SPECTR Issue 31 by Monday Publishing GmbH

“Commitment” No. 31 // January 2021 // English // EUR 15,–

Cover photo: »9745«

LINDBERG »9752«, »9752« & »Rui«

LINDBERG »6587«

EYEWEAR DESIGN – INNOVATION – PRODUCTION gotti.ch

neomadeinitaly | titanium | eyewear

faceaface-paris.com

A TRIP BACK TO THE 1920S The A12 acetate line is inspired by the 1920s and radiates the luster of the roaring twenties. A total of four new frames have traveled through time for this 2021 reinterpretation. In addition to smooth panto frames, style-conscious vintage lovers are bound to find their new favorite glasses in the eye-catching octagon frame or Kronenpanto.

LONDON 04:04 (GMT)

#SEETHEWORLD

Frame R7115D, R7113A

lookocchiali.it

CONTENT

132

174

198

The Future Of Eyewear Purchase 42

“Let There Be Light” 62

Print Meets Digital 118

3D Tailored Eyewear 146

“Heirs Of Hades” 184

Retail Profile with Amon + Sebold

By Goodbyefuture

Eyewear Goes Crossmedia

Yuniku By Hoya

By Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter

Special Feature: GET YOUR OWN FAVR

“Priority Boarding” 75

“Singing Stones” 120

“Classy Relaxed” 150

The Art Of Transformation 194

By Andrea Kadler

By Narente

By Estelle Klawitter

Komono Launches SS21 Collection

FAVR Customized Microsite For Opticians

Lightness In Design And Material 86

Lasting Lightness 132

“Enemy Mine” 162

Modo Launches SS21 Styles

By William Ferchichi

Inspired By the Classics, Handmade for today 198

Swiss Love Of Detail 48

Eye To the STreet 91

The Side View 138

Masters Of Carbon 174

“Enemy Mine Vol.II” 204

Einstoffen Launches Collection With

Global Optician Market Report

Campaign Award:

Kerl Eyewear – The Future Is Light

By Rachel Jiam

Silhouette 2021 Highlights

New Features

Raen – Eyewear With A Californian Mindset

Ignasi Monreal x Etnia Barcelona

Noblesse Oblige 52

“The White Collar” 96

Built To Last A Lifetime 143

Cazal – The New Iconic 178

Lindberg 2021 Highlights

By Haniball Saliba & Armin Zogbaum

Salt. Adds Core Value And

From Rimless To Bold

Timeless Branding

S P E C T R // C O N T E N T

Masthead

Going Beyond Standards

EDITOR IN CHIEF

@jfreyofficial

STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

LAYOUT

CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com

EDITORIAL STAFF

HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com MEIKE PRECKEL [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com CARO ROSS [Cologne]

PROOFREADING

INSA MUTH [Dortmund] PETER ASHFORD [London] FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]

TRANSLATION

DIRK VOGEL [Chicago]

ONLINE EDITOR

FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] online@spectr-magazine.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS

DIANE BETTIES [Hamburg] STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] WILLIAM FERCHICHI [London] GOODBYEFUTURE [Munich] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] ANDREA KADLER [Hamburg] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich] RACHEL JIAM [Berlin] ESTELLE KLAWITTER [Dusseldorf] NARÈNTE // LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia] HANIBALL SALIBA [Berlin] CHRISTOPH SCHEMEL [Berlin] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf] BERNARD WERKMEISTER [Munich] ARMIN ZOGBAUM [Berlin]

PUBLISHER

MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln, Deutschland t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com

CEOS

STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK

F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de

CORRECTION

In SPECTR #30 on page 181 we accidentally wrote that the SILHOUETTE „SUN Lite 4079“ glasses are made of acetate. This is not correct. The frame is made of SPX® – Silhouette Polymer plus X. We apologize for this mistake.

ULRICH HARTMANN [ B erl in ] MAX BÖTTGER hai r & make-up STEFANIE MELLIN styli ng & all looks VONUWE styli ng assi stant ATIENO WOLTERS models LINUS a t PMA, CASPER at IZAIO GIAN a t LICHTKIND, ROBINA at M4MODELS, ELSA & JONA a t MIRRRS retouch ANNA DALEGE cov er photos

assi stant

LINDBERG »9746« “Noblesse Oblige” by Ulrich Hartmann (pages 52–60)

SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

COMMITMENT We l c o m e To I s s u e # 3 1

In the making of the 31st issue of SPECTR, we were committed to avoiding the ‘c-word’ at all cost. It’s all over the news anyhow. But we are ready to talk about what the year 2020 has done to people. That’s because the coronavirus crisis has not only caused dramatic disruptions in the world economy. It has also led to a change of thought in many areas – and we’re here to see the positives. For instance, restrictions on international travel have

and luxury items had a tough time. Meanwhile, products that are

led many people to discover

functional and sustainable experienced an unprecedented surge.

the beauty at their immedi-

It seems that more and more consumers are making conscious

ate doorstep. Going for na-

decisions on what they purchase; with a preference for minimalistic

ture walks instead of dan-

and local goods, made by companies that are thoughtful and have

cing the night away at clubs,

strong commitment.

investing

Our current issue bears witness to this paradigm shift. That’s why

experiences

instead of stuff, and redisco-

our cover shoot of gorgeous LINDBERG frames may resemble a large

vering what is really essen-

family trip out into the countryside. And as in several of this issue’s

tial. The past year also had

photo shoots, we are reframing our focus on what’s really essential:

a dramatic impact on consu-

the actual eyewear. Still, a couple of interesting questions remain open: Once the

mer behaviors: Status pieces

crisis is over, will humanity revert to the old ‘normal’ or does the new mindset stand a chance to prevail? And what lessons does the year 2020 present to the eyewear industry? How can brands and opticians find ways to emerge even stronger from these changes? One thing that’s already certain is that meta themes such as fairness, transparency, consolidation and lean practices will remain for all of us. Opticians are already forced to adapt to a changed reality, for example by scheduling appointments for customers under strict health guidelines, while discovering that this kind of advance notice also has its advantages. In order to get the word from people on the front lines, we interviewed many top opticians across the globe about how they are preparing for the future (Top Opticians around the World, pg. 91–95). We had an especially in-depth discussion with AMON + SEBOLD in Germany as the first store in our new segment, “Get Your Own FAVR” (pg. 42–46). What’s more, with the FAVR Customized Microsite, opticians have a simple tool in their arsenal to host product photos of their brands – including a Virtual Try-On function – on their website in a fully automated format. Because looking ahead, one big over-

LINDBERG

S P E C T R // E D I T O R I A L

arching topic that’s not going away remains digital transformation.

»9752«, »Rui« & »9752«

We actually believe that it’s the single biggest challenge that today’s

“Noblesse Oblige” by Ulrich Hartmann (pages 52–60)

this issue confirm. Enjoy the read.

independent opticians can’t afford to ignore, as the testimonials in – SD S P E C T R // E D I T O R I A L

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ph oto s AMON + SEBOLD

When it comes to premium opticians in Germany, AMON + SEBOLD in the town of Aschaffenburg is at the top of the list and well-known

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Amon + Sebold, Aschaffenburg

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THE FUTURE OF EYEWEAR PURCHASE

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AMON + SEBOLD Premium Store Profile

beyond the federal state of Bavaria. That’s because the independent optician places emphasis on its strong brand portfolio, fantastic personal service, and upscale store interior. These factors also help to compete against large-sized chain retailers. Talking to owner Karl Amon, he is optimistic that professional opticians will be able to prevail in the long run, especially when they can attract potential customers into their stores, where the full scope of their advantages can shine. The great task for the future will consist of making sure not to lose the customer early in the product inspiration journey online. Here’s our interview with a seasoned industry veteran looking into the future of independent optical stores with cautious optimism.

Customers are changing their shopping behaviors Hello Karl, the classic path to purchase in eyewear looks like this: A customer visits the optician of their choice and decides between available frame models. Does this concept even have a future?

parent because a piece from Chrome

But how often do these previous ideas directly manifest in sales? Or to put it differently, how much can your personalized advice affect purchase decisions?

Hearts simply has a higher value than a Ray-Ban or Dick Moby. That needs to be mentioned of course during the selection process of the frames. When it comes to lenses, you should give the customer

an extremely great role for us, because

a clear price range in advance while

I am convinced that our industry will con-

we want to make sure that the individual

explaining the differences in quality. For

tinue to have a future when opticians treat

customer with a unique personality is

instance, ‘bifocals will run you between

their customers as individuals. That’s the

matched or even enhanced by the new

300 to 1000 euro a pair.’ That way, the

key to finding the right eyeglasses via

frame. Eyeglasses are supposed to do

customer knows that there are also less

customer needs analysis (counseling on

something for people. With that said,

expensive choices available.

colors, shapes and styles).

customers trust us and our selection.

But compared to a few years ago, customers now enter the store with a much clearer idea of what they want.

What is your process?

Do customers attain a better understanding because of this openness?

11011

Over several rounds, we lay out frames

Yes, similar to how not everybody wants

for the customers that match their type.

to buy a tailor-made suit. Customers

Yes, customers are educated and now-

And in many cases, customers will find

who are looking to have a suit tailored

adays know rather well what works for

the right frame instantly on the first round

to them are also aware that it comes at

them and what doesn’t. Lots of custo-

of choices. Some customers are also

a higher price. With that said, it’s always

mers use the internet to stay updated on

willing to try their luck with a different

good to perform a fair analysis of indi-

all the available frames and the latest

style, other than they previously imagi-

vidual requirements. Because in some

trends. Many follow the motto: Search

ned. Almost always the feedback from

cases, lenses that have not been fully

Online, Purchase Offline.

their immediate surroundings regarding

customized to the customer can function

their new frames is so positive that it

just as well.

Does this level of preparation help in sales talks?

times walk into the store with a newspaper clipping of a cool pair of glasses. Now they’re showing us images from the internet. That often makes it much easier to understand where their imagination is headed. Of course we’re happy to

S P E C T R // S T O R E P R O F I L E & I N T E R V I E W

The prices of frames are rather trans-

counseling.

Individual counseling continues to play

Back in the day, customers would some-

include this kind of input in our expert

reinforces their trust in our expertise even more.

Speaking of trust, one common criticism among customers is that opticians are not transparent about the overall transaction of buying eyewear. The available collections are kept under wraps, and prices can double or triple during lens fitting.

Nevertheless, chain retailers offer cheaper prices. Is that a problem at all? Independent opticians have no reason to be scared of the package deals available at chain stores. Instead, they should emphasize their strengths, competencies and individual customer service. Customers need to be able to feel and expeS P E C T R // S T O R E P R O F I L E & I N T E R V I E W

BEING AN OPTICIAN – 10 QUESTIONS

The carefully curated brand portfolio should also reach customers digitally, in an age where online research is the rule.

Employees?   22

Sales floor?   100m2 for eyeglasses and 140m2 upstairs for contact lenses and additional examination rooms.

Strongest price segment for frames?  300 to 450 Euro

Share of regular customers?  78%

Favorite materials?   3D-printed, acetate and titanium

Most appreciative customers? Women. They are more receptive to fashion and treat themselves to a new pair of glasses more often.

excellence in the craft at Aalen University.

has its advantages as well.

rience the more individualized products,

universes via influencers to strengthen

the competent and fair counseling – all

their branding. It’s important to take the

of which are worth their price. Customers

same care of the profile of your own

end up paying more, but they also get

optical store. How is it perceived in

more. It’s up to opticians to clearly com-

public? What does the interior design of

I don’t believe so, because the chains

municate this full-service offering.

the store communicate? How is the brand

also create a certain frequency. It’s pretty

presentation? Thanks to social media, we

great to have all the Fielmanns, Apol-

can communicate and share these things

los, eyes and mores nearby. They also

much easier.

motivate us to further differentiate our

Will the share of online sales in our industry continue to increase in the future? And do you see a difference between sunglasses and optical glasses? I do think that the share of online sales will continue to grow. Nevertheless, the

store and hold our own competency in

Big Players and chains are expanding – not to worry

more fashionable and extraordinary models – especially from independent

Do you see opticians in big cities more threatened by chain stores than those out in the countryside?

Big Players and chains are gaining ground. What are the resulting challenges for independent opticians?

high regard.

How do you see the development around flagship stores, for instance by MYKITA? Does this stimulate the business or is it rather damaging for independent opticians?

labels – will rather be sold offline, also

The bigger, the better. Still large, round

due to the price range. With high value

and rather loud.

products such as eyeglasses, the custo-

We need to be able to stand out by

Aschaffenburg. But I could imagine that

Number of brands needed for a store to present customers with a solid selection?

mer still wants the feel and experience.

offering highly attractive product selec-

it would increase business or at least not

And human interactions will also always

tions. With employees who love what

cause any damage. As for me perso-

continue to play a role. People like to

they’re doing, and a store ambiance in

nally, I would rather go shopping in a

Importance of customized frames?

shop where they are treated as people.

which customers feel comfortable. And

well-stocked boutique, where my choices

Still negligible, but definitely nice to

Even the most professional video sales

by offering a level of service not avail-

aren’t limited.

consultation can’t achieve that.

able elsewhere, for instance preventative

have. We rely on You Mawo in this segment.

What characterizes a great optician?  They should love fashion just as much as optometry, and also have an

So you don’t see a risk of opticians degrading into mere craftsmen, only left with fitting lenses on frames that customers have ordered online?

health screenings from optometrists.

