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KAUA‘I GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i will release on all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2018-2019, including O‘ahu, Maui and Hawai‘i Island. Each island will be represented with its own unique, iconic landscape image as the cover art. These books are designed to
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KAUA‘I CONTENTS
ISLAND ESSENCE 10 DATEBOOK CALENDAR OF EVENTS There’s a lot to experience while visiting the island, from a Hawaiian cultural celebration to Kaua‘i’s “Ultimate Brunch.” BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
24 LONG LIVE HŌKŪLE‘A EPIC JOURNEY An excerpt from Patagonia’s “Mālama Honua: Hōkūle‘a— A Voyage of Hope.” TEXT BY JENNIFER ALLEN PHOTOS BY JOHN BILDERBACK
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32 “LITTLE PEOPLE” MENEHUNE MIGHT Manahuna, a word linguistically related to Menehune, is the name of a class of people—the commoners or “little people” who performed the labor at the order of the big, powerful ruling class—throughout central Polynesia. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
ON THE COVER Located on the North Shore of Kaua‘i, Rock Quarry Beach has a large pool where the Kīlauea River flows into the ocean. ©Glenn Guinita/Alamy Stock Photo INSIDE FRONT COVER The Nāpali Coast is known for its towering seacliffs and cascading waterfalls. ©Glenn Guinita/Alamy Stock Photo
The Original Wave Collection
An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry KAUAI Poipu Shopping Village • Grand Hyatt Kauai OAHU • MAUI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA
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KAUA‘I CONTENTS
ISLAND ESSENTIALS 16 FIRST LOOK KAUA‘I’S ATTRACTIONS WAIMEA CANYON: The “Grand
Canyon of the Pacific” provides an abundance of scenic views. KŌKE‘E STATE PARK: The lush grounds reveal ocean views and native wildlife. ANAINA HOU COMMUNITY PARK:
A welcoming place for visitors and island residents alike. NĀPALI COAST: The 15-mile-long rugged coastline is a true wonder. KĪLAUEA POINT: The Wildlife Refuge is a shelter for seabirds.
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38 ISLAND VIEWS KAUA‘I’S REGIONS No two parts of Kaua‘i are alike. KŌLOA: This charming town is rooted in its plantation past. COCONUT COAST: Comprised of the town Kapa‘a and Wailua. WAI‘ALE’ALE: Its name translates to “rippling water.” LĪHU‘E: This is the government and commercial center of the island. HANAPĒPĒ: Kaua‘i’s “Biggest Little Town” is a historic community. HANALEI: This North Shore area is graced with natural beauty. PO‘IPŪ: The beaches here rank among the best in the nation. KALĀHEO: Make a point to visit the National Tropical Botanical Garden. ANAHOLA: Idyllic swimming spot.
48 PARTING SHOT QUEEN’S BATH Located in Princeville, Queen’s Bath is a unique tide pool, which is surrounded by igneous rock.
SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE Learn about Hawai‘i’s popular fish and imbibe on a classic Blue Hawai‘i or tropical mai tai.
Horizon Pendant with Lapis Inlay and Pavé Diamonds
An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry KAUAI Poipu Shopping Village • Grand Hyatt Kauai OAHU • MAUI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA
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KAUA‘I ADVERTISING
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The Original Waterfall Collection
An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry KAUAI Poipu Shopping Village • Grand Hyatt Kauai OAHU • MAUI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA
NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2018
HAWAII’S BEST
People’s Choice Awards The Star-Advertiser 2018
HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2018
DATEBOOK THIS OLD TOWN
COLORFUL PARADE
The small yet proud town of Waimea has
With all the pomp and circumstance
been putting the word “unity” in “commu-
befitting of royalty, The King’s Parade &
nity” for more than four decades. This year,
Celebration features a procession of regal
enjoy a weeklong celebration at the old
horses and their beautiful pa‘u riders, each
Sugar Mill in Waimea. The event will feature
representing one of the eight islands. The
an ‘ukulele concert, sporting events, food, a
parade begins at Vidinha Stadium near the
beer garden and game booths. Named as
airport and travels along Rice Street to the
one of the dozen distinctive destinations by
County’s Historical Building Lawn, where
the National Trust for Historic Preservation,
there will be entertainment, crafts, demon-
Waimea Town offers a portal to the past.
strations and a wide array of food.
February 16-24, Waimea Town
June 11, Līhu‘e
PRINCE OF TIDES
CULTURAL DISPLAYS
In honor of Kaua‘i-born Prince Kūhīo, known
Named after the rare anise-scented berry
as “The People’s Prince,” the Ninth Annual
unique to Kaua‘i, the Mokihana Festival
Anahola Prince Kūhīo Day Celebration show-
travels across the island in a celebration
cases cultural and educational activities,
of Native Hawaiian arts and crafts.
demonstrations, and health and wellness
Competitions in Hawaiian instrument mak-
exhibits. The event reaffirms the leadership,
ing, music composition and dance engage
stewardship and vision of Prince Kūhīo,
people of all ages. This Kaua’i signature festi-
and his legacy in perpetuating the growth
val ends with a three-day hula competition.
of healthy Hawaiian community on ‘aina
September, maliefoundation.org
ho’opulapula (homesteads land). Mid-March, Anahola
WRITE ON!
HER MAJESTY LONG LIVE THE QUEEN
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“POKA” FEST
Conference offers aspiring novelists to
While it may be an invasive plant for some,
attend “Master Classes” with top authors and
it’s a reason to celebrate for others. Held
industry experts who will discuss such top-
early summer on Memorial Day Sunday in
ics as fiction, memoir, screenwriting, poetry
Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow, the Banana Poka
and the overall book-publishing process. The
Festival weaves the roots of the invasive
event will feature intimate group discussions
plants into useful baskets. The event features
on all aspects of the craft and the business
live music, exhibits by organizations and
of writing, as well as talks by noted authors.
agencies that work to save the environment,
November, kauaiwritersconference.com
along with lots of activities for children. May 26, Kōke‘e State Park, kokee.org
EPICUREAN EVENT
The Eō e Emalani i Alaka‘i Festival has become one of the most powerful Hawaiian cultural celebrations in the state. Each year, kumu hula (hula masters) and their dancers help to create an event that has touched thousands, many of whom return annually. Enjoy the beauty of Koke‘e, as the mountain forests echo with the sounds of Hawaiian music and chant. The day will also feature exhibits, craft tables, food and a silent auction. Bring your own mat. The event commemorates the 1871 journey of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma to the upland forests of Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow.
Considered the “Ultimate Brunch,” the Rotary
Mid-October, kokee.org
June 2, Smith’s Tropical Paradise
WH E R E G U E ST B O O K
Club of Kapa’a’s Taste of Hawai’i is a gourmet event that has grown into the premier culinary event on Kaua‘i. More than 25 chefs from around the state gather to provide attendees with a tasting extravaganza that is second to none.
(FROM LEFT) ©KAY KOIKE; ©MARK KUSHIMI/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY
Now in its fifth year, the Kaua‘i Writers
Collection available exclusively at Na Hoku.
