ENGLISH GERMAN Nr. 23 – II / 2018 EUR 15,–
» G ra y l a n d « & » S i l v e rd a l e «
BLACKFIN
BLACKFIN » E s b j e rg «
pat. pend.
multi-purpose eyewear with interchangeable lenses
686 NUDE / 688 NUDE | MODO.COM
bartonperreira.com
faceaface-paris.com
@SALTOPTICS
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WELCOME
photo S T E FAN D O N G US “VERNISSAGE”
(pa ge 102- 108)
STAY WITH ME
SP ECT R # 23 – YOUR P ER SONAL R ELAT I ONSHIP C O NSU LTANT
Two is company, three’s a crowd. Human relationships account for many of the quintessential pleasures of our existence. Well, most of the time, at least. One thing we can all agree on is that humans are, by nature, social beings. So we decided to dedicate this, our 23rd issue of spectr, to the theme of Relationships. Families are the very definition of relationships that last a lifetime. So we made family ties the subject of two photo shoots, DNA TwoStroke in Cape Town and Time Is On Our Side on Ibiza. The first shoot highlights a set of twins, while the other chooses a father and son as the models showcasing the latest eyewear for the season. Speaking of the latest eyewear, a father23
BLACKFIN »Sil v e r ton«
EDITORIAL
BLACKFIN »Sil v e rd ale«
and-son team is also behind young LA-based brand MR. LEIGHT. Relationships extend far beyond family lines, of course, and some people in our lives can become as close as next to kin as constant sources of positivity and inspiration. A major example is the luminary team behind the design-driven BARTON PERREIRA brand, currently celebrating their tenth anniversary. For two more peas in a pod, look no further than designers Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad, who just teamed up with SILHOUETTE for their first collab eyewear collection. Our current age also embraces relationships that challenge social stereotypes. This is why we headed to New York City for our FACE À FACE Collection Shoot Ebony & Ivory to celebrate the beauty of black and white (depicted in, you guessed it, perfect harmony). Our Diversity Shoot breaks down generational barriers to prove that age is just a number and youth, it’s a state of being! Relationships also loom large over our film project Facing North that moves in mysterious ways. After all, the human condition is complex, and connecting people will only kick the complexity into high gear. These subtle nuances feature prominently in our BLACKFIN Collection Shoot Vernissage and at the focus of the shoot Obey! I Do. With that said, please consider this issue of our fashion eyewear magazine as your personal relationship guide. After all, eyewear is all about seeing the world through different eyes, why not through the eyes of someone else? Different perspectives make the world go round and are the key to healthy relationships. For plenty of perspective, and plenty of eyewear to keep you company in 2018, you’ve come to the right place. We’re glad you’re here! Please enjoy the read. SD
CONTENT
34
36
P O W D E R German & H E AT 3D Engineering
TA V AT A Motorbike Icon K A F E E Goes Eyewear
40
T I M E I S With Sabine Liewald O N O U R S I D E On Ibiza
53
FA C I N G A Visual Journey through N O R T H Space and Time
70
C A Z A L Return Of 0 0 2 A Classic
57
68
M R . Californian Eyewear L E I G H T Sophistication
94
E C O The Good Brand
72
U R B A N With Edisonga C O L L I D E In Cape Town
A K I Curated Shopping – S AY S by Stefan Dongus
84
D N A With Patrick Schwalb T W O - S T R O K E In Cape Town
96
1 0 Quality Out E Y E V A N Of The Box
98
F R O M C O P P E R Theme Shoot With T O G O L D Thin Metal Frames
110
L O O K G O O D Out Of A A N D S U R V I V E Model ’s Life
114
D I V E R S I T Y With Angelika Buettner In New York
102
V E R I N S S A G E BL ACK F IN – Italian Artwork Exhibited
126
L U N C H With Ava P ivot B R E A K In Berlin
002
CONTENT
142
K A L E O S The Power C H R O M AT I C S Of Color
136
140
P E R R E T S C H A A D X Collab Of S I L H O U E T T E The Issue
B L A C Lightweight Carbon – Heavyweight Design
144
152
E B O N Y & FACE À FACE Collection Shoot I V O R Y In New York
O B E Y ! With Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter I D O In Munich
162
172
I N D E P E N D E N C E – A Philosophical Consideration With I N D E P E N D E N C E COPENH AGEN SPECS IN BER L IN
174
A N D Y W O L F Iconic Nosebridge W H I T E H E AT in Silent Restraint
178
S A M E S A M E Pablo La Rosa B U T D I F F E R E N T from IC! BER L IN
200
T H E With Stephan Ziehen C L O S E R In Berlin
176
F O R M E N ST R EL LSON O N LY Eyewear
182
G A M E With Stefan Dongus O F C L O N E S In Cologne
E Y E W E A R Raff le With F L AT R AT E 8 Stunning Sunglasses
202
B A R T O N P E R R E I R A 10 Years – 10 Glasses – T U R N S T E N 10 Questions
211
S L P I T With Bela Raba O N C Y P R U S On Cyprus
LINDBERG
MASTHEAD
»8415«
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Stefan Dongus dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817
photo BE L A R A B A
L AYOUT
“SPL I T ON C Y P R US “ (p a ge 211 - 2 2 2 )
Caro Ross ross@spectr-magazine.com
EDITORIAL STAFF
Jana Ludwig press@spectr-magazine.com Dirk Vogel vogel@spectr-magazine.com
PROOFRE ADING Insa Muth Peter Ashford Franca Rainer
TR ANSL ATION Dirk Vogel
ONLINE EDITOR
Franca Rainer online@spectr-magazine.com
PHOTOGR APHERS
Angelika Buettner Eda Calisti Stefan Dongus Edisonga Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter Sabine Liewald Ava Pivot Bela Raba Raphael Schmitz Patrick Schwalb Thomas Wiuf Schwartz Stephan Ziehen
PUBLISHER
Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestraße 20-22 D-50672 Cologne t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com www.facebook.com/spectrmagazine
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DISTRIBUTION
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co v e r photos ST E FA N DO NG U S a ss i s t a nts C A R O R O SS & FR IE DE R IK E C O E N EN s t yli n g FA B IA NA VA R DA R O h a i r & m a ke -up A LA NA H O LME S & ST E FA N IE S CHN EID ER re touch ST E PH A NIE W E NC E K mo d el s SO NJA a t SPIN MO DE L MA NA G E ME NT, FIN N a t MEGA MOD ELS & VALERIA a t MUGA MOD ELS g l a ss e s B LA C K FIN
This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.
L A B E L U P D AT E
MR. LEIGHT
MR. LEIGHT
»Dohe ny SL«
»R unyon SL«
»G e tt y S«
»Mar mont S«
Late last year, California label GLCO announced the launch of a new eyewear brand: MR. LEIGHT combines the long-time design expertise of Larry Leight with that of his successful son, Garrett. Larry has more than proven his penchant for stylish eyewear by founding Oliver Peoples, while Garry followed in his footsteps at a young age by starting GARRETT LEIGHT CALIFORNIA OPTICAL (GLCO). After weighing the decision, his father recently joined the company. And as if that was not enough material for the makings of a bona fide eyewear dynasty, the two have now created MR. LEIGHT as a platform for bringing their vision to the premium segment. Find out more in our spectr interview with Mr. Leight junior and senior.
s tills RAPHAE L S C HM I T Z
mr. leight exudes a quiet luxury. For example, the iconic shapes
such as the aviator and the cat eye are elevated with precious
Since our last conversation, you have officially launched the mr. leight
metals, titanium detailing, and pearl nose pads. The colors,
brand. How do you feel about your new father and son project so far?
shapes, sizes, and fits are all deeply considered, and designed for a
garrett leight: It’s been an unbelievable experience so far. It
discerning customer that wants only the best.
seems like it was years in the making and really a labor of love for us both. To get such an amazing response from our partners
Are there also differences in terms of the materials and manufacturing processes behind mr. leight ?
globally feels incredible and looking down the pipeline, there are
larry leight: Every mr. leight frame is handmade and finished
only more exciting things to come.
in Japan with factories that have worked with me for over 30 years
How many collections have you released so far?
since back when I started Oliver Peoples. Craftsmanship is, and
larry leight: So far, we have released our debut Spring 2018
has always been, incredibly important to me. Using these artisan
collection that was divided into two parts. Next, we have a small
factories makes a huge difference in what we are able to achieve
capsule for Summer, and Fall 2019 will mark another substantial
with the end result.
Who is your target demographic for mr. leight designs?
release.
Stylistically speaking, what differentiates mr. leight from glco?
larry leight: The mr. leight customer has a strong, elevated
garrett leight: Both brands have a classic sensibility, but
sense of style. They appreciate quality and details. I’ve always 32
L A B E L U P D AT E
MR. LEIGHT »I v y C«
C A LI F O R N I A N
»Mar mont C«
E Y E W E A R S O P H I S T I C AT I O N
»Mar mont C«
»R unyon C«
designed for a confident man and woman. This is the type of
larry leight: We want to make sure that every style is created
individual who looks for something different from all the other
with exactly the vision we had in mind from the initial design for
branded things out on the market, while still maintaining a luxe
each frame. We focus on having the best quality and craftsmanship
quality. They like the discoverability factor – a brand that not
at all times. The selection of materials, the colors, the way a frame
everyone has or knows.
fits on the face, even the packaging – every detail is considered and
You have set the ambitious goal of manufacturing in the United States.
equally as important as the next.
What is your long-term vision for your label mr. leight ?
What is the status of your manufacturing set-up? garrett leight: Right now, we are working with our original
larry leight: We see the mr. leight brand continuing to grow
Japanese factories for mr. leight and our plan is to continue that.
and evolve. We would like to gain brand loyalty globally within
Manufacturing glco in the US has always been a dream for me
the right group of customers – the people we have in mind when
that I am hoping I will be able to conquer down the road. Right
we design a frame. Recently, Meryl Streep wore our new optical
now, with launching a new brand this year, my team and I are
frame at the premiere of her new movie. I would love to see more
working nonstop to make sure we are as successful as possible.
iconic and stylish people who I admire and respect wear the
Once we settle in perhaps I can turn my attention back to this goal.
brand!
What other aspects are important to you when it comes to producing your products?
www.mrleight.com 33
CAPSULE COLLECTION
TAVAT – KAFEE CAPSULE COLLECTION
Hinge-screw with X-design – a tribtute to the Café Racer headlights.
s tills RAP HAE L S C HM I T Z
week to create a design for a new tavat eyewear frame. The design was to blend simplicity with functionality, nostalgia with modernity.
What happens when an iconic design aesthetic with a cult following
The designer who nailed this task is Miguel Harry, whose sunglasses
meets modern eyewear design? Potentially something next-level, as
design was inspired by the legendary Café Racers from the 1960s.
illustrated by the tavat Kafee Capsule Collection.
As a quick refresher, Café Racers are custom motorbikes stripped down and modified to the maximum. True to the motto: Less is
Here’s how it happened: In 2016, tavat designer Norman Schureman, also a professor at the ArtCenter College of Design in
more. Every superficial part gets eliminated in the process, those that
California, approached his students with an assignment: They had one
remain must serve a clear purpose. The name of the movement is
34
CAPSULE COLLECTION
A MO TO R B I K E ICON G O E S EYEW EA R
TAVAT »K a f ee R a ce r«
derived from the legendary Ace Café in London, a hotbed for young
on the temple screws gives a nod to the x-shaped tape jobs added to
motorbike aficionados in the 1960s. For these youths, their motor-
motorbike headlights. The shapes of the lenses are inspired by vintage
bikes were not only a means of transportation, but subcultural
gas tanks. The result of this exercise in functional minimalism lives
signifiers and symbols of rebellion against stagnant social norms.
up to the Café Racer aesthetic: Purist sunglasses that embody the
Their Café Racers provided a sense of community and created an
spirit of rebellion and timeless minimalism. In the bigger picture, the Kafee Collection also fits effortlessly into the technical tavat portfolio,
enduring style of motorbike customization.
blending form and function with styles for miles.
