Nashville
NASHVILLE’S BEST SHOPPING Over 100 Stores & Restaurants STORES: ABERCROMBIE & FITCH AMERICAN EAGLE BREITLING
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COLTS CHOCOLATE CO.
BROOKS BROTHERS
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EVERYTHING BUT WATER •
CRATE & BARREL •
EXPRESS
FOREVER 21
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FREE PEOPLE
GUCCI
J.JILL
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JOHNSTON & MURPHY
JOHNNY WAS
L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE
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GUS MAYER
LOFT
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LUSH FRESH HANDMADE COSMETICS MORPHE
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SOMA
SUNDANCE
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OMEGA
TIFFANY & CO.
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AERIE
ALDO
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ALTAR’D STATE
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TOMMY JOHN
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DAVID YURMAN •
FABLETICS
HEADS UP HAIR SALON
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JOS. A. BANK
PANDORA
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TALK N FIX
TORY BURCH
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TUMI
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AMAZON BOOKS
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JOURNEYS
PELOTON
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EVEREVE
KIEHL’S SINCE 1851
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MARMI
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SEE EYEWEAR •
UNTUCKIT
CLEARORTHO
EILEEN FISHER
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VANS
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GOLDEN GOOSE
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INDOCHINO
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J. CREW
KATE SPADE NEW YORK
LOVESAC
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LUCKY BRAND
MICHAEL KORS
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MOLLY GREEN
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SEPHORA
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SOFT SURROUNDINGS
THE CONTAINER STORE •
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FAST-FIX JEWELRY AND WATCH REPAIRS
LOUIS VUITTON
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TEMPUR-PEDIC ULTA
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DRY GOODS
CLAIRE’S
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HOLLIE RAY BOUTIQUE
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MADEWELL
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CHICO’S
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GAP GAPKIDS/BABYGAP
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LILLY PULITZER
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MAC COSMETICS
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SUNGLASS HUT
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CASPER
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GNC LIVE WELL
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LENSCRAFTERS
PADDY O’ FURNITURE •
BURBERRY
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FREEBIRD BY STEVEN
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BUCKLE
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DAKOTA WATCH
GREEN HILL MARKET •
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ANN TAYLOR • APPLE • ARHAUS • ARITZIA* • ATHLETA • AVEDA • BANANA REPUBLIC • BOGNAR & PICCOLINI
BRIGHTON
FOOT LOCKER
ABERCROMBIE KIDS
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THE NORTH FACE
VENETIAN NAIL SPA
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WARBY PARKER
WHITE HOUSE BLACK MARKET • WILLIAMS-SONOMA • WOOPS! MACARONS & COOKIES • WOW BROW • YZ’S BARBERSHOP
RESTAURANTS: AUNTIE ANNE’S COCO’S ITALIAN MARKET
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BURGERFI*
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CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL
GOOZY DESSERT BAR & CAFÉ
NORDSTROM GRILL • NORTH ITALIA • RH CAFÉ
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STARBUCKS
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JAMBA
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CAVA
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NOODLES & COMPANY
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*Opening in 2021/2022. Visit shopgreenhills.com for our latest store opening information
ONLY 15 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN NASHVILLE
SHOPGREENHILLS.COM
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ZARA
CINNABON
NORDSTROM EBAR
THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY
NORDSTROM • DILLARD’S • MACY’S • RH NASHVILLE GALLERY
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s n e p p a h t a Wh in Nashville
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CONTENTS 06 WHAT’S NEW IN NASHVILLE 14 NASHVILLE TOP 20 28 AROUND THE CORNER These destinations are just a hop, skip and a jump from downtown Nashville.
36 NASHVILLE FOR LOVERS Move over songbirds. Here’s how to spend a romantic day in Music City.
38 RETAIL THERAPY Everything old is new again at Nashville’s hippest shopping centers.
40 STEP INTO NASHVILLE’S HISTORY BOOKS Travel from Fort Nashborough to Music City.
42 MUSIC CITY COCKTAIL TOUR Tour Nashville’s cocktail scene liquor by liquor, neighborhood by neigborhood.
The resilicency of Second Avenue knows no bounds.
48 TUNE INTO THE NATCHEZ TRACE Leave your headphones in the hotel as you explore this 10,000-year-old corridor.
52 EAST SIDE STORY The neighborhood of East Nashville rebounded from a series of natural disasters thanks to its tight-knit community.
56 Q&A: DR. PAUL KWAMI Meet the musical director of the Grammy Award-winning Fisk Jubilee Singers.
60 GET TO KNOW Explore Nashville’s neighborhoods like a local.
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ON THE COVER: THE MURAL AT MIRANDA LAMBERT’S NEW HONKY TONK, CASA ROSA. ©TC RESTAURANT GROUP
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ©PHILLIP FRYMAN; ©RYMAN AUDITORIUM; ©DISKIN CIDER
44 RESTORING THE SOUL OF NASHVILLE
JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
2814 12TH AVE SOUTH NASHVILLE, TN 37204
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Miranda Lambert’s Casa Rosa
©TC RESTAURANT GROUP
The first female country artist to have a honky tonk on Lower Broadway, Miranda Lambert dazzles with Casa Rosa. The four-level entertainment complex includes a Tex-Mex restaurant, a rooftop bar and the “Pink House,” home to Miranda’s music memorabilia, including the birdcage from her No. 1 song and CMA Video of the Year, “Bluebird,” clothing and set pieces, a spectacular rhinestone saddle modeled after her favorite from Billy Bob’s in Fort Worth and dozens of items that highlight milestones and special moments in her life. The pink theme spills over into the restaurant, with its chic pink booths and plenty of tequila, destined to become a party spot and go-to for bachelorette parties.
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National Museum of African American Music One of the best interactive museums in the country, you’ll play the Blues, R&B, Soul and more for hours at this new Lower Broadway draw. Headline a choir, produce a hit song, create your signature beat and much more through stations that abound throughout the museum—you could literally listen for hours as you learn more about an artist, hear about his or her influences and contemporaries and build playlists of your favorites. What’s best, you can save it all to the wristband you receive at entry, so you can listen to those playlists over and over again. It’s a great place to discover new favorites, pay homage to the greats you’ve always loved and get a new perspective on the origins of African American music.
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The National Museum of African American Music showcases the musical genres inspired, created or influenced by African Americans. Awards, costumes, personal effects and instruments are on display.
Follow the museum's timeline to learn about the evolution of AfricanAmerican music traditions, the emergence of blues and jazz, the Civil Rights movement and urban messages from the 1970s to the present.
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After a $2 million transformation this summer, Goo Goo Cluster has unveiled its new experiential Goo Goo Chocolate Co. on 3rd Avenue South. It offers interactive classes, a design-your-own confection station (seen above), a full-service chocolate bar and retail shop, premium chocolates, wine and whiskey pairings, boozy milkshakes and a rotating selection of seasonal treats. Are you a cereal lover and want to add Frosted Flakes, Rice Crispies or Cinnamon Toast Crunch to your Goo Goo? Done. Love rainbow sprinkles, potato chips and white chocolate chips? It's all there waiting for you—who knows, you could be creating the next iconic cluster!
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©PHILLIP FRYMAN
Goo Goo Cluster Shop & Dessert Bar
WHAT’S
©KERRY WOO
The Goo Goo Cluster was invented in 1912 by Nashville's Standard Candy Company and is a luscious blend of caramel, marshmallow nougat and fresh-roasted peanuts, covered with real milk chocolate.
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Sitting behind Ryman Auditorium and just a stone’s throw from the honky tonks on Lower Broadway, the gleaming new Fifth + Broadway is a feast for the senses. Here you’ll find the glorious Assembly Food Hall, a foodies' dream with with choices such as the Donut Distillery (don’t miss the Dreamsicle), Oke Poke, Coco’s Fresh Italian and an outpost of Prince’s Hot Chicken. Bars abound as well—head to the Terrace Bar for an intimate space with incomparable views of the Ryman and Batman Building; the concert bar has two locations to the left and right of the entertainment stage, so you won’t miss any of the action. Inside, wine lovers should visit Blush, while craft beer aficionados will find 32 on tap at Homegrown. Looking for some retail therapy? The eclectic lineup of shops includes Free People, Hollie Ray Boutique, Ariat and The Nash Collection.
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©THE FOOD HALL CO.
