SPECTR Issue 30 by Monday Publishing GmbH

“Awakening” No. 30 // September 2020 // English // EUR 15,–

LINDBERG »8586«

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46 52 77 90 104 114

Print Meets Digital Eyewear Goes Crossmedia

Off Duty By Diane Betties

Mastering Titanium. And Steel. Ørgreen Insights

Dope Fits By Estelle Klawitter

Götti Perspective Local and Independent

One Plus One Is One By Narente

48 64 83 102 110 126

Origins / Rationality / Future Rolf’s 3D Printing Expertise: Skyline & Substance Collection

Minimalism By Rachel Jiam

Lindberg – Celebrating Geometry A Tribute to 100 Years of Eyewear Design

Thank You! 10 Years of Spectr

The Rediscovery Of Craftsmanship Eyevan Brings Heritage into the Here-and-Now

Stand Your Ground By Harling Darsell

S P E C T R // C O N T E N T

136

Salt. Highlights for Eternity

144

Le Sustain Puts Environment First

152

Do What You Know How To Do Best

182 202 210 220

Timeless Effort

S P E C T R // C O N T E N T

New Eco-Conscious Collection from Le Specs

Haffmans & Neumeister Launches New Masterpieces

Don’t MISS Me By Ulrich Hartmann

Made In Italy – With Something Extra Look – Made in Italia

Unbreakable, Everywhere. Gloryfy Launches Optical Collection

Late Summer By Florian Renner

140 148 159 198 206 214

Sustainable Is The New Normal Eco – A 2020 Update

Fleye Copenhagen Elements Of Art From Soaps to Frames

New Key Products To Go Collection Highlights from 22 Brands with Virtual Try-On

Horn – Sustainable Eyewear At Its Best Hoffmann Natural Eyewear

Sport Meets Fashion New Eyewear Collection From Bogner

Neon – Etnia Barcelona Ibiza Vol.2 By Rachel Jiam

LINDBERG » 6 5 8 5« dres s REBEKKA RUÉTZ

“Lindberg – Celebrating Geometry” by Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter (pages 83 – 88)

Masthead EDITOR IN CHIEF

STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

LAYOUT

CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com

EDITORIAL STAFF

SANDRA GAWLOWSKI [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com

PROOFREADING

INSA MUTH [Dortmund] PETER ASHFORD [London] FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]

TRANSLATION

DIRK VOGEL [Chicago]

ONLINE EDITOR

FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] online@spectr-magazine.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS

DIANE BETTIES [Berlin] EDA CALISTI [Munich] STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] WILLIAM FERCHICHI [London] HARLING DARSELL [Berlin] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich] RACHEL JIAM [Berlin] ESTELLE KLAWITTER [Dusseldorf] KATERYNA KUHL [Dusseldorf] NARÈNTE // LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia] FLORIAN RENNER [Berlin] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf]

PUBLISHER

MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH Kamekestrasse 20-22 50672 Cologne, Germany t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com www.facebook.com/spectrmagazine

CEOS

STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK

F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de cover photos DIANE BETTIES [Berlin] styling DAVOR JELUSIC assisted by

ROSALIE SEEHUSEN hair & make-up NATALIA SOBOLEVA at LIGANORD AGENCY models EUGENIE at MIRRRS MODELS & DINAH at IZAIO MODEL MANAGEMENT

SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

LINDBERG » 6 5 77« ha t RALPH LAUREN s hirt YOU KNOW YOU WANT IT pa nts BELSTAFF

“Lindberg – Celebrating Geometry” by Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter (pages 83 – 88)

S P E C T R // E D I T O R I A L

Awakening Welcome to Issue #30 What a year. Back when we printed our previous issue, the world was still paralyzed and in shock during lockdown. Brands and opticians were facing many daunting questions. Where is it all headed? Will my sales pick back up? Will I be able to retain my customers? Now, about four months later, the situation has not changed dramatically, at least on paper. The pandemic is still ravaging, as certain parts of the world are facing high infection rates. Meanwhile, some regions that appeared to have overcome the virus are now facing the real threat of a second wave. But what has changed is people’s overall perception of the situation. The New Reality has become… normal. Statistics have lost their terror. Perhaps also because they no longer dominate coverage of the pandemic (depending on where you live). And perhaps because politicians and citizens have learned how to cope with this reality. Aside from large events and gatherings of great numbers of people indoors, lots of things have come back to life. Opticians are selling eyewear again, many with a positive outlook while patiently observing the new rules about hygiene. Brands are also noticing their business resurging. The overall mood in the industry is more relaxed. That’s why we have decided to use this current issue – SPECTR #30 – as an opportunity to celebrate our tenth anniversary. But we want to celebrate in a more quiet and subdued manner, much like the new kinds of festivities in the real world. Instead of loud gestures, we want to take the time to focus on editorial content and the actual eyewear, as well as the people behind it. For this current issue, we’ve conducted numerous high-profile interviews and asked designers and company founders about their personal and entrepreneurial experiences of the coronavirus crisis. And it’s no surprise that many of them tend to respond in a rather calm fashion to the new situation. Some even welcome it, because the mandatory time-out has provided them with an opportunity to reflect on their actions and thinking. The overall consensus: Strong and innovative brands will emerge from the crisis stronger than before. Here’s another common denominator in the emerging narrative: Brands are feeling more responsible for their eco footprints, resource-conserving manufacturing, elimination of waste, shorter shipping routes, longevity of their products and favorable working conditions. Overall, sustainability is emerging as the current mega trend and appropriate response to the situation. This focus on sustainability features front and center across interviews with ROLF, GÖTTI, SALT., LOOK, ECO, LE SPECS, GLORYFY, ØRGREEN and HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR while each brand finds

its own angle to approach the subject. And we’re curious to explore every single one of them. We hope that you’ll enjoy our anniversary issue. SD

S P E C T R // E D I T O R I A L

Print Meets Digital

Brands on FAVR: BAARS BARTON PERREIRA BLACKFIN

Eyewear Goes Crossmedia

CAZAL CLAIRE GOLDSMITH COVRT PROJECT EINSTOFFEN

pho to s STEFAN DONGUS ha ir & make-u p NICOLA WEIDEMANN m o d els ALEXANDRA a t MOST WANTED & ANDRE at NO TOYS

EMMANUELLE KHANH EYEVAN FACE À FACE FLEYE

In Spring 2020 we launched our digital platform FAVR – PREMIUM EYEWEAR FINDER. Our goal: To provide everyone looking for premium eyeglasses on the internet with a centralized, easy to navigate platform. Since our launch, we have been able to add a range of new functions to FAVR. The site now supports searching for optical stores in specific cities, also enhanced by user-friendly map functionality. Additionally, the neatly organized Brand section and product detail texts can now be viewed with a magnifying function, which is especially helpful on mobile devices. At this point, 45 premium eyewear labels are showcasing their key products on FAVR to help consumers find their perfect pair of glasses. The platform also helps

narrow down search results by applying several filters (like brand or material). Plus, digital features such as the Match My Style assistant and Virtual Try-On provide personal relevance and inspiration. The most important part about FAVR: We do not sell eyewear directly on the platform, but always direct visitors to their nearest expert optical store. This is a crucial part of our mission, as we firmly believe in the value of on-site counseling by master opticians. Here’s another feature: You may have noticed a significant amount of QR-codes placed next to glasses in this issue. They’re here to provide readers with a seamless transition between print and digital media. Simply activate the camera on your phone or tablet to see a specific pair of glasses on FAVR. Also with the option of seeing how it suits your particular face in our Virtual Try-On – the brand new models from the end of September. Why not give it a try right now? See you on favrspecs.com

GIGI STUDIOS GÖTTI HELDEN HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR IC! BERLIN J.F. REY KERL KLENZE & BAUM LEISURE SOCIETY LUNOR MAKELLOS MARKUS T MASSADA MASUNAGA MATSUDA MAYBACH EYEWEAR METROPOLITAN MIGA STUDIO MODO NATHALIE BLANC NEON BERLIN NEUBAU NIRVAN JAVAN OLIVER GOLDSMITH REIZ ROBERT LA ROCHE ROLF SALT.

Scan to visit favrspecs.com

SPECTR

Simply scan with the camera on your phone or tablet – and enter a digital eyewear universe replete with 1,000 key styles from 45 premium brands.

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In order to access all functionality of the FAVR platform, we suggest signing up right away. It’s fast and free of charge, right here.

SPECTR

Origins / Rationality /

Titanium Skyline Collection The Skyline Collection relies on 3D-printing to create titanium frames in extraordinary shapes and colors. The resulting frames are voluminous, yet robust and surprisingly lightweight.

Future Rolf’s 3D Printing Expertise: Skyline & Substance Collection pho to s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

ROLF SPECTACLES »T RI Tr i p o l i s «

»LAX Los Angeles«

Scan to try on ROLF SPECTACLES favrspecs.com

Hello Roland and Bernhard! Being based in Tyrol means you were hit by coronavirus quite early on. How have you fared during lockdown?

What were some of the results?

advantage lies in the fact that we only

BW: We focused on the new Substance

produce based on orders. So we could

Collection as well as advancing our

ensure that, even in the weeks during

wood, horn and titanium collections.

Roland Wolf (RW): We were fortunate in

the lockdown, we always had enough to

RW: We knew that our products are fully

that our region had the lowest case num-

do and could work through orders from

in line with the current zeitgeist, including

January and February.

the growing consumer consciousness for

bers in all of Tyrol. Nevertheless, we res-

authentic and regional products as well

for all likely scenarios. Many employees

Did you make some positive experiences during this phase, arrive at new ideas?

started working from home and manufac-

BW: Since we handle all of our marke-

would help us emerge stronger from the

turing changed to a shift model to minimi-

ting, design, production and distribution

ze the number of people simultaneously

in-house, we were able to redistribute

on-site in our factory. This allowed us to

and make targeted use of capacities and

keep operations running quite well. Even

areas of competence. We also used the

the manufacturing of glasses partially

time to develop new concepts and ideas

RW: These three concepts play a large

shifted to the home office.

for the era after corona.

role for us. Our origins have shaped us.

ponded instantly and prepared in detail

Bernhard Wolf (BW): Another major

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

as sustainable materials, which we knew crisis.

Three concepts are fundamental to your company: Origins, Rationality, Future. How come?

Sustainability has been a fundamental value at ROLF SPECTACLES from day one. The family business based in the Tyrol mountain region made a name for itself with expertly crafted wooden eyewear frames, which have since been joined by high-end models crafted from horn and titanium. For eyewear designers Roland and Bernhard Wolf, their constant commitment to tradition does not conflict with a steady drive towards innovation and improvement of existing processes. This already became apparent in the Skyline Collection by ROLF SPECTACLES, in which titanium frames were crafted using 3D-printing technology. Now the story continues, as the brand-new Substance Collection features models entirely created via 3D-printing with a special focus on conserving natural resources. The advanced manufacturing method blends with plant-based raw materials to demonstrate the innovative backbone of the Austrian tech and design company. With the Substance Collection, ROLF also makes its first product offering in the medium price ranges, thereby opening ROLF SPECTACLES to a younger consumer demographic. It’s all part of the bigger picture, as Roland and Bernhard firmly believe that change can only be achieved by reaching as many people as possible.

3D-printing unlocks new possibilities – including complex geometries like these.

ROLF’s patented hinges find their way into the Skyline Collection.

We have always been closely connec-

to the latest technologies are fundamen-

new technologies. We have customers

ted to nature as well as this region. We

tal to us, in order to be prepared for the

who ‘get’ our concept and carry it out

manufacture regionally and want to

future. We want to be part of a change

into the world.

strengthen our immediate connections.

and show in how far it is possible to

BW: We’re really into upcycling. For

Our supplies are selected locally, and

create better products with a sustainable

instance, our first CNC mill was conver-

we cultivate a family-like relationship

mindset.

ted into a 3D-printer. Our offices were

with each of them. In terms of rationality, we develop and manufacture our patented hinges and lens-fitting systems

Your interpretation of “sustainable” seems to be quite expansive. How far does it go?

made from the shipping boxes of our CNC machines in a process planned and implemented by students. We create new

in-house. This includes the targeted use

RW: Some people tend to reduce us to

of new technologies in order to create

our choices of materials, but we go way

products with added value. That seems

beyond that. Sustainability starts with

rational to us.

regional manufacturing, minimizing of

RW: We don’t. We try to extract the most

BW: Our vision includes making highly

suppliers, long-term and motivated em-

out of each area while making as few

innovative and honest products. Our in-

ployees, new ways of thinking in product

compromises as possible. We attempt

house product development and access

development and proper application of

to always become better and connec-

things out of the old.

Do you emphasize certain areas over others?

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

ROLF SPECTACLES

Substance Collection In the Substance Collection, 3Dprinting technology serves to craft frames from a plant-based material, while the entire manufacturing happens in-house.

»Na p o «

»M u r g «

who share our story with enthusiasm and

possible.

get people excited about our products.

RW: We have always strived to question

RW: We would like to see more con-

ourselves and not rest on our laurels.

sciousness and critical questioning of

We wanted to reimagine eyeglasses and

where and how products are manufac-

reinvent ourselves. In the future, new

You also maintain a personal approach and are quite well-known as eyewear personalities. Is that perhaps a bit too personal?

tured. There needs to be a platform for

technologies and materials will continue

RW: We’re proud of what we do and are

manufacturers of sustainable eyewear,

to allow us to keep progressing.

fully backing it.

without pigeonholing them as niche

What do you expect from your partners and suppliers?

suppliers. The zeitgeist calls for mindfully crafted products, which we are glad to

Your new Substance Collection is a step in this exact direction, using 3D-printing technology. How does this align with sustainability?

BW: We select our partners very diligent-

participate in.

ly. Our long development processes also

BW: It’s all about walking the walk. Sus-

BW: From the raw material to the final

allow us to gauge whether a cooperation

tainability is becoming a trend and many

eyewear frame, everything happens

is working. We appreciate personal inter-

companies are looking to jump on the

in-house. Here at ROLF, we avoid over-

actions and mostly work with small family

bandwagon. But whether they have ear-

production. This also applies to the new

businesses.

ned their spot, or are just imposters, is for

Substance Collection.

And what do you expect from opticians?

opticians and end consumers to judge.

BW: Opticians are our spokespeople.

You built a reputation for manufacturing wooden eyewear frames, but always continued to evolve. In how far is progress

Products without a personal face have no value. We are proud to have partners 50

important to you?

ting all company segments as tightly as

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

In how far? RW: Implementing 3D-printing technolo-

gy with a plant-based raw material and our patented hinges is a logical step.

“Opticians are our spokespeople. Products without a personal face have no value.”

ROLF SPECTACLES »D o r e «

»F a k o «

By also printing our hinges, we arrive at

which in our mind are no longer up to

BW: Yes, the Substance MOUNT Collec-

a more efficient manufacturing process

today’s standards.

tion strikes a new direction with more

and save time working with suppliers and

RW: Another advantage is that the

progressive designs.

add-on components.

frames are practically indestructible due

BW: Our Flexlock Hinges offer some

to the combination of Flexlock Hinges

amazing functionality. It rotates in all directions and is entirely independent of screws and springs, as all impact is absorbed by the O-ring.

So you’re really also 3D-printing the hinge?

and ultra-flexible material.

How would you describe the design language of the new collection?