An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry KAUAI Poipu Shopping Village • Grand Hyatt Kauai OAHU • MAUI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA
NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2018
HAWAII’S BEST
People’s Choice Awards The Star-Advertiser 2018
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› Kayak Adventures ‹ › Ancient River Kayak ‹ › Rainbow Kayak Tours ‹ Kayak 2 miles along the tropical waterways of the Wailua River. Hike 1 mile through a lush forest. Learn Hawaiian history, flora & fauna. Enjoy lunch & experience a secluded 120 ft waterfall. ROBERT TRENT JONES II DESIGN
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FIRST LOOK
©MAXIMKABB/ISTOCK
Affectionately known as the “Garden Isle,” Kaua‘i offers some spectacular scenery.
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Waimea Canyon
Tropical-looking they’re not, but the chasms of rust-hued cliffs and gorges have their own singular magnificence. The Waimea Canyon is known as “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” a geological marvel carved by ancient rivers and floods that flowed from the rains atop Mount Wai‘ale‘ale’s summit. Take in the canyon’s beauty from one of the numerous lookouts and hiking trails, where you can also see the cascading 800-foot Waipo‘o Falls. There are hiking trails leading into the valley, too. At the end of Waimea Canyon Road, 808.245.6001 for weather info
Located on the North Shore, this community gathering place offers a host of activities. Visit the campus and explore all its offerings, from taking a guided tour of the Hawaiian Botanical Garden to hiking the 4.5-mile Wai Koa Loop Trail. A skate park, playground, mini golf course, cafe and gift shop are also open to the public. Attend a weekly “Live Fire Show” at Anaina Hou’s Porter Pavilion. 5-2723 Kūhiō Hwy., Kīlauea, 808.828.2118, anainahou.org
Kōke‘e State Park
At the end of the road at a nearly 4,000-foot elevation, Kōk‘e‘e State Park hovers at the edge of the Earth in the far reaches of west Kaua‘i. The Kalalau Valley is one of several along the Nāpali Coast where lost tribes of Hawaiians are said to have dwelled in centuries past. Stop by Kōke‘e Natural History Museum for guided hikes, exhibits on the region’s endemic plants and wildlife, and maps and guidebooks for the area’s hiking trails. A stunning network of trails meanders among streams, ridgelines, and sun-dappled upland forests. If you can’t get enough of Kaua‘i’s wild side, the Kōke‘e Lodge offers cabin accommodations for those who want to explore the park more fully. Kōke‘e Natural History Museum, 808.335.9975; Kōke‘e Lodge, 808.335.6061. 18
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Nāpali Coast
The haunting, spiked peaks snake down Kaua‘i’s north coast for 16 colorful miles. The razor-sharp sea cliffs reach as high as 4,000 feet, and fluted valleys descend abruptly into the ocean below. It’s one of the most isolated areas in Hawai‘i, with sea caves, a zigzag shoreline, waterfalls and hidden valleys. Pre-contact stone work and taro terraces hold stories of lost tribes. Inaccessible by vehicle, Nāpali is seen by ocean craft, air or foot.
(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©HAIZHANZHENG/ISTOCK
Anaina Hou Community Park
(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©GLOWING EARTH PHOTOGRAPHY/ISTOCK; ©DENNIS FRATES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; ©JOEBELANGER/ISTOCK
FIRST LOOK
Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
Perched upon Kaua‘i’s northernmost point, the lighthouse at Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge once guided merchant ships crossing the ocean from Asia. Built in 1913, it was fitted with the biggest lens of its time. Now the lighthouse and its surroundings are one of Kaua‘i’s most scenic attractions. The steep bluffs surrounding the lighthouse are a haven for albatross and nesting nēnē (Hawai‘i’s state bird), and in the winter months, humpback whales can often be spotted. The grandeur of this place is breathtaking and not to be missed. At the end of Kīlauea Road, 808.828.1413.
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
Hōkūle‘a turning downwind in the Kaiwi Channel and completing the final leg back to Honolulu.
E OLA MAU ‘O HOKULE‘A LONG LIVE HOKULE‘A After three years circumnavigating the globe, Hōkūle‘a and sister ship Hikianalia successfully return to Hawaiian waters. TEXT BY JENNIFER ALLEN
THE WIND IS QUIET. THE WATERS, STILL. THE ONLY RIPPLES ARE those following children on paddleboards, making large, awestruck circles around the double-hulled sailing canoe, Hōkūle‘a. Lei maile drape the hulls. Ti-leaf garlands hang on the bow. Sails remain wrapped and tied around the masts. In full wind, those sails will billow into a 50-foot spray of crimson, the color of a Hawaiian king’s feathered cloak. Hōkūle‘a has been harbored here in Palekai, a springfed cove near Hilo for nearly a week now. Merchant ships, cargo containers, and petroleum tanks surround this lavarock girded bay. Hōkūle‘a seems like an island unto herself, undaunted, anchored, awaiting the winds to sail. It has been a big-sun day, with a sharp horizon, and no sight of clouds. Her captain is barefoot in blue jeans, adjusting the lines that swing the boom. His name is Charles Nainoa Thompson. He’s known as Nainoa. Nainoa has been navigating Hōkūle‘a for thirty-five years now, more than half his lifetime.
PHOTOS BY JOHN BILDERBACK
“You do not tell the winds what to do,” Nainoa has told his crew. “The winds tell you what to do.” Right now, the winds say, wait. The wait has allowed many things. It has allowed locals to stream into Palekai, dawn to dusk, with offerings. Busloads of school children have come, gifting lei, candied ginger, and poi for the crew. Paddlers have come by outrigger, just to have a look, all sharing the venerable greeting of honi with captain and crew, touching forehead to forehead, nose to nose, breathing in the same breath, sharing hā, sharing spirit. A pastor brought a hand-sewn silk flag that reads, Hae O Ke Aloha—His Love Is The Banner Over Us—to wave alongside the flag of Hawai‘i on the mast. The Hawaiian flag has yet to be raised. It, too, awaits the winds. The wait is teaching patience. Patience is key when you are about to launch on a three-year global voyage. First stop—Tahiti, two wind systems and 2,500 nautical miles away. In sailing to Tahiti, Nainoa will trace the same path WHERE GUEST B OOK
25
“Eddie had wanted to go to the land of his ancestors, to educate new generations, to bring dignity back to our kūpuna, our ancestors.”
