Museum
Must-Sees
PBR Bucks
Into Town
On the Bagel Beat
St. Patrick’s Shenanigans
Museum
Must-Sees
PBR Bucks
Into Town
On the Bagel Beat
St. Patrick’s Shenanigans
THE TENNESSEE WILLIAMS
FESTIVAL AND MORE FUN EVENTS
12
From 19thcentury Creole life to 21st-century Southern art, we’ve got a museum experience just for you.
15
A trio of book festivals, a trio of music and food fests and one bucking good time. 16
Once bagel-bereft, suddenly the city is brimming with boiled and baked beauties.
Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org
Dutch Alley
Artist’s Co-op Sabine Chadborn came to New Orleans from Germany in 1991. Focused on wire wrapping, she took metalsmith classes in Pforzheim, Germany and at Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts in Tennessee. Sabine loves natural stones mounted in traditional settings. The “Bubbles” are her circular designs in various con gurations.
Stop waking up and putting on boring socks! Socks on the Square in the historic Upper Pontalba Building overlooking Jackson Square offers a unique selection of socks for all foot sizes and sensibilities. The New Orleans collection includes beignet and coffee, eur de lis and streetcar designs, making them the perfect NOLA memento.
March 4
St. Joseph’s Day Celebration
The celebration will include panel discussions with Black Masking Indians and New Orleanians of Sicilian decent sharing holiday history and cultural traditions from their respective communities.
May 13
Asian Pacific American Heritage Festival
Festivities will feature cultural performances, food vendors, and community organizations.
© ZACK SMITH ST. JOSEPH’S ALTAR: ©SHAWN FINKFull disclosure: I am a former board member of the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival, played Perchik in a college production of “Fiddler on the Roof,” have an a nity for both bagels and museums and judged the Hogs for the Cause barbecue competition multiple times. Oh, and Morris Communications, publisher of WhereTraveler, owns the Nashville Stampede, a Professional Bull Riders team.
Paging through this month’s issue, one might think I have some vested interest in its coverage. But honestly, I just love this city and all it o ers, and sharing that love with others. Take in the Williams fest’s ridiculously fun Stella & Stanley Shouting Contest, featured on our cover, and you’ll be hard-pressed not to fall for it too. And what’s not to like about gumbo, green beer and citywide St. Patrick’s celebrations?
For all its big city swagger, at heart New Orleans is really a small town. So, it’s only natural that Andrew LaMar Hopkins, whose Louisiana State Museum exhibit we highlight, was one of the rst people I found roaming the Quarter after Katrina. Back then he was just Andrew; now he’s an art world phenom, the toast of Manhattan and Paris, who just had one of his works acquired by the National Gallery.
Call it nepotism, favoritism or what you will. In truth, it’s more a testament to living in this great city and having a job that allows me to experience and promote it. To borrow from “Fiddler”—“to life, to life, l’chaim!”
Or in the local vernacular—laissez les bon temps rouler!
PUBLISHER
Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com
EDITOR
Doug Brantley
ART DIRECTOR
Hadley Kincaid
CONTRIBUTORS
Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin
ACCOUNT MANAGERS Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com
A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901
MCC MAGAZINES, LLC
PRESIDENT Tina Battock
VICE PRESIDENT Scott Ferguson DIRECTOR — MANUFACTURING & PRODUCTION
Sherry Brown
ACCOUNTING MANAGER
Veronica Brooks
CIRCULATION BUSINESS MANAGER
Michelle Rowe
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CHAIRMAN
William S. Morris III
CEO Craig S. Mitchell
MARCH 3, 11 & 17
That clamor in the Quarter March 3 at noon? That’s the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Club “practicing” for its parade, which rolls along Magazine Street March 11 at 1 pm, tossing cabbages, carrots and kisses along the way. But the big blowout is on St. Pat’s proper: Grab a Guinness from Molly’s at the Market, a Frozen Irish Coffee at the Erin Rose or a Fuzzy Leprechaun from Pat O’Brien’s and hit the streets of the French Quarter, like the Downtown Irish Club Parade does at 7 pm. stpatricksdayneworleans.com
Through March 5
“A ddler on the roof. Sounds crazy, no?” Even crazier is that this retooled Broadway musical about a Jewish milkman clinging to tradition in a fast-changing world remains as relevant
today as when it debuted nearly 60 years ago. saengernola.com
New Orleans Pelicans
March 8-23
The Pels play six home games at the Smoothie King Center this month, starting with the Dallas Mavericks (Mar. 8) and ending with the Charlotte Hornets (Mar. 23). For a full lineup, visit smoothie kingcenter.com.
