Where Magazine New Orleans December 2023 by Morris Media Network

NEW ORLEANS DEC 2023

NOLA Christmas Fest, Luna Fête, Bonfires and More Holiday Happenings What’s New and Noshable

MERRY & BRIGHT FESTIVE LIGHTING SHOPS TO PUT ON YOUR LIST

Available for private parties A New Orleans Tradition 622 Canal • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

www.cafebeignet.com

Visit The

BEVOLO LIGHTING MUSEUM on Exchange Alley • 316 Royal St.

Watch how Generations of Craftsmen have built THE ORIGINAL FRENCH QUARTER LANTERN TM

bevolo.com • 504-522-9485 • 521 Conti • 304 • 316 • 318 Royal • French Quarter • New Orleans

12 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

STOREWIDE SALE!! ALL frames on floor 20, 30, 40, & 50% OFF

ART & EY&S I N DY E Y E W E A R … LIKE NOWHERE ELSE 3708 Magazine St. | 504-891-4494 ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com

From Thanksgiving to Christmas Eve, 11/24 thru 12/24

Picasso

Jose Basso

Mr. Brainwash

Rembrandt

VINTAGE CHANEL Miriam Haskell • Dior • Hermes • YSL • Bakelite • Trifari • Taxco Sterling Silver • Designer handbags • Vintage Barware • Original Lithograph Posters • Vintage Sunglasses • mEMENTO mORI

329 Royal St, New Orleans • 504.525.2262 • WWW.VINTAGE329.COM

#1 Attraction in New Orleans

Explore how the war continues to impact our lives today through this three-story exhibit hall highlighting

the end of World War II, The Holocaust, and The Postwar Years

THE NEW LIBERATION PAVILION

Featuring exhibits on the Holocaust, Anne Frank, the Monuments Men and Women, the postwar campaign for freedom and human rights. Don't miss the new Freedom Theater experience!

New SPECIAL EXHIBITION

yle and tion the Ga nda ted by le Fou b ta ri presen a Ch enson Tom B

on the 350,000 American women who served their country in World War II

CONTENTS

12 Lighten up! From flickering gas lanterns to bold neon creations, nine bright spots to seek out.

DEC 2023

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Calendar 10 Maps 37 Parting Shot 40

14 Holly Jolly Fun

A month full of merriment, Santa sightings and holiday happenings.

ON THE

COVER

Hot Dish Prosciutto-topped pizza, shrimp-crab-andmushroom toast, red velvet waffles—yes, yes and yes, please!

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Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights’ Vintage Lamp Showroom at 304 Royal Street. ©BRITTNEE ULMER

(FROM TOP) ©BIG SEXY NEON; ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CHRIS HAGAN

THE GUIDE Dining 21 Shopping 27 Attractions 31 Entertainment 33 Nightlife 36

SP E C I A L A DV E RT IS IN G

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

ong before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. The nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, flea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the first apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of offerings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org. © ZACK SMITH

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op member Christopher Kirsch is an accomplished printmaker, papier-mâché sculptor, painter and photographer born and raised in New Orleans. His love for the history, cultural traditions and beauty of his native Louisiana is evident in his career as an artist, which began as a self-taught painter and eventually evolved into his true calling, printmaking.

MARKET MERCH Raw clay from the clay locker is handshaped to create Joy Gauss’ “Story Pottery” art. Gauss says it’s fun creating different themes and narratives out of clay shapes. The raku process can create deep matte blacks, so the contrast to Gauss’ hand-painted white bones details the characters in her “Bone Gang” series. You’ll find her works at the Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op.

WHAT’S HAPPENING December 2 St. Nick Celebration Kick off the holiday season in the French Market District with the annual St. Nick Celebration along Dutch Alley, featuring live music, kid’s activities and the Children’s Hospital New Orleans Holiday Parade. Attendees will also have the opportunity to have a photo taken with seasonal charters, including Santa, Rudolph and the Grinch!

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2023

DECEMBER

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

’T

is the season to be jolly, and there’s lots to fa-la-la about is this issue—from the NOLA Holiday Parade, which kicks off the festive fun at the beginning of the month to the Allstate Sugar Bowl New Year’s Parade at its end. In between, you’ll find a jampacked lineup of holiday happenings, both traditional (Caroling in Jackson Square) and not-so (the Fleur de Tease Holiday Revue). There’s Handel’s “Messiah” and the Skivvies’ (who perform in their undies) “Best in Snow,” old-fashioned holiday home tours and a newfangled “Nutcracker,” blazing bonfires along the river and the Luna Fête festival of light, art and technology. To mark Luna Fête’s 10-year milestone, elsewhere we spotlight a few of our favorite lighting stores around the city. From fl ickering French Quarter gas lanterns and mid-century modern lamps to elegant Uptown designer collections and cool statement-making neon, there are bright ideas for just about everyone on your holiday gift list. And what’s the holidays without a little (OK, a lot of) overindulgence? Might we interest you in red velvet waffles loaded with fruit, chocolate chips and cream cheese, decadent shrimp-crab-and-mushroom toast, wood-fired oysters or a hulking 24-ounce ribeye? Gregory Porter, George Clinton, Billy Strings, Saints and Pelicans home games, ice skating at the Convention Center, fireworks over the Mississippi: Grab an eggnog and make merry!

