designers Off
M arwi tz , and my vintage acetates! I also have
Duty«, and we are currently running »Eyewear
a pair of stunning R olf wood frames, which
Canine Companions« – which is light-hearted
are very lightweight, and indicative of beauti-
and entertaining. Another new series will be
ful craftsmanship.
launched later this year – watch for it! Our focus is on independent creators, and designers,
Please give us 5 keywords that describe Joan Grady?
who are involved in the complete creative and
1/ Enthusiastic, 2/ Caring, 3/ Resourceful,
production process of the frame – from start to
4/ Resilient, 5/ Music and Animal Advocate.
finish. With the global reach enjoyed by E ye s t ylis t . com ,
we are able to communicate to a
world-wide audience the outstanding benefits – and availability – of exquisite handcrafted eyewear.
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www.paper-style.it
unique frame made 100% of paper
DARE TO BE DIFFERENT
Visit us at SILMO 25 - 28 SEPT. 2015 Hall 5a - N089
MODO
F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E
PAPER THIN SUN COLLECTION LIGH T – FLEXIBLE - COLORF UL photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
Are you watching closely? All glasses shown on
a unique feature, the »Paper Thin Collection« in-
these pages are just as light as the paper they’re
cludes 2.1 mm thick TR90 Ultra elastic polyami-
printed on, much like the rest of M odo ’s new
de ring inserts that add explosive pops of color
»Paper Thin Sun Collection«. Actually, a frame
while allowing for an easy V-groove lens applica-
from the »Paper Thin Collection« is even lighter
tion. The delicate interplay of Beta Titanium and
than a page in our magazine! New York-based
TR90 polyamide inserts creates a series of frames
eyewear label M odo has proven a sure hand in
offering light weight and flexibility in powerful
blending technical lightweight design with so-
interpretations of retro styles in a modern design
phisticated styles. In their offices on Broadway,
language.
sleek European design meets the Big Apple’s
M odo ’s proven HCD lens technology (High
urban sensibility. Next to eyewear for M odo ,
Chromatic Definition) creates less strain on the
the team behind founder Alessandro Lanaro also
eyes and provides a faster-reaction time. The
designs styles for labels such as E co , D erek L am ,
semi-flash mirror lenses are treated with two
J a son W u and 7 F or A ll M ank i nd . With offi-
coatings: an AR coating to prevent glare, as well
ces in New York, Milan, and Stockholm, M odo
as hydrophobic coating to reduce marks and dirt.
is not only a global company, but also assumes
When it comes to blending solid, time-honored
global responsibility with projects such as »Buy
retro designs with ultra-light futuristic materials,
a frame – give a frame,« or »The Cameroon Pro-
the M odo »Paper Thin Collection« is in a league
ject.« Weighing in at a mere 6.8 grams each, the
of its own. »The Paper Thin sun collection is for
eleven models in the innovative »Paper Thin Sun
the confident consumer transitioning from a
Collection« – also available as an »RX« collection
thick retro look to a lighter, more modern one,«
under the same name – are light enough to forget
says Giovanni Lo Faro, M odo ’s Managing Direc-
you’re even wearing them. The Beta Titanium
tor.
153 in the frame is 0.6 mm thick, and combines
www.modo.com
the lightness and strength of titanium with utmost flexibility for fitting the wearer’s head. As
F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E
»661 red« Rounded lenses lend a sense of vintage sophistication. Mirrored lens coatings ensure sun protection, while the titanium rims guarantee a durable construction.
»654 pur« Sophisticated and whimsical, framed with titanium in a rich purple colorway. Temples constructed from titanium make these both durable and fashionable.
F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E
»656 a q u a« These character-driven sunglasses are full of personality. Irresistibly thin titanium meets a durable titanium temple, which ensures both style and strength. These sunglasses are the ultimate in wearable fashion, with a sturdy double brow construction and excellent sun protection.
»657 blu« Classic, sophisticated and modern, these sunglasses combine timeless hues with modern design, and the ultimate in construction quality. Rectangular rims are surrounded by thin titanium rims, accented simply with a pronounced double bridge. This royal blue design delivers both effortless and classic style.
D E S I G N TA L K
PORSCHE DESIGN P’8678 AV IATOR ST Y LE ICON 2.0 photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
After almost 40 years, the classic aviator sunglasses from renowned PORSCHE DESIGN label received their first redesign: The official successor to the »P’8478« is the newly released P’8678, presented here in close-up shots supplemented by commentary from PORSCHE DESIGN CEO Dr. Christian Kurtzke. Get ready for take-off.