Wednesday at the Square
March 15, 22 & 29
The free outdoor concert series returns to Lafayette Square with Water Seed and the Rumble (Mar. 15), Maggie Koerner and
Louis Michot (Mar. 22) and Galactic with YUSA (Mar. 29). Performances begin at 5 pm. ylcwats.com
Patti LaBelle
March 17
What’s sweeter than the Grandmother of Soul’s sweet potato pie? Seeing the Grammy Hall of Famer perform. saengernola.com
NOLA on Tap
March 18
Beer lovers, start your engines. Better yet, call an Uber for this toast-worthy suds celebration. nolaontap.com
Super Sunday
March 19
The Black Masking Indians
strut their feathered and beaded nery around the Central City neighborhood. The colorful procession begins at 1 pm at A.L. Davis Park (Washington Ave. and LaSalle St.), unless the forecast calls for rain.
Stella & Stanley Shouting Contest
March 19
Long the nale for the annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival, this mustsee moves to the Sunday before the fest. Taking their cue from the playwright’s French Quarter-set “A Streetcar Named Desire,” contestants bellow for Brando bragging rights at Jackson Square starting at 4 pm. tenneessewilliams.net
Eight great museum exhibits and experiences you need to seek out
Not in town for Super Sunday (p. 10)? Even if you are, the elaborately designed Black Masking Indian suits on display at this Tremé neighborhood institution are still well worth a visit. Over the years, late founder Sylvester Francis amassed a huge collection of artifacts and ephemera chronicling the city’s culture bearers and processional traditions. Today his daughter Dominique carries on her father’s legacy of “keeping jazz funerals alive” with displays on Indian tribes, second-line parades, Mardi Gras Skull and Bones gangs and the beloved Baby Dolls.
THE CABILDO
Self-taught folk artist/antiquarian/historian/drag queen Andrew LaMar Hopkins
went from working at the Louisiana State Museum’s 1850s House gift shop to being the rst living Black artist to have a solo exhibit at its nearby Cabildo. Creole New Orleans, Honey! examines 19th-century local life and society through more than 70 of Hopkins’ period-perfect paintings. Divided into ve sections, the highly detailed, historically accurate depictions are coupled with items re ected in them (Campeche chairs, tignon head wraps, antebellum armoires), culled from the museum’s vast holdings.
Inspired by “13th,” Ava DuVernay’s Emmywinning documentary lm about race, justice and mass incarceration, Undoing Time: Art and Histories of Incarcer-
ation examines the current-day prison system crisis through an art historical perspective. Opening at month's end, the traveling Arizona State University Art Museum exhibit features commissioned pieces by 12 contemporary artists who incorporate archival research into their works, connecting the legacies of the past to the present. e CAC also plays host to the annual Birdfoot Festival, an unconventional citywide celebration of chamber music, March 10-18.
CACNO.ORG
Ah…Paris in the springtime! A trip abroad not in your budget? Pay a visit to the HNOC, where the NotreDame de Paris exhibit allows you to explore the famed French cathedral for free. Continuing through March 19, the augmented reality experience utilizes touch-screen tablets to transport guests to the Middle Ages to see the architectural masterpiece’s foundation being laid; to the early 1800s for the coronation of Napoleon I; to 2019 to witness the massive re that almost destroyed it; to the present day’s ongoing restoration. Afterward, nibble on fromage and baguettes from the courtyard café.
