The Outrigger
Journey
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Welcome OUTRIGGER® HOTELS AND RESORTS
In Hawai‘i, we greet guests by saying E Komo Mai, Welcome. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or returning guest, we are pleased that you selected Outrigger® Resorts. A family-owned company with more than 67 years of hospitality experience
At Outrigger® Resorts, our commitment to our sense of place is universal and our outreach is global. Join us on our lifelong journey.
and our roots firmly planted in Hawai‘i, Outrigger embraces an authentic style of ho‘okipa (hospitality) — what we call Ke ‘Ano Wa‘a, The Outrigger Way. We believe that a resort should offer more than just a room with a view. It should be a window to a new world of beauty, serenity and discovery. We understand that our very existence begins with caring for our place — our world. Our core values are celebrated globally, and expressed in the traditions and cultures of our host nations. In the same spirit as Ke ‘Ano Wa‘a, in Guam we say Inafa ‘maolek (Making It Good for Others); in Fiji, we practice the Bula Spirit; in Australia, our motto is Mateship; in Thailand, it’s Mittrapab (Friendship); and we practice Ensame (Together) in Mauritius. At Outrigger®, our commitment to our sense of place is universal and our outreach is global. Here in Hawai‘i, our cultural commitment includes a partnership with the Polynesian Voyaging Society and support of the current voyage of the Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia. These two magnificent canoes have embarked on a multiyear, worldwide journey throughout Hawai‘i and across the Pacific with stops at 28 nations and 85 international ports of call, sailing more than 47,000 nautical miles. We will be there for them as we chart our own global expansion. Wherever you choose an Outrigger® property, we want you to feel like an honored guest from the moment you arrive to the time you depart. From bell captains and servers, to front desk hosts, housekeepers, pool attendants and entertainers, each of us strives for lōkahi, a unity, in service and spirit. We hope your stay is pleasant, everything you expect and more, and that you will return soon to an Outrigger® Resorts property.
David Carey President and Chief Executive Officer
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f e at u r e s
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WATER WORLD
44
TO THAI FOR Southeast Asian cuisine satisfies all senses.
healing and energizing qualities of our
of Mauritius.
BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
most precious natural resource.
BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
STEERING THE WAY
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MUSIC MATTERS
on the co v er
Most musical genres have a shelf life, but
While better known as Yokohama Bay, the
new waters during a three-year journey.
Hawaiian music remains relevant to each
Hawaiian name for this beach is Keawa‘ula,
BY KIM STEUTERMANN ROGERS
new generation.
which means “the red harbor.”
BY ALLAN SEIDEN
Photography by Cameron Brooks
LEGENDARY Elixir A native plant of the South Pacific, kava is consumed in various ways and is used for
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Discover the harmony and diversity
Sister ships Hōkūle�a and Hikianalia chart
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peace of land
Photographers capture the nourishing,
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where hawai‘i comes alive Waimea Valley is an area of historic and
medicinal, cultural and social purposes.
cultural significance on the North Shore.
BY KRISTEN NEMOTO
BY LEIGH MARCELLO
THE OUTRIGGER JOURNEY
(clockwise from left) ©SIME/estock photo; carin krasner; ©adam palmer/photo resource hawaii/alamy
Contents
d e st i nat i o n s
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hawaiian islands
123
japanese
room with a view; they are a portal to a new
of five-star resorts in these Asian countries.
TOP 5 A handful of attractions that you won’t want to miss while visiting the Hawaiian Islands.
4
CHINA/VIETNAm Expansion plans will include the addition
world of beauty, serenity and discovery.
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142
Outrigger properties offer more than just a
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ASIA PACIFIC Beyond Hawai‘i, Outrigger® Resorts maintains properties in some of the most exotic spots, including Thailand, Fiji, Australia and Guam.
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JOURNEY ON Ernest Hemingway once said, “It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”
(clockwise from left) ©dallas nagata white; ©greg balfour evans/alamy; ©ivan cholakov/shutterstock
Contents
The Outrigger
Journey W h e r e | H AWA I I Advertising & Circulation REGIONAL publisher
Kathleen M. Pahinui, 808.983.5441
REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT
Patti Ruesch
Katherine Ellwood, Bob Kowal, Donna Kowalczyk
account executiveS
BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR CIRCULATION & MARKETING MANAGER
Miao Woo
Sidney Louie Production
Production manager
Brittany L. Kevan
Editorial senior EDITOR EDITOR
Simplicio Paragas
Kristen Nemoto
associate EDITOR
Rizza Ballesteros
assistant EDITOR
Summer Nakaishi
ART DiRECtoRs Michael Min, Teri Samuels contributing writers Leigh Marcello, Kim Steutermann
Rogers, Allan Seiden contributing Photographer Carin Krasner japanese translatoR
Misayo Hobbs
M O RR I S V I S I T O R P U B L I C A T I O N S
MVP | Executive PRESIDENT
Donna W. Kessler
vice president of operations Angela E. Allen Chief travel editor Geoff Kohl
MVP | National Sales vice president, national sales
Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 national sales coordinator
David Gately
MVP | Cartography & Circulation general manager, where maps
Christopher Huber
MVP | Creative CHIEF CREATIVE DIRECTOR Haines Wilkerson senior regional editorial director Margaret Martin design director
Jane Frey
photography director
Susan Strayer
creative coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt Production manager Jasond Fernandez
MVP | Manufacturing & Technology director of manufacturing
Donald Horton technical operations manager
Tony Thorne-Booth
national CIRCULATION COORDINATOR
Noreen Altieri M o r r is communications Chairman & ceo President
William S. Morris III
William S. Morris IV
E-mails for all of the above : Firstname.lastname@morris.com The Outrigger Journey is published annually for Outrigger® Hotels and Resorts by Morris Visitor Publications, 1833 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 810, Honolulu, HI 96830 ph (808) 955-2378 fax (808) 955-2379 Copyright © 2015 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in Hong Kong. MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA
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Contributors 1. brown W. cannon III For the past 15 years, Brown Cannon has had a career that has taken him across the globe shooting commercial, travel and lifestyle photography for editorial magazines and companies. His work can be found regularly in many of the world’s top publications, including Conde Nast and National Geographic. His photography has earned him the Lowell Thomas 1
2
awards for best editorial travel features in 2006, 2007, 2010, 2012.
5
3
4. leigh marcello
2. carin krasner
Leigh Marcello was born in Honolulu
Carin Krasner is a highly respected Los
and graduated with a Bachelors of Arts
Angeles still-life commercial photogra-
in Hawaiian Studies from the University
pher. A graduate of Art Center College
of Hawai‘i at Mānoa. She has worked as
of Design, she has helped create stun-
a cultural programs specialist at Waimea
ning work for multiple magazines,
Valley. Leigh enjoys sharing her mana‘o
books, commercials, brochures and
(knowledge) of the valley, which she con-
advertisements. Carin’s ability to
siders one of the many landmarks that
explore new areas of artistic growth has
makes her home a special place.
earned her recognition in many prestigious industry publications.
5. allan seiden Writer, photographer, historian and
3. kim steutermann
4
designer Allan Seiden has lived in
rogers
Hawai‘i since arriving from New York
Kaua‘i resident Kim Steutermann Rogers
City with a backpack and hiking boots
has worked as a journalist for many
in 1974. He is the recipient of two
years. As a writer, her focus has been
Hawai‘i State Kahili awards for works
on travel, outdoor adventure, nature,
of cultural value. He is currently
endangered species and Hawai‘i. Her
working on a book about World War II
destination pieces and first-person
in the Pacific, a companion to
narratives have been featured in such
Fishponds to Warships: An Illustrated
publications as Islands, Hana Hou and
History of Pearl Harbor. Other titles
Hawai‘i, as well as online at Outrigger-
include The Art of the Hula, The
Hawaii.com.
American Woman and WW II and The Hawaiian Monarchy and Diamond Head: Hawai‘i’s Icon.
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Find Out. OUTRIGGER® RESORTS
Nothing adventured, nothing gained. At Outrigger® Resorts, we believe that true hospitality is a language all its own. Join us on our journey to global discovery. FIND MORE The pages of this book can only contain so much. Look for additional stories and property updates at Outrigger.com.
FIND JOY Is there a more perfect world beyond the horizon? We think so. Our blog roll, “View From Here,” covers a range of topics about living in, traveling about and experiencing Hawai‘i. Here, you’ll find first-person blog accounts of everything from hiking through Haleakalā on Maui and diving with manta rays off Hawai‘i, The Big Island, to snorkeling Shark’s Cove on O‘ahu and paddling Kaua‘i’s Nāpali Coast. This material serves as both inspiration for those who haven’t yet had the experience and a virtual trip down memory lane for those who have. Outrigger.com/ViewFromHere
FIND PERFECTION Download free wallpaper images of the Hawaiian Islands for your computer desktop. Outrigger.com/Wallpaper
FIND FUN How many shades of blue are there? Find the answer
facebook.com/outriggerhawaii youtube.com/outriggerhawaii
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twitter.com/Outriggerresort
flickr.com/outriggerhawaii
instagram.com/outriggerresorts
pinterest.com/outriggerresort
COURTESY OUTRIGGER.COM
by booking online at Outrigger.com.
On the Air L O C A L LY P R O D U C E D T V F O R V I S I T O R S
At all O‘ahu properties, look for original programming on Outrigger Television in your room. Channel 5 covers cultural and dining information, giving viewers an inside look into popular attractions, Pacific Rim cuisine, shopping venues and entertainment. Channel 6 is Outrigger’s in-house channel, which features stories that convey a “sense of place.” Learn about Outrigger Resorts’ founders, Roy and Estelle Kelley, and follow the Polynesian Voyaging Society’s three-year journey aboard Hōkūle‘a and sister ship Hikianalia. Last but not least, on Channel 7, visit clips from our Neighbor Islands and enjoy the views and music. Japan TV is found on Channel 45.
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WAT E R W O R L D A
P H O T O
E SSAY
F RO M
T H E
O U T R I G G E R
P E R S P E CT I V E
WAT E R W O R L D 18
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BY WATER, all things find life. Water gives us a sense of place and it is the common thread that bonds all nature and humans together. Our ecosystem requires it; our bodies demand it. Over the next several pages, photographers focus their lens on a singular theme: the transparent fluid known as water. We start in Hawai‘i where forests are considered so crucial to the Islands’ water supply that they are recognized in an ancient Hawaiian proverb: “Hahai no ka ua i ka ululā‘au,” which means “the rain follows the forest.” While wellknown for our beaches, our Islands are also home to some of the most spectacular waterfalls, most of which can be safely accessed by foot via trails. Photographs: (Opposite) ©Brown W. Cannon III/ Intersection Photos. (This page) ©SIME/eStock Photo
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Ho‘omoe wai kāhi ke kāo‘o Let’s all travel together like water flowing in one direction
THE REFLECTION of palm trees can be seen in this paddy field, a flooded parcel of arable land that is the typical feature of rice farming in East, South and Southeast Asia. In Thailand, rain-making rituals are common among rice farmers, who mark the traditional beginning of the rice-growing season with the Royal Ploughing Ceremony.
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Water not only provides sustenance but it also rejuvenates us, whether surfing above it or diving into it on a warm summer day. Buddhists consider the water lily as a symbol of enlightenment because of the beautiful bloom that emerges from the mud. They also see the water lily as representative of purity and divine birth. Beads of water collect on the surface of a tea leaf.