On that note, the Substance styles consciously aim at younger generations. Are you rejuvenating your entire offering? BW: We want to offer a regionally manu-

factured product at an affordable price

RW: In the Substance Collection, we

point. Young generations are receptive

opted for a young, understated design

and demand authentic and sustainable

direction. Our design is focused on de-

products with an identity. We really want

BW: Yes, it’s another example of brilliant

tails. Our printing technology allows us

to meet those demands!

simplicity. We conjoin the front and temp-

to render minuscule details and set new

RW: Change can only be achieved by

les via a single O-ring. The 3D-printing

standards in 3D-printing. This opens up

reaching as many people as possible.

process allows us to include the hinges

unlimited possibilities. The surface struc-

despite all their complexity. The closing

ture also is part of the design process

angles and touchpoints can be simply

for us. We have invested lots of time and

integrated into the final frame. It’s as if

energy into creating a tactile sensation

3D-printing was created for this purpose. We require neither screws nor springs,

All the best for this journey. www.rolf-spectacles.com

around our frames.

The collection even includes sunglasses. S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

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EASE A1017

For more than 20 years, these three have brought lifestyle attitude and outstanding quality to the eyewear universe: Tobias Wandrup, Gregers Fastrup & Henrik Ørgreen.

Mastering Titanium. And Steel. Ørgreen Insights

s till s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ po r trait NICKY DE SILVA

The list of influential indie brands in the eyewear universe would not be complete without Danish designer label ØRGREEN. Worldwide, the Scandinavians enjoy a reputation for premium titanium frames and elaborate colorways. With the new Havn collection, the label is entering new territory by releasing the very first line of stainless-steel frames. Time to talk to founder and namesake Henrik Ørgreen about the motivation behind this move, as well as the current year that’s been far from business as usual.

team, and a bit of luck here and there. Looking back, it’s good to see that today we are still characterized by the same key values that ØRGREEN was founded on, including design, quality, and colors. We never compromised and that’s been key in solving all the challenges.

What were the major milestones on this path? There were two main milestones. The first was when I made the decision to move

Hello Henrik, over the past 20 years ØRGREEN has grown into one of the most important independent eyewear brands. What’s the secret? We are very proud to have built a brand that now has an international presence.

our production from Europe to Japan, which included researching and finding the factories, and discovering a whole new culture. We had a vision about making the best titanium frames in the world.

And the second?

It has been a long journey, and we suc-

The other milestone arrived on the day

ceeded thanks to hard work, a fantastic

we broke even and started making real S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

ØRGREEN »Rhumb«

Ultralight Titanium Collection Inspired by the retro look of titanium wire frames, but with that special ØRGREEN touch.

»B o r d e r «

»He mi sphe re «

» Tropi c s«

money. We were able to stop borrowing

eyewear business to be the best – and

We specialize in the premium segment.

if not the best, then at least among the

came financially independent. That was

You may not like what we do, but you

best. The day when we cannot deliver on

about six years into the business.

can’t ignore us. I think it’s ok to say that

this, we are history.

Are these two milestones related in some way?

we are very good at what we do. And without any doubt, we also work with

Is that where your daily motivation comes from?

Yes, it was our first two-tone color frame

some of the best factories in the eyewear

I do not think we could be motivated if it’s

made in Japan that shifted our course.

business. Some other brands have lost

just a question of survival or making mo-

sight and fluctuated in delivering quality,

ney. We still want to make a statement

whereas we have remained stable at a

and we want to earn the respect of our

high level.

customers. And as long as we have this,

These colorways were a standout at the time. What else makes the ØRGREEN brand special? We never compromised. We never stop-

Aside from compromising quality, is there anything you refuse to do as a brand?

we play the game.

better at what we do. Like the Porsche

We do not want to be a mass market,

911. It gets better and better, but it’s still

mid-end brand. One that gets too

the same. If you keep going, it will never

inspired by others, because this is not

go out of fashion. And this approach is

who we are! I think that the team behind

This year has brought some harsh changes to the game with the coronavirus crisis. To what extent will the eyewear industry change in response to the pandemic?

ØRGREEN would stop working for us if we

It’s still a very early time to draw con-

ended up in this category. We are in the

clusions as we are still in the middle of

ped exploring. We kept pushing at being

under our skin.

Comparing ØRGREEN to other indie 78

brands, what makes you stand out?

money from friends and family and be-

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

it and everything is so fragmented. Just

Clean and detailed outlines characterize the Ultralight Titanium Collection.

look at the United States and Europe! But in my mind, the industry has changed already.

In how far? We did not have the big trade shows this year, which provide the main traction for the industry. And each of us have started working on their own alternatives. We all had to leave our comfort zones and find a new balance. Some have accelerated their digital channels, whether its B2B or B2C, while others have resorted to new, smaller shows. It’s very early to estimate what’s going to be the ‘new normal’ and where we are going to land. But we are definitely not going back.

On that note, do you assume that these changes will be sustainable for the industry?

that are just waiting for the storm to pass

like an ecommerce platform. But eve-

Everybody quoted Darwin in the past

and go back to where they were before

rything needs to happen at the right time.

months, meaning that the best-adapted

will not. The crisis has accelerated things

individuals will survive. That’s what susta-

that were supposed to happen anyway.

inable means for me. People have been forced to rethink their strategies and ad-

Does that include a push into digital transformation?

Will this change the way you cooperate with your clients? We have been discussing that a lot internally. We have always been very

apt. This is the best thing that could have

Digital needs to be integrated with the

product-focused, but I think we will start

happened to the entire supply chain.

physical if you want to continue to serve

being more customer-focused. And really

Factories have been forced to close

your opticians. For several years we

start looking at supporting the different

or slow down for a period and re-think.

have been investing in an omnichannel

demands that emerge within different

Meanwhile, the opticians have been

strategy, integrating online and offline

markets.

forced to close down or slow down and

activities to better support our clients. We

now they are slowly getting back. It’s all

are collecting data in one big repository

During the past months, we have been

returning slowly, but all in a new normal.

so that all internal departments like sa-

offering digital services to all our shops.

les, marketing, design, customer service,

Like help setting up Facebook ads or

Do you see any companies in our industry that have benefited from the crisis?

What are some of these client demands?

and finance are able to see the same

email marketing as a support of re-ope-

I think that all the brands that started to

picture and act accordingly. The goal

ning their business. Almost becoming a

question what they have been doing for

is to develop our own ØRGREEN model.

digital agency in the process. It has been

years will benefit from this crisis. Those

From there, anything can be built on top,

quite successful, so I think we will carry S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

» I or«

Havn – Stainless Steel Collection ØRGREEN premieres its stainlesssteel styles. Compared to the Ultralight Titanium Collection it offers one thing: more! More volume, more color, more detail.

»Kahera«

this approach forward on top of what we normally do.

One of the new needs everyone is talking about is “sustainability”, which was also accelerated by the coronavirus crisis. What role does ecological responsibility play in your company? Quality and longevity are already embedded in our products and in our thinking. That in itself is a stance in these times so dominated by consumerism. Our recent Quantum 3D collection has

ØRGREEN » Va l de «

been designed with the idea of avoiding overproduction and also with a different approach in the way we use resources. But it takes time to master new techniques and approaches. My personal

» A ma nda «

view is that in order for something to be sustainable, it also needs to be financially viable. If there is no demand, it’s just not sustainable business-wise. We all have families and want to support the new generation but it’s not just about a single solution. It will be great to have more synergies and time among design-

our ØRGREEN way.

And for stainless steel?

er brands and stakeholders to discuss,

Our stainless-steel collection is called

so we can really come up with a set of

Havn, the Danish word for harbor, and it’s

solutions. Instead, I can see there is a lot of greenwashing in the industry just for marketing purposes.

In terms of longevity, you are known for your titanium frames, but you also work with other materials. Where is the journey headed for ØRGREEN?

something entirely new for us.

What’s special about Havn?

talent from design to construction.

Speaking of color references, you are also known for your balanced color design. What is your focus in the new collection? More vibrant colors and different ways of using color. There is a bit of a 1990s trend

A thin metal rim design that creates an

coming back. It’s a period that brings

elegant step-down feature on all of the

back memories from our beginnings and

frames where we really went all-in with colors, creating unique combinations. So a very colorful but still minimal collection

our youth, so we are getting very excited.

And looking ahead, what do you wish for the future?

We stick to high-end materials and

with small details on the front and on

I wish for people to feel better. I wish that

design, combined with colors. This can

the outside, not just on the inside like in

people will make good choices and give

lead us in many directions, and we have

our titanium line. It’s exclusive to North

real value to the way they spent the past

not encountered any boundaries so far.

America for now and that has somehow

three months. I hope we are all going to

We’re launching two new collections, one

defined the genesis of the design con-

be better and rethink our approaches

in titanium and one in stainless steel.

cept; in fact, in this first launch, the color

professionally and personally. And in

reference is U.S. surfing from the 1970s.

the future, invest our time wisely and not

That is one of the best things about

waste it.

What novelties can we expect in your titanium range?

retro look of coil collections but done in

We are launching a new ultra-light Japa-

ØRGREEN: it’s a true cosmopolitan

nese titanium collection inspired by the

product that fuses the best international

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

Thanks for the interview, Henrik. www.orgreenoptics.com

ph ot os SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER at AGENTUR NEUBAUER st y l in g ALEXANDRA DIETL h air & mak e-u p LENA GEHRIG at FAME AGENCY w it h CHANEL & ORIBE model s CATHERINE LEWIS at AMP MODELS, FLORIAN SCHWAB at TUNE MODELS & OLIWIA at MOST WANTED

Lindberg – Celebrating Geometry A Tribute to 100 Years of Eyewear Design

LINDBERG » S pi ri t 2 4 3 4 « & » 9 6 2 5 « o u t f i t s ODEEH, b a g s AIGNER S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

LINDBERG »9745« su i t COS, sh i r t SKINY, s o c ks FALKE, sa n d a l s TEVA

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

For the past 35 years, Danish designer label LINDBERG has commanded a unique position

among the world’s top tier eyewear brands. And year after year, LINDBERG keeps upping the ante with new impulses. The secret? Henrik Lindberg, who established the company alongside his father and master optician Poul-Jørn Lindberg, keeps steering the ship with a clear vision. The result is a combination of award-winning designs and innovative technologies that advance the state of the art in our industry. Boiled down to its bare essence, the design philosophy behind the family business can be summarized in one word: minimalism. The Danish designers eliminate any superfluous elements in search of purpose-led beauty. That’s why LINDBERG frames are free from bolts, rivets and welded joints. Instead, premium materials take center stage in the company’s offering, most of all ultra-light titanium offering the highest comfort of wear. Another signature LINDBERG feature consists of the modular construction. This allows for adjusting all frame components to the personal style of the individual wearer. Consumers have a choice between titanium, gold, and buffalo horn to elevate their dream frames. Meanwhile, luxury choices include rare woods and diamonds, available upon request. No matter what material, the common denominator behind all LINDBERG frames is always a blend between quality and expert

LINDBERG »Fay« & »6586« t o p s BA&SH

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

»9 7 4 7 «

LINDBERG

t o p & pa nts MAX & CO p ump s MANGO

» 6 5 87« ja c k et SPORTMAX

craftsmanship, applied with the ability to surprise and amaze the entire eyewear universe. This year, the innovative legacy continues. The new LINDBERG line introduces new styles that pay tribute to the past 100 years of eyewear design. At the center of the collection, LINDBERG playfully interprets shapes and

geometries, inspired by a variety of impulses from diverse fields such as architecture and art. The new styles arrive as an expansion of LINDBERG’s total of 16 classic collections. And

needless to say, they expand the legacy of functionality, technical innovation, upscale materials, expert craftsmanship and personalization options. The verdict: LINDBERG once again succeeds in achieving a unique balance. On one hand, the Danish designers use delicate accents to add an expressive and unique quality to their eyewear designs. On the other hand, the brand is well aware of the fine line between honoring classic shapes and overshooting the target. As a result, the new additions are classic in shape and highly wearable. Once again proof that one way to move forward lies with taking a closer look at a history of excellence. www.lindberg.com

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

»9747« s u i t TIGER OF SWEDEN t op COS s oc k s FALKE s an dal s TEVA

LINDBERG »6 5 7 7 « sh i r t YOU KNOW YOU WANT IT p a nts BELSTAFF

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

LINDBERG »6 5 8 2 « suit STEFFEN SCHRAUT s h oe s ASOS ha ir clip & rin g BIJOU BRIGITTE

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

UNIQUE EXPERIENCE

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n e c kp i e c e ESTE MUSE 98

SPECTR

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SPECTR

102

S P E C T R // A N N I V E R S A R Y

Thank You! 10 Years of Spectr SPECTR is officially ten years old, or better yet, young! An entire decade is a big milestone for an independent magazine, and we’re looking back at tons of history. Over the course of 30 issues, we have printed more than 6,000 photos and countless lines of copy to accompany the world’s most gorgeous eyewear. We would have loved to dedicate a bit more space to celebrating our anniversary in this issue. But instead, we’ve decided to keep moving forward and showcase what the future has in store, namely tons of new interviews and photo shoots. But for a little trip down memory lane, we’re taking a tour of all our magazine covers over the years. Because over the past ten years, we have been working closely with the best photographers, stylists, hair and make-up artists, models, eyewear designers and company founders to make the magic happen every single issue. Time to say thank you for all your support and creative passion. And also thanks to our loyal readers for their attention and feedback, which we implemented sometimes, not always ; ) On that note, thank you for ten years of SPECTR. We could not have done it without your input and look forward to writing the next chapter with you!

S P E C T R // A N N I V E R S A R Y

103

GÖTTI

»DC0 2 L oop«

» D C0 2 R i m l e s s «

dr e s s FILIPPA K

j u m p e r PETJA ZOREC sh o e s CAMPER

Small detail, great impact: The addition of the Loop ring adds a bolder look to the »DC02« than the rimless version.

Götti Scan to try on GÖTTI favrspecs.com

Perspective Local and independent p h ot og r ap h y WILLIAM FERCHICHI p h ot o as s i s t an t GIUSEPPE VERRILLO s t y l i n g DOMENICO LANDOLFI mak e -u p MARGHERITA LASCALA u si n g THE ORGANIC PHARMACY h ai r RINO RICCIO at MANIFESTO, LONDON u si n g DAVINES & DANIELE ROGIS RIZZO mode l s AMBER DUMIGHAN at LINDEN STAUB, LONDON & OSCAR ROBINSON a t MILK, LONDON

104

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

Three years ago, Swiss eyewear label GÖTTI introduced the Perspective Collection. The main feature: These rimless spectacles offer various opportunities for customizing their shapes and colorways. From understated to loud and bold, the expansion kits are now available in five versions. In the bigger picture, the Perspective Collection is not only a long-time dream come true for company founder Sven Götti, but also brings the manufacturing in-house. SPECTR gets the details from GÖTTI headquarters.

Hello Sven, you have been offering numerous iterations of rimless frames in the Perspective Collection over the years. Is this part of an upcoming trend? I think that we’re seeing a solid trend towards excellent eyewear. Glasses can be designed in various ways. But innovation, fair

the modular kit and expanding these options.

You have also developed a range of different options. That’s correct. Right now these are the Rimless, Loop, Bold, Space and our new Folio versions.

