Supper - Issue 23 by Mondiale Media

HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

FORESTIS – DOLOMITES • DANIEL BOULUD • THE AUBREY – MANDARIN ORIENTAL HONG KONG

CONTENTS ISSUE 23 STARTERS

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034

Columns 034 New Orleans

Serena © Francis Amiand

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Moxy South Beach 036 Miami

Bisushima 038 Page8 Hotel London

Beefbar 040 Four Seasons Astir Palace Athens

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MAIN COURSES The Aubrey

Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong

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Forestis 048 Dolomites

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Torel Palace

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Cura

064

London

Porto

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon

Kingsland Locke

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CONTENTS ISSUE 23 SERVICE

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The French Connection

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Crowning Glory

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A leading authority in French cuisine, Daniel Boulud reflects on more than fifty years of service, his culinary empire and the future of fine dining.

As Crown Sydney makes its debut, Culinary Ambassador Guillaume Brahimi and Culinary Director Sarah Briegel talk local provenance and showcasing the best of New South Wales.

DINING Healthy Foundations

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From plant-based plates to inflammatory-reducing diets, biodynamic wines to nutrient-dense dishes, new wellness resorts are pushing the boundaries of clean cuisine. © Scott Ehler

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SIPPING Low and Behold

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The acceleration of health and wellness trends has reinforced the significance of low- and noalcohol options, giving rise to a host of new products and pours.

MARKET INSIGHT Hotel Beverage Study 2020 © Thomas Schauer

SPOTLIGHT

REGULARS Entrée 011

Drinks 089

Appetisers 015

Petits Fours

Signatures

Washing-Up 114

074

Cocktails 084

004

094

In this second instalment, Supper delves further into the latest edition of Nielsen CGA’s Hotel Beverage Study, to offer insight into the hotel guest and how the Coronavirus pandemic has impacted their dining and imbibing behaviour.

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Dare to be Different

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Java Script

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A single sourcing option for the F&B industry, Renarte’s success has been defined by its firsthand experience and expertise in all aspects of hospitality.

Could investment in tech-driven solutions both back- and front-of-house help hotels serve the next generation of coffee connoisseurs?

S Y NERGY & ST Y L E L IGH T S

WMFHotel_Anzeige_236mmx275mm.indd 1

A new porcelain collection that leaves nothing to be desired. And a lifestyle product line to create special highlights to set the table completely with WMF Professional. www.wmf-professional.com

23.03.21 09:15

YOURS TO DE

PLEASE ENJOY LILLET RESPONSIBLY

Made for 6pm. Or any time you like.

DEFINE

CONSIDERED DESIGN

horeca.lsa-international.com

MIA

ENTRÉE

ON THE COVER Forestis, Dolomites © Konstantin Volkmar

Eat Local

ack in the early days of Supper, we wrote about the

cutter approach, the major players – such as Marriott’s new

growing need for hotels to cater to the local market,

vision for Sheraton’s coffee bar – are doing-away with brand

believing that food and beverage concepts designed for

standards in favour of a DNA or kit of parts, in which a pre-

the surrounding community would better succeed over those

defined concept can be individualised according to the market.

that existed only to serve overnight guests. At the time, there

The idea carries through to the cuisine too, with barely

was a palpable shift in the hospitality landscape; travellers

a new restaurant opening its doors without affirming its

were clearly losing their appetites when it came to dining in

commitment to sourcing local. Some focus on the surrounding

hotels, preferring instead to explore a destination and its many

region, while others hone in on their immediate environs,

eateries, while operators were waking up to the fact that they

opting for produce grown, caught or cultivated within a 10-

had to reinvent their spaces, not only to keep transient guests

mile radius. Even in urban settings, operators are repurposing

spending on site, but to draw in local residents, who could

rooftops or green spaces for vegetable patches, herb gardens

potentially become loyal patrons.

and beehives. And in a bid to keep their carbon footprint low,

Since then, ‘neighbourhood’, ‘local’ and ‘community’ have

a growing number of hotels are partnering with small-scale

become the buzzwords of hospitality development, with every

producers from within their neighbourhood, meaning that

concept – even those with a global presence – boasting ties to

goods aren’t being transported across continents via fuel-

the area in which they sit. Little did we know that the idea of

guzzling planes. In the case of Kingsland Locke in London –

local would become so essential – in every sense of the word.

also featured in this issue – the team have gone a step further,

With international travel largely off-limits and guestroom

installing a brewery on-site to produce their own craft beer,

occupancy reaching record lows, the need to appeal to locals

which is served in the aparthotel’s restaurant and bar. And in

has become crucial. In the parts of the world where hotel

the Dolomites at Forestis, where the surrounding forest serves

restaurants and bars have been able to remain open, those

as the kitchen’s main supplier, the chef questions how they

that had already built a loyal following pre-pandemic have

could have operated without local producers at a time when

undoubtedly had the upper hand, with cautious consumers

borders were closed.

opting for venues they know and trust when they dine out.

So while the local approach – both sourcing local and

For operators, the pandemic has reinforced the importance of

appealing to a local crowd – isn’t new, the global pandemic

local residents; anyone who has opened a hotel over the past

has surely heightened its importance. With diners continuing

12 months will know this all too well. At Crown Sydney for

to seek out authentic experiences that have a positive impact

example, featured in this issue of Supper, the culinary team

on the environment and community, this is one trend that’s

revealed that the pandemic led to a change in mindset to cater

here to stay.

to staycationers rather than rely on inbound tourism. The design of spaces is also being influenced by the locale, not only the city but the immediate community, with furniture, artwork and tableware often sourced from local makers. And as guest preferences move away from the cookie-

Catherine Martin • Managing Editor

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APPETISERS

Together Again As part of a brand-wide refresh, Sheraton Hotels & Resorts has revealed

thrive,” continues Helper. “It is a scalable concept with multiple

further details of its new F&B concept set to roll-out across all 446

components for casual interactions throughout the day.”

properties worldwide.

The additional components can be selected by individual owners from

Drawing on its roots as a community hub, the new approach creates a

a kit of parts and include The Studios – flexible gathering spaces that

holistic experience with spaces to connect, where guests feel comfortable

are enclosed in glass so that guests can meet in privacy while benefitting

whether working, dining, meeting or relaxing. “Our overarching design

from the energy of the lobby – and The Community Table, a workspace

vision is based around the art of gathering,” explains Brittney Hepler,

with integrated lighting and wireless charging stations that invites

Senior Design Manager with Marriott’s Global Design Strategies team.

guests to work or dine as a group, or alone together.

Speaking via video conference, she continues: “It is an art form to create

The new vision can now be seen at properties in Tel Aviv, Dubai,

spaces that really welcome guests and support meaningful experiences;

Denver and Guangzhou with regional nuances in the cuisine and design

within our spaces, guest and locals should feel a connected sense of

details. “This is a pivotal moment for Sheraton as we see hotel owners

belonging, both physically and emotionally.”

embracing the new vision and bringing it to life for the first time,”

A focal point of the lobby, the F&B concept – known as Coffee Bar

concludes Amanda Nichols, Senior Director and Global Brand Leader.

Bar – is a central pillar of the new vision. Part bar, part coffee bar, part

“Over the past 80 years, Sheraton has always offered guests the time-

market, it is designed to transition seamlessly from day to night, with

honoured assurance of a welcoming community. We’re proud to have

dining and imbibing options that are locally-sourced and customisable

built on this legacy in the new concept, creating an environment where

to accommodate all tastes and time schedules. “This is the heartbeat

guests can enjoy all the familiar comforts of the Sheraton brand, but

of our public space, and it’s what really makes our communal energy

with fresh, contemporary updates.”

Designing Destinations André Fu offers a preview of his new project for Four Seasons, designed to Chef Daniel Calvert’s culinary vision.

As Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi

Maison Marunouchi, a lively French bistro –

gears up for its grand opening, interior architect

both overseen by Michelin-starred chef Daniel

André Fu has revealed the design concept for its

Calvert. Originally from the UK, Calvert has

hotly anticipated dining destinations, releasing a

centred his vision for Sézanne around dynamic,

hand-drawn sketch of the elegant spaces.

technique-driven French cuisine. With a focus

In keeping with the hotel’s boutique offer,

on updating classic recipes, dishes are crafted

the culinary journey promises to be an intimate,

with a light touch and plated with flawless

engaging and deeply personalised affair. “The

precision; “Everything on the plate is there for

mindset here is very different from a typical hotel

a reason,” remarks the chef. Over at Maison

restaurant,” explains Fu, noting the ‘hidden gem’

Marunouchi, Calvert and his team will serve up

feel evoked by an array of distinct seating areas,

fresh interpretations of bistro fare against views

each carefully curated with signature touches.

of Marunouchi and Tokyo Station.

Effervescent colours flow into sculpturally fluid

“What sets apart our upcoming dining

silhouettes, setting a tone that is contemporary

destination is that every single element builds

yet relaxed – “a quiet elegance that’s designed to

towards Chef Daniel’s vision as realised by André

welcome, not overwhelm,” says Fu. The designer

Fu,” explains General Manager Charles Fisher.

has employed subtle Japanese detailing such as

“Not just the ingredients and menus but also

eucalyptus wood and Zen garden motifs as well

the layout, the décor, the style of service – even

as local artisan-made mud paint to evoke a

the uniforms. All the pieces of the puzzle fit

poetic sense of place.

together seamlessly. We can’t wait for our guests

The destination comprises two distinct venues: Sézanne, a French fine-dining restaurant, and

016

to experience the result of this exceptionally collaborative process.”

APPETISERS

The Art of Bread A new bakery by Slow and Frederik Bille Brahe aims to refresh Berlin’s bread culture.

Claus Sendlinger has already had a significant

honouring an ancient craft and paying tribute to

impact on the world of hospitality through the

the soil and its farmers.”

Design Hotels collective he founded in 1993, and

Sourcing grains from small organic farmers

now he’s set to bring his expertise to the world

across Northern Europe, Sofi’s bakers work to

of dining with the launch of a bakery.

preserve the original flavours, from the wild,

A collaboration between Slow – Sendlinger’s

piquant tang of Emmer to squishy champagne

new hospitality and lifestyle venture – and Danish

rye. Besides three rotating bread varieties – a

chef and restaurateur Frederik Bille Brahe, Sofi

box-fermented, mixed-wheat Berliner loaf,

occupies a restored brick factory in Berlin’s Mitte

a rotating daily loaf and a Danish-inflected

district, and sets out to recover the true flavours

Rugbrød – Sofi offers a selection of cakes, cookies

of ancient grain through its commitment to

and pastries. The bakery has been designed by

honest, low-intervention craft baking. “I

Danish architects Mathias Mentze and Alexander

always dreamed of opening a space in Berlin,”

Vedel Ottensten in collaboration with Dreimeta,

says Brahe, whose Copenhagen restaurants

and aims to be a community hub and supplier to

include Café Atelier September, Apollo Kantine

a selection of local restaurants.

& Bar and Kafeteria in the National Gallery of

“Working

with

Frederik

is an

ideal

Denmark. “When I met Claus in Copenhagen, we

collaboration,” says Serdar Kutucu, CEO of Slow,

quickly connected through our shared vision for a

which has a number of new hotel projects in the

different kind of hospitality. We are hoping to add

works. “We are thrilled to apply some of the

something special to the Berlin food scene, and

insights of the Slow movement – the emphasis

we want to be a part of a bread movement that

on craft, origin, materials, process – to the art

rights some of the wrongs of industrialisation by

of bread baking.”

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APPETISERS

An Epicurean Journey

Raise the Roof Unexpected locations, limited-edition menus and

Running on the rooftop from 16 April to 16

chef residencies are just some of the elements

May 2021, the pop-up has 20 covers plus a

that make for a one-of-a-kind dining experience

private chef’s table and will serve both lunch

synonymous with culinary pop-ups. And it’s not

and dinner. Designed by Ambrosi & Etchegaray,

just diners who find the concept so alluring, but

the restaurant and bar are an extension of the

operators too; pop-ups allow for a new kind of

hotel’s overarching theme and feature funiture

creativity and the freedom to try something new

by La Metropolitana, an interdisciplinary design

without the long-term commitment associated

studio founded in Mexico City.

with permanent restaurants.

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In the kitchen, Pronzato has selected Chef

Hotels across the globe are capitalising on the

Romain Tischenko – of Le Galopin and La Cave à

trend by inviting chefs to create unique culinary

Michel fame – to create an exploration of Mexico’s

experiences for their guests. The latest to get in

rich food culture. Drawing on his experience at

on the act is Grupo Habita’s Círculo Mexicano, a

ONA’s pop-up in Lisbon last year, Tischenko

Design Hotels member in Mexico City. Building

has crafted a six-course tasting menu marrying

on its mission to be a neighbourhood cultural

French technique with ingredients sourced from

haven, the property has unveiled plans for ONA Le

across Mexico. “A temporal project like this is

Toit, a month-long pop-up held in collaboration

ideal for the creative nature of a chef – it allows

with ONA. First launched by Luca Pronzato in

you the freedom to keep experimenting,” says

2019, ONA is a culinary movement offering a new

Tischenko. “I’m coming in with no fixed ideas

platform for young gastronomy talents to express

about what I want to create and will let the

their creativity and further their development.

discovery guide the process.”

With four dining destinations, a Michelin star and a growing collection of rare whiskies, Adare Manor has established itself as one of Ireland’s leading culinary landmarks. Now, the country house hotel – which reopened in 2017 following a major renovation – has published a book to tell the tale of its success. Written by Turtle Bunbury, An Epicurean Journey is a feast of stories and recipes celebrating the talents of the chefs, bakers, chocolatiers and pastry-makers who are constantly nurturing and developing their creative flair. It also shines the spotlight on the quality produce used across the resort, sourced from artisan farms, gardens, orchards and coastal waters across Ireland, which the head chefs visited on a 3,000km road trip to find the best ingredients the country has to offer. Beautifully illustrated with quality photography of the dining venues and its dishes, the 176page hardback book features sommelier recommendations and a look at the cellar; it explores behind the scenes and to the hotel’s beehives; and it showcases the tableware that plays a key role in the presentation of each dish. Recipe highlights include Dooncastle Oyster Teriyaki featuring produce from the west coast; Dexter Beef sourced from a herd that roams Killenure Castle in Co Tiperary; and classic soda bread perfected by the hotel’s own bakers.

ver the past year, with hotel restaurant

bring together hotels and outside food operators

and bars forced to shutter as a

on a larger scale by providing the option of

consequence of the pandemic, operators

leasing out redundant kitchen space or overhaul

have become adept at repurposing their spaces.

existing dining concepts.

Front-of-house, properties have been turned

In the US, Sam Nazarian, founder of hospitality

into housing, hospitals and pop-up offices, while

company SBE, has launched C3 (Creating Culinary

dormant kitchen facilities have embraced a new

Communities), a portfolio of dark kitchens,

disruptive force – the dark kitchen.

culinary brands and lifestyle food halls. The

Otherwise known as ghost or cloud kitchens,

concept already has 200 digital kitchens and

dark kitchens are defined as cooking facilities

eight restaurant brands attached to its name

that produce food for delivery and takeaway

including Umami Burger, Krispy Rice and Bazaar.

only. App-driven businesses such as Deliveroo

In January, Nazarian announced that C3 would be

and Just Eat have been quick to adopt the

joining forces with Graduate Hotels to operate

model, establishing professional-grade kitchens

delivery-focused food halls inside the group’s

in prefabricated structures such as shipping

properties. By mid-2021, C3 will have taken over

containers and renting them out to food outlets.

foodservice operations in six sites, which will see

Lights Out As demand for takeaway and delivery surges, the dark kitchen model provides hotels with an opportunity to evolve its F&B strategy.

020

An Airbnb for the restaurant industry, the model

existing kitchens replaced with multi-branded

allows multiple brands to operate under one roof,

digital kitchens housing up to six food brands.

with drivers ready and waiting to deliver freshly cooked meals at a moment’s notice.

Meanwhile, Hyatt has launched its Hyatt Loves Local initiative, a programme offering kitchen

Creating an opportunity for hospitality brands

space to local businesses that have struggled as a

to grow without the overheads and constraints of

consequence of the pandemic. Over 60 properties

a bricks-and-mortar offering, the model is also

have taken part including Hyatt Regency in

becoming popular amongst entrepreneurs who

Dubai, which provided kitchen facilities to a

are as hesitant about launching physical dining

local confectionary business, and Hyatt Hana-

spaces in the current climate. In 2020 alone,

Maui Resort, which welcomed vendors from a

20,000 new restaurants joined the Deliveroo

local farmers market and provided preparation

platform and 2,000 of the brands available on the

and refrigerator space.

app do not exist in the physical space. Moreover,

Whether hotels will continue to foster these

the ghost kitchen model fuelling these services is

partnerships or jump head first into the booming

predicted to be worth US$1 trillion in the next ten

delivery and dark kitchen market going forward,

years according to Euromonitor, and is proving

remains to be seen. However, seeing F&B through

to be extremely lucrative within the hotel sector.

a non-restaurant lens could make it more

While the concept is not entirely new,

accessible to passing trade, while underutilised

as illustrated by Butler Hospitality, who in

spaces within hotels, such as food preparation

2016 began streamlining in-room dining by

areas, could represent a rare opportunity for

channelling F&B concepts for multiple hotels

profitability at a time when the sector continues

through a single kitchen facility, the model could

to deal with the fallout from the pandemic.

