HANDS-ON HISTORY
Food Festivals
Pride Events
NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023 A GUIDE TO LOCAL BLACK LANDMARKS
Audubon Aquarium Reopens
A New Orleans Tradition Available for private parties 622 Canal • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon www.cafebeignet.com
ART & EY&S LOCAL EYECONS!! 3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494 ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com INDY EYEWEAR… like nowhere else
Jan Ramsey, super diva of Off Beat magazine, in Robert LaRoche
Dr. Michael White, King of the clarinet, in Jean Philippe
Joly
DISCOVER HOW THE WAR THAT CHANGED THE WORLD CHANGED THE PEOPLE WHO LIVED IT.
SOUND + LIGHT EXPERIENCE USE THE QR CODE FOR FAST ACCESS OR VISIT EXPRESSIONSOFAMERICA.ORG
SCAN THE QR CODE TO BUY YOUR TICKETS OR PURCHASE ONLINE AT NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG
Picasso
Mr. Brainwash
Jose Basso
Rembrandt
Out & About
Incredible edibles, monthlong Pride parties and an Essence Festival salute to hip-hop.
Hot Dish
A side-by-side barbecue joint and brewery, plus a tasty new chapter in the Chase family story.
(FROM TOP) ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©NEW ORLEANS WINE AND FOOD EXPERIENCE; ©CHAPTER IV 4
17 16 10
ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 06 Calendar 08 20 Things We Love 15 Maps 37 Parting Shot 40 THE GUIDE Dining 19 Shopping 24 Attractions 30 Entertainment 32 Nightlife 36
A tour of NOLA Black history landmarks.
C ONTENTS
ON
JUNE 2023
Sheleen Jones-Adenle’s brass band sculpture at the entrance to Armstrong Park. ©JEJIM/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
THE COVER
VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT
Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org.
WHAT’S HAPPENING THIS MONTH
CREOLE TOMATO FESTIVAL
The 37th annual French Market’s Creole Tomato Festival, June 10 and 11, will host two days of live music on three stages, the Southern Food & Beverage Museum Cooking Demonstration Stage and a variety of food booths featuring Creole Tomato dishes!
With music stages at the French Market Flea Market, along Dutch Alley and indoors at the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park, the lineup will feature celebrated fan favorites including Sunpie & the LA Sunspots, the Lost Bayou Ramblers and
Delfeayo Marsalis & the Uptown Orchestra.
The festival will host ve food vendors offering up a delicious assortment Creole tomato dishes. This year’s food vendors will each prepare a signature dish highlighting the Creole tomato. Offerings include Café Dauphine’s Fried Green Creole Tomatoes with Shrimp Remoulade, DeSwine Intervention’s Grilled Avacado with Creole Tomato & Mango Salsa and Lillie’s Cajun Kitchen’s Creole Tomato Jambalaya. The Creole Tomato Festival is free and open to the public.
SPECIAL
ADVERTISING
DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans
Prior to moving to New Orleans, I was more ction fan than history bu . But with 300-plus years of backstory to leaf through, it’s hard not to get wrapped up in the city’s past and how it informs the present. As novelist William Faulkner—who, in 1925, lived at 624 Pirate’s Alley (where today you’ll nd a bookstore named after him)—wrote, “ e past isn’t dead. It’s not even past.” at certainly rings true here
What I nd most intriguing about New Orleans history is how tangible it is. From the French Quarter’s Spanish-in uenced architecture to the mossdraped oaks in City Park, at almost every turn there are portals to the past, oft-overlooked landmarks one can physically lay hands on.
To that end, and in commemoration of Juneteenth, for this issue we turned to former WhereTraveler editorial intern Terri Simon, now associate editor of the publications department at the Historic New Orleans Collection (a must-visit), for insight into the city’s Black history. Barely scratching the surface, Simon spotlights both highs (one of the nation’s oldest Black neighborhoods and rst Black Catholic churches) and lows (slave auctions and Jim Crow laws) in the city’s multilayered makeup. e past may not always be pretty, but it’s important to embrace and learn from.
So, slow your stroll and linger a while in front of those historical markers scattered all over town. You’ll be “bu ed up” in no time.
201 R OYAL S TREET ~ F RENCH Q UARTER ~ N EW O RLEANS 504-523-2078 ~ www.mrbsbistro.com
Brennan EDITOR’S NOTE 2023 JUNE
Cindy
THE 6 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023
PUBLISHER
Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com
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Doug Brantley
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Hadley Kincaid
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Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Terri Simon
ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com
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7 NEW ORLEANS
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CALENDAR
WHAT’S HAPPENING THE LINEUP
AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM
BEGINNING JUNE 8
Consistently ranked among the nation’s top 10 aquariums, the Audubon Aquarium will likely see its rating increase even more when it reopens this month, following a state-of-the-art, $41-million redesign. Along with a soaring new entrance and lobby, 60-foot-long shark and stingray touch pool and behindthe-scenes view of its 450,000-gallon Gulf of Mexico exhibit, visitors will nd 15 di erent species of free- ying birds in the Amazon Rainforest Gallery and inhabitants of Audubon’s former Insectarium and Butter y Garden, which have been relocated to the reimagined riverfront facility. audubonnatureinstitute.org
GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH
The Walt Disney Studios and World War II All Month
The U.S. military isn’t some Mickey Mouse operation. But when wartime duty called, Disney deployed its artistic troops, producing everything from public-ser-
vice campaigns to training lms. This new National WWII Museum exhibit features more than 500 related images and artifacts. nationalww2museum.org
To Kill a Mockingbird
Through June 4
Aaron Sorkin’s Tony-winning Broadway adaptation of Harper Lee’s Pulitzer-winning novel continues at the Saenger Theatre with Richard (“John Boy”) Thomas in the role of Atticus Finch. saengernola.com
Presence and Precarity: A Louisiana Fairytale
June 4, 11 & 18
Never-before-seen Preservation Hall archival images are coupled with contempory works in this free
exhibit exploring Black music and culture at the legendary Hall. preshall foundation.org/archives
Duran Duran
June 7
The recent Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductees pull into town on their “Past Future” tour, joined by Nile Rogers & Chic and the British pop group Bastille. smoothiekingcenter.com
Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Festival
June 9-10, 16-17 & 23-24
Cajun country comes to town with this free concert series spotlighting the region’s top Cajun and zydeco acts. Dust off your dancing shoes and two-step it to
the Wein Jazz & Heritage Center. jazzandheritage.org
World Naked Bike Ride
June 10
Aimed at increasing body positivity and cyclist safety awareness, this hard-notto-stare, two-wheel affair through the French Quarter encourages riders to go “as bare as you dare.” Things get rolling around 5 pm; consider yourself warned.