Miguel Harry successfully transferred the ethos behind these
www.tavat-eyewear.com
pared-down motorbikes into eyewear design. For instance, the X 35
L A B E L U P D AT E
POWDER & HEAT
G ER M A N 3 D EN G I N EER I N G
photos RAP HAEL S CHMIT Z
P O W D E R & H E AT »T he W r it e r« & »T he Di va«
Last year, we already provided a first look at innovative trendsetters POWDER & HEAT and their luxury eyewear frames printed from nylon. Their advanced process allows for the first-ever multicolored textures to be implemented into 3D-printed frames with upscale surface finishes and strong colors. The winners of several high-profile design awards have since been shaking up the eyewear industry with their “Color Up Your Life” product offering. High time for a Label Update with the two founders of POWDER & HEAT, Georg Vollmer and Manuel Breit. 36
L A B E L U P D AT E
Hello Manuel, hello Georg! Much has happened since we first showcased
shapes are also part of the overall vision for powder & heat,
your brand in 2017. What has the response been like?
always with the overall goal to get the most out of the material
manuel breit: After developing the technology for one year, we
and manufacturing process. The sportive look and lightness of
became the first eyewear manufacturer to bring multi-colored
our frames – also supplemented by optical qualities – are equally
3D-printed models to market. Ever since we started making
important to me. Ultimately, that’s what makes our products
3D-printed frames, our idea had always been to push the techno-
must-have items for end consumers.
logy further ahead. The material has gained solid traction in the
And technically speaking, what differentiates your method from other
industry for a while now due to its special properties, and is also
3D-printed frames?
increasingly adopted by customers. But the possibilities are quite
manuel breit: Our 3D-printer is of course the heart of our pro-
enormous and we can hardly wait to see what the future brings.
duction process, but keep in mind that our frames do not emerge
Would you say that 3D-printing reaches a broader audience today?
from the printer as a finished product. The printer is more like a
georg vollmer: Definitely yes. It’s no longer just customers with
tool, similar to a milling machine in acetate manufacturing. Once
a technical interest that gravitate towards the innovative mate-
all data has been sent to the printer, the product is constructed
rial. Opticians have also understood the material’s advantages at
layer-by-layer and at the end of the process, it arrives surrounded
this point. Additionally, we are getting a great response with our
by a white block of powder. Afterwards we subject the frames to a
options for customization, combined with sustainable manufac-
multitude of sanding and cleaning processes. Plus there are a num-
turing in Germany, also in small production runs.
ber of manual work steps to make the frames what they ultimately
Please describe the advantages of the 3D-printing process.
become. Not to forget our proprietary coloring method, during
manuel breit: One of the key advantages lies in being able to offer a
great amount of individualization on the production side. What’s
which colors coat the white raw block with beautiful textures. What are the creative opportunities unlocked by this method?
more, we are able to manufacture in a highly sustainable manner
georg vollmer: We are quite free in manufacturing our models.
and with fair wages here in Germany, while also working with re-
Not just in terms of form language, which of course interests me
gional suppliers. And customers can instantly feel the light weight
the most as a designer, but also in our processes themselves. The
of our glasses. Compared to acetate frames, we achieve 30 percent
printer does not care whether a process requires making the same
weight savings.
shape one hundred times over, or whether it’s printing a hundred
georg vollmer: Basically, it’s all about the incredible material
different models at various sizes. This allows us to tailor our pro-
properties that make 3D-printing a natural fit for eyewear
cess towards offering one-of-a-kind production.
production. The basic material is polyamide, meaning nylon. It’s
manuel breit: At the end of the day, it’s quite a logistical
extremely skin-friendly, also suited for wearers with allergies,
challenge, but it also allows us to produce quite sustainably.
and highly robust at the same time. It also eliminates problems
Our inventory levels are really manageable and we only manu-
with frames warping over time or becoming brittle. The material’s
facture to cover demand, which also benefits the environment. Does the process offer additional advantages?
natural flexibility makes it harder for customers to destroy their
manuel breit: We offer all models in various sizes. Or as we like
glasses. In 2017, you won both the German Design Award and Red Dot Design Award.
to call it, “made-to-measure eyewear”. For every single model we
A definite indicator that you range among the relevant players in 3D-printing. What exactly makes powder & heat stand out with their method?
produce different lens sizes and nose bridge fits. This allows us to cover most facial shapes and serve a large customer base. What kind of optician do you like working with?
georg vollmer: We are of course especially proud to have won
two of the most renowned design awards. Summing up what the
manuel breit: The majority of our opticians are owner-operated
jury said, it boils down to this: The definite and aesthetically actu-
stores who appreciate our quality. And they attract the kind of
alized form language and the advanced production process sepa-
customers who are ready to pay a bit extra for great quality. But
rate our products from the rest of the pack. Ultimately, an evolved
that doesn’t mean we are tied to a specific concept. We place more
design language is one of our main priorities and we invest a great
emphasis on building a long-term relationship with our custo-
amount of time into developing each new model. Before a frame
mers, from which both sides stand to benefit. Our experience
finally hits the market, we perform numerous product analyses,
clearly shows that the market is ready for 3D-printed eyewear.
prototype tests, and ergonomic studies.
That’s why the advantages should be made available to all end
What is the overall design aesthetic beyond individual models?
consumers – not just the ones living in the world’s hippest cities.
georg vollmer: As a designer, I place special emphasis on achie-
In how far does your concept involve opticians and their staff on a service
ving a balanced collection. There are some models that are just
level? manuel breit: We offer our customers a variety of sales concepts.
strong sellers. And every collection needs them. But extravagant 37
L A B E L U P D AT E
Ultimately, it’s up to the opticians to decide whether they would
to offer these opportunities.
like to sell products off the shelves in the traditional way, or use
Is it a specific customer who decides to wear 3D-printed glasses? And
our innovative scanning software for iPad to virtually fit customers
who specifically goes for a powder & heat model?
with our frames. In the end, we believe that opticians should not
georg vollmer: Until recently, the target audience was definitely
be confronted with selling frames any differently than acetate,
marked by an affinity towards the technology and innovation as-
just because they are 3D-printed. As long as they are aware and
pects of 3D-printing. But ever since we launched our new colorful
convinced of the advantages of polyamide frames, it’s a natural
textures, we noticed a significant shift in our audience, and also
process. And it ultimately leads with a happy customer leaving
managed to attract a large female following. Overall, our collection
the store with a great pair of glasses.
is modern, athletic and of course characterized by 3D-printing,
You offer customers quite a large selection with 24 models and nine
which creates its own specific surface texture and feel.
color- and twelve texture-combinations. Do your customers demand
Are there other materials besides nylon that could be interesting for 3D-
variety?
printing at some point?
georg vollmer: Actually, we are now close to 30 different com-
manuel breit: We are constantly driven by developing new
binations of colors and textures. Not every one of our customers
techniques and improving our products and processes. My tech-
will take advantage of this variety. But then again, each optician
nical background and years of experience in 3D-printing have
has different preferences, also according to their audience. We
been great assets along the way. The technology is rather young,
have garnered a great response for increasing our variety. In 2018,
comparatively, which constantly opens up new opportunities
things will get much more colorful and more exotic from a fashion
in our industry that we directly leverage into producing even
perspective. That’s a great fit for our texture process. We are able
better products.
to respond to color trends and also have the advantage of not
Speaking of new opportunities, do you have any upcoming innovations in
having to stockpile unsold sheets of material if we experiment
the pipeline?
with a structure that does not sell.
georg vollmer: Sure, after all one of the focal points of our
In the bigger picture, customers today increasingly demand indi-
business lies with spearheading new developments and staying on
vidualization in every aspect. Even when they buy a new coffee
the cutting edge of technology. But I would rather not share any
maker, they want to choose a color of their liking. So we are happy
details at this point. Things are bound to stay interesting and I can already reveal that we will not solely be selling polyamide frames forever. And how do you see the future of 3D-printing in the eyewear segment? Will it continue to gain ground? georg vollmer: Yes, definitely. In my opinion, we
are already at a point where 3D-printed polyamide frames have become a fundamental category in eyewear manufacturing next to acetate and metal frames. With that said, I do not believe that the optician of the future will have a 3D-printer that spits out finished frames. The process is much too complicated for that, and data processing too complex. Would powder & heat be interested in branching out into other categories? manuel breit: We have already received quite a num-
ber of requests from within our industry regarding our multi-colored finish. We are of course open to offering our expertise in other segments and pushing 3D-printing further ahead. But we are an eyewear company first and foremost, so our focus clearly rests with developing and manufacturing eyewear.
P O W D E R & H E AT
Thanks for the interview.
»T he B e ne fa c tor« & »T he L umin ar y« www.powder-heat.de 38
S A LT. »Al« -
p ants & pullov e r ZARA
BY SABINE LIEWALD conce pt & s t yl in g M A RT I N A N EL L ES p ro d uc t ion N O M O D R ÜC K ER a t C A R A M B A PRODU CT IONS mo d el s AAD VA N D E R L I N D E N & R E M C O VA N DER L INDEN a t KU LT MODEL S lo ca t ion IBIZ A 40
S A LT. »Harol d« -
s ui t PAU L S MIT H, s h ir t MICHAE L KORS
41
R O L F S P E C TA C L E S »Junior« -
s h ir t C O S
42
R O L F S P E C TA C L E S »Vol ant e« -
sh ir t Z A R A
43
KBL »D umbo« -
p a nt s S T R E L L S O N s hi r t W UN D E R W ER K
44
KBL »R i v e rd ale« -
p ants & sh ir t MICHAE L KORS
45
M E T R O P O L I TA N »8045« -
p a nt s & ja c ke t B E L S TA F F
46
M E T R O P O L I TA N »8046« -
p ants & pullov e r ZARA, sh ir t WUNDE R WE RK
47
Y O H J I YA M A M O T O »YY7023« -
pullov e r, s hi r t & p ants COS
48
Y O H J I YA M A M O T O »YY7022« -
su it S T R EL L S O N sh ir t W UN D ER W ER K shoe s PA UL S M I T H
49
BLAC »R ee f« -
s hi r t & p ants BAL LY
BLAC »Plu s98« -
s hi r t AME RICAN APPARE L jacke t Z ARA p ants STRE LLSON wa tch KAPTE N & SON
SPECTR IN MOTION Charismatic, elegant and undoubtedly handsome: A glimpse behind the scenes with the Dutch models – father Aad Van der Linden and his son Remco:
50
FACING NORTH
A VI SUAL JO URNE Y THRO UGH S PACE AND TI ME
A 12-Minute Tribute To 20 Outstanding Eyewear Brands THE PROJECT In cooperation with copenhagen specs 2018 tradeshow, we hosted an award for the best eyewear campaign visuals. More than 50 brands participated and sent in their current campaign images. With so many wonderful glasses shot in a beautiful manner, it was a hard job for our jury consisting of 15 renowned opticians and fashion photographers to select the 20 finalists. As a reward, each of the finalists was featured in a section of our 12-minute film FACING NORTH. 53
KINTO
» 4241«
GÖTTI
» D C S 01«
» E l ro y «
ESSEDUE
COBLENS
» S c h ra n k e «
BLACKFIN
» S i l v e rd a l e «
CHRISTOPHER CLOOS
» Pa l o m a «
»Va s h o n «
BARTON PERREIRA
ANY DI
» B AG M w i t h S u n c o v e r «
» M . 2«
ANNE ET VALENTIN
ANDY WOLF
»St iltenn«
SPECTR IN MOTION
SPECTR IN MOTION
THE STORY The film presents wonderful eyewear in 20 chapters in an intense mood. As our six actors travel through space and time, they always feel under surveillance and have to change their identities permanently. Who’s your friend? Who’s your enemy? You never know… In FACING NORTH, the viewer encounters a world reminiscent of a science-fiction agent novel. The atmospheric music and rich architectural backdrops shot by handheld and drone cameras emphasize the threatening mood, all the while delivering a silent and design-orien-
photos ST E FAN D ON G US a ssis t a nt C ARO ROS S & F R I E D E R I K E C O EN E N s t ylin g FABIAN A VAR D A R O h a ir & m a ke - up ALA N A H O L M ES , S T EFA N I E S C H N EIDER & FAT MA HOU RANI vid e o p os t p ro d uc t ion PAT R I C K FA S S mo d el s ISIS a t M OD E L M A N A G EM EN T, S O N J A a t S P IN MODEL MANAGEMENT, VALER IA a t M U GA M O D EL S , A L E X a t I Z A I O , F I N N a t MEGA MODEL S & MAIK a t J AY J AY MODEL S 54
SPECTR IN MOTION Watch the movie FACING NORTH in full length.
