SPECTR Issue 24 by Monday Publishing GmbH

Nr. 24 – III / 2018 EUR 15,–

ENGLISH GERMAN

GÃ&#x2013;TTI PERSPECTIVE

danish design by Âˇ made by

@SALTOPTICS

bartonperreira.com

garrettleight.com

ACETATE

ACETATE orgreenoptics.com

www.haffmansneumeister.com

faceaface-paris.com

SILMO | Paris | Hall 5 | Booth D 093

7013 MHNY / 7013 DBWN | MODO.COM

WELCOME

PER SPEC TIVE

EDITORIAL

lcome to Change “Perspective” is not just the name of our cover photo shoot showcasing the Rimless Collection by Götti. It’s also the overall theme for this current issue of SPECTR. There are many perspectives to choose from and in many cases, life is really just a matter of what point of view you have. What’s more, perspectives loom large over our product of choice: eyewear. Ultimately, perspectives are about seeing things in a special light and from a certain viewpoint. Sometimes it’s also a positive experience to see things through a different pair of eyes, break down established paradigms and explore a new standpoint. Discovering new and uncharted territories can unlock tremendous potential. Here at the magazine, we are also constantly trying to blend time-honored staples with new approaches. One of these new perspectives has been our foray into producing moving images. For our first major video project “Facing North”, we had a great time getting creative and letting the camera roll this Spring. Since then, we have shot video at many of our photo shoots – often with the same camera – to capture moving images. As it turns out, animated images blended with music create an entirely new, emotional context for showcasing eyewear. We also expanded our perspective – towards exploring our creativity more freely – by moving into the spacious Studio Lichtstrasse operated by photographer Peter Boettcher. Located a mere ten minutes from our office, the new location with its glass ceiling and brick walls in an inviting, historic industrial area in the hip Cologne Ehrenfeld neighborhood checks all the boxes for the ideal creative space. The gigantic cavetto provides ample space for models to roam freely, including the protagonists in our current cover shoot. For more new perspectives, we invite you to turn the page and enjoy our new issue. SD

photo S T EFAN DONGU S “PERSPECTIVE RELOADED”

( p a ge 9 2 - 9 6 )

102 126 130 132 134 142

T H E V O YA G E

YA M A M O T O » Y Y 3 0 2 1 « & » Y Y 3 0 2 3 «

C O N C R E T E S TAT E M E N T

F A M I LY A F F A I R

114 063

092

L A SNIK – Austrian Eyewear Multitasking

087

L INDBERG Frames Staged in an Architectural Masterpiece

054

072

Refined Design of a Fashion Icon

063

SA LT. Teams Up with A ET HER

ØRGEEN’s New Collection in Minimal Vintage

054

T H E C O L O R O F A C E TAT E

By Angelika Buettner

043

THE LOOKOUT

By Raphael Schmitz

C AT H Y A N D PAT T Y

M AT ER IK A’s Mix of Materials

P L AY I N G W I T H T H E E L E M E N T S

GÖT T I Plays with Shape and Color

PERSPECTIVE RELOADED

M A R KUS T – 20 Years German Engineering

E X I T I N G LY U N E X C I T E D

By Stefan Kapfer

Ordinary World

NEUBAU Highlights 2018

DOUBLE DOUBLE

HNH – The Masters of Flat Metal

THEY DID IT AGAIN

By Stefan Dongus

PARADIGM LOST

CONTENT

098

114

200 204 206 208 220

SIGHTSEEING WITH KBL

ENGINEERED AESTHETICS

B R I N G I N G N AT U R E T O T O W N

Je Pense – Je Sois

T H E C O N S E R VAT O RY

178

198

By Bela Raba

180

174

By Ava P ivot

162

New WOOD F EL L A S Styles

150

Porsche: Highlights for the 40th Birthday

148

A Travel-inspired Eyewear Concept

Parisian Avant-garde Sunglasses Collaboration

198

ALAIN MIKLI X ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

180

208

By Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter

THE PROTOCOL

Eyeglasses and Culinary Delights from F L E Y E

DANSK DELICACIES

A Limited Edition Sun Frame from the Amsterdamse School

SUZY GLAM GOES ART DECO

Elena Doukas – New Head of P roduct Design at GLCO

F R O M R E TA I L T O D E S I G N

By Florian Renner

ACCESS ALL AREAS

By Edisonga

P L AY W I T H M E

ET NI A BA RCELONA’s Micro Frames

AFTER MIDNIGHT

CONTENT

186

CAZAL

IMPRESSUM EDITOR IN CHIEF

Stefan Dongus dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

LINDBERG »L e x«

L AYOUT

Caro Ross ross@spectr-magazine.com

EDITORIAL STAFF

Jana Ludwig press@spectr-magazine.com Dirk Vogel vogel@spectr-magazine.com

PROOFRE ADING Insa Muth Peter Ashford Franca Rainer

TR ANSL ATION Dirk Vogel

ONLINE EDITOR

Franca Rainer online@spectr-magazine.com

PHOTOGR APHERS

Aglaja Brix & Florian Maas Angelika Buettner Eda Calisti Stefan Dongus Edisonga Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter Stefan Kapfer Ava Pivot Bela Raba Florian Renner Raphael Schmitz

PUBLISHER

Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com www.facebook.com/spectrmagazine

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F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de SPECTR erscheint drei Mal im Jahr. Diese Zeitschrift und alle in ihr enthaltenen Beiträge dürfen ohne vorherige schriftliche Erlaubnis des Verlags in keiner Weise weiterverwertet oder in elektronische Datenbanken aufgenommen werden. Ein Antrag auf Genehmigung für die Verwendung des urheberrechtlich geschützten Materials sowie für die Reproduktion von Auszügen in anderen Werken muss beim Verlag gestellt werden. Die hier abgedruckten Ansichten entsprechen nicht unbedingt denen des Herausgebers. Alle Rechte vorbehalten. co v e r photos S T E FA N D O NG U S a ssis t a nt s C A R O R O S S & JA NA LU DW IG p ro d uc t ion F R I ED ER I K E C O E NE N clot h i n g G Y ’ B E L L h air & m a ke - up A N S C H IE a t LIG AW E ST mo d els J I L L a t S E E D S & DA NIE L a t C O R E g l a ss e s G Ö T T I

“CONCRE TE STATE M E NT” (p a ge 1 3 4 -1 4 0 )

Silmo Paris - Hall 5 - Booth D150

pl ao rs at d i g m

BY STEFAN DONGUS p roduc tion F RIEDERIKE COENEN a ss i s t ant J ANA L U DW IG s t yli n g ROL F BU CK h ai r & m ake - up S IV IL L ACK a t NICOL A W EIDE MANN t ale nts F INN MAT Z a t CORE & L EO a t S P IN loca tion NEU S S

L.A.EYEWORKS

»Topan ga«

»L ov egood« -

pul lov e r G-STAR p ants DIOR HOMME shoe s NIKE bel t VE TE ME NTS 43

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER »Ph antom« -

t u r t le ne c k & s w e a t e r C A R H A RT T

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER »Ha z eltine« -

t ur tle ne ck CARHARTT coa t J IL SANDE R p ants G-STAR

MODO »T ic ine s e« -

ja c ke t Z ARA sh ir t F RE D PE RRY

ECO »P i a v e«

ECO »E d in burgh« -

lon g s lee v e & p ants CARHARTT s hi r t COMME DE S GARÇONS

MODO »4419«

R AY- B A N »T he G e ne ral« -

s w e a t e r C H EA P M O N D AY sca r f YA M A M O T O p a nt s B O S S soc k s A D I D A S shoe s P UM A

R AY- B A N »T he C olonel« -

s hi r t BOS S p ants DRIES VAN NOOTE N

IC! BERLIN »Marco M .« -

pu l lov e r & p ants CARHART T sn e a ke r s ADIDAS

HEAVYWEIGHTS

t h e y d i d it again

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Masters of Flat Metal

photos S T EFAN DONGU S s t il l s RAP HAEL S CHMIT Z

Jean-Pierre Neumeister

HEAVYWEIGHTS

Philipp Haffmans

The news spread like wildfire across the industry two years ago: Daniel Haffmans, Philipp Haffmans, and Jean-Pierre Neumeister decided to leave eyewear label Mykita. Industry insiders were surprised. After all, these three were founding members of Mykita and had already created a successful label earlier on with ic! berlin. After a short reorientation period, the trio decided to stay within the eyewear business and apply their over 20 years of expertise to a new project. With their new eponymous label HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER (HNH), Daniel, Philipp, and JeanPierre are building their third house “just for themselves”. When the first pieces from the new label debuted in front of select audiences last year, it was clear that the three are not aiming to reinvent themselves radically with their new venture, but rather stay the course of their evolutionary path. The main focus lies with a special level of finesse in their products. One year after the launch, HNH has constantly expanded its core collection and designed various additional lines. One thing that was to be expected is that all collections exclusively consist of flat metal frames. The screw-less hinges are another nod to innovative tradition, although HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER took it upon themselves to create their own iterations. For autumn 2018, the label has already announced a new patented hinge concept, which will figure front and center of the Ultralight collection. SPECTR caught up with the three founders at HNH’s Berlin office to get the inside story behind their innovative offering. In the process, we not only learned exclusive secrets about the HNH brand universe, but embarked on a 100-year journey through the history of eyewear design.

Daniel Haffmans

HEAVYWEIGHTS

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER »Ha z elti ne«

» Ph antom«

Philipp, Daniel, and Jean-Pierre, you guys left

that’s when we also knew that our story

identity, tradeshow booths or our own

Mykita two years ago, although it was you who

in the eyewear world was far from over.

stores. We develop everything meti-

founded and built up the brand. What happened?

In how far?

culously with a love for detail. That’s a

daniel: Outsiders tend to only see the

daniel: Our shared history of over 20

unique approach and our customers have

perfect facade of a company and not

years as the inventors of the flat metal

always sensed that we are serious about

necessarily the inter-personal connec-

frame as well as founders and designers of

what we do. Both at ic! berlin and Mykita,

tions behind it. So when a company and a

ic! berlin and Mykita really had a profound

our success has proven this to be the right

brand are successful, nobody can imagine

impact on us. We realized that eyewear is

why anyone would want to give that up.

dear to our hearts and that we have a lot

But you are also aware that the bar is set pretty

But three years ago we had just arrived at

of fun doing it. Additionally, we have all

high after the success of both your previous

the right point in time to call it quits and

developed intense friendships with other

labels?

start something new.

direction.

companies and our customers, which we

jean-pierre: The level of expectations is

Previously, you were also co-founders of

also treasure. So we can rightfully say that

indeed rather high. Everybody expects

ic! berlin, so the launch of haffmans &

haffmans & neumeister allows us

to see something that’s never been done.

neumeister marks your third eyewear label.

to build upon our tradition in avant-garde

So in reality, we have actually become a

Have you ever entertained the idea of pursuing

eyewear.

competitor of our own products. For us

something entirely different? philipp: We all had different ideas at

So building image-heavy eyewear brands is your

it’s actually more about advancing our

passion?

ideas with haffmans & neumeister

the time. Jean-Pierre already had an arts

daniel: The brand aspect is at the center

gallery, Daniel wanted to get back into

of many companies, while the product

How can we imagine this next level? With totally

architecture and I had plans to pursue

ultimately becomes replaceable. We come

new concepts?

apparel. But after a short time we all rea-

into it from the product side of things,

philipp: We believe that a focus on our

lized that we actually miss eyewear. And

whether it’s about the glasses, corporate

core competencies is the key to success. As

and taking it to the next level.

HEAVYWEIGHTS

LINE COLLECTION

The basic collection pays homage to classic spectacle shapes.

» Swif t« » Tutm ark«

» Ph antom«

HNH Hinge 1.0

the inventors of the “flat metal eyewear”

With haffmans & neumeister, are you trying

and the basis for future expansions. Next

category, we want to focus haffmans &

to achieve a clear delineation to previous

to finely crafted designs, we have also

neumeister on our 20-year expertise

brands in terms of the visual appearance of the

enhanced the functional features of our

and passion for sheet metal – with the

products?

products. The results include a new hinge

goal of pushing this product segment for-

daniel: Both previous brands are of

ward. The trend on the eyewear market is

course highly characterized by our signa-

currently headed towards every company

ture style, which has remained constant

What made you decide to incorporate your own

trying to do everything, which ultimately

over 20 years at different companies. We

names into your brand for the first time?

leads to brands becoming interchangeable.

want to stay true to this success formula

that looks far less technical and creates a more elegant and intuitive impression.

jean-pierre: With ic! berlin the focus

daniel: Metal frames still create a high-

with haffmans & neumeister as well

was on the name of the city, with Mykita

value impression that cannot be matched.

and will not try to force it into an entirely

about the location of the company. With

They are super lightweight and highly

different direction. But then again, the

haffmans & neumeister it’s about

adaptable. For us it’s the logical continua-

new brand does stand out from past of-

the people behind the products who

tion of our own story to keep working on

ferings, because HNH has a more mature

contribute their 20-year experience into

and upscale appearance.

the company. The focus is getting increa-

it. But even when we entered the market with Mykita in 2004, many people called

How do you achieve this positioning?

singly precise, in line with our strategy to

it an imitation of ic! berlin. But there were

philipp: We want to make the brand

also those who could see the creators and

warmer, more personal and high-quality.

More about that later. What is the brand philo-

inventors of the flat metal frame behind

This already becomes apparent in the

sophy behind haffmans & neumeister?

the brand. They were the ones who deci-

choice of our CI color, a warm chestnut

philipp: For us it’s essential that a technical

ded to bring the new products into their

tone. For Silmo 2017, we introduced a

product also looks beautiful. Something

store and it has worked well for them

meticulously crafted collection that is

technical can simultaneously be functio-

until today.

the foundation for our product offering,

nal and visually appealing. We are only

explore the “flat metal” segment in depth.

