Where Magazine New Orleans Jan 23

LET’S DO BRUNCH!

520 royal street in the french quarter

Picasso

Mr. Brainwash

Jose Basso

Rembrandt

It’s not just for weekends anymore: A growing number of restaurants are adding brunch to their daily menus.

Out & About

Carnvial parades, ”Expressions of America” and a make-yourown perfumery.

ON THE COVER

20 Things We Love About New Orleans

These are a few of our favorite things.

Polenta “Toast”—crispy polenta, crab, roasted poblano, corn vinaigrette and queso—from Birdy’s Behind the Bower.

©RANDY SCHMIDT

DISCOVER HOW THE WAR THAT CHANGED THE WORLD CHANGED THE PEOPLE WHO LIVED IT.

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

New Orleans is a city of many rsts: the rst apartment complex in the U.S. (the Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square), the rst American opera house (where the Four Points by Sheraton now stands on Bourbon Street), the rst public movie theater (Vitascope Hall), the rst cocktail (the Sazerac), the rst “second breakfast” (aka brunch). Madame Begue is credited with revolutionizing the morning meal during the 1800s at her French Quarter restaurant (which would later become known as Tujague’s), catering to hungry dock workers and famished butchers from the nearby French Market

More than 160 years later, you’ll still nd brunch being served at Tujague’s, Friday through Sunday, as well as at its new Lower Garden District o shoot, Birdy’s Behind the Bower, where brunch is on the menu nearly every day of the week. As food writer Lorin Gaudin reports in this issue, daily brunch is a fast-growing trend all over town. From Hoppin’ John Oyster Salad to Adult French Toast, there’s a lot to savor and indulge in.

Elsewhere we spotlight 20 things we love about the city, gear up for Carnival season, check out the National WWII Museum’s new sound-andlight experience, get hands-on at a DIY perfumery and tour Notre-Dame Cathedral without leaving town. Miss Universe, “Jesus Christ Superstar,” Les Ballets Trockadero; there’s plenty to do and experience as well.

If January is any indication, the New Year is going to be a busy one. Best fortify yourself with a Bloody Mary (or two). Cheers to 2023!

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901

MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

PRESIDENT Tina Battock

VICE PRESIDENT Scott Ferguson DIRECTOR — MANUFACTURING & PRODUCTION

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ACCOUNTING MANAGER

Veronica Brooks

CIRCULATION BUSINESS MANAGER

Michelle Rowe

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CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III

CEO Craig S. Mitchell

©2023

CALENDAR

WHAT’S HAPPENING THE LINEUP

JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR

JANUARY 10-15

Long before Lin-Manuel Miranda’s hip-hop “Hamilton” revolutionized 21st-century Broadway, Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice pushed the boundaries with their game-changing 1971 rock opera. Based on nal week of Christ’s life, as told through Judas’ perspective, the provocative passion play initially incited outrage and protests before establishing itself as one of the rst mega musicals. e retooled 50th-anniversary touring production, with its timeless score, contemporary choreography and industrial-cool set, promises to be as edgy and electric as the original. Catch it at the Saenger eatre. saengernola.com

GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH

Notre-Dame de Paris: The Augmented Exhibition All Month

Explore the famed French cathedral's 850-year history and ongoing restoration via immersive hand-held touch-screen tablets at the Historic New Orleans Collection. hnoc.org

New Orleans Pelicans

Jan. 4-28

The Pels play six home games at the Smoothie King Center, starting with the Houston Rockets (Jan. 4) and ending with the Washington Wizards (Dec. 30). smoothiekingcenter.com

Battle of New Orleans

Jan. 7

Cannon and musket rings, camp re cooking demos, living history reenactors in period costume: The nal con ict in the War of 1812 is replayed at nearby Chalmette Battle eld. visitstbernard.com/play/ chalmette-battle eld

New Orleans Saints

Jan. 8

The Black and Gold close out the season taking on

the Carolina Panthers at the Caesars Superdome. caesarssuperdome.com

Miss Universe

Jan. 14

The Morial Convention Center plays host to the world’s “greatest celebration of women.” Close to 90 contestants from 67 countries vie for crowning glory during the 71st annual competition. For tickets, visit ticketmaster.com.

The Temptations and Four Tops

Jan. 20

It’s a veritable Motown throwdown at the Saenger Theatre with the dualling Rock ’n’ Roll Hall of Famers and Grammy Lifetime Achievement awardees performing back-to-back,

hit-heavy sets. saenger nola.com

Dita Von Tease

Jan. 27

Credited with putting “the tease back in striptease” and jumpstarting the neo-burlesque movement during the early aughts, the Bettie Page-esque beauty continues to shake things up at the Civic. civicnola.com

Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo

Jan. 28

This offbeat, all-male troupe has been charming audiences with its campy renditions of dance classics ("Swan Lake") since the 1970s. Watch them work their wacky magic at the Mahalia Jackson Theater. mahailiajacksontheater.com

BATTLE OF N.O.

"JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR"

WHERE NOW

Bang-Up Brunches

Once weekends-only, brunch is now an everyday offering all over town Lorin Gaudin

Brunch is a commitment. It’s a meal with the precise intent to soak up a good portion of the day. A serious brunch takes time…at least two or three hours. This is no spur-of-the-moment thing; we plan for brunch. And typically, brunch involves cocktails—a Mimosa, Milk Punch or Bloody Mary, at the very least—so it tends to be a weekend affair, when there is ample space for the usual post-brunch activity: a nap. Diners’ love for brunch is so strong, many restaurants have added a daily brunch menu to their repertoire. Brunch every day? Is that what we want? These restaurants are banking on “yes.”