Fifth + Broadway
VOTED BEST ROOFTOP
FLORIDA GEORGIA LINE’S BK AND TYLER WELCOME YOU TO A WORLD-CLASS KITCHEN FUSING UNIQUE SOUTHERN-STYLE CUISINE WITH CALIFORNIA FLAIR. LOCATED ON THIRD AVE - STEPS OFF BROADWAY
FOOD • DRINK • MUSIC
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Music may be the city’s claim to fame, but it’s just the beginning. Go beyond the velvet ropes to explore these destinations that make up the fabric of the city.
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COURTESY BRC | GRAND OLE OPRY; PHOTO BY MATT BLAIR
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GRAND OLE OPRY The Grand Ole Opry has been a Nashville institution since 1925, when a radio announcer introduced fiddle player Uncle Jimmy Thompson on a new show called “The WSN Barn Dance.” Two performance spaces and 95 years later, it’s still the cement block that anchored Music City and has launched the careers of countless performers. Its newest backstage tour details that rich history with an immersive film in the custom-built Circle Room. The stories of country music’s most iconic artists come alive here; through the 23.1 surround-sound system with speakers in the ceiling and walls, you’ll you feel you’re in the middle of a concert. 2804 Opryland Drive, 800.733.6779, opry.com
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BELLE MEADE HISTORIC SITE & WINERY Belle Meade Historic Site & Winery got its start as a thoroughbred breeding farm; in its heyday it was one of the largest and wealthiest private estates in Nashville, covering 5,400 acres and producing some of the finest racehorses in the South. It’s now a museum; tours take you through the mansion, grounds and on-site winery that’s celebrating two centuries of production. The “Journey to Jubilee” tour highlights the African-American experience at Belle Meade and the impact these residents had on the Harding family and the property. 5025 Harding Pike, 615.356.0501, visitbellemeade.com
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TOP: ©MADAME TUSSAUDS NASHVILLE; BOTTOM: ©ISAAC ARJONILLA
The first of the iconic attraction’s museums to focus solely on the musicians who’ve shaped America’s musical landscape, Madame Tussauds Nashville introduces you not only to country music’s greatest stars, but those who are the very fabric of their genres— jazz, blues, rock and pop among them. Not only can you rub elbows with these superstars, but you can feel what it’s like to be in the recording booth, on the radio, backstage at a concert and more. Among the icons you’ll meet are Billie Holiday, Taylor Swift, Justin Bieber, Katy Perry, Ozzy Osborne, Minnie Pearl, Garth and Trisha. Inside Opry Mills, 615.485.4867, madametussauds.com/nashville
©VISIT MUSIC CITY
HONKY TONK HIGHWAY According to Visit Music City, a honky tonk is “an establishment that contains at least one rockin’ stage, cold beverages and a party that lasts all day, every day.” And indeed, this fun zone, which runs from 5th to 1st avenues on Lower Broadway, should be a stop for every visitor, even if you just walk down the sidewalk and listen to the music spilling out. When you do head inside (just try and resist), check out the multiple levels and bars before you settle in—many honky tonks have rooftops, such as Jason Aldean’s Kitchen + Rooftop Bar, Luke Bryan’s 32 Bridge (which has a stunning sushi bar on the rooftop), FGL House and newest in town, Miranda Lambert’s Casa Rosa. Most honky tonks open up at 10 am, and they’re just as fun in the daytime—the good food, good music and good cheer is always on tap. WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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MUSICIANS HALL OF FAME
JOHNNY CASH MUSEUM In 2013, Bill Miller, a mega-fan of the Man in Black, opened this tribute museum with the world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of artifacts and memorabilia from the musician’s life. Here, visitors can listen to Cash’s hits by decade, view his guitars, costumes, records, even handwritten lyrics, watch videos and much more. Next door, the Johnny Cash Kitchen & Saloon serves up unfussy Southern favorites; Swett’s Restaurant, a fixture in the Nashville community long adored by Johnny and June, prepares the eats. 119 3rd Ave. S., 615.256.1777, johnnycashmuseum.com
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TOP: ©BRENDA KEAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: ©JOHNNY CASH MUSEUM
The 60,000-square-foot Musicians Hall of Fame honors musicians regardless of genre. Exhibits are displayed geographically and tell stories of music in Memphis, Los Angeles, Muscle Shoals, Ala., Atlanta, New York and Detroit. Don’t miss the guitar that played the theme from “M.A.S.H.” or the drums used on Otis Redding’s “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay.” The GRAMMY Gallery teaches guests the art of songwriting, production, engineering and recording through interactive stations—take drum lessons from Ringo Starr or rap with Nelly. 401 Gay St., 615.244.3263, musicianshalloffame.com
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©RYMAN AUDITORIUM
First opened as the Union Gospel Tabernacle by Captain Tom Ryman (seen at left) in 1892, Ryman Auditorium, aka “The Mother Church of Country Music,” is best-known as the home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943-1974. After a fallow period, it regained its prominence in 1992, and today is considered one of the most acoustically sound venues for a concert in the United States. Its diverse stage lineup has included everyone from Emmylou Harris (who was instrumental in its conservation), Bruce Springsteen and the Jonas Brothers. Still a religious experience for many, tours include a photo of yourself on the hallowed stage. 116 Fifth Ave. N., 615.889.3060, ryman.com
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CHEEKWOOD This hidden gem boasts gorgeous botanic and cultivated gardens and woodland trails that cover the 55 acres surrounding the Cheek family’s 1930s Georgian mansion. It’s a place to seek your Zen— with or without a meditative session at the Shomu-en Japanese garden. The estate also serves as a museum of art, with a nod to botanical works, while the Carell Woodland Sculpture Trail boasts contemporary installations. 1200 Forrest Park Drive, 615.356.8000, cheekwood.org
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A museum that grew out of auto enthusiast Jeff Lane’s personal car collection, the Lane Motor Museum features 150 uncommon cars and motorcycles and is home to the largest European collection in the U.S. Lane’s passion is to seek out cars that are technically significant or uniquely different, and among the one-of-a-kind vehicles found here are microcars, amphibious vehicles, prototypes and more. The working museum’s goal is to keep all vehicles in running order. The architectural style of the 40,000-squarefoot open space complements the age of the cars represented, which range from the 1900s to today. 702 Murfreesboro Pike, 615.742.7445, lanemotormuseum.org
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LANE MOTOR MUSEUM
©AIMEE STUBBS PHOTOGRAPHY
NASHVILLE ZOO The ninth largest zoo in the United States by land mass, the Nashville Zoo at Grassmere has developed only 86 of its 188 acres— so new exhibits are continually on the horizon. Among the newest is the Tiger Crossroads, which features four-year-old female Sumatran tigers and an interactive training window that gives guests the closest possible view of these majestic animals. For additional unforgettable interactions, the zoo’s Backstage Pass (additional purchase required) lets you interact with giraffes and giant anteaters. Open to all guests is the Kangaroo Kickabout, in which you can get up-close and personal to red kangaroos, the largest mammals in Australia. 3777 Nolensville Pike, 615.833.1534. nashvillezoo.org
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RCA STUDIO B
BELMONT MANSION Built in 1850 as the summer home of Joseph and Adelicia Acklen (said to have been the wealthiest woman in America during the mid-1800s), this Italianate villa is furnished with original and period pieces. Two women from Philadelphia purchased the mansion in 1890 and opened a women’s school and used the mansion for dorms and classrooms. Today, Belmont University owns the mansion and operates it as a house museum. Of particular note are the works of art in the front entry hall, the majestic staircase leading to the Grand Salon and the Polk Clock, given by Sarah Polk, the widow of President James K. Polk. 1900 Belmont Blvd., 615.460.5459, belmontmansion.com
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TOP: ©VISIT MUSIC CITY; BOTTOM: ©EQROY/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE PAGE: ©ISAAC ARJONILLA
Located on world-famous Music Row, Studio B is the oldest surviving recording studio in Nashville where more than 35,000 songs were recorded—over 1,000 of which became Top 10 hits. Step inside the studio where many legendary artists (including Elvis Presley, Dolly Parton and Roy Orbison) created timeless music and made recording history. Tours depart daily from the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum to this destination known as the birthplace of the “Nashville Sound,” a style characterized its by background vocals and strings that put Nashville on the map as an international recording center. 222 5th Ave. S., 615.416.2001, studiob.org
PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
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For the genre’s mega-fans, this Nashville must-visit is the next best thing to heaven. A wall of gold records welcomes guests, while comprehensive galleries delve in deep to the world of the greats like Johnny, Jimmie, Patsy, Dolly, Faith and Taylor via rhinestone-studded costumes, hand-written lyrics, priceless mementos and more. You don’t have to be a mega-fan, though, to appreciate the experience. While you’re there, watch Hatch Show Print in action, or board a bus for a guided tour of Historic RCA Studio B. 222 5th Ave. S., 615.416.2001, countrymusichalloffame.org