SERVICE

The French Connection A leading authority in French cuisine, Daniel Boulud reflects on more than fifty years of service, his culinary empire and the future of fine dining. Words: Jenna Campbell • Food Photography: © Bill Milne (unless otherwise stated)

n his 2003 book ‘Letters to a Young Chef’, Daniel Boulud

culinary apprentice. From there he moved on to Le Mere

wrote: “I loved restaurant work from the moment I tried

Blanc in Vonnas and Le Moulin de Mougins in the South

on a crisp blue apron (only the chefs wore white). It didn’t

of France, under the influence of leading culinary figures

take long to decide three things: I knew I loved to cook, I

such as Georges Blanc, Roger Vergé and Paul Bocuse. Boulud

knew that I wanted to learn from the masters and I knew

immersed himself in the traditions of Burgundian and

being a chef was the only thing I wanted to be.” That

Lyonnais cuisine, developing skills and cooking techniques,

passion has continued to inform Boulud’s entire career, and

whilst always staying true to the art of French gastronomy.

is evident as we chat on Zoom, where he speaks from New

“In Lyon I would see all of the greatest chefs in city going

York about his culinary career, all the while keeping one eye

to the market as I picked up ingredients for my boss,” recalls

on his eponymous two-star restaurant below.

Boulud. “I was very close to Paul Bocuse throughout my

Since opening in 1993 in Manhattan’s Upper East Side,

career and my life; I don’t know if I would have become the

Daniel has continued to stand out for its dedication to French

chef I am if I hadn’t been from Lyon and had chefs like him

gastronomic excellence. Located on Park Avenue – the

on my doorstep from a young age.”

original site of Le Cirque – the highly garlanded restaurant

Having gained experience in his home country’s most

is a favourite among critics, food connoisseurs and locals,

decorated establishments, Boulud moved to Denmark and

and serves as the headquarters from which Boulud oversees

spent time working at The Plaza Hotel in Copenhagen.

his culinary empire.

“Roger Vergé sent me there because they needed a young

With a career spanning more than five decades, the

chef who could train the Danish chefs and contribute to the

acclaimed chef and restauranteur, who was raised on his

menus,” he explains. “It was fantastic to be in charge and

family’s farm in Saint-Pierre-de-Chandieu just outside

be the only chef translating the cuisine of Roger there, but

Lyon, is a leading authority of French cooking and one of

at the same time I was a still just a junior sous chef learning

the most respected chefs in New York City – the place he has

the ropes.”

called home since the early eighties.

Soon after, he was offered the opportunity to work as the

Boulud’s first steps towards being a chef began at the

private chef to the Ambassador of the European Commission

tender age of 14 as an apprentice at Nandron, a two-star

in Washington DC – a turning point for an ambitious young

restaurant in Lyon where he was nominated as France’s best

chef who was hungry for his next challenge and eager to

make his mark on America. “I wanted to go to New York and be a chef, coming here was a big goal for me, it was a rite of passage.” Arriving in New York in 1982, Boulud made a name for himself working as the Chef-Adjoint at the Polo Lounge in The Westbury Hotel, but it was his next role – a six-year stint as Executive Chef of Le Cirque – where he really demonstrated his flair for French cuisine, developing a signature cooking style guided by seasonality, terroir and Gallic culinary tradition. While seasonality has become a buzzword in kitchens and restaurants around the world, Boulud has long been guided by this approach to ingredients and produce. “My entire life I

“I created many classics in the early stage of Le Cirque and they have become a benchmark and a reference for many of my chefs; some of these dishes haven’t left the menu for 30 years.”

something to repeat next year,” he smiles. Boulud is all for pushing the boundaries. In 2001, his db Burger, an indulgent assembly of sirloin beef stuffed with braised shorts ribs, foie gras and black truffles, served at db Bistro Moderne in New York, set in motion a craze for gourmet burgers, with many others seeking to emulate his success. And now, as the hospitality industry grapples with the ongoing impact of the pandemic, the chef continues to pull out all the stops, adapting menus for delivery and opening up a pop-up dining experience, as he looks to translate the art of fine dining in the age of Coronavirus.

have cooked seasonally, this has always been

In May last year, with the city’s restaurants

the driving force for my menus,” explains the

and bars shuttered, Daniel Boulud Kitchen, a

chef. “When I was offered the job at two top

new delivery concept designed to bring a taste

restaurants in New York, I chose Le Cirque

of Daniel to those at home was launched. The

because I knew I would get the opportunity to

service, which features a weekly changing menu

do what I wanted with the concept.”

of French classics including Provençal-style

During his time at Le Cirque, Boulud sought

roast chicken and bouillabaisse, enabled Boulud

to modernise and evolve, but was mindful of

to bring back some of his brigade and front-

striking the right balance between contemporary

of-house staff. Not long after, Daniel Boulud

dining and traditional French cooking. “They

Kitchen on the Terrace was born, a timely

always had pot-au-feu [French beef stew] on

024

and pecan, it was very popular – definitely

pivot towards outdoor dining in the form of

the menu and whilst it was very well done, it

Miami’s JW Marriott Marquis, to Café Boulud

a sidewalk café at his namesake restaurant. A

was made for a bistro. I elevated the dish to

at Four Seasons Hotels in Toronto and most

more laid-back affair catering to a range of price

be a feast, where we would bring out a platter

recently, Brasserie Boulud, a more casual

points, the chef wanted to recreate his flagship’s

and carve it in front of the guests with a tray

approach to French dining within Sofitel Obelisk

dining experience but with a distinctively more

of 12 different condiments, from pickles and

Dubai, which opened at the end of last year.

casual feel. “We knew we couldn’t serve the

mustards to flavoured oils and butters,” recalls

As we speak, the chef, now 65, is winding

usual restaurant Daniel food and provide the

the chef, lighting up at the memory of his

down after a particularly busy Thanksgiving

same service with all the bells and whistles of a

famous dish. “I created many classics in the

weekend, a military-style operation catering to

premium restaurant,” says the chef.

early stage of Le Cirque and they have become

both indoor and outdoor dining in accordance

As restaurants in New York were given the

a benchmark and a reference for many of my

with New York City’s regulations on restaurant

green light to reopen indoors in September, the

chefs; some of these dishes haven’t left the

capacity in response to the pandemic. Despite

chef, in collaboration with designer Stephanie

menu for 30 years.”

overseeing the roasting of more than 230

Goto, set about temporarily converting his

It is this palpable desire to constantly elevate

turkeys, Boulud, who is always happy to go the

flagship into Boulud Sur Mer – a pop-up homage

French fare that has led Boulud to where he

extra mile in the name of great service, created

to the South of France. Working with Ode &

is today. At present, the chef’s portfolio

a special pie for the occasion – an extravagant

Bastille and ShowMotion to capture the spirit

encompasses fifteen restaurants in locations

take on much-loved American classic. “I made

of the region, guests were transported across

across the globe, from Boulud Sur situated in

a super pie with layers of pumpkin, apple

the Atlantic through the use of fabric screens

SERVICE

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SERVICE

“Every restaurant is in the same situation and has to operate at lower capacity with adapted menus. But I don’t think anyone has lost their appetite for fine dining; they may not want to eat out right now but they will in time.”

evoking a seaside sentiment, while in the main dining

Back in the Big Apple, the chef is forging ahead with

room, walls adorned with Hermes Feuillage wallpaper

his next project, Le Pavillon at One Vanderbilt – a

and an orb-like lighting installation outfitted

newly opened Midtown skyscraper by Grand Central

with lush greenery reflected the ambience. “I love

Station. “It will be a majestic restaurant, a sister

Provençal and Mediterranean cuisine; we have dishes

of Daniel in a way. I don’t want to say it will be a

that are quintessential to the South of France like black

one-star or a two-or three-star, but it will be fine-

seabass on a bed of rice braised with thyme, which are

dining and certainly something of a destination,” says

comforting and make people happy,” explains Boulud.

Boulud. The seafood-centric concept is expected to

With his prix-fixe menus and pop-up dining

open this spring and will be designed by Isay Weinfeld.

concepts expected to be temporary, the chef is

Featuring several private dining rooms, an indoor

optimistic about to the future of fine dining, whatever

garden with a chef’s table and a bar with soaring

form that may take. “Every restaurant is in the same

ceilings, the concept will blend nature and architecture

situation and has to operate at lower capacity with

and serve as a sanctuary for locals and visitors alike.

adapted menus,” he explains. “But I don’t think

“It’s going to be quite striking, the infrastructure has

anyone has lost their appetite for fine dining; they may

very high ceilings with lots of natural light, real trees

not want to eat out right now but they will in time.”

and bushes,” beams the chef. “The dining area will be

Whilst dealing with the present situation in New

by the windows with a floating ceiling above and the

York, late last year, the chef launched Brasserie Boulud,

bar area will be quite romantic. While the restaurant

at Sofitel Obelisk Dubai. “It’s a sister restaurant to

wasn’t built for Covid it can adapt very well – you

Bar Boulud, Café Boulud and db Bistro and it has

almost feel like you’re outdoors.”

the DNA of Daniel Boulud in a beautiful setting with

With more in the works including Café Boulud at

a large open kitchen at the centre of the space,”

Rosewood Baha Mar in The Bahamas, and almost

explains the chef. Designed by WA International,

twenty years after he penned ‘Letters to a Young Chef’,

the Art Deco-inspired restaurant, featuring soaring

Boulud has more than surpassed his own expectations.

mirrored ceilings, marble floors and eye-catching

While his career has brought him many accolades

glass chandeliers is being overseen by chef de cuisine

and won him a devoted following both back in his

Nicholas Lemoyne, who has worked for both Boulud

home country and his adopted one, underpinning his

and the Paul Bocuse group in the past, and is well

success is a commitment to technique, seasonality and

placed to bring the chef’s vision to life. Drawing on

innovation. Moreover, his creative flair and ability to

number of influences, dishes range from traditional

move with the times has enabled him to craft soulful

French bistro classics like duck leg confit with green

and imaginative dishes that offer contemporary

lentils to Middle Eastern-inspired lamb shank with

appeal, whilst always staying grounded in the art of

turnips, carrots and lemon confit, as well as a number

French culinary tradition.

of Mediterranean-led accompaniments such as patatas bravas and parmesan-garlic polenta.

027

Crowning Glory As Crown Sydney makes its debut, Culinary Ambassador Guillaume Brahimi and Culinary Director Sarah Briegel talk local provenance and showcasing the best of New South Wales. Words: Lauren Jade Hill

or a hotel that’s been a decade in the making, having first been talked about in 2012 before receiving final approval in 2016, Crown Sydney opened with relatively little fanfare. This low-key, mid-pandemic debut has been far from under the radar amongst locals however, with Sydneysiders

flocking to the property before the borders reopen. “It’s like we’re doing an opening for the locals, for the

Sydney people who are usually travelling and instead having a staycation,” enthuses the brand-new property’s Culinary Ambassador, Guillaume Brahimi. “Now, the borders of the other states in Australia have opened too, so we’re starting to see people from South Australia, Brisbane, Queensland. We’re slowly opening to the rest of Australia and it’s going to be amazing when we’re able to welcome people from across the world to see what we’ve created.” Crown Sydney is certainly impressive. Located on the Barangaroo waterfront, the landmark skyscraper by British architectural firm Wilkinson Eyre is the tallest in the city – rising to a lofty 275 metres – and offers panoramic views across the famous bridge and harbour. Inside, the hotel encompasses 349 guestrooms and suites, along with butler-serviced villas and an expansive spa. What is perhaps most exciting though is its ambitious culinary offering and world-class chef line-up. Overseen by Culinary Director

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MEETING…

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At Woodcut, menus drawing on fire, steam, smoke and ice feature delicacies such as Sydney Rock oysters along with local seafood

Sarah Briegel and championed by Brahimi, a long-time friend of Crown Hotels, the property showcases some of Australia’s greatest culinary talent, significantly enhancing Sydney’s already compelling dining scene. “For me, there really is nothing else like Crown Sydney,” says Briegel. “It’s an amazing location and it has spectacular views. It’s a beautiful building and when the light catches it, it shines in the most incredible way. Every restaurant concept is so different you really could come here for days and have no need to step outside.” Brahimi is equally passionate about the venture. “I’ve been lucky to open a few restaurants in my lifetime but here I’m a part of not one but ten restaurant openings,”

“Australia now has a number of small farms that specialise in a specific product; it’s nice to be able to spend time locating those farms and promoting the people who put all their time and dedication into what they do.” SARAH BRIEGEL

appointed, the French-born, Sydney-based chef, who originally trained under Joel Robuchon, had established a number of acclaimed restaurants including Guillaume at Bennelong, located at Sydney Opera House, and his two eponymous restaurants at Crown properties in Melbourne and Perth. At Crown Sydney, he’s able to draw on his now extensive culinary network. “I am a French man in Australia, but Sydney is my hometown,” he explains. “Part of my role involves connecting with local suppliers and producers and thinking about how we can showcase more of this great state. Crown Sydney is like a window for New South Wales; we can support the local growers, winemakers and fishermen.” As international as Crown Sydney’s culinary

he adds. “Being a part of so many venues is

offering is in gastronomic styles, the common

overwhelmingly exciting.”

thread running through all of its food-driven

Guests are able to dine at Italian restaurant

venues is a reverence for Australian produce.

A‘Mare of Sydney chef and restaurateur

The hotel celebrates the nation’s abundance

Alessandro Pavoni; they can visit the newest

of fresh products in menus, fusing authentic

Australia opening of Nobu Matsuhisa; sushi

recipes from around the world with local

master Ryuichi Yoshii is inviting gourmands

identity, giving a sense of place. “We’re big on

into his ten-seat Omakase; and award-winning

sustainable produce,” says Briegel. “Australia

culinary duo Ross and Sunny Lusted are hosting

now has a number of small farms that specialise As Culinary Director, Australian-born chef

in a specific product; it’s nice to be able to spend

Sarah Briegel is charged with overseeing the

time locating those farms and promoting the

And the line-up continues. Diners can tuck

restaurants, drawing on 27 years of experience

people who put all their time and dedication

into Cantonese plates at opulent fine-dining

working in kitchens across the world to come

into what they do.”

venue Silks and indulge in the glut of global

up with new ideas, create menus and lead the

The restaurant of Ross and Sunny Lusted,

flavours from the open kitchens of Epicurean.

general day-to-day running of each venue. “I’ve

Woodcut, epitomises this culinary philosophy.

Teahouse offers decadent bites, specialty teas

taken inspiration from my journey and sprinkled

Here the husband-and-wife, chef-and-

and cocktails in a lounge inspired by a Chinese

that across the hotel,” she says, recounting her

restaurateur team showcase a wealth of

teahouse; 88 Noodle is reminiscent of the

route from kitchen to kitchen. Before taking

Australian produce cooked with wood, charcoal

noodle houses found in Shanghai; while TWR

up the role at Crown Sydney, Briegel lived and

and steam, evoking the earthiness of meals

serves classic dishes along with afternoon tea

worked in food capitals including London, New

cooked in over an open fire. Menus drawing

and time-honoured cocktails in a glamorous

York, Dubai, Hong Kong and Bangkok, most

on fire, steam, smoke and ice feature delicacies

space aiming to rival the world’s best hotel

recently making a mark as the Executive Chef

such as Sydney Rock oysters from the seafood

lobby bars. As if that wasn’t enough, there’s

of Mandarin Oriental in Shanghai. “Every outlet

counter, along with local seafood and meat

more to come. The Italian café and pizzeria

draws on my own experiences and a lot of them

that’s raw, cured and ash- or wood-grilled.

Il Caffé is next to make its debut, along with

feature my favourite dishes from different parts

“At Woodcut, it’s Ross’s approach that really

the eagerly awaited rooftop bar Cirq. The first

of the world,” she continues. “I love to share

makes the food stand out,” Brahimi explains.

Australian restaurant of Clare Smyth, Encore,

those experiences with staff and get them

“He lets the produce do the talking, sourcing

is then due to open mid-2021, following in the

excited about what they’re doing.”

the best ingredients from season to season

at Woodcut, their latest restaurant celebrating Australian produce.

footsteps of her newly three-Michelin-starred London restaurant Core.

Brahimi meanwhile supports Briegel through

and avoiding using too many ingredients.”

his culinary ambassador role. Before being

Briegel picks up: “Ross is about finding the

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032

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small producer; he looks for those with a story

Brahimi enthuses. “Here, we are proud to be a

behind what they do and who just turns out

part of Sydney, a part of New South Wales and

small amounts – he loves it when he can get

a part of Australia.”

exclusivity on something. His food is honest and it’s beautifully cooked.”