What distinguishes each of these lines?

manufacturing and zeitgeist are must-have components of a pre-

The foundation was the classic rimless model, which is super un-

mium collection today. So with that said, our rimless frames are

derstated and inconspicuous: Rimless. Then we added Loop with

perfectly on-trend.

a delicate rim surrounding the lenses, thereby somewhat enhan-

What do you personally appreciate about rimless frames?

cing the silhouette. By contrast, the Bold system revolves around

It’s most of all the modular concept that fascinates me. The entire

strong, expressive rims. In the Space version, we like to let our

collection is built upon only a few components while offering

creativity run wild – everything is possible. The latest iteration,

unlimited combinations. The main attraction lies with developing

which we’ll be premiering this autumn, is Folio, in which the front S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

105

The Bold ring adds even stronger borders than the Loop …

GÖTTI »B L 0 7 R i ml e ss« & » B L 0 7 B ol d« -

su i t SCOTCH & SODA

section of the frame consists of a flat shield. All variations are

In the Perspective Collection, we’re working with three different

available in three sizes.

metal colors and twelve basic colorways. These colors are

The overall impression of a frame can differ radically depending on the kit.

available for all parts such as nose pads, temple tips and lens

Very much so. Even while maintaining the same basic shape, a

individual taste. This opens up unlimited combinations. All with

classic rimless frame can be transformed into a rather extravagant pair of eyeglasses. This results in an entirely different look and also connects to a different target group. The entire Perspec-

just very few individual parts. You’re manufacturing these glasses in Switzerland. How relevant is localized production to you?

tive Collection merely consists of 24 shapes, which all have a

The process behind developing this eyewear frame system was

different overall look depending on the line.

rather long with several detours and roadblocks. It involves an

In how many colors do you offer the rings? 106

intersections. Everything can be combined freely according to

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

entirely new connection between the lenses and frame, as well

... and adds a strong presence to otherwise rather understated rimless styles.

GÖTTI »O R 0 2 R i ml e ss« & » O R 0 2 B ol d« -

h i s j a c ke t PETJA ZOREC h e r c a r d i g a n WINSOR

as the temple hinges. At the outset, we discussed our idea with

due to previous development efforts, it was only a logical step

countless manufacturers inside and outside the eyewear industry

to bring assembly of the frames in-house. Thanks to the clever

and commissioned several prototypes. But it was to no avail.

production process, entirely free from welding and soldering,

Since this yielded no results, but we still believed in our concept,

we were confident that we could pull off this leap of faith. In the

we had no other choice than to build our own development

beginning, existing employees and members of our sales team

department in which we could focus on making these kinds of

spent the first months assembling the frames until the entire

ideas reality. That provided the impetus for a successful product

process was optimized. Then we gradually began building a

development process and in the next step, also for manufacturing within Switzerland by establishing our own factory. What were the necessary steps towards making it happen? Since we already had all the know-how in place at our company

production crew. From your perspective, what are the main advantages of inhouse manufacturing?

Due to the numerous combination options, every pair of glasses S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

107

The effect is even more pronounced in the Space applications: They alter the entire look of a frame, in this case the »PR03«.

GÖTTI »PR03 L oop« & » PR 0 3 S pa c e « h i s c o a t CORTILI h e r d r e ss WINSOR

is produced individually. And that’s only possible by working with

also of interest for our opticians and end consumers, who want to

experienced employees on-site. On the other hand, it’s a gratify-

know where a product comes from and how it’s made.

ing experience to develop a product from start to finish and then make it at your own factory. And what are the big-picture advantages?

Well, we did not encounter any disruptions or long wait times

The entire system with its limited number of individual compo-

with our producers in Germany and Japan. But the lockdown did

nents and the production set-up as a factory is extremely low

wreak havoc on our inventory planning. With our in-house ma-

impact on resources, and thereby represents a positive approach

nufacturing, we enjoy far better control and are able to respond

towards nature. What’s more, we directly control our working

from one day to the next.

conditions. This honest and transparent way is not only fun but is 108

In-house production also unlocks a large degree of independence. Has that paid off in light of world events so far this year?

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

www.gotti.ch

CREDIT PHOTO ULRICH HARTMANN

The Rediscovery Of Craftsmanship

Scan to try on EYEVAN favrspecs.com

Eyevan Brings Heritage into the Here-and-Now p h ot os EYEVAN

Instead of constantly trying to innovate a new way forward, sometimes it can prove useful to take some lessons from the past. Especially when you can draw on a rich professional heritage. For this reason, the creative minds at Japanese eyewear brand EYEVAN conceptualized a new collection, titled Rediscovery of Craftsmanship. Aside from EYEVAN’s long brand history, the collection is also inspired by Japan’s eminent legacy of craftsman techniques and skilled manufacturing. The results are premium and gorgeous. SPECTR has the highlights. www.eyevaneyewear.com

EYEVAN » 6 39« Daruma-style rim The cross section of this frame looks like the popular Japanese good luck charms known as Daruma. They are considered helpful granters of wishes and also provided a good source of inspiration for this gorgeous frame.

110

S P E C T R // D E T A I L S

Laminating process Bridge, temples and temple tips are either entirely or partially laminated. Also a method hailing back to the 1980s, originally developed by the

EYEVAN

EYEVAN design team.

» 754«

»317«

»7 4 1 R X«

Engravings with arabesque patterns The arabesque patterns found on the bridge and temples were carried over from earlier collections. The original reliefs are hand-carved by experienced craftsmen on alloyed surfaces.

»7 5 0 «

S P E C T R // D E T A I L S

111

EYEVAN » 315«

“Cell within cell”

»3 1 4 «

In the 1980s, EYEVAN developed a manufacturing process in which the core of the temples is decorated with delicate engravings. And even 40 years later, this style looks as stylish and relevant as ever.

»318«

The connective bolt As a true throwback to modernist design, the connective bolt is simple and efficient. In order to connect a frame and temple element, the pin the size of a needle slides into a specific groove that lends stability to the overall frame.

112

S P E C T R // D E T A I L S

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114

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115

GÖTTI » D C07 B old« sh irt LE EDITION 2020

116

SPECTR

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117

AD LIB »A B 3 2 7 5 « j ac k e t ANGELO FRENTZOS, s h i r t DAVII

118

SPECTR

AD LIB »AB 3315« o u t f i t LE EDITION 2020

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119

RODENSTOCK »R3322« -

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120

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j a c ke t LE EDITION 2020

SPECTR

121

BOGNER

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122

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SPECTR

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126

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CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »La Desiree« j a c ke t CHAMPION

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129

MEXX »6465« j a c ke t ESSENTIAL ANTWERP j u m p e r LEVI’S

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132

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BAARS »M o r a n e « j a c k e t & ho o d ie LEVI’S

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133

METROPOLITAN » 8066« -

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134

SPECTR

METROPOLITAN »8 0 6 7 «

»8068« SPECTR

135

Timeless style, modern design language, Japanese acetate: For all those looking to add some finesse to their daily lives.

Timeless Scan to try on SALT. favrspecs.com

Effort Salt. Highlights for Eternity Hey Ben and Trevor, please introduce yourselves to our readers. Benjamin Montoya: We’ve each been in

the space for many years, both at other pho to s KATERYNA KUHL

major eyewear brands. We also owned retail, ran labs, and so on. We’re certified

It may seem strange to speak with an opticians, and we approach design with a eyewear brand about its latest frame dedeep knowledge of that world. Trevor Dylan Kelley: The pursuit of susigns when this brand explicitly maintains perior optics with timeless styles is very that their designs will last for the next 50 years. And not just in terms of quality, but important to us, and SALT. is a great fit in that regard. also regarding overall style. Then again, that’s exactly what SALT. is doing, both in Timelessness is a fundamental aspect terms of product quality and styling. Lon- of your eyewear designs. What is your gevity is deeply engrained in the California approach? BM: Well, there’s usually a bit of whiskey eyewear brand’s DNA, so the letter “T” in involved (laughs). We genuinely love the company name stands for ‘timelessthe history of eyewear, so we’re always ness’. Nevertheless, SALT. never rests on its chatting about some aspect of it. The laurels and keeps surprising with innovabest part about doing this process with tive products again and again as a truly a partner is that if an idea really excites premium eyewear brand. In our SPECboth of us, it’s a good sign that we’re TR interview, Design Director Benjamin onto something unique. TDK: Once we come up with an idea for Montoya and Product Line Manager Trevor a new design or new approach, the rest Dylan Kelley provide insights into the creausually happens pretty fast. We sketch it tive approach behind heirloom eyewear. 136

S P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

out, make sure everything works to scale, do some photo-realistic drawings, and ultimately send it on to prototyping.

Let’s get to your latest C1-20 Collection. What are the main features in a nutshell? TDK: The 2020 collection is really our

way of doing timeless original pieces. The core categories of eyewear haven’t changed much over the last 50 to 70 years. SALT. is a core brand, and if we’re going to play in that space, then we want to be able to deconstruct what worked about those original vintage pieces, then incorporate those aspects into our original designs.

»Sandia« and »Hillier«, for example, are feminine frames with class and elegance. Is that a new ambition? BM: That was absolutely the ambition for

those frames, but we don’t think of it as a

SALT. » F ul l e r 4 8 «

»S pe nc e r 4 8 «

»M undo«

S P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

137

SALT. »Tiffa ny«

» H i l l i e r«

to last over a hundred years, and it’s important to us that we make eyewear that ages in style with the same effortlessness that it ages in quality. We don’t want to make anything that is disposable.

The »Fuller« frame is a unisex model. Which type of woman or man did you have in mind for these glasses? BM: Anybody who wants to wear a pair

of frames that look just as good 50 years from now as they do today. We want it to be a piece that lasts forever in both quality and style.

»Sandia«

One last question that we have always wanted to ask: where do the names of your frames come from? BM: Great question. SALT. takes its inspi-

ration from nature, and each collection is based on a specific natural region or process, so the names come from that collection’s natural region.

What do you particularly like about this collection?

And how about this new collection?

BM: We talk a lot about heirloom qua-

endorheic basins around the world.

lity, items that can be passed down or

These are places that naturally produce

rediscovered a couple of generations

beautiful pink and orange colored lakes,

TDK: That was such a pure time for

later. We wear frames that are going on

and eventually become salt flats. Each

eyewear. There are a lot of basic con-

75 years old, and are still in great shape,

2020 release is named after a different

cepts that they really got right during

and we’re using better processes and

the mid-century. So understanding those

materials to make our eyewear now.

new ambition necessarily. We just want to make eyewear that will be something you can wear for a lifetime and feel good in.

The model »Fuller« is inspired by the 1960s. But why exactly this decade?

concepts and then building on them is a necessity to driving the product forward. 138

S P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

What is the result? TDK: These new pieces are easily going

TDK: The 2020 collection is based on

endorheic basin around the world.

Wow, thanks for all your time and insights. www.saltoptics.com

SABABA

Limited Edition

Sustainable Is The New Normal Eco – A 2020 Update

ECO » B ry c e «

»Ga il«

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photos KATERYNA KUHL

Hardly any other eyewear label pursues sustainability as a mission statement as much as ECO. True to its name, the brand based in New York, Milano and Stockholm has put ecological considerations front and center since day one. We speak to ECO’s Giovanni Lo Faro about the many levels on which ECO implements sustainability as a fundamental part of the company’s success.

Hi Giovanni, when did you launch the ECO brand?

process. What are the advantages?

made from recycled plastic bottles. POP

Yes, the resin we use in our Biobased

materials range from recycled paper to

We launched ECO in 2009 with the goal

Collection is made mostly from castor

recycled plastic to bamboo, another low-

of bringing about a game change in our

oil. The castor plant is non-edible, this

to-no impact plant. Finally, and just as

sector. A lot has happened since then

way we don’t impact the food chain. It

importantly, all frames are shipped in our

and we are happy to look back at the

can be grown and harvested without any

biodegradable corn starch bag instead

impact we have made so far.

significant impact. The material also has

of the traditional plastic poly bags. If we

a great look and feel and is lighter and

consider that these bags are mono-use

more flexible than regular acetate. The

and that we sold two million ECO frames

result is an innovative material with a

and sunglasses so far, the reduced im-

We chose the ECO name to convey what

drastically reduced plastic content, ma-

pact amounts to a few million bags in the

we are about and how we stand out from

king our Biobased frames lightweight and

next few years for one eyewear brand

the other brands in the market.

comfortable, as well as sustainable.

alone!

The brand name directly states your commitment to sustainability. Why was that important to you from the start?

How exactly do you define ‘sustainability’ and in which areas are you applying it? Sustainability to us means finding a way

Your collection also includes metal frames. How do you strive for sustainability in this category?

That’s a powerful achievement. What mood do you want to convey to your customers with ECO?

of making and marketing things that is

Our metal frames are made with 95%

Look Good, Feel Good, Do Good. ECO

conscious about their impact on the pla-

recycled stainless steel. This is a huge

embodies a lifestyle that is positive,

net. We believe that growth and develop-

saving considering that we only use 5%

conscious and fun. We can all make a

ment are compatible with the increasing

of new resources! The metal is post-

difference through small gestures, while

need to respect natural resources. Sus-

consumer. This means we give existing

looking good and enjoying life. This is

material a new life.

what the brand and its communications

tainability is becoming the new normal. More and more people understand that it is not a choice or style of doing things, but a necessary new way of taking into

Beyond the actual products, in which areas are you minimizing your environmental impact?

account the impact of our actions.

We complete the 360-degree circle

Speaking of impact, you implement castor seed oil in your manufacturing

of sustainability across all the other touchpoints of the brand. Packaging is

stand for. Eco-chic is the way we see style and fashion evolving in the future. A sense of purpose and a story to tell more than a logo to exhibit.

What kind of consumer are you addressing with ECO?

S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

141

ECO » B on a i r e « Design upgrade: These clip-ons transform delicate, classic metal frames into bold and expressive sunglasses within seconds.

»Quebec«

We address the growing need for brands and products with identity and purpose. Millennials, the generation of 20-to40-year-olds that embodies this evolution, from displaying a status symbol to

styles, five plastics and five metals. The

energy of this brand.

carryover collection is over one hundred

Your optical glasses are always available with a sun clip-on. What creative freedom does this give you?

telling a story about what they believe in,

Yes, a magnetic sun clip-on. We love the

tend to be particularly receptive to this

idea of turning the optical frame into a

approach.

sunglass with a simple click. It started

frames and sunglasses. We work with over eighty markets and this is the best way to curate the right collection for each region.

Your initiatives also include the One Frame – One Tree campaign. What is behind it?

But the need for sustainable products also exists in older target groups?

as a functional statement, as the polarized clip-on transforms your frame into

Actually, ECO’s One Frame – One Tree

Absolutely. Sustainability is becoming

a protective sunglass in a snap. It then

program has been running since our

mainstream because it is not a trend but

evolved into a design opportunity.

launch in 2009. It is about planting a

a growing awareness. There is only one

In what sense?

tree for every frame purchased. So far,

earth to inhabit, at least until Elon Musk

The clip-on allows us to play with shapes

we have planted over two million trees.

takes us to Mars. This is even more true

and volumes, details and colors. Making

The idea is to give something back to

when there is no compromise involved,

it at times different than the frame – funki-

the planet and provide our customers an

neither in terms of quality or price. This

er as a sunglass to wear when going out

opportunity to make a difference. Trees

is what makes the brand appealing to a

to play, more classic as an optical frame

clean the air, provide food to humans and

broader audience.

when going to work. As we evolved this

animals. They also help improve living

concept, we engineered an application of

standards for local communities. Our

Style that matters. Design-driven yet

the clip-on thin metal frames that made

partner Trees For The Future is an NGO

wearable. Fashion conscious more than

us win the iF Gold award, one of the most

that plants trees in Africa and trains the

fashion victim.

coveted prizes in the design world.

locals in agroforestry, so that they can

Is there a basic design guideline for ECO?

