SPECTR Issue 35 by Monday Publishing GmbH

No. 35 // May 2022 // English // EUR 15,–

SPECTR International Eyewear Fashion Magazine

BLACKFIN »Pebble Beach«

»Eagle Head«

BLACKFIN »Wilmington «

»Myrtle«

Since 1998, Götti glasses have unified traditional craftsmanship with technical innovations at the highest level. It is an unequivocal expression of stylistic confidence, quality, and Swissness. Götti Perspective OR2, RR01 and Eyewear Chain CP04 Götti Switzerland contact@gotti.ch T+41 44 782 60 47 gotti.ch

S U S TA I N A B L E E Y E W E A R . H A N D M A D E I N G E R M A N Y. THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1978.

@HOFFMANNEYEWEAR | HOFFMANN-EYEWEAR.COM

faceaface-paris.com / NIGHT2 col.3003 - NIGHT1 col.3209

TORO #SEETHEWORLD

ONTO

gigistudios.com

Recycled & Sustainable

PAT R IC K DEMP SE Y

WEARING THE

P’8937 SUNGLASSES

T EN NT

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S P E C T R // C O N T E N T

EDITOR IN CHIEF STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817 LAYOUT CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com EDITORIAL STAFF MEIKE PRECKEL [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com PROOFREADING INSA MUTH [Dortmund] PETER ASHFORD [London] FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] TRANSLATION DIRK VOGEL [Chicago]

RINT

ONLINE EDITOR FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]

BLACKFIN »Palm Cove« “Smooth Operator” by Ulrich Hartmann (pages 72–76)

online@spectr-magazine.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS

DIANE BETTIES [Berlin] MARKUS BURKE [Munich] JANA EDISONGA [Berlin] WILLIAM FERCHICHI [London] JESSICA GROSSMANN [Berlin] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich] PHILIPP KÖHLER [Berlin] NARÈNTE [Sardinia] NOCERA & FERRI [London] HANIBALL SALIBA [Berlin] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf] MAXINE VAN ENDERT [Berlin]

COVER PHOTOS photography ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] assistant SOPHIE SCHWARZENBERGER styling VIRGINIA KRAUSE hair & make-up JANETTE PETERS models DORA FRANZ at IZAIO & KOBE BOATENG at KULTMODELS

S P E C T R // I M P R I N T

IMP SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

PUBLISHER MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln, Deutschland t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com CEOS STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK PRINT F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg, Deutschland fw-medien.de

ECO »Citrine« & »Adelia« blouse MAJE

SPECTR

MYSELF TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich] styling SIGI BRETTNER hair & make-up BIANCA BEH model JULIA STEGE at MODELWERK booking CHRISTIAN KÖLLER at MODELWERK

photography SACHA

SPECTR

RAEN »Nikol« turtleneck COMMA blazer ESQUALO

SPECTR

ALAIN MIKLI »Elinetta Sun« -

blazer RACHEL pullover & pants MANGO

SPECTR

ETNIA BARCELONA »Raval« blouse & OTHER STORIES

ETNIA BARCELONA »Alguer« -

blouse & boots EDITED pullover HALLHUBER blazer ZARA pants SEE BY CHLOÉ 52

SPECTR

NEUBAU »Xenon« blouse NORA & OLIVIA pants VOYAGE COUTURE

NEUBAU »Walter & Wassily« dress MAJE 54

SPECTR

LOOL »Spire Sun« blouse WEYHE

SPECTR

EINSTOFFEN »Tausendsassa« dress & OTHER STORIES pullover ZARA

SPECTR

OLIVER PEOPLES »Dejeanne« blouse RACHEL dress HOUSE OF LONDON

SPECTR

CAZAL »MOD 677«

CAZAL »MOD 668/3« blouse IVY & OAK pullover PATRIZIA PEPE

SPECTR

WEL COME TO ISSUE #35

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

DON’T CHANGE The world is changing. Constantly! Which has its good sides, but also some not-so-good sides. Over the past two years, the pace of change has surely felt accelerated. Aside from technical innovations the social and political changes have happened on an enormous scale. But through it all, humans are creatures of habit and long for some consistency in their lives. That’s why we would like to make a humble contribution to continuity with this issue of

SPECTR by once again showcasing the latest eyewear styles from the world’s best eyewear designers. So it’s a bit of business as usual: DON’T CHANGE! Behind the scenes, our industry is also moving at a dramatic clip: Consolidation of power, new materials, novel manufacturing methods, digital transformation, artificial intelligence, Virtual Try-On and much more… Rapid technical innovation is afoot in the eyewear business and the changes wait for nobody. This also a field where we like to make a contribution: Our digital platform, FAVR, provides independent opticians with a chance to match with savvy consumers online. So yes, there’s also CHANGE in this issue! Helping you ease into issue 35 of SPECTR, we’re starting things off with a still life shoot of select new releases. We hope that you enjoy our selection and have fun browsing, scanning, and trying on new styles. And what remains unchanged, of course, is always our passion for eyewear. SD

SPECTR // EDITORIAL

»Rollergirl« -

Especially for the female fans of EINSTOFFEN, the Swiss brand released this catchy cat eye model. »Rollergirl« cruises along in seven fun colorways in a blend of soft understatement and confident star appeal. Because style matters in the roller disco!

»Tausendsassa« -

True to its name, the round »Tausendsassa« (“The Jack-of-allTrades”) frame can do everything! Characteristic diagonal Havana patterns and fine wooden inlays in the temples are bound to garner attention and envious looks. Classic, not boring!

N E FF

»Schlawiner« -

The »Schlawiner« (“Smooth Operator”)

O T S

blends wood and acetate elements in a harmonious manner. Plus, the purist yet innovative panto-shape is perfectly designed as the ideal complement to the gradient lenses.

N I E

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

»K 三 Madison« -

Stylish men’s frame is an all-metal construction and refined form language. The rounded square frame creates a balanced appearance, while MASUNAGA is apparent on all levels.

»K 三 Ceres« -

The »Ceres« model shines with engraved arabesque patterns on both front and back. The model from the MASUNAGA | K三 is a reflection of premium craftsmanship incorporating beautiful vintage elements.

»K 三 Stratus«

A G A

Stylish all titanium model with

N U AS

pressed top bar, in a frame constructed from 0.6 mm betatitanium sheet. The contrast between elements is a significant design feature. Integrating the rim-locks with the bridge keeps the overall design clean and sharp.

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

»The Consultant I« -

Classic and stylish full-rim shape crafted from genuine natural horn. For that upscale touch, »The Consultant I« features striking 3D MAYBACH Double-M logos on the temples. Palladium-plated titanium takes the frame into luxury territory.

MAY

BAC

»The Dean I« -

A Clubmaster frame in vintage style with an official intense brow line. Lightweight lower rims in genuine 22K gold-plated titanium join with aerodynamic cut-outs on the end-pieces and temples for a dynamic look.

»The Idealist I« -

Rimless frame with clean lines and eye-catching aerodynamic cut-outs on the bridge and end-pieces. This understated rimless style owes its self-confident appeal to palladiumplated titanium and black Italian acetate, supported by classy

EYE

MAYBACH Double-M logos.

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

NIR VA N

SHADES OF TORONTO »01:04:03 (EST)«

JAV AN

Confident large-size model that tints the horizon behind the skyline of Toronto in soft yellow. Despite the bold shape, the harmonious color gradient makes for a lofty, wearable frame.

SHADES OF TORONTO »03:14:05 (EST)« -

The »03:14:05« embodies the Canadian metropolis with its glass facades and modern architecture. Again, tinted lenses in blue-purple provide a flavorful counterpoint to the transparent frame.

SHADES OF TORONTO »02:16:07 (EST)« -

The color palette of the »02:16:07« mirrors Lake Ontario outside Toronto. This transparent frame with tinted lenses, both rendered in green, adds a nice sense of warmth to the brisk landscape way up North.

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

»Berwick« -

This iconic OG aviator style was originally designed in 1979. The »Berwick« was one of the brand’s most celebrated styles upon release, with a list of celebrity fans including Princess Diana and Prince Charles. The re-release still packs a style statement!

»Kari« -

This daring model evokes the soul and energy of the hip 1970s and the women who used to wear it. The beautiful arched frames dazzle with strong, classic colorways for

D L O G

never gets old.

H T I SM

that cool feminine look that

V I L

»Yatton« -

Did you know? The Winter Sun Collection, including the »Yatton« model with its tinted lenses, was already designed in 1969. The goal was to add some vivid color to drab winter days. Today, they can even be used to ease the strain on eyes from digital devices. S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

»Cleese« -

The »Cleese« presents an evolution of the brand’s square-fitting Modern Classics. With a wider fit, flattened brow line, and a thicker acetate design this style lends a masculine appearance.

»Nevill« -

Super clean and ultra-lightweight, »Nevill« is built for anyone who wants a bit of colorful minimalism. Thin rims and temples make the sleek panto frame extra comfortable.

»Bluth« -

Equipped with premium triple-dot hardware and a strong acetate frame, the »Bluth« is a remarkably wearable frame that balances comfort and classic style. The resulting frame is sharp, smart, and undeniably timeless.

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

RAE

»Ayo« -

A VERONIKA WILDGRUBER design gets no

more typical than the »Ayo«. The architectural frame blends two intertwined volumes into

NIK

one. Best of all, the effect is subtle due to similarities in material and colors, so it pays

to look twice.

»Darko« -

A graphic-inspired frame playing on extreme contrasts. Deep black, shiny bridge resting on a bright, transparent frame. Polarized glasses elevate the classic frame shape into an avant-garde statement piece.

»Loki« -

The »Loki« required two years of design development – and it shows! The innovative aviator unisex model makes a statement with a never-before-seen bridge shape, creating the illusion of an endless loop.

S P E C T R / / FAV R U P DAT E

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

» Ke

id«

SPANISH MINIMALIST EYEWEAR STYLE »Ne

INTERVIEW WITH LOOL FOUNDER DAVID SOLIVA Although LOOL ranges among the rather young brands in the optical industry, the finishes and innovative product details are top-notch. That’s because the Spanish brand follows the time-honored creed ‘less is more’. This design DNA is palpable throughout the product offering of the brand that joined the Etnia Eyewear Culture Group in mid-2021. And did we mention that the chic frames are also exceptionally lightweight? Time to get the details in our interview with David Soliva, LOOL DNA owner.

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

»Iza

r«

ri S un«

What is the philosophy behind LOOL? ‘Less, but better,’ as Dieter Rams used to say. Under this premise we pursue the search for beautiful, timeless designs and materials that last over time. We always use as few raw materials as possible. We have a clear commitment to our customers, top quality, premium service, and affordable price. At first glance, the brand’s name LOOL seems quite unusual. You even stylize it as a graphic derivation. What’s the story? Following the same logic as our philosophy, we considered that our name and

Many, because it allows us to work with

elements we built a logo and a name,

other constructions, combinations with

which in the end is still a pair of glasses.

mixed materials. We must continue to

If someone had to draw a pair of glasses

implement other materials and complete

reduced to its minimum expression, it

Hello David, when did you start LOOL?

Which possibilities arise from the material?

logo should represent simplicity. With two

our offer.

would boil down to two elements, a rod

LOOL models leave a high-quality haptic

and a circle. From this impulse, looking

impression. Do you work with special

for the essential, we arrived at LOOL.

finishing processes?

Is there a design language specific to

We work a lot on the finishing and are

LOOL?

very demanding in all the processes.

Our approach to product design is

Currently we use two main coatings: PVD

influenced by the great European design

and premium lacquers. PVD is a very

schools. We believe that functionality is

technical coating that lends the piece

LOOL was created in Barcelona back in

above form, and that our concepts should

an extreme resistance both in terms of

2016.

express their essence through minimalist

color and hardness. The lacquers are of

design.

the highest quality and achieve excellent

What was the initial spark for the creation of a new eyewear label?