Photographs: (Opposite) ©Darren Robb/Getty Images. (This page, clockwise from top left) ©Felix Hug/Getty Images; ©Andrew Beveridge/Getty Images; ©Thomas Barwick/Getty Images; ©Seng MyshkovskyGetty Images
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KOI FISH are a common symbol in both Chinese culture and feng shui. It’s believed that this ornamental fish has a powerful and energetic life force, demonstrated by its ability to swim against currents and even travel upstream. Some of the characteristics associated with the koi include good fortune, success, prosperity, longevity, courage, ambition and perseverance. The fish’s coloring also has meaning. Certain hues represent certain aspects or outcomes in life. The kohaku has a white body with red spots, and symbolizes success in one’s career. Symbolic of life changes and transformations, the kumonryu includes two main variations: one has a white body with black spots and the other has an all-black body. Ogon is a solid, silvercolored koi, which represents success in business and wealth. And yamabuki koi is gold in color and symbolizes riches and wealth. Photographs: (Opposite, far right) ©Cedric Angeles/Intersection Photos. (Others) ©Brown W. Cannon III/Intersection Photos
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Approximately 70 percent of the earth’s surface is covered with water. And 96.5 percent of our water — about 326 million cubic miles — is found in seas and oceans. We wait for swells to form in the open
water and enjoy the touch of it through our toes. Water is the only natural substance that is found in all three physical states — liquid, solid and gas — at temperatures normally found on earth.
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Today, one of the most important environmental issues is the protection of the oceans. As citizens of this earth, we must paddle in the same direction. Photograph: ŠCameron Brooks
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26
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p o ly n e s i a n
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28
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ca n o e ,
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f o rc e .
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During the ’70s, a Hawaiian cultural renaissance
the equivalent of six-and-a-half times around the earth.
began to flourish, thanks partly to the building of Hōkūle‘a,
“Malama Honua” (“Care for the Earth”) defines this ambi-
a replica of the Polynesian voyaging canoe built to test
tious worldwide voyage’s mission, with a goal of charting a
ancient methods of navigation. Since its inaugural voy-
new course toward sustainable practices for food, energy
age to Tahiti in 1976, Hōkūle‘a has sailed 140,000 miles,
and global environment.
(Above left) Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia crew members David Komine, left, and Herve Maraetaata secure one of the sails. (Far left) Apprentice navigator Kalā Baybayan studies the distant horizon. After completing the first leg of the tour to Tahiti, the three have now been replaced by a new team of sailors who will continue with the three-year global journey. (Above right) A ti leaf lei and hau (hibiscus) rope are tied around a rock as a form of ritual offering.
(Below) A ti-leaf bundle contains an offering to the seas for a safe journey. (Bottom photo) Bound tight to Hōkūle‘a’s manu hope (curved endpieces) are wooden figures or ki‘i . (Right) Crewmembers get a reprieve from the swells.
In an unprecedented voyage, Hōkūle‘a, along with sis-
tial navigation — versus GPS, compass, or, even, sextant — to
a three-year journey that will include stops at 28 nations
find their way around the globe. “Sunset time is one of the
and 85 international ports of call, sailing more than 47,000
most important times of the day,” Murphy says. “It’s impor-
nautical miles. “Hōkūle‘a is not a canoe, it’s a living life
tant to read the ocean and pay attention to your last direc-
force,” says Nainoa Thompson, Hōkūle‘a master navigator
tional clue — the sun.”
and president of the nonprofit organization Polynesian
Murphy has apprenticed under Thompson since 1998.
Voyaging Society (PVS). “This voyage scares me; it wakes
She explains his method for using the voyaging canoe as a
me up. We know we’re going to get the storms; we know the
compass, in which the canoe is divided into equal quadrants,
seas will be rough.”
and each quadrant is further divided into eight equal houses.
Fellow navigator Ka‘iulani Murphy understands the inherent dangers but she’s committed to perpetuating the
32
traditional Polynesian voyaging methods that rely on celes-
ter ship Hikianalia, will circumnavigate the globe during
Each sunset and sunrise is noted based on where the sun’s shadow crosses the canoe’s beams.
(Above left) Kaiwi Hamakua-Makue, left, and Tamiko Fernelius steer the hoe uli (center paddle). (Above center) Kaleo Wong smiles as he enjoys the scenery. (Right) The sun, crewmembers’ last directional clue, begins to set, making sunset one of the more important times of the day.
“On a nice clear night, you don’t have to worry as much,
the word lama, which means a light or torch,” says Outrigger’s
are doing,” says Murphy. “Throughout the night, you’re try-
cultural experiences manager Kaipo Ho. “Let this voyage serve
ing to keep yourself on course relative to the swells that you
as a symbol and our commitment to do our part to Malama
observed at sunset. If there’s a big swell coming from far away,
Honua, to care for our place, our planet and to be that light for
the waves should maintain their direction throughout the
our Mother Earth.”
night. But you want to keep an eye out in case they change.” Once the sun sets, Murphy says she watches for planets,
this earth that have to be dealt with in a kind and compassionate and caring way. One of the goals of this worldwide voyage is
stars low on the horizon. “Stars also help with latitude,” she
to use the canoe as a classroom to teach the world how to live
points out. “Here in Hawai‘i, Hōkūle‘a (Arcturus) and Hikianalia
more sustainably on all our “islands,” Island Earth included.
nously as we go south, telling us our latitude.” This is the way of Polynesian wayfinding, using stars as a road map to navigate Oceania.
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Thompson acknowledges that there are serious issues on
because they show themselves first. Then, she watches for
(Spica) rise at the same time. Other star pairs rise synchro-
34
“Nested within the Hawaiian word malama, to care for, is
but on a cloudy night you also need to read what the swells
“As much as people call this planet green, it’s not, it’s blue — 72 percent of the earth’s surface is water,” Thompson says. “The biodiversity of the planet is really defined by how well we take care of the biodiversity of the oceans. And it’s all at risk.”
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l e g e n da ry elixir Kava: The art, tales and controversies of Polynesia’s 3,000-year-old medicine. By
k r i st e n
n e m o t o
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The origins of kava are steeped in mythological tales of mourning and spiritual beings. On the Pentecost Island in Vanuatu, there’s the story of the distraught orphaned boy who buried his twin sister only to return a week later to her grave to find the growth of a mysterious plant; or the tale of the Samoan deity Tagaloa, who hailed kava as the “nectar of the gods.” Recognized by many as a medicine birthed from the heavens or a symbolic phallus that gives life to an otherwise barren and remote land, kava has impacted generations of Polynesians who deem it “the water of life.” Traced back thousands of years throughout the Pacific, kava—the common English term—has been used as a ceremonial gift for a special occasion or as a sign of respect before visiting someone’s home. Although kava is used throughout Polynesia, its name appears in at least 80 different iterations, including ‘awa in Hawai‘i, ava in Samoa and yaqona in Fiji. “A lot of our rituals and protocols involve [kava],” says Inoke Seru Suguturaga, the manager of the Fijian village at the Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie, O‘ahu, and a native of the village of Mokani in Fiji. “Whether you’re a visitor to one of the villages within Fiji or a local heading to your cousin’s house for
(Right) Harvesting the kava plant can take place any time of the year, but once the roots have been extracted, it then takes another three years before the next roots are harvestable. (Center) During the kava ceremony, the root is ground (above left) strained then methodically added to cold water.
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dinner, the sevu sevu (presentation of the kava root) is shared
the plant then pounded it into smaller pieces on a stone.
among the visitors and their hosts. It’s to show respect,” he
Virgin girls (or boys in southern Vanuatu) were then obliged
continues. “You present your sevu sevu to the chief or host
to masticate the root then place it on a banana leaf or into a
and if they accept it, that means they are allowing you to visit.”
large bowl filled with cold water. After it was strained, kava
Derived from the pepper family Piperaceae, which
was served in halved coconut shells to the assembled drink-
includes more than 2,000 species of herbs, shrubs, small
ers. By the 19th century, although the method had been car-
trees and woody climbers, kava is made from the plant Piper
ried out for thousands of years prior, colonial administrators
methysticum, a hardy, slow-growing perennial that can reach
and missionaries claimed the practice unsanitary and it has
heights of more than 9 feet tall. In “Kava—The Pacific Elixir,”
since nearly disappeared.
Vincent Lebot, Mark Merlin and Lamont Lindstrom write about the birth of kava, explaining how local men uprooted
Today, kava is cultivated through its root, which is
Kava consumers can expect to feel a tingling sensation on their tongue and eventually numbness and relaxation throughout their entire body. Used primarily in Fiji as a social drink, kava is often abused by those looking for a “quick buzz.”
pounded into a fine powder then strained and served to
Traditionally, kava is prepared by either chewing, grinding or pounding the roots. Grinding is accomplished by hand against a cone-shaped block of dead coral; the hand forms a mortar and the coral a pestle. The ground root is
combined with only a little water, as the fresh root releases moisture during the grinding process. Pounding is normally done against a large stone with a small log. The product is then added to cold water and consumed as quickly as possible.
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supplements was its simple cultivation method.
household. In a less-than-formal setting, kava is used as an end-of-the-day drink without regard to one’s social status. “To a lot of people, it tastes like muddy water,” says Dr. H.C. “Skip” Bittenbender, an extension specialist at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa for coffee, kava and cacao. “But it’s a great way to relax.” Kava consumers can expect to feel a tingling sensation
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Bittenbender says. “When you do that, the leaves and parts of the root are toxic … Polynesians have known that for thousands of years. The companies didn’t think to consider that.” “Kava, like anything else, is best done in moderation,” Suguturaga warns. “Our ancestors had not designed [kava] for the purpose of drinking in excess. I can understand some man-
on their tongue and eventually numbness and relaxation
ufacturers’ perspective, for they want to get the most mileage
throughout their entire body. Used primarily in Fiji as a social
out of the plant; but they should have done their homework.”
drink, kava is often abused by those looking for a “quick
42
“What had happened was they were using the entire plant,”
Previous studies of kava supplements have determined
buzz.” In the early to late 1980s, when kava became popular in
that the chemistry of kava — when processed properly — is
Western culture, demand grew for kava-manufactured prod-
far less perilous than the effects of alcohol. Kava is neither a
ucts. By the late 1990s, kava products were found in abun-
hallucinogen nor a stupefacient. Rather, it is a mild narcotic,
dance, and reports of liver failure quickly followed throughout
a soporific, a diuretic and a major muscle relaxant. Owner of
(page 41, from left) ©Stuart Westmoreland/Getty Images; ©bettmann/corbis; ©yvette
difference that scientists found with the concentrated kava
and serves as a model of chiefly hierarchy or head of the
cardozo/Getty Images; (opposite FROM LEFT) ©linny morris; ©tony novak-clifford
parts of Europe and the United States. Bittenbender says the
meticulously carved kava bowls, the drinking order proceeds
page) ©Chris mcdonough; (page 38 right) ©paul miles/corbis; (page 40) ©Getty Images;
distinguished guests. As participants sit in a circle around
(page 36) ©Linny morris; (page 37 and 39) ©Olivier koning; (page 38 left & center and this
Kava plants are harvested around four years of age. The plant’s root is classified under two categories: crown or lateral. (Above left) Crown roots are largediameter pieces while lateral roots (above right) are smaller in size and resemble more a typical root. (Above center) After harvesting, the roots are trimmed into smaller pieces then dried in sunlight.
cardozo/Getty Images; (opposite FROM LEFT) ©linny morris; ©tony novak-clifford
Fiji Kava in Honolulu, Daya Nand, lauds the use of kava for its
effect of the kava drink supersedes its reputation for having
overall medicinal healing and euphoric-mood benefits.
tranquil and anti-anxiety healing benefits.
“Kava is good for the mind and body,” says Nand, an Indo-
“In Fiji we have a saying: gunu yaqona mo manoa,”
Fijian whose popular kava shop is found on Honolulu’s busy
Suguturaga says. “It translates to ‘drink kava to become mel-
Dillingham Boulevard. “It’s nothing like alcohol; many people
low.’ In Fijian culture, kava is used to solve many problems and
often make that mistake. It makes you relaxed, happy but
issues. We use kava to gather around and discuss any con-
your mind stays sharp.”
cerns and ultimately resolve them and move on.”
