15,–EUR//English// 2022September//36 No. SPECTR MAGAZINEFASHIONEYEWEARINTERNATIONAL
Swissness.andquality,confidence,stylisticofexpressionunequivocalanisItlevel.highesttheatinnovationstechnicalwithcraftsmanshiptraditionalunifiedhaveglassesGötti1998,Since gotti.ch476078244T+41contact@gotti.chSwitzerlandGöttiCP04ChainEyewearandRR01OR2,PerspectiveGötti
100col.1AALTO/faceaface-paris.com
AALTO LIMITED EDITION
#SEETHEWORLD
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PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS
NOCERA & FERRI [London]
AVA PIVOT [Berlin]
PUBLISHER
FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]
FRANCA RAINER online@spectr-magazine.com[Berlin]
WILLIAM FERCHICHI [London]
PRINT Feld Kienberg,
TRANSLATION
ANDREA KADLER [Hamburg]
NARÈNTE //
MICHAEL BÖTTIGER [Berlin]
LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia]
PIETRO GROFF [Berlin]
PATRICK WALTER [Berlin]
STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK
CEOS
F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser
LAYOUT
JESSICA GROSSMANN [Berlin]
DAVOR JELUSIC [Berlin]
EDITOR IN CHIEF
PROOFREADING
ONLINE EDITOR
STEFAN DONGUS m:dongus@spectr-magazine.com[Cologne]+49.(0)151.14271817
FLO NITSCH [Berlin]
2 83361
SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich]
HANIBALL SALIBA [Berlin]
ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin]
PETER ASHFORD [London]
EDITORIAL STAFF
RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf ]
Deutschland fw-medien.de SPECTR // IMPRINT40 COVER PHOTOS photography ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin] assistant MATEUSZ FROLENKO styling JAKOB SCHÄFER hair & make-up MELANIE HOPPE models PAULINA & JOHANN at TWO MANAGEMENT SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permis sion from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opini ons reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved. “The Times They Are A-Changin'” by Patrick Walter (pages 64 – 74) CUTLER AND GROSS »9101«
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COLORSTALGIA MEETS CALLIGRAPHY NATHALIE BLANC 2022 Highlights
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58
By Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter 114
46
THE MOREL LEGACY 140 Years Of Independent Eyewear Design 94
THE FUTURE IS NOW
54
BUILT TO BE LIGHT LOOL X Naoto Fukusawa
TimelessSPECTR // CONTENT 41
The First Ambassador Of Virtuality
OFF THE WALL LINDBERG Collection Shoot by Ulrich Hartmann 120
THE FEMININE APPROACH
New OLIVER PEOPLES Campaign Ready For Boarding
SIZE DOES MATTER
A SAFE HAVN
NEW ON FAVR HAFFMANS NEUMEISTER & YOU MAWO
THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN’
By Patrick Walter 76 PROMISED YOU A ROSEGARDEN
GÖTTI Collection Shoot by Narente
UNDERNEATH THE PURPLE RAIN
THE SURREALISTIC APPROACH Ignasi Monreal X ETNIA BARCELONA Vol. II 98
CAROLINE ABRAM – Women’s Hearts Beat Faster 124 THE CREATOR
ØRGREEN Stainless Steel Collection Shoot By William134Ferchichi
By Ava Pivot
TRADITION REINVENTED
Campaign Award For a MAYBACH EYEWEAR And Mercedes-Benz Co-Production 128
NINETEEN SIXTIES
88
KEEPT IT REAL REIZ – Continuity Is
48
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GIGI STUDIOS Merges Eyewear Design And Fashion 102
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Collaborations are a hot trend everywhere you look – even in the eyewear industry. Eyewear labels are increasingly cooperating with designers from other industries. That doesn’t just bring fresh ideas into established design paradigms, it also introduces us to exciting new stories. After all, collaborating big-name partners from the fashion, art, product design and architecture industries have their own unique design skills to contribute.
Our current edition #36 features collaborations by numerous brands: ETNIA BARCELONA, LOOL, MASUNAGA, MAYBACH & NATHALIE BLANC. Their stories make an exciting read. MAYBACH took it parti cularly far in their work with Mercedes-Benz, going beyond product design to collaborate on matching advertising themes for their cam paigns.That’s not the only way that collaborations are driving innovation, though. For example, brands are also cooperating with their new partners to distribute their collaborative products. NIRVAN JAVAN’s new sunglasses collection isn’t just available at optical shops, but also select stores of their lifestyle brand partner Monocle.
SD “COOPERATION”TOISSUE#36 SPECTR // EDITORIAL “The Times They Are A-Changin’” by Patrick Walter (pages 64 – 74) CUTLER AND GROSS »1386« Scan QR code for the free Reporting Portal or visit: https://fvrspcs.com/reporting-home-en
Together with the large number of associated brands and opticians, our many users create digital footprints that offer fascinating insights into the world of premium eyewear that are unique in scope. Starting now, we will be sharing these insights with brands and opticians to boost the digital know-how and the visibility of the independent eye wear industry. This is our contribution to the cooperation that we’ve been working toward for over two years. Sharing is caring. We wish you every success with the FAVR reports, included alongside the current edition of SPECTR for your enjoyment.
The platform FAVR – PREMIUM EYEWEAR FINDER represents a best practice example for collaboration and brand partnership. 16,000 independent opticians and 70 premium brands work together on favrspecs.com to offer FAVR’s 50,000 visitors the most beautiful and sought-after eyewear on the market. Speaking of brands, we’ve incorporated two new brands – HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER and YOU MAWO – into our portfolio. That’s exciting news not just for consu mers, but also for the many opticians who stock their collections. We’ve included a curated selection of the new products in this edition.
By Haniball Saliba & Flo Nitsch 172
PANOPTIKUM BERLIN BY Pietro Groff & Davor
By Ulrich216Hartmann
A SENSE OF JAPAN MINAMOTO Impresses With Japanese Tradition 244
REMEMBER WINDY TOWN
By Nocera & Ferri
WORKING CLASS HEROES
SMELLS LIKE TEEN SPIRIT
J.F. REY Collection Shoot By William Ferchichi 200
COME AS YOU ARE KOBERG Highlights 2022 250
THE FUSION
136
152
STEP BY STEP FOR THE BETTER New Products From ECO 220 TMA – THE ICON SILHOUETTE Tinted Lenses By Ava Pivot 226
NIRVAN JAVAN Launches Colorful Sunglasses Collection 190
JelusicSPECTR // CONTENT 43
SHADES OF TORONTO X MONOCLES
VISIBLY INVISIBLE LITHE Goes254Beta-Titanium
FAVR ESSENTIALS
THE NUMBER CRUNCHERS
VERY KOREAN VYCOZ Is 160Coming
156
DECADES OF DESIGN
ONCE IN A BLUE MOON By Jessica184Grossmann
How Opticians can profit from FAVR statistics 230
New MATERIKA Highlights From LOOK-MADE IN ITALIA
148
By Andrea Kadler 242
URBAN DESIGN FOR STRONG CHARACTERS METROPOLITAN FW 2022 Highlights 252
JAPANESE EYEWEAR FASHION AT ITS BEST MASUNAGA | K3 194
FEATHERLIGHT MAGNESIUM
FLEYE Celebrates 20 Years Of Existence 204
SPECIFIC STYLES FOR PEOPLE WITH STYLE IC! BERLIN’s New 2022 Frames
GÖTTI »Alesi«
SPECTR // FUTURE TALK44
become imperceptible. With the creation of Ava, the benefits and potential of computer generated imagery can be harnessed for the fashion and the eyewear industries. Ava is always available, looks great, and is always in a good mood. Every style suits her, and she is always where you need her – here and where you are.
artwork VERCE SPECTR // FUTURE TALK 45
AVA VERCE –THE AMBASSADORFIRST OF VIRTUALITY IN EYEWEAR
After publishing countless photos of real people over the past 12 years, a virtual model is presenting a pair of glasses in SPECTR for the first time. The results are frightening and exciting at the same time. They show us what’s already possible, and they give us an idea of what the future will bring. Ava is the start of the future of fashion and lifestyle photography.Avawasdeveloped by VERCE, a CGI studio specializing in the development of virtual models for the fashion industry. The difference between it and the real world has
Ava’s journey into the metaverse has only just begun. If you’d like to be a part of that journey, you can follow Ava’s Instagram profile: @ava.verce
Here and where you are – that’s model Ava Verce’s motto, seen here presenting a femi nine eyewear model by GÖTTI to us. That’s despite the fact that these shots are Ava’s first as an eyewear model – nothing special, so far. What does make these pictures unique is that they aren’t the result of a pho toshoot in the classical sense. This shoot didn’t include a professional photographer, a stylist, or a hair and makeup artist. What’s more – Ava may be a fashion and art model, but she isn’t made of flesh and blood. Ava is a virtual model.
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»Verdul« is the sculptural, overthe-top model – created to make a splash on red carpets all over the world.
SPECTR // NEW ON FAVR46
www.haffmansneumeister.com
»Luc«
From the Neapolitan Collection, »Gaia« offers a delicate and wide expres sion with an ornamental design along the sides.
The frames of the Neapolitan Collection are an homage to the 80s. They are only available in glossy gold, with lenses in three different tints: Oat, Fox, and Jade. The high-end Zeiss lenses provide complete protection from UV, making them the perfect accessory anywhere, whether you’re on the beach or out for a night on the town.
HAFFMANS NEUMEISTER is releasing its first eyewear designs to be admired on FAVR. For its debut, the Berlin designer label has curated three frames for us; two from the re-release of their very successful collab with New York star-stylist Marcus Paul and one new model from their Neapolitan Collection.
The collaboration with Marcus Paul features a bold silhouette, paired with the delicate steel frame that’s typical of HN. The two oversized models are available in Jade and Lavender, colors created by acetate expert Mazzucchelli. Jade is inspired by the Asian stone of the same name, famous for its mythical healing properties. Lavender was inspired by the gorgeous lavender fields of France’s Provence. The models stand out with their chunky frames made from durable acetate to create a sculpture-like look.
»Gaia«
Virtually try NEUMEISTERHAFFMANSon FAVRSPECS.COM ONNEW photos SCHMITZRAPHAEL
NEW STYLES IN THE COLLABXCOLLECTIONNEAPOLITANMARCUSPAUL NEUMEISTERHAFFMANSFROMNOVELTIES
NEUMEISTERHAFFMANS
»Verdul«
The model »Luc« is the gender fluid option in the collab with Marcus Paul: multifaceted, with a flat and broad look, designed for both him and her.
The »Sagano« model features a more subdued and feminine panto shape, that reduces the design down to its essentials and appeals with the same dimensionality that defines the Bold Collection. The »Sagano« is named after the famous bamboo forest of that name near Kyoto, Japan.
The custom-made glasses are made to fit the exact topography of the customer’s face, which is measured using an infrared scanner. This precise scanning technology allows them to customize and adjust the basic designs of YOU MAWO to accommodate each customer’s individual features. The final product results from the interaction of people, technology, and craftsmanship. Now, you can admire their best and most beautiful models right here on FAVR – three of them here as a sneak peek.
»Pan« is a progressive model that hearkens back to the styles of the 1970s. It’s a model that looks unfamiliar at first, but that also works incredibly well on most faces. The »Pan« model is named for Saturn’s moon of the same name, which was in turn named after the mythical Pan offolklore.Greek
NEW STYLES FROM YOU MAWO
www.youmawo.com
photos
»Sagano«
YOU MAWO is an acronym for Your Magic World, referring to the magical world that their 3D printed glasses bring fans into. The German brand has developed an incredible amount of expertise in 3D printing, allowing YOU MAWO to use their additive manufacturing technology to accommodate the needs of each customer individually. Moreover, it means that the entire production process is performed locally in Germany – including the sourcing of local raw materials with a reduced carbon footprint.
»Pan«
INDIVIDUALTHEAPPROACH
Virtually try on YOU MAWO FAVRSPECS.COM
YOU MAWO
SPECTR // NEW ON FAVR 47
»Avalon«
»Avalon« is a classical unisex panto shape without a keyhole feature, which gives it a modern and clean look. The model is elegant and modern despite its historical roots – the »Avalon« is named after the mythical island from the legend of King Arthur.
SCHMITZRAPHAEL
SPEC TR // COLLECTION SHOOT48 GÖTTI »Ubee«blazer VINTAGE YSL crop top STUDIO VERTICE GÖTTI »Cutty«shirt SUPERDRY
styling&castingphotography, ERREFRANCO+ARULUCIO//NARÈNTE ][Sardinia make-up&hair DESSÌDANIELA models SORRENTIVIRGINIA & GRIVELRICCARDO at REPRESENTSLA Virtually try on GÖTTI FAVRSPECS.COM
The GÖTTI Dimension collection has be come an important part of and a beautiful complement to our existing offering.
In your experience over the past few years, what are the advantages of 3D printed eyewear?
In our current collection shoot, we’re presenting several new models and colors from the GÖTTI Dimension Series. Made in a 3D printer, the Swiss designer brand’s models have established a significant following over the past 7 years, appealing especially to tech-savvy customers. Sven Götti offers us a masterclass in additive precision made in Switzerland and shows us which dimensions we can expect this season.
You also see this as a way to conserve resources though, right?
Hi Sven, when did you develop the first Dimension models?
3D - GÖTTI DIMENSION
Our first exposure to 3D printing was in 2015, when we had 3D printed prototypes made for an injection molding project. I was immediately fascinated by the mate rial properties, so we decided to launch a 3D printed collection. How has the collection evolved since then regarding its importance to you, but also your customers?
What we really enjoy is producing eve rything completely in-house. Over the years, we have built up an enormous amount of knowledge about program ming, the pitfalls of 3D printing and about surface treatment. As a result, we can now customize the proportions of every pair of glasses for the customer, maintai ning an on-demand inventory.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT 49
done right here onsite, but assembly is managed with the support of some found ations for people with disabilities – which is really gratifying for everyone involved. What kinds of possibilities does the light ness of the material present in the design process?
Are there going to be any new colors?
Absolutely. We don’t have any excess production and we can make everything in-house – from the initial prototypes to customer orders. With the Dimension collection, we brought production back to Switzerland, which is something we’re especially proud of. Are the shorter shipping distances also significant in that sense?
There are no limits for us. Our more solidlooking frames tend to astonish custo mers with how light they are. Moreover, even thinner elements have incredible
material properties.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT50
jumpsuit STUDIO VERTICE
ARMANI VINTAGE shirt RHUIGI X ZARA
You’ve already mentioned flexibility and the wide range of available variations, but how many new models are you going to add to the current collection?
The collection is going to have twelve new models, but we are also going to discontinue a few older ones. This helps us to keep the collection current and streamlined.
»Campo«
The production of our eyewear occurs entirely within our local region. Mostly it’s
GÖTTI raincoat»Costa«
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT 51 GÖTTI »Flynn«blazer STUDIO VERTICE shirt LACOSTE GÖTTI »Foster« cardigan & top STUDIO VERTICE »Finch«raincoat COLLUSION top STUDIO VERTICE »Ferrer«raincoat RAINS shirt STUDIO VERTICE
Are there any new technical features?
dress»Sadry« VINTAGE
Can you point to a specific target market, that is going to be reaching for one of the
GÖTTI
That’s possible, since the base material is white. After that comes a multi-stage sur face treatment before the frame is dyed
through immersion in a high-pressure, six-hour process.
www.gotti.ch SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT52 polo»Costa«shirt COS pants
top»Sabia«
Is every model categorically going to be available in every color, then?
STUDIO VERTICE shirt & pants MAX MARA
new Dimension models? Are there any differences compared to the usual GÖTTI customers?
Thank you. STUDIO VERTICE
Yes! We are going to introduce four exci ting new colors. We’ve spent a long time working on them, so we’re very excited about these new additions.
We love technical innovation. In light of that, we’re going to be introducing a new, very thin temple, which the new models are, of course, going to feature.
What we’re noticing, is that tech-oriented people in every age group are especially excited about the material. It’s just an incredible complement to acetate and titanium.
still photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ, campaign images OLIVER PEOPLES
Vintage aesthetics with luxury appeal. Reminiscent of the glamour of air travel at the time, the Nineteen Sixties collection was shot at J.F. Kennedy Airport in New York.
SPECTR // STYLE TALK54
SPECTR // STYLE TALK 55
NEW FORCAMPAIGNPEOPLESOLIVERREADYBOARDING
OLIVER PEOPLES is defined by a vintage aesthetic that it blends with new elements drawn from fashion, movies, art, and music. This clearly defined brand-DNA is the inspi ration behind the global appeal of countless designs.Inits new campaign Nineteen Sixties, OLIVER PEOPLES transports us back to the golden age of travel. Inspired by the glamour of air travel of that iconic decade, these energetic images perfectly reflect the spirit of the new, vintage-inspired acetate frames. The location that OLIVER PEOPLES selected for the campaign shoot was the iconic TWA-Ter minal at John F. Kennedy Airport in New York. In this, Nineteen Sixties is also an homage to the excitement of early commercial air travel.
OLIVER PEOPLES »Merceaux«
When we think of a premium Californian lifestyle brand, OLIVER PEOPLES is a quintes sential example. The label was born 35 years ago, when the first boutique opened in the heart of West Hollywood in California. The rest is an important part of modern eyewearhistory. Since its founding, the Californian label has, again and again, set and then exported trends around the world.