Neal Brennan
June 16
The Emmy-nominated “Chappelle’s Show” cocreator and all-around funny guy (“The Champs,” “Inside Amy Schumer,” “The Daily Show”) brings his new stand-up act to the Joy. thejoytheater.com
(CLOCKWISE
©RUSTY COSTANZA/DIGITAL ROUX PHTOGRAPHY; ©JULIETA CERVANTES
FROM TOP LEFT) COURTESY OF KENT RAMSEY/©DISNEY;
7
“MOCKINGBIRD”
“DISNEY AND WWII”
AUDUBON AQUARIUM
THE
8 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023
WHERE! SAVE $3 Hop-On Hop-Off Garden District Central Business District French Quarter Super Dome Louis Armstrong Park St. Louis Cathedral St. Louis No. 1 Cemetery Visitor Center LOUISIANA AVE. ST. CHARLES AVE. POYDRAS RAMPART ST. CANAL ST. JACKSON AVE. DECATU BASIN ST. Harrah’s CASINO Arts District 9:45am 1st Dep. St. Charles Avenue Departures: 11, 12, 1, 2, 3pm Garden District WALKING TOUR Garden District Magazine St. @ Washington Ave. GDWT Only $25 Magazine Street Boutique Shopping Local Eateries World War II Museum The National 9:30am 1st Dep. Basin St. Station P 501 Basin Street Open 8:30am 5:30pm Public Parking Convenient Affordable 10hr - 24hr Canal Street Sheraton 9:35am 1st Dep. ch Tremé Marigny/Bywater Frenchmen St. French Market Departures: 11, 12, 1, 2, 3pm FQWT Only $25 French Quarter Jackson Square Ticket Office & Sightseeing Shop 700 Decautur St. Open 9am - 5pm WALKING TOUR 19 18 17 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 16 Jackson Square 9:30am 1st Dep. Hop-On Hop-Off Buy Tickets Online: CitySightseeingNewOrleans.com 800.362.1811 - 504.207.6200 ST. LOUIS CEMETERY NO. 1 OFFICIAL TOUR Frequent Tour Departures | 9:00am to 3:45pm Space is Limited | Reserve Online 504-777-3027 I 800-368-1789 Journey through the City of the Dead www.CemeteryTourNewOrleans.com Save with PromoCode: Est1789
WHERE NOW
Black Powered
Black history sites to seek out in celebration of Juneteenth TERRI SIMON
Juneteenth (June 19) is not only a commemoration of the day in 1865 when Union Major General Gordon Granger issued the decree that o cially ended slavery in Texas. It is also a celebration of Black history
NEW ORLEANS
and culture—and of Black America’s history of resistance and resilience.
at history is especially strong in New Orleans. Enslaved Black laborers cleared swamps, dug portages and built the levees that made establishing the colonial city possible. Black craftsmen, enslaved and free, created the bricks and wrought iron that de ne the French Quarter. Without
the knowledge about plants like rice and okra brought by enslaved Africans or the ingenuity and skill of Black cooks, Creole and Cajun food couldn’t exist. And, of course, without Black musical traditions, there’d be no zydeco, funk or jazz.
e following are just a few of the many local landmarks that highlight the long, rich history of Black people in New Orleans.
THE CLAIBORNE AVENUE I-10 OVERPASS
LOUIS ARMSTRONG PARK
Stroll through this picturesque greenspace just outside of the French Quarter, and you’ll see statues honoring jazz greats and Black Masking Indians. Located in Tremé—one of the oldest Black neighborhoods in the U.S.—the park is also home to the Mahalia Jackson eater and Congo Square. During the French and Spanish colonial eras, enslaved people gathered here on Sundays to mingle, dance and hold markets. ey also practiced and maintained African traditions that became the roots of jazz, the Black Masking Indians and second lines.
SAINT AUGUSTINE CATHOLIC CHURCH
When St. Augustine was established in 1841, many churches charged pew fees; in order to sit, worshippers had to buy spaces. Free people of color who couldn’t
access pews at older (and whiter) churches like St. Louis Cathedral jumped at the chance to get a seat at St. Aug. ey also secured pews for enslaved people. White parishioners tried to buy pews as well, but, after an organized campaign to outbid them, Black churchgoers won “ e War of the Pews,” making St. Aug one of the rst Black Catholic churches in the nation. e church still houses its original pews, as well as a pink marble altar and, outside, the Tomb of the Unknown Slave—a monument to enslaved people who died before emancipation.
SLAVE MARKETS
In most of the American South, cities had only one market where enslaved people were bought and sold. New Orleans was di erent; enslaved people were sold across the city, in hotels, at the port, even
in private homes. One of the most famous was the opulent St. Louis Hotel. Today, the site is the Omni Royal Orleans, but you can still see the original arches of the St. Louis on the Chartres Street side of the building. Above them, if you look closely, you’ll see “CHANGE.” ose faded letters are all that’s left of the original signage, advertising the “NEW ORLEANS EXCHANGE” to peddlers of esh. Cater-corner from the hotel is e Original Pierre Maspero’s. Now a restaurant, the original Pierre Maspero’s is where Andrew Jackson met with pirate Jean La tte to plan the Battle of New Orleans. Back then, this site for commerce and meetings was called Pierre Maspero’s Slave Exchange.
OMNI ROYAL ORLEANS, 621 ST. LOUIS ST.; THE ORIGINAL PIERRE MASPERO’S, 440 CHARTRES ST.
ST. LOUIS CEMETERIES
e St. Louis Cemeteries, opened
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: ARMSTRONG PARK, SAINT AUGUSTINE CATHOLIC CHURCH AND THE ORIGINAL PIERRE MASPERO'S SLAVE EXCHANGE MARKER; OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A LEAH CHASE-DEDICATED UTILITY BOX OUTSIDE DOOKY CHASE'S RESTAURANT, THE MORIAL AND LAVEAU-GLAPION FAMILY TOMBS AT ST. LOUIS CEMETERY NO. 1 AND KERMIT'S TREMÉ MOTHER-IN-LAW LOUNGE ON CLAIBORNE
701 N. RAMPART ST.
1210 GOV. NICHOLLS ST., STAUGCHURCH.ORG
(CLOCKWISE
BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM (2); ©DOUG
©REBECCA
Where Now
FROM LEFT) ©PAUL
BRANTLEY; (OPENING SPREAD)
TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM
12 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023
in 1789, 1823 and 1854, boast the tombs of some of the most prominent gures in New Orleans history. St. Louis Cemetery No. 2 is especially notable for the in uential Black Louisianians buried there, including Oscar Dunn, who in 1871 became the country’s rst Black state governor. Unfortunately, No. 2 is closed to the public. But St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, the city’s oldest surviving cemetery, is open. Its aboveground tombs include the graves of activist Homer Plessy, the plainti in the famous court case that established the legal doctrine of separate but equal. Ernest “Dutch” Morial, the Crescent City’s rst Black mayor, was also originally buried there (his remains were later moved to a new Morial family tomb at St. Louis No. 3). e most visited tomb is the Glapion family’s, thought to be the grave of voodoo priestess Marie Laveau.