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CENTENNIAL PARK A site for art lovers, recreation enthusiasts, history buffs and naturalists, the 132-acre Centennial Park is a treasure in the middle of the city. In addition to the iconic Parthenon (more on that at right), there’s a mile-long walking trail, sunken gardens, sand volleyball courts, a band shell and dog park. It also houses the Centennial Sportsplex, where visitors can go swimming, work out in the fitness center and play hockey in the ice arena. Those looking to engage with nature should follow the “If Trees Could Sing” exhibit, in which 18 Nashville artists have recorded videos talking (and sometimes singing) about trees, their benefits and how to take care of them. 2500 West End Ave., 615.862.8480, nashville.gov/ Parks-and-Recreation/Parks/Centennial-Park.aspx
Just a mile from Music City’s honky tonks, the Frist Art Museum sits in burgeoning Upper Broadway. It’s another kind of institution in Nashville, one where the community converges to view special exhibitions and take part in educational programs. Located in a building that once housed Nashville’s main post office (and is on the National Register of Historic Places), remnants of that former life can be seen today, in the high-ceiling sorting rooms that are now exhibition galleries, architectural features that express order and eagle sculptures, the official seal of the USPS. 919 Broadway, 615.244.3340, fristartmuseum.org
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FRIST ART MUSEUM
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The only full-scale replica of the Greek Parthenon in the world, this ornate structure was built in 1897 for Tennessee’s Centennial Exposition to honor Nashville as the “Athens of the South.” It serves as a model of classical architecture, full of columns, friezes and colonnades. The plaster replicas of the Parthenon Marbles found in the Naos are direct casts of the original sculptures, which adorned the pediments of the Athenian Parthenon dating back to 438 B.C. Inside stands Nashville sculptor Alan LeQuire’s awe-inspiring 42-foot-tall sculpture of Athena; there’s also gallery space with a permanent collection of contemporary paintings. 2500 West End Ave., 615.862.8431, nashvilleparthenon.com
©ISAAC ARJONILLA
TOP: LEGACY1995/SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: ©JOHN SCHWEIKERT
NASHVILLE PARTHENON
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One of the oldest and largest historic site museums in the United States, Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage encompasses 1,120 acres and was the seventh president’s home, office and social parlor from 1804 until his death in 1845. It’s also home to the Jackson burial site, where Andrew and his beloved wife Rachel, who died in 1828, are reunited. Enslaved people also lived on the property, and those who wish to do more than visit the Jacksons’ former dwellings can board a wagon tour, which takes them into the plantation fields, and attend the special presentation “In Their Footsteps.” 4580 Rachel’s Lane, 615.889.2941, thehermitage.com
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It’s a story you can’t make up. While Charlie and Andy Nelson were visiting family in Greenbrier, Tennessee, their father regaled them with stories about the family heritage. A trip to the town’s butcher proved fateful when the Nelson brothers were exploring the land, and happened upon a sign marking the home of Nelson’s Green Brier Tennessee Whiskey. Inspired by their heritage, the two revived the business that had closed exactly 100 years earlier during Prohibition. Learn more about the brand and its history during a tasting experience that introduces you to four of Green Brier’s spirits. 1414 Clinton St., 615.913.8800, greenbrierdistillery.com
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In the shadow the Tennessee State Capitol lies the Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park, fashioned after the National Mall in Washington, D.C. The 19-acre park gives visitors a crash course in everything Volunteer State, from a “Pathway of History” with a World War II memorial, the “Rivers of Tennessee” fountains (31 geyser-like nozzles that pay tribute to the state’s waterways) and a 200-foot-long granite map of the state. There are also 11 planters that represent flora and fauna native to the state, and the 95-Bell Carillon is an homage to both Tennessee’s counties and musical heritage. It’s a lasting monument to the 16th state’s history and wonders, both natural and manmade. 600 James Robertson Parkway, 615.741.5280, tnstateparks.com/parks/ bicentennial-mall
TOP: ©ISAAC ARJONILLA; BOTTOM: ©VISIT MUSIC CITY
TOP: ©NELSON’S GREEN BRIER DISTILLERY; BOTTOM: ©VISIT MUSIC CITY
TENNESSEE STATE MUSEUM Take a fascinating look at the history of Tennessee, from prehistoric times through the 20th century. The Tennessee State Museum itself sits on a historic spot: it can trace its roots to a museum opened on the Nashville public square in 1817 by artist Ralph E. W. Earl; a life-sized portrait of then General Andrew Jackson was part of that museum, and sits in the collection of the state museum today. Visit permanent exhibits on topics ranging from the first peoples’ arrival in Tennessee at the end of the Ice Age to a 360-degree interactive theater exploring the state from World War II on. Revolutionary and Civil War artifacts and a natural history program are also featured. 1000 Rosa L. Parks Blvd., 615.741.2692, tnmuseum.org
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FRANKLIN The ninth-largest community in Tennessee, Franklin wears many faces. Its walkable downtown is both quaint and modern, and history buffs can visit multiple Civil War sites. It’s also a great antiquing destination and is filled with lush green rolling hills. Stressors peel away on the drive out to Leiper’s Fork, where you can stroll through galleries, boutiques and coffee shops. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled, as many musicians of all genres call Leiper’s Fork home. Do have a meal here—you won’t want to miss out on 1892. Leiper’s Fork Distillery is another must; here you’ll not only learn about whiskey, but tour the facility and enjoy a tasting. And did we say Franklin that is the most haunted city in Tennessee? Take a ghost tour, if you dare! visitfranklin.com 28
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AROUND THE CORNER
What happens in Nashville
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THOUSANDS OF STORIES.
1000 Rosa L. Parks Blvd. FREE Highlight Tours Daily at 2 p.m. tnmuseum.org WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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121 2nd Ave N., Franklin, TN 37064
| 615.791.5846
A BOOK LOVER’S PARADISE!
An eclectic mix of quality Antiques & Furnishings.
One of the South's premier independent booksellers with 30,000 new, old and rare books. Step through the doors that Jackson, Crockett, and Houston graced when you enter our 200 year old Greek Revival building. 114 East Main Street, Franklin, TN 615.791.6400 landmarkbooksellers.com OPEN7DAYSAWEEK � /landmark.booksellers
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/landmark.booksellers
Celebrating 47 years! Open for lunch in Cool Springs Monday-Saturday 11 am - 3 pm Belle Meade Sunday Brunch 5109 Harding Pike (Cool Springs Only) (615) 353-0809 10:30 am - 3 pm
Cool Springs 650 Frazier Drive (615) 778-9950
For more information on dinner hours, happy hour and promotions visit www.Sperrys.com
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Considered one of the most desirable suburban locations in Tennessee, Brentwood is known for its refined shopping and dining scenes, as well as its picturesque parks. Dine inside a historic home at Mere Bulles; the iconic Puffy Muffin is a perfect lunch spot after exploring boutiques such as Brentwood Stationers, Pear Tree Avenue and Spruce. Brentwood lies along the southern border of the 1,367-acre Lake Radnor, perfect for wildlife— the state park is protected as a Class II Natural Area. Also found here is the Owl’s Hill Nature Sanctuary, home to more than 2,000 species of local flora and fauna and owls that are not releasable into the wild. visitfranklin.com/see-and-do/brentwood 32
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MURFREESBORO Another city known for its Civil War history, Murfreesboro is home to the Stones River National Battlefield, where more than 6,000 Union soldiers are buried. The elegant Oaklands Mansion was caught in the crossfire of the Civil War; learn about the city’s prosperity at the time, as well as its community, on a visit. Glean more knowledge about Murfreesboro through its dynamic arts scene: The Center for the Arts is a great place to start. The city has also emerged as a culinary hotspot, with more than 300 restaurants; local favorites include the family-owned Demos’ Restaurant, the country cafe Miller’s Grocery and Kleer-Vu Lunchroom’s soul food. Love wildlife? Check out the Murfree Springs Wetlands. murfreesborotn.gov WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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The county seat for Maury County, Columbia, Tennessee has its roots in business and agriculture. It’s home to General Motors, antebellum mansions and the only surviving residence of President James K. Polk (above right). The city is also an antiquer’s dream, with a vibrant arts district—you’ll find a number of artist spaces just blocks from Columbia’s historic town square. Be sure to meander about the great variety of shops and restaurants, such as Duck River Books, Smith & York (above center) and Asgard Brewing Company. Before you leave, don’t forget to visit the burgeoning Factory at Columbia, a treasure trove of eclectic finds—it’s just minutes from downtown Columbia. visitcolumbiatn.com 34
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ALL OTHERS: ©ROSS JAYNES VISUAL MEDIA CO.