Where do you see the long term benefits of independent opticians and brands? Independent opticians will always be

understanding of craftsmanship. All

Well, it might happen to those who neg-

the ones who can respond more fle-

while keeping in mind how much their

lect design and fashion and spend too

xibly when it comes to purchasing from

little time on actual optometry.

independent brands to create a more

work affects the quality of life for custo-

We don’t have any flagship stores here in

Opticians need to accept the challenges of digital transformation The big advantage of large players and chains lies in their strong online presence. What can opticians do in order not to lose their potential customers to these competitors?

individualized portfolio, but also in the

We also need to connect digitally with

consist of wanting to surprise the custo-

What is the role of social media in the general communication mix?

services offered. The personal and often

our customers. Everything that makes

mer again and again.

Brands increasingly create their own

family-based structure of the business

people’s lives easier will ultimately

mers. Their daily motivation should

S P E C T R // S T O R E P R O F I L E & I N T E R V I E W

namesake of the Karl Amon Optometry Award for

Hot trends?

20-30

Karl Amon is a passionate optician and also the

S P E C T R // S T O R E P R O F I L E & I N T E R V I E W

Aside from their own website, AMON + SEBOLD also reach customers via their Premium Profile on FAVR.

become successful in a digital format, for

der to use them in our marketing. Brands

instance online calendars or purchase

should offer an easy-to-use platform, and

confirmation emails. To make it happen,

the ordering process from the suppliers

we need to rely on good software and

should be simple and interactive.

also on organizations such as FAVR who can support us with their size and service offering.

What kind of tasks related to digital transformation are giving you a particularly hard time? A good virtual try on process for eyeglasses, allowing us to showcase our collections, is still way too costly for individual opticians.

Should opticians present their full offering on their website and make it available for sale online?

In how far is it important that independent brands cultivate a strong online community of their own?

fashion appeal and to inspire. Selling on-

As a leading optician you also have a Premium Profile on the FAVR platform. and you also count among the very first opticians to participate in the ‘Get Your Own FAVR’ initiative. What attracted you to try the concept? I always thought that Virtual Try-On func-

It supports us when it comes to branding

tionality was an exciting prospect, but we

and storytelling around these indepen-

had not been able to realize it ourselves.

dent labels.

That’s why it’s great to have a strong

What kind of digital initiatives from brands are most likely to bring customers into your store?

partner by our side with FAVR, who can

Social media initiatives on Facebook and

so with labels that we sell, and which fit

Instagram support our marketing.

our profile. This allows the customer at

implement this feature perfectly and do

home to perfectly dive into the eyewear

FAVR Microsite – a digital alliance

I think it’s important to showcase eyeglasses in order to communicate

to shoots and process images.

Does your website showcase eyeglasses to inspire customers at home?

fashion universe.

With the new microsite functionality that allows for integrating your own website, FAVR is now offering a tool that will constantly update new products from your store’s brands and do so entirely automatically. Are you concerned to end up showing products that you may not carry in your store?

line is also not a mistake, but for our part,

We do present all our labels online. Our

we have decided against it. At the same

employees also wear frames by different

time, I don’t think it’s necessary to show

designers as brand ambassadors. The

all the latest frames in order to inspire

response from our customers has been

customers to make a purchase. For that

great and our team members are having

No, because it’s mostly about inspiring

we have our social media channel with

fun, because they are our fashion mo-

the customer and creating curiosity

daily posts on Instagram.

dels. It’s totally authentic and they stand

around our eyewear fashion. If their new

behind the labels they choose.

favorite eyeglasses happen to be out of

Brands and stores need to plan cooperative online initiatives What kind of digital support do you wish for from brands in your portfolio?

What are the obstacles when it comes to implementing product photography on your own website? It does require a certain effort whenever you add a new label to the selection.

For us it’s necessary to have the latest

Plus, fashion trends constantly change,

models available in digital format in or-

so you always need to conduct new pho-

stock, it’s rather easy to place a quick order.

How important is it for you, that the optician’s microsite prevents customers from accessing other opticians or brands? I find that makes sense and is necessary.

Thanks for the interview, Karl. amon-sebold.de

S P E C T R // S T O R E P R O F I L E & I N T E R V I E W

Swiss Love Of Detail Einstoffen Launches Collection With New Features

A Swiss love for detail lends these models a three-dimensional look.

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ EINSTOFFEN counts among the young and trendy eyewear labels, even though the prolific Swiss brand

has been designing eyeglasses for over eight years. For their latest collection, refinement and love for details set the tone. Time to take a journey through brand history with cofounder Philippe Rieder.

Yes, for the past few years we have grouped our collections into certain themes, which are then revisited in our optical products but also in soft goods and watches.

How has the importance of your eyeglasses collection evolved until today, looking at your entire product portfolio?

Scan to try on EINSTOFFEN FAVRSPECS.COM

Eyeglasses are our main product. We segment them into acetate,

EINSTOFFEN

titanium and wood eyeglasses and currently focus on expanding

»Buschpilot«

the first two categories with the goal of broadening our offering here. At the same time, soft goods and watches continue to play an important part in the identity of our brand as well as our core customer base and also serve to gauge new trends. Plus, they’re also just fun! One of the main motivations ever since our founding was to be able to do whatever we want.

Your brand name as well as your product naming are all in German. Is language a conscious part of your brand identity? Language yes, German somewhat. Since we hail from Switzerland, we’re first of all somewhat handicapped in that regard. And second, with Swiss German as our mother tongue, we’re used to

Hello Philippe, you guys founded the EINSTOFFEN label twelve years ago. What provided the original idea?

in all of our copywriting and branding. But it’s also funny that the

kok we discovered these cool T-shirts which we decided to sell in

name EINSTOFFEN continues to hold up since we’ve become a

Switzerland. Ramon and Raphael brought pragmatism and logi-

bit more international, because it has this intrinsic character. So

stics experience to the mix. Christian was the web designer and

why should something that’s successful for IKEA not work for us

I’ve always been blessed with a big mouth. Somewhere between

as well?

years later when we thought about launching our first eyeglasses, it was pretty much the same: We just went for it.

Is there a common theme between your watches, textiles and eyeglasses?

S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

Good point. Your visual identity is young and lifestyle oriented. In which genre do you want to position your brand and who are your products aimed at? We are basically aiming at people with a similar outlook. Those who take care of the environment, but still enjoy life and don’t

The four of us still design everything ourselves. Our signature

take themselves too seriously. That’s important to us. But honest-

style, the love for hidden details, the little stories and penchant

ly, we would rather not clearly define the typical EINSTOFFEN

for sustainable materials apply to all of our products.

person. We tried it at one point, but it felt like compartmentalizing.

Are there common themes between these different product categories? 48

yes, language as a whole is very important to us. That reflects

We were on a backpacking trip through Southeast Asia. In Bang-

naivete and megalomania, we decided to just give it a try. Four

»Rollbrettfahrer«

switching languages in everyday life whenever we need to. But

We prefer our customers to be individualistic. S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

You not only implement acetate and titanium in your eyeglasses, but also wood and stone. What is the common denominator between all these different materials?

kind of look. We love these types of experiments and this one took almost two years of tinkering.

What other types of features can we expect in your new models?

We put a great emphasis on origins. Our wood is FSC-certified,

Aside from micro engravings underneath the acetate, we have

our production is fair. Wood is where we command the most ex-

developed a new type of temple in which the implemented wood

perience and it’s a continuous theme in our products. At the same

forms a small letter ‘E’ in a subtle manner. You have to have

time, materials are not a common denominator for us, but rather

some kind of understatement as a Swiss brand, and it is also a

what we make from them. Our products are always rich in details:

little sleeker than a simple logo. We’ve also become a bit more

micro engravings or delicate wood inserts in unexpected places

adventurous in our color choices.

– sometimes it takes a second look, to realize the depth.

The love for detail is obvious in many of your glasses. And models like »Diamantschleifer« showcase the engravings prominently. What’s the story?

You also maintain a quite active online presence. Which role do independent opticians play for you? Independent opticians are clearly our backbone. During the first wave of coronavirus in spring, we also credited half of the online

Nice of you to mention the »Diamantschleifer«. It involves a new

sales proceeds from sunglasses to our local opticians. We’re all

technology for us. Here we have encased the metal layer with

in the same boat with these shops. And it may not appear this

the micro engravings within the acetate, which creates a novel

way, but online retail is honestly just a sideshow. It’s mostly limited to soft goods and watches. Optical frames from EINSTOFFEN are not available online, and that will never change.

What are you doing to support opticians on their digital journeys? We are noticing that our branding and online presence especially help reaching end customers, which in turn will head to their local optician to ask for EINSTOFFEN. That’s why we also consider FAVR a good idea. You need to address the end customer right where they are researching and comparing eyeglasses. This means reaching them online, even though you don’t sell your glasses there. einstoffen.ch

EINSTOFFEN »Diamantschleifer«

In the »Diamantschleifer« frame, layers of metal adorned with micro engravings are wrapped in transparent acetate.

S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

NOBLESSE OBLIGE LINDBERG »9745«

Lindberg 2021 Highlights

Scandinavian designer label LINDBERG main-

p ho to g r a p hy & a r t d ir e ctio n

ULRICH HARTMANN

[ B e r lin]

tains its momentum into 2021 with a number of great designs. The Danish brand is taking

v id e o

its new models on a journey through time

ASTRID GLEICHMANN

while playing with a number of different geo-

a ssista nt

metries: soft and round shapes reminiscent of the 1990s but also on-trend angular, po-

MAX BÖTTGER

lygonal outlines. The common denominator

ha ir & ma k e - up

behind all these releases? Timeless design

STEFANIE MELLIN

with that signature LINDBERG minimalism. One of the driving design criteria for

styling & a ll lo o k s

LINDBERG’s team was to achieve a balance

VONUWE

between the frame and the wearer’s facial

styling a ssista nt

features. For inspiration, the label looked into the realm of architecture, where a built struc-

ATIENO WOLTERS

ture aims to add beauty and functionality to

mo d e ls

a natural landscape. Much in the same way,

LINUS a t PMA CASPER a t IZAIO GIAN a t LICHTKIND ROBINA a t M4MODELS

eyeglasses are supposed to combine style, comfort and a sense of balance in order to enhance the natural beauty of their users. The new collection expands on the other 16 classic collections in the LINDBERG portfolio. As the brand moves into 2021, the main

ELSA & JONA a t MIRRRS

pillars of the brand DNA remain fully intact:

r e to uch

minimalist design, technical innovation, crafts-

ANNA DALEGE

manship and individual customization options. In this Collection Shoot for SPECTR, photo-

lo ca tio n

grapher Ulrich Hartmann and team showcase

WWW.EMMA-EMMELIE.DE

the new models in a natural ambiance. Playing with the narrative of achieving a symbiosis between landscape, architecture and beauty, the photo shoot adds gorgeous stylistics and a coherent selection of protagonists. You may notice tones of red as a dominant factor in the visual language, from the shoes all the way to hairstyles. What’s more, the premium eyewear designs from LINDBERG blended into the setting just so wonderfully, we couldn’t resist showcasing them on the cover again. lindberg.com

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

LINDBERG »9752«

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

»Rui«

LINDBERG »9752«

»9753«

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

Strip3p »2453«

»Esben«

»Arnold«

LINDBERG

»6587«

»9751«

LINDBERG »9750«

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

LINDBERG

»9848«

»9628«

»Arnold«

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

LINDBERG

»9849«

»9752«

LINDBERG »9746«

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

ALAIN MIKLI »A03123« k i mon o

ALEKSANDRA VIKTOR

NIRVAN JAVAN »London 03:04« d r e ss

PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE

L e t t h e r e b e l i g h t p ho to g r a p hy

GOODBYEFUTURE

[ Munich]

cr e a tiv e d ir e ctio n & styling

BERNARD WERKMEISTER ha ir & ma k e - up

LENA GEHRIG mo d e ls

ELLI &

LAURA LUNDGREEN a t LOUISA MODELS

SPECTR

J . F. R E Y

KOMONO

»JF29400030«

»JF29405045«

»Lee Tortoise«

l e a t h e r sh i r t

SPECTR

MINIMUM

co a t

SCHNEIDERS

d r e ss

GINA TRICOT

SPECTR

AD LIB

»AB3316«

»AB3278«

b l o u se & t r o use r s

SPECTR

FASSBENDER

d r e ss

MINIMUM

SPECTR

MODO »4433« kim ono

ALEKSANDRA VIKTOR

MODO »4543« to p

PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE

SPECTR

MODO »4544« turtleneck

VERONICA BEARD

BLACKFIN »Claire« d r e ss

GINA TRICOT

BLACKFIN »Hayden« d r e ss 70

SPECTR

GINA TRICOT SPECTR

STARCK EYES »SH5029« d res s

PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE

SPECTR

KOBERG »6042« d r e ss

SAMSØE SAMSØE

photography & production

ANDREA KADLER

P r i o r i t y B o a r d i n g

[Ham burg]

light assistant

GERTJE KÖNIG

hair & m ake-up

SABRINA WOLF at BIGOUDI AGENCY m odels

ISADORA OLIVEIRA at LOUISA MODELS FREDERIKE BUSCH at MGM MODELS

LUCA CASPARI at MODELWERK

special thanks to

WETZEL AUTOMOBILE / HAMBURG

SPECTR

CLEMENCE & MARGAUX »La Vitamine« ja ck e t & tr o use r s

CLEMENCE & MARGAUX »La Chanceuse« j a c ke t pants

SPECTR

LEVI’S ADIDAS

DIESEL

CLEMENCE & MARGAUX »L’Authentique« jacket & trousers shirt

MADS NORGAARD

DIESEL

SPECTR

SILHOUETTE

»SPX Illusion 1601«

»Lite Wave 5534«

ja c ket

LEVI’S

d res s & bag

SPECTR

ADIDAS NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

ja ck e t & tr o use r s

ESSENTIEL ANTWERP

shir t

SPECTR

EYEVAN »Espada-Sun-E« -

STETSON ADIDAS p ullo v e r GIVN ca p

ja ck e t

ØRGREEN »Femke« -

ADIDAS be l t bag ESSENTIEL ANTWERP t r ou s e r s ECOALF s we at s h i r t

ØRGREEN »Femke« j a c ke t & t r o u se r s pullover

SPECTR

RABENS SALONER

ECOALF

SPECTR

RODENSTOCK

ETNIA BARCELONA

»R 5338«

»Josett«

»Sofo«

TIGER OF SWEDEN SHAPING NEW TOMORROW

trenc hcoat

ja ck e t & tr o use r s

tro us er s

ho o d ie

SPECTR

ECOALF

DIESEL

ESSENTIEL ANTWERP LEVI’S WOMEN RED

jacket & shirt shorts

SPECTR

NEUBAU »Franz« c oat

MONCLER at APROPOS STORE OFF WHITE at APROPOS STORE

be l t bag

SPECTR

Hello Roland, for how long have you been designing SILHOUETTE eyewear?