Like Suguturaga and Bittenbender, Nand believes the drink
Kava — a drink associated with creating peace and har-
in moderation is a practice he would like to see continue with
mony among chiefs, locals and outsiders — has grown into
each new generation.
a symbol of esteem and civility that Suguturaga is proud to
“I’m happy to share it with others who are interested,” Nand says smiling. “That’s what kava is all about.” Suguturaga agrees. Although he has reservations about
relate to his Fijian culture. “One of the reputations that Fijians have is that we’re very
“One of the reputations that Fijians have is that we’re very happy people. Kava is part of that in a way because we take the time to show mutual respect ... When you establish respect, it creates a type of protocol of resolution and peace.” —Inoke Seru Suguturaga
happy people,” Suguturaga says. “Kava is a part of that in a
the widespread and casual usage of kava in Fiji and through-
way because we take the time to show mutual respect among
out Polynesia — as opposed to the “sacred” validity that is
each other. When you establish respect, it creates a type of
seldom practiced today — Suguturaga believes the communal
protocol of resolution and creates peace.”
Water is slowly added to grounded kava. In Fiji, a formal yaqona (kava) ceremony often accompanies important religious, social and
political functions, which usually involve a ritual presentation of the bundled roots as a sevu sevu (gift), and then drinking of the yaqona itself.
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P E AC E O F L A N D h a r m o n y a n d d i v e r s i t y d e f i n e t h e i s l a n d o f m au r i t i u s
By p h o t o g r a p h y
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by
s i m p l i c i o
b row n
pa r aga s
W. c a n n o n
III / i n t e r s e c t i o n
p h o t o s
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M au r i t i a n s a r e v e ry w e l l k n ow n f o r t h e i r wa r m h o s p i ta l i t y.
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Priya Hein vividly remembers waking up as a
The American author’s quote may have been taken out
young girl to forage for Chinese guava to prepare homemade
of context but his words may nevertheless ring true for first-
jam. And one of her favorite memories is learning how to
time visitors to this Indian Ocean paradise. With its powdery
swim with her cousins in the aqua lagoon at Mon Choisy.
beaches protected by a coral reef barrier to the east, west
And although she left Mauritius as a teenager to study in
and north, jagged cliffs to the south and two renowned
the United Kingdom, the children’s book author is still very
heritage sites, this multiethnic nation of 1.3 million people is
attached to her motherland.
richly steeped in history, social dynamics and culinary fusion.
“I am very nostalgic about Mauritius,” says Hein, who is
Like Hawai‘i, Mauritius’ colonial history has led to its
now based a continent away in Munich, Germany. “I have
rich palette of ethnicities. Named after Prince Maurice Van
fond memories of growing up [here]. Its natural beauty, stun-
Nassau, Mauritius was first colonized by the Dutch, followed
ning clear lagoons, warm people and unique cuisine make it a
in the 17th century by the French who renamed it Île de
special place. But being Mauritian, I may be a little biased so I
France. In 1814, the Treaty of Paris ratified the cession of
will quote Mark Twain who said, ‘God created Mauritius first
Mauritius and its dependencies, Rodrigues and Seychelles,
and then heaven.’”
to the British. Fast-forward two centuries. Today’s diverse
(Opposite page) Children run across the sand dunes at Seven Coloured Earth, a prominent tourist attraction in southwestern Mauritius. (This page, clockwise from top left) A mother and her child take a break from hunting snails at low tide at Baie du Cap. Sega is the Mauritian national dance. A rainbow arcs over sugarcane fields. Artists can often create and sell their paintings by the water in Trou d’Eau Douce.
THE OUTRIGGER JOURNEY
49
(From left) Shoppers pick out fresh tomatoes at the outdoor Flacq Market. Kite surfing at Le Morne Peninsula. Chamarel Falls is another must-see attraction.
population includes people of Indian descent, Creole lineage,
including a stop at the Château de Bel Ombre and checking
families of Sino-Mauritians (from the Far East) and groups of
out the museum of Mahebourg. In the northern part of the
OUTRIGGER MAURITIUS RESORT & SPA AT BEL OMBRE
Franco- and Anglo-Mauritians. The island offers a harmonious
island, don’t miss the famous Pamplemousses Garden and the
Located on the southwest shore of
example of how Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists and Christians
19th-century Château de Labourdonnais, which only recently
Bel Ombre, Outrigger® Mauritius
unite as — to quote the national anthem — “one people … one
opened to the public.
Resort is this Indian Ocean island’s
“There is no indigenous group of Mauritius, which was an
Beyond its beaches and points of interest, Mauritius
newest luxury destination. All 181
boasts two United Nations Educational, Scientific and
guest rooms face the turquoise sea,
uninhabited island until the first settlers arrived on the island,”
Cultural Organization world heritage sites: Le Morne, a
promising memorable views and
Hein explains. “I am a descendant of Indian indentured laborers
mountainous region on the southwest side of the island; and
sunsets. Relax at one of the three
who settled in Mauritius to work on the sugar cane plantations.”
the Aapravasi Ghat Immigration Depot that was established
swimming pools then savor the
in the second half of the 19th century to welcome indentured
international cuisine at either the
which include tracing the tea route that starts at Domaine des
laborers. Most Mauritians, including Hein, trace the arrival
Plantation Club, Mercado, Edgewater
Aubineaux. “It is a scenic route where you can visit the tea
of their ancestors from this site, which welcomed over half a
or Willie’s Rum and Crab Shack. A
plantations, tea factory and taste the different types of Bois
million immigrants between 1834 and the 1920s.
supervised kids club will allow their
As a local insider, Hein readily shares her must-sees,
Chéri tea,” she says. “You could combine it with a visit to the
“My great great grandfather arrived here on August 10,
nearby lake of Grand Bassin, where Mauritian Hindus go on a
1874,” Hein says. “I have very fond memories of growing up in
pilgrimage every year. They consider the lake to be sacred.”
Mauritius, which I would like to share with not only my own
Hein also recommends visiting the scenic southern coast,
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THE OUTRIGGER JOURNEY
children but also with other children.”
parents a respite at the Navasana Spa. www.outrigger.com
(0pposite right) ©F.Bettex/lookandprint.com/Alamy
nation, in peace, justice and liberty.”
Cultural celebrations are commonplace in Mauritius. Divali, or the Festival of Lights (right), is celebrated in a spirit of pure joy over five days. Fireworks light up the sky and clay lamps line the walls, balconies and yards of peoples’ homes. (Below) Hindus visit the statue of Lord Shiva at the sacred Grand Bassin.
CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS
other while wishing one another health
Throughout the year, the streets of
and prosperity.
Mauritius come alive with parades
National Day — March 12 Independence
celebrating the Chinese Spring Festival,
Day is celebrated with great national
the procession of the Tamil Cavadi, the
pride throughout the island.
popular pilgrimage to Sainte-Croix and
Chinese Spring Festival — Chinese New
Divali, deemed the most jovial of all
Year’s Day is celebrated each year on
Hindu festivals.
a different date because of variations
Fire Walking — December / January /
between the lunar and solar calendars.
February — This Tamil ceremony takes
Eid al-Fitr — July-August
place between December and February.
An important Muslim festival, Eid
After 10 days of purification, meditation
al-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan, the
and praying, penitents go to the temple
Islamic holy month of fasting. The holi-
where they walk slowly across a pit of
day celebrates the conclusion of the 29
burning coal — said to represent the out-
or 30 days of dawn-to-sunset fasting
stretched sari of Draupadi (a character in
during Ramadan.
the epic Mahābhārata) — before dipping
Père Laval Pilgrimage — September
their feet in milk to cool down.
Mauritians of all faiths walk a long dis-
Maha Shivratree — February-March
tance or drive to Sainte-Croix near Port
In honor of Lord Shiva, thousands of
Louis to visit the tomb of the Blessed
pilgrims walk long distances to the
Jacques Désiré Laval — the “Apostle of
sacred lake of Grand Bassin, carrying the
the Black People.”
‘Kanwar’— wooden arches covered with
Divali — October-November
flowers and small mirrors. This Mauritian
This is Priya Hein’s favorite festival,
celebration is one of the most sacred Hindu
which marks the victory of Rama over
festivals to be found outside of India.
Ravana. “I just love the magical atmo-
Holi — March This is an important time
sphere of joy and festivity leading up
for joy and sharing on the Indian calendar.
to Divali,” she says. “It is a celebration
During this frenzied but always good-
of the victory of good over evil. We do
natured event, men, women and children
our best to celebrate it here in Munich
throw colored water and powder at each
although it is not the same.”
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51
music
m at t e r s Most musical genres have a shelf life, but Hawaiian music remains relevant to each new generation. By allan seiden all images courtesy of Allan Seiden, Hawaiian Legacy Archive
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Nothing quite defines Hawai‘i’s unique cultural heritage as does its music. The rhythmic beat of pahu (drums), the rattle of ‘uli‘uli (seed-filled small gourds) and kupe‘e niho ‘ilio (dog-teeth anklets), the tapping of ipu (dried gourds) and pu‘ili (bamboo sticks), or the birdlike strains of an ‘ohe hano, a bamboo nose flute, were the musical accompaniment to the sacred hula. The instruments paced the dancers and chanters who sang of gods and god-like chiefs, providing a hypnotic pulse to the dance ceremony and its spiritual message. By the mid-19th century, it seemed that Hawaiian music would be lost, condemned by missionaries who considered the ways of old as heathen links to the pre-Christian past. A modest revival of hula and its instrumental accompaniment slowly began during the reign of Kamehameha V (1863-1872),
the bachelor king who sought to preserve Hawaiian culture amid the fast-changing inroads of the outside world. King Kalākaua (1874-1891) would perpetuate this preservationist mentality, writing several books on the Hawaiian past and adding hula to such ceremonial events as the completion of ‘Iolani Palace in 1881 and the celebration of the King’s 50th birthday Jubilee in 1883.
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Early Hawaiians composed and maintained an extensive oral tradition through chants, called mele. With the introduction of the piano and ‘ukulele, Hawaiian music evolved to reflect the changing musical trends, which included big band music of the Swing Era.
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When Hawaiian music emerged as a popular genre early in the 20th century, songs were composed in a style now known as hapa haole, half foreign.
What most people today associate with Hawaiian music
including the quintessential “Hawaiian Aloha ‘Oe.” Both com-
When Hawaiian music emerged as a popular genre early in the
posed in the style that would come to be called hapa haole, half
20th century, the music transformed from rhythmic to melodic.
foreign. There was much that was different in this new musical
The change was brought about by the popularization of the
genre. To start, the instrumental components were completely
piano, which was fed by sheet music. Exotic Hawai‘i proved
new: drums and rattles were replaced by adaptations of instru-
a perfect subject for Tin Pan Alley, the street in New York City
ments brought to the Islands in the mid-to-late 19th century.
that was the heart of the sheet music industry. With Hawai‘i
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THE OUTRIGGER JOURNEY
anthem, while Lili‘uokalani would pen hundreds of melodies,
is very different from these ancient rhythms and instruments.
The ‘ukulele, for example, came to Hawai‘i as the bragu-
officially becoming a territory of the United States in 1900, the
inha, brought in by Portuguese migrants from Madeira and
timing was right as the sheet music craze took off. The royal
the Azores. Mexico is the likely origin of the Hawaiian guitar,
Kalākauas played an important role in this evolutionary time
possibly imported to Hawai‘i in the mid-19th century by
for Hawaiian music. While traditional musicians performed
cowboys hired to work Hawai‘i’s newly-created cattle ranches.
at palace events, King Kalākaua, Queen Lili‘uokalani and their
The Hawaiians, with a natural feel for the instrument, soon
siblings, Likelike and Leleiohoku, were all accomplished com-
adapted it, creating a sound that would become identifiably
posers. Kalākaua would compose Hawai‘i Ponoi, today the state
Hawaiian, adding slack-key tuning and developing the steel
(opposite left) ©dana edmunds
In the early 1900s, Hawaiian music had gained in popularity and mainland musicians began to produce songs with an island theme. Even Queen Lili‘uokalani composed hundreds of melodies, including the culturally symbolic “Hawaiian Aloha ‘Oe.”
guitar, with the slider (called the “steel”) pressed on the strings
of Hawaiian culture, with hula and Hawaiian music in the
M U S I C H A L L O F FA M E
to provide an evocative, lingering vibration that said Hawai‘i.
lead. And then there was the late Don Ho. If any one singer
After all these years, the very core of
came to be identified with Hawaiian music, it was Ho and the
Hawai‘i has been safeguarded through
new instruments and vocalizations were hybrid variations of
Like many of the Hawaiians who would play them, these
Tiny Bubbles fame that came his way in the 1970s, ’80s and
its music and dance. Some of that histo-
the hapa haole style. Hawaiian-themed songs became nation-
’90s. Ho’s reign may long be over, but Hawaiian music has
ry can be discovered without ever leav-
al hits, popularized by stars like Al Jolson and Sophie Tucker.
continued to prosper, continuing a Golden Age now decades
ing Waikīkī. Located along the makai
in the making and still going strong, recognized as an indepen-
(ocean) corridor of Embassy Suites
ers and musicians were taking Hawaiian music from its
In Hawai‘i, a growing number of homegrown compos-
dent Grammy Awards category from 2005-2011, and with the
— Waikīkī Beach Walk® is the Hawaiian
backyard origins onto the stage, performing for both local
Hawaiian Grammys, the Na Hoku Hanohano Awards, a main-
Music Hall of Fame Exhibit, a 50-foot-
audiences and the growing number of visitors coming to
stay on the local cultural scene.
long timeline encompassing major
the Islands. Classics like My Little Grass Shack (Johnny
Some look back at the ’20s or ’30s as a Golden Age. Others
highlights of Hawai‘i’s musical evolution.