HEAVYWEIGHTS

ULTRALIGHT COLLECTION

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER »Ha m ilton«

From flat metal to wire – HNH plays with the course from surface to line.

» Pe nros e«

content when both factors complement

philipp: The term “sheet metal frame”

daniel: In close alignment to the origami

each other. We also strive to pursue new

does not live up to the product and its

principle, the folding of the material is the

ways of thinking with each product, away

value proposition. The glasses are indeed

fundamental function behind our frames.

from the beaten path.

crafted from stainless steel sheets,

Whenever you bend paper, its static

Will you also continue the focus on technical

because the material is fantastically suited

properties change automatically, allowing

quality “Made in Berlin” with haffmans &

for eyewear manufacturing – which is

you to create highly stable objects. We

neumeister?

something we put into action for the first

want to expand on this rather simple but

jean-pierre: Berlin is our home, we all

time 20 years ago. The term “flat metal” is

highly effective method. Folding raw

have family roots here. Even after 20

more suited to the quality of the products

materials is a constant theme throughout

in our opinion.

disciplines such as product design and

years, Berlin remains a totally exciting and bustling town with endless possibi-

Why do you like flat metal so much?

architecture. This conceptual approach

lities. What’s more, we have rebuilt our

daniel: Frames created from flat metal

has also led to our very first screw-less

own manufacturing workshop in Berlin.

have an exceptionally high value because

eyewear hinge. Today, “screw-less” has

Our entire product development process

they are light as a feather and highly

become a staple design feature in eyewear

has become far shorter and simplified

moldable. At the same time, they have a

that many products like to claim. It’s in-

through our in-house production. We

very graphic appearance and a jewelry-

dispensable in the eyewear universe – and

have better opportunities to control the

like character. We are seeing tremendous

quality, processes, and delivery time-

future potential in this material. It allows

The hinges in your latest collection also function

frames as well as increasing our speed to

us to work very precisely and leaves us

entirely without screws. What’s new this time?

market.

much room for creative designs in its

daniel: Following our brand strategy, we

three-dimensional form.

wanted our hinges to be more high-grade

We are looking at the first HNH collection in front

we have created this concept.

of us and – to no surprise – we are seeing sheet

How do you achieve this three-dimensional

and at the same time reflective of our

metal frames.

impression?

expertise in flat metal. As a result, we 58

HEAVYWEIGHTS

» B r icard«

» L o v el a ce«

HNH hinge 2.0 – screwless minimalism

have a minimalistic screw-less hinge, in

the present. It serves as our basic collection

have gone into great detail to elaborate

which two squares intersect and can be

which we will continuously expand. The

on the silhouettes of each type and place

intertwined at a 90-degree angle. This

color spectrum of our frames is defined

them in a contemporary context. Just

allows the temple to arrest precisely and

by gold, rosé gold, silver and black, in some

the mere translation of shapes into the

notably in the opened and closed posi-

cases supplemented by colorful accents in

language of flat metal is a high level of

composite parts crafted from acetate.

abstraction that differentiates the pro-

tion. The hinge looks far less technical and creates a harmonious form language

Would you describe this collection as a journey

ducts from traditionally crafted eyewear

while being understated from a visual

through the last century of eyewear design?

and sets them in a contemporary light.

standpoint. Will your collection remain limited to flat metal?

philipp: The collection is the result of a

rigid design concept, which is oriented on

In short, the collection carries a strong haffmans & neumeister signature.

jean-pierre: We are not ruling out other

the fundamental forms of eyewear frames

What is the collection’s ratio between prescrip-

materials, but initially want to maintain

in a historic context. There are six essen-

tion models and sunglasses?

the focus of haffmans & neumeister

tial types: round, oval, panto, aviator,

jean-pierre: For the first time we will

on further developing metal frames. Our

cat eye and American square. They form

be offering the majority of our frames as

collections will differ significantly from

the basis of all eyewear frames that exist

both prescription and sunglasses models.

each other, so our product offering will be

today and also the foundation of our new

Many of our RX-frames are highly suited

collection.

as sunglasses, but the entire look of the

sufficiently broad. All the product details you mentioned are part of the Line Collection. What’s the story behind it?

So it’s a collection full of retro styles?

frames changes dramatically when fitted

philipp: No! Our goal was to bring to

with tinted lenses. The only exception are

philipp: The Line Collection is the very

market a highly curated and balanced

frames that are unsuitable as RX-frames

first HNH collection and pays homage to

collection with a broad range of sizes in

the classic, established shapes of the early

which opticians can find everything they

Will you keep the amount of models in the

days of eyewear design all the way into

need to work with and drive sales. We

collection manageable?

due to their size factor.

HEAVYWEIGHTS

Even after 20 years still a lot of fun in eyewear design.

jean-pierre: The Line Collection currently

some places that an almost square cross-

on the customer service capabilities of

consists of 23 models in four colors each,

section is formed. The slender frame

our opticians to communicate the special

which is quite a lot at launch. But we are

cross-sections thus almost resemble those

aesthetic and manufacturing quality of

also planning an additional collection in order to offer a broader portfolio.

of wire frames in some areas. Will there also be a new hinge concept?

At this point, your journey through time seems to

daniel: Yes, the continuous minimization

end in the 1960s. Why?

our collections. So for you the cooperation with established opticians still presents a future-proof concept?

of the material only works to a certain

daniel: The market has seen continuous

jean-pierre: Next to our two current

extent with an existing hinge solution.

differentiation over the past ten years.

collections, Line and Phasmid, we are

At some point you are no longer able to

The last years saw the rise of brands that

also bringing to market two additional

match the hinge with the specific ele-

are exclusively conducting business in

collections, which includes the P60

ments of the frames from a technical and

the B2C online retail space as well as

Collection focused on exactly this point

proportions standpoint. That’s why we

their own retail stores. For established

in time. P60 is short for Post 60s so we

created a new hinge solution that is highly

opticians and labels, these professionally

cover everything that transpired after

suited towards the lightweight character

positioned companies with their low

of our new collection.

price points are posing a challenge. Some

the 1960s period. What makes P60 different?

On that note, we are also seeing four rather

of our clients are now eliminating their

extravagant glasses on the table in front of us.

medium price segment entirely for this

the form language of the “first wave” of

philipp: You’re looking at the previously

reason and place their focus exclusively

eyewear types. The P60 Collection, which

mentioned Phasmid Collection. It repre-

on the higher price, premium eyewear

is now coming to market, is all about the

sents a sense of creative freedom outside

category. So there is still future potential

aesthetic evolution of eyewear after the

pre-established conventions. For instance,

for established opticians and we want to

1968 revolution. It’s an experimental era

the elimination of nose pads lends the

in which classic eyewear shapes changed

design a rather graphic-driven, bold look

radically, a true explosion of shapes. They

because the lines remain undisturbed

& neumeister? How has the response to the

suddenly became rather large, colorful

by this kind of add-on. It’s an aesthetic

new collections been so far?

and expressive. Blends between classic

feature on one hand, and another experi-

philipp: Many opticians are happy to see

types led to new and interesting eye-

mental take on minimalism on the other,

that we’re back with a new brand and that

wear shapes. That is the spirit of the P60

which is part of the design philosophy

our expertise is not lost to the eyewear

Collection as it creates new shapes in a

here at HNH. Our target group consists of

market. So for this reason we already have

contemporary context.

opticians and high-end boutiques as well

quite an established customer base. At

as concept and designer stores.

the same time, opticians must also be able

philipp: The Line Collection captures

Are there additional highlights? philipp: Yes, we have a nice innovation

lined up – the Ultralight Collection – a very filigree and discreet collection. What exactly are the standout characteristics?

raise the bar with them. Are opticians showing appreciation for haffmans

Where will your “regular” collections be available?

to understand the differences to our pre-

jean-pierre: At select high-end opticians.

vious labels and educate their customers

Have you considered a distribution concept extending all the way to end consumers?

jean-pierre: The execution of the new

daniel: Of course we have considered it,

collection is a play on the transition from

but have opted against taking this step

surfaces to lines, from flat metal to wires.

at this point. Our business concept is

The cut-out of the frame is so narrow in

entirely different. We are really banking 60

accordingly. We hope that they will help to see haffmans & neumeister off to a great start. We wish you the same. haffmansneumeister.com

d re ss E LIZ ABETH AND JAM ES b racele t YAE L

s hi r t S ANDRO p ants DRYKORN

Double DNeubau o u Highlights b l e 2018

packaging all the way to the actual eyewear.

across the entire production chain – from the

sustainability and environmental protection

The label based in the town of Linz prioritizes

by a different set of values in manufacturing:

capital, Vienna. This hip aspect is balanced

the name of a trendy borough in their country’s

label reflects this influence, as neubau is also

pointers from urban culture. The name of the

their eyewear designs, neubau likes to take

When it comes to drawing inspiration for

collections.

that represent the highlights of their latest

with not just one, but two new double packs

Collection Shoot, NEUBAU sent us a package

version across all collections. For this issue’s

always released next to a matching women’s

ding to this tradition, a new men’s style is

create new styles in a double pack. Accor-

takes two to tango, the designers also like to

male and female first names. And because it

chant for naming their eyewear styles after

Austrian eyewear label NEUBAU has a pen-

COLLECTION SHOOT

Natural PX

a bold, yet understated appearance.

»Eva« are classic designs that lend their wearers

»Sigmund & Carl«. A dynamic duo, »Adam« and

cept already showcased in the sunglasses styles

styles featuring the new neubau hinge con-

photo shoot are »Adam« and »Eva«; prescription

The two collection standouts presented in our

combining light weight, flexibility and stability.

organic and renewable raw materials while

PX Collection: All styles are manufactured from

These values are embodied in the new natural-

NEUBAU

ja c ke t HUGO p a nts O F F - W H IT E b y AP ROP OS S T ORE w a tch T T S

»A d a m « & » E va «

COLLECTION SHOOT

s hi r t HU GO c ulott e CÃ&#x2030;L INE b y AP ROP OS S T ORE

COLLECTION SHOOT

sh ir t H UG O

»E va «

NEUBAU COLLECTION SHOOT

Stainless Steel The other half of the double pack – models »Nina« and

jacke t C HRIS T OP HER RAEBU RN sh i r t W U NDER W ERK

»Mark«

NEUBAU

pack, of course. neubau-eyewear.com

single: All styles are available “solo”, not just in a double

construction that is rich in detail. And no worries if you’re

ments and retaining a refined look thanks to their detailed

Both frames achieve a balance between making bold state-

more of an eyecatcher, inspired by elegant cat eye designs.

With its generous cut-outs, the female style »Nina« is even

ble bridge extending across the entire width of the frame.

male model is a modern take on aviator frames with a dou-

»Mark« – stems from the Stainless Steel Collection. The

COLLECTION SHOOT

NEUBAU »Mark« & »Nin a«

COLLECTION SHOOT

jacke t C HRISTOPHE R RAE BURN sh ir t WU NDE R WERK p ants VALE NTINO

s hi r t CÃ&#x2030;L INE b y AP ROP OS S T ORE t rou s e r s OF F - W HIT E b y AP ROP OS S T OR E r i n g & OT H E RS T ORIE S

COLLECTION SHOOT

sh ir t TSE b ra cele t YAE L r in g & e a r r in g s ELLI

pul lov e r VALE NTINO

photos S T E FA N D O N G US a ssis t a nt J A N A L UD W IG p rod uc tion F R IE D E R IKE CO E N E N d i git a l op e ra tin g CA R O R O S S s t yl in g J UL IA AT IT IÃ&#x2030; a t L IG AW E S T h air & m a ke -up A N S CH I a t L IG AW E S T t ale nts N IN A a t CO R E & YA N N a t E AS T W E S T MOD E L S re touch G L A MT O UCH

COLLECTION SHOOT

SILMO | PARIS | HALL 5 | BOOTH D 093

OW RO DR IL ND A R Y

BY STEFAN KAPFER c re a t i v e d i re c tion CL AU DIA F EL S ER p rod uc tion H6 0 OF F ICE d i g it al a ss i s t ant ANDRÃ&#x2030; F IS T ER s t yl in g DANIEL GOL ET Z h a ir & m ake - up L IS A a t 2 1 AGENCY loca t ion DU S S EL DORF

BARTON PERREIRA »For t un a« -

ca p & p a nt s P UM A top N O I S Y M AY s w e a t e r EL L ES S E sn e a ke r s EC C O

BARTON PERREIRA »De mois elle« -

dre ss JDY BY ONLY coa t NOBIS boots STE VE MADDE N

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »2242« -

blou s e 1 8 6 3 B Y E TE RNA p ants ONLY s ne ake r s PUMA

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »40-VI« -

ja c ke t O N LY d re ss N O I S Y M AY b o ot s VA G A B O N D

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »40-I I« -

jacke t ONLY dre ss NOIS Y MAY

IC! BERLIN »F e mm e Fa t al« -

d re ss PU M A

IC! BERLIN »T he R ebel« -

s hi r t P U MA

J . F. R E Y »Hor ne t« -

d re ss N OI S Y M AY s hi r t P I E C ES b e a n ie N E W ER A C A P

J . F. R E Y »C arbonwood JF2800« -

top NOIS Y MAY jacke t V ERO MODA s hor ts EL L ESSE boots S T EV E MADDE N

KALEOS »St amp e r« -

top JDY BY ONLY s w e a t e r WRANGLE R

KALEOS »Bran d« -

top J DY B Y O N LY sweater WRANGLER sk ir t R ES E R V E D b oot s S T E V E M A D D EN

KALEOS »B a skin« -

dre ss RES ERV ED jacke t W RANGL ER backp ack F ENT Y X P U MA boots S T EV E MADDEN

RALPH VAESSEN »K a t e« -

blou s e 1863 BY E TE RNA track suit PUMA ca p WRANGLE R s ne ake r s ADIDAS

A vision, evolving from a single line to a simple sketch. With passion leading our way we look for perfection and simplicity. Exploring new horizons, leaving conventions behind, stretching limitations and always giving it a special twist. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what makes us feel free. Free to be honest. Free to enjoy pure beauty. Free to create. Every moment, every day. For the past 20 years. And for many more to come.