»Linné«
WOOD3N
» S U 10 0 0 6 «
WILLIAM MORRIS
» B -7«
WILLEMS
»2 9 01«
SILHOUETTE
S A LT.
»R esin«
ØRGREEN
» S t . E l m o’s F i re «
» D e c a d e s 193 0 ’s «
OLIVER GOLDSMITH
MOREL
» 6 0 032«
MONKEYGLASSES
»6546«
LINDBERG
» N o rd «
ted background for the showcased eyewear.
C U R AT E D S H O P P I N G
photos S T E FAN D O N G US photo a ss i s t a nt J A N A L UD W I G p rod uc t ion a ss i s t a nt F R I E D E R I K E C O EN E N d i g i t a l op e ra t i n g C A R O R O S S s t yl i n g M AS C HA M Ö L L E R a t N I N A K L E I N h a ir & m a ke - up KER S T I N H UE S G E S a t N I N A K L EIN pos t p ro d uc t ion S T EFA N K R A N EF EL D I M A G I N G & JA N WIS C HE RM ANN R E T O UC H I N G
Choices, choices, choices. Some of us like to postpone decisions about buying our next pair of glasses, overwhelmed by all the gorgeous models out there. That’s where stylists come in, and who’s better suited for the job than a licensed optician? After all, opticians keep a steady finger on the pulse of all new market releases, know their way around materials and technologies, and also fit satisfied customers of all types with matching glasses on a daily basis. For this exclusive photo showcase, we enlisted our optician friend Akram Husseini aka “Aki” from the town of Darmstadt in Germany. At his store klar augenoptik, an official partner of The Ger-
man Collective retailer network, Aki prides himself on hand-picking the coolest labels and freshest models. He also hand-picked this photo shoot as a
AKI SAYS
selection of his personal summer 2018 favorites.
T H E S U M MER 2018 FAVO R I T E S OF K L AR AU G ENOPT IK
Perhaps our Curated Shoot will help narrow
down choices among all the current models on the market. All the way down to the lucky number 13, listed below with original commentary from the
THIERRY LASRY
man himself. Plus, he is happy to serve more than
»Proba bly« -
one pair to indecisive customers at his store. Just in
s hi r t COS , p ants MAKIN J AN MA
case you can’t make up your mind...
Outlines like a piece of graffiti art. Not a brand-new idea, but never executed with such perfection. Boredom? Not here.
www.klar-augenoptik.de
59
C U R AT E D S H O P P I N G
OSCAR MAGNUSON »Ma ya« -
top AM E RI C A N A P PA R E L p a nt s J IL S A N D ER N AV Y ra i n coa t R ES E R V E D
OSCAR MAGNUSON »Ir is« -
There are plenty of hexagonal and octagonal shapes out there right now. But Oscar was one of the first and still makes them look wonderfully natural.
s hi r t S AMS OE & S AMSOE
Designing the perfect round frame at this size resembles the ultimate test of mastery in my book. This one is perfectly balanced and stands out from the usual “eggs”. High five to Oscar Magnuson!
68
TIME LAPSE
CAZAL 002
R ETU R N O F A CL AS S IC
photos T HOM AS WIU F S C H WA RT Z Spike Lee and Run DMC incorporated them into urban fashion. Today they are celebrated as true classics beyond the hip-hop community. Eyewear designs by Cari Zalloni garnered a cult following in the 1980s, and never stopped being hip. The designer’s label cazal created a signature look with expressive and bold designs; a look that can safely be regarded as timeless. The label owes much of its staying power to an uncompromising dedication to quality. Exclusive materials such as titanium and gold provide the extra spark in terms of flair and quality. Add to that precision engineering and numerous quality checks in a series of 70 production steps for every pair of cazals. The commitment to craftsmanship is alive and well today, as the design team brings back select cazal legends in authentic re-issues true to the last detail. The latest example is the return of the cazal »002« model: Boasting a massive crossbar, round lenses and bold temples in deep black, it strikes all the chords of a recognizable cazal stunner. But carefully appointed details such as gold embellishments and ultra-thin double hinges with airy openings next to the cazal logo create a delicate counterbalance. Another true classic is back, but only for a limited time: The cazal »002« is now available in a black and gold version in a limited
run at 999 pairs, and in a crystal gold variation at 499 pairs. The direct follow-up to last year’s re-release of the »001« embodies the same boldness, design mastery and attention to detail that spells cazal at every step of the way. www.cazal-eyewear.com
CAZAL »002« 70
Adventurer Aviator Mod. 8142 6257 and Titan Breeze Mod. 8694 3530 / © Silhouette / valid until 09. 2019
YOU´ LL NEVER WANT TO WEAR ANYTHING ELSE AGAIN. Incomparably light. Extraordinarily comfortable. Try it. Wear it. Love it. www.silhouette.com
A L L I E D M E TA L W O R K S BY BARTON PERREIRA »Tan a q uil« -
sk ir t L A N A M ÜL L ER, top J U L IA S EEMANN
BY EDISONGA s t yli n g AL E XA N D R A H EC K EL a t L I G A N O R D h a i r & m a ke -up S UA A D J E P P I E a t O N E L EAGU E mo d el s BRAND O N a t M Y F R I EN D N E D , D A B ERECHI & J ODIE a t BOS S MODEL S p ro d uc t ion & ca s t in g F I R S T P R O D UC T I O NS CAP E T OW N & TAMARA S ARIS CHW IL I lo ca t ion C AP E T O W N
72
A L L I E D M E TA L W O R K S BY BARTON PERREIRA »Tan a q uil« -
p ants & top V IV ET TA
73
EYEVAN 7285 »769« -
w ra p sk ir t C O L L E C T I V E S WAL L OW, top MOL L I
74
EYEVAN 7285 »156« -
s hi r t W OOD W OOD, s ki r t S ANDRO
75
MARKUS T »D3323« -
sh ir t S AN D RO, p a nt s N H U D O UN G
76
MARKUS T »T3367« -
ov e ralls V IV ET TA, top S A NDRO
77
MASUNAGA »Rh a psod y« -
sh ir t S A N D R O , p a nt s W OODW OOD
78
MASUNAGA »Alcor« -
jac ke t J UL I A S EEM A N N , sk ir t MS GM
79
GÖTTI »De voy« -
s hi r t 1 CARHART T, s hi r t 2 ARKET, p ants MSGM
80
GÖTTI »Da bbis« -
top MS GM, s ki r t MOL L I
81
COBLENS »Strahltr iebw e rk« -
sh i r t S AN D RO, p ant s C A R H A RT T
82
B Y P AT R I C K S C H W A L B d i g i t al supp or t M A I K D EN E C K E s t yli n g & conce pt J O C H EN P O H L M ANN h a i r & m a ke -up S T E P H A N S C H M I ED mo d el s N I N A M E I S E & J UL I A M EI S E p ro d uc t ion P R I N Z P R O D UC T I O N C AP E T OW N lo ca t ion C A P E T O W N
LINDBERG »8584« -
blou s e THE KOOPLE S s wi ms ui t COUNTRY ROAD
84
LINDBERG »8313« -
bi ki ni bu s tie r CALVIN KLE IN w e tsuit MODEL’S OWN
85
ETNIA BARCELONA »Pra ti« -
s p or t s s u i t R EEB O K b elt GO E T Z E
86
ETNIA BARCELONA »Hamps t e a d« -
jumpsu it T O P S H O P b i k in i top V E R S A C E f l ip -f lops H AVA I A N A S
87
BLACKFIN »B l a ck R ock« -
ja c ke t C O S s wi m p a nt s C A LV I N K L EI N
88
BLACKFIN »Suns e t R ee f« -
s wi ms uit MOSCHINO
89
BARTON PERREIRA »Mahin a« -
b om b e r ja c ke t W R A N G L ER b el t SAND R O s n e a ke r s A D I D A S
90
BARTON PERREIRA »E s pir it u« -
ho o d ie WRAN GL E R
91
INVU »T1801A« -
ho o d ie C OU N T RY ROA D b i kini p a nt s VE RS AC E
INVU »T1801B« -
dre ss ADIDAS
92
BRAND PROFILE
ECO
ECO »Mar s e ille«
T H E G OO D BRAND
»E d in burgh«
photo RAP HAE L S C HM I T Z LOOK GOOD, FEEL GOOD, DO GOOD! That’s the concept behind
manufacturing process – for instance via recyclable and bio-degradable
the label eco, which has been dedicated to sustainability and social
materials – the eco brand already takes an environmental approach
responsibility since 2009. With on-trend designs and natural ma-
to material sourcing. Based on biological materials, the models in the
terials, the brand makes an eco-chic fashion statement for all people
eco collection are crafted from 63% castor bean seed, while eco’s
who want to combine their fashionable looks with a positive impact
metal frames use 95% recycled metals. Aside from their eco-conscious production process, ECO also
on society and the environment. Whereas many manufacturers focus on sustainability in the post94
emphasizes social responsibility. As part of the One frame – One Tree
BRAND PROFILE
ECO »P i a v e« + »P i a v e Clip -on«
ECO »Har i« + »Har i Clip -on«
project, the brand plants one tree for each frame sold. In cooperation with the non-profit Trees for the Future, eco has already planted 1.5
med into sunnies via magnetic sun clip-ons for an innovative twist. Handing on the responsibility to its end consumers, the brand asks customers to reuse eco’s packaging and donate their unwanted
million trees in Cameroon, much to the benefit of local farmers. In terms of designs, the eco collection encompasses a full spec-
eyewear to people in need. When it comes to style, innovation, susta-
trum from delicate optical frames all the way to color-intensive sun-
inability and a vision for a better world, eco offers the full package. www.eco-optics.com
glasses. Many RX-models in the new collection can also be transfor95
C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T
10 EYEVAN
Q U A L I T Y O U T- O F T H E - B OX
photos MIKIYA TAKIMOT O
A beautiful product is always the sum of equally beautiful components. This philosophy has been guiding Japanese eyewear mainstays EYEVAN for years, and it continues with their new label 10 EYEVAN. Next to modern designs and upscale quality, their DNA is also marked by a strong sense of minimalism. That’s why each of their luxe eyewear frames consists of exactly ten carefully chosen individual parts. 96
C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T
The minimalistic principle also reflects in the brand name: 10 eyevan. The new label represents an understated elegance, true to eyevan tradition, blended with expert craftsmanship from traditional Japanese eyewear workshops. That way, eyevan is able to tap into a legacy marked by simple perfection and powerful design language. In order to showcase the ten individual parts in each 10 eyevan model in an authentic light,
the brand enlisted the talents of Japanese multimedia photographer Mikiya Takimoto. Born and raised near the city of Tokyo, Mikiya Takimoto started his career at the young age of 16. Today, he makes a living in the Japanese capital as a photo artist and filmmaker. The common denominator behind all his work is a timeless connection between past and present, captured in emotional images. For the 10 eyevan photo shoot, Takimoto chose natural landscapes that complement every single eyevan frame component. The resulting imagery is a symbiosis between impressive landscape photographs and delicately crafted eyewear design. The juxtaposition between these two worlds creates the impression that 10 eyevan is about much more than just eyewear. Perhaps an entire philosophy. Anyways, the campaign is a masterclass in artful composition with a strong focus on the individual perfection of each component. After all, a beautiful product is also always more than the sum of its parts. www.10eyevan.com 97
THEME SHOOT
FROM COPPER TO GOLD
photos E D A C ALIST I
T H IN M ETA L FRA M ES
As a masterclass in minimalist elegance, optical frames with extremely thin metal rims are having a moment right now.
