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CONTENTS 12 FIRST LOOK Must-visit destinations—from the French Quarter to City Park and beyond.

22 ART IN THE OPEN Jackson Square’s historic artist colony, the New Orleans Museum of Art’s 11-acre sculpture garden, massive murals on downtown buildings: Outsider art is in.

One man’s playtime is another man’s dream job. Meet the keeper of the Louisiana State Museum’s Carnival Collection, the most envied guy in town.

30 GOOD EARTH, GOOD EATIN’ From “down the bayou,” Mosquito Supper Club owner and author, Melissa M. Martin, brings a taste of endangered Cajun life to the big city.

34 THE GUIDE Where to go for top-notch shopping, dining, nightlife and entertainment? Right this way.

38 LOOK BOOK 55 ADVERTISER INDEX 56 PARTING SHOT Later, gator.

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26 COSTUME CULTURE

DISCOVER HOW THE WAR THAT CHANGED THE WORLD CHANGED THE PEOPLE WHO LIVED IT. Plan your visit to the #1 attraction in New Orleans. SCAN THE QR CODE TO BUY YOUR TICKETS OR PURCHASE ONLINE AT NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

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Brantley Kincaid CONTRIBUTORS Jenny Adams, Isaac Arjonilla, Denny Culbert, Shawn Fink, Melissa M. Martin, Wayne Phillips ART DIRECTOR Hadley

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CONTRIBUTORS

Art in the Open, page 22

Jenny Adams is a full-time freelance writer and photographer, largely focused on food, beverage and travel coverage. Her work has appeared in more than 50 publications, including National Geographic, BBC Travel and AFAR. Adams is a frequent contributor to Conde Nast Traveler, Hemispheres and Garden & Gun magazines and is the author of two books on drinking in New Orleans, with a novel currently in the works. After more than a decade in Manhattan, she now resides in the French Quarter.

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Melissa M. Martin

Wayne Phillips

Melissa M. Martin grew up on the Louisiana coast and has lived in New Orleans for 20 years. After Hurricane Katrina, she relocated to Northern California, where she worked at some of the top Napa Valley restaurants. Upon returning to New Orleans, in 2014 she opened Mosquito Supper Club, where she serves a familystyle Cajun dinner with a glimpse into life on the bayou. Martin has made it her life’s work to support local fishermen and farmers and to run a sustainable restaurant.

Wayne Phillips has served as the Curator of Costumes & Textiles and Curator of the Carnival Collection at the Louisiana State Museum since 1998. He is responsible for more than 40,000 artifacts, including historic and contemporary clothing and textiles, as well as an encyclopedic collection of artifacts documenting all aspects of Louisiana Carnival celebrations. Phillips has made strides in expanding the museum’s holdings documenting the state’s LGBTQ community, with particular interest in gay krewes.

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FIRST LOOK The city’s top destinations and attractions, in no particular order—from the French Quarter and City Park to Uptown and down.

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French Quarter

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When most people think of New Orleans, they first envision the French Quarter, and rightly so. When New Orleans was originally laid out in 1721, the Vieux Carré was the city—all 13 blocks of it. The district is now on the National Register of Historic Places, and its trademark Creole townhouses, Spanish-influenced courtyards and iconic ironwork balconies are synonymous with Southern style. Bourbon Street, teeming with bars and nightclubs, is known worldwide for its nonstop party atmosphere, while Royal Street is an art and antiquing epicenter. Chartres Street offers chic boutiques and several of the Quarter’s most historic sites.

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FIRST LOOK Garden District/Uptown

Magazine Street

Known as “the street of dreams,” Magazine Street lives up to its moniker with six miles of prime retailing. Start along the 1300 block and work your way toward the Audubon Zoo at the street’s opposite end. En route you’ll discover hundreds of quaint Victorian homes revamped as chic boutiques housing an eclectic mix of art, antiques, clothing, home accents—you name it. It can easily take a full day (or two) to scope out all the offerings. Pace yourself by refueling at one of Magazine’s many restaurants and cafés.

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(TOP) ©ISAAC ARJONILLA; (BOTTOM) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©KERRI MCCAFFETY

New Orleans’ second-most well-known neighborhood is about a mile away from the French Quarter, but in spirit it’s a world apart. Conceived as the city’s “American sector,” the area (technically bound by Louisiana Avenue to Carondelet Street and Josephine and Magazine streets) is famous for its stately homes surrounded by expansive gardens. Uptown, filled with Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style mansions, is concentrated around St. Charles Avenue. The St. Charles streetcar runs the full length of the oak-canopied boulevard, an ideal way to view the area’s antebellum masterpieces.

Mississippi Riverfront

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Due to the city’s below-sea-level positioning, many visitors leave New Orleans without ever catching a glimpse of the Mississippi River. Woldenberg Park and Crescent Park, grassy promenades that run along the riverfront, offer the perfect opportunity. Grab a go-cup and watch the sunset from along the Moonwalk, or board the Creole Queen paddlewheeler, the steamboat Natchez or the City of New Orleans riverboat, all of which offer cruises. The Algiers ferry, which shuttles passengers from the city’s Westbank, has been crossing the Mississippi since 1827.

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FIRST LOOK

Canal Street, laid out in the mid 1800s, originally served as a “neutral ground” between the Creole-populated French Quarter and Uptown’s “American sector.” Cross Canal from the Quarter, and you enter the Central Business District, or CBD, which is defined by Poydras Street, its main artery stretching from the river to the Caesars Superdome. As its name suggests, the CBD is the hub of local commerce but also includes the Morial Convention Center, Harrah’s Casino, high-end hotels and massive Mardi Gras World.

Tremé

City Park

With its easygoing pace, subtropical climate and tranquil outdoor spaces, the Crescent City is made for walks in the park. Founded in 1858, New Orleans City Park is one of the nation’s oldest, biggest and most visited. Counting the world’s largest collection of live oaks and a wide variety of outdoor activities, from boating and horseback riding to golf and tennis, the park also features the New Orleans Museum of Art and its free Besthoff Sculpture Garden, along with the Louisiana Children’s Museum. 16

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Long before the HBO series made it a household name, the Faubourg Tremé was known locally as a breeding ground for jazz and a gravity center of Crescent City culture. Just north of the French Quarter, the nation’s oldest African American neighborhood claims a number of historic sites, including the second-oldest Black Catholic parish in the U.S., the circa-1841 St. Augustine Church. Armstrong Park, home to Congo Square where people of color would gather during the 1800s to drum, dance and sing, features statues of music legends, such as the late, great Louis Armstrong, for whom it is named.

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; ©ROMNEY CARUSO; ©SHAWN FINK; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©ISAAC ARJONILLA

Central Business District

Mid-City

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With access to Bayou St. John, City Park and long sections of both Canal Street and Carrollton Avenue, the Mid-City neighborhood, once referred to as “backatown,” is really in the middle of it all. Built around the New Basin Canal (now Interstate 10), the area rose from swampland to become an industrial center, before morphing into today’s bustling city center. Culture vultures flock to the New Orleans Museum of Art, while outdoor adventurists gravitate to the park and adjacent bayou. The Canal streetcar line links Mid-City to downtown; the Lafitte Greenway, a 2.6-mile bike and pedestrian path, connects to the French Quarter.