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W H E R E G U E ST B O O K
Polynesians sailed centuries ago when they explored and settled these islands. Like his forefathers, Nainoa will rely on the wind, moon, swells, birds, fish, and stars as guides. Using traditional wayfinding skills, Hōkūle‘a will be sailed through and eventually beyond Polynesia, crossing the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans, to connect with communities who care for the health of the oceans and our shared island, Earth. The mission is aptly called Mālama Honua—to Care for the Earth. “Caring for the earth is in the traditions of Hawaiian ancestors for the world to use,” Nainoa says of his homelands. “Hōkūle‘a is the needle that collects the flowers that get sewn into a lei by Hawai‘i and gives it to the earth as an act of peace.” This act of peace continues to pour into Palekai even as the sun lowers over the mountains. The limping man with the koa-branch cane, the mother with the baby on her hip wrapped in a sarong, the fisherman steaming oysters, the farmer offering fresh kalo, the woman giving lomilomi massages … they continue to come, paying respects to Hōkūle‘a, the mana, the spirit of the Islands. Hōkūle‘a is the Hawaiian name for Arcturus, the star that sits at the zenith above Hawai‘i. The fisherman opens the oysters and places them onto a tablecloth-covered card table. It is dinnertime, and another captain, this one named Bruce Mealoha Blankenfeld, has just now stepped ashore. Bruce shares hā with the fisherman before diving in, dousing his oyters with chili-lime sauce. He smiles, nods, eats. Island-born and ocean-bred, Bruce has the broad build of a long-distance paddler and the steady gaze of a man who has studied miles of horizons. His palms are wide, worn, and strong from years of building and restoring Hōkūle‘a. From the hulls to decks, crossbeams to booms, his hands have worked and sanded and seamed her into a watertight vessel. Bruce will captain and navigate Hikianalia—just behind
Hōkūle‘a—to Tahiti. Hiki is a hybrid canoe, half-tradition/ half-modern, sailed in the ancient navigational way but with sixteen solar panels that power motors. Hikianalia is the Hawaiian name for Spica, the star that rises alongside Hōkūle‘a in the Hawaiian skies. In the low-lying sun, Hikianalia glides into Palekai. The crew is returning after practicing safety drills through the afternoon. Bruce watches as a crewmember tosses a rope to Nainoa and his crew aboard Hōkūle‘a. They bind the canoes, side-by-side, like sisters together for the night. There will be a hilo—a new moon—tonight. The skies will be dark, the stars, bright. The wind remains unchangingly still. “We just need a little bit of wind,” Bruce says, with a knowing smile. “A bit of wind to give us a good push.” IF YOU ARE LOOKING for the Southern Cross, just ask Nainoa. North Star, Hōkūpa‘a; Sirius, ‘A‘a; or Procyon, Puana: all you have to do is ask. Nainoa can show you where these stars and hundreds more rest in the nighttime sky. He can show you how he measures their movements, using his palm like a sextant along the horizon. He has been “calibrating” his hand for many seasons now, long before he was married and the father of five-year-old twins, Nai‘noa and Puana. “I am old,” he says. But he hardly seems so, with an agile grace that allows him to walk hands-free along the narrow safety rails, the palekana, of the canoe. For Nainoa, wayfinding has become a journey into his ancestral past. “We must now sail in the wake of our ancestors—to find ourselves,” Nainoa says, of the crossing to Tahiti. Hōkūle‘a was originally built with the clear desire to help Hawaiians find their path. By the 1970s, the culture of sailing canoes had “been asleep,” as Bruce likes to say, for over six hundred years. But in 1973, three men founded the Polynesian Voyaging Society—artist and historian Herb Kawainui Kāne, expert
PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
(Previous spread, from left) In memory of Eddie Aikau; Pwo navigator Nainoa Thompson; Hōkūle‘a’s lashing to hull. (This spread) Hōkūle‘a out in the open seas.
waterman Tommy Holmes, and anthropologist Ben Finney. They wanted to prove that Polynesians were once master ocean navigators who purposely found and settled the Hawaiian Islands. They wanted to dispel the myth that Polynesians had happened onto Hawai‘i by drifting aimlessly along currents. They wanted to resurrect navigational knowledge and to revive the culture that had been diluted by colonization. Hula was forbidden. Songs of the sea had been translated to suit tourists in Waikīkī. The native language was a whisper. When people lose their dance, songs, and language, they risk losing their history and narratives—a part of their collective soul. The Polynesian Voyaging Society wanted to help Hawaiians rediscover their strength, wisdom, and spirit. The plan was to build a replica of a voyaging canoe and sail her across the trades to Tahiti. They researched the massive double-hulled sailing canoes of eastern Polynesia, designed to transport several thousand pounds of people and goods. They looked to oral, written, and drawn historical records in Hawai‘i—including petroglyphs—to study the shape of the canoe and its sails. From this, they built Hōkūle‘a, a sixty-two-foot long wa‘a kaulua, double-hulled canoe, using plywood, fiberglass, and resin, with twin masts, claw sails, no motor, a sweep as a rudder, and a twenty-foot broad deck, all held together by eight cross beams and five miles of lashings. But to make the passage authentic, they needed to sail without modern navigational instruments. They needed someone to lead them, someone who could, as Bruce explains, “pull us through the curtain of time” so that Hawaiians could relearn what had been known centuries ago. Opening that curtain of time meant traveling to the coral atoll Satawal, in the Central Caroline Islands of Micronesia. There lived Pius ‘Mau’ Piailug, a master navigator known as a Pwo. Only a handful of Micronesians still knew the art of wayfinding, and none, other than Mau, were willing to share it outside their community.
Mau knew a navigational system that modern sailors had never before seen. It was something that Nainoa, then a twenty-three-year-old crewman, yearned to understand. “If you can read the ocean,” Mau would say, “you will never be lost.” Mau could read and discern eight separate patterns of ocean swells. Lying inside the hull, feeling the various waves hitting it, he could know the direction of the winds and the direction to steer the canoe. At dawn, he would study the horizon and predict the weather for the day to come. At dusk, he would predict the weather for dawn. And in the midst of a gale-swept, stormy night, days away from any safe harbor or land, Mau could steady the mind of any novice navigator—he could look the man in the eye, and with an unflinching gaze, tell him, “You are the light, you have the light within you to guide your family home.” Some called it magic. Bruce calls it being maka‘ala—vigilant, observant, awake. In May of 1976, Mau safely guided Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti in thirty-one days. Upon entering the bay of Pape‘ete, the canoe was greeted by more than 17,000 Tahitians, over half the population, welcoming her and her crew … home. Two years later, Hōkūle‘a embarked on another voyage to Tahiti—but without Mau. Both Bruce and Nainoa were on board when she capsized in thirty-foot swells, only hours after her launch out of Ala Wai Harbor in Honolulu. Without an escort boat, the crew sat on upturned hulls from midnight to sunset the following day, lighting flares in hopes that ship or airplane captains might see them. One crewmember, the legendary big-wave rider and lifeguard at Waimea Bay, Eddie Aikau, convinced Captain Dave Lyman to allow him to paddle on a surfboard to find help on Lāna‘i, some fifteen nautical miles away. Nainoa can still see Eddie taking off his life vest in order to freely paddle into a wind so fierce that the salt from the waves was blinding.
“Can you point to the way of Tahiti? Can you see the island? See the vision of the island rising from the sea. If you don’t have a vision, you will be lost.”
WHERE GUEST B OOK
29
“Hōkūle‘a is the needle that collects the flowers that get sewn into a lei by Hawai‘i and gives it to the earth as an act of peace.”