The campaign also marks the debut of the two new models from the Nineteen Sixties collection: The model »Cassavet« features an oversized rounded design with a keyhole bridge. The acetate model has a deep bevel feature, a delicate core wire and a plaque. The »Merceaux« model adapts these striking features – including its slanting contours – to a clear, angular silhouette.
SPECTR // STYLE TALK56
The new collection’s frames are strongly influenced by the styles of the 1960s, and boldly reflect the decade’s bold aesthetic. The various looks are based on the most famous artists, musicians, and writers of the time, as well as the glasses that they wore. www.oliverpeoples.com
»Cassavet«
OLIVER PEOPLES
MEETSCOLORSTALGIA
BLANC
The "Romy" – almost a sacred masterpiece and the result of years of design expertise. However, only recommended to strong personalities.
With every new product, Nathalie Blanc reveals something about her own personality. That’s why both her vibrant new collection Colorstalgia and her collaboration with calligrapher Nicolas Ouchenir are intimate journeys into the mind of the French designer. To find out more about the creative process and the frames, we decided to ask Nathalie a few questions.
NATHALIE 2022
HIGHLIGHTS
Calligraphy
photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ, campaign image NATHALIE BLANC SPECTR // DIG DEEPER58 »Eleonore« NATHALIE BLANC »Jeannine« Virtually try on NATHALIE BLANC FAVRSPECS.COM
still
In my new collection, translucent is gai ning power by associating itself with new hues. You can see how powerful they are and how translucent doesn’t mean invisible. In fact, I’ve always been fond of translucent acetates and I’ve been using them since my first collection. I love how they capture the light and brighten the face of the wearer. I have a lot of frames that play with transparencies. I began with nude hues and now I dare to use more and more colors. I decided to take a risk using this transparency with colors I am familiar with but never used before.
SPECTR // DIG DEEPER 59
As Coco Chanel said: “Fashion is perpe
THE NEW COLLECTION COLORSTALGIA
and pink. We also have regular tortoiseshell that I decided to twist with touches of colors reminding me of nature.
My new collection is based on the 60s style. I use bright and catchy shapes, sometimes new materials. Or rounded, cur ved or geometric shapes combined with smooth and polished materials. Above all, everything’s flashy and colorful. The low-set temple is also very remarkable, for instance on the »Germaine« model, also pictured in the ad. What does it signify?
My travels, my families and design inspire me. I believe that design is very close to eyewear. Designers sometimes have big challenges since they have to combine aesthetics with comfort objects, like eyeglasses or sunglasses. Maybe that’s the reason I’m fond of design and art.
In this campaign I take you on an initiatory and celestial journey: a tribute to freedom and modernity. It’s a vibrant and dizzying campaign that invites us to reconnect with colors in a new way.
The motto of the campaign is Colorstalgia – what a nice word creation. Can you ela borate what it means?
NATHALIE
Perhaps this sounds strange to some, but colors don’t fit every design. You need to test and find the perfect color you will put on each design. For this collection we can find a lot of blue, red, green, yellow
BLANC »Annick«
»Paule«
Many of the models also play with transpa rencies...
Hi Nathalie, the current NATHALIE BLANC collection is accompanied by a new campaign. What is it about?
It’s about ageless shapes that connect vintage and trendy while breaking rules in terms of material, space and color. Why do colors play such a big role for you?
I decided to rework the vintage style with verve. The colors are heightened and well-balanced by the interplay of mate rials and shapes. Many times, the color permits us to reveal the material and its shades. Therefore, this collection is a tribute to the past to draw in each of our memories and create a new history and rhythm together.
What else provides you with inspiration for collection design in general?
The color themes also play an important role on the actual products of the collection. Can you explain what we’re seeing there?
Colorstalgia is a new word we created to explain the nostalgia of the colors of the past from which we will draw inspi ration to create a brighter future. Like an autobiographical journey, it is linked with my childhood, with the shapes and colors of the glasses I discovered at that time.
The styles – also in the optical collection – are very striking, so nothing for the reserved wearer, right?
This collaboration is a 300-piece limited edition. Each pair of sunglasses will be displayed in a beautiful box along with an eyewear case and an exclusive dra wing pen.
TogetherOUCHENIRwith
www.nathalieblancparis.com
What’s special about the glasses?
The development of these glasses was really complicated. In fact, we encoun tered various technical problems. First, Nicolas tried to engrave them several times and it was difficult to choose the right thickness of the drill. Then, the blue pigment above the engraving barely stuck to the frame. But we found solutions. What’s magical about these sunglasses is that they will be 100% unique, as Nicolas will engrave each frame by hand. Also, the shape is special for MAISON NATHALIE BLANC. It’s the first time I've created a mask shape in my collections. I chose to do a very pure frame in order to let Nicolas express himself. As always, the product is bold but incredibly weightless, there is a real contrast between the size of the frame and the weight!
Would you say that the new collection reflects even more of your personality than the previous ones?
While we do play with colors, we also have regular tortoiseshell and black. We have thin metals and acetate too. Our selection includes something to fit every taste!
SPECTR // DIG DEEPER60
I chose Nicolas because we felt a crea tive connection at first sight. He is such a talented person, always busy and full of ideas. I had the feeling that we had to create something together and shared the same ideas. Nicolas is used to wor king with renowned high-end fashion and luxury brands so it was really natural for us to work together.
I think that the older we get, the more we define and reveal our personality. With time, you learn to know yourself better, to understand what you want or what you don’t want. I am not the same person I was seven years ago. Even though my first collection is still matching with me now, I’m not sure me from seven years ago would have designed the new collec tion. With each collection, I reveal myself. But each collection also shows me what I am made of.
the artist and calligrapher Nicolas Ouchenir you created a collaboration model. Why did you choose Nicolas for this project?
I love the fact I can offer my clients a re ally unique frame. The product is calligra phed by Nicolas himself, so each one of them is different. As calligraphy is an art, our frame is a piece of art.
How limited will the production be?
This avant-garde “mask” frame comes in three colors. The colors are natural – we made a grey-blue, a brown and a black. The pigment that will be put on the temples will be the special blue we call “Ouchenir”.
To what extent does calligraphy play into the product design?
tual renewal”. »Germaine« is the perfec tion of this collection. Vintage is trendy and never gets old nor boring. You know, when I show this frame to people, they all have the same reaction and tell me they find it funny – “This frame is upside down. Which way should I wear it!?” This kind of amazement was exactly the reaction I was looking for. It’s true that this shape was well known at the time. It’s really vintage but I think it will never be out of date. This frame awakens curiosity and is really a must-have, especially for the new genera tion, which is totally into this trend.
COLLABORATION WITH NICOLAS
In which colors will the model be available?
This frame will only make 300 people happy: the collabo model signed by Nicolas Ouchenir.
SPECTR // COLLAB OF THE ISSUE62 »Dome« »Atikus« LOOL »Izar«
Ever since its founding in 2016, LOOL has pursued one goal –becoming an industry leader in eyewear technology. The Catalonian brand is particularly focused on the development of better hinges. They want nothing less than to create the best screwless hinges in the world. This isn’t innovation for its own sake, though. It makes a larger, more important goal possible – a nearly weightless frame. To make this happen, LOOL takes inspiration from contemporary architecture and the maxim: “Beauty is utility above all else.” With a thickness of 0.5 mm and a minimum weight of 4 grams, LOOL glasses are nothing less than a miracle of design.
photos
For the past 6 years, LOOL has made a name for itself with its consistent design philosophy, encapsuled by the motto “Less, but better.” The innovation-oriented eyewear brand doesn’t limit itself to state-of-the-art technology, though. First and foremost, it’s a fashionable designer brand. Through its latest collaboration with Japanese designer and master of intuitive design Naoto Fukasawa, LOOL is connecting its native Barcelona to the unique designuniverse of Tokyo.
www.looleyewear.com
RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
SPECTR // COLLAB OF THE ISSUE 63
To make their eyewear, LOOL relies on 11r51 stainless steel as a base material. It is flexible, corrosion and scratch resistant, and can be finished with titanium, palladium or 24 karat gold. The top-quality frames are then hand-painted in bright colors. Lastly, lenses from Carl Zeiss ensure that each LOOL model doesn’t just look good, but that the customer also sees well when looking through them.
LOOL NAOTOX FUKASAWA
Of course, LOOL is just as focused on fashion as it is on techno logy. We can see that, among other things, by their collaboration with Japanese designer Naoto Fukasawa. Fukasawa isn’t just a designer, but also a publicist, pedagogue and co-director of the Japan Folk Crafts Museum. The list of designer labels that he has worked with is particularly impressive, ranging from Artemide to Issey Miyake to Muji
LOOL’s Hub technology is what makes the screwless assembly of their glasses possible. Here, a single piece of stainless steel is bent into shape. As a result, the temples hold their shape for a lifetime and opticians get to work with frames that are easier to assemble.
To design the collab-models for LOOL, Fukasawa is following the same design principles as he has with his other products. “Without thought” is the Japanese designer’s motto. A design shouldn’t try to improve an object, but rather to anticipate how that object would be in its natural, most basic state. According to him, the best design is one that springs from intuition and blends with the wearer’s behavior. For LOOL, that intuition is clearly defined: Built to be light.
Beauty is above all effectiveness –LOOL ’s stroke technology makes it possible.
SPECTR64 BLACKFIN »HIGHLIGHTER 01« dress ZALANDO LUXURY assistants LEWIN BERLINER & JONAS styling & art direction HALIUNAA ORKHON hair & make-up CAROLIN RAICK models HELENE & NOAH at IZAIO photography & creative direction PATRICK WALTER [ Berlin ]
SPECTR 65 VERSACE »MOD. 2242«suit DAILY PAPER
SPECTR66 METROPOLITAN suit»8316«ICEBERG
SPECTR 67 METROPOLITAN »8316«blazer ZALANDO LUXURY METROPOLITAN vest»8317«ZALANDO LUXURY
MARCEYEWEARO’POLO »506197« dress ZALANDO LUXURY SPECTR68
GIGI STUDIOS »Hera« jacket ZALANDO LUXURY SPECTR 69
CUTLER AND GROSS outfit»1386«ICEBERG CUTLER AND GROSS »9101« jacket ZALANDO LUXURY SPECTR70
SILHOUETTE »New York Sky 8184 75 3520«suit MCM SPECTR 71
SPECTR72 BLACKFIN »HIGHLIGHTER 03« BLACKFIN »HIGHLIGHTER 02«jacket ZALANDO LUXURY
SPECTR 73 BLACKFIN »HIGHLIGHTER 03« blazer ZALANDO LUXURY
RODENSTOCK »R 3334«outfit DAILY PAPER SPECTR74
REIZ coat»Viereck«&shirtPAUL SMITH pants MR PORTER REIZ »Granit«outfit BOSS SPECTR76
SPECTR 77
styling IZABELA MACOCH hair & make-up KRISTIN ROES at BASICS BERLIN models SASCHA UHLEMANN, MACEO DE SOUZA, RICHARD DREWS at IZAIO & MARC SCHULZE at VIVA photography AVA PIVOT [ Berlin ]
CAZAL »MOD 9104« shirt KARL LAGERFELD pants BRACHMANN SPECTR78
PORSCHE DESIGN jacket»P’8942« KARL LAGERFELD shirt REER3 SPECTR 79
NATURALHOFFMANNEYEWEAR »2334«suit MR PORTER hoodie REER3 SPECTR80
NATURALHOFFMANNEYEWEAR »332«outfit BOSS SPECTR 81
RAY-BAN »RB 3681« shirt & pants BRACHMANN jacket MR PORTER SPECTR82
SILHOUETTE »New York Sky 8733 75 7000« jacket TIGER OF SWEDEN SPECTR 83
SALT. »Colorado« vest & pants TIGER OF SWEDEN shirt PAUL SMITH SPECTR84
shoes PAUL SMITH
SPECTR 85
SALT. outfit»Columbia« BRACHMANN
MOREL »10206 O« outfit BOSS SPECTR86
With its 140-year history, MOREL is steeped in eyewear tradition. But the infamous brand is by no means stuck in the past – quite the opposite is the case. The success of MOREL is in part due to a con stant process of renewal and evolvement, despite the fact that it’s a true family-run business: Amélie Morel leads the company together with her brothers Jérôme and Francis Morel in the fourth generation.
At the origin of the company, there is an ancestral Jura tradition called “l’établissage”. In order to live in harmony with nature, the inhabitants of the Jura developed double know-how, which they practiced according to the seasons. Farmers would work metals to make frames as soon as the first snow fell. This is how the precursor of glasses – the nose clip – was born. Jules Morel, my great-grandfather, was one of the first to set up his own business,
Virtually try on MOREL FAVRSPECS.COM
You mentioned your great-grandfather Jules Morel. What was his motivation to develop eyewear back then?
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE88
photos MOREL
Ownership also brings responsibility: Jérôme, Francis and Amélie are the fourth generation to run the family business.
Hi Amélie, you’re at the helm of an eyewear brand that has an almost unparalleled history in the industry. You can be quite proud of your own family history, can’t you?
We are indeed the 4th generation of MOREL at the head of the company! We are very proud of this achievement and what our family has built over the years. It is important to know that each generation has learned from the previous one while bringing its own vision of the market. Thus, if Jules Morel created the com pany on the shores of Lake Les Rousses nearly 140 years ago, Marius Morel was the one who launched its industrialization in Mo rez. My father, Jacques, and his siblings played an important role in marketing the brand in France and especially around the world.
140 YEARS OF DESIGNEYEWEARINDEPENDENT
Jérôme, Francis, and I are continuing the legacy with the current generation; we work on MOREL’s product and brand image and control our distribution throughout the world.
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE 89
modernityTraditionallycommittedto–for140years. MOREL »80092 A« »80086 A«
The history of MOREL is above all a history of passion. Entre preneurship has always been a part of our family life; it's quite ambitious to start a business alone in 1880! Speaking of anec dotes, Jules Morel, my great-grandfather, did not hesitate to ride his bicycle more than 40 km to the Champagnole train station to catch his train and visit clients in Paris or Brussels. When deprived of road access because of the snow, he sometimes put on his skis to deliver to his local customers with packages on his back! Stories like these have you emotionally attached to the company as a family. What obligations does such a long-standing ownership entail?
at only 25 years old, to create the family company. What is your favorite anecdote from the founding period?
What does this passion exactly look like? What is your brand philosophy?
MOREL »20138 K« »20139 K«
Designed and produced in the Jura – the cradle of French eyewear craftsmanship.
The company continues to reinvent the eyewear business while
What benefits exactly are you talking about?
This is quite rare indeed! We are aware of this huge advantage. We want to pass on the company to the 5th generation of MOREL It is important not to forget where we come from and to be aware of the steps and advances that the company has experienced through the ages. All these milestones have allowed the company to become what it is today. Independence has been one of the strong values of our company since 1880. Our role is to ensure the continuity of the inherited know-how and values. MOREL is a promise for the future through the next generation and our com mitment to the environment.
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE90
We have preserved the authenticity that characterizes us. We have remained independent and proud of it, which gives stability to the company. Our passion to innovate and create – while keeping our historical know-how – is still present today. With more than 140 years of experience, our legitimacy has been established; this is what allows us to focus on our passion.
Most of our features are comfort-oriented or optician-friendly and based on our long experience of manufacturing and close relationship with opticians. In some cases, we have technical screwless hinges, soldering-free structures, or adjustable temple length. On the other hand, designing beautiful frames isn’t necessarily connected to function. When people ask us about the purpose of a particular design choice, sometimes we like to answer, “It just looks cool!” We embrace this paradox of functionality and free design; we are not embarrassed!
How exactly?
You already mentioned your collaboration with Jean Nouvel. How did the collaboration come about and what makes the collection special?
You have been instrumental in making the French Jura region a hotspot for eyewear production. What are the qualities of the region,
Recently, we had a lot of fun revisiting aluminum. This is not a new material in eyewear, but the manufacturing specifications make it very challenging. By working with the best manufacturer, we can bring new light to this material.
Would you say MOREL is a typical French brand?
This was a great experience. Jean Nouvel always had been one of the most inspiring and creative people for us. We simply con tacted him, and our genuine story and background did the rest. It’s really refreshing to work with a non-eyewear specialist. It’s also a design lesson. Radicality meets simplicity; ONE LINE – TWO CIR CLES. It probably takes a lifetime of experience to do this! In order to serve this radical idea the best way we can, we did deep work on proportion and fitting detail. We think this is the best crossover of radical design and eyewear expertise.
remaining true to its values of authenticity, passion, boldness, independence, and commitment. Today, the company strives to transmit the authenticity of its expertise while developing a strong international distribution network. Our ambition is to be recog nized as the preferred French eyewear manufacturer throughout the world. To achieve this, MOREL’s philosophy has always been to put the product and the customer at the heart of its strategy. Thus, our creations are thought out and realized in-house in our design center in Morbier, which explains our singularity. Finally, the quality of our services and, in particular, the after-sales service is important to us because all our frames are 100% repairable.
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE 91
Regarding shapes, we are still revisiting the classic vintage shape with our own approach, which consists of having new or unex pected angles and sharp details. We like this contrasting feeling between déjà-vu and totally fresh!
Why should you be? Have you focused on certain materials that you particularly like to use in your collections?
Our MOREL par Jean Nouvel collection is our recent great expe-
Over the decades, you have developed many iconic designs for which you have also received international awards. What is speci fic about a MOREL design? Is there a unique design DNA?