D E S I G N TA L K
D E S I G N TA L K
R ele a s ed i n 19 7 8 : »P’8 4 7 8 «
R ele a s e d i n 2 0 1 5 : » P ’ 8 6 78«
As the very first piece of eyewear ever released by
no mistake, this is no conventional licensing
P or sche D e sign , the »P’8478« proved a major
model: All products are still designed in-house at
milestone for the luxury and lifestyle brand – not
P or sche D e sign S tudio in Zell am See;
only because of its design, but also its innova-
a reflection of the great emphasis on a consis-
tive features. Fascinated with the unique shapes
tent brand presentation and design language.
of aviator sunglasses created for U.S. Air Force
Throughout the development process, P or sche
pilots, Alexander Porsche designed an iconic eye-
D e sign pays close attention to current trend,
wear shape that is one of the major success stories while injecting them with its own signature in eyewear design. With over 6 million pairs
brand DNA.
sold worldwide, the »P’8478« is one of the most
The »P’8678« offers a contemporary interpreta-
successful pieces of eyewear ever created. And
tion of its predecessor, the »P’8478« as a classic
throughout the years, the shape and technology
aviator style frame crafted from pure titanium.
of the »P’8478« remained unchanged since day
The unique lens shapes, as well as the character-
one. Until now …
istic nose bridge remain almost unaltered, while
This year, the newly released »P’8678« mod-
the groundbreaking lens changing mechanism
el marks a contemporary interpretation of the
received an upgrade from the P or sche D e sign
classic, based on the exact same P or sche D e sign
S tudio . The new quick-snap lock allows for even
DNA as its predecessor. The brand takes great
faster, comfortable changes of lenses – tested and
care in preserving its form language in the de-
proven during our E ye we ar photo shoot.
velopment of new models. For this reason, all
The overall finish is premium, true to the brand’s
P or sche D e sign eyewear has been produced and
tradition, the design timeless and iconic. Overall,
distributed by storied Munich-based company
the »P’8678« lends its wearers a cool, calculated,
R odens tock since 2003. But make
and somewhat secretive attitude.
D E S I G N TA L K
D E S I G N TA L K
Regarding the genesis of this updated style icon,
high demands on architecture and design.
E ye we ar collected the following five statements from P or sche D e sign CEO Dr. Christian
3. What is it about aviator shapes that attracts such a cult following?
Kurtzke.
It’s a really time-honored shape that experiences a revival every other year. Of course, this is also
1. What is the collaborative process behind developing a new collection between PORSCHE DESIGN and RODENSTOCK? We jointly elaborate on the focus and direction
due to the fact that this shape looks flattering on a large number of people.
4. What are some of the brand-specific features of the »P’8678«?
of the new collection. We pay attention to overall The P or sche D e sign »P’8678« is crafted from trends and also trending materials. After creating
high-grade and extremely light titanium,
some initial designs, we clarify the feasibility
equipped with lenses from scratch-resistant,
from a production standpoint with our partners
unbreakable polycarbonate with 100% UV pro-
at R odens tock , who then create the first pro-
tection. The interchangeable lens mechanism is
totypes. For us, the main focus lies with mak-
legendary. With a simple quick-snap release, the
ing sure that we develop our prototypes up to a
teardrop-shaped lenses can be exchanged in a
point where we have arrived at the perfect design
blink of an eye, thereby adjusting the glasses to
interpretation and highest level of comfort for
different lighting conditions.
the wearer. Only when that is achieved, we create 5. What distinguishes the »P’8678« from its the first computer-based models and implement
predecessor?
manufacturing.
The materials and functionality of the glasses
2. What are the main drivers for the way you remain the same, but we have performed a condesign sunglasses? temporary update on the frame shape and lock Two aspects are the main drivers behind our innovation: The passion for racing sports and our
mechanism in the lenses.
D E S I G N TA L K
IVKO GmbH | Germany | natural-eyewear@ivko.de | www.natural-eyewear.com | www.facebook.com/naturaleyewear
P O P
photos CHRISTIAN STEINHAUSEN s t yl in g SARAH KARSTEN h ai r & m ake - up PATRICIA HOOS mo d els CHARLOT TE KAISER a t MEGA & JAMIL ISSA a t MODELWERK
U P
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
»In gle wood «
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
»L a gu n a «
ENTOURAGE OF 7 What on earth is behind the flashy moniker »E n tourage O f 7«? A new Quentin Tarantino movie? No, that one’s actually going to be called Hateful Eight! Entourage’ was founded by industry insiders deciding to follow their intuition and dream of starting their own eyewear brand. And the place was perfect: Venice Beach in Los Angeles – a hotbed of diverse cultural influences. The label founded by head of design Jakob Talbo still draws inspiration from LA’s multicultural melting pot – but also way beyond. Because EOF7 sees itself as a brand reflecting the heritage of Los Angeles eyewear – but not resting here, rather carrying their signature styles into the whole wide world of eyewear. As a major international move, in 2013 E n tou -
O f 7 became a part of Denmark-based »Bellinger House«. True to the progressive international spirit, all eyeglasses are manufactured in Japan and Denmark from acetate, aluminum, and titanium in a mix of tradition and cutting edge technology. The resulting eyewear is at home on Venice Beach or the Sunset Strip just as much as in any metropolitan city around the world worn by stylish people. For perfect proof EOF7’s international street cred, have a look at this photo shoot by Christian Steinhausen. Discover the new frames named after Los Angeles neighborhoods from the beaches to the rugged streets, as high fashion meets California lifestyle for a whole new stunning look. rage
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
» C a t ali n a«
» Topan ga«
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
»L e n nox «
»Wa tts«
CO L L E C T I O N SH O OT
» Cre nsh a w«
188
AIRY
METAL
SO CBI RAI LK H U B RU
THE OP T ICIAN COMPET ITION
I I T R PA
It’s time for the second round of our #M yframe shot photo competition. While the first round in cooperation with Cazal was open to anyone, we’re now specifically asking opticians to post their best eyewear shots. And since collaborations always add a nice edge to any contest, we’ve secured another great partner who will throw in a major price: OPTI tradeshow will invite the winner (plus one fellow traveler) in January 2016 for an unforgettable trip to Munich. So get out from behind the store counter, grab your smartphone and get snapping images and uploading your »frame shots« to I ns tagram ! #MYFRAMESHOT IS ALWAYS OPEN! You want to post an image in #Myframeshot, but you’re not an optician? No problem! Whenever you’re uploading a cool eyewear photo to Instagram, we love it when you tag it with #Myframeshot #CITY and #LABEL. We’re creating a unique website for hosting all those great photos – www.myframeshot.com will go live in 2016. Stay tuned!
