Embassy Suites by Hilton Waikiki September 2016 by Morris Media Network

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Welcome Aloha and welcome I would like to personally welcome you to one of the most remarkable resorts in Waikīkī: the Embassy Suites by Hilton — Waikīkī Beach Walk®. We are positively delighted to have you with us at O‘ahu’s first all-suite resort. No other O‘ahu property offers you more amenities and complimentary services. There are many special places in the world, but none exudes the radiance and magic of Hawai‘i. Embassy Suites by Hilton — Waikīkī Beach Walk® celebrates this singular gem among destinations as part of Waikīkī Beach Walk®, a special place that features shopping, restaurants and cultural offerings for both keiki (kids) and adults, including live music on the lawn. Outrigger® Resorts proudly manages Embassy Suites by Hilton — Waikīkī Beach Walk®. Outrigger is one of the largest and fastest-growing privately held leisure lodging and hospitality companies in the Asia Pacific and Oceania regions, with accommodations comprising more than 11,000 rooms in Hawai‘i, Guam, Fiji, Thailand, the Maldives, Mauritius, Vietnam and China. With more than 69 years of hospitality experience and roots firmly in Hawai‘i, Outrigger embraces an authentic style of ho‘okipa (hospitality) — what we call Ke ‘Ano Wa‘a, The Outrigger Way. An important part of the Embassy Suites by Hilton experience is the high degree of personal service and the Hawaiian spirit of aloha you will find here. From bell captains and servers to front desk hosts and housekeepers to pool attendants and entertainers, all of us are united in our kūlia i ka nu‘u, or striving for excellence. We hope that your stay is a pleasant one and that you will return soon to our islands and the Embassy Suites by Hilton — Waikīkī Beach Walk®.

Warmest Aloha,

David Carey President and Chief Executive Officer Outrigger® Hotels and Resorts

Unforgettable Vacation, Incredible Value Travelers looking for an unforgettable vacation can find a host of complimentary services and amenities at Embassy Suites by Hilton – Waikiki Beach Walk® that make it easy for guests to focus on fun, adventure and relaxation. In addition to the fresh, healthy choices at the complimentary breakfast, 24-hour fitness center, whirlpool spa and outdoor pool, Embassy Suites by Hilton — Waikīkī Beach Walk® encourages guests to feel their very best with free yoga classes. “Basic Yoga Flow” is held every Monday, Wednesday and Friday* at 7 a.m. on the 4th floor Grand Lanai. “The benefits of yoga are both mental and physical,” says Yoko Fujiwara, who provides certified yoga instruction in both English and Japanese. “Just come, and do what you can. Calm and quiet your mind. All you need to do is breathe, and I guarantee you will feel good.” If the temperature gets too hot to handle, head to the open-air Grand Lanai, located on the fourth floor. Open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m, the spacious sundeck is filled with chaise lounges, cabanas, umbrella-shaded tables and covered pavilion. Take a dip in the heated swimming pool, made in Italy or the whirlpool spa. For families, keiki will delight in the wading pool. When evening rolls around, guests gather for the Evening Poolside Reception, held each evening from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Enjoy complimentary beverages and snacks while taking in the live Hawaiian entertainment. At the end of the day, well-appointed suites will welcome you home. Recently renovated to capture Hawai‘i’s unique sense of place, each suite pays homage to the Native Hawaiian art of kapa, a traditional Hawaiian fabric stamped with intricate geometric prints. The one- and two-bedroom suites come fully equipped with a wet bar and microwave, mini refrigerator, and coffee maker to bring all the conveniences of home – without the stress.

For more information about all the amenities and activities at Embassy Suites by Hilton – Waikīkī Beach Walk® or to make a reservation, call 808-921-2345 or

visit our website www.embassysuiteswaikiki.com

Amenities and Services ROOM FEATURES COMPLIMENTARY SERVICES AND AMENITIES • • • • • • • • • •

Full Made-to-Order Breakfast Daily Nightly Poolside Reception WiFi Internet Access Welcome Drink Coffee or Tea Domestic Long Distance & Local Phone Calls* Hawaiian Music CD upon departure* 24-hour Fitness Center 24-hour Business Center Newspaper

• • • • • • • • • • •

ADA Rooms Air Conditioning Balconies Blackout Drapes Cable & Pay TV CD & MP3 Player Alarm Clock Radio Coffee and Tea-maker Microwave Daily Maid Service Hair Dryer Hot Pot

SERVICES • In-Room Safe • Iron & Ironing Board • LCD Flat-Panel TV (one in each room) • Mini-refrigerator • Giovanni Bathroom Amenities** • Voicemail • Wet Bar

• Porter / Bell Service • Restaurants • Sundry Store and Gift Shop • Swimming Pool / Whirlpool Spa • Tour & Travel Activities Desk • Valet Parking • Wake-up Call

HOTEL INFORMATION Embassy Suites® by Hilton Waikīkī Beach Walk®

facebook.com/EmbassySuitesWaikiki

201 Beachwalk Street, Honolulu, Hawai‘i 96815

twitter.com/EmbassyWaikiki

Phone: 808-921-2345 Subject to state and local laws. Must be of legal drinking

Fax: 808-921-2343

age. *First 30 minutes free. **Subject to change.

EmbassySuitesWaikiki.com

• ATM • Catering Staff • Coin Laundry & Valet Dry Cleaning • Concierge • Guest Services Desk • Hospitality Suite • Ice Machine • In-room Dining (Lunch & Dinner) • Luggage Storage • Meeting Rooms

pinterest.com/embassysuiteshi instagram.com/embassywaikiki

The Original Wave Collection

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry OAHU: Outrigger Waikiki on Kalakaua Avenue • Waikiki Beach Walk • Ala Moana Center • Hilton Hawaiian Village • Polynesian Cultural Center, MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Lahaina Cannery • The Shops at Wailea • WhalersVillage 858 Front Street • 744 Front Street • Hyatt Regency Maui • Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village • Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace • Kings’ Shops • Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE: Pride of America www.NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912

Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2016

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2016

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Location & Area Information

Just beyond the hotel’s valet and concierge, there is a cool, covered pathway to Waikīkī Beach Walk®, a shopping, dining and entertainment district on

LOCAL FLAVOR Weekly events at Waikīkī Beach Walk*

Lewers Street. The largest development project in

• KU HA`AHEO — HULA ON THE LAWN

Waikīkī’s history, this area consists of nearly 8 acres

Tuesdays from 4:30-6 p.m.

of prime real estate, which includes two floors with

• FREE YOGA CLASS*

40-plus locally owned boutiques and seven popular restaurants, all surrounded by an expansive lawn and entertainment plaza where you’ll find local musicians, entertainers and hula performances. Each Tuesday from 4:30 to 6 p.m., you’ll hear Hawaiian music and see hula on the lawn. And as a

Wednesdays at 4 p.m.