HNOC.ORG
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER'S "UNDOING TIME" EXHIBIT, THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION'S "NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS" AND "GODS, GOATS AND PICKUP TRUCKS" AT THE MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE
Opened in 2021, the MSJE explores 300 years of Jewish life in the Bible Belt through a variety of collections touching on everything from the foundations of Judaism to the Civil Rights Movement. Its rst ne art exhibit, God, Goats and Pickup Trucks, features 23 works by Texas-based artist and educator Maurice Schmidt depicting both religious and rural life. Continuing through May, the collection (ranging from paintings and sketches to prints and sculpture) will return to its permanent home at the San Angelo Museum of Fine Art, except for the exhibit’s centerpiece, “Herdsman Are We, Both We and y Fathers,” which Schmidt has donated to the MSJE.
MSJE.ORG
From its multisensory 4D lm “Beyond All Boundaries” to its immersive “USS Tang Submarine Experience” to its high- ying Boeing Center, there’s a lot to take in at the National WWII Museum. Add to your must-do list the recently opened Expressions of America soundand-light experience. Using state-of-the-art technology, more than 500 archival images projected 90-feet tall and rst-person accounts from wartime journals and letters, the 60-minute after-dark production salutes
those who served on the battle eld as well as on the home front.
With his modernist depictions of everyday Harlem life and African American historical gures, Jacob Lawrence established himself as one of the most widely acclaimed Black artists of the 20th century. Black Orpheus examines the connection between Lawrence and his West African contemporaries, members of the Mbari Artists & Writers Club, whose “Black Orpheus” magazine served as one of the main outlets for African
and African Diaspora writers and artists during the 1960s. In addition to works by artists featured in the publication, the exhibit also features Lawrence’s rarely seen “Nigeria” series.
NOMA.ORG
When the Ogden opened in 2003, it counted close to 2,700 works among its permanent collection. Today it's nearly double that, a re ection not only of the museum’s ever-expanding acquisitions but also the evolution of Southern art—and artists—over the past
two decades. To mark its 20th anniversary milestone, the Ogden is mounting its largest exhibition to date, Knowing Who We Are, celebrating the diversity of the modern South and its cultural complexity, which will eventually encompass the entire museum. e current fth- oor showcase spotlights contemporary artists working in all manner of media, including Cuban-born abstractionist Luis Cruz Azaceta, Vietnamese American ceramicist Christian Dinh and self-described "Cajun Asian" photographer Jade iraswas, among others.
CLOCKWISE ROM LEFT: THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM'S "EXPRESSIONS OF AMERICA," THE OGDEN'S "KNOWING WHO WE ARE" EXHIBIT AND JACOB LAWRENCE'S "MARKET SCENE" AT
OGDENMUSEUM.ORGCarl Bernstein, Maureen Dowd, Eric Holder, Maggie Haberman, Jonathan Martin, April Ryan, Tony Dokoupil, Katy Tur: Co-chair Walter Isaacson’s in uence is evident in the politics-heavy lineup at the New Orleans Book Festival March 9-11. But you’ll likewise nd tomes and panels on local food, drink, music and culture during this “Mardi Gras for the mind” at Tulane University. Bookish types will also gather in the French Quarter March 22-26 for the 37th annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival and tandem LGBTQ+focused Saints & Sinners Festival, which celebrates its 20th anniversary. Along with an always entertaining lineup of author readings and discussions, walking tours and celebrity interviews, new this year is the performance-driven “Last Bohemia Fringe Fest.” bookfest.tulane. edu; tennesseewilliams.net
Say “bull” in the Crescent City, and thoughts rst turn to the o beat San Fermin in Nueva Orleans, in which participants are chased by horn-wearing rollerbladers. But the real deal bucks into town March 17-18, when the Professional Bull Riders “Unleash the Beast” at the Smoothie King Center. More than
35 of the world’s best bull riders vie for points in the race to the 2023 Championship title—and the big belt buckle trophy (and dollars) that come with it. PBR events are more rock concert than rodeo. Expect pyrotechnics, music, showmanship and two nights of “the toughest sport on dirt.” smoothie kingcenter.com
Come March, locals pack away their Carnival costumes and haul out springtime festival wear (i.e., stretchy pants); any good fest features lots of great food. e Tremé Creole Gumbo & Congo Square Rhythms Festival is a prime example. Taking place March 25-26 at Armstrong Park, the free two-for-one a air celebrates both the city’s rich musical heritage as well as its legendary cuisine. A Cajun zydeco fan? Head to the riverfront Crescent Park March 25 for the NOLA Zydeco Fest, where craw sh, boudin and even more gumbo are on the menu. Or pig out and party on at the UNO Lakefront Arena Festival Grounds March 31-April 1 during Hogs for the Cause, where more than 20 bands perform while 90-plus pork-centric BBQ teams battle for top billing. jazzandheritage.org; nolazydecofest.com; hogsfest.org