Elsewhere in the hotel, Alessandro Pavoni is making waves with the Italian dishes of A‘Mare,

The hotel’s Nobu restaurant also takes pride

pairing Australian produce with home-style

in instilling a sense of place through its food,

Italian cooking – his pesto, which is made

with the head chef Harold Hurtada – who was

tableside, is already a classic on Sydney’s dining

previously head chef at Nobu One & Only Cape

scene. And at Yoshii’s Omakase, Ryuichi Yoshii

Town, and before that, Nobu Dubai – combining

is turning heads with his continually changing

signature Nobu dishes and his own inventive

menus incorporating the very best ingredients

creations with local flavours. “The Nobu

growers and fishermen bring each day. From

philosophy is there – you have classic dishes

delicately crafted dumplings to freshly baked

like the famous black cod – but chef is working

focaccia, craftsmanship shines through in each

with local products,” says Brahimi. “That’s

of the restaurant’s dishes.

where I think the success of the brand comes

Now, the hotel is preparing to welcome

from – wherever you are in the world, you’re

Encore by Clare Smyth, where the acclaimed

eating local.”

chef’s culinary innovations will again reflect

The eating local philosophy is one that touches

local flavours. “We’re really looking forward to

every restaurant with the hotel. “Around 95% of

having Clare here,” concludes Briegel. “Having

the fresh produce comes from New South Wales

followed her work for years, I’m excited to see

and that’s a credit to Sarah’s effort in sourcing

her work in person. It’s a really exciting venture

this produce in the months before opening,”

for the hotel.”

“Part of my role involves connecting with local suppliers and producers and thinking about how we can showcase more of this great state.” GUILLAUME BRAHIMI

033

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Columns NEW ORLEANS

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Arnaud Montagard

IN A BITE Owner: Jayson Seidman Operator: Sandstone Interior Design: Jayson Seidman F&B Consultant: Porch Swing Hospitality Head Chef: Paul Terrebonne Executive Chef: Michael Stoltzfus F&B Manager: Meghan Pecoraro Head Bartender: Carlos Quinonez www.thecolumns.com

034

onceived by hotelier Jayson Seidman in

knowing I was going to get a unique dining

collaboration with chef Michael Stoltzfus,

experience regardless of the season or menu.”

the bar and restaurant at the newly

Overseen by Stoltzfus – known for his James

renovated Columns hotel – now, simply referred

Beard Award-nominated eatery Coquette – the

to as Columns – in New Orleans’ Garden District

new food and drink concept centres on dinner

pays respect to the property’s storied past and

classics and cocktail fare focused on Southern

its promising future.

American and global cuisine. With extensive

Built in 1883, the property was acquired by

open-air seating on the hotel’s sprawling

Seidman in 2019 and has been has sensitively

porch, Columns’ dining experience nods to the

renovated, preserving many of the building’s

innovative and seasonal nature of southern

original architectural details including a

cooking and its location’s laid-back character.

mahogany stairwell and stained-glass skylight.

Menu highlights include small plates of Roast

Layering on the existing 19th century aesthetic,

Gulf Oysters and Broadbent Country Ham, with

the 20-key property is punctuated with

entrees such as the Columns Burger with pepper

furniture, a whimsical mix of Mid-Century and

marmalade, andouille and ricotta, as well as

Art Noveau lighting and original wallpaper.

chicken with boudin blanc, smoked oyster and

“I wanted the new concepts at Columns to be

marinated kale.

a seamless balance of design and restoration,”

“Maintaining a sense of place has always been

explains Seidman. “Over the years of both

a guiding principle in our food and service,”

visiting and living in New Orleans I found

says Stoltzfus. “Columns presents a unique

myself attracted to what Mike accomplished

opportunity for us to reinterpret some classic

at Coquette for those exact reasons. I enjoyed

flavours and dishes of South Louisiana while

the neighbourhood environment, while also

paying homage to a St. Charles institution.”

GUARDS AND SHROUDS BUFFET AND DINING PROTECTORS Carefully created with some of the world’s best chefs, our shrouds and guards collection have been designed with invisibility in mind. We know the delicate and fine artistry that goes into food design, which is why these products are crafted to let culinary delight take centre stage, whilst also keeping customers safe, and food clean.

E-LABEL DIGITAL NAMING DISPLAY Programmable within seconds and featuring a range of customisable fonts, these sleek, easy-to-operate digital signs are designed to save hours spent creating wayfinding, menu offerings, and outlining dietary descriptions.

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Serena Moxy South Beach MIAMI

Words: Eleanor Howard Photography: © Michael Kleinberg

IN A BITE Owner: Lightstone Operator: Coyo Taco Group Architecture: Kobi Karp Architecture Interior Design: Saladino Design Studios Head Chef: Scott Linquist F&B Director: John Eldridge Head Bartender: Christian Rubio Head Sommelier: John Eldridge www.serenamiami.com

036

ighting up Miami’s Art Deco district is

arrangements of plush sofas, banquettes,

the newly opened Moxy South Beach.

swinging bar stools, cushioned wrought-iron

Marking a new chapter for hospitality in

chairs and ceramic-tile tabletops. A domed

Miami Beach, the 202-key, eight-storey hotel

cast-iron canopy strung with twinkling

celebrates the city’s cosmopolitan culture and

lights and fragrant bougainvillea evokes the

breezy outdoor living, as well as blending the

indigenous markets of Michoacán, Tepoztlán,

glamour of Mid-Century Havana with the

and other Mexican locales.

artistry of contemporary Mexico City.

An outdoor kitchen – featuring a large

Moxy’s first resort-style outpost offers a

circular stone mill and a traditional comal –

diverse culinary line-up that spans six new

enables diners to watch Chef Scott Linquist and

dining and drinking venues, all operated

his team make nixtamal (corn) by grinding and

by the founders of Miami’s Coyo Taco and

shaping it by hand into fresh tortillas before

1-800-Lucky. One of the first to make its

cooking on a comal. Serena is one of the few

debut is Serena, an open-air restaurant and bar

establishments in Miami to follow this detailed

designed Saladino Design Studios.

process to produce dishes such as Uni and Crab

Located on a vibrant, planted terrace on the

Tostadas and Squash Blossom Quesadillas.

second floor, Serena channels the enchanting

Creative cocktails devised by acclaimed

rooftop and patio restaurants of Oaxaca and

mixologist Christian Rubio, along with beers

Mexico City. Inspired by the brightly hued works

and wines, are prepared in the greenhouse-like

of the great Modernist architect Luis Barragán,

bar with glass garage-style doors that open to

Serena’s garden-like outdoor dining area is a

warm beach breezes. Inside, the lounge has

vibrant mosaic in bold shades of pink, orange,

blue-painted beam ceilings and mosaic tiles

coral and blue, with fun and eclectic seating

reminiscent of an antique fountain.

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GLASS info@wooliweiss.it www.wooliweiss.it +39 0422 1572787

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Bisushima Page8 Hotel LONDON

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Courtesy of Bisushima

ituated on the sixth floor of the recently

referencing the mending technique of Kintsugi,

renovated Page8 hotel in Covent Garden,

in which broken pottery is mended with lacquer

Bisushima is a contemporary Japanese

dusted with powdered gold, silver or platinum.

restaurant envisaged by restaurateur Sergey

Japanese influence can also be seen in a blue and

Men, offering well-balanced, flavoursome

gold mural, which pays homage to traditional

dishes in a minimalist environment.

landscape art and highlights the transition

In addition to the main dining area, the

from light to dark. By day, the restaurant,

restaurant features a separate bar and two

offers a calm and tranquil dining space, but

extensive roof terraces, offering outdoor dining

as the evening arrives it showcases the drama

and spectacular views of the London skyline.

of Japanese cookery, with chefs preparing and

Guided by harmony and balance – principles described as being fundamental to the essence

IN A BITE Owner: Sergey Men, Ruslan Ugarov Operator: Amaberry Interior Design: Ben Adams Architects F&B Consultant: Takuya Watanabe Head Chef: Alessandro Furusawa-Cadoni Head Bartender: Mario Romano www.bisushima.com

038

presenting a seasonally-minded menu using the large open grill and counter.

of Japanese philosophy within art, design and

Having worked as a sushi chef in kitchens

daily life – Ben Adams Architects have sought to

across the world, Sergey Men’s signature style

deliver a design aesthetic rooted in the concept

is evident throughout, with plates of sashimi,

of Shinrin-yoku – or nature therapy – to create

maki and a luxury black caviar illustrating

a sanctuary in the city.

the influences of global cuisine. Serving only

To ensure a harmonious relationship between

premium fish and meat, menu highlights

food, guest and environment, the space, which

include Pork Tonkatsu, Butterflied Seabream

features grey leather banquettes, concrete

and Japanese Omelette with fresh white truffle.

floors and warm wooden accents of European

Meanwhile, the drinks programme encompasses

oak, is elevated by a coffered ceiling with an

wine, sake and traditional cocktails, alongside

integrated bespoke lighting concept – the latter

mocktails and sparkling matcha tea.

‘‘A free interpretation of a remarkable vintage.’’

The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584

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09/03/2021 15:14

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Beefbar Four Seasons Astir Palace

and airy, with a palette of earthy browns and

property in Greece in 2019, it brought

terracotta contrasting with Mediterranean

with it a wide variety of dining

blues. The dining areas feature tabletops made

options, from a traditional Italian trattoria and

from ceramic tiling bearing a painted design

Latin American grill to venues specialising in

and are accompanied by handcrafted ceramic

ATHENS

freshly-caught seafood and local Greek fare. The

lighting, while an installation of woven baskets

pine-clad peninsula was already an established

hanging from above adds character.

Words: Eleanor Howard Photography: © Francis Amiand

dining destination thanks to the popularity of

The dining experience focuses on street food

Nobu’s Matsuhisa restaurant, which stands in

inspired by classic recipes and features the

the grounds of Astir Palace, and now, Beefbar

finest cuts of Black Angus beef from the USA

has arrived to further enhance the line-up.

alongside grass-fed Angus beef from Argentina

IN A BITE Owner: Wafic Idriss Operator: Beefbar Architecture: Aeter Architects Interior Design: Humbert & Poyet F&B Consultant: Riccardo Giraudi Head Chef: Panagiotis Retzis F&B Manager: Nikos Chatzipetros Cutlery: David Mellor Tableware: La Tavola, Degrenne Glassware: Riedel, Spiegelau, LSA www.athens.beefbar.com

040

hen Four Seasons opened its first

The concept, developed by Riccardo Giraudi,

and certified Japanese Kobe beef, all served

describes itself specifically as a beef bar rather

with David Mellor steak knives on tableware

than a steakhouse, and counts a growing number

by Degrenne and La Tavola. While the menu

of destinations from Monte Carlo to Hong Kong.

borrows from a host of international styles –

The new addition continues a longstanding

tostaditas, bao buns and tempura all feature –

creative partnership with Humbert & Poyet,

there’s Greek influence thanks to the addition of

who were this time tasked with translating

gyros, feta cheese and local herbs. The cocktail

the cosmopolitan culture of the brand to the

menu also features a touch of the locale with

Athenian coastal setting.

Mediteranean gin-and-tonics alongside

Drawing inspiration from the colours and

signatures such as the Beefbar spritz, served in

textures of the surrounding landscape, the

LSA glassware and best enjoyed on the terrace

interiors have been designed to feel light

with views of the ocean and mountains beyond.

The ultimate strong, thin, light, dishwasher safe and anti-scratch glassware combining traditional Japanese craftmanship with cutting-edge design

www.toyo.sasaki.co.jp/e @toyo_sasaki_glass

The Aubrey Mandarin Oriental HONG KONG Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong reinvets its F&B offer with an eccentric Japanese izakaya developed in partnership with Maximal Concepts. Words: Chris Dwyer • Photography: Courtesy of Mandarin Oriental (unless otherwise stated)

n a city known for its world-class dining

Interiors channel Japanisme, an artistic and

scene, few restaurant and bar openings have

aesthetic movement of the late 19th century

been as anticipated as The Aubrey at Mandarin

where Western artists were drawn to traditional

Oriental Hong Kong. Since first opening its

Japanese artistic expression, in particular its

doors back in 1963, the storied five-star hotel

love of motifs from the natural world. Indeed,

has remained a fulcrum of the city’s commercial

The Aubrey is named after the eccentric British

and social scene, with its collection of bars and

illustrator and author Aubrey Beardsley, who

restaurants drawing the city’s elite.

undoubtedly had a penchant for the decadent

When it was announced then that Pierre, a two

“We’re celebrating the idea that travel –

legend Pierre Gagnaire was to be replaced by an

and Hong Kong’s reputation as a cultural

‘eccentric Japanese izakaya’, it’s fair to say that

crossroads – brings creativity and ideas,” Matt

a number of eyebrows were raised.

Reid, Founding Director of Maximal Concepts

One thing that the Mandarin Oriental’s

explains. “The Aubrey doesn’t look Japanese

flagship home property has never been afraid

so we needed something to anchor it back to

of however, is adapting to changing times and

an izakaya, hence the place is pretty eccentric.

tastes, so The Aubrey’s three distinctive bar

When you see the interior design, it definitely

experiences, drawing room and curio lounge –

has that feeling of when you go to a kooky

all serving Japanese cuisine throughout the day

location in Ginza, in Tokyo.”

– certainly prove their point.

042

and erotic.

Michelin-starred restaurant by French culinary

To bring this ambitious vision to life, Maximal

The venture is a partnership between the

Concepts worked in tandem with Singapore-

hotel and Maximal Concepts, an international

based design firm Silverfox Studios, a previous

restaurant group based in Hong Kong, helmed

Mandarin Oriental creative partner. However,

by Malcolm Wood, Xuan Mu and Matt Reid.

following an initial visit even before the former

Together they have set out to develop ‘the

restaurant Pierre had shuttered, Silverfox

city’s most creative hospitality destination’

Studios never saw the project in person again.

and the backstory behind the 25th floor spot is

That was, of course, due to Covid, a situation

undoubtedly intriguing.

which raised some unique challenges, as Reid

MAIN COURSE

043

Menu highlights include fried rice with wagyu oxtail and bone marrow, and charcoal chicken karaage served with yuzu mayo

explains: “In essence, we took on part of the

The bar’s creative concoctions are further

role, sourcing a lot of the materiality – we even

enhanced by premium glassware from the likes

made the carpets! My art director Amy Walsh,

of Toyo-Sasaki and Zafferano, as well as Stölzle

a wonderful creative, did a lot of the curatorial

Lausitz’s Quatrophil and Classic glass ranges.

work, the buying of the Japanese art collection,

Off to the left is the second spot for drinks,

curios and antiques from flea markets in Hong

a compact four-seat Omakase Cocktail Bar

Kong and auctions around the world.”

with a fabulous and envy-inducing range of

With this is mind, The Aubrey’s final look and

Japanese whiskies and spirits. The schtick

feel is all the more remarkable. Guests enter

is that the barman takes you on a Japanese

down a corridor lined with original Japanisme-

journey of bespoke drinks, crafted in front of

inspired artworks, then through traditional

you with seasonal produce, all depending on

noren curtains. Thereafter, Japanese design

your preferences.

elements are more discreet.

044

Amidst the sleek and tactile collection of

The Main Bar is the first of three in the

marble, brass, velvet, crystal and wood surfaces,

space, an elegant spot helmed by Devender

one surprise is that the famed million-dollar

Sehgal, who oversees the beverage programme

views of Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour have

across The Aubrey. Formerly drinks maestro at

taken something of a back seat. Reid explains:

Hong Kong’s three Michelin-starred restaurant

“Most designs design for a view – with large

Otto e Mezzo, his first menu includes a nod to

windows and chairs facing outwards. Here,

the Netflix chess smash Queen’s Gambit with

we wanted to try and create more atmosphere

creations featuring Japanese ingredients such

internally, letting the view interact with the

as Roku gin in The Queen’s Gimlet, shochu and

design rather than being the solo hero element

shiso in The First Move and wasabi in Endgame.

of the experience.”

MAIN COURSE

The Aubrey’s flow continues seamlessly into

mushrooms in a delicious creamy tahini-like

a conservatory-style room decked with hanging

sauce and a fabulous Saikyo Miso Sablefish.

plants, a cabinet of antiques and curios, deep

While this is normally served with black cod

sofas, Tiffany-style lights and a mural of a crane

or sablefish, both Mandarin Oriental and

by Elsa Jeandedieu Studio. It takes a champagne

Maximal Concepts have sustainability as a core

and sparkling sake bar at one end and a pair of

tenet, meaning that this endangered species

DJ decks to remind you that you’re not in the

is replaced with sablefish, sustainably farmed

home of an eccentric, well-travelled friend.

within Arctic waters. Indeed, even their tuna

The kitchen is helmed by Japanese Chef Yukihito Tomiyama, an alum of one Michelin-

near Adelaide, South Australia.

starred Shinji by Kanaseka in nearby Macau,

The desserts are worth a mention too,

with the approach being that guests can dine

particularly the lighter-than-air White Miso

in any of the spaces. The menu encompasses

Soufflé, which – like all dishes – is served on

Japan’s most renowned culinary techniques,

plateware customised by Japanese artists.

be they sushi and sashimi, a robata grill with

Ultimately The Aubrey delivers impressively

binchotan charcoal or delicate tempura. One

on its promise to provoke ‘a sense of wonder,

already popular option has been traditional

curiosity and discovery of food and travel’. Its

bento box meals – but this being Mandarin

brave new culinary and creative direction looks

Oriental, they’re served in elegant, hand-carved

set to ensure that Mandarin Oriental Hong

wooden boxes.

Kong, remains an iconic cultural meeting point

From the à la carte menu, standouts are a decadent fried rice with wagyu oxtail and bone marrow, a bowl of baby eggplant and shiitake

046

is sourced responsibly and comes from a farm

for a whole new generation.