• HOOPDANCING Saturdays at 5 p.m. (small fee for instructors) * Subject to change; weather permitting.

commitment to health and wellness, on the lawn there’s Hoopdance Fitness, Belly Dancing, Yoga and Hawaiian Quilting classes throughout the week (some classes are free or at a nominal fee). “Literally steps away from your hotel,” says Conchita Malaqui, Waikīkī Beach Walk® general manager, “you’ll find world-class dining options, such as Roy’s Waikīkī,

ALA WAI BLVD.

ALK

130+ beers on tap with food that is sure to please

KALAKAUA AVE.

KAIULANI AVE.

CHW

selection of draft beers in Hawai‘i, Yard House has

UA AVE

BEA

Beachwalk. And what may well be the largest

KALAKA

LEWERS

For the best “five-napkin” burgers, visit Cheeseburger

KUHIO AVE.

ROYAL HAWAIIAN

and Kaiwa, a Tokyo-based teppan fusion restaurant.”

LEWERS

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Taormina Sicilian Cuisine

everyone in your group.

E M BA S SY SU I T E S BY H I LT O N — WA I K Ī K Ī B E AC H WA L K ® 201 Beachwalk Street Honolulu, Hawai‘i 96815 Phone: 808-921-2345 • Fax: 808-921-2343 EmbassySuitesWaikiki.com

E M BA SSY SU I T E S BY H I LT O N — WA I K I K I B E AC H WA L K ®

(FAR RIGHT) ©GARY B. SMITH

(THIS PAGE) EMBASSY SUITES® BY HILTON — WAIKIKI BEACH WALK® ; (OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP LEFT AND BELOW) EMBASSY SUITES® BY HILTON — WAIKIKI BEACH WALK®;

Waikīkī Beach Walk

A multi-generational halau (hula school) is backed by live musicians for the Tuesday evening hula show from 4:30 to 6 p.m.

BEA

UA AVE

ALK

LEWERS

CHW

KALAKAUA AVE.

KAIULANI AVE.

KALAKA

ROYAL HAWAIIAN

KUHIO AVE.

LEWERS

ALA WAI BLVD.

Contents

HOTEL INFORMATION

ROOMS WITH A VIEW

Hawaiian instruments were designed to

Wholeness and Well-being

of Waikīkī’s oceanfront restaurants.

accompany and embellish the expression of

Native Hawaiian poetry.

THE FINE ART OF LEI-GIVING The floral garland is much more than an adornment; it’s a revered tradition. BY JOCELYN FUJII

THE KAPA CHRONICLES Kapa making is an ancient Hawaiian art form that requires special tools. BY LYNN COOK

THE SONG OF MANA

Enjoy a romantic dinner for two at one

Location and Area Information

Amenities and Services

JAM SESSIONS

BY KRISTEN NEMOTO

O‘AHU TOP 5 Be sure to visit such iconic places as Makapu‘u Lighthouse, Pearl Harbor and Hanauma Bay.

Award-winning local musicians entertain

ON THE COVER

nightly at various Outrigger venues.

©MakenaStockMedia / Pacificstock

(FROM LEFT) ©RACHEL OLSSON; ©LINNY MORRIS

ROYAL STYLE

Apple Store Fendi Hermès Harry Winston Cartier Loro Piana Valentino Omega Boutique Tourneau Rolex Boutique Salvatore Ferragamo Tory Burch kate spade new york Jimmy Choo Forever 21

110+ SHOPS & RESTAURANTS DAILY 10AM – 10PM - KALAKAUA AVE., WAIK IK I - BETWEEN P.F. CHANG’S WAIK IK I & THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 808.922.2299 Free Wi-Fi

RoyalHawaiianCenter.com

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W H E R E | H AWA I I ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Glenn Kobayashi, 808.983.5444 REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

Courtney Fuhrmann ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Bob Kowal, Donna Kowalczyk, Chris Snipes BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR Miao Woo CIRCULATION & MARKETING MANAGER

Sidney Louie

EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR Simplicio Paragas EDITOR Kristen Nemoto ART DIRECTOR Olga D’Astoli CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lynn Cook, Jocelyn Fujii CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

Linny Morris JAPANESE TRANSLATOR

Misayo Hobbs

M O R R I S V I S I T O R P U B L I C AT I O N S

MVP | Executive PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER Reab Berry CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS

Angela E. Allen

WAI K I K I ’ S WAY TO P LAY GO LF! Play Worry FREE Golf. We offer you a complete outing

VICE PRESIDENT, INTERNAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Karen Rodriguez CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR Geoff Kohl

MVP | National Sales VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES

Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR

including transportation from Waikiki to our beautiful club just 40 minutes from Waikiki. Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay masterfully designed three-separate nines for the

David Gately MVP | Cartography & Circulation GENERAL MANAGER, WHERE MAPS

Christopher Huber

club. Two will be combined for your round of play.