Noble), Waikīkī (Andy Cummings) Lovely Hula Hands (R.
see the present as a continuation of that epoch. Like the
Learn about the “courting” flute, the
Alex Anderson) and The Hawaiian Wedding Song (Charles
Islands, Hawaiian music evolves with diverse musical styles
‘ukulele, and King David Kalākaua and
E. King) spoke of aloha and romance, beautiful moments
linked by cultural memory and, increasingly, composed
his royal siblings known as the “Royal
and places, popularized by the ‘ukulele, steel guitar, bass and
and performed in the lyrical language of Hawai‘i’s native
Fours.” The mauka (mountain) corridor
piano of the typical Hawaiian quartet.
people. Stellar talents like Henry Kapono, Keali‘i Reichel, Amy
offers a display that honors musicians,
Hānaiali‘i, Makana, Jack Johnson and Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole
poets, instrumentalists and singers who
than 1.5-million servicemen, while the growth of tourism pro-
have broadened contemporary Hawaiian music’s appeal,
have helped perpetuate and translate
vided a catalyst to the already developing interest in a revival
extending a long creative tradition into the future.
the music into what is heard today.
The war in the Pacific introduced Hawaiian music to more
Using a slider, steel guitarists press on their strings, which are loosened, or “slackened,” to produce an open chord when strummed. In contrast, Henry “the Wild Hawaiian” Kapono plays his guitar in a more contemporary style.
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57
Jam Sessions Talented musicians perform nightly at Kani Ka Pila Grille at Outrigger Reef on the Beach. She’s tutu (grandmother) to some and aunty to all. Dressed in a red-and-brown print dress and wearing a haku lei, Luana Maitland looks right at home at Kani Ka Pila Grille. Every Wednesday for the past four years, the Honolulu native can be seen greeting guests as they settle in to hear the lilting sounds of Cyril Pahinui, Jeff Au Hoy and Peter Moon Jr. “Uncle Cyril has never missed a Wednesday,” smiles Maitland, events and activities manager for the Outrigger Reef on the Beach. “He even once turned down a chance to play in Paris because he wouldn’t be able to get back in time.” When the property concluded a multimillion dollar facelift six years ago, Outrigger executives wanted to perpetuate a sense of Hawaiiana at the hotel, commissioning the canoe hale
courtesy outrigger.com
design at the porte cochère and ocean voyaging paintings by
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“This is home; this is where we practice; this is where we perform. We keep it real local Hawaiian music, which people from all over the world come to hear.” — Cyril Pahinui
renowned artist Herb Kane, followed by the introduction of cultural programs and local music. Kani Ka Pila Grille satisfied the latter. The venue attracts such Na Hoku Hanohano-award-winning artists as Pahinui, Sean Na‘auao, Kuana Torres Kahele, Weldon Kekauoha, Kawika Kahiapo, Mike Kaawa, Jeff Rasmussen and Kamakakehau Fernandez. This caliber of talent is rarely seen in Waikīkī let alone on a regular basis at this casual poolside venue. “There are so many Hawaiian artists that I wish we had more days in a week,” Maitland says. “Music draws our hotel guests but it also brings locals into Waikīkī. It’s a venue where people can always come back to.” For Pahinui, Kani Ka Pila Grille gives him the security that he’ll always have a place to play his music. “This is home; this is where we practice; this is where we perform,” Pahinui says. “We keep it real local Hawaiian music, which people from all over the world come to hear.” Kani Ka Pila Grille serves casual island cuisine from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, with live entertainment nightly from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. For schedule of entertainment, call 808.924.4992.
(Opposite page, clockwise, from top left) Local musician Kawika Kahiapo; Cyril Pahinui CDs for sale; tropical mai tai; bass guitarist. (This page, clockwise from top) Luana Maitland; tiki torch; Jeff Ah Hoy.
59
S P I R I T U A L VA L L E Y BY
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L E I G H
M A RC E L L O
PHOTO CREDIT
WA I M E A H O L D S A SAC R E D A N D P OW E R F U L P L AC E I N H AWA I I A N H I ST O RY
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61
M
other Nature controls the mood in Waimea Valley. When trade winds blow, they part the leaves, sometimes rattling seedpods, other times whistling through palm fronds. The sound of the river can turn from a gentle cascading hum to a raging tor-
rent of water. Carved by rain and wind from the flank of the Ko‘olau Mountain range some two million years ago, the valley provides a window into ancient history and culture. Composed of two natural borders, Keanaloa to the north and Kaluahole to the south, the area is part of the ahupua‘a (a land tenure that extends from the uplands to the sea) of Waimea, which is split in half by a third ridge, Kalāhe‘e. Its name derived from the surrounding fresh water (wai) that feeds the reddish (mea), iron-rich soils, Waimea was once inhabited by ali‘i (royalty) and kāhuna (priests), who chose to settle in the area because of its spiritual power, as well as the abundance of burial caves and heiau (temples). It was once believed that bathing in the crimson waters could cure the injured or sick. The main waterway, Kamananui, is found in the southern valley and begins in the mountains above Kahana and Punalu‘u, and empties into Waimea Bay. Within the lower elevations, two intermittent streams, Kamana‘iki (the smaller branch) and Kaiwikō‘ele (rattle bones), can only be seen flowing after heavy rainfall; they’re otherwise dry. Also spotted in the southern valley is a waterfall known to visitors as “Waimea Falls.” Because of its fertile floors, ample fresh water and nearby offshore fishing,
Known as “The Valley of the Priests,” Waimea is celebrated for its picturesque bluffs, its permanently flowing river and its deep bay. Within its 1,875 acres, visitors will find a collection of Hawaiian flora, a traditional Hawaiian living site, kū‘ula stones and the endangered ‘alae‘ula, a black water bird with a red shield that swims freely in the ponds.
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photo credit
Waimea Valley was among the earliest inhabited places in the Islands.
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63
Early Hawaiians developed a sophisticated agricultural system, which included a series of terraces and irrigation ditches that were necessary for the growth of taro, sweet potato, bananas and other crops. Meanwhile, the valley’s canopy of trees and
native bird easiest to spot is the endangered ‘alae‘ula, a black water bird with a red shield that has established populations in the surrounding ponds. Historically, Waimea is perhaps best known for its priestly associations, earning
verdant flora sheltered native species and wildlife, some of which can be found only
the nickname “Valley of the Priests,” circa 1090. During the 12th century, a great spiri-
in this 1,800-acre parcel of lush land and babbling brooks. With its range of habitats
tual leader named Pa‘ao arrived in Hawai‘i and introduced the use of stone terraces
stretching from the dry, salty sea shore to the cool, misty uplands, the property has
and walls for temples, as well as installed a priesthood that endured for centuries.
become home to three species of “Exceptional Trees,” a vast array of ferns, flowering
It is believed that the Hale O Lono Heiau near the entrance to the valley, along with
plants, invertebrates, birds and Hawai‘i’s only land mammal, the hoary bat.
the two other heiau flanking the cliffs above, bear witness to the religious changes
While competition from non-native plants, animals and disease have taken their toll on the wildlife in the valley throughout the centuries, Waimea is still one of the
brought by Pa‘ao. In a study conducted by the Archaeological Consultants of the Pacific (ACP) in
best places on O‘ahu to look for indigenous species. In addition to the many native
2003, principle investigator Joseph Kennedy summarized that Waimea Valley “is
plants growing in the gardens and grounds, a number of native Hawaiian animals
a cultural resource of the highest possible order ... There is no place quite like [it]
take up residence here. Four of the five species of ‘o‘opu, our only native freshwater
on the island of O‘ahu, and very few places in the entire archipelago can equal it
fish, thrive in Kamananui stream, along with several species of mollusk. Native
in terms of its religious associations, its preservation or its potential for answering
damselflies, dragonflies, fruit flies and other invertebrates also abound. Perhaps the
many questions about traditional Hawai‘i.”
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©Cameron Brooks/Photo Resource Hawaii; (this page from left) ©Mike Krywonski/PhotoResourceHawaii; ©Jack Jeffrey/Photo Resource Hawaii/Alamy
Waimea is still respected as a sacred and powerful valley. A priest no longer presides over the area, yet the power of its past leaders remains in the spirit of the valley.
(page 60) ©franco salmoiraghi/photo resource hawaii; (page 61) ©Adam Palmer/Photo Resource Hawaii/Alamy; (page 62-63 from left) ©Karl Weatherly/Alamy; ©Greg Vaughn/Alamy;
(Left) Located in the ahupua‘a (land section) of Waimea Valley, Hale o Lono dates back to 1470 AD, and is the only fully restored Hale o Lono in the state. (Below) Hawai‘i’s only land mammal, the hoary bat hangs from nearby branches. (Opposite) Waimea’s main waterway, Kamananui, is found in the southern valley.
After defeating Kalanikūpule, the chief of O‘ahu, in the bloody Battle of Nu‘uanu
garden were created, featuring endangered and native plants of Hawai‘i, as well as
in 1795, Kamehameha I gave religious control of Waimea to Hewahewa, one of his
exotics from around the world. Over 40 separate gardens exist today, serving as a
high chiefs. Following the death of Kamehameha in 1819, his successors would insti-
type of living museum and displaying more than 5,500 types of plants from over
tute key changes, beginning with the abolition of the traditional “kapu” system (rules
200 plant families and 1,000 genera.
of conduct) by Kamehameha II and Queen Ka‘ahumanu. In 1822, Hewahewa con-
Since 2008, Hi‘ipaka, LLC has been the steward and deed-holder of all 1,875 acres
verted to Christianity and assisted in the destruction of ki‘i (carved images), heiau
of Waimea Valley. The mission of this nonprofit is to preserve and perpetuate the
and other religious symbols throughout the Islands.
human, cultural and natural resources of Waimea for generations through education
“Hewahewa eventually came to live at Waimea around 1826 and ruled as its
and stewardship. With a weekly Farmers’ Market, summer concert series and the
chief,” Kennedy wrote in the October 2005 issue of Natural History magazine. “He
renovated Proud Peacock Restaurant, the valley is blossoming into its most radiant
died in 1837 and was buried in Waimea, where his grave can still be seen near the
time in nearly half a century and living up to its marketing tagline, “Where Hawai‘i
visitor center.”
Comes Alive.”
Since the mid- to late-1800s, the lands of Waimea have traded hands many
“Waimea Valley’s past has taken many turns as its inhabitants have come and gone, and its landscape has been used, exploited and modified,” Kennedy asserts.
Ranchers introduced cattle. In World War II, the military took up residence. The
“Despite the many changes, Waimea is still respected today as a sacred and power-
1960s saw tourism enter the valley and, in 1973, a 150-acre arboretum and botanical
ful valley and recognized as a place filled with history.”
©David Schrichte/PhotoResourceHawaii
times. Pineapple and sugar were cultivated. Japanese farmers set up camp.
