Where Magazine New Orleans July 23

SOUND + LIGHT EXPERIENCE

Expressions of America is an immersive, sound and light show that combines cutting-edge technology and special e ects with the real words and stories of everyday people who made a tremendous impact during a time of monumental con ict.

Tickets on sale now!

Tickets on sale now!

expressionsofamerica.org

Use

Picasso

Mr. Brainwash

Jose Basso

Rembrandt

20 Things We Love About New Orleans

Uplifting murals, whiffs of barbecue smoke and 18 more of our favorite things.

Now See This

Seven museum exhibits to seek out, from politics and patriotism to American fashion and three centuries of Southern art.

Chef Justin Devillier’s LPG Burger at La Peitite Grocery. ©DENNY CULBERT

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org.

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Dutch Alley

Artist’s Co-op James Jensen upcycles his fabulous Glamour Trash jewels from vintage vinyl. Various nishes are added to give color and texture. All layers are painstakingly hand-cut and assembled right here in the Crescent City. Always in wild demand, his “jewels” are included in the collections of Bette Midler, Elton John and Quincy Jones.

MARKET MERCH

Micah McGrath is a self-taught leatherworker whose hand-dyed designs emphasize vibrant color and functional beauty. Micah’s work focuses primarily on making wallets, purses, bags and accessories that blend beauty and heirloom durability with every detail, from custom hand-dyes to edging and stitching, done by hand by the artist himself.

WHAT’S HAPPENING

July 1

Holiday Weekend at the French Market

Enjoy a festive day at the market featuring food vendors, live music and a performance by the National WWII Museum’s Victory Belles.

August 19

Barbegazi Snoball Fight by the Krewe of Krampus

A day of icy fun and thrilling competition with some of New Orleans’ favorite krewes battling it out to see who has the best snoball avor!

© ZACK SMITH

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

Oh, those lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer. ose days of soda and pretzels and beer…and hamburgers. From Independence Day barbecues to picnics in the park to pop-up pool parties, burgers are synonymous with summertime celebrations. Sure, there are hot dogs and apple pie, but—for me—nothing says “all-American” quite like a juicy, beefy beauty sandwiched in a soft brioche bun

Catering to my cravings, food writer Lorin Gaudin hit the burger beat this month, grazing her way around town in search of the perfect patties. From homey mom-and-pop shops to white-tablecloth establishments, slightly mashed singles to towering two-tiered numbers, she found something for almost every taste, with a few fries and onion rings on the side for good munching measure.

Summertime in New Orleans is also synonymous with near-insu erable heat. Hence our roundup of cool new exhibits on view at local museums, where you can absorb a little culture while simultaneously soaking up the air conditioning. e rowdy Running of the Bulls, the dueling-barge reworks show, free cocktail samples, simulated fog, buttery BBQ shrimp: You’ll nd more of our favorite things elsewhere in this issue.

Summer in the Crescent City? Pace yourself, apply plenty of sunscreeen, hydrate (with water)—and take a big bite out of it!

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Terri Simon

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

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CALENDAR

WHAT’S HAPPENING THE LINEUP

SAN FERMIN IN NUEVA ORLEANS

JULY 15

What’s red, white and fun all over? New Orleans’ take on Pamplona’s annual Running of the Bulls. Dressed in standard Spanish encierro attire (all white clothing with red sashes and kerchiefs), cerveza-fueled runners are chased through the streets of the city. But here, the traditional stampeding livestock is replaced with not-so-traditional “bulls”—i.e., horn-wearing members of female roller derby leagues wielding plastic bats. e kookiness kicks o at 8 am and is followed by the even-sillier Fiesta de Pantalones. For details, visit nolabulls.com.

GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH

Essence Festival of Culture

July 1-2

Missy Elliot, Jill Scott, Meghan Thee Stallion and Wizkid headline the nal two nights of the 29th annual “party with a purpose”

at Caesars Superdome. This year’s gathering spotlights 50 years of hip-hop. essencefestival.com

Werq the World Tour

July 1

“Ru Paul’s Drag Race” Season 15 winner Sasha Colby joins other former contestants for “the world’s largest drag production” at the Mahalia Jackson Theater.” mahalia jacksontheater.com

Go Fourth on the River

July 4 Head to the riverfront Crescent Park for this free, star-spangled affair, which kicks off at 5:30 pm with live music and culminates with a massive dueling-barge

reworks display at 9 pm. go4thontheriver.com

Fully Loaded Comedy Tour

June 7

Funny guy Bert Kreischer is back on the road with his band of merrymakers, including Lewis Black, Tiffany Haddish and New Orleans’ Mark Normand, along with more than a dozen additional standout stand-ups. smoothieking center.com

Tales of the Cocktail

July 23-28

The world’s leading cocktail conference raises a glass to 21 years in New Orleans. Though geared to mixologists and industry professionals, everyday enthusiasts

are also invited to imbibe in the weeklong booze fest. talesofthecocktail.org

Alicia Keys

July 23

The 15-time Grammywinning “Queen of R&B” performs in the round at the Smoothie King Center on her “Keys to the Summer” tour. smoothiekingcenter.com

Sweet Bird of Youth

July 28-Aug. 13

The Tennessee Williams Theatre Company dusts off the playwright’s 1959 Mississippi-set drama about a past-his-prime gigolo and an aging actress for a fresh, new staging at the Marigny Opera House. twtheatrenola.com

GO FOURTH ON THE RIVER

TALES OF THE COCKTAIL

SAN FERMIN IN NUEVA ORLEANS

Big Easy Burgers

Stacked or smashed, basic or loaded, New Orleans has a burger to crush your craving

LORIN GAUDIN

Sometimes, no matter where you are or how amazing the food is, you just need a burger. Case in point: New Orleans. e city has fantastic regional food and, gratefully, loads of burger options (fancy and casual) occupying menu space. is town can smash a burger at iconic eateries like Bud’s Broiler or Camellia Grill, but just about every restaurant, café, bar or pop-up has excellent burgers. And yes, hamburger/cheeseburger po’ boys are de nitely a thing.

Just remember, dining here is a marathon, not a sprint. Feast on as many local specialties as possible, comforted by the knowledge that when you need a break, there is a great burger close at hand. One of the best things about eating around New Orleans, you can truly have it your way.

MANDINA’S

At this massive, pink-painted Mid-City temple to New Orleans food, the hidden gem is the hand-formed burger, grilled as you like (yes, they’ll do medium-rare!), dressed as you like, served on a bun or French bread. Sure, there are fries, but get the onion rings. Trust us.

3800 CANAL ST., 504.482.9179; MANDINASRESTAURANT.COM

FRANKIE & JOHNNY’S

Near Audubon Park and the zoo, F&J’s has cold oysters, seasonal boiled seafood, incredible cheese fries and a sizable menu of plate-lunch favorites. Get some of everything and a cheeseburger po’ boy (dressed with pickles) for the table. It’s top-notch and totally shareable.

321 ARABELLA ST., 504.243.1234; FRANKIEANDJOHNNYS.NET

FROM LEFT: MANDINA'S AND FRANKIE & JOHNNY'S CHEESE FRIES

COOP’S BURGERS

Shelby Dillenko er Cooper runs this newish burger pop-up where juicy, crisp-edged smash burgers are piled onto toasted white bread buns. Get yours super cheesy or not, add a preponderance of pickles, or not, and be sure to peep social media for dates and times, though she tends to have a regular ursday spot at Rendezvous Bar on Magazine Street.

@COOPS.BURGERS

COCHON BUTCHER

e more casual sister restaurant to Cochon o ers two burgers—Le Pig Mac (two all pork patties, special sauce, lettuce, American cheese, pickles and onions on a sesame seed bun) and the beefy Butcher Burger, which comes dressed with all the usual stu and generous swipes of mayo and house-made mustard.

930 TCHOUPITOULAS ST., 504.588.7675; COCHONBUTCHER.COM

THE CHLOE

Sit at a table facing St. Charles Avenue or by the beautiful pool for chef Todd Pulsinelli’s meaty Twin Stack Burger that comes fully dressed on a poppy seed bun and accompanied by a pile of crispy shoestring fries.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COOP'S BURGERS, TOUPS' MEATERY, COCHON BUTCHER'S LE PIG MAC AND THE CHLOE

Be sure to save room for whatever hand pie pastry chef Evan Vodicka has on the menu. Divine.

4125 ST. CHARLES AVE., 504.541.5500; THECHLOENOLA.COM

TOUPS’ MEATERY

e Toups Burger lets diners experience a Cajuncountri ed burger with a lush spread of Creole aioli, house-made bacon, cheddar and pickled squash atop a fat Wagyu beef patty. To go big, order the “Chef’s Lunch” which includes a link of smokey boudin, the burger and a beer. No meal is complete without an order of candied cracklings (rillons). Do it.

845 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.252.4999; TOUPSMEATERY.COM

STANLEY

Right on Jackson Square, at the corner of St. Ann, the menu at chef Scott and Tanya Boswell’s cool café includes really, really good gumbo and the Stanley Double Bacon Cheeseburger—smashed beef patties, cheese, pecan-smoked bacon, a pickle-onion relish and their homemade Stanley Prime 77 Sauce on a multi-seeded bun. A side of fries is included.

547 ST. ANN ST., 504.587.0093; STANLEYRESTAURANT.COM

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Chef Chris Barbato’s food at this popular Bywater neighborhood spot is notable on its own (check out the ever-changing menu), but also " e Club" has a fun pool, outdoor bar/dining area, as well as a swank indoor bar and dining. Here, the people watching and vibe are almost as good as the Angus Beef Burger and the legendary hand-cut house fries. If chef Lisa Barbato has a pie on her dessert menu, get a slice. Order dessert in any event and thank me later.

634 LOUISA ST., 504.945.0742; THECOUNTRYCLUBNEWORLEANS.COM

LA PETITE GROCERY

Make a reservation in advance for a coveted table at chef Justin Devillier’s charming Magazine Street bistro, for sure, but the real move is getting a seat at the bar. Once settled in, order a Sazerac and Devillier’s outstanding grilledto-order LPG Cheeseburger, which comes with house pickles, peppery arugula, onion marmalade, whole grain mustard, smoked aioli and gruyère chesse, atop a big beef patty; served with crisp, hand-cut fries.

4238 MAGAZINE ST., 504.891.3377; LAPETITEGROCERY.COM

GRIS-GRIS

Another restaurant with excellent seats for people watching (book a balcony table), Louisiana food faves (gumbo and oyster pie, for instance) and a stellar burger. Chef Eric Cook’s LGD (the acronym for Lower Garden District) Burger is beautifully chargrilled ground chuck and condiments on a toasted pretzel bun. Shhh…don’t tell, but sometimes we eat here in reverse—dessert rst—because “Pie Mama” Angela DiMaggio’s slices are beyond good.

1800 MAGAZINE ST., 504.272.0241; GRISGRISNOLA.COM

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©DENNY CULBERT; ©THE COUNTRY CLUB; ©STANLEY; ©RANDY SCHMIDT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LA PETITE GROCERY, THE COUNTRY CLUB, STANLEY AND GRIS-GRIS