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BOTTOM RIGHT: ©TENNESSEE DEPARTMENT OF TOURIST DEVELOPMENT
AROUND THE CORNER
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e l l i v h s Na s d r i b e v o for L Move over songbirds. Here’s how to spend a romantic day in Music City. B Y M A D I S O N S U L L I VA N
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troll hand in hand under a waterfall, past statues to a pavilion lit with twinkle lights. Where are you? Paris, Venice, Rome? Nope. We’ve got all of that and more right here in Nashville. And we’ve put together an all-day romantic itinerary you’re sure to love. Start your day by tearing your gaze away from one another long enough to peruse Biscuit Love’s breakfast offerings. Let your eyes go straight to the hearts smattering the menu and pick out one of its customer favorites. Once you’ve shared a sugary treat, head to the Gaylord Opryland Resort to wander its water-feature-fi lled gardens. Then visit its Relâche Spa for a couple’s massage. Once you’re pampered, have a picnic at Love Circle, a skyline-viewing spot. When you two are together, everything is picturesque. But why not take things to the next level with Picnic PopUp’s Just a Kiss experience? (seen here) They’ll set up the table, pillows, lights and fresh flowers. Next on the list: Paddywax Candle Bar, where you’ll pick and pour a scent that’ll remind you of your trip—has it been spicy (amber and smoke) or sweet (Bordeaux fig and vetiver)? Once your candle has set, put on your fanciest attire and make your way to the velvet-curtain-lined House of Cards for dinner and a magic show. End your night dancing through Broadway or sipping champagne up among the stars at the Rare Bird rooftop bar, atop the Noelle Hotel. Whatever you lovebirds decide to do, we know you’ll remember your romantic trip to Nashville for years to come.
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LIVE ENTERTAINMENT DAILY NASHVILLE SOUTHERN CUISINES WITH ALDEAN FAMILY RECIPES NASHVILLE’S BIGGEST ROOFTOP PARTY WITH THE BEST VIEWS OF BROADWAY
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Inside The Factory at Franklin (©VISIT FRANKLIN)
Retail Therapy
Everything old is new again at Nashville’s hippest shopping centers
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hile Music City is ever thinking about its future, it never forgets its past. Case in point, the former warehouses and factories that have been creatively repurposed as shopping centers. The Marathon name has been entrenched in Nashville’s automotive history since the turn of the 20th century. Some of Marathon Motor Works’ most popular cars were produced here, in a facility just west of downtown. Today, its network of buildings is known as the Marathon Village (1305 Clinton St., Nashville), a vibrant spot to work and play—home to artist studios, distilleries, boutiques, lounges, restaurants and a comedy club. Don’t leave before visiting the Marathon Motor Works museum, which showcases five Marathon vehicles in the company’s original showroom. Just minutes from Main Street Franklin lies one of the city’s hidden gems. The Factory at Franklin (230 Franklin Road, Franklin) houses some of the area’s most unique vendors inside 38
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Dortch Stove Works’ original 1929 factory, now on the National Register of Historic Places. Flip through the stacks at Luna Record Shop. Get your retro fix at Vintage, Tennessee, Franklin’s only vintage clothing and accessories shop. Explore the works of the many photographers and artists who have galleries here. Follow it all up with some of the best eats in Franklin: Mojo’s Tacos, Pinchy’s Lobster Co. and Five Daughters Bakery among them. Love scouring for antiques? You’ll be in heaven at The Factory at Columbia (101 N. James Campbell Blvd., Columbia), an antiquer’s paradise. Once a vintage shirt factory, this 1958 building is full of charm: come for lunch at B’s Salty & Sweet (get the daily special, then take home a delectable donut—or a dozen), try on a chic new look at Wear it Well consignment, then delve into the Columbia Antique Marketplace—pace yourself, you’re sure to be in here for a few hours.
DINING • SHOPPING • ENTERTAINMENT IF YOU’RE SOUTHERN...YOU GET IT. IF YOUR NOT...YOU CAN GET IT HERE.
MORE THAN 15 SHOPS65UNDER ONE ROOF Nashville
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HATS • SHIRTS • ACCESSORIES • SAUCES & SPICES • SOUVENIRS & MORE •
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Civil War battlefield areas in Franklin, Tenn., are denoted by stake and rider style wooden fences. (©VISIT FRANKLIN)
STEP INTO NASHVILLE’S HISTORY BOOKS Travel from Fort Nashborough to Music City B Y M A D I S O N S U L L I VA N
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lanning a tour that encompasses Nashville’s history might feel like catapulting through time as you read about one storied attraction after another. Once inhabited by Native American tribes such as the Shawnee, this land was occupied long before Europeans settled in 1779 and began calling their Cumberland River community Fort Nashborough (according to Metro Archives and Nashville.gov). And while our city later takes on a name with a familiar ring—and stays a stage for events that’ll fill history books—you’ll want to pause in the past for a self-guided tour of the reconstructed settlement. Even with “fort” missing from our moniker, wars are written into our records. Once you return from the War of 1812 Memorial on the
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Natchez Trace Parkway, flip forward to 1864. While in Franklin, visit Carnton and the Carter House. Then, check out the Battle of Nashville Trust’s driving tour (battleofnashvilletrust.org) to map your visit to Civil War fortifications, monuments and more. The Civil Rights Room in the Main Nashville Public Library tells another significant story. Here you can honor those who helped end segregation through their brave actions in the 1950s and ‘60s. Your itinerary wouldn’t be complete without seeing a show at Ryman Auditorium, where melodies have been made in Music City since 1892. Finally, grab a bite to eat at Prince’s Hot Chicken, the creators of the city’s most iconic meal. Even though it may not be possible to pack all of Nashville’s past into one trip, that’s all the more reason to return in the future.
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Music City Cocktail Tour
Toast Music City with a gin-based cocktail inside a stationary Greyhound bus atop the Bobby Hotel. (©BOBBY HOTEL)
y Tour Nashville’s cocktail scene liquor b
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he words “Nashville” and “booze” likely bring to mind an icecold beer (to the delight of every country singer). But we’ve got much more than brew. OK, so we said you’d think of beer, but you might have thought of bourbon. For that, you’ll want to visit Downtown’s 1920s-themed speakeasy, Red Phone Booth. Its Smoked Old Fashioned is reason enough to track down the secret phone number required for entry. Go from speakeasy to SandBar in Midtown. You’ll need one of its Grapefruit and Watermelon Paloma juice pouches to soothe your atmospheric whiplash as you sink your toes into the sand. Not a fan of tequila? Stop by on a weekend to drink a mimosa out of a hulled pineapple. Stay on the outskirts and sip some scotch just outside of 12 South. Step inside Old Glory for the Sea Wolf, a red scotch, 42
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liquor, neighborhood by neighb orhoo d. By Madison Sullivan wakame, ginger, honey and lemon cocktail that the industrial spot describes as refreshing. Then make your way to The Gulch. You may be close to the city’s core, but when you’re inside 16-Bit Bar+Arcade you’ll be transported back to your childhood. You’re 21-plus now, so you get to pair Space Invaders with the Carrie Fisher, a coconut rum, blueberry vodka, blue curacao and pineapple and lime juice cocktail topped with rock candy. Head from The Gulch to Germantown to try absinthe at Green Hour. Imbibe in the beverage that shares the lounge’s name, which includes absinthe, egg white, cream, orgeat, chocolate and mint. We’ll end where we began: Downtown. Before closing time, go up to the Bobby Hotel’s Rooftop Lounge and order off its signature or seasonal menu. Your last sip and stop on this cocktail tour: a gin-based beverage enjoyed inside the rooftop’s stationary Greyhound bus.
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The resiliency of Second Avenue knows no bounds BY MARY SKINNER
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t no time in their days of yore did the words “Nashville Strong” greater represent those on historic Second Avenue than when the devastation of Christmas morning 2020 hit. A bomb blast, which tore through this important area of the city—home to historically
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and architecturally significant buildings, artists and community leaders—left untold destruction. We delve into the rich history of the area and tell the inspiring stories of those who’ve worked and played on this iconic Nashville street before and in the wake of the aftermath.