LOUIS CEMETERY NO. 3, 3421 ESPLANADE AVE., NOLACATHOLICCEMETERIES.ORG
CLAIBORNE AVENUE
One of New Orleans’ largest thoroughfares, Claiborne runs the length of the city. Today, its most distinct feature is the elevated interstate directly above it. But for most of its history, the formerly oak-lined stretch between St. Bernard and Tulane avenues was the heart of a vibrant Black community, where citizens went to work, shop, eat and socialize. It was also a center of Black Carnival celebrations. The construction of the I-10 in 1969 cut the neighborhood in two and was the catalyst for the decline of what had been a thriving community. Still, there are some surviving landmarks, including Circle Food Store, incorporated in 1938 as the city’s first Black-owned full-service grocery.
CIRCLE FOOD STORE, 1522 ST.
DOOKY CHASE'S RESTAURANT
Dooky Chase’s has been in Tremé since 1941. It’s named for one of its original owners, but it was Dooky Chase’s son, Edgar Dooky Chase Jr., and his wife, Leah, who made what was originally a sandwich shop into one of the only upscale dining establishments for Black customers during Jim Crow. It became a center of the civil rights movement, with activists planning sit-ins and protests over Creole classics like shrimp Clemenceau. Leah Chase, known as “the Queen of Creole cuisine,” was also an avid collector of Black art, which lines the dining rooms that double as a museum. Her grandson now runs the restaurant, as well as the new Chapter IV (see p. 17), which serves fresh takes on Creole cuisine and is also adorned with Black art.
DOOKY CHASE'S, 2301 ORLEANS AVE., DOOKYCHASERESTAURANTS.COM; CHAPTER IV, 1301 GRAVIER ST., CHAPTERIVNOLA.COM
ST. LOUIS CEMETERY NO. 1, 425 BASIN ST., CEMETERYTOURNEWORLEANS.COM; ST.
BERNARD AVE.
13 (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©JUSTEN WILLIAMS/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM
PYTHIAN TEMPLE
Opened in 1909, this structure is one of Black New Orleans’ most important—and least known— landmarks. Built by the Colored Order of the Knights of the Pythias, a Black fraternal organization, it was designed and constructed by Black architects and craftsmen and housed Black-owned businesses.
e Pythian’s theater hosted Black Mardi Gras balls and vaudeville shows; jazz artists like Sidney Bechet played at the rooftop garden. It was also a gathering place for Black scholars and activists, including Booker T. Washington. e Knights lost the building during the Depression, but it remained important for the Black community; until the opening of Charity Hospital in 1939, the Pythian served as a temporary hospital for African Americans. It now houses apartments.
234 LOYOLA AVE.
FREEMAN’S SLAVE PEN
Today, the foot of Esplanade Avenue is a bustling, oak-draped intersection between the French Quarter and Marigny neighborhoods. ose same trees lined the street in the 1840s, but at that time their branches shaded a notorious slave pen owned by the ironically named merchant eophilus Freeman. Solomon Northup, a Black man who had been born free in New York, then kidnapped and sold into slavery by Freeman’s business party, arrived at that pen in 1841. Northup recounted his years in bondage in his 1853 memoir, “Twelve Years a Slave," which would be adapted to an Oscar-winning movie in 2013.
CHARTRES ST. AT ESPLANADE AVE.
WHITNEY PLANTATION
Up for a day trip? Whitney Plantation, less than an hour from New
Orleans in St. John the Baptist Parish, opened to the public as a museum in 2014. A decade later, it has become known as one of the best Black history museums not only in the region, but in the entire country. e Whitney does not focus on the history of the property’s slave owners and traders. Instead, it centers the stories of the enslaved people who lived there and educates visitors about the history of slavery in Louisiana, the South and beyond. e museum sits on 200 acres and includes meticulously restored 18th- and 19th-century structures, including a French Creole-style big house and wood cabins where enslaved people lived. Of special note is the Antioch Baptist Church, built in 1868 by formerly enslaved people, which was moved from its original location across the river in 1999.
5099 HWY. 18, EDGARD, LA., 225.265.3300
14 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023 (CLOCKWISE FROM
©JUSTEN WILLIAMS/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©WHITNEY PLANTATION; ©WILLIAM A. MORGAN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
TOP LEFT)
Where Now
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BRANDON ODUMS' MURAL OF LOCAL CIVIL RIGHTS LAWYER A.P. TUREAUD AND WIFE LUCILLE INSIDE THE PYTHIAN, A SLAVE CABIN AT WHITNEY PLANTATION AND THE NORTHUP-FREEMAN'S PEN MARKER ON ESPLANADE
20 ings We Love About New Orleans
with broth poured tableside, at King Brasserie.
12 Scoping out the full six miles of retailpacked Magazine Street.
13 “Icy treats for a world on re”—fresh from the front porch at Chance in Hell Snoballs (@chanceinhell_snoballs).
14 Letting little hands take the reins on mule-drawn French Quarter carriage rides.
15 Vue Orleans’ 360-degree views.
16 Photographer Steve Rapport’s retro rock and recent jazz works at his (Mostly) Rock ’n’ Roll Gallery.
17 e Chandelier Bar’s decadent blue crab roll and tru e fries.
18 Sneaking peeks into cloistered French Quarter courtyards.
19 Sassy Magick’s Spirit Summoner cocktail-conjuring Ouija boards.
20
Chillin’ with the fam at the Audubon Zoo’s wet and wild Cool Zoo splash park.
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STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE;
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©JEFF
©STEVE
1Taking a Vieux Carré cocktail for a spin at the revolving Carousel Bar.
2Artists displaying their works along Jackson Square’s iron fence, as they have since the 1950s.
3Eating while getting educated at Sengalborn chef Serigne Mbay’s Dakar NOLA.
4 e book-spine portrait of author James Baldwin at Baldwin & Co.
5Tooling around town on electric Blue Bike rentals.
6Vintage bling from Vintage 329.
7Opening the gate at N7 and being transported to the south of France.