How about the color palette, is it rather loud or quiet? While we have a passion for subtle nuances, we do include some warm and

142

vibrant hues that convey the positive

S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

That is a big milestone. Looking at the current line, how many styles does it include? The FW20 collection includes ten new

make the best use of their land.

Thanks for the interview, Giovanni. www.eco-eyewear.com

neubau-eyewear.com

Le Sustain Puts Environment First New Eco-Conscious Collection from Le Specs

LE SPECS » G ra ssy K nol l «

» G ra ss B a nd«

» Gr a s s H a l f F u l l «

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S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N C H E C K

p h ot os RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Australian eyewear mainstays LE SPECS have built a strong following, especially among young wearers, over the past few years. With the new Le Sustain Collection, the youthful label with roots in the surfing hotbed Bondi Beach meets the rising demand for sustainably manufactured products. The environmental focus applies on several levels: From reduction of manufacturing waste to implementation of recycled materials. In this Collection Check, the label’s Creative Director Hamish Tame explains the two-year development process and its overall impact on LE SPECS.

materials that reduce our environmental footprint, whilst also helping to eliminate unnecessary waste and landfill.

Do you feel that young generations, with whom LE SPECS is very popular, are paying attention to sustainability in their purchase decisions? Sustainability across all industries is now something younger generations have come to expect. They don’t expect us to have all

Hello, Hamish, with Le Sustain you’re taking a step towards a sustainable future. What was the inspiration? The concept behind Le Sustain is to promote conversation within the eyewear industry and with our consumers on how we can create a more sustainable future together.

What is your personal take on this topic? For me, the sustainability path is

the answers, but rather welcome honest conversations. And to know that we are doing our best to help solve what is a global concern. Sustainability isn’t a recent issue, but I think that social media has really allowed this generation’s voice to be heard.

What are specific topics that young consumers are pushing for?

The specific topics and issues around sustainability can be quite endless, but I think that the overarching matters that we need to address are the natural resources we are taking from the environment and renewable alternatives. Also how we reuse and recycle and reducing pollution.

Has the coronavirus crisis accelerated this development?

our only future. As a leading brand

The coronavirus pandemic tem-

for millennials and Gen-Z, it is our

porarily has taken the focus from

responsibility to use our platform

environmental issues, but when we

and voice in the industry to help

emerge from this crisis the con-

make a change for the better for

versation on sustainability will be

generations to come.

How did you translate this approach on a product level?

more important than ever.

What exactly makes the Le Sustain collection sustainable?

Our motivation behind the Le Sus-

The frame materials used in our

tain collection is to innovate with

Le Sustain collection are carefully

new manufacturing techniques and

developed and vetted to minimize S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N C H E C K

145

The Le Sustain Collection lives up to its name...

than trying to hide it. The material is softer than polycarbonate or TR90, so all temples are reinforced with wire

... The LE SPECS formula for sustainability consists of 23% meadow grass and 77% recycled polymers.

cores to ensure that the frame doesn’t become warped or misshapen.

The resulting look is really coherent. How many models are in the collection? Our launch collection features three styles and seven pieces, with an additional eleven pieces launching January 2021.

environmental impact, while the packaging is recycled and zero-waste.

Speaking of materials, what goes inside the frames exactly? All frames in our launch collection are made from 23% meadow grass sustainably grown and sourced from closed-loop German farms and 77% recycled preconsumer plastic from pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry waste.

What are the specific challenges in using these materials and what are their properties compared to conventional materials?

In a move that may seem radical to the eyewear industry, the entire collection is waste and plastic polybag free. Each sunglass is securely packaged in a microfiber pouch made from recycled water bottles, which is then packed inside a recycled cardboard box printed with soy-based ink. We have comprehensively tested the packaging in comparison to polybags to ensure that the frames cannot be damaged in

transit. We also know that we will need to work with both our retailer partners and consumers on shifting the mindsets that ‘plastic polybags are a necessity’.

In terms of mindsets, do you see the customers’ desire for sustainable products as a trend or permanent shift? I believe that the demand for sustainability from consumers will become an expectation, not an option.

Are you continuing on this path at LE SPECS? For everyone at LE SPECS, sustainability in both our products and packaging is

It has indeed taken us over two years of

the way forward. This is an issue that is

research and development to work with

too enormous and too important for us

our manufacturing partners to overcome

to ignore, or not play our part in creating

the technical challenges of using new

a solution. We are currently working on

materials such as these. Aesthetically

new sustainable initiatives that will be

there are limitations with the colors and

rolled out across our mainline and opti-

textures available with the materials,

cal collections over the coming seasons.

which we have worked around by promoting the texture as a feature, rather 146

Besides the materials, in which segments do you conserve resources?

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N C H E C K

Thanks for the interview and all the best. www.lespecs.com

Fleye Copenhagen Scan to try on FLEYE favrspecs.com

Elements Of Art From Soaps to Frames p h ot os RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

FLEYE Copenhagen presents Elements of Art, a co-

llection of eyewear at the intersection between old and new, light and dark, art and design. Following a short, pandemic-related radio silence, Scandinavian eyewear label FLEYE Copenhagen is back with a new collection. Encompassing a total of six new frames, it is a tribute to Denmark’s Thorvaldsens Museum. Dedicated to preserving the works and memories of influential sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the museum is a testament to the Danish tradition of art and architecture. The museum is a guaranteed dose of feel-good vibes, especially on a dreary day, with its richly colored walls, ornamented ceilings and mosaic tile floors, all crafted from Bertel Thorvaldsen marble. Complemented by gypsum sculptures in ornamental lighting, it makes for an unforgettable showcase.

Inside the artistic process The FLEYE design team also found the Thorvaldsens Museum unforgettable and used it as inspiration for the current collection. The overall goal: FLEYE’s designers sought to blend elements of the

museum’s architecture and art exhibits into frame designs. They began by experimenting with the modelling process at the outset of a marble sculpture and placed it within a contemporary

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S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N C H E C K

FLEYE » Ma ri an n a « With a subtle family resemblance to its sister mode »Anne«, the »Marianna« strikes an elegant yet more rounded note. In that way, it complements the Elements of Art collection as the

bridge between the hexagonal »Anne« and the feminine »Diana«. The colorways feature the powerful pattern inspirations from Thorvaldsen’s work in acetate, but the plain version also dazzles on the strength of its frame geometry.

» A nne « The unique features on the temples of the »Diana« shine front and center on the »Anne« frame. The hexagonal frame shines in an array of brightly colored patterns as well as in understated white. The classic, understated golden temples offer a smart contrast to the front section.

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N C H E C K

149

context. Instead of molding elements from clay, the designers used soap as their raw material, which they proceeded to craft into a diverse number of shapes, colors, and patterns in the style of Thorvaldsen’s works. In the next step, the team stacked the molded blocks of soap on top of each other, thereby creating unique artistic sculptures and a foundation for novel eyewear designs. This is how a range of fascinating, almost graphical art sculptures found their way into the frames depicted here from the Elements of Art collection. The solid color blocking and fascinating patterns from the museum’s interior were directly applied to the new colorways and engravings of the eyewear designs. The same goes for the patterns and transparency effects created by light reflections. The ten frames of the new collection – each available in four colorways – represent the intersection between art and craftsmanship as a showcase of FLEYE’s vision for modern, enduring designs. www.fleye.dk

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S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N C H E C K

FLEYE » E dw a rd « The contrast between the thick beta-titanium borders and delicate upper bridge makes this frame an absolute eyecatcher. With rounded shapes and soaked in rich navy blue, the »Edward« is a flattering addition to practically every male face.

»Pa n« A unisex frame showcases delicate, rounded curvatures with the makings of a true classic. The »Pan« appears radiant in subtle night blue or matted rosé. For the final artistic touch, the art-inspired frame boasts grain structure along the temple tips.

»Diana« With its delicate butterfly shape, the »Diana« could hardly strike a more feminine note. The softly contoured beta-titanium is available in soft hues such as rosé and white. The Thorvaldsen-inspired patterns at the temple tips complete a stunning frame.

»Hila ro« Featuring a sexy half-rim, the »Hilaro« takes its place among stylish unisex frames that are somewhere between classic and extravagant. No need to choose a side, the »Hilaro« does both with style and art-inspired swagger!

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N C H E C K

151

Acetate meets flat metal in an accomplished hybrid collection from Berlin.

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S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

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Last things first: The brandnew Italic Collection dazzles with dynamic, elegantly curved outlines, supplemented by flat metal on acetate with rich color splashes.

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S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

153

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Ultralight Collection Three-dimensional luxury pieces are created via bending, pressing and folding. Always understated, but never boring.

It’s been three years since the launch of HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER. How has the brand developed since then?

This year also marked the opening of your store in Seoul. Why South Korea?

Daniel: We’re on a strong path with a product portfolio that

Daniel: The store in Seoul came about due to the initiative of our

has created a USP and distinct positioning for our brand. The

friend, Sean Lee, who also runs our distribution in South Korea

Ultralight Collection has had an excellent market response. A

with his firm, Noah Company. While retail isn’t one of our top

continued focused exploration on the ‘flat metal’ concept proves

priorities at the moment, we are absolutely aware that having

to be the right way forward – here we truly benefit from our

flagship stores makes an enormous contribution to building brand

twenty years of experience. We will pursue this direction, always

awareness. The chance to open a store in Seoul with a reliable

seeking to expand our offerings with innovative collections, and

partner was an opportunity we couldn’t let slip away.

providing our customers with a diverse and sellable selection of premium eyewear.

What were some of the most important milestones along the way? Jean-Pierre: The development of our Ultralight concept revealed

154

ULTRALIGHT COLLECTION Last year you first introduced the Ultralight Collection. What are some of the design principles behind the line?

new ideas and opened up novel opportunities. When we finally

Daniel: One of the fundamental ideas is the transition from 2D to

got to hold that first prototype with the new rivet hinge we said,

3D, meaning from a surface to a three-dimensional object via the

“This is it!”

concept of folding. As architects and designers, this is a design

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

principle that we’ve always worked with, an approach that informs the design of all of our products.

A signature HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER design: The delicate hinges.

What keeps you hooked? Philipp: We have always been fascinated by objects that are

created through bending, pressing and folding, and we have stayed true to this obsession for over twenty years – it’s our savoir-faire. This type of approach is fundamentally different from the production of conventional metal frames. Our raw material is cut from a coil and then makes its way to the cutting table. When making the cuts you already need to anticipate all added parts, both from a technical and aesthetic viewpoint. And it’s always great to see how additional refinement processes (e.g. sanding, polishing, and coating) might transform a seemingly unremarkable piece of sheet metal into a luxury item within a short amount of time.

You also created a special hinge concept for this collection. What’s the principle? Philipp: We wanted to work in a more sophisticated manner, so

we decided to eliminate the technical-looking hinge. But when you minimize the size of components, you soon find you reach the limit of what’s possible. A folding hinge without screws would have required us to reduce the thickness of the material once again. This means we eventually came up with the concept of the rivet, which thus far had not been used as an eyewear hinge. The rivet is extremely delicate, can never be disconnected, and has a recognizable look.

portfolio. Our customers need to be able to find what they are

Jean-Pierre: The most important aspect is the absence of any

looking for without being overwhelmed by an excessive offe-

kind of complicated folds in the sheet metal, which allows us to

ring, so our collections are highly curated and adjusted to the

increase the thickness from 0.5mm to 0.6mm. That’s one-tenth of

demands of our end customers.

a millimeter, meaning 20% extra material, which makes an enormous difference at this scale. Although our frames are now more

ULTRALIGHT PLUS COLLECTION

delicate – measuring something close to the thickness of a wire – they feel far stiffer than their predecessors and with a higher level of adjustability because the new 0.6mm material offers less hardness.

The frames strike a very delicate and elegant appearance. How do you create this effect?

This year, you also premiered the Ultralight Plus Collection with a bit more playful attitude. What are the main differences? Philipp: Our Ultralight Plus frames are select models from the

Ultralight Collection that have been fitted with an acetate Windsor ring. It’s an instant fit for classic round and panto shapes because

Philipp: One of the most important differentiators to our previous

the Windsor ring style was commonplace, used since the 1930s

products is the appearance that has been reduced to the purest

as a way to accentuate the outlines and overall appearance of

form of the metal frame – no extras! When all edges of the steel

eyeglasses. For us, it also becomes a welcome tool in our arse-

are rounded properly, including those of the nose bridge and

nal, allowing us to ‘dress up’ any model in our collection, such as

temple tips, there’s no longer a need for add-on components.

fashion-driven models like the »Delavault«, with an overall effect

The essence of metal takes center stage and even adds a jewel-

that is anything but classic-looking.

ry-like character to the product, which is a key aspect for us. That

And how many frames are in this collection?

already worked well in the oval ‘Schubertbrille’ frame design 150

Tjarko: Initially, we focused on our bestsellers and key styles

years ago, so why not today.

for the upgraded acetate Windsor rings, primarily looking to add

Overall, how many different frames are part of the Ultralight Collection?

color and broader outlines. This was really well received and significantly strengthened our presence in the retail marketplace.

Tjarko: We’re heading into autumn with five new releases:

Now we want to continue to expand this concept in a thought-

»Warner« and »Bradford« (ultra-delicate, square/rectangular),

ful manner, meaning that we now have specifically designed

»Nolan« (understated hexagon shape, 1960s-inspired), »Daphne«

models, such as the »Warner« and »Bradford«, for the Ultralight

(delicate cat-eye), and »Phoebe« (large, feminine cat-eye). It is

Plus Collection. However, we ended up liking them just as much

extremely important for us to offer a broad and balanced product

without the inserts and now they’re part of both collections. We’ll S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

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The Ultralight Plus models shine in elegant colorways, including Havana.

»W

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S& NE »D ela UME I va u l t STE R «

Ultralight Plus Collection: The acetate Windsor ring adds more visibility to select styles.

size of our collections.

The sheet metal also appears to be stronger. Are you trying to increase stability? soon also offer silicone temple tip coverings for customers with

Jean-Pierre: Yes and it’s also an important characteristic that

sensitivity around pressure points and metal allergies.

differentiates each of our collections from one another. The thick-

Would you say that Ultralight Plus is aimed at a different type of customer?

ness of the material creates a new tactile sensation, so overall, it feels more robust. This not only creates a significant difference

Tjarko: Not necessarily but some faces just correspond better to

to our previous implementation of sheet metal, but to the current

a more pronounced silhouette – it’s all about the strength of the

offerings on the market.

frame’s outlines. With Plus, there’s also a classic color spectrum

In how far does that affect comfort of wear?

at play: light and dark shades of Havana, translucent green,

Jean-Pierre: The added weight is actually negligible, with the

denim blue and a light gray.

main advantage being the optimized adjustability. The temples are shaped like wraparound wire and molded around the ears.