S O C I RAULBH R IU KB
WIN AN EXCLUSIVE OPTI TRAVEL PACKAGE
Here’s your chance to win flight tickets for two travelers to Munich* and four nights at a double-room during OPTI 2016. You will explore one of the world’s leading optical tradeshows to see the latest collections from premium international eyewear labels. And in your free time, you’ll get to experience the rich culture of one of Germany’s most beautiful cities. (* covers flight costs up to Euro 1,200)
THE OPTICIAN COMPETITION – Entry Rules
• Once you’ve shot your photo, there are two ways to enter:
The OPTICIAN COMPETITION is open to any optician with an eye for shooting great photos. Here’s how it works:
1. Via Instagram. Simply tag your image with #MYFRAMESHOT and #OPTI16 and also make sure to
• Grab your smartphone or camera, head out into the
mention your #CITY and the eyewear brand featured
street and shoot a photo of yourself, your employees, or your favorite customers. Make sure the person in
in your photo (#LABEL). 2. Via email. In case you don’t have an Instagram ac-
the picture is wearing glasses – because that’s what this
count, you can email us your shots at myframeshot@
competition is all about!
eyewear-magazine.com. Also make sure to include info
• It’s important to shoot the photo right out on the street,
on the location and the eyewear brand featured in the
preferably close to your store. We really want to see and feel the special charms of your city. And not to worry, we’re not expecting pro-quality shots here – the #MYFRAMESHOT is all about user-generated images.
shot. •
That’s it! We will choose the best image as the winner of the OPTI TRAVEL PACKAGE for two people.
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ØRGREEN » C h a rl e y «
ØRGREEN »W i non a «
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b i k i ni & s w i m s u it L A PERL A
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SISTER LOVE p ro d u c t ion MARINA FISCHER & PATRICK PL ATZDASCH, s t yli n g SASKIA HAMMEN a t SHINE-AGENTUR .DE , s t yli n g a ss i s t a n t PATRICK CHRISTOPH PENDIUK , h a i r & m a k e - u p DORIS MARKO, MICHAEL SALMEN, STEFANIE TAUSCH a t ARTISTGROUPMIER AU.COM, m o d e l s YASMIN, NATALIA , SIRI
HOFFMANN NATUR AL EYE WE AR »315«
HOFFMANN NATUR AL EYE WE AR »2227«
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vi n yl co a t & b i k i n i ST YLELOFT VINTAGE
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HOFFMANN NATUR AL EYE WE AR »2225«
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top ST YLELOFT VINTAGE
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LINDBERG »T 6 0 9 « c o rd e d b i k i n i ST YLELOFT VINTAGE , b ra c e l e t KENZO
LINDBERG » 6531« s w i m s u i t & k i m o no MELISSA ODABESH
LINDBERG »9813« l e a t h e r b i k i n i JULIA DIEHL , j e w e l r y SWAROWSKI
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ROLF SPEC TACLES » Dou bl e S i x 95« ROLF SPEC TACLES » S a loon « d re ss e s CHARMENA VINTAGE vi a ST YLELOFT, sho e s FERSENGOLD, je w e lr y
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PA P ER S T Y L E » E g a . 2« k i m o no R ABENS SALONER
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PA P ER S T Y L E » S a s 2« PA P ER S T Y L E » C iüf 3« l e a t h e r- b i k i n i & c a p e Y V Y
COLLEC TION CHECK
BY SA
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IBIZA CALLING s t yli n g & p ro d u c t ion MARTINA NELLES, h a i r & m a k e - u p GAYE HIET TE a t BIGOUDI w it h INGLOT, m o d e l CHIAR A BASCHET TI a t POP MODELS, s p e c i a l t h a n k s to FRITZI a t PHOTOMANIA
IC!BERLIN »ra po 2« sho r t s & b ra c e l e t NIKE , top TRIANGL , ja c k e t EL A , s w e a t b a n d AMERIC AN APPAREL , sho e s NIKE
COLLEC TION CHECK
IC! BERLIN »t re skow a ll e e « sk i r t SUPERTR ASH, b i k i n i TRIANGL , sh o e s ADIDAS, k n e e p a d s K2
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MODO » 657« b i k i n i STELL A MC C ARTNEY, ja c k e t TOPSHOP
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MODO » 658 « b i k i n i DUSKII, sk i r t LES GEOMETRIES
COLLEC TION CHECK
STR ADA DEL SOLE » 0 99 blu e « sho r t s LES GEOMETRIES, top ORLEBAR BROWN, sh o e s NIKE , h e a d p h o n e s FRENDS
COLLEC TION CHECK
STR ADA DEL SOLE » 0 6 8 g re e n « s w i m s u i t MELISSA ODABASH, c a p AMERIC AN APPAREL
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BL ACKFIN »BF 735« top ALEX ANDER WANG, t i g h t s & sh o e s NIKE , glo v e s ROECKL
Come and visit us at Silmo Hall 5A Stand F131 www.komono.com Deutschland Vertrieb: lake distribution GmbH I 83684 Tegernsee I - 08022-9392 661 - info@lakedistribution.com
COLLEC TION CHECK
ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR SOUL , LOV E & W HIT E HEAT s til l s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
COLLEC TION CHECK
