SPECTR Issue 33 by Monday Publishing GmbH

No. 33 // September 2021 // English // EUR 15,–

“DUALITY”

INTERNATIONAL EYEWEAR FASHION MAGAZINE

EYEWEAR DESIGN – INNOVATION – PRODUCTION gotti.ch

#faceaface_paris / faceaface-paris.com

Frames R1436A, R1437C

TRY IT. WEAR IT. LOVE IT.

#SEETHEWORLD

WATCH THE VIDEO:

UNREAL REALITY AW 21/22

Visit us at SILMO Paris

cars.mclaren.com

Model MLULTS02

GRAMMES www.maison-henry-jullien.fr

Mod. SKYLIGHT 06 C56

130

GREAT WIDE OPEN By Ulrich Hartmann

142

STATEMENT PIECES Silhouette 2021 Highlights

148

HISTORY IN DETAIL Look – Made In Italia Presents Materika Pure Acetate

150

DUALITY Lindberg’s New Lightness

156

ALL EYES ON US

+++ NEW ON FAVR +++

By Estelle Klawitter DANISH DESIGN FOR 3D

044

168

Monoqool’s Fashionable Lightweights INSPIRED BY MUSIC

Götti Dimension X

046

174

Vinylize – Not Only For Music Addicts FRAME LOVERS ONLY

048

177

050

178

062

184

074

197

082

202

084

204

GOING BOLD Modo Launches Strong Expression Pieces

090

By Nocera & Ferri #SEETHEWORLD WITH NIRVAN JAVAN

PLAYING WITH SHAPE AND COLOR New Face A Face Styles

Etnia Barcelona Launches Mambo Vol. 1 PAPERART – FAVR PAGES

SNEAK PEEK Hanna Goldfisch For P+us Eyewear

Eco Launches Bold Bioacetate Line INHALE BARCELONA

DIPLOMATIC PROTOCOL By Rachel Jiam

Haffmans & Neumeister New Collection Design TICKING ALL THE GREEN BOXES

INNOVATION MEETS LIGHTNESS Ørgreen Quantum High Collection

By William Ferchichi STAINLESS STEEL AT ITS BEST

BLOCK TITANIUM FROM BAVARIA Metropolitan Launches First Titanium Frames

By Jairo Alvarez & Haniball Saliba GENTRY PREROGATIVE

TWO STEPS FORWARD All New At Maison Nathalie Blanc

Gouverneur Audigier – With Tradition To Luxury THE SEMINAR

THE FUTURE IS NOW

206

SOLSTICE By Sabine Liewald

102

Next Stop: Rome THE TITANS ARE OFF

108

Koberg Goes Titanium For The First Time WHO NEEDS WORDS?

112

Fleye Copenhagen Silent Voice Collection NEW DESIGN BRAND FROM SOUTH KOREA

116

Vycoz Is Coming LAUNDRY DAY By Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter 38

S P E C T R // C O N T E N T

118

SPECIAL FEATURE: UNLOCKING YOUR FAVR MICROSITE

How To Make FAVR Premium Pro Work For Your Business

3 #3 UE SS TO I ME LC O WE 40

S P E C T R // E D I T O R I A L

L I ND B E R G thintanium »5508« “Duality” by Ulrich Hartmann (pages 150–155)

Duality is a constant theme in all walks of life: man and woman, black and white, Yin and Yang, right and wrong… Expressed in digital terms, it all translates into 0s and 1s. What makes duality special is the fact that one extreme cannot exist without the other. These seemingly contradictory elements are in a reciprocal relationship with each other, and together, they constitute the whole of existence in a never-ending cycle. So duality does not equal separation. Much rather, it holds our world together. Because on the level of individual atoms, the positive and negative charges create coherence and stability. The theme of duality is rendered artistically in our gorgeous cover shoot with Danish designer label LINDBERG. The graphic design explores a black-and-white duality that enhances the stylish form language of the frames. With that said, the absence of colors in no way dampens the impact of the superior designs and materials of LINDBERG frames. It much rather enhances them, because duality makes the world go round.

SD SPECTR // EDITORIAL

LI N DB E R G thintanium »5508« “Duality” by Ulrich Hartmann (pages 150–155)

EDITOR IN CHIEF

TRANSLATION

STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne]

DIRK VOGEL [Chicago]

dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

ONLINE EDITOR

FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] LAYOUT

online@spectr-magazine.com

CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com EDITORIAL STAFF

DIANE BETTIES [Berlin]

HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne]

STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne]

MEIKE PRECKEL [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com

WILLIAM FERCHICHI [London] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich] RACHEL JIAM [Berlin] ESTELLE KLAWITTER [Dusseldorf] SABINE LIEWALD [Ibiza]

PROOFREADING

NOCERA & FERRI [London]

INSA MUTH [Dortmund]

HANIBALL SALIBA [Berlin]

PETER ASHFORD [London]

RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf]

FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]

Kamekestrasse 20-22 50672 Cologne, Germany t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS

JAIRO ALVAREZ [Berlin]

krosigk@spectr-magazine.com

PUBLISHER

MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH

CEOS

STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK PRINT

F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg, Germany fw-medien.de cover photos ULRICH HARTMANN styling SHIMA KHAZEI make-up FABIENNE HOPPE hair TINA PACHTA models CAMILLE T. at SEEDS & CARL at KULT assistant JULIUS WOREL

SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

S P E C T R // I M P R I N T

NEW ON

In the Slider series, the pioneer of 3D-printed eyewear raises the bar with front sections crafted from High Performance Polyamide combined with ultra-thin stainless-steel temples.

DANISH DESIGN FOR 3D Monoqool’s Fashionable Lightweights

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

It’s deeply rooted in the DNA of eyewear brand MONOQOOL to work with innovative materials and technologies. So it’s no surprise that the Danish high-tech eyewear outfit has adopted (and advanced) 3D-printing processes. While many labels may be offering 3D-printed frames at this point, it’s worth pointing out that MONOQOOL counts among the early pioneers. Today, the label is printing its models from High Performance Polyamide, entirely in Denmark. As a guiding prin-

M ON OQOOL

ciple, the designers are dedicated to

»Rosalina RS73«

offering wearers the highest possible level of comfort. In order to make it happen, they have been able to lower the overall weight of models in the Slider series down to only 4 grams – a new world record! – through the use of ultra-thin, screwless temples crafted from stainless steel. The motto: “Easy to adjust. Happy customers.” The best

»Ghost Buster GH11«

news is that you can now try these new models, and more MONOQOOL, virtually right here on FAVR. www.monoqool.com

Scan to try on MONOQOOL FAVRSPECS.COM

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

»Carson CR21«

MOD 673

BE ICONIC ▪

BE CAZAL ▪

C A Z A L- E Y E W E A R . C O M

NEW ON

VI N Y LI Z E »Newport«

Scan to try on VINYLIZE FAVRSPECS.COM

»Goldmark«

»PwrUp«

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

INSPIRED BY MUSIC

Vinylize – Not Only For Music Addicts In the 1990s, the market for vinyl records almost entirely disappeared. Although nowadays actual vinyl records are making a comeback among collectors and connoisseurs, most music played today is digital. Nevertheless, a label based in Budapest has been turning recycled polyvinylchloride – or “vinyl” in short – into gorgeous eyewear frames: Meet VINYLIZE. The team around founders Zach and Zoltan Tipton has perfected a process to craft a pair of eyeglasses from three records as the raw material. When it comes to uniqueness, the bold frames are hard to beat. Although the glasses may appear simply ‘black’ at first sight, a closer look reveals the individual characteristics of each frame. That’s because upon closer inspection, individual tracks shimmer and shine, so you can almost hear the records. Fans of acetate frames may also like the stylish ‘Made in Hungary’, because the vinyl is laminated with premium hypoallergenic plant-based Italian cellulose acetate. The label’s deep roots in music also shine through in collabs between VINYLIZE and true greats such as AC/DC and Miles Davis. What’s more, the list of famous musicians who like to wear glasses by VINYLIZE also reads like a who’s who of the music industry. And while we love namedropping, we would rather use the space to showcase these amazing pieces of eyewear that truly rock! 46

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

www.vinylize.com

Silmo Paris Hall 5a J109

@jfreyofficial

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

NEW ON

G OU V E R NE U R AU DI G I E R »Conventus Round«

»Purium Round«

»Metallum Trapeze«

FRAME LOVERS ONLY

G o u v e r n e u r A u d i g i e r – W i t h Tr a d i t i o n To L u x u r y Only a select few eyewear labels can look back on a storied tradition like GOUVERNEUR AUDIGIER. Back in 1878, Clément Gouverneur established his

first factory in the town of Morez, deep in the French Jura region, with the goal of manufacturing eyeglasses at the highest level of quality. Even today, almost 150 years later, this type of attention to craftsmanship and the long history of excellence are palpable in every single model released by the brand. That’s also because manufacturing still takes place in the exact same workshop in the town that is now the capital of the French eyewear industry. Despite its traditional background, GOUVERNEUR AUDIGIER is far from resting on its laurels or stagnant when it comes to new impulses. Instead, the French label is open to blending more than a century of experience with new, innovative impulses while working with luxe materials such as gold, titanium and leather. The eyewear line-up is divided into two collections: In the premium luxury collection Gouverneur, the designers are playing with the full bandwidth of contemporary designs and elevated accents. And in the more fashionable and youthful GOUV/AU collection, the shapes offer a special twist and include Scan to try on GOUVERNEUR AUDIGIER FAVRSPECS.COM

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

several delicate frame designs as well as daring interpretations of chic panto frames. Something for everyone! www.gouverneur-audigier.com