MARIGNY/BYWATER

e beautifully restored Peter & Paul Hotel is home to the Elysian Bar (theelysianbar.com), where daily brunch o erings (11 am to 3 pm) are all about savory and sophisticated, not stu y. Breakfast worlds collide deliciously in the Fried Grits with chorizo gravy and a sunny egg. Or go for a perfectly prepared French

rolled omelet with Manchego cheese and ne herbs. For some local seafood sweetness and a touch of heat, dive into Calabrian chili- ecked Roasted Gulf Shrimp with briny bottarga breadcrumbs.

Nearby, but in an equally walkable part of Bywater, Alma (eatalmanola.com) puts a modern twist on chef Melissa Araujo’s native Honduran dishes. Come hungry for the Fritas Hondureñas (fried homemade our tortillas topped with refried beans, crema and crumbled farmers’ cheese) or the stunning Adult French Toast (brandy milk punch-soaked thick-cut bread dolloped with honey-salt mascarpone, berries, citrus-herb-dusted cashews and shakes of powdered sugar). If homemade pastries are in the case, get one for dunking in the deep, dark, divine co ee.

FRENCH QUARTER

Chefs Kara and Evan Benson have secured hearts and stomachs with their charming breakfast/brunch cafés dotted around town. eir French Quarter outpost, French Toast (toastneworleans.com), is super pop-

FROM LEFT: ALMA'S BALIADAS SENCILLA WITH PULLED PORK AND KING CAKE FRENCH TOAST STUFFED WITH CINNAMON CREAM CHEESE FROM FRENCH TOAST; OPPOSITE PAGE: THE ELYSIAN BAR'S BAKED EGGS IN PURGATORY

ular with reason. ere are toasts and French toasts (bien sur!), wa es and eggs (the Ratatouille Omelette is a must), but the savory crêpes lled with onions, peppers, spinach and goat cheese get especially big nods. Prefer sweets in your morning-ish meal? Order the Aebelskivers—pancake pu balls to drag through maple syrup, jam or a silky lemon curd.

Also in the Quarter, Saint John (saintjohnnola.com) o ers a smart, Cajun country-meets city chic, daily brunch. Chef Eric Cook taps into his native roots crafting dishes like the Hoppin’ John Oyster Salad that tosses together bibb lettuce,

crispy Gulf oysters, bacon, smoky black-eyed peas and a sharp, green remoulade. His gumbo is legit, but the gravy-drenched, Smothered Turkey Necks with a scoop of mustardy potato salad is other-worldly. Save room for slices of whatever Pie Mama pies are on hand. Trust us.

CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT/SOUTH MARKET

A South Market staple, e Daily Beet (thedailybeetnola.com) serves an all-day menu of brunchy dishes that lean vegetable-centric and can be “corrected” (wink, wink) with salmon, eggs and avocado. e smoothies and toasts

are popular go-tos, though heartier appetites will want to devour breakfast tacos (corn tortillas lled with pastured egg, sweet potatoes, avocado, pickled red onion, queso fresco and chimichurri) or the Orbit Bowl (warm wild rice, avo, egg, homemade kimchi, edamame, carrot, scallion, nori, sesame and ginger) and guzzle a refreshing cold-pressed juice or an almond/ oat milk Iced Chai Latte.

Bearcat’s Central Business District location (bearcatcafe.com) is another hit for naughty and nice noshing (8 am to 2 pm; 3 pm on weekends). On the naughty side, there’s a lush scramble of eggs and

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©RANDY SCHMIDT (2); ©RUSH JAGOE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SAINT JOHN'S HOPPIN' JOHN OYSTER SALAD AND SMOTHERED TURKEY NECKS AND THE DAILY BEET

Louisiana crabmeat with crispy house potatoes alongside or a decadent Fried Chicken Club topped by two runny eggs, cheese, bacon and tomato. To play nice, order the Vegan Bearcat tofu scramble and black bean “sausage” or rock a Cave Breakfast of Paleo pancakes, pork chop and cauli ower grits. Seven burrito options, bison sausage and stellar co ee. What’s not to love?

UPTOWN

Just beyond the I-10 overpass, heading Uptown on Magazine Street, Birdy’s Behind the Bower (birdysnola.com) is a contempo-

rary brunch oasis serving from 8 am to 2 pm (3 pm on weekends).

e Debris Benedict of shredded beef, eggs and Hollandaise on a buttermilk biscuit will cure what ails. e toasts are standouts, especially the Polenta “Toast” which subs crisp polenta cakes for bread, topped with a buster crab dressed with roasted poblano-corn vinaigrette and crumbled queso fresco. Vegetarian or not, the Mushroom Patty Melt more than satis es, and we recommend the chef’s incomparable gluten-free brioche.

Reservations are de nitely a good idea for the ursdaythrough-Monday brunch service

(10 am to 2:30 pm) at Atchafalaya (atchafalayarestaurant.com).