NATIONAL CIRCULATION COORDINATOR

Noreen Altieri

• 18 holes with shared cart

MVP | Creative CHIEF CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Haines Wilkerson SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Margaret Martin

DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Isaac Arjonilla CREATIVE COORDINATOR

Beverly Mandelblatt MVP | Production PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR

Kris Miller PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER

Cher Wheeler PHOTO SCANNING/RETOUCH

Jerry Hartman MVP | Manufacturing & Technology DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING

Donald Horton TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER

• Complimentary use of TaylorMade® rental clubs

Tony Thorne-Booth

with a half-dozen golf balls OR $20 credit toward pro shop merchandise OR dining at Bird of Paradise Restaurant

M O R R I S C O M M U N I C AT I O N S CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV

• Range balls and bottled water • Round-trip transportation from Waikiki locations E-mails for all of the above : Firstname.lastname@morris.com islands of outrigger is published annually for Outrigger Hotels and Resorts by Morris Visitor Publications, 1833

Kalakaua Ave., Suite 810, Honolulu, HI 96830 ph (808) 955-2378 fax (808) 955-2379

Information and Tee Times: 808.944.4567 HawaiiPrinceGolf.com

Copyright 2016 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in Hong Kong. MVP IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF LES CLEFS D’OR USA

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T H E K A PA CHRONICLES MUCH HAS BEEN WRITTEN ABOUT THE ANCIENT AND TRADITIONAL H I S T O R I E S O F K A PA I N H AWA I â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; I A S W E L L AS I N A L L O F P O LY N E S I A. BY

LY N N

C O O K

“Hawaiian kapa features a spectrum of colors and designs, which sets it apart from other Polynesian kapa.” —SAMUEL KAMAKAU

amuel Kamakau’s assertion may have been true in the late 19th cen-

tury. Today, though, in the decades following a profound resurgence of Hawaiian cultural practices, the art of kapa making is back, having enjoyed a modern-day revival. It is especially evident at times like the 47th annual Merrie Monarch Hula Festival, a.k.a. the world series of hula competitions. At the 2012 event, when the time was right, dozens of dedicated haumana, students, of Kumu Hula Nalani Kanaka‘ole of Hālau O Kekuhi, filed solemnly onto the stage. The audience of several thousand fans gasped, and then burst into thunderous applause. It had been centuries since dancers adorned in kapa had presented an ancient hula. Created from the pounded bark of the wauke (also called paper mulberry bush), kapa is the fabric of ancient times, used as clothing and adornment, tied or even draped in the manner of Western attire. This man-made material of Hawai‘i and all of Polynesia can be as fine as Chinese silk and as sturdy as supple leather, and the process of creating it was a life’s work for Hawaiians.

Each unique kapa told a story of royal ancestry, great deities and the seasons of life. 20

“One would suppose that they had borrowed their patterns from some mercer’s shop in which the most elegant productions of China and Europe are collected.” —CAPTAIN JAMES COOK

“In ancient times, all families would grow their own wauke for their use,” says prominent O‘ahu-based kapa maker Dalani Tanahy. “The men would care for and cultivate these plants.” Following the harvesting, the ‘ili (outer skin) would be stripped with the use of a sharpened edge of a shell. Carefully rolled in small coils, it would sit, becoming flat and smooth. Unrolled, scraped to remove all bark, it would be rolled again, and fermented in water for days. The kapa maker would then unroll the soft coil and beat it on a stone anvil, a kua pōhaku, with a round hohoa, beater. It would be soaked again, then beaten on a wood anvil, kua la‘au, with a four-sided i‘e kuku tool engraved with patterns that would permanently imprint and become the watermark of the artist. Combined by the beating, the strips would be felted together into a “fabric.” “Beating does not mean beating the bark senseless. … Beating is coaxing,” Tanahy explains. “Beating kapa is not the time for releasing pent-up issues, stress or hostility. It is a time to be

THE DATEJUST 41 The new generation of the essential classic, with a new movement and design that keep it at the forefront of watchmaking. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 41

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oyster perpetual and datejust are

trademarks.

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patient, quiet and prepared to create something wonderful.” Some kapa was scented, and much

intricate patterns of color. A hand-carved wooden stamp — or ‘ohe kapala — was painted with the

of it featured kaona, hidden meaning.

pigment and then used to print on

Old journals and stories describe

finished kapa. In “Arts and Crafts of

the many hours of pounding and

Hawai‘i: Clothing,” author Peter Buck

©SHUZO UEMOTO/HONOLULU MUSEUM OF ART;

decoration as meditation. Made from

catalogues a vast collection of bamboo

PHOTORESOURCEHAWAII (THIS PAGE) ©RACHEL

natural sources such as red dirt, noni

stamps. The designs are elaborate and

OLSSON; (PAGE 24) ©DOUGLAS PEEBLES PHOTOGRAPHY/

bushes and kolea trees, sea urchin ink

varied, predominantly straight line

SUPERSTOCK, ©JOE CARINI/SUPERSTOCK; (PAGE 28)

or the dried leaves of the mao tree,

geometrics with the occasional leaf or

pulverized dyes would be mixed with

round shape. The fine craftsmanship

(PAGE 32 FROM LEFT) ©KUHAO ZANE, ©TOR JOHNSON/

kukui nut oil and then stamped in

is evident in the delicate intricacy

©TRISH ALLEN (DESIGN PATTERN)

(PAGES 16-17) ROBERTHARDING/SUPERSTOCK.COM; (PAGE 18) JOHN WARBURTON LEE/SUPERSTOCK.COM; (PAGE 19) HIMANI/GETTYIMAGES.COM; (PAGE 20) (PAGE 21) ©TAMI KAUAKEA WINSTON/

ALAMY; (PAGE 26 FROM LEFT) ©KYLE ROTHENBORG/ ©DOUGLAS PEEBLES PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY; (PAGE 30); ©SHUZO UEMOTO/HONOLULU MUSEUM OF ART; PHOTORESOURCEHAWAII; (PAGES 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32)

cellini dual time

THE CL ASSICAL WATCH BY ROLE X

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the cellini collection celebrates the eternal elegance of traditional timepieces with a contemporary t wist. the cellini dual time with a

mm case in

ct everose gold grants

its wearers the gift of temporal ubiquit y, making them simultaneously aware of the time here and in a faraway land.

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of these stamps. Some were even

story of royal ancestry, great deities

repaired when they had cracked from

and the seasons of life: the swaddling

use. A few had carved parts made of

cloth of a newborn child; the canvas on

tortoise shell and were painstakingly

which to portray Hawaiian goddesses

tied onto the bamboo handle. Some

and gods; the blanket to spread atop

designs have meanings that are

the sleeping bed of island royalty; the

interpretations of the things that

shawl of a priestly elder or kahuna; and

Hawaiians were accustomed to seeing

the shroud with which to ceremonially

in daily life, such as the feathers of a

cover the bones of ancestors.

bird, the bones of a fish, the teeth of a

In 1778, when ocean explorer

shark and variations of those themes.