New Orleans has a bagel history. In the late 1970s there was Long’s deli on Freret and the suburban Bagel Factory; their handmade bagels scratched the itch of my Chicago Jewish girl self. When they closed, the city was basically bagel-bereft, except for the Kosher Cajun Deli, which, like most local stores, carries bagged commercial varieties.
In 2006 Dan Stein opened Stein’s Deli on Magazine Street, where the bagels come in from New York par-baked, to be nal-baked on the daily. That sparked bagel-eating and -making interest, and a few industrious bakers added homemade bagels to their menu (RIP Cake Café). But New Orleans still was not a bagel town… until now. Suddenly handmade bagels are everywhere
Along the La tte Greenway (a quick bike ride from the French Quarter), chef Breanne Kostyk and partner Jeff Hinson’s recently opened shop is dedicated to hand-shaped, boiled and baked bagels. The daily selection ranges from Pumpernickel Everything to Za’atar, Rosemary Salt and more, with a few weekend specials. This is the only place to nd oblong, slightly honeysweet, sesame-covered Jerusalem bagels (weekends) perfect for dragging through tangy-tart labne (yogurt dip). The broad
menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced “tartines” includes savory and sweet topping combinations, a slew of avored cream cheeses, butters, white sh salad and vegetarian spreads. ourmoonbagels.com
After years of selling bagels at pop-ups and farmers’ markets, chef Kate Heller opened a shop in the hip, food-centric area near Broad and Esplanade, not far from the Fairgrounds. Big, airy bagels (plain, sesame or everything) come as is; dressed with
LEFT:
BAGELS’ “NEW MOON” TARTINE; OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A BAYOU BAGEL WITH SCALLION CREAM CHEESE FROM THE RABBIT’S FOOT, LA BOULANGERIE’S “SALMON BAGEL” AND A GRACIOUS BAKERY BAGEL SAMPLER
house-whipped cream cheese and smoked salmon; or there’s an open-faced veg bagel topped with avocado, shaved carrots, cilantro, dill and chili crunch. leosbread.com
Chef Chaya Conrad and crew throw a Fridays-only bagel bash with lox, bagels, cream cheese and the “ xins’.” Their list of bagel avors includes standards as well as a cheesy Asiago bagel that serves as the smart choice for a “Classic” with bacon, eggs and cheese. bywaterbakery.com
Bagel guy Brad Gordon rolls out four or so bagel avors found in local grocery stores and specialty markets around the city. Buy them pre-packaged, or on the menu at The Rabbit’s Foot on Prytania Street, where Bayou Bagels are the foundation for
egg or smoked salmon-andgarnishes breakfast sandwiches. bayoubagel.com; rabbitsfoot nola.com
Chef-owners Casey Mackintosh and Tara Mikhail make “New York-style” bagels with a dough that’s sweetened by Louisiana’s Steen’s Cane Syrup. Open Thursday through Sunday on walkable/shoppable Freret Street, there are 10 straightforward bagel varieties and some special avors, including Egg, Sourdough and Chocolate Chip. Bagel breakfast sandwiches, both vegetarian and meaty, are available, as are several avors of cream cheeses, including strawberry. humblebagel.com
Chef Megan Roen Forman and husband Jay run three easy-toaccess locations in the Garden
District, Uptown and Mid-City, where homemade bagels are the choice base for breakfast or lunch. There is a very popular lemon-caper cream cheese to keep it simple or, at lunch, order a “Black Forest Ham” (with pecan-cheddar spread, sliced apples and pepper jelly) on a sesame bagel. graciousbakery.com
An Uptown institution, La Boulangerie’s massive case and basket wall is lled with many of pastry chef Maggie Scales’ baked goods, including bagels. Here, the “Salmon Bagel” is distinctly made with a hand-formed bagel, a generous spread of cream cheese, aked bits of smoked salmon let, tomatoes, pickled red onions and capers. The breakfast sausage, spicy baked egg and cheddar is also very bagel friendly.
laboulangerienola.com
A build-your-own charcuterie platter from Gris-Gris to Go Go (p. 22). As of press time, the following listings were accurate but subject to change; call ahead to verify hours.
Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (Th-Su), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com
International. This tropicalminded space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (fried and grilled plantains topped with pulled pork). Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L (Tu-Su). 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6; cafecarmo.com
Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks.
B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com
Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930
Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com
Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly). 535
Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com
American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up
truffle fries, a wide variety of small plates and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervinewine.com
French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay, tuna niçoise and a côte de boeuf for two with black garlic bordelaise. B (daily), L (M-F) D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 3, D5; couvant.com
Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com
EMERIL’S
Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com
GIANNA
Italian. The focus here is on homey, rustic Italian cuisine. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb-and-mushroom lasagna, veal saltimbocca with pasta bordelaise; finish with a gelato and biscotti. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com