TITAN Aura T3382 TITAN Aura T3381

KO BERG

KOB E RG

»KT 6041«

»KT 6035«

shirt SEIDENSTICKER

suit SELECTED FEMME

trousers BALDESSARINI

shirt SEIDENSTICKER

belt STRELLSON

turtleneck FALKE

tie ETERNA

SPECTR

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SALI B A & JAI R O

ALVAR E Z [Berlin]

SPECTR

N AT H A L I E B L A NC PA RI S »Juliette« suit TIGER OF SWEDEN shirt MARC CAIN turtleneck MAX&CO

SPECTR

BLACKFIN »Ostberg« shirt OLYMP trousers TIGER OF SWEDEN tie ETERNA

SPECTR

CAZA L »MOD 7090« long-sleeve poloshirt FALKE shirt SANDRO PARIS

CAZA L »MOD 4291« gilet MARC CAIN blouse BODYFLIRT trousers JIL SANDER shoes TIGER OF SWEDEN

SPECTR

NI RVA N JAVA N Shades of Chicago »03:11:07 (CST)« dress TIGER OF SWEDEN turtleneck FALKE jewelry CLASSYANDFABULOUS

SPECTR

LU N O R »M9 01« dress MARC CAIN turtleneck ESPRIT boots KONSTANTIN STARKE NEW YORK

SPECTR

LU N O R »A11 453« jacket STRELLSON trousers PAUL SMITH shirt LINDBERGH tie ETERNA

SPECTR

PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8921« coat TIGER OF SWEDEN shirt MASSIMO DUTTI tie ETERNA

SPECTR

M c L A R EN »MLSGPS05« coat SANDRO PARIS shirt CATWALK JUNKIE turtleneck FALKE trousers SHEIN

SPECTR

WOL LEN WEBER »220« suit TIGER OF SWEDEN shirt ETERNA shoes COPENHAGEN belt BUGATTI

SPECTR

C L EM ENCE & MA R GAU X »CMS111 La Copacabana« jacket TWISTED TAILOR dress RELIGION necklaces SPINELLI KILCOLLIN

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F E R CHI CHI [London]

SPECTR

RODENSTO CK »R1440« shirt TWISTED TAILOR necklace EGO

SPECTR

R O DE NSTOC K »R1441« dress A STAR IS BORN

SPECTR

G IGI STUDIOS »Eddie« dress NICHLORIS teddy ALL SAINTS earring PIECES

SPECTR

GIGI ST UDIOS »Morrison« jacket TWISTED TAILOR shirt RELIGION necklace LOREN STEWART

SPECTR

J. F. RE Y

J. F. R E Y

»JF2954«

shirt TWISTED TAILOR

dress NATALIE + ALANNA

skirt DIESEL necklaces SPINELLI KILCOLLIN rings STYLIST’S OWN

SPECTR

H A F FMAN S & NE U M E I ST ER »Armand« jacket LEVI’S jumpsuit DIESEL ring ALEXANDER MCQUEEN bracelets SPINELLI KILCOLLIN

SPECTR

SA LT. »Garland« dress EDWARD MONGZAR LEATHER

top RELIGION, shirt NICHLORIS,

necklace ANNAKIKI

necklace SPINELLI KILCOLLIN SPECTR

ETNIA BARCE LONA »Mambo No. 4« jacket MOSCHINO top & trousers NATALIE + ALANNA leather choker ALEXANDER MCQUEEN necklace STYLIST’S OWN

SPECTR

HAFFMANS & NEUM E I ST ER x M A R CU S PAU L »Emilio« jacket LEVI’S turtleneck UNIQLO

MAST

Hello Philipp, Daniel and Tjarko. HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER has

However, that can be very impractical. So we decided to restruc-

managed to position itself as a premium brand within just a few

ture our collection offering. Taking a step back and from a user

years. Now you are redesigning your collections. Why?

perspective – from the optician to the consumer.

Philipp: The goal was to streamline the collections. Working in

Did you feel like there were too few distinguishing features bet-

a narrow, special interest field, for instance as designers, you

ween the individual collections?

become hyper-aware of subtleties. And as a result, you tend to

Daniel: It wasn’t that they were too few but when it comes to eye-

classify everything within those detailed nuances and parameters.

wear, we work with fractions of millimeters and these fractions are

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

STAINLESS STEEL

stills RAP H AE L S CHM I T Z

photography DIAN E B E T T I E S styling DAVOR JELUSIC at LIGANORD, hair & make-up MELANIE HOPPE, model YULEK at TAKE3MANAGEMENT

TERING

Haffmans & Neumeister New Collection Design

Ever since its brand debut, HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER has been causing a stir in the eyewear universe. This is less because of the notoriety and reputation of the label’s founders but more due to the delicate approach to designing optical products. The brand is known for a high level of expertise in stainless steel frames – but make no mistake: HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER can also innovate and pursue new directions! Just recently, the Berlin-based outfit has restructured its entire collection offering. SPECTR talks to Philipp, Daniel and Tjarko about the ins and outs.

often not visible to the naked eye. From an internal perspective it

Daniel: Depending on the characteristics of each individual mo-

was, and remains, important to separate these products. But for

del, the styles from ULX and Italic have been shifted to one of the

the general consumer it was not relevant.

three remaining collections.

Are there any collections that you have discontinued?

Daniel: Yes, the restructuring eliminated two of our more recent collections, ULX and Italic. What will happen to the styles from these two collections?

What collections are you starting into the new season with? Tjarko: The line-up of collections will consist of Ultralight, Ultralight Plus, and Bold. How does that break down? SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

ULTRALIGHT COLLECTION

The Ultralight collection embodies the fundamental design philosophy behind HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER. It showcases pure stainless-steel frames with reduced and refined silhouettes.

»O

no«

H AF FMAN S & NE U M E I ST ER Ultralight »Noelle« shirt PAUL SMITH sweater SANDRO

Tjarko: The collections separate from one another by their mix of

le«

brand?

materials and each occupies its own price category: All bare metal

Philipp: The Ultralight collection is the embodiment of all the

frames belong to Ultralight. Our Ultralight Plus models are Ultra-

design philosophies that make up our brand. The stainless-steel

lights with an acetate addition. The third line is the Bold collection,

skeleton is almost crude, however through a lot of patience and

which is made up of stronger and bolder metal as well as acetate

attention to detail, it becomes a piece of jewelry.

combination frames. Which of your collections particularly represents the DNA of your 76

el »No

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

And what design feature is typical for HNH? Daniel: It’s also in the Ultralight range where we first introduced

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H AFFMAN S & NE U M E I ST ER

ULTRALIGHT PLUS COLLECTION

Ultralight Plus

The Ultralight Plus collection consists

»O« turtleneck SANDRO

of styles, in which the metal skeleton receives an eye-catching update with carefully applied acetate details.

trenchcoat LEVI’S

our rivet hinge, a simple and aesthetic modular solution that has

Philipp: The Ultralight collection is comprised of any piece that is a

become an additional “red thread” tying all of our collections

pure-metal skeletal design – no extras. Pure and simple, focused

together. Innovation is very important to us but it’s also important

on refined forms, reduced silhouettes, and minimal weight.

that technology remains easy to understand and work with. It’s

How does that differ from the Ultralight Plus collection?

with this collection that we found ourselves again; a new design

Philipp: Ultralight Plus consists of any model that is adorned with

language that felt at home and truly represented us in the present.

acetate, whether temple tips or lens inserts, for instance the Wind-

What else distinguishes the Ultralight collection?

sor Ring style. The subtle acetate extras are the “Plus”. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

BOLD COLLECTION

The models in the new Bold collection emphasize strong and bold acetate fronts, balanced on a stainless-steel frame.

»D

& NE Bo UM ito ld EI «& ST »P ER ay ton «

Your Bold collection is new. What materials are you playing with here?

to how our collections are now decided: the ratio of stainless steel to acetate. Bold is more milk to espresso.

Philipp: Bold is predominantly an acetate collection. However, all

You’re also running a collaboration with the stylist and interior

our collections utilize the stainless-steel skeleton as a base. It’s

designer Marcus Paul. What is special about the collection?

a question of how much is added to that skeleton. It’s just how a

Tjarko: Our collaboration with Marcus Paul is fashion-oriented and

cappuccino, cortado, flat white, and latte are all coffees with milk

characterized by the juxtaposition of our stripped-down thin metal

but it’s the ratio of coffee to milk that defines them. This is similar

with an especially chunky acetate.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

H AFFMAN S & NE U M E I ST ER Bold »Devito« turtleneck JIL SANDER pullover 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

HAF F M AN S & N E U M E I ST E R Bold »Payton« jacket GIVN shirt LEVI’S

But then what is the difference to the models from the Bold collection? Tjarko: While the Marcus Paul mounting system, known internally

pronounced and heavy on volume. Will your new collection policy also change anything in terms of branding or sales?

as “the pin stripe”, has now made its way into our revamped Bold

Philipp: On the surface, restructuring the collections has very little

collection, the Marcus Paul models are noticeably more exagge-

to do with our branding and is more about curation. That said, our

rated. Not only is there the dynamic contrast between the very

collection structure and branding has evolved quite a bit since we

bare metal with acetate, but the acetate shapes themselves are

first launched. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER X MARCUS PAUL

In the collaboration with designer Marcus Paul, the use of blocky acetate elements creates a fashion-forward aesthetic.

ER ST I E M L U N E AU o« & SP li S mi U A N R C & »E M A F F x M mir« A i H lad V »

HAF F M AN S & N E U M E I ST E R x M ARC US PAUL »Vladimir« shirt SANDRO

Daniel: When we returned to the industry there were a lot of carryover concepts and aesthetics from our previous brands. After all, it is who we had been for a very long time. Over the course of the last three years we’ve evolved, the brand has evolved, and we’ve come to a place which is just as much about discovering who we are now as it is letting go of who we used to be. Do you have plans, where this evolution will take you in the coming seasons? Philipp: We will continue to focus on pushing our limits and the limits of the materials we work with. Sounds exciting. Thanks. www.haffmansneumeister.com 80

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Sustainable? Yes! Boring? No way!