Captain James Cook anchored in what

Each unique kapa design told a

he dubbed “the Sandwich Islands,” he

“Some designs have meanings that are interpretations of the things that Hawaiians were accustomed to seeing in daily life, such as the feathers of a bird, the bones of a fish, the teeth of a shark and variations of those themes.”

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“All are dead who knew how to make coverings and loincloths and skirts and adornments and all that made the wearers look dignified and proud and distinguished.” —SAMUEL KAMAKAU, HAWAIIAN HISTORIAN, 1870

was amazed by kapa and wrote: “One would suppose that they [Hawaiians] had borrowed their patterns from some mercer’s shop in which the most elegant productions of China and Europe are collected.” Never having encountered cotton or linen to weave into cloth, the Hawaiians were equally curious when they set their eyes on Western garb, thread-sewn with long sleeves and pant legs. Following the early adventurers in Hawai‘i were missionary ships in the 1820s, bringing with them an amazing treasure: bolts of woven fabric. Kapa makers became seamstresses. Modern ways, lack of natural materials, tools

(First spread) Pattern of kapa, beaten mulberry bark. (Second spread, from left) Detail of design and motifs on kapa cloth; traditional Polynesian kapa, hand-printed paper bark cloth. (Page 20) Original kapa. (Page 21) Finished Kapa by Roen Hufford. (Page 22 and page 24) Kapa cloth. (Page 26) Making a traditional kapa. (This page) Kapa cloth, Hawai’i. (Page 28) Kapa hanging. (Page 30, from left) Kapa bundle; women of Halau Na Hula o Kaohikukapulani dressed in kapa at the Kaua‘i Polynesian Festival.

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and toolmakers, and the migration of

back into the daylight with new vitality,

Preserving an Art Form

Pacific people took a toll on kapa.

hurtling toward the contemporary art

Embassy Suites® — Waikīkī Beach Walk® incorporated a kapa design on its Hula and Aloha towers to pay homage to this ancient art form, which was once almost lost. Toward the end of the 1800s, woven fabric was introduced to Hawai‘i, and kapa making was all but abandoned, though courser and heavier bark cloth continued to be made in Pacific Islands such as Fiji, Tonga and Samoa. Fine examples of Hawaiian kapa were tucked away in the closets of royal families and in the collection of Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop. Her husband, Charles Reed Bishop, built O‘ahu’s Bishop Museum in her honor and the kapa found a safe haven for generations to study and admire.

For nearly a hundred years, this and other art forms hibernated in the

world at seemingly warp speed. An early explorer of the ancient

collective creative memory of island

art in modern times, Malia Solomon,

craftsmen as Hawaiian culture was

with the support of Dr. Kenneth

all too often preempted by a new

Emory (senior anthropologist, Bishop

Western way of life. In the 1960s and

Museum), traveled the islands of the

’70s, however, awareness was raised

Pacific, finding teachers and learning

among native Hawaiians and became

their craft to share with Hawaiian

what is now commonly referred to as

artisans. Next, Puanani Van Dorpe

the Hawaiian Renaissance. Language,

stepped into a boat and sailed to Fiji,

music and art forms of the past came

where she sat for weeks with Fijian

Authentic Hawai‘i served here. Looking for a gift made in Hawai‘i or the best in regional cuisine? Outrigger Resorts in Waikīkī are home to an impressive variety of authentic local shops and restaurants, just steps from the beach.

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women as they made kapa. More young

purchased for display in resorts and

Kapa as Modern Art

women followed, perpetuating the art

visitor and convention centers. Kapa

of kapa making. Aspiring artisans then

was indeed alive and moving into the

learned from the masters and from the

next century.

Now in her 80s, Marie McDonald, respected lei maker, artist, teacher, researcher, author and Waimea (Hawai‘i Island) farmer, took on the challenge of growing wauke and immersing in the ancient ways and secrets of kapa. In 2008, her one-woman Honolulu Museum of Art exhibition generated waves of excitement in the art community. While she practices traditional methods, her designs have nonetheless taken kapa into the realm of modern art. Other contemporary artists include Maile Andrade, Moana Eisley, Kauka, Verna Takashima and Dalani Tanahy.

collections at Bishop Museum and the Honolulu Museum of Art. Kapa makers have traveled to such Where to see kapa on display • Hawai‘i State Art Museum (www. sfca.hawaii.gov) • Bishop Museum (www.bishopmuseum. org)

Just like in the past, there is no quick, modern way of making kapa. The work is laborious and the rewards

great museums as the Smithsonian

intangible. But a new generation will

and Peabody, local parks and schools

ensure that the vibrant art of Hawaiian

to exchange ideas and discuss their

kapa will continue to touch both artist

discoveries as they re-created and

and collector, beyond the shores of

re-invented the process. Their work

these islands, in the hearts and souls of

was honored with exhibitions, and

maka‘ainana, the people.

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Tables With an Ocean View Nothing could be more romantic than an intimate dinner for two under the stars. Throughout the years, tales of romance and humorous antics have spontaneously unfolded at Outrigger’s oceanfront dining establishments where memorable sunsets are always free.