C i n dy Bre nn a n 8

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201 ROYAL STREET ~ FRENCH QUARTER ~ NEW ORLEANS 504-523- 2 0 7 8 ~ w w w .m rb sb i st ro .co m

DECEMBER 2023

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CRESCENT CITY

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BREWHOUSE

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com EDITOR

Doug Brantley ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Terri Simon ACCOUNT MANAGER

Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

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NOLA CHRISTMAS FEST TOP STOPS

ENTERTAINMENT

WHAT’S HAPPENING

THE LINEUP

8 GREAT THINGS New Orleans Pelicans Throughout the Month The Pels hit the Smoothie King Center court seven times during December, bookended by the San Antonio Spurs Dec. 1 and Los Angeles Lakers Dec. 31. For a full schedule, visit smoothiekingcenter.com. Improvisations Gala Dec. 2 This futuristic-themed New Orleans Jazz Museum fundraiser offers a stellar live entertainment lineup, including Parliament Funkadelic’s George Clinton. Gotta have that funk. nolajazzmuseum.org New Orleans Saints Dec. 3, 10 & 17 The Black and Gold gift fans with three home games this month, taking on the Detroit Lions Dec. 3, the Carolina Panthers Dec. 10 and the New York Giants Dec. 17. caesarssuperdome.com

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DECEMBER 21-30 Ice skating in New Orleans? Yes, Virginia, and there’s ice tubing, too! Add bocce on ice, a 50-foot-tall gondola, a classic carousel and close to 300,000-square-feet of carnival rides, and you’ll understand why families flock to this Convention Center winter wonderland. The holiday-themed funhouse features a giant tree and gingerbread displays, a Tiny Tot Zone and, for the adults in the room, a Polar Pub. You’ll also find daily live performances and hands-on activities, such as cookie decorating, in addition special events like Skating with Santa. nolachristmasfest.com

CIVIC THEATRE Dec. 1: Ilana Glazer; Dec. 8: Pod Meets World. civicnola.com

JOY THEATER Dec. 15: Stephen Sanchez; Dec. 29: Little Feat. thejoytheater.com LE PETIT THEATRE Dec. 20-21: The Skivvies: “Best in Snow.” lepetittheatre.com MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Dec. 1: Lisette Oropesa; Dec. 9: John Mulaney. mahaliajacksontheater.com

NOLA CHRISTMAS FEST

“WICKED”

Running of the Santas Dec. 9 Hark! The cacophony of rowdy reindeer rising from the Warehouse District? That would be “the world’s naughtiest pub crawl,” which kicks off from Manning’s at 6 pm. runningof thesantas.com

Harry Shearer’s (“The Simpsons”) “reverent and irreverent” holiday hoedown is an annual must-catch. orpheumnola.net

Wicked Through Dec. 17 The traveling, Tony-winning musical revisits the Land of Oz before Dorothy and Toto drop in. Catch it at the Saenger before it flies off. saengernola.com Christmas Without Tears Dec. 19 Singer-songwriter Judith Owen and her comic husband

Gregory Porter Dec. 20 The double Grammy-winning jazz vocalist pulls into the Saenger in support of his new holiday album “Christmas Wish.” saengernola.com Allstate Sugar Bowl New Year’s Parade Dec. 31 Get your countdown party started early with this 3 pm procession through the French Quarter. Then stick around until midnight to catch the fleur-de-lis drop. allstatesugarbowl.org

ORPHEUM THEATER Dec. 2: LPO Holiday Spectacular; Dec. 3: “A Charlie Brown Christmas”; Dec. 8: Handel’s “Messiah”; Dec. 10: “Dirty Dancing” in Concert; Dec. 17: Samara Joy. orpheumnola.net SAENGER THEATRE Dec. 22-23: “Elf” in Concert; Dec. 27: Mannhiem Steamroller Christmas. saengernola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Dec. 2: 85 South; Dec. 12: Rod Wave; Dec. 13: Trans-Siberian Orchestra. smoothiekingcenter.com TOULOUSE THEATRE Dec. 15: Leyla McCalla; Dec. 16: Fleur de Tease Holiday Revue; Dec. 30: Iko Allstars. toulousetheatre.com UNO LAKEFRONT ARENA Dec. 29-31: Billy Strings. arena.uno.edu

DECEMBER 2023

(FROM LEFT) ©NOLA CHRISTMASFEST; ©JOAN MARCUS

CALENDAR

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THE

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

ABOVE: BEVOLO'S VINTAGE LAMP SHOWROOM; OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: TARA SHAW, BIG SEXY NEON, FISCHER-GAMBINO, TYLER + TATE AND VILLA VICI