TICKING ALL THE GREEN BOXES Eco Launches Bold Bioacetate Line

Transparent bio acetate lends these bold frames a sense of lightness.

S P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

ECO »Agate«

»Onyx«

»Lapis« The current bio acetate collection is a bit more muted but definitely more fashionable.

»Quartz«

True to its name, indie label ECO counts among the

statement. The form language of the frames is no longer

earliest pioneers when it comes to sustainability in the

understated, but full of fashion appeal that turns up the

eyewear game. From day one, the brand has pursued

volume. Here’s proof that sustainability no longer equals

the goal of maintaining a minimal eco footprint across its

doing things quietly behind the scenes – but loud and

products. Ever since then, the label has innovated and

proud! This also rings true for ECO’s new color palette in

improved to realize this bold vision on several levels.

the line: The colorways, much like the thickness of the

Alongside the use of recycled materials – mostly

material, are bound to draw attention. At the same time,

plastic leveraged from the planet’s oceans – ECO is also

the shapes exhibit a certain sense of lightness, perhaps

introducing a growing number of frames crafted from

through the skillful use of transparent segments.

bioacetate. With that said, ECO is ticking all the green

For customers looking to go beyond purchasing

boxes: The label stays true to its commitment of realizing

resource-saving eyeglasses, there are more ways to get

sustainability and conscious use of resources across all

involved: How about supporting ECO in a beach clean-

collections as well as manufacturing processes.

up effort? For more info on eco activism and the latest

The current bioacetate collection also makes a bold

collections, visit www.eco-eyewear.com. S P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

E T N I A B AR CE LO N A »Mambo No. 5« top & skirt DAWID TOMASZEWSKI bikini DOLCE & GABBANA earrings CULT GAIA

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

photography SAC H A TAS S I LO H Ö CH ST ET T E R , styling KONSTANTINOS GKOUMPETIS, hair & make-up ALEXANDRA LEDERER, model KATLEEN K. at MUNICH MODELS

BARCELONA Etnia Barcelona Launches Mambo Vol. 1

Everyone who knows ETNIA BARCELONA is probably familiar with their #BeAnartist campaign. It’s a motivational call for everyone to express themselves via designer products. And ‘expressive’ just happens to be the operational term for the Spanish label’s new Mambo Vol. 1 collection. Supported by a colorful and vibrant campaign, the eyewear brand from Barcelona once again displays its penchant for rebellious and eccentric appearances. The campaign is an adrenaline kick that signifies the joy of life and celebrating. After all, isn’t Barcelona known for hosting some of the best parties on the planet? The sheer name of the Mediterranean metropolis conjures up images of long nights, lived to the fullest. The new Mambo Vol. 1 collection is equally optimistic, extraordinary, and unique. It perfectly encapsulates the brand’s DNA that revolves around shapes and colors in their purest essence. The new line consists of several oversized sunglass designs, all inspired by the euphoric pulse of Barcelona, a city that never sleeps. Wearers will recognize the rhythms, passion, and excitement of the city in every frame. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

For the full package, look for perfectly executed laminations in natural acetate that creates a ‘shape within a shape’ effect in these generously sized frames. Vibrant colorways such as ivory, turquoise, orange, red and violet effortlessly blend with tortoise as well as shades of brown, blue and green. Shapes range from round to bold corners, while the polished acetate finish adds a soft touch to the striking color palette. The result is an exclusive collection, manufactured with state-of-the-art technologies and just as diverse as the city that inspired it. With the new Mambo Vol. 1 line, ETNIA BARCELONA takes us on a journey through the multicultural and lifeaffirming metropolis known as Barcelona. The campaign matches the energy of the products and transforms every single piece of the collection into a feast. Once again, sustainability looms large over the collection. ETNIA BARCELONA implements natural materials such as high-grade acetate made from cotton and wood. The lenses are crafted from exclusive mineral glass. Plus, each item ships in a sustainable and certified cardboard case that is 100% recyclable. The Mambo line invites wearers to dream. Now that we’ve finally regained some of our freedom and can dance again, it’s an ode to joy after a long darkness. In this issue’s collection shoot for SPECTR, photographer Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter and team captures the raw energy of the new Mambo Vol. 1 line in its essence. Stay tuned, this is just the beginning! www.etniabarcelona.com

E T N I A B AR CE LO N A »Mambo No. 3« earrings MIU MIU via NIGHTBOUTIQUE bikini JACOB LEE

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

»Mambo No. 4«

E T N I A B AR CELON A »Mambo No. 2«

swimsuit MARINA HOERMANSEDER

top DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN earrings MUSSELS AND MUSCLES

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

ETN IA B A R C E LONA »Mambo No. 1« top GUESS pants MARCIANO bracelet PRADA via NIGHTBOUTIQUE

E T N I A B AR CE LO N A »Mambo No. 1« bra JIL SANDER via NIGHTBOUTIQUE pearls GKIOKAN KARAD COUTURE

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

#ABBRACCIO

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S P E C T R / / FAV R

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S P E C T R / / FAV R

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»EF02 Bold«

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S P E C T R / / FAV R

»Yunis«

KLEN ZE& BAUM

»Sumo«

»Pinto« S P E C T R / / FAV R

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S P E C T R / / FAV R

»A11 451«

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»M9 02«

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S P E C T R / / FAV R

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M ODO

»4106«

S P E C T R / / FAV R

NEU BAU »Luca«

»Ella«

»Maxime«

S P E C T R / / FAV R

»Jeanne«

»Marlene«

ROBE RT LA ROCHE

»Moloco«

S P E C T R / / FAV R

SIL HOUE TTE

Infinity View »1600«

Lite Arcs »5548«

Identity »5535«

S P E C T R / / FAV R

WOL LENW EBER

»2293«

»2310«

»2206« 100

S P E C T R / / FAV R

ON LECTI L O C LE 2021 AILAB V R A E T W N NO WI FALL—

NI RVA N JAVA N TOKYO

»03:07 (JST)«

»01:01 (JST)«

N IRVA N JAVA N CHICAGO

»10:05 (CST)«

»09:09 (CST)«

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SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

Scan to try on NIRVAN JAVAN FAVRSPECS.COM

The Tokyo Collection reflects the pinnacle of Japanese artisanship in hand-crafted titanium frames.

#SEETHEWORLD WITH NIRVAN JAVAN photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Next Stop: Rome

As a relatively young eyewear label based in Switzerland, NIRVAN JAVAN has mastered the rare feat of becoming a fixture on the international market in a short time. Premium opticians across the globe display imagery from the brand’s #SEETHEWORLD campaign in their windows. The claim is more than just a marketing gimmick, but reflects the cosmopolitan approach pursued by the designer and his team. Here’s Nirvan talking shop in our SPECTR interview.

The stainless-steel models of the Chicago Collection reflect the urban architecture and dynamic flair of the metropolis on Lake Michigan. SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

103

N I RVAN JAVA N PARIS

»04:16 (CET)«

»08:18 (CET)«

NIRVAN JAVA N LONDON

»09:04 (GMT)«

»03:02 (GMT)«

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SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

Upscale design, implemented in glossy acetate set the tone for the Paris Collection.

Hello Nirvan, the last time we spoke about

feeling with others. It’s about sharing the

artists. Chicago conjures up images of

NIRVAN JAVAN was at our Cologne studio a

prettiest places and cultures in the world,

the massive railway city in America. Every

while back. What’s been happening in your

in order to create something new. A new

single city has a sense of uniqueness,

world over the last year?

experience.

but also openness. That’s why we chose

The last year was challenging without a

Your photo shoot also contains a luxurious

them for NIRVAN JAVAN collections.

doubt. Corona left nobody untouched.

sentiment. What kind of brand values does

On that note, what’s behind the naming

The main downer was the cancellation

it reflect?

scheme for the pieces in the collections?

of all eyewear tradeshows. But now I’m

Modern society is facing an infinite

The philosophy behind #SEETHEWORLD

even more looking forward to open doors

horizon. It’s exactly this cosmopolitanism,

penetrates the smallest details at NIRVAN

again. At the same time, the last year also

fueled by globalization, that is the source

JAVAN. All the way to naming the models

brought opportunities.

of much inspiration. The exchange of di-

after time zones, for instance »Tokyo 01:01«.

verse cultures creates a symbio-

The name of the collection is always based on the

There was time to look inwards, get inspi-

tic flow that leads to something

respective city. The hours on the clock describe the

red and then channel this inspiration into

new, always with a hint of luxury.

model number, while the minutes represent the color

additions to the collection or entirely new

This is the core thought behind

code, and we use the seconds to demarcate the tint

collections. Now we are looking towards

NIRVAN JAVAN and every single

of the lenses.

the new year with great expectations.

collection.

In how far?

This system provides a strong structure but

You’re kicking off the season with the

The namesakes for these collections are ci-

seems somewhat high concept. Is it easy to

#SEETHEWORLD campaign. Why is this

ties such as Paris, Chicago, London, Tokyo,

grasp for opticians?

international focus important to you?

Zurich, and Rome. Why exactly these six

At first sight it may seem a bit complex,

cities? Is there a personal connection?

but once you spend some more time with

#SEETHEWORLD is more than a mere campaign. It’s a credo, a philosophy of

All these cities share a strong cosmopo-

openness that celebrates the experience

litan character. Regardless in which of

litan approach affects every fiber of NIR-

of other cultures and traditions. Cosmo-

these six metropolises you happen to be,

VAN JAVAN. Even the model names of the

politanism is very important to me, per-

the diversity is palpable. Multiculturalism

glasses tell the stories of world travelers.

sonally. Having grown up in Switzerland,

is an essential component. This exact

Once you recognize the underlying story,

in a Persian household, I felt at an early

aspect of freedom and cultural exchange

it’s easier to see through the number

age what it means to be a global citizen.

was a specific criterion for selecting

sequences.