Since its inception in 2006, the ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR brand has been a staple of the independent eyewear scene. Hailing from Austria’s Steiermark region, the label has made a name for itself with extravagant tradeshow presentations and style-savvy marketing initiatives. For a while, this may have garnered them a reputation among opticians of being »extravagant« or »flashy.« But that’s not entirely true, since ANDY WOLF also offers a broad collection of basic styles, all produced at their own manufacturing operation in Austria. Looking at the entire collection, the styles cover all parts of the spectrum and are as diverse as their individual buyers. But maybe this diversity has added to the confusion. In order to make things easier, the label run by Andreas Pirkheim, Wolfgang Scheurer, and Katharina Plattner will now clearly divide its offering into three collections: »Soul«, »Love«, And »White Heat«. For this Collection Check, we asked Andreas Pirkheim – the »Andy« in ANDY WOLF – for a guided tour of the new collections, their philosophies, and their respective target groups.
COLLEC TION CHECK
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Andy, until now you have marketed all your eyewear under the same ANDY WOLF brand logo. Why do you think that communicating the diversity of your eyewear styles under just one label has become a challenge?
es. But we really also offer a rather large portfolio of classic eyewear frames that fit well into any optician’s offering.
What’s the overall significance of classic models in your entire collection? They’re highly significant since we all know
First of all, I want to point out that we do not
that basic glasses in black or Havanna are
run any visible labels at all on our glasses. But
much easier to sell than pastel-colored cat
just like any other family, the A ndy W olf
eye shapes with glitter.
family consists of many different characters.
Which characters in the ANDY WOLF family created the most trouble with customers – the rather eccentric ones or the more classic ones?
Do certain styles sell better as sunglasses compared to RX glasses? Since our first collections initially consisted entirely of RX models, they’re still our main focus. We have really only been offering
The customers weren’t really troubled by any-
sunglasses for a few years, but are constantly
thing, but prospective new clients would
evolving in this segment.
often get the impression that A ndy W olf only designs flashy and extravagant sunglass-
Would you say that your extravagant glasses resonate more strongly with a female target
COLLEC TION CHECK
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u Th
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COLLEC TION CHECK
audience?
while providing a feeling of familiarity.
Yes, naturally. Although more and more male
»Love«: Our new design collection A ndy
customers are starting to buy and wear more
W olf , »Love« represents our passion for
extravagant eyewear.
striking eyewear designs and exciting color
So, you are now starting to divide your entire offering into three clearly segmented collections?
combinations. Our design studio in Hartberg has drawn inspiration from international fashion and design trends to create eyewear
Yes, we will from now offer the collections
for fashion aficionados, trendsetters, or simply
»Soul«, »Love«, and »White Heat«. We have
people looking to fall in love with their next
created exciting worlds for all three lines and
big eyewear discovery.
are looking forward to presenting them at SIL-
»White Heat«: Our edgy metallic frames col-
MO in Paris.
lection is designed and hand-made in Austria.
What’s the main improvement achieved by this new segmentation?
»White Heat« is the material state of metal while reaching peak temperatures during
We really want to make it easier for opti-
smithing, where it assumes a white glow.
cians and end customers that are looking for
The collection combines clean shapes and
something special in eyewear – whether it’s
puristic designs in contrasted color combi-
extravagant,
nations. Every frame features temples and
classic, or crafted from metal.
What are the main differentiators between the three lines?
the characteristic nose bridge crafted from acetate.
Despite the three separate lines, is there a feeling, and sensing of a person. It encompass- common denominator? »Soul«: The soul is the center of all thinking, es all emotions and thoughts, and over the
Yes, all of our frames are crafted with lots of
course of a lifetime, the soul builds an identity
love for detail at our own manufacturing site
based on all these experiences. That’s exact-
in Hartberg in the Steiermark region. Every
ly what »Soul« embodies for us here at A ndy
frame is subject to 90 production steps and
W olf – a classic collection with timeless
quality checks, before we ship them all over
eyewear shapes and chic colors that, much like
the world. Our sunglasses collections are lim-
the soul, complement the wearer’s personality
ited to 500 pieces for each colorway and style,
COLLEC TION CHECK
and starting with this new collection will feature lenses by Z eiss .
