Guestbook Maui 2018-2019 by Morris Media Network

MAUI

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A W H E R E G U E ST B O O K PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

WELCOME TO MAUI

WHERE GUEST B OOK

MAUI GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i will release on all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2018-2019, including O‘ahu, Kaua‘i and Hawai‘i Island. Each island will be represented with its own unique, iconic landmark as the cover art. These books are designed to entertain where GUESTBOOK

MAUI

O‘AHU 2019

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O‘A H U

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ISLAND

where GUESTBOOK

HAWAI‘I

and educate visitors about each respective island,

and to tell the stories of Hawai‘i in an engaging and

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artistic manner. We hope you enjoy the book as

K A U A‘I

much as we took pleasure in writing about Hawai‘i’s KAUA‘I 2019

HAWAI‘I ISLAND 2019

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treasures, places and people.

MAUKA

MAKAI

CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENCE 30 NATURAL WONDERS SPLENDID BEAUTY

A photographer captures the vibrant colors, shapes and textures of elements that can be found around the island. BY ZACH PEZZILLO

38 LONG LIVE HŌKŪLE‘A EPIC JOURNEY ON THE COVER A female floats beneath a secluded waterfall, which is located off the famed Hāna Highway. ©Rob Hammer/Getty Images INSIDE FRONT COVER Low angle view of palm trees. ©Getty Images/ EyeEm 4

W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

An excerpt from Patagonia’s “Mālama Honua: Hōkūle‘a—A Voyage of Hope.” TEXT BY JENNIFER ALLEN PHOTOS BY JOHN BILDERBACK

46 GUITAR HERO THE DIMINUTIVE ‘UKULELE

Resembling a miniature guitar, the ‘ukulele in four-, six- and eight-string varieties has become a popular instrument among musicians. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

50 BIRDS OF PARADISE DISCOVER HAWAI‘I’S PRECIOUS AVIFAUNA

Hundreds of organizations and millions of people around the world will recognize 2018 as the “Year of the Bird.” BY GINA J. BAILEY

78 ISLAND SONG POETRY IN MOTION

Hula’s evolution as a storytelling art has evolved and prospered over the centuries, securing a sacred place in contemporary Hawaiian culture.

CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENTIALS 10 MAUI MAP ISLAND OVERVIEW

A quick tour of Maui shows the different regions and various points of interest that are not to be missed.

16 FIRST LOOK MUST-SEE SIGHTS WHILE VISITING THE ISLAND

Beyond its award-winning beaches, Maui is home to the Pacific Whale Foundation, Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum and Haleakalā.

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56 ISLAND VIEWS FROM VERDANT VALLEYS TO MOONLIKE CRATERS

Affectionately called the “Valley Isle,” Maui’s landscape is a beauty to behold at every turn, from east to west and north to south.

74 OFF ISLAND NEIGHBOR ISLES

Accessible by a ferry ride, nearby Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i offer serene retreats from the hustle and bustle of resorts.

SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE

Maui’s dining scene is as varied as its people and its restaurants, from regional cuisine and locally made treats to gastropubs and lū‘au dinner shows.

MAUI ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION GROUP PUBLISHER William A. Moore III, 808.955.2378 HAWAI‘I SALES DIRECTOR Leianne Pedro ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Donna Kowalczyk, Nicholas Riopelle INDEPENDENT SALES CONTRACTORS

Debbie De Mello, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR

Simplicio Paragas

ART DIRECTOR Veronica Montesdeoca CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jennifer Allen, Gina Bailey, Summer Nakaishi, Marie Tutko CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER John Bilderback

CIRCULATION & MARKETING MANAGER Sherry Mae Ravago SALES COORDINATOR Alice Gustave ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATOR

Melanie Lee

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP I EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen HEAD OF DIGITAL Richard H. Brashear II REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT, SALES

Courtney Fuhrmann Scott Ferguson

DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MVP I PUBLICATION SERVICES PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Karen Fralick PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER

Cher Wheeler

DIGITAL IMAGING & RETOUCH Erik Lewis

MVP I MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton

E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE: FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@MORRIS.COM

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV

MVP MAUI SALES OFFICE 677 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 700, Honolulu, HI 96813 Phone: 808.955.2378; Fax: 808.955.2379 www.wheretraveler.com Where GuestBook® is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. Where GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Fort Worth, Island of Hawai‘i, Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua‘i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, Northern Arizona, O‘ahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Reno/Lake Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/The Eastside/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tampa Bay, Tucson, Washington D.C. ©2018-2019 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in the United States of America. MVP IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF LES CLEFS D’OR USA

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

NAVIGATE

MAUI, THE SECOND LARGEST of the Hawaiian Islands, was named for the demigod Maui, the superman of

Polynesian myth. He is known as Maui tiki-tiki—Maui the Wonder Worker. The wonders of Maui are many, from the historic town of Lāhainā, once the major whaling center of the Pacific, to the royal resort of Kā‘anapali and the fabulous shopping and dining in West and South Maui. From the summit of Haleakalā to the beaches of Nāpili and Kapalua, from the charming towns of Upcountry to the beautiful curves of the road to Hāna, the Valley Isle offers the visitor much to explore, experience and discover. 10

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MAP: ©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

The Island of Maui

Collection available exclusively at Na Hoku

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry MAUI KAANAPALI: Whalers Village • Hyatt Regency Maui LAHAINA: 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump • 744 Front Street, across from the seawall • Lahaina Cannery WAILEA: The Shops at Wailea, Upper Level • Grand Wailea Resort KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center OAHU • KAUAI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA

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NAVIGATE

Ni‘ihau The “forbidden” island is known for exquisite shell jewelry. Kaua‘i Magnificent sea cliffs and canyons distinguish the Garden Isle. O‘ahu Known for Waikīkī beach, the state capital, shopping, Pearl Harbor and more. Moloka‘i You’ll find Old Hawai‘i charm, mule rides and famous Moloka‘i sweet bread. Lāna‘i Lovely Mānele Bay has posh resorts and pine-studded uplands. Maui Come to the Valley Isle for whale watching, art, Mount Haleakalā and the 54-bridge Hāna Highway. Kaho‘olawe Once a Navy firing range, the island is now dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian culture. Hawai‘i The Island of Hawai‘i (also known as the Big Island) has an active volcano and diverse scenery.

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

MAP: ©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

Hawaiian Islands

FIRST LOOK The surprise of Maui is the diversity of destinations, from cultural centers to secluded retreats and its sister islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i.

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

The Beaches

Maui’s idyllic beaches are naturally one of the island’s main attractions. Scientist Stephen P. Leatherman, famously known as “Dr. Beach,” has named several of Maui’s beaches as “America’s Best,” including Kapalua’s D.T. Fleming Beach, Kā‘anapali Beach, the golden sands of Wailea Beach and Kapalua Bay Beach. Other beaches not to miss are West Maui’s Nāpili Beach—recessed deep into the shoreline, it boasts calm, turquoise waters—and Kīhei’s Kama‘ole Beach Parks in South Maui, which offer fine-grained sand, great swimming and public amenities. Over in East Maui, Wai‘anapanapa State Park (pictured here) is home to dramatic sea caves and a striking black-sand beach while Hamoa Beach, near the Hotel Hāna Maui, is lush and secluded.

Molokini

The 80-degree turquoise waters and exotic marine life around this tiny crescent-shaped islet three miles off the southwest coast of Maui is a snorkeler’s paradise. A sunken crater and marine sanctuary, up to 1,000 visitors venture out to explore its coral reefs everyday to see colorful tropical fish, sea turtles, eels and sea urchins. Molokini’s waters are so crystal clear that visibility is said to extend to depths of more than 100 feet. The best snorkeling is on the inside of the left tip, with a greater variety of fish species the farther you get from the center of the coral-blanketed floor. Molokini’s popularity as a dive destination has compelled the Hawai‘i State Division of Boating to create strict guidelines to offset the damage to the reef from dive boats dropping anchor. Also a Hawai‘i State Seabird Sanctuary, the islet lures both amateur and professional bird-watchers. 18

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(PREVIOUS SPREAD) ©7MICHAEL/ISTOCK; (THIS PAGE) ©DIGITAL94086/ISTOCK

FIRST LOOK

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FIRST LOOK

Mauiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s helicopter tours combine eye-popping visuals with amusement-park-style thrills that take you tantalizingly close to the lip of volcanoes, through valleys and over beaches. Maui has a half-dozen helitour companies, including Sunshine Helicopters (808.871.0722), which offers an array of tour packages and price ranges. For that true fly-like-abird feeling, try power hang gliding. In small one- and two-person rearengine, open-air prop planes, you can fly solo or with an instructor. Hang Gliding Maui (808.264.3287) offers half-hour flights that include a wingmounted camera that will take your picture. A final option is paragliding, essentially a gliding parachute. Proflyght (808.874.5433) offers descents from HaleakalÄ from 3,000 feet, and a less expensive option from 1,000 feet.