Executed in understated designs and upscale materials, they flatter
S A LT.
any wearer’s natural facial features while making a trendy fashion
»He nr y«
statement. This season unfolds the formula in a gorgeous color
Classic and timeless titanium frame in a bold copper finish.
palette of copper, rosé, and gold hues. Here are some delicate beauties for Summer 2018.
TAVAT »Mylo« Perfect for summer adventures: Aviator style Made in Italy from luxe materials in matted gold.
M AT E R I K A »70520.47« Delicate titanium frame in a matted rosé gold colorway.
MASUNAGA »Urbanit e« Japanese craftsmanship in true perfection: The masunaga »Urbanite« makes a statement in vibrant copper.
KBL
NEUBAU
»O r sa y«
»Er win«
Titanium frame crafted from rosé gold with a KBL touch via rounded lenses and double bridge.
Flexible, durable, stylish: The neubau »Erwin« frame in delicate gold. 98
LESS COLLECTION BY BELLINGER
THEME SHOOT
COBLENS »Kotflügel«
SILHOUETTE
Extravagant and timeless vintage style on board with the rosé gold trend.
»5508« Robust but minimal metal frame with rounded lenses and double crossbar in trending rosé gold.
EYEVAN 7285 »147 « A smooth titanium frame blending an upscale finish with the lightness of gold.
LINDBERG »V ic tor i a« Extremely flexible, lightweight, and durable. Signature Lindberg quality meets rosé gold.
ECO »Helsinki« Understated metal frame in gold, crafted from 95 percent recycled materials.
GÖTTI »De xon« Purist, futuristic, and linear: An angular götti RX-frame crafted from lightweight titanium in a gold finish.
100
MAKING OF
IC! BERLIN
FA C E À FA C E
»Mi ke«
»Philo2«
-
-
s hi r t S EL ECT ED HOMMES
ju mp e r WE E K D AY
trou s e r s COS s hoe s NEW BAL ANCE
LOOK GOOD AND SURVIVE
OUT O F A M O D E L’S L I F E
Working as a photo model is widely considered one of the coolest jobs out there. It comes with an all-access pass to scenic locations across the globe, not to mention sizeable paychecks and an endless supply of flattering portraits. And while models mostly need to show up on time and look stunning, the rest of the crew on set has a much more stressful job, right? But then again, looking model-grade beautiful under any circumstances is not as easy as it sounds. A painful reminder of this fact arrived during a photo shoot on March 1, which really pushed the limits of what a model can endure. After all, that day would make history as the coldest day of the year in Germany, and the still in-progress airport Berlin–Brandenburg with its open arrivals plaza did not offer much by ways of protection from the biting Eastern winds. According to the radio, the temperature factoring
photos S T E FAN D ON G US a ssis t a nt F RIE D E RIK E C O EN E N s t ylin g FABIAN A VAR D A R O h a ir & m a ke - up S U T I D A mo d el s OLIVIA a t S P I N M O D EL S & LEO N a t K U LT M OD E LS 102
MAKING OF
KIRK&KIRK »C a d y« -
top & jacke t COS
ALIUM
in wind chill was close to –23 degrees that day. Making matters worse,
»R a y4«
the campaign mood for the transitions lenses photo shoot asked
-
for lofty summer fashions, not arctic expedition gear. But when the going gets tough, the tough get going – and true pro-
d re ss C OS
fessional models show what they are made of. Our two models Olivia and Leon not only mastered the challenge like shining stars, they also lived to tell the story. Modeling really is the coolest job on the planet, after all.
FA C E À FA C E »Stijl2« -
j a cke t & shir t S EL ECT ED HOMMES
jump e r C O S
104
COLLECTION SHOOT
BL AC KFIN – I TA L IA N A RTW O R K E X H I B I T E D BLACKFIN »Sil v e r ton« sh ir t BOSS 106
COLLECTION SHOOT
photos STE FAN D ON GU S a ssis t a nts C ARO ROSS & F R I ED E R I K E C O EN E N s t ylin g FABIAN A VARD AR O h air & m a ke - up AL AN A H O L M ES & S T E FA N I E S C H N EI DER re touch ST E P HAN IE WE N C EK mod els ISI S a t M OD E L M A N A G E M EN T, S O N J A a t S P I N MODEL MANAGEMENT, VA LERIA a t M U GA M OD E L S , A L E X a t I ZA I O , F I N N a t M EGA MODEL S & MAIK a t J AY J AY MODEL S
BLACKFIN »Sil v e rd ale« s hi r t GOE T Z E 107
COLLECTION SHOOT
BLACKFIN »G ra yl an d«
The Italian region of Agordino commands a long eyewear manufacturing tradition. The valley in the southern part of the Italian alps takes state-of-the-art craftsmanship to new heights, quite literally. Up in a workshop 600 meters above sea level, the blackfin brand has been manufacturing frames for 45 years by hand – always 108
COLLECTION SHOOT
BLACKFIN
BLACKFIN
»E sbje rg«
»Br i ghton«
s hi r t Y UL I A K J E L L S S O N
in touch with surrounding nature. At production sites around Taibon, time seems to pass more slowly. That’s also because there is so much love and detail in the manufacturing of titanium frames. The concept of Neomadeinitaly, pursued by blackfin’s President and CEO Nicola del Din, demands this level of care for the
final product. 109
COLLECTION SHOOT
BLACKFIN
BLACKFIN
»Har r is ville«
»S e al R ock«
top S TA N C E
s hi r t V L ADIMIR KA RALE E V
The most special facet about blackfin: Despite their small-town origins in the Southern Dolomite mountains, the brand’s output is anything but provincial. Their designs as well as frames and campaigns raise the bar for modern and international stylistics with a metropolitan flair. blackfin frequently collaborates with 110
COLLECTION SHOOT
BLACKFIN »Mar rows tone« s hi r t YU L IA KJ EL L S S ON
inspiring brands and showcases prescription frames and sunglasses in elaborate photo shoots and film productions, always with an eye for exclusive locations. As the latest example, the brand has created a new production named Spiritual Renaissance. It’s a textbook case of bridging the gap between traditional craftsman111
COLLECTION SHOOT
BLACKFIN »Sil v e rd ale« shi r t U .P.W.W., p ants W RANGL ER
ship and a strong fashion appeal mixed with recognizable brand DNA. That’s why we decided to feature blackfin on this issue’s cover as well as in this collection shoot. Making a point of the artistry involved in each frame, we showcase them like artworks. Welcome to our art gallery, where a tradition of craftsmanship meets contemporary excellence. www.blackfin.eu 112
MAKELLOS
MAKELLOS
»5046«
»1022«
-
-
bomb e r ja c ke t & p a nt s KE N N ET H C O L E
top & skir t CHIKIMIKI
s hi r t J . C RE W
MAKELLOS »1023« -
top AL L ERG IC p ants S ’ MM
BY ANGELIKA BUETTNER a ss i s t a nt RIC HA R D B A R A N YA I s t yli n g S ABIN E F E UI L L O L EY a t C R EAT I V E S PA CEART IS T S .COM h a i r D AM IAN M O N ZI L L O a t S C I S S O R A N D C O M B .COM m a ke - up E M I K O I Z UM I a t C R E AT I V E S PA C E A RT IS T S .COM mo d els LISA C R O S B Y & K A R EN W I L L I A M S a t ICONICF OCU S .COM, M ARGARITA a t Q M A N A G E M EN T, D A RY L & Z A CK a t NYMODEL S pos t p ro d uc t ion S T E P H A N I E W E N C E K loca t ion N E W Y O R K 114
MAKELLOS »1021« -
jacke t E LE NA R UDE NKO d e nim UNIQLO
MAKELLOS »5048« -
jacke t HERS CHEL s hi r t HABIT NYC p ants CON MOT O
115
ETNIA BARCELONA »Br in d isi« -
dre ss & h i gh boots ORE L BRODT
116
ETNIA BARCELONA »B r in d isi« -
d re ss U N IQL O X M A R I M EK K O
117
FLEYE »Je ssie« -
coa t EL E NA R UDE NKO
118
FLEYE »Ulr i kke« -
d re ss S’M M
FLEYE
b o ot s BRAN D B L A C K
»A ura« -
jacke t & skir t HAUS VON M bod ice HABIT NY C
FLEYE »Nuno« -
top & sk ir t O R EL BRODT sn e a ke r s B R A NDBL ACK
119
BLACKFIN
BLACKFIN
»Mar rows tone«
»Wal dpor t«
ja c ke t & sh ir t HABIT NYC
tre nchcoa t HA US VON M
-
-
120
BLACKFIN »B onit a B a y« -
top & skir t CHIKIMIKI s ne ake r s BRANDBLACK
121
STRELLSON »33014G R« -
jacke t & s hor ts UNIQLO s hi r t CON MOTO
122
STRELLSON »33010B R« -
bombe r jacke t CON MOTO s hi r t PA UL SMITH p ants NANAMICA s hoe s DR. MARTE NS
123
LESS FROM BELLINGER »203« -
d re ss C HIK IM I K I
LESS FROM BELLINGER »420« -
s ui t HABIT NY C s hi r t H&M
124
photo | www.dennisswiatkowski.com
ADRIAN MARWITZ »Stran ge r No. 43« -
top & s ki r t S LY0 1 0 , b ra INTIMISSIMI
126
ADRIAN MARWITZ »1919« -
p ants & bl a z e r MARCE LL VON BE RLIN
B Y AVA P I V O T m a ke -up A S T R I D S C H E P PA N a t L IGA NORDAGENCY h a ir F L O R I A N F E R I N O a t B A L L S AAL ART IS T S MANAGEMENT s t yl in g D AV O R J EL US I C a t T O M F OLWARKOW MANAGEMENT mod el s B E L L A O EL M A N N a t I CONIC MANAGEMENT & REBECCA a t IZAIO MANAGEMENT re touch K US H T R I M K UN US H E V CI loca t ion B ER L I N
127
LESS FROM BELLINGER »1832« -
d re ss M A R C EL L V O N B E R L I N ja c ke t A L L S A I N T S b o ot s TAM AR I S B Y M A R C E L O S T ERTA G
128
FHONE »South We s t« -
jumps ui t BA& S H
129
H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R
H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R
»1337«
»1255«
-
-
top S LY 0 1 0
top S LY0 1 0 , jacke t AL L S AINT S
130
131
KARMOIE »Tot e m C he s tnut« -
t re nchcoa t MARCEL L V ON BERL IN
132
KARMOIE »O r i gami Stor m« -
d re ss M A R C E L O S T ERTA G
133
MODO »4087« -
p a nt s A C N E , top MARCEL L V ON BERL IN, jacke t IV Y& OAK
134
COLLAB OF THE ISSUE
photos S T E FAN D ON G US
Austrian eyewear company SILHOUETTE joined forces with women’s fashion label PERRET SCHAAD for a new sunglasses collection premiered at Berlin Fashion Week. The collection showcases the signature stylistics of Berlin-based designers Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad. With a focus on versatility, elegance and originality, the duo put a new twist on the iconic SILHOUETTE model »Titan Minimal Art«. Released as a limited special edition under the title »Perret Schaad for Silhouette« the luxurious frames return in new glory. We learned the ins and outs of the collaboration while photographing the two designers in their studio in Berlin-Wedding. And also how their home town of choice has inspired their work, and what Tilda Swinton has to do with all of it.