The rimless frames of the Blend collection are equally fashionable

My journey has led me to SILHOUETTE in 2012. So I have had a

and wearable thanks to the

chance to design and develop eyeglasses for our brand together

modern lens shapes.

with my team for about eight years now.

On that note, how does your team approach work? My department starts with the first sketch and the search for new solutions. From investigating the technical implications to building prototypes and developing color concepts all the way to colla-

SILHOUETTE

borating with departments such as product management, techno-

BLEND COLLECTION

logy, manufacturing, and marketing with the goal of successfully

»5555 / KL«

bringing a product to market.

What are the characteristics of a great designer? For me the most important aspect is to remain curious and open towards ideas and technologies from different areas. What’s more, finding a good balance between tenacity and pragmatism in order to realize ideas as best as possible.

Will this approach automatically yield beautiful products? Is there an overall formula for great product design?

»5555 / KV«

The 10 Design Theses of Dieter Rams...

Dieter Rams is a German industrial designer largely responsible for the design

Good design ...

language of the Braun

… is innovative

brand. Even Apple products

… makes a product useful »5555 / KU«

constantly reference his influential design principles.

… is aesthetic … makes a product understandable... As a classically trained product designer, I am fascinated whenever form and function blend into one unit, thereby creating a significant added value for the user. Tactile sensation, functio-

Lightness in design and material Silhouette 2021 Highlights

nality, and user friendliness have to be well thought out and on point. Dieter Rams was definitely not wrong with his ten theses for great design.

But is there even room for design innovations when it comes to eyewear? After all, the product is clearly defined. We’re talking about a front section with two temples? Real boundary breaking innovations, which to me include our Titan Minimal Art, have been missing in the eyewear business for a long time. SILHOUETTE represents a strong innovative spirit

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Scan to try on SILHOUETTE FAVRSPECS.COM

For several decades, SILHOUETTE has been pushing lightweight de-

which also guides our daily work. Although many innovations are

signs crafted from high-quality materials. This approach continues in

not that obvious. But they do exist, of course. I would consider

the new 2021 collection, as the design philosophy Sensual Simplicity

our Accent Rings as a new chapter in the rimless eyeglasses

remains a guiding principle for the brand. Aside from a number of

segment. And we are noticing that this idea has already been

technical features, the label’s eyeglasses owe their signature light

embraced by colleagues in our industry. Lots of invisible inno-

weight to the materials. With strong expertise in titanium frames,

vations also take place in terms of materials and manufacturing

SILHOUETTE also relies on its signature frame material called SPX®.

In this issue’s Design Talk, designer Roland Keplinger provides an

S P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

processes.

Are there any signature SILHOUETTE designs?

insight into the Austrian label’s design philosophy and on the advan-

Design plays an important role and every single one of our glas-

tages of exclusive materials.

ses represents our interpretation of timeless design and aestheS P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

mechanical interfaces, which is why we developed a safe and durable snap connection between both materials. This also unlocks advantages in terms of manufacturing but also provides us with the chance for a better, purely segmented recycling process. An important aspect in terms of sustainability, which is becoming increasingly important for us. We are also spending a great deal of thought on the afterlife of our future eyewear products.

It’s in the nature of rimless frames to require relatively little material. How come you are still putting great emphasis on this aspect?

SILHOUETTE

SILHOUETTE represents lightness. Lightness means comfort of

»5534«

LITE WAVE COLLECTION

wear and that really requires a minimal amount of material and

»5532«

the right kind of ergonomics.

What are the technical standouts of the BLEND collection? On one hand the use of connective technologies as well as our widely known, maintenance-free Snap Hinge. Plus, a great mixture of highly wearable and modern lens shapes.

By comparison, the models in the Lite Wave strike a far louder note. What is the focus here?

...are also reflected in the design language of SILHOUETTE... ... is unobtrusive

»5533«

… is honest … has longevity

The Lite Wave collection dazzles

tics. This approach starts with design features such as our temple

with hingeless titanium frames.

tips and ends with the way we deal with edges and surfaces. In

… is thorough down to the last detail

the words of our founder Arnold Schmied Sr., you have to be able

… is environmentally friendly

to recognize a pair of SILHOUETTE eyewear blindfolded.

… is as little design as possible

How does this product design approach reflect in your brand DNA? Our brand DNA is to a large extent the direct result of our pro-

In this full rim collection crafted from titanium, we are introducing

duct characteristics: light weight, comfort of wear and quality

an innovative snap mechanism that is integrated in an entirely in-

from Austria are the guidelines. The fundamental focus is putting

visible manner. It is easy to open and opticians can fit the frames

the human individual at the center.

with lenses safely by using a simple tool. We’ve packaged this

Let’s talk about 2021: Is there a specific overall design philosophy? Are your eyeglasses trending in a specific direction? Going into 2021, our design philosophy Sensual Simplicity still

Titanium is really ‘our’ material. Ever since the invention of the

nical solutions and the typical tactile properties of SILHOUETTE

TMA, we have built the necessary expertise which has also

frames. Fluent lines, extremely light weight and optimal comfort

made our hinge-less frames possible in the first place. I love the

of wear are the results.

flexibility and the baseline tension that we can realize with this

For the Blend collection, the art of traditional Japanese wood joinery was an exciting departure point. And for the Lite Wave collection my colleague was inspired by integrated and invisible door hinges.

The BLEND collection includes the typical SILHOUETTE rimless frames. What makes the new models stand out? The starting point was the idea to blend titanium with SPX® in well-balanced proportions. The goal was to work exclusively with S P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

In how far does titanium represent a good match for SILHOUETTE in terms of materials and what do you like personally about it?

rings true. For us this means minimalistic designs, smart and tech-

What has inspired your most recent designs?

novel technology into a range of rather exclusive shapes.

material, especially at super-thin material widths.

Is the design language of your full-rim frames fundamentally different from your rimless designs? Are you serving different target groups with these collections? No, even our full-rim frames revolve around a reduction to essentials, lightness, and quality. This approach really addresses a broad target group.

You are also adding new models to the SPX® ILLUSION COLLECTION. what are the main talking points? S P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

The SPX® Illusion collection provides access into the world of full rim SILHOUETTE glasses. It includes models in classic, timeless

SILHOUETTE SPX® ILLUSION COLLECTION »2935«

shapes for every type of face at a great variety in color choices.

Who are you targeting with these frames?

Eye to the Street

They are created for individuals looking for extremely lightweight, robust glasses without chasing all the latest fashion trends.

What are the standout technical features of this collection? This collection is based on our unique SPX® material as well as our screwless Snap-Hinge. High comfort of wear and easy adjus-

Global Optician

tability are the main features of these models.

Market Report

Once again, your signature material SPX®, which you first introduced in 1983, plays the central role. What’s behind the acronym? The acronym stands for Silhouette Polymer plus X. The latter being the ‘secret ingredient’. That’s what it was like in the 1980s…

»1601«

Well, but perhaps you could explain the ‘X’ in a bit more detail? We developed this polymer in close cooperation with our plastic manufacturing partner. The ‘X’ is characteristic for this specific development process and lends the polymer material exactly the kind of features needed for the manufacturing of extremely delicate, lightweight, and at the same time highly stable frames “There are decades

and models.

where nothing happens,

In how far do plastic models fit into the material philosophy at SILHOUETTE?

and there are weeks where decades happen.”

Titanium is known for lightness and high tech. That’s why SPX® is also such a great fit for us as a polymer. It‘s really the equivalent of titanium among plastics.

Aside from light weight, what are the advantages of SPX®, especially in comparison to other plastics? Utmost stability of shapes at very slim diameters, ability to absorb constant stress and resistance to chemical influences.

»2936«

What kinds of options does the material unlock in terms of colorways? Over the years, our work has opened up a large variety of design

This famous quote from Lenin encapsulates

options from transparent to opaque and numerous dip-dyed

what many businesses have experienced

methods. Our color design is really free to explore creatively.

last year. The COVID-19 shockwaves have

And how about the creative potential in terms of shapes?

SPX® - Silhouette Polymer plus X: The equivalent of titanium in polymer frames.

transformed our economy. Entire industries

The biggest advantage in comparison to acetate, for instance,

were brought to a halt or forced to adapt to

lies with the possibility to strip diameters to the limit. The level of

a changing landscape. The optical industry

how far we can reduce becomes brilliantly apparent in collec-

wasn’t affected quite as badly as others.

tions like our Urban Lite line.

After all, we’re selling an essential product

Where’s the journey headed for SILHOUETTE in terms of designs and materials looking ahead?

that consumers want and need. While this will not change anytime soon, the rapid-fire

Together with our R&D department, we are constantly exploring

digitalization and newly adjusted consumer

new materials that fulfill our quality demands. At the moment we

behavior have created both challenges and

are thoroughly testing a highly promising material. This would

opportunities for opticians. With 2020 behind

also challenge us to change our way of thinking in terms of de-

us, we’ve reached out to optical stores

sign and manufacturing. It’s safe to say that the journey remains

around the globe to get their feedback on

exciting.

the general market outlook, their brand, and

And finally, what does your own pair of glasses consist of?

their product mix as well as their approach

Titanium in a hinge-less design.

Thank you very much. 90

S P E C T R // D E S I G N T A L K

to digital. silhouette.com

Bellevue, Hamburg S P E C T R // I N T E R V I E W S

Stavanger Optikk Location: Stavanger, Norway Optician: Siri Katrine Kristiansen

your marketing? Consumer behavior has changed in the recent past. We like to think that people don’t trust ads, they trust people. That’s why they need more people sharing them in trusted contexts. That’s why we always place a big importance on credibility when we make our content.

Can you tell us a little bit about your digital strategy? How important is this topic for you? We definitely believe that the future is digital and we think that customers more and more update themselves before

rience, customers will naturally migrate to us.

What is your absolute favorite label? That is tough, but my personal favorite is J.F. Rey. Most often, I recommend Reyk-

What do you do to attract new customers? We have spent a great deal of time gro-

encourage to share. This context is key

wing our YouTube channel and now get

to building a relationship with the user.

many inquiries that way. But mostly new

hands at the right marketing materials that we need to promote our wonderful

Good question. Because of our social

products.

media – mainly YouTube, Twitter, and

Oftentimes it’s a big challenge to get our

blog posts, many clients have already

How important are the so-called independent brands for you? Very important, we have been working exclusively with credible, independent brands since our business was founded.

What kind of support do you want from brands?

However, most are still looking for us to

We appreciate good service and fast de-

provide a great shopping experience

liveries. We also value good accessibility

in-store.

and pleasant communication. In the case

better.

How active are you on social media?

You’ve mentioned the mix of offline and online. To what extent do you think the eyewear business will shift sales to online?

Can any business thrive without it nowadays? I love my job so creating content for the company’s social media has

Of course, digital is the future. But there

become a large part of my life, although I

are limits to this. Not everything can live

don’t have any personal accounts.

digitally. Customer guidance and tactile

How important is digitalization for you?

emotions are essential to our business

Crucial, as it allows more people to learn

and it’s rather difficult to digitize the way

about us. I think the chain stores bene-

we shop for optical glasses and sunglasses. The future will likely be a mix.

Are you considering selling eyeglasses online in the future?

fitted more when they could dominate

What is the biggest threat to the Independent Eyewear cosmos? Companies like Warby Parker in the US

television and newspaper advertising.

of bottlenecks, it should also be possible It is very important to us that brands restock products because we sell a good product more than once.

What is your absolute favorite label? Is there such a thing?

Independent eyewear stores are mainly

level playing field. We spend far more on

characterized by personality. We think that a classic optician can respond more

the long term – absolutely yes! On the

become dominated with the right adver-

of marketing. Even our print marketing

to the customer, can make him or her

other side, we think just as we are hu-

tising to an uneducated public. I also

has QR codes to direct customers to our

very individual offers and convey perso-

mans, we need to touch things and feel

believe that 3D printing may be quite a

website.

nality.

with all our senses.

big disruptor, but it may well be the inde-

We think that it’s important to engage

outside the box, I want the same ability

good contacts with ophthalmologists.

for my business. I’d also like to add more

What do you do to keep your regular customers with you?

