Where Magazine New Orleans August 2023

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Way-Cool

Murals

Beer + Bites

Satchmo

Fest, White/ Dirty Linen

Night and More

Summertime Fun

VIBES CHILL

AUG 2023
NEW ORLEANS
SCREAM-WORTHY ICE CREAM
A New Orleans Tradition Available for private parties 622 Canal • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon www.cafebeignet.com
ART & EY&S SUMMER FUN! 3708 Magazine St. | 504-891-4494 ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com INDY EYEWEAR… LIKE NOWHERE ELSE DEFINITELY NOT YOUR SUNGLASSES HUT

SOUND + LIGHT EXPERIENCE

Expressions of America is an immersive, sound and light show that combines cutting-edge technology and special e ects with the real words and stories of everyday people who made a tremendous impact during a time of monumental con ict.

Tickets on sale now!

Tickets on sale now!

expressionsofamerica.org

HOW THE WAR THAT CHANGED THE WORLD CHANGED
LIVED IT. #1 ATTRACTION IN NEW ORLEANS #8 ATTRACTION IN THE UNITED STATES
QR code to reserve your tickets now at nationalww2museum.org
DISCOVER
THE PEOPLE WHO
Scan
Use
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Picasso Mr. Brainwash Jose Basso Rembrandt

How best to beat the August heat? Ice cream! ©CAVANIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK

The Bigger Picture

The city is full of magnificent murals. Grab your camera and go exploring.

Cold Beer, Cool Snacks

Summertime and the sippin’—and nibblin’— is easy.

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©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM
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TOP)
(2); ©PORT ORLEANS BREWING CO.
17 14 12
ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 06 Calendar 08 Maps 29 Parting Shot 32 THE GUIDE Dining 19 Shopping 20 Attractions 22 Entertainment 28 Nightlife 28
The scoop on New Orleans’ ice cream obsession.
C ONTENTS
AUG 2023
ON THE COVER

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org.

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Dutch Alley

Artist’s Co-op

As a New Orleans native, Carol Flannery is known for her Louisiana-themed jewelry and custom-designed stained glass. Her jewelry is inspired by the culture and the delicious cuisine down South. She incorporates sterling silver, dichroic and lamp-worked pieces in her collection. Carol has been with the Dutch Alley Artist’s Coop for over 15 years.

MARKET MERCH Killer

Seasoning’s special blend of herbs and spices is the perfect complement to delicious ripe tomatoes and more French Market produce. It’s also great on chicken and chili, salads and seafood, soup and scrambled eggs. From French fries to let mignon, you can truly...PUT IT ON YA EVERYTHING!!!

Getcha some at French Market Produce in the Farmers Market.

WHAT’S HAPPENING

August 19

Barbegazi Snoball Fight by the Krewe of Krampus

A day of icy fun and thrilling competition with some of New Orleans’ favorite krewes battling it out to see who has the best snoball avor!

September 16

Hispanic Heritage Festival

Join us for our Hispanic Heritage Month celebration featuring a full day of live music, Hispanic and Latino food booths and community organizations.

© ZACK SMITH
SPECIAL
ADVERTISING

It’s a question often posed this time of year: Why on earth would someone visit New Orleans during August? It is a valid one, given temperatures that generally reach the mid- to high-90s by noon and the late-afternoon deluges that accompany them, generating the trademark humidity the city is oh-so famous for. And, of course, there’s the possibility/likelihood of a disturbance in the Gulf, with Hurricane Katrina’s anniversary at month’s end still resonating 18 years out.

e answer is found in the lyrics of Louis Armstrong’s signature song— “Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?”—which served as an anthem for locals scattered around the country following Katrina. If you know, you know. ere’s simply no other place like it, no matter the month.

I moved to New Orleans in August 2001, the same year Satchmo SummerFest, celebrating Armstrong’s birthday (Aug. 4), debuted. Friends at the time questioned my sanity, but having visited here the prior summer, I was prepared for the heat and solidly smitten—not unlike the faithful festgoers who return each August to sweat it on the grounds of the Old U.S. Mint in honor of the late jazz great. If you know, you know.