PERRET SCHAAD
SIL H O UE T T E T I TA N MI N I MA L A R T GO E S C O U T UR E
Hello Tutia and Johanna, please tell us about perret schaad. What sets your label apart?
sketched a lot. And what brought the two of you together?
tutia: Our label is to a large part defined
johanna: We met during an internship at
by timeless, authentic designs that operate
fashion house Givenchy in Paris. And during
outside of current trends. At the same time,
an especially stressful period in the run-up to
we are a label based in Berlin and have been
Paris Fashion Week we learned how harmo-
playing a part in influencing, together with
niously we work together. After earning our
other great fashion labels, Berlin Fashion Week
degrees at Weissensee University we decided
since our inception.
to launch our own label perret schaad.
Which target audience are you aiming for with your
Despite your harmonious workflow, are there any
fashion designs? Who is the typical perret schaad
challenges operating a fashion label together? And
customer?
what do you appreciate about each other?
johanna: We do not have that one, specific
tutia: When two people are running a
muse but rather set out to design for women
fashion label together, communication is of
of all ages. Many of our customers are inde-
course key. But for us, the chance to work
pendent women with careers who appreciate
together is less of a challenge than one great
it when the fashion they wear accentuates
opportunity, because even in high-stress
their own personality.
periods we are able to support and motivate
What brought you into fashion design? tutia: Johanna grew up in an artistic family,
each other. And you can always get a second opinion.
which inspired her at a young age to go into
Speaking of opinion, what characterizes your signa-
fashion. For myself, it’s been a dream since
ture fashion style?
an early age to work in fashion. I would
johanna: Timeless elegance, high-quality
daydream of wonderful outfits and always
materials and a feminine, cool look that accen136
COLLAB OF THE ISSUE
137
COLLAB OF THE ISSUE
tuates the beauty of all women. What kinds of materials, colors and shapes play a major role in your design DNA? tutia: We love natural materials and like to implement silk, wool,
delicate cotton and linen. But in order to achieve interesting combinations with strong contrasts, we also like to combine these fabrics with technical and innovative textiles or materials we weave ourselves. Colors also play a major role for us. The right color can supplement a person’s natural complexion quite beautifully and create a radiant, natural look. Our tailoring is marked by clear lines, as well as intricate and innovative details in our cuts. Then again, sunglasses tend to behave quite differently from fabric. Was it difficult to inject your design DNA into a different medium? johanna: Our overall goal really was to create a statement piece that
can be worn with the entire perret schaad wardrobe. silhouette and perret schaad actually pursue a similar direction: Both companies aim to create products that combine wearability and comfort with one-of-a-kind beauty. Thanks to the amazing collaboration with silhouette, it was rather easy for us to lend our signature style to the medium of sunglasses. Did you run into any particular challenges designing eyewear? tutia: The largest challenge was to be able to understand how even
the slightest millimeter can entirely change the proportions, and thereby the comfort as well as overall impression of a frame. Aside from their similar approach, what else do you appreciate about silhouette? johanna: We love the unique way in which silhouette manu-
factures eyewear. We see silhouette as defined by high quality,
SILHOUETTE X PERRET SCHAAD
modern design. This is blended with an innovative construction that reflects in lightweight and flexible frames that are highly comfortable
»9910« in G loss y Te al
to wear. All this really made us like them right from the start. How exactly is the collaboration with silhouette structured? tutia: We like to work rather closely with our cooperation part-
ners and enjoy the opportunity to benefit from their experience and know-how. We communicated all of our designs directly to the design team at silhouette from the get-go. As the collaboration evolved, we developed all shapes and colors together. We also developed a special cut-out technique that lends an expressionistic quality to the frame as well as a special and modern aura. Your goal was to create sunglasses that matched your overall collection. Was there any precedent for this kind of frame? johanna: When it came to designing sunglasses, it was really
important to us to create something equally unique and stylish. We imagined the metropolitan city as well as the natural quality and complexity of beauty. All of our initial sketches were created on a specific face, namely that of Scottish and Oscar-winning actress Tilda
Young and handsome part I – Johanna Perret
Swinton. She embodies all these facets. What kinds of shapes and materials figure in the model and why? tutia: We are constantly searching for new inspirations and innova-
tive ideas. This frame does not have a classic rim, for instance from metal, but is completely rimless. We created the impression of a rim through a print that became possible through another process we developed. The edges of the lenses are imprinted in contrasting and 138
COLLAB OF THE ISSUE
harmonious colorways. There are four variations of the frame. So it was a pleasure to get to play with the subtle nuances between lens color, lens transparency, matted or shiny finishes as well as the colors of the prints and the temples. Are some elements of the sunglasses also reflected in your apparel collection? johanna: Our apparel represents an entirely different medium from
sunglasses, of course. But the color palettes complement one another quite well, since our latest collection also incorporates colors such as Bordeaux, a light green, a radiant blue and several shades of pink. Aside from the color combinations, which specific detail are you especially proud of? tutia: The sunglasses really owe their look to a combination of bold
colors and the modern, hexagonal shape of the lenses adorned with a cut-out. On top of that, we can say from experience that they look great on a wide variety of faces. That’s an especially proud achievement! While designing the sunglasses, did you also notice any similarities with fashion design? johanna: Before actually commencing to design a product, you need
to be clear about what you are trying to say with a product and who you are designing for. We find it most important to be able to experiment and create prototypes. And that equally applies to designing a piece of clothing or a pair of glasses. And where do you see the biggest differences between both worlds? tutia: In fashion design we work with a lot of drapery by
directly incorporating the final product, the fabric. When it comes to designing sunglasses, we tend to simulate the design with paper or virtually through software, only to create prototypes from glass and metal at a later point. We also found ways
»9910« in G re y
to improvise in this medium, for instance by simulating the lens print with nail polish. You also create designs for jewelry. What attracted you to go into accessories? johanna: Accessories are a great way to turn a good look into a
stunning look. A pair of sunglasses can lend a carefree, almost mysterious aura to any kind of outfit. Beyond accessories, what would be your dream collaboration with a brand from a different field? tutia: We have so many ideas floating around. We could really
see ourselves creating furniture fabric patterns with Kvadrat. Great company, amazing quality and great people. And at some point we would like to design a suitcase, since a great suitcase makes each journey that much more enjoyable! And to wrap things up, what pair of sunglasses will you be wearing on the streets this summer? johanna: This summer, I will be wearing the »Perret
Schaad
for Silhouette« with gray tinted glass and a Bordeaux-colored frame! Probably switching it up with a pair of vintage Versace shades that were believed to be lost. tutia: I will also be wearing the »Perret
Schaad for Silhouette«
in Bordeaux, since it’s a design that’s equally cool and elegant. Combined with my dark hair, this colorway of the frame really Young and handsome part II – Tutia Schaad
comes to life. 139
www.silhouette.com
BLAC T E C H TA L K
LIGH TWE IGHT H E AV YW E IGH T
BLAC »R e e f DE/C A«
From raw materials to final product – every single frame is one-of-a-kind.
140
T E C H TA L K
C A RBO N / DESI G N
BLAC »B l a c Plu s 98 B K«
photos RAPHAE L S C H M I T Z The world of Formula 1 racing was in an uproar in 1981, when McLaren Racing introduced the very first race car chassis from carbon, the MP4-1, at Silverstone. Aside from introducing a new material, the chassis was also crafted entirely from one piece, as opposed to the multiple components used in traditional aluminum constructions. The reward for this rebellion against pre-established conventions was an immediate quantum leap in terms of stability and performance that would revolutionize race car design as a whole. This historical landmark captured the imagination of eyewear designer Claus Bellinger, who came up with the idea of implementing carbon as an extremely lightweight and robust material in eyewear manufacturing. After years of perfecting the process, Claus Bellinger is now reaping the rewards. Bellinger House is known as the home of eyewear brands Bellinger and Entourage of 7 and also manufactures frames from lightweight carbon fibers under the blac label that offer outstanding weight savings and increased stability.
As another milestone for carbon, this also marks the first time that carbon is implemented – in entire frames at that – in the eyewear industry. One of the main factors behind blac’s success is that their carbon frames can be adapted to individual wearers. This is made possible by Claus Bellinger’s patented principle of a titanium core included inside the temples. The insert allows for bending the temples, which is impossible with pure-play carbon frames. Due to their unique raw carbon structure, every single handcrafted frame from Denmark is a true one-of-a-kind original. Aside from Formula 1 racing, blac also likes to draw inspirations from other segments in which carbon plays a fundamental role. Aside from carbon fibers, blac also implements titanium and aluminum in their frames’ front sections. The frames have garnered a positive response among men with an affinity towards technology and a love for high-quality materials. But blac also connects to female customers who appreciate the lightness
and streamlined shapes of their frames. Technical, innovative, cool, and light as a feather – plus hand-crafted in Denmark: Will carbon revolutionize eyewear like it did Formula 1?
Adjusts to individual wearers thanks to patented technology: Carbon temples with a titanium core.
www.blac.dk 141
COLLECTION CHECK
KALEOS »L edou x 4«
»F e rgu son 4«
»R a dle y 5«
»Pollitt«
KALEOS CHROMATICS
T H E P O W E R O F C O L O R
photos EDA CAL IS T I 3D ar ti s t S T EF F EN HÖRBRAND
142
COLLECTION CHECK
»Pollitt 4«
»B e cke tt 5«
»L un d«
shapes and lush colorways. kaleos eyehunters invites wearers on a journey inspired by the beauty of nature. Destinations include late summer sunsets on the beach, lush rainforests, and the neon
»Mur row 1«
lights of modern-day cities. As a perfect match for summer season, the collection’s colorways are on point with luscious shades of red and magenta as well as orange and blue. It’s already safe to say that kaleos eyehunters have once again cooked up a tasty eyewear collection that is bound to attract many hungry looks. Next to inspired colorways, the Chromatics collection is marked by delicate temples and colorintense acetate; thereby connecting the ultra-light new range to the recognizable design style established by kaleos eyehunters
The name says it all for kaleos eyehunters: Founded in 2013
over the last five years. Looking at the gorgeous colors of the Chromatics collection, we
in Barcelona, the label is all about hunting the city streets for curious eyeballs and jealous looks. As their bait, the design-driven
can almost taste the salt on our lips and hear the waves splashing on
label continues to reinvent fashionable eyewear every six months
a tropical beach at sunset. As the perfect backdrop for this rainbow
in collections that accentuate their wearers’ personalities at every
of colors, we have chosen to construct a set in the one color that en-
step of the way. From classic understatement to bold modern pieces
compasses all colors: white. And never mind that the background
with individual customization, their frame designs always live up
for our kaleos photo shoot is not exactly “real”, we called on our
to their reputation as true eye catchers.