Cultures do not isolate but complement

these cities. What’s more, each city owns

In how far do the individual collections

one another. With the #SEETHEWORLD

its own, significant personality. Thinking

differ and what is the concrete connection

campaign we are looking to share this

of Paris, it’s the gentle city of poets and

to those cities?

it you see the advantages. The cosmopo-

Timeless but still modern: The London Collection fascinates with high-grade Japanese acetate in expressive designs. SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

105

Exclusive color compositions characterize the avantgarde styles in the Rome Collection.

NI RVA N JAVA N ROME

»Remus«

»Romulus«

»07:02:02 (CET)«

106

The city represented by the frames

are like a museum under the open sky, in

»Romulus« and »Remus« is limited to 100

determines the shape and colorway of

which the architecture, art, and history of

pieces.

a model. The unique character of Tokyo

several thousand years impact the visitor.

Are you planning on covering additional lo-

derives from the symbiosis between

You realize that Rome offers endless ins-

cations in the #SEETHEWORLD campaign?

tradition and technology. It’s exactly this

piration. And the results are eight graceful

Or will you rather be adding new models to

character that is reflected in the Japan-

sunglasses.

existing collections?

made, hand-crafted frames from high-

You also include two limited editions with

Existing collections will definitely be

grade titanium. The monochromatic

the »Romulus« and »Remus«. What makes

expanded with new models. We’re

colors, together with the geometric

them stand out?

assuming new perspectives and viewing

shapes recreate the skyline of Tokyo

These two limited-edition sunglasses are

the same city in a different light – which

in every frame. Every single one of the

not dedicated to famous locations. Their

leads to new inspirations. NIRVAN JAVAN

manifold models can be deconstructed to

namesakes are much rather the heroes

is on a journey around the globe. And this

discover the city behind it.

of mythology who, several millennia ago,

journey has only just begun. Additional

Your most recent line is the Rome Collec-

planted the foundation for one of the

and even more exotic cities will provide

tion. What were the main guidelines? tion

most famous metropolitan cities in the

the inspiration for future collections. So all

The Eternal City welcomes every visitor

world: Romulus and Remus. You can re-

that’s left to say is stay tuned and join us in

with a deluge of beauty and details that

discover their history in the cubic shapes

discovering new places and impressions.

very few destinations are able to match.

and the intense, dark color nuances of

Once you spend just a few hours in this

the acetate frames. And in order to point

metropolis, it’s already clear: History is

out the exclusive nature of Rome’s foun-

still alive here. The streets themselves

ding myth, the production run of the

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

Thank you very much, Nirvan. www.nirvanjavan.com

THE TITANS ARE OFF Koberg Goes Titanium For The First Time

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

The next level of titanium eyewear is here. And not from Denmark, but from the quaint town of Munster, Germany. With their third collection, eyewear label KOBERG is premiering their first line of titanium frames. SPECTR sits down with Frank Tente for the ins and outs of this milestone, and how the new titanium models fit into the overall collection.

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SPECTR // BEHIND THE SCENE

KO B E R G »KT 6052«

Block titanium made by KOBERG: Long-lasting material also calls for longlasting design.

»KT 6053«

Hello Frank, your relatively young KOBERG

cal hinge featured in our first two collec-

label is launching its third collection. What

tions has been transitioned into a flatter

We initially started the KOBERG collection

are the similarities to previous offerings?

design element in our titanium models,

with milled stainless steel and its unique

due to the properties of the material.

processing options. And in our acetate

KOBERG is an eyewear collection that

out into titanium?

stands out through craftsmanship. The

Will titanium only feature in part of your

models, we had the impression that ma-

glasses are made with a focus on quality

collection or are you making a complete

chined materials still have some untap-

and wearable design. We’re into small,

switch?

ped potential. So it was only logical to

craftsman details and also put an empha-

Only a part of the collection, for now. The

sis on using the best possible materials.

stainless-steel models still offer a variety

Which advantages does titanium offer, and

of creative options that titanium cannot

do you see it as a long-term commitment?

What has changed in your latest collection? The new collection has been crafted entirely from block titanium. And the cylindri-

match. What is the general idea behind branching

take a look at titanium as a new material.

Sustainability has always been a major cause for us. And titanium offers real lonSPECTR // BEHIND THE SCENE

109

The signature KOBERG cylindrical hinge from the first collections evolves into a flat design element in the Titanium Series.

110

gevity as a material that also works great

thin hinges and temple shapes possible.

We also have maintained a partnership

for eyewear: It’s extremely robust and

The team now delivered great work in our

in South Korea for many years, with a

antiallergenic. But working with sustain-

third series. With the decorative element

specialization in premium milling tech-

able materials also requires sustainable,

on the temples, they created a premium

niques. This is where the raw pieces for

durable designs.

designer product.

the titanium collection are machined and

On that note, how and where do you

How is the manufacturing process structu-

then welded, coated, and assembled in

design your products?

red? We imagine that you are not producing

Gerlingen.

In 2019, the design team at Studio Spek-

titanium frames at your Munster headquar-

Are there recognizable design elements

takel already contributed its signature

ters.

typical for KOBERG?

style to the second KOBERG line. This mo-

Exactly. Here in Munster, we ‘only’ manu-

KOBERG models always have a special

dern and international look translated the

facture our acetate pieces. The stainless-

accent at the intersection between hinges

characteristic, cylindrical KOBERG hinges

steel collections have been made by

and temples. First the screwless and

into delicate shapes that made extremely

Alex Picicci in Gerlingen since day one.

cylindrical hinge and now the embedded

SPECTR // BEHIND THE SCENE

KO B E R G »KT 6051«

»KT 6050«

tile ornament.

levels of thickness at the lens borders,

happens to value titanium.

What can you tell us about the ‘tile’ accent?

hinges, and temples from the same block

Does the new collection present somewhat

Adding a cylindrical element at the hinges

of titanium. We place special focus on the

of a shift in the KOBERG design DNA?

would be rather unfortunate working with

edges with a slight bevel. And with the

Definitively not! We simply apply eve-

block titanium. So in essence, we went

amazing colors from Berlac, used from

rything that characterizes KOBERG to a

and ‘flattened’ our cylinder and that led to

the start in KOBERG eyewear, we create

this sort of cover for the hinge. It’s manu-

some subtle accents once again.

factured and coated by hand in Germany

Are you looking to serve a new target

in an elaborate process.

group with your titanium frame?

What are other standout features of the

Basically, our target group remains the

titanium collection?

same: People who appreciate quality and

We rely on a rather robust raw material,

design at an equal measure. We have

in order to be able to machine different

learned that part of this demographic also

new and exciting raw material. What other areas of focus can we expect over the coming years? Acetate of course! From our own factory. Thanks for the interview. www.koberg-tente.de

SPECTR // BEHIND THE SCENE

111

WHO NEEDS W ORDS? Fleye Copenhagen “Silent Noise” Collection

»Helene« is a thin and oversized frame that not only appears edgy, but also rather feminine and enhances every face with a unique boost of personality.

F LE Y E

»Tamara«

112

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

»Helene«

Scan to try on FLEYE COPENHAGEN FAVRSPECS.COM

In everyday speech, an oxymoron is the juxtaposition of two seemingly exclusive opposites. But in eyewear design, this kind of contrast can yield powerful results when it’s used as a stylistic device. For proof, check out the new Silent Noise collection by Scandinavian brand FLEYE COPENHAGEN. The campaign tells a unique story – entirely without words – in the style of silent films from the 1910s. SPECTR gets behind the scenes! Tribute to a Diva First things first, the new Silent Noise line by FLEYE is a tribute to a silver screen icon: Danish actress Asta Nielsen, one of the most famous lead actors in 1910s film production and one of the first international movie stars. Having risen from humble origins, Nielsen advanced to become one of the highest-paid actresses in the world. As a young film star, her lavish life of luxury and her self-confident clothing style earned Nielsen a reputation as a fashion icon. Her dark brown eyes and hair also lent her a special aura of mystique, while her colorful personality as a diva earned her recognition on the international scene. »Tamara« is a thin and square optical style. Adding an oversized look

Telling a Story without Words

to the mix, it creates a strong aura.

In the process of finding inspiration for the collection, the FLEYE design team embarked on a journey back in time to the glory days of the silver screen. The fundamental concept consisted of translating Asta Nielsen’s grandiose lifestyle into gorgeous frame shapes. From this departure point, the design team started experimenting with broken glass to invoke the contours of champagne flutes, shadows, and feathers. This created an inspirational environment to invoke Nielsen’s aura. Using these stylistic elements, the team created shadow outlines that pay homage to the basic nature of silent film, most importantly the ability to tell a story without using any words. SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

113

With its classic, delicate appearance, the »Eske« is an equally timeless and modern frame with a special edge of elegance.

F LE Y E »Eske« »Magda« is the perfect combination of feminine and daring, chic and enchanting.

»Magda«

114

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

»Tesman« is an optical style blending classic and modern design in a unique manner and invites lots of deep eye contact.

F LE Y E »Tesman« »Aage« is a square unisex frame with an oversized look that personifies lots of selfconfidence and urban attitude.