GRAND ISLE
Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com
HERBSAINT
French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com
Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, the meatballs incorporate beef and pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M, W-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com
LÜKE
International. A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. Creole melds with classic French bistro fare (shrimp bisque, moules et frites) and fresh Louisiana seafood. Great happy hour. L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4; lukeneworleans.com
MAYPOP
Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com
MERIL
International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril
MISS RIVER
Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and clay pot
dirty rice with duck. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com
PÊCHE
Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com
Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com
Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com
Seafood This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West Coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com
Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; stjamescheese.com
Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil
and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame dumplings to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com
TSUNAMI
Sushi. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com
French Quarter
ANTOINE’S
Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L (M, Th-F), D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com
ARNAUD’S
Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnaudsrestaurant.com
BAYONA
Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com
BIJOU
International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here. Kick off with fried goat cheese and tomato jam before moving on an elegant braised lamb or
meatless curried cauliflower. Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (M, W-Sa). 1014 N Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com
BOURBON HOUSE
Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com
Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (Th-M). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennansneworleans.com
Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com
Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com
Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com
COURT OF TWO SISTERS
Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant,
which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com
Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the pretzel with beer cheese, German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze. L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com
Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinnnola.com; dianxinonconti.com
Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Think a sharable Chateaubriand or a 6-ounce filet with flash-fried oysters and béarnaise. Great Irish whiskey selection. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannanssteak house.com
Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com
Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St.,
504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com
Coffee. French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open daily. 217 Chartres St., 504.605.2899. Map 3, F4; 650 Poydras St., 504. 800.8090. Map 3, D5; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115, Map 3, 7; 2917 Magazine St., 504.399.9890. Map 1, D4; frenchtruckcoffee.com
Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com
GW FINS
Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com
IRENE’S CUISINE
Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com
Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. D (W-Su); Br (Su). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com
French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is
both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com
KILLER POBOYS
Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com
LATITUDE 29
Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum”
Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com
MAMOU
French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red beans cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com
MR. B’S BISTRO
Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com
NAPOLEON HOUSE
Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St.,
504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com
PALACE CAFÉ
Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. L (W-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch (SaSu). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com
PALM & PINE
Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s hot sausage carimañolas and duck tamales or dig into closer-tohome flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com
Louisiana. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegantyet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (W-Su). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com
SAINT JOHN
Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com
STANLEY
Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings.