THE OUTRIGGER JOURNEY
65
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HAWOR_140900_ThaiFood.indd 68
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su r fac e
l i b r a ry
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T h a i f o o d i s b a s e d o n a b a l a n c e o f s p i c y, s o u r , s w e e t, s a l t y a n d b i t t e r .
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With a native Thai chef leading the way on a culinary tour of the streets of Thailand, I learned that “spicy” is a relative term. What we deem as fiery in the Western hemisphere is actually mild to most of the residents in this “Land of Smiles.” And there’s a lot to grin about when delving into this Southeast Asian cuisine. As my guide, Joy Chaowasaree, explains, Thai food is based on a balance of spicy, sour, sweet, salty and bitter, combined with the use of fresh herbs and spices, as well as a good dose of fish sauce. And because of the influences of such neighboring countries as China, Laos, Burma and Malaysia, Thai cuisine can vary by region. For three days, Chaowasaree and I explored the different restaurants, making sure not to repeat certain dishes except for rice, which was a constant. With their ivory hue and effervescent perfume, these pearly grains are a key component to any Thai repast, including breakfast. In fact, as Chaowasaree points out, if you say you are hungry, you literally say, “I want to eat rice.” At varying restaurants, we shared orders of the khao phat or “fried rice,” which is garnished with pork or chicken, chilies and fish sauce; khao tom, a popular breakfast salty porridge-like soup that is prepared with pork and garlic; and khao niaw, “sticky rice,” which is eaten by hand when served with dishes of Northeastern influence, such (Opening spread) Red Thai curry. (Second spread) Jasmine-scented Thai desserts and spicy beef salad. (This spread) Thai iced tea is mixed with condensed milk, which gives it a pinkish hue. Typical ingredients include ginger, peppers, kaffir lime and lemongrass.
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as grilled chicken (gai yang) and spicy papaya salad (som tam). In keeping with the communal dining theme, we ordered what is perhaps the most internationally recognized Thai salad, som tam, which is technically a dish of Lao origin, and is most popular in Northeastern Thailand. Unlike Western salads, a Thai salad is often among the spiciest dishes and is traditionally garnished with chili, lime and nam pla (fish sauce). Milder options include the yam som-o, a salad based on the pommels, a fruit similar to, but less sour than, a grapefruit; yam neua, a Thai beef salad served with tomatoes and onions; and yam wonsan, a glass noodle and shrimp salad. While tap water is not generally recommended for consumption, ice is relatively safe in Thailand and bottled water is ubiquitous and inexpensive. Thai beer is another option and is fairly inexpensive. For a refreshing nonalcoholic beverage, try Thai ice tea, which is made with condensed milk, giving it a pinkish orange hue and sweet flavor. Main Attractions While noodle dishes are quite common in Thailand (an influence brought by Chinese migrants) most Thai dishes are stir-fried or grilled. Fish (blah), pork (moo), beef (neua), and chicken (gai) can all be prepared in a several ways, and each is typically cut Commonly served as a street food and at casual local eateries, pad Thai noodles are stir-fried with eggs and chopped firm tofu, and flavored with tamarind pulp, fish sauce, dried shrimp, garlic or shallots, red chili pepper and palm sugar, and served with lime wedges and often chopped roasted peanuts.
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A BLEND OF ASIAN flavorS Thai food is based on a balance of spicy, sour, sweet, salty and bitter, combined with the use of fresh herbs and spices, as well as a good dose of fish sauce. Thai cooking places emphasis on lightly prepared dishes with a spicy edge. And because of the influences of such neighboring countries as China, Laos, Burma and Malaysia, Thai cuisine can vary by region.
into bite-size morsels and stir-fried with
spicy red pork (moo daeng) or chicken
such spices as garlic, chili and/or basil.
on the bone. Noodles also come in a
Most restaurants will also serve whole
wide array of shapes and sizes, includ-
fish, which requires some dexterity in
ing “small” (sen lek), “large” (sen yai), an-
filleting at the table. I left this task to
gel hair (sen mee) and extra large (gway
Chaowasaree, whose knife skills are akin
tiow). Most are made of rice, though egg
to that of a Japanese sushi chef.
noodles (ba mee) and mungbean-based
Since Thai meals are traditionally
glass noodles are equally widespread.
served family style, with all diners sharing entrees, a Thai curry or soup is often
Sweet Sensation Across Thailand, the
ordered with a meal. The consistency of
street-food scene bustles with vendors
each Thai curry varies widely, with some
showcasing their delicacies via motor-
curries arguably classifiable as soups.
bike, in rattan baskets, at stainless steel
However, most Thai curries are coconut
carts and hawker stalls. In addition to sa-
milk-based and some are spicier than
vory dishes, desserts abound, including
others. Gaeng massaman is a mild,
the popular banana pancakes, which are
peanut and potato curry; gaeng kiaw
made from flour and egg then cooked
wan (Thai green curry) offers a slightly
on a hot plate and garnished with con-
viscous consistency with a little more
densed milk. Certain hawkers will hang
kick; and gaeng daeng (red curry) offers
bright orange strings, which are actually
a thinner, spicier option. Tom kha, a mild
made from egg yolks. Others will offer
coconut soup, blurs the lines between
deep-fried bananas, taro and sweet
soup and curry, while tom yam kung, is
potato. For a cool treat, try a mixture of
the quintessential Thai soup, which is
corn, red beans and yam paste noodles,
often blisteringly hot.
all topped with shaved ice.
Unlike other communal plates, Thai
sell dozens of different chilled fruits,
portions. The ubiquitous pad Thai is
offering sliced ponelamai (fruit) for
the most familiar and can be found at
as little as 10 baht per serving. Fruits
many street stalls that specialize in this
include the familiar: banana, pineapple,
dish. Other stir-fried specialties include
watermelon and papaya; as well as the
rad naa and gway tiow, each served
exotic, such as dragon fruit, pear-shaped
with slices of beef, chicken or pork then
chompu, pungent durian, mangosteen,
kicked up with dried chilies, fish sauce,
rambutan, kumquats and jackfruit.
vinegar and sugar. When not fried, strands are steeped in soup, either with
RICE: THE STAPLE OF THAI CUISINE Like other Asian nations, rice is a staple with any meal. Recipes include everything from vegetarian fried rice and savory coconut rice to sticky rice and even rice salad. Thailand has the fifth-largest amount of land under rice cultivation in the world and is the globe’s second-largest rice exporter.
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From beaches to sidewalk, vendors
noodle dishes are served as individual
In Thai, khao means “rice” and phat means “of relating to being stir-fried.” A staple of Thai cuisine, khao phat is prepared with leftover jasmine rice, which can be garnished with bits of pork or chicken, cashews, cucumbers, green onions, red hot chilies and fish sauce.
As they say in Thailand, Choen Thaan Krup. Let the feast begin!
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Taste of Waikīkī Dining options abound, from Pacific Rim cuisine to classic American steakhouse fare. Over the past decade, the Waikīkī dining scene has transformed itself with restaurants offering everything from in-house, dry-aged steaks and award-winning sushi to modern iterations of the traditional Hawaiian luau plate and Korean kal bi. Yet, while change is certainly welcomed, a few restaurants have long been the stalwarts for Pacific Rim cuisine.
Duke’s Waikīkī Whether you’re sitting at the bar or seated in the dining room, this Waikīkī institution offers panoramic ocean views, live music and a menu that pays tribute to our local bounty. Fresh Hawaiian fish is prepared according to the season: either grilled with a cilantro-and-miso glaze, and served with tropical salsa, steamed rice and cucumber namasu; or served between Hawaiian sweet bread and slathered with a lemon-caper aioli. And you can’t leave here without a slice of Kimo’s Original Hula Pie. Be sure to arrive early to catch the sunset and then stick around at the Barefoot Bar for live entertainment. 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Outrigger Waikīkī on the Beach, 808.922.2268;
(Clockwise, from left) Try Duke’s Waikīkī macadamianut- encrusted catch of the day. Many restaurants offer a version of poke. Order the Eggs Benedict at Ocean House and then return to sip on a mai tai as the sun dips into the Pacific.
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courtesy outrigger.com
open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner; dukeswaikiki.com.
In 1991, when a dozen celebrated chefs established a movement known as Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine (HRC), it was seen as a shift in the local culinary paradigm. Kani Ka Pila Grille In English, Kani Ka Pila translates to “let’s make music,” which some of Hawai‘i’s top entertainers do on stage here nightly from 6 to 9 p.m. The poolside venue also offers a straightforward menu of some local favorites, including lilikoi barbecue ribs, hearty beef stew, loco moco and an English-style fish ‘n’ chips platter, which substitutes halibut or cod with pieces of mahimahi that have been dipped in a thick beer batter and deep-fried to a golden hue. The restaurant’s premise was not just to provide a venue with great music, but to give real Hawaiian music a place it could call home. Outrigger Reef on the Beach, 2169 Kalia Road, 808.924.4990; open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; outriggerreef.com.
Ocean House Listen to the waves and watch the sun set at this beachfront restaurant. The menu lists a cornucopia of seafood entrees, including lilikoi-misoyaki butterfish, grilled mahimahi, parmesan-crusted opah and Chinese-style steamed monchong. Creatively presented is the seafood lau lau, a ti leaf bundle with bits of mahimahi, shrimp and scallops. Come early for breakfast and try the Eggs Benedict. Outrigger Reef on the Beach, 2169 Kalia Road, 808.923.2277; serving breakfast from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. and dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; oceanhousewaikiki.com.
The Signature Prime Steak & Seafood Combine “signature” and “prime” and guests can anticipate what to expect: well-marbled premium cuts of beef. From filets and rib eyes to Porterhouses and New York striploins, this 36th floor venue offers an upscale steakhouse experience. Of course, any veritable steakhouse has to have some form of mac-and-cheese (this one includes bits of lobster), mashed potatoes (infused with truffles), creamed something (here corn) and the mandatory sautéed mushrooms. (Clockwise from left) Start dinner with ahi sashimi at The Signature Prime Steak & Seafood. An Ocean House server offers a choice between seafood entrees. The kalua pork sandwich is popular during lunch at Duke’s Waikīkī.
Other sides include garlic fries, baked Russet potatoes and blanched asparagus. The seafood options list Maine lobster, Hawaiian snapper, miso butterfish, Alaskan king crab legs, salmon and New England sea scallops. Ala Moana Hotel, 36th Floor, 410 Atkinson Drive, 808.949.3636; open nightly from 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; signatureprimesteak.com
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PHOTO CREDIT
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D E S T I N AT I O N S
Hawai‘i As the northernmost and most isolated chain of islands in the Pacific, the Hawaiian archipelago is made up of eight major islands, including O‘ahu, Maui, Kaua‘i, The Big Island of Hawai‘i, Lana‘i, Moloka‘i, Ni‘ihau and Kaho‘olawe.
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d e s t i n at i o n s
O‘ahu Living up to its reputation as the “Gathering Place,” O‘ahu is the third-largest of the Hawaiian Islands and is the most populous.
Spanning 44 miles long and 30 miles across, O‘ahu is the cosmopolitan mecca of the island chain, while also retaining its title as the sun and fun capital of the Pacific. Its contrasting geography ranges from scenic coastlines and dense forests to award-winning beaches and a natural ocean preserve. Surrounded by tropical While only 2 miles long, Waikīkī is perhaps the world’s most famous strip of sand. Translated, Waikīkī means “spouting water,” a reference to the rivers and springs that once richly flowed into the area.
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photo credit
flora and warm smiles, the island lives up to its reputation as the “Gathering Place.”
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d e s t i n at i o n s
O ‘a h u
OutriggeR® Waikīkī on the Beach
Outrigger® Reef on the Beach
Outrigger® Waikīkī on the Beach wel-
This lovely retreat features deluxe
comes travelers to a luxurious hotel
accommodations, timeless traditions
experience on Waikīkī Beach. As the
and elegant style in a distinctive Waikīkī
powdery shores and tranquil teal blue
resort experience. Home to two res-
waters are just steps away from your
taurants, a full-service spa and nightly
guestroom, Outrigger® Waikīkī on the
entertainment at Kani Ka Pila Grille,
Beach is an enduring tradition that
the property is located in the heart of
captures the aura of Waikīkī unlike
the Waikīkī Beach Walk® shopping and
any other hotel.
dining district.