»Aage«

Contrasts between Colors and Expression When it came to selecting the color palette for the Silent Noise collection, FLEYE relied on vintage movie posters from Asta Nielsen’s acting career. Rich in vibrant colors, these posters exuded a unique sense of attitude that directly informed the collection’s choice of colors and engravings on the frames. By channeling Nielsen’s legacy into the colorways and silhouettes of the collection in this creative manner, the new line attains a recognizable design DNA. Some of the designs feature a unicolored and dark front section, contrasted by a colored backside. Others strike a feminine but powerful appearance – enriched by oversized shapes – while others tend to be rather delicate but also strong in character. As you see, contrasts and oxymorons abound in this stylish line inspired by the lifestyle of silver screen icon Asta Nielsen. For SPECTR, designer Annette Estø chose her six favorites from the Silent Noise collection – by the way, the models are named after important persons from Nielsen’s life – and shares her personal connection to these styles.

www.fleye.dk SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

115

V YC OZ

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

»Incline-X Lux«

»Incline-X Box«

NEW DESIGN BRAND FROM SOUTH KOREA Vycoz Is Coming

The name VYCOZ translates into something

rean tradition for contemporary and modern

like ‘by Korea’. And that’s exactly where this

designs that look forward and backward

rather young label originates from – the

at the same time. For the 2021 campaign

South Korean capital of Seoul, to be precise.

entitled Timeless, the heads at VYCOZ set

Here at the VYCOZ house, the label handles

up a shoot inside a traditional Korean home.

all design and production in a controlled pro-

The setting rings true to the label’s mission:

cess. Owning its very own unique manufac-

Tradition and quality meet modern designs;

turing know-how allows the brand to create

always with a clean, purist and reduced aes-

eyewear with a high level of authenticity, a

thetic. The formula not only resonates with

strong identity as well as a healthy dose of

audiences at home in Korea but has also built

independence and flexibility.

a growing international fanbase. As the name

The design DNA follows the South Ko116

SPECTR // SPOTTED

Timeless suggests, VYCOZ is here to stay.

The segmentation of the collection is also

What’s more, VYCOZ also curates a quality

built to resist the test of time. VYCOZ groups all

collection for children. And as opposed to many

pieces of the collection into seven sub-collec-

other labels playing in this segment, their de-

tions, all the while drawing on several different

signs are far from infantile or ‘kiddie style’. Just

materials. The line features natural materials

the opposite, these pieces carry the full brand

such as Swiss Bio Empla alongside more tra-

DNA and make children look like little grown-

ditional classics such as sheet metal. Many of

ups with stylish eyewear.

the frames are equipped with screwless hinges,

The common denominator between all

while others can be upgraded into sunglas-

collections is VYCOZ’s clean design languages.

ses via stylish clip-ons. On that note, the label

Most pieces tend to be subtle and understated,

also offers full-fledged sunglasses collections

but always offer a unique twist that warrants a

that also live up to the Made in Korea quality

second look. Plenty of reasons to check out this

standard.

upcoming brand from the South Korean capital. www.vycoz.com

VYCOZ »Zaki«

»Bolki«

»Ximo«

SPECTR // SPOTTED

117

AR MA NI BE

ma LA ke -up UR AL EV UN E DG LYN KA RE EN RB A at M4 CH MO w i t h DE LS

yli AU ng S IGI TY ,A ND BRET ME T TIC NER ,j S, GO e w e lr LD WE y SU S LL & E A BE CK SS ,h IE, air m

photography SAC H A

118

SPECTR

TAS S I LO HÖ CHST E T T E R [Munich]

FAC E A FACE »Eclips 1«

FACE A FACE »Bocca Chess 2« necklace & bracelet NOUER rings ALIEN SUPERIOR, ORLANDO GIANT & HONEYCOMB

SPECTR

119

ETNI A B A R C E LONA »Ibiza 05« bracelet LOVE IS IN THE AIR rings SPLASH & RIBBON

120

SPECTR

E T N I A B AR CE LON A »Grog« rings LIED VON DER ERDE & GENESIS

SPECTR

121

I C! B E R LIN »Denisa C.« rings SYDNEY OSTER & FÜNF ELEMENTE

122

SPECTR

LI N DB E R G n.o.w. titanium »6605« necklace LOVE IS IN THE AIR rings GALADRIEL & CALLIGRAPHY

SPECTR

123

I -S PA X »Shane« earring LEAVES AND BLOSSOM

124

SPECTR

I-SPA X »Shane« earrings FLOW ring ALIEN SUPERIOR

SPECTR

125

J. AT HLE T IC S »Easyrider«

126

SPECTR

R O B E RT LA ROC H E »Godfather« bracelet LOVE IS IN THE AIR rings ALIEN, CALLIGRAPHY & GLITTERING WAVES

SPECTR

127

CA ZA L »MOD 8040« ring ORLANDO GIANT necklaces CORAL & CELLOSUITE

128

SPECTR

sty ling SH IM AK HA ZE Ia

tB OR NT HIS WA YA GE NC Y, m

ake up FA B IEN NE HO PP E,

ha ir T INA PA CH TA ,

mo de ls E RIK

LIL

IZA

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photography ULRICH

130

SPECTR

H A RT M A NN nt

LIU

[Berlin]

V YC OZ

»Ximo«

outfit CHRISTIN FABIAN

SW OR

VYCOZ »Zaki« pullover ALLUDE suit PAUL SMITH

SPECTR

131

R O B E RT LA R O CHE »Dash« shirt VAN LAACK vest PRADA

132

SPECTR

R OB E RT L A ROC H E »Sigmund« top & skirt PRADA

SPECTR

133

MO DO »4106« shirt LOUIS AND MIA pants CELINE

M O DO »7047« shirt VAN LAACK pants AMI

134

SPECTR

N E UB AU »Finn« pullover ALLUDE jacket ARMA

SPECTR

135

AD LI B »AB3281« cashmere tunic CHRISTIN FABIAN belt VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

136

SPECTR

AD LI B »AB3321« pullover ALLUDE coat ELIAS RUMELIS

SPECTR

137

GÖTTI »Ahlf« pullover MAURO OTTAVIANI coat ARMA

138

SPECTR

M ORE L »80079K« top PRADA cape CHLOÉ

SPECTR

139

S I LHO U E T T E Infinity View »2939« pullover ALLUDE, blazer CELINE 140

SPECTR

www.clemence-margaux.com

CCO - VILLA NINO - 247 avenue Bouloumié - BP20031 - 88801 VITTEL CEDEX - Tél. 03 29 08 85 85 - www.lunettes-cco.com

Modèle : CMS105 LA SUNSHINE

SILHOU E TT E Lite Arcs Half-frame glasses from high-tech titanium and components from SPX®+ in a purist design with clean form language.

142

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

SI LHO U E T T E

S I L H OUE T T E

»5549«

»4556«

suit BRACHMANN, shirt ETERNA, shoes ASOS

dress SECOND FEMALE, boots HÖGL

Scan to try on SILHOUETTE FAVRSPECS.COM

Silhouette 2021 Highlights For the last few decades, SILHOUETTE has commanded a position among the photography & production A NDRE A K A DL E R , models CELIA & FABIAN at SPIN MODEL MANAGEMENT, hair & make-up ARMIN VOGEL at CLOSE UP AGENCY, styling assistance SVEA BECKEDORF, retouch FRANCISCO BELTRAN

world’s premium eyewear labels. Through it all, the Austrian company has delivered the constant level of quality and innovation to act as one of the main players among independent eyewear brands. For a full showcase of excellence, we have hand-picked several standout models from four different SILHOUETTE collections. The level of design is always topnotch, the main differentiator is the range of materials employed by SILHOUETTE. What’s more, the frames all share the same longevity, high comfort of wear as well as amazing light weight. Let’s take a closer look: In the Momentum Select Collection, SILHOUETTE applies stylish touches of black and gold. Both of these colors, although from different ends of the spectrum, work in unison to create stylish accents. Elegance meets true luxury. The rimless models receive a true style upgrade through the ultra-thin black Accent Ring. Taking things over the top, the extraordinary lens shapes make a self-confident style statement. The Greek goddess of the dawn served as the namesake to the Eos View Collection. These full-rim frames conjure images of first light in their translucent colorways and color accents. The shape-in-shape effect provides these models with a three-dimensional character that is enhanced by carefully appointed color nuances. The comfortable Eos View models not only make a great impression in the early morning hours when the sun rises but can be counted on 24/7 for overwhelming lightness and depth of color. Transparency is the operative term in the Infinity View Collection. These models dazzle viewers with their lightness, translucency, and lofty appearance. From a design perspective, the one-piece look is the true standout: The lenses and frames seem to blend together without visible or noticeable transitions. The borderless polyamide shield is secured by titanium temples that allow for easy customization to individual wearers. Finally, the models in the Lite Arcs Collection all share the signature cut-outs in the upper bridge above the lenses. The effect is created via delicate laser cuts. These titanium half-rim frames serve as a modern interpretation of Nylor frames and make a strong statement with their purist design and clean form language. Suitable for all-day wear. Stylish through day and night with that special SILHOUETTE design DNA.

www.silhouette.com SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

143

S I LHO U E T T E Momentum Select Up to date in terms of fashion styles: rimless styles with ultrathin acetate rings in a premium black-gold colorway.

»5552 JV« dress STEFFEN SCHRAUT necklace VEDDER & VEDDER

»5552 JW« pullover 1863, shirt ETERNA

144

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

S I LHO U E T T E Eos View Full-frame glasses in translucent colors and a striking threedimensionality thanks to shapein-shape designs

»2929« kimono coat BRACHMANN shirt HUGO BOSS scarf FOOLISH PARIS pants MARCEL OSTERTAG shoes ASOS

»1597« dress BRACHMANN vest BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN bag LABEKA shoes ASOS

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

145

»2937« vest & sweater ANERKJENDT leather pants SECOND FEMALE leggings H&M boots ASOS

SIL H O UETTE Infinity View Polyamide shields and titanium temples with a one-piece appearance: lenses and frames blend together nearly seamlessly.