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hen it comes to lights and lighting, New Orleans always has been totally plugged-in…one way or another. Long ago, the city was entirely lit by flame. Oil-burning street lanterns, handheld torches, lamps, candles and coal-burning fireplaces all fired up the night with lovely—albeit dim—light. Around the mid 19th century, there was some bright progress when French Quarter streets were gas-lit by solderediron streetlights reminiscent of the lamps dangling from ships harbored along the Mississippi River. Despite the peoples’ desire for more and better street lighting, it is said that frugal public officials required “lights out” when the moon was full. Thus, New Orleans garnered her reputation for being a bit weather-worn, moody, shadowed and dark. Later, doorways and streets were hung with electrified lamps made of copper and rivets, the brilliant creations of Bevolo company

LORIN GAUDIN

founders, metallurgist Andrew Bevolo, Sr. and architect A. Hays Town, who crafted what is the original—and now iconic—French Quarter lamp. Today, lights and lighting are having quite a moment. Across the city there are incredible artisans, studios and shops dedicated to the art of light as decoration, messaging and, of course, lighting the way. Lovers of lighting history and nostalgia will get a jolt from the four French Quarter locations of Bevolo (bevolo. com): the Design Showroom, Interior Collection, Gas Light Museum & Shop and Vintage Lamp Showroom. At each place, the collections are astounding. No moment in local lighting history is missed, and the lamps themselves are beautiful. Chandeliers, sconces, exterior lights and table lamps cover each shop, floor to ceiling. The challenge comes in choosing, and it all hinges on interior versus exterior. Plan to take time, there’s a lot of historical

DECEMBER 2023

©BRITTNEE ULMER/BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

Looking to liven up your home décor? Light this way.

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Bright Ideas

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©TARA SHAW; ©BIG SEXY NEON; ©DOUG BRANTLEY; TYLER + TATE; ©VILLA VICI

Where Now

ground to cover and a lot to soak in. The Vintage Showroom is packed with colorful 1950s- and ’60s-era painted drum shades. When it comes to interior design, the range of style is enormous, and there is a shop, design and variety for everyone. Tyler + Tate’s lifestyle store (tylerandtate. com) vibes contemporary home, with lots of brass and glass, stylish ceramic bases and ikat-print, pleated fabric shades. There are loads of artistic expression pieces, including charming Murano glass mushroom lamps. And be sure to check out the clever and inspiring window displays, which recently featured hilarious lampshade-clad mannequins. Nearby, Tara Shaw (tarashaw.com), another comprehensive lifestyle shop, carries a collection of perfectly imperfect lighting that combines antiquity, mid-century and contemporary design. Evidence the painted-tin wall sconces or Swedish artist Erik Höglund’s showstopping

chandeliers hung with face- and fish-stamped bubbled glass discs. Another Magazine Street design lighting treasure, Villa Vici (villavici.com) leans contemporary with a striking collection of floor and pendant lamps in mediums ranging from ceramic to woven rattan, glass to metals. There is an impeccable, over-the-top white-feather floor lamp worth spying and buying. Fischer-Gambino’s two French Quarter shops (lightingneworleans. com) are fixtures for traditional and trendy lighting. Quirky and unique accent lamps are the draw here. It’s all about dragons, elephants, monkeys and other creatures holding lighted parasols and lanterns. Humor and light are a big “yes.” Pop over to Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard for some Big Sexy Neon (bigsexyneon.work). Neon artist, teacher, designer and all-around guru Nate Sheaffer has been at his craft—and tops

at it—for more than 30 years. His atrium-ceilinged studio is filled with pieces that bear his distinctive mark for adding brightly colored neon words to found objects, sculptures and painted canvases. Dedicated to preserving and showcasing the art of neon tube-bending, Sheaffer offers workshops, and rents out his studio space for events. Get your Mardi Gras on with a bright purple, green and gold neon fleur-de-lis. Or go for a lighted quip, quote, embellished piece of canvas art, something abstract or animated, funky or fun. There’s a bit of everything, and it’s all fantastic. New Orleans has a long tradition for lighting the way on things useful, cultural and visual. Here, light is art, form and function. From shopping the lamps of old (and new) to hitting this month’s 10th annual Luna Fête (lunafete. com), a three-day, mixed-media event of light, color, art and music—get lit, New Orleans style.

Where Now

HOLLY JOLLY FUN Where to get your jingle on

RIGHT THIS VERY MINUTE

The lighting of bonfires along the Mississippi is a beloved Louisiana holiday tradition, designed to help guide Papa Noël and his gator-pulled sleigh. Missed the Algiers blaze? Head to Lutcher Dec. 9-11 for the Festival of the Bonfires (festivalofthebonfires. org), where you’ll see dozens of creative structures erected along the riverfront before the big burn on Christmas Eve. You’ll find City Park all aglow all month with Celebration in the Oaks (celebrationintheoaks.com), which features 2.25 miles of illuminated displays and more than a million twinkling lights; both driving and walking tours are offered. The nation’s longest-running projection-mapping festival, Luna Fête (lunafete.com), marks its 10th anniversary Dec. 7-10 with light-based art works and interactive displays spread along the Convention Center Pedestrian Park, while the Greenway Supernova (lafittegreenway.org/ supernova) lights up Mid-City Dec. 7-9.