How important is it to you that the brands have the products constantly available? tant than the consistency. We’ve been

a snapshot and may still change if the

able to pre-sell popular, back-ordered

corona situation continues for a longer

frames like the Dita »Flight 006« or the

period.

Cazal »607« because the rep let us know

How important is DIGITALIZATION for you?

they were delayed and we used that in

In today’s situation, digital is of course

itself as a marketing tool. It’s much, much

very important. But it’s not so easy for

better to sell a hot frame with a waitlist

opticians to find the necessary support or

than to call a customer back after the

contemporary offers. Of course, we also

fact and tell them it’s an indeterminate

use social media to efficiently network

wait.

more extensively with customers.

What are some of your favorite labels? Today, it’s Rigards. Tomorrow, it might be Henau. My employees are in love with

Eyes on Fifth s Location: San Diego, USA OPTICIAN: Ruthie Love

Spexwax and Sabine Be.

How can independent stores set themselves apart from the chains? With knowledge, professionalism, and patient communication, boredom is a no-go.

How important is digitalization for you? We believe firmly that the best optics come from an in-person experience, both for fitting and to build confidence with our customers that their spectacles are truly designed to meet all their needs. We

How important are the so-called Independent Brands for you? At Eyes On Fifth, we’ve structured our whole business around independent

We want to put personality in the fore-

brands. It’s one of the things that sets us

a personal service, ensure the frames fit

ground and advise customers as individu-

apart. We aren’t a doctor’s office, we are

It isn’t hard. I believe the chains only

well, and provide lenses which are made

ally as possible. For example, we only

eyewear specialists who focus on the

want to keep them updated and also

succeeded because our industry became

accurately, then I will be all for it. We

do a few, but very selected mailings. We

finest eyewear and optics and leave the

give them a view of our services and

too naïve and complacent. Nowadays,

are currently preparing for that. I want to

always set ourselves very high personal

internal care to the ODs.

show them trends from the optical world.

they don’t excel at anything, so if we do

reach as many people as possible as I

goals.

a great job providing beautiful eyewear,

believe our advice can enrich their lives.

S P E C T R // I N T E R V I E W S

brands and styles.

Frankly, communication is more impor-

When the technology is there to provide

What do you do to win new customers?

our diverse, large selection of different

their investments. This can of course be

with customers on an ongoing basis. We

To what extent do you use online activities in

brands in the future. We’re known for

have become even more generous with

How can independent stores set themselves apart from the chains?

online advertising than on any other form

How can independent stores set themselves apart from the chains?

independent brands’ tendency to think

recommendations. We also maintain very

and Blake Kuwahara.

have shown how quickly our market can

pendent companies that benefit from this.

sing, or simply strive to achieve personal

We would go for Spectacles for Humans

If this is the way the market is going in

What does that approach mean for social media? How active are you?

result: to sell the product. Given the

to organize an urgently needed frame.

The online world puts us all on a more

Are you considering selling eyeglasses online in the future?

partnership. We both want the same

cinema advertising, shop window adverti-

receiving more intensive advice. They

converging in a way. Here’s where we the consumers an opportunity to know us

in addition to social media, we also do

are taking more time and are therefore

seen a product they like before they visit.

The Spectacle Factory Location: Preston, UK Optician: Robert Sands

When I bring in a brand, I consider it a

We have the impression that customers

customers find us via recommendations.

To what extent do customers still come to your store completely clueless or already have a concrete idea of what they want?

We use all the channels there are and,

Has the shopping behavior of your customers changed recently, maybe also due to Corona?

javik Eyes to clients.

And we work with ambassadors who we

What is the biggest challenge for you in the course of digitalization?

Alpenglühn Optik AG Kai Müller Location: Zürich, Switzerland Optician: Kai Müller

doing purchases. Offline and online are would like to present ourselves and give

excellent vision, and an enjoyable expe-

Speaking of brands, what kind of support do you want from them?

offer by-appointment FaceTime shopping experiences for our out-of-town customers but prefer an in-person interaction in our COVID-safe, clean store with mandatory masks and sanitation protocols.

To what extent do you use online activities in your marketing? Other than social media posting, not much. My employees are a little more inclined to online activities, but we don’t engage like some others.

S P E C T R // I N T E R V I E W S

What is the biggest challenge for you in the course of digitalization? The overwhelming nature of the whip-fast change we’ve all undergone this year.

that are characterized by individuality, distinctive design, remarkable materials, and often an extraordinary history.

What do you do to win new customers? We are very active in our social media channels. This shows that we are

Die Diekers Location: Oldenburg, Germany OPTICIAN: Stefan Dieker

modern, young, and innovative. We are very active in an association of 16 owner-managed stores in the Oldenburg city center. Joint events for sales promotion and cultural events are very helpful (cross marketing). We recommend ourselves and are very well networked in Oldenburg.

Has the purchasing behavior of your customers changed recently, maybe also due to Corona? Yes, we are already observing that. Purchase decisions are made faster and

How important are the so-called independent brands for you? Super important. The independent brands offer the possibility to show eyewear fashion that stands out from the classic eyewear fashion and is, therefore, more individual and unique.

Will you offer more brands in the future or do you prefer to concentrate on fewer brands? Our goal is to work with fewer brands. We are convinced that we will then be able to go deeper with each brand.

How important is it to you that the brands always have the products in stock?

customers are less price-sensitive. Our order values are rising.

Does social media play a big role for you? Definitely. With our Instagram and Facebook accounts, we regularly try to pick up current topics.

To what extent will business change to “online” in the future? Certain services can certainly be handled online. Appointments, order management, and delivery channels will certainly be digitalized soon. We are already selling online to a certain extent with our small online store.

and each day a millennial thinks of so-

design and high quality is the most

mething new. It’s exhausting to keep up

important kind of support I expect from

sometimes, but always rewarding.

our suppliers. Of course, including a great after sales helps a lot. We do like

I’m currently selling sunglasses online

problem in no time.

already. We do like to measure each

Will you offer more brands in the future or do you prefer to concentrate on fewer brands?

glasses online, but I’ll think of something eventually.

There is enough volatility in this world. tion doesn’t need to be big and broad.

What is your absolute favorite label? That differs from day to day, but I’m a big

informed about our market and our

customers will inform themselves online so why fight that when we can use it as a strength? We try to be very visible. Making photos

Of course, there is a favorite label. But

of customers, keeping them informed

I cannot name one brand alone. Ahlem,

about our window-dressing. But keep

Garrett Leight, Klenze and Baum, You-

in mind that social media is short term

mawo, and Celine are our favorites right

marketing and only can lure in potential

now.

customers.

What is the biggest challenge for you in the course of digitalization?

How can independent stores set themselves apart from the chains? We take pleasure in finding eyewear collections for our customers and ourselves S P E C T R // I N T E R V I E W S

What kind of support do you want from your brands?

To stay “on point” with social media is very hard. Things change very quickly

to a request the better.

Has the shopping behavior of your customers changed lately, maybe also due to Corona? We have slightly less frequency and even slightly higher average prices. The cautious are hesitant to come, the very they don’t want to follow the corona rules.

How important is digitalization for you?

There will be fewer and fewer customers who visit us or another optician without

does the trick here a lot. We have some

Most of our customers are much better

get spares, etc. The quicker the response

company as a whole.

To what extent will the business switch to “online” in the future?

pendent. Buying with customers in mind

Has the shopping behavior of your customers changed?

brand is ongoing. We need to be able to

tion is being paid to the well-being of the

online presence.

By not only acting but also being inde-

Coffee?”

ginning. Forming a relationship with the

being made and more and more atten-

a lot of potential through an even better

How can independent stores set themselves apart from the chains?

glasses. “We’ve got just the pair for you!

Just stocking the brand is only the be-

Less and less individual decisions are

be where we are today. But we still have

helpful staff behind it.

first having “looked around” digitally.

How important are the so-called independent brands for you?

We would like to inform these customers

They are our world, our business found-

will go online in the next few weeks, and

ation, our passion. Without them, BELLE-

attract them to our store.

even better with our new website, which

VUE would not exist.

Do you have a favorite label in your product range? Our team is so diverse that everyone has their favorite label. For many of

The OCULUS Location: Cape Town, South Africa Optician: Pieter Steyn

Luxottica.

What are you doing to keep your regular customers with you? Always try and be consistent in our service. We care about that. Follow up and follow through. Under-promise and over-deliver. Remember the small things. Be kind.

What do you do to attract new customers? Word of mouth.

Has the shopping behavior of your customers changed? Yes. It has been a tough year for everybody. People are more likely to just change lenses than to buy new frames. They tend to be more price-sensitive as well. The currency fluctuations also play a major role.

To what extent do customers still come to your store completely clueless or already have a concrete idea of what they want? We are lucky in that we don’t stock the usual brands. So, there’s naturally a bit

To what extent will business change to digital in the future?

glasses from Rolf are ingenious.

How important is a broad product range for the brands?

It’s happening already. The new technology makes it a lot easier to search

We buy regardless of how broad a range

for glasses than in the past. Also, virtual

is. Small brands with only one or two

try-on is great to try on different shapes.

lines usually have a particularly indepen-

What is the biggest threat to the Independent Eyewear cosmos?

for them or what’s new in-store.

tremely sustainable positioning and the

Ørgreen, Götti) we have almost all lines.

Anne et Valentin.

guided through which glasses will work

I personally believe the authentic and ex-

much. With the larger ones (Lindberg,

What is your absolute favorite label?

of both. But people always need to be

us, Ahlem in particular is way ahead.

dent identity, which we appreciate very

What kind of support do you want from your brands?

and independents) and the opticians.

calendar of events, we certainly wouldn’t

design but also there’s a friendly and

it will suit, and he/she will buy these

takeovers at the brands (licensed brands

Without our previous website and the

offered us stability in great quality and

How active are you on social media?

What is your absolute favorite label? Is there such a thing?

Bellevue Location: Hamburg, Germany Optician: Karin Stehr

fan of Reiz. Over the years they not only

glasses that we buy because we know

The concentration on both sides, i.e.

active ones sometimes worry us because

This also goes for collections. A collec-

20 years ago. We know that potential

when repairing them.

so I’m still figuring out how to sell optical

tionship with a small number of brands.

Since we are very customer-oriented, we Both when buying a pair of glasses and

pair of eyes before selling spectacles,

I do prefer to have a long-lasting rela-

products and our prices than, let’s say,

Blick Brillen Location: Rotterdam, Netherlands Optician: Mike Portier

Are you considering selling eyeglasses online in the future?

to be able to pick up the phone and fix a

The ability to deliver is very important. naturally want to offer a quick solution.

Providing us with outstanding eyewear

However, one-on-one selling will always

How important are the so-called Independent Brands for you?

remain.

Extremely important. They form the backbone of our business model. We only stock handmade independent brands. S P E C T R // I N T E R V I E W S

EINSTOFFEN The brand EINSTOFFEN is taking on a more philosophical approach for this winter. The emotional highs and lows that have defined much of 2020, find expression in a collection dedicated to the mountainous landscape of Switzerland. The Mountains & Valleys collection is both symbolic and literal. It was inspired by climbing and the raw nature of the Alps: bold shapes and combinations mixed with iconic

EINSTOFFEN

engravings and temple artwork. The Hinterland collection, which comes in January, is the biggest

»Botaniker«

collection the brand has released in 12 years. It

includes both tried and tested EINSTOFFEN quality

jacket

as well as unique design innovations such as fine

trousers

micro-engravings on acetate and lots of subtle

shirt

CARL GROSS Z.ZEGNA ETON

material executions.

»Pianistin«

»Botaniker«

T h e W h i t e C o l l a r p ho to g r a p hy

CHRISTOPH SCHEMEL »Imker«

[Berlin]

styling , se t d e sig n & creative direction

HANIBALL SALIBA p ho to a ssista nt

LIVIA KAPPLER ha ir & ma k e - up

DIRK NEUHÖFER mo d e ls

ZOE a t MIRRS MODELS YULEF a t SPIN MODELMANAGEMENT

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

FACE À FACE FACE À FACE is an eyewear design company based on mo-

dernity and creativity without compromising. This continues to hold true for 2021. The »Rotko 2« model was crafted in Japan and is made in full titanium. Like the famous painter, Mark Rothko, the frame plays with stripes of colors. It is composed of a colored bar which runs through a frame that is crafted from two aluminium circles. The acetate formed »Mikado 2« was crafted in France and resembles a graphic punctuation. Drawn in a single gesture with calligraphic energy, the imaginary stroke is visible and apparent. Further, refined gaps provide the eye with trenches of light and color which relate to Japanese motifs. »Bulle 2« is truly unique and looks as if it was created by the breath of a glassblower. The thin line of the circles unfolds delicately

FACE À FACE »Bulle 2« -

in an organic form. »Bocca Lemon 3« distinguishes itself with posi-tive energy and color. Tangy colors underline its mischievous spirit; the focus is on the eye.