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FIRST LOOK

Named one of the city’s hippiest ’hoods by Travel + Leisure, the French Quarter-adjacent Marigny (just across Esplanade Avenue) is largely comprised of historic Creole cottages and colorful double shotguns. Its central strip, Frenchmen Street, is loaded with cool music venues and funky clubs. Further downriver, the Marigny-adjacent Bywater attracts artists, musicians and other creative types. Though primarily residential, the area is also home to trendy eateries and offbeat watering holes. The riverfront Crescent Park links the two neighborhoods to the French Quarter.

Museums

Warehouse Arts District

Prior to the 1984 World’s Fair, this section of the city, bound by Poydras and Howard avenues between St. Charles Avenue and the river, was devoted to crumbling 19th-century warehouses. Today it’s a thriving arts district with dozens of galleries and museums, including the award-winning National WWII Museum, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and the new Museum of the Southern Jewish Experience. Julia Street’s identical red-brick townhouses, known as the “Thirteen Sisters,” is a great example of Federal-style architecture. 18

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For three centuries New Orleans has stood at the center of Southern culture, and nowhere is that more evident than in its many museums. There are dozens to explore, each with its own concentration. The Louisiana State Museum system features a number of the region’s oldest and most important buildings; the National WWII Museum ranks as the city’s most popular destination. Classicists will gravitate to the New Orleans Museum of Art; modernists will find what they are after at the Contemporary Arts Center. Southern art is the focus at the Ogden Museum, while the Historic New Orleans Collection charts the city’s 300-year evolution and the Sazerac House toasts local cocktail culture.

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; ©SHAWN FINK; ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

Marigny/Bywater

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FIRST LOOK Festivals

Bike Rentals

With more than 100 miles of designated paths, New Orleans ranks among the top cities in the U.S. for urban biking—hence the growing number of bicycle vendors that have opened in recent years. From guided tours and hourly rentals to the recently reinstated Blue Bike municipal sharing program, the city offers a variety of two-wheel alternatives to Uber and Lyft. Take a spin along the riverfront Crescent Park or set off on the Laffite Greenway. More a nature lover than city cyclist? Explore the Tammany Trace, which spans 31 miles through five Northshore communities.

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(TOP) ©BUKU MUSIC + ART PROJECT; (BOTTOM) BLUE BIKES NOLA

With an average of 500-plus, Louisiana mounts more festivals than there are days of year, with many taking place within the metro area. From the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival in March to the Satchmo SummerFest in August to October’s Voodoo Music + Arts Experience, you’re bound to stumble upon a cultural celebration of some sort during the during your visit. Two of the largest and most popular—the French Quarter Festival and the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival—take place each April, but good times are always on the Crescent City calendar whatever the month.

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ART IN THE OPEN A Crescent City cultural exploration in the great outdoors BY JENNY ADAMS

(ALL IMAGES) ©CRISTA ROCK/HELIS FOUNDATION

hile there are many great, visit-worthy museums in New Orleans, you don’t need to pay a penny—or to even step inside—to see some of the best art the city has to offer. Simply grab your sunglasses, camera and a friend, and set out on a daylong outdoor art safari. Much like the Champs-Élysées in Paris and Las Ramblas in Barcelona, Jackson Square has long drawn creatives. In the 1950s, following World War II, a few artists began gathering in Pirate’s Alley, the tiny laneway adjacent to St. Louis Cathedral. There was an artistic appeal to the location, with notes of live jazz and the aromas of coffee and gin wafting through the air, the time of day depending. Artists set up here, painting on easels, sketching in notebooks and

hawking their creations to passersby. It remains a steady art scene to this day, swelling in the high season and calming in the low. On any given afternoon, you might find as many as 20 artists working along its fence, with offerings ranging from fast, spray-paint pieces to more in-depth, fine art paintings. Most weekends you’ll spot Victor Nenko on the eastern corner of the fence, swiftly applying strokes to canvas. He captures what’s around him—the centuries-old Pontalba Buildings, a saxophone player, scenes playing out at al fresco cafés—painting New Orleans in abstract realism; blurred but raw, colorful and full of life. Just down the fence toward Café Du Monde, Bob Clift has been a staple on the open-air art scene for more than 50 years. “I work in pastels,” he says, WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK

“and prefer customers sit for portraits.” Commit to around 40 minutes for a black-and-white drawing or an hour and a half for color. It’s a rare and wonderful thing to have a portrait done by someone with so much talent. Along with hundreds of ancient live oaks and dozens of works by Mexican-born WPA-era artist Enrique Alferez, City Park is home to the New Orleans Museum of Art, which offers six centuries of fine art inside, as well as its free Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden. The garden opened in 2003 with more than 60 sculptures, the majority from the 19th and 20th centuries (including pieces by Renoir, Rodin and Henry Moore), spread over five lushly landscaped acres. A 2019 expansion added another 6.5 acres and 30 more pieces, three of which are site-specific commissions. The expansion primarily features contemporary artists (Maya Lin, Frank Gehry, Elyn Zimmerman, Hank Willis Thomas)

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working in multiple mediums and materials, from bronze and glass to steel and ceramics. On the southern edge of the park is the Louisiana Children’s Museum, which is accessed via Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya’s fog sculpture, her first in the American South and second in the nation. Walking toward the entrance, you cross a low, long footbridge from which a rolling fog sweeps the landscape every 30 minutes. The experience is otherworldly, enveloping visitors in an ethereal mist that blankets their feet and the surrounding marshland. The installation was made possible by the Helis Foundation, a private, familyfunded group that underwrites major outdoor art initiatives around the city. Another Helis project is the Poydras Corridor Sculpture Exhibition, a public art program stretching from the intersection of Poydras Street and S. Claiborne Avenue all

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©JENNY ADAMS (2); ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM

Jackson Square regular Victor Nenko (left), one of many artists you’ll find creating and displaying works along its black iron fence.

(FROM LEFT) ©LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM; ©RICHARD SEXTON/NOMA (2)

the way to Convention Center Boulevard. Placards dot the sidewalks, offering background information on each artist and sculpture, as well as the meaning behind them. The revolving series, which has featured more than 30 works since its inception in 2013, recently placed five new pieces, including a massive, red acrylic and aluminum cantilevered sculpture by 106-year-old Cuban artist Carmen Herrera at Loyola Avenue and acclaimed local artist Dawn DeDeaux’s “Free Form” series of columns inscribed with poetry across from the Superdome. “Public art is a hallmark of every international art city and reflects the value our community places on art and the individuals who make it,” says William Pittman Andrews, executive director of the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and curator of the Poydras project. “The art serves to activate our environment, and in this setting, anyone passing by can

interact with and be inspired by these sculptures. It’s another way to celebrate New Orleans.” In partnership with Arts Council New Orleans, the Helis Foundation also helped mount “Unframed,” a collection of massive murals in and around the Central Business and Warehouse Arts districts. The two neighborhoods are positioned back-to-back, so it’s easy to explore these pieces on foot. Among the must-sees are local standout Brandan Odums’ uplifting depiction of a father and son swimming on the side of 636 Baronne Street, and, at 315 Julia Street on the façade of the Embassy Suites Hotel, the project’s largest mural to date, a 14-story work by Canadian artist Danaé Brissonnet that incorporates a giant pelican and fantastical alligator with a mermaid’s tail. For comprehensive, easy-tofollow maps of all the Unframed pieces and Poydras Corridor sculptures, visit thehelisfoundation.org.