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The crew was eventually rescued. Eddie was never found. Nainoa understood why Eddie wanted to voyage to Tahiti. Eddie’s passion was not for his own glory but rather a reflection of his reverence for the past and his hope for the future. “Eddie had wanted to go to the land of his ancestors, to educate new generations, to bring dignity back to our kūpuna, our ancestors,” Nainoa remembers. Eddie’s legacy is why the Polynesian Voyaging Society continues to sail today. Eddie is why Bruce volunteered to help rebuild the severely damaged canoe. Eddie is why Nainoa went to Satawal to ask Mau to teach him Polynesian wayfinding. Until a Hawaiian could sail Hōkūle‘a, the quest would not be fulfilled. Nainoa needed to learn the skills of Oceania and then share this knowledge with future generations. Mau knew that a Pwo must pass the wisdom on. He also knew that wayfinding was on the verge of disappearing in his own islands. Mau then asked his own teacher, his grandfather, for permission to share these lessons. His grandfather agreed, reminding Mau that the Hawaiians were, after all, part of the Polynesian family. Positioning stones, shells, and palm fronds in the sand, Mau re-created a star compass for Nainoa. Mau taught him how to identify the stars as they rose up out of the ocean and then dove back in. Mau showed him how to decipher wind systems, how to understand sea birds flying to and away from land, how to interpret clouds. Mau taught him how to study the shape of the ocean and read the “character” in the waves. Mau taught him how to discern the varying widths and hues of the sun’s path along the waves. Mau was teaching him the language of the navigator—what Mau called the “talk of the sea.” Just as the Hawaiian god Maui is said to have fished the Hawaiian Islands out of the ocean, Nainoa would now need to pull Tahiti out of the sea.
In “An Ocean in Mind,” author Will Kyselka renders the multilayered teachings of Mau and their limitless affect on his student, Nainoa. “Can you point to the way of Tahiti?” Mau asked Nainoa during the last lesson of his two years of study. The teacher and student were observing the sky at Lāna‘i lookout, a coastal perch on the southeastern shore of O‘ahu. Nainoa pointed to the direction of Tahiti. Then Mau asked another question, one that required a deeper knowing. “Can you see the island?” Nainoa couldn’t literally see the island but he could, he told his teacher, see “an image of the island in my mind.” “Good. Keep the island in your mind,” Mau told him, “otherwise you will be lost.” “See the vision of the island rising from the sea,” Mau would often remind Nainoa. “If you don’t have a vision, you will be lost.” In 1980, with Mau on board, Nainoa safely navigated Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti. In doing so, Nainoa became the first Hawaiian to make a noninstrument passage from Hawai‘i to Tahiti since the fourteenth century. Since then, Hōkūle‘a has become the heart of the Hawaiian renaissance and, in the last forty years, she has sailed over 140,000 nautical miles of the vast Pacific, igniting a revival of sailing canoes throughout Polynesia, and igniting a voyaging revival that now includes twenty-eight wa‘a kaulua, voyaging canoes. In 2014, Hōkūle‘a, along with sister ship Hikianalia, set sail for Polynesia, marking the beginning of a three-year voyage that would cover a distance of 45,000 nautical miles. In June 2017, the two wa‘a returned to Hawaiian waters, concluding their “Malama Honua” (Care for the Earth) journey and tying the ends of their “Lei of Hope” around the world. Adapted from Mālama Honua: Hōkūle‘a — A Voyage of Hope (© 2017 Patagonia). Used by permission.
(Opposite page) The rigging for Hōkūle‘a’s mast; (This page, clockwise from top) Homecoming in June 2017; Taievau Maraetaata drapes lei over the bow; hoe uli.
MENEHUNE MYTH The diminutive legendary race was known for Herculean exploits in a single night. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
In Hawaiian mythology, the Menehune are said to be a race of people small in stature.
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ent fame, the original and genuine Brownies, known as the Menehunes, are referred to as an industrious race.” The Menehune are described to have been no taller than 3 feet; visible only to each other; and able to complete feats of masonry, such as the building of Waimea watercourse, in a single night. In fact, it was their rule that all endeavors be completed overnight, hence the origin of the saying: “He po hookahi, a ao ua pau”—In one night, and by dawn it is finished. A more modern adage, “E Menehune mai kākou,” is used to rally people to a common cause that usually requires a lot of manual labor. “Kānaka (native Hawaiians) would awake in the morning and be astonished by their ingenuity,” says Monte McComber, a Hawaiian cultural adviser. “The mo‘olelo we do have of Menehune is of them being helpful, skillful and fearful of kānaka. The mo‘olelo also note that kānaka were appreciative of these small-statured helpers.” It is believed that the Menehune are the real anthropological predecessors of the ancient Hawaiians. Some have even argued that the historical Menehune culture predates all other Polynesian cultures, and represents the historical link to the lost continent of Lemuria. While there is no reliable history of the Menehune, scholars and historians have debunked many of the far-fetched cultural stories
Kānaka would awake in the morning and be astonished by their ingenuity. The mo‘olelo we do have of Menehune note that kānaka were appreciative of these smallstatured helpers.
(ALL ILLUSTRATION) ©JOHANNA ENRIQUEZ HUI; ©JENNIFER WAN
Long before satirist Jonathan Swift conceived of his Lilliputians in “Gulliver’s Travels,” Hawai‘i already had its own legendary dwarfs: the Menehune. Often caricatured in television and print ads with large eyes and ears, bulging biceps and donning a warrior helmet, the cartoon-like Menehune of today belies the race’s legendary feats. Hawaiian mo‘olelo (stories/tales) recount a pygmy people with tremendous strength and energy, capable of supernatural achievements. On Kaua‘i, just up Menehune Road from Highway 50, near the Waimea Swinging Bridge, the remains of an old stone irrigation system quietly feeds both lush flora and a centuries-old debate. Called Kikiaola in Hawaiian, meaning “Chief Ola’s watercourse,” the ancient stonework is affectionately known as Menehune Ditch. A nearby historical marker from Hawai‘i’s territorial era reads: The row of hewn stones along the inner side of the road is a remnant of one wall of an ancient watercourse, which is said to have been made by the Menehune. “It will doubtless interest some readers to learn that Hawai‘i is the real home of the Brownies, or was; and that this adventurous nomadic tribe were known to the Hawaiians,” writes author Thomas G. Thrum in “Hawaiian Folk Tales.” “Unlike the inquisitive and mischievous athletes of pres-
(PHOTO) ©MANIC PHOENIX
It is believed that Menehune were responsible for building the Alekoko Fishpond, pictured left, and the Maniniholo Dry Cave, named after a legendary Menehune fisherman.
that linger today. For instance, in an article for the Bishop Museum Bulletin entitled “The Menehune of Polynesia and other Mythical Little People of Oceania,” the late anthropologist Katherine Luomala surveyed the folkloric record and compared scholarly theories and traditional accounts of the Menehune, finding that similar creatures derived from post-European contact. Those who theorize Menehune as an earlier, advanced Polynesian civilization cite linguistic evidence. Luomala notes that manahuna, a word linguistically related to Menehune, is the name of a class of people—the commoners or “little people” who performed the labor at the order of the big, powerful ruling class throughout central Polynesia. When the Europeans arrived, the word for the common laborer class in Hawai‘i had become maka‘āinana. Already by this time, the term Menehune had come to mean bands of supernatural craftsmen of slight stature who live in the interior of the islands, especially in the northern valley of Kaua‘i. “On the cliffs of Kaua‘i are still seen many paths and roads which were built by them,” William Hyde Rice writes in
“Hawaiian Legends. Bernice P. Bishop Museum Bulletin 3,” which was published in 1923. “These trails are still to be seen above Hanapepe, Mana, Napali, Milolii, Nualolo and Hanapu.” Reminders of the Menehune exploits abound on Kaua‘i, including the Alekoko Fishpond in Līhu‘e or the dry cave in Hā‘ena known as Maniniholo, named after the Menehune fisherman who dug it in order to trap a thieving spirit. There are breadfruit groves, hills, boulders, heiau (temples), trails, fishponds and river crossings that all hold stories about this energetic race. The Herculean achievements and amazing powers of this impish people— like those of the leprechauns and sprites—arouse our childlike imaginations. “Some treat the subject with gravity and respect, and express the belief that they were the original inhabitants of these islands, but gradually gave way to the heavier-bodied ancestors of the present race,” Thrum notes. “Others consider that the history of the race has been forgotten through the lapse of ages, while the more intelligent and better educated look upon the Menehunes as a mythical class of gnomes or dwarfs, and the account of their exploits as having been handed down by tradition for social entertainment, as other peoples relate fairy stories.” WHERE GUEST B OOK
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ISLAND VIEWS
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The oldest in the Hawaiian archipelago, Kaua‘i features emerald valleys and cascading waterfalls.