You are particularly proud of the low

LOOL eyewear was born by chance

weight of the glasses. How do you achieve

during a meeting with friends from the

that?

adhesion to the components, thanks to a process we carry out prior to application. Talking about lacquers, is there a specific

optical sector. We were discussing some

Getting to 4 grams in the new construc-

issues in some existing collections when

tion made of our Cromalyt material and

it comes to assembling and disassem-

beta titanium was not easy. It is the

bling frame components. Like assembling

result of teamwork, and the search and

the lenses, the need for specific tools,

research of materials that allowed us to

The addition of LOOL to the Etnia Eye-

and so on. And how with the passing of

lighten the structure and weight, all while

wear Culture Group portfolio has given

time and wear on glasses, they lose ten-

increasing strength and durability.

us another perspective on colors. The

sion or effectiveness in the opening and

Why is the low weight important to you?

color world for LOOL? We really like intense colors like orange, red, blue… but the best is yet to come. In what sense?

company works like nobody else, and we

closing of the rods. This was something

Because it is important to our customers

have specialists dedicated exclusively to

that, in my opinion, should never happen

who are looking for beautiful, comforta-

color. I believe that little by little we are

in products at this quality and price.

ble, and light glasses that they don’t even

going to see LOOL become a reference in

Where did you go from there?

notice while wearing them.

its segment thanks to color.

Together with an industrial designer

You mentioned materials research, which

On that note, since when has LOOL been

we started to investigate how we could

one stands out for you?

Etnia? part of Etnia LOOL was acquired by Etnia Barcelona in

solve all these issues. Thanks to this

Mainly steel, specifically Sandvik 11r51.

research we designed a patented hinge,

Just recently, we celebrated a new launch

called the hub, which inspires our entire

with our material Cromalyt, an evolution

Looking beyond the frame construction,

business model based on simplicity and

that gives us extreme resistance and

a pair of glasses is only as good as the

functionality.

maximum lightness.

lenses.

June 2021.

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

LOOL » Ra m «

»Poly«

»Aura« High-tech materials and finishes unlock featherlight frames.

With these values in mind, who is your typical customer? Customers who are looking for a comfortable, quality product and who value design. As for our optical customers, mainly I totally agree. That’s why we use Carl

people who are looking for differentiation,

Zeiss sunglass lenses in our glasses,

without losing the premium service and

which guarantee the best visual quality

safety offered by the Etnia Eyewear

and UV protection. They also incorporate

Now that you’re part of the family, what’s

to avoid internal reflections.

the next step for LOOL?

How do you segment your offering? At the moment there are three concepts: Tectonic, Stereotomic and Deco. What is special about these collections?

The next step for LOOL is to evolve our Cromalyt material in all collections. Where do you see your main focus in the next few years?

Tectonic is our most minimalist collection.

Over the next few years, we are going to

With beautiful and timeless designs and

focus on the opticians. We want to work

colors, made for everyone. Deco is our

with them to develop better products for

most sophisticated and art deco-inspired

our new collections. The optician is at the

collection. Stereotomic represents our

center of our entire project!

most avant-garde collection, where we

Same here, David. Thanks for the

want to show our passion for design and

interview.

innovation. 70

Culture Group.

anti-reflective coatings on the inner side

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

www.looleyewear.com

styling VIRGINIA KRAUSE hair & make-up JANETTE PETERS models KOBE BOATENG at KULTMODELS, DORA FRANZ at IZAIO & “DRAMA” THE CAT

photography ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] assistant SOPHIE SCHWARZENBERGER

Sun »Pebble Beach«

blazer KARO KAUER

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Virtually try on BLACKFIN

SMOOTH OPERATOR

FAVRSPECS.COM

BLACKFIN 2022 HIGHLIGHTS Italian brand BLACKFIN not only scored a Collection Shoot in this issue, but also supplied the star products for the SPECTR cover. It’s well earned,

because the designer label represents technical innovation and constant creativity like no other. The new company headquarters, the Black Shelter, symbolizes the progressive DNA of the premium manufacturer from South Tyrol. BLACKFIN walks a fine line between tradition and modernity; between technology and fashion. What’s more, the label does not picture these spheres as exclusive – BLACKFIN exists at their intersection. It’s summarized in the company slogan Neomadeinitaly that serves as a daily motivation in the Italian town of Agordo.

BLACKFIN Sun »Eagle Head« shirt KILIAN KERNER hat TOMMY HILFIGER SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

BLACKFIN One »Wilmington « -

One »Myrtle«

shirt BOSS sweater vest MARC O’POLO hat ONLY & SONS

shirt POLO RALPH LAUREN blazer MARCEL OSTERTAG

One »Wells« -

blouse STEFFEN SCHAUT 74

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

The common denominator across all collections is

designs. Made of pure titanium, adorned with a

the label’s mastery of titanium. Titanium is part of

sense of uniqueness via hand-picked colorways.

a belief system at BLACKFIN. To a point where the

Speaking of colors, BLACKFIN designers can draw

entire company ethos is based on the lightweight

from a wide range of options thanks to the label’s

material, which the Italians source exclusively

proprietary dyeing processes.

from Japan. The masterful processing of titanium

Next up, the Razor collection takes the advan-

has now become second nature to BLACKFIN. As

tages of titanium to the next level in even slimmer

a result, the label is able to handcraft extremely

and lighter frames. Crafted from 1 mm titanium, the

lightweight frames with high-value designs. In this

models are manufactured using special micro-

issue’s photo shoot, we focus on new models from

mechanical processes. As an added feature, the

the One, Razor and Sun collections.

new, one-piece hinge once again exemplifies

Starting with One, it’s the main collection that

the unique blend between function and design.

subsumes the essence of the brand. One revol-

The Razor collection renders classic and timeless

ves around frames with modern and geometric

shapes in a modern design accentuated by an

Razor »Gold Coast« coat JAYLEY

BLACKFIN Razor »Port Douglas« shirt NIKE sweater vest ANISTON hat TOMMY HILFIGER

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Sun »Palm Cove« -

vest REBEKKA RUÉTZ pants SAMSØE & SAMSØE

BLACKFIN Sun »Zen« -

shirt ZIGN pants KILIAN KERNER

extensive color palette: from luminous hues to shiny gold and deep black, BLACKFIN showcases titanium in all its variations. Because this is our summer issue, sunglasses are a must-have. With this in mind, the Sun collection echoes the stylistic signature of the One line as a direct link to the core concept behind BLACKFIN. But with added sun protection! Plus, the daring shapes and progressive forms of the sun line go beyond the design parameters of their optical counterparts. This becomes obvious by looking at standouts like the feminine »Palm Cove« and the unisex style »Zen« that grace this issue’s threepage cover. We call it Neomadeinitaly with a special twist. Or in this case, ready for summer! www.blackfin.eu 76

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

T U S O R B A LO ND U O A L C S S E N I A C R T EN C

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

MARKUS T »MIO P1022«

MARKUS T »MIO P1025«

MARKUS T NEW MIO COLLECTION

Virtually try on MARKUS T FAVRSPECS.COM

German designer brand MARKUS T launches the MIO collection as the latest eyewear offering for 2022. MIO represents a direct continuation of previous MARKUS T collections, marked by outstanding technical features and the brand’s signature quality in terms of materials and workmanship. Standout features include a play on colors and translucencies, lending a special sense of lightness to the new models. Head designer Markus Temming sheds more light in our SPECTR interview.

Hello Markus, who coined the

Speaking of design, what are

quote “In nature, light creates

the special features of these MIO

the color”?

frames?

That’s from the painter Hans

The optimism and lightness

Hofmann (†1966), known as

of a MIO frame are not only

a pioneer of Abstract Ex-

visually striking, but also

pressionism who blended

tangible. The models start at

vivid colors with definite form

a frame weight of 5 grams,

language. That’s a great fit for

which makes them absolute lightweights.

what we do, especially this

Nevertheless, the glasses are sur-

new collection.

prisingly robust. What’s the key?

Which explains using the quote as the slogan for your MIO

MIO once again implements

Collection. What role do you Collection

one of our favorite materials:

attribute to light and colors?

premium titanium and our

The spectrum of sunlight

lightweight polymer TMi. But

creates special hues and pro-

the materials are only the foun-

vided the inspiration for the

dation for creating a reliable

new collection. Translucent

eyeglass frame, which must be

colors that shine confidently

able to withstand a lot in eve-

depending on the mood of

ryday life. As always, we have

the light and at the same time

also paid special attention to

adapt to their surroundings in

the technology. In order to

a very natural and restrained way.

Translucent materials create a super light impression.

What made the new collections particularly suited for this theme? MIO makes an optimistic statement with its hand-picked color

create the perfect frame, intelligent technology needs to be supported by factors such

as easy glazing and fitting by an optician. MIO? Which typical MARKUS T features can we look forward to in MIO

range. Light, sun, color, nature slowly reawakening – all of these

Aside from our favorite materials, titanium and TMi, and the low

factors played into choosing the collection’s theme. MARKUS T

frame weights, we also rely on a sophisticated and precise hinge

frames are characterized by intelligent technology, which we

technology for the MIO line. This one works with a plug-in connec-

choose not to hide. With MIO, the focus is on shapes and colors.

tion. Screwless, as always.

But, as always, technology plays the key role in the new collection. MIO? What are the origins of the collection name MIO

What made TMi such a convincing choice for the line? Our TMi material is practically unbreakable but flexible enough to manufacture center parts that can be conveniently glazed by

“Mio” is derived from Japanese and means “beauty of the cherry

the optician. In the MIO collection, we implement a special blend

blossom”. We also took inspiration from nature. Out of a pool of

of TMi. It creates a translucency in the TMi for a refraction of light

suggestions, we finally selected MIO. A fitting name for the collec-

that makes the colors stand out particularly well. In both self-con-

tion that plays well with our other collections.

fident Red and natural Brown Gray, the light indeed creates the

How many models are featured in the new collection? We are kicking things off with 17 models. A nice variety of different

color in the MIO. In the temples, the focus is more about adaptability and flexibility.

shapes; female, male, unisex. More restrained and delicate but

Titanium as such is unbreakable, anti-allergenic, lightweight, and

also more expressive with a design focus on surfaces.

durable. Making it the perfect material for eyeglass temples. We SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

use laser-cut horizontal temples made of 1.0 mm titanium

As a label with headquarters in the country-

»MIO P1018«

side, playing with this

plate material in MIO

theme must have been

glasses. Again, with a

fun?

special color feature:

Maybe it’s a cliché

as an additional new

that brands based

»MIO P1020«

color, we coat the

outside the big cities

temples and bridge

tend to be more

with 18-karat Rose

reserved in their

Gold using the PVD

styles. Probably true.

process.

MARKUS T feels

MIO’s product Does the MIO

very comfortable in

design diverge in any

Gütersloh-Isselhorst

way from previous

and many ideas

MARKUS T collections?

are born in the

MARKUS T frames are

natural and inspiring

all marked by sophisti-

environment of our

cated technology. And

factory. That also

purposely don’t hide

applies to our MIO

the technology. MIO is

collection.

a bit more playful and focused more on colors and shapes. Some MIO models play with

Do you have a personal favorite in the MIO

MARKUS T »MIO P1011«

collection? Of course, I’m en-

color nuances created

amored with all

by facets on the upper

models in the new

sections of the frame.

collection. The simp-

With a variety of

le act of cutting

shapes and an exciting color palette, the collection offers a variety

down countless draft options in the assembly of the collection is

of individual frames for making optimistic fashion statements.

an exciting process. This is where personal preferences, market

The interplay of light and color in nature also informs the

demands and an eye for creating a balanced mixture come into

campaign. What came first – the idea for the campaign theme or

play. But I can say that I really like the »P1022«. It’s a nice play on

the collection?

surfaces. Plus, we have added some facets at the upper edges to

First came the idea behind the collection. Then the campaign

further enhance the material and colorway. www.markus-t.com

themes came naturally from the characteristics of the translucent materials and the special form language of the MIO. This exact type of frame had been missing from our portfolio with their selfconfident and affirmative positioning. We’re also seeing it in the positive feedback from our partners and opticians.