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s celebrate! Visit us at SILMO 2018 Hall 5, Booth L140

SPECTR ARCHIVE

Spectr Archive

www.pinterest.com/spectrmagazine

The World’s Biggest Inspiration Source for Premium Eyewear

You want to get inspiration on more than 1.000 eyewear designs from many of the best and most fashionable labels? In our SPECTR Archive we show all frames – from the first edition to the current issue #24 – sorted by brands or shoots at locations all over the world.

DATE September 22-24

LOFT LV September 27-28

SILMO Sept. 28 - Oct. 01 Follow us on Instagram @myjfrey

IOFT October 22-24

CIOF November 10-12

ANNIVERSARY

»DO T Mono L10 13«

EXCITINGLY UNEXCITED MARKUS T – 20 Years German Engineering photos RAP HAE L SCHMITZ

MARKUS T » DO T Mono L 1 0 1 2 «

»DO T Mono L 1 0 1 5 «

DO T C ol le c t ion

MARKUS T, the innovative German designer eyewear label, is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. The brand based in Germany’s East Westphalia region spent the past two decades cultivating an understated German engineering approach. For the last two years, their “excitingly unexciting” frames have been manufactured in a transparent workspace nestled into the ambiance of a former grain liquor distillery. Celebrating the big birthday, company founder and namesake Markus Temming invited SPECTR to a journey through company history while unveiling two fresh-looking collections: the DOT Collection and the Edition 20. 87

ANNIVERSARY

DOT Collection from MARKUS T: filigree and with finesse.

This year already marks your 20th company anniversary. How do these

is the calling card of our brand. And by offering hand-crafted

two decades feel in hindsight?

quality Made in Germany, we have built a solid position over the

Eventful. Successful. And constantly like a new beginning.

years. Only by staying the course in terms of designs and technical

Perhaps it’s also because I love what I’m doing. Twenty years ago,

standards can we manage to delight our customers again and again

I started creating frames from a single piece of wire. This led to the very first markus t collection, the DESIGN Classic line. That was the initial impulse. Today we are a team of 100 people who share

over such a long time period. Speaking of time periods, what are your most relevant milestones in company history?

my vision and are constantly prepared to walk the path of challen-

Every new collection that we are genuinely happy with represents

ging products “Made in Germany” with me. This shared passion is

a small milestone for us. The development of our own proprietary

probably the most important foundation for keeping the faith for

TMi polymer and our own coloring process also marked some

20 years and delighting customers across the entire world.

major breakthroughs.

What were some of the most important challenges you had to overcome

And how about the move into the new workshop?

in order to make a name for yourself over this quite substantial period of

Aside from advancements in terms of technology and design, that

time?

was probably the most important milestone so far. And proba-

The industry is growing and more and more eyewear manufac-

bly the one that cost us the most energy. With a lot of heart-felt

turers are barging onto the market. Some of them seek out niche

engagement, we managed to create a transparent manufacturing

positions, while many tend to produce in a rather trend-oriented

site in the walls of a former grain liquor distillery. It turned out an

manner, thereby bringing new products to market at seasonal

incredibly amazing creative space which inspires and motivates us

intervals. And you pursue a different approach? Yes, quite radically so, which is a good thing. Of course we are open towards new impulses and trends in terms of design and

to exceed our own expectations for the next 20 years. You get the feeling that everything around here moves a bit more slowly. Like the opposite of a fast-paced environment. How important are quietness and continuity – both in your work and your products?

form language. But we also like to take it a step further by trans-

We do represent our own lifestyle, which we live from day to day

lating them into our own language. We reduce things down to

and that also reflects in our products and is something we like to

essentials and true beauty.

share with our target group. We are convinced that there is beauty within simplicity. And

How may we imagine this approach? Guided by the question, “Couldn’t this be done even better?” we

behind it all lies a confident emotional approach to life, marked by

depart from established standards to develop our own technically

effortlessness and a passion for design and perfection. Without

perfect solutions. In the process, we obtain an immense amount

having to follow conventions, because we have the freedom to

of know-how, which is why on the production side, we have

execute on our ideas all by ourselves. And this strong understate-

constantly been bringing our manufacturing steps in-house. This

ment is exactly what makes our brand and products attractive. It’s 88

ANNIVERSARY

The temples are flipped on their longitudinal axis by 90 degrees, flat from above and wafer-thin from the side.

lifestyle, hand-made in Germany.

Because they share our lifestyle. And because, as soon as they

And it’s also contagious. We see it in our customers and all visitors

have felt a pair of markus t glasses on their nose, they become

who we gladly provide with a glimpse into our everyday work and

convinced of the comfort aspects. markus t frames are unbeata-

the production of markus t eyewear. Whether it’s a group of

bly lightweight and practically maintenance-free. The materials,

opticians from Asia or up to 100 members of a local hobbyist club.

titanium and TMi, together with our coloring process make them

Those days are less quiet and tranquil, but just as wonderful.

extremely robust. Our lens fitting techniques and screw-less

Does that quiet approach also reflect in your designs?

hinges make it much easier for specialty retailers and opticians to

Yes, which brings us back to the theme of simplicity. In my eyes,

adjust our glasses.

the things that are beautiful are not the overloaded ones, but those

What kinds of new developments do you have in store for 2018?

stripped down to essentials. That also applies to fashion or for

We have refreshed our existing collections in the DESIGN, ME,

instance the food on my plate at a star-rated restaurant that places

TITAN and SUN lines with new shapes and colors. But, of course

the focus on product quality. Our products reflect our own emo-

there will be much more. An entirely new collection?

tional approach to life in their composition and expression. What is the importance of East Westphalia as a base for you?

Yes, the markus t DOT Collection.

It’s of utmost importance. Because our location also implies lots of

What’s the special feature?

understatement. We are not headquartered in Hamburg or Berlin.

The frames have horizontally aligned temples, meaning they have

But for us it’s the perfect location. Because it enables us to unite all

been flipped on their longitudinal axis by 90 degrees. By ways of

business and production processes we need in order to manufac-

this rotation, the collection assumes a unique expression: flat from

ture our products in one place. From the first sketches in a design

the top and paper-thin from the side. The collection is spectacular

to the technical development all the way to producing a final pro-

and unobtrusive at the same time.

duct – it all happens right here in Gütersloh Isselhorst. This makes

From a design perspective, what was the biggest technical challenge in

us entirely independent and we can work and create eyewear just

getting there?

the way we see fit.

Definitely fitting the thin titanium temples with a hinge

For me personally, the East Westphalia region offers a high quality

technology that actually works. Especially keeping in mind that

of life. Bielefeld for instance is much more manageable than other

all markus t eyewear models – including the DOT Collection –

large cities, but still offers a lot and has just the right size to expe-

function entirely without screws. We created a new plug connec-

rience this lightness of being in your private life. My family likes it

tion that is equally brilliant and simple. In how far?

here and it has become our home. What are the typical characteristics of MARKUS T frames?

When someone holds the frames in their hand and takes a closer look, they will understand immediately how the hinge functions:

They are excitingly unexciting. Why do people want to buy unexciting eyewear?

The lower part of the hinge turns whenever the temples move. 89

ANNIVERSARY

MARKUS T » E d ition 2 0 E2 0 1 0 «

»E d i tion 20 E 2 0 1 3 «

The Edition 20 models come in a limited edition.

The upper part offers a counterforce.

gent technology in a purist, timeless design.

And then there’s also an anniversary collection for 20 years of MARKUS T,

What will be keeping MARKUS T busy over the next 20 years? And how do

right?

you expect the optical landscape to change in that time?

Yes, the Edition 20. This one features the sideways hinges with an

It will be exhilarating to see which technologies the future holds

extra twist.

and what we will be able to implement on our side. We will conti-

What does it consist of?

nue to stay true to our philosophy and follow our own guidelines

We are combining our materials TMi and titanium. The basic ma-

in developing and designing eyewear.

terial of the frames will be titanium, which in combination with

Will independent designer labels continue to be viable on the market in the

strategically placed TMi unfolds brand-new facets, which is really

future?

exciting.

Yes, for the same reason why we have been successful on the

What else can you tell us about the Edition 20?

market for the past 20 years: The more complex the world is

The edition is available in a limited run: We will only manufacture

becoming over time, the more important it is to provide a counter

500 sets. Each set consists of four frames in different shapes, two

perspective. Therein lies our targeted approach where we provide

silver and two gold ones in each set. The Edition 20 will launch

orientation and a certain lightness by continuing to reduce things

into retail accompanied by a special point-of-sale presentation.

further. That not only makes us viable – it’s an absolute necessity

That way, we provide opticians with an uncomplicated but at the same time pretty exciting solution to showcase the Edition 20. This

for keeping us going. And where is your personal focus for the future?

will be supplemented by a small extra gimmick for end consumers

With our manufacturing headquarters we have created a room

that will allow them to capture ideas and get creative with it.

to live and work, because I place extremely great value in a solid

When are you launching?

work-life balance. As a father of three, I really enjoy spending time

We are premiering everything at the start of Silmo in Paris, which

with my family. At the same time, I just as much enjoy focusing

also marks the beginning of retail availability. So, we ask for a bit

on MARKUS T while constantly striving to remain faithful to

of patience until then.

myself and the brand and pushing it forward. Keeping my feet still

Will the anniversary edition also address a new target group? The primary focus will be with the special hinge technology.

for prolonged periods of time is really not something I know. On that note, here’s to another 20 timeless years.

With our new shapes for men and women, the DOT Collection and Edition 20 speak exactly to those customers who love intelli-

markus-t.com 90

LESS COLLECTION BY BELLINGER

COLLECTION SHOOT

PERSPE RELO

GÖTTI Plays

GÖTTI »PS05«

COLLECTION SHOOT

CTIVE ADED

With Shape And Color

GÖTTI »P S 0 6 « & » D C 0 8 «

We already introduced götti’s Perspective Collection when it launched last year. Today we are showcasing the latest evolution of the rimless eyewear collection, which makes clear once and for all that rimless frames don’t have to be boring or conservative. The Zurich-based label proves just the opposite: The new iteration of the Perspective Collection makes a bold statement both in terms of shapes and colors. 93

photos S T EFAN DONGUS a ss i s t ant J ANA L UDWIG p roduc tion F RIEDE RIKE COE NE N d i gi t al op e ra ti n g CARO ROSS clothi n g GY’ BEL L h ai r & m ake - up ANSCHI a t LIGAWE ST t ale nts J IL L a t S E E DS & DANIE L a t CORE

COLLECTION SHOOT

When it comes to designing rimless frames, the shape of the lenses tends to be the main factor determining the overall look. And lens shapes receive a playful treatment in the Perspective Collection all the way into avant-garde territory. Following their Radical Playground concept, götti creatively elevates fundamental shapes such as circles and rectangles into entirely new dimensions. The resulting shapes

GÖTTI »RA01«

GÖTTI »RA02«

COLLECTION SHOOT

are rather hard to categorize according to established eyewear design typology. The equally innovative and playful shapes make an even bolder statement thanks to the otherwise understated form language of rimless frames. For the typical layer of götti finesse, the lenses are fitted to the stainless steel with minimum hardware; following a proprietary screw-less concept.

GÖTTI » PS0 6 «

COLLECTION SHOOT

götti pursues an equally self-confident course in choosing the

tints of their lenses, also with a healthy dose of playful style. Aside from classic reflective surfaces, the new collection also hits on current trends by adding soft hues and bold colorways from the yellow and red side of the color spectrum. The verdict: Frameless does not have to mean style-less, and we are great fans of the Perspective Collection “Made in Switzerland”. So much so that we have staged the new glasses for this issue’s cover shoot in a fitting stylistic ambiance. gotti.ch

GÖTTI »D C07«

Fitting: GY’BELL. Founded by designer Isabell Schruf, the minimalistic couture and prêt-à-porter brand represents young & sporty ready-to-wear. The unique female, male and accessory items are exclusively handcrafted in Cologne, Germany. With its significant ”raw edges”, GY’BELL goes way beyond regular sportswear. Every single piece is a haptic experience. 96

PLAYING THE ELEM

BRAND PROFILE

MATERIKA’s Mix of Materials

photos RAPHAE L SCHMITZ

Inspired by the stunning beauty of its native mountain landscape, Look The Concept Factory manufactures eyewear according to traditional craftsman methods in the heart of the Dolomite mountains. And for over 40 years, at that. Like many other brands from the bootshaped country, Look The Concept Factory flies the “Made in Italy” banner with pride and confidence. True to their ethos, all frames are manufactured entirely in Italy, then shipped from Campolongo di Cadore into over 60 countries worldwide. The brand achieves a rare design symbiosis of tradition and modernity, which always surprises with new technical innovations. Behind every new eyewear style lies a certain idea that informs the form language of the respective model. Through it all, four decades of eyewear expertise shine in every aspect of eyewear manufacturing. As opposed to other labels that are founded on a certain material, a special technology or a highly specialized target group, the company from the southern tip of the Alps caters to a broad spectrum. At the upper end of the sophistication scale is the materika Collection. It blends the company’s rich material processing expertise with the uniquely Italian design sensibilities. As the collection name suggests, much of materika’s identity revolves around the material from which the frames are crafted. The name is derived from the Latin terms “materia” and “cum”, meaning “belonging to the material or raw matter”. The frame designs always focus on the different mechanical and aesthetic features of the raw material used in their construction. materika leverages the different material properties and the resulting possibilities. This approach

M AT E R I K A

also includes blends of various materials in order to expand the range

» 7 5 3 3 3 .4 9 «

of opportunities even further. The result is a true cornucopia of refined material executions. The entire MATERIKA collection is based on five material groups: acetate, titanium, Kombinato, Nil, Alumix. lookocchiali.it

WITH ENTS

BRAND PROFILE

M AT E R I K A » 7 0 5 2 3 .5 3 «

» 7 0 5 2 0 .4 7 «

Acetate requires no special introduction. The purely plant-based cellulose acetate has been a mainstay in eyewear design for decades. The compact and moldable acetate feels warm to the touch and can be cut and engraved effortlessly. In the Acetate Collection, materika skillfully plays with surfaces and hollowed-out constructions.