Fujiko Nakaya’s fog installation at the LA Children’s Museum (top left) and the New Orleans Museum of Art’s Besthoff Sculpture Garden.

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Costume ulturez

Museum-quality masquerading BY WAYNE PHILLIPS

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT ) ©SHAWN FINK; ©MARK J. SINDLER/LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM; ©CHERYL GERBER; ©MARK J. SINDLER/LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©CHERYL GERBER

ne would think that, as Curator of the Carnival Collection at the Louisiana State Museum, I enthusiastically costume on Mardi Gras, along with thousands of others. However, in the 20-plus years that I’ve had this job, I’ve generally looked at Mardi Gras as a working holiday. I’ve got my eyes wide open to take in all the color and creativity and a handful of business cards at the ready to possibly do a little “shopping” for a costume or two that would have a nice home in the museum’s permanent collection. Rather than wear costumes, I study and preserve them. My responsibilities include watching over a collection of 40,000 artifacts; there’s no doubt you have to like Carnival to do well in this job. The Louisiana State Museum is the only local museum that continually takes in costumes to preserve as artifacts.

That decision was made back in the 1920s, when it was first recognized that costumes weren’t just for playing dressup but were in fact precious works of art and craft. The approximately 500 costumes kept by the museum include outfits worn by kings, queens, members of courts, those presented at balls, as well as homemade getups once worn by adults and children—a wide cross section to cover every type. Certainly, the finest costumes in the collection are those worn by the pretend monarchs of Carnival balls. Since 1872, Rex has served as King of Carnival, and his costume is particularly admired and historically important. No doubt the most valuable costume in the museum’s collection is one that was worn by Howard Stringfellow as Rex in 1881, a character from the Arabian Nights tales. He wore a long orange silk velvet robe trimmed with heavy gold bullion

Clockwise from top left: A Krewe of Red Beans showstopper, a Mardi Gras Indian suit and royal regalia. Opposite page: A colorful member of the Society of St. Anne.

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fringe and large colored glass stones and bearing a long train. It also happens to be my favorite in the collection. The Louisiana State Museum has put on Carnival exhibits since the 1950s. This remarkable continuum shows how important the event is to locals and visitors alike. In addition to a permanent exhibition on Carnival history, the museum has mounted more than a dozen temporary exhibits in recent years on topics such as Mardi Gras in the movies, women’s krewes, float designs and, most recently, gay Carnival. Because Mardi Gras is at its core an artistic celebration, it has always been a priority of the museum to collect the work of recognized costume 28

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and float designers, going all the way back to the first known Carnival artist, Charles Briton, from the 1870s. Naturally, for spatial reasons, it is easier to collect costume and float sketches than it is the originals. A glance at the museum’s database reveals a list of more than 7,700 sketches executed by over 50 different artists. A common refrain whenever I bring visitors through the costume storage room is, “You have the coolest job.” I have to agree. With such a trove of historic clothing all around me, it’s easy to imagine the pageantry of Carnival seasons past and the creative costumes of those yet to come. Who knows, maybe one day I’ll even wear one of my own.

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM (2); ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

Clockwise from left: The robe worn by Rex 1881, Howard P. Stringfellow, the museum’s oldest costume; Rex 1892, Robert S. Day; an original watercolor design of the 1871 Twelfth Night Revelers Parade by Charles Briton from the Historic New Orleans Collection.

Celebrating New Orleans History, Art and Culture Celebrating 300 Years of New Orleans Visit The Historic history, Historic New New Orleans OrleansCollection Collectiontoday todaytotodiscover discoverthe more than art, 300 years of and culture from the city, the state, and the region. history, art, and culture from the city, the state, and the region. View original artifacts in the museum’s permanent Louisiana History Galleries. Tour the elegant French Quarter residence of the institution’s founders, browse the museum shop, and explore a new museum campus where you can trace the history of the French Quarter and immerse yourself in the culture of the city in the new Tricentennial Wing for changing exhibitions. Admission is free, and details on current exhibitions and events are available at www.hnoc.org. 520 Royal Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Sunday, 10:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. 533 Royal Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Sunday, 10:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

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410 Chartres Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

07/02/19 11:17 PMAM 2/7/19 8:01

GOOD EARTH, GOOD EATIN’ Savoring—and saving—Cajun Country cuisine TEXT BY MELISSA M. MARTIN | PHOTOGRAPHY BY DENNY CULBERT

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he first thing I think when someone refers to the states below the Mason-Dixon Line is “that’s north.” As a child in one of the southernmost parts of Louisiana, I didn’t understand the concept of the American South. To me, everything above Baton Rouge was the north. I grew up with leftover gumbo in the fridge and an oil rig drilling just outside my window. I didn’t know it was special to eat cold crabs for breakfast and be surrounded by water and bayous, ibis and pelicans, receding land and dying cypress trees. I also didn’t know I was Cajun. I was born and raised in South Louisiana in Terrebonne Parish. Terrebonne means “good earth” in French, and situated as it is on delta soil, the parish is aptly named. The Terrebonne my dad remembers growing up in sounds like a fairy-tale land: cypress- and oak-lined waterways; squirrels jumping from tree to tree overhead; egrets, cranes and herons hiding in hues of green, blue and emerald. Now the 100 million migratory birds that use South Louisiana as a wintering habitat lack landing pads in Terrebonne Parish. Most of the cypress and oak trees that are still standing are stripped to bare branches,

and the majority of the islands and bayous that encompassed the barrier waters have become lakes. Terrebonne Parish is hanging on to the coastline for dear life. Louisiana is losing more good earth than any other place on the planet. Louisiana’s coast, a thick, ever-changing blanket of marsh, is disappearing, and our wetlands and bayous are disappearing along with it. A whole list of places in South Louisiana that once held history are now covered in water. Before Cocodrie and Chauvin—the lands on which my grandparents, parents, siblings and I were born and raised— join that list, I want to make sure we put the Cajun food I grew up with and the people responsible for it on record. It’s imperative that the small fishing villages that push out so much seafood, tradition and culture be recognized and remembered before time and tides take their toll. Louisiana has already lost a landmass the size of Delaware. Unless the Mississippi River is diverted and allowed to flow into areas dependent on sediment, the delta lands, swamps, marshes and bays on which our ancestors settled will disappear, submerged in the Gulf of Mexico. In WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK

the next 25 years, if the water continues to rise at the current rate, a majority of Terrebonne Parish could be gone, and New Orleans could become a seaside town. A question New Orleanians are asked often is “Where can I get good Cajun food?” My answer would be “Do you know someone from down the bayou? Someone whose house you can go to?” That’s where you find real Cajun food. You can eat incredible Cajun food throughout South Louisiana on any given day—but it’s being prepared by busy, industrious women tucked away in home kitchens. Every recipe I know, I learned from a woman. Those of us who grew up on the bayou know that women run the kitchens. I am at the mercy of their knowledge, wisdom 32