Chuck’s Steak House After graduating from the Cornell Hotel and Restaurant School in 1956, Charles “Chuck” Rolles moved to Hawai‘i in 1959 to open the first of a number of eponymous restaurants in Waikīkī. He was deemed as the first to bring the steak house and salad bar concept to the Continental United States. And this tradition continues today. Here, guests have front-row seats to Diamond Head, Waikīkī Beach and swaying palm fronds. A longtime favorite among kama‘āina, Chuck’s Steak House prides itself on its aged USDA Prime cuts of steak, which are cut on-site and grilled over lava rocks. Sirloins and striploins can be combined with lobster and scallops. 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Outrigger Waikīkī Beach Resort, 808.923.1228; open nightly for dinner; chuckshawaii.com/ steakhouselocation.html

Duke’s Waikīkī Whether you’re sitting at the bar or seated

(Clockwise from top) Couples can enjoy the ocean view while dining at Duke’s Waikīkī. One of Duke’s specialties is the macadamia-nut-encrusted catch of the day. Prepare your own steak at Shore Bird. Ocean House’s sashimi appetizer consists of sushi-grade ahi. Sip on a mai tai at Hula Grill.

in the dining room, this Waikīkī institution offers panoramic ocean views, live music and a menu that pays tribute to our local bounty. Fresh Hawaiian fish can be prepared in various ways, including encrusted with macadamia nuts. For a different type of protein, order the huli huli chicken, a Duke’s original that features grilled fresh breast of chicken marinated in garlic, ginger and shoyu and accompanied by pineapple gremolata. And you can’t leave here without a slice of Kimo’s Original Hula Pie. Be sure to arrive early to catch the sunset and then stick around at the Barefoot Bar for live entertainment. 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Outrigger Waikīkī Beach Resort, 808.922.2268; open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner; dukeswaikiki.com

A Hawai‘i vacation wouldn’t be quite complete without at least one romantic oceanfront dining experience.

Beachfront dining is always a romantic retreat. Not only is the setting memorable but so is the cuisine. Here are our top oceanfront picks when planning to celebrate a special occassion.

Hula Grill The plantation-style décor features wood paneling juxtaposed with stark white molding, evoking images of old Hawai‘i. The menu, though, is more contemporary, listing such favorites as Diver scallops covered in a macadamia-nutand-butter sauce, rich coconut seafood chowder, ginger-glazed chicken and healthy kabocha-and-squash gnocchi. Steps away from “The Library,” the Plantation Bar showcases nightly live music and hula performances. Aloha Hour offers specials from 3 to 6 p.m., while a “Chef’s Tasting” menu is available Monday through Friday until 5:45 p.m. A weekend brunch is available until 3 p.m. 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Outrigger Waikīkī Beach Resort, 808.923.4852; open daily for breakfast and dinner; hulagrillwaikiki.com

Ocean House Opened in 2002, Ocean House’s concept is to offer a Tommy Bahama-esque, plantation-like retreat with unobstructed Diamond Head and ocean views. The menu lists a cornucopia of seafood entrees, including lilikoi-misoyaki butterfish, grilled mahimahi, parmesan-crusted opah and Chinese-style steamed monchong. Creatively presented is the seafood lau lau, a ti leaf bundle with bits of mahimahi, shrimp and scallops. Available from 5 to 6 p.m., the “Sunset Special” offers slow-roasted prime rib. Outrigger Reef Waikīkī Beach Resort, 2169 Kalia Road, 808.923.2277; open nightly for dinner; oceanhousewaikiki.com

Shore Bird Restaurant & Beach Bar When co-owners Eric Horst and John McManus first opened the Shore Bird on June 29, 1979, people told them they were crazy. After all, who would want to go to a restaurant to grill their own dinner? But soon after opening, the Shore Bird became the “in” place in Waikīkī, attracting flocks of tourists, locals and celebrities alike. Steaks and seafood come to the table completely raw and it’s up to the guest to season and prepare select proteins on a huge 20-foot grill with the slopes of Diamond Head as the backdrop. Guests select from hand-carved Angus steaks, (THIS PAGE, FROM TOP) ©DUKE’S WAIKIKI; ©WIKIMEDIA; COURTESY OUTRIGGER

including top sirloin, New York and a well marbled rib eye.

ENTERPRISES GROUP. (OPPOSITE PAGE,

Steaks can also be combined with lobster or mahimahi.

BOTH PHOTOS) COURTESY OUTRIGGER

Outrigger Reef Waikīkī Beach Resort, 2169 Kalia Road,

ENTERPRISES GROUP.

808.922.2887; breakfast, lunch and dinner; shorebirdwaikiki.com

36 PHOTO

THE FINE ART OF LEI-GIVING W H I L E E V E RY L E I I S C H E R I S H E D, I T D O E S N â&#x20AC;&#x2122; T HURT TO KNOW THE PROTOCOL BY

J O C E LY N

F UJ I I

While in Italy a few years ago for a friend’s birthday, I sneaked out to the nearest village to buy as many peonies as I could afford. It was the height of the season, and rather than denuding the gardens surrounding our hotel, I set out, with a co-conspirator, on a covert mission: to find enough flowers for a surprise birthday lei. I could have raided the garden, but it would have exposed my plan—so we drove, seemingly endlessly, two villages away through the rolling hills of Tuscany. I hid in my room that afternoon and used sewing thread, a thimble, a puny needle and borrowed pliers (to pull the needle through the dense buds) to string those peonies into a lei. The blooms were graduated, with the tight buds toward the neck and the fuller blossoms dangling in the middle. That a lei in Italy is an anomaly, and that it was a birthday surprise for a former Maui resident, added to the excitement. The presentation was a triumph. But, really, even if it had been inappropriate or poorly crafted, or made with frayed or unworthy materials, how could it not be accepted and valued? Because, in the end, there is no such thing as a bad or unwelcome lei. “They’re all good, says master lei-maker and kapa-maker Marie McDonald, “because the whole idea is to show honor, high regard and love. Still, she adds, over the years, “some have become more special than others.”

(Previous spread) Former Miss Keiki Hula, Keolani Kaapuni, wears a lei po‘o, a head lei; making lei requires patience. (This spread) Kapono‘ai Molitau gathers leaves and flowers to create an elaborate lei, which is given on special occasions.