» 7 5 3 3 2 .4 7 «

The Titanium Collection is regarded as the essence of materika. Crafted from high-grade titanium, the frames walk a fine line between visible and invisible characteristics. The ultrathin and featherlight frames excel with a bold design, but make an understated impression due to their delicate construction.

BRAND PROFILE

As the name suggests, Kombinato describes a harmonious combination between two materials. The main focus lies with the aesthetic interplay between the raw materials in a frame. Smart and refined solutions for blending different raw resources define this collection and its unique aesthetic.

M AT E R I K A »70518.48«

»70515.49«

Nil is the name of a proprietary and highly moldable polymer created by Look The Concept Factory. The polymer frame elements with their translucent surfaces, satin textures and opal colorways are joined by titanium bolts to achieve a unique look.

»75 3 3 7 .4 7 «

»75335.53«

»70513.55«

The Alumix line owes its name to the combination of two elements: aluminum and magnesium in a new alloy that is light, non-magnetic, atoxic and surprises with a warm touch, especially for a metal. The three-dimensional design options and innovative textures unlock a new perspective on industrially processed metal.

»70530.48« 100

Essence Mod. 5523 GT 3535 Rose Spirit / © Silhouette / valid until 09. 2019

YOU´ LL NEVER WANT TO WEAR ANYTHING ELSE AGAIN. Incomparably light. Extraordinarily comfortable. Try it. Wear it. Love it. www.silhouette.com

Ca an td h yp a t t y

BY RAPHAEL SCHMITZ cre a ti v e d i re c tion AT IL A GIRGIN a t W ER K2 s t yli n g MART INA NEL L ES h ai r & m ake - up KERS T IN HÃ&#x153; S GES mod els CAT HY MARANCA a t P MA MODELS & PAT T Y R U IS S EN a t NO T OYS MODEL S p os tp roduc tion T IM WACHNOW S KI loca tion RENES S E

102

S A LT. »T heodore« -

u n d e r w e a r IN T IM ISSIM I ja cke t L E VIS r in g s FOOL S GOL D

S A LT. »G e r r y« -

b ra INT IMIS S IMI ca p NEW ERA p ants ES S ENT IAL ANT W ERP

103

FA C E À FA C E »B l a s t 1« -

jacke t GU CCI p ants MARL ENE BIRGER ne ckl ace F OOL S GOL D hi g h heels & ba g ZARA

104

FA C E À FA C E »Ja d d e 1« -

ja c ke t M A R L E N E B I R G E R ca t su it ZA R A r in g s G UC C I & F O O L D S G O L D

105

106

SILHOUETTE

»9010«

»8695«

pu l lov e r & sk ir t G I A N N I

le a the r jacke t MICHAEL KORS

s ho e s A D I D A S B Y S T EL L A M C C A RTNEY

blou s e RITA L AGU NE

b a g G UC C I

s ki r t ZARA

b ra cele t F O O L S G O L D

r i n g GU CCI s hoe s ST YLIST’S OWN

107

108

M AT E R I K A

»70530.48«

»75332.47«

d e n i m C LOS E D

r i n g F OOL S GOL D

blou s e ST E L L A M C C A RT N EY sho e s & b a g BALE N C I A G A 109

KBL »Tr iumph« -

dre ss & jacke t RITA L AGU NE

110

KBL »L u x e mbou rg« -

d re ss M A R C E L O S T ERTAG ja c ke t R I TA L A GU NE b ra I N T I M I S SIMI

111

LIEBESKIND BERLIN »11034« -

pullov e r & s ki r t J IL SANDE R blou s e MARL ENE BIRGE R socks GU CCI

112

L o To Hk Eo u t

M E T R O P O L I TA N »8260« -

sh ir t C A LV I N K L EI N

114

M E T R O P O L I TA N »8259« -

s hi r t & s ki r t J IL S ANDE R

BY ANGELIKA BUETTNER s t ylin g R OD N OVOA a t C RE AT I V E S PA C E A RT I S T S . C O M h ai r DA M IA N M ON Z IL L O a t C R EAT I V E S PA C E A RT I S T S . C O M m ake -up R E N E E GARN E S a t N E X T A RT I S T S F O R S T L L A C OS MET ICS mod els TERE Z A BU C HAL OV O A a t W O M EN 3 6 0 N Y C & S P ENCER a t CL ICK MODEL S NYC p os tp ro d uc t ion BE N E D IK T E M ES L I N loca t ion THE LOOK OU T HOU S E, C O N N E C T I C UT, US A

115

BELLINGER »LE S S -1882« -

shir t PLAT IN O D E M AR Q UI S p a nts & t ie D IOR HO M M E

116

BELLINGER »LE S S -1881« -

d re ss J U LIA J EN T ZS C H

117

FLEYE »Cr ippa« -

jacke t & p ants SAINT LAURE NT

FLEYE »Hunt e r« -

p ants MICHAE L KORS s hi r t BARNE Y ’S NY

118

FLEYE »C oca« -

b a t h in g su it N O R M A K A M A LI ra incoa t T O P S H O P

119

MAKELLOS »A d elhe i d« -

dre ss S AINT LAURE NT

120

MAKELLOS »L ou vre« -

ba th e r s CALVIN KLE IN heel s NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

121

MARKUS T »M3350« -

blou s e M SGM p a nts M IC HAE L K OR S

122

MARKUS T »T2285« -

s hi r t TOPSHOP

123

INVU »B2821C« -

su it & sh ir t D IOR HOMME

INVU »T2901C« -

dre ss BAL MAIN

loca tion T HE L OOKOU T HOU S E IN WILTON, CT, USA for s ale for 7. 5 Mill b y Deborah B ur n am an 124

v i a W IL L IAM RAV EIS L U XURY PROPE RTIE S

COLLECTION SHOOT

The color of aceTate

ØRGREEN’s New Collection in Minimal Vintage s t ills ED A C A L I S T I

ØRGREEN is exploring a new material: acetate. The Scandinavian label otherwise known for premium quality titanium has previously branched out into frame designs from horn, exotic woods and mother-of-pearl, achieving exciting material blends in the process. In their latest collection, the Danish design powerhouse premieres its own unique perspective on the rather widely used material acetate. This may come as a surprise. But everyone familiar with ØRGREEN also knows that it’s a carefully weighed decision. For the company focused on Hello Sahra, as Senior Color Designer at ØRGREEN you are exclusively color variations like hardly any other brand, the concerned with the subject of color. Quite an unusual job, isn’t it? move into acetate opens a wide range of design Yes, this is an unusual job, only a few companies prioritize or understand the power of colors. opportunities. SPECTR discusses the challenges What exactly do you mean by “power of colors”? and opportunities of working with acetate with I create our color collections, the ideas and how to realize the tones on the different materials we work with together with our skilled the label’s Senior Color Designer Sahra Lysell. color factories. For example, our titanium frames are hand-painted in Japan, many of them are two-toned, and we have to find colors that will work well together, not only in how they look but how they react in production when placed on top of each other. But that sounds like something other companies would do as well. It gets a bit more technical. It takes a long time to finalize a color collection. The paint we use has to be durable against the skin and comply with multiple legal and environmental regulations. As we do not use standard colors but create all color tones ourselves, we have many steps to go through before we are ready to go into production. 126

COLLECTION SHOOT

ØRGREEN Senior Color Designer Sahra Lysell

»Daniel«

»Miss V ickie« »Jill«

»Nick«

Okay, that does sound a lot more complex.

minimal and consistent. They have different expressions in the

We develop colors with the same level of dedication used on

material itself. I can do transparent hues in acetate, whereas tita-

developing our frame designs. And we spend as much time on the

nium is solid. So these are two very different ways to work, and I

color concept as we do on the design concept.

love to be able to work with both. Sometimes one can inspire the

What is the significance of color for ØRGREEN?

other.

Feelings. We add feelings to our designs. The feeling of femininity,

In how far?

masculinity, being daring, seductive or powerful. The feeling of

For example, we have added a “tortoiseshell pattern” on titanium,

being a free spirit, the spirit of youth or the spirit of knowledge.

which of course is inspired from the acetate. It is executed diffe-

We do colors that reflect society. We understand that we can reach

rently in titanium but works very well.

different personalities not only by the designs but also by colors.

Are there different requirements for the design of acetate glasses than for

For example, we do mono colors for the minimalist and two-tone

titanium frames?

colors for the adventurist.

The strongest tool we have in this company is that we are able to

ØRGREEN has always been known for its focus on colors in its titanium

create and understand the right lines for a face. So the answer is

frames. Now you have launched an acetate collection for the first time.

yes and no. But you have to understand the benefits and down-

What was the motivation for this?

sides of the material you work with. And understand how to make

To offer the ørgreen take on the acetate world.

the downsides work to your advantage.

Does this open up new possibilities in terms of coloring?

To come back to the new collection, which colors were used and why? We have been working under the headline Minimal Vintage.

Totally, acetate is a smooth and warm material and titanium is 127

HIGHLIGHTS

ØRGREEN »Da vi d«

»Ma tthe w«

»B e r n ard«

»Paolo«

Colors that reflect modern minimalistic echoes, building a bridge

your manufacturers?

between nostalgic and contemporary feelings. It definitely smells

No matter the distance, we only work with the best factories in

a lot like the North but also has a lot of references to the West.

the world. Communication is done by mail, phone, Skype, samples

What does this mean for the choice of color?

are sent back and forth and we do factory visits in all parts of the

It’s a balanced combination of transparent, semitransparent and

world to make every collection successful.

solid hues, some colors laminated together to reference both past

Now a glimpse into the crystal ball. What are the color trends for the

and future. A favorite of mine is the Sand/ Smoke, a lamination

coming season?

that is cool, minimal, feminine and nostalgic at the same time.

The boundaries of what people consider female and male colors

Was it difficult to realize these colors?

are broken – this brings color combinations to a new level.

We had a clear vision of what the first collection should reflect and

You mean pink is the new blue? Interesting. Last but not least, what are

consist of, so I had a good idea of what the colors should look like.

your favorite colors right now?

Are there any other special features in this collection?

Right now, it is the best summer we have ever had in Copenha-

The color features are subtle classics with a hint of the “old school

gen. In this weather, I like to wear nude pale colors combined with

ørgreen color DNA”, like blue, red, moss green, yellow and pink.

a small hint of a strong color. My favorite pair of sunnies right now

But the final look is Minimal Vintage – and actually very urban.

is »Jill« in A14.

The finest color nuances play an important role to you. How did you manage to communicate the specifics of the colors in detail across the distance to

orgreenoptics.com 128

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.DaTe .Florence .Italy 22.24/9 // Area Luxury L35 â&#x20AC;¢ .Silmo .Paris .France 28/9 - 1/10 // Hall 5 L130

COLLABO OF THE ISSUE

Antique Silver / Grey Shield

Antqiue Gold / Black Shield

The Voyage

SALT. Teams Up With AETHER photos EDA CAL IS T I

What’s the outcome when a California-based premium eyewear label joins forces with experts for outdoor wear for everyday use? You’re in for a functional pair of spectacles fit for urban adventurers and nature lovers alike. This is exactly what SALT. and AETHER have achieved with a pair of sunglasses that’s state-of-the-art both in terms of design and functionality. 130

AETHER demonstrates its textile competence in the case.

COLLABO OF THE ISSUE

Black Sand / Red Shield

Black Sand / Black Shield

salt. has represented a close connection to nature from day one.

Inspiration from the natural world looms large over their shapes, colors, and designs. Meanwhile, the technically advanced aether

S A LT. X A E T H E R

brand is all about blending a timeless urban aesthetic with functional

»Voya ge«

outdoor clothing that works from hiking in the woods all the way to getting to the next business meeting. With the »Voyage« sunglasses collection, the two brands achieve a high level of on-trend design and premium finish. This level of elevated finish continues the salt. tradition for craftsmanship, as this new frame – much like all of the brand’s titanium frames – is hand-made in Japan. The flexible silicon sidewalls block light entering from the sides, while polarized photochromatic lenses adjust their tint to the current lighting conditions. The implementation of Memory Metal on the nose bridge and top bar lends the frames maximum flexibility. The tips of the beta titanium temples reveal the collabo logo in a laser engraving. True to form, the premium frames are shipped in a water-proof nylon case which is once again perfect for outdoor adventures. The collection includes color choices from brown-tinted lenses and red silicon touches all the way to ultra-sleek black-on-black, thereby offering a choice for every wearer. Blending the best of two worlds and the expertise of two leading brands at the top of their individual game, this one packs styles for miles – whether you’re out about town or taking a stroll through the wilderness.

The flexible silicone shield protects from the side.