Are all these collections aimed at different sets of customers, or are there people who will wear a classic-looking RX frame and then pick up one of your more extravagant sunglasses?
Will each brand drive its own approach in terms of imagery and wording, and so on? Our goal lies in communicating these three collections separately, and there will also be separate advertising packages for each collection. »Love«: For the first »Love« campaign, we drew
Of course there are! We do not explicitly seg-
inspiration from the 1970s – a highly color-
ment our target groups. It might just happen
ful decade full of glamour and free love. The
that someone will need a rather official-look-
many different styles from that era are still
ing »Soul« frame for their job, while preferring
impacting the fashion world today, and proved
a pair of flashy »Love« sunglasses in their free
a perfect fit for our collection. The images
time. Or vice-versa, of course.
were shot in a paternoster elevator, which also
From a marketing angle, how will these three collections be communicated?
inspired our first line of POS materials and instore displays. Colorful graphic elements add
The glasses all feature logos of their respective
to the overall look and feel.
collections.
»Soul«: In creating the first set of imagery for
»Love«: The »Love« logo was created by an
our »Soul« collection, we looked deep into the
illustrator friend of ours. The hand-written
soul of A ndy W olf . So we took a trip to the
signage is very of-the-moment and really
seaside with some of our long-time friends,
modern – just what »Love« embodies for us.
supporters, and some of our campaign models
»Soul«: The »Soul« logo is really classic and
to let it all hang out and get some intimate
understated. It’s chic but not pushy, and
shots of our new glasses in a unique atmo-
thereby perfectly suited for a solidly grounded
sphere.
collection.
»White Heat«: The new White Heat« cam-
»White Heat«: The eyewear designs behind
paign really takes it back to the basics – clean
»White Heat« are new and marked by a clear
shapes and clean imagery. The shots resonate
imagery and design language, which is also
with a special atmosphere because of the use
why we chose a typeface with straight lines.
of mirrors.
COLLEC TION CHECK
dr »Ken
»Be
ick«
»Pow
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y«
Will those three collections also be sold at different opticians? Yes, of course.
Would you opposed to selling all three collections at the same optician?
the first sketches all the way to producing the first prototype took about a year. After all, we didn’t want just another standard store display. Our paternoster elevator is highly recognizable and really stands out from the
Ideally, we would love for an optician to
displays offered by our competitors. It really
feature our entire portfolio at the store. But
draws in the customers and invites them to
there will always be opticians who, based on
play around. While all glasses are in full view
their own customer base, will choose only
of the customer, they need to turn the handle
one of the three collections.
in order to be able to get a hold of them, which
Will you support these opticians with displays? Our latest in-store display is designed as a paternoster elevator for eyewear.
Where did you get the idea? Over the years, several customers have asked us why we’re not building our own A ndy W olf furniture. The process from creating
creates a sense of desire right on the sales floor.
Now that you have divided your offering, will this also led to selling more ANDY WOLF eyewear? That would be a wonderful side effect.
HALL 5A, B125 DI S TR I B U TED B Y GERMANY, AUSTRIA, SWITZERLAND - LAKE DISTRIBUTION - INFO@LA KEDISTRIBUTION.COM TURKEY - AYKA OPTIK - INFO@AYKAOPTIK.COM SPAIN, PORTUGAL - VISIONA - INFO@VISIONA.ES POLAND -VISION PERFEKT - VISIONPERFEKT@GMAIL.COM SOUTH KOREA - OFFICE W - INFO@OFFICEW.CO.KR SE ASIA - EYESTYLE - SALES@EYESTYLE.ASIA ALL OTHER TERRITORIES - HEAD OFFICE FOR AGENT DETAILS - INFO@AMEYEWEAR.COM
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BY
M A RC
US
SC HA EF ER
ANGLE OF ANGELS
s t ylin g STEPHAN KALLAUS h a ir & m a ke - up MICHAEL SALMEN u s i n g MAC COSMETICS, mod el CAROLIN a t TUNE MODELS
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ETNIA BARCELONA »Yokoh a m a « d re ss DIMITRI
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YO H J I YA M A M O T O »Y Y 50 0 4 « »Y Y 50 03« »Y Y 70 01«
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d re ss MUELLER & CONSORTEN
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YO H J I YA M A M O T O »Y Y 50 0 4 « l a t e x c oll a r DANNY DELUXE , v e s t REBEKK A RUÉTZ
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MIU MIU » S M U 0 6Q « ja c k e t MUELLER & CONSORTEN
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BY WP »B Y 1520 0 DA R « fa u x f u r ja c k e t MARCIANO GUESS
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ANDERNE »A e ropl a n e « f u r ja c k e t STRENESSE
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CLAIRE GOLDSMITH »SLI T S« l a t e x c oll a r DANNY DELUXE
Find out more online at www.opti.de/en
Save the date for opti 2016 now!
Eye to eye with the future, in touch with the latest trends: come to opti 2016 and make your way into an inspiring future! Save the date now and keep your finger on the pulse.