ITALIC COLLECTION

How many different models are part of the Italic Collection? Philipp: We will be introducing five models: Three explicitly femi-

With the Italic Collection, you’re about to drop a third line that will hit retail in late 2020/early 2021. Is the name a reference to cursive typefaces?

nine styles and two unisex frames.

What can we expect from HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER in the future?

Philipp: The names of all our collections correspond to the no-

Daniel: With the Ultralight Collection we have created a success-

menclature and logic of typefaces: ‘Ultralight’ represents delicate

ful premium collection that is highly recognizable. We’ve estab-

outlines, while ‘Italic’ denotes curved, dynamic contours. The

lished a presence in Europe, North America, the Middle East, and

classification of typefaces is a valid analogy for us, since design-

Asia, and the response has been great. We’re not only passiona-

ing a font is all about nuances, much like eyewear design: if just

te designers and inventors, we also deeply appreciate our inter-

one minuscule detail is off, the results are rendered unusable.

actions with opticians and distributors. As the future unfolds, we

Overall, the frames appear bolder than the Ultralight Collection. What are the key characteristics? Tjarko: The connection between sheet metal and acetate repre-

want to continue positively shaping our industry and community.

We know that you have additional collections and collaborations in the works. Where do you get the motivation?

sents the next logical step for us, not least because we wanted

Philipp: Without a doubt it comes from enjoying what we do. And

to introduce more color. At the same time, it allows us to broaden

we are driven to always remain at least one step ahead in our

the contours – the weight of an outline is an important instrument

research. That’s what continues to motivate us every day.

for perfecting our portfolio. Our goal is to arrive at the maximum variety of shapes and colors, without unnecessarily inflating the 156

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N T A L K

www.haffmansneumeister.com

Collection iconique ek.fr

New Key Products To Go p h ot os RAPHAEL SCHMITZ, w o r d s DIRK VOGEL

Collection Highlights from 22 Brands with Virtual Try-On

Isometric perspective is a particular aerial view of threedimensional objects. It looks ultra-clean because parallel lines never converge but run side-by-side without a vanishing point. Here’s what also doesn’t vanish – gorgeous eyewear from the world’s leading independent brands! That’s why SPECTR is showcasing the latest sunnies and spectacles in this unique photo shoot. The best part: You can try these frames right now, in the privacy of your home, by using the Virtual Try-On feature of our platform FAVR – Premium Eyewear Finder. Just scan our QR codes, which lead you directly to the products. Enjoy!

Find all new key products here.

S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

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Barton Perreira

Timeless Elegance

» R ourk e « The masterful »Rourke«

When LA-based eyewear brand

model renders a classic

BARTON PERREIRA drops new

panto shape in a clean

styles, the global audience is

and bold design. Subtle

listening. This season, designers

details include handcraf-

and eyewear industry icons

ted beveling, sculpted

Bill Barton and Patty Perreira

for the perfect balance

present sunglasses that blend

and fit. Pictured here in a

quintessential California cool

gorgeous tortoise finish

with a dose of luxury. The com-

with a transparent bottom

mon denominator behind these

section and Vintage Blue

three beauties? The combinati-

lenses, this sartorial style

on of precise craftsmanship and

is available in both opti-

transparent zyl acetate – all

cal and sun versions.

frames are handmade in Japan – is a masterclass in timeless elegance.

» Domi no« Inspired by vintage sunglasses seen in classic Fellini movies, the »Domino« is a contemporary interpretation of a classic. Depicted in a gorgeous transpa-

» S h a ng ri- La«

square shape exudes an extra dose of

Hold on to your hearts, because the »Shangri-La«

luxury thanks to sterling construction

model is here to make a big entrance this summer. The

and hinges in gold finish. Available in

oversized cat-eye silhouette features upswept angles for a feminine and luxurious edge. But the sculpted frame is ever so wearable and lofty, thanks to the use of Blue Smoke transparent acetate, fitted with matching Aegean Gradient lenses. Meow! 160

rent acetate finish with tinted lenses, the

S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

both optical and sun.

» Oak s«

» A nni e « As an elegant round frame, the »Annie«

The »Oaks« mo-

is guaranteed to break hearts this

del dazzles with a

season. As in all models of the new

distinct mix of retro

Blackfin Razor Collection, the sculpted

style and high-tech

nose bridge balances the vintage-

manufacturing. The delicate square frame sets a new standard in precise titanium processing. In the big picture, the

inspired frame design. For stylish accents, the frame features contrasts between shiny and matted metal surfaces and anatomic nose pads in one of the

new collection rounds

lightest BLACK-

out current offerings

FIN frames of

like Blackfin One and

all time.

Blackfin Aura.

»Zara« Is it still a round frame or

Blackfin

All About »Neomadeinitaly« Many eyewear brands strive for high quality, but only few attain a level like BLACKFIN. Perhaps it’s due to the headquarter location up high in the Dolomite mountains. This is where BLACKFIN specializes in creating premium titanium frames with ultra-light constructions and stylish designs. True to the motto ‘neomadeinitaly’, the label relies on regional manufacturing and expert craftsmanship dating back to the founding days in the early 1990s. Shown here: A selection of three classic frame geometries from the brand-new Blackfin Razor Collection that’s lighter

‘geometric’ in shape? Upon closer inspection, the lens fittings in the »Zara« might appear hexagonal, but the edges are smooth enough to create a sculpted overall impression. The big eyecatcher is the playful color contrast along the temples, in this case a succulent Metallic Blue paired with specifically created hinge designs. Sweet!

than ever thanks to treating 1mm titanium sheet with micromechanical processes and the addition of a new one-piece hinge.

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»B a rke e pe r« True to its name, the »Barkeeper« model is a trustworthy companion. The front section rendered in premium natural acetate in a coffee colorway combines smoothly with temples crafted from sustainably sourced ebony wood. Subtle details include a stylish keyhole bridge and adjustable temple tips. Without a doubt, it’s one tasty beverage!

» La Pri ncesse« Elegant wood grain meets gold accents in the »La Princesse« model. Fit for a queen, the cat eye sunglasses include delicate

Einstoffen

micro-engravings on the temples and gold fittings around the anti-reflective lenses. Built

Nature Meets Urbanity

for maximum stability in EINSTOFFEN’s proprietary wood

Swiss lifestyle label EINSTOFFEN

ply construction using sustain-

operates in a league of its own.

able sources. Pictured here in

With not one, but four German

the Royal Chestnut colorway,

Design Awards under its belt, the

this stunner won the German

aesthetics-driven brand has been

Design Award in 2018 and still

dropping eye-catching glasses

reigns supreme today.

and sunglasses since 2008. The secret? Inspiration way beyond the tight eyewear universe! Initially started as a streetwear label,

»R ollbrettfa hre r«

EINSTOFFEN draws influences

from nature, art, film and music For those who enjoy life in the fast lane, the unisex »Rollbrettfahrer« (German for: Skateboarder) sunglasses offer an

Nature of the Alps Meets Urban

instant confidence boost. The robust titanium frame in a gold

Lifestyle.” And as the three beau-

and gunmetal finish makes a bold impression, enhanced by

ties in this showcase demonstrate,

carefully appointed details. The octagonal frame is fitted with

their blend of nature and urbanity

anti-reflective CR39 lenses and includes riveted side visors. Teardrop-shaped temple tips provide a secure fit, even when you’re charging full speed. 162

true to the motto: “Where Raw

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is looking better than ever.

» Ma rti « For an understated update on the classic aviator sunglasses, look no further than the »Marti« model. Crafted from premium titanium with a gold finish, the delicate wire frame features stoppable hinges and comfortable nose pads. The bridge rests high on the frame, creating an ultra-modern look enhanced by colored UVprotective lenses.

»M a l e c o n - E « Sculpted, three-dimensional and timeless: The »Malecon-E« is a bold acetate frame created with advanced technology. A hydraulic press converts six-millimeter acetate into a curve-shaped, eight-millimeter frame with gorgeous curvature. Luxe details include a triple pin on the hinges and riveted

Eyevan

A Modern Zeitgeist

temple tips. Each of these beauties is handmade and completed with delicate care – and it shows.

How does a brand continue to set new trends with masterful designs since 1972? In the case of Japanese brand EYEVAN, the answer lies in keeping a finger on the pulse of current design and fashion styles. Plus, exclusively relying on small batch production, traditional Japanese craftsmanship and only the most exclusive raw materials. Fashions may change, but EYEVAN retains its relevance – and so do these three models.

»Va l l e - E « For those who prefer acetate frames in a more delicate package, the »Valle-E« optical model makes a strong proposition. Crafted from fourmillimeter acetate in a tortoise finish, the clean rectangular shape represents the essence of EYEVAN’s design DNA. Refined de-

tails like a keyhole bridge and ornamented hinges underline a perfectly executed silhouette that can safely be called a modern-day classic. S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

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Face à Face

Mastering the French Style FACE À FACE has been setting trends

»Tw i s t 1 « True to its name, the »Twist 1« model adds finesse and geometric shapes to a classic de-

among French eyewear brands for 25

sign. Crafted in a rocking

years now. In 1995, the independent

motion, the metal circles

label started under the leadership of

step sideways and skirt

Pascal Jaulent and Nadine Roth. The

the lens. This optical

mission: To create a French eyewear

trick is made possible

design company based on modernity

by a small metal cylin-

and creativity without compromise. In-

der hiding an exclusive

spired by architecture, modern art and

hinge. The temple twists

fashion, FACE À FACE eyewear likes to

are also ‘twisted’ by the

play with volumes, shapes, textures and

hands of artisans.

materials. And as this page demonstrates, the results are delicious.

»P e p p s 2 « Sophistication and bold, feminine elegance: The »Pepps 2« sunglasses combine a sculpted acetate front and tortoise bridge into one of the season’s most intriguing styles. For all sophisticated women who know what they want, this is the perfect calling card.

» P ix el 3 « Bold, round frame meets ‘pixelated’ accents: The »Pixel 3« model challenges convention by adding squared outlines to the front section – reminiscent of pixel art and video games – connected to transparent temples featuring geometric tips. Definite eyecatcher in quintessential FACE À FACE style.

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Gigi Studios

From Barcelona With Love Hailing from the Spanish lifestyle capital of Barcelona, GIGI STUDIOS is forever inspired by art and new trends. A constant search for innovation, the visionary use of materials and a wealth of experience in eyewear design are the defining elements behind GIGI Studios’ collections. With a strong emphasis on handmade

»Ro s i e « Today’s leading ladies make a show-stopping appearance in the »Rosie« model. The vintage-inspired cat eye frame strikes a modern note thanks to semitransparent, premium acetate in a lush blue colorway. Round and elegant shapes on the front conspire with tapered temples featuring geometric end tips for a complex, intriguing appearance.

craftsmanship, each frame is manufactured in more than 100 steps to meet the label’s high standards. Aside from avantgarde stylistics, the brand emphasizes comfort, functionality and durability – so these three frames not only look great but feel amazing.

»C a m i l a « Heading into oversized design territory, the »Camila« has a lot going on. What instantly catches the eye is the clash of two acetate tones; transparent crystal on the top edges together with vibrant tortoise on the lower front and temples. The hinges connect low

» Mia«

on the generous front

Last but not least, GIGI STUDIOS doubles down on vintage inspirations with a seductive frame in the most classic of colorways: black. The »Mia« steps into the spotlight as a squared vintage shape marked by a healthy dose of cat-eye inspiration. For that special premium aura, the sculpted acetate

section for ladies who appreciate comfortable and fashionable frames that invite a closer look.

front is supplemented by visible gold wire on the temples’ insides to once again prove that still waters run deep.

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» D a xer« Technically refined minimalism at its finest. The optical »Daxer« model reinterprets classic square frame shapes in a lightweight, geometric silhouette. The delicate wire frame is reduced to the max but nevertheless robust thanks

» We b b e r «

to the use of premium titanium. Dark temple overlays that end in golden

The »Webber« model is

temple tips join precision

what happens when a

hinges to take this

classic tortoise square

understated style

frame goes on a radical

into high-end

weight loss diet. Redu-

territory.

ced to a striking, but not overly bulky outline, the optical model exudes understated elegance. The frame owes its warm shine, like all of GÖTTI’s acetate models,

to a hand-polished finishing process. The dynamic shape is retro and elegant, while at the same time technically flawless down to the bold bridge with keyhole inspirations.

Götti

Classic Design Revisited Started more than 25 years ago by founder and namesake Sven Götti, award-winning Swiss designer brand GÖTTI continues to push the envelope

in eyewear design. For proof, look no further than these three styles: Uncompromisingly modern interpretations of timeless classics, each represents Swiss craftsmanship, intelligent pro-

»Ru n n « At first sight, the »Runn« model

duct design and technical innovation.

appears as a streamlined

Speaking of innovation: One of these

interpretation of a feminine panto

models is the result of a cutting-edge

shape. But there’s more than meets

manufacturing process developed by

the eye in this elegant, stone gray optical

GÖTTI entirely in-house. Continue rea-

ding to learn which one…

frame: The entire frame is produced 100% in Switzerland in an additive manufacturing process, thanks to GÖTTI’s in-house 3D-printing capabilities. Plus, each frame is manufactured individually, thereby minimizing waste and conserving resources.

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»T87012« Delicate titanium wire meets natural horn in the »T87012« optical model from the Ti-line Collection. The front section and temples in this classic square frame feature thin-rimmed horn, which practically floats on top of the wearer’s face thanks to the use of ultra-lightweight titanium. The resulting frame not only boasts a low eco footprint but is highly adaptable and allergy friendly.

Hoffmann Natural Eyewear A Perfect Harmony

»R803« No logos. No gimmicks. Just timeless elegance and premium mate-

A rimless frame does not equal a

rials. That’s the key to success for

lack of personality. The »R803«

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR

model from the R800 Collection

since 1978. And it’s more relevant

sets out to prove the opposite

today than ever: The ‘Masters of

as a masterful blend of different

Horn’ continue to create gorgeous

materials: The lightweight optical

frames out of wood, silk, alpaca

style features titanium components

hair, gold and titanium. Always

with palladium coating, combined

with the goal of emphasizing the

with handmade temples crafted

wearer’s natural beauty, like the

from a blend of wood and natural

trifecta of different frame materials

horn. Easy to fit with lenses thanks to HOFFMANN’s proprietary system

showcased in this article.

and definitely something larger than the sum of all parts.

»2242« With the optical »2242« model from the S-line Collection, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR goes back to its roots. Natural horn dazzles with

the full spectrum of grain patterns on the front and temples. A powerful reminder how HOFFMANN has built an international following for more than 40 years: By letting the natural beauty of horn take center stage, which this wearable panto frame does with timeless elegance. S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

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ic! berlin

The Silk Collection » C o ho «

Time to see what the cool kids are into. Since 1996,

Find your perfect summer companion in the »Coho«. The

latest eyewear styles as one of Germany’s most

slightly oversized, oval-shaped sunglass style is pictured

eminent indie brands. This season, the cosmopolitan

here in the Orchid Bronze Circle colorway. Like all

label takes inspiration from minimalist Scandinavian

models in the Silk Collection, the frame owes its

design. The result is the Silk Collection, the lightest

light weight to the use of stainless steel. It

and thinnest offering in brand history featuring a

also relies on enamel paints to achieve

second-generation, patented no-screw hinge system.

the vibrant color pops around the

Here’s a closer look at a fabulous trio of sunnies and

lens fittings. 100% designed

optical frames.