Tucked into a converted home just o Magazine Street, every meal at Atchafalaya should start with its unique take on Deviled Eggs incorporating kimchi, furikake (a seaweed sprinkle) and chicharron. Follow with the Duck Hash (eggs, duck con t, seasonal fruit, brown-butter Hollandaise and bacon vinaigrette) or the swoon-worthy poached egg, bacon cracklin, Hollandaise-draped “Breakfast” Risotto. For something a touch lighter, there’s a lovely homemade granola, yogurt and fruit parfait.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A SALAD AND MUSHROOM TOAST FROM BIRDY'S, BEARCAT'S CRAB SCRAMBLE AND ATCHAFALAYA'S EGGS ATCHAFALAYA

Out & About

WHAT’S NEW, NOW AND NOT TO BE MISSED

GET THIS MARDI STARTED

Carnival season kicks o Jan. 6 with king cake parties citywide and parades both Uptown and down. e Phunny Phorty

Phellows get things rolling at 7 pm with their annual St. Charles streetcar ride, followed by the Funky Uptown Krewe. In the French Quarter it’s all about martyrdom and medieval merriment, with the Joan of Arc Parade hitting the streets at 7 pm as well. Carnival's rst major parade rolls Jan. 28 when the sci- -themed Intergalactic Krewe of Chewbacchus boldly goes through the Marigny and Quarter starting at 7 pm. phunnyphortyphellows.com; funkyuptownkrewe.com; joanofarcparade.org; chewbacchus.org

EXPRESSIONS OF GRATITUDE

e National WWII Museum’s new Expressions of America soundand-light experience salutes the epic battle on an epic scale. Guests are transported back to the 1940s via 21st-century technology, with more than 500 archival images

projected 90-feet-tall onto campus building facades. Narrated by actor Gary Sinise, using rst-person accounts culled from wartime journals and millions of letters exchanged during the global con ict, the 30-minute production also pays tribute to Bob Hope and his uplifting USO shows and those who served on the home front. expressionsofamerica.org

MAKES SCENTS

Looking for a one-of-a-kind Valentine’s gift or great group activity? Nose around the Tijon New Orleans perfumery, where you’ll nd a variety of handcrafted fragrances for both sexes, including the Crescent City Collection, which ranges from oral and citrusy to grassy and herbaceous. For a truly unique scent, throw on a lab coat, choose a few oils from the 300plus o ered, then blend and bottle your own. Workshops are o ered three times daily, with knowledgeable sta on hand to guide you through the process. You-do-you eau de parfum. 631 Toulouse St., 504.428.8422; tijon.com

(FROM TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; ©TIJON NEW ORLEANS

FROM TOP: THE INTERGALACTIC KREWE OF CHEWBACCHUS, "EXPRESSIONS OF AMERICA" AND TIJON NEW ORLEANS

20 ings We Love About New Orleans

1Happily succumbing to Death by Gumbo at Restaurant R’evolution.

2 e Saenger eatre’s twinkling celestial ceiling.

3New Orleans street-tile and water-meter replicas from Derby Pottery.

4Battling the winter doldrums with colorful Mardi Gras oat owers from Miette.

5 e book-spine portrait of author James Baldwin at Baldwin & Co.

6Bar Mailou’s eld-pea fritters and secret bookcase entrance…shhh!

7Two-wheeling around town on Blue Bike rentals. Register at bluebikesnola.com and get rolling!

8Bonfolk Socks’ goodenough-to-eat, foodthemed footwear.

9Photographer Lana Gramlich’s massive, moss-drape oaks greeting visitors in the main terminal at Armstrong International Airport.

10 e New Orleans Jazz Museum’s weekly jazz yoga sessions and free balcony performances (Tuesdays at 5 pm).

11 aihey NOLA’s crab fried rice and red curry frog legs.

12 Shopping the full six miles of retailpacked Magazine Street.

13 Getting educated and lubricated at the same time on a Drink + Learn walking tour of the French Quarter.

14 Exploring the New Orleans Museum of Art’s free, 11-acre sculpture garden.

15 e sweeping Southern coastal scapes at Billy Solitario Fine Art.

16 Recreating French Quarter ambiance at home with Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights.

17 Eating our way through the King Cake Hub’s (kingcakehub. com) various varieties.

18 Artist Betsy Youngquist’s weirdly wonderful, beaded sculptures at Myth Gallery.

19 Locally produced Cajun caviar, found on menus and at grocers citywide.

20 e Pontalba Buildings encircling Jackson Square, the nation’s rst apartment complex.

HAPPY NEW CHEER

A sampling of sparkling wines from E ervescence (p. 33). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call ahead to verify hours.

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District BÉSAME

Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (Th-Su), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com

CAFÉ CARMO

International. This tropicalminded space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (fried and grilled plantains topped with pulled pork). Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L, D (Tu-Sa). 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6; cafecarmo.com

CHEMIN À LA MER

Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks.

B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS

Steaks. Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; chophousenola.com

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (Tu-Su). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

COMMONS CLUB

Southern. Chef Alex Harrell’s ramped-up regional fare is anything but common. Roasted carrots with harissa, romesco,

hibiscus and pecans, rabbit leg with squash and fermentedgreens spaetzle—see what we mean? D (nightly); Br (F-Su).