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Pacific Whale Foundation

Pacific Whale Foundation has been a pioneer in educational ecotours for 38 years, offering dolphin watch and snorkel trips, sunset dinner and cocktail cruises, stargazing excursions and a host of other ocean adventures—in addition to its award-winning whale-watch tours. The best part is that Pacific Whale Foundation is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to protecting the ocean and marine wildlife through science and advocacy. Your ticket to adventure supports bona fide scientific research on whales and dolphins in Hawai‘i and other parts of the Pacific, including Australia, Chile and Ecuador. Pacific Whale Foundation also provides service opportunities through its Volunteers on Vacation Program. 612 Front St., Lāhainā, and 300 Mā‘alaea Road, 800.942.5311, pacificwhale.org 22

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

COURTESY PACIFIC WHALE FOUNDATION

FIRST LOOK

Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum

‘Iao Needle

The ‘Iao Needle is a 1,200-foot-tall cone of hardened lava at the heart of a 6.2-acre state park just west of Wailuku in Central Maui. The vegetation-shrouded cliffs surrounding the needle are the remains of Pu‘u Kukui, the crater of a dormant volcano. ‘Iao Stream (fed by up to 400 inches of rain per year) cuts through the valley with excellent hiking trails running alongside and throughout the park. It is said that the bones of many chieftains are buried in the vicinity of the needle. Olopio, a cave containing the remains of royal elders, is rumored to be hidden somewhere in the valley. 24

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(FROM TOP) ©DANA EDMUNDS; ©ISAAC ARJONILLA

South of Kahului, across from the last operating sugar plantation in Hawai‘i, lies the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum. Housed in a historic building dating from 1902, the museum features six exhibit rooms exploring the influence of this crop on the island. One of the museum’s highlights is the Field Work Room, examining the lives of immigrant plantation workers through artifacts, letters and photographs. The Mill Room offers several interactive displays, including a 1915 locomotive bell, a “Cuban” sugar mill and a working scale model of cane-crushing machinery. 3957 Hansen Road, 808.871.8058, sugarmuseum.com

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FIRST LOOK

One of Hawai‘i’s biggest attractions is the stunning 10,000-foot-high Haleakalā, the world’s largest dormant volcano. The volcano’s eruptions one million years ago shaped an island filled with natural beauty. Haleakalā’s most magnificent feature is the crater itself: 3,000 feet deep, 2.5 miles across and a circumference of 21 miles. The surrounding Haleakalā National Park encompasses 26,000 acres, including dry forests, rainforests, desert and subtropical beaches. The park is home to endangered flora and fauna, such as the nēnē, a Hawaiian wild goose, and the silversword, a bizarre-looking plant with dense coats of silvery hairs. Watching the sunrise from the Visitor’s Center atop Haleakalā’s summit is an experience that should not be missed. 26

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©MLENNY/ISTOCK

Haleakalā

FIRST LOOK

These terraced cold springs are Hawai‘i’s greatest natural day spa. The discrete bodies of water—recalling a trickle-down champagne fountain—are created by the stream that flows through the ‘Ohe‘o Gulch in Haleakalā National Park as it spills over separate tiers of lava bed, creating up to 24 separate pools. Throughout the day, visitors can be seen jumping down from a waterfall into one of the pools and then swimming over to the edge to do it all again in the next pool. A daybreak or sunset dip in this spring-fed body of water is both surreal and relaxing. Save for a drought two decades ago, these pools, also known as the Seven Sacred Pools, are lately in full possession of their bracing waters to which visitors flock. 28

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Hāna Pools

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Bose® noise-canceling headsets, and two-way communication between you and your pilot, a State of Hawaii Certified Tour Guide. Experience the ultimate in aerial touring with Blue Hawaiian — the world’s most honored helicopter tour company, and the only one that serves all of Hawaii.

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View the astonishing crater of Mt. Haleakala (which means “House of the Sun”), the world’s largest dormant volcano; the entire island of Manhattan could fit inside it.

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NATURAL WONDERS A photographer captures close-up looks of the splendid beauty of Maui. PHOTOS BY ZACH PEZZILLO

(This page and opposite page) Hibiscus

(This page) Beach morning glory (Opposite page, clockwise from top left) Striped dracaena, gold dust day gecko, beach morning glory, tree heliotrope

A flowerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural palette mimics the blazing sunsets of Maui.

(Opposite page) (Thisginger Red page and opposite (This page) page) Rose Hibiscus. Jatropha

(This page) Red ginger (Opposite page) Red spurge

Water is a natural prism, and the leaf its brilliant mirror.

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

Hōkūle‘a turning downwind in the Kaiwi Channel and completing the final leg back to Honolulu.

E OLA MAU ‘O HOKULE‘A LONG LIVE HOKULE‘A After three years circumnavigating the globe, Hōkūle‘a and sister ship Hikianalia successfully return to Hawaiian waters. TEXT BY JENNIFER ALLEN

THE WIND IS QUIET. THE WATERS, STILL. THE ONLY RIPPLES ARE those following children on paddleboards, making large, awestruck circles around the double-hulled sailing canoe, Hōkūle‘a. Lei maile drape the hulls. Ti-leaf garlands hang on the bow. Sails remain wrapped and tied around the masts. In full wind, those sails will billow into a 50-foot spray of crimson, the color of a Hawaiian king’s feathered cloak. Hōkūle‘a has been harbored here in Palekai, a springfed cove near Hilo for nearly a week now. Merchant ships, cargo containers, and petroleum tanks surround this lavarock girded bay. Hōkūle‘a seems like an island unto herself, undaunted, anchored, awaiting the winds to sail. It has been a big-sun day, with a sharp horizon, and no sight of clouds. Her captain is barefoot in blue jeans, adjusting the lines that swing the boom. His name is Charles Nainoa Thompson. He’s known as Nainoa. Nainoa has been navigating Hōkūle‘a for thirty-five years now, more than half his lifetime.

PHOTOS BY JOHN BILDERBACK

“You do not tell the winds what to do,” Nainoa has told his crew. “The winds tell you what to do.” Right now, the winds say, wait. The wait has allowed many things. It has allowed locals to stream into Palekai, dawn to dusk, with offerings. Busloads of school children have come, gifting lei, candied ginger, and poi for the crew. Paddlers have come by outrigger, just to have a look, all sharing the venerable greeting of honi with captain and crew, touching forehead to forehead, nose to nose, breathing in the same breath, sharing hā, sharing spirit. A pastor brought a hand-sewn silk flag that reads, Hae O Ke Aloha—His Love Is The Banner Over Us—to wave alongside the flag of Hawai‘i on the mast. The Hawaiian flag has yet to be raised. It, too, awaits the winds. The wait is teaching patience. Patience is key when you are about to launch on a three-year global voyage. First stop—Tahiti, two wind systems and 2,500 nautical miles away. In sailing to Tahiti, Nainoa will trace the same path WHERE GUEST B OOK

“Eddie had wanted to go to the land of his ancestors, to educate new generations, to bring dignity back to our kūpuna, our ancestors.”

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

Polynesians sailed centuries ago when they explored and settled these islands. Like his forefathers, Nainoa will rely on the wind, moon, swells, birds, fish, and stars as guides. Using traditional wayfinding skills, Hōkūle‘a will be sailed through and eventually beyond Polynesia, crossing the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans, to connect with communities who care for the health of the oceans and our shared island, Earth. The mission is aptly called Mālama Honua—to Care for the Earth. “Caring for the earth is in the traditions of Hawaiian ancestors for the world to use,” Nainoa says of his homelands. “Hōkūle‘a is the needle that collects the flowers that get sewn into a lei by Hawai‘i and gives it to the earth as an act of peace.” This act of peace continues to pour into Palekai even as the sun lowers over the mountains. The limping man with the koa-branch cane, the mother with the baby on her hip wrapped in a sarong, the fisherman steaming oysters, the farmer offering fresh kalo, the woman giving lomilomi massages … they continue to come, paying respects to Hōkūle‘a, the mana, the spirit of the Islands. Hōkūle‘a is the Hawaiian name for Arcturus, the star that sits at the zenith above Hawai‘i. The fisherman opens the oysters and places them onto a tablecloth-covered card table. It is dinnertime, and another captain, this one named Bruce Mealoha Blankenfeld, has just now stepped ashore. Bruce shares hā with the fisherman before diving in, dousing his oyters with chili-lime sauce. He smiles, nods, eats. Island-born and ocean-bred, Bruce has the broad build of a long-distance paddler and the steady gaze of a man who has studied miles of horizons. His palms are wide, worn, and strong from years of building and restoring Hōkūle‘a. From the hulls to decks, crossbeams to booms, his hands have worked and sanded and seamed her into a watertight vessel. Bruce will captain and navigate Hikianalia—just behind

