T H E G U I D E TO LO C A L C U I S I N E
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HEARTS OF GOLD THE DAILY GRIND EDIBLE GIFTS
DINING IN PARADISE CONTENTS
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D6 EDIBLE GIFTS TASTY SOUVENIRS Bring home a taste of the island with macadamia nuts, dried fruit and prized Kona coffee. BY KRISTEN NEMOTO
D16 THE DAILY GRIND FRESHLY BREWED Kona coffee farmers yield some of the best beans in the world. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
D26 HEARTS OF GOLD A HAWAI‘I ISLAND DELICACY Demand for hearts of palm increases among chefs. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
D40 DINING GUIDE A HELPFUL LIST OF WHERE TO EAT ON HAWAI‘I ISLAND T H E G U I D E TO LO C A L C U I S I N E
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ON THE COVER
Slices of fresh island fish are garnished with micro greens and corn shoots at Roy’s Waikoloa.
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OMIYAGE FOR YOU AND ME Hawai‘i’s delicious tradition of souvenir gift-giving (or keeping). BY KRISTEN NEMOTO
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(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©TASHKA2000/ISTOCK; (THIS PAGEFROM TOPD) ©SAMANTHA FERRARO; ©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY
(Opposite page) Lychee, Hawai‘i’s popular local fruit, is often dried and given out as an omiyage. (This page, from top) Li hing mui, a sweet and salty powder, is often rubbed along the rim of a glass when making a margarita; dried fruit omiyage can be readily found at any local grocery store.
It’s pronounced oh-mee-yah-gay, known to most locals in Hawai‘i as a tasty gift that you give to those who couldn’t join you on your travels abroad. A Japanese custom that — like most multiethnic customs that have made it to the shores of Hawai‘i — continues its tradition in the form of delicious treats. As Hawai‘i has become a melting pot of ethnicities and customs, it’s hard to pinpoint a specific omiyage that’s endemic to the islands. From dried food and rice crackers to macadamia nuts and coffee, here’s a list of popular omiyage gifts that will help soothe your return to those jealous friends or family members back at home. LI HING MUI (PRONOUNCED LEE-HEENG-MOO-EE)
A test of one’s “local” childhood often comes with swapping memories of red-stained fingers from a sweet-andsalty treat known as li hing mui. It’s a dried plum that’s sucked or nibbled until the soft meat around the pit is completely gone. The range of flavors brings people back for more, especially for the powder, which could be
sold separately and often used as a seasoning. A popular way to enjoy the dried-plum powder is to sprinkle it over such fruits as pineapples, apples, oranges, pears and mangoes. Since you cannot take the fruits on the plane, we suggest tasting those versions for yourself while on the island and taking home the dried plum version in your carry-on. DRIED SEAFOOD AND FRUIT
Near the li hing mui packages, you’ll find an array of shriveled food. Dried mango, pineapple and coconut are familiar treats to your taste buds; however, try the sweeter-than-candy dried lychee (lie-chee), the bittersweet lemon peel, or the mouth-watering pickled mango. An assortment of dried seafood is also a popular omiyage. Yes it smells “fishy” and yes it takes a while to chew but sooner or later you’ll find yourself scarfing them down like potato chips. Playful strings of dried cuttlefish are well-loved by locals. Bring out a cold-pack, along with some dried shrimp and smoked ika (octopus) legs, and you’ve got yourself a party.
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ARARE (PRONOUNCED AH-LAH-LAY)
This Japanese rice cracker is known as the snack that’s unseen but definitely heard. Locals from Hawai‘i continue the tradition of sneaking the popular snack into the movie theater and mixing it with a fresh bag of buttery popcorn. The combination of textures and starches may seem odd to some but the ultimate crunch is addictive and oh-so-delicious. Arare is of course tasty by itself — just don’t have a dentist appointment to attend soon after as the cracker tends to condense and pack in between the crevices of your teeth. When you’re craving a sweet and savory treat, there’s also li-hing-mui-flavored arare. Popcorn is the best way to enjoy the snack. Make sure to buy more than enough arare to balance out your popcorn as you’ll be sad and sifting through unpopped kernels for more once you’ve tasted it.