550 Baronne St. (in the Virgin Hotel), 833.791.7700. Map 3, C4; virginhotels.com/new-orleans

COMPÈRE LAPIN

Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pickled pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com

COPPER VINE

American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up truffle fries, a wide variety of small plates and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervinewine.com

COUVANT

French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include blue crab gnocchi with chiligarlic crisp and a côte de boeuf for two with black garlic bordelaise. B (daily), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 3, D5; couvant.com

THE DAILY BEET

Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this hip café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com

DOMENICA

Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagna Bolognese. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

GIANNA

Italian. The focus here is on homey, rustic Italian cuisine. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb-and-mushroom lasagna, veal saltimbocca with pasta bordelaise; finish with a gelato and biscotti. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com

GRAND ISLE

Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. D (W-Sa); Br (F-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com

HERBSAINT

French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com

JOSEPHINE

ESTELLE

Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, the meatballs incorporate beef and pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M, W-F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com

LÜKE

International. A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. Creole melds with classic French bistro fare

(shrimp bisque, moules et frites) and fresh Louisiana seafood. Great happy hour. L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4; lukeneworleans.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into satsuma chili-glazed duck breast or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants. com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and saltcrusted snapper. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

NOLA CAYE

Caribbean. At this islandinspired space loads of seafood options and a strong taco list sit opposite jerk fish and braised oxtails over jalapenocheddar grits. L (Th-F), D (Th-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 898 Baronne St., 504.302.1302. Map 3, B5; nolacaye.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

POKE LOA

Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke

bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com

SEAWORTHY

Seafood This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West Coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY

Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; stjamescheese.com

TAVA INDIAN STREET FOOD

Indian. One of the only spots in the city to find crispy paper masala dosa. The Chicken 65 sandwich comes piled with pickled cucumbers and spicy garlic slaw, while the Bombay mixes masala potatoes with mint chutney, red onion and

tomatoes. L, D (W-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.766.9612. Map 3, B4; tavanola.com

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com

TSUNAMI

Sushi. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com

WILLA JEAN

Contemporary. Beautiful baked goods and fluffy biscuits will draw you in at breakfast, while the BBQ shrimp toast will bring you back for lunch. Grab a chocolate chip cookie for later. B, L (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4; willajean.com

French Quarter

ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L (M, Th-F), D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes.

D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnaudsrestaurant.com

BAYONA

Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com

BETTY’S BAR & BISTRO

American. Belly up to this fun neighborhood bar for blue cheese burgers topped with fried egg, chicken sandwiches, quesadillas, wings and loaded sweet potato fries. Open late. L, D (daily) 700 Burgundy St., 504.354.1222. Map 3, G3; bettysbar.com

BIJOU

International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here. Kick off with fried goat cheese and tomato jam before moving on an elegant braised lamb or meatless curried cauliflower. Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (M, W-Sa). 1014 N Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com

BOURBON HOUSE

Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp. L, D (Th-Su). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (Th-M). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennansneworleans.com

BROUSSARD’S

Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the French Quarter’s premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. The kitchen turns out

long-popular classics, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (W-Sa); Br (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com.

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

CANE

& TABLE

Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com

COURT

OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CURIO

American. Curious what “American cuisine with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-and-duck gumbo and fried alligator with pepper jelly and cilantro-lime mayo. B, L, D (daily). 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4; curionola.com

DIAN XIN

Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish

bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on.

L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinnnola.com; dianxinonconti.com

DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE

Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Think a sharable Chateaubriand or a 6-ounce filet with flash-fried oysters and béarnaise. Great Irish whiskey selection. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannans steakhouse.com

DORIS METROPOLITAN

Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

FRENCH TRUCK

Coffee. French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open daily. 217 Chartres St., 504.605.2899. Map 3, F4; 650 Poydras St., 504. 800.8090. Map 3, D5; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115, Map 3, 7; 2917 Magazine St., 504.399.9890. Map 1, D4; frenchtruckcoffee.com

GALATOIRE’S

Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209

Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

IRENE’S CUISINE

Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH

Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. D (W-Su); Br (Su). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

LATITUDE 29

Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the

spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

PALACE CAFÉ

Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. L (Th-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com

PALM & PINE

Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s crispy pig ears and glazed Texas quail or dig into closer-to-home flavors of a crab-and-shrimp cocktail. D (W-M), Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

PELICAN CLUB

Louisiana. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The whole crispy fish is excellent, as is the herb-crusted rack of lamb. Start with the lump crab and shrimp ravigote. D (W-Sa). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; pelicanclub.com

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION

Louisiana. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegantyet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (W-Su). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

STANLEY

Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com

SYLVAIN

Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub near Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com

TABLEAU

Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. D (W-Su); Br (Th-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com

DINING

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

TUJAGUE’S

Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

ATCHAFALAYA

Louisiana. Look for the giant cast-iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and dishes such as free-form blue crab ravioli and crispy duck. Br, D (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; atchafalayarestaurant.com

BIRDY’S BEHIND THE BOWER

Contemporary. A bright, welcoming space serving near-daily brunch of biscuits, eggs, bubble waffles, burgers, bowls, salads and more. Br (Th-Tu). 1320 Magazine St., 504.302.2992. Map 1, D4; birdysnola.com

THE BOWER

Contemporary. Chef Marcus Woodham works closely with local farmers to keep his menu fresh and seasonal. Cheese and charcuterie boards give way to gorgeous house-made pastas and grilled Gulf fish. D (M-Sa). 1320 Magazine St., 504.582.9738. Map 1, D4; thebowernola.com

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave.,

504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (M-Sa). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

FAT BOY PANTRY

Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb bellyand-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514; fatboypantry.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen. Grab a seat at the bar and watch the action.

Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

JACK ROSE

Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the tony Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think mushroom pozole and pappardelle with lamb bacon. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com

LENGUA MADRE

Mexican. Chef Ana Castro and team turn out a five-star, five-course tasting menu of reimagined traditional Mexican cuisine. The adventurous menu changes with the seasons. D (W-Su). 145 Constance St., 504.655.1338. Map 1, D3; lenguamadrenola.com

SAN LORENZO

Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Great wine list. L (M-F),

D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

ALMA

Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3;eatalmanola.com

AYU BAKEHOUSE

Bakery. Contemporary baked goods are the get here. Buttery chive biscuits, chocolate babka knots, muffuletta breadsticks, boudin-stuffed croissants— yum, yum and more yum. B, L (daily). 801 Frenchmen St., 504.302.7985. Map 3, J4; ayubakehouse.com

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

BYWATER

AMERICAN BISTRO

American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with smoked-corn purée, jerk chicken with semolina dumplings; try the pork belly and pineapple rice. D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this longpopular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese) or full-on entrees, such as roasted duck with brandied cherry jus. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

ELIZABETH’S

American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this low-key neighborhood spot. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (daily). 601 Gallier St. 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR

Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. Br, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com

N7

French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Escargot, steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City

ADDIS NOLA

African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. D (W-M). 2514 Bayou

THE NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM PRESENTS

Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

ANGELO BROCATO’S

Bakery. This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glasstopped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2; angelobrocatoicecream.com

BLUE OAK BBQ

Live from the Balcony Concert Series

TUESDAYS 56 PM

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ

Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net

PARKWAY BAKERY

Louisiana The menu here is long but simple: po’boys, po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com

RALPH’S ON THE PARK

Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. L (W-F), D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; ralphsonthepark.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel

DINING/SHOPPING

and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

ZASU

Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, tuna crudo, salmon with caramelized sauerkraut and dill spaetzle. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN

AVO

Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

CASAMENTO’S

Seafood. Open since 1919, this Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for plump Gulf bivalves. Get them fried for sandwiches built on thick slices of toast, floating in buttery stew or simply raw and cold on the half shell. L (Th-Sa), D (Th-Su). 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4; casamentosrestaurant.com

THE CHLOE

Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out steller dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com

COSTERA

Spanish This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (patatas bravas, beef shank-and-potato bombas), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

LA BOULANGERIE

Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet

artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own.

B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

LILETTE

French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com

LUVI

Asian. Chef Hao Gong combines traditional and contemporary Chinese cuisine (spicy dan dan noodles, melt-in-your mouth dumplings) with artful raw seafood dishes. The “Feed Me” option offers a bit of both. D (Tu-Sa). 5236 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.605.3340. Map 1, D4; luvirestaurant.com

MISTER MAO

Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

SABA

Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine

St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

SAFFRON NOLA

Indian. Elevated Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and the oyster bed roast. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com

WISHING TOWN BAKERY & CAFÉ

Chinese. Hong Kong-style dumplings and super-cool baked goods are on tap here. Order from the long list of dumplings, noodles, salads and soups. L, D (daily). 802 Nashville Ave., 504.533.9166; wishingtown.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY

The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; agallery.com

ALEX BEARD STUDIO

This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; alexbeardstudio.com

ANGELA KING GALLERY

One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird and Woodrow Nash, 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each

of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY

One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

ASHLEY LONGSHORE

Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; ashleylongshore.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

BRASS

MONKEY

This tiny storefront has one of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the French Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4

CALLAN CONTEMPORARY

Works by modern-day American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6; callancontemporary.com

CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY

Emerging local and regional contemporary artists are

KILLER POBOYS

spotlighted here. Works range from paintings and photography to sculpture and papercuts, 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5; claireelizabethgallery.com

COLE PRATT GALLERY

One of Magazine Street’s leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4; coleprattgallery.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

DR. BOB’S STUDIO

219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731

”Be Nice or Leave” is the trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose fun folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey and others. “Tourists tolerated.” 3027 Chartres St., 504.701.7297. Map 1, E3; drbobart.net

DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP

This artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5; dutchalleyartistsco-op.com

ELLIOTT GALLERY

Fine contemporary and modern art from world-renowned artists is the standard here. Artists represented include Theo Tobiasse, James Coignard, Max Papart, Nissan Engel, Garrick Yrondi, David Schneuer, Petra Seipel, Picasso, Miró and Chagall. 540 Royal St., 504.523.3554. Map 3, G4; elliottgallery.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the

private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 440 Julia St., 504.547.5931. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP

Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4; gofrenchantiques.com

GALLERY B. FOS

“I gather inspiration from all corners of this wild, beautiful and colorful city,” says local artist Becky Fos, which is reflected in her vibrant oil works. Using her palette and fingers, Fos captures everything from pelicans and crawfish to musicians and Carnival parades. 2138 Magazine St., 504.444.2967. Map 1, D4; beckyfos.com

GALLERY ORANGE

Modern-minded collectors will be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works here. A mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4; gallery-orange.com

GRAPHITE GALLERY

Something cutting-edge and cool? You’ll likely find it here. Works by emerging and midcareer artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw, along with up-and-coming local talents. 936 Royal St., 505. 577.7873. Map 3, H4; graphitenola.com

HAROUNI GALLERY

David Harouni has an eye for heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4; harouni.com

IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES

This impressive showroom features 17th-, 18th- and 19thcentury French, English, Dutch

and Continental furniture, fine paintings, European porcelain and statuary. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4; idamanheimantiques.com

JAMES H. COHEN & SONS

This fifth-generation, familyrun business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19thcentury weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. 437 Royal St., 504.522.33056. Map 3, F4; cohenantiques.com

JONATHAN FERRARA

GALLERY

Home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6; jonathanferraragallery.com

KEIL’S ANTIQUES

Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com

LEMIEUX GALLERIES

Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; lemieuxgalleries.com

LEROY’S PLACE

A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture. 922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com

LUCKY ROSE GALLERY

Devoted to the stunning porcelain sculpture of artistowner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4; cathyrose.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century

antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES

This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limited-edition graphics by such famed artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol and Erté, among others. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; martinlawrence.com

MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY

Contemporary is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists are featured. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5; martinechaissongallery.com

MICHALOPOULOS

The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com

MODERNIST CUISINE

GALLERY

Photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cuttingedge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4; modernistcuisinegallery.com

MOSS ANTIQUES

Fine art objects, jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories fill this gallery. The merchandise comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; mossantiques.com

(MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY

David Bowie, Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads

like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians and colorful landscapes. 627 St. Peter St.; mostlyrocknroll.com

MYTH GALLERY

Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded creations will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4; myth-gallery.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

SCENE BY RHYS

“New Orleans music inked into art.” Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. 1036 Royal St., 504.258.5842. Map 3, H4; scenebyrhys.com

STELLA JONES GALLERY

New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for African American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave. #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4; stellajonesgallery.com

STUDIO SOLITARIO

Monet, Hopper, Sargent: Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies. Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4; billysolitario.com

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent

City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES

Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; wirthmoreantiques.com

Books & Music

BALDWIN & CO.

In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP

Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at the sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; bechambookshop.com

CRESCENT CITY BOOKS

Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997.

Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks.com

EUCLID RECORDS

Two well-organized floors of new and used LPs share space with CDs, vintage concert posters and comics.

It’s easy to spend an hour (or two) rummaging the racks here. 3301 Chartres St., 504.504.947.4348. Map 1, E3; euclidrecordsneworleans.com

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS

For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940.

Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com

GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP

This well-stocked shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 2, D4; gardendistrictbookshop.com

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

PEACHES RECORDS

For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4

Clothing

BILLY REID

Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com

CENTURY GIRL

A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous retro fashions and beautiful costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4;centurygirlvintage.com

DARK GARDEN

An offshoot of the acclaimed San Francisco corsetry and couture shop famed for its customized corsets and outof-the-norm bridal wear. 3528 Magazine St., 504.417.9751. Map 1, D4; darkgarden.com/nola

DIRTY COAST

Skip the tacky Bourbon Street T-shirts. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

PIPPEN LANE

Go ahead and spoil the child at this upscale boutique, which features designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, along with great toys, books and gift items. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4; pippenlane.com

TASC

Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com

TRASHY DIVA

Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS

A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock

items. From everyday casual wear to elegant designer wear, you’ll find it here at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; 3306 Magazine St., 504.354.2777. Map 1, D4; shopual.com

VICE & GRAFT

The inventory at this small shop is always new, thanks to a rotating collection of bygone finds by its owner. There’s a little something for everyone who delights in collectible vintage. 927 Royal St., 505.605.0500. Map 3, H4; viceandgraft.com

WEINSTEIN’S

Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; weinsteinsinc.com

Gifts & Collectibles

THE BEAD SHOP

Why shuck out big bucks for plastic beads when you can get the real deal for less? Do your own string at this boutique, which carries 1,000 varieties of baubles from around the globe. 4612 Magazine St., 504.895.6161. Map 1, D4; beadshopneworleans.com

BOTTOM

OF THE CUP

In addition to psychic readings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4; bottomofthecup.com

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS

Watch master cigar makers at work in the city’s oldest and only cigar factory. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206

Bourbon St., 504.5680168. Map 3, E4; cigarfactory neworleans.com

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified birds and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

DERBY POTTERY & TILE

Mark Derby’s elegant Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; derbypottery.com

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

FOREVER NEW ORLEANS

These shops overflow with cool keepsakes, from NOLA-themed T-shirts and tea towels to pottery and puzzles, along with a selection of local books. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; shopforeverneworleans.com

HEX OLD WORLD WITCHERY

A magical emporium offering everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5; hexwitch.com

IDEA FACTORY

Unique woodworking from around the U.S. This eclectic shop is geared to both young and old, offering toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custommade signs. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4; ideafactoryneworleans.com

MIETTE

Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique. Locally made jewelry, crafts and home accents are featured. 2038 Magazine St., 504. 522.2883. Map 1, D4; iheartmiette.com

NOLA BOARDS

Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 1, D4; nolaboards.com

NOLA KIDS

This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com

OMEN

This witchcraft shop offers psychic readings, along with candles, brooms and the city’s largest selection of tarot decks. Psychics are also available for private events. 1205 Decatur St., 504.322.7440. Map 3, I4; omensalem.com

Hats, Shoes & Accessories

BELLA UMBRELLA

Cloudy skies? This shop helps keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrellas. 2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4; bellaumbrella.com

FLEUR DE PARIS

You’re guaranteed to turn heads when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4; fleurdeparis.shop

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip

headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

JON FLUEVOG

“Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com

MEYER THE HATTER

The oldest hat store in the South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of headwear in the country. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4; meyerthehatter.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

Jewelry ADLER’S

Since 1898 Adler’s has been New Orleans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry, watches, china and silver. 722 Canal St., 504.523.5292. Map 3, 4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952. Map 1, C2; adlersjelewry.com

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

PORTER LYONS

Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com

WELLINGTON & CO.

This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art

Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER

A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors and Sephora. 301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Karl Lagerfeld Paris, Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON PARK

Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO

Inhabited by more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open Th-M, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

CEASARS SUPERDOME

Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com

CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEMETERY

Just downriver from where Andrew Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. 8606 W. St. Bernard Hwy., Chalmette, 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3; nps.gov/jela/ chalmette-battlefield.htm

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com

CRESCENT PARK

Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescentparknola.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

FULTON ALLEY

Putting a contemporary spin on the old bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with parlor games (bocce, foosball, etc.), craft cocktails and bigflavored small plates. 600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6; fultonalley.com.