15. – 17.1. 2016 FAIRGROUND MESSE MÜNCHEN
SELECTION
TANGERINE
MEETS MEETS MEETS MEETS ME
Everybody knows that blue and orange are complementary colors on completely opposite ends of the color scale, yet so natural and at ease with one another. Seen in these amazing new frames, the powerful combo brings a new level of cool to summers in the city or by the beach. OAKLEY »F rog sk i n s« Orange lenses capture a large amount of blue rays, letting in more natural light. Contrasts are more vivid, edges more defined. Your look, much cooler!
IC! BERLIN »lu n d i « Reflective lenses are the huge sleeper trend of this summer. Once you’ve tried these ic ! B erli n numbers on, you’ll agree.
PA P ER S T Y L E »F e r 2« How about pairing orange lenses with frames created from compressed paper? Light on weight, heavy on style!
ANDY WOLF » E l e v a t ion « Sunny Side Up! These new A ndy W olf shades are the perfect travel companion for your next summer outing.
SELECTION
EETS MEETS MEETS MEETS MEETS
TRUE BLUE
OAKLEY »J a wb re a k e r« A healthy dose of style injected with proven O akle y performance technology, marked by stunning blue lenses.
IC! BERLIN » Ob s t a ll e e « This Smurf-blue model will draw tons of envious looks on the streets, and reflect them right back!.
PA P ER S T Y L E »F e r 2« Remember putting ink on paper at school? Now you can wear the colorway in a stylish, lightweight frame by Paperstyle.
ANDY WOLF » E l e v a t ion « Here’s a little-known fact: People in the 19th century believed that blue lenses supported good health. They also support great style, by the way.
S A P
L A L BA N A C
D O
PU
BY
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LO S
MYTH
s t ylin g DORA KETIKOGLOU a t TEAM AGENCY , h a ir & m a ke - up NATASA KERAMIDA a t TEAM AGENCY , p rod uc tion co ord i n a tor GEORGE STEVE PAVLOUDIS LARKHAM, a ssis t a nt JOHN PAVLOUDIS , mo d el GEORGINA a t TEAM AGENCY, s p e c ia l th a nks to PADRE JIANNIS, SHEPHERD CHRISTOS RAMBOTAS, FISHERMAN NIKOS
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d re ss ESSENTIEL ,
BL ACKFIN » L a d y E lliot« c a rd i g a n XCONCEPT, sho e s
EDDIE
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IM AGO ULT R A LIGHT »K a lli s to « top IOANNA KPORBEL A , sk i r t SAR AH L AWRENCE
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IM AGO ULT R A LIGHT » C olu m b i a « IM AGO ULT R A LIGHT »Wos tok 2 9 « sh i r t d re ss IMPERIAL , s c a r f MANGO
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BL ACKFIN »Woo d F ord « v e s t ANASTASIA DOSI, t- sh i r t BMB
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MUNICEYEWEAR » 8 56 - 8 « c a rd i g a n & sh o r t s IOANNA KOURBEL A
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B R O O K LY N S P E C T A C L E S »T h e T h i n k e r« ja c k e t SAR AH L AWR ANCE , d re ss IOANNA KOURBEL A , s a n d a l s MMG
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B R O O K LY N S P E C T A C L E S »T h e Wa n d e re r« d re ss MALENE BIRGER
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MUNICEYEWEAR » 877-1« MUNICEYEWEAR » 876 -1« b lo u s e XCONCEPT, sk i r t ANASTASIA DOSI, s c a r f & b e lt BMB, sh o e s PAOLITAS
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FLEYE »Ma r i n « b lo u s e & sh o r t s MALENE BIRGER
G R A N D O P E N I N G – 2 3 S E P T. 2 0 1 6
REINVENTING BUSINESS. 2 3 > 2 6 S E P T. 2 0 1 6 PARIS NORD VILLEPINTE
Conception : CARLIN
S I L M O PA R I S . C O M
R E TA I L P R O F I L E
SIX MILLION GLASSES T WO BROT HERS TAKE ON T HE EY EW EAR BUSINESS photos STEFAN DONGUS
R E TA I L P R O F I L E
In the German eyewear retail landscape, one particular store with an extravagant name has been turning heads over the past few years: SIX MILLION GLASSES. Behind the flashy moniker lies an innovative and efficient concept, created by two brothers: HAUKE and MARC OLIVER PETERS have been selling hand-picked eyewear from cool labels to Hamburg’s prime clientele since 2006. Today, the store – and the brothers – have become a fixed institution in the trending Schanzenviertel neighborhood and beyond. Most customers are greeted by name upon walking into Six Million, and during the photo shoot for this article, the Peters brothers just popped into the boutique next door to borrow some jackets. And since Hauke also travels as a sales rep, he gets the latest insights on the optical business straight from the source. Here’s their unique perspective in this issue’s Retail Profile.
R E TA I L P R O F I L E
Hauke, is the Schanze neighborhood in Hamburg still the »place to be«?