Hōkūle‘a—to Tahiti. Hiki is a hybrid canoe, half-tradition/ half-modern, sailed in the ancient navigational way but with sixteen solar panels that power motors. Hikianalia is the Hawaiian name for Spica, the star that rises alongside Hōkūle‘a in the Hawaiian skies. In the low-lying sun, Hikianalia glides into Palekai. The crew is returning after practicing safety drills through the afternoon. Bruce watches as a crewmember tosses a rope to Nainoa and his crew aboard Hōkūle‘a. They bind the canoes, side-by-side, like sisters together for the night. There will be a hilo—a new moon—tonight. The skies will be dark, the stars, bright. The wind remains unchangingly still. “We just need a little bit of wind,” Bruce says, with a knowing smile. “A bit of wind to give us a good push.” IF YOU ARE LOOKING for the Southern Cross, just ask Nainoa. North Star, Hōkūpa‘a; Sirius, ‘A‘a; or Procyon, Puana: all you have to do is ask. Nainoa can show you where these stars and hundreds more rest in the nighttime sky. He can show you how he measures their movements, using his palm like a sextant along the horizon. He has been “calibrating” his hand for many seasons now, long before he was married and the father of five-year-old twins, Nai‘noa and Puana. “I am old,” he says. But he hardly seems so, with an agile grace that allows him to walk hands-free along the narrow safety rails, the palekana, of the canoe. For Nainoa, wayfinding has become a journey into his ancestral past. “We must now sail in the wake of our ancestors—to find ourselves,” Nainoa says, of the crossing to Tahiti. Hōkūle‘a was originally built with the clear desire to help Hawaiians find their path. By the 1970s, the culture of sailing canoes had “been asleep,” as Bruce likes to say, for over six hundred years. But in 1973, three men founded the Polynesian Voyaging Society—artist and historian Herb Kawainui Kāne, expert

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

(Previous spread, from left) In memory of Eddie Aikau; Pwo navigator Nainoa Thompson; Hōkūle‘a’s lashing to hull. (This spread, from left) Hōkūle‘a out in the open seas.

waterman Tommy Holmes, and anthropologist Ben Finney. They wanted to prove that Polynesians were once master ocean navigators who purposely found and settled the Hawaiian Islands. They wanted to dispel the myth that Polynesians had happened onto Hawai‘i by drifting aimlessly along currents. They wanted to resurrect navigational knowledge and to revive the culture that had been diluted by colonization. Hula was forbidden. Songs of the sea had been translated to suit tourists in Waikīkī. The native language was a whisper. When people lose their dance, songs, and language, they risk losing their history and narratives— a part of their collective soul. The Polynesian Voyaging Society wanted to help Hawaiians rediscover their strength, wisdom, and spirit. The plan was to build a replica of a voyaging canoe and sail her across the trades to Tahiti. They researched the massive double-hulled sailing canoes of eastern Polynesia, designed to transport several thousand pounds of people and goods. They looked to oral, written, and drawn historical records in Hawai‘i—including petroglyphs—to study the shape of the canoe and its sails. From this, they built Hōkūle‘a, a sixty-two-foot long wa‘a kaulua, double-hulled canoe, using plywood, fiberglass, and resin, with twin masts, claw sails, no motor, a sweep as a rudder, and a twenty-foot broad deck, all held together by eight cross beams and five miles of lashings. But to make the passage authentic, they needed to sail without modern navigational instruments. They needed someone to lead them, someone who could, as Bruce explains, “pull us through the curtain of time” so that Hawaiians could relearn what had been known centuries ago. Opening that curtain of time meant traveling to the coral atoll Satawal, in the Central Caroline Islands of Micronesia. There lived Pius ‘Mau’ Piailug, a master navigator known as a Pwo. Only a handful of Micronesians still knew the art of wayfinding, and none, other than Mau, were willing to share it outside their community.

Mau knew a navigational system that modern sailors had never before seen. It was something that Nainoa, then a twenty-three-year-old crewman, yearned to understand. “If you can read the ocean,” Mau would say, “you will never be lost.” Mau could read and discern eight separate patterns of ocean swells. Lying inside the hull, feeling the various waves hitting it, he could know the direction of the winds and the direction to steer the canoe. At dawn, he would study the horizon and predict the weather for the day to come. At dusk, he would predict the weather for dawn. And in the midst of a gale-swept, stormy night, days away from any safe harbor or land, Mau could steady the mind of any novice navigator—he could look the man in the eye, and with an unflinching gaze, tell him, “You are the light, you have the light within you to guide your family home.” Some called it magic. Bruce calls it being maka‘ala—vigilant, observant, awake. In May of 1976, Mau safely guided Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti in thirty-one days. Upon entering the bay of Pape‘ete, the canoe was greeted by more than 17,000 Tahitians, over half the population, welcoming her and her crew … home. Two years later, Hōkūle‘a embarked on another voyage to Tahiti—but without Mau. Both Bruce and Nainoa were on board when she capsized in thirty-foot swells, only hours after her launch out of Ala Wai Harbor in Honolulu. Without an escort boat, the crew sat on upturned hulls from midnight to sunset the following day, lighting flares in hopes that ship or airplane captains might see them. One crewmember, the legendary big-wave rider and lifeguard at Waimea Bay, Eddie Aikau, convinced Captain Dave Lyman to allow him to paddle on a surfboard to find help on Lāna‘i, some fifteen nautical miles away. Nainoa can still see Eddie taking off his life vest in order to freely paddle into a wind so fierce that the salt from the waves was blinding.

“Can you point to the way of Tahiti? Can you see the island? See the vision of the island rising from the sea. If you don’t have a vision, you will be lost.”

WHERE GUEST B OOK

“Hōkūle‘a is the needle that collects the flowers that get sewn into a lei by Hawai‘i and gives it to the earth as an act of peace.”

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The crew was eventually rescued. Eddie was never found. Nainoa understood why Eddie wanted to voyage to Tahiti. Eddie’s passion was not for his own glory but rather a reflection of his reverence for the past and his hope for the future. “Eddie had wanted to go to the land of his ancestors, to educate new generations, to bring dignity back to our kūpuna, our ancestors,” Nainoa remembers. Eddie’s legacy is why the Polynesian Voyaging Society continues to sail today. Eddie is why Bruce volunteered to help rebuild the severely damaged canoe. Eddie is why Nainoa went to Satawal to ask Mau to teach him Polynesian wayfinding. Until a Hawaiian could sail Hōkūle‘a, the quest would not be fulfilled. Nainoa needed to learn the skills of Oceania and then share this knowledge with future generations. Mau knew that a Pwo must pass the wisdom on. He also knew that wayfinding was on the verge of disappearing in his own islands. Mau then asked his own teacher, his grandfather, for permission to share these lessons. His grandfather agreed, reminding Mau that the Hawaiians were, after all, part of the Polynesian family. Positioning stones, shells, and palm fronds in the sand, Mau re-created a star compass for Nainoa. Mau taught him how to identify the stars as they rose up out of the ocean and then dove back in. Mau showed him how to decipher wind systems, how to understand sea birds flying to and away from land, how to interpret clouds. Mau taught him how to study the shape of the ocean and read the “character” in the waves. Mau taught him how to discern the varying widths and hues of the sun’s path along the waves. Mau was teaching him the language of the navigator—what Mau called the “talk of the sea.” Just as the Hawaiian god Maui is said to have fished the Hawaiian Islands out of the ocean, Nainoa would now need to pull Tahiti out of the sea.

In An Ocean in Mind, author Will Kyselka renders the multilayered teachings of Mau and their limitless affect on his student, Nainoa. “Can you point to the way of Tahiti?” Mau asked Nainoa during the last lesson of his two years of study. The teacher and student were observing the sky at Lāna‘i lookout, a coastal perch on the southeastern shore of O‘ahu. Nainoa pointed to the direction of Tahiti. Then Mau asked another question, one that required a deeper knowing. “Can you see the island?” Nainoa couldn’t literally see the island but he could, he told his teacher, see “an image of the island in my mind.” “Good. Keep the island in your mind,” Mau told him, “otherwise you will be lost.” “See the vision of the island rising from the sea,” Mau would often remind Nainoa. “If you don’t have a vision, you will be lost.” In 1980, with Mau on board, Nainoa safely navigated Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti. In doing so, Nainoa became the first Hawaiian to make a noninstrument passage from Hawai‘i to Tahiti since the fourteenth century. Since then, Hōkūle‘a has become the heart of the Hawaiian renaissance and, in the last forty years, she has sailed over 140,000 nautical miles of the vast Pacific, igniting a revival of sailing canoes throughout Polynesia, and igniting a voyaging revival that now includes twenty-eight wa‘a kaulua, voyaging canoes. In 2014, Hōkūle‘a, along with sister ship Hikianalia, set sail for Polynesia, marking the beginning of a three-year voyage that would cover a distance of 45,000 nautical miles. In June 2017, the two wa‘a returned to Hawaiian waters, concluding their “Malama Honua” (Care for the Earth) journey and tying the ends of their “Lei of Hope” around the world. Adapted from Mālama Honua: Hōkūle‘a — A Voyage of Hope (© 2017 Patagonia). Used by permission.

(Opposite page) The rigging for Hōkūle‘a’s mast; (This page, clockwise from top) Homecoming in June 2017; Taievau Maraetaata drapes lei over the bow; hoe uli.