20 ings We Love About New Orleans

1 The hunger-inducing scent of smoked meat wafting in the air outside Devil Moon BBQ.

2 Letting someone else do the leg work on pedal-powered pedicab rides.

3 Ficus Ceramica’s cute crop of food-themed pipes at C’Mere.

4 Gobbling smothered turkey necks at Saint John.

5 Recreating French Quarter ambiance at home with ickering gas lamps from Bevolo.

6 Swilling free samples while roaming the equally free Sazerac House.

7 Local retailers who blast the AC while leaving doors open to lure shoppers in.

8 Grown men in bibs blubbering like babies over the buttery barbecue shrimp at Mr. B’s.

9 Brandan “BMike” Odums’ oversized, uplifting murals.

10 Faulkner House Books, housed in the building where the author wrote his rst novel, “Solider’s Pay,” in 1925.

11 Visiting France without a passport via dinner at MaMou.

12 Getting a jump on 4th festivities with City Park’s annual 3rd of July Celebration.

13 Fishing around the newly revamped Audubon Aquarium.

14 Chef Mike Nelson’s “ocean conservation cuts” of seafood and Salty Malty Ice Cream Pie at GW Fins.

15 The simulated fog installation engul ng the footbridge leading to the Louisiana Children’s Museum.

16 Seaworthy’s Insta-worthy aming Holy Water cocktail.

17 Diving deep into a pile a crisp-fried zucchini fritti at San Lorenzo.

18

Carrying open umbrellas on cloudless summer days.

19

The Will & Way’s loaded beef bulgogi fries.

20

The New Orleans Jazz Museum’s free Music Fridays.

NOW SEE THIS

What’s new on the walls at local museums

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

Independence Day isn’t only about reworks. American Democracy: A Great Leap of Faith salutes the continuing evolution of government “of the people, by the people, for the people.” Drawn from a permanent exhibit of the same name at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History, the traveling multimedia experience is divided into ve sections exploring democracy’s origins, voting rights, political discourse and engagement, social activism and the broader notion of citizenship. The tandem Yet She Is Advancing exhibit examines women’s voting rights through

a local lens, with emphasis on Black women’s political challenges and persistence from the late 1800s to the 1970s. 520 Royal St., 504.523.4662; hnoc.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

Patriotism and perseverance are also on display in The Go for Broke Spirit, a selection of Los Angeles-based photographer Shane Sato’s images of Japanese Americans who served in WWII. Dressed in uniform, the veteran’s portraits

are accompanied by short stories of their lives, in addition to related artifacts and oral histories from the museum’s permanent collection. Walt Disney Studios and World War II pays tribute to the House of Mouse’s wartime contributions, from producing public service announcements and training lms to propaganda campaigns and employees who left the studio to join forces on the frontlines. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944; nationalww2museum.org

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: “FASHIONING AMERICA: GRIT TO GLAMOUR,” “AMERICAN DEMOCRACY: A GREAT LEAP OF FAITH” AND “RING REDUX”

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; COURTESY OF NATIONAL ARCHIVES AND RECORDS ADMINISTRATION; ©RAOUL GATCHALIAN/THOMAS LAU; ©SCAD MUSEUM OF ART

“YET SHE IS ADVANCING”

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

Opening July 21, Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour celebrates the innovation and global in uence of the national garment industry. Spotlighting more than 100 U.S. designers and labels, with special focus on underrecognized contributors and communities, the wide-ranging exhibition is complemented with fashionfocused artworks. Highlights include a 19th-century gown by New Orleans’ own Madame Olympe (one of the earliest American labels), Isabel Toledo’s prototype for Michelle Obama’s 2009 inauguration suit, Nudie Cohn’s rhinestone-covered Western wear and Tyron Perrin’s glittery suit and cape bounce artist Big Freedia wore at the Miss Universe pageant, which was held here earlier

this year. Staying on trend, the concurrent Ring Redux exhibit reimagines traditional jewelry designs through more than 100 avant-garde pieces by contemporary international artists, incorporating unconventional materials such as spun polyester and goat hair.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle, 504.658.4100; noma.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

One of the Ogden’s largest exhibits to date, Knowing Who We Are encompasses the entire museum. In celebration of its 20th anniversary, the massive yearlong exhibition, with works divided by movements on different oors, is culled from the museum’s extensive holdings, which have grown from 600 works since its founding in 2003 to more than 4,000. It’s a re ection not

only of the Ogden’s everexpanding acquisitions but also the evolution of Southern art—and artists—over the past two decades. Start on the fth oor, where “The Contemporary Dialogue” showcases 21st-century artists working in all manner of media, before heading to the fourth, where “The Rise of Abstraction, Vernacular Art and Photography” includes works by 20th-century greats like Dusti Bongé, William Christenberry, Clementine Hunter, John T. Scott and Marion Post Wolcott. “From 19th-Century Academic Painting Through Southern Regionalism” on the third oor features earlier artists such as Walter Anderson, John Drysdale, William Dunlap, Walter Evans, Julian Onderdonk and dozens more. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650; ogdenmuseum.org

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: “THE GO FOR BROKE SPIRIT,” “WALT DISNEY STUDIOS AND WORLD WAR II” AND “THE DREAMER,” BY HELEN MARIA TURNER, PART OF “KNOWING WHO WE ARE”

RICE RICE BABY

Riz au lait with caramel and strawberry from Mamou (p. 17). As of press time, the following listings were accurate and up to date but subject to change; call to verify hours.

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

DOMENICA

Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus.

D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril

Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city

includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and clay pot dirty rice with duck. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

POKE LOA

Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

SEAWORTHY

Seafood. This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West Coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

French Quarter

ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L (M, Th-F), D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 713 St. Louis

St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnaudsrestaurant.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennansneworleans.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet

and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

MAMOU

French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red bean cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parsley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal

DINING/SHOPPING

St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

STANLEY

Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

FAT BOY PANTRY

Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb bellyand-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514; fatboypantry.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

SAN LORENZO

Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Great wine list. L (MF), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland

Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. This long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates or full-on entrees, such as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

N7

French. This tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City

ADDIS NOLA

African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel

and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

UPTOWN COSTERA

Spanish This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (Th-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

HANSEN’S SNO-BLIZ

Dessert. Since 1934 locals have been lining up for Hansen’s signature shaved-ice snowballs. Open daily. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788. Map 1, D4; snobliz.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

SABA

Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works

are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY

One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built onsite. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 440 Julia St., 504.547.5931. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

MICHALOPOULOS

The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

TERRANCE

OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Clothing, Hats, Shoes & Accessories

BILLY REID

Award-winning designer

Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com

DIRTY COAST

Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

TRASHY DIVA

Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

C’MERE

Short for “come here!,” this small shop entices with owner Remy’s tiny food jewelry and handmade goods from other local crafters. 427 Esplanade Ave., 781.367.2799. Map 3, J5; cmerenola.com

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified birds and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity

artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS

For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

LOUISIANA

MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

NOLA BOARDS

Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 31D4; nolaboards.com

NOLA KIDS

This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com

PASSION LILIE/ BEATRIX BELL

This designer-owned boutique features handcrafted jewelry and fairtrade clothing, along with a curated collection of home accessories, bath and body goods and gift items. 831 Chartres St., 504.5070644. Map 3, H5; plbbcollective. myshopify.com

Jewelry & Eyewear

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

KREWE

This locally designed eyewear line has garnered a national following. 619 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, G4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; krewe.com

PORTER LYONS

Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com

WELLINGTON & CO.

This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Saks Fifth Avenue. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER

Conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport, Lakeside houses more than 120 stores. 301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops. 500 Port of New

Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM

This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO

Inhabited by more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

CEASARS SUPERDOME

Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features

a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

Museums

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter

and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM

Kids learn through a “bajillion” hands-on activities at this award-winning museum in City Park. Open Tu-Sa (9:30 am-4 pm), Su (11:30 am-4:30pm). 15 Thomas Henry Dr. (City Park), 504.523.1357. Map 3, D2; lcm.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon- 7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-6 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while

sipping samples along the way. Free. Open Tu-Su, 11 am-4:20 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily

harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar biteS. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—

the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

THE WILL & THE WAY

This not-so-hidden gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated bar bites menu. 719 Toulouse St. thewillandtheway.com

Live Entertainment

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former performance space in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting headliners. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

PARTING SHOT

In the Flesh

“Royal Touch,” by award-winning bodypainter Craig Tracy, who visitors often nd on site at his Royal Street gallery (p. 20), the world’s rst devoted to the craft.