How else to explain the special allure of the hala or maile lei in Hawai‘i, or the esteem and reverence with which a lei lehua is presented and received? Or the power wielded by the mokihana, the

and Samuel H. Elbert, hala also means “to pass away, to die,” making it the ultimate lei for a funeral. To many, such as revered lei-maker Barbara Meheula,

anise-scented garland available only on Kaua‘i, with a fragrance

hala may be “the most misunderstood of all the lei, probably

that lasts for years and a potency that burns bare skin? Fragrance,

because it’s the most cherished.”

beauty and rarity and the lei’s historical role all play a part. “Hala (screwpine, or Pandanus tectorius) is one of the very

Hala represented good luck during the months-long Makahiki season of feasting and thanksgiving observed by pre-contact

traditional lei used in many ceremonies, mostly because it was

Hawaiians. “In the old days, the only time you could get married

available to the Hawaiians and had a nice scent and color,”

was during Makahiki, and the lei that was often given was hala,”

McDonald says of the fragrant fruit, which is strung in shades

says Meheula. Acknowledging that every end is a new beginning,

of white, yellow, orange and its rarest and most coveted color,

Meheula and her family wear hala lei every New Year’s.

red. Adding to its cultural heft, hala was the lei favored by Hi‘iaka, the goddess Pele’s favorite sister. The author of two definitive books on the lei, “Ka Lei” and

“Every dancer in our hālau understands that lei hala is a significant part of hula, not only signifying endings, but also somewith his wife, Jenny, owns Native Intelligence in Wailuku. “In hula,

McDonald has high regard for the hala. But as she writes in

lei hala is very appropriate. Lei hala ‘ula‘ula (red hala) is very dif-

“Nā Lei Makamae,” “The Hawaiian culture reflects a strange

ficult to come by nowadays. I know of a few spots on the island

dichotomy of perception toward the wearing of a lei hala.”

that have this beautiful fruit, but access is not always easy.” Native Intelligence brims with fine work in the Hawaiian

is translated as “sin, vice, offense, fault, error, or failure,” and

arts. The Molitaus ask for at least a week’s advance notice for

there were times it was avoided for fear it would bring bad luck.

custom lei orders, which may include liko lehua, ‘a‘ali‘i, ‘ōhelo

According to the “Hawaiian Dictionary” by Mary Kawena Pukui

and the velvety gray hua weleweka (the Hawaiian velvet seed

—KAPONO‘AI MOLITAU

thing new,” explains Maui kumu hula Kapono‘ai Molitau, who,

“Nā Lei Makamae,” which she co-authored with Paul Weissich,

Hi‘iaka may have loved the hala, writes McDonald, but the word

“In hula, lei hala is very appropriate. Lei hala ‘ula‘ula (red hala) is very difficult to come by nowadays. I know of a few spots on the island that have this beautiful fruit, but access is not always easy.”

(This page) Hawaiian dancers in the early 1900s wore lei of varying styles around their heads and necks; the easily strung plumeria is one of the first a child learns to make. (Opposite page) A traditional Hawaiian lei stringed with orchids and tuberose.

(This page) Mokihana berries adorn this maile lei; a young keiki girl wears a plumeria lei. (Opposite page) A

lei also known as the Hawaiian mink). Their lei could be kui (strung), haku (woven) or wili (wound), in standard lengths and shorter. When time and materials permit, the Molitaus also make head lei, called lei po‘o, and the collar-encircling neck lei, the lei ‘ā‘ī, important adornments in hula. In demand among dancers are the native plants that were offered to Laka, the Hawaiian goddess of dance still honored by hula schools today. Maile, with its leafy, anise-scented vines wound into open-ended strands, is one of the most accessible and visible of these lei, given and received with honor. McDonald says it’s a common misperception that maile and ‘ilima were only reserved for ali‘i (royalty). “They were not,” she affirms. Their fragrance and sensuous beauty made them popular among all, including royalty, but “they were not kapu (taboo). They were worn and enjoyed by all classes for many celebrations and occasions.” Those that were kapu before western contact included feather lei (lei hulu manu) and lei of human hair and sperm whale’s teeth, now displayed under glass in museums. Commoners presenting such lei to the ali‘i were required to give it to an intermediary with a bow, never raising one’s head above the monarch’s. Tourism and other western influences have tempered tradi-

traditional Hawaiian lei stringed with orchids; colorful Honolulu lei makers pictured in a postcard circa 1900.

tion and added flourishes such as Lei Day, May 1. “Traditionally, Hawaiians embrace each other or touch

and send out the same on behalf of the family,” she adds. To lei connoisseurs, presentation is as important as the

noses when they give a lei,” says McDonald. The common prac-

lei itself, and special occasions warrant the pu‘olo, a special ti

tice of giving a kiss while presenting a lei, a popular modern

leaf bundle. Meheula makes her pu‘olo not just with ti leaves,

practice, is “touristy,” adds Meheula. The Hawaiians consider

but with palm and coconut fronds and, occasionally, bam-

their most precious gift to be the hā—the breath, “because

boo. When someone once ordered a lei for a blind recipient,

everything you have in your heart is in the hā. That’s why

Meheula chose fragrant pīkake and carved a bamboo container

Hawaiians often greet each other with a gentle embrace or

for an olfactory and tactile extravaganza.

touching noses or cheeks in the honi.” When their lei are worn and dried, Hawaiians rarely throw

Those lei come once in a lifetime. My once-in-a-lifetime lei came many years ago. My dear friend and teacher, the beloved

them away, preferring instead to drape them on a photograph,

kupuna Nana Veary, gave me the name Hi‘ilei. “It means

take them to the cemetery or return them to the earth as

‘beloved child,’ ’’ she said. She asked me to be patient, adding

compost. As for the do’s and don’ts at the receiving end, unless

that I would “grow into learning its other meanings.” Years later

a severe allergy occurs, it’s considered rude to remove a lei or

on Kaua‘i, while making the first maile lei of my life, I learned

swing it around, as children sometimes do.

that Nana was seriously ill. I flew to Honolulu with the lei in

Although wedding traditions run the gamut, contemporary

my arms and placed it around her, and it was with her when

“Traditionally, Hawaiians embrace each other or touch noses when they give a lei, because everything you have in your heart is in the hā. That’s why Hawaiians often greet each other with a gentle embrace or touching noses or cheeks in the honi.” —MARY MCDONALD (FIRST SPREAD) ©FRANCO SALMOIRAGHI;

brides usually prefer multiple strands of fragrant pīkake and

she died in hospice. Little did I know that a garland of flow-

ginger, or even the ultra-luxe Ni‘ihau shell lei in 10 long strands,

ers is just the beginning of a lei’s definitions. A lei is a circle of

says Meheula. “Fresh flowers tend to be worn at chest length,

love. Hi‘ilei, “beloved child,’” also denotes a mother’s love for

where the heart is. And they should always be closed, repre-

the baby that she’s feeding, her arms wrapped around it in a

senting the eternal circle of love.” Bridegrooms most often wear

circle. That circle is a lei, a powerful bond, an expression of

IMAGES (2); (OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT)

their maile lei open to “welcome the good wishes of the guests

love and kinship.