MACADAMIA NUTS
Take one crunchy bite (or two) of Hawai‘i’s renowned creamy and buttery macadamia nuts and you’ll understand why folks have hoarded the local treat in their luggage. First developed in New South Wales, macadamia nuts soon began to grow extensively as a commercial crop in Hawai‘i, thanks to William H. Purvis, a manager of the Pacific Sugar Mill on the island of Hawai‘i. Today, macadamia nuts can be found at any local store, boasting unique and mouthwatering flavors such as honey roasted, garlic, Kona coffee, butter candy glaze, SPAM (yes, SPAM!) or regular, old-fashioned macadamia nuts covered in rich milk chocolate. COFFEE
As the only state in the United States that’s able to grow coffee plants commercially, it’s no wonder our roast
©SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
(This page) Like chips and salsa, the Japanese rice cracker known as arare goes perfectly with a fresh bowl of popcorn. (Next page) A thriving coffee tree before its beans are picked; shelled macadamia nuts.
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bles and fruits as a way to help teach his followers how to cultivate and grow their own meals. In July 1928, Rev. Samuel Ruggles took some coffee plants to the Kona District, which would become the most successful in plant production. Today, Hawai‘i Island is the leader in coffee production with 790 coffee farms. Every year, the entire state of Hawai‘i produces – on average – 1,400 pounds per acre. Nearly every grocery store on the island has its share of local coffee for sale. Check out the snack aisle, as it’s usually next to all the other omiyage gifts listed above.
(FROM LEFT) ©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY; ©WANRUT/ISTOCK
has had quite a while to perfect and build its reputation. The history of this velvety smooth brewed bean dates back to the early 1800s when visitors would bring in the seedlings from abroad. On January 21, 1813, Spaniard Don Francisco de Paula Marín, who also became a close confidant to King Kamehameha I, penned in his journal that he had planted coffee seedlings on the island of O‘ahu. John Wilkinson, a gardener who arrived on the HMS Blonde in 1825, brought in coffee plants from Brazil. The island of Hawai‘i’s Rev. James Goodrich became successful in planting coffee, vegeta-
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THE DAILY GRIND Kona coffee farmers yield some of the best beans in the world.
Billows of steam rise from paper cups and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee waft as people wait to take the first tour at Mountain Thunder. It’s a scene that repeats itself throughout the day … every day. And although this region of the Big Island of Hawai‘i deservingly merits its “coffee belt” reputation, the industry’s roots actually started in 1813 when Kamehameha the Great’s Spanish interpreter and physician, Don Francisco de Paula y Marin, planted the first trees on O‘ahu. Several years later, the Rev. Joseph Goodrich transplanted trimmings from the O‘ahu ornamental trees to 16
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his Hilo missionary. Kona was still elusive. Finally in 1828, missionary Samuel Ruggles planted the first Arabica trees in this western district of the island. And by 1840, the terms Kona and coffee became wedded like husband and wife. “We’ve always boasted about our coffee,” says state Rep. Clifton Tsuji, (D, Hilo-Kurtistown), chair of the House Committee on Agriculture. “Hawai‘i’s rich soil, climate and elevation make it ideal for planting and harvesting coffee.” With some farms perched as high as 3,200 feet above sea level, harvesting occurs year round and
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BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
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Most of Kona’s 400-700 coffee farms are small, family-run operations of three acres or less. Because of the rugged, steep terrain, the red beans — called cherries — must be hand-picked.