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Kōloa
Hawai‘i’s first commercial sugar plantation was in Kōloa, now known as Old Kōloa Town. The edifice of the original sugar mill remains, dwarfed by the boutiques and restaurants that have sprouted in the town’s restored plantation buildings. The landmark Sueoka Store, a more than century-old family business, provides everything you need for a day on Kaua‘i. The town’s history center is awash in plantation memorabilia, and the map of the Historic Kōloa Trail, available in many of the shops, is the ideal tool for a self-guided tour of the area. Highway 520 (Maluhia Road) is a canopy of hundreds of eucalyptus trees, known as the “Tree Tunnel,” that makes for a scenic and fragrant drive. If there’s anyplace in Hawai‘i where you should turn off the airconditioning and roll down the windows, this is it.
Coconut Coast
Coconut palms are abundant in the “Coconut Coast,” the most populated district of Kaua‘i. Resorts are sprinkled along the shoreline, and the prevailing view is of Nounou, a mountain also called the “Sleeping Giant.” This eastern region of the island is a mix of residences, shops and restaurants in discreet clusters along a rocky shoreline of subdued but fierce beauty. Kapa‘a, a plantation hub in the 19th century, is now a quaint town.
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Wai‘ale‘ale Crater
Its name meaning “overflowing water,” Wai‘ale‘ale Crater is known for its mesmerizing sights and the grandiose gestures of its waterfalls. More than just mere remnants of a shield volcano, the crater stands at 5,148 feet tall and averages more than 426 inches of rain per year, making its summit one of the wettest spots on earth. If the weather permits, the heart of the extinct volcano can be explored via helicopter.
(FROM LEFT) ©MARIUSZ PRUSACZYK/123RF STOCK PHOTO; ©MAXIMKABB/ISTOCK
ISLAND VIEWS
(FROM LEFT) ©DAEJA FALLAS/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA); ©ISAAC ARJONILLA
Līhu‘e
Līhu‘e is the commercial hub of the island and the county seat that’s full of mom-andpop restaurants, government offices and brand name stores. All flights to the island land here. The Kaua‘i Museum (pictured above) offers Hawaiian crafts workshops and displays Native Hawaiian artifacts, and the nearby Kilohana Plantation Estate, once the home of a sugar baron, can be toured by a horse-drawn wagon.
Hanapēpē
Kaua‘i’s “Biggest Little Town” was built by rice farmers in the 1800s and has since been revitalized by art galleries, cafés and antique shops. Every Friday evening, the streets buzz with activity as the town hosts “Art Night,” a self-guided gallery walking tour. Throughout its reinvention, the town’s original architecture has retained its integrity. One of the more popular attractions here is the Hanapēpē Swinging Bridge.
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The pleasing drive to the North Shore winds along pastures and through small towns, and then to a lookout over a valley lined with taro. This is Hanalei, with its fabled mountains, waterfalls and one-lane bridges, a town immortalized in film and song. With galleries, restaurants and natural beauty, Hanalei is a haven for artists and rock stars, surfers and nature lovers. A picturesque pier and curve of white sand mark Hanalei Bay.
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Po‘ipū
This is the island’s shrine to sun worshipping, even for monk seals. Many of the island’s hotels, vacation condominiums, resorts, upscale restaurants and bars are located in Po‘ipū. Prince Kūhiō and Brennecke beaches have some of the best swimming and body surfing. The beautifully landscaped Allerton Garden in Lāwa‘i Valley, the former summer home of Queen Emma (wife of King Kamehameha IV), is a force of nature.
(FROM LEFT) ©MALGORZATA LITKOWSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©JBEARD
Hanalei
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Known as Kaua‘i’s “upcountry hamlet,” the small southwestern town is located between Līhu‘e and Hanapēpē and was once a settlement for sugar plantation workers. Today, sugar production has yielded to coffee cultivation, where over four million coffee trees are grown on more than 4,000 acres, making Kaua‘i the largest coffee plantation in the United States. Stop by Kukuiolono Golf Course and Park for a nine-hole course.
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Anahola
Part Hawaiian homestead land for those from Hawaiian lineage and part public lands, Anahola is a small community on the island’s northeastern side. A half-mile stretch of white sand, Anahola Beach Park is a family-friendly stop, perfect for swimming. Nearby at Moloa‘a Bay, fans of “Gilligan’s Island” may recognize familiar shoreline views from the opening credits of the classic 1960s television sitcom.
(FROM LEFT) ©RICHARD CANO/ISTOCK; ©DOUG JAMES/SHUTTERSTOCK
Kalāheo
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P
oipu Bay Golf Course’s 210 oceanfront acres meander along rugged coastline, featuring spectacular vistas and cooling trade winds that will test all levels of play and yet fun for novices as well. Host of the PGA Grand Slam of golf from 1994—2006, Poipu Bay features an award-winning golf shop. Adjacent to the course is the Grand Hyatt Resort & Spa.
808-742-8711 | www.poipubaygolf.com
WAILUA KAYAK ADVENTURE Travel with Wailua Kayak Adventure down the Wailua River, the “River of Dreams.” Let Wailua Kayak Adventure take you exploring the ancient pathway of the gods into the valley of the Royal Ali‘i. Travel at your own pace while your guide fills you in on the historical and religious significance of this spectacular river valley. Paddle its glassy waters between flower-enshrouded banks, with Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale rising beyond in all its magnificence. Journey into the ancient rain forest where they tie up and begin a jungle trek along a pristine mountain stream, explore ruins and terraces, and swim below a 120-foot waterfall. Plenty of organic snacks are provided. Ask about half-price specials. We also rent kayaks, Sups and Surfboards. 1347 Ulu Street, Kapaa Hi. 96746
Tours Call 808.639.6332 Rentals Call 808.320.0680 Email: sacredriver@hawaiian.net wailuakayakadventure.com
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PARTING SHOT
Magical Moment KAUA‘I BOASTS SOME OF HAWAI‘I’S MOST SPECTACULAR
ONE NEAR QUEEN’S BATH IN PRINCEVILLE. THE HAWAIIAN WORD FOR WATERFALL IS WAIPUANANI, WHICH LITERALLY TRANSLATES TO MEAN “HEAVENLY WATER FLOWER”. 48
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©ADAM SPRINGER/SHUTTERSTOCK
WATERFALLS, INCLUDING THIS
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BOUNTY OF THE SEA A TALE OF TWO COCKTAILS RESTAURANT GUIDE
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D4 BOUNTY OF THE SEA HAWAI‘I’S FAVORITE FISH When dining out, be sure to ask your server for the day’s fresh catch, which can range from yellowfin tuna to opah. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
D12 A TALE OF TWO COCKTAILS THE MAI TAI AND BLUE HAWA‘I These two quintessential tiki cocktails have been around for more than six decades and they still remain as popular today as they did when they were first introduced.