Satchmo Fest, White and Dirty Linen Nights, the Red Dress Run, Saints home games, hot dining deals: ere’s lots of cool things to indulge in during August, despite the heat. To paraphrase Pops—what a wonderful month!

201 R OYAL S TREET ~ F RENCH Q UARTER ~ N EW O RLEANS 504-523-2078 ~ www.mrbsbistro.com
Brennan
NOTE 2023 AUGUST
Cindy
EDITOR’S
THE 6 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023
@whereneworleans

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Terri Simon

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901

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Michelle Rowe

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS COMPANY, LLC

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William S. Morris III CEO Craig S. Mitchell

©2023 by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in the publication, including any errors or omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

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THE ST. LOUIS GARDEN Silkscreen Designed by George Rodrigue in 2011 and Printed in 2023 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 37 x 15 inches 730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) www.GeorgeRodrigue.com New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244 Mon - Sat: 11:am - 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm Mon - Sat: 11:00am - 5:00pm

COOLINARY NEW ORLEANS ALL MONTH

Can’t take the heat? Then stay out of the kitchen and dig into these specially priced prix- xe menus at restaurants citywide. neworleans.com/ coolinary/

SATCHMO SUMMERFEST

AUGUST 5-6

e trademark trumpet, and waving white handkerchief, the twinkling eyes and signature smile: All things Armstrong—the late great Louis Armstrong— are celebrated during the free Satchmo SummerFest at the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint. Dozens of performers pay tribute to “Pops” on two outdoor stages, while jazz scholars and Armstrong experts conduct discussions inside. For a full lineup of acts and events, visit satchmosummerfest.org.

FASHIONING AMERICA: GRIT TO GLAMOUR ALL MONTH

The New Orleans Museum of Art morphs into a mini Met Gala with this salute to the garment industry, showcasing more than 100 U.S. designers and labels. noma.org

8 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST2023 
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©SAM HANNA PHOTOGRAPHY; ©EDWARD
SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM
C. ROBINSON III/NOMA; ©ZACK TUJAGUE’S, PART OF COOLINARY N.O.
CALENDAR 2023 AUGUST THE
DEACON JOHN MOORE PERFORMING AT SATCHMO SUMMERFEST “FASHIONING AMERICA”

TOP STOPS

AUGUST 5 & 12

Art lovers dressed in their breezy best swarm Julia Street on White Linen Night, when galleries between the 300 and 600 blocks (and along adjacent side streets) mount new exhibits while serving up cool sips, nibbles and live entertainment, from 5 to 10 pm. e following week brings Dirty Linen (get it?), with a decidedly funkier atmosphere, between the 300 and 1100 blocks of Royal Street. artsdistrictneworleans.com; dirtylinen.org

GREAT THINGS

Tipitina’s Free Fridays

August 4, 11, 18 & 25

The free summertime concert series continues with the Brass-A-Holics (Aug. 4), the Honey Island Swamp Band (Aug. 11), Billy Iuso (Aug. 18) and Raw Deal: A Tribute to Earth, Wind & Fire (Aug. 25). tipitinas.com

NOLA Pickleball Fest

August 10-13

Drew Brees moves from the football eld to the pickleball court with this foundation fundraiser, featuring three divisions of round-robin play on 24

courts, live music and a celebrity match at the Convention Center. nolapickle fest.com

Red Dress Run

August 12

This “drinking club with a running problem” hits the streets at 11:30 am, starting at Crescent Park along the riverfront. The race is usually over by noon, but you’ll spot crimson-attired stragglers stumbling around the French Quarter way into the wee hours. Consider yourself warned. nolareddress.com

New Orleans Saints

August 13 & 27

New quarterback Derek Carr faces off against reigning Super Bowl champ Patrick Mahomes and the Kansas City Chiefs in the Saints’ preseason opener, before tackling the Houston Texans at month’s end. caesarssuperdome.com

Counting Crows

August 18

WHITE/DIRTY LINEN NIGHT 7

Adam Duritz and company pull into town on thier Banshee Season Tour, joined by Dashboard Confessional. saengernola.com