IN A BITE Operator: Mandarin Oriental, Maximal Concepts Architecture: Wilkinson & Cilley Interior Design: Silverfox Studios, Maximal Concepts Branding: Maximal Concepts Chef: Yukihito Tomiyama Glassware: Stölzle Lausitz, Toyo-Sasaki, Zafferano www.mandarinoriental.com

048

MAIN COURSE

Forestis DOLOMITES Using the surrounding forest as its main supplier, a new culinary experience in the Dolomites brings pine to the plate. Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: © Konstantin Volkmar

tanding at 1,800 metres above sea level overlooking the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Dolomites is Forestis – new member of SLH billed as a refuge for

the body and mind. The site of the hotel was originally meant to be a tuberculosis sanatorium commissioned by Emperor Franz Joseph from architect Otto Wagner at the beginning of the 20th century but was never finished due to the war and

turmoil that shook the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. More than a century later, hotelier Alois Hinteregger’s son Stefan Hinteregger and his partner Teresa Unterthiner have brought the healing qualities of the local water, mild climate and sun back to life in an eco-friendly and nature-first hideaway. “For us it all starts with the pure Plose spring water that comes from 50 meters above Forestis,” explains Unterthiner. “We welcome guests with it, we cook with it, we use its healing qualities in the spa and it is complementary to consume all throughout the stay. It is actually one of the purest waters in Europe.” It is therefore no surprise that all possible steps have been taken to make the property as nature-driven and local as possible, a trend clearly embraced by pandemic-rattled travellers looking for peace and quiet in an idyllic setting that contributes to both physical and mental wellbeing. The restaurant, designed by South Tyrolean Armin Sader of hotel architecture firm Asaggio, spans two floors accommodating 140 seats. The lower floor, which opens directly to the adjoining terrace, has been designed in the form of semi-circular booths, giving diners privacy and an unparalleled view of the massifs of the breathtaking

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Using the surrounding forest as its main supplier, the hotel incorporates a variety of fresh and nutritious ingredients into its nature-led F&B offering

050

Dolomites. Breakfast is served buffet-style

The 14-strong kitchen is helmed by Roland

with a selection of in-house baked breads,

Lamprecht, a native from the nearby town of

farmhouse butter, Alpine pasture blossom

Brixen, who over the years developed a friendship

honey, hay milk yoghurt and chocolate spread

with the owners before taking the lead in the

from the Oberhöllerhof amongst a variety of

culinary development of the property. “The

local organic cold cuts and egg dishes made

most exciting thing is definitely the opportunity

to order. Lunch can be chosen from a versatile

to apply and develop my own style of cooking,

menu that highlights international staples with

which is influenced by forest cuisine,” says

local ingredients whilst dinner is where the

Lamprecht. “It is always a great challenge to

unique forest cuisine really comes to life.

create two completely new menus every day at

“For us being local and incorporating the

a high level and to creatively incorporate various

surroundings to our menus is a priority,”

old techniques such as fermentation, smoking

notes Unterthiner. “For example, the father

or drying.”

of our hotel director supplies us with most of

The menu begins with a seasonal salad and

the vegetables that are grown in the region.

fresh bread and butter, followed by a lighter

The tomatoes especially are worth a mention,

dish such as a carpaccio of local calf’s knuckle or

their sweetness and freshness being absolutely

pickled brook trout from the Eisack valley before

unbeatable.” Whilst a traditional mountain

moving on to the soup course velouté of ‘Good

menu might feel heavy, the seven-course

Henry’ – a nutritious and tasty vegetable from

dinner menu is definitely more refined, catering

the nearby meadows with immune boosting

to both meat and fish lovers as well as offering

qualities. Being in Italy one cannot escape the

a detox version to accommodate vegan and

pasta dish, but Lamprecht makes sure it does

vegetarian dietary requirements.

not overwhelm the meal. Whilst meat-eaters

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might thereafter get a taste of the local venison,

think the pandemic will bring guests back to

the detox menu delivers one of the house

their original values. It has shown us how small

specialities – pearl barley risotto with mountain

and clumsy humans are in the face of nature’s

artichoke and spruce oil.

whims. In the future, we will certainly pay even

Using the surrounding forest as their main

more attention to regionality because what

supplier the culinary team finds creative ways

would we have done without local producers

to incorporate the four main trees – spruce,

when borders were closed and supermarket

mountain pine, larch and stone pine – into

shelves were getting emptier?”

their creations. Head of Bar, Tim Biebighäuser-

It is without a doubt that Forestis has tapped

Becker, uses local gin and vodka to infuse with

the vast opportunity in the self-care and

the various fresh sprigs. Guests can enjoy both

wellness vertical. Having only been able to open

cocktails and mocktails from many variations,

for a couple of months to prove their concept and

such as a Smokey Root that includes stone pine,

gain traction in the travel space, the property

local whiskey, black walnut, beetroot and bitters

has already made headway and the culinary

or a White Tribe of spruce, local vodka, honey,

team is only getting started. “I believe that the

thyme, lime and egg white. Head Sommelier

trend towards healthy eating and alternative

Peter Frank makes sure that more than half of

diets is even stronger than it was before the

the wine list showcases local grape varieties

pandemic,” concludes the chef. “Therefore, I

such as Kerner, Silvaner and Lagrein, leaving

think we are already on the right track with

some space for Italian and world classics.

our food concept. Nevertheless, in the future

As the team awaits to open the doors to guests

we will focus even more on the health aspect

again, Lamprecht is convinced that the past

of the dishes because, in my opinion, people’s

year has had a lasting impact on travellers. “I

health is strongly related to their nutrition.”

IN A BITE Owners: Teresa Unterthiner, Stefan Hinteregger Architecture and Interior Design: Asaggio Head Chef: Roland Lamprecht Sous Chef: Felix Tauber Pastry Chef: Julia Kofler F&B Manager: Rico Haus Head Bartender: Tim Biebighäuser-Becker Head Sommelier: Peter Frank www.forestis.it

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Kingsland Locke LONDON Locke’s latest outpost celebrates the social fabric of Dalston and vibrancy of America’s west coast, whilst breaking boundaries with its on-site brewery and distillery. Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Hayden Perrior (unless otherwise stated)

parthotels have seen increased demand

most eclectic neighbourhoods – opened in

in recent years, but in 2020 the model

January and represents a continuation of this

really came into its own and was able to

winning formula. Comprising 124 signature

navigate Covid-19 far better than its traditional

studio apartments, a co-working space and

hotel counterparts. These home-meets-hotel

workout studio, the property also boasts its own

offerings, characterised by self-contained units

microbrewery and gin distillery, alongside an

and long-stay flexibility, were hot property

all-day restaurant and coffee shop. “Kingsland

before the pandemic, but in the era of social

Locke marks our fourth property to open in

distancing have proven to be both resilient and

London and is a particularly exciting launch for

forward-thinking.

us all,” says Stephen McCall, CEO of Locke’s

This is partly due to a host of new players

parent group Edyn. “This launch, as with other

who have come onto the scene and established

Locke openings, has been about championing

design-led, community driven hybrids. One such

the local Dalston area and seeking partners and

player is Locke, which is known for blending

collaborators that call the area home – from

traditional aparthotel formats with the intuitive

architects to artists.”

design, local collaborations and disruptive F&B

The interiors, conceived by interior design

of a lifestyle hotel. This approach has enabled

firm Red Deer, reflect the culture and happenings

the brand to establish several properties in

of the area’s markets and shops – grounding the

the UK including sites in London, Manchester

hotel within the local community. “The design

and Edinburgh, with further openings planned

of Kingsland Locke maintains the hallmarks of

across Europe over the next few years.

design that guests can expect at all our locations

Its latest opening, Kingsland Locke, located

– which combines the space and convenience of

in heart of Dalston – one of East London’s

an aspirational apartment, with the activated

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Comprising 124 apartments, Kingland Locke also features on-site microbrewery and gin distillery, alongside an all-day restaurant and coffee shop

‘Instagrammable’ social spaces you would expect at

known as Kraft Dalston, is a joint venture between

a lifestyle hotel,” says Eric Jafari, Chief Development

German Kraft Beer, Jim and Tonic Distillery and

Officer and Creative Director of Edyn. “But given the

restaurant chain Le Bab. “It’s a contemporary

property’s location in the heart of Dalston, we wanted

interpretation of a ‘tank bar’ and restaurant, briming

to embed vernacular references deep into the fabric

with carefully curated wines, spirits and a tailored

of the building, so it felt apt to partner with an East

cocktail menu with a molecular twist from Jim and

London-based studio such as Red Deer.”

Tonic’s head bartender, where the foods pair perfectly

Commenting on the design narrative, Lucas Che

with beers and gin produced on site,” says Felix

Tizard, one of the Founding Directors of Red Deer adds:

Bollen, Director of German Kraft Beer. “The concept

“The design inspiration was instigated by two main

is anything but ordinary; upstairs you can eat and

sources: the Locke brand, which draws from the sun-

drink around the large oval bar with six eye-catching

drenched vibrancy of the west coast of America, and

serving tanks, while the comfy co-working space acts

the locality of Dalston. These don’t seem like a typical

as both an extension and a bridge between the bar and

combination and are on first consideration polar

the hotel, bringing a cohesive feel to the space and

opposites. They do however share some similarities

mirroring the overlap of our partnership.”

and we wanted to celebrate these commonalities by bringing them into the design of the hotel.”

Kingsland Locke’s on-site microbrewery is at the heart of the F&B concept and enables the outlet to

Hallways at Kingsland Locke take on a millennial pink

reduce its CO2 footprint by 75%. “By only offering

shade, whilst joinery pieces such as the reception desk

our beer fresh on site we eliminate the use of bottles,

and waiter stations mimic the vernacular of market

cans or plastic kegs as well as the transportation of the

stalls by using metal framing against a melange of

heavy liquids. In addition, we recapture most of our

colour tiling. The upholstery of the banquette seating

energy through condensation to reuse it for the next

in the bar and restaurant are inspired by the London

brews,” explains Bollen. “Our German-style beers

Overground, while communal spaces feature an array

are well known for their drinkability and wide appeal,

of lush planting and biophilic details. “Greenery felt

exploring the complexity of beer which in the UK is

really natural for the design aesthetic and direction

only known as lager. We serve the beer straight from

given the busy urban location of Dalston,” says Che

the tank so that it can stay unfiltered, unpasteurised

Tizard. “Plant life seemed like a good option to achieve

and without additives.”

this whilst also heightening the sense of diverging

Embodying a similar sustainability ethos, Jim and

environments. We wanted to celebrate the culmination

Tonic’s spirits are distilled using pioneering techniques

of many different paths crossing, from the richness of

to reduce waste, reuse resources and regenerate its

Le Bab’s food offering to the ebullience of the Kraft

surroundings. Waste from gin production is also used

brewers and the considered roasters of Shaman Coffee,

to make the brand’s zero-waste vodka, which is used

all within the locality of Kingsland Road, which also

as fertiliser to grow botanicals.

shares many unifying paths.” Kingsland Locke’s all-day food and drink offering,

The downstairs restaurant, which is housed within an expansive glass atrium, is situated between the

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brewhouse and distillery, giving guests the

the large windows opening directly onto the

opportunity to watch cutting-edge drink

street, in addition to those using the co-working

production in action while grabbing a bite to

space. Reflecting the evolving nature of hotel

eat from Le Bab – a group of modern kebab

F&B and the growing demand for grab-and-

restaurants with additional sites in Soho and

go options, guests can also buy pre-batched

Covent Garden. “We chose Le Bab because

cocktails, fresh growlers of beer or kebabs to

of their approach to merging innovation and

enjoy in their room, while after hours, Locke’s

provenance,” explains Jafari. “They started Le

reception is stocked with Kraft products to keep

Bab inspired by the traditional kebabs found in

guests hydrated both day and night.

Dalston, which they deconstructed, combined

“By partnering and collaborating with local

with other cuisines and cooking techniques and

best-in-class talent, we are fortunate enough

implemented with a modern twist. Returning to

to create experiences that reflect the fabric

the place where the idea first started felt like a

and needs of the micro-locality, instead of

homage to the area.”

importing one that has worked elsewhere and

Cooked on a wood and charcoal-filled robata, slider-sized kebabs are complemented by donor

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may not be needed in that particular locality,” concludes Jafari.

beignets with garlic mayonnaise and house

Creating a destination for both guests and

chilli sauce, and chargrilled broccoli with rich

locals is no easy feat, especially during a

and smoky chipotle tahini.

pandemic, but for aparthotel brands like Locke,

Shaman Coffee, which has partnered with

who have successfully integrated themselves

Locke on its other properties in London, also

into the rich tapestry of London’s most eclectic

has a presence at the hotel. Focusing on locally

neighbourhoods, the future, both at home and

sourced ingredients, Shaman serves locals via

away, looks bright.

IN A BITE Owner: Aprirose Operator: Edyn, Kraft, The Initiative Group Architecture: Barton Willmore Interior Design: Red Deer Head Chef: Rob Trif Sous Chef: Kirri Krishnarajah F&B Manager: Bill Marsden Head Bartender: Jose Beltran Head Sommelier: Helen Busch www.lockeliving.com

Torel Palace PORTO Drawing inspiration from Portuguese literature, the story of Torel Boutiques’ fifth property is brought to life through sensitive design and a one-of-a-kind culinary experience. Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Carlos Vieira

haracterised by cobbled streets and narrow

group’s other properties including Torel Palace Lisbon and

passageways meandering past pastel-coloured

the common areas of Torel Avantgarde in Porto, infuses the

houses, gothic churches and bustling cafés down

mansion with a contemporary edge.

towards the banks of the Douro, Portugal’s second city is

“One of the key questions was how to reconcile the

both a beacon for old-world charm and a portal through

building’s characteristics and its classic style with the

which to experience forward-thinking gastronomy.

comfort and convenience of contemporary décor,” says Ingrid

This sentiment certainly rings true at Palacete Campos

Koeck, one of the Founding Directors of Torel Boutiques.

Navarro, a 19th century mansion, which has been sensitively

“The common spaces were designed to respect the history

transformed by Torel Boutiques – a collection of guest houses

and antiquity of the palace, creating a modern space. In this

and hotels based in Portugal. Representing the group’s

sense, the architectural structure was maintained and the

third property in the city, Torel Palace Porto is inspired by

intervention being more at the level of furniture, colours

literature, with each of its 24 rooms and suites named after

and lighting, with the intention of enhancing the beauty

a Portuguese writer or poet – among them Eça de Queiroz,

and restoring its splendour, as can be seen in the lobby, the

Florbela Espanca and Fernando Pessoa. However, it is within

staircase or the skylight, which is undoubtedly the hotel’s

the property’s signature restaurant – a blindfolded culinary

ex-libris,” adds Koeck.

journey conceived by Michelin-star chef Vitor Matos – that is appealing to gastronomes.

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On the ground floor and situated at the back of the property, the outdoor terrace, featuring an emerald-green

The newly envisaged property pays homage to the elegance

swimming pool and vertical plant wall, continues the

of the original structure – a striking example of the romantic

project’s overarching design concept, whilst ensuring the

architecture period in Porto – and has been reimagined

space seamlessly transitions from day to night. Blending

with a number of modern touches. The restoration work,

minimalist furniture and black and white fabrics with

overseen by NN Arquitectura, preserves the architectural

romantic pink features and vintage-style chandeliers

and decorative elements whilst giving the building a new

interwoven into a canopy of plants and flowers suspended

lease of life, and interior design, which was handed to Isabel

from a timber pergola, the space serves as a prelude to the

Sá Nogueira, who has previously worked on some of the

inventive dining experience awaiting guests on the other

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The blindfolded tasting concept makes for an unforgettable culinary adventure, testing guests’ senses with theatrical moments

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side of the terrace doors. Inside, at the Blind bar

testing guests’ senses with theatrical moments.

and restaurant, subtle lighting fixtures and dark

“The origin and essence of Blind is creating a

materials add a layer of sophistication, setting

concept of a dark dinner. Guests do not know

the tone for the culinary experience ahead.

what they are going to eat and they place their

The restaurant’s name refers to one of

trust in our hands in order to have the Blind

writer José Saramago’s most famous novels –

experience,” explains Matos. The culinary

Blindness – which is honoured and built upon

proposition is deeply rooted in the chef’s

through a journey of the five senses. “Blindness

memories and Portuguese ingredients with a

was adapted for the cinema and we took the

strong international connection. Taking place

story as an inspiration to create the narrative

in the dark, the tasting menu encompasses 50

of the restaurant: everything is kept in the

dishes that are rotated seasonally. “The concept

dark, reminiscent of the Blindness, but also to

implies a deep respect for the products and their

trigger some food for thought about where we

respective origins; for biodiversity, seasonality,

have blind spots today,” explains Koeck. A focal

regionalism, respect for the environment and the

point of the restaurant space is its elegant bar

cycle of life,” says Matos. “I promote a cuisine

in an onyx back and gold, which is offset by a

of Mediterranean influence, with international

black and white checkerboard floor. The venue

notes from my experience, using the best

also houses a wine cellar and a separate room

products fresh from the producer, which allows

for private dining, as well as the aforementioned

us to transform them without changing them,

outdoor terrace for al fresco occasions.

thus maintaining and enhancing the taste.”