TIGER OF SWEDEN trou sers MARC CAIN SPORT sh irt SOPHIE SCHNOOR blaz er

»Bocca Lemon 3«

»Mikado 2«

»Rotko 2«

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

FLEYE The name FLEYE stands for “Fine Looking Eye”, and that has been the guiding principle for more than 15 years. The designs follow a consistent aesthetic that is explicitly Scandinavian: classic and reductionist. The »Abel«, pictured here, is a timeless optical frame with a clean and minimalistic design, offering a contemporary and urban look. »Christoph« is a round optical frame with a bold yet clean shape, ideal for the confident design enthusiast. »Ann« shows effortless and mini-

FLEYE

malistic style while designed with intriguing details for a cool and current feel. »Gabriel« is a square optical

»Christoph«

frame in a bold, yet light design that is emphasized

with streamlined details.

shirt

SANDRO pants STRELLSON

»Gabriel«

»Ann« »Abel«

100

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

101

GÖTTI For the past 25 years, premium eyewear label GÖTTI has built a reputation for Swiss craftsmanship, intelligent product design and technical innovation. The brand uses multiple materials such as acetate or titanium, and it also manufactures glasses from additive production methods. But regardless of material, there’s one thing you can rely on: The very highest quality and a clear purist design. »Efried« and »Moon« are both acetate glasses from the GÖTTI Switzerland collection. The same holds true for

»Daley«, but this one is made of titanium. The »SF04 Folio« on the other hand, is a model from the GÖTTI Perspective collection.

GÖTTI »Efried« b la z e r

SANDRO

»SF04 Folio«

»Daley«

»Moon«

102

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

103

LUNOR Hailing from Germany’s Black Forest region, traditional eyewear brand LUNOR places classic retro designs at the heart of every product – reflective of a true passion for the craft. The acetate collection gets diverse reinforcement for the year 2021. In addition to delicate pastel shades, there are also expressive shapes such as the octagon shape. The acetate frames of the LUNOR brand, all of which are manufactured in Southern Germany, have one thing in common: timelessness and classic design.

LUNOR »A5 600« -

TIGER OF SWEDEN MEN PATRIZIA PEPE hairband HAIR STYLIST’S OWN shirt skirt

»A5 215«

»A12 504«

»A5 603«

104

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

105

MARKUS T MARKUS T’s Edition 21 was crea-

ted during a special time full of challenges. And yet there were many positive sides to it. Our stressful everyday life came to a screeching halt. In many aspects of life, this was a welcome change that renewed our sense of purpose and commitment to deeper values. But what does that mean for an eyewear brand like MARKUS T? Above all, consistency and concentration on the essentials. With these values in mind, the German brand created two new models,

MARKUS T

each of the multiple award-winning collections DOT Mono and EASE.

»EASE A1060«

In the DOT Mono, the focus is on

sophisticated hinge technology.

sh irt

JIL SANDER TIGER OF WEDEN boots COS

The success of the EASE collec-

trou sers

tion, on the other hand, confirms: Less can be so beautiful. Concentration on what really matters was key to the development of this rimless collection.

»EASE A1061« »DOT Mono L1050«

»DOT Mono L1051«

106

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

107

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR Sustainable eyewear may be trending right now, but HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR is not about short-lived trends. Quite the contrary: The brand has been crafting sustainable eyeglasses from natural materials since 1978. As you can imagine, it has an unmatched expertise in lens and frame production. The focus is on wood, horn, silk and other natural resources. The handmade frames made from full horn are extremely comfortable to wear, and the forms and colors highlight the natural material. People who like it even more unobtrusive, pick natural horn in combination with titanium.

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »325«

»T8701«

SANDRO e a r r ing s GOERGETTES d r e ss

»2308«

»T87012«

108

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

109

MASUNAGA With roots in the year 1905, Japanese brand MASUNAGA still leads the way in eyewear featuring hand-polished acetate, pure titanium, durable hinges and signature rivets. The models pictured here have various inspirations. »Bay Bridge« is named after the famous engineering feat in San Francisco we all know – with stunning technology hidden and out of sight. The »Gms-83« derives its aesthetics from simplicity and a calculated sense of balance. »Sedna«’s dynamic sculptural form exudes confidence. And »Daily News« references the NYC building on 42nd street, one of the city’s most historic Art Deco structures.

MASUNAGA »Bay Bridge« -

CARL GROSS SELECTED HOMME sh i rt STRELLSON b o o ts COS jacket

t r o use r s

»Sedna«

»Daily News«

»Gms-83«

110

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

111

RAEN RAEN is a lifestyle brand that focuses on high-

quality eyewear. The brand was launched in 2008 by the three founders Jeremy Heit, Justin Heit and Jordan Percy in Oceanside, California. The goal was to launch an eyewear brand that expresses the typical Southern California attitude. The brand has always remained true to its cultural background and roots in the surf scene. The resulting image has helped the brand to become better known. The fact that several celebrities are wearing RAEN eyewear is a testament to this progress: Olivia Wilde, Lucy Hale, James Harden or Jon Hamm are frequently

RAEN

spotted wearing RAEN frames. In essence, the

»Bowman«

brand is about high-quality but price-conscious frames made from first-class materials.

TIGER OF SWEDEN tr o use r s SELECTED HOMME shir t Z.ZEGNA ja ck e t

»Daisey«

»Finny« »Doheny«

112

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

113

METROPOLITAN The new frames from METROPOLITAN EYEWEAR are the unmistakable proof that clean design and an extraordinary look can go hand in hand. Yes, you can be classic and bold at the same time. They embody individuality through unique edges and forms. In terms of design, the focus is on clear, expressive geometry. This is a collection for urban people, and it stands for clear lines and purism.

METROPOLITAN

METROPOLITAN EYEWEAR is for people with their

»8070«

cheek on the pulse of time – and both feet in life.

MARC CAIN sh i r t SELECTED FEMME b o o t s ASH t r o u ser s

»6437«

»8070«

»6437«

114

S P E C T R / / FAV R C O L L E C T I O N S H O OT

115

ROBERT LA ROCHE The up-and-coming designer Christian Rumpf from Graz is a household name in the fashion world. With his creations from vintage fabrics, he creates his very own world – it looks like it sprung from a dream. It is opulent, imaginative, flowing and not easily pigeonholed. In 2019, he won the main jury prize for it at the 34th Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography and opened Berlin Fashion Week. Together with ROBERT LA ROCHE, he now presents an eyewear collaboration that includes six acetate models. Two of them are limited to only 100 pieces. All glasses come in four colors. All are handmade in Italy. The design of the glasses harkens back to the elite nerd look of the 50s and 60s, yet is expressive and clean. The laser cuts on the temple tips are among the small details that stick out. ROBERT LA ROCHE + Christian Rumpf: This is eyewear fashion for style-conscious free spirits.

ROBERT LA ROCHE »Sigmund« -

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE shirt JIL SANDER shoes TIGER OF SWEDEN suit

»Cruising«

»Midnight«

»Yearbook«

116

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117

GIGI STUDIOS

NICOLA WEIDEMANN, mo d e l ALEXANDRA a t MOST WANTED

»Linda«

Print Meets Digital Eyewear Goes Crossmedia You might notice a significant amount of QR-codes placed next to

& ma k e -up

glasses in this issue. They’re here to provide readers with a seamless transition between print and digital media. Simply activate the camera on your phone or tablet to see a specific pair of glasses on FAVR. Also

STEFAN DONGUS, h air

with the option of seeing how it suits your particular face in our Virtual Try-On. Why not give it a try right now?

pho to

www.favrspecs.com

118

SPECTR

S I N G I N G S T O N E S blazer

photography, art direction & casting

N A R È N T E // LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE styling

GIORGIA MELIS hair & m ake-up

DANIELA DESSÌ m odels

ALESSANDRO & KUBA at LA thanks to

MARIA SCIOLA, PINUCCIO SCIOLA FOUNDATION

NEUBAU

»Gabriel«

FRANCESCA COTTONE DALPAOS

[S ardinia]

shirt

RED SEPTEMBER

sh i r t

120

SPECTR

121

ØRGREEN

»Ryan«

sh i r t

DALPAOS

OFF WEAR TRAIANO MILANO b e lt CELINE

r a inco a t tr o use r s

122

SPECTR

OFF WEAR ART259DESIGN belt CELINE

raincoat trousers

SPECTR

123

GÖTTI

KOBERG

»Janco«

»6040«

TRAIANO MILANO GILBERTO CALZOLARI

b l a z e r & tr o use r s sh i r ts

124

SPECTR

shir t

DALPAO

SPECTR

125

BARTON PERREIRA

»Voltaire«

»Elrod«

jacket

126

SPECTR

RED SEPTEMBER

shir t

DAVII

SPECTR

127

MARC O’POLO

»503159«

»503158«

sh i r t

128

SPECTR

ART259DESIGN

DALPAOS scarf STUDIO VERTICE

shir t & trousers

SPECTR

129

LINDBERG »8906« sh irt

RED SEPTEMBER

LINDBERG »8906« shir t

RED SEPTEMBER

MONSIEUR BLANC 130

SPECTR

MODO »4103« -

CLOSED sh irt LEVI’S

s uit & blouse yello w

LASTING LIGHTNESS Modo Launches SS21 Styles

photography

DIANE BETTIES

[ Ha mb ur g ]

st y l i n g

TANJA BECKER h a i r & m a ke - u p

NATALIA VERMEER a t

MODO

CLOSE-UP AGENCY u si ng

»4609D«

CHANEL BEAUTY & ORIBE

models

NASTYA a t M4 MODELS Scan to try on MODO FAVRSPECS.COM 132

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

NAOMI a t KULT MODELS

BA&SH PARIS tur tle ne ck AMERICAN VINTAGE shir t HOUSE OF DAGMAR p a nts CLOSED b la z e r

ANTONIA a t A-MANAGEMENT S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

133

MODO

»4611E«

v e st

NILI LOTAN H&M CONSCIOUS

full look

CLOSED

b lo use

MODO »4433« -

ARKET t o p BA&SH t r o u se r s HOUSE OF DAGMAR blazer

134

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

In the new SS21 collection, MODO releases a great number of new

MODO also masterfully maintains the balance between a conti-

models, all true to the brand tagline, “Lasting Lightness since 1990”.

nuous brand DNA and progressive expansion of its collections – a

Aside from light weight in all frames, the brand with roots in the US,

delicate and demanding task. But as the new styles in the collection

Italy and Sweden also continues its timeless aesthetic and heritage

clearly demonstrate, it’s a continuous evolution of MODO design. The

as an independent eyewear brand.

new styles are marked by strong form language and tactile surfaces. S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

135

MODO »4611E« b lo use & suit

MODO »4609D« l e at h e r t op

BA&SH

136

MODO »4609D« l e a t h e r sh i r t

HOUSE OF DAGMAR

In many models, the designers play with dual coloring technology

in the Berlin studio with her team, true to MODO’s brand DNA: classic

for harmonious contrasts. Functional design remains a focus, for

but at the same time fresh and modern, expressive but still understa-

instance with the new screwless hinge design that hides the hinge

ted. The frames flatter our female models and lend an avant-garde

from side view. But overall, the new SS21 collection also charts a

aura, without ever crossing the line and becoming ‘too much’. And

new and fresher design direction – and we love it.

we want more!

In this Collection Shoot, Diane Betties showcases select models

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

CLOSED

modo.com

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

137

View

ETNIA BARCELONA has always had a strong

138

S P E C T R // C A M P A I G N A W A R D

ca mpa ign ima ges PAOLO ZERBINI

Ignasi Monreal x Etnia Barcelona

The

Side

affinity towards the arts and over the years released countless collaborations with international artists. In their latest initiative, the Catalonia-based brand is pushing the boundaries: With Ignasi Monreal, ETNIA is showcasing an exceptional artist and the entire storytelling around the collaboration once again features powerful visuals. With that said, the Campaign Award for this issue of SPECTR goes to the northern coast of Spain.

remarkable objects brimming with energy and tension rarely achieved in modern times Ignasi Monreal is regarded as the ‘enfant terrible’ of 21st century Spanish painting. His work with ETNIA BARCELONA continues a consistent track record of collaborations with the likes of Gucci, Bulgari and Vogue. In all these projects, Monreal’s creations always serve as vibrant eyecatchers. His unique style effortlessly blends classicism and contemporary influences, classic painting and digital art. These extraordinary compositions are complemented by elements selectively lifted from pop culture. The results are remarkable objects brimming with energy and tension, charged with a ferocity rarely achieved in modern times.

S P E C T R // C A M P A I G N A W A R D

139

For ETNIA BARCELONA, the artist residing in Rome has created a model rich in detail and available in three colorways. The product itself reflects ETNIA’s signature level of outstanding quality. Crafted from Mazzucchelli acetate, the frame is fitted with mineral lenses by Barberini. Interesting fact: the collaboration model is an homage to the film “Ways of Seeing” by John Berger, which is a play on peripheral vision. Interpreted through the

An homage to the film ‘Ways of Seeing’ by John Berger, which is a play on peripheral vision

140

S P E C T R // C A M P A I G N A W A R D

141

p hotos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Scan to try on SALT. FAVRSPECS.COM

S A LT. »Torres«

An equally humorous and romantic campaign

mind of Ignasi Monreal, this inspiration reflects in artificial eyes implemented into the design of the temples, thereby literally keeping an ‘eye’ on the entire surroundings at all times. For the marke-

»Wister«

ting campaign, which has also been produced in Rome, the artist also created two face masks from acetate. In distinct visual style, the equally humorous and romantic campaign was captured by photographer Paolo Zerbini. It conjures up memories of the Eternal City and takes observers on a sentimental journey. Bravo! etniabarcelona.com

B U I LT T O L A S T A LIFETIME Salt. Adds Core Values And Timeless Branding

142

S P E C T R // C A M P A I G N A W A R D

143

California lifestyle brand SALT. has always been dedicated to time-

acetate allows for ‘carving’ the nose pads out of the same substrate

less style and carefully appointed details. Every pair of glasses is

as the frame, eliminating the need for added components (which

100% Made in Japan from the finest materials and built to provide ut-

can break). The rivets and pins on SALT. glasses are also not just for

most optical quality and comfort. For instance, the use of mono-block

show but adjusting and repairing the frame over time.