8 e “love locks” fence along the riverfront (between Toulouse and St. Peter streets).
9Louis Armstrong’s rst cornet, on view at New Orleans Jazz Museum.
10 Touring the Garden District for just $1.25 aboard the St. Charles streetcar.
11 Loaded lobster bouillabaisse,
1 5 16 11 20 Where Now
FOOD FETES
Food lover? You’re in the right place at the right time. e New Orleans Wine and Food Experience (nowfe.com) takes over the town June 7-11, with its top-tier Vinola tasting event at the Orpheum on ursday, pink-themed Tournament of the Rosés at the Fillmore on Friday and bellybusting Grand Tasting Saturday at Generations Hall. Save room for Sunday’s Burlesque Bubbly & Brunch at the Omni Royal Orleans. Bloody Marys are the order June 10-11 during the Creole Tomato Festival at the French Market (frenchmarket.org), along with tomato-based dishes by local chefs and fresh-picked produce. More, more, more? Dig into special multicourse menus at eateries citywide during Restaurant Week New Orleans (neworleans.com/ restaurantweek) June 19-25.
PRIDE EVENTS
e city wears its pride on the outside this month through a variety of LGBTQ+-focused events. Queer comedic talents from around the nation pull into town June 1-4 for the LGBTLOL Comedy Fest (lgbtlol.com), followed by community members from around the South June 9-11 for Pride New Orleans (neworleanspride.org).
OUT & ABOUT
What’s new, now and not to be missed
Packed with parties and happenings at bars and venues citywide, the nonstop weekend kicks o with a daylong block party and parade through the French Quarter. e 50th anniversary of the horri c and historic UpStairs Lounge Fire is commemorated June 23-25 (lgbtarchiveslouisiana.org), while Pride at the Broadside (broadsidenola. com) caps things o June 25 with LGBTQ+-fronted bands, backed by local food and arts vendors.
ESSENCE FESTIVAL OF CULTURE
Going by the numbers, 2023’s Essence Fest promises to be one for the books. e 29th “party with a purpose” celebrates 50 years of hiphop, with Doug E. Fresh, producer Jermaine Dupri (whose So So Def label marks its 30th anniversary) and many of the genre’s biggest names June 30-July 2 at the Superdome. Ms. Lauryn Hill, whose “ e Miseducation of Lauryn Hill” was released 25 years ago, will also be on hand for a special performance of the ve-time Grammy-winning album, as will Missy Elliott, Ludacris, Megan ee Stallion, Big Daddy Kane, Monica, Gucci Mane and dozens more. It all adds up to one incredible weekend. For a full roster of acts and events, visit essencefestival.com.
16 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023 (FROM TOP) ©BEN HOUDIJK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©NEW ORLEANS WINE AND FOOD EXPERIENCE; ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEAN.COM
Where Now
FROM TOP: MS. LAURYN HILL HEADLINES ESSENCE FEST, THE NEW ORLEANS WINE & FOOD EXPERIENCE AND PRIDE FESTIVITIES
Hot Dish
1DEVIL MOON BBQ
In the South Market District, barbecue smoke perfumes the air of this daytime operation. Pop in for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with meaty-fatty pork cracklings to drag through a cane syrup-mustard sauce. Follow with juicy brisket, fatty or lean (go fatty), tender and toothy pork ribs and homemade chaurice sausage. ere’s a fresh, lightly dressed slaw, and when we dined, divinely creamy pimento cheese grits.
1100 GIROD ST., 504.788.0093 2
BREWERY SAINT X
Also in South Market, this brewery/restaurant/bar is immediately next door to Devil Moon, operating in the evenings and for brunch. Yes, the two restaurants share a big kitchen, and there is some food crossover, but there are notable di erences too. Evidence cool snacks like Smoked Gulf Fish Dip with Fried Saltines or a Mornay sauce-draped Craw sh Bread. Sublime salads—Cobb, Red Cabbage or Caesar—can come as they are
or topped with a protein. As for mains, the sandwiches cover wide ground, from burger to shrimp to smoked eggplant and burrata. And, of course, the house-brewed beers are where it’s at. Not a beer drinker? Fear not, there’s a full bar and plenty of n/a options.
3
CHAPTER IV
In the heart of the Central Business District, chef Dook Chase’s independent restaurant is inspired by his beloved late grandmother, Leah Chase. A surprisingly large menu offers breakfast, brunch and lunch classics and some contemporary interpretations. Our meal pick is this: Creole Gumbo, Fish & Grits (golden fried catfish with creamy grits and a local specialty, crawfish-and-andouille corn maque choux) and Bread Pudding. But there’s something for everyone here, and the Oysters Benedict (fried oysters, creamed spinach, poached egg and hollandaise on a biscuit) is a serious contender.
17 (FROM TOP) ©RANDY SCHMIDT (2); ©CHAPTER IV
734 LOYOLA AVE., 504.788.0093
1 2 3
1301 GRAVIER ST., 504.766.7851
ree new restaurant openings to chew on LORIN GAUDIN
HASH IT OUT
Duck hash with poached egg and brown butter hollandaise from Palace Café (p. 22). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call to verify hours.
LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.