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CHRISTMAS CLASSICS The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra helps get even the Scroogiest of Scrooges into the spirit with its Holiday Spectacular Dec. 2 at Orpheum Theater (orpheumnola.net), along with a performance of Handel’s Messiah Dec. 8. The Orpheum also mounts a live production of A Charlie Brown Christmas Dec. 3 and stages the New Orleans Ballet Theater’s presentation of The Nutcracker Dec. 15-16 and 20-23. Tchaikovsky’s seasonal standard is reset in Jackson Square with fortune tellers, tourists and a drag queen in the Marigny Opera Ballet’s New Orleans Jazz Nutcracker Dec. 8-10 and 1517 (marignyoperaballet.org), while the Mahalia Jackson Theater (mahaliajacksontheater.com) stages the Delta Festival Ballet’s Nutcracker Dec. 16-17 and the Saenger (saengernola.com) presents Nutcracker! Magical Christmas Ballet, featuring an international ensemble, Dec. 30. St. Louis Cathedral and the Ashe Cultural Center offer free holiday concerts

(holiday.neworleans.com) by Grammy winner Irma Thomasand other local greats throughout December, while thousands join in one voice for the candlelit Caroling in the Jackson Square Dec. 17 at 7 pm (patioplanters.net).

HOMES FOR THE HOLIDAYS Relive Christmases of yore all month at the historic Hermann-Grima and Gallier Houses (hgghh.org), which you’ll find decked in “holiday dress” typical of the 1800s. The Friends of the Cabildo’s 45th annual Creole Christmas House Tour (friendsofthecabildo.org) likewise offers a peek into 19th-century holiday customs Dec. 27-29, with self-guided visits to five period-perfect French Quarter properties. Current-day Quarter residents throw open their doors and invite the public in Dec. 17 during the Patio Planters’ Holiday Home & Courtyard Tour (patioplanters.net), while the Preservation Resource Center (prcno.org) offers entry into gorgeous Garden District manses Dec. 9-10.

DECEMBER 2023

©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM

BRIGHT & SHINEY

NOLA HOLIDAY PARADE

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Need a little Christmas? The city hauls out the holly and gets the season started Dec. 2 at 11 am with the NOLA Holiday Parade (nolaholidayparade.com) rolling through the French Quarter and downtown. Featuring 30 floats, balloon figures, marching bands and dancing troupes, the parade starts near the French Market (frenchmarket. org), where the free St. Nick Celebration offers live music and kids’ activities, and culminates with an equally free after-party at Lafayette Square for all the good girls and boys. Later that night it’s all about snagging lumps of coal during the naughtyand-nice Krewe of Krampus NOLAuf Parade (kreweofkrampus.com) in the Bywater neighborhood and playing with fire at the Algiers Holiday Bonfire & Concert (algierseconomic.com).

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CELEBRATION IN THE OAKS; ©JUSTEN WILLIAMS/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©MARCUS CARTER

Where Now

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GALLIER HOUSE, CELEBRATION IN THE OAKS, CAROLING IN JACKSON SQUARE AND LUNA FÊTE

Hot Dish LORIN GAUDIN

Northern Italian food in a pretty space that includes a cool bar with some open-air seating (weather permitting) facing Magazine Street. Chef Brian Burns’ menu is packed with homemade pastas and woodfired dishes rotating seasonally and on whim. Begin with a Negroni Bianco cocktail and then order shareables for the table like the Roasted Oysters that come with focaccia to soak up the juices and a simple, perfectly blistered-crust pizza topped by 24-month-aged prosciutto, fresh mozzarella and basil. Follow with the 24 oz. Ribeye and an order of the Charred Radicchio and Broccoli. There’s a gorgeous wine and cocktail list to consider and, if stomach space allows, the desserts are worth every calorie...should anyone be counting. 4609 MAGAZINE ST., 504.273.1268

DOUGH NGUYENER’S

Make the wee jaunt across the river to neighborhoody Old Gretna and grab a bite at this Vietnamese-owned bakery and café. Sweet or savory, there’s loads

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to choose from: donuts, croissants, pastries, baguettes; don’t miss the steamed barbecue pork buns near the register. For bigger appetites, there’s shrimp-crab-and-mushroom toast or Nutella-topped croissant waffles (to name two), but try the coconut sticky rice with Chinese sausage, rotisserie chicken thighs and fried shallots, the Banh Mi Bo Kho (beef, potato and carrot stew with a fresh baguette) or their crunchy fried chicken. Swoon. 433 LAFAYETTE ST., 504.581.8255

SCRAMBLED CAFÉ

Scrambled has a serious following for breakfast and brunch. Yes, yes there are eggs, bacon and grits, etc. But…this is the place to get Red Velvet Waffles piled high with strawberries, bananas, chocolate chips and a fat dollop of vanilla cream cheese or Chicken & Waffles Benny topped by sunny eggs and a sriracha aioli. Not to be left out, the kitchen also offers vegan selections. Juice, coffee or tea, if you must, but don’t sleep on the decadent Biscoffee or Cinnamon Roll Au Lait. 5433 LAUREL ST., 504.427.2277

DECEMBER 2023

(FROM TOP) ©SARAH PETERS PHOTOGRAPHY; ©KIM RANJBAR; ©CHRIS HAGAN

OSTERIA LUPO

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What’s new, now and not to be missed

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MULTIPLE DAILY & NIGHTLY TOURS Ghost • Voodoo • Vampire • Cemetery Pub Crawl • French Quarter • Garden District

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HauntedHistoryTours.com 504-861-2727 THESE are the tours you’ve heard about!