Within the restaurant, the blindfolded tasting

On the Blind tasting menu, dishes such as

concept devised by Vitor Matos and his team,

‘My Childhood’, ‘Blindfolded’ and ‘Bonjour

makes for an unforgettable culinary adventure,

Paris!’ add to the sensory experience, while on

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the Gastrobar menu, diners can choose from

heading out on the terrace to soak up last of

a selection of comforting snacks and sharing

the summer sun. “I like everything about this

options such as crab meat pâté, alongside mains

project. It was intense work of almost a year

of slow-cooked Portuguese-style codfish and

before the opening trying to be innovative but

wild seabass with samphire greens, curry foam

also faithful to the concept and my cuisine, as

and mango chutney served on tableware by

well as the creation of a relaxed and informal

brands such as Vista Alegre and Pordamsa.

place where everyone can enjoy a unique place

Vegetarian options include beetroot and lemon

in Porto,” notes Matos. “It is undoubtedly a

thyme risotto and laganelle pasta, while desserts

space that has quality ingredients and taste in

range from orange crêpe with Grand Marnier

full harmony with the music and atmosphere

Liqueur to caramelised banana. “The essence

– a perfect symbiosis of a venue that breathes

of my cuisine is based on the balance between

and lives.”

the product and technique, between colours

A distinctive concept making itself known

and aromas, in the search for a gastronomic

in the city’s growing gastronomic space, once

experience that lasts in memory, where each

international travel resumes, the restaurant

dish has a unique and genuine taste, full of

will revive its full Blind tasting menu with

passion and emotion,” says Matos.

gusto, whilst the chef and his team continue to

At the bar, guests can sample one of Blind’s

develop and tweak the overall dining concept.

signature cocktails served in glassware from the

With plenty of room to grow and refine this

likes of Chef & Sommelier and named after the

unique gastronomic experience, it is likely that

five senses. As well as creative libations, diners

many future travellers and discerning diners

can sample from the bar’s carefully curated

will deem Torel Palace a worthy port of call.

list of specialist cigars and cigarillos before

IN A BITE Owner: Torel Boutiques, Marec Group Operator: Torel Boutiques Architecture: NN Arquitectura Interior Design: Isabel Sá Nogueira Head Chef: Vitor Matos Sous Chef: Rita Magro Head Bartender: Diogo Pinto Head Sommelier: André Condeço F&B Manager: Débora Lemos Serveware: Vista Alegre, Pordamsa Glassware: Chef & Sommelier www.torelboutiques.com

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Cura Four Seasons Hotel Ritz LISBON Portuguese chef Pedro Pena Bastos and designer Miguel Câncio Martins create an art-inspired dining experience befitting of its location. Words: Mary Lussiana • Photography: Courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts

o hotel is more tightly woven into Lisbon’s modern

homemade mayonnaise, and at O Japonês, the lobster and

identity than Hotel Ritz. Inaugurated in 1959, it was

spinach salad with yuzu and truffle vinaigrette and the melt-

seven years in the making, following the vision of

in-your-mouth sashimi pull in the crowds from Tuesday to

Portugal’s dictator António de Oliveira Salazar to create a

Friday. However an intimate, fine-dining experience where

hotel for the burgeoning tourist market that the capital,

magic is conjured up and delivered on bespoke plates, and

and country, could be proud of. The brief was not merely to

bread is never just bread, nor butter ever just butter, was

prove that Portugal could do luxury – the modernist building

missing until the arrival of Cura in late 2020.

boasts more than 40,000m2 of rare marble, overlaid with

The starting point was the chef. Pedro Pena Bastos hails

an Art Deco-meets-Louis XV1 décor – but also to showcase

from Porto but cut his teeth at the acclaimed Esporão winery

the country’s rich artistic tradition. Step inside and you

in the Alentejo. He also did a season at London’s The Ledbury

are greeted by works from renowned artists like Almada

before arriving in Lisbon to take charge of Ceia, a supper club

Negreiros, Pedro Leitão, Estrela Faria and Querubim Lapa.

at Santa Clara 1728, a tiny gem of a hotel with just six rooms

Whilst the hotel has been managed by Four Seasons Hotels &

and 14 seats around a hand-carved table. Given a free hand,

Resorts since 1997 and undergone two complete renovations

Pena Bastos set about forging his culinary identity serving

since it opened, it continues with the son of the founder’s

seasonal, balanced dishes whose ingredients are rooted in

principal director at the helm, to embody the mission with

Portuguese culture and tradition. Whether it was his native

which it was launched: ‘to dignify the city and above all,

oysters with asparagus, finger lime and a vivid swirl of

honour the nation’.

Indian cress that got him noticed or something else, across

Searching for a way to enshrine that ethos on a plate has long been an occupation for the hotel. Its culinary offerings

064

town at Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon, they took notice. And so Cura was born.

have always been excellent; it is the go-to place for Sunday

The gestation period was intense; against a backdrop

brunches in the large Varanda restaurant, which spills out

of Covid-19, Pena Bastos worked alongside Portuguese

onto a terrace overlooking Lisbon’s leafy Eduardo VII park,

architect Miguel Câncio Martins (of Buddha Bar Paris fame)

and offers an abundance of bitesize delicacies, from octopus

and restaurant manager Mário Marques to create a setting as

confit from the Algarve to a crispy cube of suckling pig with

intriguing as one of the hotel’s artworks. As Câncio Martins

caramelised onion. The elegantly timeless Ritz Bar does the

explains: “Cura was designed as an extension of the hotel’s

leanest, meanest steak tartare in town, into which is folded

art collection, a mirror of Portuguese culture through the

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decades with a strong nod to the 1950s.” He continues:

the stage and is followed by a tribute to the Azores

“The Ritz is a living museum of sculptures, paintings

with a dish of aged amberjack, seaweed and fermented

and tapestries where diverse styles – from Art Deco to

pepper. The breads include sourdough, salty brioche

Louis XVI modern art – coexist. We sought to enhance

and regional cornbread, accompanied by a zingy, green

the artistic form of the elements that compose the

olive oil from the chef’s Tomar family farm and butter

space to develop a restaurant that was part gallery,

from the Azores, which has been aged to mimic the

part eatery, yet entirely of The Ritz.”

taste of Pena Bastos’ grandmother’s handmade butter

Working on the basis that every component should

that he remembers from Sunday visits long ago.

be treated as a piece of art; the space gradually came

Signature dishes include a texturally layered marvel

together. Madeira wood panelling and bevelled

of squid with hazelnut, bergamot, roasted seaweed

mirrors clad the walls, while Bahia blue granite tops

butter and Oscietra caviar as well as a pleasingly earthy

the bar and tables, which sit on the swirling spirals of

dish of figs with beetroot, lime and reindeer moss. A

a Picasso-inspired carpet. Glints of brass, teal sofas,

vegetarian tasting menu is offered, while a homemade

bespoke tableware and light from the open-plan

juice pairing is also available as an alternative to the

kitchen complete the room, which currently houses

extensive wine pairing.

just 28 seats.

“Cura’s wine list aims to promote Portugal’s

From the table nearest to the kitchen, Pena Bastos’

different terroirs, going hand-in-hand with the current

mantra of ‘less tweezers, more hands on the plates’ is

sustainability trend,” explains Sommelier Gabriel

clearly visible as he rolls out a succession of exquisite

Marques. “But above all, my wine list at Cura hopes

tastes which sing of Portugal, presented on serveware

to create an emotional connection between guests and

by LSA. An opener of grilled lettuce hearts with

clients with smaller, family-owned projects, which go

sunflower seeds and pollen pays homage to Lisbon –

hand-in-hand with the Chef’s gastronomic menu”.

whose residents are nicknamed lettuce eaters – sets

As for dignifying the city? That is a resounding tick.

IN A BITE Operator: Four Seasons Architecture and Interior Design: Miguel Câncio Martins Head Chef: Pedro Pena Bastos F&B Manager: Mário Marques Head Sommelier: Gabriela Marques Serveware: LSA www.fourseasons.com

067

Healthy Foundations From plant-based plates to inflammatory-reducing diets, biodynamic wines to nutrient-dense dishes, new wellness resorts are pushing the boundaries of clean cuisine. Words: Neena Dhillon

ook back through the ages to the centuries-old

with nutrition a core component. “Encouragement to eat

healing systems of Ayurveda and traditional

consciously is addressed initially in the arrival consultation

Chinese medicine or to ancient Greek and Roman

with our nutritional advisors providing guidance about our

wisdom, and a common theme emerges when

menus to help bring about the results the guest is looking

it comes to what we put in our bodies: diet is

for,” explains CEO Laurie Mias. “We also have DNA testing

inextricably linked to long-term health. It’s an

available so our recommendations can be more finely

area in which more of us are investing today, and one likely

attuned to the physical wellness and emotional balance of

to gain more traction as part of an accelerating interest in

the individual, with suggestions on which foods to choose

wellness post-pandemic. According to the Global Wellness

and which to avoid.”

Institute, the healthy eating and nutrition sector now

While the Nusa Dua resort is not meat-free, there is

accounts for a US$702 billion share of the US$4.5 trillion

emphasis on plant-based dishes with the overall menu

wellness economy. With conscious eating recognised as a

conceptualised by internationally renowned consultant

central tenet of health and wellness, including for its role in

Aliwalu Caparrós, alumnus of the Institute for Integrative

disease prevention, the hospitality industry is standing up

Nutrition and a raw food specialist. For Revivo, she focuses

and taking notice.

on high-protein, gluten- and additive-free gourmet dishes

Dedicated wellness retreats have long incorporated

with a Balinese twist, using organic, sustainably farmed local

nutritional expertise into their culinary offerings but the

ingredients. Additionally, many herbs and vegetables are

focus on cuisine is becoming sharper, more educational

grown in the property’s own hydroponic garden. Vitamins,

and scientific in approach. While any resort catering to

minerals, enzymes and antioxidants are balanced, with

today’s travellers is expected to accommodate food allergies,

inconsiderate manipulation of ingredients avoided. Grains

preferences and calorie counts, those with a specific

such as amaranth, buckwheat and quinoa are accompanied

wellness ethos are evolving to embrace foods that combat

by fresh vegetables and seeds, alkaline broths are a staple,

inflammation, improve immunity, slow decline in cognitive

and meat is either grilled or roasted slowly. Homemade

function, align closely to the needs of the body in terms of

flaxseed crackers pair with nut cheeses while the sweet tooth

individual gut health, and which contribute to sustainability.

isn’t ignored but satisfied with raw desserts and sorbets.

Serving award-winning cuisine at Nutrio Restaurant & Bar

“We have programmes that focus specifically on detox,

from its flagship Bali destination, Revivo Wellness Resorts

vegan and keto diets so with our vegan yoga retreat, for

specialises in retreats tailored to individual guest needs,

instance, we aim to improve the health of guests with high-

DINING

The cuisine at Revivo Wellness Resorts focuses on high-protein, gluten- and additive-free dishes made using organic, sustainably farmed local ingredients

nutrient food that reduces blood pressure, excess weight and blood sugar levels while protecting against certain cancers and heart disease,” says Mias. “The menu is designed to show how a vegan diet can still nourish and energise without any animal products.” Much of this ethos will be carried forward into Revivo’s first European destination, due to open in July at Château de Fiac near Toulouse. While food will be organic, process-light and homemade in the main, the French countryside resort will set itself apart with a Phyto Bar. “Plants have traditionally been used for physical and psychological wellbeing as a result of their healing, rejuvenating and therapeutic properties,” notes Mias. “So we’ll be infusing

“We aim to improve the health of guests with high-nutrient food that reduces blood pressure, excess weight and blood sugar levels while protecting against certain cancers and heart disease.” LAURIE MIAS, REVIVO WELLNESS RESORTS

the Middle East when Chiva-Som expands from its Thai roots to open and operate Qatar’s highly anticipated Zulal Wellness Resort. “Nutrition will be woven into overall wellness on multiple fronts,” confirms Chef Oscar Fernandez, a hospitality veteran of 30-years-plus who is leading the nutritional charge. “We’ll serve a range of raw food dishes, dehydrated foods and nutrient-dense plates but with a heavy influence of local flavours and textures, using cooking methods that allow us to retain as many minerals and vitamins as possible.” In step with Zulal’s status as the world’s first centre for Traditional Arabic Islamic Medicine, there is an opportunity to showcase the health benefits of herbs, seasonings and spices such as za’atar,

our own herbal teas as well as essential oils and

cinnamon and turmeric. Signature no-bake

herbal extracts for treatments.”

dishes swerve sugar, finding sweetness in local

While vegetarian food plays a plum role in

dates and apricots instead.

Thailand’s newest integrative wellness retreat,

Chiva-Som’s expertise in wellness cuisine is

RAKxa, the approach here is guided by a strong

renowned in the industry so all members of the

anti-inflammatory philosophy, as Executive

culinary team at Zulal attend the onsite Health

Chef Kien Wagner describes: “All our cuisine has

& Wellness Academy to understand the effects

been developed with a deep understanding of

of ingredients on the body and the processes

gut and body imbalances caused by the average

that optimise nutrients in terms of preparation.

modern diet. Each of our menu choices helps

vinegar. So too are bone broth and collagen

Guests are offered personalised dietary plans

the body eliminate toxins and restores balance

protein, which feature in many dishes, plus

following consultations and key information is

while honouring the traditions of our Southeast

RAKxa’s own pumpkin seed miso paste as a base

shared on menus, as Fernandez explains: “All

Asian ancestors. The regional gastronomy is

for soups, and freshly baked bread containing

our dishes are processed through nutritional

designed to feed your digestive flame.” Once

Inulin, a type of prebiotic fibre. Chef explains

software, enabling us to list key components

guests have their first consultations with health

that an organic farm is being developed onsite

such as calories, fat, carbohydrate and protein.”

advisors and an onsite nutritionist, Wagner’s

for homegrown produce while other ingredients

team kicks into action with dishes customised

are sourced from local Thai communities.

Zulal will feature six dining outlets and a demo kitchen set up for learning experiences,

around the individual challenges facing guests.

“We want our dishes to open up a new world

as the resort aims to facilitate lasting lifestyle

Having grown up vegetarian and with a

of flavour and uplift the spirit,” says Wagner.

changes, including easy techniques around

health-conscious mother, the German chef

“But they also have to be health-giving like

cuisine for guests to take home. Health

has researched the nutritional benefits of food

our courgette lasagne, made with heirloom

imbalances will be addressed by looking not only

during the course of his 14-year career in luxury

tomatoes in a spicy marinara complemented

at quantities and types of food but the timing

hospitality. “At a retreat such as RAKxa, where

by basil mint pesto and macadamia ricotta

of meals too. “After every meal here, we want

detox symptoms experienced by guests can at

cheese. Our beetroot carpaccio is marinated

guests to feel energised,” says the chef. “This

times be uncomfortable, it is important for our

with orange and paired with wild longan honey-

could be through dishes that incorporate maca

chefs to have specialist knowledge,” he notes.

dressed arugula, roasted walnuts and probiotic

or baobab powder for example, or raw chocolate

His team delivers wholesome dishes that are, at

horseradish cream cheese, while our roasted

packed full of magnesium. Since all dishes are

the least, organic and seasonal, if not focused on

cauliflower is enlivened with turmeric curry

made from scratch in-house, we can cater to

specific concerns. Fermented foods are prized

coconut crème.”

food intolerances and address gut healing on an

here including homemade kimchi, sauerkraut,

A regional focus is perfectly at ease with

individual basis.” Naturally, vegan dishes will

kombucha, coconut yoghurt and apple cider

wellness cuisine, as will be showcased soon in

feature heavily at Zulal; sample plates include

071

DINING

“Each of our menu choices helps the body eliminate toxins and restores balance while honouring the traditions of our Southeast Asian ancestors.” KIEN WAGNER, RAKXA

At RAKxa, Thailand’s newest integrative wellness retreat, the approach is guided by a strong anti-inflammatory philosophy

072

raw fennel bulb accompanied by a puree and

who are seeking evidence-based nutritional

garnish of microgreens, lotus seed and beetroot

recommendations. Equally, Ayurvedic principles

powder; an antioxidant-rich tomato ice cream;

will come into play through plates tailored

and beetroot in multiple textures garnished

to suit the individual dosha (the energetic

with red chard and pea microgreens.

make-up) of a guest. Personalisation of the

Global wellness hospitality receives another

culinary journey is, again, key. “My idea is

boost as Amrit Ocean Resort & Residences

to take healthy food and give it a cheffy spin

opens its doors on Singer Island in Florida this

so guests still have organic, seasonal and

August with five F&B outlets. Each will have

fresh dishes that are unique,” Vaiciunas says.

its own take on wellness but an overriding

“Our wine menu is compelling, broken down

consideration will be the ratio of vegetables

by health categories including biodynamic,

over animal protein – for Amrit, the balance

vegan, organic and sustainable. We’ll further

struck is 70/30. Executive Chef Justin Vaiciunas,

promote the idea of nutrition through tools such

a native of Detroit, is passionate about clean

as a spice rack that is presented with dishes,

cuisine: “Coming from the Midwest, I was

allowing guests to select which they add for a

raised on the meat-and-potato diet, but having

particular health benefit.” Already attracting

moved around the county and become educated

a buzz is Ayre, one of the resort’s restaurants

on food and nutrition, I started to implement

for which celebrity chef Matthew Kenney has

this learning into the menus I created. I want a

conceptualised and overseen menus. With its

clean feeling after eating rather than a sluggish

intriguing combination of vegan cuisine and

or tired sense.”