yields some of the best red beans (called cherries) in the world. Unfortunately, this translates to increased labor costs since the cherries must be hand picked because of the rugged, sloped terrain. “Coffee is a statewide industry but on the other islands, growers can use machines to pick the cherries,” Tsuji explains. “On the Big Island, farmers harvest the traditional way — handpicking the cherries one by one.” The majority of Kona’s 400-700 coffee farms are small, family-run operations of 2-5 acres. But larger farms like Mountain Thunder boast
more than 100 acres of land, 50 of which are reserved for growing certified organic Kona coffee. Winner of multiple national and international cupping competitions, Mountain Thunder has shored up the image and bolstered the reputation of Hawai‘i’s coffee industry. The farm’s high elevation coffee trees bloom throughout the year but most Kona coffee plants start blooming in the summer with a white fragrant blossom, locally called “Kona snow” because when the trees are in full blossom they look like they are sprinkled with a blanket of snow. In the fall, the white blossoms give way to green berries, which turn a bright blood red color and are ready to be hand picked for harvest. “We double and triple gravity (a mechanical separator that shakes the sized beans on a tilted table, so that the heaviest, densest and best vibrate to one side of the pulsating table, and the lightest to the other),” explains Trent Bateman, president of Mountain Thunder, which is located on Mt. Hualālai. “And then we color sort the beans. This is what separates us from the rest of the pack.” Much like a sommelier talks about wines, Malia Bolton of Kona Coffee
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and Tea Company likens Kona coffee fields to Napa’s vineyards. “We’re a single geographic area that produces a high-quality specialty beverage,” says Bolton, whose parents Dan and Jan Bolton, devoted 20 acres of farmland to the Kona coffee plant in 1997. Today, the area sprawls across 130 acres, yielding thousands of pounds of cherries every year. “Kona coffee has a longstanding name in the world market and we want to keep it that way,” Bolton says. Harvesting these coffee fields has always been laborious since the process — from planting to picking —
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THE BELTWAY Hawai‘i Island’s Kona coffee belt extends along a north-south swath of highways 180 and 11, starting about 10 minutes from the Kailua-Kona airport. Held every November, the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival features farm tours, coffee judging, parade and other events.
is all done by hand. Native Hawaiians and Chinese laborers first worked the large coffee plantations owned by Caucasians in the mid- to late-1800s. During the 1880s and 1890s, Japanese immigrants began their coffee legacy in these same Kona fields. When the world coffee market crashed in 1899, the large plantations shifted to small Japanese-owned family farms. As the plantations disbanded, land was divided into small 3- to 5-acre parcels and leased to the laborers. The cost of these early leases were one-half the crop, and by 1910, only Japanese coffee farms survived. The first wave of Filipinos arrived to work the burgeoning coffee farms around 1920, picking coffee during the season and returning to the sugar fields in the spring. As part of the next generation of coffee growers, Bolton acknowledges the hard work that goes into farming coffee but sees the value in perpetuating Kona coffee’s longstanding heritage. “It’s a unique product,” she asserts. “And it’s not easy nor cheap to produce.” To produce a sellable pound of coffee beans requires 7 pounds of cherries. The lengthy process starts with a pulping machine that removes the tiny beans at the center of the cherry (generally there are two beans facing each other in the cherry, occasionally the one bean fails to divide in half, called a peaberry, a highly prized coffee bean). Next the beans ferment in water, then are put on drying racks in the sun. Finally the beans are milled to remove the parchment skin, leaving the green beans to be graded and roasted. “Kona coffee is one of the premiere coffees of the world,” Tsuji says. “And we’ve got to protect the industry to assure its continuance for generations to come.”