©RANDY SCHMIDT
THE
GUIDE
OUR FAVORITES
DINING
Central Business/ Warehouse District
BÉSAME
Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (ThSu), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com
CHEMIN À LA MER
Louisiana.French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com
COCHON
Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930
Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com
COMPÈRE LAPIN
Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly). 535
Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com
COPPER VINE
American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001
Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com
COUVANT
French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay,
tuna niçoise and a côte de boeuf for two with black garlic bordelaise. B, L (M-Th), D (TuSa); Br (F-Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 3, D5; couvant. com
THE DAILY BEET
Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this hip café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com
DOMENICA
Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com
EMERIL’S
Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com
GIANNA
Italian. The focus here is on rustic Italian cuisine. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb-and-mushroom lasagna, veal saltimbocca with pasta bordelaise; finish with a gelato and biscotti. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com
GRAND ISLE
Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com
HERBSAINT
French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com
KING BRASSERIE
French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, grilled octopus with sweet potato, Gulf fish with smoked lardon and collard greens: Louisiana ingredients inform French favorites at this Rivera-inspired brasserie. B, L, D (daily). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com
MAYPOP
Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com
MERIL
International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril
MISS RIVER
Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and clay pot dirty rice with duck. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com
PÊCHE
Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L,
D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com
POKE LOA
Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and an array of garnishes. L, D (M-F). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com
RESTAURANT AUGUST
Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com
SEAWORTHY
Seafood. This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West Coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com
ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY
Deli St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has topof-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; L (daily) 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; stjamescheese.com
TRUE FOOD KITCHEN
Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame dumplings to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com
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THE GUIDE Dining
TSUNAMI
Sushi. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com
French Quarter
ANTOINE’S
Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L (M, Th-F), D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com
ARNAUD’S
Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnaudsrestaurant.com
BAYONA
Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com
BIJOU
International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here. Kick off with fried goat cheese and tomato jam before moving on to hanger steak with patatas bravas or meatless curried cauliflower. Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (M, W-Sa). 1014 N Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com
BRENNAN’S
Creole. The legendary establishment continues more
than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (Th-M). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennansneworleans.com
BROUSSARD’S
Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the French Quarter’s premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. The kitchen turns out long-popular classic, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com
CAFÉ BEIGNET
Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com
CAFÉ DU MONDE
Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com
CANE & TABLE
Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com
COURT OF TWO SISTERS
Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com
DIAN XIN
Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinnnola.com; dianxinonconti.com
DORIS METROPOLITAN
Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com
FRENCH TOAST
Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com
GALATOIRE’S
Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com
GW FINS
Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com
IRENE’S CUISINE
Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa) . 529 Bienville St.,
504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com
JEWEL OF THE SOUTH
Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Su), D (W-M). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com
JUSTINE
French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com
KILLER POBOYS
Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com
MAMOU
French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red bean cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parsley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com
MR. B’S BISTRO
Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com
NAPOLEON HOUSE
Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its
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DINING
share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com
PALACE CAFÉ
Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. L (W-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch (SaSu). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com
PALM & PINE
Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s hot sausage carimañolas and duck tamales or dig into closer-tohome flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com
RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION
Louisiana. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegantyet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. D (W-Su). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com
SAINT JOHN
Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com
STANLEY
Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St.,
504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com
SYLVAIN
Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub near Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com
TABLEAU
Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. D (W-Su); Br (Th-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com
THAIHEY NOLA
Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com
TUJAGUE’S
Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com
Garden District/ Lower Garden District
ATCHAFALAYA
Louisiana. Look for the giant cast-iron skillet outside of this homey neighborhood spot and dishes such as free-form blue crab ravioli and crispy duck. Br, D (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; atchafalayarestaurant.com
COMMANDER’S PALACE
Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family
tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com
COQUETTE
French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com
ELIZABETH STREET CAFÉ
Vietnamese. This casual Austin offshoot’s in-house bakery turns out fresh baguettes for an all-day menu of banh mi sandwiches, spring rolls and noodle bowls. Escargot in curry butter? Bring it on. L , D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; elizabethstreetcafe.com
FAT BOY PANTRY
Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb bellyand-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514; fatboypantry.com
GRIS-GRIS
Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com
LENGUA MADRE
Mexican. Chef Ana Castro and team turn out a five-star, five-course tasting menu of reimagined traditional Mexican cuisine. The adventurous fare changes with the seasons. D (W-Su). 145 Constance St., 504.655.1338. Map 1, D3; lenguamadrenola.com
SAN LORENZO
Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Great wine list. L (MF), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com
TURKEY AND THE WOLF
Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com
Marigny/Bywater
ALMA
Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com
BACCHANAL
Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com
THE COUNTRY CLUB
Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this longpopular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese) or full-on entrees, such as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com
N7
French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Escargot, steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange, a lovely wine list and fine service equate
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DINING
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to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com
PALADAR 511
Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com
ST. ROCH MARKET
Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this beautifully restored marketplace features 24 steel columns and numerous food vendors, along with a bar and indoor/outdoor seating. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.267.0388; strochmarket.com
DINING/SHOPPING
Mid-City ADDIS NOLA
African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. D (W-M). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com
ANGELO BROCATO’S
Bakery. This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glasstopped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2; angelobrocatoicecream.com
BLUE OAK BBQ
Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them.
L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com
DOOKY CHASE’S
Creole. One of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the nation. The late “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase’s
legend lives on in classic dishes such as shrimp with lima beans and gumbo z’herbes. L (Tu-F), D (F-Sa). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; dookychaserestaurants.com
FLOUR MOON BAGELS
Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the get here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois St. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com
TOUPS’ MEATERY
Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com
ZASU
Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, hamachi crudo, salmon with caramelized sauerkraut and dill spaetzle. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com
UPTOWN
COSTERA
Spanish This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (patatas bravas, beef shank-and-potato bombas), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com
DAKAR NOLA
African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (Th-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com
LA BOULANGERIE
Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet
artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com
LA PETITE GROCERY
French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com
MISTER MAO
Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (ThM); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com
PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY
Southern. Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot near Audubon Park. Begin with the crab dip and finish with a marshmallowtopped brownie. L, D (Tu-Su). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; nolapicnic.com
SABA
Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com
WISHING TOWN BAKERY & CAFÉ
Chinese. Hong Kong-style dumplings and super-cool baked goods are on tap here. Order from the long list of dumplings, noodles, salads and soups. L, D (daily). 802 Nashville
Ave., 504.533.9166; wishingtown.com
SHOPPING
Art Galleries & Antiques
A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY
The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; agallery.com
ALEX BEARD STUDIO
This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; alexbeardstudio.com
ANGELA KING GALLERY
One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com
ANTIEAU GALLERY
Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com
ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY
One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com
ASHLEY LONGSHORE
Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and
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you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; ashleylongshore.com
BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS
The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com
CRAIG TRACY GALLERY
The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com
DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP
This artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5; dutchalleyartistsco-op.com
FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY
Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 440 Julia St., 504.547.5931. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com
FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP
Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4; gofrenchantiques.com
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THE GUIDE Shopping Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm Front Back 610 Chartres Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504.522.9222 GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO THE ST. LOUIS GARDEN Silkscreen Designed by George Rodrigue in 2011 and Printed in 2023 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 37 x 15 inches 730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) www.GeorgeRodrigue.com New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244 Mon - Sat: 11:am - 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm Mon - Sat: 11:00am - 5:00pm
SHOPPING
GRAPHITE GALLERY
Something cutting-edge and cool? You’ll likely find it here. Works by emerging and midcareer artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw, along with up-and-coming local talents. 936 Royal St., 505. 577.7873. Map 3, H4; graphitenola.com
HAROUNI GALLERY
David Harouni has an eye for heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4; harouni.com
JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY
Home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6; jonathanferraragallery.com
KEIL’S ANTIQUES
Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com
LEMIEUX GALLERIES
Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; lemieuxgalleries.com
LEROY’S PLACE
A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture. 922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com
M.S.