MOREL is proud of its history. The brand has evolved beyond its French origins and is now present in more than 90 countries; over 75% of our sales are made internationally. Although our French expertise is a real asset, our strength and success lie in the design of unique products that allow everyone to assert their personality. That’s what sets MOREL apart from other brands.
Which design highlights do you remember most?
rience with design. Teaming up with the famous architect, we designed a radical round shape with uncompromised geometry. We found the feedback was unanimously positive, with great com ments about comfort and feeling.
What does the design process look like at MOREL?
The chance to have our own internal sampling department drives our design process. It means total freedom. We try everything we are dreaming about, from the more pragmatic design to the cra ziest idea, and sometimes, it doesn’t work out! The best ideas are born from these accidents! If we had to print a panel at the front of our door, these would be our guiding words.
For 140 years, we have been a specialist in eyewear and only in eyewear. We did not move into this field by opportunism; we are a specialized manufacturer-creator. Moreover, our creations have been crowned with numerous prestigious design awards, worldwide. We can largely speak of unique design because we have a particular creation process. For us, eyewear is not just a fashion tool; we think differently.
If we talk about DNA, we start to think about authenticity and com fort. In other words, we first think about the product’s usefulness, its use, and the future user in detail. Then, design comes into play thanks to our historical know-how. Finally, form follows function. Are there particular shapes and colors that play a special role in your collections?
What special technical features can be found in MOREL eyewear?
coming years?
Classic vintage shapes surprise with modern design elements.
It is obvious that our location, in the heart of the Haut Jura Regional Natural Park, has largely contributed to developing our sensitivity to environmental issues. But our commitment goes far beyond this point. Since its origin, MOREL has known how to go through the times and the great changes by showing dynamism and adaptabi lity. Today, we have the sincere will to improve everything that can be improved and to move forward to become a company that is more and more committed and responsible towards all the major issues of our society and of our time.
in general, and also specifically for eyewear production?
Despite MOREL’s incredibly long tradition, you position yourself as a modern brand. What particular challenges will you face in the
You are also the president of Silmo and therefore have a great influence on and responsibility for the international eyewear fair.
www.morel-france.com
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE92
The Haut-Jura basin has seen the birth of the eyewear industry. It is in this region that history was written, the know-how was developed, and all the actors involved in the manufacturing of a frame were grouped together to create a true pole of excellence. By remaining faithful to its region of origin since 1880, MOREL has greatly contributed to preserving and promoting the heritage and know-how of this region throughout the world.
What appeals to you about this task?
MOREL »10198 O« »10208 O«
Is it due to your special location in this landscape that your ESG (Environmental, Social & Governance) plays a major role for you, and what is your commitment to this?
As an independent eyewear company, we need to be creative in terms of products and customer experience. We must continue to master our distribution network via our subsidiaries and our sales representatives around the world. They must be dedicated to the customer experience in order to remain close to our optician customers. The challenge is also to remain aligned with our social and environmental commitments.
Indeed, I am very proud to be the president of Silmo Paris as the first woman to hold this position. My role is to promote the show in France and internationally, highlight the talents and know-how of our exhibitors, showcase trends, and ensure the international in fluence of the Silmo brand. All this is done with a team that works all year long to make this event a success. Silmo Paris has also expanded with exhibitions in Istanbul, Lisbon, Copenhagen, Bar celona, Prague, and, soon, Singapore. Silmo is a great showcase for the entire optical industry. Amélie, thank you very much.
NEW WEBSITE LIVE NOW THE DAILY DOSE OF EYEWEAR Every good print magazine needs a digital extension. Since this summer, the SPECTR website appears in a new light. Cleaner, more focused, more beautiful. For your daily dose of eyewear, check out www.spectr-magazine.com SILHOUETTE »Lite Spirit Accent Rings 5566 LS 7530«
“Underneath The Purple Rain” (pages 102 – 112)
photo SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER
After their first successful collab with artist Ignasi Monreal, ETNIA BARCELONA is relea sing a follow-up. The artist and brand work so well together not just because of their common working environment, says Creative Director Edu Pitarch, but also because of the mutual respect and seamless cooperation they enjoy.
photosstill
SPECTR // COLLAB OF THE ISSUE94
SCHMITZ,RAPHAEL imagescampaign BARCELONAETNIA
IGNASI MONREAL X ETNIA BARCELONA VOL. II
SURREALISTICTHEAPPROACH
SPECTR // COLLAB OF THE ISSUE 95
How does the collaboration work in practice? Who contributes what?
Ignasi Monreal – like you – comes from Barcelona. Was that a coincidence or is the local connection part of it for you?
Personally, his ability to mix a more classic painting style with the modern universe.
What appealed to you personally about it?
Our first collab went spectacularly well. With Ignasi, we didn’t want to leave it at that. Normally we do “one shot” colla borations but in this case, we wanted to do a second one – especially since the collection was a copycat edition and very few pieces were made.
When we go to look for an artist, we obviously already know what he does and that we like him. From that point, the challenge is to introduce them to a field in which they aren’t used to working, such as designing a pair of glasses. We suggest ideas but we never limit the creative freedom of the artist. It is our way of working from the beginning. We want
I liked him before I knew he was from Barcelona. The fact that both ETNIA and he share a hometown helped us to under stand each other. At the time of the col laboration, though, he was living in Rome – he exuded classical art in all his work.
I also enjoy his ability to insert details in his paintings that evoke contemporary culture as well as his fashionable overall look.
Hi Edu, you’re extending your collab with Ignasi Monreal for a second round. How did the first round go?
Very few really... there are approximately 300 units of each color. But who knows, maybe there will be a third edition. Vol. III ... ;-)
them to give their best and we can only achieve that if they feel free.
The Ignasi collection glasses are very strikingly designed and probably not intended for everyday wear, are they? Who wears the model – and for which occasion?
Ignasi was inspired by the work of John Berger’s “Ways of Seeing” where he reflects on vision. Undoubtedly, the eye
I think the central element is the eye – the surreal world to which the fact of having a spectacle with four eyes, or an imaginary peripheral vision, opens us up. What is behind the idea of the pair of eyes in the temple? Is there a philosophical element?
also gives us a powerful sense of surrea lism, referencing Dalí’s work.
We think of this model as a collector’s item, but the fashion environment has embraced it as a fetish object. It has been bought by artists, people from the fashion world, Ignasi’s fans, people who want to go to a music festival with a unique pair of glasses, or people who want to be very fashionable at a wedding. What is the most unique design element of the Ignasi capsule collection?
Your campaign embraces this surrealistic mood. Why does that work so well with the Ignasi collection?
For this campaign Ignasi wanted to work with photographer Cho Gi Seok, an incredible photographer who deals with dreamlike universes. The eyewear is also visually very “eye”-catching in the cam paigns. Ignasi always likes to work with a point of humor in the concept. What has changed from the first to the second collection?
www.etniabarcelona.com
Just the colors and the campaign. Ignasi wanted to update the collection with two trendy colors – Lavender and Jade green
Vol. II is, of course, again going to be limited in the number of pieces. How many interested customers will be able to enjoy a model?
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE98 GIGI STUDIOS MERGES EYEWEAR DESIGN AND FASHION campaign images GIGI STUDIOS, still photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ Virtually try on GIGI STUDIOS FAVRSPECS.COM
I felt that the industry needed a fresh de signer brand with high attention to detail and, most of all, one based in fashion. Your brand name reflects this approach. What’s behind GIGI STUDIOS?
How did the family values carry over into your brand?
GIGI STUDIOS embodies a lively, young and fashionable flair like hardly any other eyewear brand. While pushing the boundaries with forward-looking sunglass designs and stylish optical frame shapes, the brand relies on a solid foundation: In charge of leading the family-owned business, CEO Patricia Ramo is already the third generation immersed in the optical business. In our interview, Ramo reveals what keeps GIGI STUDIOS eyewear fresh and surprising.
It started when my grandfather created an eyewear factory in Barcelona, back in the 1960s. Then my father, Luis Ramo, carried on his legacy. I inherited my passion for a well-made product from him. I started working in my father’s company when I was 21 and I quickly became hooked on this world.
To what extent does this creative environ ment influence your eyewear designs?
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE 99
“Gigi” is the name I was called by part of my family when I was a child. And “Stu dios” comes from a rebranding we did in 2019. We loved the idea of evolving the name of the brand to “GIGI STUDIOS” be
You already mentioned your Barcelona he ritage. The city seems to be a true melting pot for eyewear. Why do so many eyewear fashion brands originate here?
»Ivy« »Scarlett« »Fiona«
From the very beginning, the aim has been to create a global brand with a con stant commitment to improvement. Over the years, professionals from the optical sector wanted to join GIGI STUDIOS. So today, our team includes over 100 people who work up to the highest standards in a creative, young, and international setting. With all the brands out there, why did you think the world needed GIGI STUDIOS?
that has always been surrounded by eye wear. This heritage is so important to me. Craftsmanship is our essence and I think it’s also where our modernity lies. Craft will always be relevant.
Barcelona has been a reference in terms of design for many decades now. Today, it’s home to plenty of fashion brands and artists. And the same is happening in the eyewear field.
Hi Patricia, GIGI STUDIOS is one of the up-and-coming young fashion brands in the eyewear universe. When did the whole story begin?
Eclectic, avant-garde, traditional, and innovative. We are an independent com pany with head offices in Barcelona that merges design and creativity with crafts manship. A free, pluralistic view of fashion that promotes people’s unique identity. Describing yourself as traditional and innovative at the same time seems like a contradiction. At the end of the day, which aspect is stronger?
Both! I’m the third generation of a family
GIGI STUDIOS
cause we felt that it endowed the brand with an artistic and art studio character. At the same time, it provided a more interna tional approach. You mentioned the studio character. How would you describe the philosophy behind your brand?
This environment is a constant inspiration for me and it’s great to have independent
eyewear.gigistudios.com
You also like to launch capsule collections and special concepts. What’s currently in the pipeline?
GIGI STUDIOS
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE100
»Cindy«
I would say what characterizes our design the most is our unique metal collection. We were one of the first brands that made a bet on metal at a moment when everyone was focused on acetate. So, we offered the market a trendy and special collection, both in stainless steel and beta-titanium. Nowadays we maintain a very good metal collection but the de signs we execute in acetate have a very distinctive approach. That’s due to the way we work with angles and volumes in special constructions. What role does your sunglasses collection play for you as a brand?
We are slightly more exaggerated in the intention of the sunglass designs compa red to our optical styles. But we always maintain a coherence and transversality of the underlying concepts. Plus, we’re always looking to express our unique
The latest ones were our capsule collection in May and a special Vanguard collection with a new design concept in June. Besides that, we are working in partnership with brands which I perso nally like and respect, in order to design new models together. Stay tuned, many surprises coming in this area.
brands around us. But the underlying inspiration comes from all around the world and from many different disciplines – in cluding fashion and street trends, artistic movements, also from past decades. What characterizes the design of GIGI STUDIOS frames?
I believe we have one of the most interesting sunglasses collections in the market at the moment. We have a fresh, trendy collection that is desirable for a wide range of consumers. And the optical collection?
define the collection. Some designs can be called genderless, others more feminine. Finally, the collection XS takes up our DNA and applies it to designs for slim faces.
»Edna«
vision of fashion. Your five collections right now are Vangu ard , Icons , Men , XS and Lab . What charac terizes these individual lines?
CEO Patricia Ramo – actually she should present the glasses as a model.
Vanguard is our most emblematic collec tion. We describe it as the top expression of fashion, modernity, and sophistication. It includes optical and sun designs for women. Men is our collection that offers contemporary designs for men. Optical and sun models in bigger sizes. The Icons collection is characterized by timeless shapes and iconic designs. It’s a gender less collection, also with optical and sun designs. Our Lab collection is inspired by technology and fashion. It comes from experimentation with new materials and technological advances. The subtlety of the designs and the extreme lightness
We can’t wait to see them! Thanks for the interview.
SPECTR102 NATHALIE BLANC top»Romy« 1C1Y bra INTIMISSIMI styling STEPHAN KALLAUS hair & make-up CHRISTIAN ZEILMAIER using NUI COMSETICS models ANNIKA at TUNE MODELS & JOSEFINE S. at LOUISA MODELS
photography SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER
[ Munich ]
SPECTR 103 NATHALIE BLANC »Ambre«turtleneck 1C1Y
SPECTR104 MODO »4111«ski pants PEAK PERFORMANCE MODO »4113« ski overall BURTON
SPECTR 105
SPECTR106 SILHOUETTE »Lite Spirit Accent Rings 5566 LS 7530« ski overall BURTON
SPECTR 107 ØRGREEN »Ethereum«headband BARTS turtleneck YAYA
SPECTR108 J.F. REY »JF2978turtleneck6065« 1C1Y
SPECTR 109 J.F. REY »JF3000 0030« turtleneck YAYA
GLORYFY »GX Amy« jacket BURTON hat BARTS
SPECTR110
SPECTR 111 GLORYFY »GX Marley«jacket PEAK PERFORMANCE hat BARTS
SPECTR112 MOREL »20138 K« hood BARTS
LINDBERG INCLUSIVITYWITHEXCLUSIVITYLUXURIOUS–FULL
photography ULRICH HARTMANN [ Berlin ] model PAULINA & JOHANN at TWO MANAGEMENT hair & make-up MELANIE HOPPE using CHANEL & ORIBE styling JAKOB SCHÄFER photo assistant MATEUSZ FROLENKO
LINDBERG shirt»Joshua«BRACHMANN SPECTR // STYLE TALK114
LINDBERG »SUN 8330«
blazer SHEIN sweatervest MAVI skirt SIMON BARTH pants STEINROHNER
SPECTR // STYLE TALK 115
LINDBERG is what we think of as a quintes sentially Scandinavian brand—after all, the label likely did more to shape Scandinavian eyewear design than any other. One might even say that Scandinavian eyewear design was developed by and alongside LINDBERG itself. That might be enough for some, but LINDBERG’s progressive nature doesn’t allow it to simply rest on its laurels. As a result, the Danish brand has continued to carefully balance classical minimalist styles with the development of modern technical features for decades.Manyofthese technical features have melded into LINDBERG’s DNA over the years. For example, the screwless hinges are as much a part of guaranteeing each model’s quality, lightness, and comfort as the selec tion of top-notch materials and fine artisanal craftsmanship.
»1052«shirt 7 FOR ALL MANKIND LINDBERG »1181«trenchcoat NOBI TALAI
SPECTR // STYLE TALK 117
www.lindberg.com
Comfort plays a particularly important role for the luxury label – one that every customer worldwide is entitled to. Their tried-and-true modular system makes it possible to adjust every frame to the needs of each customer individually.Thisshows how LINDBERG doesn’t just treat inclusivity as a buzzword, but rather as a commitment and a promise to every custo mer. For example, the temple inclination, width of the nose bridge, and the length and shape of the temples can be adjusted individually.Theresult: Eyewear that always fits com fortably, even during physical activity. It’s an expression of their slogan – Fit For Life So, how does SPECTR do justice to this topic? Simple. We do it by choosing the motto “What Moves You?” for our title story. There’s a lot of movement in the shoot, only the glasses hold their place. Once more, photographer Ulrich Hartmann skillfully sets the scene with LINDBERG’s 2022 frames, showing us clearly how LINDBERG eyewear is, despite its functionality, a fashion state ment above all else.
LINDBERG suit»Esben«&vestSOCIÉTÉ ANGELIQUE
SPECTR // STYLE TALK118 LINDBERG »SUN sweatervest8336« MAVI »SUN 8335« jacket JACKE GANT »SUN 8419« top SIMON BARTH
SPECTR // STYLE TALK 119 LINDBERG »SUN 8910« jacket GANT pants BRACHMANN socks NIKE boots DR. MARTENS
RAPHAEL SCHMITZ CAROLINE ABRAM –WOMEN’S HEARTS BEAT FASTER »Blush – Aleas« CAROLINE ABRAM »Blush – Audace«
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE120 APPROACHFEMININETHE
photos
Hello Caroline, how happy are you to be able to rea lize yourself as an eyewear designer?
Unlike almost any other label, CAROLINE ABRAM focuses exclusively on women, specifically fashion-oriented women – all their product silhouettes are very feminine. Caroline’s success is also something we can attribute to the sheer authenticity of her designs – every single model comes from the heart. The French designer was born into the world of eyewear and quickly developed it into her personal passion. Her customers aren’t just buying CAROLINE ABRAM, they’re also purchasing a little bit of Caroline Abram herself.
Smooth and fluid lines define my collections. A generous and feminine harmony.
Women inspire me, regardless of their age, personality or passion. Ambitious, seductive, generous, captivating. Rousing their force, we pay tribute to them with our collections. I want my models to be recogniz able, filled with emotion, led by my own instincts –pioneering more than following a trend. A journey for those who want to feel beautiful, unique and feminine. Playing with glasses depending on your mood, make-up, or outfit—that’s our lifestyle. To achieve this with your glasses, you rely mainly on acetate. What do you like about that material?
Yes, I was born with frames in my hands! My mother is an optician, my father a ophthalmologist,surgeonso I fell under the optical spell quite young.
I love acetate for all the possibilities it offers in terms of colors, la mination and volume. It matches well with other materials, offering new dimensions with infinite possibilities to explore. Are there any technical or design features that are typical for your eyewear?
You finally made it. But your personal background in the optics industry goes back even further.