GUITAR HERO ‘Ukulele artists and makers sing praise to the diminutive stringed instrument. TEXT BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

The ‘ukulele is a gift from the Portuguese in the late 19th century called the braguinha, and it has been a standard in the Hawaiian music genre ever since.

PHOTOS BY ISAAC ARJONILLA

During the past two decades, the ‘ukulele has gained much more street credibility and moved light years from Tiny Tim tiptoeing through the tulips, thanks to all the attention that renowned artists have endowed upon the four-string, two-octave mini lute. No musical instrument more quickly conjures Hawai‘i and its famous tropical imagery than the ‘ukulele. Pronounced ooh-koo-leh-leh (not “you-koo-lay-lay”), this four-stringed relative of the guitar is an offshoot of the Portuguese braguinha. Brought to Hawai‘i in 1879 by immigrants from Madeira Island—part of an autonomous archipelago off the coast of Portugal—the little instrument quickly caught on here. Hawai‘i’s king at the time, the well-traveled and sophisticated David Kalākaua, took a liking to the sound of the diminutive string instrument and had it incorporated into performances for the royal court. So rapid was its rise to popularity that within 10 years of its arrival in the Islands, the ‘ukulele became Hawai‘i’s most popular musical instrument. Over the years, the original Portuguese design evolved in Hawai‘i with a look and sound of its own, and the modern ‘ukulele was born.

A one-time custom-furniture builder, Maui resident Michael Rock used to repair his friends’ guitars and ‘ukulele as side jobs in the early 1980s. However, by the ’90s, he started crafting his own ‘ukulele under the Hawaiian Instrument Designs Maui brand. After gaining a reputation as a skilled luthier, Rock was hired by guitar manufacturer RainSong as production manager and was sent to study with Pimentel & Sons guitar makers of New Mexico. “My wife, Cheryl, and I continued to build ‘ukulele nights and weekends when I was home on Maui,” Rock recalls. “Pretty soon, we were selling ‘ukulele through retailers all around Hawai‘i. In 1997, I left RainSong, and Cheryl and I opened the Mele ‘Ukulele retail store.” It takes nimble fingers to play the ‘ukulele well. One story about the origin of its name says the word ‘ukulele, meaning “jumping flea” in Hawaiian, was chosen because the fingers of a quick and dexterous ‘ukulele player appear to be “flying” off of the strings. In the early 20th century, the ‘ukulele gained fame around the world and eventually became an iconic emblem of Hawai‘i, thanks to the Waikīkī Beach Boys and songs by Cliff Edwards (who was WHERE GUEST B OOK

nicknamed “‘Ukulele Ike”) in the 1920s. By the 1960s, millions of ‘ukulele had been sold across the United States. Today, annual ‘ukulele festivals are held in Los Angeles, Portland, New York City and even as far away as Belgium, and vintage ‘ukulele can be found in museums throughout the world. The instruments can vary greatly in quality, appearing as inexpensive, mass-produced toys for children or costing thousands of dollars when made from prized koa wood. Rock’s ‘ukuleles are somewhere in between. “Our main tonewoods are Hawaiian koa and Asian mahogany, but recently we have begun building Mele ‘ukes out of mango wood from Hawai‘i, which is hugely popular for its tone, and also for its unique appearance,” Rock explains. “We use ebony for our fingerboards and bridges, and our necks are made of very strong, stable mahogany.” Common types of ‘ukulele include soprano, concert, tenor and baritone. The 21-inch-long soprano, often called “standard” in Hawai‘i, is the second smallest of its kind (only slightly larger than the rare sopranino, also called piccolo, bambino or “pocket ‘uke”) and was the original size. The concert size (23” long) was developed in the 1920s as an enhanced soprano, slightly larger and louder with a deeper tone. Shortly thereafter, the tenor (26”

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long)—the most popular among professional musicians— was created, having more volume and deeper bass tone. The baritone (28” long) was introduced in the 1940s, and the contrabass and bass are recent innovations, introduced in 2010 and 2014, respectively. “Before even beginning construction, we acquire the various tonewoods and dry and age them for two to 10 years,” Mele ‘Ukulele maker Jesse Mendez explains. “The ‘ukes that are entirely made on Maui get built within a few months, while those we partially assemble overseas can take longer, and they’re shipped to Maui for final assembly.” While other luthiers on Maui create expensive, custom ‘ukulele, Rock’s Mele ‘Ukulele instruments are moderately priced and widely accessible. The latter is important to the company’s mission, which aims “to spread the ‘Joy of ‘Uke’ to everybody, from youngsters to elders.” Having this same goal is the ‘Ukulele Guild of Hawai‘i, a nonprofit organization whose members span across the Hawaiian Islands and the globe with a single common passion: the beloved ‘ukulele. “We share with the public ideas and experiences that have to do with making ‘ukulele because builders who make [them] have made a tremendous contribution to ‘ukulele,” says ‘Ukulele Guild of Hawai‘i president Kimo

(This spread, from far right) Jesse Mendez builds custom-made ‘ukulele for professional musicians and amateurs alike.

Hussey. “They’re making ‘ukulele sound better, look better and easier to play. So one of the things we’ve done in our organization is to promote building high quality ‘ukulele. Some of the builders in our guild are reputed and acknowledged to be among the best in the world.” Count Rock among them. The Boston native first arrived on Maui shortly after the “Hawaiian Renaissance” of the 1970s and ’80s, a period of a renewed interest in Hawaiian language, hula and Hawaiian studies in general. “At the time, Hawaiian music, the ‘ukulele and Hawaiian culture in general were experiencing an unprecedented revival in prestige and popularity, which continues to this day,” Rock says. “The ‘ukulele will continue to be popular worldwide, as it gets featured in movies and on recordings. The current craze may settle down a bit, but there’s no end in sight.” Hussey agrees, adding that the ‘ukulele is still in the midst of its “very, very strong worldwide renaissance.” “Because of the various travels of our people around the world with regard to the ‘ukulele,” he says, “we’ve come to know, experience and believe that the most important thing that people enjoy about the ‘ukulele is the idea of participating in the process of making music for fun. From that standpoint, ‘ukulele is a very social instrument.”

WHERE GUEST B OOK

BIRDS OF PARADISE Protecting Hawai‘i’s precious avifauna. TEXT BY GINA J. BAILEY

(Previous spread) A black-crowned night heron; Keālia Pond National Wildlife Refuge. (This page, clockwise from top) nēnē; a honeycreeper; and a coot.

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We see them around us. We hear their songs and whistles. And, in Hawai‘i, we revere our avifauna for their beauty and rarity. This year marks the centennial of the Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA), the most powerful and important bird-protection law ever passed. In honor of this milestone, National Geographic, the National Audubon Society, the Cornell Lab of Ornithology and BirdLife International will collaborate with more than 100 other organizations and millions of people around the world to celebrate 2018 as the “Year of the Bird.” “We need to continue to protect and preserve our endangered species,” says Jack Jeffrey, who was the first biologist for the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge on Hawai‘i Island. “Since I moved here in the ’70s, I’ve seen eight bird species go extinct, and many more are critically endangered.” Signed into law in 1918, the MBTA is among the oldest wildlife protection laws on the books. Its creation was one of the National Audubon Society’s first major victories, and in the years since its enactment, the MBTA has saved millions, if not billions, of birds. Yet, despite its importance in the history of the conservation movement, many people may not truly know what the MBTA is, what it protects nor what types of activities fall under the law. Stated most simply, the MBTA is a statute that protects endangered birds from people. When Congress passed the MBTA in 1918, it codified a treaty already signed with Canada (then part of Great Britain) in response to the extinction or near-extinction of a number of bird species, many of which were hunted either for sport or for their feathers. Birds, along with plants and insects, first came to Hawai‘i on their own, with a new species able to evolve every 20,000 years to 40,000 years. These few surviving birds adapted to their environment and became better suited to thrive in their new island home. Recent DNA evidence shows a single colonization of a finch-like bird from Asia as the parent of Hawaiian honeycreepers. This original bird came to Hawai‘i five to six million years ago

and, over time, developed into a unique subfamily of birds with more than 60 species. Hawai‘i’s indigenous birds—those who got here on their own but are also spotted elsewhere—can be found at all elevations. Most of these natives, like the blackcrowned night heron, Nycticorax nycticorax, live here year-round. Found worldwide, this bird is locally called a “fish hawk,” since it hunts near seaside ponds, aquaculture farms and streams. Birds who migrated here on their own and evolved to be different than any other species on the planet are Hawai‘i’s endemic birds. They live only in Hawai‘i and possess Hawaiian names. Perhaps the most well known is Hawai‘i’s endangered state bird: the nēnē, Branta sandvicensis. Measuring between 24 inches and 27 inches in length, the nēnē has a black head and bill, buff cheeks, a neck with dark furrows and partially webbed black feet. Its vocalizations are similar to those of the Canadian goose but also give a low murmuring “nay” or “nay-nay” call—hence its name. Nēnē, which also live at varying altitudes, are now growing in numbers. This endangered species is given broad protection under law to recover to a self-sustaining population. They are thought to have made landfall in the Hawaiian Islands some 890,000 years ago, and the population grew to an estimated 25,000 geese. About 1,000 years ago, nēnē began a steep decline. “The bird’s plight had become so grave by 1949 (20 to 30 birds in the wild), that a captive propagation program was initiated,” says Dr. Steven Hess, U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) wildlife biologist stationed at the Pacific Island Ecosystems Research Center at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Hess credits “decades of captive breeding, releases into the wild, habitat management and predator control” with restoring 900 nēnē to Hawai‘i Island, and 2,000 statewide, with the rest on Maui, Moloka‘i and Kaua‘i. Hawai‘i’s endemic forest birds are far more elusive, living only in the upper mountain forests where preferred native plants still thrive and where colder tempera-

“We need to continue to protect and preserve our endangered species. Since I moved here in the ’70s, I’ve seen eight bird species go extinct, and many more are critically endangered.”