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and strength, and I’ve been fortunate enough to be on the receiving side of their kitchen mastery. Women are the backbone of the tiny village in which I was raised, and they are the masters of sustaining and ensuring the survival of bayou communities. The Cajun food I ate growing up wasn’t loud or flashy—no bam!—and it was not consumed with copious amounts of beer or alcohol. We ate simple, whole foods, and we ate with the seasons. We ate a cuisine rooted in the hard

work of fishermen and the palates and grace of mothers and wives commanding their stoves. I opened Mosquito Supper Club because I wanted people to learn about the real Cajun food I grew up with. And I wanted to present that food in the context in which we eat it on the

bayou—with a woman in charge of the menu and the stories. I wanted to bring this simple Cajun food out of home kitchens and onto a restaurant table for folks from around the world to enjoy. I wanted to cook with Louisiana seafood and local produce; I wanted to forage for blackberries when they were in season and process okra when it was abundant and serve them both in ways that feel familiar to me. I wanted to bring the best of the bayou to the table and shine a light on what was happening to the place I grew up and the people who live there. Excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa M. Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photos by Denny Culbert.

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

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NEW ORLEANS

THE GUIDE SHOPPING & GALLERIES • DINING & NIGHTLIFE MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

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THE GUIDE SHOPPING H ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in handpicked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. artandeyesneworleansla.com. BILLY REID Designer Reid’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. billyreid.com.

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©DENNY CULBERT/ARNAUD'S

H BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. shopbungalows.com. CANAL PLACECL002741 Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. canalplacestyle.com. CENTURY GIRL A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous vintage fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. centurygirlvintage.com.

H CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM Watch master cigar makers at work in the city’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. cigarfactoryneworleans.com. CRESCENT CITY BOOKS Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a knowledgeable staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. crescentcitybooks.com.

“Let the Good Times Roll!”

DERBY POTTERY & TILE Former Newcomb College pottery instructor Mark Derby’s elegant hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. derbypottery.com. DIRTY COASTCL003672 Another T-shirt shop? You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast's slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. dirtycoast.com. FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKSCL0026148 In 1925 William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel "Soldiers’ Pay." First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction.

Come watch the masters at work OR DER FACTORY DI R ECT ON LI N E www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com | 1-800-550-0775

Reserve a cigar maker for your next special event! V ISIT OUR LOCATIONS Cigar Factory New Orleans 415 Decatur St. & 206 Bourbon St., NOLA

@cigarfactoryneworleans |

Cigar Factory Social Club Destin, FL

facebook.com/NOLACIGARS

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THE GUIDE 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. faulknerhousebooks.net. FLEURTY GIRLCL002 These popular boutiques are loaded with a wide selection of Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. fleurtygirl.net.

A spirited sanctuary for cocktails, French fare and easy elegance. 544 Carondelet Street

barmarilou.com

@barmarilou

GOORIN BROS. HATSCL0062431 New Orleans’ newest hat shop dates to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish shops are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. goorin.com. HOME MALONE These bright, cheery shops are filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home décor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148. 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. homemalonenola.com. HOVÉCL002619 Hové is a European-style parfumeur that has been in business for more than 70 years. Among the fragrances are New Orleans-inspired scents. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. hoveparfumeur.com. JOHN FLUEVOGCL002 "Unique soles for unique souls." This forward-thinking footwear shop is a "shoe-in" among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. fluevog.com..

KREWE 2 This locally designed eyewear line, with styles named for New Orleans streets, has garnered a large national following. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. krewe.com. H LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contemporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based on the fleur de lis. The shop also offers Crescent City-themed charms. 524 Royal St., 504.522.1305. lapetitfleur.com. LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTERCL007341 A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside houses more than 120 shops, including Coach, J. Crew, Macy’s and Sephora. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. lakesideshopping.com. LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORYCL0026150 There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. louisianamusicfactory.com. MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great-grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are offered. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. madameaucoinperfume.com. MIGNON FAGETCL002718 Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious

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THE GUIDE stones and precious metals, for four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. mignonfaget.com. NOLA BOARDSCL007341 Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards and other locally made culinary products are also available. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. nolaboards.com. NOLA KIDSCL002618 This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. shopnolakids.com. THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK631 Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Canal Street, Riverwalk is home to the nation’s first urban outlet center. Coach and Nordstrom Rack are among the 70-plus retailers featured. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. riverwalkmarketplace.com. PAPIER PLUMECL0026174 It’s only fitting that the French Quarter, with its rich literary history, would have a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals and other desk accessories are offered. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. papierplume.com.

PIPPEN LANECL00153 Go ahead and spoil the child at this upscale boutique, which features designer kids’ clothing, along with educational toys, books and gift items. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. pippenlane.com. PORTER LYONSL001564 Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her NOLA roots that inspire her creations. 631 Toulouse St., 504.518.4945. porterlyons.com. H PROMENADE FINE FABRICSCL003248 Popped a button on the plane? Promenade stocks the largest selection of quality ribbon and buttons in the South. The shop features a large inventory of elegant and unusual fabrics from the couture houses, including velvets, silks, taffetas and more. 1520 St. Charles Ave., 504.522.1488. promenadefinefabrics.com.

Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm

New Orleans, LA 70130

SCRIPTURACL0026184 A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, journals and travel diaries. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. scriptura.com. SUNDAY SHOPCL002618 White walls, open shelving and ample floor space showcase a large and eclectic collection of clean-lined housewares, furniture, bedding, art, fragrance and more. 2025 Magazine St., 504.342.2087. sundayshop.co. TRASHY DIVACL00153 Original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, linge-

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

LOOK BOOK An array of must-have items—both decorative and functional, indulgent and essential, trendy and traditional— for your shopping pleasure.

B U N GA LOWS Bungalows, Julie Vos designed and handcrafted to the standards of fine jewelry. Made of semi-precious stones, pearl and imported glass, handset in 24k gold plate. A variety of collections available at Bungalow’s, 610 Chartres Street (504) 522.9222 www.ShopBungalows.com

ART & EYES Art & Eyes, NINA MUR, hand made, sustainable, wood, resin and metal sunnies from Madrid. $415. ART & EYES is eyewear heaven. Over 1700 frames, from independent makers, all unique. 3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494 artandeyesnola.com

W EL L INGTON & COM PANY Wellington & Company, The extensive fine jewelry collection at Wellington & Company features Antique, Estate and Contemporary Designs such as these Art Deco style pieces in yellow and white gold with Onyx, Lapis and Agate. Wellington & Co., 505 Royal Street, (504) 525-4855, www.wcjewelry.com

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART (NOMA) Bring a true piece of Nola art home for the holidays. New Orleans Museum of Art’s Gift Shop is full of unique treasure, like this New Orleans Skyline Collection Dinnerware series exclusively designed for NOMA.One Collins C. Diboll Circle, City Park, New Orleans, Louisiana 70124, 504.658.4100, noma.org/shop

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS You can discover the authentic stories of the city at The Historic New Orleans Collection. With two campuses in the heart of the French Quarter, The Historic New Orleans Collection offers guided tours, dynamic interactive experiences, free exhibitions, beautiful books, and a public research center. 520 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 523-4662. Visit www.hnoc.org for the current schedule of activities or to make your reservations in advance.