I started my career working in the family store in Montmartre, whe re I began to create accessories for our customers. Soon after, I launched my own line of opera glasses and lorgnettes. Since I was a little girl, I’ve always been passionate about design and creation, so my free time was dedicated to imagining, drawing, and conceiving all kinds of products for fashion and decoration. What then finally motivated you to found your own label in 2008? Some people in the industry found out about my accessories so I was invited by the Silmo organization to present my collections –that’s when it all started. The customers’ enthusiasm motivated me to go further and expand the line. That's what marked the birth of CAROLINE ABRAM eyewear. You self-confidently chose your own name as a brand. In retro-
And when exactly did you discover your own creative design qualities?
ABRAM FAVRSPECS.COM
What distinguishes the brand CAROLINE ABRAM?
Virtually try CAROLINE
Has a special philosophy developed over the years?
spect, are you happy with this decision?
Considering I’m an opti cian, it took me 18 years to believe in and introduce myself as an eye wear designer. Let’s say I’m so happy to get rid of the impostor syndro me. ;-)
Being the founder and designer, it seemed important for customer perception to feel it was my own vision, especially because the collection is about women.
on
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE 121
You already mentioned that CAROLINE ABRAM is purely a women’s brand. Are the feminine styles personally close to your heart or is
I launched Tête à Lunettes in 2014, for kids between four and twelve years old. My favorite is to coordinate mother and daugh ter collections, creating the “mini-me” and adapting all our iconic CAROLINE ABRAM designs in a mini version. I would like to teach
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE122
In order to have the fun I’m searching for in my work, I’m always trying new possibilities and new concepts to surprise and delight my customers. But the most important thing is to always be in line with the DNA of the brand – it has to be recognizable: “It’s a CAROLINE ABRAM!” ;-)
You will never see a frame that’s lacking in glamour or audacity! You also have a special children’s collection? What is its importance in your assortment?
Your designs are not exactly subdued, where do you find inspiration for your designs?
To design my new collection, I was inspired by a Japanese architect – Kengo Kuma. I fell in love with one of his projects: The Cathedral of St Maurice d’Angers. I decided to shape my new frames based on my own vision. Bold, colorful and audacious, the acetate is sculpted on the front and back. Steps and layers unveil the transparency of the material. I imagined ten different shapes, small to oversize, highlighting each facet of a woman’s personality.
»Wiliana«
CAROLINE
it more of a conceptual design guideline that you have chosen?
young girls to love themselves and their things using eyewear. With BLUSH you have launched a sub-label. What is special about it and who is the collection for?
ABRAM »Widiane«
Many brands are moving to a broader range of products in order to reach more potential customers. To what extent is this attractive for you? What will we never see in your collections?
What are the most exciting topics for you currently and what can we look forward to from you in the coming months?
It is. Join us during Silmo to discover all the new collections.
A woman and her personality define the frame we choose for her. There is no specific shape for specific faces, just infinite possibili ties for drawing the gaze.
Is there a special shape of glasses that you particularly like to put on women’s faces, your favorite style, so to speak?
www.carolineabram.com
Feminine designs that come from the heart –Caroline plays with shapes and colors.
It’s driven by my heart and personality that the brand got so feminine. I follow my own guidelines and shape my brand the way I feel.
BLUSH is a breath of fresh air that reminds me of my first collec tions. It is affordable, colorful and meant to embellish – like blush on the cheeks. I designed dual color acetate frames fashioned with reliefs and marked with a bezel to add that extra little so mething.
Who are these glasses for?
BLUSH frames are for everyone, thanks to a comprehensive palette of shapes and colors, ranging from radiant Royal Blue to sparkling Champagne and discreet Tortoise Shell. The CAROLINE ABRAM line has gotten sophisticated, while with BLUSH I’m going back to my roots.
Sounds exciting.
www.robert-laroche.com
MAYBACH EYEWEAR launches »The Creator«, a very progressive eyewear model that was develo ped in close cooperation with Mercedes-Benz. But not only the eyewear, also the associated cam paign is an announcement and worthy of a Campaign Award in the current issue. Jutta Kahlbetzer from MAYBACH EYEWEAR agrees.
A MAYBACH EYEWEAR & MERCEDES-BENZ CO-PRODUCTION
photos EYEWEARMAYBACH
MAYBACH EYEWEAR
»The Creator«
SPECTR // CAMPAIGN AWARD124
Hello Jutta, you have been supplying luxury opticians worldwide with MAYBACH EYEWEAR for many years. What is special about the eyewear and what distinguishes your customers (the end consumer)?
Virtually
try MAYBACHonEYEWEAR FAVRSPECS.COM
essential factor to underpin a brand value with a true product value.
Our horn know-how and the special skills of our craftspeople were combined with the design and creative expertise of Mercedes-Benz for this unique concept. It was extremely exciting to break free from "eyewear thinking" on the one hand and
“To create the very best from the very best” is the maxim of brand founder Wilhelm Maybach and it still defines our standards for frames today. With the brand, we appeal to individualists with a desire for the absolutely exceptional. The actual value of the product in material and manufacturing complexity is for us the
In summer 2022, you launched your pro ject THE CREATOR together with MercedesBenz . What did you bring to the project and what came from Gorden Wagener and his team at Mercedes-Benz ?
to venture to the limits of what is possible on the other.
As a world-renowned manufacturer of natural materials, you also use natural horn for this model. What are the advantages of horn, and what were the special challenges in the processing of THE CREATOR ?
SPECTR // CAMPAIGN AWARD 125
High-quality natural horn is visually appealing, comfortable to wear and sustainable. THE CREATOR combines the highest technical precision with a brandtypical design idiom and innovation – in an elaborate procedure, the element that
It’s found in the logos, the bridge ele ment and the inner rims. The titanium is finished with 22K gold, 18K rose gold or platinum.
THE CREATOR highlights the unique grain of the natural horn and also shows a fascinating interplay between matt and shiny surfaces.
Symbiosis at the highest level: craftsmanship meets natural horn and titanium meets modern design.
frames the lenses is seamlessly manufac tured from a single piece of natural horn in our TRIPLEX-Horn® process. You combine the horn with titanium. Where is the light metal used?
oning itself more progressively?
The collection has always offered a par ticularly wide variety of styles, as the de sign demands of eyewear connoisseurs in different countries are very individual. However, it is indeed the case that our path – also in the fashion and accessories sector at MAYBACH – is becoming incre asingly progressive. And more exciting moments are expected in autumn... How did the idea for the dominant bridge, which is immediately reminiscent of a radi
What special finishes and applications do we see?
rose gold with off-white horn is the most elegant, matt black with gold the most classic, and red-orange with black the coolest combination.
THE CREATOR is available in ten colorways. Which are your personal highlights? It's hard to decide, but I would say that
The modern shape of the frame is particularly striking. Is MAYBACH EYEWEAR positi
The sunglasses concept was intended to reflect the feeling of luxury MAYBACH cars and incorporate elements of the Mercedes-Benz design idiom. You accompanied the launch with a largescale campaign. What is the concept behind it?
In the campaign, you combine the technical radiance of the MAYBACH brand with a fashion approach.
The campaign combines the exceptional cars and the unique eyewear and is the entry into a progressive, forward-looking design language that needs a fitting
The exciting videos and the varied mate rial from shootings enable our partners to awaken the fascination behind the story of how these very special sunglasses came into being via all media. Of course, we are very pleased that the campaign is finding worldwide appeal.
ator grille, come about?
To what extent is the content from the campaign available to your partners (opticians)?
The style is not short-lived, rather it is future-oriented and has a high long-term value. In this way, fashion elements can be integrated into a technically complex high-end product.
Despite the campaign’s strong visual aesthetics, it is also very important to you to refer to the elaborate handmade produc-
stage to unfold its effect.
It is the expertise of our handcrafting artists that ensures the breathtaking ap pearance. Close-ups and manufacturing videos bring out the beauty and comple xity in the detail and give eyewear lovers a good insight into what is behind such a project.
tion. How do you manage this balancing act?
SPECTR // CAMPAIGN AWARD 127
www.maybach-eyewear.com
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT128 ØRGREEN dress»Seeya« LETOIT earrings MOUSHE DESIGNS blazer»Getaway« GAUGE81 shirt RAG & BONE watch CASIO jumper»Triton«VALENTINO
Virtually try ØRGREENon
photography WILLIAM FERCHICHI [ London
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STAINLESSØRGREEN COMECOLLECTIONSTEELHASTOSTAY
FAVRSPECS.COM
The Danish premium label ØRGREEN has become well-known for its fashionable designs. The dominant material originally: titanium. For two years now, however, the brand from Copenhagen has also been offering eyewear made of stainless steel. Join us as we take the opportunity to chat with Head of Design Frederic Lassalle and inhouse colorist Sahra Lysell about the success of their HAVN collection.
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assistant STEPHEN YOUNG styling ZITA FODOR assisted by ZARA MILLER hair SANDRA HAHNEL make-up BROOKE SIMONS models KARINA KOZIONOVA at PREMIER, BEN ATKINS at KULT, JACK RIVER at D1LON post production DARYA DZEVOCHKA
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT130
2 years ago, you introduced your first stainless-steel collection, HAVN . What inspired ØRGREEN to do this?
Sahra: There’s room for improvement in everything we do, not just with HAVN Even if we’re not changing anything from an aesthetic viewpoint, we’re continuous ly striving for better functionality. In this sense, we’re super nerdy – because it’s not just about making something that looks nice, it’s about creating products that people enjoy wearing and will keep using again and again.
Frederic: Within the past few years, we’ve reintroduced our ACETATE collection followed by the launch of both our 3D printed QUANTUM HIGH and stainlesssteel HAVN collections. This has been part of our strategy to become a “one stop brand” offering collections in a range of materials for the high-end segment. With HAVN in specific, we felt like we had the opportunity of targeting a younger audience, adding them to our existing ØRGREEN community. When developing the collection, we seized the opportunity to work with a new metal to diversify our selves and explore novel design details. Combining advanced technology, fresh stylistic features, and methods of colo ration with our design ethos of creating high-quality, durable products. While we applied our metal expertise, gathered from titanium, we allowed ourselves to go in a more playful direction, pairing strong silhouettes and vibrant hues with the step-down cutting detail that has become the HAVN signature.
ØRGREEN »Loli Fast« dress FAM IRVOLL
»Triton«shirt BOSS coat HOBBS
What does stainless steel allow you to do better in this collection?
How does HAVN differ from the other ØRGREEN collections?
Frederic: HAVN shares its explorer mentality with our 3D printed collection. However, while QUANTUM HIGH seeks
jumper»Getaway« MISSONI trousers IGOR DIERYCK ØRGREEN cardigan»Triton« MISSONI trousers THEORY
advanced technical features, HAVN plays with the design possibilities of adding a second metal collection to the ØRGREEN portfolio. It’s our lab for exploring new shapes and features, ways of applying co lor and fine-tuning details. Compared to titanium, HAVN has become synonymous with a more creative metal expression for us, reflecting the ØRGREEN aim for innovation while staying true to the ethos of creating superior quality products.
www.orgreenoptics.com dress»Evergreen« VAQUERA »Seeya«top KHAITE ØRGREEN jacket»Getaway« RAG & BONE hat MARNI
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Do you follow a different color concept with HAVN than with your other collec tions?
Sahra: When launching HAVN, it was important for us to redefine ourselves in terms of color. We wanted to invent a new concept that wouldn’t be a copy/ paste from our titanium range. At the same time, we were looking to differenti ate the collection by using brighter hues on frame fronts – nuances that would go hand in hand with the playful direction of the HAVN designs. To do both, we came up with the characteristic step-down de tail highlighting the shape of each style. By presenting metal rims in classic and neutral tones, adding a sense of balance, we could allow ourselves to pick up more daring and cheerful shades as the base for the designs. What inspired you to give the collection the name HAVN ?
Sahra: HAVN was born around the same time as we moved our headquarters to a new Copenhagen location. Situated in between historic buildings, overlooking the local canal with sailing boats docked to each side, the collection is entitled after the Christianshavn area that has become ØRGREEN’s home.
Frederic: Translating into ‘harbor’, the collection name further echoes the spirit of sailors leaving the comfort of known territory to seek adventures and discover the world.
Hi Franz, you’re very proud of your company structure. What’s special about it?
KEEP IT REAL
We favor informal, friendly interactions with our partners and suppliers. For us, that’s especially important as a way to approach everyone according to their individual needs. A large optical shop in Hamburg or Paris often has different needs than a one-man shop out in the country. Our mission is to treat each customer as
photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
an individual and to offer them a real sustainable relationship. So, you’re not interested in growth at all costs?
Continuity is the basis for progress. At the same time, it’s just as important not to sacrifice flexibility and creativity while maintaining that solid structure. How long do you keep different models in your collections?
Virtually try on REIZ
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REIZ is leaning on tried-and-true designs to launch their newest products. In doing so, their selection reflects the philosophy of the Swabian premium brand, which is particu larly important to founder Franz Reutter.
Our company structure is based on a very informal atmosphere, where the different personalities and needs of each employee are addressed. Working together on equal terms makes it easier to get along, especially in more difficult situations. We all look out for each other and what we’re doing – and most importantly we celebrate each other’s successes. Your relationships with your customers work the same way. What’s your mission with regard to that?
REIZ – CONTINUITY IS TIMELESS
The continuity that you practice in your business relationships is also reflected in your collections. What do you consider especially important about that?
That can vary. We have certain classic models that make up the core of each collection and that really define them for our custo mers. At the same time, other models or colors are deliberately
That’s right. We’ve never aspired to mass production. Our goal has always been to work exclusively with a select group of part ners worldwide.
Continuity also in acetatequalitymaterial–topnow also available as an eco-version.
FAVRSPECS.COM
Acetate is a very versatile material and definitely our favorite to work with. It just offers so many creative options – its single or multilayer processes allow us to make unusual visual effects and color combinations. Lately we’ve also been working with an eco variant that allows us to emphasize that environmental aspect. Of course, there’s also no competing with the level of comfort you get when wearing acetate compared to other materials. There’s always a lot of hype about the sensation, the haptics, of
You’re focused on acetates – why is that?
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This is a selection from our new 2022 models that’s meant to reflect REIZ perfectly. Distinctive, discreet, unmistakable. Are there any special technical features?
Right now, you’ve sent us four models. Which frames did you choose?
www.reiz.net
On the contrary. Timeless designs are those that are always on trend.
REIZ »Bernstein« »Porphyr« »Quarz« »Bernstein«
No. At REIZ we’re less concerned with technical features, but rather focused on refining our designs and then realizing those to their fullest extent.
wearing REIZ acetate. How do you pull that off?
Thank you.
That is the result of years of learning – a combination of experi mentation, experience and endless adjustments and testing.
That’s also true for REIZ when it comes to your choice of materials.
limited. Your frames are mainly aiming for timeless designs. Is REIZ an unfashionable brand?
SPECTR136 »Emilia« »Emma« »Eva« COLIBRIS retouch NICOLEFROST photography&concept NOCERA&FERRI [London] FAVRESSENTIALS
137SPECTR »9298« »1396«»1397« CUTLER AND GROSS
SPECTR138 »Eiskunstläuferin«»Rollergirl« »Schirmmacher« EINSTOFFEN
139SPECTR »Magnus« »Line« »Isabella« FLEYE
SPECTR140 »Seewer« »Staines« »Shaw« GÖTTI
141SPECTR »Sulley« »Notos« »Grogu« IC! BERLIN
SPECTR142 »M14 05« »M10 01« »M2 02« LUNOR
143SPECTR »Flo« »Alena« »Leni« NEUBAU
SPECTR144 »LONDON 12:28 (GMT)« »LONDON 10:24 »LONDON(GMT)«06:24 (GMT)« NIRVAN JAVAN
»Claude«
145SPECTR
»Jean Louis«
»Marcello«
ROBERTLAROCHE
SPECTR146 »Columbia« »Hudson« »Rogue« SALT.
SPECTR // TECH TALK148 MAGNESIUMFEATHERLIGHT NEW MATERIKA HIGHLIGHTS FROM LOOK-MADE IN ITALIA photos SCHMITZRAPHAEL LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA MATERIKA PIUMA »70655« »70656« »70657«
For many years, the Italian eyewear manufacturer LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA’s brand MATERIKA has been creating eyewear that meets the highest stan dards, both in terms of design, as well as in the craftsmanship and materials used. MATERIKA is one of just a few brands to use magnesium as a material in its Piuma collection, which is particularly noteworthy due to its lightness. Today, Giordano Cazzola gives us a sneak peek at two new models.
Only a few eyewear manufacturers work with this material. Are the production requirements so high?
Its incomparable lightness, its optimal resistance and above all that it’s entirely non-toxic. Without going deep into the technolo gical aspects for why it’s popular in the aerospace industry and other spheres where weight-strength ratio plays an important
Why did you choose this as the name for one of your collections?
The idea of designing a series in magnesium was a goal that I had in mind for some time. My interest came from an experience in the world of aerospace design. I was able to introduce the material thanks to the technological support of a company with a very innovative spirit.
Where do you get your inspiration for the Piuma collection’s de signs?
What do you like about magnesium as a material?
For some seasons now, the trend for coolest brands has been to create practical and functional garments and accessories. These tend to combine precious fabrics, high level materials, refined cuts and sporty designs. In my opinion, this hybridization represents our contemporary lifestyle. The codified trend is best expressed with the term “athleisure”, with the dynamism and energy of pro
It is about achieving a balance between the aesthetics of the product and the functional aspect of the material. The union of innovation and beauty must not be a compromise, but always represent an added value for the user.
When did you launch your first magnesium products?