resident 3D-artist to showcase the nature-inspired collection in
The new Chromatics collection continues the wild hunt: Creative director Claudia Brotons presents a kaleidoscope of colors in a collection spanning 15 sunglasses and RX-frames in rounded lens 143
front of a digital background for stunning results. Now, do you see something you like? www.kaleoseyehunters.com
COLLECTION SHOOT
FA C E À FA C E »Alium F it5«
FACE À FACE
EB ON Y & IVORY
144
COLLECTION SHOOT
FA C E À FA C E »More a2«
photos AVA P IV OT h ai r & m ake - up ANGEL A KAES ER a t CREAT IV E S PA CE ARTISTS, NE W Y ORK mod els CARL ENS S AINV IL & ES S DEA loca tion NEW YORK Creating a stunning photo shoot around an eyewear brand with an unmistakable and highly recognizable design language comes naturally. After all, the quality products can do much of the talking. But taking things to the next level, photographer Ava Pivot decided to make a strong play on familiar backdrops and polarizing contrasts. This created the formula for taking the models of the new face à face collection on a visual journey in the Big Apple. The French luxury label enjoys a reputation for artful designs, often featuring feminine lines, and frames with intense colorways. Which makes it even more interesting that Ava Pivot opted for black-and-white as the medium for her shoot, placing all emphasis on the frame contours. This effect is also complemented by the choice of models and liberal approach to clothing. And in order to take the French frames a bit out of their natural habitat, we staged the shoot in New York City. The result is an intense blend of ebony and ivory, with added spice from some of the hottest frames of the season. www.faceaface-paris.com
145
COLLECTION SHOOT
»E am e s2«
FA C E À FA C E »Typpo1« & »Ir vin2«
146
COLLECTION SHOOT
FA C E À FA C E »C h ance1«
147
COLLECTION SHOOT
FA C E À FA C E »R in g s2« & »Alium S2«
148
COLLECTION SHOOT
FA C E À FA C E »O w e ns2«
»Alium Y1« & »L e wit1«
149
COLLECTION SHOOT
FA C E À FA C E »C osmo2«
»Alium K5« & »Shiso1«
150
B Y S A C H A TA S S I L O H Ö C H S T E T T E R s t yl in g L O R A N D L A JOS h a ir & m a ke -up P HIL IP P L AW RENZ mod el O L G A D E M A R loca t ion M UN I C H
152
IC BERLIN »Z e phyr« orga n z a ju mpsuit MAXMARA
boots V INTAGE GUCCI g lo v e s DE MASK
belt P L E IN SUD
153
TAVAT »G l a c ie r« -
dre ss KOS TA S MURKUDIS l a t e x jumpsuit DE MASK boots V INTAGE GUCCI belt DARKNE SS ne ckl ace MAXMARA
154
TAVAT »Ha wk I I« l a t e x jumpsuit DE MASK
155
NEUBAU »S arah 3D« -
dre ss KARL L AGERF ELD s hoe s MARINA RINAL DI
156
NEUBAU »F elix 3D« -
dre ss COS g lov e s DEMAS K s hoe s ST YLIST’S OWN
157
IC BERLIN
IC BERLIN
»B a s eline«
»Alle y Oop«
ja c ke t T OP M AN
bombe r jacke t BEL STAFF
-
-
le a th e r p a nt s HIRON E PA R I S
top MARINA RINALDI
b o ot s BAL E N C IAGA
d e ni ms an d boots T O PSHOP glov e s ROECKL ch ai n ST YLIST’S OWN belt DS QU ARED
158
IC BERLIN »Z e phyr« -
le a th e r coa t S P O RT M A X
g lo v e s D E M A S K vi sor VIN TA G E
159
SILHOUETTE »3191« -
dre ss SPORT M A X C O D E bel t D A R K N E S S a cce ssoi re s an d b ra AT E L I E R L O R A N D L A J O S
160
FA C E À FA C E »Yummi2« -
d re ss IVY &OAK 162
FA C E À FA C E »Jolie2«
BY STEPHAN ZIEHEN s t yli n g DAV OR J EL U S IC a t T OM FALWARKOW MANAGE ME NT h ai r J ES U S RODRIGU EZ for KMS m ake - up F RAU KE BERGEMANN- GORS KI mod els VAL ERIA & ROS AL IE a t ICONIC MANAGEME NT re touch EL EKT RONIS CHE S CHÖNHEIT loca tion BERL IN
163
M AT E R I K A »70517« -
jacke t & p ants MARC O’POLO
164
M AT E R I K A »70518«
165
COLIBRIS »Stine Sun«
166
COLIBRIS »Stine Sun« -
jacke t BEL S TAF F, dre ss BA& S H, s hoe s VAGABOND
167
REIZ »Bre kzie« -
d re ss w i t h t u r t le n e c k S E L EC T E D
168
REIZ »B a salt« -
s hor ts & sh ir t VE RO MODA
169
R AY- B A N »3583« -
bl a z e r ASOS
170
B I Z Z TA L K
photo S T E FAN D ON GU S
INDEPENDENCE – IN DEPENDENCE
A PHI LOSOPHI CAL CONSI DERATI ON WI TH COPENHAG EN SPECS I N BERLIN
Five years ago, Morten Gammelmark established the COPENHAGEN SPECS tradeshow in his hometown. Now he’s taking the next step by premiering the concept in Berlin in autumn 2018. The Danish eyewear industry insider is on a mission – and his tradeshows are more about passion than profession. With COPENHAGEN SPECS IN BERLIN, he is creating a platform in one of Europe’s most vibrant design hubs for independent brands to connect with independent retailers. The emphasis is on “independent” an issue that’s dear to Morten’s heart. In our spectr interview on-site at the new venue in Berlin, he shares his thoughts on how retailers and brands can retain their freedom in our changing industry.
Morten, in early March you opened the doors to copenhagen specs for
Yes, of course. If the shop can buy and decide their own brands and
the fifth time. How was the response so far?
frames to carry in the store, it’s independent. We also find the term independent used frequently in the eyewear business
I feel very proud every time I open the doors to copenhagen specs and experience the support from both the labels and shops.
– for many people as an expression to separate the “good” from the
It is great when new exhibitors contact me after the show to share
“bad”. Is it that easy?
how their sales have increased. That proves how copenhagen
Of course not. And I am not opposed to non-independent players
specs has something important to offer to independent busines-
in the industry, my passion just lies elsewhere. My passion lies in
ses and that is what drives me year after year. And I’m hoping for
supporting the parts of the industry that continue to stay true to
that same feedback in Berlin this October.
design over revenue.
You always emphasize that independence is important to you. How do you define independence in general?
For me, independent means that you are free to do exactly what you want without asking for permission.
What are the benefits offered by independent brands? Why should opticians spend a large part of their budget to buy products from independent brands? End customers often come to independent opticians to find
In how far does this definition apply to brands?
frames they can’t find at the supply chains. Designs that make
Independent is when a brand is purely designer-driven and not
them stand out from the crowd. That is exactly what independent
mass-produced, licensed eyewear. This allows ultimate passion
opticians need – to stand out from the crowd. And viewed from their perspective, why should indie brands support the
and creativity to lead the way. And what about independent shops?
independent shops?
The same, really. They don’t have to ask for permission or report
Because this is where they will find enthusiasm for their designs
to any headquarters. They can buy the brands that they feel are
as well as the environment that allows them to stay true to the
best for their customers and not only choose from a certain assort-
passion that drives them. How can these two sides get in touch?
ment decided by the headquarters. And would you still consider retailers to be independent if they own, let’s
One of the ways in which to join forces is to participate in copen-
say, five stores?
hagen specs, a trade show by and for the independent eyewear 172
B I Z Z TA L K
exhibiting at copenhagen specs. Taking the show to Berlin has forced me to reconsider all the little details to make sure that I am introducing copenhagen specs to a new market in the best possible way. On that note, what was the reason behind expanding the concept to a second show in a new location? When something is great, a desire to expand it to even more people quite naturally presents itself. I’ve considered it for a while and now I’m taking the leap. So far, the support has been overwhelming. And what made you choose Berlin as a venue? The location means everything when it comes to creating the very unique atmosphere that defines the copenhagen specs DNA. Berlin and Copenhagen are quite alike in how there is room for everyone and everything. They are vibrant cities full of possibilities. Walking around Berlin, you get that sense of new develop-
Morten Gammelmark at the venue of copenhagen specs in berlin.
ments ‘bubbling’ under the surface, just like copenhagen specs is bubbling with innovative design every year. It is a perfect match. Also, the focus of copenhagen specs is international at heart. Berlin is a geographical center of Europe with the potential to become an international platform for innovative eyewear design. What kind of visitors do you expect?
business. To secure visibility, eyewear designers and opticians need to work together and that is exactly what copenhagen specs is
The show in Berlin is an international show and everyone from all over the world will be welcome. It’s still a B2B show, right? Wouldn’t it be good to open the show for end
all about. You once said that the term “independent” is completely misleading.
customers as well? That may help brands in their B2C marketing.
Please explain?
I want the end customers to go to their local optician instead to
Because the independent eyewear industry is exactly the opposite
buy their independent eyewear there. But I want all opticians to
of independent – you are all completely dependent on each other,
come and get inspired by the fantastic brands, so they can tell great
whether you like it or not. There is so much potential in inde-
stories to customers in their shops.
pendent labels and shops making more of an effort to join forces
How was the feedback from brands about the Berlin show? Do you have
and support each other. Especially in an increasingly competitive
the same partners as in Copenhagen?
market where the large labels and retail chains have the advantage
Some exhibitors are the same, some are new. In preparing for
through strength in numbers. You cannot be independent without
copenhagen specs in berlin, it has taken quite an effort to
being dependent on each other.
convince the German eyewear market that the show is truly the
But is copenhagen specs really for independents only?
place to be. Germany is a larger eyewear market than Scandinavia,
Absolutely not, everyone is welcome. But putting independents
also in terms of the selection of trade shows. And the smaller trade
at center stage is what differentiates copenhagen specs from
shows have really struggled with attracting visitors, hence the
other trade shows.
independent labels have lost faith in many trade shows. However,
Aside from exhibition space, what does the show offer to exhibitors?
I am thankful for experiencing a growing faith in my promise that
Networking opportunities, for instance at an exclusive party. Also,
copenhagen specs in berlin will be different. We have proven
this year I have added inspirational talks at the Copenhagen show
the concept in Copenhagen again and again, so I am confident that
on subjects such as online marketing and fashion trends to further
I can deliver on that promise. Thank you, Morten. We will see you in this same spot come autumn.
support the independent businesses in battling larger competitors. We also had the privilege to stage a premiere of the SPECTR movie “Facing North” that you produced exclusively with brands 173
www.copenhagenspecs.dk
COLLECTION CHECK
ANDY WOLF »S ee m ann«
ANDY WOLF WHITE HEAT »W il d in g«
photos RAPHAE L S C H M I T Z For the past few years, iconic Austrian eyewear label andy wolf has been segmenting its line-up into three collections. Aside from Soul and Love, the label from the Styria region also offers an upscale metal collection for style-conscious customers: White Heat. This collection is now manufactured in its own factory in the French Jura region with an eye for detail and precision. The minimalistic design concept of andy wolf’s White Heat collection relies on a unique blend between
the comfort of acetate and the lightness of metal. This approach cul-
»S an ds«
minates in the brand’s signature acetate nose bridge, which has been
reinterpreted for their latest release. In this season’s models, the acetate bridge takes a step back to serve the metal frames as the foundation for its keyhole bridge. Implementing this new approach across the entire line proved a design challenge: Each model required a new design and production of the nose bridge. Only very few brands in the eyewear business can go to such great lengths, namely the ones who control their own 174
COLLECTION CHECK
I C ONIC N O SE B R I D G E I N SILE N T R ES TRA I N T
ANDY WOLF »W il d in g«
»S an ds«
manufacturing. andy wolf handles it masterfully and combines acetate and metal into a unique symbiosis. In order to place the full emphasis on the design of the White Heat collection, the colorways are muted and understated, mostly rendered in tone-on-tone or slight color contrasts. The shapes are also a masterclass in great style: Panto and aviator shapes are joined by square models in various sizes. This one is bound to bring the heat this summer – and beyond. Actually, we would not be surprised if White Heat frames would be coveted as vintage classics 30 years from now.