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
HEARTS OF GOLD Dedicated farmers share their love for the peach palm BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAE HUO
They live completely off the grid. They catch their own water. They produce their own electricity. Yet, it took Lesley Hill and Michael Crowell a couple of years to accept that it was OK to make money. After all, the two self-proclaimed “old hippies” were more concerned with land stewardship and sustainability than they were with profits and gains. Furthermore, the idea of cutting the “heart” of a palm seemed “weird” to the free-spirited couple who decided to become farmers on Hawai‘i Island. “We were having beers one night at our home with Richard Hamilton—who holds a Ph.D in genetics and was part of an Amazon basin fruit project—and he was telling us that we had to do this,” recalls Crowell of the almostspontaneous decision to grow peach palm. “After we ran the numbers, we realized it was a viable idea. So we ordered 35,000 seeds that night.” That was 20 years ago. And despite their outreach efforts in communities across the Islands, the heart of palm is still a mystery vegetable among many people. When the Pejibaye (Bactris gasipaes), or peach palm, was introduced into Hawaiʻi in 1990, the objective was to develop a new
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(Previous spread) Michael Crowell and Lesley Hill on their farm. (This page) Crowell demonstrates how to harvest a heart of palm. They also grow nutmeg.
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crop as a source of fresh heart of palm and to market it to gourmands and upscale restaurants. Hill’s and Crowell’s goal was more altruistic. “We wanted to create — and still do — a minor industry since sugar production was being phased out,” asserts Hill, who first arrived on Maui as a 19-year-old co-ed on a six-week study tour and never left. “We started buying and leasing land that used to be reserved for sugarcane and started growing our palms.” Hill and Crowell credit geneticist Charles Clement for doing the pioneering work on the peach palm in the early 1990s as part of his University of Hawai‘i Ph.D program. They also received guidance and help from fellow farmer, John Mood, whose land was used as the experimental site for Clement’s original seeds. Hill’s and Crowell’s first crop took two years to grow from seed to harvestable
size. Today, approximately 1,200 trees are planted per acre, each one throwing off new shoots immediately, thus being sustainable. To harvest the heart of the palm, the entire tree must be cut down and stripped of its outer layers. “We only harvest on demand,” says Hill, with Crowell nodding in agreement and adding, “We can cut a palm down, strip it and have it in a chef’s kitchen in San Francisco in 24 hours. Ninety-nine percent of the time we’re happy with what chefs are doing with the product.” Scientifically, the heart of palm is composed of tender developing leaves enclosed within the spear leaf sheath immediately above the apical meristem or tip of the plant. The heart accounts for 99 percent of world trade in vegetable pejibaye and is produced mostly in Latin America, where it is commercially canned or bottled. The heart of the peach palm remains
(From left) Fresh nutmeg can be harvested once it begins to split open. The heart of palm stem is cut into smaller sizes and shipped out to restaurants and stores.
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an exotic delicacy in the food world. It’s ivory white in color, with a soft but crunchy texture and a delicate flavor reminiscent of artichoke heart. In the hands of chefs, this versatile vegetable can be steamed, sautéed, baked, grilled or consumed raw. In the kitchen of a former “Iron Chef,” it was once masterfully turned into a savory soup. “It has great nutritional value,” Hill explains. “It has no cholesterol and one 4-inch piece provides enough magnesium for the day.” Perched above the Hamakua Coast, Hill’s and Crowell’s Wailea Agricultural Group’s sprawling farm has been democratically subdivided into several parcels, with Hill jokingly referring to them as “His,” “Hers” and “Ours.” A good portion of acreage is devoted to the peach palm but other mixed orchards and fruits thrive, including cinnamon, açai berry, nutmeg, breadfruit, lemons, durian and mangosteen.
“We’ve taken baby steps and slowly added to our farm,” Crowell says. “We must be diversified. We don’t rely on what we have so we keep planting more.” However, as the largest producer of heart of palm in the United States, Hill and Crowell have no intention of scaling back. With consistent demand of their heart of palm from chefs around the world and big-box retailers, the baby boomers have achieved what they once thought was impossible: to make money in an organic and sustainable way. “We’ve worked really hard and we’re still actively involved but we couldn’t do this without our staff,” Hill says. “We were just a couple naïve farmers with hippie ideals when we started.” “But we had our field of dreams,” Crowell smiles. “And we get to live here and we’re thankful for that every day.”