The lightness you mentioned naturally allows for a generous de sign without the glasses becoming too heavy. Do you make use of this leeway?
Magnesium in the Piuma Collection – what a sublime material!
I was looking for conceptual associations for the innovative contents of each project. I was aiming for a name that expressed the principles of “lightness” and “structure” at the same time, but it also had to incorporate elements related to nature, where our materials originate. The term “feather”, "piuma" in Italian, expres ses these three interconnected worlds to me.
The project was presented in 2021. The research and develop ment process involved about 2 years of experimentation. We entered the market only when we had reached and exceeded all quality standards to guarantee that we had a truly excellent product.
Processing magnesium is extremely complex – it’s a process divided into many more steps than any other material in this area. It also involves specific technologies and equipment and consequently it takes longer to finalize a high quality product. Each frame is then individually finished with several manual steps.
Hello Giordano, the Italian word “piuma” translates to “feather”.
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technological role, such as racing vehicles, the material itself allows me to achieve the exact plasticity and shapes to express the stylistic and conceptual principle I had in mind.
How long have you been working with magnesium at MATERIKA?
That's right, these are two new models. Are there any special technical features or design elements in these two models?
You are currently launching two new products in the Piuma collec tion.
gressive change that it brings with it. How would you describe the overall design aesthetic of the Piuma collection and how does it differ from other MATERIKA collections?
The two models come in six colors, including a pure magnesium shade to emphasize the nature of the material. What color is this? We kept the natural color on two models of the collection. It is representative of magnesium as it appears in the raw phase of processing. For me, keeping this identifying color was a way to focus attention on the raw material. It is a very light and metallic shade. The brilliance underlines the uniqueness of the project and above all, the exclusivity of the material itself.
Are you targeting a specific customer with the Piuma collection?
Someone who is looking for glasses that no one else has. They’re not intended for just anyone. Our products are something exclusive, with each model produced only in limited numbers. Our ideal customer is a fashion-lover but doesn’t want to give up on comfort. Someone who loves Italian design in the most modern expression of the concept—where creative flair meets uncompro mising innovation.
www.lookocchiali.it
The production is probably in Italy, as the name of your company LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA self-confidently states, right? Absolutely. Every step from the processing of the raw material to the registration of each finished piece, is developed and carried out in Italy.
The shapes are completely original and the series has its own personal identity to distinguish it in the market. The two new models have a particular finish that allows for particularly smooth surfaces and distinctive colors that give them an instantly recog nizable look.
The three-dimensional designs underline the noble appearance of the lightweights.
LOOK –MADE IN ITALIA MATERIKA PIUMA »70657«»70655«»70656«
Piuma is the first series I presented thanks to the support of the LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA Research and Development Center. The collaboration has been underway since 2018. It is part of a project to relaunch the designs and concepts that I’m going to carry on into my future collaboration. The idea is to validate the principles of a strong identity, innovation and contemporaneity. The diffe rence lies both in the coherence of the connotative design of the line, and in supporting the innovative momentum of all MATERIKA products.
SPECTR // TECH TALK150
Was it clear to you from the beginning that magnesium eyewear would be part of MATERIKA? You also have other brands. Yes, MATERIKA represents the innovative sector of LOOK – MADE IN ITALIA, where the materials and exclusive processes are the starting point alongside a different approach to corporate values in the context of "Made in Italy", high-end eyewear. The LOOK line, on the other hand, offers a product oriented towards fashion trends while LOOKKINO focuses on performance and top quality for children.
Luxury Eyewear Made in France
»Maloja« »Lotso«
photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ BERLIN
IC!
SPECTR // STYLE TALK152
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Your new campaign reflects this mindset as well, right? We can see people of all ages. Why is that important to you?
By hybrid, we’re referring to the combination of multiple materials in a single frame, mostly of stainless-steel frames with acetate rings. It’s an exciting combo for us, and one that’s appreciated by our customers. We think of the Pure Elements models as metal hybrids – the combination of multiple metal components to make a single, visually fascinating product.
IC! BERLIN
What’s special about the new models in particular?
Yes, absolutely! When we were designing the narrower models, quite a few people said “Oh, you’re making another teen collec-
This fall, we’ll be releasing a few additions to our Silk Collection: Models with a wide range of shapes and sizes ranging from small and round to a larger sporty triangular frame. Altogether very light and minimalistic. The contrast to that are our new hybrid and acetate models: three-dimensional milled acetate with charisma tic vintage-inspired shapes. Last but not least, we have two new models for the Pure Elements Series, where precision-milled steel rings are set into stainless-steel fronts.
You mentioned hybrid models – what does that mean?
IC! BERLIN’S NEW 2022 FRAMES
FAVRSPECS.COM
What’s especially important to us is the individual style of the wearer. We want to express that each of our eyewear models can be worn by anyone, regardless of age, lifestyle, or overarching style. Our latest photoshoot – and our products – are meant to bring all these different types of characters together. Is it even really possible to target multiple age groups with a single product?
Hinge in a different way:
Virtually try BERLIN
IC! BERLIN is launching new eyewear models that have already inspired an enthusiastic reception by their customers – regardless of age, personal style or face shape. Today, we talked to Oliver Henning about how the Berliner label pulled it off.
What kinds of models can we expect from IC! BERLIN in the new fall collections?
With all the different collections and collabs that we’ve done, our overall collection has reached a size and depth that allows us to cater to a very wide range of customers. We want to make sure to expand and refine that depth with every new product launch. That’s why we have this exciting and diverse range of styles in our fall collection. For example, we specifically conceptualized some of our frames for narrower faces—these will work better with younger wearers, but also be a great fit for anyone else
SPECIFIC STYLES FOR PEOPLE WITH STYLE
on IC!
that’s looking for a narrower frame. The same goes for our larger options, such the »Liam« or »Owen« models: They’ll be a perfect fit for some people, while offering a striking oversized look to others – it’s all a matter of personal style!
Do you also emphasize diversity in terms of shape? How do you do that?
We pay very close attention to our collection and how it resonates in different markets. We find out what isn’t being represented in a particular region and conceptualize new shapes and sizes to fill those gaps. Often, just tweaking a small detail in the shape, or in the width or depth of the glass, can be enough to create an entire new, exciting look.
tion.” But that’s exactly what we didn’t want to do! We very intentionally wanted to avoid any classification and labeling. If, for example, you like the »Lotso« model – a narrow trapezoidal model with a double bridge – then wonderful! Your age doesn’t matter. That’s especially true because those narrower models are wellsuited for progressive lenses.
We want our customers to see our eyewear models as a reliable accessory that helps them to emphasize their individual style without bothersome flashy logos or loud designs. That is ultimately what makes our models totally neutral when it comes to the age of our customers.
What message do you want to send in general?
www.ic-berlin.de SPECTR // STYLE TALK154
IC! BERLIN
»Tungsten«»Owen«»Hiro«
SPECTR // BRAND INTERVIEW156 VYCOZ IS COMING VYCOZ »DR9407«»Joss»DE9406«BRN«photosstill SCHMITZ,RAPHAEL imagecampaign VYCOZ
brands. This also helped me develop a deep understanding of what comfort means for eyewear. I consolidated my experiences and understanding into the brand philosophy: “Light & Comfortable”. This is what VYCOZ tries to deliver in its design and what we want people to think of when they see our brand.
VYCOZ is unique as a screwless eyewear brand in Korea. Also, rather than just selling the eyewear, we’ve also developed our own sales manual and a tool to educate opticians about how to assemble and fit our glasses to the wearer. This solidifies our role as an industry leader.
Hi Jeong, what brought you into the optical industry, personally?
In 2014. After a 12-year career in the optical field, I built up the courage to create my own eyewear design. I started my own busi ness in a tiny office – that’s where VYCOZ was born.
While the South Korean eyewear brand is still young, VYCOZ already shows many of the characteristics that we’d expect to see from one of the far-eastern high-tech hub’s top labels. The frames are functional, minimalistic, and stylish. In this interview, VYCOZ founder Jeong ByeongJae gives us a look at the story behind the rising star and offers us a glimpse into what the future might hold for his brand.
You also work with non-Asian models in your communication. Do you see yourselves as a global brand?
Is VYCOZ a typical eyewear brand for South Korea?
Hinges with or without screw – the latter option is available from South Korea only from VYCOZ
When did you establish the VYCOZ brand?
I started my career as an optician and spent the early part of my career working for a company that specialized in importing and distributing European eyewear brands. I then used that expe rience to establish my own company. Personally, Europe is the place where my passion for eyewear really grew, and now I’m working to reach and gain recognition for my own brand.
How would you describe the philosophy of the brand?
Back at my previous job, I got to see many different European eyewear brands. Whenever I came across a new brand, I tried to find the core DNA of each new design. Making my own designs naturally extended from that. But I still had a long way to go before I would have the self-confidence and expertise to put my ideas into action. Even after starting the company, it took me six more years to develop its brand identity.
VYCOZ eyewear is now sold in 15 countries. Eight of these are Asian countries, but the rest are in Europe and the Americas. Our brand doesn’t have a separate non-Asian fit design. Instead, we have several patented designs that uniquely address the differen ces, overcoming previous limitations of fitting for face shape. First, the reversible nose-pads are 1mm thick on one side, and 3mm on the other, so they can be adjusted to fit comfortably regardless of height of the nose. Second, you can use the Temple Cutting Line to adjust for different face sizes. Third, Easy Inclination Control
What was your initial impetus for founding the brand?
SPECTR // BRAND INTERVIEW 157
As an optician, a CEO, a designer of an eyewear brand and a glasses-wearer, I’ve cultivated more experience and expertise than anyone else with different types of eyewear from different
Your collection is quite broad. What is VYCOZ all about?
4. Inclination adjustment: This feature is for progressive/magnify ing lens wearers to easily adjust the angle of inclination for a more comfortable view.
VYCOZ applies for and receives one to three patents each year. Here are some of our patented features that could be helpful for glasses-wearers and retailers.
Are there any special technical features that are typical for VYCOZ eyewear?
Where do you see VYCOZ in five years?
We define our brand and its collection as functional eyewear. To ensure the best possible craftsmanship, we use metal materials for the base, ranging from stainless steel to beta titanium for elas ticity and durability.
Today VYCOZ showcases eleven different collections covering kids, optical and sunglasses. Each category is designed based on an in-depth study into each target group’s needs regarding fit, function, and usage... COLLECTION INCLINE-T, for example, is exclusively designed for the progressive lens wearer. To be optimized for progressive lenses, this collection allows a wider range of inclination angles than our regular designs. Also, it uses our anti-slip temple to allow for freer movement. At the same time, INCLINE-T weighs under 10 g. MAX-KIDS is another example. The goal for this collection was to design something that could diverge from existing plastic materials and stereotypically childish designs without compromising on comfort. All other VYCOZ collections are also designed for specific groups and needs, as you would expect from a functional eyewear brand.
allows us to easily adjust the angle of inclination. These functional aspects aren’t sufficient for every face shape, but the steady rise in sales in the European markets shows that our design can meet the needs of 70-80% of the European population.
Easy to handle: minimalism with timeless design.
Our unique hinge design is a fundamental part of all VYCOZ eye wear designs that we want to draw attention to. Because of that, we try to keep other aspects like the front shape or the temple shape minimal and modern in a way that complements the hinge design.
www.vycoz.com
What materials do you prefer to use?
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In five years, I expect to expand our business to more than 30 countries worldwide, positioning VYCOZ as a premium global brand.
What is the typical VYCOZ design DNA? What distinguishes your brand?
3. Anti-rotation hole: This feature is implemented in the front de sign to prevent round lenses being rotated during daily use.
VYCOZ is intended to be timeless, but recently we’ve also started to introduce vivid colors and cool/transparent materials into our designs to appeal to a broader customer base. In addition, we have different front shape designs ranging from round, to squared and polygonal.
1. Hinge designs: Currently we have four different hinge systems that are adapted and designed for specific needs.
2. Reversible nose pads: Our nose pads have different-sized sides (1 mm/3 mm) which enables you to flip to fit regardless of nose height.
In which color and shape worlds do you move with your eyewear?
charmant.deEurope|GmbHCHARMANT
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production FABRIKA creative direction & styling HANIBALL SALIBA photographer FLO NITSCH photo assistant LUKAS PREUSS hair & make-up REBECCA SCHMITZ at NINA KLEIN models SUN LEE at IZAIO, AKIM at MODELWERK & ODESSA at INDEED
a story by HANIBALL SALIBA & FLO NITSCH [ Berlin ]
LUNOR »A12 508« shirt MARC CAIN
SPECTR 161 LUNOR »A12 510« shirt ETERNA turtleneck FALKE trousers WINDSOR
SPECTR162 ALLPOETS »Whitman«jacket TIGER OF SWEDEN sweater FALKE
SPECTR 163 ALLPOETS »Rosalia«blazer & jumpsuit WINDSOR
SPECTR164 OLIVER PEOPLES »Hollins«sweater FALKE trousers TIGER OF SWEDEN belt STRELLSON
SPECTR 165 OLIVER PEOPLES dress»Eduardo« VILA
SPECTR166 LINDBERG »6620«suit KARL LAGERFELD turtleneck FALKE boots SHEIN earrings MUSSELS AND MUSCLES
SPECTR 167 RAEN coat»Froyd« MARC CAIN
SPECTR168 VYCOZ »ROSS TOP« jacket SANDRO PARIS trousers DRYKORN turtleneck SHEIN
SPECTR 169 VYCOZ »YESS HAV« shirt MANGE MAN turtleneck WINDSOR trousers STRELLSON belt ZEGNA
SPECTR170 LOOL »Naoto 2« sweater SANDRO PARIS trousers VERO MODA
lookocchiali.it
#NEWRINASCIMENTO
KOBERG »KT 6036«turtleneck SCAGLIONE scarf SELECTED FEMME pants ANISTON BY BAUR SPECTR172
KOBERG »KT turtleneck6042« IVKO pants TRIUMPH pullover JOSH V SPECTR 173 styling MADLEN UHLEMANN hair & make-up KRISTINA HEINISCH at BIGOUDI models HODA at SEEDS MODEL MANAGEMENT & FLOOR at ICONIC MANAGEMENT photography JESSICA GROSSMANN [ North Sea ]
COLIBRIS shirt»Sally«
JOSH
V SPECTR174
COLIBRIS dress»Silvy«JOSH V cardigan BA&SH SPECTR 175
MOREL »80093 A« outfit DANNY REINKE SPECTR176
FLEYE »Rasmus« pyjama BAUM & PFERDGARTEN pullover CATWALK JUNKIE scarf S.OLIVER SPECTR 177
CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CMS136 LA JOUEUSE« bikini UNDERSTATEMENT pullover UAVI REPUBLIC SPECTR178
CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CMS124 LA TURQUOISE«bikini ANEKDOT cardigan OBJECT SPECTR 179
MARKUS T »DOT Mono topL1052« JOSH V SPECTR180
MARKUS T »TITAN Aura T3389«dress BA&SH SPECTR 181
RODENSTOCK »Rcoat3338«
JOSH V top S.OLIVER pants DAWN
SPECTR182
Black-MattLiamModelic-berlin.de
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK184 photos SCHMITZRAPHAEL NIRVAN JAVAN »03:08:04« »04:10:02«
With Shades of Toronto, NIRVAN JAVAN is launching a sunglasses-only collection. The models appeal especially because of their strong and harmonious color schemes. Foun der Nirvan lets us in on the ambitions that the Swiss brand is pursuing with this collection, and how they even managed to get it listed by several Monocle stores.
Shades of Toronto was launched in spring of 2022. The frames have been available at select opticians in Europe since April 1. How many models are there in the collec tion?
Your logo is displayed subtly on the lenses.
Other NIRVAN JAVAN collections also include sunglasses. Why create a collection like Shades of Toronto , made up exclusively of sunglasses?
Why is that important to you?
Company philosophy or evolutionary imperative? For NIRVAN JAVAN both is true.
What other special features do the frames offer?
NIRVAN JAVAN doesn’t advertise with big logos or highly visible markings. The
Virtually try on NIRVAN JAVAN FAVRSPECS.COM
What makes this collection special?
The collection is made up of six different models. Diversity is the motto of the city of Toronto and therefore also of our collec tion. Because of that, these models are available in eight bold colors.
The collection relies exclusively on Japanese acetate. What do you like about this material so much that you’ve decided to use it exclusively for Shades of Toronto ? It takes a lot of care and patience to work with Japanese acetate. It spends a lot of time in storage before it ever takes shape as a frame. As a result, no other acetate can offer the depth of color or the strength that the Japanese material offers. Durability and bold colors are both attributes that match the design philoso phy of the brand.
Shades of Toronto marks another step in our brand’s evolution. NIRVAN JAVAN’s earlier collections were dominated by dark colors and classical designs. Now, our frame designs are leaning more and more toward the extravagant. It’s a more daring collection that’s reaching for something more fashionable. You can see it in the details: angular designs with the engraved motto of the city – Diversity, our strength. They make it easy to recognize Toronto as the inspiration for the collec tion.
Hello Nirvan, you launched a new sunglasses collection this year with Shades of Toronto – when are the new models going to be available?
NIRVAN JAVAN LAUNCHES COLORFUL SUNGLASSES COLLECTION
As I mentioned, the motto of the city is engraved on each of the collection's frames: Diversity, our strength. Some also feature photochromic lenses. When sunlight hits them, they darken to offer a more fashionable look alongside a bit of Canadian flair.