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D20 DINING GUIDE ©STEPHEN FRINK COLLECTION /ALAMY
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ON THE COVER
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Oasis on the Beach’s seared catch of the day is accompanied by bok choy. (© Mark Kracht)
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BOUNTY OF THE SEA Hawai‘i’s surrounding waters teem with schools of tropical fish. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
It’s 5:30 on a Tuesday morning and the clang of a brass bell echoes, signaling the start of the bidding war at the Honolulu Fish Auction on Pier 38. Huddled around pallets of freshly offloaded fish, chefs and fishmongers bid on thousands of pounds of big-eye and yellowfin tuna, marlin, opah, swordfish, mahimahi, ono and much more. Some of the fish are destined for nearby restaurants while others will be exported to the outer Hawaiian islands, the mainland and other countries. “There is a method to the madness,” says Brooks Takenaka, general manager of the United Fishing Agency, which has operated the auction since 1952. “And the auction doesn’t end until all the fish are gone.”
As fish are sold, pallet jacks dart in and out of the auction area. Local fishmonger Guy Tamashiro does the same. His family’s popular namesake market in Kalihi carries some of the freshest fish on the island, thanks to the auction. “I’m here at 5:30 in the morning, six days a week,” says Tamashiro, whose grandparents, Chogen and Yoshiko, opened their first market in Hilo in 1941. “The auction is great because I get to select the fish I want. I get to physically see and touch the fish.” Fishing was vital in old Hawai‘i. Skilled lawai‘a (fishermen) were deeply revered in the community and those who could supply large amounts of fish from ponds or catches at sea were believed to possess mana kupua,
One of the more popular fish in the islands, mahimahi possesses a delicate flavor and is best eaten when fresh.
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(This page) In Hawai‘i, “ahi” refers to two species: the bigeye and the yellowfin tuna. On a good day, almost 60,000 pounds of fish will be auctioned off. (Next page) A close-up look of the tail of an opah.
COLLECTION /ALAMY; ©ISAAC ARJONILLA (2)
Located on the windward side of the island, He‘eia Fishpond is a kuapā-style (walled) fishpond enclosing 88 acres of brackish water. Built approximately 600800 years ago, the fishpond is possibly the longest in the island chain, measuring approximately 7,000 feet long and 12-15 feet wide, and forms a complete circle around the pond. By allowing both fresh and salt water to enter the pond, the water environment is brackish, and therefore conducive to the growth of certain types of limu (seawed), which can feed schools of herbivorous fish, such as ‘ama‘ama, awa, palani, aholehole, moi, kokala, kākū and papio. The 25-year, long-term goal is to be able to stock the pond and have it serve as a model of sustainability, while simultaneously restoring the eco system in the ahupua‘a (land division) of He‘eia.
(PREVIOUS SPREAD): ©NATURE PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY. (THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©STEPHEN FRINK
or supernatural power, to attract fish at will or make them multiply. Some fish were harvested in loko‘ia (fishponds); others were pulled from the ocean. In their infancy, fishponds were built by ali‘i (chiefs) so they could stock the brackish waters with fish and raise them for later consumption during the winter months when deep-sea fishing was perilous. “The loko‘ia wasn’t to replace fishing; it was to supplement it,” says Angela Hi‘ilei Kawelo, executive director for Paepae o He‘eia, a private non-profit organization that works in partnership with landowner, Kamehameha Schools, to manage and maintain He‘eia Fishpond in Kāne‘ohe Bay for the community. “It was sustainable aquaculture, although I doubt kupuna (elders) were thinking green when they built these ponds.”
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a buttery basil sauce, you’re sure to find a taste to suit your palate. Fishing for some types of local fish is restricted at times by the state, so availability may be affected. Ask your waiter if opah, ulua or hebi is a catch of the day. If so, place an order. And don’t wait for dinner. Island fish and eggs make a great breakfast; a fresh fish sandwich on the beach can’t be beat; and raw fish, sashimi, is our all-time favorite pūpū. “We’re lucky because we’ve got some of the best fish in the world,” Takenaka says. “And the auction is one of the best venues to show people the quality of Hawai‘i’s fish.” Honolulu Fish Auction tours are available, by reservation only, on select Saturday mornings from 6-7:30 a.m. Cost is $25 for adults and $20 for kids 8-12 years old. Tours are not scheduled mid-December to mid-January. hawaii-seafood.org/auctiontour
We’re lucky because we’ve got some of the best fish in the world. And the auction is one of the best venues to show people the quality of Hawai‘i’s fish.
©ISAAC ARJONILLA
“Who knows if we can reverse the environmental damage already done?” Kawelo asks. “But we’re pretty stubborn and we’re just going to do it. It’s a question of what is it that we want our kids to remember? Do we want to tell them that we were part of restoring this fishpond? Or, do we want to tell them that we didn’t do anything to help?” Local chefs are also doing their part to support the local seafood industry. In addition to popular ahi, opakapaka, ono and mahimahi, they are starting to use the lesser known fish, such as monchong (sickle pomfret), opah, hebi, nairagi (striped marlin), uku (blue-green snapper), hapu‘upu‘u (sea bass), onaga (long-tail red snapper) and ulua. Each has a unique taste and texture. So whether you choose sashimi-style with shoyu and wasabi, grilled with garlic or pan-fried in
A TALE OF TWO COCKTAILS The mai tai and Blue Hawai‘i are steeped in legendary lore. TEXT BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
PHOTOS BY ISAAC ARJONILLA
They’re no longer just bars but liquid kitchens. And they’re not bartenders; they’re mixologists. For the past decade, the art of crafting a cocktail has been an intoxicating trend to watch—and sip. Bitters, sours and just about every ingredient has been muddled, coated, dusted, frosted and flamed to achieve some form of magical elixir. And while the cocktail landscape may have changed, the Blue Hawai‘i and the mai tai still remain the preferred libations among many of our visitors. Considered the godfather of Hawaiian cocktails, Harry Yee— who celebrated his 100th birthday in September—is credited with having helped spread tiki bars and tiki culture during the mid20th century, both in Hawai‘i and in the continental United States. With orchids, parasols and even a Chinese back scratcher as garnishes, the exotic drinks of our islands are some of the most unusual in the world. Yee created 15 of them, including the Banana Daiquiri and Tropical Itch. He invented the Blue Hawai‘i in 1957 in Waikīkī because nobody knew what to do with blue Curaçao. This mellow, fruity electric blue libation is just a little older than Hawaiian statehood, preceding Elvis Presley’s movie and subsequent hit song by
the same name. Slide aside the island garnishes (paper parasol, pineapple, orange wheel or perhaps a big Hawaiian blossom) and experience the liquid version of that melancholy serenade to the tropics, full of exotic pineapple and tart orange notes. There are many variations on the recipe for this drink—a subject of slight controversy—ranging from light rum to dark rum, and sometimes including Crème de Coconut or coconut rum. Then, of course, there’s the age-old dilemma: to blend, or not to blend? Its hue will vary, just like our Hawaiian waters, but the color is always unmistakably blue. “Those days when tourists came in, they said, ‘Give me a Hawaiian drink,’” Yee was quoted by author Rick Carroll. “We didn’t have any Hawaiian drinks. There were no such things as exotic drinks. Or tropical drinks from Hawai‘i. So we started thinking, gee, we better start making something for the tourists—something catchy, not too strong and nice to sip.” In oft-cited cocktail lore, the late Vic Bergeron of Trader Vic’s fame is credited with creating the mai tai. In a 1947 book, “The Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide (Revised),” Bergeron explained how, in 1944, after success with several exotic
The classic Blue Hawai‘i is a tropical cocktail made of coconut rum, vodka, Blue Curaçao, sweet and sour mix and pineapple juice.