WELLINGTON & COMPANY BU NGALOWS

Wellington & Company, In addition to watches and fine jewelry, Wellington

Bungalows, Vibrant handbags with natural leathers, Handmade

& Company features a collection of original paintings by contemporary

details and perfectly unmatched prints, 610 Chartres Street

artists such as Maya Eventov. Wellington & Co., 505 Royal Street,

(504) 522.9222 www.ShopBungalows.com

(504) 525-4855, www.wcjewelry.com

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THE GUIDE

THE GUIDE rie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. trashydiva.com. WEINSTEIN'SCL0026184 Elegant European women's wear, from casual to formal. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. weinsteinsinc.com.

Fresh Oysters, Southern Inspired cocktails and daily happy hour specials Tuesday–Sunday, 4–6pm. 504.930.3071 seaworthynola.com

H WELLINGTON & COMPANYCL007893 This shop is devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. wcjewelry.com.

DINING ALMA006721 Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and house-made crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. B, L (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. eatalmanola.com. THE AMERICAN SECTOR006721 American. The National WWII Museum’s in-house café serves up homey classics—burgers, hot dogs, grilled cheese sandwiches—along with daily specials. L (daily). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. ww2eats.com. H ANTOINE’SCL002714 Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of

founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (Th-M); Br (Su). 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. antoines.com. ARNAUD'SCL002714 Creole. Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. arnauds.com. AVOCL007293 Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragout and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. restaurantavo.com. BACCHANALCL00271 Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (W-M). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. bacchanalwine.com. BAYONACL00271 American. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with blackbean cakes and sautéed sweetbreads. L (F-Sa), D (W-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. bayona.com.

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THE GUIDE BLUE GIANTCL002719 Chinese. Egg rolls, crab rangoons, shrimp wontons, duck lo mein, Mandarin chicken. Craving contemporary Chinese-American? Dig in. D (Th-M). 1300 Magazine St., 504.582.9060. bluegiantnola.com. BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. bourbonhouse.com. BRENNAN'SCL04 Creole. The legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L (Th-M), D (Th-Su). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. brennansneworleans.com. BRIGTSEN’SCL00174 Creole. Secluded in the Riverbend neighborhood, Brigtsen’s has a lower profile than many other first-rank local restaurants. A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (Tu-Sa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. brigtsens.com. BROUSSARD'SCL00271 Creole. One of the French Quarter’s

premier fine dining spots with one its most elegant courtyards. The kitchen turns out long-popular classic, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (Th-Sa); Br (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. broussards.com. BYWATER AMERICAN BISTROCL002719 American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Sweet potato soup with pecan gremolata, jerk chicken with semolina dumplings; try the curried rabbit. D (W-Sa). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. bywateramericanbistro.com. H CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these casual cafés serve up small bites in a Big Easy atmosphere. Dive into Cajun classics, such as jambalaya and gumbo. 311 Bourbon St.; 334-B Royal St.; 600 Decatur St.; 622 Canal St.; 504.500.4370. cafebeignet.com. CAFÉ DU MONDECL002718 Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-do. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open 7 am-10 pm (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544 15 Dreyfous Dr. (City Park), 504.766.0250. cafedumonde.com. H CAFÉ NORMANDIECL003248 CL0French. This National WWII Museum eatery salutes France with onion soup, steak frites and seafood fricassee, while also offering Americanized fare such as burgers and wedge salads. B, L, D (daily).

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THE GUIDE 1000 Magazine St. (in the Higgins Hotel), 504.528.1941. higginshotelnola.com. CANE & TABLECL04 Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. caneandtablenola.com. CENTRAL GROCERYCL002719 Deli. This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, mortadella, salami and ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. centralgrocery.com. THE CHLOECL002719 Louisiana. At this charming property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out stellar dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. thechloenola.com. H CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS CL0Steaks. Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu and easygoing atmosphere make the Chophouse a cut above. D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. chophousenola.com. COCHONCL001635 Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen

Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (Tu-Su). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. cochonrestaurant.com. COMMANDER’S PALACECL0028137 Creole. This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. commanderspalace.com. THE COMMONS CLUBCL002719 Southern. Chef Alex Harrell’s ramped-up regional fare is anything but common. Grilled okra with spiced harissa and peanut-sesame crumble, wagyu burgers with smoked gouda and bacon-fat aioli—see what we mean? D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 550 Baronne St. (in the Virgin Hotel), 833.791.7700 virginhotels.com/new-orleans. COMPÈRE LAPINCL0028137 Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such conch croquettes with pickled pineapple tartar sauce, spiced pig ears with smoked aioli and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. comperelapin.com. COQUETTECL005781 Contemporary. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and

refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (Tu-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. coquettenola.com. COSTERACL001635 Spanish. This casual spot's Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (patatas bravas, beef shank-and-potato bombas), along with larger entrees such as hanger steak with salsa verde. D (W-Su). 4838 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. costerarestaurant.com. THE COUNTRY CLUBCL0027194 Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates, salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as a 20-ounce ribeye for two. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. thecountryclubneworleans.com. H COURT OF TWO SISTERSCL0027194 Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting make for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. courtoftwosisters.com. H CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSECL0027194 Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze. L, D (daily).

527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. crescentcitybrewhouse.com. DOMENICACL001635 Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagna Bolognese. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. domenicarestaurant.com. DORIS METROPOLITANCL006507 Steaks. A stunning steakhouse featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. The hunger-inducing menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. D (W-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. dorismetropolitan.com. ELIZABETH STREET CAFÉCL0027194 Vietnamese. This colorful Austin offshoot’s in-house bakery turns out fresh baguettes for an all-day menu of banh mi sandwiches, spring rolls and noodle bowls. Escargot drenched in curry butter? Bring it on. B, L, D (daily). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. saintvincentnola.com. THE ELYSIAN BAR0657 Louisiana. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as Frenchrolled omelets. L, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6768. theelysianbar.com. EMERIL’SCL001638 Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse

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THE GUIDE empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. emerils.com. GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements made, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. galatoires.com. GRILL ROOM Contemporary. The Windsor Court Hotel's fine dining room is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the restaurant specializes in American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, L (M-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. windsorcourthotel.com. GRIS-GRIS Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook (Saint John) whips up elevated New Orleans standards, such as oyster-and-caviar po’ boys and sugarcane-seared duck. L (M-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.024. grisgrisnola.com. H GUMBO SHOP001640 028105Creole. Housed in a circa-1794 building, the Gumbo Shop features traditional and contemporary Creole cuisine, including several types of gumbo, étouffée, jambalaya and other Louisiana favorites. L, D (daily).

630 St. Peter St., 504.525.1486. gumboshop.com. GW FINSCL0028103 Seafood. At this restaurant, the local obsession with seafood reaches global heights: Fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. gwfins.com. HERBSAINTCL001640 French. One of the city's premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. herbsaint.com. IRENE'S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. irenesnola.com. JEWEL OF THE SOUTHCL001470 This hidden gem pays homage to a 19th-century restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal small-plate menu. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. jewelnola.com.