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK 185
Summer is an unusual experience in Ca nada. The sun shines down through the clouds along Toronto’s skyline. You look up and see the light reflecting off of the glass facades of the skyscrapers. That’s the moment that we wanted to capture and turn into something you could wear. Sunglasses were the most suitable medi um to help us do that.
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK186 NIRVAN JAVAN »01:04:03« »02:12:02« Discreet yet confident logo placement.
You can recognize both the diversity and the inclusiveness of the city in the collection’s lenses. They also feature a spectrum of colors that reflect the city’s incomparable individuality. The photo chromic glasses also offer the wearer a particular sense of the Canadian sun. Your advertisements go even further, extending the color scheme into the ima ges’ settings.
NIRVAN JAVAN is defined by a sense of elegant openness. That means embra cing the joy of discovering new places and experiencing the world to its fullest.
How does that apply to your target market?
The NIRVAN JAVAN interpretation of fa shionable eyewear is subtle and elegant. Answers to its design questions are infor med by the city that it represents. There are no superfluous details, and every design has its own story. The glasses are stylish and rich in character, never eccentric. All of that rather accommoda tes opticians. Besides your opticians, you’ve also gained a partner for this collection – and no less than Monocle . The lifestyle and media brand with its well-known magazine is a household name for many. What motivated you to take this step?
Your glasses are currently available in three Monocle stores. What criteria did you use to choose the cities?
Colors are a particularly important topic for this collection. How is that?
Toronto is the most culturally diverse city in the world. Half of its residents were born outside of Canada and over 140 lan guages are spoken in the city. It is a city of uncompromising individuality. That in dividuality can be seen in the collection’s colors. You can see them in green, yellow, blue, or pink. It represents the multiface ted nature of the city, unified in a single collection.
NIRVAN JAVAN tells a story with each frame. They are the stories of individual cities: London, Tokyo, and now Toron
#SEETHEWORLD is NIRVAN JAVAN’s philosophy. That means going out into the world without prejudice and open to new cultures. This is the guiding principle behind our brand’s collections. This open ness and cosmopolitanism is something that Monocle has also embraced fully. With their global approach and aesthetic, I can’t imagine a better partner to help NIRVAN JAVAN reach its goal: To show the world at its most beautiful.
JAVAN
ted. We see people who let their perso nalities shine, and who celebrate their individuality without compromise. You mentioned earlier that Shades of Toronto makes a fashion statement. Are all opticians comfortable with that kind of concept?
It’s immediately apparent that you’ve expanded this color scheme to include the lenses.
Besides the advantages of the collaboration, are you worried about the risk that your opticians might not be happy about this step?
Yes, our characters are placed in front of bold, monochrome colors. They present themselves and their true colors, undaun
NIRVAN JAVAN’s glasses belong to those who embrace this symbiosis of cultures and who enjoy the quality of hand-crafted designs.
frames stand on their own designs, and the history of the city that’s woven into them. It’s a subtle elegance. The lenses feature only the letters NJ in fine, subtle script as a reference to the brand NIRVAN
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It’s important to our brand to really live out our commitment to cosmopolitanism. That’s why you can find NIRVAN JAVAN at the Monocles in Zurich, Meran, and Hong Kong. Zurich, as the brand's home city, was an easy choice. The other two cities are meant to represent the cultural diversity that the brand celebrates.
»05:14:05«
Correct. NIRVAN JAVAN is a cosmopolitan brand. Our collaboration with Monocle supports that brand identity and goes even further, supporting NIRVAN JAVAN in the pursuit of its goal.
NIRVAN JAVAN
»06:16:07«
to. Beyond that, the brand celebrates cosmopolitanism and cultural exchange. What could help us to do that better than our collaboration with an established and cosmopolitan brand like Monocle? So, it benefits NIRVAN JAVAN opticians as well?
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK188
The bold transparencies of Shades of Toronto add a unique twist to the collection – also on view in select Monocle stores.
www.nirvanjavan.com
Gi8
gloryfy unbreakable eyewear made in Austria from the innovative and patented special material NBFX. Developed, designed & produced in the middle of the Alps, in Tirol/Zillertal. Make an appointment with our sales team by phone 0043 5288 72800 or mail offi ce@gloryfy.com COLD ADJUSTMENT OF THE TEMPLES The patented INCLINOX technology enables cold adjustment of the temples in seconds OPTICALLY GLAZABLE Unbreakable frames and lenses – glazable in individuallensesprescription–glazable prescription
Panto
The »Genji« model features round lenses and a distinctive see-through Japanese arabesque pattern at the front of the frame and as a more visible colorful accent at the temples.
MASUNAGA »Rhea«
A pair of sunglasses with a little bit of everything – delicate titanium lines complemented by a broad transparent acetate bridge and decorations around the hinge and drill mounts. »Rhea« features a double bridge, two drill holes, and plenty of imagination.
photos SCHMITZ
RAPHAEL
MASUNAGA »Genji«
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The temple ends give it away: here comes a MASUNAGA
Virtually
Japan is particularly famous for the way it mana ges to beautifully combine the traditional with the modern. Since its inception in 2014, MASUNAGA by Kenzo Takada has embraced this idea. Wor king together, the traditional Japanese eyewear brand and fashion-forward Japanese designer have put out a beautifully eye-catching selection of eyewear. Their simple but elegant designs and tasteful embellishments, complemented by traditional Japanese artisanship, make it easy to recognize eyewear for what it is – functional art.
MASUNAGA has always kept its focus on quality, which is why it values artisanship and top-notch materials above all. Even today, the frames are made by hand from the very best materials – just as they were when the brand was founded in 1905. Reflecting this, the collab’s four new models are handmade from high quality titanium and acetate.
try MASUNAGAon FAVRSPECS.COM
JAPANESE EYEWEAR FASHION AT ITS BEST MASUNAGA | K3
Where tradition meets modernity
Where a state-of-the-art eyewear brand meets its match in a designer, incredible things are sure to follow. Going into its eighth year, MASUNAGA’s partnership with the late Kenzo Takada continues to impress in the form of MASUNAGA’s co-op with Takada’s K3 team. The current collab combines cutting-edge design with traditional artisanship to offer us some truly memorable pieces.
Excellence in quality and design
Vintage inspiration with a modern twist.
Since its launch, the collaboration has produced a wide range of gorgeous vintageinspired yet contemporary designs. Today, Takada’s talented design team at K3 continu es his work.
No words needed: finest craftsmanship, lovingly staged in rich detail.
With its elegant gold rim, black detailing under the eyebrows and a detailed Japanese arabesque pattern on the bridge and temples, »Ceres« will add a touch of luxury to any look.
MASUNAGA
K3 is the luxury brand of the late Kenzo Takada. With its stunning designs for all man ner of lifestyle products, the brand is best understood as a tribute to beauty itself. Like their other work, K3’s eyewear designs are inspired by both eastern and western styles, with a modern twist.
Functional art
»Genji«, »Lilac«, »Rhea« and »Ceres« – they’re not just elegant-sounding names, the new models also have the looks to match. Each of the frames is ornamented with a small but lovely detail at the temple tips—the stam ped image of a Sakura, a Japanese cherry blossom.
www.masunaga1905.com 192
»Ceres«
MASUNAGA »Lilac«
»Lilac« offers a more modest, but no less thoughtful design. The lenses are framed in beautiful silver and black that appears almost rimless, with delicate silver orna mentation at the temples.
SPECTR // COLLAB OF THE ISSUE
SPECTR // TECH TALK194 photography WILLIAM FERCHICHI [ Berlin ] styling ZITA FODOR hair MATTHEW GAVIN make-up EMILY DHANJAL at UNTITLED ARTISTS using JONES ROAD BEAUTY models ZIYI LI at FIRST MODEL MANAGEMENT, LONDON & OSCAR MATHIAS at NEXT, LONDON post production OLEG AGAFONTSEV J.F. REY »JF2978 0030«sweater MM6 MAISON MARGIELA
»JF2978
“We are fan of this kind of architectural work. It’s so dynamic and creative. The deconstruction on the front feels natural.”
Virtually try on J.F. REY FAVRSPECS.COM
J.F. REY’S DESIGN DNA SPEAKS FOR ITSELF
SPECTR // TECH TALK 195
For decades, J.F. REY has stood out for its designs that straddle the line between what’s technically possible and what’s fashionable. The French brand relies on the harmonious combination of different materials, carefully accentuated by color. The J.F. REY DESIGN / PRODUCT STUDIO speaks for itself – about the striking models in our interview.
J.F. REY 0010« jacket GANNI shirt BOSS
and textural effects from the carbon/glass fibers add a contemporary and highly so phisticated edge to the metal/acetate mix. You also like to combine colors. What con cept do you follow here?
We always keep in mind that color can totally change the story that the final product tells. It sets the mood. It’s strongly intuitive – a sensitive statement that incorporates the design, shape, materials, and creative details. Our artistic language evolves through our own custom color pairings and signature acetate patterns:
working without prior assumptions and constantly pushing limits – always surpri sing, graphic, and purely aesthetic. You play with material combinations a lot. Which ones, for example?
J.F. REY has long been known for its expe rimental design. How would you describe your design DNA?
»JF1515 2529«
We are talking about “hybridization”, the creative fusion of materials. The goal is to conceal most of the technical characte ristics of each material so we can feature the most innovative and striking combi nation. Everything is perfectly thought out and balanced, such as our iconic line CarbonWood: the technical aesthetics
shirt TOMMY JEANS
“We love the surprised, staggered effect of the end lugs, which we achieved through a well thought-out acetate lamination. The »JF1515« model is a great expression of our individual flair.”
shirt TOMMY JEANS
»JF1515 9030«
SPECTR // TECH TALK196
It’s the result of the strong creative freedom we allow ourselves in the conception stage. The way we explore architectural volumes and challenge frame structures or modern shapes, our bold choices in combining certain materials with certain colors – we never choose the simplest or the most ordinary way. It’s a true philosophy, deeply rooted in our DNA. We are open-minded people
top JEANS
Fashion design and high-tech are both parts of the development process. We research a very wide range of fields, including obviously the fashion industry. That allows us to explore different tech
Here, we’re referring to our urban and cultural influences: a typically architectural style. It’s a kind of artistic staging where we carefully consider the perfect stylistic balance between graphical structure and visual impact – clean lines, unexpected airy volumes, graphic cutouts. The thick
»JF2978 3525«
and fashion influences that we have to balance. This is indirectly reflected in the final design.
J.F. REY also stands for a design based on construction & deconstruction. What is behind that?
J.F. REY »JF2972 7550«
SPECTR // TECH TALK 197
Would you say that all these design elements are typical for a French brand?
On the other hand, you are innovationdriven and you try to push the limits of what is technically possible. To what extent is this compatible with your approach to fashion?
ness effects, the “controlled deconstruc tion” and hide and seek games with the materials create a sense of rhythm and dynamic energy.
“We like the »JF2972« for its exceptionally beautiful design and quality workmanship. Highly creative double bridge.”
they’re unique in their dynamic expression and their vivid contrast. Sometimes we take real risks, but in the end, it works!
The current French eyewear design scene is very specific in terms of its context and the individuals who drive it: a clever blend of modernity, tradition, elegance, and subtle cheerfulness. We are cosmopolitan and immersed in a con stant mix of varied cultures, social trends
TOMMY
niques, assemblies, and styling applica tions in pursuit of that final aesthetic. We take what we learn and then insert it into new, unexpected designs and structures that renew the aesthetic in a bold and different fashion.
beauty of the object, but also that of the wearer. The challenge lies in assembling the materials as subtly as possible, to let the beauty of a line, a color, or a texture speak. This is what we embrace: a beau tiful frame, well made, comfortable and lightweight, that you can enjoy wearing every day.
The idea of blending different manufac turing methods—traditional craftmanship from Jura with the highest technologies, sets an interesting balance in the design. The “imperfect perfection” of the craft ma kes the frame unique and more authen
SPECTR // TECH TALK198
jacket LEVI’S
Despite your claim to innovation, you also cultivate traditional values as a brand. How is that compatible?
Technical features are not an end in them selves. What larger purpose should they achieve?
jacket & trousers MARPNE ROSE
J.F. REY »JF2973 9575« -
We respect and strongly value our heri tage. Our core values define where we come from, but we also want to embrace new perspectives and the future with bright and creative people that can lend spontaneity to our existing, experienced, and altogether excellent design team.
Style and look are our priorities – we don’t seek to explain or justify all the technical complexity or the research and time we spent on the designs of our frames. On the contrary, we see the tech nical and functional elements as aesthetic opportunities. The technicality should be discreet and fade away in favor of the
tic, offering a personal touch. Our work exemplifies the highest levels of craftman ship, bringing traditional materials into the most contemporary designs.
“We like the idea of metal and acetate hybridization to achieve this striking aesthetic. A bold mix of un dulating graphic lines and contras ting color schemes.”
“We never get tired of seeing carbon/glass fibers. The addition of acetate at the top adds a new alluring touch!”
There are some new faces on your team, how will they change the face of the J.F. REY brand?
www.jfrey.fr
»JF3000 9225«
Virtually try on FLEYE COPENHAGEN FAVRSPECS.COM FLEYE »Caroline« »Olivia« Craftsmanship with function: FLEYE ’s signature nosepad with beta-titanium wire.
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK200
FLEYE COPENHAGEN is celebrating its 20th birthday by launching its anniversary collec tion Decades of Design. As befits a Danish brand, the analogy is a local delicacy –Lagkage. An anniversary is always a good occasion to look back, but also to dare a look into the future. In our interview, founder and Head of Marketing & Design Annette Estø does both.
still SCHMITZ,
photos RAPHAEL
FLEYE CELEBRATES 20 YEARS OF EXISTENCE
campaign images FLEYE COPENHAGEN
How many model and color variations can we expect in the anniversary collection?
Usually, you receive gifts for your birthday. You, on the other hand, want to give something away.
How has FLEYE evolved since its origin?
Over the years, we have been lucky to be awarded several international awards. In 2017, FLEYE COPENHAGEN won the prestigious SILMO d’Or Premiere Classe Special Award at the international eye wear fair in Paris. This award has gained us enormous recognition from the eye wear industry and boosted our company internationally.
The symbolic meaning of that layered construction is also reflected in the design process of the new frames. Here, the starting point for each frame was to look at it like different layers. An example of this is our relaunch of the beta-titanium inner rims, which we’ve added to our beta-titanium frames. We designed diffe rent colored inner rims to help them stand out and to underline the layered analogy. We also see the same structure in the different colored layers of the acetate frames.
FLEYE has developed and will continue to develop itself. We always want to do things a little bit better, and we strive for innovation in everything we do. I believe
Thank you. I can’t believe how quickly the years have gone by! We are incredibly proud of the past 20 years and what we have achieved in that time. It really is a milestone worth celebrating. It definitely is, and it’s a good occasion to look back. What do you consider your personal highlights during those two decades?
our designs have evolved with new ma terials, new styles and so on, but we’ve stayed true to our essence with key elements that are core to our designs. We have put a lot of effort into optimizing the quality and function of our frames. An example of that is our specially designed adjustable beta-titanium wire, which holds the nose pads as well as the flexible betatitanium temples for comfort and ease of adjustment of the frames.
Have you developed any sustainable initi atives?
Looking back over the years I remember two things in particular. The first was in 2013, when we started designing eyewear frames in carbon fiber as some of the first in our industry. Now, we have taken this development even further and introduced carbon frames with colored wooden surfaces. This innovative process really lifted FLEYE COPENHAGEN to a new level.
And the other highlight?
Yes. We want to celebrate our anniversa ry by giving some of our most treasured customers a beautiful gift box with a little surprise.
Hello Annette, first of all congratulations on 20 years of FLEYE.
Yes. We like to say that FLEYE frames are long lasting. This means that you can wear your FLEYE frames until you get tired of the design, and not because they break. At FLEYE COPENHAGEN, you can get spare parts for your frames. Whether you need new nose pads, a nose bridge, a frame front or temples, you can easily have it replaced. That is what sustainabili ty in practice means to us.
Are there any highlights that you particularly like to think back on?
You celebrate your birthday with a new collection: Decades of Design . What is the idea behind the collection?
FLEYE COPENHAGEN has been on a fan tastic journey that was only possible be cause of our loyal and valued customers. We have had some of these customers since we started 20 years ago – that says a lot about the way we do business. I am especially proud of FLEYE’s values, which are openness and honesty. From day one, we have worked with a philosophy and an ethic that is grounded in building trust and meaningful relationships with those around us, and that is still who we are today.
In the new collection we have an analogy to the Lagkage, a traditional Danish cake. What does the cake have to do with eye wear?
The idea behind our Decades of Design collection is to celebrate our anniversary and pay tribute to our 20 years as an eyewear company. The collection is a representation of our classic designs, representing the best of FLEYE COPENHA GEN – but with a twist. We have reinter preted classic styles, shapes and colors and created a collection that represents the diversity of FLEYE COPENHAGEN’s craftsmanship.
High quality is always a key focus for me, and I am always focused on designing eyewear that is beautiful, with perfect fit, and top-notch quality.
To be honest, lagkage has nothing to do with eyewear, but that is why it is an inte resting starting point. For most of us, cake is synonymous with celebration and an iconic celebratory symbol that elevates an occasion to something a bit more special.
What is typical for a Danish brand and what is not? And is FLEYE a typical Danish brand?
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK 201
Besides quality, you’ve also always empha sized an artistic approach. To what extent does this also apply to the new collection?