IMAGE COURTESY TENNESSEE STATE LIBRARY & ARCHIVES
RESTORING THE SOUL OF NASHVILLE
HISTORIC IMAGES COURTESY TENNESSEE STATE LIBRARY & ARCHIVES; BOTTOM RIGHT: ©JOE HENDRICKSON/SHUTTERSTOCK
IMAGE COURTESY TENNESSEE STATE LIBRARY & ARCHIVES
Almost 250 years ago on Christmas Day 1779, James Robertson, one of the founders of Nashville, arrived on the banks of the Cumberland River. He was soon joined by his friend, John Donelson, along with some 60 families, including women and children who came in 30 flatbeds up the river. The settlers built a stockade named Fort Nashborough that would become the city of Nashville, Tennessee. Today, visitors can see the small replica of the fort built in the 1930s and located in the downtown historic district along First Avenue North, several hundred meters from the original site. The Cumberland River played a large part in the development of what is now called the Second Avenue Historic District. Originally, riverboats would unload their
goods on the docks just below Front Street (now First Avenue) and store them in the warehouses whose front entrances faced Market Street (now Second Avenue). In the 19th century, steamboat transportation and the riverside location were key factors in the success of the wholesale businesses that were established here. After the Civil War, brick structures began replacing the older wooden ones, and storehouses were built a full block wide so that the backsides of the buildings would have large entrances facing the wharves along the river. The fronts of the buildings faced Market Street and successful merchants erected “modern” Victorian edifices displaying their newly acquired wealth. The segment of the old Market Street went from Broadway to the public square and was the
Opposite page: Men stand in front of the Silver Dollar Saloon, circa 1900. Clockwise from top: A 1887 illustration of Market Street (now Second Avenue) looking south; Historic Front Street warehouses (now First Avenue) have been turned into bars, restaurants and lofts; late 1800s look at Second Avenue and Church Street.
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most important business street in Nashville in the last half of the 19th century. Twenty-first Century Nashvillians and visitors to Music City have always admired the ornate brick structures not only for their history, but also for their architectural value. The detailed cornices and facades represent a rare variation on a Victorian-Italianate theme. Historians believe many of the structures were influenced by the Chicago School of commercial architecture, which was popular at the time. On the corner of Second Avenue and Broadway stands a three-story Romanesque brick building designed by architect Julius G. Zwicker and completed in 1893, known as the Silver Dollar Saloon. The building’s name came from the floors made of silver dollars. In 1889, V. E. Schwab
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purchased the property. His brother-in-law was George A. Dickel. The saloon served Dickel’s whiskey and attracted riverboat crews who worked nearby. During prohibition, the saloon transformed into a soft drink emporium and restaurant. Today, the building houses the gift shop for Nashville’s Hard Rock Cafe, where you can still see the silver dollars embedded in the floor. The story of Maxwell House coffee also has ties to the history of the Second Avenue Historic District. Cheek & Norton, importers, roasters and blenders of high-grade coffee, were located at 212 North Market Street in the early 1900s. Former school teacher, Joel Cheek, opened a coffee shop in downtown Nashville with the help of investors in 1901. They persuaded the owners of the Maxwell House
HISTORIC IMAGES COURTESY TENNESSEE STATE LIBRARY & ARCHIVES; TOP LEFT: ©VISIT MUSIC CITY
Clockwise from top left: Tour Nashville on the General Jackson Showboat; the wharf at Broad and Front Street (now First Avenue), in the 1870s; Steel barge built by Nashville Bridge Company on Cumberland River, early 1900s; Dudley Brothers and Berry’s Wholesale Drug Co. on Second Avenue, late 1880s.
©VISIT MUSIC CITY
HISTORIC IMAGES COURTESY TENNESSEE STATE LIBRARY & ARCHIVES; TOP LEFT: ©VISIT MUSIC CITY
Hotel to serve their coffee, and began using the slogan, “Good to the Last Drop,” in 1917. In 1928, Cheek sold the brand to Postum Co. for $42 million; it was subsequently purchased by General Foods. Across the street from this location was the building that once housed the Gray & Dudley Hardware Company. Incorporated in 1895, the company boasted that its Market Street headquarters was “the largest business house ever built in the city.” Today, the location houses the 21c Museum Hotel, a perfect example of adaptive reuse that preserves the building’s historic elements while creating a versatile space to display contemporary art. It also houses the hotel’s restaurant, Gray & Dudley, popular with locals and tourists alike.
Because the Second Avenue Historic District has weathered several catastrophes in its history, fundraising efforts have also been part of its rich history. After it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1972, the nonprofit organization, Historic Nashville, began hosting the Market Street Festival, which ran through the 1980s, bringing awareness and funds for historic preservation efforts. Tennesseans have been galvanized by the 2020 crisis and have been organizing several concerts and fundraising events to raise the millions needed to rebuild the district and bring it back to its former glory. As a reborn Second Avenue rises again, it will forever maintain its rich history and captivate generations to come.
A look at Second Avenue North as it appeared before December 2020.
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
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TUNE IN TO THE NATCHEZ TRACE Leave your headphones in the hotel as you explore this 10,000-year-old corridor. BY MADISON SULLIVAN
PHOTOS ©VISIT FRANKLIN
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woodpecker’s solo splits through two songbirds’ duet. Rubble rumbles underfoot, and wheels whir along the pavement just out of sight. All of these things and more meld together to create the Natchez Trace Parkway’s siren song. But let’s rewind. The land where the parkway and its scenic trail are now has seen injustices and artwork, decline and growth. Once a network of trails—crossed by prehistoric animals, tribes such as the Natchez, Chickasaw and Choctaw, settlers and soldiers—in modern-
day, the parkway is one unit, split into five sections visited by millions, the National Park Service explains. And it’s easy to explore this historic route, whether you’re looking to hike or bike it—or both. Pedego Electric Bikes Franklin offers rentals and tours, and travelers will appreciate their bike’s capabilities as they make their way from downtown along pastoral roads. If the power to forgo pedaling isn’t enough to energize you, a stop at The RedByrd Coffee Shop in Leiper’s Fork WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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make while traversing this trail is at its base. Take the path straight on through the canopy of trees, and save the winding section to your left for the way back. In less than a mile, you’ll reach an overlook. A silo, barn and hills spread out in panorama, and, of course, there’s the road. You’ll hear a rasping, and for a moment, you might look up to see if the leaves are rustling in the wind. A telltale bump, bump will give away what you’re hearing: a vehicle crossing a bridge—one of many you’ll see during your time on the Trace. Make your way just a bit farther and pause. Here you can head one mile back to spend more time on two wheels, or you can press forward, following the out-and-back path. If you choose to continue, you’ll notice horseshoe prints packing down the mud and pass through patches of downed trees, carved out by those tending the trail. When you reach the Old Trace clearing, make your way up to a
Opening spread: The Natchez Trace Parkway is a picturesque spot for a walk or a ride. Above, clockwise from left: The Red Byrd Coffee Shop; one of the eight major watersheds crossed by the Trace; charming signage along the trail. Opposite page: Foliage abounds along the Trace.
PHOTOS ©MADISON SULLIVAN
will do the trick. Sip a blackberry mocha at this charming roadside stop as bluegrass and Americana tunes drift from the speaker hung by the window. Once caffeinated, hop back on your bike. Soon you’ll see a sign with arrows pointing in opposite directions: Nashville, 37 miles, Tupelo, MS, 169. Turn toward Tupelo. You may be disconnecting from Music City, but you’re about to tune in to the sounds of the Highland Rim section. Pull off at the Garrison Creek trailhead, lock your bike to the rack and start your journey on foot here. As the northern terminus of the 450-mile scenic trail, you’ll see everyone from boot-clad hikers to motorcyclists stretching their legs. The trail is intuitive. While there is a myriad of markers—triangles reminiscent of moss, painted arrows on wooden posts, and faded metal signs—you won’t need them. One of the first and few navigation choices you’ll
©MADISON SULLIVAN
solitary monument. It’s covered in tokens—pennies and pebbles—left by those marching over the same ground during the War of 1812. Dive back into the woods and you’ll start your descent. This section of the trail is characterized by ups and downs, but the hitch in your breath is worth it. When you arrive at Burns Branch, you may be tempted to soak your tired toes. There’s no need. Those who make their way around the bend will find themselves crisscrossing crystal-clear creeks tinkling alongside the trail. The farther you wander, the fewer people you see—and the louder nature becomes: the twang of a frog, the buzzing of a bee. From Tennessee Valley Divide on, the wilderness encroaches. Suddenly you’ll reach Carter Road: the bridge. And, fittingly, you’ll see one, holding the parkway overhead, framing a dead-end sign. But with five miles until Garrison Creek, you’ve got a ways to go before you’re once again in Music City. The Natchez Trace’s centuries-old soundtrack plays on. WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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EAST SIDE STORY The neighborhood of East Nashville rebounds from a series of natural disasters thanks to its tight-knit creative community.