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a 56-square-mile watershed from the West Maui Mountains. The 691-acre site includes a large open pond, tidal mudflats, a boardwalk with interpretative signs and a visitor center with engaging, interactive displays. It’s best to visit in the early morning when birds are more active and before the wind strengthens. The refuge was created to protect two species in particular: Hawaiian stilts or ae‘o (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni) and Hawaiian coots or ‘alae ke’oke’o (Fulica alai). During spring and summer when water levels recede, the refuge may harbor almost half the entire population of Hawaiian stilts. Hawaiian coot numbers peak when water levels are higher. The Hawaiian duck or koloa maoli (Anas wyvilliana) was reintroduced to Maui in the 1980s but hybridization with feral mallards has occurred and is a continuing problem. Most koloa-like ducks in the pond are probably hybrids but they can be difficult to distinguish. “Public awareness is the greatest asset to Hawai‘i’s imperiled species,” Jeffrey asserts. “I feel that I’m doing my best to ensure that Hawai‘i’s people and visitors from around the world will continue to have opportunities to enjoy these colorful forest treasures for many generations to come.”

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(This page) A Hawaiian stilt wades in a shallow pond. The rare ‘amakihi, an endemic honeycreeper, perches on a branch.

tures deter disease-carrying mosquitoes. Located high above the coastline resorts in the West Maui mountains, Kapunakea Preserve is home to such native Hawaiian honeycreepers as the crimson ‘apapane, Himatione sanguinea; the greenish-yellow Hawai‘i ‘amakihi, virens; and the scarlet, curved-beak ‘i‘iwi, Vestiaria coccinea. Listed as an endangered species in 1967 under the Federal Endangered Species Act, the ‘akiapōlā‘au, Hemingnathus munroi, is a highly specialized Hawaiian honeycreeper, meaning it only feeds on one kind of insect (wood-boring larvae) from one type of tree. And it can only be found in the isolated, high elevation ‘ōhi‘a-koa forests on Hawai‘i Island. “These birds are very famous for their specialized bills, which have a long, decurved upper mandible and a short woodpecker-like lower mandible,” explains Jeffrey of the ‘akiapōlā‘au. “Parenting fledglings takes up to a year, since it takes time for them to learn how to skillfully use their bills.” Located along the south-central coast, between the towns of Kīhei and Mā‘alaea, Keālia Pond National Wildlife Refuge is one of the few natural wetlands remaining in the Hawaiian Islands and an ideal spot for birdwatching. The refuge is a natural basin for

ISLAND VIEWS Maui is a diverse group of destinations, each sounding exotic and each living up to its impeccable reputation. Explore such areas as Wailea and MÄ kena, or take a leisurely drive to the old cowboy town of Makawao.

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Kapalua

Surrounded by the protected West Maui rainforest, Kapalua Resort is nestled between two prominent sanctuaries: Pu‘u Kukui Watershed Preserve, at the summit of the West Maui Mountains, and HonoluaMokulē‘ia Bay Marine Life Conservation District, the shoreline jewel of the 22,000-acre resort. The resort honors its plantation heritage by encouraging a sense of wellness and environmental sustainability.

Mākena

Mākena boasts some of the most diverse and rugged terrain on the island. The area’s Little Beach and Big Beach—known jointly as Mākena Beach—are popular among swimmers and sun worshippers. The beaches are divided by Pu‘u Ola‘i, a cinder cone with a challenging hiking trail that leads to its summit. Mākena Landing is a popular snorkeling and launching spot for kayaking. Scuba divers are encouraged to visit Five Graves/Five Caves, where they can explore the elusive “bubble cave.”

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Wailuku

Tucked into the foothills of the West Maui Mountains, Wailuku is the island’s municipal center and boasts a gorgeous landscape of lush vegetation, exotic botanicals and postcard-perfect settings. Situated among the streams of the Nā Wai ‘Ehā (four waters) and the lo‘i (irrigated terraces), Wailuku is also the island’s center of kalo (taro in English) cultivation—the main ingredient in poi—and the site of the Maui Tropical Plantation, a 60-acre sugarcane field and home to the famous restaurant The Mill House.

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Kahului

Kahului is Maui’s busiest port and most populous metro area. This workaday town of some 20,000 people is usually the first city visitors to Maui see after touching down at nearby Kahului Airport. Kahului contains worthwhile attractions, including the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, one of the island’s premier venues for concerts, art exhibitions and resources for Polynesian culture, and the Maui Nui Botanical Gardens.

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This unpretentious South Maui town draws locals and visitors to its beaches. Some of north Kīhei’s beaches are not ideal for swimming, but the brisk winds off Mai Poina ‘Oe la‘u Beach nevertheless draw windsurfers and kiteboarders. There is superb swimming from Charley Young Beach all the way down to Keawakapu Beach, and the snorkeling is especially great along the reef between Kama‘ole Beach Parks II and III. Other Kīhei attractions include the Pacific Whale Foundation’s marine resource center and whalewatching in the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary.

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With its paniolo (cowboy) heritage, renowned galleries and charming vintage storefronts, Makawao is every traveler’s dream. And it’s not just for travelers. Island residents come from all over the Islands to shop, dine and explore. They know that towns like Makawao are cherished reminders of a bygone Hawai‘i in which a hardy, rural lifestyle prevailed. Makawao’s main thoroughfare, Baldwin Avenue, runs through town, past chic bistros, popular health-food stores, art galleries and boutiques.

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Wailea

This popular South Maui destination is a land of luxurious resorts, manicured golf courses, upscale retail, fine dining and, one can confidently say, the island’s best beaches. Here, expanses of immaculate golden sand, azure waters and lazily swaying palm trees are the stuff of those proverbial “get-away-from-it-all” dreams. Mokapu, Ulua, Wailea and Polo beaches offer prime snorkeling, swimming and unrivaled views of the neighboring islands of Lāna‘i, Kaho‘olawe and Molokini islet.

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Hāna

Isolated from the rest of the island, Hāna is an undeveloped tropical enclave on the east end of Maui. You’ll find some of the island’s most striking beaches here: the black-sand beach of Wai‘anapanapa State Park, the red sands at Kaihalulu, and Hāmoa Beach, which, author James Michener wrote, resembled beaches he had seen in the South Pacific. You’ll see the largest heiau (ancient Hawaiian temple) in the Pacific region at Kahanu Garden, the resting place of aviator Charles Lindbergh in Kīpahulu, and made-on-Maui products at the famous Hasegawa General Store, a more than century-old family business.

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Lāhainā

The most frequently visited spot on the island, Lāhainā was once the capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i and the international center of whaling. Today, it’s renowned for its fun-loving seaside attractions of restaurants, galleries and hideaway cafés. Its main draw is Front Street, a maze of quirky, carefree haunts that includes galleries, souvenir shops, Lāhainā Harbor and such historic sites as the Old Lāhainā Courthouse on Wharf Street. Built from coral that once housed King Kamehameha III, the courthouse is shaded by the island’s oldest and largest banyan tree, planted in 1873. You can see more of these multi-trunked wonders in nearby Banyan Tree Park.

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A world away from Maui’s sandy beach resorts, this part of the island reflects its agricultural and paniolo (cowboy) roots. Kula is a welcome sprawl of green clinging to the slopes of Haleakalā, a balm for the spirit on the journey to the uplands. Flower and fruit farms offer tours, while farmers sell their freshly harvested produce at colorful roadside stands. In the upper reaches, a lavender farm welcomes visitors for tours, workshops and special brunches at the edge of the Polipoli forest. A drive through Olinda takes you to the rural heart of Upcountry, along remote country roads that wind among pastures and farms.

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In the 1960s, as developers built West Maui resorts to rival Waikīkī’s, Kā‘anapali experienced a surge of popularity. It’s easy to see why this former sugar plantation was chosen: its beaches. At the north end, Kahekili Beach is great for snorkeling. Along the length of the resort, Kā‘anapali Beach is lined with swank hotels and the Kā‘anapali Historical Trail, which starts at the Royal Lāhainā Resort and includes various points of interest. One of Kā‘anapali’s signature attractions is Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock).

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OFF ISLAND Separated by the ‘Au‘au Channel, Maui, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i are known as Maui Nui (Maui County). Although Maui is the most recognized of the three, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i each has its own unique appeal and attractions.