S P E C T R // D E S I G N A P P R O A C H

Traditional Japanese craftsmanship ensures longevity of these stylish products.

“The Custom Core Wire is, like everything at SALT., a reminiscence of naturE’s effortless beauty.” Their long lifespan allows for SALT. frames to be passed on to future

S A LT. »Quinn«

»Coolidge«

generations.

Inside the transparent acetate temples, the Custom Core Wire allows for adjustability and stability in a color-coordinated finish.

that it is paired with. This provides a range of unique stylings, from

permanent method of branding their frames, quite literally: The SALT.

now our name is still proudly embossed on our frames,” said Trevor

are certainly refreshing in a disposable consumer society. Now SALT.

bold to discoverable,” said Trevor Dylan Kelley, Product Line Mana-

Heat Stamp is not glued or printed onto the frames but embossed

Dylan Kelley. With this in mind, it’s worth taking a close look at the

is doubling down on the long-term focus with the new C1 – 21 eye-

ger at SALT. Optics, adding: “Every detail of a SALT. frame has been

forever. “While it is a very subtle detail, the ethos behind SALT. is that

finer details of SALT. eyewear, knowing that they can be enjoyed for

wear collection. Standout details include Custom Core Wire inserts

designed to represent the identity and ethos of our brand and is then

we’re making something to last for a very long time. Our style, mate-

years to come.

in the temples, designed to change with each colorway. “The SALT.

hand finished by skilled craftsmen.”

rials, and eyewear are not disposable, and are meant to be passed

Long-lasting products that can be repaired during their lifetime

Core Wire was designed to change with each different acetate color 144

S P E C T R // D E S I G N A P P R O A C H

Operating from the same focus on longevity, SALT. also created a

saltoptics.com

down through generations. We want to make sure that decades from S P E C T R // D E S I G N A P P R O A C H

145

MEYER EYEWEAR X YUNIKU »Arrakis« & »Bellatrix«

UNITI »U12Y«

ØRGREEN X YUNIKU »Ø011«

YUNIKU »Y15«

3d-tailored eyewear Yuniku By Hoya photos YUNIKU

146

The Concept

AN EVOLVING EYEWEAR PLATFORM

sive, single vision and digital lens designs, for optical and sunglas-

When Hoya Vision Care, a key player in the global market for

YUNIKU uses a revolutionary vision-centric approach. It begins by

The successful partnership with Materialise, a leading provider of

ses solutions. Five different collections brought by design pioneers

ophthalmic lenses, launched YUNIKU in 2017, a revolutionary plat-

assessing the wearer’s visual needs and facial features using 3D

3D printing technology and services, and several collaborations with

are now part of the open platform. They include the in-house brands

form was born. It’s the world’s first 3D tailored eyewear designed

scanner technology. Advanced software calculates the ideal position

innovative eyewear brand designers are key elements to YUNIKU’s

YUNIKU base and UNITi, the Belgian Hoet Design Studio, Danish

entirely around the wearer’s vision. Customization, sustainability,

of the lenses in relation to the eyes, then designs the frame based

success. Since the beginning, the company has been constantly

eyewear brand Ørgreen, and most recently, Meyer Eyewear from

comfort and self-care are at the center of YUNIKU’s journey of pro-

on those unique parameters. 3D printing allows further tailoring of

evolving to enhance the experience during the optical consultation

Germany. Unique eyewear styles, a selection of design languages

gress. It’s a system that evolves with the customer’s needs.

the frame. The result is ultimate vision and comfort for the wearer.

process. They came up with an exclusive selection of frame designs,

and different product features make YUNIKU an ambassador of high-

colors and finishes, complemented by a choice of premium progres-

performance comfort.

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

147

CABRIO BY HOET X YUNIKU »DS9«

MEYER EYEWEAR X YUNIKU »Meyer Bellatrix«

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY – 70% LESS WASTE

HYGIENIC, CONTACT-FREE FITTINGS

With their tailored eyewear, YUNIKU generates up to 70% less waste

COVID-19 will probably have a lasting impact on people’s aware-

than traditional frame producers. In fact, this means that just the ma-

ness. As “safety” is also gaining importance in the purchase of eye-

terials actually required for the frames are needed. Powerful selec-

wear, contactless fitting systems have become indispensable. The

tive laser sintering creates each YUNIKU frame with over 600 layers

YUNIKU face scanner system empowers customers to virtually try on

– completely waste-free. YUNIKU appeals to the power to go green

frames. During the consultation process, the customer can explore

without having to compromise on design or fit. YUNIKU represents the

the frames virtually on the screen. With just a few clicks, he can ge-

future of eyewear, and the future is climate conscious.

nerate a complete eyewear solution entirely without human contact. yuniku.com

www.clemence-margaux.com Modèle présenté : CM342 LA VITAMINE

CCO - VILLA NINO - 247 avenue Bouloumié - BP20031 - 88801 VITTEL CEDEX - Tél. 03 29 08 85 85 - www.lunettes-cco.com 148

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

RODENSTOCK »R5339 Senator« c oat

CINQUE

C l a s S y R e l a x e d p ho to g r a p hy

ESTELLE KLAWITTER

[ D usse ld o r f ]

styling

CLAUDIA MELZER ha ir & ma k e - up

PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8388«

LAURA-ANN OLLAND at 21AGENCY mo d e l

ELIAS FROWEIN at

POLO RALPH LAUREN TOMMY HILFIGER BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

pullover shirt jeans

NO TOYS

150

SPECTR

151

LINDBERG »8907« -

BALDESSARINI DRESSLER sh i r t TOMMY HILFIGER t i e JOOP sh o e s PANTOFOLA D’ORO su i t

coat

LINDBERG »8907« -

DRESSLER shir t BEN SHERMAN p ullo v e r PROFUMO p a nts BOSS co a t

152

SPECTR

153

REIZ

»Jura«

»Basalt«

PROFUMO sh i r t SCOTCH & SODA j a c ke t CIRCOLO pullover

154

SPECTR

pullover

SSEINSE

SPECTR

155

LUNOR

»A13 553«

»A13 552«

COLOURS & SONS sh i r t LACOSTE t r o u se r s WINDSOR

pullover

156

SPECTR

ISABEL MARANT shir t VAN LAACK tr o use r s TIGER OF SWEDEN p ullo v e r

SPECTR

157

NIRVAN JAVAN »London 01:02 (GMT)« -

CINQUE COS BEN SHERMAN

b lo uso n v e st shir t

NIRVAN JAVAN »London 01:12 (GMT)« pullover

TOMMY HILFIGER BUGATTI

chinos 158

SPECTR

159

INVU »B2124D« -

ZARA BENETTON

co a t shir t

160

SPECTR

GIGI STUDIOS

»Sunset«

»Momo«

shirt

KING & TUCKFIELD SIF JACOBS

dress

e ar r i n g s

E N E M Y M I N E

CARMEN LLAGUNO BEHNO

bag

p ho to graphy

WILLIAM FERCHICHI

[London]

a ssistant

CHARLIE SMITH styling

JENNY HOLMES

UNTITLED ARTISTS, LONDON ha ir

ALEX JOTTINI

SAMANTHA CUSICK, LONDON using GHD & REDKEN ma k e - up

REBECCA ROJAS mo d e ls

EMMA BARLEY & FERNANDA MARQUES at STORM, LONDON

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SPECTR

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ETNIA BARCELONA »Chrysl« -

CARMEN LLAGUNO b a g BEHNO b l a z e r STYLIST’S OWN

d r ess

FACE À FACE

»Flash 2«

»Pixies 2«

ja ck e t & tr o use r s 164

SPECTR

KING & TUCKFIELD

d r e ss

KING & TUCKFIELD, earrings SIF JACOB, bag THE DECORIUM SPECTR

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S A LT.

»Taylor«

»Torres«

blazer e a r ring s

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SPECTR

THE DECK SIF JACOBS

blazer earrings

SANDRO SIF JACOBS

SPECTR

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J . F. R E Y »JF1497 5525« d r e ss

CARMEN LLAGUNO SIF JACOBS

n e c kl ace & e a r r ing s

J . F. R E Y »JF2932 2075« d r e ss 168

SPECTR

CARMEN LLAGUNO, e a r r ing s SIF JACOBS SPECTR

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I-SPAX »Charlene« -

RILEY STUDIO bl aze r THE DECK e ar r i n g s SIF JACOBS shirt

I-SPAX

MIGA STUDIO

»Letizia«

»MV 111«

d r e ss earrings

LE KILT SIF JACOBS

p ullo v e r tr o use r s ne ck la ce

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SPECTR

HOST VAR THE DECK SIF JACOBS

SPECTR

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EYEVAN »Puerto« -

CARMEN LLAGUNO SIF JACOBS scar f SESAM shoes SANTE + WADE

top & skir t

earrin g s

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SPECTR

MASTERS OF CARBON Kerl Eyewear –

KERL »CARB-018«

The Future Is “Light” photo s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

»CARB-022« Five years ago, KERL EYEWEAR entered the international eyewear stage. Ever since then, the specialists for carbon frames have designed plenty of premium and, most of all, ultralight eyeglasses. Company founders Dr. Jaromir Ufer and Dr. Johannes Dillinger collected their unique expertise with the premium material in the aerospace industry. They have successfully implemented this All KERL models are crafted from Flexarbon, making them as light weight as conventional carbon but much more flexible.

rich know-how in their eyewear designs. Plus, with the innovative Flexarbon material, KERL even introduced a unique version of carbon specifically engineered for the requirements of optical design. Aside from cooking up marvelous material creations, the

to tailor these characteristics exactly to a use case. That’s actu-

two self-proclaimed carbon ‘top chefs’ are also charting new terri-

ally the only way of realizing the full potential of carbon.

tory in terms of technical features and brand marketing. In search

Speaking of full potential, what are the special advantages when it comes to constructing carbon eyewear?

of the special recipe, we speak to co-founder Dr. Jaromir Ufer.

Carbon is the most high-performance lightweight building mate-

“FLE XARBON U N LOCKS T H E LIGHTEST CARB ON EYEWEAR AVAILABLE O N TH E MARKET.”

rial out there. As opposed to metals, the material itself is designed from scratch for a specific application. You may compare it to a top chef, who can create an extraordinary meal from the same ingredients that an amateur cook would attain mediocre results with. We see ourselves as carbon top chefs and have cooked up a special version of this material specifically for eyeglasses:

Hello Jaro, judging by the name, KERL hails from the German-speaking region, right?

Flexarbon.

What are the special properties of your creation?

composed of different types of fiber, that have been embedded in a high-performance material matrix at specific angles. The result is the most lightweight carbon eyewear available on the market.

Yes, KERL is a label entirely based in the DACH region. Our team

Johannes and I met while working at the German Aerospace

Flexarbon is much more flexible than conventional carbon, but

Additionally, we have developed a unique coloring process for

comes from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Center (DLR). As material sciences engineers in the aerospace

still extremely lightweight and solid. Staying with the metaphor

the surfaces in order to render the fibers in a variety of color-

segment, we worked together researching high-performance

of the top chef: A decorated cook does not purchase his meals

ways. Overall, our Flexarbon is marked by a distinct structure

The idea to launch KERL and our ultralight eyeglasses was

carbon structures. Since we both relied on wearing eyeglasses

as ready-made frozen foods. Rather, he sources the perfect

that is significantly different from conventional carbon patterns.

created by Johannes Dillinger and myself. Inspiration came from

and shared a passion for product design, we realized that carbon

ingredients from the best suppliers and uses all his skills and rich

Another unique feature is our modular temple system that allows

carbon as an ultralight material successfully implemented in

would provide the perfect raw material for eyeglasses. We took

experience in creating his dishes. It is very much the same with

for completely adjusting the frame to the anatomical shape of the

aerospace and racecars. This led to the idea of using carbon for

a good look around the market and realized that nobody had yet

Flexarbon – we purchase the best raw materials from aerospace

customer’s head.

eyewear frames. Over the years, we have continuously optimized

fully pursued this approach in our industry.

and Formula One racing in order to create the best eyewear

What provided the spark to launch the brand?

our process. In 2015 we met Markus Moser, an eyewear designer

174

Do you have a personal background that qualifies you specifically for working with carbon?

But there were already carbon eyeglasses on the market, right?

components ourselves. That’s the only way to attain these specific material properties and our level of quality.

With all these special processes involved, where do you manufacture your eyewear?

and distribution professional who was amazed by our prototypes

Yes, but all the existing models were crafted from a standard

and wanted to help bring them to market. For our branding and

type of carbon, which does not reflect all advantages of the ma-

marketing, we brought another specialist on board with Philipp

terial optimally. The key to success in working with this material

Yes, because Flexarbon is only 0.7mm thick and consists of up

Bernkastel-Kues amid vineyards on the Mosel River, our manufac-

Kanape – and that was the start of KERL.

consists of adapting it to a specific application. It is even possible

to eight distinct layers of carbon fibers. Each of these layers is

turer produces the final eyewear frames.