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

H O L I D A Y

GIFT GUIDE Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, or that something special for that special someone? Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.

WELLINGTON & CO. FINE JEWELRY Showcasing a wide array of antique, estate and custom jewelry designs along with preowned luxury watches, Wellington & Co. Fine Jewelry provides an inviting experience within its multigenerational shop in the heart of the French Quarter.

LET THERE BE LIGHT Add a sophisticated radiance to any outdoor affair with Bevolo Gas & Electric Light’s French Quarter nine-inch tabletop lantern. Hand riveted and made with antique copper, this lantern will give a Vieux Carré courtyard ambiance to any occasion. 304/316/318 Royal St. French Quarter

505 Royal Street | 504.525.4855 | wcjewelry.com

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DECEMBER 2023

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

H O L I D A Y

GIFT GUIDE THE SAZERAC HOUSE Mixology Set. Etched with a pattern inspired by the wrought iron fences of New Orleans, this stainless steel bar kit includes everything you need to make perfect drinks at home. Kit includes Japanese-style jigger, shaker tins, bar spoon, and strainer. $75. https://store.sazerachouse.com/ mixology-bar-kit.html

VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262

BUNGALOWS Bungalows, Julie Vos designed and handcrafted to the standards of fine jewelry. Made of semiprecious stones, pearl and imported glass, handset in 24k gold plate. A variety of collections available at Bungalow’s. 610 Chartres Street New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 522.9222 www.ShopBungalows.com

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Please visit our studio and gallery as we celebrate our 30th anniversary! Watch masters of the ancient art create quality, affordable blown glass in the only New Orleans year-round studio. Located in an award-winning restored Art Deco movie theater and rated #2 art gallery on Tripadvisor. 446 Vallette, Historic Algiers Point, New Orleans, 70114. Open M-F 10-5, call for Saturday hours. (504) 366-3602 www.rosetreegallery.com

THE

GUIDE OUR

FOR A GOOD CLAWS

Marinated crab claws with Urfa, cucumber and sesame seeds from Fives (p. 36). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call to verify hours.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.

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©CORY JAMES FONTENOT

Central Business/ Warehouse District BÉSAME Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (ThSu), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com BREWERY SAINT X American. In addition to house-brewed beers, this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked fish dip with crab boil chips) and an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (eggplant and burrata). L (TuSu), D (nightly). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli, jerk pork belly and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly); Br (Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com

DEVIL MOON BBQ Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su). 1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out multicourse tasting menus, both classic and seasonal. The adjacent Salon serves up sharable small plates. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com GIANNA Italian. Rustic Italian cuisine is the order here. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamband-mushroom lasagna, veal saltimbocca; finish with gelato and biscotti. (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com THE GRILL ROOM Contemporary. Refined yet relaxed, the Windsor Court Hotel’s fine dining room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, L (M-F), D (WSu); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6; thewindsorcourt.com HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork

belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Lobster tacos, duck enchiladas, churro waffles: Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s Poydras Street hot spot puts contemporary spins on standard taqueria fare. L (Su-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; johnnysanchezrestaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, oysters are roasted in Calabrian chili butter, the meatballs combine beef with pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com KING BRASSERIE French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, Gulf fish with smoked lardon, wild boar provençale: Louisiana ingredients inform French favorites at this Rivera-inspired brasserie. Beautiful desserts. B, L, D (daily). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com LUFU NOLA Indian. Modern Indian means a flavor-punched menu that spans regions and defines boundaries. Start with the pani puri (crisp semolina shells filled with potato, peas and tamarind-mint water), followed by fried masala squid and curried lamb shank. L, D (daily). 301 St. Charles Ave., 504.354.1104. Map 3, D4; lufunola.com MAYPOP Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Dig into bibb lettuce salad with coconut ranch, fried oysters with bourbon aioli, or go spicy with lamb ragu pappardelle. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the famed chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad and poke nachos to Korean fried chicken wings. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril MISS RIVER Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com THE PEACOCK ROOM Eclectic. It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails and a round of sharable small plates (curried cashews with candied bacon). Better yet, settle in with a smash burger. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.3073. Map 3, E5; peacockroomnola.com PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com RESTAURANT AUGUST Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com SEAWORTHY Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other

THE GUIDE

CHEMIN À LA MER Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5898. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay sauce, escargot en croute and steak frites. L (M-Th), D (TuSa); Br (F-Su). 317 Magazine St., 504.342.2316. Map 3, D5; couvant.com

Dining

DINING

sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com TSUNAMI Japanese. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (nightly). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com

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French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich FrenchCreole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (M-Sa); Br (M, Th-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides.

