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CO N TEN TS FALL • WINTER 2018-2019 / ISSUE 15
32 F E AT U R E S
24 The Kumu
40 Maui Is Her Muse
56 Flights of Fancy
THE VOICE OF GRACE AND INTEGRITY BY KYLE ELLISON
ARTIST ABIGAIL ROMANCHAK HONORS HER ROOTS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZACH PEZZILLO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA KIM
BY ILIMA LOOMIS
32 A Maui Star Is
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MYKLE COYNE
LILY MEOLA MAY BE YOUNG, BUT SHE'S A WISE OLD SOUL
WOMEN MAKE THEIR MARK ON THE WINE SCENE
BY RICK CHATENEVER
BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL OLSSON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL OLSSON
Turning Heads
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48 Raise a Glass
IN THE YEAR OF THE BIRD
CO N TEN TS
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84 D E PA R T M E N T S
6 Welcome Letter
From Bud Pikrone
THE GUIDE
16 Faces of Wailea
66 Explore
ALOHA IN ACTION
THE RECIPE FOR A PERFECT DAY
8 Contributors
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL OLSSON
10 Lei of the Land
84 The Promise
GET TING AROUND WAILEA
of Dawn
AN ELEMENTAL CHOIR
14 Behind the Scenes THE CONSTANT GARDENER BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL
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96 Aloha Moment
68 Dine FARE TO REMEMBER
70 Shop THE ART OF SHOPPING
ON THE COVER
Abigail Romanchak’s woodcut “Tracked,” was part of the Biennial at the erstwhile Contemporary Museum in Honolulu.
The Original Waterfall Collection
An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, Upper Level • Grand Wailea Resort KAANAPALI: Whalers Village • Hyatt Regency Maui LAHAINA: 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump • 744 Front Street, across from the seawall • Lahaina Cannery KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center
NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2018
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People’s Choice Awards 2018
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ALOHA
MAGAZINE
Spring and summer have brought warm days
and refreshing ocean adventures, with soft breezes that bring enchantment to the evenings. As I lie back and observe the night sky, with its abundance of stars and the luminous presence of the Milky Way, my thoughts go to the terrestrial stars that filled the resort at the recent 18th annual Maui Film Festival at Wailea. Now, as fall approaches, we anticipate the return of koholā, the cherished humpback whales that migrate here annually. You can share their joy of being here as you stroll along the Coastal Path, Wailea’s walkway, gathering place and pedestrian treasure. And you can observe, year-round, the daily spectacle of the glowing sunsets as you enjoy your walk. The resort will soon prepare to celebrate the holidays in paradise. Parties are planned and celebrated with style, lights illuminate tree-lined entries, entertainment spreads the cheer, and it can all be experienced with aloha. Whether enjoying a romantic dinner in one of our spectacular restaurants, special events such as the Maui Film Festival, or the biannual Restaurant Week celebration, you’re bound to enjoy our unique, year-round offerings. We’re also proud of the aloha spirit our guests and residents experience daily. The cultures and traditions of Hawai‘i, including ‘ukulele, hula, surfing and ocean sports, are well represented here, and we also honor the cultural wayfinders and ocean channels that brought the early navigators to this shore. The sunrise over Haleakalā never ceases to amaze, especially over the first sip of Maui coffee on a welcoming lānai. Here at Wailea, it’s easy to fulfill the wonderful visions you’ve had about Hawai‘i. This magazine has been created to take you on a journey through Wailea’s cultural past and into today’s special resort lifestyle. We hope you make it a part of your memories at home, and that it brings you back soon. Mahalo nui loa for sharing your time with us here in Wailea.
where ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER
William A. Moore III
WAILEA PUBLISHER
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HAWAII SALES DIRECTOR
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| HAWAII EDITORIAL EDITOR
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EDITORIAL DIRECTOR DESIGN DIRECTOR ART DIRECTOR
ACCOUNT MANAGERS
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DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY WAILEA PHOTO EDITOR
Isaac Arjonilla
Rachel Olsson
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Rick Chatenever, Kyle Ellison,
Ilima Loomis, Sarah Ruppenthal CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Mykle Coyne,
Anna Kim, Rachel Olsson, Zach Pezzillo WAILEA RESORT ASSOCIATION GENERAL MANAGER
Frank “Bud” Pikrone
WAILEA DESTINATION LIAISON
Kathleen Costello
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | Executive PRESIDENT
MVP | Creative
Donna W. Kessler
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER
Haines Wilkerson
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CREATIVE COORDINATOR
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CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS
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MVP | Marketing & Sales Support MARKETING & CIRCULATION MANAGER
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Donald Horton
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PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR
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ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATOR
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PHOTO SCANNING/RETOUCH
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E-mails for all MVP employees: firstname.lastname@morris.com
where | HAWAII OFFICES 677 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 700, Honolulu, HI 96813 ph 808.955.2378 fax 808.955.2379
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN
William S. Morris III William S. Morris IV
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Kipa hou mai! (Come visit again!)
Frank “Bud” Pikrone General Manager, Wailea Resort Association For more information about Wailea Resort, please visit www.wailearesortassociation.com. 6
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Copyright 2018 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in U.S.A. Wailea magazine is produced in cooperation with the Wailea Resort Association.
CONTRIBUTORS
Sarah Ruppenthal Behind the Scenes, p. 14, and Raise a Glass, p. 48 She is an award-winning freelance journalist, columnist and contributing writer for a number of regional publications. A resident of Maui’s north shore, she last wrote for Wailea magazine in 2014. In this issue she introduces a new column, Behind the Scenes, highlighting Wailea’s hidden heroes. In “Raise a Glass,” she also explores Wailea’s expanding world of sommeliers and wine.
Hawaiian Islands and the northernmost atoll in the world. The group restored native habitats and removed invasive plants and marine debris to support the monk seals, sea turtles and other rare and endangered marine species. Their only resources were solar power and rain catchment; there was no internet access. But Zach had his camera, and he trained his eye on the wildlife. Back home on Maui, he focuses on the shorebirds of South Maui.
Rick Chatenever
Kyle Ellison The Kumu, p. 24 Maui-based writer Kyle Ellison has written about Maui for Travel + Leisure, Afar, Escape, Travel Channel and other national and regional publications. He has traveled through 65 countries and has authored two editions of the Moon guidebook to Maui, Moloka‘i and Läna‘i. He lives in Kula with his wife and two sons.
Anna Kim
Ilima Loomis
Zach Pezzillo Flights of Fancy, p. 56 Maui native Zach Pezzillo has a deep appreciation for native species and Hawai‘i’s biodiversity. Part of a select group of eight, he recently returned from seven months on Kure Atoll, the most remote of the Northwestern 8
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Maui Is Her Muse, p. 40 Maui resident Ilima Loomis wrote about resort wear and Island chili peppers for the spring/summer issue of this magazine. This time she explores the dynamic visual dimensions of artist Abigail Romanchak. She has written for Popular Science, National Geographic Traveler, Nature and Islands and has also authored an awardwinning book on Hawaiian cowboys.
“I didn’t want to sit behind a computer and design for other clients.” —ABIGAIL ROMANCHAK
A Maui Star Is Turning Heads, p. 32 A regular contributor, Rick Chatenever is the dean of writers on Maui’s film and entertainment scene. He wrote about the Maui Film Festival for the spring/summer issue and is an award-winning journalist, Emmy-nominated scriptwriter and author of a weekly newspaper column about Maui. He teaches English at UH-Maui College.
Mykle Coyne Maui Is Her Muse, p. 40 Photography is Mykle Coyne’s passport into new experiences and adventures. “It allows me to have deep conversations about the most meaningful things in life and connects me with the people in my community,” he says. His photos of Maui artist Abigail Romanchak did just that.