»2938« jacket & pants IRENE LUFT bag WEAT 146

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Reconstructable, bespoke, 3D-printed eyewear made in Munich

AS K E T C O L L E C T I O N BY

k l e n z e b a u m . c o m

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

HISTORY IN DETAIL Look - Made In Italia Presents Materika Pure Acetate

Traditional eyewear mainstays LOOK – made in Italia are embarking

148

which it was fashion-able to wear thick, dark, and well-defined frames.

on a journey back in time with their premium brand MATERIKA. Back

In search of inspiration, the designers drew on the company’s ar-

to the 1960s and 1970s, to be precise. The corresponding Materika

chive of more than 40 years of eyewear designs. They emerged with

Pure Acetate models reminisce on a historic moment when young

four models that comprise the Materika Pure Acetate collection. And

people, rebellious and aware of their right to take back their own

of course, as is the nature of MATERIKA collections, the two women’s

style, were the protagonists of the massive cultural and social chan-

models, one men’s and one unisex style all share the same high-end

ges. And from an eyewear perspective, this was a period during

finish.

S P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

LO O K – M ADE I N I TAL IA Materika Pure Acetate

»75350«

»75351«

»75352«

»75353«

At LOOK – made in Italia, designers take pride in the company’s

ship of artisan processes such as traditional wheel polishing and satin

special cellulose acetate which is superior to conventional acetate

finishing. The results are frames that contrast rounded and polished

in terms of weightlessness, plasticity, and glossiness. Despite their

interior sections with the rigidity of the angular, plain, and multifaceted

significant thickness, these glasses are light and comfortable to wear,

external surfaces. As is the case for all products, the Materika Pure

thanks also to the careful balance of their weight.

Acetate models are made in transparent processes with local manu-

As a traditional eyewear company, LOOK – made in Italia com-

facturing entirely in Italy.

www.lookocchiali.it

bines state-of-the-art materials and technologies with the craftsmanS P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

149

photography UL RIC H HA RTM A NN styling SHIMA KHAZEI at BORNTHISWAY AGENCY, make-up FABIENNE HOPPE, hair TINA PACHTA, models CAMILLE T. at SEEDS & CARL at KULT MODELS, assistant JULIUS WOREL

DUALITY – LIN

150

Lindberg Launches The Thintanium Collection In the eyewear universe, the future does not arrive overnight. It’s invented gradually, one collection at a time. For the next evolution, Scandinavian designer label LINDBERG is counting on its constant commitment to technical innovation to take titanium eyewear to the next level. Introducing: thintanium, a brand-new and patent-pending eyewear collection by LINDBERG. Manufactured 100% in Denmark by the brand’s in-house experts, this new line is possibly the thinnest fullplate titanium eyewear collection in the world. As Henrik Lindberg, Founder, CEO, and Creative Director explained thintanium: “The name says a lot already – something very thin and made of the unique element of titanium. LINDBERG’s DNA concentrates on unique designs, unique technical solutions, and of course, working with unique materials. The search to always be optimized by creating, designing, constructing, and producing the impossible drives the company from the beginning to where we are today.” Also keep in mind that LINDBERG not only commands the technical know-how to push the possibilities of titanium to new levels. The Scandinavian designer label also cultivates the cutting-edge and minimalistic aesthetics to set the tone for the future of eyewear fashion. As a result, the frames may look essentially rimless but still accentuate their outlines in fascinating color schemes. And thanks to hightech engineering, the hypoallergenic titanium glasses may weigh as little as 3.0 grams, but still maintain their robust integrity for everyday wear. The ultra-thin models feature a brand new, fully integrated screwless hinge, which is a prominent visual element in the design. For extra fashion appeal, thintanium models can also be fitted with tinted lenses to turn them into statement pieces. In this collection shoot for SPECTR, photographer Ulrich Hartmann and team imagine the new LINDBERG thintanium collection in a ‘Duality’ theme. It came out so great, we also gave it the cover. The future of eyewear has landed (once again)!

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

www.lindberg.com

NDBERG’S LI N DB E R G thintanium »5508« pants MAX MARA STUDIO blouse BLACK PALMS THE LABEL earrings NATHALIE PILL

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LI ND B E R G

L IN DB E RG

thintanium

»5501«

»5506«

coat ARMA

coat FILIPPA K.

shirt SOLUZIONE

shirt JACQUES BRITT

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L I ND B E R G thintanium »5507« pullover ALLUDE

L I ND B E R G thintanium »5501« pullover MAURO OTTAVIANI

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LI N DB E R G thintanium »5508« pullover ALLUDE

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LIN DB E RG thintanium »5507« earrings NANNA GELLER jacket MONCLER pullover GOLDEN GOOSE pants 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

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KLAWIT T E R

[Dusseldorf]

AW I

photography E ST E LLE

sta

RAEN

ssi

»Maylin«

tio

rod

pullover CAVALLI

ir &

ke -u

IPS

pants PATRIZIA PEPE

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R AEN »Kovack« blazer B.C. BEST CONNECTIONS

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MASUNAGA »Hadar« blazer VINTAGE sweater REPLAY pants PATRIZIA PEPE boots MASSIMO DUTTI

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M AS U N AGA »GMS-804« pullover MALENE BIRGER pants SANDRO boots OFF-WHITE jewelry DIOR, MODEL’S OWN & CHRISTIANE WINK

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S I LHOUE T T E Eos View »1596« blouse MAX MARA blazer MANILA GRACE jewelry MODEL’S OWN & CHRISTIANE WINK

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SALT. »Lewis« blazer & pants MASSIMO DUTTI shirt SUPERDRY sneakers PUMA “RHUDE” jewelry MODEL’S OWN & CHRISTIANE WINK

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MC L AREN »MLSGPO07« blazer ESMARA BY HEIDI KLUM sweater ERIKA CAVALLINI trousers TWISTED TAILOR

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E I N STO F F EN »Buchbinder« blouse VINTAGE trousers BEATRICE B. jewelry MODEL’S OWN & CHRISTIANE WINK

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M A R K US T DOT MONO »L1 028« shirt HUGO BOSS pants DIESEL

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M A R K US T EASE »A1 030« shirt DIESEL blouson MASSIMO DUTTI jewelry MODEL’S OWN & CHRISTIANE WINK

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LI N DB E R G acetanium »1179« sweater ISABEL MARANT turtleneck BENETTON pants SANDRO rings MODEL’S OWN & CHRISTIANE WINK

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SPECTR

AB3277 BK & AB3323 BR I CHARMANT GmbH Europe I www.charmant.com

G ÖT T I »Pine«

G ÖTT I »Paro«

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SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

Precise additive manufacturing methods help the Dimension X series

This process allows for 3D-printing complex structures like this hinge.

conserve resources.

THE FUTURE IS NOW Götti Dimension X The GÖTTI Dimension Collection has been fascinating eyewear fans with a penchant for 3D-printed frames since launch. Now the Swiss brand is upping the ante with the Dimension X line, allowing opticians and customers to customize their frames in a straightforward and pragmatic manner. No need for extra gadgets or specialized software. How it works? Here’s brand founder Sven Götti on the new technology and the role of in-house production photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

in making it happen.

Scan to try on GÖTTI FAVRSPECS.COM

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169

How about a little extra? All models in the Dimension X collection allow for individual size adjustments – in an easy process.

Hello Sven, this year you launched the

produce 50 eyeglasses or just one. That

Name some advantages compared to other

Dimension X Collection. Collection What does Dimen-

allows us to meet the demands of our

manufacturers that offer customizable

sion generally mean for GÖTTI?

customers and offer customized sizing.

frames?

With Dimension, we’re exploring the fu-

Speaking of customization, the Dimension

One advantage is certainly the pragmatic

ture of eyewear manufacturing. Both from

X Collection is raising the bar even further.

approach without technical accessories,

a technological as well as a creative per-

In what way?

which experience has proven can nega-

spective. Due to the constantly advancing

Every single model in the GÖTTI Dimen-

tively impact results. The opticians only

industrialization of 3D-printing technology,

sion Collection can be ordered with new,

draw on their own expertise to decide in

we are literally free to evolve in every

individual parameters. As a manufacturer,

how far a frame needs to be adjusted in

Dimension, true to the name.

we don’t need to account for the physio-

order to fit a customer optimally – then

What attracted you to 3D-printing? And

logical data of the wearer. The optician

how about the key advantages?

merely sends us the deviations from the

What kind of parameters can the opticians

standard measurements.

control?

Once an eyewear frame has been programmed, it makes no difference – as

170

So ‘X’ represents...?

send us the results.

The width of the bridge, and proportio-

opposed to conventional manufacturing

X-amount of freedom and the optimal fit

nally the lens size. Or simply the width of

methods – whether you’re looking to

for your frame.

the lenses. In theory, we could manufac-

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

G ÖT TI

G ÖT T I

»Riny« & »Rady«

»Rayl« & »Raia«

ture two different-sized lenses, if reques-

Although certain models leverage some

manufacturing process. How can we

ted.

new possibilities in terms of manufactu-

imagine this technique?

Which other features support

ring, the design language seamlessly fits

With additive manufacturing, an object

customization?

into our universe. We wouldn’t have it any

is created by adding material layer by

other way.

layer. We use this term since the Dimen-

If necessary for an optimal fit, we can also manufacture the temples at the desired

What makes the manufacturing process

sion frames are created with the laser

length.

unique?

sintering method, in which a fine powder

How many models does the collection con-

First of all that we decided to realize the

is hardened. The opposite of additive

sist of overall?

manufacturing of our GÖTTI Dimension

manufacturing is subtractive manufac-

The GÖTTI Dimension Collection com-

frames entirely ‘in house’. On one hand,

turing, most prominently machining and

prises 60 models. Every single one can

that helps support local manufacturing

be ordered as a Dimension X frame in a

and offers the opportunity to constantly

customized size.

optimize our products and processes

The object, in our case an eyeglasses

right on site. This also reflects in the high-

frame, is machined from block acetate.

quality finish of our products.