Ayurvedic inspiration, the venue promises a

The resort will be offering Viome’s gut microbiome testing for wellness-focused guests

new era of plant-based dining for Palm Beach residents and visitors.

SIGNATURE

Coffee, Whiskey and Lemon Choux Latymer Pennyhill Park Hotel & Spa SURREY

In his first year at helm of Latymer –

explains Smith. “It’s rich, decadent and

Pennyhill Park Hotel & Spa’s fine dining

has an incredibly sensual mouthfeel; it is

restaurant – Head Chef Steve Smith has

best enjoyed with a shot of Blue Mountain

successfully steered the restaurant’s

Difference coffee.”

brigade through the ups and downs of

Referred to by the team as “Irish coffee

the pandemic, picking up a Michelin star

in a solid state”, the dessert is presented

along the way.

on a plate supplied by Odd Standard and

Arriving at Latymer last February,

comprises Paris-Brest choux, chocolate,

Smith quickly set about creating his six-

and coffee and whiskey mousse with

course Discovery tasting menu, complete

chocolate croquant pieces. Enhanced by

with snacks, hot beverages and petits

coffee-flavoured jelly, whiskey gel and

fours of handcrafted chocolates and a

a praline and cocoa nib crumble, the

caramelised Yuzu Tart.

delicacy is best eaten in one bite.

One of the highlights is the chef’s luxurious ode to Irish coffee. “The dish is inspired by a classic Irish coffee, with the addition of chocolate and a hit of lemon,”

MyGlassStudio

SIGNATURE

Red mullet, John Dory and Squid Terre Blanche PROVENCE

Making the most of seasonal produce from Pays

Presented on a soup plate by J.L. Coquet,

de Fayence – the Southwest region of France

the fish is seasoned with espelette spice and

that is home to five-star hotel and resort Terre

served with potatoes cooked in a saffron broth

Blanche – Executive Chef Christophe Schmitt

and topped with grilled courgette flowers. “It’s

looks to the Mediterranean and local produce

a delicate soup of rockfish, highlighting the

to inspire colourful and flavoursome dishes that

beautiful flavours of the sea – squid, John Dory,

celebrate the Provençal terroir.

red mullet and sea urchin, accompanied by an

“My cooking is readable, respectful of the

aioli-style sabayon,” concludes Schmitt. “It is

environment and delicious without distorting

the perfect harmony of tastes and flavours that

the product – it is only enhanced by the

come together in a dish that’s both classic and

precision of cuisine,” explains Schmitt. His

contemporary.”

creation – a modern take on a traditional French stew – sees fresh seafood and anise-flavoured sea urchin served with iodised sabayon sauce. “It was essential for me to keep the DNA of the bouillabaisse. I wanted to preserve each element of the dish, but give it a more personal, gastronomic and contemporary twist.”

Stem Zero

NUDE STEM ZERO PINK 236x275mm.indd 1

2.09.2020 10:54

Low and Behold The acceleration of health and wellness trends has reinforced the significance of low- and no-alcohol options, giving rise to a host of new products and pours. Words: Jenna Campbell

he arrival of a new year often

the low- and no-alcohol spirits category will

presents the opportunity for both

grow from US$100 million to US$500 million

reflection and resolve, spurring on

in Western Europe by 2024. Of course, the case

the most determined individuals

for moderation is not a new one, and has been

to adopt new fitness regimes,

gathering momentum for some years, capturing

healthy eating habits and vows

the attention of sober-curious and health-

of alcoholic abstinence. In 2021, the message

conscious consumers. In Nielsen CGA’s 2019

was much the same, but according to Alcohol

survey of business leaders in the hospitality

Change UK, the uptake on campaigns such as

industry, low-and no-alcohol topped the list

Dry January was far higher than usual, with

as the most influential category, while a poll

as many as 6.5 million British adults taking

by Franklin & Sons found that from the outset

part – up from 3.9 million last year. Far from

of 2020, people were becoming more conscious

a flash-in-the-pan, interest in abstention

of what they were drinking, citing reasons such

and pursuit of mindful moderation – together

as wanting to get fit and saving money as cause

with the growing awareness of the health

for cutting back.

risks associated with coronavirus – has been supercharged.

With the taste for low- and no-alcohol already established, the pandemic has served

According to Bacardi’s 2021 Cocktail Trends

as a catalyst for the movement and in turn the

Report, 22% of consumers are drinking less

variety and quality of drinks within the category

and 55% of mindful drinkers are consuming

has continued to improve, giving way to greater

low-ABV beverages. Earmarked as an industry

experimentation. “For a long time we have

for exponential growth, Bacardi forecasts that

seen the decline of alcohol consumption for

SIPPING

The Churchill Bar & Terrace serves a variety of non-alcoholic cocktails 000 such as the Allspice Sour

SIPPING

The Berkely’s Blue Bar has devised the Meta Menu encompassing cocktails such as the Queen of Sussex and Kyanite

working lunches as a more measured attitude to drinking has become the norm,” says Lydia Forte, Group Director of Food & Beverage for Rocco Forte Hotels. “What I see is that when people do choose to drink, it is about quality over quantity. However, the biggest change is on the supply side, where we have seen a large number of high-quality non-alcoholic products come onto the market.” With more than 200 non-alcoholic spirit labels now in circulation, companies such as Seedlip, who are often credited with kickstarting the ‘NoLo’ movement back in 2014, the opportunities for partnerships between hotel bars and brands are ripe. “Hotel bars can really cater for an all-round memorable experience and showcase just how creative non-alcoholic cocktails can be,” says Ben Branson, founder of Seedlip. “Since we launched five years ago, the hotel and restaurant industry has been really supportive. We’ve worked with some

“I feel it is our responsibility to offer a special experience to all guests regardless of whether they drink alcohol or not. Since offering a 12-course alcohol-free pairing our revenue has increased and we no longer have guests just drinking an orange juice all night.” AMANDA WASSMER-BULGIN

flavour. “I believe we are all becoming much more mindful of what we drink and how much alcohol we consume – shrubs offer myriad potential non-alcohol serves to help get through a period of abstention,” says Chevallier Guild. “Not only do they offer the ritual of preparing a drink, but they also deliver the flavour and drinkability to match.” As Wine Director at Grand Resort Bad Ragaz in Switzerland, Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin uses her expertise to source local ingredients that can be used to create a series of non-alcoholic wine pairings for Memories, the hotel’s twoMichelin-starred restaurant. “I feel it is our responsibility to offer a special experience to all guests regardless of whether they drink alcohol or not. Since offering a 12-course alcohol-free pairing our revenue has increased and we no longer have guests just drinking an orange juice all night,” she explains. Using her knowledge and expertise, Wassmer-Bulgin

amazing hotels, from terrace takeovers in

uses ingredients such as fermented berries to

London, sustainable cocktails with The Pig and

create non-alcoholic version of popular wines

partnerships with Soho House Group; we even

likes pinot noir. “Following the same process

turned discarded lemons into coasters with

as I do the wine pairing, I take the dish apart

Lyaness Bar and Green Lab.”

molecule by molecule and see what compounds

Demonstrating the potential of the category,

“When it comes to creation process behind

I have and try to match them either through

products like L.A Brewery’s Sparkling English

low-ABV cocktails, the difference lies in the

a grape or through other ingredients. Then I

Rose kombucha and Saicho’s sparkling cold

extra care applied in the process,” says David

look at texture and body and try to recreate the

brewed teas, now offer consumers sophisticated,

O. Hajjar, Assistant Food & Beverage Manager at

effect winemaking has on the wine in our non-

low-sugar alternatives to wine and champagne.

The Peninsula, Hong Kong. “With this approach,

alcoholic drinks.”

“Health and lifestyle are certainly important

we are able to further elevate our hospitality

Also taking its cue from the local surroundings,

factors, but to a large extent alcohol-free drinks

experience and establish a strong emotional

luxury safari and ecotourism operator

are also becoming more popular because they are

connection with our guests. Consumers would

Wilderness Safaris – who own and operate

getting better,” explains, Charlie Winkworth-

like to learn more about the products story and

lodges and camps across Africa – has developed

Smith, founder of Saicho. “No longer do

production. As a result, mixologists are given

a selection of non-alcoholic cocktails in keeping

consumers just have the choice of a sugary soft

greater flexibility and motivation to create

with its ethos. “Our signature cocktails are still

drink; there are now delicious, complex options

offerings that are different.”

as popular as always, however, for those wishing

Elsewhere, Nonsuch, who have created a

for something a little healthier or alcohol-free,

Served in a number of luxury hotels, including

range of fruit-and vinegar-based syrups and

we have all sorts of fresh juices, with our Spicy

The Peninsula and The Ritz-Carlton in Hong

sodas, are creating new drinking experiences

Tree Tomato mocktail always a firm favourite,”

Kong, Saicho caters to a variety of occasions,

by championing lesser-known ingredients.

says Aimable Rukundo Ramadhan, barman at

whilst also creating a point of difference for

Founded by Henry Chevallier Guild, an eighth-

Bisate Lodge in Rwanda. “We also have our

properties that have several F&B venues.

generation cyder and vinegar maker as Aspall

refreshing Gorilla Passion mocktail, which is

Moreover, the adoption of these beverages

Cyder, the complex shrubs, otherwise known

offered to guests when they return from the

within the hotel context represents a wider shift

as drinking vinegars, enhance both alcoholic

gorilla trek, as well as a delicious Ginger Iced

towards more wellness-driven drink concepts.

and non-alcoholic serves by adding depth and

Tea, served to guests in wooden jugs that are

that just happen to be alcohol-free.”

081

SIPPING

“We recognise that bars are destinations for non-drinkers just as much as those who drink so we want to ensure that our nonalcoholic drinks pack just as much of a punch.” RAFFAELE DI MONACO, THE BERKELEY

Bisate Lodge in Rwanda has developed a selection of non-alcoholic drinks including Ginger Iced Tea and Tree Tomato mocktail

inspired by the traditional wooden milk pots

London The Churchill, the market potential of

that are used in Rwanda to store fresh milk.”

the category creates even greater opportunity for

For those looking to moderate rather than

refining the hotel’s drink programme. “I believe

abstain, over at The Berkeley, Bar Manager

the secret to a good mocktail section relies on

Raffaele di Monaco has devised the Blue Bar’s

putting the same effort into the creation of it

Meta Menu, which spans both low-and-no

than with signature cocktails,” says Bernardes.

serves. Each chapter includes a non-alcoholic

Non-alcoholic cocktails available here range

cocktail and a breakdown of the ingredients,

from Allspice Sour – made using Seedlip Spice

tasting notes and the ABV percentage. “We

94, raspberries, lemon juice, grape syrup and

recognise that bars are destinations for non-

egg white – to Blueberry and Rosehip Sling, a

drinkers just as much as those who drink so

fruit-filled ensemble of berries, passion fruit,

we want to ensure that our non-alcoholic

rosehip cordial and lemon and apple juice.

drinks pack just as much of a punch,” says

The low- and no-alcohol movement has

di Monaco. “The Meta Menu has been a great

garnered greater interest over the past year than

vehicle for experimentation and showcases

at perhaps any other time, driven by consumers’

that these drinks can still be both complex

reassessment of their lifestyle choices as

and experiential.” At Blue Bar, drinks such as

a consequence of Covid-19. And while the

The Mountie are created using Seedlip’s Æcorn

industry might be challenged by the reopening

Aromatic blend, Everleaf Aperitif, maple syrup,

of bars and restaurants, the diversification of

coconut water and tonka spices, alongside

the category is a surely a sign of things to come,

cocktails with both high- and low-ABV content.

if not an opportunity to further invest in the

For Nelson Bernardes, Bar Manager at The

sector in time for when patrons are welcomed

Churchill Bar & Terrace at Hyatt Regency

back through the doors.

082

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CRASTER.COM

COCKTAIL

Hot Mess Lollo W Melbourne MELBOURNE

Opening its doors in Australia’s cultural capital, W Melbourne’s bold debut is reinforced by its distinctive line-up of restaurants and bars – adding to the city’s impressive dining and drinking landscape. Helmed by chef Adam D’Sylva, allday restaurant Lollo celebrates the chef’s Italian and Indian roots with imaginative dishes, while creative cocktails devised by Garth Welsh, W Melbourne’s Director of Beverage & Food, are designed to lift spirits using flavourful ingredients and high-impact visuals. “We try to be playful and fun, but it all starts with a solid foundation of carefully selected ingredients, put together with care,” explains Welsh. “We are looking for bold but balanced drinks with locally made products playing a starring role.” Capturing attention with its rosemary scented smoke bubble, Hot Mess is testament to the team’s thoughtful curation process and willingness to experiment. “This particular drink blends the caramel and sweet and spicy notes of Buffalo Trace with Amaro Montenegro, which adds balance with its bitter elements, while the pineapple provides tropical fruitiness, and the Champagne adds a touch of dryness to lighten it all up,” says Welsh. Showcasing exotic and complex flavours, the bubble adds a final flourish, with the concoction served in a Riedel cocktail glass. Welsh concludes: “The glassware is luxurious and elegant, but the bubble, the name and the drink itself is playful and rebellious, just like W Melbourne.”

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COCKTAIL

Suzie Wong Zoku The Hari HONG KONG

Making its debut in Hong Kong, Zoku – a restaurant

flavoured gin inspired by the cherry blossoms that

and terrace bar at The Hari – dispenses with tradition

come into bloom each spring.

to serve up a refreshing take on Japanese cuisine.

Awakening all of the senses, Suzie Wong is inspired

Under the guidance of Chef de Cuisine Phillip Pak, the

by the heroine of Richard Mason’s 1957 novel The

restaurant uses seasonal produce to reimagine classics

World of Suzie Wong. Set in a fictional hotel in Hong

for the modern palate, with highlights ranging from

Kong’s Wan Chai district, the book tells the story

sushi and tempura to kushiyaki, served in a vibrant

of a Chinese prostitute who falls in love with an

setting designed by Tara Bernerd.

aspiring English artist. At Zoku, the romantic drama

To pair with the food, Bar Manager Sabrina Cantini

is translated as a cheeky concoction of whisky, rose

Budden has created a selection of imaginative, multi-

syrup, cucumber and yuzu soda, finished with a spritz

sensory cocktails that draw inspiration from Japanese

of rose water that is sprayed tableside from a vintage

flavours and culture. There’s Wabi-Sabi, a plum-

atomiser. The cocktail list is accompanied by a wide

infused vodka mix inspired by the traditional Japanese

variety of sakes, shochus, Japanese whiskies and fine

aesthetic of imperfection, and Hanafubuki, an orange-

wines that will carry the party into the night.

MEA 2022 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 05/03/2021 10:05 Page 1

7–9 March 2022 Fairmont, Ajman UAE

TO THE TABLE MEA is the most effective one‐to‐one meetings event for leading hospitality and restaurant suppliers to benefit from pre‐selected appointments and top‐level networking with senior decision makers in F&B, culinary and procurement from the region’s most prestigious hotel and restaurant groups. Join us in March 2022 at the Fairmont Ajman to stay at the forefront of this dynamic industry and be part of the region’s top projects.