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n March 3, 2020 an EF3 tornado touched down in several Nashville neighborhoods and Middle Tennessee communities. It was not the first time East Nashville had been hit by a tornado. In 1933 and 1998 rotating storms blew through the same area, ripping off roofs and causing structural damage. But this time, such a storm came barreling down Main Street just 10 days before lockdown in response to the coronavirus pandemic. While statistically these storms have claimed relatively low fatalities, they have been significant in the damage they caused, in the rebuilding they ushered in and the way in which they underscored the neighborhood’s small-town feel in the middle of a growing city. Nothing happens in a vacuum, of course. The rebuilding after the 1998 tornado was in conjunction with the NFL’s Tennessee Titans (then the Tennessee Oilers) coming
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to town and the opening of what is now called Nissan Stadium, a major attraction that revitalized the east side of the river. In 2020, the neighborhood, dotted with small businesses, pivoted. Restaurants with intact kitchens loaned freezer space to those that lost theirs. Artists and seamstresses made masks while musicians played drivein shows so live music could continue. Since the neighborhood, city and county have rebounded, you can experience East Nashville’s tight community and off-beat esprit de corps by simply wandering its streets, many of which are lined with historical and restored homes. Should you choose to be intentional about your exploration, consider the following stops. Most of them are within walking distance of the neighborhood’s famous Five Points intersection.
©VISIT MUSIC CITY
BY MARGARET LITTMAN
©ATTABOY
DRINK By the Bottle (instagram.com/bythebottleurbancowboy). This all-natural wine shop serves everything, as its name suggests, by the bottle only. The friendly space is designed for you to share a bottle with a friend over a leisurely conversation on the shaded patio. Owner Kate Cunningham wants to make wine less intimidating, so ask her anything. Attaboy (attaboy.us/nashville). Experience the city’s most refined cocktail experience. This small bar suffered after the tornado when one of its beloved employees and his partner were killed in the storm. The bar is rebuilt, and it reopened with the same custom crafted cocktail experience, a new roof and the motto: Positive Vibes Only. Crazy Gnome Brewery (cgbrewing.com). Brothers Grayson and Bennett Miller had spent five years readying to open their first brewery when the tornado knocked off their roof and ruined their fermentation tanks. By August 2020, with the help of friends and neighbors, they opened their petand family-friendly brewery. They welcome outside food
in their space, so order takeout from one of the other local restaurants and enjoy it with a Crazy Gnome beer. Weiss Liquors (weissliquors.com). While you are in the neighborhood, check out the 30-foot-tall neon sign at this Main Street liquor store. A constant in the city since 1932, it was knocked out by the tornado, rebuilt and recrafted by design company Fortify Nashville.
EAT Bolton’s Spicy Chicken and Fish (boltonsspicy.com). You can’t come to Nashville without eating hot chicken. Bolton’s is one of the city’s leaders in this Music City favorite, started by a former cook at Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack. Enjoy the patio while you wait for your chicken to be fried for you. Margot Café and Bar (margotcafe.com). When Margot opened in 2001, it paved the way for other restaurants to hang their shingles on the east side. Chef Margot McCormack closed her nearby lunch place, Marche Artisan Foods,
Opposite: Enjoy honky-tonk music on Tuesday nights at the American Legion Post. Above: Craft cocktails are created with precision at Attaboy.
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Butcher & Bee (butcherandbee.com/nashville). Creative takes on Middle Eastern food, a comfortable outdoor patio and a popular weekend brunch make Butcher & Bee the go-to for hungry locals.
PLAY The Basement East (thebasementnashville.com). If you saw news reports about the tornado in East Nashville, you likely saw a photo of the Basement East. While its building was damaged, its “I Believe in Nashville” mural remained standing, and that painting was a source of strength for many during the difficulties of 2020. This eclectic, locally owned music venue is a favorite of locals who want to hear a cross-section of genres without as much flash and neon as they find on Lower Broad. Honky Tonk Tuesday Nights ( facebook.com/ honkytonktuesdaynights). The American Legion Post is two miles north of the Five Points intersection, and it is
Top left: The classic Jewish deli creations from Shep’s are a must. Bottom left and right: Butcher & Bee is known for its imaginative Middle Eastern cuisine.
TOP LEFT: ©CHRISTEN CLEMINS; BOTTOM LEFT AND RIGHT: ©ANDREW CEBULKA
during the pandemic, and instead expanded the patio and lunch hours at the original Margot. After the tornado, when neighbors needed a place to gather, eat and regroup, Margot fed the neighborhood and helped folks feel connected again. Shep’s Delicatessen (shepsdeli.com). The aforementioned Marche space didn’t stay vacant for long. Shep’s opened a classic Jewish deli with pickles, bagels and pastrami. Behind Shep’s is Duke’s (dukesbarnashville.com), a favorite local bar with a solid sandwich counter, perfect for taking carry-out on a hike or picnic. Hunters Station (huntersstation.com). Housed in a former autobody shop, Hunters Station is East Nashville’s food hall, serving beer, tacos, bagels, burgers, grilled cheese, ice cream and milkshakes. In addition, it is home to a community kitchen where start-up businesses—many birthed during the pandemic—make their recipes. Check out the Citizen Market, which stocks the goods of many of those small food businesses.
worth the Lyft ride to hear live Western swing music and dance on an ample dance floor.
SHOP The Getalong (thegetalongshop.com). This sweet store stocks family-friendly toys, teething necklaces, jewelry, kids’ clothes and home accessories, with an emphasis on feel-good vibes and locally made vendors. The space also includes room for art workshops and hanging out with other families. Shoppes on Fatherland (fatherlanddistrict.com). Browse this collection of small shops, many of which are owned by local artists. Check out the selection of antiques, clothing, jewelry and more. Gift Horse, one of the complex’s larger stores, is a good option for Nashville-themed art and souvenirs. Five Points Alley Shops (c615.co/five-points-alley-shops). Shop for vintage cowboy boots, books, beads and art among these connected cozy small shops.
TRATTORIA IL MULINO NASHVILLE
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615.620.3700 144 FIFTH AVENUE SOUTH TRATTORIAILMULINONASHVILLE.COM
©SHEA WINDLEY JOHNSON
FINE SEAFOOD │ HAND MADE PASTA │ LIVE ENTERTAINMENT │ OUTDOOR DINING
Above: East Nashville is known for its eclectic shopping destinations and shops. Seen here is the Five Points Alley Shops, full of local and independently owned stores such as Tertiary Sight, Defunct Books, Fairytales Bookstore and The Good Fill.
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INSPIRED BY THE MUSIC
INTERVIEWED BY JENNIFER MCKEE
Dr. Paul Kwami and the Fisk Jubilee Singers keep the Negro Spiritual Alive 56
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COURTESY DR. PAUL KWAMI
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r. Paul Kwami was born in Ghana, West Africa, the son of a musician. He studied at Ghana’s National Academy of Music before immigrating to the United States in 1983 to attend Fisk University, a private, historically black university founded in 1866 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Kwami was involved in the Fisk Jubilee Singers as both a student and as member of Fisk’s music department; in 1994 he became its first African musical director. In 2007, Kwami took the ensemble to his native Ghana for the nation’s Golden Jubilee, and in 2008, the White House, where the singers received a National Medal of Arts. In March 2021, as the group was celebrating its 150th anniversary, the Fisk Jubilee Singers won its first Grammy award, for Roots Gospel Album.
You grew up with music in the household. How did it shape your perspective on the world?
Studying music comes to me naturally. I think it’s because of the training I had at home, starting at a very early age. That also helps me when I’m teaching students—I know how to present materials to them to get them inspired to study music.
What were some of the most important things you learned from your father that you still carry with you today?
One important thing I remember my father telling me—because he was a teacher—is that I should love my students. I credit my musical education to my father, even though he did not sit me down to teach me all the basics. There were just times when I would follow him to his rehearsals and watch him teach, watch him conduct. At home I would just sit and listen to him play the piano. I’d pick up a lot of things from him. What first drew you to the Fisk Jubilee Singers? How did it
we were not representing ourselves, we were not part of any ordinary singing group, we were part of a rich legacy that came out of Fisk University. How has the music the ensemble performs changed throughout the years? Do you still sing any of the songs the very first group of singers did?