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THE GUIDE H JOSEPHINE ESTELLE001640 Italian. At this casual eatery, the arancini incorporates peas, mozzarella and mortadella, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. josephineestelle.com. JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design (smoked mirrors, antiques, neon). But the menu is full-on French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. justinenola.com.

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LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. laboulangerienola.com. LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. lapetitegrocery.com. LATITUDE 29CL001640 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff "Beachbum" Berry's new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic's.

Classic tiki cocktails are paired with "PolynAsian" fare. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. latitude29nola.com. LILETTECL001640 French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. liletterestaurant.com. MAX WELL Vegetarian. The plant-based menu at this health-conscious café features “nutrient-dense ingredients to promote maximum wellness.” Translation: fresh fruit and veg juices, silky soups and spectacular salads and bowls. L, D (M-Sa). 6101 Magazine St., 504.301.0510. maxwellneworleans.com. MAYPOPCL002861 Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Dig into coconut milk-braised rabbit with white-bean dumplings or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. D (Th-M). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. maypoprestaurant.com. MERILCL002861 International. Emeril Lagasse’ casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad to Korean short ribs. L (F), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. emerilsrestaurants.com/meril.

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THE GUIDE MISS RIVER Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and salt-crusted snapper. B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. fourseasons.com/neworleans. MISTER MAO Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from ginger salad and escargot Wellington to Kashmiri chile fried chicken and octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-M). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. mistermaonola.com. MOSQUITO SUPPER CLUB0173 Louisiana. Bayou-born chef Melissa Martin serves up family-style Cajun dinners with side of Louisiana culinary history. Think shrimp-and-okra gumbo and fried stuffed crabs. D (Th-Su). 3824 Dryades St., 504.494.9777. mosquitosupperclub.com. MR. B’S BISTROCL002861 Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is another outstanding Brennan family restaurant. Don't miss the barbecued shrimp. L, D (W-Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. mrbsbistro.com. N7CL002861 French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named for France's Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa). 1117 Montegut St. n7nola.com.

NAPOLEON HOUSECL002891 Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, gumbo, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. L, D (W-Su). 500 Chartres St., 504.524. napoleonhouse.com. PALADAR 511CL00379 Contemporary. California cooking NOLA-style means frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. paladar511.com. PATOISCL00173 Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. patoisnola.com. PÊCHECL00379 Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski (the award-winning team behind Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt's simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (W-M). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. pecherestaurant.com. PLUCK WINE BAR & RESTAURANTCL00173 Eclectic. A modern wine bar geared to both the novice and the guru. Expected eats (charcuterie) and

FRENCH QUARTER PATIO DINING

AUTHENTIC CREOLE CUISINE IN THE CASUAL ELEGANCE OF A RESTORED 1795 CREOLE COTTAGE AND GARDEN PATIO.

Monday - Wednesday 11am to 9pm Thursday - Sunday 11am to 10pm

630 St. Peter St | (504) 525-1486

.com

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THE GUIDE surprises (flash-fried frog legs) make pairing easy. L, D (Tu-Sa). 722 Girod St. pluckwines.com. RALPH'S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Th-F), D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. ralphsonthepark.com. RESTAUARANT AUGUSTL007513 French. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (W-Su). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. restaurantaugust.com. RESTAURANT R'EVOLUTION Louisiana. Chefs Rick Tramonto and John Folse are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. D (W-Su). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. revolutionnola.com. RUTH'S CHRIS STEAKHOUSEL0028134 Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. ruthschris.com. SABACL00173 Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a

menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. eatwithsaba.com. SAFFRON NOLACL007513 Indian. Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. saffronnola.com. SAINT JOHNCL00379 Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze—everything old is delicious again. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. saintjohnnola.com. SAN LORENZO Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and woodfired steaks. Great wine list. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. saintvincentnola.com. H SEAWORTHY Seafood. This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a great wine selection round out the menu. D (Tu-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. seaworthynola.com.

SEEDCL00173 Vegetarian. Specializing in locally sourced organic fare, Seed mixes and matches natural ingredients to create tofu po’boys, crispy cauliflower steaks with katsu sauce and more. L, D (daily). 1330 Prytania St., 504.417.7333. seedneworleans.com. ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANYL0028134 Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. L (M-F). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. stjamescheese.com. ST. ROCH MARKETCL004705 Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this beautifully restored marketplace features 24 steel columns and numerous food vendors, along with a bar and indoor/ outdoor seating. B, L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. strochmarket.com. SYLVAINCL007513 Contemporary. Chandeliers dangle overhead at this hip gastro pub as diners sip hand-crafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as pan-roasted scallops and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. sylvainnola.com. TABLEAUCL0TH0E281 Creole. Housed in Le Petit Theatre, this Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Br (W-Su); D (W-Sa). 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. tableaufrenchquarter.com.

TOUPS’ MEATERYCL0028134 Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and blackeyed pea salad. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. toupsmeatery.com. TRUE FOOD KITCHENCL004705 Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. truefoodkitchen.com. TSUNAMICL0028134 Sushi. At this sprawling sushi emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. servingsushi.com. TUJAGUE’SCL004705 Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. Br (F-Su), D (W-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. tujaguesrestaurant.com. TURKEY AND THE WOLFCL0028134 Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this acclaimed, casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything

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CRESCENT CIT Y BREWHOUSE

STARTERS Fried Alligator Seafood Gumbo Boudin Balls

SMALL PL ATES Seafood Cheesecake Crab Cake

GOURMET SANDWICHES Decatur St. Burger Alligator Sausage Poboy Fried Shrimp Poboy Located in the heart of the French Quarter, the Crescent City Brewhouse is a 17-barrel state-of-the-art brewery, which incorporates Old World values and modern technology. Crescent City Brewhouse brings the freshest beer to our guests as they enjoy nightly live jazz that emanates through the building. Guests can also enjoy freshly shucked oysters at the bar and ever-changing, local art adorning the walls. In addition to our a la carte service, we offer the perfect space for intimate meetings of 30 guests to large corporate celebrations of 1,000.

MAINS Crabmeat Stuffed Shrimp Jambalaya Risotto Brewhouse Ribs Shrimp & Grits

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New Orleans Trio

3/9/20 2/12/20 12:54 8:31 PM AM

THE GUIDE bagel” crunchies. L (daily). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. turkeyandthewolf.com. ZASUCL004705 Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, tuna crudo, sea scallops with roasted grapes. D (W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. zasunola.com.

GALLERIES & ANTIQUES A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. agallery.com. ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. angelakinggallery.com. ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Antieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and at her New Orleans galleries. Each of her “fabric pictures” feature hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. antieaugallery.com.

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432-434 Julia St, 504.522.1999. arthurrogergallery.com. ASHLEY LONGSHORECL001308 Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle magazine calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. ashleylongshore.com. H BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS 001The majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. 316 Royal St., 504.552.4311. 318 Royal St., 504.522.4311. bevolo.com. H BRASS MONKEY Don’t be fooled by its size: This tiny storefront offers one of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the French Quarter, along with antique walking sticks and other collectibles. 407 Royal St., 504.581.0688. H CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s body of work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter

enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. Limited-edition photos and giclée prints are offered. 827 Royal St, 504.592.9886. craigtracy.com. H ELLIOTT GALLERY283 Fine contemporary and modern art from world-renowned artists is the standard here. Artists represented include Theo Tobiasse, James Coignard, Max Papart, Nissan Engel, Garrick Yrondi, David Schneuer, Petra Seipel, Picasso, Miró and Chagall. 540 Royal St., 504.523.3554. elliottgallery.com. H FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and interesting home accents. 215 Royal St. and 637 Royal St., 888.524.9067. lightingneworleans.com. FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. frankrelle.com. FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. gofrenchantiques.com.