Stay up to date on all TO THE TABLE events across Europe, Asia and MEA:

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STAR

EDDY

F OLLOW US

W W W . Z I E H E R . C O M

DRINKS

Midleton Very Rare Midleton Very Rare Vintage 2021 The latest edition to the vintage series has been crafted by new Master Distiller Kevin O’Gorman and is a blend of rare and hand-selected single pot still and single grain Irish whiskeys. In order to maintain a luxurious, balanced aroma and taste profile, O’Gorman selected a mix of first and second still casks to enhance the wood contribution, while allowing the pot still component to express itself. Showcasing a floral character, the higher selection of grain whiskeys extends to the spectrum of flavours and aromas, which includes baked orchard fruits, lime zest and kiwi, rounded off with mild pot still spices and waves of vanilla. The texture gains additional wood spices with a delicate touch of clove oil and nutmeg adding a mild heat, giving balance to the sweetness, while the lingering finish with the pot still spices and soft fruits eventually fades, allowing the oak to have the final say. www.midletonveryrare.com

DRINKS

Bottega The 100 Prosecco Recipes Leading Prosecco producer Sandro Bottega has released ‘The 100 Prosecco Recipes’, a collection of recipes, stories and curiosities. The 192-page book, published by Mondadori, takes readers on a journey through the Prosecco hills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Veneto Region of Italy, where tradition, research and authenticity come together in the name of taste. Bottega’s book is a celebration of the land’s food, wine, landscape and artistic heritage, and serves as a homage to the hard-working people who have created and preserved its culture. A family-run business, Sandro Bottega manages the Bottega winery and distillery alongside his brother and sister. Founded in 1977 by his father under the name Distilleria Bottega, the company is based in Bibano di Godega, 50km north of Venice, where it produces grappas, wines and liqueurs. Bottega’s range of wine includes Prosecco, namely the Bottega Gold, and other sparkling wines with great personality. Amarone, Ripasso, Brunello di Montalcino and other reds are produced in the two separate cellars in Valgatara (Valpolicella) and Montalcino. Marketed under the Alexander and Bottega brands, its grappas include fine selections of single-variety grapes and distillates matured in barriques. Bottega’s offering is completed by the Creams & Liquors line, which features a vast selection of fruit and cream liqueurs, including Limoncino, Gianduia, Fiordilatte and Pistachio. www.bottegaspa.com

090

DRINKS

092

1. Cognac Frapin Cognac Frapin Extra

2. Lillet Blanc, Rosé and Rouge

3. Champagne Gosset Celebris Rosé 2007

Cognac Frapin Extra is a blend exclusively harvested, distilled over lees and aged at the estate into the heart of Grande Champagne. The cuvée ages in dry cellars for several decades in order to gain its finesse and elegance. Offering a mahogany colour with warm copper highlights, Extra features aromas of concentrated candied fruit, in addition to aged port mixed with the scent of wooden cigar boxes, typical of old Grande Champagne cognacs. On the palate, the cognac is supple, smooth, rich and luxurious, with a long finish in which all the flavours combine in a subtle and complex harmony that pairs well with a variety of desserts. www.cognac-frapin.com

Crafted since 1872 at Maison Lillet in a small, picturesque village in the region of Bordeaux, Lillet still presents a unique character representative of its heritage. A dedicated team of fewer than ten people perpetuate the authentic production process, skilfully blending wines and a secret recipe of fruit infusions. The ingredients for Lillet’s recipe are chosen with great care: French wines are selected for their quality and organoleptic complexity, while the fruits, cinchona barks, and sweet and bitter orange peels display remarkable freshness and aromatic richness. Subtle and refreshing, Lillet is available in three unique varieties: Blanc, Rosé and Rouge. www.lillet.com

In 1532, French writer François Rabelais coined the term célèbre to define someone “who is widely praised”. The superlative of this fame – Celebrissime – inspired Champagne Gosset to name its most exceptional cuvée Celebris. First launched in 1988, Celebris fulfilled the vision of the House to create handcrafted Champagne. Celebris Rosé 2007 is one only three editions of this cuvée released over the past 30 years and showcases aromas of ripe red berries as well as the intense freshness of lily and violet flowers. It is fresh and broad on the palette, dominated by strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant, finishing on notes of grapefruit and lemon. www.champagne-gosset.com

THE ORIGINAL

EST 1985

Eternal Buffet Concepts in Design and Function www.frilich.com

Hotel Beverage Study 2020 In the last issue, Supper presented the findings of a Nielsen CGA research report examining the hotel guest and how the pandemic has impacted their dining and imbibing behaviour. In this second instalment, we take a closer look at the drinks brands and categories consumers are likely to opt for when visiting hotels over the next 12 months.

As the hospitality sector continues to grapple with the effects of the pandemic, opportunities for the alcohol industry are increasingly likely to be found in hotel’s contactless drinking environments including grab-and-go, mini-bars and room service – in line with consumer expectations around adherence to social distancing and health and safety measures. At the same time, traditional hotel earners such as restaurants, bars and conferencing will still play an important role. In light of Covid-19 and as many major hotel chains begin to adapt to the ‘new normal’, Nielsen CGA has conducted a survey with a nationally representative sample of 5,000 consumers, gleaning insight into

094

the impact of the pandemic on the hotel sector and its supply chain. Revealing when visitors are likely to begin travelling again, and what and where they are drinking within hotels, the report touches upon several key areas including shifting guest expectations with regards to hygiene protocols, the services being utilised, consumption behaviour and the brands and categories guests are choosing to drink. Armed with this information, the report empowers retailers, distributors, suppliers and hoteliers to make strategic, data-driven decisions as they navigate the post-pandemic landscape and expand into a reimagined hospitality space.

THE FUTURE OF HOTEL VISITS

HOTEL F&B OPTIONS

Data indicates that those visiting on business are more engaged with alcohol than leisure guests and are more likely to stay on site for drinking and dining. Factors related to the risk of Covid-19 were found to be more important for those on holiday, while convenience, such as contactless ordering are more important to those on business.

Hotel food and drink options will continue to compete with restaurants and bars found outside the property. Therefore, the drinking and dining strategy needs to ensure quality options capture consumers accordingly.

32%

OF BUSINESS GUESTS TEND TO VISIT THE HOTEL RESTAURANT / BAR RATHER THAN THOSE OUTSIDE THE HOTEL

21%

SAID THEY TEND TO VISIT THE HOTEL RESTAURANTS / BARS RATHER THAN VISIT THOSE OUTSIDE OF THE HOTEL

57%

OF LEISURE CONSUMERS RATED COVID-19 SECURE HYGIENE PRACTICES AS VERY IMPORTANT WHEN VISITING HOTELS

47%

SAID THEY TEND TO VISIT BOTH THE HOTEL RESTAURANTS / BARS AND RESTAURANTS / BARS OUTSIDE OF THE HOTEL

57%

FEEL COMFORTABLE VISITING A HOTEL IN THE NEXT 12 MONTHS FOR A CONFERENCE / CELEBRATION FUNCTION

25%

SAID THEY TEND TO VISIT THE RESTAURANTS / BARS OUTSIDE OF THE HOTEL

SAID THAT THEY DON’T VISIT RESTAURANTS / BARS WHEN STAYING OVERNIGHT AT A HOTEL

MARKET INSIGHT

FACTORS FOR COMFORT WHEN VISITING A HOTEL BAR OR RESTAURANT When hosting business / leisure functions, the survey asked participants what the most important factor for comfort was when using dining amenities: Outdoor seating areas

Fewer tables / patrons in venue to accommodate social distancing

Venue staff wearing mask / gloves

Additional hygiene programmes in venues

Temperature checks of all attendees before entry

Visors / face masks available for use while in the venue

Availability of paper / single-use menus

Contactless / cashless payment options

Availability of disposable / single-use glassware

51%

49%

41%

40%

35%

31%

30%

DRINK STRATEGY AND GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES Despite Nielsen CGA finding that drink assortments are being refined and reduced in traditional consumption zones, these drinking and dining amenities will remain important to the overall drink strategy for brands and hotel chains. Across these amenities, price and the availability of premium products remains important to consumers, while data drawn from the use of contactless services demonstrates the opportunity to increase alcoholic offerings in previously untapped hotel spaces.

Restaurants

Bar / Lounge

Room Service

As the most popular amenity in hotels, data shows that restaurants are a key area to engage consumers with alcoholic drinks. Led by beer, wine and cocktails, other less developed drinks categories represent significant opportunity for increased engagement. The early evening is the most important time and the report suggests that any drinks offering should factor in the food avaliable. Premium brands also rank highly when compared to other areas.

As is the case in restaurants, beer is the most important drink category, while wine is less important compared to spirit-based drinks. The top opportunity is for hard seltzers and given their wider appeal to on premise, the report suggests that these drinks should be first in mind for any menu updates. The late evening is more popular for this amenity and premium brands rank higher here than in other areas, at a similar rate to hotel restaurants.

When using room service, the top category is soft / energy drinks, however improving the beer and hard seltzer offering could bring the biggest increases in engagement with alcohol at this amenity area. The report highlights that early evening and late evening are equally important for this amenity area, while other dayparts such as brunch and the late night present an opportunity for additional catering.

3 in 5

CONSUMERS WOULD PURCHASE ALCOHOLIC DRINKS FROM HOTEL RESTAURANTS AT LEAST MOST OF THE TIME

49%

SAID PRICE WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR WHEN PURCHASING ALCOHOL IN HOTEL RESTAURANTS

46%

STATE HAPPY HOUR / SPECIAL OFFERS AND DISCOUNTS AS VERT IMPORTANT WHEN PURCHASING ALCOHOLIC DRINKS IN A HOTEL BAR / LOUNGE

49%

STATED PRICE AS BEING VERY IMPORTANT WHEN PURCHASING ALCOHOLIC DRINKS FROM THIS AMMENITY

52%

OF CONSUMERS WOULD BE LIKELY TO PAY EXTRA FOR A BETTER QUALITY DRINK IN HOTEL RESTAURANTS

58%

OF CONSUMERS WOULD BE LIKELY TO PAY EXTRA FOR A BETTER QUALITY DRINK IN A HOTEL BAR / LOUNGE

58%

OF CONSUMERS WOULD BE LIKELY TO PAY EXTRA FOR A BETTER QUALITY DRINK FROM ROOM SERVICE

ENGAGEMENT WITH ALCOHOLIC DRNKS IS HIGH WITHIN HOTEL BARS / LOUNGES WITH OVER 70% DRINKING THEM FREQUENTLY

OF CONSUMERS FREQUENTLY PURCHASE ALCOHOLIC DRINKS WHEN USING ROOM SERVICE

These pages feature extracts from Nielsen CGA’s Hotel Beverage Report, published in September 2020. To learn more about the Hotel Beverage Study 2020, email hello@nielsencga.com. Quote code HOTELS2020 for an exclusive discount on the full report. www.nielsencga.com

095

096

SPOTLIGHT

Dare to be Different A single sourcing option for the F&B industry, Renarte’s success has been defined by its first-hand experience and expertise in all aspects of hospitality. Words: Jenna Campbell

ith a deep understanding of the

the requirements and expectations of discerning

colleagues and dependable supply partners;

inner workings of the hospitality

hoteliers and restaurateurs looking to bring a

most importantly, we have the trust of our

industry, Ranjan Salis was able to

multitude of F&B concepts to life, Renarte also

clients, without which our goals would not have

identify gaps in the supply chain and set about

offers catering equipment, product solutions

been achievable.”

launching a one-stop resource for the F&B

for bar and stewarding and a wide range of

Channelling this expertise in hospitality

sector. Established in Dubai in 2006, Renarte

table linen. “As a complete OS&E supplier,

services affords Renarte opportunities to

Hospitality Supply works with hotels, catering

the brands we work with synergise seamlessly

offer both consultancy and support services

to establishments and standalone restaurant

with each other giving clients a total solution

to hoteliers and foodservice professionals

concepts to provide premium tableware through

for their needs,” explains Salis. “The criteria

looking to create new dining concepts or update

a streamlined procurement process.

for selecting a product to represent and work

existing amenities. This understanding allows

“Having led a hotel supplies business for

with is first of all dependability, we must ensure

the company to provide ideas and multiple

eight years, I knew the only way forward was

that the brand we pursue has a steady supply, is

options to cater to its partner’s needs, going far

for me to set up my own business using my first

innovative, price-conscious and as committed

beyond procurement and distribution. “Given

hand-experience,” reflects Salis. “In addition

as we are.”

the number of openings my team and I have

to this, I wanted to bring a fresh outlook to the

Underpinning Renarte’s partnerships with

worked on since our inception, it would be

term ‘distributor’ in terms of market approach

the brands it represents is a desire to support

near impossible for us to miss something that

and flexibility. Our company ethos is teamwork

clients of all sizes. “We do not give preference

could add value to a client’s decision-making,”

aligned towards total customer satisfaction

to one hotel group over another, however large

concludes Salis.

in the most ethical manner.” Since then, the

they may be. Our goal is customer satisfaction

Ensuring that it is always able to furnish

business has grown exponentially, achieving

and that should be the approach irrespective of

and equip any new opening within the HoReCa

global reach with offices in Qatar and Canada,

potential business size,” adds Salis.

sector with all the high-quality product lines

and forging a number of partnerships with

This approach is shared across Renarte’s

in its portfolio, Renarte’s leadership regularly

manufacturers in Europe, the Middle East and

three locations, which are each overseen by

travels around the globe looking for innovative

the United States.

knowledgeable teams made up of individuals who

products and solutions to offer to its clients, for

Working across three offices with more than

have been with the company since its inception.

both new and existing operations. Underpinning

40 brands – including Steelite, Serax and Revol

“Our culture has been to develop people into

its success is Renarte’s industry knowledge,

– Renarte supplies many of the world’s hotels

leadership roles from the bottom up; each head

quick response time and eagerness to gain the

and restaurants with stylish and innovative

of unit has had a career working as a hotelier

trust of its partners. Above all else, its mission

hospitality solutions. Its exhaustive product

or a hospitality professional at some stage so

to uphold the reputation of its clients and

portfolio covers all bases, spanning categories

they know exactly what clients are looking for

exceed expectations, is what sets it apart.

such as porcelain, glassware, flatware and

when it comes to table and serveware,” Salis

www.saliscorp.com

buffetware. Fulfilling and complementing all

explains. “I have been fortunate to have loyal

097

Java Script Could investment in tech-driven solutions both back- and front-of-house help hotels serve the next generation of coffee connoisseurs? Words: Jenna Campbell

n integral part of society,

report. “World Coffee Portal forecasts it will take

drinking coffee has become

at least three years before the segment returns

part-and-parcel of the daily

to pre-pandemic levels,” comments Jeffrey

grind, with an estimated 95

Young, founder of Allegra Group. “Recovery will

million cups consumed in the

require significant innovation, discipline and

UK every day – a reality that is

leadership, with successful operators adapting

not lost on hoteliers who ensure high-quality

to ongoing trading challenges with technology-

caffeinated drinks are readily available across

led solutions and new store formats.”

their properties throughout the day. And with

With a new generation of coffee drinkers now

consumers developing a more discerning palate

also turning to the beverage for its potential

for specialist brews and blends, investing in

health benefits – think cold-brewed beverages

everything from cold-brew kits and moka

infused with nitrogen and the addition of

pots to state-of-the-art espresso machines,

plant-based milks – in 2021, getting a caffeine

operators are seeking out ever more innovative

fix is as much about the experience as the

solutions to lure coffee-drinkers out of home.

taste and quality. Similarly, as the demand for

Informing part of the so-called Third

contactless options grows, the industry and its

Wave Coffee movement – the drive towards

partners must be ready to adapt and innovate.

appreciating coffee as an artisanal foodstuff

For hotels, emerging with premium products

rather than a commodity – the pandemic

and experience-led drinking occasions will also

has done little to deter the trend towards

be important.

premiumisation, though it has altered the way

Recognising the need to cater to these tastes,

in which consumers purchase and drink coffee.

lifestyle-focused brands such as Locke have

Like many within the foodservice industry,

partnered with independent brands such as

the segment stands at a crossroads. Ongoing

Shaman Coffee to provide grab-and-go options

lockdown restrictions and temporary closures

to guests and locals alike, while Sheraton Hotels

have affected certain aspects of the industry

& Resorts has evolved its lobby experience,

more than others. The UK’s branded coffee shop

shifting its focus towards a community-driven

market suffered a near 40% decline in sales in

model. Properties in destinations including

2020 according to Allegra’s Project Café UK 2021

Tel Aviv, Dubai and Phoenix all feature the

SPOTLIGHT

100

new concept, which is inspired by café culture.

experiences. “Today we feel confident that

a full view of drink preparation and comes

“We are aiming to create an environment in

we can provide the market with an authentic

with double wall pro touch stainless steel

our lobbies where our guests feel comfortable

product, interesting from the philosophical,

wands, ergonomic handles and a contemporary

working, relaxing or connecting with others,

aesthetical and project point of view, and

solenoid-based design.

and we took inspiration from coffee house

innovative for modularity and flexibility – all

Looking ahead, Modbar is adapting its

culture when designing that experience,”

while maintaining coffee quality in the cup

strategy and product development in line with

explains Amanda Nichols, Global Brand Leader

which has always distinguished our company

the continued push for premiumisation, supply

at Sheraton Hotels. “Coffee is an important

and coffee experience ethos,” says Giulia

chain transparency and digitally innovative

element of our offering – not only in the

Spanio, Global Business Development Manager

solutions. “Technology continues to push the

morning, but throughout the day. We even

at Modbar.

accelerator on giving voice to raw materials,

have a special coffee-infused cocktail menu in

Short for modular brewing system, Modbar

raising the quality in the cup and ensuring ever

the evening, where guests can enjoy espresso

places the inner workings of espresso machines

higher standards,” reflects Spanio. “At the

martinis, Irish coffees and other cocktails

beneath the counter, allowing the taps to

same time, the technology applied to the coffee

blended with cold brew and coffee liqueurs.”

be neatly displayed on the countertop and

world is also turning its attention to requests

Serving top quality drinks will be particularly

eliminating the barrier between barista and

from the outside world – requests for ease of

important over the coming months, as hoteliers

customer. Based on research and development

use, exchange of information, automation and

look to get guests back through the doors. As a

from La Marzocco’s Linea PB, the Espresso

authenticity. And it is in this direction that

result, the procurement of high-quality coffee

AV coffee machine comes with the same level

Modbar is orienting its approach to the market,

machines will play a key role in this endeavour.

of reliability, performance and temperature

becoming a meeting tool and an opportunity for

Modbar – the original undercounter brewing

stability and features PID temperature control,

relationships and experience.”

system – is one of those enabling operators to

volumetrics and optional scales. This art piece

Behind the scenes, the way in which operators

push the boundaries by providing the tools to

for the countertop, is complemented by the

connect with suppliers to procure the latest

create unique spaces and memorable drinking

Modbar Steam station, which gives customers

technologies and products for F&B concepts has

SPOTLIGHT

102

also changed. Foregoing in-person meetings

“In the next phase we have planned to use the

more connected in holistic approaches of

in favour of virtual solutions, brands such as

showroom as a basis for live presentations as

self-checkout with a trend to touchless

WMF have led the way in this approach, taking

well integrating possibilities for direct contact

handling,” says Gey. “The web-based app

its portfolio online by launching a virtual

to our customer service and sales department

WMF SmartRemote is an innovative tool for

showroom to offer customers a new way to

via messenger and call-back buttons.”

ordering and preparing beverages completely

experience its products. “Digitalisation is

Based on the look and feel of WMF’s trade

contactless and enables restaurateurs, hoteliers

advancing relentlessly in all areas of society,

show booths, stations are accessed via an

and shop owners to continue to deliver self-

nowadays almost all companies are dealing

intuitive navigation concept, allowing users

service concepts in a way that is hygienic, clean

with digital concepts for communication and

to move around the room by clicking on

and safe.” Meanwhile, for businesses looking

interaction,” notes Renaud Gey, Vice President

different product areas or by using a three-

for real-time data on the readiness and output

of Strategic Marketing & Product Management

dimensional map. From here, visitors can glean

of its WMF machines, the brand’s telemetry

GBU Professional Coffee Machines at the WMF

more about the brand’s portfolio of machines

solution, CoffeeConnect, enables users and

Group. “This includes not only video conferences

including the fully automatic WMF 1300 S, via

service technicians to provide high diagnostic

and digital meetings, but also virtual events and

its Highlight counter; explore the Features &

depth and monitoring without human contact.

trade fairs.”