I really wanted to stay there after my degree. So I convinced my sister, who was already a fully
HAUKE: For sure. Despite ongoing gentrifica-
certified optician, to open up our first optical
tion all the other districts such as Wilhelms-
store in town: »Augenblick Optik«. And since
burg have not been able to attract a creative
making a living off half a store was not feasib-
scene. The Schanze remains the city’s creative
le, I opened a second store and went solo this
hotbed.
time: »Stil Plus Optic«, a small and upscale bou-
You earned your degree in Business Matique with a fashion angle right on Bremen’s nagement. Then you took the detour into the market square. optical trade. How come? Marc Oliver, you’re the younger brother. HAUKE: Initially my plan was to end up in Was it a natural choice for you to follow fathe media business, so I took two semesters mily tradition? in Cultural Sciences. But when I became a dad
MARC OLIVER: No. Right at the start, it wasn’t
at the young age of 23 in 1991, I decided to
clear at all that I would follow my older siblings
change into cultural management and took the
into the optical business. Right until finishing
Management in Trade program at Bremen Uni-
high school, I was totally focused on playing
versity of Applied Sciences, and completed my
tennis. But the bleak future prospects of beco-
diploma in 1996. On the side, I was working
ming a pro and the many failed tennis coach
for a promotions agency as the district manager
careers here in Germany made me think twice.
for G aulloise and L uck y S tr i ke .
After finishing school, I wanted to get some
And because my daughter was born in Bremen,
kind of practical training. Because our dad al-
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MARC OLIVER ABOUT HAUKE
loud emotional creative reliable, and a hell of a guy It’s super fun working with him.
HAUKE ABOUT MARC OLIVER
totally different than myself incredibly grounded down to earth a great guy with a great vibe I’m really proud to be his brother
the practical aspects of working as an optician.
What’s the best thing about working as an optician? And are there any downsides?
While working towards my certification as an
HAUKE: I really enjoy developing strategic
optician in Bremerhaven, I also spent three
business concepts and then selecting the per-
days per week working with Hauke and Bettina
fect location to open the perfect store with the
at their store, which have me the much-needed
optimal design and product line-up. For me
practical insights quite early on.
that’s always a great challenge and I particularly
When I turned 23, I moved away to Hamburg
enjoy working on the design and implementing
to study for a degree in Industrial Engineering.
it in cooperation with agencies.
But that career switch would have left a big
MARC OLIVER: I’m really intrigued by the
gap, since there was now a certified optician
diversity of all the tasks at hand. From sales to
without a store in the family. And that was a
the craftsmanship all the way to design and in-
straight no-no. Hauke had been dreaming of
terior decorations – it really covers all angles. I
opening a store in the Schanze neighborhood
don’t know if any other job provides this much
for years and I also saw great potential in the
diversity.
ready owned five stores, I had gotten a taste of
concept. So I went scouting locations around here. That’s how we ended up finding the former spaces of a Turkish butcher – and signed the lease within a matter of two hours. That
»Six Million Glasses« is one of the most progressive opticians in the entire country. But the Schanze location is not your family’s only retail store, right?
was back in 2006, and that’s how »Six Million
HAUKE: The Peters family has been selling
Glasses« started.
eyewear since 1996 at »Augenblick Optik« in
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Bremen, since 1999 at »Stil Plus Optik« in
MARC OLIVER: Relaxed, casual, and passiona-
Bremen, since 2006 at »Six Million Glasses«,
te.
and since 2010 at »Neonbox Optics« in Hamburg Ottensen. That should be plenty for now.
Do your stores share the some concept or do you switch it up depending on location?
Looking at your employees, they all seem to like it. Is there a system behind managing your employees? MARC OLIVER: The system is pretty much that everyone can be themselves – employees just
HAUKE: Every store follows its own concept
as much as customers. Here and there, a street
and offers a product selection suited to their
artist will walk into the store with harlequin
respective location and customer base. Every
clown shoes with bells on them. The Schanze
store has a different style of product presentati-
neighborhood encourages equality of all ethnic
on and brand selection.
backgrounds, genders, and age groups – and
Your store and you two as personalities really stand out in the broad mass of opticians. Were you certain that your concept would work right from the start, or were there doubts at some point? MARC OLIVER: We actually never had any doubts that it would work.
How would you describe the philosophy behind »Six Million Glasses«?
that’s exactly what we stand for.
Speaking of equality, how do you divide up tasks at the store? HAUKE: Our employees do the work, we chill and grill … preferably at the pool or the beach. That’s why we picked Hamburg.
Haha, speaking of the beach: What’s your share of sunglasses in the overall line-up? HAUKE: That’s around 50%.
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What’s your take on the future of prescription eyewear? Will customers migrate towards contact lenses or Lasik surgery?
MARC OLIVER: Purchase decisions tend to be made based on personal advice. Even professional stylists who come by the store to lease
MARC OLIVER: That might be true, but at some
eyewear for photo shoots – around ten per
point they will end up needing glasses anyway.
week – like to get our opinion.