Which of course requires more raw mate-

Does this collection allow for a unique design language, or does it blend seamlessly into the GÖTTI design universe?

You also mentioned that it’s an additive

metal-cutting. How does subtractive work?

rials. SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

171

Spring hinges combined with ultra-light materials create an ultra-high comfort of wear.

G ÖTT I »Runn« & »Ukkie«

That’s why additive requires less resour-

afterwards no longer be used. But this

offer great delight to wearers.

ces?

has led to a cool cooperation with the

So those customers not looking for

Yes, 3D-printing is by nature a resource-

artist Fabio Hendry (www.hotwireexten-

customized sizing can choose a ‘regular’

efficient manufacturing process. First, be-

sions.com) who now turns our residual

Dimension frame because it’s still a great

cause far less leftover material per frame

powder into pieces of art.

product?

is created. And second, because we are

How many customers are taking advantage

A Dimension X is always at the same time

highly flexible in responding to incoming

of having their frames fitted individually?

a GÖTTI Dimension without the ‘X’, me-

Naturally, it’s still our goal to make sure

aning a standard size. And you’re right,

to offer a frame right from the start in a

it’s really a great product and we have

order volumes. So 3D-printing is entirely waste free?

172

Well, regardless of what basic material is

perfect fit by covering the right standard

used in 3D-printing, it does create a sub-

sizes. Eyeglasses with customized sizing

stantial amount of residual powder that

are very similar to bespoke footwear. It’s

collects near the melting points and can

the exception, but with the potential to

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

grown quite proud of it. Thank you, Sven. www.gotti.ch

MODELL: J8017-1

JOSHI - EYEWEAR.COM

N AT HALI E B L A N C PA RIS

Modern chic in a photo shoot inside a Parisian palace.

»Juliette«

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TWO STEPS FORWARD

All New At Maison Nathalie Blanc

SPECTR // BEHIND THE SCENES

French star designer Nathalie Blanc is revamping her company. Under the umbrella of MAISON NATHALIE BLANC, she is now launching collections for a diverse range of different customers

Scan to try on NATHALIE BLANC

through the sub labels Nathalie Blanc Paris, Monsieur Blanc and Blanc. This restructuring is accompanied by a new campaign focused on the artistic orientation of the Paris-based eyewear

FAVRSPECS.COM

label. In conversation with SPECTR, Nathalie allows a glimpse into the new collections and

photos NATHALIE BLANC

provides insights about the new campaign.

Hi Nathalie, there have been some changes

stronger identity.

at your company over the last year. NATHA-

Besides the different customer segments,

LIE BLANC has become MAISON NATHALIE

how do the individual collections differen-

BLANC. Why?

tiate?

MAISON NATHALIE BLANC brings toge-

Men’s collections are very difficult to

ther three collections: Nathalie Blanc

draw because the line must be pure and

Paris for women, Blanc for teenagers and the new brand Monsieur Blanc, created last year.

M O N S I E U R B LAN C »Jean«

Why “Maison”?

simple. That fancy and daring trait that makes a frame original is usually found in the women’s collection, not so much adequate for the men’s. The men’s collection

Because I like the word “Maison”! It means

calls more for materials and silhouettes,

home because for me it is synonymous

as well as technique.

with family work, exchange and pooling

What is special about designing eyewear

and sharing of experiences.

for teenagers?

Was it a problem to sell your frames to men

Teenagers do not like products that are

under the label NATHALIE BLANC?

too creative, they rather like products

It’s true, some men were slowed down by

more fashionable. And fashion changes

the feminine name of the brand Nathalie

very quickly among teenagers. It can go

Blanc Paris.

from a very small sunglasses frame to a With the Monsieur Blanc collection, it’s now clearer. Especially Americans love the name Monsieur Blanc. And why a special line for young adults? We needed a collection at a reasonable price for teenagers and young adults. Generally speaking, the choice is very limited in this segment, and the models are the same in too many cases. Therefore I wanted to create a trendy and fashionable brand for millennials. What advantages do you see in working with independent lines? Working on differentiated collections for men, women, and teenagers allows me to

BLAN C

immerse myself entirely in each universe.

N AT HALI E B L A N C PA RIS

»Georges«

That way I can go further into persona-

»Jeanne«

lizing each collection and give each a

SPECTR // BEHIND THE SCENES

175

huge one in just one season. Does this new brand segmentation also affect your organization and sales structures? The idea is not to mix the three entities. Therefore, for each brand and sectors, we took different agents. Recently you said that your brands are mistakenly classified as “classic”, but that you see yourselves differently? My creations are both classic and daring!

B L AN C »Sabra«

They are original pieces. I create my own color combinations from acetate. Even if the lines seem classic for some, they are

Collabs with stores, artists, designers are

actually very innovative because they

common. Co-operations with other brands

offer singular or never seen drawings. For

are rather rare. Why are you so open about

instance, my inverted nose, a real signa-

it?

ture of my brand today. This Parisian chic

We do not grow in withdrawal and con-

constantly flirts with these two notions:

finement. My collaboration with Shelter

the timeless classic and creativity. It is a

has led us to overcome technical difficul-

perpetual back-and-forth movement.

ties and to invent new lines together. It is

Does your new campaign shoot also play

a wonderful adventure!

with this duality?

Do you have more collabs in the pipeline?

Our new campaign marks a real turning point for the MAISON NATHALIE BLANC brands. We worked with extraordinary artists, and it reflects on the quality of the photos and the style. It is a colorful and Parisian chic countryside, shot in a large Parisian palace.

MO N SIEUR BLANC »Thomas«

We’ll have a collaboration with Nicolas We know that you are quite open to colla-

Ouchenir, the wonderful calligrapher. I am

borations. In September you will launch

very proud to work with him.

two new collabs, can you share with whom? We have a collaboration with Shelter for

Sounds interesting, Nathalie. Good luck with all that.

wooden glasses and collaborate with Edgard Opticiens.

www.nathalieblancparis.com

Tell us a little bit about the collab with

N AT HALI E B LANC X S H E LT E R

Edgard? Edgard

»Hector«

Edgard asked me to draw an acetate frame with my inverted bridge. We were given free rein to use our imagination. It was not easy, but the result is striking. I am very proud of that. I was very flattered that the Edgard group approached me about this project. Why did you choose Shelter and what does the collab entail? Shelter brings together daring young designers who have brought wood up to date. We took two iconic models from my collection – the »Suzanne« and the

176

SPECTR // BEHIND THE SCENES

»Auguste« - and we dressed them in

In the collabo with Shelter Nathalie designs

wood. The results are infinitely elegant.

glasses made of wood for the first time.

Scan to try on METROPOLITAN FAVRSPECS.COM

M E TROP OL I TAN »8106«

»8105«

BLOCK TITANIUM FROM BAVARIA Metropolitan Launches First Titanium Frames

Starting this season, the optical industry is welcoming titanium eyewear Avant-garde titanium designs:

‘Made in Bavaria’. That’s because German label METROPOLITAN is relea-

METROPOLITAN strikes with new material.

sing its first collection crafted from the ‘material of the gods’. In the process, the design-driven label once again proves that clean design and striking form language are no longer exclusive. The frames are machined from block titanium and feature subtle facets. Also geometric cuts and edges, as demonstrated by the feminine »8105« style and its male counterpart, the »8106«. As for the perfect wearer for these design highlights, the women’s model does require some degree of self-confidence. The lens shape offers a creative take on basic cat eye spectacles, yet without appearing overbearingly playful, but rather modern and avant-garde. The 3D-indentations in

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

the bridge and temples also add to the overall depth of detail, alongside the embossed METROPOLITAN logo. In the same vein, the men’s style impresses with a modern and unique form language that is far from conventional. But what about recognizable METROPOLITAN features? Look no further than the brand’s understated one-piece temples featured prominently in these two styles. In terms of color palette, these new titanium beauties walk the line between black, lavender, mint and gray for a look that is bound to appeal to today’s urbanites who appreciate design and quality. Solid! www.metropolitan-eyewear.com S P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

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»Grade Five«

top ZARA

hat STYLIST’S OWN

ØRGREEN

»Delta Wing«

dress ASOS

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SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

photography U LR I CH HART M AN N styling JENNIFER MERTENS, hair & make up TINA PACHTA, models LOU FIDES at IZAIO & MARIEE at MIRRRS

Ø RG R EEN

INNOVATION

Ørgreen Quantum High Collection

Known for masterfully executed titanium frames, Scandinavian eyewear brand ØRGREEN cultivates a recognizable design language, colorways, and choice of materials. But it has also proven its ability to innovate: So when the Copenhagen-based label introduced its Quantum Collection of 3D-printed frames, the eyewear world paid close attention. Now the story continues, as ØRGREEN intro-

duces the style-driven Quantum High Collection. For the inside perspective, SPECTR talks to Frederic Lassalle, new Head of Design at ØRGREEN OPTICS. Before joining the

brand in 2020, the French designer who holds an Industrial Design degree and Masters of Fashion Design has designed eyewear for the likes of Dior, Hackett, Scotch & Soda, and more. Accompanied by mood photography from Ulrich Hartmann and team, this is truly a ‘High’ Fashion Collection Shoot.

Frederic, what was the initial idea behind the Quantum line? Quantum 1.0 was a strategic opportunity for ØRGREEN to set a precedent: Mark

their footprint into the future eyewear landscape as one of the first 3D-printed eyewear players. Combined with ØRGREEN’s trademark material – Japa-

ØRGREEN

nese titanium – and a bespoke range

»Cargo-Bay«

of color stories, Quantum embodies our

goal to challenge traditions of eyewear

outfit DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

design whilst offering the highest hand-

hat & OTHER STORIES

crafted quality.