Innovations station, which provides insight on

As demand for specialty coffee and

Whilst not intended to replace face-to-face

the everything from cup functions to coffee

contactless solutions continues to grow,

interactions, a digital-first strategy offers a

technologies; or visit the Coffee Excellence

operators will remain committed to finding

platform for exchange, whether that be for

Centre, where specialty coffees recipes await.

new ways to incorporate the latest trends and

product information or personal consultations.

In addition to its virtual showrooms, the

digital innovations into the wider hospitality

“The experience rooms appeal to a new

German manufacturer has also responded

experience. Most likely, it will be the brands

generation of WMF buyers. After all, for young

to demand for contactless coffee equipment

that embrace new modes of communication,

restaurateurs and hoteliers, using virtual media

and services through its mobile devices. “Our

who operators will turn to help them navigate

is already part of everyday life,” explains Gey.

professional coffee machines have become

the next wave of coffee drinking experiences.

RELIABLE COFFEE QUALITY, BLENDING ROBUSTNESS AND EASY SERVICE. WMF 1300 S It delivers a quality coffee experience in a robust and reliable way. Offering a rich menu of professional coffee and chocolate specialities, the WMF 1300 S boasts a range of new features to ensure outstanding dependability and serviceability.

DE SIGNED TO PERF ORM

wmf.com

Supper Magazine_WMF 1300 S.indd 1

04/03/2021 09:24:08

@corbyhall_tabletop

www.corbyhall.com

Corby Hall Inc.

SPECIFIER

PETITS FOURS

Nude Rock & Pop Artist Inspired by the disruptive nature of rock, pop and punk culture, Nude has commissioned a number of young creatives to customise its signature glassware collections for a vibrant range of glass accessories. Graffiti artists Kien and Cins 3000, illustrator Umut Karaman and tattoo artists Erensu Ekmekçiler and Luca Font have updated the brand’s minimalist aesthetic with bold, graphic designs that marry rock culture’s timeless quality with Nude’s contemporary simplicity. Items include decorative glasses, water bottles and vases such as the Finesse Jug, Mirage Highball and Magnolia Vase, which have been created with pop art and modern sensibilities in mind, resulting in a range that blends fashion, fine art and pop culture. www.nudeglass.com

000

106

1. Monno Ripple

2. MyGlassStudio Modern Lunchbox

3. LSA Spring / Summer 2021

Developed by Queensberry Hunt for Monno, the Ripple collection represents the final design of Martin Hunt – a Royal Designer for Industry (RDI) – before his passing in 2018. The collection is a clear example of simplicity representing ultimate sophistication in design and boasts an ergonomic advantage due to Hunt’s carefully considered design process. This approach ensures that the tableware range is easier and safer to handle. The distinctive character of Ripple is demonstrated by its concentric horizontal relief, which is particularly striking when combined with glazes that have been developed by Monno’s laboratory. www.monno.com

Ideal for the forthcoming rise in room service options, MyGlassStudio’s Modern Lunchbox represents a casual but contemporary approach to food delivery. The set comprises a deep bowl in white and a coloured cover wrapped in an elastic black band, which can also be used as a side plate. Available in three sizes for a variety of portions and meals, the lids come in five vibrant colour variations: cream, pink, grey, mint and leather brown. A versatile solution for the delivery of small appetisers, finger food and snacks, or even afternoon tea, the lunchbox works in tandem with the brand’s other pieces including the leather tiffin carrier. www.myglassstudio.com

LSA has added to its offering of Select, Signature and Standard lines with nine new seasonal collections for 2021. Featuring contemporary pieces across drinkware, tableware and decorative accessories, architectural and geometric shapes sit alongside decorated glass, evocative of mountain peaks and the iridescence of bubbles, while innovations in colour and texture meet with mixed material finishes to add depth to this season’s palette. The Cask collection of decanters, tumblers and combination sets features cube, rectangular and oblong shapes, which are individually fitted with bespoke stoppers, moulded from solid glass and ground by hand. www.lsa-international.com

PETITS FOURS

1. Bonna East

2. Toyo-Sasaki Fino

3. Arcoroc Broadway

Established in Turkey in 1981, Bonna is a specialist in porcelain products and exports to more than 70 countries worldwide. The manufacturer’s belief that gastronomy is a total experience and the value that it places on quality presentation is exemplified by its East collection. Representing an elegant form of Far Eastern flowers meeting porcelain, the characterful range has been designed for the tableware brand by Robin Levien, one of Europe’s best-known and innovative designers. The unique aesthetic creates a distinctive platform for the designers of high-end gastronomy and can be adapted to suit a variety of presentations and occasions. www.bonna.com.tr

As one of Japan’s leading glassware manufacturers in terms of production and delivery output, Toyo-Sasaki employs a scientific approach using the most advanced equipment, as well as traditional craft and sensitivity to create world-class products. Combining traditional Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge design, the Fino series is a stackable glass that makes use of platinum hard strong tempered glass across its overall surface to achieve maximum durability. With a light-in-thehand design, the glass features a thin and smooth top, as well as a large but simple mouth design and is intended for use across a variety of modern dining scenes. www.toyo.sasaki.co.jp

The structure and style of Arcoroc’s Broadway collection represents a reproduction of vintage-style glassware. Characterised by distinct, sophisticated etchings from the base of the glass, the clever cuts are enhanced by the light, which makes for a interesting visual display. Furthermore, due to the cut glass, the glasses do not have an even surface, adding to the tactile pressure and comfortable, non-slip grip. This aesthetically pleasing and ergonomically designed collection comprises four stem glasses and five tumblers providing several service options from classic cocktails and gin and tonics, to shot glasses for spirits and liquors. www.arcoroc.com

107

Craster Flow Bento

108

Led by Alex Craster since 2003, the brand’s intelligently designed and durable products, from conferencing and event tables to modular systems, seek to emphasise the beauty of the underlying materials from which they have been made, bolstering its position as a highly respected supplier to the world’s leading hotel groups including Marriott International, Four Seasons, Kempinski and Hyatt. Over the past five years, Craster’s reach has steadily grown, enabling the company to significantly expand its footprint, demonstrated by the opening of a warehouse in New Jersey, a London showroom and last year the significant expansion of its talent pool of distribution partners. Refocusing its design team toward innovations in alternative F&B and conferencing, Craster is rising to the challenges presented by the pandemic with a variety of Covid solutions. Identifying the opportunities for new products within the single service and in-room dining categories, the Contactless Folding Tray Table – a flexible dining surface – and the Bento Flow range – a system of trays in various specifications

ideal for compartmentalising, ensuring high levels of cleanliness – demonstrate how the brand’s forward-thinking nature has allowed it to quickly shift tack and cater to the changing needs of its client base. The Flow tray is an ideal carriage for food and drink that protects plates of food in transit from kitchen to guest, whether dining in-room or within a hotel’s F&B spaces. A sustainable and cost-saving solution, transferring easily from single-serve to buffet with flow frames, trolleys and stands, it is fast becoming a luxury hospitality staple for operators. Completed by Craster’s growing collection of covered buffet solutions and satellite stations, the company’s current product portfolio recognises the need to adapt and utilise its existing ranges to help properties curate safety-conscious displays and dining concepts without compromising on guest experience and wellbeing. With the operational side of hospitality continuing to be tested, Craster is on hand to deliver intelligent serving solutions that are both practical and stylish. www.craster.com

PETITS FOURS

Libbey Modern America Libbey EMEA is dedicated to creating high-quality, elegant glassware supported by strong guarantees and solutions. Working with partners and customers that value innovation and originality, Libbey has reintroduced its Modern America range, which is inspired by America’s first fine handcrafted glasses. The range was first created in the era of transformation, coinciding with the last years of the Art Deco period. The stemware is available in five different shapes: Coupe, Wine / Cocktail, Nick & Nora, Gin & Tonic and Martini, with the tall and bold stem, along with the sturdy foot drawing inspiration from the architecture of New York’s most iconic landmarks from the era including the Empire State and Chrysler Buildings. The sleek and curvaceous silhouette of the bowl makes the glasses an ideal choice for serving premium liquors, wines and cocktails. www.libbey.eu

109

110

1. IHS Global Alliance Guards & Shrouds

2. John Jenkins Atlantic

3. WMF Synergy

IHS Global has collaborated with some of the world’s very best hotels and chefs for over thirty years. This has led to the development of products for buffets, conferences and banquets, as well inroom dining and live cooking. One such solution is the brand’s collection of guards and shrouds, which puts food safety and guest wellbeing at the forefront. Developed prior to the coronavirus pandemic, the range is based around the principle that products should look good and perform well. Entering the market alongside new remotely programmable e-labels, IHS seeks to ensure that the theatrics of food presentation continue to take centrestage. www.ihsglobalalliance.com

John Jenkins specialises in supplying the hospitality industry with handmade crystal and glass for the table and bar. Founded in London in 1901, the brand’s products can be found in luxury hotels and restaurants around the UK, as well as China, Hong Kong and Singapore in Asia, Saudi Arabia and Dubai in the Middle East, and the US and Caribbean in the Americas. Responding to a demand for more specialised glasses, the group’s William Yeoward Crystal brand supplies to the likes of the Rosewood, Mandarin Oriental and Four Seasons, with collections such as Atlantic and Bella proving to be particularly popular within high-end dining environments. www.johnjenkins.co.uk

With the first porcelain series of its own, WMF Professional is setting new standards as an all-round provider for a sophisticated dining culture. Featuring clear lines and a balanced geometry, Synergy comprises more than 40 items and encompasses everything from barista cups and wide-rim plates, to saucers and gourmet plates. The well-proportioned shape of the porcelain elevates plates to an impressive stage for showcasing fanciful and intricate dishes, while eyecatching dip bowls – provided with or without lid – combined with the circle line of the plates, offers a captivating look and feel and sets the stage for culinary creations. www.wmf.com

PETITS FOURS

1. Stölzle Lausitz Swing and Twist

2. Rona Linea Umana

3. Casarialto Firenze

4. Goodfellow & Goodfellow Basic Box with Lid

Inspired by the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties, German glass manufacturer Stölzle Lausitz has unveiled its latest novelties: Swing and Twist – a modern interpretation of the brand’s classic Champagne Saucers. The cubic shape of the goblet gently merges with the high, filigree pulled stem. Thus, the large Swing and the smaller Twist captivate with delicate and elegant details, which stands in contrast to the voluminous opulence of the bowls. Crafted from lead-free crystal glass, the Champagne Saucers also impress with a thin rim. Not only sparkling wine or champagne, but also cocktails are shown off when served in Swing and Twist glasses. www.stoelze-lausitz.com

Representing 125 years of glass masters’ skill, leading Slovakian glass manufacturer Rona has collaborated with award-winning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillip to deliver a collection that seamlessly balances sophistication and utility. Comprising four wine and two water glasses, the Linea Umana range combines soft human lines with brilliance and quality, ensuring wines can be enjoyed at their very best. Crafted using the brand’s pulled-stem technology, the ultra-light pieces are notable for their slightly flared edge and smooth inner surface, which encourages the release of aromas thus enhancing the drinking experience for guests. www.rona.glass

Casarialto was founded in 2008 as a fusion of international design knowledge and craftsmanship. It was in Venice that the brand met with glass masters to begin a creative partnership, weaving its modern and practical spirit with the centenary roots of Venetian expertise. With a unique knowledge and expertise in fully customising glass products for luxury hotels, restaurants and branded stores, the Firenze collection is just one of the many ranges crafted for the high-end hospitality sector and boasts a doublecoloured surface – transparent and grey glass, separated by a gold or silver thin band – and is handmade with great care and attention to detail. www.casarialto.it

Working with artists and ceramicists such as Charlie Martens of Studio Mattes, Goodfellow & Goodfellow is able to collaborate on ideas to suit specific themes or functional purposes. Martens is suitably adept at interpretating the brand’s thoughts, ideas and requests for the seemingly impossible when it comes to tableware. The Box with Lid for example, was devised to play on the art of the reveal. It’s simple form belies the craft it takes to produce an object that is both elegant and intriguing. It can be used for canapes, petits fours, amuse-bouchées or side dishes and its glazes can be changed to suit individual requirements and bespoke presentations. www.goodf.co.uk

111

PETITS FOURS

Sunkist Commercial Series Sectionizer The Sunkist Sectionizer and Sectionizer Jr. can be used for wedging, slicing, coring or halving fruits and vegetables into uniform pieces. Featuring a unique metal strainer and three extracting bulbs, operators can easily extract between 20-25 gallons of juice per hour using pre-cut fruits. Meanwhile, the new Pro Series Juicer is able to extract up to 10 gallons of juice per hour. The sectionizer was launched alongside is the Sunkist Commercial Juicer – recognised as one of the most reliable juicers within the category – it features a heavy-duty, high-torque motor that efficently extracts the maxiumum amount of juice from the pulp, with 20-gallon per-hour capacity. www.sunkistequipment.com

Dometic Dometic HiPro Evolution Dometic believes that sustainability means doing more with less. This is a philosophy that the brand has put into practice with the creation of the first chromate free mini-bar range on the market. Proving that a sustainable mini-bar is a smart mini-bar, the new HiPro range delivers more powerful cooling with up to 40% less energy consumption. With a minimalist design, illumination and crystal-clear doors, the state-of-the-art design has been created to help operators establish an outstanding premium in-room experience. HiPro minibars in 30- and 40-litres class are available with various cooling technologies such as noiseless thermoelectric or long-lasting absorption. www.dometic.com

112

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 23

Arcoroc Bonna

073 019, 053

Monno

010

MyGlassStudio

075 077

Bottega

091

Nude

Champagne Gosset

039

Pernod

006-007

Cognac Frapin

059

Renarte

014

Corby Hall

104

Rona

013

Craster

083

Stölzle Lausitz

047

Dometic

116

Sunkist

085

Frilich

093

To The Table

087

Goodfellows

002

Toyo Sasaki Glass

041

IHS

035

WMF Coffee Machines

103

John Jenkins

115

WMF Professional

005

Libbey

021

Wooliweiss Hospitality Services

037

Zafferano

045

Zieher

088

LSA Modbar

008-009 101

113

WASHING-UP

Nature Calls

At a time when demand for al fresco dining is

hotel has sought to bring the outside in. At all-

at its peak, Pan Pacific’s Parkroyal Collection

day dining restaurant Peppermint, plant-based

Marina Bay has raised the bar at the former

dishes showcase the very best of hand-harvested

Marina Mandarin hotel, transforming it into a

produce from the on-site urban farm, with diners

nature-lover’s paradise.

able to perch on the terrace and explore the herbs

Originally designed by neo-futuristic American architect John Portman, the garden-in-a-hotel

Billed as Singapore’s first garden-in-a-hotel, Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay gives guests a chance to become at one with their ecoinspired surroundings.

and edible flowers that feature on the farm-tofork menu.

has been conceived to incorporate several

Over at Cantonese restaurant Peach Blossoms,

biophilic features within one of Southeast Asia’s

chef Edward Chong elevates traditional dishes

largest indoor atriums. Transporting guests to

through innovative practices, while at Atrium

the treetops, attractions include the Atrium Sky

Lounge – a revamped garden oasis – nature-

Bridge, an elevated path overlooking the lush

inspired afternoon tea is severed by day, before

forest canopy, and sculptured pavilions inspired

carefully-curated cocktails and an extensive

by birds’ nests, which provide guests with a

range of whiskeys take centrestage at night.

chance to become at one with their surroundings.

A leafy escape defined by eco-friendliness,

Staying true to its sustainability principles,

experience and design, both early birds and night

Parkroyal Collection Marina’s Bay’s upgraded

owls will feel at home within Singapore’s first

F&B experiences are another example of how the

garden-in-a-hotel.

114

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Supper - Issue 23

Articles inside

Washing-Up

Java Script

SPOTLIGHT

MARKET INSIGHT

Cocktails

Drinks

SIPPING

DINING

Signatures

Torel Palace

Serena

Kingsland Locke

Beefbar

SERVICE

Appetisers

Bisushima

Crowning Glory

Columns