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Two of the more quintessential cocktails of the 1950s “tiki culture,” the Blue Hawai‘i and mai tai continue to be popular among visitors.
rum drinks, he felt a new drink was needed. “I thought about all the really successful drinks—martinis, Manhattans, daiquiris, all basically simple drinks,” Bergeron wrote. “I took down a bottle of 17-year old rum. It was J. Wray & Nephew from Jamaica—surprisingly golden in color, medium bodied but with the rich pungent flavor particular to the Jamaican blends.”
He infused the rum with fresh lime, orange Curaçao from Holland, a dash of rock candy syrup and a dollop of French orgeat for a subtle almond flavor. He then added a generous amount of shaved ice and shook it vigorously by hand to produce “the marriage” he was after. The San Francisco native gave the first two to friends Eastham and Carrie Guild from Tahiti. They took one sip and said: “Mai tai roa ae.” In Tahitian, this means “out of this world, the best.” And a legend was born. In 1953, Bergeron introduced the mai tai to Hawai‘i at the Royal Hawaiian and Moana hotels in Waikīkī. “There’s been a lot of conversation over the beginning of the Mai Tai,” Bergeron told Carroll. “And I want to get the record straight. I originated the Mai Tai.” Another story involves Trader Vic’s amicable rival, Don the Beachcomber, who claimed he created the mai tai first in 1933 at his newly opened bar in Hollywood. The Beachcomber’s recipe is more complex than that of Trader Vic’s, calling for both dark and golden rum, Angostura bitters, anise-flavored liquor and Falernum—a Caribbean syrup that is now difficult to obtain. Today, the mai tai is served throughout the Islands, and Kaua‘i’s mixologists have also come up with their own unique variations, using locally sourced ingredients. Cheers!
Photo Credit to Daniel Lane
Hukilau Lanai Fresh Local Fish | Live Music Nightly Twenty Great Wines by the glass 808.822.0600
www.hukilaukauai.com Reservations Recommended
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THE WINE GARDEN
4495 Puhi Road, Lihu’e
(Across from the Kaua’i Community College)
(808) 245-5766 | www.kauaiwinegarden.com Kauai’s first specialty wine store, The Wine Garden offers a carefully selected collection of interesting and unique wines, both domestic and imported. The Wine Garden also carries a wide array of beer from around the world, premium hand-rolled cigars, gourmet chocolate, and more.
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A “Hole” Lot of Flavor! • Premium Polish sausage or Non-GMO veggie gods • House baked artisan buns • Garlic Lemon secret sauce and Hawaiian fruit relish. • One of the Top 10 hot dog stands in America by The Travel Channel
www.Pukadog.com South Shore | Poipu Shopping Village | Open Daily 10am-8pm | 808.742.6044
Photo Credit to “Paradise Productions”
“I couldn’t imagine what mango on a hot dog and all of these flavors would taste like together... It’s delicious. I love it!” - Anthony Bourdain
The Cabana Bar and Grill is located inside the Poipu Beach Athletic Club and is open to the public. We are the hidden gem on the South Shore. We offer a family friendly, open air concept! You can follow us on Instagram @thecabanakauai or check us out online at www.thecabanakauai.com
808-320-3006
Email thecabanakauai@gmail.com 2290 Poipu Rd — Poipu, HI
RESTAURANT GUIDE HANALEI Hanalei GourmetCL00481 Pacific Rim. Find fresh, local produce, house-baked whole grain bread and award-winning tropical drinks at this cafe. Live music on Sundays and Wednesdays. 5-5161 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.826.2524. hanaleigourmet.com. L, D, C, B/W Northside GrillCL00481 Pacific/American. With stunning views of Hanalei, this open-air restaurant was formerly known as Bouchons. This family-owned and -operated eatery offers Pacific-American fare, including locally caught seafood, St. Louis ribs, signature fish and chips and a premier sushi bar. 5-5190 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.826.9701. northsidegrill.com. L, D, C, B/W
HANAPĒPĒ MCS GrillCL006781 Regional. A local neighborhood favorite that’s known for its homestyle cuisine, affordable prices and friendly service. 1-3529 Kaumuali’i Hwy., 808.431.4645. L, D
KAPA‘A Cafe PortofinoCL006781 Italian. Upscale Northern Italian cuisine served in a comfortable al fresco ambiance. There are a variety of specialty pastas, fresh seafood and hearty entrees. 3481 Ho‘olaule‘a Way. 808.245.2121. cafeportofino.com. D, C, B/W Hukilau Lānai008136 Regional. Inventive island flavors, fresh local seafood and a unique wine list along with nightly entertainment. Kauai Coast Resort at the Beachboy, 520 Aleka Loop, 808.822.0600. hukilaukauai.com.0597 D, C, B/W Monico’s Taqueria Kaua‘i Mexican. The indoor/outdoor restaurant serves fresh and savory Mexican favorites, including chile relleno, seafood enchilladas and tacos. Kinipopo Shopping Village, 4-356 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.822.4300. monicostaqueria.net.0597 BB, L, D, C, B/W
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Oasis on the Beach Regional. A farm-to-table restaurant that’s committed to sourcing local ingredients and turning them into culinary masterpieces. Savor such specialties as braised boneless short ribs, seared catch of the day and honey-braised pork cheek. 4-820 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.822.9332. oasiskauai.com.0597 BRBR (Sat. and Sun.), B, L, D, C, B/W Papaya’s Natural Foods0T0h8e135, Regional. A health food store that’s well known for its local products, salad bar, refreshing smoothies and coffee. 4-831 4-901 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.823.0190. papayasnaturalfoods.com Open daily Rainbow Living FoodsCL008135 Regional. Kaua‘i’s first raw vegan cafe specializes in locally grown, organic and gluten-free cuisine. Try such vegan dishes as walnut veggie patty on flax bread and zucchini pasta. 4-1384 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.821.9759. rainbowlivingfoods.com L Smith’s Family Garden Lū’auCL005968 Regional. This lū’au is set within a 30-acre botanical and cultural garden in the Wailua River Valley. Take a leisurely stroll around the garden before watching a roasted pig unearthed from an imu (underground oven). Then sip on a mai tai and feast on the buffet dinner, all while enjoying the Polynesian dance revue. Smith’s Tropical Paradise, 5971 Kuhio Hwy., 808.821.6895. smithskauai.com. D Street Burger0T0h8e135, American. An urban-chic eatery known for its locally sourced burgers, handcut fries and impressive selection of local and craft beers on tap. 4-369 Kūhiō Hwy., B-8, 808.212.1555. streetburgerkauai.com L, D, B/W