Titanium temples in a horizontal design: Just one amazing feature of the MIO Collection. 80

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

license.

is the intellectual property of Daimler AG. It is used by ic! berlin under

THE CAZAL »MOD 8044« shirt JIL SANDER swim trunks RIVER ISLAND

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WAVE

HEAT photography NARÈNTE [Sardinia]

[ LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE ]

casting NARÈNTE styling FRANCO ERRE hair & make-up DANIELA DESSÌ models GABRIELE PECIN at ELITE MILAN & JACOPO DEMURO at LUCIO ARU

CAZAL »MOD 164/3« tanktop REEBOK swim trunks ASOS DESIGN shorts STUDIOVERTICE

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ALLPOETS »Cortazar« shirt BERSHKA

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tanktop ABERCROMBIE & FITCH boxers PUMA swim trunks VINTAGE

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SPECTR

www.clemence-margaux.com Modèle : CM396 LA CREATRICE

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FAVRSPECS.COM

Tips for Google & More Successful Digital Strategies for Independent Opticians It’s no secret: The eyewear business has its peculiarities. The industry is not only unique thanks to a tremendous wealth of fantastic brands and passionate opticians across the globe. But also because the customer journey is a hybrid between digital inspiration as well as on-site counseling and purchasing at the store. Customers embark on a journey that begins online and ends at the local optician. With the FAVR platform, we’ve been accompanying the customer on this journey. In this article, we would like to share some of our insights and experiences. Because just like us, opticians today need to build a strong presence – not just in store. The digital storefront has also become a key to success. Here at FAVR, we’re on the same wavelength, since it’s our goal to lead the customer from our website to the physical optical store.

Eyewear Customer Journey Digital

Physical

Awareness Trigger

Research

Social Media Newsletter

Consideration

Purchase (Optician)

Installation & Service

Virtual Try-On Google Search

Optician Search

Glasses Installation In-Store Visit Customization

Influencers

Blog Posts

Price Comparison

Product Search

Professional Advice & Help

Professional Tips & Maintenance

Purchase Decision

The Eyewear Customer Journey: Merging of Physical and Digital Marketing research places great emphasis on the customer journey. It goes through several phases and starts with general awareness of a product. From there, it leads to product research and finally the customer’s purchase decision. For purely digital products and ordering processes, conversion takes place in the last step — clicking the ‘buy button’. This is where the eyewear industry tends to differ. Because in our business, the customer gets the necessary product research online, but looks for a specialty store — ideally in the vicinity — to seal the deal. This is good for opticians, as long as they have managed to build awareness and rank prominently on Google. With this in mind, the high art lies in gaining a foothold in both worlds — online and offline.

Tips for Google & More Successful Digital Strategies for Independent Opticians

SEO: Climb Google Search Ranks

Niche Retail as a Strength

Tools such as social media, newsletters and the like are helpful,

The digital eyewear market is home to some big players running

because opticians can build general awareness and communicate

scalable business with an unsurmountable advantage. In the face

with regular customers. But our industry needs to keep one thing

of their massive online presence, it is not realistic for opticians to

in mind: Customers are only actively looking for a pair of glasses

compete directly with these big chains. These players have built big

occasionally. Once they have made their purchase, interest drops

stakes in mainstream market queries. So no independent optician

again. As a result, there is less of a firmly defined target group than

should focus on search keywords such as ‘sunglasses’ or ‘red glas-

in businesses catering to cyclically returning customers. However,

ses’, because major platforms such as Amazon, eBay and Zalando

opticians never know in advance when exactly the customer will be

dominate these terms, alongside big eyewear brands. However,

searching. Therefore, search engines are an indispensable part of

the underdog advantage lies with niche topics, where independent

the digital strategy, with the key being SEO (Search Engine Optimi-

opticians can score points. Although these topics generate less

zation). Ultimately, it’s not the optician who contacts the customer,

search volume overall, the click-through rate for relevant results is

but the other way around: Customers want to find ‘their’ opticians

significantly higher.

precisely when the active need arises.

Google Tip: “Long-Tail” & Top 10 Speaking of SEO, it’s important to keep in mind that users tend to only browse the first ten rankings in search queries. Customers don’t want to scroll for a long time. On that first result page, it’s the first three listings that generate over 50 percent of all clicks. With that said, it’s better to focus on long keywords and ‘niche’ topics, as the playing field for reaching the number one spot is even. As a concrete example, it’s better to rank at the top for the query “LUNOR A6 250” than for more popular searches like ‘metal eyewear’ where you may only reach rank 19. The rule of thumb: The longer and more specific the keyword, the higher the click-through rate. And in the end, it’s really getting the click that counts. These niche topic clicks tend to be more valuable, as they stem from a real interest and active desire to make a purchase.

Glasses

45,000 search requests / month

Search Volume

15.7%

Lunor Glasses Lunor Glasses Men

150 search requests / month

Lunor Glasses A6 250

80 search requests / month

8 9

Clickrate

Long-tail keywords with high clickrate.

11.0%

2,650 search requests / month

Low

28.5%

High

8.0% 7.2% 5.1% 4.0% 3.2% 2.8%

10 2.5%

Distribution of clicks on the first Google results page (ordered by rank): The first three places get over 50% of the traffic.

Understand the search intentions of your customers It is also important to understand the search intentions of potential customers. Google always adapts the results page to the user's search intention. For example, Google provides local searches with a map or presents knowledge questions with quotes from important articles. When you write content, you should know in which category it fits and which search intention of the user it can serve.

Which search intention does your content match?

I-want-to-know moments:

I-want-to-go moments:

I-want-to-do moments:

I-want-to-buy moments:

“What are the best titanium eyewear frames?”

“Barton Perreira opticians in Los Angeles”

“Where can I try on glasses online?”

“Theo Black Forest 311”

Optician website

6 Tips for a Successful Google Strategy Opticians looking to rank favorably on Google and other search engines should get expert help. There’s a wide range of SEO agencies and experts available to help understand the market. But in the first step, it’s crucial for opticians to understand and develop their own strategies. Here are a few initial tips: 1. Write blog posts about niche topics that big players don’t cover. 2. Better to build a few successful posts than many irrelevant ones. 3. Focus on longer search terms, so-called ‘mid-tail’ and ‘long-tail’ keywords. 4. SEO takes time: Give new posts and topics a few weeks or months to rank well. 5. Think from a perspective of search intent. What searches do users create with the intent to buy something? What’s different when they just want to know something? 6. Study Google results pages: You can learn a lot about user interests by analyzing Google.

Pro Tips for SEO Research •

Leverage Page Speed Insights: This Google tool helps monitor your technical website experience. Important, because load speed is a ranking factor.

•

Analyze your website traffic with Google Analytics. Learn how users end up on the site and identify your high-performing content.

•

Use Google Search Console to find the search queries bringing users to your site.

•

Get a clear assessment of how you rank on certain keywords and your actual visibility on Google with tools such as Sistrix.

New User Experience FAVR 2.0 Springtime is the time for renewal. In that spirit, we here at FAVR did some housekeeping and added some fresh features for users to our platform. The goal: Making it easier to find the optimal piece of eyewear at optical stores nearby.

Improved Optician Database More than 12,000 independent opticians worldwide and over 100 premium brands: FAVR offers end consumers a unique online selection.

Map Display for Mobile Devices For easier navigation, FAVR now offers map display on mobile devices showing the best opticians in the vicinity.

Google Reviews Most opticians on FAVR have outstanding Google reviews. No need to hide them — we’re showing reviews on FAVR from now on. 2.4 KM FROM YOUR LOCATION

Click-to-Call Button Once a consumer has chosen an optician, they can call them directly from the FAVR platform, ...

Contact Store Button ... or send an email request to one or more opticians, ... CONTACT STORE SHOW DIRECTIONS

Route Finder ... and easily get route navigation to the nearest optical store.

Free fo ra Indepen ll dent Opticia ns

Update Your Brand Portfolio Now – Appear in more searches! In the premium eyewear segment, customers often search online for an optician carrying their favorite brand. In terms of Google search results, FAVR is the only website in the world that delivers brand-related results for opticians. Here’s the catch: As an optician, you will only appear in these searches if your brand portfolio is up to date. For optimal visibility on FAVR, please log in directly to your FAVR profile and select your brands from over 100 premium labels. We offer this service free of charge for all independent opticians listed on FAVR. Click here to log in:

FAVRSPECS.COM

Whether customers search for "Lunor Frankfurt", "Masunaga Berlin", "Barton Perreira Zurich", "Götti Paris" or "Hoffmann Natural Eyewear London", FAVR shows the way to the best local opticians in the city.

NEW

FAVR – Premium & Premium Pro

FEATURE Payment via invoice!

Get Active as Independent Optician, Earn Rewards. Every independent optician listing at least one of the labels featured on FAVR instantly receives a free basic package with the ability to update their brand portfolio to be found in search requests from consumers. Plus, opticians opting for one of our two PREMIUM packages benefit from many additional advantages. They can showcase their offering to the customer as a premium store in a very high-quality segment.

PREMIUM Package:

PREMIUM PRO Package:

Top Search Placement

Several opticians take the extra step by implementing high-end

•

product photography and FAVR’s own Virtual Try-On functio-

PREMIUM Opticians are ranked with priority in search queries

nality on their website. The PREMIUM PRO Package includes all

High-end Profile •

features of the PREMIUM Package, plus some extras: Opticians

PREMIUM opticians appear in a high-quality profile. This

have the chance to include a FAVR microsite on their own website.

includes store photos, opening hours, store information, their

This segment offers visitors the chance to browse all products from

own brand portfolio, Google Reviews. Brand-new features: An

brands carried by the optician. They can try all models online and

in-store interview and team presentation

get in touch with the store via a simple click.

Professional Contact Function •

End users receive several options for conveniently contacting

The best part: Individual setup of a unique microsite takes just five

the optician, e.g. with click-to-call, direct email contact and a

minutes. After that, all updates run automatically and in the back-

route navigation finder

ground. No more action required from the optician.

ent lacem Top p antly ignific s o t act leads r cont highe es chanc

New customers are invited to test the PREMIUM and

PREMIUM PRO Packages for 3 months free of charge. When booking a package in 2022, we issue an attractive discount — permanently.

Scan here for your perfect package:

FAVRSPECS.COM

www.robert-laroche.com

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

MYKITA »Farah«

»Ekon«

»Jojo«

112

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

MYKITA ACETATE

RESPONSIBLY DESIGNED. CRAFTED FROM ACETATE RENEW.

Find MYKITA frames here FAVRSPECS.COM

MYKITA built a reputation as a brand perfec-

ting innovative stainless-steel eyewear. In summer 2022, the Berlin-based label continues the evolution by launching the MYKITA ACETATE collection, replete with a sustaina-

ble twist: MYKITA is the first eyewear brand in the world to make a full switch to Acetate Renew. Founder Moritz Krueger and CSR Director Xenia Glutz von Blotzheim explain the fundamentals behind the new collection and how the move fits into the overall MYKITA brand philosophy.

Hello Moritz, sustainability is increasingly becoming a hygiene

What are your most important levers for having maximum impact?

factor in the eyewear industry. What role does sustainability play

Xenia: Basically, the main levers are changes that generate

at MYKITA?

maximum impact when it comes to significantly reducing the CO2

Moritz: Sustainability is not a hygiene factor, but fundamental for a

footprint of the entire value chain. Materials play an essential role

future right to exist. From the very start, we implemented our own

in the products, for instance recycled or bio-based. Our stainless

transparent local production with a commitment to operate respon-

steel is already 88-percent recycled. Circularity is what we strive

sibly. Responsible design, as we understand, lies in intelligently

for.

combining innovation, quality, and aesthetics to create eyewear

Renew In June you are launching a new material called Acetate Renew.

with a lifespan that significantly exceeds average standards. At

What’s the story?

the same time, we are aware that our impact on the environment

Xenia: With Acetate Renew we are entirely replacing fossil mate-

as a manufacturing company can never be completely neutral.

rials with recycled ingredients. We create a high-quality acetate

Which makes a constant and holistic optimization process all the

with a hundred percent identical chemical composition to its tradi-

more crucial.

tional predecessor via innovative molecular recycling technology

With Xenia Glutz von Blotzheim, you specifically filled the new role

that breaks down recycled plastic waste to its smallest building

of Corporate Social Responsibility Director. Xenia, what are your

blocks. Molecular recycling prevents plastic waste from ending up

most important responsibilities?

in landfills and incinerators or washing out to sea as litter. It does

Xenia: Because I have been with the company since 2008, I start

so by recycling hard-to-recycle plastics such as carpets, textiles,

into this role with a solid foundation. I’m well familiar with the

or waste from the eyewear industry. Ultimately, Acetate Renew

people, processes, products, and value chain. CSR comprises the

reduces CO2 emissions by up to 50 percent compared to the

areas of People, Planet & Prosperity. We want to drive positive

conventional manufacturing process.

developments in these segments while reducing our impact on

Your company is not the first to use this material but you’re taking

the environment. It is important to keep an eye on changing con-

it one step further, right?

sumer demands, also identify opportunities for innovation, and to

Moritz: MYKITA is the world’s first eyewear brand to switch com-

focus the positive energy that we all contribute towards this goal.

pletely to sustainable acetate. We’re all in. Since April, we have SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

113

MYKITA »Badu«

Perfect comfort of wear thanks to proprietary Endura hinges.