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©DALLAS NAGATA WHITE; (page 83) ©Cameron Brooks; (this page from left) ©miya227/shutterstock; ©EpicStockMedia/shutterstock
O‘ahu Millions of visitors descend on our shores to enjoy our beaches, shops and restaurants.
(page 80) ©dallas nagata white; (page 82, clockwise from top left) ©Brown W. Cannon III/Intersection Photos; ©Linny morris; ©rachel olsson;
Located a short distance outside of Waikīkī, Ala Moana Beach Park is ideal for swimming, unlike the waters that rage during winter months on the fabled North Shore.
d e s t i n at i o n s
O ‘a h u
Thanks to the geology of the Ko‘olau and Wai‘anae mountain ranges, O‘ahu is home to more than 130 beaches. Waikīkī
is ideal for sunbathing, and beginners’ surfing and paddling. Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine has attraced national attention.
o‘ahu Destinations by Outrigger® Resorts OHANA Waikīkī Malia
OHANA Waikīkī West
Enjoy a vacation without breaking
The accomodations at the Ohana
Need some wheels to get around the
the bank as the Ohana Waikīkī East
Waikīkī Malia provide options for large
city? Ohana Waikīkī West provides guests
Located in the heart of the Waikīkī
brings you the best of what Waikīkī is
groups, offering connecting rooms or
with a pass to board on the Waikīkī
Beach Walk shopping and dining
known for. As it sits on the corner of
one-bedroom kitchenettes suitable for
Trolley and sightsee throughout the city.
district and steps to Waikīkī Beach,
Kūhiō and Ka‘iulani avenues, Ohana
four guests. For a nice breakfast before
However, with the grocery store and
this all-suite resort features spacious
Waikīkī East is minutes away from
you head out for the day, visit the on-
kitchenettes available within the hotel,
one- and two-bedroom suites with
shops, restaurants and sandy shores.
site IHOP restaurant downstairs.
you may never have to or want to leave.
micro-kitchens.
Best Western The Plaza Hotel
Ala Moana Hotel
Holiday Inn® Waikīkī Beachcomber resort
Airport Honolulu Hotel
Located between Honolulu and Whether traveling for business or
Waikīkī, and adjacent to Ala Moana
Holiday Inn® Hotel’s flagship city
A half-mile from Honolulu Interna-
leisure, BEST WESTERN The Plaza
Center and the Hawai‘i Convention
resort is situated in the heart of
tional Airport, this hotel offers modern
Hotel is the perfect Honolulu Interna-
Center, this full-service hotel offers
Waikīkī. It features upgraded guest
guest rooms, a pool, a fitness center, a
tional Airport hotel to call home while
contemporary guest rooms with ocean
rooms and lobby, swimming pool and
restaurant, a sundries store and con-
visiting O‘ahu. This pet-friendly hotel
and city views. The property features
sun deck. Just 300 steps to Waikīkī
ference rooms. Perfect for business or
provides easy access to the area’s
restaurants, expansive meeting spac-
Beach, the hotel is home to the Magic
leisure travelers, this pet-friendly hotel
es, and business and fitness centers.
of Polynesia show.
offers free 24-hour airport shuttle.
most popular destinations, including the historic Pearl Harbor Memorial.
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(from left) ©Alan Sheldon/shutterstock; ©FoodCollection/superstock
Embassy Suites®— Waikīkī Beach Walk®
OHANA Waikīkī East
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d e s t i n at i o n s
O ‘a h u
Adventure seekers jump from rocks into the ocean (although this is not advised). Hikers can scale the Ka‘iwa Ridge Trail — also known as the Lanikai Pillbox — which leads to sweeping windward coast views.
Waikīkī Shore by Outrigger®
Regency Beachwalk by Outrigger®
These spacious vacation rentals fea-
Regency Beachwalk by Outrigger®
ture sweeping ocean views that span
brings fresh contemporary style to
O‘ahu’s south shore. Family-friendly
Waikīkī. Each guest is ensured a pri-
appointments including in-room
vate, privileged experience amid the
washer and dryer, kitchen options,
pleasures of Waikīkī. Every well-ap-
and free Internet access make
pointed suite offers a kitchen, modern
Waikīkī Shore by Outrigger® a com-
art, hardwood floors, and a large lanai
fortable choice for extended stays.
to enjoy park and ocean views.
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©DALLAS NAGATA WHITE
o‘ahu Hawai‘i Vacation Condos by Outrigger®
d e s t i n at i o n s
Maui Known as the Valley Isle, Maui offers stunning contrasts between waterfalls and red sand beaches.
From Upcountry to the shoreline, rainforest to resorts, Maui is the island that has it all. The drive to Hāna, though, has to be one of the most spectacular experiences. The three-hour drive — if you’re leaving from Lahaina or Kīhei — stretches rainforests. You’ll find some of the island’s most striking beaches here: the black sand beach of Wai‘ānapanapa State Park, the dramatic red granules at Kaihalulu in Hāna, and Hāmoa Beach, which often nationally ranks among the best beaches.
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photo credit
along 50 miles over single-lane bridges, past taro patches, waterfall pools and lush
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d e s t i n at i o n s
maui
The second-largest in the Hawaiian archipelago, the island’s name is derived from the legend of
legend, Hawai‘iloa named the island of Maui after his son, who in turn was named for the demigod Māui. Today, the island is also known as the Valley Isle. A world away from beach resorts, the bucolic scenery in Upcountry Maui reflects its agricultural and paniolo (cowboy) roots. On the slopes of Haleakalā, you’ll drive by ranches and farms in the communities of Makawao and Kula. The air is scented with eucalyptus and pine; the forests of Olinda resound with birdsong. In the spring, jacaranda petals paint the road purple beneath the shade of their majestic trees. With 120 miles of coastline, Maui boasts more than 30 miles of spectacular beaches.
Long known for its charm and rustic storefronts, Upcountry Maui pays tribute to its paniolo, cowboy, heritage. South Maui beaches boast fine-grain sand and gently lapping surf conditions in the winter.
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(page 90, clockwise from top left) ©EpicStockMedia/shutterstock; ©Shane Myers Photography/shutterstock; ©rachel olsson; ©Brandon Tabiolo/superstock;
discovery of the Hawaiian Islands. According to
(page 91) ©Pacific Stock/Design Pics/superstock; (this page from left) ©nina kuna; ©Cultura Limited/superstock
Hawai‘iloa, the Polynesian navigator credited with
d e s t i n at i o n s
maui
Haleakalā majestically rises 10,023 feet above sea level and offers a winding odyssey of 36 miles of hiking trails. Dramatic and always scenic, Waihee Ridge Trail is lined with a verdant forest of kukui, guava, ōhi‘a and ferns.
Maui The Valley Isle rivals some of the top destinations in the world. Maui Eldorado Kā‘anapali by Outrigger® SM
An exclusive lifestyle awaits at Wailea
Nāpili Shores maui by Outrigger® Tall palms, shady monkey pod trees
Resort. The spacious residential-style
Situated along the hillside fairways
and fragrant plumeria blossoms
villas are designed for comfort with
of Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Course, these
enhance the lovely oceanfront setting
a full kitchen, dining area and large
inviting condos offer a low-rise, low-
of this casual vacation rental condo.
covered lanai. It’s a short drive to
key alternative to Kā‘anapali hotels.
The location offers spectacular views
galleries and luxury retailers at The
A private beach cabana provides an
of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i islands, and it
Shops at Wailea, sparkling beaches
exclusive deck for sunbathing and
is a tradition to ring the bayside bell
and a coastal path that invites morn-
boasts spectacular views of the west
when spotting a humpback whale
ing and evening strolls.
Maui coastline.
during winter months.
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©jarod powell
Palms at Wailea maui by Outrigger®
d e s t i n at i o n s
maui
ā‘ina nalu lahaina by Outrigger®
Royal Kahana maui by Outrigger®
Kapalua Villas maui by Outrigger®
This boutique condo is a serene
Kahana is the calm cousin to west
World-class golf courses are just steps
alternative to hotels on Lahaina’s busy
Maui’s high-profile destinations of
away from the doorstep of your north-
waterfront. The award-winning designs
Kā‘anapali and Kapalua Resorts. Royal
west Maui villa. This premier destination
of these residential-style condos are
Kahana Maui by Outrigger® takes full
offers fairway or panoramic ocean views,
reflected in details of Asian-inspired
advantage of its discreet beachfront
state-of-the-art appliances and modern
décor, open-air pavilion, cozy garden
location offering quiet, high-rise vaca-
decor. Kapalua Villas also offers zipline
gazebos and sleek infinity pool. The
tion rentals, most with sweeping views
tours, a 4-wheel-drive excursion and
calm surroundings welcome guests to
of the ocean and Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i
a 2,000-square-foot observation deck
relax, but it’s an easy drive to beaches,
islands. This condo is a short drive to
where you can enjoy breathtaking views
golf courses and family attractions.
historic Lahaina attractions.
of Maui, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i.
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(from left) ©idreamphoto/shutterstock; ©Maridav/shutterstock
Grand humpback whales can be seen breaching in the waters during winter months. Some of the island’s hiking trails wind in cycles of flat and steep plateaus that afford views of the valley and billowing clouds.
d e s t i n at i o n s
Hawai‘i Island With desert, volcanoes, rainforests and several microclimates, Hawai‘i is several islands in one.
Hawai‘i, The Big Island, offers stunning landscapes, from its black beaches and fertile farms, to babbling waterfalls and old cowboy towns, to ancient sacred sites and, of course, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, home of the fiery goddess Pele. the world’s largest observatory for optical, infrared and submillimeter astronomy. Mauna Kea is one of the only places in the world where you can drive from sea level to 14,000 feet in about two hours, so altitude sickness is a high possibility.
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photo credit
Atop the 13,779-foot summit of Mauna Kea, the Institute for Astronomy houses
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d e s t i n at i o n s
h a w a i ‘i i s l a n d
As the largest island, Hawai‘i, the Big Island has 200 miles of coastline to explore. And as the youngest island, much of this shoreline still wears the ragged scars of their recent volcanic origin. Crystal clear waters offer amazing snorkeling at Kahalu‘u Beach in Keauhou, home to pods of honu, or green sea turtles. Dazzling white sand beaches can be found on the west side at Hapuna and Mauna Kea, both chosen as some of America’s best by Stephen “Dr. Beach” Leatherman. Other beaches display sands of black, green and every color in between. A favorite for families, Samuel Spencer Beach Park on
at Onekahakaha Beach, with shallow pools and sandy bottoms. For beaches wild or mild, the Big Island has them all.
(From left) Pu‘uhonua O Hōnaunau National Historical Park contains some of the most significant Hawaiian sites. The Big Island has a rich paniolo, or Hawaiian cowboy, culture that dates back to the 1800s.
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(page 99) ©LOOK-foto/superstock; (this page from left) ©radoslaw lecyk/shutterstock; ©nina kuna
paddling. Hilo offers another family-friendly strand
(page 98, clockwise from left) ©Maridav/shutterstock; ©Neophuket/shutterstock; ©OLIVIER KONING; ©Nomad/superstock;
the Kohala Coast offers calm waters for stand-up
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d e s t i n at i o n s
h a w a i ‘i i s l a n d
(From left) Home of the fiery goddess Pele, Kīlauea Volcano has been creating new land while alternately devouring homes and roads since its most recent eruption in 1983. The Big Island’s beaches vary in composition and color.