B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com
SYLVAIN
Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub near Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com
TABLEAU
Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. D (W-Su); Br (F-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com
THAIHEY NOLA
Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com
TUJAGUE’S
Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com
Contemporary. Chef Marcus Woodham works closely with local farmers to keep his menu fresh and seasonal. Cheese and charcuterie boards give way to gorgeous house-made pastas and grilled Gulf fish. D (M-Sa). 1320 Magazine St., 504.582.9738. Map 1, D4; thebowernola.com
Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole
principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com
French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (M-Sa). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com
FAT BOY PANTRY
Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb bellyand-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514; fatboypantry.com
GRIS-GRIS
Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com
JACK ROSE
Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the tony Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think mushroom pozole and pappardelle with lamb bacon. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com
SAN LORENZO
Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Great wine list. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com
TURKEY AND THE WOLF
Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com
ALMA
Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3;eatalmanola.com
BACCHANAL
Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com
BYWATER
AMERICAN BISTRO
American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with smoked-corn purée, roasted fish with coconutcelrey root puree; don’t skip the chocolate ganache. D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com
THE COUNTRY CLUB
Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this longpopular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese) or full-on entrees, such as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com
American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this low-key neighborhood spot. Two words to remember: praline
bacon. B, L (Th-Tu). 601 Gallier St. 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com
THE ELYSIAN BAR
Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. Br, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com
N7
French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Escargot, steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com
PALADAR 511
Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com
ADDIS NOLA
African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. D (W-M). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com
BLUE OAK BBQ
Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them.
L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com
Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and
daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net
PARKWAY BAKERY
Louisiana The menu here is long but simple: po’boys, po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com
Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. L (W-F), D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; ralphsonthepark.com
TOUPS’ MEATERY
Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com
ZASU
Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, tuna crudo, salmon with caramelized sauerkraut and dill spaetzle. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com
UPTOWN AVO
Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as gnocchi with pork ragu and veal porterhouse with marsala jus. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com
THE CHLOE
Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd
Pulsinelli turns out steller dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com
COSTERA
Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (patatas bravas, beef shank-and-potato bombas), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com
DAKAR NOLA
African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com
LA BOULANGERIE
Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com
LA PETITE GROCERY
French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com
LILETTE
French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com
MISTER MAO
Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (ThM); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com
SABA
Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com
SAFFRON NOLA
Indian. Elevated Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and the oyster bed roast. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com
WISHING TOWN
BAKERY & CAFÉ
Chinese. Hong Kong-style dumplings and super-cool baked goods are on tap here. Order from the long list of dumplings, noodles, salads and soups. L, D (daily). 802 Nashville Ave., 504.533.9166; wishingtown.com
A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY
The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; agallery.com
ALEX BEARD STUDIO
This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s
late Princess Margaret. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; alexbeardstudio.com
One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird and Woodrow Nash, 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com
Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com
One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com
Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; ashleylongshore.com
The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com
CALLAN CONTEMPORARY
Works by modern-day American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6; callancontemporary.com
CRAIG TRACY GALLERY
The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com
FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY
Award-winning photographer
Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 440 Julia St., 504.547.5931. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com
JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY
Home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6; jonathanferraragallery.com
KEIL’S ANTIQUES
Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com
LEMIEUX GALLERIES
Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; lemieuxgalleries.com
LEROY’S PLACE
A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture.
