FOOD+DRINK
O N T H E LI N E W I T H
PAUL CRUZ
The longtime FS Food Group chef embraces Latin-inspired cuisine at their newest concept, Calle Sol Latin Café and Cevicheria BY TAYLOR BOWLER
Age: 39 You might know him from: When he was executive chef at Mama Ricotta’s Family status: Father of two kids, 11 and 8 Hometown: Lumberton Currently lives in: Matthews Favorite sports team: Panthers
What’s been the biggest challenge of transitioning from Italian to Cuban cuisine? I’ve been working for Frank (Scibelli, founder of FS Food Group) for 10 years, and I’ve been at every concept, so I’m used to it. I started at Bad Daddy’s, opened all the Midwoods (Smokehouses), and helped with the Yafos here and there. Then I was at Mama Ricotta’s for about two years. Tell me about developing a Latin-inspired menu. We’ve spent some time in Miami and worked with a Cuban chef there, Ana Quincoces, from The Real Housewives of Miami. We toured the city, ate at multiple restaurants, and cooked with Ana to learn to how to make the homestyle Cuban food your grandmother would make. We also worked with a Puerto Rican chef in Orlando, Frankie Ruiz. There are similarities in those styles of cooking. The menu has a Miami vibe, with Cuban, Peruvian, and Latin influences. What’s your favorite meal to cook? I’m actually very simple when it comes to cooking. I like simple, straightforward food like a good roasted chicken and potatoes. That would be my last meal. What do you think is an underappreciated flavor? Bay leaf. When we cooked with Frankie and Ana, they both used bay leaf in everything. The holy trinity was bay leaf, oregano, and white pepper. In this cuisine you need layers of flavor, and that’s what you use to get it.
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CHARLOTTEMAGAZINE.COM // JULY 2021
THE TOUGH STUFF Chocolate or cheese? Cheese Coffee or tea? Tea Cake or pie? Pie Spaghetti and meatballs or spicy noodles? Spaghetti and meatballs Lobster roll or egg roll? Egg roll Top Chef or Chopped? Chopped Comedy or drama? Comedy More money or more free time? More free time Street eats or sit-down? Street eats Facebook or Instagram? Facebook
What’s the most creative dish you’ve ever made? We did a dinner a few years ago at Camp North End with Yafo Kitchen. We made an Italian and Israeli mashup; it was a version of burrata with a Lebanese yogurt cheese inside. Is there one recipe you’d still love to master? Bolognese—there are so many different ways to do it. Any food trends you’re watching? I’m keeping a close eye on Latin cuisine. In Charlotte especially, with all the Sabors, the Latin side is gonna keep growing. What’s your favorite adult beverage? I like all IPAs. Any foods you won’t touch? There’s nothing I wouldn’t try. I haven’t been ruined yet (laughs). What do you like to do outside of work? I hang out with my kids outside. We throw a football, play soccer, or ride bikes. What’s your favorite restaurant in Charlotte other than your own? There’s a great hole-in-thewall Chinese place near my house, Lam’s Kitchen. I get takeout there about once a week. What’s your guiltiest pleasure? Rocky road ice cream. Any rules to live by in the kitchen? Work hard.
COURTESY RÉMY THURSTON
Where does your love of cooking come from? I grew up in the business. My parents have owned an Italian restaurant since 1986 called Adelio’s in Lumberton. I started cooking there when I was 10 or 11.