Kanaloa at Kona BY Outrigger®
Fairway Villas waikoloa by Outrigger®
Royal Sea Cliff kona by Outrigger®
The quintessential Kona lifestyle is
Fairway Villas Waikoloa by Outrigger
Sweeping views of the Kona Coast
offered at this 18-acre setting overlook-
in Waikoloa Beach Resort is a gated
are just one of the benefits of Royal
Elegant town homes and villas await
ing Keauhou Bay. Nestled in a quiet,
community of low-rise vacation rental
Sea Cliff Kona by Outrigger. Rising
at Waikoloa Beach Resort and Mauna
gated community, tall coconut palms
condos offering beautifully furnished
high above the sea on a dramatic lava
Lani Resort on the Kohala Coast.
surround the low-rise vacation rental
units. An infinity pool and poolside
rock bluff, the location is terraced
Surrounded by championship golf
accommodations. Roomy, breeze-
picnic areas invite guests to entertain
to capture ocean vistas from many
courses, oceanfront scenery and the
cooled condos are fully furnished and
outdoors amid the flawless weather
of its spacious condos. These family-
backdrop of magnificent snow-capped
feature covered lanai to enjoy ocean
of the Kohala Coast. The property is
friendly vacation apartments are
Mauna Loa, these contemporary, resi-
views. Attractions in nearby Kona
steps away from specialty stores and
fully furnished and comfortable
dential-style vacation rentals welcome
Town are a short drive away.
various restaurants.
for long stays.
you to relax in spacious comfort.
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Kohala Coast Condos Hawai‘i Island by Outrigger®
(from left) ©philip rosenberg; ©Marc Turcan/shutterstock
hawai‘i island A place of superlatives, deep beauty and culture.
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Kaua‘i Geologically the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands, Kaua‘i is also known among local residents as the Garden Isle.
Kaua‘i’s story as a place apart begins with tales of the menehune. Elfin in size, but master builders, prodigious of strength and speed, they were credited with construction on a grand scale. It is on Kaua‘i where tales of menehune are widely arrived from the Marquesas, a chain of islands about 2,000 miles southeast of Hawai‘i. Several centuries later, the Marquesans were followed by Polynesians from the islands of Ra‘iatea and Bora Bora in the Tahitian archipelago. The Marquesan
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photo credit
told, perhaps a link to a time 16 or 17 centuries ago when the first settlers to Kaua‘i
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Hawaiians were subjugated by the larger, more numerous Tahitians. The Tahitian word for a slave is manehune so it’s an easy-to-make transition to menehune. Mythic history also links Kaua‘i to the volcano goddess Pele and her love for the handsome Kaua‘i ali‘i (chief) Lohiau, whom she met while visiting Kaua‘i as she searched the islands for a congenial home. It was while she was on Kaua‘i that the hula was first danced, performed at Pele’s request by her younger sister Hi‘iaka, whose dances told of Pele’s tempestuous life and her love for Lohiau. Today, these myths endure and are continuously retold by storytellers. Yet for all that has changed, Kaua‘i retains the unique sense of a
From shoreline to mountains, the Garden Isle does not disappoint. Accessible only by sea, Nāpali’s razor-sharp sea cliffs rise to heights of up to 4,000 feet. Colorful flora bloom throughout the year.
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(page 107) ©Marisa Estivill/shutterstock; (this page from left) ©JAROD POWELL; ©Pavel Tvrdy/shutterstock
storied mix of myth and history.
(page 106, left) ©Nickolay Stanev/shutterstock; (page 106, top) ©Steve Heap/shutterstock; (others) ©JAROD POWELL;
place apart, separated by both the ocean and a
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k a u a‘i
Waipouli Beach Resort & Spa Kaua‘i by Outrigger®
Lae nani resort kaua‘i by Outrigger®
Kiahuna Plantation Resort Kaua‘i by Outrigger®
Tall coconut palms gracefully sway
This 35-acre garden setting on
Outrigger® Waipouli Beach Resort
over this quiet oceanfront setting on
Kōloa Beach is a lovely location for
and Spa rivals the best Kaua‘i hotels
Kaua‘i’s eastern shore. These low-rise
family vacationing. The low-key
for luxury accommodations and easy
vacation condos welcome laid-back
atmosphere is enhanced by swaying
access to island attractions. These
loungers, as well as active adventure-
palms, shady monkeypod trees and
beautiful condos are superbly
seekers who need a central island
fragrant plumeria blossoms. Kiahuna
appointed with gourmet kitchens
location to access the island’s many
Plantation Resort Kaua‘i by Outrig-
and spacious baths. The resort’s
nature attractions. Lae Nani Resort
ger’s orchid and succulent gardens
central feature is a 2-acre, free-form
Kaua‘i by Outrigger® provides a fresh-
are well-known local attractions.
swimming pool with flumed water
water swimming pool and sea-water
The comfy cottage-style condos are
slides and cascading waterfalls.
wading pool for relaxing.
breeze-cooled and casually inviting.
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(from left) ©JAROD POWELL; ©Lynn Watson/shutterstock
kaua‘i Where natural beauty inspires the imagination.
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Top 5 O‘ahu A quick glance at some of O‘ahu’s more popular sights, activities and attractions.
2. Bishop Museum
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Located in Honolulu’s Kalihi district, this recently renovated museum is the world’s most significant repository of Pacific and Polynesian artifacts, an imposing stone structure with more than 25 million artifacts in its collection. The museum is more than 100 years old and includes a planetarium and science center, the newly renovated Hawaiian Hall and precious artifacts from pre-contact times. 1525 Bernice St., 808.847.3511, bishopmuseum.org.
3. Pali Lookout Perched 1,000 feet over the dramatic peaks of the Ko‘olau Mountain Range, the overlook from these pali (cliffs) gives you an unparalleled view of the valleys, mountains and turquoise waters of O‘ahu’s windward side. At the Pali Lookout, you’re on top of the world. The view and the strong gusts of wind, a signature of the Nu‘uanu Pali, let you know that this is a place of power. Off of Pali Hwy. (Hwy. 61).
4. Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve Snorkelers of all levels of experience can explore this marine life conservation area. Stunning from the lookout and staggering once in the water, the turtles, sea urchins, eels and a living coral forest are pure underwater spectacles. Visitors can rent equipment and lockers at the beach and are required to watch an educational video before entering the park. Open daily except Tuesdays. Parking: $1 per car. General $7.50, children 12 and under and Hawai‘i residents free with proof of residency. 7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., 808.396.4229, honolulu.gov/parks.
5. Pearl Harbor The USS Arizona Memorial’s graceful structure spans the mid-section of this sunken ship, which remains the final resting place for many of her 1,177 crew who perished December 7, 1941. The Visitor Center is an all new collection of museums, interpretive centers and shops. As soon as you arrive, get the free boarding tickets for the memorial. Shuttles also leave the Visitor Center for the USS Missouri and the Pacific Aviation Museum. 808.422.3300, nps.gov/valr.
(clockwise from top) ©Stock Connection; ©Roger Fletcher/Alamy; ©Petronilo G. Dangoy Jr./Shutterstock; ©iStock; courtesy OF The Bishop Museum
1. Makapu‘u LIGHTHOUSE For a relatively easy hike that boasts spectacular views, be sure to trek the Makapu‘u Lighthouse Trail. This twomile (round trip) hike is kid-friendly and paved, except at the very top. Following the trail to the whale lookout, you can read about our winter visitors, and may be able to spot them in season (October-April). Nearing the summit, stop at the overlook for views of Goat Island, Rabbit Island and Windward O‘ahu. On the clearest of days, you can see Moloka‘i and Maui.
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Top 5 Maui 1. HaleakalĀ Known as the “House of the Sun,” Haleakalā majestically rises 10,023 feet above sea level and offers a winding odyssey of 36 miles of hiking trails, which open to fascinating landscapes. As the world’s largest dormant volcano, Haleakalā’s crater measures 3,000 feet deep, 2.5 miles wide and a circumference of 21 miles. Be sure to watch the sunrise from atop Haleakalā’s summit. Call 808.572.440 for park information.
2. ‘Īao Valley
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Central Maui’s iconic landmark is ‘Īao Needle, a 1,200-foot cone of hardened lava at the heart of a 6.2-acre state park just west of Wailuku. The Needle rises out of a dramatic tableau of streams and sharp cliffs in thick vegetation, often shrouded in mist. The valley and its signature peak are the remains of Pu‘u Kukui, the crater of a dormant volcano in the West Maui Mountains. ‘Īao Stream (fed by up to 400 inches of rain per year) cuts through the valley, and there are excellent hiking trails throughout the park. It is said that the bones of many chieftains are buried in the vicinity of the needle. The end of ‘Īao Valley Road. (Hwy. 32).
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A volcanic crater almost carved into a crescent shape by nature, Molokini sits just more than two miles off of the southern coast of Maui. More specifically, the island is located south of Maui’s Ma‘alaea Bay and lies between the Valley Isle and nearby Kaho‘olawe. Potential snorkelers should note that the island is essentially divided into the right and left
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Tips. There are fine diving spots on both tips, known as Reef’s End, Middle Reef and Tako Flats. The center of Molokini is home to a reef that provides great views for snorkelers, since visibility can be up to 150 feet on a clear day. molokini.com.
4. Road to Hāna This three-hour drive (from Lāhainā or Kīhei) stretches along 50 curvy miles over single- lane bridges, past taro patches, waterfall pools and lush rainforests. Hāna Highway is the only road that connects the town with the rest of the island. Hāna itself is magnificent, and so is getting there.
5. Seven Sacred Pools A series of cascading waterfalls and tranquil pools flow through the ‘Ohe‘o Gulch, which is the official name for this attraction. The terraced cold springs in East Maui rival any natural day spa. Trickling water spills over tiers of lava beds, creating up to 24 distinct pools that flow from the mountains all the way to the ocean. The nicest pools to reach are those accessible by shoreline. This aquatic-land playground offers visitors a chance to witness cliff-diving enthusiasts, as well as explore the surrounding foliage and hiking trails.
(clockwise from top) ©Ivan Cholakov/Shutterstock; ©Pacific Stock/Design Pics; ©Donna Hayden/Shutterstock; ©Tor Johnson/hta; ©Pierre Leclerc/Shutterstock
Maui offers stunning contrasts between moonlike craters and world-class snorkeling.
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Top 5 Kaua‘i 1. Nāpali Coast A single photo in a 1960 National Geographic article on Hawai‘i unveiled a lush valley shielded by 3,000-foot cliffs to a generation hungry for just such a place. The caption read: “Nāpali’s towering cliffs wall a Shangri-la valley accessible only by sea … Junglelike glens tucked amid the ridges offer an unspoiled world for the adventurous.” Indeed, the haunting, spiked peaks snake down Kaua‘i’s north coast for 16 colorful miles. Inaccessible by vehicle, Nāpali is seen by ocean craft, air or on foot.
2. Wailua River and Fern Grotto 1
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Flowing from the crater of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, the Wailua River is sacred to Native Hawaiians and it was once kapu (taboo) for anyone except for royalty to enter. Nowadays, the river can be explored by kayak or via a cruise aboard an open-air boat. Most boat excursions end at Fern Grotto, which is known primarily as the most romantic spot on the island. This natural lavarock grotto is lush with hanging ferns and tropical foliage, cooled by the mists of a waterfall. In this serene setting, the grotto acts like a natural amphitheatre.
3. Kīlauea Point Wildlife Sanctuary
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The dramatic backdrop of steep cliffs plunging to the ocean is one of the best places across the Hawaiian Islands to view wildlife. Perched upon Kaua‘i’s northernmost point, the Daniel K. Inouye Kīlauea Point Lighthouse at Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
once guided merchant ships crossing the ocean from Asia. Built in 1913, it was fitted with the largest lens of its time, and is now one of the island’s most scenic and popular destinations. At the end of Kīlauea Road. For more information, call 808.828.1413.
4. Waimea Canyon Hailed as “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” this geological wonder spans 14 miles long, one mile wide and more than 3,600-feet deep. The main road, Waimea Canyon Drive, leads to a lower lookout point and the main Waimea Canyon Overlook, which offers unobstructed views of Kaua‘i’s dramatic interior. The road continues into the mountains and ends at Kōke‘e State Park, the launching point of numerous trails to traverse for beginners and seasoned hikers alike. Call 808.245.6001 for the latest weather information.