The traditional Danish lagkage caught our attention at FLEYE because of its layered construction. The variety of components comes in many colors, with textures placed on top of each other. By focusing on lagkage in a more abstract sense we can use it as inspiration, creating delicate color combinations and shapes that we then show off in our inspirational photos. To what extent do we find this multilayered structure in the individual eyewear models?
Simple and minimalistic design with unique features that are defined individu ally by brands. Danish design is charac terized by great craftsmanship and high quality. When thinking of classic Danish design, bold colors are not something that usually comes to mind. However, FLEYE has always emphasized color in its designs, and I believe that is where we stand out and do especially well.
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK202
It's all about designs and colors. The brand from Copenhagen sets a distinct focus.
detail adds a lot of charisma. Another example is our carbon/wood frame »Caro line«, where we added engravings to the inside of the temples. This small detail is only for the user of the frame, which gives them a small personal note.
Which special technical features do you like most?
We do not claim to be a 100% sustainable brand (which does not exist in my opinion), but we are in the process of
SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK 203
As a sustainable brand, you have always focused on taking responsibility for your actions. What has become particularly important lately?
Besides this commitment, where is your focus in the coming decade?
learning and are very aware of our impact on our environment. I feel very strongly about minimizing our carbon footprint, especially when it comes to production. A few years ago, we went from launching new eyewear collections every season, to now only launching one new collection a year and producing smaller quantities to avoid overproduction. I am always eager to do more, and I am optimistic for more sustainable practices from FLEYE in the future.
FLEYE »Victoria«
More of what we already do – but to do it a little better. FLEYE Copenhagen’s biggest ambition is, and has always been, to create eyewear that both complements and empowers the style and personality of the individual. FLEYE Copenhagen will continue to put out inspiring, quality designs with ethical materials. We will continue to foster long-term partnerships. And more than ever, I want to commit FLEYE to more sustainable ways of doing business. We will continue and advance our commitment to ethical and sustaina ble practices that are kind to our planet. Specifically, I want to explore new sus tainable materials without compromising product quality, fit and design. Thank you. www.fleye.dk
We are introducing a total of 18 new mo dels: 8 beta-titanium, 4 acetate, 4 carbon/ wood and 2 limited-edition frames. Each model (except the limited-edition frames) comes in four colors.
For the Decades of Design collection, I am especially interested in the small details of each frame. For example, the beta-titanium frame »René«, which we designed with a combination of matte and polished finishes on the front. That subtle
»Levi«
CAROLINE ABRAM »Helga«dress SOCIÉTÉ ANGELIQUE SPECTR204 model IRIS at SYSTEM AGENCY hair & make-up MELANIE HOPPE using CHANEL & ORIBE styling JAKOB SCHÄFER photo assistant MATEUSZ FROLENKO photography ULRICH HARTMANN [ Berlin ]
SPECTR 205 CAROLINE ABRAM »Blush – Caline«pullover & scarf ESSENTIEL ANTWERP earrings SABRINA DEHOFF
CAZAL »MOD 8507« SPECTR206 CAZAL »MOD 8508«dress STEINROHNER
SPECTR 207 RAEN »Nikol«oufit MARCELL VON BERLIN
NIRVAN JAVAN »LONDON 10:18 (GMT)« blazer NOBI TALAI SPECTR208
SPECTR 209 NIRVAN JAVAN »LONDON 12:26 (GMT)« blouse JANA WIELAND earring MUSSELS AND MUSCLES
BARTON PERREIRA »Vanity«
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BARTON PERREIRA »Syrinx« SPECTR 211
INVU »B2226 C« top UGG SPECTR212
2« coat
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FACE FACE »Wisper STEINROHNER
MARCEYEWEARO’POLO »506195«blouse REBEKKA RUÉTZ SPECTR214
Modèle : CMS140 LA BELLISSIMA www.clemence-margaux.com CCO - VILLA NINO - 247 avenue Bouloumié - BP20031 - 88801 VITTEL CEDEX - Tél. 03 29 08 85 85 - www.lunettes-cco.com HALL STAND6 C049
We feel we made a lot of progress since our launch in 2009. We develo ped a 360-degree approach that goes beyond the product itself. We set up a one-for-one action, the One Frame, One Tree project, that empowers consumers – we plant a tree for every frame they purchase. And the product itself spans four different material families.
Our mission is to make fully sustainable frames. Our packaging and POP materials are also recycled or biodegradable and made from renewable materials. We de sign them to optimize shipping size and to minimize our carbon footprint.
It is. What we aim to do every day with ECO is to have a tangible and accoun table impact on our planet, on the environment and communities. It is not only about creating sustainable frames. More broadly, it’s about reinventing the entire product ecosystem with the most sustainable solutions available – from the
You mentioned your four material families.
The ECO eyewear label is a pioneer in sus tainability. Its approach goes far beyond the use of recycled or biodegradable materials. Rather, ECO considers the entire value chain and also takes responsibility in various ecolo gical and social projects. That their eyewear also meets optical standards pleases not only their environmentally and fashion-conscious target group, but also CEO Giovanni Lo Faro.
product and its case and the way it is pre sented, to in-store materials, to logistics.
We were amongst the very first to launch a sustainable collection 13 years ago. At that time "sustainability" was not a big buzzword in fashion and design. Our aim was to create an eco-chic brand, con scious of the environment but also design driven.
This approach is so important to you that you decided to include it as a motto in your brand name.
sing greenwashing.
photos
In recent years, almost every brand has positioned itself with sustainable themes and is paying attention to its ecological footprint. Are you happy about this or do you rather have the feeling that many are now jumping on a “trend”?
RAPHAEL SCHMITZ
Hi Giovanni, you call ECO itself a pioneer in sustainability. Why?
Why is ECO’s commitment still special?
SPECTR // PHILOSOPHY TALK216
As we say, “All big changes come in the form of many small ones”, and we believe all of us – supplier, optician and consu mers – can make a positive change, one frame at a time.
NEW FROMPRODUCTSECO STEP BY STEP FOR THE BETTER
What exactly does a 360-degree approach mean to you?
We are happy about the increased aware ness both in consumers and companies. We hope sustainability becomes a new paradigm through which we reinterpret our choices going forward. Customers are also gaining awareness of and becoming better able to recognize the ever-increa
ECO »Mace«
We have run the program in Cameroon, Tanzania and Senegal, sponsoring tree planting programs that also positively
als – you also get involved in other areas. What’s an example of that?
We recently achieved the goal of 2.9 mil lion trees planted. That is a huge number, which we are very proud of! With this program we can offer concrete support to communities, providing food but also income, empowerment, and education. That’s impressive. Where are the trees planted?
I like that these Beach Clean Ups created a community. Some of them were made in collaboration with our retailers, who invol ved their customers. They gave people with the same interests the opportunity to meet and have fun while doing something we believe in and that’s helpful for our beaches. I love the fact that our brand is evolving more and more into a commu nity.
SPECTR // PHILOSOPHY TALK 217
ECO has received the UL certification, which is very important for us, and we won several design awards such as the German Design Award, the A’Design Award and two iF Design Awards. These
Our transport bags are made of corn starch and are 100% biodegradable, our outer boxes are made of recycled paper and our cases and our cloths are out of recycled PET. Lastly, our displays are also made out of recycled and renewable materials. You don’t just pay attention to your footprint when it comes to the use of materi
Since the beginning of this adventure, we’ve been collaborating with the NGO Trees for the Future through our ECO –One Frame, One Tree initiative to plant a tree for every frame purchased. How many have you been able to plant so far?
ECO 2 – for many optical glasses a slim Sun Clip-On is available, which can be clipped magnetically to the frame. »Palm«
Our product range is probably the widest in the market. We have collections with 95% recycled metal – that’s serious sa vings on natural resources. Our Biobased frames are crafted using castor seeds oil, the Bio Acetate collection is made from natural cotton and wood pulp and is biodegradable and then we have our collection in Ocean-sourced Plastics that means that with our frames we contribute actively to cleaning the seas and we have collected so far 30 tons of ocean plastic! But we never stop, and our designers keep on researching new materials and new ways to create eco conscious frames and engage our customers. The conservation of resources is also reflected in your packaging. Which materials do you use?
ECO
impact local communities. There have also been ECO Beach CleanUps. What can you tell me about this?
»Pomelo«
To what extent do they meet your high environmental standards?
Do you receive any kind of recognition for your commitment?
Our frames always have a spontaneous look that’s suitable for everyday wear and that considers ECO’s wide-ranging audience. The new shapes and colors launched this season clearly reflect our identity – which is what has made us recognizable and consistent over these years.
For sure. Consumers are very well informed now and they have the tools to understand and to judge your work. That’s good and right – it gives greater value to their feedback. Now, when we hear about happy customers around the world, it offers more meaningful job sa tisfaction – it makes us more than happy. We are very open about our production processes and about all our initiatives in general. We like to give our customers as much information as possible because we believe it’s their right to know what they are buying.
Are you looking to break new ground with them, or are you going to strengthen the existing collection structure?
But even more important is the feedback from your customers. Are consumers beco ming more aware of sustainable production processes?
awards mean a lot to us because we are a design company after all. We want to offer a product that is design and style conscious.
You sent us new styles for our shoot. What is special about them?
Special features?
In the past two seasons we have laun ched two new material families, ECO Ocean and the Bio Acetate and recently we introduced the Bio Acetate sun collec tions. We have been a runaway train, so now it is time to dedicate ourselves even more to what we have done—enlarging the collections, introducing new details, and focusing on the new advertising cam paign that we all hope you’ll like!
eco-eyewear.com ECO »Rowan«»Marne« »Poplar« SPECTR // PHILOSOPHY TALK218
The products are lightweight and com fortable, with a great deal of attention put into design and technical details such as our famous clip-ons or our new hinges.
Thanks.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT220 »TMA – The Icon 5541 MH 3535« SILHOUETTE »TMA – The Icon 5541 CK 4545«
photography AVA PIVOT [ Berlin ] styling IZABELA MACOCH with MÁTHÉ hair & make-up SACHA SCHÜTTE models MARC SCHULZE at VIVA & SHARDA MOIRA JOHNN at MIRRRS
FAVRSPECS.COM
SILHOUETTE TINTED LENSES
Tinted lenses are a hot topic right now, and that’s due in large part to the Austrian premium label SILHOUETTE. Through its TMA – The Icon series, SILHOUETTE is releasing iconic mas terpieces of minimalistic design. Now, the existing collection will be expanded with another four models. In our interview, CMO Michael Schmied tells us about the secret behind the success of their must-have eyewear with tinted lenses.
Virtually try SILHOUETTEon
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT 221
The TMA is an icon of the SILHOUETTE brand. We revolutionized the entire eyewear market with this model in 1999 – with just 1.8 grams, and no frame, screws, or hinges. The TMA is an absolute lightweight, with a level of comfort for the wearer that no other pair of glasses can come close to. The epithet “The Icon” was added to the TMA in 2013. At that time, the existing minimalistic,
Where is that exceptionality expressed?
SILHOUETTE »TMA – The Icon 5541 MH 3535«
SILHOUETTE is already specialized for the creation of high-quality titanium eyewear. What makes TMA so special?
The TMA is the inspiration for the overall design language of the SILHOUETTE brand. Pure minimalism, in line with the motto: “Foregoing the superfluous is what makes the necessary so exceptional.”
The acronym TMA stands for Titan Minimal Art, which is the most famous rimless eyewear design in the world. Titanium, minimalism, and peerless craftsmanship are the core of what TMA stands for, so that acronym was an easy choice.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT222
comfortably they sit. Many others have tried to copy that level of precision and quality, but no one has ever succeeded. By foregoing screws and hinges, we’ve made sure that the TMA isn’t just suitable for everyday wear, it’s also standard equipment for astronauts. The titanium temples sit so well that they can guaran tee a perfect fit – even in zero-gravity.
Why the addition of “The Icon”?
In the extraordinary lightness of the glasses, the firmness and flexibility that the high-tech titanium wire guarantees and how
Hi Michael, what is behind the acronym TMA ?
What makes tinted lenses so exciting for you?
Speaking of which, since when have you been working with tinted lenses?
Tinted lenses are a hot trend this year, you can see them every where on runways and in magazines. They allow the wearer to enjoy color-matching eyewear – not just with their sunglasses, but also with their optical glasses to cast their world in whatever light they see fit.
Rimless glasses appeal through their simplicity. With full-rim mo dels, the frame features prominently on the wearer’s face. Rimless models allow the lenses to shine instead. It limits the fashion aspect to just the shape and color of the lenses.
»TMA – The Icon 5541 MI 6765«
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT 223
You’re currently launching the TMA – The Icon series in four new designs. Which ones?
classic collection was expanded with a range of sporty and more dynamic designs.
What makes tinted lenses particularly well suited to rimless glasses?
In the new TMA – The Icon collection we decided on new, trendy designs, including a round oversized lens shape and a butterfly design. Classics like a smaller round lens shape and an aviator shape are also available in the new collection.
including our own tinting facility in our Lens Lab, of course.
We’ve been working with tinted lenses for quite some time, but especially since the launch of our Lens Lab in 2016. Since the be ginning of 2017 we’ve been offering 100% SILHOUETTE eyewear,
And what technical features can we expect?
All 100% SILHOUETTE glasses are also available with tinted glass. We can accommodate any customer request for an optical model with tinted glasses, even, for example, progressive lenses. In the
Are there any TMA – The Icon celebrities that this younger demo graphic can look to?
Rita Ora just recently wore SILHOUETTE Tinted Lenses in Cosmic Blue, and shared a picture of them on her Instagram account. Rim less designs, especially those with tinted lenses are very popular right now – not just on social media, but also on runways and red carpets all over the world.
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT224
www.silhouette.com SILHOUETTE »TMA – The Icon 5541 EF 7005« SILHOUETTE »TMA – The Icon 5541 CK 4545«
Of course. There are many advantages, though most of them are subjective. Many wearers consider the view through tinted glasses to be more comfortable – they can choose whatever color they like to cast the world into a more comfortable light. Color theory also claims that certain colors can, for example, have mood-enhancing effects.
coming year we can expect even more technical and designoriented changes.
Thanks.
Are there any concrete advantages beyond just the fashionable aspects?
In terms of the colors, you can choose between Radiant Rose gold, Cosmic Blue, Mystic Ruthenium, and Spheric Silver
What color options do the new models offer?
Tinted lenses and rimless designs are totally on trend right now, so our new designs and colors are especially well received by younger and more trend-conscious consumers.
Who are these glasses with tinted lenses intended for? Are you targeting a particular demographic?
FAVR has been online for two and a half years. Every day, thousands of users look at our selection of eyewear, offered by 70 different brands, and find out which of the 16,000 opticians that are listed on FAVR they can visit to get their favorite pair.
The FAVR Reporting Webinar
Opticians with a Premium Profile will gain 24/7 access to the FAVR Reporting Portal, where they can call up analyses in real time. All other opticians can try out the Reporting Portal for free until October 15.
In the premium eyewear segment, this network of brands and opticians is unique in its size and scope—as is the data that is gene rated on FAVR by its many visitors. Since May, we’ve been collecting this digital footprint. Now, we’re making what we’ve learned available on our special reporting portal. For opticians, this information can offer valuable insights that they can apply to their own local busi ness.
How popular are brands and individual eyewear models in the premium eyewear segment? Which materials are consumers looking for? What colors and designs are trending? Which opticians’ profiles are getting the most clicks? During which months are consumers most interested in glasses, and where does FAVR’s traffic actually come from? These are just a few of the fascinating questions that are answered by the
How opticians can profit from FAVR statistics
To register scan QR code or visit: https://fvrspcs.com/webinar-english
You’d rather see a live presentation on our Reporting Portal? Then join us for our free Reporting Webinar on September 29, 2022.
Reporting for the Premium Eyewear Segment
FAVRSPECS.COM
Opticians — All Pages by City
9.
Top 100 Popular Opticians Product Views theo stoemp 780
May 11 to August 10, 2022) Material Times chosen 1. titanium 31,6 % 2. acetate 16,96 % 3. horn 13,27 % 4. metal 10,67 % 5. wood 7,66 % 6. carbon 7,25 % 7. mixed 6,16 % 8. 3D-printed 4,38 % 9. others 2,05 % Titanium is the most requested material. Material Popularity Style Times chosen 1. round 22,46 % 2. square 21,9 % 3. panto 13,09 % 4. others 9,26 % 5. pilot 9,03 % 6. narrow 8,92 % 7. cats-eye 8,01 % 8. butterfly 7,34 % Harry Potter also uses FAVR as a source of inspiration. Style PopularityCity Views 1. Munich 783 2. Paris 716 3. Berlin 684 4. London 427 5. Hamburg 360 6. Zurich 358 7. Frankfurt am Main 342 8. Vienna 334 9. New York 322 10. Cologne 321 11. Stuttgart 285 12. Toronto 248
Spain 1.759 3,02 %
Country
Canada 1.608 2,76 %
Austria 1.202 2,07 %
Australia 646 1,11 % China 430 0,74 %
2.
Netherlands 1.053 1,81 %
7.
Switzerland 4.014 6,9 %
4.
10.
12.
Brand
1.