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PICK OUT

YAMAMOTO »YY3021« & »YY3023« Refined Designs of a Fashion Icon

photos RAP HAE L S C H M I T Z For a breath of fresh air in terms of eyewear designs, look no further than the new yohji yamamoto collection. Underneath the surface, the driving force behind the new

Y O H J I YA M A M O T O

models »YY 3021« and »YY 3023« is a breakthrough in

» YY3 0 2 1 «

material sciences. The Duralumin aluminum alloy coating allows, in combination with beta titanium temples, for ultra-light frame designs. And true eye catchers, at that! The nose pads and temples also received a face lift for the new collection. True to the yohji yamamoto design tradition, the features and silhouettes of the frames are

»YY3023«

nothing short of disruptive. The Japanese design icon achieves this feat by stripping away specific elements. He also realizes – much like the world of fashion design – a harmonious interplay of various materials and color compositions, all the while going for an understated look. The two models featured here combine their delicate and clean lines and high-grade materials into a self-confident overall package that lends the wearer a unique aura that’s bound to make an impact. brandoeyewear.com

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conc stat photos ST E FAN D ON G US a ssis t a nt s JAN A L U DW I G & G R EG O R T H EI S p ro d uc t ion & s t yli n g F R I ED E R I K E C O EN E N r unne r s M AT T IS VAUT H & R EN Ã&#x2030; P R O K O P h a ir & m a ke - up E VA -M A R I A P I L A RT Z a t 2 1 A G EN C Y t a le nts HE N N A a t VIVA M O D E L S & M A X a t C O R E lo ca tion LAN GE N FOUN D AT I O N 134

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rete ement

LINDBERG 2018 Eyewear Highlights shot in Tadao Ando’s Architectural Masterpiece lindberg has enjoyed a reputation for timeless Scandinavian

design for decades. The brand’s main focus remains on utmost quality in a reductionist, clean form language. In terms of materials, the Danish designer label has proven quite versatile: High-grade titanium is a staple in each collection, but lindberg has been known to blend the advantages of adjustable and lightweight titanium

LINDBERG

temples with other materials. Recent results include the Acetanium

» E d win«

Collection crafted from acetate and titanium, the Buffalo Titanium

Collection blending titanium temples with horn frames, and the

s hi r t T IGER OF S W ED E N

Trae-Buffalo Collection adding a layer of wood for a refined finish.

p ants W EEKDAY s ne ake r s ADIDAS 135

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The past few years have also been marked by an influx of modern styles into the collection. lindberg designers have surprised audiences with special shapes and carefully chosen details that defy expectations. In our opinion, the current collection is a real banger in terms of designs. It packs plenty of loud styles to help the most modern-minded cosmopolitans in 2018 make a state-of-the-art

LINDBERG »8604«

»L e x« -

shi r t S E LE C T E D F E M M E c ulott e s HOU S E OF D A G M A R s n e a ke r s R EEB O K

»8414« -

s hi r t T IGER OF S W EDEN 136

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»8410« -

dre ss SAMSØE & SAMSØE

Langen Foundation A work of art made of glass, steel and concrete – from the Japanese architect Tadao Ando masterfully staged on a former rocket station.

»2324« -

s hi r t T IGER OF S W EDEN

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»8201«

blou s e MODS T RÖM

s hi r t & p ants WE E KDAY

s ki r t MADS NØRGAARD

s ne ake r s ADIDAS

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LINDBERG »2347 « -

s hi r t B O O H O O M A N p a nt s C O N V E R S E

»2352« -

s hi r t S EL ECT ED F EMME

appearance and draw attention. Through it all, the most important feature of all lindberg frames remains constant: They are never “over the top” but despite all the eccentric touches and finesse always remain wearable. Achieving this precarious balance is a fine line, and the Danish brand walks it like no other. In our current photo shoot, we focus on the most striking new models – most of them pure-play titanium frames or Acetanium hybrids.

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Watch the on-location video from the photo shoot on spectr-magazine.com in the Motion section

LINDBERG »2327« -

sh ir t M O D S T R Ö M c u lot t e s S E L EC T E D F E M M E sn e a ke r s R E EB O K

»8413« -

s hir t TIGE R OF SWE DE N

As the location for our Collection Shoot, we chose the Langen Foundation. The building – designed by Tadao Ando and located on a former NATO rocket base – is in a league of its own among the world’s photo and film locations. The Japanese super star architect skillfully blended – much like lindberg – a host of different materials in creating the Langen Foundation building. Except that he worked with concrete, steel, and glass, rather than titanium, acetate, horn or wood. But

»C a m ill a «

nevertheless, it creates the perfect backdrop for lindberg’S new fashion styles. lindberg.com 140

Find us at SILMO Booth D 149. Hall 5a kaleoseyehunters.com @kaleoseyehunters

HOME STORY

FAMILY AFFAIR

LASNIK | Austrian Eyewear Multitasking photos S TEFA N DO NGU S

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Beyond the Alps in the scenic Styria region, an optician’s family has set out to write a unique chapter of eyewear history. The Lasnik family’s optical store is a hotbed of activity located in the town of Rosental. It is not only home to an impressive portfolio of exclusive independent labels, but also the headquarters of the family business; the place where Gerald Lasnik and sons Martin and Andreas design their own products and manage their marketing and sales efforts. For this issue’s home story, SPECTR visits the family business for an entire day to learn more about the region, the family and its projects – of which there are many. We learn that their approach is marked by a tremendous pragmatism, despite the differences in character between these three personalities. This is supplemented by the dynamics of a true family unit that works together and functions as a team; also because the three used to play on the same soccer team 20 years ago. Welcome to the Lasnik family story.

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towards making our own store was honestly not an easy one. But

First of all, thanks for the hearty welcome and picking us up at Graz airport. The scenery on the drive over to Rosental does have some provincial charms.

it has been the best decision my father could have ever made! And you, Andreas, also came into the optical trade back then? andreas: Yes, age 16 was when I started working at our company

gerald: Well, it’s not exactly urban out here. With our 1,600 in-

habitants we are no global metropolis – but we are on the fast track to get there. We love it provincial and personal, though.

for one year. Why only for one year? andreas: Because I then fulfilled my childhood dream by signing

What is unique about life south of the Alps? gerald: Most of all the climate, you can really feel the proximity

to the Adriatic. From Rosental it’s only a two-and-a-half-hour

my first contract as a pro football player. Where did that career path take you?

drive south and you’re lying on the beach. And if we’re in the

andreas: Up until January 2016, I played for clubs in Austria,

mood for skiing, that’s just two hours north in Schladming. Our

Germany, the Netherlands, and Greece.

geographic location is a real plus.

What happened then? andreas: Then I ended my career as a

You are not only opticians but also deal with

pro footballer after 14 years in order

processes in marketing, design, and sales. Is

to fully focus on the family business.

that even possible in this location?

That’s a rather unconventional entry

martin: This is really a positive aspect

into the eyewear business. Martin, how

of globalization. You can realize your

far did your ball playing skill take you in

ideas and visions from pretty much any location on the planet. The oppor-

your prime?

tunities related to the internet are ac-

martin: Up until the Third League,

tually pretty cool. But everyone needs

but that was the max. We were a total

to also head out and experience the

football family. There even was one

whole wide world to form an opinion.

particular championship game when

You need to know what is happening

all three of us played on the field

on the eyewear market and where the

together and my dad shot me a pass to

entire journey is headed.

set up a goal. These are moments you never forget.

Nevertheless, have you considered setting

Your store is set up on a main street

up shop somewhere else? Graz? Or Vienna?

between two towns. So, you hardly get

andreas: That’s a recurring topic

of course. Funny enough, we had a

any walk-in customers, right?

request last year to open a store in Los

gerald: No, we don’t get any walk-in

Angeles. California would indeed be

customers. People who pass through

super cool, but we also primarily need our family and team as our lifeline. The right employees for this kind of endeavor are few and far between and

Gerald – the craftsman. When he’s not serving customers, he designs new technical solutions in the workshop. Features such as the SEEOO pince-nez.

our door definitely want something specific from us. We have excellent parking right outside, plus a bus stop. So that is a definite plus. What characterizes your business?

there is only finite energy. So for now we are focused on eyeshaker and

martin: We love what we do! Our

seeoo. The rest will happen as it may.

customers can feel it from the first second. We have evolved in both areas – fashion and eyewear. Au-

More about that later, but let’s talk about your beginnings first. What led

thenticity is really the key word here. Aligning with the pulse of

you into the eyewear business? gerald: I started my training as an optician in 1972. Back then,

our times in terms of craft and fashion is not always easy. It costs

our job was still 80 percent about craft, so I had the chance to

tremendous time and energy, but customers definitely appreciate

learn “hand-made eyewear” from the ground up. This sparked my

it.

passion for the optical trade. In 1996, your son Martin then opened his own retail store. What was the motivation?

You are far more widely known than conventional opticians. That is also due to the fact that you have expanded your reach and designed your own product. What was the impulse?

martin: Honestly, I did not really gel with school. And when my

gerald: All three of us have a high affinity for design. Our seeoo

dad told me about plans for opening our own store, I was on fire

project was the starting point for sketching out and implementing

about the idea. His football career brought him all over the region,

our own ideas. We are really not much about theory, which is evi-

so he had many friends who instantly supported us. The step

dent in our products. We work really closely with our customers

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in our store, recognize their needs and wishes. At the end of the

keting, production, sales and so on. So you need to weigh your de-

day, glasses not only need to look great, but also perform!

cisions, especially since we have no external investors as back-up.

Which factors enabled you to develop your own products?

You have already successfully built several product segments. What is

andreas: We are enabling ourselves. It’s not like you need to ask

your approach? Do you start with a market analysis?

anyone’s permission. After all, the responsibility and risks are

martin: When it comes to a passion and customer needs, we

all on you. We may not have studied design or the like, but we

don’t need any market analyses. The initial idea, the thought,

have such different skillsets that the sum of our abilities is rather

has to resonate with us first. I need to want to carry the idea, use

unique. Good gut feeling, passion, drive, and a feel for shapes and

the idea – that’s our main point of reference.

trends – these are really hard-to-learn traits.

andreas: Sometimes you really just need to get started. You can’t

Does it help that your business spans two generations?

always overthink everything! Prototypes are developed, altered,

martin: It’s not always easy to align two generations but it’s defi-

adapted, and marketing plans are created and also adjusted. So it’s

nitely worth it. Drawing on these different perspectives and skills

a continuously fluent process. But above all, the most important

is definitely a cool opportunity!

thing is that YOU are happy with the final

Some people may insist on always se-

result. At the end of the day, there’s also our

parating business and private affairs.

own name on it.

You’re running a counter model. Is

What was your first excursion beyond your own

that working for you?

optical store?

gerald: I believe that when you

gerald: Around 2009 I made an assessment

are pursuing something that’s

of the reading glasses segment. And I noticed

your passion, and when the

that there was nothing catering to “quick

entire family is also on board,

reading”. That marked the birth of seeoo.

there is no “private” or “pro-

What is behind the concept?

fessional”. Then it’s just your

gerald: With seeoo, everything is really

life! But of course, we insist

focused on just one application. The pince-

on a clear separation of tasks,

nez is an addition to people’s reading glasses,

otherwise total chaos would be

sunglasses, sports glasses or contact lenses.

inevitable.

It excels by offering a small form factor and

How is that structured?

manageable design, and most of all by its

gerald: It all boils down to

quickness. Combined with the phone case,

self-realization, meaning to

people always have a sharp focus on eve-

know your own strengths and

rything – and it’s all Made in Austria. We are

weaknesses. We are incredibly

really proud of that.

fortunate to bring three entirely different strengths to the table. Tell us more... martin: Papa is the technician.

Martin – the creative. With his feeling for good design and his knowledge of the market, he is always at the pulse of time.

At this point you are also offering frames with temples. Has it become a full-fledged collection? martin: Absolutely. There’s something

He designs and builds proto-

about being able to wear a full pair of glasses

types, develops new hinges or

on your nose. For the pince-nez, we have

temple principles, works on

created a really special form, which we now

manufacturing. For him everything is total CRAFT!

transferred to a large eyewear frame. It was an important goal

Andreas handles implementation. He brings everything into

for us to design a full-fledged collection around the pince-nez to

practice. Andreas comes from the realm of pro sports. Judgement

strengthen the brand positioning. And it also allows us to live our

of character, determination and goal-oriented thinking are a must

passion for eyewear design.

in that field. Having access to his network is also a great plus.

But aren’t you risking becoming a competitor to the brands you are carry-

andreas: And Martin is the creative mind with a great feel for de-

ing in your store?

sign. He can recognize trends and keep us up to date. His intuition

andreas: No, just the opposite. seeoo is part of our business and

and market knowledge are indispensable for our company.

is displayed with all the other brands. We even managed to launch

Is it important for you that new products work rather quickly?

collaborations with other brands. Do you have an example?

gerald: We have the optical store as a background, which has

always been our foundation. But the risks are getting increasingly

andreas: ic! berlin has been a staple brand at our store from the

higher, the stakes are getting bigger. Now we are talking about mar-

start. We have been working with them for two years now and

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have now even produced an entire collection with the Berlin-

Who are the users?

based manufacturing outfit. And because the seeoo shape is

andreas: The eyeshaker is ideal for everyone who wears glas-

unique, we also don’t risk interfering with each other on the mar-

ses, whether they are sunglasses or RX-models. Our vision is to put an eyeshaker in every household and every office.

ket and only stand to profit from each other. Is the particular shape an important visual differentiator for your brand?

And? Is the vision becoming reality?

martin: Yes! In order not to get lost in the eyewear jungle, you

martin: The demand is constantly increasing. The eyeshaker

have to build a profile as an independent brand somehow. We

has been getting a great response, since it’s an easy way to clean

secured this brand recognition via the shape of our glasses. The

your entire frame in a quick and simple manner. And it also looks

seeoo shape, meaning the rounded shape with the corner, is

cool on top of that.

really an eye catcher and runs through the entire collection.

The product is also perfectly suited towards collaborations.