»Lerato«

»Davu«

been exclusively sourcing Acetate Renew, which is used across

Moritz: True to the name, we have subjected all various develop-

all collections.

ment stages to an extreme testing regime to achieve maximum

In your new Acetate collection all models are already made of

durability and service life. The frames feature an ergonomic de-

Acetate Renew. Renew What is special about the collection besides the

sign that is particularly simple and precise to adjust for an optimal

material?

fit. The patented Endura hinge has been developed to ensure a

Moritz: Full-fledged acetate glasses represent the most relevant

warp-free frame system that maintains the anatomically adapted

product category on the eyewear market overall. But the design

shape of the glasses and provides perfect comfort of wear. The

and manufacturing method of acetate frames has not really de-

plug-in connection is purely mechanical and allows for completely

veloped significantly. So this leads to a relatively high density of

tool-free assembly of all individual components. This combination

collections with a high degree of interchangeability on the market.

of design, research and technology ensures perfect wearability

So we went back to the drawing board and started all over again.

and personalized aesthetics.

We analyzed acetate glasses in their basic elements and functions for our brand. In how far?

Xenia: We have a wealth of ideas and a great urge to drive change. The eyewear industry is just waking up to this issue, but

Moritz: Every component, every material intersection, every

it’s about time! Demo glasses are wasteful products, due to the

process has either been newly developed or optimized to the

short use and lack of recycling possibilities. Here we are looking

maximum. As a result, the interplay of the frames’ technical, struc-

for a holistic solution. We are gradually working through individual

tural components and the sculptural acetate body has gained a

aspects and working on changes. There is a lot of potential for

new, independent aesthetic. All with honest roots in functionality.

innovation and with partnerships across the supply chain, real

MYKITA ACETATE fits consistently into our collection portfolio and

change can happen. This is what we strive to work for.

comprises four design codes: Essential, Grace, Bold, and Icon. What’s the role of your patented Endura hinge in the process? 114

Does your sustainability roadmap already include further projects?

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

Thank you. mykita.com

LOOKS GORGEOUS FEELS LIKE SUMMER IS BIO-DEGRADABLE AND CLIMATE—NEUTRAL TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT OUR NEW «OFFSET—COLLECTION» AT THE OPTI 2022, HALL 2, BOOTH 444. SCAN THE QR—CODE FOR MORE INFORMATION.

still photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

PORSCHE DESIGN CELEBRATES HALF A CENTURY WITH EXCLUSIVE MODELS

50 YEARS OF DESIGN SUPREMACY Time flies when you’re pushing the boundaries. Hard to believe, but it’s already been half a century since Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, designer of the iconic Porsche 911 sports car, set up a premium label in pursuit of elevating the state of the art. Founded in 1972, PORSCHE DESIGN set out to create unique and future-oriented products supple-

mented by the latest technologies. This founding mission remains at the core of the brand’s DNA, now cultivated by the design team at Studio F. A. Porsche in Zell am See, Austria. Over the years, PORSCHE DESIGN has channeled its Engineered Passion into stylish and progressive eyewear and introduced a number of groundbreaking technical concepts along the way. Always driven by F.A. Porsche’s philosophy: “When you rethink the function of something, the form sometimes emerges as if by itself.” This minimalist creed gave rise to milestones like the »P’8478« sunglasses, the world’s first sunglasses with an interchangeable lens concept released in 1978. Not to forget 1979’s Shield sunglasses, worn by pop culture mavens such as Madonna and Yoko Ono, and now iconic pieces of eyewear history. In celebration of the major anniversary, PORSCHE DESIGN released the 50Y Porsche Design Capsule Collection with a two-fold perspective: On one hand, the iconic brand looks back at design classics and concepts from half a century. And on the other hand, PORSCHE DESIGN remains true to its progressive DNA by implementing the

latest materials and manufacturing processes to keep moving things forward. The 50Y Porsche Design Capsule Collection is now available, and SPECTR showcases two models for a solid look under the hood.

Engineered Passion: 50 years of experience, constantly pursuing the future. The »P’8928« adds a geometric and masculine style to the 50Y PORSCHE DESIGN Capsule Collection. 116

SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

ED »P’

»P’

847

IGN

8«

50Y Porsche Design Capsule Collection Today, interchangeable lenses are a staple in sunglasses and even ski goggles. But back when PORSCHE DESIGN created the »P’8478« sunnies in 1978, the concept of altering the tint or color of lenses on the same frame changed the paradigm. Plus, the look was just so captivating: The droplet-shaped lenses and technical aesthetic set a new standard for equally functional and modern design. The modern look now grows wings in the 50Y Sunglasses »P’8478«, fundamentally reengineered according to today’s technical possibilities. For the first time, the sunglasses feature almost flat base-two curve lenses to become even more slim overall. The lens changing mechanism remains unchanged, while the lenses have been upgraded: The frame’s Vision Drive polarized lenses are made from scratch-proof, unbreakable polycarbonate in gray. They can be easily replaced with included replacement lenses in Olive Silver Mirror. What’s more, the matted black frame is now made from titanium with accents in satin-gloss platinum for a futuristic yet wearable look. Limited worldwide to 1,972 units (see what they did there?).

SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

117

PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8950«

P’8950 50Y Iconic 3D The influential Shield sunglasses were released by PORSCHE DESIGN in the late 1970s. Now, they inspire an anniversary edition frame that might just become a new design classic in its own right: The »P’8950« 50Y Iconic 3D makes a future-forward impression with its oversized shield front, which seems to float above the wearer’s face thanks to the dynamic interplay of changing material thicknesses and dimensions. Looking beneath the surface, the oversized shape runs on the latest high tech. For a lightweight and robust finish, the designers resorted to revolutionary technology in an additive manufacturing process. The sleek »P’8950« 50Y Iconic 3D frame is created by melting titanium powder with a laser using the Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) method. It’s a highly precise process for 3D-printing the elegant frame layer-by-layer. SLS implements titanium to create shapes previously impossible to achieve by conventional methods. This latest milestone in PORSCHE DESIGN history is limited worldwide to 911 pieces, so you

Futuristic design with various levels

need to move fast to catch one!

of thickness, realized via 3D-printing. www.porsche-design.com

118

SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

Limited to 911 pieces.

#NEWRINASCIMENTO

lookocchiali.it

CHARMANT GmbH Europe| charmant.de

DON’T FERCHICHI [Milan] photography WILLIAM

CAROL LEVERGGER at WAVE MANAGEMENT

styling ERIKA GUERRISI assisted by ANTONIEPA RAGUSA hair ANGELO ROSAULIANA make-up ASJA REDOLFI assisted by SERENA PLACIER photo assistant GIORGIA DAL MOLIN models DENISE CROCE & MARIAH RENNE at URBAN MODELS,

SEDUCE

CUTLER AND GROSS »1396«

top & pants DROME

blazer ICONA

121

SPECTR

CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CMS105 SUNSHINE« jumpsuit BARTOLOTTA & MARTORANA jacket JUDY ZHANG

122

SPECTR

CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CMS130 L’EVOCATRICE« dress FLAVIA MARDI top GERLANDO DISPENZA

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123

MOREL »60152M« top DAVII

124

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I-SPAX »Cube« top DROME

SPECTR

125

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2330« jacket FRANCESCA COTTONE earrings RADÀ

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2306« jacket GAËLLE PARIS

SPECTR

127

LITHE »16030« earrings RADÀ

LITHE »16032« shirt BABYLON

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STARCK BIOTECH PARIS »SH3082« dress ERICA IODICE earrings RADÀ

STARCK BIOTECH PARIS »SH3075« shirt DROME earrings RADÀ 130

SPECTR

KLENZE & BAUM »Poggi« outfit JUST CAVALLI earrings RADÀ

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131

FACE A FACE »Tilde 1« shirt ROMEO GIGLI earrings RADÀ 132

SPECTR

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I BR I L CO n « e »B

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lia

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SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

C FA

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photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Northern German design at its best: Minimalist frames for women with Virtually try on COLIBRIS

delicate faces.

FAVRSPECS.COM

COLIBRIS – EYEWEAR BRAND FOR WOMEN COLIBRIS specializes in eyewear for women with petite facial features.

But make no mistake: These are not just scaled down versions of existing shapes. The frames are actually designed and manufactured with a sophisticated focus, as explained by CEO Elena Reckzeh-Gogoll in this

SPECTR interview.

Hello Elena, COLIBRIS is known for ‘great

accessories in recent years, COLIBRIS

The focus is not on the brand, but the

glasses for small faces’. When did you

has also increased our focus on design.

personality of the wearer. Our shapes and

come up with this specific product idea?

Viewed from today’s perspective, our first

colorways enhance the individual per-

models were rather pragmatic problem

sonality without the glasses themselves

COLIBRIS was founded in the year 2000

by my parents, who are both opticians. My mother happens to have a very

solvers. And how about today?

claiming center stage. Loaded question: Are there peculiarities

narrow face, so she did not fit most of

Today our eyewear is much more fashion-

in the design of smaller frames or are they

the glasses available on the market back

able, and the collection represents many

merely scaled-down versions of ‘regular’

then. So my father started making small-

of the current trends. From delicate

glasses?

sized glasses. First for my mother, then for

stainless-steel frames to striking acetate

Actually, you cannot ‘shrink’ glasses

his store and with the creation of COLIBRIS

models.

at will. The nose section and temple

for all opticians who want to offer glasses

How would you describe your company

attachments in particular would run risk

that fit adults with petite faces.

philosophy?

of appearing oversized. More importantly,

So COLIBRIS could be described as a brand

As a family-operated business, we repre-

however, our collection does not simply

for women with rather delicate features?

sent a countermovement to fast fashion.

revolve around ‘small glasses’. Much

Sure, although having a delicate face is

From initial design to final product, most

rather, we take stylistic elements such

not a character trait. COLIBRIS glasses are

of our collection is created in Germany.

as the oversized look or a keyhole nose

worn by young people just the same as

Our stainless-steel models and acetate

bridge and make them suitable for the

experienced people in retirement age.

plates are produced in Italy. The collec-

petite proportions of slim faces with lots

With that said, our target group is quite

tion is characterized by longevity. We

of detailed work.

large, but also very diverse. Fashion and

tend to keep the individual models in our

By now, many brands also offer small

trends shape our collections. However,

line longer than other brands, much like

frames in their range. How do you excel in

we are always aware of the diverse set of

the matching spare parts. We are also

this particular niche?

needs of COLIBRIS wearers. For example,

committed to being a reliable partner

So, I really like to drink coffee. And of

we specifically design models with small

for individual optical retailers. Since I’ve

course, nowadays you can get coffee in

lens sizes for high prescription strengths

joined the leadership team, we have set

any restaurant. However, if you want a

and never measure the success of a mo-

the course for COLIBRIS to remain true to

large selection as well as high quality, you

del by sales figures alone.

this philosophy for years to come.

need to look for specialists, for instance

Speaking of models, have your frame

Is there a typical design language in place

coffee roasters or coffee shops. We have

designs changed over time?

at COLIBRIS?

been specialists when it comes to small

Much in the way that eyeglasses have

True to our Nordic sentiment, our glasses

glasses for over 20 years. They are the

evolved from mere visual aids to fashion

are minimalist, reduced to the essentials.

backbone of our business, not an addition SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

135

»Z

»M

a«

»A

a«

to the collection. We continuously refine

vidual measurements and needs. Factors

tomers and build long-term relationships

the recipe behind our designs. Fit, balance

like bridge width, lens size, temple length

with COLIBRIS wearers. The principle

and maintaining the golden ratio are the

and colorways can fully be customized.

already set for opticians should also apply

focus. No matter which glasses from the

With the engraving of the name on the

to end customers: once COLIBRIS always

collection our wearers put on their narrow

inside of the temple, a pair of COLIBRIS

face, they will fit. This puts an end to their

glasses becomes a one-of-a-kind item.