Keauhou Shopping Center 78-6831 Alii Drive. STE.402 Kailua-Kona, HI
808.322.8424
www.royalthaicafe.com Monday to Friday, 11am-9pm Saturday & Sunday, 12pm-9pm FRESH, AUTHENTIC THAI Come to Royal Thai Cafe to taste for yourself!
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Offering Fine Wines, Beers & Cocktails Creative Appetizers & Desserts Located in Hilo, Coconut Grill is casual ocean front dining, serving local inspired food for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. Specializing in roast prime rib served everyday as well as steaks and seafood. We also offer late lunch, happy hour cocktails and appetizers from 2–5 pm, and a Sunday Breakfast buffet. 136 Banyan Way • Hilo, HI • 808-961-3330
Nani Mau Gardens
showcases 22 acres of gorgeous tropical flowers and plants!
421 Makalika Street, Hilo, HI 808.959.3500 www.nanimaugardens.com
Open from 10 AM – 3 PM Serving lunch buffet everyday from 11 AM – 1 PM Specializing in private functions for Wedding parties and all types of private functions. Floral beauty, a garden setting and a friendly and relaxing environment make Nani Mau a popular place for many special gatherings. Voted “best location in Hilo for banquets” 2016.
No matter how many miles you’ve flown to reach the Big Island, you’ll never forget your visit to Big Island Bees. Experience one of the world’s leading honey farms. Visit an open beehive where you’ll have a box seat on beekeeping, in a safe and secure screened area. Take a tour of our museum. Discover the history of beekeeping and glimpse into the hidden world of bees. Enjoy free samples of the raw, organic
single-floral honeys that are enjoyed around the world. When you come visit us here in Captain Cook, make a day of it. Snorkel at Two Step. Explore nearby Kealakekua Bay, the ancient Hiki’au Heiau Temple, and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. Come spend some time with us in this hidden corner of Hawaii. 120 million of our bees look forward to seeing you.
RESTAURANT GUIDE Ruth’s Chris Steak House (The Shops at Mauna Lani) 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 887-0800 www.ruthschrishawaii.com D, C, B/W The Korner Pocket Sports Bar & Grill 81-980 Halekii St. (808) 322-2994 B (Su), L, D, C, B/W Tropics Ale House (Waikoloa Beach Resort) 69-1022 Keana Pl. (808) 886-4287 www.tropicsalehouse.com L, D, B/W Tropics Tap House (Keauhou Shopping Center) 78-6831 Alii Dr. (808) 498-4507 www.tropicsalehouse.com L, D, B/W
ASIAN FUSION
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar (Queen’s Marketplace) 201 Waikoloa Beach Dr., #801 (808) 886-6286 www.sanseihawaii.com D, C, B/W
FRENCH
The Blue Room Brasserie & Bar (The Shops at Mauna Lani) 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., #108 (808) 887-0999 www.blueroomhi.com L, D, C, B/W
HAWAII REGIONAL
Ahualoa Farms 45-3279 Mamane St. (808) 775-1821 www.maunakeagold.com Retail Big Island Bees 82-1140 Meli Rd., Ste. 102 (808) 328-1315 www.bigislandbees.com Tours Big Island Candies 585 Hinano St. (808) 935-8890 www.bigislandcandies.com Self-guided tour, Retail