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Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell or the bourbon shrimp and grits. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com DIAN XIN Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; dianxinnnola.com. 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinonconti.com DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Order the filet topped with shrimp or crab or go big with a sharable chateaubriand. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannans steakhouse.comm DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com FRENCH TRUCK Coffee. French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open dail. 217 Chartres St., 504.605.2899. Map 3, F4; 700 Canal St., 504.290.2664.

Map 3, E5; 650 Poydras St., 504. 800.8090. Map 3, D5; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, D7; 2917 Magazine St., 504.399.9890. Map 1, D4; frenchtruckcoffee.com GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com GW FINS Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-M). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is full-on French with a slight Southern accent: onion soup gratinée and steak tartare share menu space with baked crab mac and shrimp and grits. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

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Dining

KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-M); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

505 Royal Street | 504.525.4855 w w w.wcjewelr y.com

PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers sweeping views of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and

THE GUIDE

MAMOU French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Celeriac remoulade with blue crab, escargot tartlet with romesco sauce, poisson a la Florentine. Finish with lemon madeleines. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

andouille-crusted Gulf fish. L (W-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch (SaSu). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com PALM & PINE Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s curry crab beignets, chicken-fried Texas quail, or dig into closerto-home flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The whole crispy fish is excellent, as is the herb-crusted rack of lamb. Start with the lump crab and shrimp ravigote. D (W-Su). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; pelicanclub.com

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RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Cajun. Chef John Folse is the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (Th-Tu). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com SAINT JOHN Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, turkey necks smothered in brown gravy, beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com ELIZABETH’S Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com

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SUN CHONG Asian. This sleek spot doles out Asian fusion fare—crawfish fried rice, beef bulgogi po’boys, matcha cheesecake—and cool specialty cocktails, backed by a hip-hop beat. D (nightly). 240 Decatur St., 504.355.0022. Map 3, F5; sunchongnola.com TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. Br, D (W-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com THAIHEY NOLA Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-Su). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com TUJAGUE’S Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District THE BOWER Contemporary. Chef Marcus Woodham works closely with local farmers to keep his menu fresh and seasonal. Cheese and charcuterie boards give way to gorgeous house-made pastas and grilled Gulf fish. D (M-Sa). 1320 Magazine St., 504.582.9738. Map 1, D4; thebowernola.com COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-

Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes often but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com FAT BOY PANTRY Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb belly-and-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514. Map 1, D4; fatboypantry.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen. The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think pork cheeks with polenta and Creole meunière or fried chicken Parmesan. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com SAN LORENZO Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Start with the zucchini fritti. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this

casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater ALMA Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American. The menu at this casual neighborhood eatery focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with sweet potatococonut purée, jerk chicken with semolina dumplings; try the spicy seafood stew. D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or fullon entrees such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this friendly neighborhood joint, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (Th-M). 601 Gallier

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St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com THE ELYSIAN BAR Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com N7 French. This quiet, hiddenaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck confit, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. Grab a seat in the garden. D (M-Sa); Br (F-Sa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

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PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this beautifully restored marketplace features 24 steel columns and a variety of ood vendors, along with a bar and indoor/outdoor seating. B, L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.267.0388; strochmarket. com

Mid-City ADDIS NOLA African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmitadusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. L (M, W-F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery

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offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glasstopped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2; angelobrocatoicecream.com BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com DOOKY CHASE’S Creole. One of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the nation. The late “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase’s legend lives on in classic dishes such as shrimp with lima beans and gumbo z’herbes. L (Tu-F), D (F-Sa). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; dookychaserestaurants.com FLOUR MOON BAGELS Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the draw here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. Named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois St., 504.354.1617. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pork belly bowl are must-haves. L, D (daily). 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2; mophonola.com

PARKWAY BAKERY Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’ s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. L (W-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; ralphsonthepark.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with sweet pea risotto. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

UPTOWN AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of the late great Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (TuSa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; brigtsens.com CASAMENTO’S Seafood. Open since 1919, this Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for

plump Gulf bivalves. Get them fried for sandwiches built on thick slices of toast, floating in buttery stew or simply raw and cold on the half shell. L (ThSa), D (Th-Su). 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4; casamentosrestaurant.com THE CHLOE Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out staller dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the porkand-shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com COSTERA Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-Su). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com DAKAR NOLA African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com FRANCOLINI’S Deli. Proof that “not everything from Jersey sucks,” this homage to Northeastern Italian delis offers a wide variety of subs and sandwiches comprised of quality meats and cheeses. The Italian is piled with prosciutto, mortadella, hot capicola, genoa salami and provolone. L (ThTu). 3987 Tchoupitoulas St. Map 1, D4; francolinis.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com

DECEMBER 2023

LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com

OSTERIA LUPO Italian. A nod to Northern Italy, with sharable antipasti (black truffle arancini), handmade pastas (radiatori with Louisiana blue crab) and wood-fired meat and seafood entrees (grilled lamb with pistachio-mint salsa verde). L (F-Su), D (nightly). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; osterialupo.com SABA Mediterranean. A taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as duck breast with pomegranate molasses, cocoa and citrus. L (F), D (WM); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Elevated Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and grilled shrimp curry. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com SHAYA Mediterranean. Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection; try the fried chicken version. L, D (daily). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; shayarestaurant.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American

Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St.,

“Nack-A-Tish”

Natchitoches Christmas Festival

Celebrating 97 Years! Nov. 15, 2023 - Jan. 6, 2024

800-259-1714 • www.Natchitoches.com

NatchitochesToursim

THE GUIDE

MISTER MAO Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from ginger salad and escargot Wellington to

Kashmiri chile fried chicken and octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-Tu); Br (Sa-Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

Dining/Shopping

LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (Th-Su); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 7910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

SH O P P IN G

KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com LEROY’S PLACE A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture. 922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com

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NEW ORLE A NS

Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm

New Orleans, LA 70130

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO THE ST. LOUIS GARDEN

Silkscreen Designed by George Rodrigue in 2011 and Printed in 2023 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 37 x 15 inches 730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244 Mon Mon- -Sat: Sat:11:00am 11:am - -5:00pm 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm

www.GeorgeRodrigue.com DECEMBER 2023

RODRIGUE STUDIO Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

DIRTY COAST Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955. Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

SH O P P IN G

VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com

WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

TRASHY DIVA Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

Clothing, Hats & Shoes BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com CENTURY GIRL A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4; centurygirlvintage.com

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Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com C’MERE Short for “come here!,” this small shop entices with owner Remy’s tiny food jewelry fashioned from polymer clay: charcuterie studs, spaghetti and meatball hoops, dumpling dangles. You’ll also find handmade goods from other local artists. 427 Esplanade

Ave., 781.367.2799. Map 3, J5; cmerenola.com FLEURTY GIRL These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net HOME MALONE A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home decor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148. Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. Map 1, D2; homemalonenola.com IDEA FACTORY Unique woodworking from around the U.S. This eclectic shop is geared to both young and old, offering toys and kitchen accessories as well as custom-made signs. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4; ideafactoryneworleans.com LIONHEART PRINTS Notecards with amusing puns, custom stationary and artistic paper products created inhouse is the get here, along with select gift items (beautiful pens, candles, etc.). 618 Chartres St. Map 3, F5; 3312 Magazine St. Map 1, D4; lionheartprints.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and other gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com.

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com KREWE This locally designed eyewear line, with styles named for New Orleans streets, has garnered a national following. 619 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, G4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; krewe.com MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com WELLINGTON & CO. This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers CANAL PLACE Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local shops. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

DECEMBER 2023

Shopping/Attractions

RIVERWALK OUTLETS Located along the river at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the top-rated zoos in the nation. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org CEASARS SUPERDOME Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com

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CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neigh-

THE GUIDE

AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

borhood. Map 3, J6; crescent parknola.org FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org HARRAH’S CASINO The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans

AT T R A C T IO N S

JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouis cathedral.org PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com

the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Historic Homes BK HISTORIC HOUSE AND GARDENS This beautifully restored 1826 villa is the former residence of both Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4; bkhouse.org

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

ST. BERNARD PARISH Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield,

GALLIER HOUSE The home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered W-M. 1132

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Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/museum offers a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours W-M. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; hgghh.org HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com WHITNEY PLANTATION Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 9:30 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

Museums THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su (10 am-5 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-5 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

DECEMBER 2023

Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

Attractions/Entertainment

KILLER POBOYS

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT Killer Poboys @ Erin Rose Bar 811 Conti St

Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com CITY SIGHTSEEING This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs form Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Insightful two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; friendsofthecabildo.org

THE GUIDE

WHERE THE MAGAZINE COMES TO LIFE

Cruises & Tours

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

SITY PL

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BURGUNDY

100 BARO

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DAUPHINE HermannGrima House

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barware

4 Toulouse

MP CA

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Jackson B

4 Insecterium

S ETER

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329 royal st, new orleans 504.525.2262 www.vintage329.com

OU P IT

L AS

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S. P

Harrah’s Casino

ShoeBeDoUSA.com

324 Chartres St. (504)523-7463

4/6/18 3/6/18 4/4/18 12:37:51 7:50:41 1:06 PM PM PM

Canal Place Shopping

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

2 Steamboat

CHARTRES

DECATUR

N. P

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ROYAL

DORSIERE

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6 Canal Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

V GRA

5 Bienville

Vieux Carré Police Station

EXCHANGE ALLEY

3 Dumaine

Historic N.O. Collection

ST. CHARLES

COM M

VINTAGE

2 Ursulines

1 Esplanade

CANAL

CARONDELET

RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS

500

IBERVILLE

O'K

N. RAMP ART

TOULOUSE

UNIVER

400

ST. LOUI S

OLA LOY

300 CONTI

200

BIENVILLE

S. RAMP ART Louisiana Superdome

TC A

RFR Steam RIVE Gray Line Tour Natch Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

FRENCH QUARTER Y N TH O ST .A N

BURGUNDY

KERLEREC

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

BARRACKS

RAMPART

GOV. NICHOLLS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILI P

800

DUMAINE

ST. ANN

ORLEANS

700

1000

600

ST. PETER

Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

PA U

900

BOURBON

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

800

DAUPHINE

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Gov.