You are a classic family business with a

painstaking search for a fitting pair of

You only stepped into the CEO position last

strong footing in the optical trade and

glasses once and for all.

year. What have been the most important

an excellent store in the German town of

steps since?

Lubeck. To what extent does your experi-

Which materials have proven most suited

COLIBRIS.

COLIBRIS has been close to me since

ence from the optical business inform the

It all started with acetate and today this

my childhood. More than ten years ago,

collection?

material is still the basis for a large part of

I came on board to expand the sales

Selling our own eyewear to end custo-

the collection. The versatility in terms of

force. First in Germany, then I opened

mers in our own store is probably the

colors and shapes is unique. Plus, depen-

Switzerland and the Netherlands for us.

best quality check imaginable. Plus, the

ding on the finish of the surface – whe-

Joining as the CEO amidst the pandemic

direct contact with end customers allows

ther it’s matted, brushed or polished – the

was both a challenge and an opportunity.

us to pinpoint trends and demands early

light is reflected differently.

In the absence of tradeshows, we had to

on and incorporating them directly into

Have you branched out into other materials

come up with new approaches in order to

the design process. Our opticians provide

over the years?

keep in touch with customers and present

expert input on our collection, while the

Yes, over the past few years stainless

our new products. My office became a

happy faces of our customers always

steel has become the favorite among our

video studio a few weeks after moving

customers and designers. We like to com-

in, where I hold virtual collection presen-

Due to your retail experience, you also

plement the sleek, shiny look of metal

tations for opticians around the globe. At

know the opticians’ needs and offer many

with colorful glossy or matted finishes, as

the same time, we have launched internal

tools, especially digital ones. What stands

well as acetate Windsor rings or delicate

projects so that the history and philoso-

out in particular?

engravings.

phy of our family-owned company can be

Indeed, we offer quite a few options such

experienced from a distance.

as Click & Connect, collection showcases

to realizing your vision?

Do you offer customer-specific adjustments?

136

And what’s next?

bring an extra boost of motivation.

via video conferencing, B2B-Online-Shop,

A large part of our acetate models can be

Over the coming years, I also want to

Look4, workshop services and technical

produced in our factory according to indi-

raise brand awareness among end cus-

support, and Contedi.

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

colibris.eu

CLIP IT ON LUNOR EXPANDS ITS SUCCESSFUL CLIP-ON ACCESSORY PROGRAM During the summer months, clip-ons prove highly in-demand accessories photography MAXINE VAN ENDERT [Berlin] styling & creative direction HANIBALL SALIBA hair & make-up MICHI SCHIETZEL model ARIANE SIEVERT at MODELWERK & MAKSIM at IZAIO production FABRIKA

among eyeglass wearers. Recently, the nifty add-ons have seen a true renai-

138

ssance. This is probably fueled by the increasingly sophisticated technical concepts for clipping extra sunglass lenses onto optical frames. For a particlarly unobtrusive solution, check out the clip-ons from LUNOR introduced 30 years ago. Now the quality manufacturer from the Black Forest is doubling down by expanding its clip-on program. As the Collection Shoot demonstrates, the results can be just as stylish as ‘regular’ sunglasses. SPECTR shines light on the issue in our interview with LUNOR’s Michael Fux.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Virtually try on LUNOR FAVRSPECS.COM

LUNOR »A6 250« leather jacket MASSIMO DUTTI sweater ESPRIT

LUNOR »A5 226« -

trenchcoat ZARA

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

139

»A6 246« leather jacket SANDRO PARIS shirt ANERKJENDT

»A5 234« leather top TIGER OF SWEDEN

LUNOR »A5 232« -

polo shirt MARC CAIN 140

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

LUNOR »A5 215« leather jacket COS polo shirt MARC CAIN

»A6 250« sweater ZARA shirt UNIQLO

Hello Michael, LUNOR has been offering clip-ons for 30 years now. What is the overall importance of this segment? It’s rather big! Currently, clip-ons are only

where a clip-on makes a lot of sense, as it

and the clip-on comes in space-saving

ensures good sun protection.

case. So people are prepared for any

Which models make clip-ons a bit more challenging due to their basic shape?

weather and lighting situation. Then again, clip-ons are only really sexy if

available for our acetate frames. However,

The shape of the »232« is definitely the

they barely appear as such. What are the

their popularity has grown steadily in re-

most challenging in our collection. In

special challenges in design and produc-

cent years, so we will soon be expanding

general, the more angular and narrow a

tion?

them to metal frames.

shape, the more challenging it is to match

The design always needs to match signa-

the frame and the clip-on to perfectly

ture LUNOR style: timeless design without

align both eye rims.

frills. It is important that the clip-on wraps

Which collections feature clip-ons at the moment? Right now we offer clip-ons for select

Where do you see the biggest benefits of

the frame and creates a harmonious

shapes in the A5 and A6 collections.

clip-ons?

overall appearance. For this reason, we

These are particularly classic and time-

For people wearing glasses, we see two

wanted to omit anything ‘unnecessary’.

less acetate frames. The A5 is somewhat

main advantages: the uncomplicated res-

The rim lock was a particular pain in the

more delicate, the A6 somewhat more

ponse to changing light conditions. For

neck. But through some technical trickery,

bold in expression. After adding the new

example when driving and entering a tun-

we were ultimately able to leave it out

A5 shape »607«, a total of nine different

nel or a wooded area. There, the clip can

completely and make the overall design

clip-ons are available as of this year.

be easily removed. And second, clip-ons

even more pleasing.

Would you say that clip-ons are having a

offer a comparatively inexpensive and yet

renaissance?

very high quality way to get sunglasses

Our LUNOR clip-ons are adapted to the

Demand has definitely grown steadily.

in your prescription. People always have

respective eyeglass frames with milli-

This is especially true for larger shapes,

their prescription frames on them anyway,

meter precision and feature four small

What was the solution?

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

141

LUNOR »A5 231« jacket ZARA, shirt JOOP!

»A5 215« leather jacket COS turtleneck SHEIN

hooks. These hooks grip the acetate

maxim: less is more. Clip-ons underline

The green sun lenses have been a staple in

frame precisely. The two sun lenses are

the classic eyewear design and should

the line from the beginning. But the brown

connected via a narrow and flexible bar

not stand alone. We still quite often re-

ones are new this year. Do they serve diffe-

that clamps the clip onto the frame.

ceive feedback from our customers who

rent purposes?

What are your priorities in terms of

purchased their clip-ons in the 1990s and

Comfort of wear is highly subjective.

usability?

still use them. And we sure want to keep

Green lenses make the surroundings

it that way.

appear a bit cooler, while brown lenses

We built the clip-on so that it can be easily attached and detached from the frame

What materials and colors do you use for

render things in a warmer tone. Everyone

with just one hand. This requires a little

your clip-ons?

has different preferences here, and we

practice at first, but then happens quickly

LUNOR Clip-Ons are crafted entirely from

want to give the wearer more options to

and easily in practice.

stainless steel, which makes them extra-

choose from. From a design point of view,

Are there different parameters for design-

ordinarily stable despite their delicate

the color combination of gold and brown

ing clip-ons than optical eyewear? Can the

construction. We offer two colors: Antique

just looks more coherent.

design be bolder?

Silver with green lenses and Antique Gold

At the end of the day, we stick to the 142

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

with brown lenses.

Thanks for the interview, Michael. lunor.com

»Aero«

TIALS

»Aero Hayle«

»Aero«

144

SPECTR

FAVR

BLACKFIN

SEN photography NOCERA

»Sila«

& FERRI [London]

retouch NICOLE FROST

»Ber t«

»Hannes

SPECTR

145

»1396«

»1399«

»1397«

146

SPECTR

CUTLER AND GROSS

EINSTOFFEN »Nachtwächter«

»Tänzerin«

»Regenmacher«

SPECTR

147

FLEYE »Margit«

»Nelly«

»Jonna«

148

SPECTR

»2332/47«

»2326«

NATURAL EYEWEAR

»2324 D«

HOFFMANN

»K 三 Lilac«

»GMS -120TS«

»KO -94U«

150

SPECTR

METROPOLITAN

»8110«

»8273«

»8109«

SPECTR

151

»Human«

»Starblazer «

»Evergreen«

152

SPECTR

ØRGREEN

RAEN

»Cy«

»Mika«

»Bluth«

SPECTR

153

»Yuzu«

»Ondulato«

»Gnomo«

154

SPECTR

TALLA

MOREL »90011C«

156

SPECTR

photography MARKUS

BURKE [Munich]

SISTERS

MIND

styling STUDIO 163 hair & make-up IRIS MARTIN at AGENTUR PHOENIX models VIKTORIA & PAULA at ELF MODEL MGMT

MOREL

»80063A«

SPECTR

157

ALLPOETS »Bishop«

158

SPECTR

ALLPOETS »Alberti«

SPECTR

159

WOODYS »Kate 04«

160

SPECTR

LINDBERG »8332«

SPECTR

161

NATHALIE BLANC »Lolita 2«

162

SPECTR

NATHALIE BLANC »Jeanine«

SPECTR

163

NIRVAN JAVAN SHADES OF TORONTO »05:14:05 (EST )«

164

SPECTR

NIRVAN JAVAN SHADES OF TORONTO »06:16:07 (EST )«

SPECTR

165

INVU »B2229B«

166

SPECTR

FACE A FACE »Night 2« -

turtleneck HOSBJERG

FACE A FACE »Night 1« top CULT GAIA pants DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER

168

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

LIGHT IS COLOR, COLOR IS LIGHT

Virtually try on FACE A FACE FAVRSPECS.COM

FACE A FACE INTRODUCES NEW 2022 COLLECTION For the past few years, Paris-based label FACE A FACE released a constant output of surprising eyewear designs for fashionable women. Through it all, the French brand maintains a unique balance: A noticeable edginess in the style of haute couture meets ready-to-wear designs, or as the French call it, pret-à-porter. The new SS 2022 collection follows in these footsteps with light as the major theme. Claire Ferreira at FACE A FACE Design Lab details the delicate interplay of light and reflections in the new line.

photography JANA EDISONGA [Berlin] hair & make-up ANNE KRARUP styling SABINE THOSS models GEORGETTE at VIVA MODELS & KOTRYNA at M4 casting TAMARA SARISCHWILI at BLUEBUNNY PRODUCTION light assistant SIMEON MORALES FÜSS SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

169

FACE A FACE »Clone 1« -

turtleneck GANNI

FACE A FACE »Clone 2« -

top SOLACE LONDON

As the theme of your SS 2022 sunglasses

workshop turns into a real color labo-

collection, you chose “Light is color, color is

ratory! From this sort of messy environ-

light”. What is the general idea behind the

ment, new colorways always emerge

concept?

from collisions. For the new 2022 optical

The idea is to present the collection

collection, we have been fascinated by

through the story of the light. From the

ultra-violet color spectrums.

last rays of light till the moonlight. Each

Your design channels changing light con-

frame is an exploration, an interpretation

ditions over the course of day and night.

of one specific type of light.

Please explain?

What role does light generally play in

The optical collection tells the story of the

design?

daily path of the sun across the sky. It’s

Light is key! It is an ethereal element that

our Zenit concept with a zenithal neon

reveals and highlights material elements.

color on top on the frame, while the sun

Their volume, deepness. It can also play

collection tells the story of light at night.

with mystery, focusing on an area while

In this context you also speak of ‘futuristic

concealing another.

astral poetry’. Which sphere are you perso-

How does light affect your color scheme for the line?

catcher while the night transforms eve-

tail into a colorful one. So light became the

rything into new ideas on a more sublimi-

color. We also played with light through

nal level!

the different opacities of our acetate, from

Is there an overarching design approach

opaque to transparent and opalescent

beyond the content theme? Our content theme is not pre-defined

With that said, will you be introducing never

before developing a collection. It comes

seen before colors to the line in 2022?

from common elements appearing on

When we start working on colors, our SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

I would say that the day is an inspiration

We transposed what could be a light de-

materials.

170

nally drawn to, day or night?

our first intuitions, sketches, models, or

exhibitions we saw. And a theme is a blooming organism. Rather than shutting out creativity, it opens new doors of expression. What are the key products in the new collection? With »Beyond«, we feature filtered light, while the sun is setting down with our »Sunset« glasses. »Night« evokes the horizon line between night and day, while »Eclips« echoes the elusive halo. Let’s start with the »Beyond« sunnies. What makes these designs special? These sunglasses are inspired by the light diffused through a Venetian blind. The groove – a signature motif of FACE A FACE’s graphical language – redraws

and punctuates the frames. It allows the transparency or the color to filter through, which makes the light rays appear to float.