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At the southwestern tip of LÄ naâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i, the cliffs of Kaholo dramatically rise from the depths of the ocean.

Moloka‘i

To experience what Hawai‘i might have been like in a bygone era, set your sights on Moloka‘i. It’s a reward for serenity-seeking travelers, a place to unwind away from the rigors of urban life. On Moloka‘i, where the coconut trees tower over the buildings, you could actually be alone on a golden-sand beach. A two-mile highway traverses the island, and when passing through rustic Kaunakakai, the island’s main town, residents will wave as you pass by. That’s aloha: No wonder Moloka‘i is nicknamed “The Friendly Isle.”

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OFF ISLAND

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Lāna‘i

If you look carefully from the busy shores of Lāhainā, you might glimpse the misty summit of an ancient volcano rising out of the sea. The island of Lāna‘i, third smallest in the Hawaiian chain, is bordered by 1,000-foot sea cliffs and populated by spotted deer, bighorn sheep, Rio Grande turkeys and a spectacular variety of rare flora and fauna. It is the place to visit if you want to veer off the beaten track. Even getting to Lāna‘i is an adventure. Book your passage on Trilogy or Expeditions, the U.S. Coast Guard-certified vessel.

WHERE GUEST B OOK

Hula is aloha in action. It encompasses a great deal of life. It’s philosophical. It’s melodious. It’s history. It’s mythology. It’s a way of being happy. It’s something that is very vital in the society. It’s something that penetrates the very roots of the society. Author Paul Theroux in Smithsonianmag.com

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DINING IN PARADISE CONTENTS

D8 DAILY SCOOP SWEET SENSATIONS Stay cool with an assortment of refreshing frozen treats. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

D12 POI TO THE WORLD HAWAIIAN STAPLE DISH Kalo, or taro in English, is the main source for the pale purple paste. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

D16 FEAST FOR THE EYES A LOCAL CELEBRATION A traditional Hawaiian lū‘au combines food, hula and mele. BY SUMMER NAKAISHI AND MARIE TUTKO

D22 DINING GUIDE

G U I D E TO LO C A L C U I S I N E

Maui

2018 – 2019

DAILY SCOOP FEAST FOR THE EYES POI TO THE WORLD

D INING IN PARAD IS E

ON THE COVER

A staple in local cuisine and at lū‘au, poke (pronounced PO-kay) can be composed of any type of bite-size seafood. (©Steve Czerniak)

COURTESY ISLAND CREAM CO.

RESTAURANT LISTINGS Discover an international array of cuisines around the island.

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D INING IN PARAD IS E

DAILY SCOOP Stay cool with these sweet frozen treats. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

PHOTOS BY ISAAC ARJONILLA

We know that Alexander the Great enjoyed snow and ice flavored with honey and nectar. And history tells us that during the 11th century, the Arabs developed shrb, “sugar syrup,” a base for making fruit sorbets, medical herbs, spices and flowers. However, when it comes to sweet, cool pleasures, Dan Blessing, Cindy Tasaka-Ing and Nicol Bradley literally and figuratively have the inside scoop. While their choice of icy treats varies, each of their preferences refreshes the palate on a hot Maui day—or any day for that matter.

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(ABOVE) COURTESY ISLAND CREAM CO.

Cream of the Crop Upon completion of a three-week course in how to make gelato in Italy, Dan Blessing walked away with a new idea: develop a hybrid between gelato and ice cream, and name it Island Cream. “I have a science background and I realized that the chemistry in some of the ingredients they were using was wrong. It may be a traditional recipe but it doesn’t mean it’s right.” After trying to establish his first shop for months in St. Augustine, Fla., the 56-year-old entrepreneur decided to open one on Maui instead. “Within a week, we found a location and a home,” Blessing says. “This is now our fourth year and we just exploded. We’re definitely thinking of expansion.” Located at the Lāhainā Gateway Center, Island Cream Co. offers a rotating menu of what Blessing describes as “more than 150 crazy blends … and counting.” “Everything is handmade, from our chocolate cake to cookies, and we use local ingredients whenever possible,” Blessing explains. “It’s very labor intensive and we take more of a scientific approach.” Among the more popular flavors is the Maui Loco, which starts with a

special cream base that’s blended with dulce de leche, coconut, macadamia nuts and chocolate chips, and served in a homemade cone with a Pirouline stick for dipping. Other unique flavors include Kaua‘i Karmel with roasted pecans, Maui French Toast, Lāhainā Cream, Hilo Hot Chocolate and Hāna Carmel Popcorn. Blessing has also invented the Glacier Ice Station, which is what he calls “The Ultimate Shave Ice Experience,” a tap-like system that allows guests to build their own cold concoction. Top your mound of shave ice with such syrups as French vanilla, root beer, guava, watermelon, coconut, pineapple, raspberry and, a crowd favorite, tropical heat. “We want to bring excellence to every recipe,” Blessing says. “We want every flavor to be the best you have ever had. We like to say ‘We Make Cravings’ because we believe we do.” Lāhainā Gateway Center, 305 Keawe St., 808.298.0916, islandcreamco.com

(Opposite page) Ono Gelato Company offers a variety of flavors. (This page) Island Cream Co.’s hybrid treat can be served in a cup or homemade waffle cone.

Oh Goody, Goody I imagine the family’s secret recipe scrawled on a piece of paper that’s now yellowed through time and probably

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(This page, clockwise from left) Cindy TasakaIng holds out a cup of the strawberry guri guri; a rainbow of colors and flavors at Ono Gelato.

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hidden in a corroded metal lock box. It has been more than six decades since the late Gunji Tasaka introduced the hybrid sherbet-sorbet-ice cream-ish treat to Maui residents. And today, it’s still the same recipe and the same two flavors: pineapple and strawberry. “We don’t like change,” chuckles Cindy Tasaka-Ing, the fourth generation family member to work at this quaint mom-and-pop shop in Kahului. “It’s also easier this way since people don’t have to decide which flavor they want; it’s either pineapple or strawberry.” When Gunji Tasaka’s father, Jokichi Tasaka, first opened the shop in the early 1900s, he sold mostly confections, such as chi chi dango, senbei, mochi and yōkan (a

chilled Japanese red bean jelly with chestnut). However, once the younger Tasaka introduced and perfected his recipe for guri guri, sales for all other goods waned and the shop became widely known as Tasaka Guri Guri rather than by its original name of Tasaka Confectionary Store. “My dad (Henry Tasaka) and uncle Setsuo continued to focus on the guri guri,” recalls daughter Tasaka-Ing. “They didn’t like change, either. My dad always joked that he and my uncle weren’t nearly smart enough to make more flavors.” As the fourth generation Tasaka to work at the eponymous Guri Guri shop in Kahului, Tasaka-Ing, along with her sister Gail Saito, hold the heavily guarded secret to the hybrid

cold, creamy-like ice cream. Her dad’s father invented the Japanese recipe, which is a dairy-based treat that Tasaka-Ing describes as “not quite as heavy as ice cream but not as icy as shave ice.” Once asked by the LA Times if it could publish the family recipe, the late Henry Tasaka rebuffed the idea, commenting that he couldn’t do something like that because then everybody else would be doing the same, adding that it was more or less a family secret, so forget it. “We’re still an old-school operation,” says Tasaka-Ing, whose first job at the shop was placing the wooden spoons in the cup. “We have no computer. We don’t have a website. It’s still a family operation in a casual laidback atmosphere.” The Tasakas produce and sell about 40 gallons a day, not counting the takeout orders popular with interisland travelers. (Quart-sized tubs packed in foil and newspaper will remain firm for up to three hours.) And if you’re wondering how the family came up with the name “Guri-guri,” Henry Tasaka said it was a made-up name that stuck because when the local patrons had trouble pronouncing the original name of “Goody-goody,” it sounded like guri guri. Maui Mall, 70 East Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 808.871.4513 That’s Amore Call it love at first taste. When Nicol Bradley had her first scoop of gelato while she was an exchange student in Dusseldorf, Germany, she was hooked. So when she got the opportunity to go into the food business, it was a no-brainer to open Ono Gelato Company in Kīhei. “All I ever have wanted to do was to go into the food business,” Bradley says. “My mom gave me my first cookbook when I was 5 years old, and I was off and running.”