922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com
M.S. RAU ANTIQUES
This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com
MARTIN LAWRENCE
GALLERIES
This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limited-edition graphics by such famed artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol and Erté, among others. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; martinlawrence.com
MICHALOPOULOS
The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com
MODERNIST CUISINE
GALLERY
Photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cuttingedge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4; modernistcuisinegallery.com
MOSS ANTIQUES
Fine art objects, jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories fill this gallery. The merchandise comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; mossantiques.com
MYTH GALLERY
Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded creations will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4; myth-gallery.com
RODRIGUE STUDIO
Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com
STELLA JONES GALLERY
New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for African American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave. #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4; stellajonesgallery.com
TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY
Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com
VINTAGE 329
A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com
WINDSOR FINE ART
This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com
WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES
Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; wirthmoreantiques.com
BALDWIN & CO.
In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com
Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks.com
For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com
There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com
For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4
Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com
A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous retro fashions and beautiful costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4;centurygirlvintage.com
DARK GARDEN
An offshoot of the acclaimed San Francisco corsetry and couture shop famed for its customized corsets and outof-the-norm bridal wear. 3528 Magazine St., 504.417.9751. Map 1, D4; darkgarden.com/nola
504.462.2731
Skip the tacky Bourbon Street T-shirts. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com
Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com
UNITED
A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items. From everyday casual wear to elegant designer wear, you’ll find it here at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; 3306 Magazine St., 504.354.2777. Map 1, D4; shopual.com
VICE & GRAFT
The inventory at this small shop is always new, thanks to a rotating collection of bygone finds by its owner. There’s a little something for everyone who delights in collectible vintage. 927 Royal St., 505.605.0500. Map 3, H4; viceandgraft.com
Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal,
is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; weinsteinsinc.com
BUNGALOWS
This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items.
610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com
DARK MATTER
Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified birds and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5
FLEURTY GIRL
These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net
FOREVER NEW ORLEANS
These shops overflow with cool keepsakes, from NOLA-themed T-shirts and tea towels to pottery and puzzles, along with a selection of local books. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; shopforeverneworleans.com
A magical emporium offering everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5; hexwitch.com
NOLA BOARDS
Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese
boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 1, D4; nolaboards.com
This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com
This witchcraft shop offers psychic readings, along with candles, brooms and the city’s largest selection of tarot decks. Psychics are also available for private events. 1205 Decatur St., 504.322.7440. Map 3, I4; omensalem.com
This designer-owned boutique features handcrafted jewelry and fairtrade clothing, along with a curated collection of home accessories, bath and body goods and gift items. 831 Chartres St., 504.5070644. Map 3, H5; plbbcollective. myshopify.com
BELLA UMBRELLA
Cloudy skies? This shop helps keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrellas. 2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4; bellaumbrella.com
You’re guaranteed to turn heads when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4; fleurdeparis.shop
The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide.
709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com
JON FLUEVOG
“Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com
SHOE BE DO
Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com
Jewelry
ART & EYES
The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com
MIGNON FAGET
Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com
PORTER LYONS
Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com
WELLINGTON & CO.
This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com
CANAL PLACE
Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores
include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Saks Fifth Avenue. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com
A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores. 301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com
RIVERWALK OUTLETS
Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Karl Lagerfeld Paris, Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com
ARMSTRONG PARK
Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2
AUDUBON PARK
Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org
AUDUBON ZOO
Inhabited by more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org
CITY PARK
Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com
CRESCENT PARK
Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescentparknola.org
A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9 am-4:30 pm; F-Su, 10 am-5:30 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org
FRENCH MARKET
America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org
The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of great dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/ harrahs-new-orleans
Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com
JACKSON SQUARE
The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5
Part Crescent City cultural museum/part Pee-wee’s Playhouse, this innovative space takes visitors on a vibrant visual journey through local life, as envisioned by 20 area artists. Open Th-M. 2832 Royal St. Map 1, E3; jamnola.com
It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-5:30 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; mardigrasworld.com
This pocket-sized park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Allen Toussaint, Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offer cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.