FACE A FACE »Beyond 1«

FACE A FACE »Beyond 2«

dress NO. 21

top ZARA

The design has traces of a cat eye shape, right? Yes, the concept is expressed by a wraparound cat eye panto and square. These are two sculpted and protective shapes with offset middle end-pieces. They cultivate the originality in contrasting volume SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

171

FACE A FACE »Sunset 1«

and subtlety.

FACE A FACE »Eclips 2« -

blazer PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI skirt NO. 21

What about the designs and colors of the

and the halo speak about appearing and

»Sunset« model?

disappearing.

»Sunset« glasses reinvent sundown. A

You also play with transparencies in this

long and minimalist frontal strip is arran-

model. What’s the light-inspired special FX

ged on the side to create a diminuendo

in this frame?

of three strips housing a colored crystal

The frames reveal their cosmic dimension

at the center. The colors shimmer and the

by playing with colors and transparencies:

sun appears to be setting inside. An eme-

shading, coalescence and colorful pro-

rald green combines with saffron orange,

gressions collide. Embedded turquoise

soft pink and transparent tortoiseshell

and prismatic violet meet milky mandarin

temples. Meanwhile, a pomegranate gra-

temples, whilst the eclipse appears in all

dient sparkles in the neon coral strip, mint

its glory represented by a black eye and

green and opalescent pink temples, like a

transparent smoky-grey lunar halo. Star-

fruity frosted cocktail.

dust granite effect temples tell the story

The »Night« model is a really bold frame. What’s the story? »Night« represents twilight. Like mysteri-

Which types of wearers are you addressing with the new models? People who like wearing daring yet ele-

down wraparound sunglasses with wide

gant frames. Who care about handmade

temple are charismatic. The sculpted and

products, with lots of attention to details.

faceted front catches bursts of light, em-

Each concept is versatile from one color

phasizing the dual aspect of the frame.

spectrum to another, so we aim to please

»Eclips« glasses, a very special frame? These are stellar sunglasses! A transparent halo around the eyes recalls the beauty of an eclipse. The volume of the eye emerges from the contour while this SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

of the moon.

ous catwalk masks, these two-tone top-

Last but not least, let’s talk about the

172

one becomes finer. Both the sculpture

a wide range of moods! www.faceaface-paris.com

FOUNDED AND DESIGNED BY GIANLUCA GUALANDI

DEPOSED TRADEMARK

ONE UOMO

WWW.TALLAEYEWEAR.COM

IG/ @TALLAEYEWEAR

MATERIAL STAINLESS S

MODEL SINUOSO

photos GIGI STUDIOS

GIGI STUDIOS »Kenza«

AS FAR AS I CAN SEE GIGI STUDIOS’ OUTSTANDING CAMPAIGN

»Winona« Sometimes the borders between reality and

true to the Barcelona-based brand’s DNA:

trasts. The line also includes retro designs in

fiction can get blurry. That’s also the case in

Stylish and fashionable down to the last

translucent colorways, especially the optical

the latest GIGI STUDIOS campaign, in which

detail.

models. When it comes to more subtle styles,

protagonists walk a thin line. With As Far

174

Captured in the campaign’s premium visu-

the models from the timeless Icons as well

As I Can See, the brand based in Catalonia

al language, the new GIGI STUDIOS eyewear

as the Lab Collection hit the spot. But make

invites viewers to attain a new perspective on

models expand the collections Vanguard,

no mistake: For GIGI STUDIOS, ‘subtle’ never

what they perceive as real. The artistic vision

Men, Icons and Lab. When it came to choo-

equals ‘boring’ or ‘tame’. All styles in the new

not only hits the current zeitgeist spot-on,

sing the materials, GIGI STUDIOS designers

line-up rise above the rest of the pack with

but once again serves as a proof of concept

relied on proven quality. The choices include

that special something.

for the creative spirit behind GIGI STUDIOS.

Italian acetate, German stainless steel, and

What’s more, the campaign video uses the

beta titanium. Many of the models not just

ding eyewear styles in an artistic, exciting

power of fantasy to display the season’s new

dazzle on the strength of their strong form

campaign. That’s why we here at SPECTR

styles, which consist of daring and extrava-

language, but also incorporate bright colors

are awarding it this issue’s Campaign Award.

gant shapes. All with a keen sense of fashion,

and harmonious, pronounced color con-

Bravo!

S P E C T R / / C A M PA I G N AWA R D

As Far As I Can See captures outstan-

www.gigistudios.com

Virtually try on GIGI STUDIOS FAVRSPECS.COM

»Roma«

»Dalton«

GIGI STUDIOS »Chiara«

»Mirna«

S P E C T R / / C A M PA I G N AWA R D

175

NEW STYLES FROM LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA

photography NARÈNTE // LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia] casting NARÈNTE styling VERONICA RUGGERI hair & make-up DANIELA DESSÌ models MARTHA MASSIEL at THE CLAW MODELS & FILIPPO PINNA at BRAVE MODELS assistant ALESSIA GRECO

VIVA L’ITALIA

Bellissimo! This special photo shoot celebrates all things Italian. To really set the scene, everything you see is 100% made in Italy. Not just the design and manufacturing of the star of the show, eyewear from LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA. The shoot itself also took place on Italian soil, in Sardinia to be exact. We get the full lowdown in our on-location interview with LOOK designer Giordano Cazzola and marketing manager Marco De Fina.

176

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

For our Collection Shoot in Sardinia, you sent us some current models from LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA. Giordano, what exactly are

the main talking points here? Giordano: We want to show you how LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA is combining re-

search, production know how and functional design in a unique and exclusive way according to a cross-upselling concept. In this concept, the adult product segment is defined through the material as a marker of quality either premium or high-end. Some of the featured products are from the Materika line. What distinguishes Materika in general? In Materika, the aptitude of LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA for design research is elevated to

a higher level. There is a direct dialogue between the objectives of the designer and the production department. Technology and craftsmanship come together to give rise to new concepts in the high-end eyewear segment, where the study of materials and driving innovation remain the focus of each project. How does the Strato collection fit into the Materika approach? Strato is part of the new Alumix collection, within the experimental section of Materika. This new experience renews the choices our company made in the past, for instance to best represent one of our distinctive materials. Speaking of materials, Alumix is the dominant choice in the collection? Yes, it’s a special alloy of aluminum and magnesium. Super-light and high-performance and shaped according to completely exclusive processing criteria. From a design perspective, what are the Strato? special features of Strato Strato models are characterized by a contemporary design, focusing on details and the idea of a stratification that enhances

LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA Materika Aurea »75360«

the richness of the workmanship. Numerous mechanical steps alternate with calculated craftsmanship, creating a story of processes combined with accuracy

and precision. Creativity is thereby trans-

shirt JIL SANDER

lated into attractive glasses of absolute

knit vest BIELO

aesthetic novelty. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

177

You also play with ‘contrasting finishes’. What’s the story behind that? The concept is to apply the expertise of the company’s research on Alumix to the theme of contrast, understood as a harmonious dialogue between different thicknesses and surfaces. The aim is to satisfy the attentive eye of the observer, through a perception of enveloping tactility. Strato? What is the color concept behind Strato

Look Aurea »4530« -

Not only are the colors completely new,

top MRZ

but there is also a revolutionary color

trousers SAMSØE & SAMSØE

concept in Strato. In how far? The colors range from ruby red to virtual green. From signal yellow to graphite black to the more reassuring midnight blue or slate grey. But the colors never appear flat or dull. The saturation of acid green or amethyst violet, for example, is diluted in both matted and metallic nuances. It is exciting to see how the tangible differences in the surface can be grasped by rotating the glasses and changing the point of observation. Next in our Collection Shoot, Aurea is a special capsule collection. Marco, how does this collection fit into your line-up? Marco: Aurea is a limited-edition capsule collection. A project that was created to make tangible the visual experience of the NEW RINASCIMENTO image campaign. In fact, we decided to communicate our values not only through our image but by translating them into product, which represents our core business. We can say that Aurea is the fruit of NEW RINASCIMENTO. What was the starting point? Aurea was born from an apparently simple concept. The development started from identifying the common denominator within nature, understood in its totality. Nature as an environment but also as human nature. The connection that man has always sought with nature. We identified it in the ‘golden ratio’, the highest expression of harmony. It’s a sincere bond with the ‘beauty’ that has always existed in nature. 178

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Materika Strato »70661« -

jacket ANDREA POMPILIO

LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA Look Aurea »4531« top CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS trousers SAMSØE & SAMSØE

For which target group is this concept designed? Aurea is a product in the adult premium and high-end segments of LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA.

How many styles are part of the collection? The capsule consists of four frames, two men’s and two women’s, designed by LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA designers Giusep-

pe De Riva and Augusto Valentini. Aurea will also create two entire collections for the adult premium and adult high-end segments, completing the development of LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA acetate frames. How can the design language of Aurea be described? It is a language that speaks of refined Italian creativity. Everything originates from the desire to represent beauty following a simple concept that we can summarize with the word harmony.

Materika Strato »70662«

dress ARTHUR ARBESSER

What materials and colors do you play with in this capsule collection? First of all, Aurea is a full acetate product in which our expertise has been used to experiment. The color games range from transparencies to detailed coloring proSPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

179

LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA Materika Strato »70663« -

shirt CAP STUDIO

cesses to express the creativity underlying the project to the fullest. For example, in the »Aurea 4530« model, the concept of ‘overlapping lightness’ is introduced. The acetate material is processed in such a way as to look like a stratification of colors, where each layer has its own specific aesthetic function. As a brand with its own manufacturing, you also have a great influence on the ecological footprint of your eyewear. What steps are you taking to keep it low? First of all, we focus our research on choosing the best raw materials. Without them, you cannot make excellent products. For us, this is mandatory. We research and develop materials internally, for instance Alumix. These materials have a very low environmental impact during extraction and create a sustainable product life cycle. They are recyclable countless times and without losing any of their mechanical properties, which guarantees continued product performance with a low footprint. Thank you both for the interview. lookocchiali.it 180

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Materika Aurea »75361« jacket HOWLIN

THE NEW S L E E K C O L L E C T I O N BY

3D-PRINTED EYEWEAR MADE IN GERMANY K L E N Z E B AU M . C O M

Virtually try on SALT. FAVRSPECS.COM

SALT. LAUNCHES C2-22 COLLECTION

With the launch of the new C2-22 Collection, California eyewear label SALT. stays true to its devotion to timeless style. Again, timelessness goes deeper than mere aesthetics and stylistics. Because every SALT. model, whether optical or sunglasses, is built to last and look relevant for decades. SPECTR checks the new collection with Trevor Dylan Kelley, product designer at SALT..

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

HONOR THE PAST, CREATE FOR THE FUTURE

182

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

SALT. »Jefferson«

»Jefferson«

»Livingston«

Speaking as a product designer, what guides your process when designing eyewear for SALT.? For us, authenticity is always paramount. How does that manifest in actual products?

What is the idea behind the new line? The idea is to offer a timeless original style that delivers the highest optical experience possible. Why is timelessness so important to you and how do you define it?

We want authenticity to run through all aspects of the design and

We love heritage eyewear, but it’s not enough to just keep making

development process. From the inspiration behind the styles, to

what has worked in the past. We want to honor what has come

the integrity of the materials, and the function of the final product,

before, but also elevate it with design features and quality mate-

authenticity informs each step and choice along the way.

rials to provide a better performing product. Each piece of SALT.

Has it become more challenging to remain authentic and maintain

eyewear is specifically crafted to help the dispensing optician pro-

quality in these turbulent times?

vide the most elevated product possible and deliver the highest

Well, in this current global situation I think that every industry is

optical experience to the end consumer.

feeling a crunch on raw materials and production. Even in a pre-

In the bigger picture, how important are sunglasses in the new line

Covid world though, eyewear required such a long lead time to

and for your brand overall?

produce. The process of bringing a style all the way from design

From a design perspective, sunglasses play just as important of a

concept to a frame on a shelf can easily take up to a full year.

role as optical. It’s where our love of eyewear started, and a part

Does that put a different perspective on the design process?

of the brand that we continually want to develop and refine.