IC! BERLIN has been leading the charge with the

and manufactured in Berlin.

»Oros hi« Delicate frames can make a strong statement. The lightweight »Oroshi« masterfully combines thin-rimmed, round lenses with golden bridge and temple elements in a powerful package. The unisex frame, like

» S a rma « Understated minimalism at its best. The

the other styles in the Silk Collection, is

»Sarma« optical frame reduces a classic

named after a word for ‘wind’. In this case, in

oval-shape to the max, while color pops

Japanese.

around the lenses draw attention to the perfect curvatures. Pictured here in the Bouldergold Circle colorway, the »Sarma« flatters men and women who appreciate style and handmade quality.

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»J F 2 9 1 9 « At first sight, the playful implementation of partial rims catches the eye. But look more closely, and the »JF2919« reveals further details such as an ele-

»J F 1 4 9 8 «

gantly curved bridge crafted from premium

Elegant curvature with a natural finish: The

hinges and teardrop-shaped temple

»JF1498« model elevates the classic round

tips? They complete a style

shape in a luxe tortoise colorway. The

that discerning wearers are

keyhole bridge is a stylish riff on one

sure to appreciate.

titanium. And how about the refined

of the season’s biggest trends, while the robust hinges complete a timeless style that’s built to last.

J.F. Rey

Comfort Meets Style

»J F 2 9 3 2 «

Geographically speaking, J.F. REY

Look at that golden top bar! The

represents the best of the French

»JF2932« is an oversized feminine style

beaches and mountains. That’s

with strong cat eye inspirations. The

because each pair of frames is

black front section is carefully accented

dreamed up at the studio in sunny

by an upswept titanium rim with a

Marseille. In the next step, the glas-

golden finish. Tapered titanium

ses come to life under the expert

temples with tortoise coverings

guidance of skilled manufacturers in the mountainous Jura region. Since

complete this intricate statement piece.

1995, the brand started by Joëlle and Jean-François Rey has been setting trends – and winning awards – as this tasty trio of optical styles sets out to prove.

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»M 1 4 0 4 « Aviator frames are a dime a dozen these days, but very few reinterpret the classic formula like the »M14 04« from LUNOR. The material and design are inspired by aeronautics: Lightweight, durable and crafted with handmade precision in timeless, masculine style. The aviator frame with a sleek double bridge owes its light weight to premium titanium, processed manually in Japan. Aside from delicate outline details around the lens fittings, nose pads from pure titanium elevate this luxe frame.

» C l a ssic Oct agon« A LUNOR classic appears in a new light: The »Classic Octagon« boasts temples and Wbridge crafted from delicate stainless steel, paired with acetate-covered temples. The hand-made beauty from the private factory in the Black Forest is the perfect companion for connoisseurs of minimalist frames with clean form language. Available in four stunning colorways: Antique Gold, Antique Silver, Gold and Silver.

»A 6 250« Classic frame shape receiving surprising depth thanks to new, transparent colorways: The »A6 250« is a fixture among acetate frames and sparkles with new luster thanks to transparent versions like this gray beauty. The new transparent options create a fresh contrast on the wearer’s face thanks to their ice-cold look. Meanwhile proven LUNOR technologies like riveted hinges and clip-on temples complement the masculine appearance. Handmade in Germany and available in 14 color variations, this one gives stylish gentlemen a ton of options.

Lunor

A Passion for Eyewear Design With solid roots in the optical trade, LUNOR has been creating the future of eyewear design since 1991. Over the years, the brand created by eyewear aficionado Gernot Lindner has become the darling of international Hollywood stars. The key to success is a bold mixture of classic retro designs, interpreted with a reverence for eyewear history. For some current treats from the designer brand based in the Black Forest region, have a closer look at this tasty trio.

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»J ohannis t ha l « Johannisthal is a district of Berlin that is considered the cradle of German motorized aviation. But it was also a well-known filming location: Among other things, the classic movie Nosferatu was produced in an old hangar of the aircraft factory. The name continues to make history – now as the octagon ladies’ model »Johannisthal« made of titanium with embedded acetate rings.

» H a nsa v i e rte l « Berlin‘s famous Hansa Quarter is a prime example of 20th century modern architecture – this is where the city of tomorrow was to be built after the war. The noble claim and perfectionism can also be transferred to the ladies’ model »Hansaviertel« by MAKELLOS. The striking titanium frame comes with a double bridge.

» H a ra j uku«

Makellos

Japanese Soul & German Design The Potsdam-based eyewear brand MAKELLOS is inspired from different but similar directions: German design tradition meets Japanese perfectio-

Harajuku is a district in Tokyo. The crackling meeting place for young Japanese celebrates individualism, lightness and creative consumption. Fancy is normal. And thus the model »Harajuku« presents itself in an exciting mixture of Mazzucchelli acetate and titanium – with double bridge.

nism. The result is timeless elegance that radiates calm, reduction and clarity. German design meets the Japanese soul. Not a contradiction, but a source of inspiration. This is also shown by the models shown here.

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» M1 0 7 5 « Don’t be fooled by the understated looks. The »M1075« from the ME Pur Collection represents cutting-edge eyewear construction at its finest. Depicted here in the 562 Berry colorway, the TMi front section is treated with an innovative dye process, in which the color pigments penetrate permanently into the material for lasting, vibrant color effects. Weighing a mere 5.1 grams, the unisex style can be fitted with clip-on sunglasses for added functionality.

Markus T The Art of Titanium

German indie label MARKUS T keeps pushing the boundaries with lightweight and robust frames. The innovative brand has won over 40 design awards and counting, thanks to a constant quest to advance the state of the art. Milestones include a proprietary titanium coloring

» A1 0 31«

method as well as a patented polymer

Classic aviator frames travel to the future in the

named TMi, which the label fuses into

»A1031« model from the EASE Collection. Featherlight

handmade eyewear that enhances the

at only 4.2 grams thanks to delicate, screwless hinges with

wearer’s personal type without preten-

temples and bridge made from ultra-slim titanium. Depicted

sion. Every frame is custom-made in

here with a unique feature among rimless frames, namely titanium

Germany. Here’s a showcase of three

add-ons in a gold finish. Overall, wearers can customize this bold and

of-the-moment styles.

innovative style into 20,000 variations. What’s yours?

»L1034« Ever wonder why MARKUS T enjoys a reputation as Masters of Titanium? Just pick up the »L1034« model from the DOT Mono collection. The classic rectangular shape features a double bridge in a frame crafted from ultra-thin and high precision lasered titanium plates. Weighing a mere 5.1 grams, the optical frame implements tilted temples and the company’s proprietary screwless hinges in a rich variety of colorways. And each is a masterpiece of engineering. 172

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»M 2 0 5 0 « A frame that says premium through and through: The »M2050« sunglasses masterfully blend a tortoise front section with

Matsuda

interior titanium fittings and hinges. The stylish keyhole bridge anchors the beauti-

Japanese Craftsmanship

fully curved round frame. Built to stand the test of time, the »M2050« represents the

For eyewear brand MATSUDA, art and

commitment to excellence behind MATSUDA

fashion are sides of the same coin. Ever

eyewear.

since Mitsuhiro Matsuda established the label in Tokyo in 1967, MATSUDA has looked beyond the eyewear industry for inspiration. Major influences include a blend of architecture and fashion designs, and an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship. Every piece of luxury eyewear is crafted and finished by hand at the company workshop in the town of Sabae in up to 250 manufacturing steps. The results are as premium as it gets, like these three models.

» M3 1 0 1 « Definition of a perfect square shape. The »M3101« model pairs delicate engravings on temples and nose bridge with a lush golden finish. Black acetate temple coverings provide contrast in a lightweight frame that blurs the boundaries between eyewear and fine jewelry.

»M3 0 9 6 « Minimalism is the high art of subtracting superfluous details until only essential features remain. For a textbook example of this philosophy, look no further than the »M3096« model. Resting on a delicately engraved nose bridge, the titanium optical frame is a masterclass in essential design. And also a masterclass in premium style, true to the spirit of luxury at the heart of MATSUDA’s brand DNA. S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

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» Al fa« Elegant curvatures and high-tech production technologies come to life in the »Alfa« model from the MODO 3D Lab Collection. The new product range revolves around an additive process in which the frame front is constructed layerby-layer from a polyamide known as PA12. The matted surface finish in a variety of colorways lends the elegant panto frame a subtle aura, while ultra-light temples crafted from beta titanium provide a secure fit.

»4541« The »4541« model is the latest star in the MODO Paper-thin Acetate Collection. The stylish and elevated collection relies on blending ultra-light titanium frames with sculpted front sections crafted from acetate. The »4541« implements the formula in a slight oversized look with beveled brow line for the Fall/Winter 2020 line. Surprisingly lightweight

»7 0 4 0 « Until recently, the R1000+Titanium

and ultra-feminine, this stunner from

collection showcased delicate

MODO is available in a variety of

combinations of beta-titanium and

color variations.

Modo

Cosmopolitan Eyewear Design

proprietary R1000 polymer in subtle contours. For a bolder take on frame borders, here’s the »7040« model: The soft square frame combines a classic keyhole bridge

Ever since the year 1990, New York-based eyewear

with MODO’s signature screwless

label MODO has been making an impact with exclu-

hinges to create a classic look in

sive designs and a blend of form meets function. For

various flattering colorways.

fresh inspiration, the label looks to the street life of the world’s largest metropolitan cities and also operates offices in Stockholm and Milan. The zeitgeist of these three cities, paired with innovative materials and high-tech manufacturing techniques, provides the basis for cutting edge eyewear fashions. For proof, look no further than these three examples of eyewear design at the highest level of excellence.

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» Wa l ter & Wassily« As an homage to the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus movement, the »Walter & Wassily« sunglasses combine the best of both worlds. The 3D-printed lens rings reference the circle as one of the Bauhaus era’s defining geometric elements. Underneath, the titanium frame is inspired by bent steel tube furniture. For a masterful finish, the oversized frame is equipped with 100% UVA/UVB protection lenses featuring anti-reflective coating. Modern classic and 2019 Red Dot Award for Product Design winner.

» Vi rgi n i a 3 D « Don’t be fooled by the classic cat eye look! The »Virginia 3D« is a precision-engineered, 3D-printed designer product. Upon closer inspection, the ‘shutter look’ on the side of the lenses is a nod to the »Walter & Wassily« model. It’s more than just a fashion gimmick but actually adds more sun protection to the combination of 3D-printed, natural material and stainless steel. Gorgeous!

Neubau

Sustainability Meets Design

»M a u r i c e «

Fresh, creative, and sustainable. Since 2016,

Ending this selection on a high note, the

design-driven Austrian brand NEUBAU has

»Maurice« model from the Côte du Soleil

been turning heads with inspired eyewear designs. One look at the three eyecatchers on this page clearly explains why the Viennabased label has won accolades like the German Design Award. But there’s more: The

collection pushes the envelope on several levels. In terms of design, the oversized frame is a tribute to the legendary 1960s movie “La Piscine” (actor Maurice Ronet, to be precise). Meanwhile, the new, innovative frame

three sunglasses featured here all pack a

material called natural3D is 100% natural and

healthy dose of sustainability under the hood.

creates zero waste. Not to brag, but the Cóte

That’s because they are 3D-printed from a ma-

du Soleil Special Edition has already earned

terial called naturalPX extracted from castor oil plants for a 100% natural and 100% stylish finish.

the 2020 Red Dot Award and the IF Design Award 2020 for nailing the balance between high style and low environmental footprint.

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»To k yo 01:0 1 « Masculine style in a delicate frame construction inspired by the architecture of Japan’s city that never sleeps. The »Tokyo 01:01« model offers a lightweight interpretation of classic aviator frames. A double bridge constructed from premium titanium makes a strong impression, while nose pads and lightweight temples provide a secure fit.

Nirvan Javan Inspired by Tokyo

Named after a designer with Persian roots, upcoming Swiss eyewear brand NIRVAN JAVAN set out to bring visionary impulses into the optical business. The well-traveled designer reduces eyewear designs to the max, inspired by global culture and cosmopolitan flair. This is also the case in the recent Tokyo Collection: Released in Spring 2020, the handmade titanium frames from Japan feature acetate temple

» To k yo 03:03 «

tips and a unique finish that’s half brushed and

Feminine style meets

three standouts.

half shiny. Let’s take a closer look at these

geometric accents in the »Tokyo 03:03« model. The upturned brow line is a riff on vintage cat eye frames, but the finish is unmistakably modern and signature NIRVAN JAVAN style. Pictured

here in a lush golden colorway, this luxe frame rules night and day – and everything in between.

» Toky o 0 2 : 0 7 « Built to flatter both male and female wearers, the »Tokyo 02:07« reimagines a traditional rectangular frame with a minimalist aesthetic. Inspired by the metal frame structures abundant in Tokyo cityscapes, the optical frame blends traditional craftsmanship and urban lifestyle. And if you think these three are stunning, wait until you see the other models in the Tokyo Collection. Domo arigato!

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Reiz

A Feel for Finesse REIZ is going for a combination of retro style and striking futurism. The

brand from southern Germany proves time and again that this tension between old and new flows into successful designs. For example, with the Structure and Optitektur series, which are represented here. In both cases, the designs reveal exciting details and shapes. Not to mention the amazing quality the brand is known for.

» R a ute « The model »Raute col.17« is a feminine and extravagant interpretation of classic eyewear shapes. As an elegant blend of butterfly and cateye shapes, it shows what the Optitektur series is all about – the reinterpretation of traditional forms.

»Pa rabel« The model »Parabel« in col.232 is also from the Optitektur series. As a large, round unisex form, it represents an exciting geometry that is not so easy to classify. It is not classically round and thus a typical REIZ reinterpretation.

» Ma rmor« Model »Marmor« in col.234 is part of the Structure Crystal series, which focuses on the system of reduction. The beautiful large women’s glasses, which are also spectacular as sunglasses, appear large but not bulky. Rather, they come across as elegant, feminine and sporty at the same time.

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Robert La Roche

» Mule «

The M-Collection

»Mule« appears in shades of green on high-quality Zeiss

The M-Collection not only references

lenses that blend perfectly

the first letter of the models »Mabel«,

with the shiny gold frame.

»Mule« and »Manu«. The origin of

Like the whole collection,

these glasses also begins with »M«

these glasses are also hand-

– a nod to manufacturing in faraway

made and hand-painted – in

Japan. This is where the art of eye-

Japan, where else?

wear is at home – and well alive. Not only is the processing of 100% titanium particularly elegant, but also the subtle coloring. These are iconic models that are representative of the design of ROBERT LA ROCHE – easy for character heads to make a statement with them.

» M a nu« The »Manu« model also begins with »M« and represents classic Japanese craftsmanship. The dark blue color gradient has a hypnotic effect and is framed by a dark frame. Hand-painted, handmade – that is the art of eyewear by ROBERT LA ROCHE.

» Ma be l « The brown color gradient on the Zeiss lenses of the model »Mabel« is gently shimmering. Just like the siblings »Manu« and »Mule«, subtle elegance and fashion statement meet in a classic form. The glasses are handmade in Japan – and hand-painted there as well.