Today, Bradley and her husband, James Bradley, operate a successful Ono Gelato Company in Kīhei. They make fresh gelato, adhering to the same traditional techniques developed by Italian gelataio—the name for the person who makes the frozen treat. And they start with whole milk, not cream or eggs. “To be classified as ice cream in America, your product must have a minimum of 10 percent butterfat,” Nicol Bradley points out. “Our whole milk gelato is only about four percent to six percent butterfat, which produces a lower-fat dessert.” In the rear of the shop, a gelato machine slowly churns the base product at a slow pace, which works less air into the product and thus making it denser yet creamier. “We use stabilizers and flavorings imported from Italy and combine them with locally sourced Hawai‘i ingredients,” Nicol Bradley explains. “For example, we purchase, when in season, about one thousand pounds of lilikoi from Hawai‘i farmers to ensure we always have fresh lilikoi on hand.” Aside from the traditional flavors of French vanilla, triple chocolate, salted caramel and hazelnut, “Island Favorites” include the Maui Coffee Crunch, coffee gelato folded with local macadamia nuts, cocoa nibs and semisweet chocolate chips; and Ono Sandy Beach, a peanut butter gelato flavored with shredded coconut, graham crackers and black lava salt. Unique to the Bradley’s Ono Gelato stores are the Hawaiian Hottie, a chocolate gelato infused with cinnamon and Hawaiian chili pepper; and For Goodness Cake, cake batter gelato mixed with cake crumbles and sprinkles. “We follow traditional Italian gelato methods for production,” Nicol Bradley says, “so our gelato is comparable to what you would find in Italy.” Kukui Mall, 1819 South Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, onogelatokihei.com

“We use stabilizers and flavorings imported from Italy and combine them with locally sourced Hawai‘i ingredients. For example, we purchase, when in season, about one thousand pounds of lilikoi.”

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POI TO THE WORLD The native Hawaiian dish is prepared from a root vegetable, which is associated with the legend of HÄ loa. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS PHOTOS BY ISAAC ARJONILLA

‘A‘ohe ‘ina ‘I komo ‘ole o ka ai. There is no meat that doesn’t taste good with poi. —Hawaiian Proverb

Dressed in camouflage cargo pants and a grey T-shirt, Bobby Pahia’s hands are stained with soil from harvesting kalo (or taro in English). For the past 30 years, the Maui farmer has been gently pulling the thick stalk at his Hoaloha Farms, selling the round, hefty, edible corm for a bargain $2 per pound. “Why do we sell kalo at $2 a pound?” Pahia rhetorically asks. “Because my whole mission is to get taro and poi back on people’s tables. Right now today, it’s a luxury item. We don’t get to eat it unless it’s a special occasion like a lū‘au or party. But before, it was always found on everyone’s kitchen table. Everyone had a big bowl of poi.” In Hawai‘i, there are several foods that all visitors should try. One is poi, the pale purple paste that is the result of pounding the root of the taro. A root vegetable, taro is often seen in large paddies, with sturdy stems standing two to three feet tall and supporting large, heart-shaped leaves. It’s what covers about 80 acres of Pahia’s 310acre farm. Every part of the taro plant has a use: the root is pounded into poi; leaves are wrapped around pork, fish or chicken and steamed to make a flavorful dish called lau lau; stems are used to flavor stews. Entire civilizations throughout the Pacific thrived on this food source, which is said to be one of the earliest cultivated plants in history. One cannot overstate the importance of taro in Native Hawaiian culture and mo‘olelo (oral histories). The

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A root vegetable, taro possesses sturdy stems, which stand at two to three feet tall and help support large, heartshaped leaves.

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legend of Hāloa is the story of the very first Native Hawaiian, who was born from a kalo or taro root. Thought to have birthed a stillborn, Wākea (Sky Father) and the Daughter of Mother Earth, Ho‘ohōkūlani, buried their premature son, Hāloanakalaukapalili (quivering long stalk) in a spot that Ho‘ohōkūlani could tend to each day. She kept the area clean and free of all weeds and animals, and stirred the mud as if she were tucking Hāloanakalaukapalili in to sleep. As her tears watered the burial sight, a green leaf poked through and slowly grew into a handsome kalo plant. Delighted by their new blessing, Ho‘ohōkūlani birthed another son and, in honor of their firstborn, named him Hāloa, who was strong and healthy. Wākea and Ho‘ohōkūlani told Hāloa that, unlike the normal duties of a younger brother, he needed to take care and watch over his older brother. Hāloa obeyed and tended to Hāloanakalaukapalili and the kalo soon began to grow in abundance. By his hands, the land became fertile and rich in medicinal leaves and nutri-

tious kalo. Hāloa would then go on to forever care for his older brother and the land that provided for him. Like the story of Hāloa, Native Hawaiian history is richly embedded in its soil. Respect for the ‘āina (land) came first before any decisions were made within the ahupua‘a (land divisions). The connection to nature and the fruits of its labor were considered honors—not expectations. “Another one of my missions is to build biology back in the soil,” says Pahia, who moved to Maui in 1986 to work for the University of Hawai‘i’s College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources. “We want to make the taro industry sustainable and affordable.” Poi can be an acquired taste—it is bland, and some don’t appreciate its texture. Learning to love the flavor, though, pays off. Pahia attests that it’s “one of the healthiest foods you can eat on the planet.” Dr. Terry Shintani, author of the hit nutrition book “Eat More, Weigh Less,” agrees. He extols the many wonderful qualities of poi as a natural, whole food. In fact, he has

made poi a centerpiece of a program to help native Hawaiians and others overcome obesity, diabetes and heart disease by returning to traditional Hawaiian foods. There are countless examples of poi saving the dietary day: Babies allergic to milk, for instance, can often take poi quite well. They can be fed diluted poi at a very young age, and it’s said to help them to sleep soundly through the night. Poi is also used by outrigger canoe paddlers to carbo-load, Hawaiian-style, before a long-distance race. Dr. Shintani studied the effects of eating a poi-rich ancient Hawaiian diet. The subjects swapped bread, pasta, and potatoes, all starches, for poi and sweet potatoes. Cholesterol levels dropped by 14.1 percent and, on average, 17 pounds were shed. These are compelling findings. Poi’s health benefits begin with its low glycemic (sugar in the blood) index. High glycemic foods are linked to all sorts of

ailments, the most common being diabetes and obesity. Foods like poi, with only one percent fat, lots of fiber and very little sugar, allow you to fill your belly but not overdose on sugar. “What’s really good,” continues Shintani, “is that they don’t process things out of it. The whole taro root is there.” Indeed, poi meshes nicely with the initiative to eat food that’s not overly processed. Increasingly, people are opting out of eating products that are too many steps away from nature. We’re jettisoning those foods that make us overweight, sap our energy and simply don’t make sense. Most agree that the desire to go back to a healthier way of eating is a good thing, but it’s not always easy to find simple, natural foods beyond the fresh produce aisle. Pahia is hoping to change all that. “My wife, son and brother all grow kalo,” he says. “We want to make poi commonplace. Anyone can grow it.”

Bobby Pahia devotes 80 acres of his farm to kalo, which is a Polynesian staple. Harvesting is always done by hand and by gently pulling out the corm (pictured above).

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FEAST FOR THE EYES A lū‘au is a celebration of food, hula and mele.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU

BY SUMMER NAKAISHI & MARIE TUTKO

Ancient Hawaiians marked special occasions and important religious ceremonies with community-wide feasts, called an ‘aha ‘āina, where everyone gathered to celebrate a successful harvest, birth of a new baby, or to pay homage to a revered deity. After Western contact, the word lū‘au (the name for the leaves of the taro plant, which is incorporated into many Hawaiian dishes) became associated with this fête, in the era when famous authors Robert Louis Stevenson and Mark Twain were in

the Islands. And over the years, as Hawai‘i grew into a tourist mecca and the lū‘au eventually went commercial, this traditional feast evolved into a spectacle, which deviated quite drastically from its Hawaiian origins. For instance, the entertainment lineup at a typical modern lū‘au barely had any performances of the hula, an art form indigenous to Hawai‘i. Instead, dances hailing from island nations in the South Pacific—which are thousands of miles away from Hawai‘i—such as the Samoan fire-

Old Lāhainā Lū‘au is one of Maui’s top visitor attractions, which has won local and national praise for its authentic presentation of hula, music and traditional Hawaiian cuisine.

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In ancient Hawai‘i, the kapu (taboo) system was the backbone of Hawaiian society and established rules of living in harmony with the land. By 1819, encouraged by his mother Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu (the appointed high regent), King Kamehameha II overthrew the kapu system, which would forever alter the fabric of Hawaiian society. Missionaries arrived on the Islands’ shores soon after and influenced Hawaiians’ control over land, tradition and political power over the next 70 years. In the late 1800s, King Kalākaua restored old Hawaiian customs, bringing mythology, medicine and chant back to life. Known as the Merrie Monarch, for his love of the arts, Kalākaua revived hula, which may have vanished into oblivion when Kamehameha II abolished the kapu system. For his 50th birthday, Kalākaua hosted a two-week celebration, including a parade and public feast, inviting dancers and chanters to once again perform. But it

PHOTOS COURTESY OF OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU

More accurately, a lū‘au is an ‘aha ‘āina, a community-wide feast that celebrates a special occasion. Aside from hula and song, a buffet of Hawaiian fare is the centerpiece to the party.

knife dance and the hip-shaking of the Tahitian ‘ōte‘a, took centerstage. Menus leaned toward continental American fare and such Asian dishes as chicken teriyaki. The foods, traditions and customs of Hawai‘i’s native culture actually took a backseat at a standard lū‘au—an event which was ironically supposed to share the Hawaiian concept of aloha with visitors. “Most of the hotel lū‘au were not very respectful of hula and often made fun of the food,” says Michael Moore, co-founder of Old Lāhainā Lū‘au. He adds that it was commonplace back then for visitors to attend a lū‘au and be told that poi, the staple starch for native Hawaiians (pounded from the root of the taro plant) tasted like wallpaper paste. “And while poi may be an acquired taste, it is the staple of the Hawaiian diet, and its source, kalo (taro) is man’s brother [to native Hawaiians] and a very significant part of the Hawaiian cultural tradition and lore,” Moore explains.