If you don’t truly know why you’re making a frame and what

Is that also the reason why your design hardly varies between sun-

customer that frame is going to serve, then you can find it may be

glasses and optical glasses? Many other brands are ‘bolder’ in the

lost before you even launch it. With that kind of investment of both

design of sunglasses models, but it seems more fluid at SALT..

time and resources, you really need to have conviction for what

Every style at SALT. is designed to take prescription lenses. We

you’re making.

want to give our consumers and optical retail partners as many

You just made, and released, the new C2-22 Collection. How many pieces are in the collection? For this one we did 44 new SKUs, across eleven new styles.

options as possible, and offering these frames both ways provides them with a lot of options. How is this concept working out for you? SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

183

SALT. »Hancock«

»Hancock«

be as a sunglass, but there are consumers who like that look as a bolder optical frame. We want to give our optical retail partners the option to satisfy those customers as well. Does the C2-22 collection bring new and unique design features to the mix? Yes, we’re designing with not only style, but also function and especially optics in mind. As opticians, we were always frustrated that it seemed many designs were just based on looks and not performance. How do you solve that? Our goal is to combine the two – style and function. There are several features that are built into the design to ensure the integrity

»Grays«

of the lens, our Japanese material selection and manufacturing support the approach. We want to make frames that enhance the style and optics of the wearer. In terms of materials, you mentioned that you are again relying on Japanese acetate. Is that still an important quality feature for you? Absolutely. It’s the best acetate in the world, and we only want to

»Grays« Did you know? Most of the timeless pieces from SALT. are also available in a sunglasses version.

produce that level of quality. What can be said about the color palette of the new collection? We’ve been working closely with our Japanese acetate partners to develop proprietary colors that only exist at SALT. Each collection includes a few new SALT. colorways that you won’t find anywhere else in eyewear. At the same time, we want our core color palette to reflect the same authenticity of quality and timeless style that we put into the frames.

If you look back at the history of eyewear, the most iconic styles

An essential part of your brand DNA is the durability of your pro-

were often offered as both optical and sunglasses. SALT. continu-

ducts. But that leaves fewer reasons for existing customers to buy

es that tradition. We do have styles that are offered as sun only,

new glasses. How can you convince a SALT. fan to buy from the

and we love them, but it’s a delicate balance to design something

new collection?

that will fit a great number of people and serve both purposes. Would you say that it makes your portfolio more coherent?

mers want to update their glasses every couple of years or so.

We don’t want our optical and sun collections to look and fit as

But SALT. is providing value beyond that. If you’re someone who

though they come from different companies. There should be a

wants a new style every few years, that’s great. Even better, your

commonality to the design, and that will overlap at times.

old SALT. frame will still be in good shape and ready for updated

Consequently, your optical collection features shapes otherwise

lenses as a spare pair of glasses. On the other hand, if you want

dominant in the sunglasses segment, like the »Hancock« aviator

to keep the timeless look you’ve settled on, and wear the same

with a double bridge. Does that appeal more to fashion-motivated

frame for decades, that is absolutely possible with SALT. This isn’t

consumers?

a claim all brands can honestly make, and we’re very proud to

That’s exactly right, and it goes back to giving our consumers options. You’re correct that the foremost purpose of that style will 184

That’s a great question. I’d be willing to bet you that most consu-

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

back it. Thanks for the interview.

saltoptics.com

a story by HANIBALL

photography PHILIPP KÖHLER creative direction, styling & set design HANIBALL SALIBA hair & make-up CLAUDIA FISCHER

production FABRIKA photo assistants DARIIA MIGALOVA & VITALIY SOROKA models KEISY at MODELWERK & KILIAN at CORE MODEL MANAGEMENT

ON US

SPECTR

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SALIBA & PHILIPP KÖHLER [Berlin]

EYES

ALL

SALT. »Hancock« -

suit BALDESSARINI shirt FALKE

belt STRELLSON

SALT. »Livingston«

SALT. »Jefferson«

SALT. »Grays«

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BARTON PERREIRA »Kleos«

BARTON PERREIRA »Claudel«

BARTON PERREIRA »Yarner« 188

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BARTON PERREIRA »Emelie« blazer TIGER OF SWEDEN top ESPRIT trousers MARC CAIN shoes COS

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MODO »4109« shirt SELECTED HOMME tshirt UNIQLO trousers & shoes COS socks FALKE

190

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MODO »Tau«

MODO »4554«

MODO »4553«

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FACE A FACE »Quartz 1«

FACE A FACE »Havane 1«

FACE A FACE »Havane 2«

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FACE A FACE »Quartz 2« suit MASSIMO DUTTI shirt MAVI JEANS

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MARKUS T »Dot Mono L1024« -

polo shirt FALKE trousers DICKIES belt TOD’S

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MARKUS T »Mio P1020«

MARKUS T »Mio P1024«

MARKUS T »Mio P1015«

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LUNOR »M14 01«

LUNOR »M9 07«

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LUNOR »M9 01«

LUNOR »Classic Panatomic« dress COSTER COPENHAGEN bracelet SABRINA DEHOFF

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photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

WORDS WITH A MESSAGE FROM ALLPOETS

THE SUST AINAB ILITY APPR OACH

ALLPOETS is the name of the latest brand started by Spanish Etnia

Eyewear Culture Group. The young label jumps into the fray with a clear positioning: ALLPOETS is all about maintaining the smallest possible eco footprint. Sustainability serves as the main pillar behind the company philosophy and fundamental element of the brand DNA. Based on this approach, ALLPOETS has managed to attract a young fan community, as detailed in our SPECTR interview with Eduard Pitarch, Global Marketing Director at Etnia Eyewear Culture Group. Poets are making a statement. ALLPOETS takes a leading role in sustainable manufacturing.

198

SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

ALLPOETS »Cocteau«

»Fuertes«

»Hugo«

Hi Edu, ALLPOETS is a fairly young brand. When did you make your

aspect of sustainability as another attribute of the brand. But in

first pair of glasses?

our case, it is the backbone.

That was two years ago. We started testing recyclable materials

How do you approach the topic in a tangible way?

and we clearly saw that the subject warranted the creation of a

We know that by 2050 we must have reversed the effects of

brand fully focused on this future-oriented segment.

climate change, or we will all suffer the consequences. We used

On that note, what was the initial spark for ALLPOETS and your reasoning behind launching a new brand under the Etnia umbrella? Bill Gates’ book How to Avoid Climate Change was clearly an

to think it was some theory, but every year we see natural disasters and rising temperatures that are not normal. Where is the connection between your sustainable mission and the brand name, ALLPOETS?

eye-opener. The climate crisis is a fact, and we have evidence of

We believe that a poet is anyone who raises their voice to say or

growing consumer interest in responsible products. We clearly

denounce something. The philosophy behind the brand is very

see the impact in segments such as food and fashion, but the

naturalistic, inspired by nature and its poetics. Studying the beha-

optical segment seems reluctant to embrace this reality. It’s only

vior of young people, we realized they are more aware of what

a matter of time before the end consumer will demand 100%

is happening to the planet than we are. And their way of commu-

responsible products. ALLPOETS is a brand that acts as a loudspea-

nicating through quotes and song verses is very similar to the

ker. If we can inspire other brands to do the same, it is already a

language of poets. ALLPOETS is our way of saying that the new

success.

generations are more idealistic than we are and are willing to fight

But aren’t almost all brands today trying to operate sustainably? Yes, many brands are doing greenwashing and communicate the

with more certainty for this issue than previous generations were. In which areas do sustainability aspects manifest at ALLPOETS? SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE

199

ALLPOETS »Cortazar«

The natural color palette is primarily aimed at a young and conscious consumer demographic.

»Lowell«

Mainly in the materials of the eyewear and our packaging. Please explain in more detail, Edu. We use ISCC-certified acetate which indicates that it is carbon neutral. This is possible thanks to Mazzucchelli’s partnership with Eastman.

Back to the products, do you have a special design language? In the ALLPOETS design department, our design is based on an understanding of the consumption of minimalist basics by new generations. Is there also a certain color DNA?

To what extent are your manufacturing processes more sustain-

The ALLPOETS color palette is much more natural, inspired by the

able than those of other brands?

colors of nature.

Basically, we substitute the percentage of plasticizer in the

You mentioned that you’re addressing a rather ‘new’ and young

acetate with plant-based plasticizer, so we reduce the oil in the

target group. Is this target group particularly receptive to sustain-

frame to zero.

ability issues?

Are there other areas besides production where you follow your

Absolutely, yes. Besides, one of the problems of young people is,

ecological responsibility?

at least in Spain, the difficult access to work. There is a polarization

The main part of the company where we have already eliminated

around purchasing power. Young people cannot access certain

single-use plastic entirely is the packaging. We replaced plastic

things based on price. So the entry price points for ALLPOETS and

with materials derived from corn and recycled materials are used throughout the company. How about sustainability at your offices? Yes, the kitchen that we have just created at Etnia HQ is certified by EcoCook. It is the first certified responsible kitchen, in terms of foods and processes that are followed, in Barcelona.

the positioning is a direct response to them. But just making sure, older people can also wear your glasses? Of course they can! It is not an exclusive collection but inclusive, the age range is still wide, perfectly suited from 16 to 60. Thanks for the interview. www.allpoets.com

MOD. 16026-524

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

NEW ON

COLLAB ORATIVE VISION

SASHEE SCHUSTER & DIETER FUNK In the indie eyewear universe, German label DIETER FUNK masters the rare feat of blending traditional manufacturing processes with timeless and always current designs. The brand’s founder and namesake Dieter Funk has been running this successful formula since the 1990s. But that’s just half of the story: The other half revolves around Dieter’s partner in life and business, Sashee Schuster. The eyewear designer has a unique process for implementing wild floral elements into gorgeous eyewear and carved out a unique niche for

SASHEE SCHUSTER »Lotte«

the label SASHEE SCHUSTER.

»Arnulf«

»Rosalie«

»Erna«

DIETER FUNK »Hardiknut«

»Berthold« 202

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

the Isar river, bathing in Bibisee lake, and eating traditional fruit cakes in the style of his home region. Lots of great daddydaughter moments. Looking at your history, the FUNK label really made a name for itself with eccentric sunglasses designs. How would you describe the design DNA of these early FUNK glasses?

Can you briefly describe what brought you to the eyewear industry? Dieter: I was rather technically oriented as a kid. When the time came to attend technical high school, my parents wanted me to study electrical engineering. But I resisted and opted for an apprenticeship instead to learn a trade. I had to choose between cook, dental technician, and optician. So I became an optician and that was a good choice. During early training I already noticed that one aspect attracted me in particular: constructing frames. So that path opened up for me quite clearly and the rest is history!

SASHEE SCHUSTER – Deliciously playful but fit for everyday wear.

Dieter: Keeping in mind that this happe-

DIETER FUNK – detailed frames crafted by

ned in the early 1990s, anything that was

hand in Bavaria.

somewhat ‘normal’ had absolutely no chance on the market. That’s why I came

Dieter: It’s really been a dream come true.

out with an initial collection that was so

I already had the dream of setting up my

out of left field and almost unwearable

own factory as an apprentice. Then the

that it created the necessary level of

time was ripe in 2006. We had enough

attention. That was the birth of FUNK sun-

space, but were missing the machinery

glasses. This was also the time of techno,

and trained personnel. At the time, there

raves, Love Parade and with a name like

was somewhat of a shockwave in the

this, you had to be FUNKY in order to

Chinese industry, when several smaller

shake up the market and get noticed.

workshops closed. So, we reached out

Part of your shared story is the move to

through our Chinese agent and bought up

rural Bavaria to create your own manu-

some eyewear machinery in bankruptcy

facturing facility and of course your own

estate sales. Most of these machines

home. How did that come about?

were “Made in Italy”, so we really just

Sashee: During our rebellious years

brought them back to Europe.

in the 1990s and early 2000s we lived

You’re also running a “transparent work-

together in the heart of Munich. But then

shop” that’s open to public view at your

in 2000, we had the desire to make a

headquarters. Do you have many opticians

fundamental return into eyewear design

dropping by to witness the production?

in an uncompromising way, with our own

Sashee: Yes! And we not only have the

manufacture facility. Moving into the new

transparent workshop, but the FUNK

headquarters in the small town of Kinsau

Optik Store in Berlin Mitte also produces

was a big change for the better. We finally

its own eyewear. Here in Kinsau, we get

had enough space for all the eyeglasses

lots of people that learn on their guided

and our creative ideas. Plus, working

tour just how elaborate the manufacturing

with the best eyewear manufacturers and

process really is. There are lots of advan-

technicians.

tages for us.