RAU ANTIQUES
This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century
antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com
MARTINE CHAISSON
GALLERY
Contemporary is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists are featured. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5; martinechaissongallery.com
MICHALOPOULOS
The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com
MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY
Photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cuttingedge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4; modernistcuisinegallery.com
(MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY
David Bowie, the Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians. 627 St. Peter St.; mostlyrocknroll.com
RODRIGUE STUDIO
Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com
SCENE BY RHYS
“New Orleans music inked into art.” Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through
portraits of its musicians. 1036 Royal St., 504.258.5842. Map 3, H4; scenebyrhys.com
STELLA JONES GALLERY
New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for African American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave. #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4; stellajonesgallery.com
TERRANCE
OSBORNE GALLERY
Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com
VINTAGE 329
A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com
WINDSOR FINE ART
This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com
WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES
Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; wirthmoreantiques.com
Books & Music
BALDWIN & CO.
In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses
a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com
CRESCENT CITY BOOKS
Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks.com
EUCLID RECORDS
Two well-organized floors of new and used LPs share space with CDs, vintage concert posters and comics. It’s easy to spend an hour (or two) rummaging the racks here. 3301 Chartres St., 504.504.947.4348. Map 1, E3
FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS
For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com
LOUISIANA
MUSIC FACTORY
There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com
PEACHES RECORDS
For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4
Clothing, Hats, Shoes & Accessories
BELLA UMBRELLA
Cloudy skies? This shop helps keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrellas. 2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4; bellaumbrella.com
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BILLY REID
Award-winning designer
Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com
CENTURY GIRL
A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous retro fashions. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4;centurygirlvintage.com
DARK GARDEN
An offshoot of the acclaimed San Francisco corsetry and couture shop famed for its customized corsets and outof-the-norm bridal wear. 3528 Magazine St., 504.417.9751. Map 1, D4; darkgarden.com/nola
DIRTY COAST
Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com
GOORIN
BROS. HATS
The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com
H&M
This Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5; hm.com
JON FLUEVOG
“Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com
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THE GUIDE Shopping
SHOPPING
MEYER
THE HATTER
The oldest hat store in the South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of headwear in the country. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4; meyerthehatter.com
SHOE BE DO
Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com
TASC
Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com
TRASHY DIVA
Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com
UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS
A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; 3306 Magazine St., 504.354.2777. Map 1, D4; shopual.com
VICE & GRAFT
The inventory at this small shop is always new, thanks to a rotating collection of bygone finds by its owner. There’s a little something for everyone who delights in collectible vintage. 927 Royal St., 505.605.0500. Map 3, H4; viceandgraft.com
Gifts & Collectibles
BUNGALOWS
This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items.
610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222.
Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com
DARK MATTER
Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified birds and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5
FLEURTY GIRL
These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items.
617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529.
Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net
HOME MALONE
A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home decor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148.
Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. Map 1, D2 ;homemalonenola.com
IDEA FACTORY
Unique woodworking from around the U.S. This eclectic shop is geared to both young and old, offering toys and kitchen accessories as well as custom-made signs. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4; ideafactoryneworleans.com
NOLA KIDS
This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com
PAPIER PLUME
It’s only fitting that the French Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills and other desk accessories are featured. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4; papierplume.com
PASSION LILIE/ BEATRIX BELL
This designer-owned boutique features handcrafted jewelry and fairtrade clothing, along with a curated collection of home accessories, bath and body goods and gift items. 831 Chartres St., 504.5070644. Map 3, H5; plbbcollective. myshopify.com
SCRIPTURA
A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, journals, pens, note cards and travel diaries. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; scriptura.com
TRIXIE’S BURLESQUE BOUTIQUE
Burlesque artist Trixie Minx finally has a place of her own, with retail (feathered fans, sequined pasties) in the front and a how-to studio in back. 834 Chartres St., 504.420.6469. Map 3, H5; trixiesboutique.com
Gourmet Food & Spirits
AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP
Chances are you’ll catch scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily. 810 Decatur St., 504.944.6090. Map 3, H5; 750 St. Charles Ave., 504.522.4456. Map 3, B5; auntsallys.com
KEIFE & CO.
There’s a hushed library feel to this beautifully curated wine and spirits shop, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with vino, booze and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. 801 Howard Ave.,
504.523.7272. Map 3, B5; keifeandco.com
LAURA’S CANDIES
Laura’s dates to 1913, making it the oldest confectionery in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent Mississippi Mud. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 305 Royal St., 800.992.9699. Map 3, F4; laurascandies.com
ROUSES
This regional supermarket chain built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 400 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.488.2120. Map 1, D2; 4500 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.7910. Map 1, D4; rouses.com
SUCRE
French macarons are this sweet boutique’s mainstay, along with house-made chocolates, cupcakes and seasonal treats. 217 Royal St., 504.345.2600. Map 3, E4; 3025 Magazine St., 504.571.5323. Map 1, D4; shopsucre.com
VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS
The French Quarter’s most popular spot for fine wines, topshelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.9463. Map 3, F4
WHOLE FOODS
The organic grocery offers a wealth of all-natural goods and three locations. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119, 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2; wholefoodsmarket.com
Home
DERBY POTTERY & TILE
Mark Derby’s elegant Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; derbypottery.com
28 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023
HAZELNUT
NOLA native and Broadway vet Bryan Batt and his designer partner Tom Cianfichi have received well-deserved applause for their show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, like Crescent City-themed toile, are featured. 525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4; hazelnutneworleans.com
NOLA BOARDS
Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 31D4; nolaboards.com
ROUX ROYALE
This shop caters to food fanatics with select serving ware and kitchen accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Great selection of local cookbooks. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4; shoprouxroyale.com
SUNDAY SHOP
White walls, open shelving and ample floor space showcase an eclectic collection of cleanlined housewares, furnishings, bedding, art and more. 2025 Magazine St., 504.342.2087. Map 1, D4; sundayshop.co
Jewelry & Eyewear
ART & EYES
The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com
FLEUR D’ORLEANS
French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and Uptown ornamental columns are among the architectural elements incorporated into the jewelry here. 717 Royal St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; fleurdorleans.com
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THE GUIDE Shopping
SHOPPING/ATTRACTIONS
KREWE
This locally designed eyewear line, with styles named for New Orleans streets, has garnered a national following. 619 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, G4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; krewe.com
MIGNON FAGET
Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com
PORTER LYONS
Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com
WELLINGTON & CO.