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is

Enjoy authentic Mardi Gras experiences, o the eaten path, in Louisiana's Cajun Bayou, located just 35 miles south of New Orleans. Y'all come visit, now!

located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of great dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/ harrahs-new-orleans

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

JAMNOLA

Part Crescent City cultural museum/part Pee-wee’s Playhouse, this innovative attraction takes visitors on a vibrant visual journey through local life, as envisioned by 20 area artists. Open W-Su. 2832 Royal St. Map 1, E3; jamnola.com

JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND BARATARIA PRESERVE

On this 26,000-acre area of protected wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882. Map 2, F2; nps.gov/jela

LAFITTE GREENWAY

This 2.6-mile bike and pedestrian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. Map 3, F2; lafittegreenway.org

MARDI GRAS WORLD

It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Daily tours, 9 am-5:30 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; mardigrasworld.com

NEW ORLEANS CULINARY & HOSPITALITY INSTITUTE

Catering to foodies, this stateof-the-art facility offers a variety of hands-on courses, along with a taste of Crescent City culinary history. 725

Howard Ave., 504.891.4060. Map 3, B5; nochi.org

NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE

In operation since 1872, this ranks as the nation’s thirdoldest Thoroughbred race course. The site serves as home base for the annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., 504.944.5515. Map 1, D2; fairgroundsracecourse.com

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK

This pocket-sized park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Allen Toussaint, Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offer cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4

NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING

Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Handson and private sessions are also available; reservations required. 524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665.

Map 3, F5; nosoc.com

OLD URSULINE CONVENT

Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouiscathedral.org

PONTALBA BUILDINGS

Erected in 1851, the stately red-brick townhouses flaking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries.

Map 3, G5

PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE

This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings . 333 Canal St., 3rd

fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

STUDIO BE

Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

VUE ORLEANS

Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360-degree observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

WOLDENBERG PARK

This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

ZIP NOLA

This half-mile zipline course through the Maurepas Swamp offers five separate lines and

two suspension bridges, along with an educational overview of the area’s unique ecosystem and inhabitants. Transportation available. 301 Peavine Rd., LaPlace, 504.350.0947. Map 2, E2; zipnola.com

Historic Homes

BK HISTORIC HOUSE AND GARDENS

This beautifully restored 1826 villa is the former residence of both Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4; bkhouse.org

DEGAS HOUSE

The home where Edgar Degas lived during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grandnieces, are offered. Reservations required. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2; degashouse.com

GALLIER HOUSE

The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, . Tours offered W-M, 9:30 am-2:30 pm (no 11:30 tour). 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; hgghh.org

HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE

Built in 1831, this house/museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; hgghh.org

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942,

Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

LAURA PLANTATION

TripAdvisor’s top-rated River Road plantation tour authentically details 200 years of lives of Creole owners, women, slaves and children. The property features 12 historic structures, along with a slavery museum and French garden. Open daily, 10 am-3:20 pm. 2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690; lauraplantation.com

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION

This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-4:30 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18 Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802; oakalleyplantation.org

PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM

Located along scenic Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2; louisianalandmarks.org

WHITNEY PLANTATION

Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

Museums

ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE

Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric send-up of “redneck culture” features oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 22275 Highway 36, Abita Springs, La., 985.892.2624. abitamysteryhouse.com

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM

This offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive”

Attractions

THE GUIDE

with memorabilia from famous send-offs. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org

GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM

Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish gowns, costumes and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S

MUSEUM

Kids learn through a “bajillion” hands-on activities at this award-winning museum. Its sprawling space in City Park offers a variety of interactive exhibits both indoors and out, geared to ages 8 and under, along with a kid-friendly café. 15 Thomas Henry Dr. (City Park), 504.523.1357. Map 3, D2; lcm.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum.

Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

MARDI GRAS MUSEUM OF COSTUMES AND CULTURE

Carl “Mr. Costume” Mack displays his private collection of Carnival get-ups in this fun, interactive space connected to his rental shop. Open Th-M. 1010 Conti St., 504.218.4872. Map 3, F3; themardigrasmuseum.com

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM

This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org

NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore the misunderstood religion through artifacts and exhibits. Readings and cemetery tours are also available. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4; voodoomuseum.com

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM

The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live

performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM

This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open Tu-Su, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFab features exhibits, along with cooking classes. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; southernfood.org

Performing Arts

CIVIC THEATRE

New Orleans’ oldest theater, dating to 1906, has hosted everything from vaudeville shows to discos. The recently overhauled venue now hosts concerts by top national touring acts. 510 O’Keefe Ave.,

504.272.0865. Map 3, C4; civicnola.com

JOY THEATER

This former 1940s movie palace has been revamped as multi-use facility for musical, comedy and theatrical productions. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569. Map 3, D2; thejoytheater.com

LE PETIT THÉÂTRE DU VIEUX CARRÉ

This historic space houses one the nation’s longest-running community playhouses. Step into the adjacent Tableau restaurant for pre- and posttheater cocktails. 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081. Map 3, G4; lepetittheatre.com

MAHALIA JACKSON THEATRE FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS

This 2,200-seat venue anchoring Armstrong Park hosts performances by the New Orleans Opera and the New Orleans Ballet, as well as national touring acts. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets, 504.525.1052. Map 3, G4; mahaliajacksontheater.com

ORPHEUM THEATER

This jaw-dropping century-old, 1500-seat theater (home of the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra) features two balcony levels, VIP box seating, six bars—some located in the stairwells. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4871. Map 3, E3; orpheumnola.com

SAENGER THEATRE

This circa-1927 baroque beauty plays host to the popular Broadway Across America series, in addition to major music and comedy acts. 1111 Canal St., 504.287.0351. Map 3, E3; saengernola.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee.