What are the specific challenges for building your own brand?

andreas: Yes, in April we started a collaboration with Mini Aust-

ria. And we want to expand collaborations in the future, but only

gerald: Aside from constantly implementing new ideas to make

reading easier for our customers, it has to be selling the product in

with brands that are the right fit for us. You also have products beyond seeoo and eyeshaker under the lasnik

the entire world.

brand name. Among other things, you have designed a special jacket for

In how far?

opticians. What was the reason?

gerald: The internati-

onal business with all

martin: We consider glasses

its challenges is not easy

as an accessory that can be

to navigate and it takes

worn with pride. That’s why

having the right partner

we have created a jacket that

on-site.

allows for wearing your glasses

How have opticians responded

in a visible manner on your

to the offering?

body at all times.

gerald: Generally

So it’s only for opticians?

speaking, opticians don’t

martin: Of course not. We are

currently considering ways to

like to sell ready-made products. We know this too well from our own business. We now have to communicate to opticians

Andreas – the pragmatist. The former professional footballer brings things up and has access to a large network in sports and fashion.

make the jacket more famous, but we are taking it step by step. We still have a few other projects in the works.

that they should not sell

Do you have any examples?

the pince-nez as the main

andreas: In August, we laun-

pair of glasses, but as an

ched our collaboration with David Alaba, which we are really excited about.

addition to their existing glasses to enable quick reading on-thego. But getting the advantages of upselling across to them is not

A pair of glasses? andreas: Of course.

always easy. The reading glasses could also be considered competitors to best-sellers

What else can we expect from you in the future?

such as varifocals, right?

gerald: We want to keep letting our fashion ideas roam free in the

martin: Absolutely not! The reading glasses or pince-nez should

future. We already started by launching our first jacket collection.

be sold as an add-on to varifocals. The pince-nez in particular has

But fashion is also an entirely different business that you need to know

its very own use case and helps customers to read a menu or a text

how to navigate. martin: Fashion will surely never become our main business, but

message in a simple and quick manner. Do you sell your products across other channels? martin: We are very successful in selling via airlines on board of

we find it exciting and have a good network. That sounds rather unusual.

their planes. At this point, our products are listed with Austrian

andreas: Yes, but as an active pro footballer I was invited to

Airlines, Lufthansa and Swiss Airlines and we are looking to expand

fashion shows by Dolce & Gabbana and have maintained that

this side of the business in the future.

connection over the years. We have been invited to several shows

In 2017, you added another product to your portfolio with EYESHAKER. How did that idea come about?

through the years and know each other well. Sounds like you have a lot to look forward to. Best of luck.

andreas: We noticed that there was great demand in the cleaning

lasnikeyeworks.com

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D E TA I L S

ETNIA BARCELONA » L e s t a t«

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MICRO FRAMES FOR A F T E R M I D N I G H T Elaborate Acetate Newies from ETNIA BARCELONA photos EDA CALISTI

With its latest collection, etnia barcelona celebrates the comeback of micro sunglasses in a range fitted with midnight blue-tinted lenses. True to the Spanish label’s #BeAnartist approach, these tiny glasses seamlessly fit their overall philosophy. Along those lines, every single frame represents an approach to life. And every perspective is unique, entirely personal, and incomparable to anything else. Aside from metal frames, the new line with its 37 designs also contains glasses crafted from natural acetate. Highlights of the collec-

»C a r mill a «

tion include the two models »Carmilla« and »Lestat«, named in honor of 1990s vampire movies and manufactured in a limited edition run. Their most striking details include rounded shapes and coatings in various colors and structures. Much like the intended wearers of these shades – we’re talking about vampires here – the glasses themselves are designed to be immortal, for instance via the addition of highly scratch-resistant mineral lenses. What’s more, the various colorways of the »Carmilla« model literally shimmer mysteriously upon exposure to light. The cat eye style is available in five colorways. The male counterpart – the »Lestat« – appears to cater towards nostalgic longings for the late 20th century with a solid dose of Grunge style. With their new micro frames, etnia barcelona proves a sure hand for of-the-moment trends. And with their lightly tinted lenses, these new shades are the perfect companion for all those who wear their sunglasses at night – with a certain sense of timeless elegance, of course. etniabarcelona.com 149

pw li at yh m e

BY EDISONGA h a ir & m a ke -up AS T RID S CHEP PAN a t L IGANORD s t yl in g A L EX A NDRA HECKEL a t L IGANORD mod el s D O N ATA a t MEGA MODEL AGENCY & MAS HA a t M4 MODEL S p rod uc t ion & ca s ti n g TAMARA S ARIS CHW IL I loca t ion B ER L IN

ØRGREEN »Osak an« -

jumpsuit OIL coa t &OTHE RSTORIE S

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ØRGREEN »2.05« -

t u r t le n e c k M OL L I s w e a t e r S AN D R O ja c ke t WRAN GL ER ski r t S T E IN OHN E R 151

COBLENS »Dre hz ahlm e ss e r« -

p a nt s IVY & O A K blou s e A R K ET s lipp e r s S HOE PA S S I O N s ca r f T OM TA I L O R

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KARMOIE »Pl a y e r« -

ju mp e r & s kir t S T E I N R O H N E R

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MARTIN & MARTIN »S am« -

hood ie S A N DRO sk ir t & e a r r in g s & O T HERS T ORIES

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MARTIN & MARTIN »Ve ra« -

blou s e OIL p ants W OOD W OOD socks ES S ENT IAL ANT W ERP

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LINDBERG »1044« -

top M AL A I K A R A I S S blou s e O I L

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LINDBERG »Niels« -

knit v e s t ARKE T t ur tle ne ck MOLLI

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REIZ »K re is« -

s tr ip e blou s e W HYRED s ki r t S T EINROHNER s ilk s car f YS L V INTAGE e ar r i n g s & OT HERS T ORIES

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REIZ »Oc ulu s« -

dre ss W HYRED bl a z e r IV Y & OAK

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SILHOUETTE »5540« -

t ur tle ne ck SANDRO dre ss BLANCHE

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M E T R O P O L I TA N »8048« -

ja c ke t VA L EN T I N O sh ir t & t ie P R A D A p a nt s S A N D R O b el t H UG O B O S S

M E T R O P O L I TA N »8309« -

s ui t S ANDRO pullov e r L A NVIN i d hol d e r P R ADA

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aa cl cl e sa sr e a s

BY â&#x20AC;&#x160;FLORIAN RENNER s t yl in g G R A ZIANO DI CINT IO h a ir & m a ke - up L ES L EY V YE wi th MAC COS MET ICS mod el s EF R AIM S CHRODER & OW EN HAMZE a t NEXT MODEL S L ONDON loca t ion L O NDON

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R O L F S P E C TA C L E S »St ar 98« -

coa t & p ants LANVIN pullov e r HUGO BOSS

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MONOCEROS »C e phe u s« -

s ui t HU G O BOSS s hi r t VA LE NTINO

MONOCEROS »Ta ur u s« -

coa t VALE N T IN O sh i r t P RAD A p a nt s L AN V IN

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EINSTOFFEN

»B arbie r«

»Bie rb ra ue r«

coa t B UR B ER RY

s ui t HU GO BOS S

pu l lo v e r H UG O B O S S

s hi r t VAL ENT INO

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STRELLSON »S N33211« -

coa t , s hi r t & tie P RADA p ants S ANDRO

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STRELLSON »S N33217« -

pu l lo v e r & b el t H UG O B O S S b a g & i d hol d e r P R A D A p a nt s L A N V I N

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GÖTTI »Dot e y« -

pullo v e r HU GO BOSS sh ir t VAL E N T IN O b a ckp a c k PRAD A

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GÖTTI »PS03« -

pullo v e r & s hi r t VA L EN T I N O b a g PRAD A p a nt s L AN V I N

GÖTTI »Enr i q« -

bl a z e r S ANDRO s hi r t , tie & p ants P RADA

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I-SPAX »W ycle f« -

su i t HU GO BOSS pullo v e r VAL E N T IN O

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SEE YOU AT SILMO PARIS

HALL 5, BOOTH F016

COLLECTION CHECK

From retail t o d e s i g n An Unusual Career at GLCO photos RAP HAEL S CHMIT Z

Not every path in the eyewear business follows a straight trajectory. Not every career is set in stone. And that’s a good thing. The industry is full of exciting people who have been born into eyewear dynasties, including Garrett Leight, the son of design icon Larry Leight and founder of California-based label GLCO. But there are also stories of people who found their way into eyewear by ways of interesting detours, for instance Elena Doukas. Now the head product designer at GLCO in Venice, California, her career started in a different world entirely. We catch the details about her unique path and the upcoming GLCO collection in our interview.

»Steiner«

Hi Elena, thank you for your time. You’ve been working for GLCO since 2010. What initially attracted you to the eyewear business? I remember so vividly when I first met Garrett and started working in the Venice store, I was blown away by this devoted community around eyewear. I had been looking for something

GLCO Head Product Designer Elena Doukas

design-related that was grounded in something real, and that wasn’t being overtaken by fast fashion. Did you have any negative experiences with fast fashion? In 2010, I had been working in the apparel industry and found

of fashion retail was scaling back in their stores so much that their

it totally in disarray. Small brands were struggling. I remember

buys were so safe and ultimately uninteresting. We were selling

releasing a collection and only weeks later seeing the same designs

current eyewear collections at the Venice store, as well as a mag-

knocked off and stripped of quality. Eyewear, however, is a totally

nificent deadstock vintage collection made up of some of the first

different game and has a built-in sense of loyalty. It is a staple for

Oliver Peoples collections, and the vintage frames we glazed in so

people, definitely not disposable. Not to mention it’s completely gratifying to be selling something that ultimately helps someone

many different color combinations. So it was a breath of fresh air?

see.

Garrett’s store was full of life and on a street that had so much

You had quite an unorthodox career at GLCO. Can you tell us what drew

culture and community. Customers instantly saw that walking

you to work for Garrett in a retail position at the Venice store?

in. The vintage collection he curated told a story about eyewear

Garrett’s passion was the closing deal for me. When I first met

history, and more specifically, his family legacy in eyewear design.

him I thought, ‘This person is either crazy or genius.’ Turns out

I remember leaving my interview thinking about how badly I

he’s both! Again, it was 2010 and there weren’t people in the

wanted to be a part of it. During my interview, Garrett asked if

fashion industry thinking as boldly and brightly as he was. Most

he needed to open a window because he could visibly see how 174

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»L ouell a«

GLCO »Ma r r«

» S a n b or n «

Sounds like you spent a lot of energy during that time. Looking back, what were the most significant events since you started?

The most recent milestone was the launch of our new brand mr.

leight, a collaboration between Garrett and his father Larry

Leight. Larry joined our company in 2016 and we worked on this upper-tier luxury collection for two years before its launch. He nervous I was! His story was a story I could get behind and believe

is obviously a heavy hitter in eyewear – a legend, really – and he

in. Still is!

brought such a new perspective to Garrett and I, proving to be a

How exactly did you get from retail to designing eyewear for GLCO?

counterweight in a design process that was really fruitful. We al-

Before I started working for Garrett I was working as a designer

lowed ourselves access to materials and constructions that would

in the apparel industry and decided to go back to school and get

never be able to enter the GLCO collection. We did collection pre-

a business degree. While I was still finishing my degree, I met

sentations in both Paris and New York and it turned out to be one

Garrett in March of 2010 and started working full time in the

of the most gratifying moments I’ll never forget. It was somewhat

retail store while finishing school. Garrett and I worked almost

of a homecoming for me. I was able to see many of the accounts I

every day in the store together, and he shared that his first collec-

had once visited to sell our very first Garrett Leight collection. Back to you, what was your first design for GLCO?

tion was in progress and was going to start selling Fall 2010. He knew that my ultimate goal after I finished school was to go back

Truthfully, they all blend together from the first few collections

into design. And the store itself was an amazing learning experience

and we work so closely in our design process. I can tell you one of

by having access to hundreds of vintage frames that we could

the first frames I remember taking the lead of ushering through

dissect and figure out how they were built. These vintage frames

design and development was the »Van Buren«. Garrett gave me

had colors and details that made them feel so special compared

the go that he wanted to start introducing some more progres-

to anything else that was currently in the market. So I became

sive styles, and it was the first style that I pulled out of the ether

obsessed, and Garrett picked up on it.

in terms of design, that didn’t intrinsically speak to our brand. I

What did he do?

had started working on it towards the end of 2013 even though it

He offered me an assistant design position for his collection, but

didn’t launch in our collection until 2015, because it took several

under the condition that I continued to work in the store. At first

workshops until it became a natural fit within the collection. And

I turned it down, since I was already finishing school. He was

I’m happy it’s still a part of our collection and a very recognizable

looking to hire someone else, but came back to me a second time

style for us. What’s your favorite part about working for GLCO?

telling me that I knew that this was my job and that I would be insane to turn it down again. A week later we were in Hong Kong

GLCO is family for me. The people I work with, including our

together picking out the first collection colorways. I continued to

customers, make up an amazing community that has always

work in his store full time, finished my degree and emailed our

pushed me to new places. Where does your passion for design come from?

factories at night. In September, Garrett and I traveled to Europe and split up to visit European opticians in their stores right before

I come from a very practical family where if you wanted something

Silmo. It wasn’t until we shipped our first order in January 2011

you made it yourself, and my mother is one of the best seamstresses

that I began to work part-time in the store, and later graduated that

I know. I never saw her allow herself to be frivolous, but there

May and worked full time on the collection.

were moments when I went through her wardrobe of things she 175

COLLECTION CHECK

made and realized she has the best taste. My father is an aeronautical engineer, so between the two of them I should be painfully boring!

Let’s come back to the present. What inspired you for the new collection? Los Angeles. It might be cliché and expected from us, but we’ve

Realizing that the intersection of pragmatism, engineering, and

grown so much in the last few years and pushed ourselves to reach

good taste all go into eyewear set it all off for me. Working within

a wider audience in the last few seasons. It’s important to come

parameters – on the face – without being limited in any other ways

back home and reboot and get inspired by what it all started with.

is very liberating.

A lot of the silhouettes are based on LA couples in the ’90s, such as

How’s that?