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERYCL0028134 This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. jonathanferraragallery.com. H KEIL'S ANTIQUESCL001306 Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. keilsantiques.com. LEMIEUX GALLERIESCL001308 Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. lemieuxgalleries.com. M.S. RAU INC.00136 This third-generation family business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. rauantiques.com. H MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limited-edition graphics by such famed artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol and Erté, among others. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. martinlawrence.com.

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THE GUIDE MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERYCL001304 Contemporary is the key word at this sleek space. Exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists are featured. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. martinechaissongallery.com. MICHALOPOULOSCL0028134 The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. michalopoulos.com. MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERYCL001304 Renowned photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his works are offered. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. modernistcuisinegallery.com. H MOSS ANTIQUESCL001306 Fine art objects fill this gallery, which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise is primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. mossantiques.com. MYTH GALLERYCL0028134 Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded creations will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. myth-gallery.com. RODRIGUE STUDIOCL0028134 This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silk-

screens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. georgerodrigue.com. H ROYAL ANTIQUES English, French and Continental furniture from the 17th through 19th centuries is the specialty of this fourth-generation dealer. Antique and estate jewelry is also featured. 309 Royal St., 504.524.7033. royalantiques.com. TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade, artist Osborne has garnered a growing national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. terranceosborne.com. H VINTAGE 329 \AA mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. vintage329.com. WINDSOR FINE ARTCL0028134 This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in postwar contemporary art. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. windsorfineart.com. WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES00136 Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore? Francophiles delight

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THE GUIDE in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. wirthmoreantiques.com.

NIGHTLIFE ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75CL001456 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. arnauds.com. H BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisian-accented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. barmarilou.com. CHANDELIER BAR The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 16-foot, 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. fourseasons.com/neworleans. DOUBLE DEALERCL001456 Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy offers curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of live entertainment. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.300.0212. doubledealernola.com. HOT TINCL001456 Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the author once stayed here), this chic space on the roof of the

Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. hottinbar.com. HOUSE OF BLUESCL001456 The local branch of the national chain consistently tops best-of lists by mixing touring acts with New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. hob.com. THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSECL001456 This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured; retro burlesque on Fridays. 300 Bourbon St., 504.533.2299. sonesta.com. H KILROY'SCL001360 The Higgins Hotel’s retro-cool bar serves up a large selection of rums, WWII-themed cocktails and Southern-accented small plates (crab beignets, crawfish flatbread). 1000 Magazine St.,504.528.1941. higginshotelnola.com. LAFITTE'S BLACKSMITH SHOPCL001470 A historic cottage/bar dating to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. lafittesblacksmithshop.com.

PAT O’BRIEN’SCL0014 Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and its famous fountain.

718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. patobriens.com. THE PEACOCK ROOM01456 It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few cocktails, along with some blue crab pimento cheese. 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. hotelfontenot.com. PRESERVATION HALLCL001467 Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. preservationhall.com. SAZERAC BARCL001456 1930s elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans. 123 Baronne St., 504.648.1200. therooseveltneworleans.com. SNUG HARBORCL001470 An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. snugjazz.com. THE SPOTTED CATCL001470 This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the night. 623 Frenchmen St. spottedcatmusicclub.com. STAGE DOOR CANTEENCL001456 Swing back to a bygone era at this retro-themed WWII Museum

venue, which mounts live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. stagedoorcanteen.org. THREE MUSESCL001456 A veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, great small plates and sandwiches and live music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. 3musesnola.com. TIPITINA’SCL001360 The legendary features an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.84777. tipitinas.com.

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS ARMSTRONG PARKCL001359 Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is also home to the Mahalia Jackson Center for the Performing Arts and Congo Square, where jazz is said to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. H AUDUBON AQUARIUMCL001360 From its perch on the banks of the Mississippi, New Orleans’ aquarium is home to marine life and birds from all across the globe. Highlights include the Caribbean reef tunnel, rare white alligators, sea otters, penguins and the Parakeet Pointe exhibit. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. auduboninstitute.org. AUDUBON PARKCL001360 Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks in this beautiful glade. On the St.

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THE GUIDE Charles streetcar line (stop 36). St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. auduboninstitute.org. H AUDUBON ZOOL001360 New Orleans’ world-renowned zoo is an award-winning showcase of creatures great and small, and a destination for endless exploration and family fun. Highlights include the “Louisiana Swamp” exhibit, white tigers, sea lions and southern white rhinos. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. auduboninstitute.org. CAESARS SUPERDOME AND SMOOTHIE KING CENTERCL001359 Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome is the largest covered arena in the world. Its smaller cousin, the Smoothie King Center, is home to the Pelicans, the city’s NBA team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. caesarssuperdome.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. smoothiekingcenter.com. CITY PARKCL001360 Nearly double the size of Central Park, 1,300-acre City Park and is home to the world’s largest stand of mature live oaks. Numerous activities are offered, from biking and boating to golf and tennis. The Carousel Gardens features a century-old wooden carousel. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. neworleanscitypark.com. CIVIC THEATRECL0068915 New Orleans’ oldest theater, dating to 1906, has hosted everything from vaudeville shows to discos. The 1,200-seat venue now hosts concerts. 510 O’Keefe Ave., 504.272.0865. civicnola.com.

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELERCL0068915 Take a spin on the Mississippi aboard this riverboat powered by a 24-foot paddlewheel. Chalmette Battlefield and dinner jazz tours are featured. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. creolequeen.com. CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or climb the “rusty rainbow” footbridge at Piety and Chartres, and stroll this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater. crescentparknola.org. FRENCH MARKETCL America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. frenchmarket.org. GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of famed New Orleans architect James Gallier Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. hgghh.org. H GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line has been showcasing New Orleans to visitors since 1924, whether by motor coach, on foot or aboard an authentic riverboat. Tour options feature nearby swamps and bayous, plantations, city highlights, riverboat cruises, French Quarter and Garden District walking tours, a cocktail and historic bar tour and evening outings. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. graylineneworleans.com.