The difference is in the arrangements. I recently found a book published by one of the original singers, Thomas Rutling, so I’m using some of the songs. I wish I could hear what the songs sounded like as sung by the first group. This book, I believe, gives me the closest examples of how the music sounded.
enrich your college experience? When people hear
I did not know anything about the Fisk Jubilee Singers until I came to Fisk as a student. Once I became a member of the ensemble, it gave me the opportunity to learn more about the history and the legacy, which helped me to realize the sacrifices that those young nine students made —that is, the first ensemble in 1871. I realized I was part of a legacy that always represented Fisk University. Because wherever we went,
the ensemble’s music, what do you want them to take away from it?
I believe that people, individually, have various types of needs, and our desire is always that when we sing, those needs be met. There may be someone who comes into a concert feeling very unhappy about some matter. But as a result of listening to our music, that person would leave very happy. We’ve had people talk
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Fisk Jubilee Singers,1876
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©WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
Q&A
Q&A to us about these types of things. We prepare our rehearsals with a goal of singing and simply delivering specific messages to people as they would need them, or simply bring blessings to people when we sing. We prepare so well that when we sing, our emotions become part of the music that comes out of us. Which means that we have to understand the messages of the songs, we have to develop that emotional relationship with the music. What does this music stir in you?
When I prepare to teach these songs, when I listen to my students sing these songs, I become inspired. When I’m preparing to teach or even in the course of teaching, so much inspiration comes to me. Sometimes I have to stop teaching the songs and talk about life. It’s amazing. The Negro spirituals, I believe, still have messages for us. Please talk about “Sacred Journey” and taking the ensemble to your native Ghana. Why you went, what you achieved, and its impact.
When I became a Fisk Jubliee Singer, I realized immediately that music was one of the connecting factors
between Africans and African Americans, because people were captured as slaves from countries like Ghana. In Ghana, we have a saying that in the life of the African, there is music from birth to death. Music is part of our lives. So those slaves that were brought here ended up creating the Negro spirituals. When I became musical director, I had a very strong desire to take the Fisk Jubilee Singers back to Ghana, which also meant that we would be taking the Negro spiritual, in a polished form, back to its roots. We received an inquiry from the Department of State asking if we’d be able to join Ghanaians as they celebrated their 50th Year Independence Anniversary, which was also referred to as the Year of Jubilee. So we agreed to go. The preparation was not easy. We still had to raise some of the funds. None of my students had ever been to Ghana, and so even though they had the desire, people were very cautious. They were not sure about the food, they were not sure about how people would treat them. I realized that people were putting fear into us, and I decided that it was the right time for us to go, and I would see to it that we got to Ghana. That is actually one reason why I named it “Sacred Journey”—
taking the Negro spirituals back to Ghana, but also overcoming all of these challenges. I believe we had a great impact on Ghanaians. We celebrated July 4, 2007 in Ghana, and I remember another singing group joined us in the ambassador’s residence—we sang, they sang, we had plenty of food. I watched my students, they enjoyed it very much. One of our main concerts in the capital city of Accra, was tremendous. I taught some Ghanaian songs, and as my students were singing, anytime we started singing Ghanaian songs, people in the audience would get up and sing along with us. We were there for about 10 days. At the end of the trip, some of my students told me they did not want to return to the U.S. And now the ensemble has a Grammy. Do you think it’s particularly rewarding this banner anniversary year?
We are always looking for ways to get people to realize the significance of the Fisk Jubilee Singers and their music. So for us to win a Grammy during this year becomes very significant. I’m very happy for it. Extremely happy.
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GET TO KNOW Nashville’s neighborhoods are full of color, whether it be from their murals, music halls or green spaces. Let us show you their environs in a whole new light.
©VISIT MUSIC CITY
12South
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The ultimate walkable neighborhood, 12South’s half-mile main stretch mixes Southern chains such as Holly Williams’ White’s Mercantile and Reese Witherspoon’s Draper James (seen here) with unique local boutiques and vintage shops: find glorious leather bags at Ceri Hoover, contemporary women’s clothing at Emerson Grace and premium denim destination Imogene + Willie. It’s also dotted with Nashville’s best restaurants and coffee shops; Frothy Monkey, Five Daughters Bakery and Edley’s Bar-B-Que are standouts. Park the car and make the jaunt on a sunny afternoon. visitmusiccity.com/explorenashville/neighborhoods/12south
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GET TO KNOW East Nashville
Germantown
Named for the influx of German immigrants in the mid-19th century, Germantown is full of period charm, with restaurants housed in restored Victorian buildings, boutiques found in former warehouses and brick sidewalks. The neighborhood, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, is home to the gleaming Tennessee State Museum, the Nashville Farmers Market and the Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park. First Tennessee Park, home to the Nashville Sounds (a Triple-A affiliate of the Texas Rangers), can also be found here. Germantown is also the starting point of tours such as the NashTrash musical comedy tour and Nashville Food Adventures. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/germantown 62
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TOP: ©BRENT MOORE/FLICKR; BOTTOM: ©ISAAC ARJONILLA
A food- and drink-centric neighborhood across the Cumberland River from downtown Nashville, East Nashville has long been known as a creative hotspot and for its cultural diversity. Margot Cafe & Bar first put this neighborhood on the map as a must-visit dining destination; others such as Redheaded Stranger and Butcher & Bee, continue the tradition. For those into craft beer, the East Nashville Beer Works is a must. East Nashville is also full of historic homes, and you can even stay in a 115-year-old historic church, The Russell. visitmusiccity. com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/east-nashville
©GRACE BOTO
Green Hills
An affluent suburb known for its stately homes and boutique shopping, Green Hills’ ZIP codes are some of Nashville’s most coveted. Shopping here is anchored by The Mall at Green Hills, home to more than 100 specialty stores and eateries, with 55 brands unique to Nashville, including Tennessee’s only Nordstrom and the RH Nashville Gallery, plus a state-of-the-art Dillard’s flagship. Green Hills is also home to the celeb-adored H. Audrey boutique (Faith Hill and Gwyneth Paltrow are fans), owned by Holly Williams. Less conspicuous but perhaps the most famous spot in Green Hills is the Bluebird Cafe, a listening room made famous by the TV series “Nashville.” visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/green-hills WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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GET TO KNOW
Located between Music Row and downtown lies The Gulch, a bustling, LEED-certified community that dates back to before the Civil War. It gets its name from the natural geographic depression of the 110-acre neighborhood; it was designed with connectivity, walkability and public transportation in mind, and there are numerous bike and walking paths here. Dining and nightlife options abound here, such as the popular Biscuit Love, Party Fowl Whiskey Kitchen and Saint Anejo. Like public art? Bring home a coveted selfie by posing in front of Kelsey Montague’s “What Lifts You Wings” and get inspired by Allison Johnson’s “Acoustic Skyline.” explorethegulch.com
Hillsboro Village
Adjacent to both Vanderbilt and Belmont universities, a jaunt through Hillsboro Village makes for a delightful dining, shopping and sightseeing excursion. Breakfast lovers will want to make Pancake Pantry a frequent stop; pancakes are scratchmade, and more than a dozen varieties are available, making multiple trips necessary. When it’s time for lunch, don’t miss the Grilled Cheeserie, where the Pimento Mac & Chee (at left) delighted Guy Fieri on “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.” Also appearing on Triple D was Martin’s BBQ Joint. When it’s time to work off some calories, take a delightful walk down 21st Avenue S., where you’ll find boutiques such as Molly Green, South and Onward Reserve. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/ neighborhoods/belmont-hillsboro-village
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TOP: ©ISAAC ARJONILLA; BOTTOM: COURTESY BREAD & BUTTER PUBLIC RELATIONS. OPPOSITE: ©CHRISTOPHER HUGHES
The Gulch
GET TO KNOW
The Nations
A neighborhood full of pubs, coffee shops, spas and gyms, The Nations is just west of downtown Nashville and is considered one of the fastest-growing enclaves in Music City. When hometown brewer Fat Bottom Brewing Company was looking to expand its operations in 2016, it moved to a 33,000-square-foot facility here. Another popular craft beer spot, Southern Grist Brewing Co., grew its business in The Nations. No matter where you end up in this neighborhood, you’ll find the vibe to be casual, but the offerings top-notch. thenations615.com
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GET TO KNOW
Sylvan Park
Wedgewood-Houston
Discover art around every corner in Wedgewood-Houston, known for its proliferation of galleries. Every first Saturday is the WeHo Art Crawl, when art-lovers hop between a dozen art galleries within walking distance of each other. If you’re looking for something a little out of the ordinary, see if you can hit the bullseye at Flying Axes. Of course, any of the above is thirsty work—fans of the apple will love Diskin Cider, Nashville’s only craft cidery. Need a harder spirit? Try the boutique creations at Nashville Craft Distillery. Architecture lovers should take a quick jaunt to nearby Chesnut Hill to visit BentoLiving, where function and form are intertwined. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/wedgewood-houston