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the Islands as hula girls and ‘ukulele became iconic images of Hawai‘i. Along with colleagues in the industry who shared his sentiments about how the lū‘au became ridden with clichés, Moore felt this void in the visitor industry could be filled with an attraction that accurately, and respectfully, depicted Hawaiian culture—yet [still] draw visitors and make a profit. “We all felt it was unfortunate that there was no venue specifically dedicated to presenting traditional Hawaiian hula. It seemed like such an obvious thing to us.” In its early days, the Old Lāhainā Lū‘au was staged just three days a

PHOTO COURTESY OF OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU

Hula’s evolution as a rhythmic and poetic storytelling art has developed and prospered over the centuries, securing a powerful place in contemporary Hawaiian culture.

wasn’t until 1856 when the Pacific Commercial Advertiser began using the term “lū‘au” to reference large dinner parties. “They went to the party and had a good time,” quips Hawaiian kahuna (priest) Wendall Kalanikapuaenui Silva, referring to those who were invited from the Honolulu newspaper. “When they saw lū‘au, they said ‘oh, OK, we went to a lū‘au,’ and they associated lū‘au with this feast.” The modern lū‘au gained notoriety in the 1950s when ocean liners began bringing in tourists who were eager to learn island customs. Commercial Hawaiian lū‘au began popping up across

centerstage, guests are treated to a show that celebrates the art of the Hawaiian hula in its various existing forms, from the dance’s origins and the styles that have evolved after Western contact. The riveting kahiko (ancient hula) and elegant ‘auana (modern hula) performances incorporates troupes of skilled dancers with several costume changes and features Hawaiian chanting and musicians playing traditional instruments. Moore says the show “presents hula as it was meant to be performed— with love and reference.” While authenticity is emphasized, the atmosphere at Old Lāhainā Lū‘au definitely is festive, with the availability of endless mai tais, fresh flower lei greetings, fun hands-on Hawaiian crafts and games, and torches lit up at night around the property—it is supposed to be a celebration, after all. “We want everyone to feel they are at a Hawaiian party and not strictly a lesson in history or cultural ‘correctness’,” Moore emphasizes. “But if we can incorporate information and mana’o (knowledge) into the program, that’s all the better.

“We want everyone to feel they are at a Hawaiian party and not strictly a lesson in history. But if we can incorporate information and mana’o (knowledge) into the program, that’s all the better.”

PHOTO COURTESY OF OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU

week and served about 100 visitors at a time. Today the lū‘au is one of Maui’s top visitor attractions and has received praise from Zagat, The New York Times and independent travel guidebooks, as well as numerous awards and accolades for its cultural authenticity. One of the attraction’s draws, aside from its intimate, picturesque location, and hula show, is the quality of the food. The ample buffet line at Old Lāhainā Lū‘au is a refreshing ode to traditional Hawaiian food. Mounds of poke, made with fresh, raw ‘ahi (yellow fin tuna) and tako (octopus), juicy kalua pig (pork baked in an underground pit) and laulau (pork and fish steamed in taro leaves) just beg to be piled onto one’s plate. Some freshly made poi, a salad made from pohole ferns and taro leaves cooked in coconut milk would make any Islander salivate. While there are items on the menu that visitors might be more familiar with, as well as some fusion dishes that are popular in local cuisine, every guest is given the opportunity to at least try some authentic native Hawaiian dishes. After feasting at a table or sitting on traditional lauhala mats near the

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RESTAURANT GUIDE KĀ‘ANAPALI

Hula Grill Kā‘anapali Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Hwy. 808.667.6636 Pacific Rim L,D,C/E Island Vintage Coffee Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. 808.868.4081 American B,L Legends of Kā‘anapali Lū’au Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. 808.667.0128 Mondays only

Pailolo Bar & Grill The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 6 Kai Ala Dr. 808.667.3200 American B,L,D,C,B/W

Teppan-Yaki Dan Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. 808.921.4600 Japanese D,C

Pulehu The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 6 Kai Ala Dr. 808.667.3200 Italian D,B/W

Tiki Terrace Restaurant Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. 808.667.0124 Hawai‘i Regional B,Br,D,C/E

Relish Burger Bistro The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. 808.667.2525 Pacific Rim D,C

Leilani’s on the Beach Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. 808.661.4495 American B,L,D,C/E

Roy’s Kā‘anapali 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. 808.669.6999 Hawai‘i Regional D,C

‘Ohana Bar & Grill Kā‘anapali Beach Club 104 Kā‘anapali Shores Pl. 808.667.1337 Regional B,L,D,C,B/W

Son’z Steakhouse Hyatt Regency Maui 200 Nohea Kai Dr. 808.667.4506 Regional D,C

‘Ūmalu Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Dr. 808.661.1234 Hawai‘i Regional L,D

KAHULUI/WAILUKU Aria’s 2062 W. Vineyard St. 808.242.2742 Hawai‘i Regional B,L,D Bistro Casanova 33 Lono Ave. 808.873.3650 Mediterranean L,D,C

Da Kitchen Triangle Square 425 Koloa St. 808.871.7782 Hawaiian L,D Maui Tacos Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center 275 Kaahumanu Ave., 808.871.7726 Mexican B,L,D Original Maui Coffee Roasters 444 Hana Hwy. 800.645.2877 American B,L A Saigon Cafe 1792 Main St. 808.243.9560 Vietnamese B,L,D Seascape Ma‘alaea Maui Ocean Center 192 Ma‘alaea Rd. 808.270.7068 Seafood L Stillwell’s Bakery & Cafe 1740 Ka‘ahumanu Ave. 808.243.2243 Dessert/Coffee B,L Tinroof 360 Papa Place 808.868.0753 Hawai‘i Regional L

KAPALUA/NĀPILI/ KAHANA

Alaloa Lounge The Ritz-Carlton 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr. 808.665.7096 Appetizers/Desserts/C/E Banyan Tree, The The Ritz-Carlton 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr. 808.665.7096 Regional D,C China Boat 4474 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd. 808.669.5089 Asian L,D

KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner. Cocktails/ Entertainment: (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer & Wine.

D I N I N G I N PA R A D I S E

Merriman’s Kapalua 1 Bay Club Pl. 808.669.6400 Hawai‘i Regional Br,D,C,B/W

Pineapple Grill Kapalua Resort 200 Kapalua Dr. 808.669.9600 Hawai‘i Regional B,L,D,C,B/W Plantation House Kapalua Resort 2000 Plantation Club Dr. 808.669.6299 Hawai‘i Regional B,L,D,C Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Kapalua Resort 600 Office Rd. 808.669.6286 Regional Japanese D,C,B/W

The Terrace Restaurant The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua One Ritz-Carlton Dr. 808.669.6200 American B

KĪHEI/WAILEA

Fred’s Mexican Cafe 2511 South Kīhei Rd. 808.891.8600 American B,L,D,C,B/W Humble Market Kitchen Wailea Beach Resort—

Marriott 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr. 808.879.4655 B,D,C,B/W Lineage The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Italian B,L,D,C Longhi’s The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., 808.891.8883 Italian B,L,D,C Moose McGillycuddy’s 2511 South Kīhei Rd. 808.891.8600 American B,L,D,C,B/W Shearwater Tavern 1279 South Kīhei Rd. 808.793.2324 American D,C,B/W

LĀHAINĀ

Aloha Mixed Plate 1285 Front St. 808.661.3322 Pacific Rim L,D,C/E,B/W

Duke’s Beach House 130 Kai Malina Pkwy. 808.662.2900 Regional B,L,D,C/E,B/W Fleetwood’s on Front St. 744 Front St. 808.669.6425 American L,D,C/E Hawai‘i Fudge Company 819 Front St. 808.661.2726 Kimo’s Restaurant 845 Front St. 808.661.4811 Seafood L,D,C,B/W Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop 820 Olowalu VIllage 808.662.3600 Hawai‘i Regional B,L,D Longhi’s Old Lāhainā Center 888 Front St. 808.667.2288 Italian B,L,D,C Maui Tacos Lāhainā Square 840 Wainee St.

808.661.8883 Mexican B,L,D Old Lahaina Lū‘au 1251 Front St. 808.667.0700 Hawaiian D Sea House Restaurant Nāpili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd. 808.669.1500 Regional B,L,D,C,B/W Star Noodle 286 Kupuohi St. 808.667.5400 Pacific Rim L,D

UPCOUNTRY

Surfing Goat Dairy 3651 Omaopio Rd. 808.878.2870

KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner. Cocktails/ Entertainment: (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer & Wine.

D I N I N G I N PA R A D I S E

WHERE GUEST B OOK 1

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT