Way-Cool
Murals
Beer + Bites
Satchmo
Fest, White/ Dirty Linen
Night and More
Summertime Fun
Way-Cool
Murals
Beer + Bites
Satchmo
Fest, White/ Dirty Linen
Night and More
Summertime Fun
Expressions of America is an immersive, sound and light show that combines cutting-edge technology and special e ects with the real words and stories of everyday people who made a tremendous impact during a time of monumental con ict.
Tickets on sale now!
Tickets on sale now!
expressionsofamerica.org
How best to beat the August heat? Ice cream! ©CAVANIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK
The city is full of magnificent murals. Grab your camera and go exploring.
Summertime and the sippin’—and nibblin’— is easy.
Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org.
Dutch Alley
Artist’s Co-op
As a New Orleans native, Carol Flannery is known for her Louisiana-themed jewelry and custom-designed stained glass. Her jewelry is inspired by the culture and the delicious cuisine down South. She incorporates sterling silver, dichroic and lamp-worked pieces in her collection. Carol has been with the Dutch Alley Artist’s Coop for over 15 years.
Seasoning’s special blend of herbs and spices is the perfect complement to delicious ripe tomatoes and more French Market produce. It’s also great on chicken and chili, salads and seafood, soup and scrambled eggs. From French fries to let mignon, you can truly...PUT IT ON YA EVERYTHING!!!
Getcha some at French Market Produce in the Farmers Market.
August 19
Barbegazi Snoball Fight by the Krewe of Krampus
A day of icy fun and thrilling competition with some of New Orleans’ favorite krewes battling it out to see who has the best snoball avor!
September 16
Hispanic Heritage Festival
Join us for our Hispanic Heritage Month celebration featuring a full day of live music, Hispanic and Latino food booths and community organizations.
© ZACK SMITHIt’s a question often posed this time of year: Why on earth would someone visit New Orleans during August? It is a valid one, given temperatures that generally reach the mid- to high-90s by noon and the late-afternoon deluges that accompany them, generating the trademark humidity the city is oh-so famous for. And, of course, there’s the possibility/likelihood of a disturbance in the Gulf, with Hurricane Katrina’s anniversary at month’s end still resonating 18 years out.
e answer is found in the lyrics of Louis Armstrong’s signature song— “Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?”—which served as an anthem for locals scattered around the country following Katrina. If you know, you know. ere’s simply no other place like it, no matter the month.
I moved to New Orleans in August 2001, the same year Satchmo SummerFest, celebrating Armstrong’s birthday (Aug. 4), debuted. Friends at the time questioned my sanity, but having visited here the prior summer, I was prepared for the heat and solidly smitten—not unlike the faithful festgoers who return each August to sweat it on the grounds of the Old U.S. Mint in honor of the late jazz great. If you know, you know.
Satchmo Fest, White and Dirty Linen Nights, the Red Dress Run, Saints home games, hot dining deals: ere’s lots of cool things to indulge in during August, despite the heat. To paraphrase Pops—what a wonderful month!
PUBLISHER
Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com
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ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com
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Can’t take the heat? Then stay out of the kitchen and dig into these specially priced prix- xe menus at restaurants citywide. neworleans.com/ coolinary/
AUGUST 5-6
e trademark trumpet, and waving white handkerchief, the twinkling eyes and signature smile: All things Armstrong—the late great Louis Armstrong— are celebrated during the free Satchmo SummerFest at the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint. Dozens of performers pay tribute to “Pops” on two outdoor stages, while jazz scholars and Armstrong experts conduct discussions inside. For a full lineup of acts and events, visit satchmosummerfest.org.
The New Orleans Museum of Art morphs into a mini Met Gala with this salute to the garment industry, showcasing more than 100 U.S. designers and labels. noma.org
AUGUST 5 & 12
Art lovers dressed in their breezy best swarm Julia Street on White Linen Night, when galleries between the 300 and 600 blocks (and along adjacent side streets) mount new exhibits while serving up cool sips, nibbles and live entertainment, from 5 to 10 pm. e following week brings Dirty Linen (get it?), with a decidedly funkier atmosphere, between the 300 and 1100 blocks of Royal Street. artsdistrictneworleans.com; dirtylinen.org
August 4, 11, 18 & 25
The free summertime concert series continues with the Brass-A-Holics (Aug. 4), the Honey Island Swamp Band (Aug. 11), Billy Iuso (Aug. 18) and Raw Deal: A Tribute to Earth, Wind & Fire (Aug. 25). tipitinas.com
NOLA Pickleball Fest
August 10-13
Drew Brees moves from the football eld to the pickleball court with this foundation fundraiser, featuring three divisions of round-robin play on 24
courts, live music and a celebrity match at the Convention Center. nolapickle fest.com
Red Dress Run
August 12
This “drinking club with a running problem” hits the streets at 11:30 am, starting at Crescent Park along the riverfront. The race is usually over by noon, but you’ll spot crimson-attired stragglers stumbling around the French Quarter way into the wee hours. Consider yourself warned. nolareddress.com
New Orleans Saints
August 13 & 27
New quarterback Derek Carr faces off against reigning Super Bowl champ Patrick Mahomes and the Kansas City Chiefs in the Saints’ preseason opener, before tackling the Houston Texans at month’s end. caesarssuperdome.com
Counting Crows
August 18
Adam Duritz and company pull into town on thier Banshee Season Tour, joined by Dashboard Confessional. saengernola.com
Barbegazi Snoball Fight
August 19
The way-cool (and frightfully fun) Krewe of Krampus, which parades in December, heralds the end of summer with a snoball showdown at the French Market. kreweofkrampus.com
Southern Decadence
August 31-Sept. 4
Labor Day weekend brings thousands of revelers for the South’s largest LGBTQ+ gathering. The highlight of the four-day, non-stop party is a foot parade through the Quarter. southern decadence.net; southern decadenceparade.com
Champions Square
Aug. 23: 3 Doors Down. champions-square.com
Civic Theatre
Aug. 24: Please Don’t Destroy. civicnola.com
House of Blues
Aug. 3: Leela James; Aug. 5: Black Flag; Aug. 11: Jimmie Vaughn; Aug. 25: Blessthefall. hob.com
Joy Theater
Aug. 1: Jidenna; Aug. 3: Tim Heidecker; Aug. 5: Killer Mike; Aug. 22: Jpegma a with Danny Brown; Aug. 23: Weyes Blood. thejoytheater.com
Mahalia Jackson Theater
Aug. 4: Bored Teachers Comedy Tour. mahalia jacksontheater.com
Orpheum Theatre
Aug. 8: The Ghost Inside and Underoath; Aug. 17: Lyle Lovett; Aug. 22: Brent Faijaz. orpheumnola.net
Saenger Theater
Aug. 18: Counting Crows with Dashboard Confessional; Aug. 25: Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. saengernola.com
Smoothie King Center
Aug. 22: Lil Durk; Aug. 31: Christian Nodal. smoothiekingcenter.com
Toulouse Theatre
Aug. 2: Horsegirl with Lifeguard; Aug. 11: KPOP Club Night; Aug. 19: Bay Ledges. toulousetheatre.com
Scooped, rolled, cupped or coned—New Orleans’ ice cream obsession traces back generations Terri Simon
It’s no secret that Sicilians made major contributions to southern Louisiana culture and cuisine. There’s the region’s unique version of marinara sauce—or “red gravy”—and the cured meat-and-olive salad specialty sandwich known as the muffaletta. These Creole-Italian classics trace their roots to the late 1800s. Political and economic strife at home led many Sicilians to look for opportunity abroad; they found it in Louisiana. By the 1880s, three steamships a month were ferrying Sicilians to New Orleans. So many settled in the downriver side of the French Quarter that the neighborhood earned the nickname “Little Palermo.”
Among the new arrivals was Angelo Brocato. A native of Cefalu, Brocato apprenticed in pastry and gelato shops in the old country and brought his craft with him to the Crescent City, where locals soon fell in love with his traditional Sicilian treats. After his death in 1946, the Brocato family kept his legacy—and business—alive. Today’s Angelo Brocato’s, at 214 N. Carrollton Avenue in the
Mid-City neighborhood (504.486.0078), still serves classic gelati and spumoni, along with the family’s most famous frozen treat: lemon Italian ice.
In the 100-plus years since frosty Sicilian fare took New Orleans by storm, the city’s ice cream landscape has greatly expanded. Here are just a few of locals’ favorite places for ice cream and other sweet treats to beat the summer heat.
This 1950s-style ice cream parlor serves plain scoops as well as sundaes, splits, malts and Italian sodas. Its wide variety of avors, all made in house, include Café au Lait and Creole Cream Cheese, in addition to a rotating roster of seasonal options such as Magnolia Flower and Golden Summer Fig. Its menu also includes sherbets and dairy-free sorbets. Can’t decide on just one? Try a miniscoop sampler.
At this French Quarter gem, classic avors are updated and reimagined. The result is complex combinations that are both familiar and totally new. An infusion of jasmine ower turns plain vanilla into Fleur de VaNola, while Steen’s cane syrup and brioche crumbles transforms Creole cream cheese into The St. Pierre. The Marigny marries cucumber and sweet basil in a vegan sorbet so refreshing you might nd yourself coming back for seconds…or thirds.
710 ST. LOUIS ST., 504.345.8085
Purveyors of New Orleans’ famous summertime snack that offer “stuffed” snoballs—with a layer of
ice cream hidden in the syrup-covered shaved ice—aren’t rare. What makes this off-the-beaten-path spot deep in the 7th Ward unique is that its snoballs are stuffed with a scoop of real vanilla ice cream, not soft-serve. Along with snoball-stand standards like hot dogs and burgers, Stop Jockin’s food menu includes options like shrimp nachos and craw sh fries.
3600 ST. BERNARD AVE., 504.206.0992
At Roulé Rolled, ice cream isn’t scooped, it’s rolled in a style that was first popularized in Thailand. Flavored cream is poured onto a freezing-cold plate and transformed into ice cream as you watch. Its expansive menu of flavors (includ -
ing dairy- and sugar-free options), mix-ins, toppings and sauces mean s there’s something for everyone at this Westbank destination.
401 HUEY P. LONG AVE., GRETNA, 504.619.9797
This Warehouse District space has a distinctly grown-up vibe. In addition to frozen fare, Drip serves light bites, such as charcuterie and crostini, and specialty cocktails in a decadent lounge setting. Specializing in affogato—ice cream or gelato with espresso dripped over—this dessert bar’s menu of small-batch avors is always changing, but consistently delicious.
703 CARONDELET ST., #101, 504.309.3291
They’re everywhere, from the Central Business District, where a 150-foot-tall depiction of jazz pioneer Sidney Bechet’s clarinet scales the side of the Holiday Inn on Loyola Avenue, to the Lower Garden District, where an oversized “Greetings From NOLA” postcard at Magazine and Josephine streets all but screams for a sel e. North Rampart Street, St. Claude Avenue, the Claiborne Avenue I-10 overpass, the Tchoupitoulas Street oodwall,
Uptown, downtown, Mid-City, Central City—murals are having a moment in New Orleans.
It’s nothing new, really, public art has long been a draw for Crescent City visitors; take Xavier Gonzalez’s WPA-era aviation-themed murals at Lakefront Airport, for instance, or Conrad Albrizio’s 1950s Louisiana history frescos lining Union Passenger Terminal. But recent years have witnessed a proliferation of new, larger-than-life works sprouting up all around town, thanks to
initiatives such as the NOLA Mural Project (nolamuralproject.org) and the Arts Council of New Orleans’ “Unframed” series (artsneworleans. org), as well as attention-grabbing local talents like Brandan “BMike” Odums (bmike.co), whose empowering street art is found citywide and has been commissioned elsewhere around the nation.
Grab your smartphone and set o on a self-guided tour of Instaready art. You’ll spot something at almost every turn.
“Recent years have witnessed a proliferation of new, larger-than-life works sprouting up all around town.”CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THE ASHÉ CULTURAL CENTER AT 1712 ORETHA CASTLE HALEY BOULEVARD, “RISE & PRESERVE” AT CHARTRES AND PIETY, PATRICK MAXCY’S NEW 10,000-SQUARE-FOOT WORK AT THE AUDUBON AQUARIUM (CANAL STREET AT THE RIVER), ENGLISH STREET-ART LEGEND BANKSY’S “THE UMBRELLA GIRL” AT NORTH RAMPART AND KERLEREC AND “UNTITLED,” BY MOMO, ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE OGDEN MUSEUM AT 925 CAMP STREET
1MUKBANG
ere is a Vietnamese food-and-drink tradition called “quán nhâu” that roughly translates to “beer-drinking food.” Mukbang has an entire menu dedicated to this practice. After hitting the shops along Oak Street, pop into this cute, upbeat spot for rounds of chilled Saigon beer and platters of shareable street foods. Order this: Bánh Khot (bite-sized, crispy coconutand-rice our cups topped with shrimp, chopped scallion and bits of pickled carrot); steamed clams (with Vietnamese French bread) in dunkable, drinkable aromatic lemongrass broth; spicy grilled squid; and Nem Nuong (grilled pork meat patties on green onion skewers).
8312 OAK ST., 504.345.2695
Following a stroll or a roll (by bike) along the La tte Greenway, the move is a Mid-City stop at this New Orleans classic. Here, enormous schooners of draft beer appear like magical, cooling crystal balls, a perfect partner to big onion rings, fried deep
golden. Dunk rings in the local passion for ketchup showered with black pepper, then consider adding these treats to the table: a cup of red beans and rice, fresh-cut French fries (the absolute gold standard) or Eggplant Medallions with red gravy.
3636 BIENVILLE ST., 504.482.9120
You’ve hit the zoo and done some shopping damage on Magazine Street—nice work. Port Orleans is a great nearby respite. Part brewery, part restaurant and all fun, it’s perfectly kid-friendly (side yard with room to play), while the adults go for ights or pints of house-brewed beers on tap, and everyone can tuck into easy bites from food partner Avo Taco. ink guac, nachos and tacos with loads of meat and veg options. We’re partial to the guacamole with caramelized pineapple, bacon and cotija cheese, the Carnitas Nachos and Bu alo Soldier tacos with sriracha-coconut chicken, slaw and blue cheese sauce.
Tartines from Flour Moon Bagels (p. 20), named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit. As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change.
Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com
Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com
Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus.
D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com
MAYPOP
Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com
MERIL
International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril
PÊCHE
Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple
seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.
From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com
POKE LOA
Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174.
Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993.
Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com
ARNAUD’S
Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com
BRENNAN’S
Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711.
Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com
Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com
Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St.,
504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com
Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com
GW FINS
Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com
French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com
KILLER POBOYS
Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com
French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red bean cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parsley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com
MR.
Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its
deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com
NAPOLEON HOUSE
Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com
SAINT JOHN
Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com
THAIHEY NOLA
Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com
COMMANDER’S PALACE
Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com
French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine
St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com
GRIS-GRIS
Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com
TURKEY AND THE WOLF
Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com
BACCHANAL
Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com
THE COUNTRY CLUB
Louisiana. This long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates or full-on entrees, such as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com
N7
French. This tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com
PALADAR 511
Contemporary. California
cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny
St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com
BLUE OAK BBQ
Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com
FLOUR MOON BAGELS
Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the must-get here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and openfaced tartines. B, L (Th-Tu).
457 N. Dergenois St. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com
TOUPS’ MEATERY
Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com
UPTOWN
COSTERA
Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com
DAKAR NOLA
African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (Th-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com
LA PETITE GROCERY
French. An intimate bistro where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére
cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com
SABA
Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com
Art Galleries & Antiques
ANTIEAU GALLERY
Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com
CRAIG TRACY GALLERY
The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com
M.S. RAU ANTIQUES
This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com
Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com
Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com
VINTAGE 329
A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com
This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com
The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com
DIRTY COAST
Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com
The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide.
709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com
SHOE BE DO
Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com
Gifts & Collectibles
BUNGALOWS
This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items.
610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com
FLEURTY GIRL
These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items.
617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net
LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY
There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com
Attractions & Landmarks
ARMSTRONG PARK
Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.
N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2
AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM
This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org
Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com
A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org
America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org
The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans
Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com
The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street.Map 3, G5
Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding
destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com
Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org
This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org
The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org
This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org
One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon- 7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-6 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org
OGDEN MUSEUM
This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org
SAZERAC HOUSE
Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-4:15 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com
Cruises & Tours
CITY SIGHTSEEING
This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com
CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER
Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com
GATORS AND GHOSTS
This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com
GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS
Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com
Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com
STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ
The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com
NIGHTLIFE
Cocktails
BAR MARILOU
With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar biteS. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com
CHANDELIER BAR
The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans
LAFITTE’S
BLACKSMITH SHOP
This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com
PAT O’BRIEN’S
Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com
THE PENTHOUSE CLUB
This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com
SAZERAC BAR
Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com
BLUE NILE
This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com
HOUSE OF BLUES
The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com
THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE
This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com
PRESERVATION HALL
Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com
TIPITINA’S
The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com
AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4
AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5
AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4
AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4
BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4
LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3
BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5
BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5
BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5
BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4
CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6
CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4
CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3
CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7
DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3
CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4
DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3
DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5
DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4
EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5
EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7
FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4
FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6
FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5
HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4
HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5
HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8
HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6
HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6
HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4
HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7
HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7
SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4
FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5
HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3
HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3
HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5
HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4
HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3
HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5
HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6
LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4
MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4
PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5
PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5
SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4
SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3
HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4
HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7
HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3
IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4
IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5
JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4
JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2
LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5
LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5
LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6
LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4
LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6
MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5
MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3
MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4
MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7
ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4
90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4
NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4
OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3
OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7
OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4
OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6
PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5
PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4
PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4
QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5
RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6
PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4
RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6
RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4
RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3
RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5
RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4
RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4
RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4
SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5
ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5
SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7
VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4
WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4
WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5
WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5
WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6
WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4
WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4
The New Orleans Historic Train Garden, tucked within the Botanical Gardens at City Park (p. 23), features small-scale replicas of local landmarks created from all-natural materials.