The Kumu, p. 24 Photographer Anna Kim documents destination wedding and has captured family portraits on all the Hawaiian Islands. A native of Minnesota, she’s lived on Maui for the past 10 years. Her images of Hōkūlani Holt are her first contribution to this magazine.
NAVIGATE
Lei of the Land GETTING AROUND WAILEA
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WAILEA is nestled on the leeward side of South Maui. Only 30 minutes from the Kahului Airport, just south of the town of Kīhei, Wailea is easily accessible by automobile. The main entrances to Wailea’s luxurious beachfront resorts are located along Wailea Alanui. All of Wailea’s resorts, along with golf, tennis, dining and shopping, are within a few minutes’ drive of your resort or condominium. The 1.5-mile Coastal Walk affords easy access to the beachfront resorts. Throughout the year, the Wailea Coastal Path provides the ideal location for watching sunsets. The sun melts into the tranquil waters, where paddlers, swimmers and sailboats are a festive sight and dolphins may leap into view. 10
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To Kihei, Kahului Airport and Lahaina
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Island sizes and locations not to scale
WAILEA RESORT MAP KEY 1 Fairmont Kea Lani 2 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 3 Grand Wailea 4 Ho`olei at Grand Wailea 5 Wailea Beach Resort 6 Hotel Wailea 7 Wailea Beach Villas 8 Wailea Elua Village 9 Palms at Wailea 10 Wailea Ekolu Village 11 Wailea Grand Champions Villas
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Wailea Ekahi Village The Shops at Wailea Wailea Town Center Wailea Gateway Center Wailea Tennis Club Wailea Blue Clubhouse Wailea Gold & Emerald Clubhouse 19 Andaz Maui Wailea Resort 20 Wailea Residence Inn 21 Keala O Wailea
Resort Hotels Condominiums Shopping Tennis Golf Courses Beaches Snorkeling Coastal Path Beach Parking
(WATERCOLOR) ©MIKE REAGAN
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6:45 am aboard the Sunrise Deluxe Snorkel Scan with the Layar App to discover more!
Book your adventure at www.kaikanani.com
Discover Hawaii’s most authentic luxury Lu‘au at Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, The Feast at Mokapu. Join us for a beautifully curated cultural and culinary experience set among our iconic grassy lawn and the sandy shore of Mokapu beach. While enjoying interactive story-telling, indulge in an `ohana style meal, and handcrafted cocktails personalized to your liking.
WAILEA GATEWAY CENTER WAILEA GATEWAY CENTER your gateway to great food and fun shops your gateway totop great food and fun shops At the of Wailea Resort At the top of Wailea Resort
Dining Activities Dining••Shopping Shopping ••Activities Health th & & Wellness Wellness ••Services Services Heal 10&&34 34 Wailea Wailea Gateway Gateway Place, Wailea, 10 Wailea, Hawai‘i, Hawai‘i, 96753 96753
BEHIND THE SCENES By SARAH RUPPENTHAL
The Constant Gardener
A day with KEVIN GAVAGAN, landscaping manager and assistant director of engineering at Four Seasons Resort Maui
ALL IT TAKES IS ONE CONVERSATION with Kevin Gavagan
to remind you to stop and smell the flowers. Since 2001, he’s kept a close eye on every frond, bulb and branch on the Four Seasons Resort Maui’s 14-acre property. Here, he talks about his enduring passion for plants and his mission to teach others about the Hawaiian culture through nature’s own works of art.
“I have the great privilege of taking care of 14 acres of Honua‘ula, a place that is very special to me.”
after school and he asked me, “So what are you going to do?” I told him, “I want to learn everything there is to know about plants and what makes them grow.” And he was fine with that. Q: And you went on to study horticulture at the University of Hawai‘i at Mänoa? A: Yes, the botany class interested me so much that I said, “This is what I want to major in.”
Q: When did you first realize you liked to grow things? A: Well, I grew up on a farm in Kula. We planted and harvested small crops like carnations, Chinese peas and string beans. I was always interested in nature and agriculture, and starting at a very early age, I would watch people grow things and try to figure out how to grow it bigger, faster and better.