Barbegazi Snoball Fight

August 19

The way-cool (and frightfully fun) Krewe of Krampus, which parades in December, heralds the end of summer with a snoball showdown at the French Market. kreweofkrampus.com

Southern Decadence

August 31-Sept. 4

Labor Day weekend brings thousands of revelers for the South’s largest LGBTQ+ gathering. The highlight of the four-day, non-stop party is a foot parade through the Quarter. southern decadence.net; southern decadenceparade.com

Champions Square

Aug. 23: 3 Doors Down. champions-square.com

Civic Theatre

Aug. 24: Please Don’t Destroy. civicnola.com

House of Blues

Aug. 3: Leela James; Aug. 5: Black Flag; Aug. 11: Jimmie Vaughn; Aug. 25: Blessthefall. hob.com

Joy Theater

Aug. 1: Jidenna; Aug. 3: Tim Heidecker; Aug. 5: Killer Mike; Aug. 22: Jpegma a with Danny Brown; Aug. 23: Weyes Blood. thejoytheater.com

Mahalia Jackson Theater

Aug. 4: Bored Teachers Comedy Tour. mahalia jacksontheater.com

Orpheum Theatre

Aug. 8: The Ghost Inside and Underoath; Aug. 17: Lyle Lovett; Aug. 22: Brent Faijaz. orpheumnola.net

Saenger Theater

Aug. 18: Counting Crows with Dashboard Confessional; Aug. 25: Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. saengernola.com

Smoothie King Center

Aug. 22: Lil Durk; Aug. 31: Christian Nodal. smoothiekingcenter.com

Toulouse Theatre

Aug. 2: Horsegirl with Lifeguard; Aug. 11: KPOP Club Night; Aug. 19: Bay Ledges. toulousetheatre.com

9  (FROM LEFT) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER
ENTERTAINMENT
BARBEGAZI SNOBALL FIGHTWHITE LINEN NIGHT
HAUNTED HISTORY ! TOURS “The #1 Tour Company in New Orleans” - A MUST DO!” - Travel Channel Ghost • Voodoo • Vampire • Cemetery Pub Crawl • French Quarter • Garden District HauntedHistoryTours.com 504-861-2727 Book Your Tours Today! MULTIPLE DAILY & NIGHTLY TOURS THESE are the tours you’ve heard about!

Crescent City Cool

Scooped, rolled, cupped or coned—New Orleans’ ice cream obsession traces back generations Terri Simon

It’s no secret that Sicilians made major contributions to southern Louisiana culture and cuisine. There’s the region’s unique version of marinara sauce—or “red gravy”—and the cured meat-and-olive salad specialty sandwich known as the muffaletta. These Creole-Italian classics trace their roots to the late 1800s. Political and economic strife at home led many Sicilians to look for opportunity abroad; they found it in Louisiana. By the 1880s, three steamships a month were ferrying Sicilians to New Orleans. So many settled in the downriver side of the French Quarter that the neighborhood earned the nickname “Little Palermo.”

Among the new arrivals was Angelo Brocato. A native of Cefalu, Brocato apprenticed in pastry and gelato shops in the old country and brought his craft with him to the Crescent City, where locals soon fell in love with his traditional Sicilian treats. After his death in 1946, the Brocato family kept his legacy—and business—alive. Today’s Angelo Brocato’s, at 214 N. Carrollton Avenue in the

Mid-City neighborhood (504.486.0078), still serves classic gelati and spumoni, along with the family’s most famous frozen treat: lemon Italian ice.

In the 100-plus years since frosty Sicilian fare took New Orleans by storm, the city’s ice cream landscape has greatly expanded. Here are just a few of locals’ favorite places for ice cream and other sweet treats to beat the summer heat.

THE CREOLE CREAMERY

This 1950s-style ice cream parlor serves plain scoops as well as sundaes, splits, malts and Italian sodas. Its wide variety of avors, all made in house, include Café au Lait and Creole Cream Cheese, in addition to a rotating roster of seasonal options such as Magnolia Flower and Golden Summer Fig. Its menu also includes sherbets and dairy-free sorbets. Can’t decide on just one? Try a miniscoop sampler.