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CanoeHouse (Mauna Lani Resort) 68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 881-7911 D (M-Sa), C, B/W Coconut Grill 136 Banyan Way (808) 961-3330 B, L, D, C, B/W Daylight Mind Coffee Company 75-5770 Ali‘i Dr. (808) 339-7824 www.daylightmind.com B, L, D Koa Table (Kings’ Shops Shopping Center) 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 339-7145 B, L, D Kona Coffee & Tea 74-5035 Queen Kaahumanu Hwy. (808) 329-6577 74-5588 Palani Rd. (808) 365-5340 www.konacoffeeandtea.com B, L, B/W Lava Lava Beach Club 69-1081 Kuualii Pl. (808) 769-LAVA (5282) www.lavalavabeachclub.com Br (Su), L, D, C, B/W L & L Hawaiian Barbecue 75-5595 Palani Rd., Ste. A-6 (808) 331-8886 76-6831 Ali‘i Dr., Ste. D-124 (808) 322-9888 74-5035 Queen Kaahumanu Hwy. (808) 329-2838 www.hawaiianbarbecue.com B, L, D Plantation Grill 61-3642 Kawaihae Rd. (808) 882-1200 www.plantationgrillhawaii.com D (W-M), C, B/W Seafood Bar & Grill 61-3642 Kawaihae Rd. (808) 880-9393 www.seafoodbarandgrill.com B (Su), L, D, C, B/W The Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory 78-6772 Makenawai St. (808) 322-2626 www.ohcf.us Tours
Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar (The Shops at Mauna Lani) 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 881-8686 www.tommybahama.com L, D, C, B/W Under the Bodhi Tree (The Shops at Mauna Lani) 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., #116 (808) 895-2053 www.underthebodhi.net B, L, D Volcano Winery 35 Piimauna Dr. (808) 967-7772 www.volcanowinery.com Tastings, Retail
ITALIAN
Mi’s Waterfront Bistro 75-5770 Ali‘i Dr. (808) 329-3880 www.miswaterfrontbistro.com L, D, C, B/W Pueo’s Osteria 68-1845 Waikoloa Rd. (808) 339-7566 www.pueososteria.com D, C, B/W Romano’s Macaroni Grill 201 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 443-5515 www.macaronigrill.com B, L, D, C, B/W
JAPANESE
Monstera (The Shops at Mauna Lani) 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., #111 (808) 887-2711 www.monsterasushi.com D, C, B/W
www.a-bays.com B (Su), L, D, C, B/W Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery 55-3415 Akoni Pula Hwy. (808) 889-5555 www.bamboorestaurant.info Br (Su), L, D, C, B/W Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar (Mauna Kea Beach Hotel) 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. (808) 882-5707 B, Br (Su), D, B/W Nani Mau Gardens & Restaurants 421 Makalika St. (808) 959-3500 www.nanimaugardens.com L, D The Fish Hopper Seafood & Steaks 75-5683 Alii Dr. (808) 326-2002 www.fishhopper.com B, L, D, C, B/W Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., E-1 (808) 886-4321 www.royshawaii.com D, C, B/W
THAI
Royal Thai Cafe (Keauhou Shopping Center) 78-6831 Ali‘i Dr. (808) 322-8424 www.royalthaicafe.com L, D, B/W
PACIFIC RIM
A-Bay’s Island Grill (Kings’ Shops at the Waikoloa Beach Resort) 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., #J106 (808) 209-8494
KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner; (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer & Wine.
©HIRO_PHOTO_H/ISTOCK
AMERICAN
True Finesse Inter nationally Influenced, Hawaii Inspired.
HAWAII KAI | WAIKIKI | KO OLINA | KAANAPALI | WAIKOLOA / EATING HOUSE 1849 IN KOLOA & WAIKIKI
W W W.R OYS H AWA I I.C O M
Queens’ MarketPlace
The Most Dining Options On The Kohala Coast
—— DINING —— Charley’s Thai Cuisine Daylight Mind Café and Restaurant Romano’s Macaroni Grill Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi Bar —— FOOD OUTLETS —— Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Hawaiian Fish N Chips Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches and Salads —— GROCERY —— Island Gourmet Markets
808-886-8822 | QueensMarketPlace.net Waikoloa Beach Resort | the Kohala Coast 20 miles north of Kona International Airport on Queen Kaahumanu Highway
VOTED BEST FISH AND SEAFOOD 2015 & 2016 Experience Our Fresh Local PaciямБc Rim Inspired Cuisine BREAKFAST ~ LUNCH ~ DINNER ~ COCKTAILS
FISHHOPPER.COM | 808.326.2002 | 75-5683 ALII DR | KAILUA-KONA, HAWAII 96740 PARKING IN THE BACK OF RESTAURANT