2. theo times 739 3. theo tetris-16 678 4. theo tracing-374 657 5. theo outline-376 655 6. theo shape-410 601 7. theo stamppot 581 8. theo mille81 529 9. theo mille84 512 10. theo obus-506 510 11. theo briljant-506 503 12. theo cherry-cho... 493 13. theo mille82 485 14. theo colcannon 430 For each brand, all products can be sorted by popularity. A good template for shopping... Product Views by Brand (THEO as example) Shop Views 1. der augenoptiker... 4.876 2. kaestner 4.179 3. eurooptica 4.035 4. brillen bei milew... 2.953 5. schuett optik ho... 2.413 6. colibri 2.174 7. monocle 2.032 8. brillerei ag 1.978 9. ramstein optik 1.770 10. kuehnis brillen... 1.611 11. baertschi 1.572 12. vandenbalck op... 1.530 From Eifel to New York: many opticians' microsites are used intensively as a source of inspiration. Total FAVR Page Views by Microsite Top 100 Get your permanent reporting access! (Until October 15, 2022 free!) More analyses on traffic, user behavior, brands, products and opticians are available on a daily basis on the FAVR Reporting Portal. Scan QR code or visit: https://fvrspcs.com/reporting-home-en The five most visited brand profiles on FAVR. Top 5 Brand Profiles Brand Views 1. theo 15.631 2. götti 8.842 3. lunor 7.734 4. masunaga 7.012 5. hoffmann natural eyewear 5.459
Germany 18.512 31,82 %
Geo Statistics
3.
United States 8.744 15,03 %
8.
Italy 4.270 7,34 %
Belgium 1.174 2,02 %
Reads like a travel bucket list: metro polises are also high on the list for FAVR users.
City Views freudenhaus opt... 249 ramstein optik 115 bellevue finest... 107 pedarregaix opti... 90 carlotti opticien... 79 ryser optik 74 gogosha optique 54 moscot shop 51 monocle 40 erich hartmann 37 mykita shop new... 36 anthony aiden... 36 means "whorehouse" in German. There’s one in Munich ... and the one with the beauti ful glasses seems to be particularly coveted.
11.
6.
Total users... Total users
United Kingdom 2.028 3,49 %
International
France 4.094 7,04 %
5.
"And the winner is ... Germany!“ No way, because who invented it? That's right, Switzerland. In relation to the number of inhabitants, the Swiss are the most active users.
Sample Excerpts from the Reporting Portal
"Freudenhaus“
1.
(From
4. Connect real and virtual worlds. Use digital assets to offer value to bricks-and-mortar customers. Do online try-ons with them, put QR codes to relevant landing pages in the store, encourage them to subscribe to your newsletter etc…
6. Check which products your favorite brands are featuring on FAVR. Making sure that you offer these curated products at your business can boost customer satisfaction and lead to sales. After all, most customer inquiries on FAVR are made regarding a specific product.
9. Present yourself to FAVR’s visitors with a Premium Profile. Also, you can select your favorite brands on your profile to ensure that you can be found by search engines when users search for those brands. You can test your premium profile for free for three months.
10 Key Takeaways for Your Online Business
3. Maintain contact to your customers online. Keep in touch with your fans via regular newsletters about current topics, new collections, special offers etc…
8. Register at FAVR if you haven’t done so yet and fill out your profile with all of the requested information.
1. Develop your online channels (digital touchpoints) as much as possible and keep content current to ensure that Google and other search engines can find you.
5. Use the insights gained from the FAVR Reporting Portal, especially for your own purchases. The ability to set the viewing period individually also allows you to evaluate changes in user behavior.
Here are our top ten takeaways for your own online activities:
2. Keep in mind that consumers are increasingly relying on mobile devices for online searches. Your website needs to offer a great user experience on mobile devices.
7. Always stay on the ball, educate yourself further, and check out our webinar
10. Take advantage of the technical opportunities that FAVR offers for your own website. By incorporating a microsite (the “Premium Pro” package) into your online presence you can simply and easily attract visitors to your site using state of the art technology. The Virtual Try-On feature is especially impressive. You can also test the premium pro profile for a threemonth trial period — for free.
559-16034Mod.Woman562-16035Mod.Man
assistant OKSANA KOLESKNIK hair & make-up LAURA LASZEK at CLOSE UP models JULIA MENEZES at MGM MODELS & JESSICA VALL at SPIN MODEL MANAGEMENT
SPECTR230
photography & production ANDREA KADLER [ Hamburg ]
231SPECTR LITHE »16034-559«dress TRAFFIC PEOPLE necklace SILVERELEPHANT LITHE cap»16033-553« THE FARM jacket FRENCH CONNECTION teddy ANDRÉS SARDA
LOOL »Naoto 2« blouse CHARLOTTE SPARRE pants R13 BY APROPOS SPECTR232
LOOL kimono»Hangar«DEVOTION jewelry SILVERELEPHANT leggings MAMATABUSHI 233SPECTR
FACE A FACE »Sotsas 1«jacket NACH jewelry SILVERELEPHANT bra PRIMADONNA shorts YES MY LOVE SPECTR234
FACE A FACE »Aalto 2«jacket BA&SH headband GUCCI BY APROPOS earrings SILVERELEPHANT 235SPECTR
LINDBERG »1263« jacket COURRÈGES shorts LEVI’S bag ALEXANDER MCQUEEN BY APROPOS ankle boots ALINA SCHÜRFELD earrings SILVERELEPHANT SPECTR236
237SPECTR HOFFMANNNATURALEYEWEAR »Bloc II 1498« jewelry SILVERELEPHANT top & leggings MAMATABUSHI belt PAUL & JOE
ETNIA BARCELONA »Azul Etnia – The Kennedi KL« jacket GUCCI BY APROPOS jewelry SILVERELEPHANT top CHAMPION
SPECTR238
239SPECTR EINSTOFFEN earrings»Flusssieder« VANESSA BARONI BY APROPOS shirt ANDREA KADLER skirt MONCLER
SPECTR240 I-SPAX dress»Macy«BALENCIAGA BY APROPOS leggings MAMATABUSHI earrings LIEBLINGSSTÜCKERL bracelet SILVERELEPHANT ankle boots ALINA SCHÜRFELD
The eyewear specialist for small frames
MINAMOTO means “origin”. Our team chose MINAMOTO as our brand name be cause we wanted more people to know about the spirit of Japanese craftsman ship and the roots of our company. Is this meaning found anywhere else in
just about the tech nical aspect of manufacturing eyewear, but also the attitude of the person –approaching manufacturing critically to make things better. Needless to say, we consider craftsmanship to be one of our company’s key principles.
The logo is expressed with a single Kanji character that refers to the beginning (origin) of a water flow (a spring). The logo represents our hope that our Japanese products will be accepted and loved by Europeans, just as a small spring beco mes a river and, after a long distance, eventually pours into the sea and mixes with it.
your company?
The Japanese brand MINAMOTO was launched three years ago with the intent of making top-quality Japanese crafts manship and artisanal traditions acces sible to a Western audience. Today, Hajime Hori gives us an exciting insight into the brand and its philosophy.
What is the brand name all about? Does the term have a deeper meaning?
focused on that single flower, which is se lected with the utmost care so the viewer can experience the beauty of the flower to its fullest Craftsmanshipextent.isn’t
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE242
You also represent the typical Japanese idea of ai-chaku . What is behind this? Here is an interesting experience from my own life. When I was a student, I used to wipe my glasses clean every day and after years of use, the gold plating wore off and the layer became thinner. Finally, the silver color of the base metal became faintly visible. Considering only physical parameters, nothing can really avoid
TRADITIONWITHIMPRESSESMINAMOTOJAPANESE MINAMOTO »MN31009 –»MN31011Shino«
It can be described with two words: zen and craftsmanship. The word zen has a broad meaning, but in terms of what zen means to MINAMOTO, it’s about elimina ting what is unnecessary and maximi zing its value. You might have heard of a single-flower vase; that’s our typical example to express what zen means for MINAMOTO’s design. The eye should be
What can be described as the DNA of the brand? What is your philosophy?
photos SCHMITZRAPHAEL
Hello Hajime, when and where did MINAMOTO’s journey begin?
– Haruko«
It all started at the end of 2019, with a conversation with EU management about how we could improve market recognition for our company. When I was working in Europe, I heard some comments from our customers – that they weren’t aware that our company is Japanese. So, our initial discussion was to bring that sense of Japan into the product for European people. That was quite understandably an inspiration for me.
SPECTR // BRAND PROFILE 243
Where is your journey going in the future?
It's not surprising that you specialize in titanium. What speaks for this material?
MINAMOTO »MN31010 – Yukiko« »MN31006 – Shichiroji«
I’d like to grow the number of MINAMOTO fans more and more. I’m going to continue to confront the brand as a craftsman, to make it better. This is the same mindset that craftsmen always pursue. In a perso nal sense, it is also a journey to grow the craftsmanship of MINAMOTO in myself. www.minamoto-eyewear.com
deterioration. However, sometimes that same deterioration creates irreplaceable value. That was my first experience with ai-chaku, and I would like everyone who wears MINAMOTO to have ai-chaku for their glasses as well.
Light, durable, hypoallergenic, chemically stable titanium is the best material for eyewear. And titanium is also a part of our origin, so it is a perfect match to our brand.
Superficial, detailed shapes and patterns are not essentially important in MINAMOTO’s designs. What is most im portant is that the product will be used for a long time. Every detail of each pair of MINAMOTO glasses is carefully designed – for example, not to show mechanical elements like hinges or rimlocks obvious ly, and to avoid plastic nose pads or end tips.
Japanese brands are known for their attention to detail. Does this also play a role for you?
Belong to the Japanese tradition like origami and calligraphy: loving ornamentation and highest material quality.
www.koberg-tente.de
HIGHLIGHTSKOBERG2022
KOBERG is a label that’s fully committed to quality “Made in Germany” craftsmanship. Launched in 2013, the label is still quite young. Its parent company, Koberg & Tente, however, has a long and far-reaching history. The company has been active in the eyewear industry, serving its customers from its seat in Münster for over 76 years. This allows the KOBERG line to seam lessly blend contemporary style with decades of manufacturing know-how. One of its key design features, the cylindrical hinge, received a facelift in 2019 to allow for slimmer hinge and temple designs. For our creative team, that still leaves enough to do in terms of design to showcase the models in a SPECTR collection shoot. Stylist Haniball Saliba and his team bring selected KOBERG models to the Capital of Cool, and SPECTR, in turn, takes them out into the world.
a story by HANIBALL SALIBA & ANTON OLIAR [ Berlin ] production FABRIKA photographer ANTON OLIAR creative direction & styling HANIBALL SALIBA hair & make-up REBECCA SCHMITZ at NINA KLEIN models ERYK M. at SEEDS & MARCIA at MIRRRS
KOBERG »KT 6050«shirt MANGO MAN t-shirt DICKIES pants DRYKORN
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT244
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT 245 KOBERG »KT pullover6048«WINDSOR skirt SELECTED FEMME
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT246 »KT 6051«shirt MASSIMO DUTTI t-shirt LEVI’S trousers STRELLSON »KT 6052«jacket STRELLSON sweater MASSIMO DUTTI KOBERG »KTshirt6043« MANGO trousers COSTER COPENHAGEN
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT 247 KOBERG »KT 6036«trenchcoat MANGO shirt UNIQLO »KTvest6037« FALKE sweater STONE ISLAND
SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT248 KOBERG »KT sweater6041« ESPRIT »KT 6035« shirt CARHARTT
METROPOLITAN »8317« METROPOLITAN »8316« Virtually try METROPOLITANon FAVRSPECS.COM
SPECTR // LABEL UPDATE250
photos SCHMITZRAPHAEL
extravagant, oversized »8316« sunglass-model is just as feminine but is made of high-quality acetate. Expressive facets on the sides of the nearly geometric-seeming middle section add both character and glamour.Themen’s
URBAN DESIGN FOR CHARACTERSSTRONG HIGHLIGHTSFWMETROPOLITAN2022
METROPOLITAN is launching new models this Fall, for men and women alike. The new collection stays true to the German brand’s design DNA, targeting urbanites with a love for purist design and clean lines. METROPOLITAN views its customers as contemporary, cosmopolitan people with an intuitive sense and appreciation for beauty and quality.
Despite their shared overarching designs, the styles of the feminine eyewear models differ significantly from their masculine counterparts. The women’s models hold to the larger theme of “cha racter and glamour”, which means that the optical models emphasize feminine shapes just as much as the sunglasses. The use of generous facets lends the designs their strong character. The women’s model »8073« features a front cut from stainless steel, with fine lines and steps that give the design a refined, glamorous effect. The more
www.metropolitan-eyewear.com
collection is designed to match a different design theme. The motto of these new models is “Strength of character and urbanity.” Resolute and straight lines at the top, geometric and firm lens designs, bold rims, and smaller faceting seize on the urban zeit geist to characterize the new designs.
METROPOLITAN »8275« »8274« Design element or discreet application?logoBoth.
SPECTR // LABEL UPDATE 251
LITHE GOES BETA-TITANIUM
photos & »16034«
RAPHAEL SCHMITZ LITHE »16030«
Over three years ago, we realized that, while we’d been offering a wide range of titanium models in our collection, we hadn’t really approached its true poten tial in terms of lightness and flexibility.
Visibly invisible also applies to the charming solu tion for framing the lenses.
Besides beta titanium, you also use biobased acetates for some styles. What possi
aren’t engaging with the topic enough?
The slogan “Visibly invisible” is an impor tant core statement for us. To us, it means putting the wearer in the foreground and making urbane, tasteful and pragmatic designs that are adapted to our contem porary needs. And all that made fairly,
SPECTR // LABEL UPDATE252
What’s LITHE’s philosophy?
Japanese beta titanium can be made very thin without losing its strength, giving the material a lot of flexibility and making it comfortable to wear. Of course, that also requires unique manufacturing conditions to keep everything precise and free of defects. That’s something we worked on intensively.
Hello Ralf, let’s go over LITHE’s origin story. When and why did you create LITHE?
How do you achieve that lightness that’s so important for your models?
LITHE EYEWEAR is a relatively young German brand with a clear focus on lightness and discreet, subtle designs. Unsurprisingly, they rely heavily on beta-titanium for their work. Going further, though, LITHE is developing technical features that contribute further to the lightness that they aspire to in their designs. We spoke with founder Ralf Kmoch to learn more.
long-lasting, and for constant use.
So, I sat down with Viktor Kammerer and Volker Beck – both very experienced designers – and really engaged with the topic of beta titanium intensely and with great enthusiasm. Did you have the sense that other brands
We’re not alone in this niche, of course. We saw a chance to set ourselves apart and to develop a new design language for ourselves because of our innovative mounting options.
The shooting location—a limestone quarry—creates an exciting contrast to our technical and aesthetic products.
The focus for LITHE is mostly about optical frames. That’s where we see our future.
SPECTR // LABEL UPDATE 253
Is weight also being reduced at the temples?
The temples can be individually shor tened, and we ensure a high level of comfort despite the delicate wire with our rubber temple-tips.
For us, beta titanium and their structure – including our hinge – are the solution to that requirement. The ultimate test is for a pair of glasses to survive my use for a long time – and mine has passed with distinction.
LITHE »16035« & »16031«
Absolutely. Combining thin acetate de signs with “the ring” patent allows for a range of new interpretations and tech niques. Bio acetate and beta titanium are both future-oriented solutions.
Yes, for example, we have “the ring” – our patented optical mount. This allows us to use nylon threads in a variety of colors to make glazing simple and easy.
Ensuring that these delicate designs are durable and long-lasting is just a prere quisite inherent to this kind of design.
»16030« – The women’s full-rim version is very flattering even for more petite wea rers, with colorful accents on somewhat wider temples that make them a wearable piece of art. »16034« – The women’s com bo bio acetate is impressive in all four color-variants, each of which flatter the wearer in a different way. »16035« –The men’s sheet version offers a spor ty look with a slight curve to underline the masculine character of the wearer. »16031« – The full rim version uses its aforementioned invisibility to provide an eloquent and elegant appearance. Pure understatement.
You sent us four new models for our shoot. What do you especially like about them?
How would you describe LITHE’s design DNA? Are there design aspects and color schemes that are recurring or typical for your models?
It gives us new and sustainable options for colorful and structured lightweight designs. Viktor and Volker used it to open up a new world of possibilities for LITHE, while also opening the door to greater sustainability for our brand. Besides the materials, you have a range of technical applications in your repertoire that have also contributed to the lightness of LITHE models. What are those?
One interpretation of the full-rim version makes a solution without a rim lock or screws possible due to the tension on the wire along the bottom of the rim. It’s a very exciting feature and allows us to keep the weight down.
bilities does this new material offer?
For acetate models as well?
You’ll be launching a new ad campaign alongside the new products. How does the campaign reflect your brand’s identity?
Nature meets technology, eternity meets zeitgeist, and the photographer and the models meet their limits with wind, dust, and glaring sunlight. The result is just incredibly aesthetic and came out just the way we imagined it. The models were also quite impressed by the archaic-see ming 80-ton mining equipment. www.lithe-eyewear.com
We very purposefully and mindfully want to embrace the zeitgeist of this very minimalist, urbane, and cosmopolitan niche and work in line with it. The designs are
How important would you say sunglasses are in your new collections?
Your models are very delicate, but despite that you mentioned their impressive sturdi ness. How did you achieve that?
flattering rather than provocative – we are looking for pragmatic, appealing designs that are visibly invisible.
You also manage without using any screws. How?
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styling DAVOR JELUSIC at LIGANORD assistant ANA MARIJA KNEZEVIC hair & make-up TINA PACHTA models ELLA at PMA MODELS & LEON at TAKE3MGMT photography PIETRO GROFF Berlin ]
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