504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

CAJUN ENCOUNTERS

Daily Honey Island Swamp tours for both large and small groups are offered, along with hotel pickups and drop-offs. Call for times, prices and reservations. 53345 Hwy. 90, Slidell, 504.834.1770. Map 2, G1; cajunencounters.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS

These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also available. 504.400.5468; confederacyofcruisers.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and twohour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

DOWN BY THE RIVER

This group bike tour along historic River Road isn’t your standard plantation country outing. Conducted by the Louisiana Bucket Brigade nonprofit, the four-hour excursion delves deep into local Black history and environmental justice issues. Bikes and helmets included. labucketbrigade.org

DRINK + LEARN

Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS

These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries music. All tours depart from the Voodoo Lounge; reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; frenchquarterphantoms.com

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO

Insightful two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; friendsofthecabildo.org

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED

HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

KNOW NOLA TOURS

Specializing in Black heritage and culture, guide Malik Bartholomew conducts walking tours of the Tremé, French Quarter and Garden District. Custom excursions are also available. 504.264.2483. knownolatours.com

NOLA DRAG TOURS

Guide Quinn Laroux takes visitors back in time, exploring the city’s LGBTQ+ history.

Entertaining, informative and empowering, the French Quarter walking tour also highlights the oft-overlooked contributions of women and people of color. noladragtours.com

PIRATES OF THE QUARTER

Arrr, maties! “Historically accurate, hysterically entertaining” walking tours explore early 1800s pirate life and lore. Tours daily at 10 am and 4:30 pm. Pub crawls are also offered F-Sa at 7 pm. Meet at 533 Toulouse St. 504.442.3409. Map 3, F4; piratesofthequarter.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

VIP CITY TOURS

These two-hour, airconditioned outings provide a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. 621 St. Peter St., 504.329.2489. Map 3, G4; vipcitytours.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75

Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

AVENUE PUB

The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3; theavenuepub.com

BARCADIA

A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-school games (Jenga, Skeeball, air hockey) are the draw... along with 30-plus beers on tap, easygoing eats and live entertainment on weekends. 601

Tchoupitoulas St., 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6; barcadianola.com

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

BARREL PROOF

From Japanese Yamazaki to Kentucky-aged Old GrandDad, the top shelf at this Lower Garden District hot spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. 1201 Magazine St., 504.299.1888. Map 3, A7; barrelproofnola.com

THE BULLDOG

The patio is the way to go at this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the 48-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; draftfreak.com

CAROUSEL BAR

Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

DOUBLE DEALER

Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy woos with curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of entertainment. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.300.0212. Map 3, E3; doubledealernola.com

EFFERVESCENCE

This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine,

along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; nolabubbles.com

HERMES BAR

This hedonistic hideaway inside Antoine’s restaurant offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance and knowledgeable bartenders. 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4; antoines.com

HOT TIN

Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this chic space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com

KILROY’S

The Higgins Hotel’s retro-cool bar serves up a large selection of rums, WWII-themed cocktails and Southern-accented small plates. 1000 Magazine St.,504.528.1941. Map 3, B6; higginshotelnola.com

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

NOLA BREWING

A massive tap room, outdoor tables and an in-house pizzeria make this a must-stop for beer fans. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 1, D4; nolabrewing.com

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PEACOCK ROOM

It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space.

While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails. 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, E5; hotelfontenot.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

PEYCHAUD’S

Classic cocktails—Sazeracs, French 75s, Ramos Gin Fizzes— in a classic French Quarter setting, where the inventor of Peychaud’s bitters once lived. 727 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; maisondeville.com

R BAR

This unpretentious watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut…and a shot. 431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4; royalstreetinn.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

URBAN SOUTH BREWERY

Housed in a 19th-century warehouse near the Convention Center, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” Open daily, its kid-friendly tap room features a variety of brews crafted on site. 1645 Tchoupitoulos St., 504.267.4852. Map 1, E4; urbansouthbrewery.com

THE WILL & THE WAY

Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this not-so-hidden gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated, easy-to-digest bar bites menu.

719 Toulouse St. thewillandthe way.com

Live Entertainment

APPLE BARREL BAR

This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J4

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

CAFÉ NEGRIL

This intimate club features crowd-pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae, and an island-themed atmosphere that sets a mellow vibe. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.383.5131. Map 3, J5; cafenegrilnola.com

D.B.A.

A Frenchmen Street must-do featuring 20 draught beers, fine tequilas and single malts and live music nightly. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; dbaneworleans.com

THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE

An elegant escape inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E4; ritzcarlton.com

THE FILLMORE

Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured; retro burlesque on Fridays. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

MAPLE LEAF

A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

REPUBLIC NOLA

One of downtown’s hottest nightspots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; republicnola.com

SNUG HARBOR

An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com

THE SPOTTED CAT

This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former performance space in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting headliners. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

NEW ORLEANS

MAP 1:

NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

PARTING SHOT

Sign, Sign, Everywhere a Sign

The ceramic street markers found on French Quarter buildings were a 1959 gift from Talavera de la Reina, Spain, commemorating the city’s Spanish rule during the late 18th century.