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

Does the material also unlock new possibilities in terms of design?

In Osterode we have established our own manufacturing infrastructure for the Flexarbon components. And in the town of

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

175

KERL »CARB-021«

»CARB-024«

»CARB-009«

Smart-Hinge: the newly developed

Thanks to the modular temple system,

hinge allows for assembly entirely wit-

KERL frames can be adjusted to the

hout tools.

individual wearer’s anatomy.

in a clearly defined, masculine direction. But we have also gradually introduced several unisex models into the collection, with a good response from our female audience. Due to our rather technical aesthetic, delicate and feminine shapes are not really our playing field. But any woman looking to make a clear statement with her eyewear will find our bold frame designs just right.

With the current collection you are introducing a number of new technical features. What are they? We have developed an entirely new hinge system: the SmartHinge. It is entirely compatible with our existing system and offers the same features, including adjustable inclination and screwless assembly. The new highlight feature is toolless assembly.

Which advantages does SMART-HINGE offer to opticians? That sounds like a nice setup. Does your company follow a specific philosophy? Yes, it is our vision to manufacture the world’s best eyeglasses.

This premium focus also comes at a price. Who do you envision as your typical customers?

Until now, assembling our temples required a small specialized tool. But the Smart-Hinge makes all kinds of tools superfluous. The system is simple and intuitive. Nowadays, nobody wants

symbiosis of online and offline business channels, we bridge the gap and support our partners with a brand experience that hasn’t been seen before.

What exactly is new about this experience and what are the advantages?

By implementing latest material technologies paired with aesthe-

Quality, high performance materials and ‘Made in Germany’ ma-

complicated instructions or special tools, and we are serving

tic designs, we are able to manufacture absolute premium pro-

nufacturing come at a price, indeed. But they also offer superior

these demands down to the last detail. In order to assemble and

ducts. Although our frames are rather ‘fat’ and bold, they range

performance to our customers: Lightness, comfort of wear as well

disassemble our frames, you only need a small pin, like a tooth-

among the absolute lightweights on the market, comparable to

as the most exclusive materials – that is something only KERL can

pick, for instance.

rimless frames. Our specific focus consists of a superior feeling

deliver. Our typical customer is a maker, someone who keeps

of comfort whilst wearing the frame, achieved by extremely

things moving. In many cases these are competitive individuals

lightweight materials and the perfect weight distribution. It is

who excel in their professional or private pursuits. For instance,

We wanted to create an even better online experience around

online configurator, which is accessible to the optical partner with

rather complicated to construct frames that are lightweight in the

successful managers or athletes.

KERL. And from a retail perspective, we wanted to connect our

extended features, we offer the highest level of customization –

online business with brick-and-mortar retail.

right down to personal engravings. Together, we thus achieve an

exact right spot, meaning the front section, and still achieving a

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manufacturing the world’s best eyeglasses.

products, opticians are often hesitant to fully commit to us. With a

Carbon is mostly interesting to male customers, right?

characteristic design. But our frames are engineered to the most

Most customers are men, but the share of female customers is

minuscule detail. It’s the only way of realizing our vision and

larger than we expected. Initially our frame designs were headed

S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

You have not only evolved your product offering, but also gave your overall concept a facelift recently, right?

What prompted you to take this step? Due to the rather high entry level price points of our high-tech

Our opticians become KERL partners. A perfect combination of optical expertise and online brand experience. Based on the catchment area of our partners, we address our target group directly via dedicated marketing and bring them to the partner store. Here, the end consumer can physically experience the KERL world and decide on his or her individual model. With an

absolute premium shopping experience that is second to none.

We look forward to it.

kerl-eyewear.com S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

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Scan to try on CAZAL FAVRSPECS.COM

One year ago, Katharina Schlager took over design direction at cazal. A

CAZAL

massive responsibility, but also a major motivation for the Austrian design

»8500«

expert. With the latest collection, cazal pays tribute to company founder and namesake Cari Zalloni. But it also makes the statement for self-confident

FILIPPA K JANE KØNIG

women that are at the center of the collection release. Here’s your chance

top nec k lace

to experience the collection’s new models in this SPECTR Collection Shoot directed by photographer Rachel Jiam and her team.

Hello Katharina, you have now served as Creative Director and CEO at CAZAL for a year. What was your experience so far? It has been challenging. The external circumstances that we have all been exposed to and continue to experience have also inevitably affected me. Because of the pandemic, practically everything had to be postponed. For this reason the results of our work will only be visible next year. For somebody like myself, who

CAZAL - THE NEW ICONIC F r o m R i m l e s s To B o l d

is used to moving things forward, the entire waiting game for great results is a real test of patience.

Have you had time to dive deeply into the brand DNA? For me it was very important to understand the brand and its heritage. Especially the myth and the fame surrounding CAZAL for decades now. For me the fog really lifted when I started engaging with Cari Zalloni as a person and receiving the opportunity to be a guest at his house. I had the tremendous pleasure of enjoying coffee in the garden with his daughter and granddaughter, for which

p h o t o gr a p hy

RACHEL JIAM a ssi sta nt

PAULA NIETNER st y l i n g

and understand his mindset. This was fundamental to my work with the brand.

CAZAL commands a unique fan base. With this in mind, being responsible for the design of new models is, to put it lightly, a challenge. How do you deal with the pressure? I see it less as a challenge, but rather as a creative motivation. For me, the main goal is primarily to create something new and individualistic that holds the

h a i r & ma k e - up

potential to win over new fans and target groups. The classics will always have

model

LAURA BUCHHOLZ at OM MANAGEMENT S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

visionary, who pursued his own path in a noncomformist and consistent way,

MIMI KRTINIĆ

TAMARA SAUER

178

I am very grateful. Through this experience I was able to better get to know the [ B e r lin]

their legitimacy and remain a fundamental component of our brand identity. But then again, it’s also time to create ‘new classics’ and continue to delight our fans with unique collections.

CAZAL’s fan base happens to be male, predominantly. But we also know that you have a penchant for rather feminine designs. Does that mean you have to limit yourself? S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

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CAZAL »217/3-3«

CAZAL »217/3-4«

S.OLIVER s ho es DR. MARTENS nec k lace ESSENTIEL ANTWERP s o c ks HAPPY SOCKS b la zer & skirt

FILIPPA K r ing s JANE KØNIG b la z e r

No just the opposite. I get to express myself, add something new, and engage in experiments.

What is the special story behind your BEING GREEK COLLECTION and what has the response been like so far? The special story might be that I have attempted to gently translate the CAZAL DNA into the here and now. Women’s sunglasses crafted from acetate with gold and platinum coated Dalloz lenses – a quality product with timeless design that women can pass on to their granddaughters. Heritage paired with longevity, that is my vision.

You are now finally launching your new collection. What kind of models does it involve? This Capsule Collection is an add-on, and meant to create a missing link to our Legends collection.

Again with a stronger focus on femininity. How come? Because the very beginnings of CAZAL were marked by a women’s collection, and I found that a nice symbol for my time at CAZAL. The collection is dedicated to strong, independent people who are iconic. Not all models are exclusively designed for a female target group, there are also unisex models not necessarily conceptualised for a specific gender. Plus, the idea is not to force the same style on women and men. It’s much rather about offering them a free choice between all the individual models.

Where did you draw inspiration for this new collection from? From timelessness, quality and creating something extraordinary. And Cari Zalloni, of course. Did you know that Cari Zalloni was born in Athens? And that the Old Greek language knows no tempus? This is what I reflected on while adapting these influences to the new collection. The goal was to create time-

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S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

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CAZAL

»217/3-1«

»8501«

MARINA HOERMANSEDER JANE KØNIG rings PILGRIM & JANE KØNIG b racelet PILGRIM tro users FILIPPA K b ustier

b lo use

necklace

S.OLIVER JOSEPH

b la z e r

less classics that can endure over generations and still elicit desire after many years.

The new collection not only features bold acetate frames but also delicate rimless eyeglasses. Rather unusual for CAZAL, right? Yes, there are five models crafted from acetate as well as a concept that has existed in a similar form in the 1980s. The idea is based on the vintage model »217«. We went ahead and newly interpreted the disc shapes. The concept gains extra impact by premium finishes with pearls and precious stones.

Where did the rimless concept originate? Because of the current challenges, I was forced to change direction. And since I love the CAZAL archives, where I constantly discover models that have been missing from the collection for more than 30 years, the model »217« was just a phenomenal find.

But how do you manage to make a rimless frame easily identifiable as a piece of CAZAL eyewear?

CAZAL »8503« -

ONLY ve st NOISY MAY sh o r t s ONLY j e we l r y PILGRIM b l o u se

This particular frame had already been part of the collection. Created by Cari Zalloni and just as relevant today, from a concept perspective, as back in the day. All I did was translate it into the 21st century. It is 100% in line with the CAZAL design philosophy.

Which model is your personal favorite in the new collection? Let me answer like a mother. All my children are unique and beautiful in their very own ways. But every single day, I like one a tiny bit better than the other.

Does the collection ship with some kind of special goodies? Not necessarily goodies, but gorgeous eyeglasses chains created in cooperation with Pearl Octopuss.y by Cathrine Boerter. cazal-eyewear.com // pearloctopussy.com

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S P E C T R // C O L L E C T I O N S H O O T

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MYKITA

»ML01«

»Studio 12.3«

jum ps uit

MARINA HOERMANSEDER

co a t

MARINA HOERMANSEDER

p ho to g r a p hy

SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTTER

H e i r s o f H a d e s

[Munich]

styling

KONSTANTINOS GKOUMPETIS ha ir & ma k e-up

SUZANA SANTALAB & DIELLZA JAHIRI using PAUL MITCHELL & FENTY BEAUTY mo d e ls

ELI HOFSTETTER at SEEDS

LAURA HINZ at MODELWERK MALCOLM a t LOUISA MODELS

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SPECTR

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GÖTTI

VINYLIZE X ACDC

»Cabana Flamingo«

»PWR UP«

sh i r t

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SPECTR

DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

SPECTR

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PERSOL »PO3262S« coat & pants

MARCEL OSTERTAG

ALAIN MIKLI »A05061« jump suit

188

SPECTR

MARCEL OSTERTAG

SPECTR

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VERONIKA WILDGRUBER

MASUNAGA

»Rocky«

»Botan«

sh i r t

S.OLIVER DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

pants

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SPECTR

DANNY REINKE KEVIN WILDEMANN b e lt OFF-WHITE co a t

jump suit

SPECTR

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BARTON PERREIRA

FACE À FACE

»Falana«

»Break 1«

DAWID TOMASZEWSKI MARINA HOERMANSEDER

j a c ke t & p a nts belt

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SPECTR

d r e ss

MARCEL OSTERTAG

SPECTR

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THE ART OF

TRANSFORMATION Hi Anton, it’s already been three years since we visited you at your Antwerp headquarters. What has changed since then? Well, we all got a little older (laughs), but the spirit is still here and we’re all looking forward to the new season.

Last time we met, KOMONO was still a rather young brand with revolutionary aspirations. And now? We still are! I would say that we grew up over the past few years, but we still have that same mindset and aspirations. Nothing’s changed at the bottom line: making luxury products accessible

KOMONO

and contemporary in terms of design with a kind of rebellious

»Romeo«

youth at heart. What has evolved is the quality in our manufactu-

»Mario«

ring and materials.

Like several other LABELS, YOU ALSO offer watches in your portfolio aside from glasses. Why are these products so often offered under one brand? For us it works. We’re an accessories brand and from the beginning our DNA contained vision and timepieces. We were one of the leaders in our market and have had great success, so of course others will follow.

How important is eyewear in your overall portfolio? Extremely important! Sunglasses are currently our biggest market

Komono Launches SS21 Collection

and the interest in our optical collections is growing rapidly.

On a mission to bring Belgian

We’re adapting to this growth by investing and experimenting in

design tradition into the entire

design and materials.

world: KOMONO founder Anton Janssens.

While covering several product categories, has your general brand philosophy survived over the last years? It certainly has, like I mentioned before, things did not change at the bottom line. More than ever we are focusing on what makes pho tos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

us unique: being innovative and offering design, experience and the highest quality at a great price.

Do you still see yourself as a label for a rather young target group? »Clark«

KOMONO is timeless. Our campaigns may focus on a younger

and more design-oriented target group, but we make eyewear for everyone who shares our philosophy and values. Our collections contain outgoing and on-trend styles, but also a lot of strong contemporary classics. I’m convinced to say that we have the perfect style for everyone. KOMONO counts among a new wave of really new brands that set

out a few years ago to shake up the eyewear business with fresh ideas. The label based in Antwerp, Belgium, is committed to offering

with renowned photographers and collaborate with like-minded brands. We try to listen to the market and the needs of the optical

We are very satisfied! It has been a huge success so far and we

stores, bringing a young, fresh and fashionable spirit into our

replete with a clear direction in terms of design and customer mes-

really appreciate all the feedback we receive from our opticians.

collections.

saging. Judging by the products and marketing communications,

Since we have a team of sales representatives who are always

the Belgian lifestyle label has already found its recognizable brand

on the go, we enjoy great personal contact with each optician.

ship stores, the main theme is metamorphosis. According to founder Anton Janssens, it’s all about moving things forward. S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

price point. Aside from products, we value storytelling, we work

opticians a product portfolio in a highly attractive price segment,

DNA. In the latest collection, also on display at KOMONO’s own flag-

194

Speaking of trendy styles, your roots are in the fashion and lifestyle segment, but a few years ago you decided to work closely with opticians. How satisfied are you with this cooperation?

amazing design and a real design language at a competitive

But opticians tend to rely on tried-and-tested products. How could you convince them to try KOMONO? What makes KOMONO unique in the optical world is that we offer

Aside from optical stores, you also sell glasses online yourself. How does that fit together? We strongly believe in selling the KOMONO Opticals collection only at opticians, because we take our customers’ eyes seriously. We do not work with big chains or big online players in our S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

195

key markets. Nor do we sell our optical glasses online. We only showcase the collection on our website so our audience can see

KOMONO

which styles they can find at their local optician.