PACIFIC STOCK.

©RACHEL OLSSON; (SECOND SPREAD) ©RACHEL OLSSON (4); (PAGE 40 FROM LEFT) ©HAWAIIAN LEGACY ARCHIVE/PACIFIC STOCK, ©ELYSE BUTLER; (PAGE 41) ©ELYSE BUTLER;

Melodic Music From steel guitar riffs to jazzy sax numbers, be entertained at these popular venues. Nothing quite defines Hawai‘i’s unique cultural heritage as does its music. Like the Islands, Hawaiian music continues to evolve, with diverse musical styles linked by cultural memory and, increasingly, composed and performed in the lyrical language of Hawai‘i’s native people. Some of these stellar greats can be seen on stage at Kani Ka Pila Grille. “Hawai‘i has deep musical roots, and Outrigger has long supported the perpetuation and sharing of our artistic heritage,” smiles Luana Maitland, events and activities manager for the Outrigger Reef Waikīkī Beach Resort. With the introduction of E Mele Ana, which loosely translates to “Come let’s sing,” Outrigger builds upon its long-time commitment and support of Hawaiian music and culture with expanded sponsorships of local events and festivals. “It’s great that (Outrigger) supports Hawaiian musicians,” says Henry Kapono, who performs at Duke’s Waikīkī at the

“This is home; this is where we practice; this is where we perform. We keep it real local Hawaiian music, which people from all over the world come to hear.” — Cyril Pahinui

Outrigger Waikīkī Beach Resort on Sundays. “It’s important that local musicans get a chance to perpetuate Hawaiian music.” Visitors can now also experience world-class jazz at the legendary Blue Note, which promises great music programming with visiting musicians, as well as local talent. Located on the second floor of the Outrigger Waikīkī Beach Resort, the 9,000-square-foot facility seats more than 300 patrons in an intimate setting.

“The Outrigger Waikīkī’s showroom has a long and impressive history as being the place in Waikīkī for music and entertainment,” says David Carey, president and CEO of Outrigger Enterprises Group. “With the opening of Blue Note Hawai‘i, the next chapter begins and music lovers from around the world can look forward to the perfect melding of the best in island talent with world renowned musicians.” Kani Ka Pila Grille serves casual island cuisine from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, with live entertainment nightly from 6 to 9 p.m. For schedule, call 808.924.4992. Blue Note Hawai‘i showcases two performances (Opposite page, clockwise, from top) Cyril Pahinui; savory cuisine at the Blue Note; and Kenny G at the Blue Note; (This page, clockwise from top) Weldon Kekauoha, pictured center sitting, with band members; Henry Kapono; mai tai; and Kawika Kahiapo. ©OUTRIGGER ENTERPRISES GROUP

nightly, with doors opening at 5 p.m. for the first set at 6:30 p.m. The second set starts at 9:30 p.m. with seating at 9 p.m. 808.777.4890, www.bluenotehawaii.com Duke’s Waikīkī is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Henry Kapono performs Sundays from 4 to 6 p.m. For complete entertainment schedule, call 808.922.2268 or visit www.dukeswaikiki.com.

THE SONG OF MANA R E M E M B E R I N G

T H E

S O U N D S

O F

O L D

H AWA I â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; I

K R I ST E N

N E M O T O

P H O T O G R A P H Y

L I N N Y

M O R R I S

Before the popularization of the “jumping flea” known as the ‘ukulele or Bing Crosby’s holiday classic “Mele Kalikimaka,” there was a single beat—a distinct rhythmic sound that transcended from one Hawaiian lineage to another. Unlike a written score by Mozart or a tale within a history book, ancient Native Hawaiians expressed themselves in the form of storytelling, otherwise known as the tradition of mo‘olelo, an oral account of a person, place, thing or event that’s communicated from generation to generation. Unabashedly personal and emotionally charged, mo‘olelo is steeped within thousands of years worth of mele (song), oli (chant) and hula (dance). Native Hawaiians thrived in the art of mele, conveying songs and stories from former leaders who stressed the importance of the past as a guide for defining what was pono (proper, true). Without these teachings, many Native Hawaiians would not have the proper knowledge of their own traditions, which today remains pivotal to the survival and perpetuation of Hawaiian beliefs and culture. To enhance the expression of Native Hawaiian poetry, single or combined implements and hula would accompany the lyrics of a song. Except for the ‘ili‘ili (stone pebbles) used as percussion and the pū (conch-shell trumpet), most ancient implements were made, at least in part, from plant materials and required days, months and even years of laborious work.

(Previous spread from left) The details of an ‘ulī‘ulī (feathered gourd rattle). A young dancer performs with an ‘ulī‘ulī. (This spread clockwise from top left): a dancer holds two kāla‘au (beating sticks). The ends of two kā‘eke‘eke (bamboo pipes). A dancer holds ‘ili‘ili in between her fingers to create a distinct percussion sound. Dancers using pū‘ili (split bamboo) rattles.

One of Merrie Monarch Festival’s (known as the Olympics of hula) most revered teachers, Kumu Hula (hula teacher) Kaleo Trinidad appreciates Native Hawaiian ancestors’ ability to be completely “utilitarian” and precise in their craft. It’s an art form that he strives to re-create in his hula practice. “Native Hawaiian implements are shaped exactly the way they’re needed,” Trinidad says. “If you notice, there are not many ornamentations on it. Why? Because to keep that instrument strong, you don’t carve into it.” The implements need to be thoughtful and sound, according to Trinidad.

(From left) A Hawaiian man strums ‘ukulele; the detailed carvings of a pahu drum; a koa ‘ukulele.