I consider Lasik surgery and contact lenses as supplements to the eyewear market. Over the
Do you put an emphasis on close communications with your customers?
years, eyewear has also advanced from plain
HAUKE: We like to take them out for drinks.
medical device into a fashion statement. Which
No, seriously, we are planning to launch or
is exactly why customers come to us.
own fashion blog and only have an outdated
How would you describe your customer base? website at this point and around 900 Facebook MARC OLIVER: Our customers are a diverse fans. mixture from students, to managers, all the Your selection is rather eclectic. What are way to former senators. Most of all, we get peo- your favorite brands, and do you recommend ple involved in the arts and media, as well as those to customers? advertising. Most of them have a pretty liberal MARC OLIVER: Most definitely! R ei z , G ar attitude – they’re smart people. re t t L eight , D i ta – all companies that are inWhen it comes to selling to smart custodependent with minimal design and maximum mers, do they have a clear idea what they craftsmanship. We seek out labels who manuwant, or are they open towards individual facture under fair conditions with short supply counseling? chains, also including brands from Germany. In
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my opinion, R ei z is by far the most sustainable
has made me rather humble. As an indepen-
company on the market right now.
dent optician who gets the first taste of success
Hauke, you also work as a sales rep. Which labels do you work with and in which region?
right away, you tend to think that you’re god’s gift to the business who has all the answers,
HAUKE: In 2009, the guys behind R ei z asked
while others are just lame and in the dark.
me, if I wanted to cover the North of the
That’s actually not true; lots of colleagues out
country for them, and after long deliberations
there are doing lots of things really damn well.
I finally said yes. But that only became possible because my sister agreed to running our store
Where do you see the overall trend in the optical business?
by herself. Working in sales and several stores
HAUKE: There will always be the classic opti-
just wouldn’t have been possible. At the time,
cian in his apron, focused on his workshop and
R ei z was working with very few stores up here
technologies. But concept-based opticians are
in the North, so I needed a second label. Since
winning more and more market shares. On top
we were selling lots of P aul F rank back then,
of that, R ei z is aimed at a rather special custo-
my 41-year-old self put in an application with
mer base, since the brand story needs to be told
B aumvision and after some tenacious back and
with appropriate sales support.
forth got the green light via text message.
Have your experiences as a sales rep had an impact on your work as an optician – and vice versa? HAUKE: Absolutely. The experience as a rep
Is there ever a conflict of interest between your two jobs? HAUKE: That’s what I initially expected, but just the opposite was the case. Since I spend time serving customers at our store and do my
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best to keep inventory at a realistic levels, I can understand what my opticians need. They are
Is there room for experimentation when it comes to trying new labels?
all really fair and appreciate one another’s work.
MARC OLIVER: Early on we were surely among
And through all those years I only met one per-
the top three opticians in Germany when it
son who thought she was better than everyone
came to bringing in new brands, for instance
else. And that was in Berlin.
»Booth & Bruce« or »Goldsmith«. Nowadays
As a sales rep, you really know the needs from a brand perspective. What do brands want from their opticians? HAUKE: They want opticians to make a clear
we like to take our time, about one to two years.
Is there anything most brands tend to neglect in your opinion?
commitment to a brand’s portfolio and work
HAUKE: Positive customer service is often neg-
with it accordingly. That means cultivating the
lected. I’m not talking about pushy sales rep vi-
line-up is the main key to acceptable revenues.
sits, but as an optician I really like it when I get
Not an easy task with the multitude of brands out there. How do you select the brands for your optical store? MARC OLIVER: We really put an emphasis on great brand presentation, respectful and not
a quick heads-up, like: »How are things going? Do you need anything? Is everything working out with our brand?«
And what impresses you the most in the business?
too pushy employees, great craftsmanship and
HAUKE: When my colleagues, with whom I’ve
price/performance ratio for us, as well as our
worked as a sales rep and optician for many,
customers.
many years always keep their word, always
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keep it square and endure all the nonsense I tend to spew out on a regular basis.
Maybe they just blank it out … Anyways, in the fashion business, brands tend to come and go. What’s the recipe for an eyewear label to be fashion-oriented but at the same time enjoy longevity on the market? HAUKE: By walking the walk of sustainable customer retention.
Which labels are doing a great job at it in your opinion?
style, and price? MARC OLIVER: We certainly get these customers. Once a customer has made a particularly great experience with a certain label, they’ll buy a second or third pair of glasses from them. But that’s pretty much it in terms of loyalty since fashion-oriented customers are always looking to try out some other designs as well.
Is there a newcomer brand on your radar right now? HAUKE: Shhh … I can’t reveal to much at this
HAUKE: Only a select few, since the owners
point. But check our window display in about
and designers generally like to steer clear of the
three months, okay?
customer and leave it all to the distributors, instead of spending some time at the actual store to see how their products are being sold to end customers.
Do you notice any brand loyalty among your end customers? Meaning, do any customers specifically ask for certain labels at your store, or is it more about the individual fit,
Thanks a lot for the interview, guys!
RUBRIK
A ni t a Moth e r sb a u gh is ce r t ain ly not one for h i d i n g in the sh a dows , but s h e ca n pl a y shy whe n the ca m e ra s a re on he r ; li ke du r in g our photo s hoot for this issu e w i th h e r hu sban d Mark an d e y e w e a r d e s i g ne r S h an e B a u m . photo STEFAN DONGUS
SHANE BAUM X MARK MOTHERSBAUGH » F ra nce s ca «
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