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S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

» N a po M« The »Napo M« in stone grey extends the Substance Collection with a gem of a model made from the beans of the wondertree. As a subtle nod to its South American roots, it’s named after a tributary of the Amazon – the 950km long Río Napo.

»Veloce« With the name »Veloce« – pictured in the color 92 –, our next model moves entirely within the Italian design world. The wooden frame made of smoked oak with maple is a tribute to the Alfa Romeo Veloce and belongs to the Evolved Collection, which includes an enormous variety of models and wood combinations.

Rolf Spectacles

Substance, Evolved & Excellence For 10 years the family business ROLF SPECTACLES has been going its own and innovative way. Just how consistent the brand is, can be seen in the way it deals with the topic of sustainability. The Substance collection is no exception and is all about plant power. The starting point is a powder extracted from the socalled wondertree. It’s not only sustainable, but also brings with it many functional properties. In addition,

» D a rt« The »Dart« in color 202 from silver oak represents the Excellence Collection and thus stands for lightness, grace and simple elegance. Particularly worthy of mention are the details executed with the highest precision – for instance two-tone finishes and engravings.

we are also showing models from the Excellence and Evolved collections.

S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

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»M undo« The classic »Mundo« sunglasses are inspired by topics such as motorcycling, cross-country and Californian counterculture. This classic wrap will have you ready to hit the road, but without sacrificing any details. These include a pronounced brow-line, a seven barrel hinge and four equally spaced rivet pins that provide a modern design language.

»Fuller « The »Fuller« is a timeless pair of glasses that perfectly emphasizes any style. The model made from Japanese acetate is an homage to classic eyewear heritage. Inspired by the clear lines of 1960s fashion, it consistently takes the squareshaped glasses to the next level. The keyhole bridge maximizes comfort and the timeless style suits both men and women.

» S pe nc e r«

Salt.

C1-20 Collection SALT. stands for timeless style and authentic designs.

The iconic brand from California works with a vast number of different form and color narratives. The sources of inspiration come from various areas such as music, film or architecture. Time and again, SALT. also focuses on Californian landscapes. This is also true for the C120 collection, which places themes such as erosion and reduction at the center of its aesthetics.

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S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

The »Spencer« is inspired by the classic P3 frames, which have been an integral part of the eyewear cosmos since the 1950s. The subtle keyhole bridge is comfortable and underlines the heritage style that both men and women can wear. The »Spencer« is so timeless that it can confidently be passed on to the next generation.

Silhouette

»SUN L i te ( 4 0 7 9 ) «

Made in Austria

Stylish, laid-back, and premium: The »SUN Lite (4079)« model is an impeccable round sunglasses style with carefully appointed details.

Headquartered in the Austrian

The keyhole bridge balances the acetate front

town of Linz, SILHOUETTE Eyewear

section while lightweight titanium temples secure

has been supplying a global au-

a comfortable fit. Like all SILHOUETTE models,

dience with optical and sunglass

handmade in Austria according to the highest

styles since 1964. Known for a

quality standards.

manufacturing philosophy focused on craftsmanship and manual processes, SILHOUETTE has revolutionized the world of eyewear with the world’s lightest glasses. Nevertheless, the fashion-forward designs make a heavy style statement, and we present three reasons why.

» TN G Cry sta l s ( 5 5 5 1 ) « The »TNG Crystals (5551)« optical frame is signature SILHOUETTE style at its finest. The rimless round frame rests on ultra-lightweight titanium elements, while contoured nose pads provide comfort. The overall finish achieves the kind of mastery that many labels strive for, but only a select few attain.

»B ols c hoi G ra c e ( 8 1 8 1 ) « This one’s a showstopper: The oversized »Bolschoi Grace (8181)« sunglasses provide an intricate interpretation of classic cat eye shapes. Upon closer inspection, the bold and gorgeously curved outlines seemingly float above the lenses. Golden temple tips and delicate hinges round out what can rightfully be called a beautiful SILHOUETTE.

S P E C T R // F A V R C O L L E C T I O N H I G H L I G H T S

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FLEYE » S onne « d r e ss MARCEL OSTERTAG c r o w n INSUBORDINATE AVANTGARDE DESIGN

FLEYE »H i l a r o « -

d r e ss MANUEL KIRCHNER c r o w n INSUBORDINATE AVANTGARDE DESIGN

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SUMO COLLECTION BY

Reconstructable, bespoke, 3D printed eyewear made in Munich

k l e n z e b a u m . c o m

Scan to try on HOFFMANN favrspecs.com

Horn â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sustainable Eyewear At Its Best Hoffmann Natural Eyewear photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

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German optical brand HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR was fully committed to sustainabili-

ty long before it became a buzzword. Not just by advancing the use of natural horn as a raw material, but also by maintaining the lowest possible carbon footprint. According to CEO and designer Jutta Kahlbetzer, a growing number of

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR

consumers is demanding sustainably manufac-

»2248«

When it comes to highly sustainable and entirely

tured products these days. A trend most likely accelerated by the coronavirus pandemic. natural products in the collection, Kahlbetzer points out the 100% horn models, which also feature horn temples. SPECTR discusses the current impact of Covid-19 and highlights of the new collection.

»2242«

End-to-end natural: In the 100% horn frames, even the temples are crafted from the premium natural material.

Horn: Every frame is one-of-a-kind.

S P E C T R // S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

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HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2314«

» 2315/49«

Hello Jutta, what has your personal experience of the coronavirus era been like? At first it seemed rather surreal. Until reports from friends and partners across the globe ‘catapulted’ us back to reality. Then

On that note, lots of people have used this mandatory time-out for contemplation and creative housecleaning. Did you have any positive takeaways from the crisis?

we were faced with an initial shock: What do we do? What’s

We are fortunate to be living surrounded by nature, which we

going to happen to our company, our employees, our customers,

have come to appreciate in these times especially. Spending

the entire planet? Is everyone going to be healthy? How dange-

time out in nature together with our family has been a tremen-

rous is this thing, really?

Which aspects of your business were impacted most by the lockdown?

dous help to recharge our energy to meet these new challenges.

What will be the lasting changes in our industry due to the crisis?

Fortunately, our sustainable products from our factory are appre-

Our industry will also become more mindful. More things will be

ciated in many regions across the globe. But in many countries,

questioned. Although the crisis has led to a stronger push into

the lockdown has had much more devastating effects compared

digital transformation – fortunately and finally in schools – our in-

to Germany. So things simply stood still in many parts of the

dustry is seeing a desire for closer personal interactions with ex-

world, which means that we can only make very limited delive-

pert opticians. In many cases, eyewear consultations have been

ries to more distant markets right now.

more intense, often with the result that consumers tend to choose

Do you see any upcoming large-scale trends in response to Covid-19? A crisis like this, although the origins and counteractions may be hard to grasp, tends to sharpen awareness and mindfulness. As a result, more and more people are asking questions like: Do I

200

changes accordingly?

higher-grade, and perhaps, even more sustainable glasses.

A commitment to sustainability has been your calling card as a horn eyewear specialist for quite some time now. In how far do you notice, also due to the crisis, a growing demand for products with lower environmental impact?

really need such and such product? Is less actually more, espe-

We actually experienced this positive trend for several years now

cially if it’s sustainable and high-quality? Could I use this situation

and it has indeed been intensified by the pandemic. Previously,

as a chance to reevaluate certain aspects of my life and make

it’s been a case of “a prophet has no honor in his own country,”

S P E C T R // S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

Horn unlocks maximum comfort of wear, especially in combination with HOFFMANN’s signature hinges.

Unique colorways, only possible in horn frames.

which may be exaggerating a bit. Nevertheless, we have recently

sible to replicate in acetate or other materials. The comfort of

noticed a much higher demand from customers in Germany and

wear is especially apparent in summer, since perspiration does

surrounding areas who otherwise tended to follow widely distri-

not cause any moisture build-up beneath the horn. Additionally,

buted fashion brands.

What qualifies horn as a sustainable material? It already starts with obtaining this entirely natural raw material. Horn from the Asian water buffalo can only be leveraged after

horn is a breathable natural material.

You’re doubling down on your usage of horn in your 100% horn frames, which also feature horn temples. What makes these models stand out from the rest?

the animal exceeds its natural lifespan. The older the water

The fact that every single point of contact with the skin consists

buffalo, the more beautiful the horn structure. The horn plates

of this beautiful natural material. Plus, the gorgeous colorways of

are cut on-site in India, so the process of value creation remains within the country. And it also reduces the volume of transported inventory significantly compared to hollow, untreated horns.

What happens to scrap materials left over from production? Residual material from manufacturing can be used as fertilizer in agriculture, in botanical nurseries and viniculture. We also use it to fertilize our own lettuce. The small horn tips, which cannot be leveraged into eyewear products, are cut into natural horn

the front can be continued across the temples.

In which other aspects are you pursuing sustainability as a company? In our production building we have spent many years working with renewable energies wherever possible. Our heating, for instance, comes from geothermal energy.

Despite the scenic landscape, what are the advantages of manufacturing in the heart of Germany’s Eifel region?

buttons in India. This ensures end-to-end usage of all material.

Here you can find people who have the patience to create so-

Additionally, water buffalo play an indispensable role as helpers

mething extraordinary. Many of them maintain hobbies in which

in rice fields, and culturally, they are highly respected creatures

they restore, create or beautify things. It’s much harder to find

in Hinduism and Buddhism.

What are some more advantages of horn? There are several. Horn is extremely lightweight, does not trigger

these types of people in the big city.

Thanks for having us, Jutta. www.hoffmann-eyewear.com

allergies and is wonderful to repair. The colors are unique, imposS P E C T R // S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

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LOOK â&#x20AC;&#x201C; MADE IN ITALIA L O O K E xtra

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S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

Two years of development come to fruition: The flexible nose bridge.

‘Made in Italy’ with Something Extra Look – Made in Italia p h ot os RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Elegance, high-end design, and a continuous drive for innovation: Since 1978, internationally renowned eyewear company LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA has been manufacturing and designing high-quality

Thanks for taking the time for the interview, Vittore. How do the two new collections fit into your company philosophy and values?

eyewear. True to the name, all production remains entirely ‘Made

Straight away, the name ‘Extra’ suggests something out of the

in Italy’ for three distinct labels: premium brand Look, luxury label

ordinary. The glasses incorporate a small revolution that meets

Materika, and upscale kids’ line Lookkino. Local production not only

the demands of various different consumers. The tilting bridge

allows the company headquartered in the Dolomite Mountains to

provides comfort and an exceptional fit. Extra is suitable for those

maintain its core values. In light of the coronavirus pandemic, the

looking for an extremely light-weight, versatile and ultra-practical

regional focus also enables LOOK to meet delivery timelines while

frame. And it expresses our brand’s commitment to innovation.

globalized supply chains are in turmoil.

Materika 70620 features an absolutely essential design and adds

What’s more, the ‘Made in Italia’ story expands into a new

slimline rim borders made from Italian acetate to one of our ‘ever-

chapter in 2020, despite the crisis, with the addition of the new Look

green’ ultra-light titanium models. As always, we seek and use

Extra line. The premium glasses feature a tilting titanium bridge that

only materials that can be traced, in other words carefully selected

adapts to the wearer’s features and eliminates the discomfort asso-

raw materials, to create products which are a concentration of our

ciated with conventional nose pads. Plus, the new Materika Titanium 70620 series introduces four minimalist shapes distinguished by ultra-thin rims with milled edges, crafted from the finest Japanese titanium. With so much to talk about, SPECTR checks in with Vittore

values and genuinely made in Italy.

On that note, with the effect of coronavirus on global supply chains, is it an advantage that you have maintained all manufacturing in Italy for over 40 years?

Tormen, Chief Executive Officer at LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA, for this

It’s an advantage without comparison! In a moment as complex

issue’s Label Update.

as today, having complete control over the production line allows S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

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LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA M a teri k a Tit anium

us to give continuity to the production processes and look to the

After listening closely to market demands, we were compelled to

guarantee a product that is a prime example of Made in Italy,

look into the design’s balance. From this, simplified shapes emer-

with no compromises. Glasses that have been designed, develo-

ged that are aimed at a wide public, for sure, but a public that is

ped and produced entirely in Italy, with the highest standards of

constantly seeking a reliable, refined product characterized by

safety and performance. We want to instill a sense of calm in our

absolute comfort.

clients and everyone who has chosen us.

From your clients’ perspective, what does the Look Extra collection bring to the table?

How does Materika preserve this high level of refinement? Materika is an integral part of LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA and has a different positioning – that is at the high-end. This product’s

Slim, elastic temples designed with a smart and urban use in

aim is to offer a real experience for the customer who wants an

mind, such as under a motorcycle or bicycle helmet. Or in the

independent, refined product marked by excellence, along with a

case of Look Extra small, also fitting under a ski mask or safety

high dose of design.

glasses.

Speaking of fit, what has been the response to the special tilting bridge designed to improve wearer comfort? And how long did the development process take?

We heard that the name also embodies these values quite literally, correct? Yes, Materika is an acronym that stands for: MAterial that is carefully selected and traceable. TEchnology employed to reach

The tilting bridge is something clients appreciate right from the

the highest standards. Also RIcerca, which is Italian for ‘research’,

moment they try the frame. Titanium also ensures the material’s

and our focus for over 40 years of continuous improvement. Last-

safety and biocompatibility. The development required about

ly, CApability, shortened as ‘KA’, is the human value that makes

twice the time it usually takes for a traditional product. But being

the difference when giving shape and life to exceptional glasses

innovative is part of our bigger vision and an important reason for

which can give the wearer a unique experience on a daily basis.

our presence on the market for more than 40 years.

You are also adding new models to the Materika Titanium collec204

tion this year. What frame shapes are you playing with?

future knowing we have made the most coherent choice. We can

S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

Thank you for sharing your insights in this interview. www.lookocchiali.it

www.gloryfy.com gloryfy unbreakable eyewear Unzerbrechliche Brillen „Made in Austria“ aus dem innovativen und patentierten Spezialkunststoff NBFX. Dank der neuen, patentierten INCLINOX Technologie kann der Bügel ohne lästiges Erwärmen regelrecht an den Kopf des Kunden „modelliert“ werden. Ob Anpassung der Inklination, Sitz hinter dem Ohr oder im Gesicht – alles im Handumdrehen adaptierbar!

Erhältlich im gut sortierten Optikfachhandel

Sport Meets Fashion New Eyewear Collection From Bogner p h ot os KATERYNA KUHL

Internationally known lifestyle brand BOGNER is a leading supplier of luxury sportswear and designer fashion. In our SPECTR interview, product manager Ayano Maki provides exclusive insights into how BOGNER’s brand DNA infuses current eyewear collections.

BOGNER »66007«

Hello Ayano, you are responsible for product design at BOGNER. What makes work exciting for you? As a person who has a passion for design, fashion and sports, working on a BOGNER collection is more than a welcome opportunity. There is a lot of possibility to unify different elements from various sources and

fashionable. This spirit makes BOGNER

create something new.

very much outstanding from others, in

What kinds of elements do you unify, exactly? Needless to say, BOGNER is well known

both the high fashion and sport performance segments.

has been a constant throughout the brand

Seems like bridging the gap between these segments is easier said than done, right?

history and collections from the beginning

It is not easy to mix these two, complete-

until now. This is the core of the brand, no

ly different worlds together without losing

matter in which product lines. BOGNER was

any aspects from each side. But BOGNER

the first brand in the industry to propose

has been doing it successfully for 88

that functional sports apparel can be very

years. That can be done only if the brand

in the luxury sports fashion industry since 1932. The brand DNA “Sport meets Fashion”

has a strong belief in its own value and is brave enough to break through common sense by taking a risk in order to develop themselves further. Therefore, they have been called a global pioneer in the fashion and sports industry for a long time.