»B odhi«
www.andy-wolf.com
175
BRAND PROFILE
STRELLSON EYEWEAR
FO R ME N O NLY
STRELLSON »33014« & »33006«
176
BRAND PROFILE
STRELLSON »33200« & »33201«
photos T HOM AS W I UF S C H WA RT Z strellson is dedicated to making men look great. The Swiss
premium brand aims at men who appreciate good style. Men with a sense of adventure and everything the urban metropolis has to offer. With a recognizable mixture of fashion and lifestyle, strellson has been outfitting men since 1984. From athletic and casual sports coats all the way to tuxedos, they cover the entire bandwidth of active modern styles. The new strellson eyewear collection applies this formula
Speaking of recognizable, the optical models in the strellson
successfully to optical designs. As a fashionable accessory, the frames
eyewear collection combine athletic flexibility with cosmopolitan
strike a fine balance between fashion sense and masculinity. The
influences true to the brand’s DNA. Frame designs revolve around
common denominator in the new collection is a hand-drawn red line
modern interpretations of classics, available in rounded and rec-
on the temple upper, which creates a recognizable accent throughout.
tangular lens shapes. The selection includes bold models featuring generous frames executed in transparent acetate, as well as delicate metal fronts in matted colorways. The collection’s sunglasses also connect to current trends. From double bridges with a brushed metal finish all the way to vintage styles featuring Havanna colorways and rounded lenses – this season’s strellson eyewear sunnies complement a confident overall look for today’s well-dressed gentlemen.
www.charmant.com
STRELLSON »33000« & »33001«
177
B I Z Z TA L K
IC! BERLIN
S A M E S A M E B U T D I F F E R E N T
p or trai t S T EFAN DONGU S
After IC! BERLIN recently secured an investor, Global Brand Director Pablo la Rosa has been in charge of the trending eyewear label’s strategic alignment and collection design. Having spent several years living in Berlin, the American marketing expert is looking to take brand communications at IC! BERLIN to the next level. spectr sat down with Pablo at the label’s flagship store in Berlin’s Mitte district to talk about current initiatives and future plans. 178
B I Z Z TA L K
Hello Pablo, what’s your personal background?
ambassador, and I am taking advantage of that. Ralph is a rock star
I’m an American and have been living in Berlin for the last ten
in the industry and our partners love having him out for events
years. I grew up in the Midwest and have always had a passion
in their territories. What I’m bringing is something different – an
for music, being both a producer and DJ in my former years. But
outsider’s view. This is healthy in a changing market. So it’s not so
design and fashion have always been a strong part of my life. I
much about following in his footsteps, but finding a path forward
earned my MBA in marketing and then spent most of my profes-
together.
sional career in California working in the music technology space.
What would you say are the key brand assets of ic! berlin?
This included brands like Roland, Avid and Native Instruments,
Definitely our expertise in sheet metal and our hinges. There’s
a Berlin-based brand that was the reason for my relocation to
really nothing out there better in this regard. There is also a lot of
Germany.
value in the brand. ic! berlin glasses have always been for people
And then you directly made the move to ic! berlin?
who appreciate quality, comfort and design. People appreciate
No, I was previously the Music Streaming General Manager at
that there is this little bit of Berlin attitude and quirkiness that’s
Lautsprecher Teufel, where I was responsible for managing product
quite unique. Or do you know of any other brand that engraves the
development and marketing for their music streaming systems.
founder’s real mobile phone number on each product?
So coming from a music industry background, what’s your first impression of the eyewear business?
Actually, no. What is that specific edge behind the ic! berlin philosophy? There’s a phrase we use internally that sums it up pretty well: we
My first impression of the eyewear business is that it’s ripe for
make glasses for everyone — everyone who does not want to be
disruption.
like everyone else. Real glasses made by real people in Berlin. And
That’s a scary word to a lot of people, but where exactly do you see that
Ralph would tell you that it’s about embracing contradictions.
potential in eyewear?
It’s obvious when you see that in the things we do, from putting a
There seems to be a very traditional way of marketing via opticians,
food truck in our fair booth to putting premium-priced frames in a
but I think it’s got to move more into a business-to-consumer
raw, deconstructed shop in the middle of Berlin. We are a premi-
and digital marketing model. It was also interesting when looking
um brand, but we show it in our own unique way.
at various brands how similar they can be in terms of product
What about materials in your frames? Will you expand upon your heritage
presentation online, at shows and in their marketing style. It’s a bit
as a sheet metal producer?
homogenous at times and I’m looking forward to shaking things
It’s true that we have our roots in sheet metal. You should see
up, because that’s what ic! berlin is known for. [ic! berlin
the factories in Berlin-Marzahn and Berlin-Moabit – it’s pretty
founder] Ralph [Anderl] paved the way and now it’s up to me and
amazing what the team is able to do in terms of bending, lasering,
my team to find creative ways to keep the spirit alive in a new,
and even coloring with our own PVD-coating. Metal will always
contemporary fashion.
be the core of what we do at ic! berlin. Of course we like to keep
In how far do business-to-consumer and digital marketing affect your
things interesting, so we are creating a lot of hybrid frames com-
communications strategy?
bining metal with acetate, rubber and even 3D-printed materials.
I believe ic! berlin needs to move from push marketing to pull
Now that you are in charge, how do you plan to strengthen your values
marketing, and that means more direct-to-consumer communi-
and philosophy over the next 100 days?
cation. We want ic! berlin to have more of a direct relationship
For me, there are two main areas of focus over the next months.
with customers, not just on a product level, but on a cultural level.
First, define the ic! berlin brand strategy and build a new corpo-
So we need to figure out how to bring cultural value into our new
rate website. There are lots of ideas floating around, but it’s impor-
brand communication.
tant to get it all down on paper so that all marketing and commu-
You took over a large part of responsibilities from Ralph Anderl. How does
nications are consistent in the future. And we will be reimagining
it feel to follow in the footsteps of a colorful personality like Ralph?
and modernizing the end-customer experience digitally in our
Ralph is not completely out of the picture. He still has a share in
website and physically in our flagship store. ic! berlin is known
the company and is officially on board as a consultant and brand
for innovation and that’s what we want to communicate.
179
B I Z Z TA L K
»Alle y Oop«
»B a s el in e«
IC! BERLIN
“Out Of This World” Campaign
» L a yup«
Out of this world – Astronauts on the AMADEE-18 Mars Analogue Mission shield their eyes with IC! BERLIN sunglasses.
180
B I Z Z TA L K
How do you plan to enhance brand awareness for ic! berlin? After all,
quality” in their communications. But what will really separate one brand
eyewear labels are not too widely recognized, except a few big players.
from the next?
That’s because there are only a few eyewear brands who have the marketing budgets large enough to really get on the radar through
Via the brand! Come on, please elaborate.
traditional media. But that just means we have to work smarter.
The stronger the competition and the more something moves into
And that’s where really knowing your customer and using mo-
a price or commodity orientation, the more important having a
dern digital tools can make the difference. I’m talking about online
strong brand identity becomes. People do not just buy products,
advertising, content marketing, social media, and community
they buy brands. And they buy brands that speak to them and are
initiatives: focusing on a smaller group of tastemakers who will
in line with their own personal identity or desired identity. This is why the work we’re doing right now on our brand is so crucial.
amplify the message outward and towards the masses. Tastemakers are very demanding in terms of style. Since you not only
Looking around the landscape, which are the five brands you are the
handle communications but are also in charge of design, what will be
closest to?
different in the future from a style perspective?
I don’t want to compare us to other eyewear brands. So let’s say
I can’t give away too much, but let’s just say we are having some
we’re like Porsche Design from a design perspective, like BMW or
intense internal discussions about how to further refine the
AMG from a performance perspective, like Rimowa from a German
collection to attract new customers while not alienating current
iconic product perspective and like Virgin from a founder, cultural
ic! berlin fans.
and attitude perspective.
On the subject of customers, we feel ic! berlin defines itself as a rather
You have also expanded your perspective with onono as a premium
male product. Do you plan to reach more female customers as well?
sub-label. But it is, in terms of the general awareness, not really linked to
In the past, ic! berlin has primarily offered styles that appeal to
ic! berlin. Isn’t that a waste of a potential image effect?
male customers. But if you look at the last two collections, there
Ralph started onono as more of an art project, but it’s become a
have been many frames created with female customers in mind. In
successful business venture in its own right. onono may simply
fact, the best-selling sunglass and correction frames last year were
become the luxury brand of ic! berlin and thereby benefit from
both female models. So yes, we do want to broaden our customer base and be more inclusive, but we will do it slowly and carefully.
ic! berlin’s brand power while broadening its portfolio.
As far as broadening your brand offering, you mentioned flagship stores. In what sense do you think flagship stores are important for a brand?
So when it comes to getting the message out to customers, what are your plans in defining a strong communication position?
The importance of a flagship store is about giving customers a
We are still in the process of nailing down our future brand com-
feeling for the brand itself and a place where they can touch, feel
munications strategy, but we will be doing more storytelling and
and try on literally every frame variation we make – something
content marketing. A good example is our new campaign “Out of
you likely won’t be able to do at an optician, since their selections
this world”. Here, we teamed up with the Austrian Space Forum
are more limited. Our flagship store is more than just a shop, it’s
on a Mars simulation by having the astronauts wear ic! berlin
a destination for the ic! berlin community with a schedule of
sunglasses from our new Athleisure Collection. This made for a
interesting and relevant events and happenings. How do you avoid impeding on your opticians’ business when you open
great Instagram campaign as the images were so arresting. And what kind of values do you want customers to have in mind when
new flagship stores?
they see ic! berlin?
If we decide to open new flagship stores, we would not put them
In terms of values, the main takeaways we try to implant in our
right next to an optician or partner. The point is not to take sales
customers’ minds are that we are the “original screwless eyewear
from them, but to create more brand awareness and loyalty,
brand”, hand-made in Berlin with the highest quality materials
which should ultimately drive more interest in the brand at their
and virtually indestructible construction. When you buy an
shops.
ic! berlin frame, you also buy into the lifestyle, which is a bit
They can always call you with complaints. When will you engrave your
irreverent, not too serious but at the same time confident.
own mobile number in the temples instead of Ralph’s?
Getting back to your earlier point, many brands are talking about “high
I think I’ll leave this to Ralph, he’s still the man! www.ic-berlin.de
181
RAFFLE
WOOD3N »R in gön« Hand-made wooden frame from Sweden in mahogany and ash in a bold panto style.
OLIVER GOLDSMITH »2010’s« A future retro aviator teardrop style with free floating hi gloss, gold flash mirror, gradient sunlenses.
THE EYEWEAR FLATRATE
COBLENS » Spoile r« Titanium frame in polished silver with stylish gradient UV-protective lenses in Water Blue/ Clear.
S P E C TR I N MO TI O N R A FFLE WI TH
SILHOUETTE
8 S TUNNI NG S UN G L A S S E S
»T it an Bree z e« Ultra-light titanium frame with a sleek aviator look and blue-nude gradient lenses.
S A LT. »Webb« Classic acetate frame in proven SALT. quality with polarized lenses.
photos RAP HAEL S CH MITZ What do these eight sunglasses have in common? Their material? Their shape? Or
BLACKFIN
color? Obviously not, as these stunners could
»Sil v e rd ale«
hardly be any more diverse. They sure are all
High profile adaption of a retro frame shape into a modern interpretation with beta titanium temples and gray reflective lenses.
certified eye catchers, but their biggest similarity is this: Very soon, they will all belong to the same lucky owner. We asked viewers to vote for their favorite part in our new Facing North short film. Ultimately, the part featuring Barton
GÖTTI
Perreira eyewear generated the most likes on
»Pe r s p e c ti v e«
Facebook – a well-deserved win. And among all participants who voted for the winner,
A frameless götti masterpiece that’s cutting edge with angular lenses. Watch it in the film in a terrifying light.
we raffled off this stunning eight-sunglasses package. Think of it as an eyewear flat rate for the rest of your life (if maintained properly).
MONKEYGLASSES
They offer the right look for every situation.