12 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023  (FROM LEFT) ©SWEET
SAINT; ©CHERYL GERBER
4924 PRYTANIA ST., 504.894.8680
WHERE NOW NEW
ORLEANS
FROM LEFT: SWEET SAINT AND THE CREOLE CREAMERY

SWEET SAINT

At this French Quarter gem, classic avors are updated and reimagined. The result is complex combinations that are both familiar and totally new. An infusion of jasmine ower turns plain vanilla into Fleur de VaNola, while Steen’s cane syrup and brioche crumbles transforms Creole cream cheese into The St. Pierre. The Marigny marries cucumber and sweet basil in a vegan sorbet so refreshing you might nd yourself coming back for seconds…or thirds.

710 ST. LOUIS ST., 504.345.8085

STOP JOCKIN SNOBALLS

Purveyors of New Orleans’ famous summertime snack that offer “stuffed” snoballs—with a layer of

ice cream hidden in the syrup-covered shaved ice—aren’t rare. What makes this off-the-beaten-path spot deep in the 7th Ward unique is that its snoballs are stuffed with a scoop of real vanilla ice cream, not soft-serve. Along with snoball-stand standards like hot dogs and burgers, Stop Jockin’s food menu includes options like shrimp nachos and craw sh fries.

3600 ST. BERNARD AVE., 504.206.0992

ROULÉ ROLLED

At Roulé Rolled, ice cream isn’t scooped, it’s rolled in a style that was first popularized in Thailand. Flavored cream is poured onto a freezing-cold plate and transformed into ice cream as you watch. Its expansive menu of flavors (includ -

ing dairy- and sugar-free options), mix-ins, toppings and sauces mean s there’s something for everyone at this Westbank destination.

401 HUEY P. LONG AVE., GRETNA, 504.619.9797

DRIP AFFOGATO BAR

This Warehouse District space has a distinctly grown-up vibe. In addition to frozen fare, Drip serves light bites, such as charcuterie and crostini, and specialty cocktails in a decadent lounge setting. Specializing in affogato—ice cream or gelato with espresso dripped over—this dessert bar’s menu of small-batch avors is always changing, but consistently delicious.

703 CARONDELET ST., #101, 504.309.3291

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FROM LEFT) ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©ROULÉ ROLLED; ©STOP JOCKIN SNOBALLS; ©CHERYL GERBER
Where Now
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: DRIP AFFOGATO BAR, ROULÉ ROLLED, STOP JOCKIN SNOBALLS AND ANGELO BROCATO'S SPUMONI

The BIGGER PICTURE

Mural, mural on the wall, which is the coolest of them all? Judge for yourself.

They’re everywhere, from the Central Business District, where a 150-foot-tall depiction of jazz pioneer Sidney Bechet’s clarinet scales the side of the Holiday Inn on Loyola Avenue, to the Lower Garden District, where an oversized “Greetings From NOLA” postcard at Magazine and Josephine streets all but screams for a sel e. North Rampart Street, St. Claude Avenue, the Claiborne Avenue I-10 overpass, the Tchoupitoulas Street oodwall,

Uptown, downtown, Mid-City, Central City—murals are having a moment in New Orleans.

It’s nothing new, really, public art has long been a draw for Crescent City visitors; take Xavier Gonzalez’s WPA-era aviation-themed murals at Lakefront Airport, for instance, or Conrad Albrizio’s 1950s Louisiana history frescos lining Union Passenger Terminal. But recent years have witnessed a proliferation of new, larger-than-life works sprouting up all around town, thanks to

initiatives such as the NOLA Mural Project (nolamuralproject.org) and the Arts Council of New Orleans’ “Unframed” series (artsneworleans. org), as well as attention-grabbing local talents like Brandan “BMike” Odums (bmike.co), whose empowering street art is found citywide and has been commissioned elsewhere around the nation.

Grab your smartphone and set o on a self-guided tour of Instaready art. You’ll spot something at almost every turn.