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ØRGREEN »Twice Elliptic« jumpsuit FREE PEOPLE

ØRG RE EN »Twice Elliptic« dress & OTHER STORIES

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ØRGREEN »Star Tracer« blazer RECLAIMED dress MAX MARA

What are the advantages when it comes to 3D-printing? 3D-printing is the future of manufacturing and highly efficient and sustainable. It’s one of the innovations we count on to make ØRGREEN products greener than ever. In terms of design, 3D-printing and

ØRGREEN »T-Minus« dress MARC CAIN

modeling unlock an all-new design vocabulary for creators… a bit like going from black and white to color TV. In terms of the product itself, polyamide and titanium combine to provide superior strength, ultra-lightness and unbelievable comfort. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

181

This year you evolved the line into Quan-

the wearer incredible lightness of the po-

tum High. High What’s new?

lyamide material and unbeatable comfort.

Quantum High is our reboot of this 3D-

On this first release, we explored a “neon

printed concept. Taking the best of what

lights lines” story. We apply a matted pop

we’ve learned with the first line, we serve

color palette to the titanium temples and

our vision of lightness. We pushed the

muted soft silicone end tips. These color-

minimalism to its purest expression. We

ways give strength and life to the frames,

go to the limits of the materials with an

without overpowering the overall look.

elegant 3D-printed silhouette, sculpted at the thinnest and lightest, with different profile details per gender. This provides

182

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

www.orgreenoptics.com

Ø R GRE E N »Cube Eight« outfit DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

PARIS

Nathalie Blanc

ass ista nt SIM ON EM EIE R,

sty ling MI MI KR TIN IC,

ha ir & ma ke -u AM

pT AR AS AU E R,

mo de

l LA

BA TO S

photography RAC H EL

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JIAM [Berlin]

M ORE L »20113K« dress TASSEL TALES jewelry AKIND shoes THE ROW

SPECTR

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F LE Y E »Sonja« sweater & skirt JOSEPH shoes MANGO earrings MISSOMA

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SPECTR

FL E YE »Jesta« sweater & skirt JOSEPH shoes MANGO

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G ÖT TI »EF01« dress UTERQÜE jewelry AKIND

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BLACKFIN »Danzica« trousers TASSEL TALES bag JULIA SKERGETH jewelry AKIND

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M E T ROP OL ITA N »8268« coat JOSEPH earrings MISSOMA

190

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METRO P OLITAN »8105« top & trousers TASSEL TALES earrings MISSOMA shoes THE ROW

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KOB E RG »KT 6047« dress TASSEL TALES earrings MISSOMA

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JOS H I »8005« jumpsuit UTERQÜE jewelry AKIND

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LI N DB E RG n.o.w. titanium »6604« blazer & bralette JOSEPH trousers TASSEL TALES earrings MISSOMA shoes THE ROW

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SPECTR

SILMO | Booth C101 | Hall 5a europe@modo.com | eco-eyewear.com

Shift the story

DONGUS

ALIBA, hai r & make-u photo assi p NICOLA stants CAR WEIDEMA O ROSS & NN, m o d e MEIKE PR l HANNA at ECKEL IZAIO,

NIBALL S

photograp hy S T E F AN styling HA

SNEAK PEEK

P + US E YE W E A R Combo Series & Deluxe Horn Series blazer MASSIMO DUTTI top ZARA trousers OYSHO

Hanna Goldfisch For P+us Eyewear We were close to wrapping up this issue of SPECTR, but ramped up

The casting for the campaign photo shoot is also a match made in

our flashlight generators one more time for the new campaign photo

heaven. Hanna Fischer aka Hanna Goldfisch seems predestined or

shoot for P+US EYEWEAR. It’s worth it! Especially because the new

bringing the delicate new styles by P+US EYEWEAR to life. Although

frame styles are so fresh, they have yet to receive their model names.

Hanna moves with playful ease in front of the camera, she is a tho-

With that said, here’s a first sneak peek at what’s in store!

roughbred professional in a league of her own in the model universe.

P+US EYEWEAR makes a strong statement with patented features

Why? Because all her gestures and poses are on point – and always

and slim designs made in Hong Kong. The various collections imple-

authentic. Anyone who’s ever tried their luck in front of the camera

ment high-grade materials such as stainless steel, titanium, acetate,

knows how much it takes. What’s more, Hanna possesses the kinds of

and buffalo horn. In our photo shoot, we’re showcasing milestones

gentle facial features that are ideal for making eyewear look striking.

from three collections: The Zero series revolves around featherlight

And her self-confident and cheeky attitude make her the perfect fit

stainless-steel frames with screwless hinges. The Combo collection

for an eyewear label with the same kind of vibe. Hanna Goldfisch

dazzles with delicate, finely appointed blends of materials. And the

appears courtesy of Izaio Agency.

Deluxe Horn line is dedicated to natural horn frames with a unique,

www.pluseyewear.com

one-of-a-kind grain structure in each model. SPECTR // SNEAK PEEK

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P + U S EY E WEA R Zero Series blouse UNIQLO trousers EDITED sneakers CONVERSE

SPECTR // SNEAK PEEK

199

P+US EYEWEAR Combo Series top VERO MODA trousers COS

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SPECTR // SNEAK PEEK

Scan to try on FACE A FACE

PLAYING WITH SHAPE AND COLOR New Face A Face Styles

FAVRSPECS.COM

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

One of the style leaders among French eyewear brands is upping the ante this season in terms of creative shapes and colorways: FACE A FACE, the Paris-based label led by Creative Head Pascal Jaulent presents a new selection that is bound to turn heads. Other brands may be looking for understated styles – but not FACE A FACE! Here, Pascal Jaulent speaks in our SPECTR product update about key pieces

from the new collection... www.faceafaceparis.com

»Neonn 1«

FAC E A FAC E »Bocca Bloom 1«

FAC E A FACE »Zenit 1«

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»Witty 2«

BOCCA BLOOM

“An ever more innovative vision of geometric nature is embodied in the new design of the iconic »Bocca«: The lenses of this pretty-shaped acetate frame evoke the birth of a diminutive bud in full bloom. The shape offers a playful take on transparencies. The »Bocca« is Art Deco and sensuality reinvented.” NEONN

“The »Neonn« is a daring hybrid frame made from titanium and betatitanium. This masculine design is the result of a new color application technique: neon is embedded between two dark flats, resembling the light of an eclipse. This method lends an enticing look to the upscale de-

WITTY

sign of this square panto

“Full of spirit, light and

shape and creates a

personality, the »Witty«

luminous halo effect.

cultivates boldness and

Precious and masculine!”

vitality. Just like an impertinent ray of sunshine, color-light penetrates the acetate frame with its integrated flex hinges. A colored groove highlights and gives volume to the frame. Two colors collide ZENIT

“The »Zenit« range is illuminated by the color-light of the midday sun. Expressive

and react vibrantly, making the glasses as lively as they are balanced.”

and colorful minimalism emerges from this elegant feminine design crafted from titanium. Strong contrasting color covers the thick edge of the upper arch, thereby creating a counter perspective. Poetry and metamorphosis in ascendance.”

S P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

203

MODO »7047«

»7050«

»7049«

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S P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

MODO represents more than just elegant understatement. In the new collection, the brand dazzles with expressive designs.

GOING BOLD

Modo Launches Strong Expression Pieces MODO has built a reputation for minimalism

MODO is launching a series of styles that meet

with a sure hand for style. The brand with

this mark: The existing collection of rather

offices in New York, Milan, Stockholm also

delicate styles is expanded with a series of

enjoys a loyal following for its lightweight and

rather bold and fashion-forward pieces. What

fashionable titanium frames. In this segment,

remains the same is the signature choice of

MODO has earned a prominent position with

MODO materials such as titanium and R1000.

successful collections over the past few years.

The result sure makes a strong impression:

As a label with an office in Milan, it’s Scan to try on MODO FAVRSPECS.COM

Boasting impactful colors, material thickness

almost inevitable to also design eyewear

and on-trend shapes, it’s an international style

frames with the level of fashion appeal to

statement from a cosmopolitan player who

match the Italian fashion capital. So now

gets it right.

www.modo.com S P E C T R / / P R O D U C T U P DAT E

205

tou

IN MU OB RP ER HY EN , DE R

photography SAB I N E

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SPECTR

MI ND CHÈ LE A& RO JUNK SM ER AR , Y a hair & tM UN m a k e-u ICH M O p GA YE DE LS HIE ,L TT AU Ea RE N A t BIG UE OU RB DI AC u H a sing tA CH -M AN ARLO AG TT ET EM ILB EN T, r UR e Y

sty ls A ling

ØRG RE EN

»Aries«

turtleneck WOLFORD

pants VINCE

LI E WALD [Ibiza]

ØRG RE EN »Lyra« top JONATHAN SIMKHAI

SPECTR

207

N I RVAN JAVA N Shades of Rome »Remus« top H&M pants CLOSED

208

SPECTR

N I RVA N JAVA N Shades of Rome »03:02:05 (CET)« blouse JOSEPH earrings SOMINI + MADEWELL

SPECTR

209

LI ND B E R G sun titanium »8908« dress ZARA

210

SPECTR

E I N STOFFE N »Spion« jacket GIANNI top OYSHO

SPECTR

211

MARC O’ P OLO »506185« bra LA PERLA VINTAGE skirt HALSTON VINTAGE

212

SPECTR

M AR C O’ P OLO »506188« blouse SECONDELLA

SPECTR

213

HE N RY J U L L IE N »HJCEZANNE03S« blazer ASCENO jewelry SOMINI + MADEWELL

214

SPECTR

SCOTCH & SO DA »Holly« top MANGO pants J.BRAND

SPECTR

215

N AT HALI E B L A N C PA RIS »Emilie« dress STYLIST’S OWN

216

SPECTR