KĪLAUEA Cafe and Food Court at Anaina Hou Community ParkCL004182679 Regional. Find healthy, gourmet breakfast and lunch options. A rotating convoy of food trucks offers a wide variety of cuisines, from Mexican to Thai. 5-2723 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.828.2118. anainahou.org. B, L, D, B/W
Porter Pavilion at Anaina Hou Community ParkCL00418267908136 Regional. Enjoy the North Shore’s newest one-stop entertainment option—a Polynesian fire show known as the “Ahi Lele.” Presented every Wednesday at 7:30 p.m. Arrive between 5:30 and 6:30 p.m. to enjoy a dinner special at the Cafe and Food Court. 5-2723 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.828.2118. anainahou.org. D, B/W
KŌLOA/PŌ’IPŪ Bangkok Happy Bowl Thai Bistro & BarCL00418267 Thai. Authentic Thai cuisine in a bistro atmosphere. There is also a full-service sushi bar. Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808. 742.9888. bangkokhappybowl.com L, D, C, B/W Cabana Bar & Grill418267 Pacific Rim. Located inside the Pō’ipū Beach Athletic Club, this casual restaurant offers an inviting atmosphere and an eclectic menu that offers everything from summer rolls and kalua pork sliders to chicken bahn mi burger and ahi wraps. 2290 Pō’ipū Rd., 808.320.3006. thecabanakauai.com. L, D, C, B/W Beach House RestaurantCL00418267 Pacific Rim. This award-winning, fine dining restaurant overlooking the sea it the perfect place for a romantic evening with that special person. 5022 Lawai Rd., 808.742.1424. the-beach-house.com. L, D, C, B/W Eating House 1849CL005971 Regional. Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi’s take on traditional local fare. Try the spicy ramen. Shops at Kukui’ula, 2829 Kalanikaumaka Rd., 808.742.5000. eatinghouse1849.com. D, C, B/W Keoki’s ParadiseCL0041829 Hawaiian Fusion. Enjoy such local specialties as the Koloa pork ribs or “Keoki’s Style” fish, baked in a garlic. Don’t forget to leave room for their specialty dessert— Kimo’s Original Hula Pie! Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808.742.7534. keokisparadise.com. L, D, C, B/W
Puka DogCL0041827 Hawaiian/American. Mouthwatering “bun-sized” loaves are pierced through to make a puka (hole) to fit a perfectly grilled sausage and the store’s secretrecipe relish and sauces. Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808.742.6044. pukadog.com. L, D Ruth’s ChrisCL005971 American. Featuring the finest USDA Prime steaks, fresh island seafood, award-winning wine list, and a wide variety of appetizers, side dishes and desserts all served in a gracious environment with warm hospitality. Shops at Kukui’ula, 2829 Kalanikaumaka Rd., 808.278.6100. ruthschris.com. D, C, B/W
LĪHU‘E Naupaka TerraceCL0081369 Regional. Known for its breakfast during the day and contemporary island cuisine in the evening. Aqua Kaua’i Beach Resort, 4331 Kaua‘i Beach Dr., 808.245.1955. kauaibeachresorthawaii.com. B, D, C, B/W Duke’s Canoe ClubCL008136 Seafood. Serving such island favorites as fresh local fish and huli-huli chicken along with a full salad bar. The Barefoot Bar offers sweeping views of Nāwiliwili Bay and a menu of local appetizers. Kaua‘i Marriott Resort & Spa, 3610 Rice St., 808.246.9599. marriott.com. L, D, C, B/W Hamura’s Saimin StandCL00253 Regional. Crowds often line up at this 40-year-old institution for a bowl of the famous homemade saimin. The restaurant was honored by the James Beard Foundation as an “American Classic.” 2956 Kress St., Cash only, credit cards not accepted 808.245.3271. L, D Hā Coffee Bar 0Pacific Rim. An intimate coffee
shop that was built to resemble a classic old school bar. Stop by for a slice of pie, açaí bowl or a pastry from such local bakeries as Heartflame Bakery and Mailani Sweet Treats. 4180 Rice St., 808.631.9241. hacoffeebar.com B, L
RESTAURANT GUIDE Oasis on the Beach Burger
The Wine Garden Specialty. The first specialty wine store on Kaua‘i with a large array of wines in all price range, international and domestic craft beers, cigars and gourmet foods. 4495 Puhi Rd., 808.245.5766. kauaiwinegarden.com. Open daily
PRINCEVILLE 0Kaua‘i GrillCL0041832
Regional. This elegant hideaway promises a spectacular modern dining experience. The St. Regis Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Rd., 808.826.9644. kauaigrill.com. D, C, B/W Princeville Wine Market 041827 Specialty. This boutique wine store offers fine wines at every price point. 5-4280 Kuhio Hwy., 808.826.0040.
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princevillewinemarket. com. Open daily
WAIMEA Shrimp StationCL0081372 Seafood. A casual roadside eatery on the way to Waimea Canyon, serving fresh, sautéed peel-and-eat shrimp in a variety of sauces. 9652 Kaumuali’i Hwy., 808.338.1242. shrimpstation.com. Open daily Wrangler’s SteakhouseCL008137 American. Large handselected cuts of steak and multi-course dinners in a paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) atmosphere. Try the hot sizzling T-bone or tender sirloin. For a quick nibble, go to “The Saddle Room.” 9854 Kaumuali‘i Hwy., 808.338.1218.
L, D, C, B/W
KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner; (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer & Wine.
©OASIS ON THE BEACH
WB’s Restaurant & GrillCL00253 Regional. Homestyle cooking that is satisfying. Serving a mix of local favorites. 2978 Umi St., 808.3203241 L,D, C, B
Casual Up, Asian-American Fusion’ Open air dining view. Full Bar, main menu offers Seafood, Sushi, Steak, Salads, Poultry & Pasta
Reservations: 808-826-9701 | Ching Young Village, Hanalei Open 12 noon - 8:30 pm daily | northsidegrillhanalei.com | northsidehanalei@yahoo.com 117
ITALIAN RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA
R I G H T O N THE BEACH 2013 Zagat award 2012 Zagat Rated Excellent
Also Specializing in Seafood and Steaks
2011 Zagat Rated 1999 Zagat Award 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012, 2013 -DiRoNa Award 2001, 2002 AAA Diamond Award 2009, 2010 -Fodor Star Award “One of the Top Ten” -Gourmet Magazine “A Honeymoon Destination” -Martha Stewart “Come for the True Amore” -Globe Trotter Travel Guide 2001 International Award of Excellence - Five Stars “Recommended” -Frommer’s Travel Guide Production Supervisor “Highly Recommended” -Trip Advisor
“Romantic Harp Music Every Night” Open 7 Days a Week Oceanfront Dining from 5:00 pm to 9:30 pm Dancing on Thursdays from 10:00 pm to 2:00 am (dress code) Located on the Beach at the Kauai Marriott ~ Free Valet Parking at the Hotel Reservations Recommended ~ Perfect for Weddings and Rehearsal Dinners
(808) 245-2121