5. Hanalei Valley Kalo, taro, is not just a food staple, it’s also beautiful to behold, with large, heart-shaped leaves called lū‘au leaves. A postcard-perfect view on Kaua‘i’s north shore takes in a patchwork of lo‘i, taro fields, from an overlook on Highway 56. Native Hawaiians cultivated kalo for centuries, and today most of Hawai‘i’s poi comes from Hanalei Valley. Several hundred acres within this valley are a protected wildlife refuge where native bird populations thrive. Be sure to visit Waipā, a place so sacred that its very name means “a prayer to the gods.”
(clockwise from top) ©Mint Images; ©David P. Smith/Shutterstock; ©Joe West/ Shutterstock; ©Don Landwehrle/Shutterstock; ©Pacific Stock/Design Pics
The oldest among the Islands, Kaua‘i boasts a topography of sharp peaks and steep bluffs.
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Top 5 Big Island 1. Pu‘uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park Also known as the “Place of Refuge,” this storied piece of lava-walled shoreline served as a sanctuary of forgiveness and protection in pre-contact Hawai‘i. This foreboding-looking pu‘uhonua at Honaunau Bay — south of Captain Cook — protected lawbreakers and warriors who made it to safety within its walls. Once there, they could plead their case to a kahuna (priest or elder) in hopes of absolution. On Hwy. 160, 808.328.2288. nps.gov/puho.
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Home of the fiery goddess Pele, Kīlauea Volcano has been creating new land while alternately devouring homes and roads since its most recent eruption in 1983. As the most popular attraction among the Hawaiian Islands, thousands have seen its fiery glowing displays and walked through its otherworldly sulfuric clouds. The main lava pit, or caldera, is easily accessible by car on the Chain of Craters Road. The dynamic flow of lava constantly changes, so call or stop by the Kīlauea Visitor Center first to get the latest flow reports and lava viewing tips. Call 808.985.6000 or visit nps.gov/havo.
3. Puako Petroglyph Park
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While petroglyphs, or lava rock carvings, are found throughout the state, the largest concentrations are located north of the Mauna Lani Resort on the Kohala Coast. Although the actual meanings are unknown, you can make out human forms, families, dancers,
canoes, turtles and even dogs. The Mauna Lani Resort and the Waikoloa Beach Marriott both have historians who can direct you to the petroglyph trails beginning at Holoholokai Beach.
4. Manta Ray Night Snorkel and Dive First of all, these huge manta rays are gentle, and do not possess stinging barbs like their stingray cousins. As evening falls, tour boats gather and submerged lights illuminate the area where the mantas come to feed on plankton. Often frequenting the waters that front the Sheraton Kona Resort at Keauhou Bay, these giant creatures perform amazing maneuvers nightly as they scoop the tiny microscopic plankton into their mouths. There are various options to watch this underwater ballet — from scuba to snorkel or just viewing from the cliffs above the hotel. Like any wild creature, do not touch or feed these creatures. Simply to be in the water with these giants is surely an experience of a lifetime.
5. Pana‘ewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens Located north of Hilo, this is the only zoo in the country that’s set in a tropical rainforest. Besides an abundance of animals, this zoo has swaying palms, orchids and many endangered plants. The ever-expanding collection includes giant anteaters, tropical squirrels, lemurs and colorful birds, as well as frogs that resemble Martians. Admission is free, but donations can be left at the front entrance. Two miles north of Hilo on Hwy. 11, 808.959.7244. HiloZoo.
(clockwise from top) ©cleanfotos/shutterstock; ©Kirk Lee Aeder/hta; ©noppharat/shutterstock; ©nicolas.voisin44/shutterstock; ©tor johnson/hta
Seven main regions comprise the Big Island, with each possessing its own natural beauty.
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128 THE OUTRIGGER JOURNEY Photo credit Avenir 55 Roman 5.5/9 ptUlla feu faccumsan veraese dion hendre feugue magna consecte consenibh eu facin heniamcore tin ut ad er aute duis nim veleniam
D E S T I N AT I O N S
Asia Pacific The vast Asia Pacific territory includes much of East Asia, Southeast Asia and Oceania. In addition to its immense physical expanse, the region also presents a significant historical, cultural and ethnic diversity.
132 SOUTH EAST ASIA Phuket Phi Phi Islands 142 China/Vietnam
134 OCEANIA Fiji Guam Australia
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Asia Pacific The region extends from the Pacific Basin and South China Sea to the Indian Ocean. Named after the ancient voyaging canoe, OutriggerŽ Resorts welcomes travelers to the far reaches of the Pacific and Indian oceans. In Thailand, the resort community of Laguna Phuket is celebrated for its restaurants, the Canal Shopping Village and Laguna Phuket Golf Club. Accessible by ferry, Phi Phi Island sits between Phuket and the western Strait of Malacca. An Australian experience awaits along the Queensland Sunshine Coast, which beckons travelers with sparkling seashores and outdoor adventure. Guam visitors will want to explore the largest tunnel aquarium in the world, an attraction known as the Daring Sling Shot. The largest island in the Republic of Fiji, Viti Levu is comparable in size to The Big Island of Hawai‘i.
(Previous page) An Indian wedding ceremony. (This page, clockwise from left) Palm trees in Queensland. Cocktails in a bar and on a beach. Mist-covered canopy of trees near Cairns. (Opposite page) A boat anchored in Phang Nga Bay, Phuket.
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Thailand Formerly known as Siam, this
Southeast Asian kingdom features Buddhist temples, exotic wildlife and spectacular islands. Outrigger® Laguna Phuket Beach Resort
Outrigger® Phi phi island Resort and Spa
This luxurious property is set on
This resort’s seclusion is definitely its
spectacular Bangtao Beach. Accom-
allure. On the northeast coast of Thai-
modations feature modern interiors
land’s Koh Phi Phi Don are 70 tranquil
with exotic Thai touches and balco-
acres of swaying coconut palms and
nies with views of the Andaman Sea
a half mile of sparkling shore on
or a tropical lagoon. This five-star
the Andaman Sea. Thatched-roof
hotel is the only one in Laguna
bungalows are perfectly private with
Phuket to offer exclusive club ameni-
modern comforts. Four on-site res-
ties, including private check-in, and
taurants serve a variety of cuisines in
dining and concierge services.
settings with exceptional views.
Outrigger® Laguna phuket Resort & Villas Residential-style luxury villas and suites welcome families to experience the restful parks, winding lagoons and recreational activities of this distinctive resort area. Exceptional villa homes feature a lap pool and Thai sala pavilion. Splitlevel suites provide a well-equipped kitchen, spacious bedrooms, and comfortable living and dining areas.
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(Page 128) ©Brown W. Cannon III/Intersection Photos. (page 130, clockwise from top center) ©Pornchai Mittongtare; ©Greg Balfour Evans/Alamy;
(Clockwise from top left) Thai canoes are moored in front of limestone rocks near Railay Beach, which can be accessed via ferry from Phuket. Grand Buddha statues and ornate temples can be found throughout this “Land of Smiles.”
©Watcharee Suphaluxana/shutterstock; ©Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd / Alamy.
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FIJI This South Pacific island is a vision of paradise. Outrigger® ON THE LAGOON • FIJI
CASTAWAY ISLAND, FIJI This uniquely wondrous private island
Outrigger® on the Lagoon • Fiji is one
resort welcomes guests to explore the
of the most enchanting resorts in the
stunning 174-acre rainforest preserve
South Pacific. Occupying 40 acres on
traditionally known as Qalito Island,
the Coral Coast of Viti Levu island,
along with its pristine beaches and
this award-winning resort embraces
vibrant coral reefs teeming with
the design and hospitality of a tradi-
sea life. Accommodations include
tional Fijian village. Award-winning
thatched beachfront and garden bures
Bebe Spa, excellent on-site restau-
with contemporary decor and such
rants, sightseeing tours, outdoor
activities as the Castaway Kids Club.
adventure activities and evening cultural shows will keep guests of all ages entertained.
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(clockwise from top left) Courtesy Outrigger Resorts®; ©Selfiy/shutterstock; ©Denis Burdin/shutterstock
(Clockwise from top left) Traveling through Fiji, a visitor can expect to see traditional conchblowing ceremonies. The Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple is located in Nada, Fiji. The island is surrounded by palm trees and soft white sand.
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GUAM This gateway to Micronesia offers an inviting retreat for those looking for fun, culture and sun. Outrigger® GUAM RESORT Located in the Tumon Bay resort area, this deluxe hotel is surrounded by top entertainment venues, fine restaurants and luxury retailers. Every guest room features an ocean
(From left) Tumon Bay is a protected reserve and is Guam’s major tourist center. Perched atop a 378-foot limestone plateau, Puntan Dos Amantes — or Two Lovers Point — is one of Guam’s most sacred and popular attractions.
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(from left) ©Michael Fitzsimmons/istock; ©IZO/shutterstock
view and access to a private lounge.
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AUSTRALIA This iconic destination showcases
nature journeys, coastal drives and wildlife. Outrigger® SURFERS PARADISE
Noosa’s Laguna Bay, one of the most popular holiday destinations on the
Situated along the glittering Gold
accommodations, conference facilities
Coast, Outrigger Surfers Paradise
and a day spa make this a desirable
features deluxe accommodations,
choice. Guests can take nature walks
conference facilities, swimming pools
through Noosa National Park or shop
and gym, all just steps from famed
along Hastings Street.
Surfers Paradise Beach. The hotel is surrounded by activity day to night. Shoppers find the latest trends and gifts, while revelers enjoy nightclubs.
Outrigger® TWIN TOWNS RESORT
LITTLE HASTINGS STREET VILLAS AND PENTHOUSES Amid the refined resort destination of Noosa on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast are spacious penthouse apartments and exclusive luxury villas for
Explore the surrounding twin
travelers who value privacy, excep-
towns of Tweed Heads and Cool-
tional comfort and personal service.
angatta near the vibrant Southern
Single-level penthouses, two-level tree
Gold Coast. Stylish hotel rooms and
top villas, and three-level deluxe villas
apartments are suitable for families,
conform to the peaceful hillside of
business travelers and groups. The
Noosa National Park.
adjoining Twin Towns Club provides conference facilities, restaurants and a showroom.
Outrigger® LITTLE HASTINGS STREET RESORT AND SPA
BOATHOUSE APARTMENTS BY OUTRIGGER® Airlie Beach is a popular destination for divers and pleasure boaters heading to the Whitsunday Islands and on to the Great Barrier Reef. The
(Clockwise from bottom left) Kids can interact with kangaroos at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.
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Guests can also visit Springbrook National Park and Airlie Beach in the Whitsunday region of Queensland.
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resort offers well-appointed two- and These luxury apartments are situat-
three-bedroom apartments and four-
ed on a forested hillside overlooking
bedroom penthouses.
(clockwise from top left) ©Larissa Dening/shutterstock; ©Tanya Puntti/shutterstock; ©Travel Pictures/Alamy
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China/Vietnam Organization (UNESCO) heritage sites as the Great Wall of China and Halong Bay, China and Vietnam have continued to experience a rise in visitor arrivals with no signs of slowing. The two nations have become popular destinations, each with its own allure and attractions. In 2015, Outrigger Resorts will expand its portfolio to include properties in both countries. The Outrigger Clearwater Bay Resort will be situated on a pristine beachfront in the burgeoning tourist destination of Sanya on the southern edge of China’s Hainan Island. The area is known for its crystal blue waters and spectacular dive sites. Located on a breathtaking beachfront in a secluded bay near Quy Nhon, the capital city of Binh Dinh province, Outrigger Vinh Hoi Resort and Spa will be one of the first world-class hotels in this region along the south-central coast. Enjoy the mountain views, Cham temples and nearby beaches.
(From left) The Great Wall of China stretches approximately 5,500 miles. Chinese Buddhist temples feature ornate dragon carvings. The Mekong Delta bustles with commercial activity.
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©Free Bird Photos/shutterstock; ©simplicio paragas
Home to such world-renowned United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural
(from left) ©banana republic images/shutterstock;
Neighboring Asian countries attract visitors with iconic landmarks, exotic cuisine and rich history.
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JOURNEY ON
ONCE YOU HAVE traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.
ŠSEAN DAVEY
Pat Conroy, New York Times bestselling author
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The Outrigger Journey 2014-2015