14 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023  ©SHAWN FINK
WHERE
NEW ORLEANS
NOW
15  (RIGHT) ©JUSTEN WILLIAMS/NEWORLEANS.COM
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: FRENCH STREET ARTIST MTO’S “GASA GASA IN NOLA” AT 4920 FRERET STREET, SASAH KOPFLER’S DECPICTION OF BOUNCE SUPERSTAR BIG FREEDIA AT 2231 ST. CLAUDE AVENUE AND MTO’S TRIBUTE TO THE LATE MUSICIAN DR. JOHN AT 3223 DRYADES STREET
16 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023  (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM (2); ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©JUSTEN WILLIAMS/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CRISTA ROCK
Where Now
“Recent years have witnessed a proliferation of new, larger-than-life works sprouting up all around town.”
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THE ASHÉ CULTURAL CENTER AT 1712 ORETHA CASTLE HALEY BOULEVARD, “RISE & PRESERVE” AT CHARTRES AND PIETY, PATRICK MAXCY’S NEW 10,000-SQUARE-FOOT WORK AT THE AUDUBON AQUARIUM (CANAL STREET AT THE RIVER), ENGLISH STREET-ART LEGEND BANKSY’S “THE UMBRELLA GIRL” AT NORTH RAMPART AND KERLEREC AND “UNTITLED,” BY MOMO, ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE OGDEN MUSEUM AT 925 CAMP STREET

Cold Beer, Cool Snacks

1MUKBANG

ere is a Vietnamese food-and-drink tradition called “quán nhâu” that roughly translates to “beer-drinking food.” Mukbang has an entire menu dedicated to this practice. After hitting the shops along Oak Street, pop into this cute, upbeat spot for rounds of chilled Saigon beer and platters of shareable street foods. Order this: Bánh Khot (bite-sized, crispy coconutand-rice our cups topped with shrimp, chopped scallion and bits of pickled carrot); steamed clams (with Vietnamese French bread) in dunkable, drinkable aromatic lemongrass broth; spicy grilled squid; and Nem Nuong (grilled pork meat patties on green onion skewers).

8312 OAK ST., 504.345.2695

2LIUZZA’S RESTAURANT & BAR

Following a stroll or a roll (by bike) along the La tte Greenway, the move is a Mid-City stop at this New Orleans classic. Here, enormous schooners of draft beer appear like magical, cooling crystal balls, a perfect partner to big onion rings, fried deep

golden. Dunk rings in the local passion for ketchup showered with black pepper, then consider adding these treats to the table: a cup of red beans and rice, fresh-cut French fries (the absolute gold standard) or Eggplant Medallions with red gravy.

3636 BIENVILLE ST., 504.482.9120

3

PORT ORLEANS BREWING CO.

You’ve hit the zoo and done some shopping damage on Magazine Street—nice work. Port Orleans is a great nearby respite. Part brewery, part restaurant and all fun, it’s perfectly kid-friendly (side yard with room to play), while the adults go for ights or pints of house-brewed beers on tap, and everyone can tuck into easy bites from food partner Avo Taco. ink guac, nachos and tacos with loads of meat and veg options. We’re partial to the guacamole with caramelized pineapple, bacon and cotija cheese, the Carnitas Nachos and Bu alo Soldier tacos with sriracha-coconut chicken, slaw and blue cheese sauce.

17  (FROM TOP) ©LORIN GAUDIN; ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©PORT ORLEANS BREWING CO.
1 2 3
4124 TCHOUPITOULAS ST., 504.266.2332 Grab some pals (or your fam) for late-afternoon bites and an ice-cold beverage. We’re thinking beer, but you do you, boo. LORIN GAUDIN

OVER THE MOON

Tartines from Flour Moon Bagels (p. 20), named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit. As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change.

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.
 ©EMILY FERRETTI GUIDE THE OUR FAVORITES

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

DOMENICA

Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus.

D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple

seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

POKE LOA

Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174.

Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993.

Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com

French Quarter

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711.

Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St.,

504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

MAMOU

French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red bean cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parsley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

MR.

B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its

deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine

19
THE GUIDE Dining

DINING/SHOPPING

St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. This long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates or full-on entrees, such as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

N7

French. This tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California

cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny

St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

FLOUR MOON BAGELS

Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the must-get here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and openfaced tartines. B, L (Th-Tu).