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TOP: ©METRO ARTS COMMISSION; BOTTOM: ©DISKIN CIDER
A quiet, relaxing neighborhood Southwest of downtown, Sylvan Park is known for its locally-owned restaurants, bars and shops, McCabe Golf Course, found at McCabe Park, and the Richland Creek Greenway. The greenway connects Sylvan Park to the nearby Cherokee Park, an area known for its architectural significance, and the White Bridge Road trailhead, home to Dutchman’s Curve and the Great Train Wreck of 1918. It’s also home to the Nashville Opera and the Nashville Ballet, the largest professional opera and ballet companies in Tennessee. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/sylvan-park
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
ANDREW JACKSON’S HERMITAGE: PRESIDENTIAL HISTORY IN NASHVILLE’S BACKYARD
Discover how America’s history was shaped in Nashville’s backyard with a visit to Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage, a 1,120-acre National Historic Landmark. The home of the 7th president invites you to tour the Greek Revival-style mansion where Jackson and his family lived. Learn about Jackson’s early life, rising from an orphan to a budding lawyer and an elected public official to a military hero and eventually to the White House. Stroll through the garden fit for a First Lady, hike trails, or visit Natchez Hills Winery at Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage for wine tastings, wine flights, wine slushes and craft beer. Save $2 off a grounds pass with code WhereNashvilleGB, valid through 9/30/22. 4580 Rachel’s Lane, Nashville, TN 37076
615.889.2941
www.thehermitage.com
KING BABY Located in 12 South, King Baby embodies the spirit of Americana with rock n’ roll sex appeal. In the latest collections, Founder & Designer Mitchell Binder has captured a fresh twist on classic silver styles, reinventing traditional jewelry staples with the highest quality design. The brand continues to handcraft all its jewelry in the USA, using lost wax casting and hand fabrication every day out of its Santa Monica studio. Artisan jewelers finish each piece for a distinctive aesthetic that cannot be found elsewhere. Offering both men’s and women’s styles, fans can always find something new to add to their collection. The lifestyle brand has brick and mortar locations in Santa Monica, Las Vegas, Nashville, New Hope, and throughout China, along with a very strong e-commerce presence. 2814 12th Ave South, Nashville, TN 37204
615.249.0203
HAYMAKERS & CO. Haymakers is Nashville’s one-stop shop for men’s tailored and casual clothing, premium denim and heritage based provisions. Named one of the South’s Best Shops by Garden & Gun and Southern Living, Haymakers has introduced a well curated assortment of brands to Nashville, including, LBM 1911, Ring Jacket, Sunspel, Life After Denim, Stenstroms, Faherty, Massimo Alba, Baracuta, Alden Shoes, Moore & Giles, SMN Denim, J Brand, Diadora Heritage Shoes & more. Equipped with a full service barber shop & drinks on the house, Haymakers’ custom clothing corner includes options from select American made manufacturers in addition to their own private label maker of custom suits & tailored clothing. 3307 West End Avenue, Nashville, TN 37203
615.810.9442 www.HaymakersandcoNashville.com
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
J. MICHAELS CLOTHIERS
A unique hybrid of a custom tailor and an upscale men’s specialty shop, J. Michaels is one of the most enjoyable shopping experiences anywhere. Founded in 1989, and occupying a 100 year old home on West End Avenue, the business grew initially by calling on customers in their offices. Today, J. Michaels remains Nashville’s bespoke specialist, while also housing a tasteful array of ready-made merchandise from great brands like Peter Millar, Hiltl, Barbour, Stenstroms, Martin Dingman, Luciano Barbera, Alden, Hickey Freeman, Oxxford, Gran Sasso, Alan Paine, Brax, Maurizio Baldassari, Hamilton Watches and others, along with our own private label items.
hatWRKS Truth be told...there’s not another hat shop like it! When you stop by, you’ll let us know if we live up to that claim. Starting in 2011 as a custom hat workshop, hatWRKS has grown into a destination store with one of the largest and diverse hat offerings in the world. Fedoras to toboggans, dress hats to westerns, men’s and women’s, old school or new school ~ we have a collection of trusted brands found around the globe, including USA’s Stetson all the way to Australia’s Akubra. You can still find us making our latest originals with the utmost quality and creativity. 5,000 sq. feet and over 5,000 hats to explore with knowledgable staff to assist. We look forward to meeting you, just... DON’T TOUCH THE CROWN.
3305 and 3307 West End Ave., Nashville, TN 37203
615.321.0686
www.jmichaelsclothiers.com
1027 8th Ave South, Nashville, TN 37203
615.491.9009 www.hatWRKS.com
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NASHVILLE GUE S T B O OK
HUNDREDS OF CHOICES TO SEE & TOUCH FROM THE WORLD’S LEADING PURVEYORS OF QUALITY LINENS
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Trip Advisor Top 10 Burger Restaurant in US
30 Craft Beers on Tap Hand Spun Milkshakes • Adult “Spiked” Shakes! Downtown (The Gulch) 420 11th Ave South Nashville, TN 37203 615-915-1943
Lenox Village (Near Brentwood) 6900 Lenox Village Dr. Nashville, TN 37211 615-499-4428
Mt. Juliet 1982 Providence Parkway Mt. Juliet TN 37211 615-553-2679
Murfreesboro 1500 Medical Center Parkway Murfreesboro, TN 37129 615-962-7762
BurgerRepublic.com
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Your Sanctuary of Sout hern Hospitality Awaits... Mansion
Restaurant
Winery
Guided Historic Tours
Wine/Bourbon Tastings
Three Retail Shops
The Rochford Loft for Culinary Arts
Arboretum and Tree Walk
Guided Segway Tours
Chef-Inspired Food & Wine Pairings
Outdoor Game Court
Open Daily 9am-5pm 5025 H A R DI NG PIK E • N A SH V IL L E , T ENNESSEE 372 05 • 615 -356 - 0501
w w w.V i s i t B e l l e M e a d e . c o m
ADVERTIS ER I N D E X Bella Linea .............................................................................................................69 Belle Meade Historic Site & Winery ............................................................ 71 Bourbon Sky at Bourbon Steak...................................................................43 Burger Republic...................................................................................................70 Cindi Earl................................................................................................................. 37 City of Franklin.....................................................................................................30 Factory at Columbia..........................................................................................39 FGL House....................................................................................................... 02, 13 Fly South .................................................................................................................68 French’s Shoes & Boots...........................................................................03, 29 Glockstore.............................................................................................................IBC Goo Goo Chocolate Co...................................................................................... 11 HatWRKS ................................................................................................................68 Haymakers & Co. ................................................................................................ 67 The Hermitage...................................................................................................... 67 It’s A Nashville Thing Y’All Gift Shop ........................................................39 J. Michaels Clothiers ..........................................................................................68 Jason Aldean’s Kitchen + Rooftop Bar............................................ 02, 37 Judith Bright ........................................................................................................ 09 King Baby Jewelry & Accessories ......................................................05, 67 Landmark Booksellers ......................................................................................30 Legends Corner ...................................................................................................69 Luke’s 32 Bridge Food + Drink ............................................................. 02, 13 Luigi’s City Pizza .........................................................................................02, 70 The Mall at Green Hills............................................................................. IFC, 01 Miranda Lambert’s Casa Rosa .............................................. Cover, 02, BC Music City Indoor Karting............................................................................... 55 The Nashville Store ............................................................................................. 41 Ryan Charlick, Realtor ...................................................................................... 29 Scarlett Scales Antiques | Home | Apparel ...........................................30 The Second Fiddle .............................................................................................69 SOAR Adventure Tower.................................................................................... 31 The Stage on Broadway..................................................................................69 Sperry’s Restaurant............................................................................................30 Sun Diner.......................................................................................................... 02, 41 TC Restaurant Group ........................................................................................02 Tennessee State Museum................................................................................ 29 Tequila Cowboy Bar & Grill ..................................................................... 02, 51 Trattoria Il Mulino ................................................................................................ 55 Wanna B’s Karaoke Bar....................................................................................02 Winchester Antique Mall .................................................................................30
From the glittering lights and spectacular music from honky tonks and other nightlife joints to museums, historic sites, gun ranges, restaurants, clothing, jewelry, boots, books, antiques and adrenaline-inducing attractions, Nashville beckons with fun and food day and night.
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©KATHY FOX
Visit Columbia TN............................................................................................... 35
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