»Richie«

You also sell at your own flagship stores. What makes them important to you? We have multiple KOMONO stores around the world, and recently opened a new flagship store in our hometown, Antwerp. These stores are extremely important for us to tell a bigger story, and to show the brand in all its facets to the general public. We want to offer the full KOMONO experience.

On that note, you remain based in Belgium, but you consider yourself as an international brand. Where does KOMONO work best? KOMONO is a worldwide brand, and that’s also what we pursue.

We aim to conquer all markets and our concept works all over the world, with great success in Europe, Asia and Latin America. But we will always be a Belgian brand, with a Belgian train of thought and a Belgian aesthetic. It’s in our DNA, we are perfectionists, and this is deeply rooted within us and in Belgian design in general.

Let’s get to the products. What is the signature trait of all your glasses?

»Montell«

We always experiment with new shapes and materials. That makes us unique and innovative in the eyewear world. At KOMONO we believe in inclusivity and our design approach describes that: there is no gender or category, only shapes that feel cool once they are worn.

Which materials do you prefer to use? We prefer to work with refined acetate and stainless steel, depending on the design. This season we’re also introducing eco-acetate, a completely recyclable and biodegradable natural material. We are strongly committed to using eco-friendly materials and packaging in our upcoming collections.

You are now launching the Spring-Summer 2021 collection. What inspired you to create this line? The vision for the Spring-Summer 2021 collection is metamorphosis, or the art of transformation. Befitting these turbulent times, we believe change represents progress and development. It causes us to improve and helps us to transform our current environment.

Is there a specific design language? And what is new compared to older collections? This season we renew our creative vision and explore radical new design propositions. We are leaving behind common notions of identity and are reimagining our future. Shapes are distorted and deformed, materials manipulated, and colors reconstructed. An air of illusion is created with opaque and translucent substances while reflector finishes create a sense of distortion. A second reading is often required with subtle detailing blurring the boundaries between the real and the imaginary.

That sounds artful. Thanks for the interview. komono.com

196

S P E C T R // L A B E L U P D A T E

»Judy«

Inspired by the Classics, H a n d m a d e f o r T o d ay

stills RAPHAEL SCHMITZ c am p aig n im ag e s RAEN

RAEN is an American eyewear label with deep roots in design and surf style. The brand with the enigmatic name achieves a fine balance between

Raen – Eyewear With A Californian Mindset

laid-back California style on one hand, and a clear focus on consistent product offerings based on a classic

RAEN (pronounced “rain”) is the embodiment

design aesthetic on the other. As more

of California lifestyle in the eyewear segment.

and more well-stocked opticians are

RAEN

discovering RAEN’s product portfolio,

»Finny«

it’s high time for a SPECTR interview with Co-founder and Design Director Jordan Percy. we are not. We are handmade. Califor-

»Wyatt«

nia. Surf. Independent. Fashion. We are relaxed, inspired, positive, adventurous, earnest and sophisticated with some edge. California is a giant place, it is extremely diverse geographically and culturally, so I think it is not possible to have just one “California” label and identity. But hopefully our vision comes through in the feeling of the brand, and its interpretation around the world.

Hi Jordan, what does the name ‘RAEN’ mean?

What did you think of the market offering at the time?

Our background before RAEN was brand building and working with a diverse

In the surf and lifestyle channel in Califor-

Although we are a brand rooted in

range of clients. When we had the idea

nia, the styles used to be very sporty. All

surf culture and an authentic, coastal

of creating a brand, we knew we wanted

those injected wrap frames that often la-

California lifestyle, we are not a sporty,

the name to be a word that was a bit

cked craftmanship and real quality… We

performance-oriented brand. This was a

cryptic. Ideally, one syllable, short and

wanted to bring change to the market.

deliberate decision that we made early

memorable, with a connection to water.

As an independent eyewear company,

on. We created a brand that would spe-

And RAEN is where we landed. Short,

RAEN continues to forge a new path

cialize in designing and building Modern

focused on the use of premium materials

Classics, pieces that are informed by

in order to create carefully crafted and

classic design, but are altogether con-

attainable, Modern Classics eyewear,

temporary, and will stand the test of time.

where the California spirit seeps into

This is our design ethos.

memorable, a bit of mystery.

»Saint Malo II«

Speaking of brand building, please tell us a little bit about the origins of RAEN and the people behind the brand.

every pair.

RAEN was started in 2009 by Justin

and Jeremy Heit and me. We brought together a combination of creative

»Daisey«

Does this spirit make RAEN a typical and original California product?

How important is an authentic presentation for you? Authenticity has been associated with

RAEN has now turned into a global

RAEN many times from people outside of

professional surfing. We had previously

eyewear brand, but the influence of what

the brand. We are a pure eyewear com-

done some eyewear design for clients,

is around us here at home is always

pany. We live the lifestyle we portray. We

and that inspired us to think about how

present in our collection. I feel there are

don’t do any other product categories

we would position our own brand.

clear aspects of what we are and what

and are not a license brand. Most impor-

experience from design and branding to

198

Does RAEN even cater to the whole ‘sports’ category?

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

199

nothing superfluous – uses quality hard-

tate sunglasses. Aesthetically, our most

ware that can stand the test of time, but

popular ‘essential’ styles manifest our

doesn’t break the bank. It’s a balancing

Modern Classic design ethos best. No-

customers are identifying and resonating

act, you see. We have arrived at a nice,

table examples of this are our »Remmy«,

with our style. We hope our imagery feels

sweet spot in terms of pricing. We’re not

»Wiley« and »Norie« styles. These frames

like we are portraying our friends and

in a race to make the cheapest product,

are lightweight, easy to wear, fit a broad

family, as often that is what it is.

tantly, our visual communication has a

The California brand relies on the warm

unique signature and aesthetic, and our

surface feel of acetate.

because we insist on quality and longe-

range of faces and tastes, and resonate

As the Design Director, do you have a personal hand in the visual representation of the brand?

vity, and fairness for our customers and

in markets around the world. I would say

suppliers.

that the typical characteristic of all our

Aside from design, photography is some-

How do you manage to maintain that fairness?

thing that I have always been passionate a lot of energy into personally at the moment. Leading the design process from

We started out as a sunglass brand, but

inception, through development to fini-

we have evolved into a full eyewear

shed goods, then getting to photograph

company, with our optical frames taking

it and capturing these moments with our

equal collection space and share of

friends and family to be shared with the

sales. We will be building on the optical

world is just about as authentic as it gets.

frame collection in the coming seasons

Do you have a personal background with eyeglasses? Oddly enough, no! I sort of wandered into it. By that I mean that I have always been fond of eyewear and have collected it for a long time. But I have never received any technical training in eyewear design or industrial design processes for that matter. I am a graphic designer by training, and believe that a trained eye, and more importantly, a trained creative mind, can apply the same processes and

RAEN, never with a compromise on style.

much potential for growth in the eyewear

design interesting! It’s a game of milli-

channel, so this really is our focus. We

meters. You need to create a range of

will be bringing to market higher end

products that, for the most part, are one

goods, expanding our offering with titani-

size and need to satisfy a vast range

um frames, and more.

of face shapes, sizes, and so on. So, it’s a big geometry puzzle, and beyond the physical design, the bigger picture challenge is architecting and managing a product lineup that compliments and does not compete with itself to satisfy that wide range of faces.

to it, whereas injected plastics and metals tend to feel ‘cold’. So, from the beginning, we wanted to really build a

How does that fit into your overall value proposition?

RAEN »Vine«

I think the important thing for us at RAEN is to understand that we are not limited by a certain price or price level, but to always offer the consumer more than they

product or category, so long as enough

is true throughout our collection, whether

in product quality. Our offering always

time and attention are dedicated to the

it be our entry point or top-of-the-line

gets compared to much more expensive

pursuit.

frames.

brands, and that is exactly where we

For which target group do you design your brand?

finding a balance in selecting quality

When we decided to launch an eyewear

raw materials, manufacturers that are

brand, I began absorbing everything I

California sunshine in their lives. Our core

exceptionally good at what they do, and

could to understand how to make the

customers tend to be young professio-

working within the scope of options we

best handmade eyewear for our market.

nals, creatives, and students. All people

have to support our price targets. It’s not

This is achieved through studying the

who appreciate the classics, but aren’t

easy. It’s quite easy to make beautiful

design of successful products on the

looking for ‘vintage’, so they are seeking

product where budget is not a barrier, no

front end, and just as importantly, under-

out the Modern Classic aesthetic and de-

holds barred. It’s a vastly different goal to

standing the artisanship and production

sign philosophy that we champion. The

make top quality product that has some

processes in producing the final product.

familiar and new, all at once.

limitations to it, but it’s those limitations

end, but it takes time and experience, there are no shortcuts there.

While there are no shortcuts, aren’t the possibilities in eyewear design rather limited by nature? What keeps it exciting for you? S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

Is it important to you that your glasses are ‘attainable’? We’re very conscious not to price out our customers, we want to offer a sort

»Keera«

want to be positioned. We manage it by

Our consumer is looking for a bit of

That last part is more important in the

You mentioned acetate. Are there certain materials you prefer to work with?

hand, it has a certain welcoming ‘warmth’

Well, we for sure never take shortcuts

You have probably dedicated a lot of time to the pursuit since starting RAEN, right?

in hand, and even better when worn.

the feel of the finished product in your

and years. We know that we have so Ah yes, but limitation is what makes

tentious. They are high quality, feel great

We do love to work with acetate. I love

expected at that given price point. That

design-oriented problem solving to any

200

‘Attainable’ is an important concept for

What role does the optical collection play for RAEN?

about, and something I am really pouring

frames is that they are stylish but not pre-

»Adin«

that push you to get truly creative and, in many ways, quietly innovative.

On that note, what makes your eyewear recognizable in general?

of attainable ‘luxury’. A frame that feels

Over the years, we have gained a formi-

special, has nice attention to detail – but

dable reputation for our high-quality ace-

»Clyve«

S P E C T R // B R A N D P R O F I L E

201

What can customers and opticians look forward to in the new collection? We are extremely excited about our Titanium Collection. We launched this first in our EU market in Fall 2020 and will be bringing it home to the US for Spring 2021. We will be expanding these offerings in both Spring and Fall 2021. Looking ahead, we will grow this offering into our Sun collection as well. It’s an exciting new chapter for our brand.

reputation as experts in acetate. As a brand, we have been very consistent

Upscale stylistics? Sure. Pretentiousness?

working with this material. For myself per-

Never!

sonally, I’ve put a lot of effort into lear-

and lifestyle channel, but over the past

and working with our design team to

five to six years, we have evolved into a

push those strengths as the brand grows

complete optical brand, performing very

and evolves.

well in the optical channel and with the

What about other materials?

optical frames category. This is also true

We have branched out into other materi-

for the sunglass category. The pure fa-

als. A few years ago, we expanded into

shion boutique channel is not our primary

metal frames, and this Fall launched our

focus.

first titanium optical collection. So, we

And finally, why is the optical channel important for you at this point?

continue to evolve and take small steps.

Why the careful approach? We want to do it right, introducing new

the past they may have been cut with a

materials, testing processes, learning

jig. But the magic of well-made eyewear

from the market’s reaction, and building

is in all the steps that follow: Hand

upon that season by season. We have re-

polishing, forming and sculpting those

ceived fantastic feedback on our titanium

flat acetate parts into wearable, three-

collection in EU markets with great sales

dimensional works of art.

the pipeline to grow and expand that

How do you ensure a good adaptability of your glasses to the wearer?

collection in the coming seasons. It’s

We have some tricks. For example, we

extremely exciting for us!

like to use beveling as a nice aesthetic

Your glasses are handmade, but what does that mean in today’s manufacturing environment?

RAEN is at home in every retail channel it

chooses to be. We have started in the surf

ning about its strengths and weaknesses

results so far, and we have products in

Looking ahead, do you see yourself as a label for the fashion boutique or the optical store?

detail, but it also allows us to scoop away material in key areas to allow for

It’s true that the industry is embracing

better fitting and make the overall frame

more mechanized processes, but overall,

lighter weight. By removing material here

the production of eyewear requires a

and there in the design, you can make

great deal of craftsmanship to execute.

a frame that is visually pleasing, and

For example, the initial front cuts and

more comfortable and adaptable to the

temples are now done by CNC, where in

customer.

We focus strongly on the independent optical channel, because we are an alternative brand that sets independent opticians apart from large optical chains. Obviously, the optical channel is the place where optical frames are being sold, and as such, it is essential for us to bring the product to the market.

Thanks for the interview. raen.com

MASUNAGA

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