457 N. Dergenois St. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

UPTOWN

COSTERA

Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (Th-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére

cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

SABA

Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Clothing, Hats, Shoes & Accessories

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

DIRTY COAST

Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide.

20 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023

709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items.

610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items.

617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM

This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org

22 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023
SHOPPING/ATTRACTIONS
KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731 Killer Poboys @ Erin Rose Bar 811 Conti St

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street.Map 3, G5

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding

23
THE GUIDE
Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm Front Back 610 Chartres Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504.522.9222
Attractions
WHERE! SAVE $3 Hop-On Hop-Off Garden District Central Business District French Quarter Super Dome Louis Armstrong Park St. Louis Cathedral St. Louis No. 1 Cemetery Visitor Center LOUISIANA AVE. ST. CHARLES AVE. POYDRAS RAMPART ST. CANAL ST. JACKSON AVE. DECATU BASIN ST. Harrah’s CASINO Arts District 9:45am 1st Dep. St. Charles Avenue Departures: 11, 12, 1, 2, 3pm Garden District WALKING TOUR Garden District Magazine St. @ Washington Ave. GDWT Only $25 Magazine Street Boutique Shopping Local Eateries World War II Museum The National 9:30am 1st Dep. Basin St. Station P 501 Basin Street Open 8:30am 5:30pm Public Parking Convenient Affordable 10hr - 24hr Canal Street Sheraton 9:35am 1st Dep. ch Tremé Marigny/Bywater Frenchmen St. French Market Departures: 11, 12, 1, 2, 3pm FQWT Only $25 French Quarter Jackson Square Ticket Office & Sightseeing Shop 700 Decautur St. Open 9am - 5pm WALKING TOUR 19 18 17 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 16 Jackson Square 9:30am 1st Dep. Hop-On Hop-Off Buy Tickets Online: CitySightseeingNewOrleans.com 800.362.1811 - 504.207.6200 ST. LOUIS CEMETERY NO. 1 OFFICIAL TOUR Frequent Tour Departures | 9:00am to 3:45pm Space is Limited | Reserve Online 504-777-3027 I 800-368-1789 Journey through the City of the Dead www.CemeteryTourNewOrleans.com Save with PromoCode: Est1789
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION S.PETERS IBERVILLE S. RAMPART UNIVERSITY PL. BARONNE CARONDELET ST CHARLES Canal Place Shopping MAGAZINE POYDRAS JULIA TCHOUPITOULAS PERDIDO UNION COMMON GRAVIER NATCHEZ DECATUR CHARTRES ROYAL BOURBON DAUPHINE BURGUNDY N. RAMPART BIENVILLE CONTI ST LOUIS TOULOUSE N. PETERS Jackson Brewery 200300400500 RIVERFRONTSTREETCARSteamboat Natchez Gray Line Tour Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park Algiers Ferry EXCHANGE ALLEY CANAL 100 CAMP O'KEEFE DORSIERE LOYOLA Riverwalk Insecterium 4 5 6 Vieux Carré Police Station HermannGrima House Louisiana Superdome Historic N.O. Collection Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Theatre Harrah’s Casino Creole Queen Ernest N. Morial Convention Center RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS Esplanade Ursulines Dumaine Toulouse Bienville Canal 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 1 2 2 4
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION ESPLANADE ST PETER ORLEANS ST ANN DUMAINE ST . PHILIP URSULINES GO V. NICHOLLS French Market Gov. NichollsSt.Wharf Brewery 600700 8009001000 1100 TCAR CHARTRES ROYAL DAUPHINE BURGUNDY ELYSIANFIELDS FRENCHMEN TOURO PAUGER ST.ANTHONY KERLEREC MOONWALK 1000 900800700600500 ESPLANADE Steamboat Natchez DECATUR Mississippi River BARRACKS 1200 MADISON Pe destrian Mall Pe destrian Mall Flea Market Washington Square Park American Aquatic Garden DECATUR A CHARTRES RO YAL BOURBON DAUPHINE BURGUNDY RAMPART WILKINSON ROW 1 2 3 Jackson Square La tte's Blacksmith Shop Ursuline Convent BeauregardKeyes House Madame John's Legacy Gallier House Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park FRENCH QUAR TER Historic Algiers Point PIRATE’S ALLEY PERE ANTOINE ALLEY N.O. Jazz Museum/ Old U.S. Mint VINTAGE CHANEL® 329 Royal St, New Orleans 504.525.2262 WWW.VINTAGE329.COM 5 3 1 SCAN FOR RESERVATIONS 125 BOURBON STREET DINE IN. TAKE OUT. DELIVERY. 5 1 3 4