Lenny Kravitz and Lisa Bonet when they wore mini oval sunglas-

Creating things that make people look great is a rush and some-

ses, or Brad Pitt and Gwyneth Paltrow wearing matching mono

what of an addictive high. Seeing customers have an attachment

chromatics and perfectly tailored aviators. In our stores, I see

to the product and appreciation to all that goes into it, that is the

couples come in like this now exploring the brand as something

most gratifying.

they can shop together. We just wrapped our Fall photo shoot at

What are the upcoming trends in terms of styles and materials?

a beachfront house in Malibu. Supposedly, David Hockney did

I see a lot of neo-futurism and sporty ’80s looks coming into

a summer residence in the house and some of his paintings do

eyewear. But I’m not sure I’m the best person to weigh in on

resemble the house. It’s an extremely bizarre maritime California

trends. It’s not that I don’t pay attention, I just know that our

beach shack, and right next door was a couple that I’m guessing

brand is built on classics and so we don’t throw ourselves behind

rented a small place for the summer just to escape. At one point I

something unless it feels genuine. We don’t shy away from ex-

said to Garrett, let’s just shoot them.

perimentation, it’s just that we apply our distinct perspective on color, fit, silhouette, construction, and so on to make something

Which materials did you choose for the collection? And why? We mainly use cellulose acetate, stainless steel, mineral glass and

really strong and timeless. For me I think it’s important that our

CR-39 lenses. Every day, I feel suppliers are coming out with new

end customer has the feeling of classic when they wear our frames. A feeling of genuineness that connects with them.

technologies within all these materials. I hope you can catch up. By the way, what’s your favorite pair of GLCO shades and why? The collaboration cat eye we did with Clare Vivier. No matter how many frames I have, I keep going back to them. When I made that frame, I was referencing this vintage French girl cat eye, and my first few tries I kept taking it bigger and more over the top. I finally realized the shape was meant to be small and tailored. It’s the same with clothing or beauty; sometimes less is more. Thank you, Elena! garrettleight.com

GLCO »Pl a ya «

» L in d e n«

»Ma r co«

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C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T

For the first time in its five-year brand history, Dutch designer label SUZY GLAM enlists a new artist for its new campaign: Hanneke van de Pol. The results are rendered in an iconic visual language inspired by Art Deco style. Thereby, the label bridges the gap between its new sunnies collection and a deep passion of company founders Susanne Klemm and Etienne Frederiks – architecture.

SUZY GLAM goes Art Deco A Limited Edition Sun Frame From the Amsterdamse School ca mp a i g n i m a ge s H A N N EK E VA N D E P O L , s t il l s E DA CAL IS T I

SUZY GLAM »De cora t e s«

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C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T

For the first time in five years you have let

The front like a brick wall ...

suzy glam frame – bold, elegant and func-

another artist work on your campaign images.

tional. Did you create any special models for the campaign?

How come? Our previous collaboration with Aisha Zeijpveld really put us on

Yes, our suzy glam »Decorates«. These are limited edition sun-

the map with her remarkable work. It has given us the attention of

glasses with a strong reminiscence of Amsterdamse School or Art

an audience that fits to our frames, but after five years we just felt

Deco. The piece will be a homage to the design philosophy of the

there should be a new wave and give someone else a chance. Also,

Amsterdam architects. How does this sunglasses model reflect the link between eyewear and

we always come out with lots of new models at Silmo. With this

architecture?

campaign, we want to launch these in a really fresh way. Who is the new artist and how did you

by a mutual friend. Who came up with the idea for the new campaign? Susanne did. We were working on a new model with influences from Art Deco and when browsing the internet, we found a lot of old French and American posters in this style. Think of a Vogue magazine cover from the 1920s. We liked these a lot and we thought it would be a good idea to do a new campaign that is hand-drawn instead of photographed.

bricks. Also the colors – gold and dark-

brand and your glasses?

Her name is Hanneke van duced to her and her work

are glued together with concrete, like

How does the campaign connect with the SUZY GLAM

connect? de Pol and we were intro-

It appears as if it was built up by layers that

something new out of it.

green – are typical for the Art Deco

We wanted to do something brave and glamorous with

period. Besides this, it comes in a

our campaign and at the same time we like the craftsmanship in

soft pouch, handmade by Susanne,

the creative process. This is also the base for our designs. So, no campaign with motion images or men with beards – things that are in fashion now. But instead drawings made with a lot of attention and eye for detail; with a modern twist and new techniques. Here at suzy glam, we call it ‘New Amsterdam School’.

The campaign motifs are strongly reminiscent of Art Deco. Why did you choose this style? It’s all around us! We live and work in the center of Amsterdam and all the time we pass by numerous buildings that are built in Amsterdamse School style, a sub-genre of Art Deco architecture. The street we live in is dominated by a big Art Deco hotel and the neighborhood where we work is developed by Hendrik Petrus Berlage, one of the greatest Dutch architects. We both really like this style so much that we wanted to express this Amsterdam feel in one of our frames. It’s a very recognizable style and was also very progressive in its

guidelines for the implementation? As always, we give the creatives who

time. On the one hand it was functional like most Dutch design, but on the other hand, it had a great decorative value as well; just like a

it, you will immediately notice the connection. When and how will we be able to get a glimpse at these glasses? The new models are part of a limited edition of 50 numbered pieces worldwide and they will be presented at Silmo. We will then be able to deliver them immediately to our customers. Where does your strong affiliation to architecture come from? Is it a personal weakness of yours or are there really design parallels between

What is special about the Amsterdamse School?

To what extent did you set Hanneke

in the same style. When you see

both fields? It actually is a personal weakness

and like all things we do, we try to visualize our personal interests in our designs.

That’s the reason why we are doing suzy glam just with the two of us; because it’s a

work with us as much freedom as pos-

very personal company.

sible. But of course the frames have to look good and we wanted

Thanks for the interview.

this specific Art Deco style influence to

suzyglam.com

be visible in the images. Hanneke made

... and temple ends reminiscent of Amsterdam gables. 179

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FLEYE »El v e r f el d« coa t & d re ss

M A R I N A H O ER M ANS EDER

»Cre nn« -

kni t s car f MES DEMOIS EL L ES jacke t MES DEMOIS EL L ES blou s e DOU T ZEN´ S BY HU NKEMÖL L E R 180

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»C oca« d re ss & a c ce ssor ie s

M ARINA HOE RM AN S E DER

Dansk D E L I C A C I E S Eyeglasses and Culinary Delights From FLEYE Scandinavian designer label fleye launched a special campaign in autumn 2017 honoring a real Danish national treasure: Smørrebrød. For those unfamiliar with the concept, these are open-faced sandwiches layered with rich ingredients used as a traditional lunch food throughout Denmark’s history. For the second part of the Smørrebrød collection, fleye enlisted famous chef Rasmus Kjaer to concoct two brand-new Smørrebrød-creations as the inspiration for the brand’s FS2018 collection. The food inspiration looms large over the eyewear designs in fleye’s current collection. The distinct colors of butternut squash,

lobster and tangerine have made the leap from sandwich toppings into vibrant summertime eyewear frames. The colors are added layer by layer to the glasses, much like layers on a Smørrebrød and just as flavorful. As a special feature, the layering aesthetic also extends to the lens fittings: The bright and feminine acetate and carbon frames in characteristic shapes have been fitted with bright fashionable lenses to create a lofty summertime look. The results are wearable works of art based on a fun experiment – not just for fleye but also for the cooks who get to let their creativity run wild on bread toppings. As a true feast for your eyes, our photographers Aglaja Brix and Florian Maas teamed up with stylist Andrea Kadler to shoot the glasses in their natural habitat – at the beach. It doesn’t get any tastier! fleye.dk

»Alle no«

»W issle r«

h a t BRIX T O N

dre ss ANT IK BAT IK

d re ss PAU L & J O E

photos AGL AJ A BRIX & FLORIAN MAAS p roduc tion ANDREA KADLE R h ai r & m ake - up U L L A KORNE LIUS mod els CHANEL & INDIA a t MD MANAGE ME NT A spec ial thanks to Strandhotel Fischland for the ir suppor t.

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FLEYE »He r m an« -

dre ss DES IGNERS REMIX

»R ou x« -

d re ss S T INE GOYA

»R ou x« -

e ar r i n g s J ANE KONIG 182

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FLEYE »Hunt e r« -

h a t B Y L A S T I LIS TA coa t M O N KI d re ss T R A F F I C P EOP L E b a g A N T I K B AT IK

»A ura« -

h a t B Y L AS T IL IS TA ja c ke t T RAF F IC P EOP L E b a g M ES DEMOIS EL L ES

»Cr ippa«

dre ss PUGNAT

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coa t P H I L O M EN A Z A N E T T I

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FLEYE »R oca« -

hat STETSON blou s e S T I N E G OYA t rou s e r s A N T I K B AT I K

»Oline« -

blou s e D E S I G N E R S R E M I X s kir t P E T I T B AT EA U

»Nuno« -

sh ir t PE TIT BATE AU s ki r t ME S DE MOISE LLE S coa t PINKO

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CAZAL »2501« -

coa t ASPE SI boots BALE NCIAGA

CAZAL

glov e s S T YLIST’S ARCHIVE

»2502« -

tre nch coa t Y V E S S A I N T L A UR EN T s ho e s S T YLIST ’ S A R C H I V E s hi r t RE S E R V E D t i g ht s FA L K E

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BY SACHA TASSILO HÃ&#x2013;CHSTETTER s t yli n g KAL I L EU ZZI a t P ERF ECT P ROP S h ai r & m ake - up L ENA GEHRIG a t FAME AGENCY mod els MONIC P EREZ & EL ENA D. a t L OU IS A MODEL S loca tion MU NICH

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ANDY WOLF »B ellin g« -

s hi r t ISABE L M A R A N T t rou s e r s A S O S t i g ht s WO L F O R D s ho e s YVE S S AI N T L A UR E N T t ie ST Y L IST ’S A R C H I V E

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ANDY WOLF »Maillol« -

bl a z e r GIAN N I V ER S A C E b el t GE RD ISMA N N e ar r i n g s S AS K IA D I E Z t u r t le n e c k WOL F O R D glo v e s ST Y L IST ’S A R C H I V E

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MAJE »MJ 5000« -

coa t ES C A D A e a r r in g s S A S K I A D I EZ

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SANDRO »SD 2000« -

s hi r t ISABE L MARANT v e s t ASPE SI tie KENZ O AT GE RDISMANN e ar r in g s SASKIA DIE Z

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BLACKFIN »C h arle s ton« -

bl a z e r GES T U Z t ur tle ne ck REINAL DO L OU RENÇO ti g hts FAL KE hot p ants S T YL IS T ’ S ARCHIV E

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BLACKFIN »Mar rows tone« -

rai ncoa t & hood GE RDISMANN s hi r t GESTUZ

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MODO »4089« -

pu l lov e r S AS KIA DIEZ e a r r in g s S AS KIA DIEZ

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MODO »4229« -

coa t RE S E R V E D jac ke t D IAD ORA AT G E R D I S M A N N blou s e P OL O R A L P H L A UR EN s hi r t M ARC BY M A R C J A C O B S leg g i n g s K AR L L A G E R F EL D pu mps BA L E N C I A G A hat TOP SHOP

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EYEVAN 7285 »560« -

sk ir t M A X & C O sh ir t G ES T UZ t ie K A R L L A G ER F EL D b oot s B A L E N C I A G A e a r r in g s S A S K I A D I E Z vest STYLIST’S ARCHIVE

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F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E

alain mikli a l e xParisian a nAvant-garde dre photos EDA CAL IS T I

» R os elyne«

»E d wi d ge «

» Na dége«

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F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E

x v a u t h i e r Sunglasses Collection alain mikli has always been known for his bold, expressioni-

stic styles. But he’s far from predictable: Current alain mikli collections may be building on a rich brand heritage, but the designer is always open to face new challenges and keep up with the latest zeitgeist. And he has been known to turn things up another notch in terms of boldness for collabs with designers and artists over the years. His latest coup is the cooperation with Alexandre Vauthier. The French designer premiered his alain mikli collabo eyewear models at a recent fashion show in Paris.

In a dazzling premiere, the new frames were brought to the catwalk not by their creator but by high-class international models such as Bella Hadid, Soo Joo Park, Vittoria Ceretti and Dilone. But the initial muse and actual face of the campaign for Vauthier was none other than super model Kate Moss. Inspired by the daring aesthetic cultivated by Alexandre Vauthier, this new collection is tailored towards fashion-savvy Parisian women. The four collabo styles are equally self-confident and sexy, giving plenty of nods to 1980s designs while staying »Roselyne«– adorned in Swarovsky crystals.

current and up-to-date for today. The »Edwidge« model with its flat and rectangular shape is a classic in true alain mikli form. In the »Edwidge jewelled« version, the acetate frame is adorned with Swarovski stones for extra bling. These also factor into the glamorous look of the round and powerful »Roselyne« style. The »Nadége« metal frame features a unique, rather high cross bar connecting the extravagantly shaped lenses in a futuristic design. And what does Alexandre Vauthier say about these four new models? “For this collaboration I wanted to create a very distinctive selection of eyewear that felt like a natural extension of my collection and also which complements the confident personalities of the Alexandre Vauthier woman. The women who wear my collections around the world are both sensual and powerful and this collaboration with ALAIN MIKLI was made for these bold and inspiring women.” The French fashion designer seems to have enjoyed the collaboration with alain mikli and the new edition of the joint project is already on the horizon.