During the 2014 Merrie Monarch, his hālau (hula school) Ka Leo O Laka I Ka Hikina O Ka Lā (the voice of Laka at the rising of the sun) demonstrated such virility and strength while using Hawaiian implements in the hula kahiko (ancient form of hula) division that they took home the coveted overall winner title. As rows of his mountainous men stood with kāla‘au (beating sticks) in each hand, they knelt and stomped to the beat of “Aia I Ni‘ihau Ku‘u Pāwehe”— a dedicatory dance to the island of Ni‘ihau. With a vertical and longer kāla‘au in their left hands and a horizontal and shorter kāla‘au in their right,

(From left) Keiki girls dancing with kāla‘au; an assortment of kāla‘au.

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the men of Ka Leo banged the sticks to create percussions of stomp, stomp, stomp … tap, tap; stomp, stomp, stomp … tap, tap. Using ancient implements, the young dancers performed to the beat of the sacred mele, just the way their ancestors had done so before them. “What we don’t realize enough today is that Hawaiians were so meticulous,” Trinidad continues. “(There’s the) ‘ulī‘ulī (gourd rattle, with usually dyed red and yellow duck feathers along the brim) that has a lot of parts to it … Who would think to make something like that? It’s just so interesting.” Another rattle instrument includes the pū‘ili – a fringed or split bamboo that’s often played by dancers seated cross-legged. The predecessor to the ‘ukulele, the ‘ūkēkē, was the only stringed instrument in Hawai‘i, made of fine two-ply dried fibers and sandalwood. In the percussion family are the ipu pa‘i, a large double-gourd; the pūniu known as the coconut knee drum; and the hula pahu, a bass drum that’s traditionally made from the base of a coconut trunk and sealed with a piece of stretched and fitted shark belly skin. Today, ancient Hawaiian implements can still be seen in local museums or at hālau performances throughout the Islands, on the mainland and abroad. In the hands of talented artists such as the late Gabby “Pops” Pahinui or Jake Shimabukuro, modern implements such as the slack key guitar (Clockwise from top) Two variations of an ipu (gourd drum), which are used to provide the fundamental rhythm for chants and dances. A hula dancer prepares to beat an ipu. ‘Ili‘ili (stone pebbles) and pūpū shells.

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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and the ‘ukulele have revolutionized Hawaiian music. In the spring of 2015, Governor of Hawai‘i David Ige declared the ‘ukulele and the pahu as official state musical implements. When it comes to using any implements in his hālau performances, Trinidad appreciates them all equally, as each represents a special piece of his ancestors’ lineage. It’s a ritual he hopes to pass down to each of his students and anyone interested in Hawai‘i’s unique connection to its past. “You have to keep the culture alive,” he says. “How a particular object conveys its mana or spiritual essence is what’s happening to the implements. It’s a beautiful and amazing reflection upon Hawaiian people and Hawaiian culture.”

(From left) A conch shell blower readies to sound his shell; a pū (conch-shell trumpet) that’s used prior to a hula performance or ceremony as a way to mark an official start.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: (PAGES 47 AND 48) ©JOE CARINI/GETTY IMAGES (3); (PAGE 49) ©PHILIP ROSENBERG/GETTY IMAGES; (PAGE 50) ©DANA EDMUNDS/ GETTY; (PAGE 51) ©DOUGLAS PEEBLES/SUPERSTOCK; (PAGE 52) ©JOE CARINI/SUPERSTOCK; (PAGE 54) ©RON DAHLQUIST/ GETTYIMAGES; (THIS PAGE ON THE LEFT) TOR JOHNSON/HTA

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D E S T I N AT I O N S

Top 5 O‘ahu A quick glance at some of O‘ahu’s more popular sights, activities and attractions.

AD POSITION 1

Snorkelers of all levels of experience can explore this marine life conservation area. Stunning from the lookout and staggering once in the water, the turtles, sea urchins, eels and a living coral forest are pure underwater spectacles. Visitors can rent equipment and lockers at the beach and are required to watch an educational video before entering the park. Open daily except Tuesdays. Parking: $1 per car. General $7.50, children 12 and under and Hawai‘i residents free with proof of residency. 7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., 808.396.4229, honolulu.gov/parks.

3. BISHOP MUSEUM Located in Honolulu’s Kalihi district, this recently renovated museum is the world’s most significant repository of Pacific and Polynesian artifacts, an imposing stone structure with more than 25 million artifacts in its collection. The museum is more than 100 years old, and includes a planetarium and science center, the impressive Hawaiian Hall and precious artifacts from pre-contact

4. MAKAPU‘U LIGHTHOUSE For a relatively easy hike that boasts spectacular views, be sure to trek the Makapu‘u Lighthouse Trail. This twomile (round-trip) hike is kid-friendly and paved, except at the very top. Following the trail to the whale lookout, you can read about our winter visitors, and may be able to spot them in season (OctoberApril). Nearing the summit, stop at the overlook for views of Goat Island, Rabbit Island and Windward O‘ahu. On the clearest of days, you can see Moloka‘i and Maui.

5. PEARL HARBOR The USS Arizona Memorial’s graceful structure spans the mid-section of this sunken ship, which remains the final resting place for many of her 1,177 crew who perished December 7, 1941. The Visitor Center is an all new collection of museums, interpretive centers and shops. As soon as you arrive, get the free boarding tickets for the memorial. Shuttles also leave the Visitor Center for the USS Missouri and the Pacific Aviation Museum. 808.422.3300, nps.gov/valr.

2. HANAUMA BAY NATURE PRESERVE

times. 1525 Bernice St., 808.847.3511, bishopmuseum.org.

1. PALI LOOKOUT Perched 1,000 feet over the dramatic peaks of the Ko‘olau Mountain Range, the overlook from these pali (cliffs) gives you an unparalleled view of the valleys, mountains and turquoise waters of O‘ahu’s windward side. At the Pali Lookout, you’re on top of the world. The view and the strong gusts of wind, a signature of the Nu‘uanu Pali, let you know that this is a place of power. Off of Pali Hwy. (Hwy. 61).

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JJOOU URRN NEEYY OON N

ONCE YOU HAVE traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and

Pat Conroy, New York Times bestselling author

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over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.

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Oahu 560 N. Nimitz Hwy Honolulu, Hawaii 96817 808 524-7769

Oahu 550 Ward Ave. Honolulu, Hawaii 96814 808 596-7333

Kailua - Kona 74-5599 Luhia St. Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 808 329-6500

www.HawaiianRugs.com

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