ATTRACTIONS/ENTERTAINMENT/NIGHTLIFE

destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

Museums

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon- 7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-6 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

OGDEN MUSEUM

OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-4:15 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE

Cocktails

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar biteS. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

LAFITTE’S

BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

Live Entertainment

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

28 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023

MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

29 THE GUIDE
Maps
NEW ORLEANS
Paris Rd Downman Rd TERRYTOWN Gretna 10 510 10 10 10 10 610 1 mi 2 km 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 A B C D E F G A B C D E F G Lake Pontchartrain Lake Maurepas Gulf of Mexico Gulf of Mexico Atchafalaya Bay Vermilion Bay Cailou Bay Terrebonne Bay Barataria Bay Abita Springs Folsom Grand Isle Lafitte Napoleonville Buras-Triumph Port Sulphur Covington Franklin Mandeville Plaquemine Houma New Iberia Slidell Abbeville Baker Hammond Laplace Thibodaux Metairie Kenner Lafayette New Orleans Baton Rouge Crowley Eunice Opelousas Venice Raceland 1 1 1 1 1 1 10 13 13 13 14 14 14 14 16 16 18 18 18 182 182 19 20 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 25 26 26 27 29 30 31 3127 35 35 39 41 56 57 70 82 82 91 165 165 167 167 190 190 190 190 190 51 61 61 61 71 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 10 mi 10 km 10 10 10 10 10 10 49 55 55 12 10 59 12 310 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 A B C D E F G A B C D E F G

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

NEW ORLEANS MAP NEW ORLEANS Wilkinson Cancer Survivors Park Champions Square HG HA HP RE EB RA HF SJ DT ST QC RC SC BL LH IC HI AC HT BI LP DR VH RO WG HD IN LQ PL EJ WC WO OE WQ BW WH JW HW PM RZ AS WQ ML MD SM FP OO OV MA RS PC HF HC CO DO DI LM MR BH FI CM LE LW HR HL FS CN MW SH OR HY AH MZ RH HS NO CA JU HE HH St Cathedral National WWII Museum Caesars Superdome Smoothie King Center Civic Theatre Joy Theater Orpheum Theater Canal St Ferry Landing CanalStFerry La. Supreme Court Building Canal Place Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage Poydras St. Wharf Girod St. Wharf New Orleans International Cruise Terminal Toulouse St. Wharf LSU Health Sciences Center Riverwalk Outlets Riverfront Streetcar Line St.CharlesStreetcarLine Canal Streetcar Line LoyolaStreetcarLine Rampart Streetcar Line 10 N.O. Pelicans 1/8 mi 200 m 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 A B C D E F G 8 A B C D E F G
30 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

THE GUIDE 31 Maps SpainSt StRochAveFranklinAve RoyalSt DauphineStBurgundySt NRampartSt MaraisSt UrquartStNVillerreStNRobertsonSt StClaudeAve Madison Crescent Park PD BO 90 AJ CY CL HQ PP PV LK HM FR SP FS RF  Louis Cathedral N.O. Jazz Museum/ Old U.S. Mint BK Historic House French Market Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf Riverfront Streetcar Line 10 Street Direction French Quarter HM Hotel KEY Jazzy Passes 1 day - $3 3 day - $9 31 day - 55 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as much as you’d like. Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25 Transit Routes H I J 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 H I J K K

PARTING SHOT

Naturally N’awlins

The New Orleans Historic Train Garden, tucked within the Botanical Gardens at City Park (p. 23), features small-scale replicas of local landmarks created from all-natural materials.

32 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS AUGUST 2023  ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM
CHANEL vintage collection 329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262 | WWW.VINTAGE329.COM Follow us shopvintage329

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