Map 3, F4
Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouiscathedral.org
This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com
Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com
Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield,
the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com
Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org
Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com
Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360-degree observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com
Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org
This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org
This offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org
The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org
This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org
The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org
Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org
This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org
This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open Th-
Su, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org
NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM
The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org
NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART
One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org
NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM
This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org
OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART
This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org
SAZERAC HOUSE
Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open Tu-Su, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com
AIRBOAT ADVENTURES
Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee.
504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com
CITY SIGHTSEEING
This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com
Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and twohour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com
DRINK
Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com
This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com
Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com
Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com
STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ
The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com
ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75
Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com
AVENUE PUB
The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3; theavenuepub.com
BAR MARILOU
With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com
CAROUSEL BAR
Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel . 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com
CHANDELIER BAR
The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans
HOT TIN
Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this chic space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St.
Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com
LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP
This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com
MARTINE’S LOUNGE
Tucked in a strip mall in nearby Metairie, this no-frills, no-attitude cocktail/wine bar is an ideal alternative to Bourbon Street’s hustle and jive. Great daily happy hour. 2347 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 504.831.8637.
Map 1, C2
PAL’S LOUNGE
Friendly bartenders, strong pours and rotating food pop-ups make this casual, Mid-City neighborhood spot a local favorite. 949 Rendon St., 504.488.7257. Map 1, D2.
PAT O’BRIEN’S
Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com
THE PEACOCK ROOM
It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails. 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, E5; hotelfontenot.com
THE PENTHOUSE CLUB
This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com
PEYCHAUD’S
Classic cocktails—Sazeracs, French 75s, Ramos Gin Fizzes— in a classic French Quarter setting, where the inventor of Peychaud’s bitters once lived.
727 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; maisondeville.com
SAZERAC BAR
Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com
THE WILL & THE WAY
Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this not-so-hidden gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated, easy-to-digest bar bites menu. 719 Toulouse St. thewillandthe way.com
BLUE NILE
This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com
D.B.A.
A Frenchmen Street must-do featuring 20 draught beers, fine tequilas and single malts and live music nightly. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; dbaneworleans.com
THE FILLMORE
Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com
HOUSE OF BLUES
The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com
THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE
This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent
is featured; retro burlesque on Fridays. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com
MAPLE LEAF
A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com
MUSIC BOX VILLAGE
Make your own kind of music at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-akind open-air venue also hosts live performances. 4557 N. Rampart St., Map 1, E3; musicboxvillage.com
PRESERVATION HALL
Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com
SNUG HARBOR
An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com
THE SPOTTED CAT
This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com
The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com
This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former performance space in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting headliners. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com
NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH
AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4
AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5
AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4
AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4
BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4
LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3
BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5
BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5
BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5
BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4
CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6
CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4
CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3
CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7
DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3
CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4
DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3
DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5
DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4
EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5
EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7
FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4
FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6
FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5
HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4
HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8
HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6
HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6
HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4
HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7
HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7
SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4
FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5
HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3
HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3
HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5
HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4
HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3
HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5
HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6
LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4
MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4
PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5
PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5
SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4
SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3
HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4
HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7
HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3
IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4
IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5
JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4
JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2
LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5
LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5
LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6
LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4
LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6
MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5
MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3
MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4
MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7
ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4
90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4
NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4
OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3
OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7
OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4
OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6
PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5
PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4
PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6
PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4
QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5
RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6
PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4
RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6
RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4
RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3
RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5
RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4
RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4
RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4
SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5
ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5
SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7
VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4
WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4
WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5
WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5
WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6
WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4
WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4
Art in the Open Detail of sculptor Isidore Konti’s circa-1919 Gumbel Memorial Fountain in Audubon Park (p. 32), one of many public artworks populating the city’s numerous greenspaces.