This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com
Malls/Major Retailers
CANAL PLACE
Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Saks Fifth Avenue. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com
LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER
A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores. 301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com
RIVERWALK OUTLETS
Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops. 500 Port of New
Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com
ATTRACTIONS
Attractions & Landmarks
ARMSTRONG PARK
Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2
AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM
This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org
AUDUBON PARK
Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org
AUDUBON ZOO
Inhabited by more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org
CEASARS SUPERDOME
Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com
CITY PARK
Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com
CRESCENT PARK
Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater
neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescentparknola.org
ESCAPE MY ROOM
The concept of this interactive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. Reservations required. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6; escapemyroom.com
FRENCH MARKET
America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org
FULTON ALLEY
Putting a contemporary spin on the old bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with parlor games (bocce, foosball, etc.), craft cocktails and bigflavored small plates. 600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6; fultonalley.com
HARRAH’S CASINO
The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans
JACKSON SQUARE
The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5
JAMNOLA
Part Crescent City cultural museum/part Pee-wee’s Playhouse, this innovative attraction takes visitors on a vibrant visual journey through local life, as envisioned by area artists. Open Th-M. 2832 Royal St. Map 1, E3; jamnola.com.
MARDI GRAS WORLD
It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Daily tours, 9 am-5:30
pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; mardigrasworld.com
NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK
This pocket-sized park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Allen Toussaint, Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offer cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4
OLD URSULINE CONVENT
Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouiscathedral.org
PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE
This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com
SAINT AUGUSTINE CHURCH
The second-oldest African American Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. 12190 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934. Map 3, I2; staugchurch.org
SMOOTHIE KING CENTER
Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com
ST. BERNARD PARISH
Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com
ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL
Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849
30 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023
KILLER POBOYS
cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org
STUDIO BE
Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com
VUE ORLEANS
Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360-degree observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com
WOLDENBERG PARK
This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org
Historic Homes
BK HISTORIC HOUSE AND GARDENS
This beautifully restored 1826 villa is the former residence of both Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4; bkhouse.org
DESTREHAN PLANTATION
A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9 am-3 pm; F-Su, 10 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org
GALLIER HOUSE
The home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished
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THE GUIDE
Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731 Killer Poboys @ Erin Rose Bar 811 Conti St
Attractions
in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered W-M. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; hgghh.org
HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE
Built in 1831, this house/ museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered W-M. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; hgghh.org
HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS
Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com
PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM
Located along scenic Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-F, 10 am-3 pm. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2; louisianalandmarks.org
WHITNEY PLANTATION
Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 9:30 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org
Museums BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM
This Tremé landmark seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 11531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org
CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER
The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org
THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION
This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org
LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM
Kids learn through a “bajillion” hands-on activities at this award-winning museum. Its sprawling space in City Park offers a variety of interactive exhibits both indoors and out, geared to ages 8 and under. Open W-Su. 15 Thomas Henry Dr. (City Park), 504.523.1357. Map 3, D2; lcm.org
LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS
The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org
MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE
Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org
NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM
This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily,
9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org
NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM
This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org
NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM
Explore the misunderstood religion through artifacts and exhibits. Readings and cemetery tours are also available. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4; voodoomuseum.com
NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM
The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org
NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART
One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org
NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM
This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org
OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART
This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St.,
504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org
SAZERAC HOUSE
Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open Tu-Su, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com
ENTERTAINMENT
Cruises & Tours
AIRBOAT ADVENTURES
Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com
CANOE & TRAIL
ADVENTURES
Explore Lake Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Eco-conscious canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with rentals. 504.233.0686. canoeandtrail.com
CITY SIGHTSEEING
This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com
CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS
These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also available. 504.400.5468; confederacyofcruisers.com
CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER
Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com
32 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023
ATTRACTIONS/ENTERTAINMENT
DRINK + LEARN
Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com
FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS
These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from the Voodoo Lounge; reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; frenchquarterphantoms.com
GATORS AND GHOSTS
This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com
GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS
Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com
HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS
Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com
KAYAK-ITI-YAT
Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou St. John, which cuts a scenic swath through the midsection of the city, are offered W-M; call for launch times and location. (Tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2; kayakitiyat.com
KNOW NOLA TOURS
Specializing in Black heritage and culture, guide Malik
33 THE GUIDE Entertainment
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION S.PETERS IBERVILLE S. RAMPART UNIVERSITY PL. BARONNE CARONDELET ST CHARLES Canal Place Shopping MAGAZINE POYDRAS JULIA TCHOUPITOULAS PERDIDO UNION COMMON GRAVIER NATCHEZ DECATUR CHARTRES ROYAL BOURBON DAUPHINE BURGUNDY N. RAMPART BIENVILLE CONTI ST LOUIS TOULOUSE N. PETERS Jackson Brewery 200300400500 RIVERFRONTSTREETCARSteamboat Natchez Gray Line Tour Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park Algiers Ferry EXCHANGE ALLEY CANAL 100 CAMP O'KEEFE DORSIERE LOYOLA Riverwalk Insecterium 4 5 6 Vieux Carré Police Station HermannGrima House Louisiana Superdome Historic N.O. Collection Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Theatre Harrah’s Casino Creole Queen Ernest N. Morial Convention Center RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS Esplanade Ursulines Dumaine Toulouse Bienville Canal 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 1 Call Toll Free: 888-481-8188 Text: 504-226-5433 info@gatorsandghosts.com www.gatorsandghosts.com *Offer valid through July 31, 2023. Offer applies only to full-priced adult ticket orders placed at GatorsAndGhosts.com and must be entered at checkout. This offer is not combinable with other discounts, coupons or offers. Other restrictions may apply. Airboat Swamp Tours Ghost Tours Plantation Tours, City Tours and More! BOOK NOW ONLINE with promo code WHERE to save $3 per ticket* 2 2 4
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION ST PETER ORLEANS ST ANN DUMAINE ST . PHILIP URSULINES French Market Gov. NichollsSt.Wharf Brewery 600700 8009001000 1100 TCAR MOONWALK Steamboat Natchez DECATUR Mississippi River MADISON Pe destrian Mall Pe destrian Mall CHARTRES RO YA BOURBON DAUPHINE BURGUNDY RAMPART WILKINSON ROW 2 3 Jackson Square La tte's Blacksmith Shop Ursuline Conven Beauregard Keyes Hous Madame John's Legacy Gallie Hous Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park FRENCH QUAR Historic Algiers Point PIRATE’S ALLEY PERE ANTOINE ALLEY E~NO-WM_180500_07_g_Shopping.indd 34 104697-XX-320.indd 1 NO-WM_180500_028-037.indd 34 5 3 4 1 Dine? to 5 1 3 4
Bartholomew conducts twohour walking tours of the Tremé, French Quarter and Garden District. 504.264.2483. knownolatours.com
NOLA GONDOLA
A romantic retreat in the heart of the city. Board the Bella Mae, an authentic Venetian gondola, for a guided glide through scenic City Park. Big Lake Trail, 504.491.3245. Map 1, D2; nolagondola.com
QUEER HISTORY TOUR OF NEW ORLEANS
Guide Quinn Laroux takes visitors back in time, exploring the city’s LGBTQ+ history. Entertaining, informative and empowering, the French Quarter walking tour also highlights the oft-overlooked contributions of women and people of color. noladragtours.com
STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ
The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com
WHEEL FUN RENTALS
This company offers a variety of ways to explore City Park. Surrey, chopper, cruiser and tandem bikes are among the many cycles available for rent, in addition to kayaks, pedal boats and more. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289. Map 1, D2; wheelfunrentals.com
NIGHTLIFE
Cocktails
ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75
Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com
AVENUE PUB
The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3; theavenuepub.com
BAR MARILOU
With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar biteS. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com
CAFÉ LAFITTE IN EXILE
Billing itself as America’s oldest gay bar, Lafitte’s creates a party with high-energy music, hi-def video screens and a great Bourbon Street balcony. 901 Bourbon St., 504.522.8397. Map 3, H4; lafittes.com
CAROUSEL BAR
Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel and worth a peek even for teetotalers. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com
CHANDELIER BAR
The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans
LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP
This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com
PAT O’BRIEN’S
Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com
THE PEACOCK ROOM
It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails. 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, E5; hotelfontenot.com.