Do these pioneering traits match your own personal identity? 206

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N P R E V I E W

I feel great sympathy and have respect for the passion and courage behind the brand and think I possess them as well. I am enthusiastic about creating something beautiful which makes daily life brighter. And it makes me happy to see and use it. To reach my set goals, I can be very brave or, if required, patient. And

our eyewear collection offers functionality

I am truly enjoying the design process.

as well as luxury on many levels including

Today we’re talking about current eyewear collections. To what extent does the design of glasses fit into the general brand DNA behind BOGNER? From the first launch of our collection, our design philosophy has been aligned

materials, proportions, extra functionality, and specifically developed colors, all fused into an eyewear design.

Looking at the models, it seems that the approach to visible brand insignia is rather dialed back.

with the BOGNER brand identity. The

Yes, BOGNER branding is applied very

fusion of sport and fashion is at the cen-

discreetly on our products. We believe that

ter of our design approach. Therefore,

design must speak first, not the brand logo.

What is the main design theme of the current BOGNER eyewear collection? Our focus for 2020 is clean and light. It is about frame shape, volume and proportion. Also about color and finishing. Very minimal, but not too simple. A rather smart and characteristic style.

Let’s take a closer look at your latest style, model »66007«. At first sight, it looks like you were inspired by ski goggles? Actually, we started development of our sunglasses »67600« first as shield lens sunglasses. It started in one of our regular design meetings at BOGNER. I sat next to a head designer and on our coffee break, we spoke briefly about what could be cool for next season, how we can create a strong theme by looking at many old photos from the BOGNER archive.

Did you find something that caught your interest? Indeed. We found a photo from the 1970s that we both thought was awesome, showing this elegant lady with a very sporty

“Very minimal, but not too simple. A rather smart and characteristic style.”

ski goggle. It perfectly explains how sport meets elegance. Then all we needed was four pieces of paper and two pens. And at the end of our break, we had a very rough

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N P R E V I E W

207

sketch of the »67600«. This served as the starting point for our development of season AW 2020 styles, for which the »67600« became a flagship model.

So the »66007« came next? Yes, the optical »66007« frame is the sister style of our »67600«. The optical frame

Every season, BOGNER shares with us

maintains the outer line of the goggle on

the new color palette of main colors used

the front, but much slimmer and carved

in the apparel collection. So these three

in more detail for optical usage. This is

new color hues feature prominently on

thanks to a new and modern engineered

their main garment collection line in this

material, featured in the season’s three

season as well as in the eyewear collec-

key colorways as well as in translucent,

tion, in different places such as lenses,

which made a style even lighter and

logos, temple tips and so on.

delicate.

How important is this synchronization between eyewear and apparel?

Aside from this new material, what is special about the »66007«?

Consistent and coordinated color usage

The very distinctive shape features the

creates the impression of an overall coll-

outer silhouette of a unisex aviator style.

ection. It harmonizes the seasonal look

Details include small BOGNER ‘B logos’

to the main design theme at BOGNER.

on the bridge area. The sporty look

And finally: What kind of wearer do you have in mind for these glasses?

is absolutely trendy and fashionable style. But not difficult to wear due to the

Modern and urban, someone seeking for

highly polished surface and subtle and

a perfect balance between fashion and

transparent colorways. The material is

functionality. I’m sure this style creates a

lightweight on both front and temples.

positive ‘Wow’ effect.

Since the »66007« is a nylor style and

Thanks for the interview, Ayano.

the color is monochromatic, the resulting look is very minimal and clean, matching

www.menrad.de/bogner

our design focus for this season.

The »66007« in Iceberg is pretty (and) cool.

What was the inspiration for the three colorways, Blossom, Hazel and Iceberg?

208

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N P R E V I E W

www.mexx-eyes.com

Unbreakable, Everywhere. gloryfy Launches Optical Collection p h ot os GLORYFY

Austrian label GLORYFY has become a fixture in the functional sports eyewear segment over the past decade. True to the brand slogan Unbreakable, the glasses have gained a solid following among prominent athletes across different actions sports. Then again, GLORYFY not only specializes in athletic eyewear, but also boasts an impressive Lifestyle and Optics Collection. The common denominator is an uncompromising focus on functionality, as company founder Christoph Egger details in our interview.

Hello Christoph, you have been a fixture in the sports segment for some time now. When did you launch your first eyeglasses?

provide a noticeable added value to our

explored plastics manufacturing. The

end consumers and thereby prove highly

first impulse for developing unbreakable eyeglasses was when my friend suffe-

well-established sports lifestyle brand at

red a sports accident, during which he

this point. And we’re developing really

severely injured his eye.

well in Germany and Switzerland.

your product. We know that our glasses

At my previous start-up company, I first

That was back in 2011. In Austria we’re a

How much do you feel at home in the eyewear business?

In the early days, what were some milestones of building the brand?

attractive to retailers!

How would you describe your company philosophy? We create products for eternity that provide their owners much pleasure for a long time, instead of serving the

Developing our unbreakable glasses and

disposable mentality of the ‘fast fashion’

The eyewear market is a highly compe-

transitioning into serial production was a

generation. We manufacture stylish high-

titive environment, ruled by enormous

major challenge! The material as well as

tech products Made in Austria with added

corporations. That’s killing the passion for

the manufacturing process were entirely

value that wearers experience directly,

innovation in the industry, making it hard

uncharted territory in the eyewear

not throwaway stuff ‘Made in Asia’. That’s

for young brands to gain a foothold. But

universe. And we were – and still are –

not only easy on the environment, but

honestly, I love the optics industry and

the only ones with such a technology,

also on our customers’ wallet.

couldn’t imagine doing anything else.

which meant we had to develop our own

This is why you’re still here.

solutions for emerging problems without

How significant is regional manufacturing for you?

Yes, thanks to our Unbreakable Technology

being able to draw on other people’s

We are highly driven by innovation

we offer a technical USP, which made it

insights.

and technology, so we just need a

possible to enter this market in the first

That sounds exhausting.

manufacturing site that’s accessible. I

place. Now we need to scale up this

Absolutely. But although it may sound

really appreciate the fact that I can get

position internationally!

trite, what always proves to be the key

there from my desk within two minutes.

to success is: Believing in your idea, and

Since mid-2019, we operate out of our

What provided the initial spark for your 210

eyewear brand?

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

Christoph Egger swears by his local manufacturing process in the Zillertal valley.

THE LIFESTYLE COLLECTION Functional and still casual: All models in the Lifestyle Collection are multitasking geniuses. Here’s a small selection.

3,500-square-foot headquarters with all

stress on the material, thereby achieving

departments under one roof, including

total clarity without distortions. In com-

manufacturing.

bination with other properties intrinsic to

Let’s get back to your brand DNA. What exactly makes GLORYFY unbreakable?

for our Contour Lens Technology.

What are some other technical features of your eyewear?

that makes them completely protected

Due to the specifically low weight of

against breakage and airbags. The risk

NBFX, our glasses are real lightweights

of suffering eye injuries in an accident

that offer the ultimate comfort of wear.

due to eyeglasses breaking is practi-

The latter is achieved by our proprietary

cally zero, because even under extreme

Inclinox Technology allowing an uncom-

impact, the frame doesn’t splinter or

plicated, cold state adjustment of the

otherwise shed components.

temples to the wearer’s anatomical head

Does that also apply to the lenses? Yes. What’s more, our lenses offer unparalleled clarity. This is the result of a

» G i 1 5 S t. P a u l i «

the material, this provides the foundation

tive and patented special plastic NBFX

Our frames are crafted from the innova-

GLORYFY

» G i 8 Pa nto «

shape.

Really entirely cold without heating the frame? How does that work?

very slow, almost pressure-free process

The combination of flexible NBFX plastic

during which the material is poured into

and a stabilizing metal insert supports

the molds. The slow pour ensures a high

the perfect cold fitting to the wearer’s

optical quality in the lenses. As oppo-

requirements in a matter of seconds. It

sed to polycarbonate or other injection

provides a secure fit during physical ac-

molding materials that are injected under

tivity and a loose fit while relaxing. We’re

high pressure, our process does not exert

currently offering Inclinox in our Lifestyle

» G i 8 Pa nto X i r i e d a i l y «

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

211

THE OPTICS COLLECTION The Optics Collection implements the functional advantages of the Lifestyle Collection. So everyday styles become Unbreakable.

GLORYFY »He ls inki«

ky diseases caused by smear infections.

our commitment to offer the best-possible

You already mentioned some collections outside the athletics line, what are they?

service in cooperation with our expert reareas on our retail map. And to fill these

Lifestyle and Optics Collections perfectly

gaps, we also offer online orders to our

supplement our offering, so people can cover every aspect of life with a perfectly equipped GLORYFY frame.

Do your optical models ensure the same high level of functionality as your sunglasses?

»Tokyo«

and fashion was always fluid. Over the past few years, our glasses reached au-

Lifestyle Collection. Unbreakable frames

diences well beyond the world of sports.

and lenses, utmost lens quality, self-

We also share many philosophical

adjustable temples and the antibacterial

similarities with legendary Berlin-based

coating.

streetwear brand iriedaily, namely DIY

frames lies in the safety angle. Of course

on the market for some time now and

the sports background plays a major

hopefully provides a foundation for an

personal injuries in Germany every day.

212

enduring partnership.

And looking ahead, how important are optical frames for your brand in the future?

Eyeglasses that shatter upon release

Extremely important! Our optical frames

of the airbag pose a tremendous risk of

have unlimited potential and, compared

injury, which GLORYFY frames help to

to sunglasses, really just starting to inclu-

lower significantly. Then there are many

de them in our collection. We have a lot

practical advantages. Leaving eyeglas-

in mind and also look forward to bringing

ses in the backpack, coat pocket or in

these glasses to the entire world with

the hands of curious children… Everyday

thousands of GLORYFY partner opticians.

life is a dangerous place for your favorite glasses!

ses will be permanently 99.9% free from

How important is traditional optical retail to you?

bacteria and viruses (not all virus strains).

In an era of digital transformation and

In order to achieve this, we’re adding an

booming online retail we still highly en-

ingredient to our coating that kills nearly

courage our customers to consult their lo-

all bacteria and a large variety of viruses.

cal optician when it comes to purchasing

This also offers significant advantages

a pair of GLORYFY Unbreakable glasses.

for opticians, with frames passing through

There is no better customer service than

hundreds of hands before selling. There-

at the optical store. No laptop, tablet or

by our coating adds extra safety for our

smartphone can replace the competent

opticians as well as their customers. Over-

and friendly advice of a trained expert

all, it makes an essential item such as

salesperson in a personal dialogue. We

eyewear a bit more hygienic, especially

offer a ‘try at the dealer’ service allowing

since it’s worn for 12 hours and more. It

customers to have three pairs of their

helps avoid conjunctivitis and other pes-

choice shipped to a shop. This reflects

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

We started this past summer to perfect a special edition that has been available

are more than 1,000 car accidents with

Starting in September, all of our eyeglas-

spirit, sustainability and innovative drive.

The main advantage of unbreakable

everyday life. Just an example: There

We also heard about an upcoming innovation in the works…

For us, the intersection of sports, music

technical properties as the sunnies in our

role here. But it’s also about safety in

and Optics Collections.

end consumers.

In the lifestyle segment you’re collaborating with streetwear label iriedaily. The Austrian mountainside meets Berlin’s urban flavors. How did that come about?

Yes, our optical frames offer the same

Why are these features also important in optical models?

»A m y«

tailers. Then again, there are some blank

Aside from the Sport Collection, our

Good luck and thanks for the interview. www.gloryfy.com

Proof of concept: Lifestyle and optical models in the urban realm.

p h o t o s RACHEL JIAM st y l i n g MIMI KRTINIC h a i r & m a ke - u p TAMARA SAUER m o d e l CARMEN a t MIRRRS MODELS

NEON Etnia Barcelona’s Ibiza Vol.2

ETNIA BARCELONA » I bi z a 0 1 S un« -

d r e ss BA&SH sl i d e s UGG b r a c e l e t LES GEORGETTES 214

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

At the turn of our current millennium, a certain spot in the Balearic Islands emerged as an epicenter of art, fashion and party-friendly lifestyle. Early on, independent eyewear label ETNIA BARCELONA was among the first to absorb this tremendous creative energy. In 2003, the island vibe manifested in the legendary IBIZA eyewear collection true to the label’s standout style. At a time when subtle, dark color palettes dominated eyewear design, ETNIA launched a range full of color pops and vibrant accents that have since become a calling card for the brand. As a special feature, the rich color hues of ETNIA’s frames really come to life under the blacklight ambiance of Ibiza’s nightclubs.

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

215

ETNIA BARCELONA Âť I bi z a 0 1 S unÂŤ -

j a c ke t MARCEL OSTERTAG t r o u se r s TASSEL TALES sa n d a l s SALT WATER

About 17 years have passed and ETNIA is doubling down with the IBIZA VOL.2 collection. As a tribute to the original, the line once again seeks to capture the spirit of the island and its festive ambiance in rich, energetic colorways. The models in the collection combine culture and tradition with an avantgarde approach, reflected in combinations such as classic Havana patterns applied onto layers of striking neon. The craftsmanship is also top-notch as always: While the frames are crafted from premium Mazzucchelli acetate, mineral lenses are provided by Barberini for that upscale finish. In an exclusive collection shoot, photographer Rachel Jiam showcases select models from the current collection. The outcome? Looks amazing! Not just on the beaches of Ibiza. www.etniabarcelona.com

216

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

ETNIA BARCELONA » I bi z a 0 4 « -

b l a z e r & tr o use r s BA&SH t o p JOSEPH sa n d a l s VAGABOND r i n g s & br a ce le t PILGRIM

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

217

ETNIA BARCELONA » I b i za 04 Su n « ves t NOISY MAY s wim suit SEAFOLLY

»Ibi z a 0 4 S un« dr e s s MARCEL OSTERTAG 218

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

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CCO - VILLA NINO - 247 avenue Bouloumié - BP20031 - 88801 VITTEL CEDEX - Tél. 03 29 08 85 85 - www.lunettes-cco.com

220

SPECTR

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“Lindberg – Celebrating Geometry” by Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter (pages 83 – 88)

Spectr Magazine Party’s over – Let’s get it on That’s a wrap for our 10th anniversary. We hope you enjoyed our 30th issue of SPECTR

LINDBERG

MAGAZINE and we’d like to continue to sup-

» Coc o«

port you when you search for the best and

most beautiful glasses. To make your journey

b i ki n i ROXY, so c ks FALKE, p u m p s MARINA RINALDI

with us as comfortable and easy as possible, we recommend a subscription – so the next print issue will be delivered to your mailbox automatically. SPECTR releases in January, May and September and every single issue stays true to our commitment to editorial quality. No matter if you want to read SPECTR in Berlin, Stockholm, New York or Tokyo – you can always get it delivered in the edition of your choice: English or German. So, don’t hesitate and sign up for a world of eyewear delivered right to your doorstep.

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