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THE GUIDE HARRAH'S CASINOCL001359 The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots and 104 table games. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. harrahsneworleans.com. HELICO NEW ORLEANSCL001359 Get above it all on a helicopter tour of the city and surrounding area. Custom flights and specialty excursions are also offered. Lakefront Airport, 6001 Stars and Stripes Blvd., 504.291.8999. heli-co.com. HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSECL001359 Built in 1831, this house/museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past and features the French Quarter’s only horse stable. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. hgghh.org. H HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTIONCL000014 Combining a museum, research center and publishing house, the Historic New Orleans Collection is dedicated to studying, preserving and sharing the Gulf South region’s history and culture. The museum offers changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the area’s multilayered past. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. hnoc.org. HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENSCL001359 Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. . 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, 225.473.9380. houmashouse.com. JACKSON SQUARECL001359 The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President

Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur and St. Ann streets. H JAMNOLACL0 PATPart Crescent City cultural museum/ part Pee-wee’s Playhouse, this innovative attraction takes visitors on a vibrant visual journey through local life, as envisioned by 20 area artists. 2832 Royal St. jamnola.com. H JEFFERSON PARISHCL0027194 Just minutes from New Orleans, Jefferson Parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. Adventurers will be drawn to the area’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; shoppers will find what they are after at it’s many malls and boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport, Metairie offers a bustling business community and Jean Lafitte counts the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve. jeffparish.net. LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMSCL001359 The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of venues in the French Quarter: the Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère, home to a permanent Mardi Gras exhibit; the 1850 House, which explores antebellum life; and the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint. Various locations, 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org. MARDI GRAS WORLDCL00140 It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. mardigrasworld.com.

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCECL001359 Interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. msje.org. H NATIONAL WWII MUSEUMCL0027194 Designated by Congress as America’s official World War II museum, this rapidly expanding facility explores the nation’s experience during wartime. From the Normandy invasion to the Pacific campaign to life on the home front, this award-winning museum pays homage to those who fought and lived through the titanic global struggle. The U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center spotlights wartime aircraft, while the Victory Theater showcases the 4-D film “Beyond All Boundaries” and the Campaigns of Courage pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and “Road to Tokyo” exhibits. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. nationalww2museum.org. NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUMCL001359 This repository of African American art, culture and history is in the Faubourg Tremé, the nation’s oldest Black neighborhood. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254 . noaam.org. NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUMCL001359 The world’s largest collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. nolajazzmuseum.org.

H NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ARTCL00 One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings, along with rotating touring exhibits. The free Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers works by major 19th- and 20th-century artists. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park) 504.658.4100. noma.org. NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUMCL001359 This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. pharmacymuseum.org. H NEW ORLEANS STEAMBOAT COMPANY03807 The grandeur of the Mississippi River and the mystique of New Orleans history and heritage combine for memorable experiences aboard the steamboat Natchez and the riverboat City of New Orleans. Choose from harbor cruises or a dinner jazz cruise. Cruises depart from behind Jax Brewery. 2 Canal St., 504.569.1401. steamboatnatchez.com. OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART9 This Smithsonian affiliate provides a fresh look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the region’s cultural diversity. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9600. ogdenmuseum.org.

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NEW ORLEANS SIGHTSEEING TOURS …local Experts Since 1924!

Cocktail

Cemetery

Garden District

Swamp

Plantation

Additional Gray Line Tours: City • Cemetery & Voodoo Double Plantation • Garden District • Ghosts & Spirits • Groups

Reservations: 504.569.1401 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

THE GUIDE OLD URSULINES CONVENTCL001359 Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. stlouiscathedral.org. ORPHEUM THEATERCL001359 This jaw-dropping century-old, 1,500 seat theater features two balcony levels, VIP box seating and six bars— some located in the stairwells. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4871. orpheumnola.com.

Discover where New Orleans goes to eat & unwind.

Just next door to New Orleans, Jefferson Parish is a seafood lover’s delight. While in Jefferson, stroll the boardwalks and nature trails, explore the wetlands aboard an airboat, camp under the stars, or relax as you fish the waters of the Barataria. Our diverse culture and cuisine make this a destination worth savoring. Your adventure awaits! A Clean & Safe Destination, we are committed to the safety and well-being of our community and visitors. For more information, visit www.visitjeffersonparish.com/pledge

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PONTALBA BUILDINGSCL001359 Erected in 1851, the stately red-brick townhouses flaking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. PORT OF NEW ORLEANSCL001359 More than a million passengers pass through the Crescent City’s cruise terminal each year, making it one of the most popular destinations in the nation to embark/disembark. 1350 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.2551. portnola.com. SAENGER THEATERCL001359 This circa-1927 baroque beauty plays host to the popular Broadway Across America series, in addition to major music and comedy acts. 1111 Canal St., 504.287.0351. saengernola.com.

SAZERAC HOUSECL001359 This free, 48,000 sq.-ft. facility toasts “the official cocktail of New Orleans” with a variety of hands-on exhibits. Explore the evolution of city’s cocktail cultural, while nabbing samples along the way. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. sazerachouse.com. SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUMCL001359 Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFab features exhibits, along with cooking classes. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. southernfood.org. ST. AUGUSTINE CATHOLIC CHURCHCL001359 Founded by free people of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. 1210 Gov. Nicolls St., 504.525.5934. staugchurch.org. ST. LOUIS CATHEDRALCL001359 Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited by Pope John Paul II in 1987. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585. stlouiscathedral.org. WHITNEY PLANTATIONCL001359 Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, 225.265.3300. whitneyplantation.com.

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ADVERTIS ER I N D E X SHOPPING

Chophouse New Orleans ............................... 1

Fischer-Gambino.............................................1 9

ATTRACTIONS

Art & Eyes ................................................ 6 & 38

Court of Two Sisters .................................... 44

Keil’s Antiques.......................................... i2 & 3

Audubon Aquarium........................................51

Bungalows ...................................... 37, 38 & 39

Crescent City Brewhouse..............................47

Martin Lawrence Gallery ......................3 & 21

Audubon Zoo ...................................................51

Cigar Factory New Orleans ......................35

Gumbo Shop................................................... 45

Moss Antiques................................................... 3

French Market. ............................................... 43

La Petit Fleur ...................................................19

Josephine Estelle .......................................... 40

Royal Antiques.................................................. 3

Gray Line Tours...............................................5 3

Promenade Fine Fabrics ............................37

Seaworthy ........................................................ 40

Vintage 329.................................C4, 2, 3 & 36

Historic New Orleans Collection ..............29

GALLERIES & ANTIQUES

NIGHTLIFE

DINING

Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights ....................... 2

Bar Marilou .......................................................36

National WWII Museum................................. 5

Antoine’s Restaurant .....................................41

Brass Monkey..................................................... 2

Kilroy’s ............................................................... 43

New Orleans Museum of Art. ........... 8 & 39

Café Beignet ...................................................... 9

Craig Tracy Gallery .........................................11

Café Normandy.............................................. 43

Elliott Gallery .................................................. 49

JAMNOLA .........................................................37 Jefferson Parish. ............................................ 54

New Orleans Streamboat Co.................... C 3

Wellington & Company.................7, 38 & 39

WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK

Later, Gator

Wyoming Quinn and F. Scott Greenfield’s “Bling Bayou” installation, part of JAMNOLA, an innovative immersive attraction in the Marigny neighborhood. The 12-room maze takes visitors on a vibrant, visual journey through local life, as envisioned by 20 area artists.

W H E R E T R AVE LE R ® GU E STBO O K

PARTING SHOT

Cruise. Dine. Dance. Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Day & Evening Jazz cruises; Dinner, Lunch & Brunch options

Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises

504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com

CHANEL vintage collection

329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262 Follow us shopvintage329

New Orleans Guestbook 2021-2022

Articles inside

FIRST LOOK

ART IN THE OPEN

GOOD EARTH, GOOD EATIN’

COSTUME CULTURE