THE PENTHOUSE CLUB
This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com
SAZERAC BAR
Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com
THE WILL & THE WAY
This not-so-hidden gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated, easyto-digest bar bites menu. 719 Toulouse St. thewillandthe way.com
Live Entertainment
BLUE NILE
This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com
THE FILLMORE
Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com
HOUSE OF BLUES
The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com
THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE
This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St.,
504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com
KERMIT’S TREMÉ
MOTHER-IN-LAW LOUNGE
This hard-to-miss landmark, once home to late R&B artist Ernie K-Doe, is now owned by trumpeter Kermit Ruffins who regularly performs, along with other local acts. 1500 N. Claiborne Ave., 504.975.3955. Map 3, J1
MAPLE LEAF
A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com
PRESERVATION HALL
Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com
REPUBLIC NOLA
One of downtown’s hottest nightspots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; republicnola.com
THE SPOTTED CAT
This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com
TIPITINA’S
The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com
TOULOUSE THEATRE
This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former performance space in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting headliners. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com
36 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023 ENTERTAINMENT/NIGHTLIFE
MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH
MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA
37 THE GUIDE
Maps
NEW ORLEANS
Paris Rd Downman Rd TERRYTOWN Gretna 10 510 10 10 10 10 610 1 mi 2 km 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 A B C D E F G A B C D E F G Lake Pontchartrain Lake Maurepas Gulf of Mexico Gulf of Mexico Atchafalaya Bay Vermilion Bay Cailou Bay Terrebonne Bay Barataria Bay Abita Springs Folsom Grand Isle Lafitte Napoleonville Buras-Triumph Port Sulphur Covington Franklin Mandeville Plaquemine Houma New Iberia Slidell Abbeville Baker Hammond Laplace Thibodaux Metairie Kenner Lafayette New Orleans Baton Rouge Crowley Eunice Opelousas Venice Raceland 1 1 1 1 1 1 10 13 13 13 14 14 14 14 16 16 18 18 18 182 182 19 20 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 25 26 26 27 29 30 31 3127 35 35 39 41 56 57 70 82 82 91 165 165 167 167 190 190 190 190 190 51 61 61 61 71 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 10 mi 10 km 10 10 10 10 10 10 49 55 55 12 10 59 12 310 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 A B C D E F G A B C D E F G
MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER
NEW ORLEANS MAP NEW ORLEANS Wilkinson Cancer Survivors Park Champions Square HG HA HP RE EB RA HF SJ DT ST QC RC SC BL LH IC HI AC HT BI LP DR VH RO WG HD IN LQ PL EJ WC WO OE WQ BW WH JW HW PM RZ AS WQ ML MD SM FP OO OV MA RS PC HF HC CO DO DI LM MR BH FI CM LE LW HR HL FS CN MW SH OR HY AH MZ RH HS NO CA JU HE HH St Cathedral National WWII Museum Caesars Superdome Smoothie King Center Civic Theatre Joy Theater Orpheum Theater Canal St Ferry Landing CanalStFerry La. Supreme Court Building Canal Place Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage Poydras St. Wharf Girod St. Wharf New Orleans International Cruise Terminal Toulouse St. Wharf LSU Health Sciences Center Riverwalk Outlets Riverfront Streetcar Line St.CharlesStreetcarLine Canal Streetcar Line LoyolaStreetcarLine Rampart Streetcar Line 10 N.O. Pelicans 1/8 mi 200 m 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 A B C D E F G 8 A B C D E F G
38 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023
AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4
AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5
AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4
AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4
BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4
LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3
BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5
BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5
BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5
BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4
CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6
CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4
CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3
CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7
DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3
CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4
DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3
DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5
DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4
EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5
EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7
FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4
FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6
FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5
HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4
HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5
HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8
HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6
HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6
HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4
HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7
HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7
SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4
FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5
HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3
HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3
HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5
HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4
HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3
HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5
HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6
LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4
MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4
PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5
PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5
SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4
SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3
HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4
HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7
HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3
IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4
IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5
JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4
JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2
LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5
LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5
LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6
LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4
LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6
MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5
MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3
MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4
MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7
ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4
90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4
NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4
OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3
OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7
OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4
OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6
PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5
PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4
PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4
QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5
RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6
PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4
RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6
RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4
RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3
RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5
RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4
RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4
RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4
SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5
ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5
SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7
VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4
WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4
WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5
WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5
WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6
WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4
WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4
THE GUIDE 39 Maps SpainSt StRochAveFranklinAve RoyalSt DauphineStBurgundySt NRampartSt MaraisSt UrquartStNVillerreStNRobertsonSt StClaudeAve Madison Crescent Park PD BO 90 AJ CY CL HQ PP PV LK HM FR SP FS RF Louis Cathedral N.O. Jazz Museum/ Old U.S. Mint BK Historic House French Market Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf Riverfront Streetcar Line 10 Street Direction French Quarter HM Hotel KEY Jazzy Passes 1 day - $3 3 day - $9 31 day - 55 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as much as you’d like. Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25 Transit Routes H I J 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 H I J K K
Mist Opportunity
PARTING SHOT
40 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS JUNE 2023 ©LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM
Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya’s fog installation— one of only two in the nation—engulfs the footbridge leading to the Louisiana Children’s Museum (p. 32) every half hour.
Live free, child of the mist—and with respect to knowledge we are all children of the mist.
– HENRY DAVID THOREAU
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