M H C EN FR

Nic holl s St.

Flea

Mar

ket

FI E

S arke

ESPLANADE

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Mississippi River

Fren

American Aquatic Garden

N.O. Jazz Museum/ Old U.S. Mint

VINTAGE CHANEL®

EL Y

MADISON

DECATUR

mboat hez

Pedestrian Mall

E TR AR

Pedestrian Mall

L YA

WILKINSON ROW

Ursuline Convent

MOONW ALK

Washington Square Park

AAT EC D

BeauregardKeyes House CHARTRES

500

600

Brewery

ROYAL Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

Jackson Square

700

PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY

Wh arf

329 Royal St, New Orleans 504.525.2262 WWW.VINTAGE329.COM

Historic Algiers Point

SCAN FOR RESERVATIONS

125 BOURBON STREET DINE IN. TAKE OUT. DELIVERY.

GATORS AND GHOSTS This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 728 St. Louis St., 888.481.8188. Map 3, F4; gatorsandghosts.com

E N T ER TA IN M EN T /N IG H T L IF E

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com NOLA HISTORIC TOURS Guide Rob Florence literally wrote the book on New Orleans cemeteries. Both entertaining and educational, his knowledgeable team’s walking tours run the gamut, from the French Quarter and Garden District to the city’s music history and voodoo lore. 504.947.2120. tourneworleans.com STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

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BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com CHANDELIER BAR The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans THE COLUMNS This historic property oozes elegance. Grab a seat at the moody mahogany bar or settle into a courtyard table and listen to the streetcar rumble by, while sipping stellar cocktails and noshing on standout small plates. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4; thecolumns.com DOUBLE DEALER Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy woos with curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of entertainment. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.300.0212. Map 3, E3; doubledealernola.com EFFERVESCENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; nolabubbles.com FIVES This European-inspired drinking salon in Jackson Square’s historic Pontalba Buildings serves up both classic and original quaffs, a variety of oysters, caviar and other raw bar options. 29 St. Ann St. Map 3, H5; fives.bar

HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this cozy space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com THE WILL & THE WAY Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this easy-to-overlook gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated menu of both small and large plates. 2719 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thewillandtheway.com

Live Entertainment BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky

and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com THE FILLMORE Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com HOUSE OF BLUES The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com MAPLE LEAF A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the night. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com THREE MUSES This venue offers a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, a smattering of small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

DECEMBER 2023

Maps

NEW ORLEANS MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

G 510

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MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA 10

165 13

190

Crowley

Hammond 190

Plaquemine

Lafayette

167

182

Abbeville

Lake Maurepas 55

Laplace

New Iberia

310

Thibodaux

Franklin 182

Metairie

Houma

Kenner

Lafitte

Raceland

New Orleans

Vermilion Bay

1 59

Slidell

Lake Pontchartrain 10

3127

Napoleonville

Covington Abita 41 Springs Mandeville

27 35

Folsom

22 30

10 90

165

E 51

Baton Rouge 190

190

Baker

61 1

Opelousas

Eunice

190

71 167

39 23

1 24

Gulf of Mexico

Port Sulphur

Atchafalaya Bay

Barataria Bay

Cailou Bay

Grand Isle

Buras-Triumph Venice

Gulf of Mexico

Terrebonne Bay

10 mi 10 km

THE GUIDE

Gretna

NEW ORLEANS MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

Caesars Superdome

Smoothie King Center N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater HS HD

Orpheum Theater

Cancer Survivors Park

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etc

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Civic Theatre

Canal Streetcar Line

Rampart Streetcar Line

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c Museum of the eet Str Southern Jewish les r a Experience Ch

TULANE & LOYOLA UNIVERSITY

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La. Supreme Court Building LQ

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Wilkinson

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Champions Square

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Toulouse St. Wharf

Canal WO OE Place

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National WWII Museum

Audubon Aquarium & Insectarium

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Riverwalk Outlets

Canal St Ferry Landing

Poydras St. Wharf

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Girod St.

Riverfront Wharf Streetcar Line HA

Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

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New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

DECEMBER 2023

Maps

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 K CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 1 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6 FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8 HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6 2 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 PP LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 5 MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 St NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 ia n e v p A e OV AvOlivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3 S ch lin Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7 Ro FrankOR St OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6 6 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 7 Street Direction RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4 French Quarter RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like. WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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BK Historic CY House

hin

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Madison

u rg

Louis thedral

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N.O. Jazz Museum/ HM Old U.S. Mint

French Market

l ya Ro

Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

KEY HM

Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

THE GUIDE

lau

C St

Get Fired Up For generations, elaborate wooden structures have been erected along the riverfront in nearby Lutcher during the holidays, then set aflame on Christmas Eve. Don’t feel like cranking up the sleigh? Let Grayline (graylineneworleans.com) guide you there.



PARTING SHOT

40 W HERETRAVELER

NEW ORLE A NS

DECEMBER 2023

CHANEL vintage collection

329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262