»Nadége« – metal frames with futuristic design.

alainmikli.com

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S i g h t s e e i n g w i tA travel-inspired h K B Leyewear concept photos EDA CAL IS T I

KBL is making moves on the world stage. With an international team and a travelinspired concept, the eyewear brand is exploring new territories. In line with the trend towards globalization, KBL is no longer rooted in a single location, but a world citizen who’s at home anywhere. Inspired by a vast array of colors, shapes, and cultures, each collection draws influences from different corners of the world in a unique mixture. Through it all, KBL wants to showcase the beauty of opposites in collections marked by beautiful, timeless designs. SPECTR speaks with brand manager Marina Peline about travels, inspiring locations, and how eyewear design can be spiced up with influences from local cuisines.

KBL »E iff el«

»L ou vre«

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Hi Marina, KBL presents itself in a completely new look. Tell us something

cultures with open arms and embrace what is new, not reject it in fear of difference.

about the new philosophy and what’s behind it.

You are inspired not only by various cultures, but also by architecture and

The international aspect of our team was the first thing that

even local cuisine. How does it work in detail?

inspired us. We decided that we were going to bring travel into the brand, so that each place could get a chance to really show its

Architecture plays a very important role in the inspiration behind

secret gems. Every location has its own culture, its own legends,

our glasses. It can tell the story of an entire area, of the tastes of the

its own cuisine and its own unique people. There is so much beauty in the world, it would be a shame if people were to miss that!

people and their government. And the tastes of local cuisines flow into your eyewear designs?

Aside from the new philosophy, what is the difference between KBL and

We believe that every artist has some form of synesthesia by

other eyewear labels?

“seeing” sounds, “feeling” colors. That’s why creativity is so ma-

The main difference comes from the details of our story and

gical. Inspiration can be very broad, and local cuisine is also a form

manufacturing.

of artistry. Some areas use more rich spices, which can inspire solid earthen colors. Other areas use cream, and that can inspire

Can you specify that? We celebrate everyone’s individuality, and we also celebrate every nation’s personal treasures. We push the possibility for one to

more pastel colors. You see what I mean... Let’s talk about the latest KBL collection. For the Paris collection you were inspired by some important monuments. Why did you choose the Eiffel

enrich themselves by learning about other people’s stories. Our story revolves around the love of traveling and exposing the beauty

Tower and what fascinates you about it? The Eiffel Tower is a defining characteristic of Paris! I think that

of each travel location to our curious customers.

few people would think of Paris and not think about the Eiffel

On that note, what is special about your manufacturing process? We take pride in the fact that we partnered up with one of the

Tower. It was created as a temporary structure lasting a few weeks,

world’s leading Japanese eyewear manufacturers. This prestigious

and not only was it kept permanently in the end, but it became an

family of eyewear makers are experts in working with titanium

icon of Paris! It represents permanence and timelessness. I think

and acetate. Their titanium soldering is amongst the best in the

it’s a lovely message to the world that determination can get you places.

world, and their polishing is incomparable. The themes of “travel” and “inspiration” are an important part of the new concept. What exactly do they mean for KBL?

Another pair of male glasses was inspired by the Louvre, right? The Louvre glasses are light-form titanium optical glasses. Their

Traveling is something that many people these days share. Where

main feature is a simple metal top rim, the rest lends beauty to the

there is a will, there is a way. You can stay in luxury castles in

clarity of the lens. It’s clearly apparent that this was inspired by the

Europe or take a backpack and travel around South America. It’s a way of broadening personal horizons, experiencing another way

glass pyramids of the Louvre, which bear similar qualities.  And you visited the Champs-Élysées. How did this symbol find its way into your glasses?

of life, stepping out of your comfort zone. In the end, it’s always

The Champs-Élysées boasts a reputation as one of the world’s

beneficial.

most famous shopping districts. With all the high-end and most

Beneficial in what way? Inspiration and travel, I believe, really go hand-in-hand. When

sophisticated shops. Although the streets are clearly now more

you travel, you are exposed to a world of differences that may even

of a tourist attraction, we wanted to pay tribute to a time when

be beyond your comfort zone. But in that way, it can also train

there were mainly local ladies shopping for the finest things. The

your brain and allow creativity to generate and run free.

Champs-Élysées sunglasses are very feminine cat eye sunglasses that are styled in striking and chic colors, according to our vision

The topic of “accepting” is also very relevant to you. Why? It is clear that the world is becoming smaller. Taking a flight for 13 hours can transport you to the other side of the world! It is moving

of the perfect high-class lady. There is also another optical frame in the collection?

in the direction of globalization: and although this is amazing,

Yes, this one is rather unisex and available in two sizes. These

many people are also experiencing a strange sort of xenophobia.

rounded pure titanium glasses are delicate and simple yet durable

This project allows us to show people that differences and other

and timeless. The »Orsay« takes its inspiration from the former

cultures are beautiful. That we need to accept all these different

railway station. The central groove of the titanium frame takes its influence from the pattern of the metallic tracks that used to run 201

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along the grounds of the marvelous building. What materials did you use for the collection and why? We focus mainly on acetate and titanium in our collection. We use the best quality materials available on the market. The acetate is from world-famous Mazzucchelli. The titanium is high-end Japanese beta titanium that ensures both flexibility and durability. With architecture being such a different field, what are the common features in the collection? Aside from individual elements of inspiration from the locations, we keep identifying consistencies in each frame. Our temple tip is inspired by the tail of an aircraft, giving the temple an aerodynamic feeling, with our logo, the traveler, snuggled discreetly there. For our titanium glasses, on the temple there is a pattern showing an arrow over lines in the background. This represents the contrails left by airplanes in the sky. Much like a passport, it reminds us of our origins despite our love of exploration. We work in discreet detailing, so features are not obvious to the general public, but very noticeable to a wearer of our glasses. Do you want to tell us where in the world the next collection is going to take you? We like to keep our places secret. But what we can say is that this

KBL

time, we are still staying within an incredible metropolitan city in

»C h amps Elys ee s«

Europe. Safe travels and thank you for the interview. kbleyewear.com

»O r sa y«

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SN33018 | Charmant GmbH Europe | www.charmant.de

HIGHLIGHTS

4 0 engineered

When Ferdinand Alexander Porsche launched the porsche design brand in

PORSCHE

1972, he single-handedly extended the Porsche legend beyond the world of automobiles. Six years later, his design of the »P’8478« with its interchangeable glass mechanism created a timeless classic. The following decade saw the rise of spectacular designs such as the Shield sunglasses, which Yoko Ono made her calling card, and the first aviator sunglasses with a

PORSCHE DESIGN EYEWEAR

folding mechanism. Similar to Porsche automobiles, the exclusive lifestyle brand

40Y R eloa d ed »P’8478«

represents precision and perfection, intelligent functionality, and demanding, functional designs. The year 2018 releases continue this tradition with equally impressive and innovative technology – and SPECTR has the highlights.

»P’8478« 40Y ANNIVERSARY EDITION Starting things off, the update of the iconic »P’8478« 40Y Anniversary Edition is hitting stores in a limited release at 1978 pieces worldwide. The design classic is among the few eyewear styles that have remained unchanged over the past four decades, except for the updated material choice of ultra-light titanium. The anniversary edition boasts an elegant black-gold look by ways of a glossy gold lens clip and floating bridge contrasting with the matted black titanium frame. The 40Y ships in a special travel box holding four exchangeable lenses. This allows the wearer to adjust the look by changing the teardrop-shaped lenses to match the current mood and occasion.

204

HIGHLIGHTS

years of aesthetics

DESIGN EYEWEAR Highlights 2018 photos R A P H A E L S C H M I T Z

»P’8662«

»P’8661« BALL-TEC SERIES For another current collection highlight, look no further than the iF Design Awardwinning Ball-Tec Series. It’s another textbook example of porsche design eyewear exploring uncommon ground:

The headline feature is the screw-less hin-

»P’8334«

ge concept, in which the titanium temples seamlessly integrate via a ball hinge into the RXP-frame. Despite its delicate look, the hinge concept proves highly robust upon opening and closing. True to the motto form follows function, the Ball-Tec Series exemplifies the porsche design eyewear blend between functionality

and design. The result is a maintenance-

»P’8335«

free, purist hinge concept in a frame weighing a mere 8.5 grams. Low on weight, heavy on style – and still setting trends after 40 years of eyewear design heritage. porsche-design.com 205

BRAND PROFILE

WOOD FELLAS »Mar ie n be rg« -

p a rk a H O P E ju mp e r N E IL BA R R ET T b y A P R O P O S S T O R E d e n i m W UN D E R W ER K

WOOD FELLAS

Bringing Nature to Town photos S T E FAN D O N G US a ss i s t a nt J AN A L UD W I G p rod uc t ion FRIE D ER I K E C O EN E N d i g i t a l op e ra t i n g C A R O R O S S s t yl i n g J U LIA AT IT I h a ir & m a ke - up A N S C H I UR B A S t a le nt s N IN A a t C O R E & YA N N a t EA S T W E S T M ODEL S re touch GL AM T OUC H

Blending a rootedness in nature with urban lifestyle: In 2012, Munich-based eyewear aficionados Jan Priepke and Stefan Muckenhirn created their own eyewear label, wood fellas, with the idea to manufacture stylish

frames from real wood. Today, their frames not only incorporate FSC-certified ebony, walnut, zebrano, and mahogany wood but also ultra-thin shale, acetate and real buffalo horn. As the brand evolves, interesting combinations of these materials keep making a statement in their collections. What’s more, every wood fellas frame is a real one-of-a-kind original due to the natural differences on the surfaces of these materials. The company’s concept goes beyond using natural ingredients all the way into sustainability. All raw materials are sourced exclusively from renewable resources. wood fellas wood comes from a furniture manufac206

BRAND PROFILE

turer who discards pieces of precious wood that are too small for production. And the material for horn frames comes from the horn naturally shed by the animals in order to rule out animal cruelty. Design inspiration remains local, however, as all frames are inspired by beautiful sites in and around Munich. The product line-up consists of a growing palette of RX-frames and sunglasses. Another design highlight includes the OBE feathered hinges, crafted by a traditional German family business. These high-grade hinges are not just a characteristic design element but make all products super light, flexible, robust and convenient to wear and adjust. In the bigger picture, wood fellas is creating a modern, sustainable street style

look while blending a high degree of design finesse with sustainable criteria. As a result, each frame is the perfect “fella” to keep the wearer company on a day or night out on the town. wood-fellas.com

WOOD FELLAS »R os e n be rg« -

jacke t L OL LYS L AU NDRY s w e a t e r J U V IA d e ni m HOP E

207

jj ee ps eo ni ss e

BY AVA PIVOT s t yl in g J UL IA HEU S E mod el s S A RAH BAT T a t V IVA MODEL S & QAHER a t ICONIC MANAGEMENT loca t ion BERL IN

208

NEUBAU

»L ott e«

»F rank«

k a f t a n S T YIS T ’ S OW N

jacke t U S . ARMY V INTAGE

209

ETNIA BARCELONA »B ywa t e r Sun« -

ja c ke t JUL I A H E US E

210

ETNIA BARCELONA »L yn d ale Sun« -

d re ss V IN TA G E 1 2 1 3 B S T S H O P

211

MOREL »30076« -

coa t ATE LIE R AURA sh ir t SKIN

212

MOREL »30077« -

d re ss V I N TA G E 1 2 1 3 B S T S H O P

213

GLCO »Pl a ya« -

ja c ke t M US TA N G s hi r t & p a nt s V I N TA G E 1 2 1 3 B S T S H O P

214

GLCO »Pl a ya« -

s hi r t MICHAEL KORS jacke t AT EL IER AU RA p ants V INTAGE 1 2 1 3 BS T S HOP

215

ByWP »B y19042« -

dre ss J U L IA HEU S E

216

ByWP »O y19060« -

kimono S T YLIST ’ S O W N

217

BARTON PERREIRA »B ur ns« -

coa t J U LIA UN D B EN

BARTON PERREIRA »Nin a« -

dre ss J U L IA HEU S E ba g GU ANABANA

218

PERSOL »2649« -

p a nt s & w e s t T H O KK T HOKK ja c ke t & sn e a ke r s REEBOK

PERSOL »2649« -

dre ss ANONYME

220

ts he er v ca ot no -r y

BY BELA RABA s t yli n g S IBYL L E OBERS CHEL P h ai r & m ake - up ANT J E KRAU S E mod els INGA KL AAS EN & MARL ON NIKOLAI a t TUNE MODE LS d i g i t al a ss i s t ant & p os t p roduc tion Q UE NTIN STROHME IE R loca tion MU NICH

221

BLACKFIN »Suns e t R ee f« -

sh ir t , v e s t , jacke t & p ants HANNIBAL

222

L.G.R »Tob r uk« -

ca p e M ARIN A HOE RM A N S E D E R p a nt s RIC HE RT B EI L b o ot s FL ORIS VAN B O M M EL

223

EYEVAN 7285 »156« -

p a nt s & jac ke t A R M ED A N G E L S s h ir t C A L I D A

224

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER »Ph antom« -

pu l lo v e r M A R I N A H O ER M A N S ED E R

225

WOOD FELLAS »Tros tbe rg« -

blou s e BEATRICE p ants P EAK P ERFORMANCE

226

WOOD FELLAS »St e in burg« -

s hi r ts HANNIBAL p ants RE E BOK s hoe s F L ORI S VAN BOMME L

WOOD FELLAS »R os e n a u« -

ju mps u i t M I C H A E L K O R S coa t RIC H ERT B EI L s ho e s B UF FA L O

227

MARC O’POLO »506148« -

s hi r t , p ants & jacke t DIS T ORT ED PE OPLE

228

MARC O’POLO »506151« -

sh ir t & p ants L ES COYOT ES DE PARIS

MARC O’POLO »506146« -

s hi r t E T E R N A ja c ke t S C HN EI D ER S p a nt s D IS T ORT E D P EO P L E

229

MOREL »T h ali a« -

d re ss M I R O C R A EM ER

230

SILMO 2018 - HALL 5N 104

photo S T E FAN K A P F ER

Go | Get | IT

R ALPH VAESSEN »Kate« & »B r it«

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