»L ar s e n«
Congrats on winning the best eyewear gift ever and thanks to our sponsors. Enjoy
Delicate, biodegradable acetate frame in a panto style with a double metal crossbar.
wearing these eight beauties, your SPECTR IN MOTION team. 182
WOOD FELLAS »A ue rburg« -
s w e a t e r RE SE RV ED p a nt s BU RL IN GT ON s ho e s E C C O
WOOD FELLAS »Nymphe n burg« -
ju mp e r & O T H E R S T O R I E S b ra J O S E P H c u lot t e R E S E R V E D sa n d a l s EC C O
184
B Y S T E FA N D O N G U S photo a ssis t a nt J A N A L UD W I G p rod c ut ion a ssis t a nt F R I E D E R IKE COENEN d i git a l op e ra t in g C A R O R O S S s t yl in g M A S C H A M Ö L L ER a t N I NA KL EIN h air & m a ke -up: K E R S T I N H UE S GES a t NINA KL EIN t a le nt s A N A S TA S I A a t M O D E LW ERK, MARIA a t S P IN, V IT U S a t IZAIO & J AKOB a t MD MANAG E ME NT re touch G L A M T O UC H lo ca t ion C O L O G N E
185
ECO »Har i« + »Har i Clip -on« -
s w e a t e r P ENGU IN
186
ECO »Har i« + »Har i Clip -on« -
blou s e AVE LON skir t H&M san d al s E CCO
ECO »Yamun a« + »Yamun a Clip -on«
187
ANDY WOLF »Ann a belle Sun« -
bl a z e r AS OS t ur tle ne ck F IL IP PA K s hor ts DIES EL s an d als ECCO
188
ANDY WOLF »Troy Sun« -
p ark a RE SE RVE D s hi r t HRMNY BY RE SE RVE D s hor ts HE RR V. E DE N
189
190
ByWP »O Y17405GG« -
dre ss & OTHE R STORIE S s an d al s E CCO s car f VINTAGE
191
ByWP »O Y17407P G« -
polo s hi r t RE SE R V ED s hor t s M ARNI
192
ByWP »O Y18013B S« -
jac ke t AM E RIC AN A P PA R EL s hi r t N U DI E S p a nt s RE S E R V E D
193
GLCO »Ja cq ueline« -
blou s e & OT HER S T ORIES d e ni m GES T U Z
194
GLCO »Del R e y« -
coa t & blou s e VILA p ants V ERO MODA
195
KALEOS »Mur row 1« -
coa t IS ABEL MARANT ÉT OIL E blou s e AT MOS P HERE s hor ts C/MEO COL L ECT IV E
196
KALEOS »L edou x 4« -
blou s e VE RO M O D A p a nt s BAU M U N D P F ER D G A RT E N 197
OLIVER PEOPLES »K e il« -
jacke t S AMS OE & S AMS OE s hi r t RES ERV ED
198
OLIVER PEOPLES »MP-3 30th« -
blou s e VE R O M O D A c u lot t e B O S S 199
I-SPAX »Mai k ai« -
ju mpsu it M A R C I A N O blou s e V E R O M O D A
200
COLLECTION SHOOT
BARTON PERREIRA TURNS TEN
1 0 Y E A RS 1 0 G LA S S E S 1 0 Q U E S T I O NS
»Del phin e«
BARTON PERREIRA
s ui t MONKI, top COS
Once again proof that time really does fly: Founded in 2008, premium eyewear label barton perreira is already celebrating its
tenth anniversary. Which is also proof that masterful design and an uncompromising dedication to the highest standards of excellence provide a foundation for long-term success in the eyewear business. Especially when luminaries such as label founders Patty Perreira and Bill Barton have their way. Today, ju mp e r SE LEC TE D bombe r jacke t C OS
the Los Angeles-based label almost seems as if it has always been here, and that’s a good thing. SPECTR congratulates with a ten-part interview with the two designers, accompanied by ten select pieces from their current collection.
BARTON PERREIRA »Da uphin«
photos S T EFAN DONGU S a ss i s t ant F RIEDERIKE COENEN s t yli n g FABIANA VARDARO h ai r & m ake - up S U T IDA mod els OL IV IA a t S P IN MODEL S & L EON a t KU LT MODEL S 202
s h ir t TIGE R OF SWEDE N t re nch coa t SE LE CTE D
BARTON PERREIRA
dre ss COS
»T hur s ton«
203
» Ni n a«
BARTON PERREIRA
TEN TEN TEN TEN TEN TEN TEN TEN TEN TEN
COLLECTION SHOOT
COLLECTION SHOOT
The beginning of their joint venture
acetate blends made in Japan, next to
also marked the end of a previous
delicately crafted titanium. And for
chapter for Patty Perreira and Bill
that special luxe finish, each frame is
Barton. Both left their positions
still manufactured by hand just like
at eyewear label Oliver Peoples for
ten years ago.
ideological reasons after it had been
While quality standards remain
sold to Oakley. And while Patty was
unchanged, the stylistic breadth
already plotting a radical departure
of the collection is constantly
from the eyewear business in order
expanding, drawing on anything
to pursue her secret passion of
from classic shapes all the way to
jewelry design, Bill still felt driven
bold lines and designs inspired by
by the vision to produce the world’s
the 1970s. The signature blend of
best eyewear.
upscale quality and stylish design
But in order to get there, Bill
has turned barton perreira into
knew he needed Patty, whose out-
thought leaders in the global premi-
standing design talent he had come
um eyewear arena. Plus, the brand
to know and appreciate during their
is also a regular guest at red carpet
time at Oliver Peoples. Ultimately,
events, thanks to VIP fans and am-
all it took to win her support was a
bassadors including Angelina Jolie,
simple question: What would you
Rachel Zoe, Heidi Klum, Jessica Biel,
design, if you were in charge of your
Orlando Bloom, Brad Pitt, Chris
very own collection? This sparked a
Evans and Lady Gaga.
up to their first meeting six weeks
rous, Patty and Bill have also set out
later, she had already worked on
to raise the bar in terms of innova-
1000 design sketches.
tion: They have recently begun to
From then on out, their success
1
Aside from keeping it glamo-
creative fire, and when Patty showed
PHILOSOPHY – Which keywords best describe your brand?
revolutionize eyewear manufactu-
bill: Design vision,
story has been unstoppable. After
ring. When current frame technolo-
craftsmanship, execution,
premiering their first collection in
gies on the market fell short of their
evolution, beauty.
2008, barton perreira soon hit
standards, the two single-handedly
the shelves of more than 150 stores
launched sub-label allied metal
worldwide. The eyewear business
works and created a screw-free
had found its new dream team.
hinge system. It’s exactly this kind
The initial drive for perfec-
of progressive attitude that has allowed barton perreira to
EMOTIONS – What were the most emotional
barton perreira maintains its
keep things fresh over the years,
moments after founding the company?
high standards in terms of quality,
and made ten years fly by in no
patt y: The support from our friends,
design, and functionality while con-
time. Here’s a look back and into the
customers and retail partners has been
tinuing to raise the bar with unique
future in this issue’s Anniversary
amazing. Our collaborations with
designs. The foundation for their
feature.
Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York,
2
tion still informs the label today.
and Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony
high-class frames rests upon special
have all been incredible and proud moments for me personally and for barton
3
perreira. We are celebrating our ten
year anniversary this year with a special ten year anniversary archive inspired
TEAM BUILDING – What is the biggest benefit of your collaboration with Patty? bill: Well, it sure makes all things easier when you work with some-
one with Patty’s amazing talents. When Patty and I decided to work together ten years ago, I told her the one thing I was not worried about was the product we would create. I knew her designs would be awesome. She has not disappointed! 204
collection, which is also a very exciting and emotional moment.
COLLECTION SHOOT
sui t HUGO
BARTON PERREIRA »C amb r i d ge« 205
»Vol a ir«
BARTON PERREIRA
s ui t ANTONY MORATO
COLLECTION SHOOT
4 MILESTONES – What have been the most important milestones for barton perreira in the past ten years? bill: I don’t know that there are clear milestones. We
have grown as a brand each of our first ten years. We were successful in launching in some of the top fashion doors when we started in 2008 and have seen great growth in both the optical and fashion stores.
POPULARITY – You have attracted some very famous brand
6
ambassadors, how come? patt y: We are very fortunate that some are our
personal friends and others discover, purchase and covet barton perreira on their own. They have a heightened sense of luxury and appreciate our great
5
styling and beautiful colors, as well as our impeccable craftsmanship, balance and fit.
DESIGN – Patty, what’s the most exciting part of designing eyewear? patt y: I love the entire creative process... from
conceptual drawings to the final product. It’s very exciting and it makes me happy to see my designs come to life.
7 INSPIRATION – Where do you get the inspiration for your creative design work? patt y: My design process is quite
instinctual. I find inspiration in
9
almost everything, but it is really the visionaries in art, architecture
SUCCESS – What are the most important
and music who remain true to their
ingredients of your success story?
art form that continue to challenge
bill: Patty and I are very proud of the
and inspire me. I also have a passion
product we put out into the world.
for vintage jewelry, cars and motor-
We never sacrifice on the quality and
cycles, as well as the Jamaican
design of our product! That’s where
landscape.
the success starts. But, it’s the talented people who work at and with barton perreira that make it
happen day in and day out. It takes a
8
great team to be successful and I have
BRAND POSITIONING – What sets your label apart from other luxury eyewear brands? pat t y:
so much respect for all the people we work with at barton perreira! It also takes great retail partners who
Our passion, focus, commitment and creative
believe and support your product
direction. barton perreira is a true luxury brand.
and brand with every collection. Our
Our focus is our product. We are deeply committed
customers are talented retailers who
to bringing the best eyewear to the market. We do not
are dedicated to their craft.
cut corners. We have a relentless devotion to craft and an almost obsessive-compulsive desire to make our frames perfect.
206
»Tu dor«
BARTON PERREIRA
COLLECTION SHOOT
BARTON PERREIRA »C he valie r« sh ir t & p a nt s C O S
t ur tle ne ck U NIQL O, top VLADIMIR KARALE E V 207
COLLECTION SHOOT
»C ou r tie r«
BARTON PERREIRA
s hi r t GOET ZE
10 FUTURE – Where do you see barton perreira in the next
years? bill: If we continue to
focus on our process, meaning the product, coa t FILIPPA K, p ants GOETZ E
relationships, creativity, partnerships, and so on, the results will take care of themselves. We will keep growing the passion for eyewear and barton perreira day by day.
BARTON PERREIRA »Sol Ma t e« www.bartonperreira.com 208
ARENA BERLIN
October 20—21, 2018
We support independent eyewear WWW.COPENHAGENSPECS.DE
L.G.R »B ou gan ville« -
ju mpsu it G UES S
BY BELA RABA s t yli n g ARIAN E RA B A & L O I Z O S S O F O K L EO US a t MOIOS T ROV S T U DIO h a ir & m a ke - up A R N O H UM E R d i g i t a l a ss i s t a nt Q UE N T I N S T R O H M EI E R pos t p ro d uc t ion F L O R I A N WA G N ER a t B AVA R I A NRET OU CH mo d els T HE RE S A S . a t A C EM O D E L S & F I L I US C . a t DMODEL S photo a ss i s t a nt s A D A M N I C O L A O U & C H R I S T O PHER S TAV RINIDES p rod uc t ion AL E X A N D ER PA PA C O S TA a t M O I O S T ROV S T U DIO e x e c ut i v e clie nt s e r v ice d ire c tor C A R S T EN D ROCHNER a t DOPAMIN s p e c i a l t h a n ks to D P W O R L D L I M A S S O L for a r ran gi n g the loca tion lo ca t ion C YPR U S
PERSOL »3198« -
d re ss D . E X T ERIOR
212
PERSOL »3199« -
jacke t ARMANI p ants MICHAEL KORS
213
LINDBERG »8415« -
out fi t ZOE S OP HOCL EOU S
LINDBERG »8401« -
tre nchcoa t BU RBERRY
EINSTOFFEN »Alpinis t« -
ja c ke t G E S T UZ p a nt s 5 P R EV I EW
EINSTOFFEN »Alpinis t« -
sh ir t B A L EN C I A G A
P O W D E R & H E AT »T he Fl a tscree n« -
outfi t ZOE S O PHOCLE OUS
P O W D E R & H E AT »T he E a gle E y e s« -
jacke t BU RBERRY
MODO »688« -
blou s e MICHAE L KORS dre ss SAMSOE
MODO »457« -
ja c ke t N E I L L B A R R E T T
M AY B A C H »T he P uls e I« -
coa t PHILLIP LIM
O N E YEAR OF K N O W LE D GE Go for a one-year subscription of SPECTR Magazine and receive three print issues in your physical mailbox per year. That’s a crisp issue full of eyewear insights every four months! New issues drop every January, May and September and each one delivers the same level of editorial perspective and aesthetic standards that SPECTR is known for. Would you like to read our print magazine in Hamburg, New York, Tokyo or Cape Town? It couldn’t be any easier. We ship worldwide – just say the word.
KALEOS » Mur row 1 «
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