Dieter: Yes, making the move from Munich

On that note, what are the main advanta-

Sashee: Due to my own vision deficiency

to rural Kinsau in 2002 was one of the

ges of your own factory workshop?

and a ‘blind date’, I ended up meeting

greatest milestones in our history. We

Dieter: The ability to test-drive new

Dieter. And with him, I was introduced

finally had sufficient space for making the

designs rather quickly. And total indepen-

to eyewear. Since then, we’ve been an

next dream a reality: Our own eyewear

dence from external manufacturers, since

eyewear tag team. What actually started

factory! It started in an old farmer’s house

we have full control over the kinds of

me designing frames was that I wanted to

from the 17th century, and in 2017 we

models we want to prioritize in finalization

pay tribute to my father and released my

relocated into the new annex building

and shipment.

first collection of glasses, Daddycated, in

that we planned and envisioned oursel-

his memory. My dad was born in 1925 and

ves. Other milestones included our own

I often had the feeling that he was well

clothing and bag label, as well as an ex-

ahead of his time in many ways. Unfor-

treme sports collection of sunglasses as

tunately, I lost him quite early on. When

well as a presence at fashion and sports

I think back, I see the two of us in the

tradeshows.

woods foraging for mushrooms. I remem-

What has changed since you realized your

ber building sandcastles on the shores of

own manufacturing?

www.funkeyewear.com

Virtually try-on DIETER FUNK

Virtually try-on SASHEE SCHUSTER

FAVRSPECS.COM

S P E C T R / / N E W O N FAV R

203

KLENZE & BAUM »Floyd«

MOVING FORWARD THE SLEEK WAY »Kilby«

»Jones«

main photo RAPHAEL SCHMITZ, detail photos GERHARDT KELLERMANN

ECOLUCENT: WORLD’S FIRST

terial made from vegetable oil, meaning

TRANSLUCENT ECO 3D-PRINT MATERIAL

renewable, raw materials. We have called

KLENZE & BAUM LAUNCHES NEW MATERIAL AND TECHNOLOGY

Sustainability is an integral part of your brand DNA and guides all your product

Aurélien: The special properties unlock,

developments. What’s your motivation?

for the first time in 3D-printed eyeglass

Stefan: Anyone who decides to use

frames, a slightly translucent aesthetic.

3D-printing in eyewear manufacturing is

This effect is more pronounced with ligh-

already putting major emphasis on sustai-

ter colors. Looking ahead, this innovation

nability. The process allows excess mate-

foreshadows that 3D-printing will achieve

The innovations continue. Munich-based label

rial to be largely reused for the next print.

an increasingly wide range of looks, as

KLENZE & BAUM launches the new Sleek

Waste is collected and used in manufac-

the transparency of the material increa-

collection, introducing new breakthroughs in

turing other polyamide products. Regio-

ses. KLENZE & BAUM would like to blaze

terms of materials and fit. Milestones include

nally sourced production in on-demand

a trail so that lovers of acetate frames can

sustainable manufacturing, addition of a

format ensures short delivery times and,

soon find something to their taste in 3D-

translucent material as well as individually ad-

above all, a favorable eco footprint.

printing. Our Ecolucent material is used in

justable temple tips. SPECTR gets the update

Now you’re taking things to the next level

eight models in the new Sleek collection.

from CEOs Stefan Roesinger and Aurélien

Ecolucent. What are the drivers? with Ecolucent

More models will follow next fall.

Mierswa. 204

it Ecolucent. What does it offer?

S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

Aurélien: This marks our first use of a ma-

Virtually try-on KLENZE & BAUM FAVRSPECS.COM

The Easy Way: Adjusting the temple length

Ecolucent by KLENZE & BAUM: A translucent material created via 3D-printing.

with the Steel Pill.

SHORTER TEMPLE TIPS WITH UNIQUE

length themselves: A decorative cap

Once Upon A Future, we’re having fun

STEEL PILL

made of metal at the end of the temples,

seeing how we’re already matching the

the Steel Pill, can be unscrewed and the

future with our current technology. Sup-

Your brand already turned heads with un-

3D-printed temple thereby shortened as

plemented by all kinds of surprises that

conventional and innovative technical fea-

desired. The pill is then screwed back on,

we will encounter in our future everyday

tures such as your reconstructable hinge or

without damaging the aesthetics.

lives. We want to invite everyone to follow

the metal inserts in the temples. What’s the

Kind of a self-made customization process?

us on Instagram (@klenzebaum). Our new

Aurélien: Yes. Plus, offering the advan-

look book will also expand on the theme.

Aurélien: Indeed, in the Sleek collection

tage that the Steel Pill is available in

We are really looking forward to this crea-

there is another development. Until now,

four metal colorways to match the metal

tive spectacle!

if wearers wanted to change the temple

hinges.

other innovation in the new line?

length of a fully 3D-printed frame, the only

How do you communicate these two inno-

option was to order individually manu-

vative features?

factured glasses, printed with shorter

Stefan: We’re accompanying the launch

temples.

of the Sleek collection with an exciting

How are you changing the paradigm?

klenzebaum.com

and entertaining simulation of the future:

Aurélien: KLENZE & BAUM has now deve-

We travel ahead in time to follow the

loped a brand-new technology that allows

everyday life of our eyewear manufacture

opticians to easily shorten the temple

in the future. Along our concept theme S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

205

REAL SURF STYLE

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Virtually try on RAEN FAVRSPECS.COM

Understated details meet green, polarized Carl Zeiss lenses to elevate the California lifestyle brand’s clean designs.

RAEN COLLABO WITH MIKEY FEBRUARY California based label RAEN (pronounced ‘rain’) was born within the

For the latest sunglasses collection, Zafrique Ensemble, RAEN

surf lifestyle and retains close ties to the culture. With a strong roo-

worked in close collaboration with South African surfer Mikey February.

tedness in nature, the brand relies on handcrafted artisan work, from

February’s creative input and artistic spirit shine throughout the entire

the first sketch to the final polish. Making frames by hand is the only

collection. As a guiding principle, he wanted the eyewear styles to re-

way for RAEN to manifest the brand DNA, spirit of the employees and

flect his personal mindset. And that’s a broad claim: Because on one

surf culture roots in a credible manner. While RAEN also cultivates a

hand, February is a clean and minimalist performance surfer. And on

premium optical collection, the company based in coastal Oceanside

the other hand, he cultivates an alter ego influenced by South African

grew up with close ties to sunglasses.

music and art. A perfect fit for RAEN and tremendous fit for working on the Zafrique Collection.

The Zafrique Collection is a stylish collab with South African surfer Mikey February.

206

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

RAEN »Remmy« The »Remmy« is a round retro sunglasses style with modern style appeal. Available in two sizes: the original 52 is a touch larger and conquers the perfectly oversized look for women, while the 49 is a slightly refined fit suited best for males.

»Aren« The angular »Aren« frame makes a case for elegance with a slightly narrow fit. It lends a modern twist to the classic silhouette. The strong lines, subtle sculpted acetate and slight nod to the 1990s makes this frame a must-have for anyone looking for an exceptional pair of sunnies.

»Myles« The iconic and timeless »Myles« frame is easy on the eyes and versatile enough to complement a wide range of personal styles. While the vintage silhouette is instantly recognizable, »Myles« packs a modern nuance and flair. In other words, the perfect combo for stylish men and women alike.

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

207

RAEN »Mystiq« Built to make a statement, »Mystiq« reflects Mikey February’s passion for the cosmic jazz of the 1960s and 1970s. The striking, square shape with an oversized silhouette fits unisex wearers looking to make a self-confident appearance.

»Phonos« »Phonos« is Mikey’s interpretation of our Modern Classic design philosophy. The frame draws on the typical RAEN proportions while adding a wider fit and softly curved outlines. The model is finished by hand with a signature fin temple design, beveled details, expertly hand polished, with five-barrel rivet hinges.

The Zafrique Collection was made by hand and produced from the highest-grade cellulose acetate, originating from renewable resources like wood pulp and cotton fiber. Cellulose acetate retains its color impeccably over time because its hue is embedded in the material, preventing peeling, fading, and discoloration. Each front shape is cut from a single sheet. In terms of color palette, the Zafrique Collection pays special attention to rich colorways by using Huru, a custom tortoise acetate created by RAEN with Mikey. Huru models are finished with Polarized Green lenses by Carl Zeiss Vision. The lenses are resistant to scratches and The tortoise colorway Huru imple-

wear, perfect for long days on the beach. For this photo shoot, Design Director and RAEN Co-Founder Jordan Percy picked the following gems from the Zafrique Collection. www.raen.eu 208

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

ments the colorway directly into the material, preventing colors from fading over time.

OPTICALLY GLAZABLE Unbreakable frames and lenses – glazable in individual prescription

COLD ADJUSTMENT OF THE TEMPLES The patented INCLINOX technology enables cold adjustment of the temples in seconds

Gi31 Amsterdam

gloryfy unbreakable eyewear – made in Austria from the innovative and patented special material NBFX. Developed, designed & produced in the middle of the Alps, in Tirol/Zillertal. Make an appointment with our sales team by phone 0043 5288 72800 or mail office@gloryfy.com

GÖTTI »Flynn«

GÖTTI »Dagley«

blazer YOUNG POETS SOCIETY

dress JOSEPH

turtleneck ARKET

210

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THE SKY BETTIES [Berlin]

photography DIANE

models LELIA & YVAN at TAKE 3 MANAGEMENT

hair & make-up CLAUDIA FISCHER

styling DAVOR JELUSIC & ANA MARIJA KNEZEVIC

UNDER

ALL

211

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NIRVAN JAVAN SHADES OF TORONTO »04:10:02 (EST)« earrings PILGRIM

212

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MASUNAGA »KO-93U« sweater TIGER OF SWEDEN

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213

SILHOUETTE »Aventura 3193 75 8530« -

trenchcoat DESIGNERS REMIX shirt JOSEPH earrings COS

214

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ROBERT LA ROCHE »Robert« -

turtleneck ARKET

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215

VYCOZ »DR9009« top IPEKYOL earrings PILGRIM

216

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VYCOZ »SOSS« outfit SANDRO

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217

REIZ »Kreide« dress ZARA earrings MANGO

218

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REIZ »Quarz« coat MARTIN ASBJØRN shirt SANDRO

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COLIBRIS »Zera« dress PROENZA SCHOULER earrings PILGRIM

220

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DISCOVER THE NEW COLLECTION www.woodyseyewear.com

@WOODYSEYEWEAR

MIND

styling SOPHIE PFUHLER hair & make-up NICOLA KURDZIEL set design LEONI EDITH KOLBECK models AKIDOR DOYE at MIRRRS & MALINA at MIHA

RODENSTOCK »R 7128«

SISTERS

IN VOL.II

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GROSSMANN [Berlin]

photography JESSICA

pants WEEKDAY

blouse CRUBA

RODENSTOCK »R 7125« sweater ANNA LÖSEL earrings JOSE ANGLADA pants LEVI’S

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ETNIA BARCELONA »Eleonora« outfit DANNY REINKE jewelry JOSE ANGLADA

ETNIA BARCELONA »Iva« outfit ANNA LOESEL

224

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METROPOLITAN »8272« jacket CRUBA

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225

LINDBERG thintanium »5516« blouse DANNY REINKE pants CRUBA jewelry JOSE ANGLADA

226

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LINDBERG thintanium »5514« blouse KOLLEKTION ALTEPOST vest VINTAGE pants WEEKDAY

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227

MINAMOTO »MN31003« -

sweater ANNA LÖSEL earrings JOSE ANGLADA

228

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MINAMOTO »MN31011« -

blouse VINTAGE

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KOBERG »KT 6035« blouse VINTAGE

230

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KOBERG »KT 6045« dress ANNA LÖSEL jewelry JOSE ANGLADA

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VYCOZ »JOSS«

VYCOZ »ROSS« blouse ASOS earrings JOSE ANGLADA

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Blackfin Brand Profile And Exclusive Interview