Q: I’m going to take a wild guess here and assume there’ve been no regrets. A: (Laughs) None at all. Working with plants and the land is what I love to do. It’s always been the connective tissue that links me to who I am. My mother, who was Native Hawaiian, helped me understand that.
Q: Tell me about the botany class that threw a wrench in your career plans. A: When I was in high school, I decided I wanted to be a carpenter. But during my senior year, I took a botany class at Maui Community College. After the first class, I remember thinking, “I want to know more about this.” I had lunch with my dad one day
Q: Do you have a favorite flower or plant? A: That’s a tough question. If I had to narrow it down, I’d say I have an affinity for dark red flowers and native plants. We have 280 plant species here at the Four Seasons, and about 40 of those are native. My goal is to incorporate more of them. Q: What do you enjoy most about your job? A: I don’t see this as work. I have the great privilege of taking care of 14 acres of Honua‘ula [the moku, or district, in which Wailea lies], a place that is very special to me. I am fortunate to do what I love—build gardens, take care of gardens and talk about gardens—and still provide for my family. Q: What would you like visitors to know about Wailea? A: This place is so rich in history and culture. It’s my hope that when people come here, they take the time to let their brains touch other things—the curiosities that will lead them to connect to the stories of this place and the people who lived here before.
Q: How can we learn more about what’s growing at the Four Seasons? A: There’s a website, www.inourgardens.com, that catalogues all of our different plants. I also lead a free cultural garden tour on Friday mornings. Just come to the lobby at 9 a.m. I’ll be there waiting. 14
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©RACHEL OLSSON
Q: I bet a lot of people ask you for plant advice. A: (Laughs) All the time. Sometimes I have to tell them things they don’t want to hear.
the
Greenleaf Diamonds effect...
Faces
OF WA I L E A
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There are many ways to express welcome: an extended hand, a flower lei. But there is nothing quite like a smile of aloha. Photography by RACHEL OLSSON
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Ho‘okipa, the art of hospitality and welcome, is the Wailea signature, reflected throughout the resort.
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AMAZE The experience of a lifetime, every time.
For Reservations Call 808.875.1234 Ext. 51 www.honuaula-luau.com •
@grandwailea
LOCATED AT GRAND WAILEA, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT
CHERISH The experience of a lifetime, every time.
Become an Elite Member • 877.497.2582 www.grandwailea.com • @grandwailea
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MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea
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Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Kahala Hotel, Halekulani OAHU The The Kahala Hotel, Halekulani Halekulani Hotel
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THE KUMU MODERN HAWAIIAN CULTURE'S VOICE OF GRACE AND INTEGRITY: KUMU HÖKÜLANI HOLT By KYLE ELLISON
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Photography by ANNA KIM
Kumu hula Hōkūlani Holt chants in ‘Īao Valley, Wailuku.
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“Hokulani is forever giving and always willing to listen.” —CLIFFORD NAE’OLE
“No child,”
(Above) Holt’s tattoo is rife with family symbolism. (Opposite page) Holt’s chanting has inspired generations of artists.
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says Hōkūlani Holt, “should ever be punished for speaking the language of this place.” The story she’s referencing is that of her grandmother, a woman who, in the 8th grade, was lashed so hard with a buggy whip it broke the buttons on her dress. She’d been asked to stand in front of the class and recite an assignment—in English—although when she reached the front of the room, her mind suddenly went blank. Her silence was met by a roomful of laughs, so when she shot back in her native Hawaiian, her teacher reached for the whip. “Growing up,” says Holt, “I heard my grandmother tell that story—and she told it more than once. So, when I had the opportunity to help open a Hawaiian language preschool (Pūnana Leo o Maui), I used that as inspiration.” That was in 1987, and in the 30-plus years that have passed since then, the school has helped over 600 families achieve Hawaiian immersion. While that in itself is a massive accomplishment, it’s just one chapter in the life of “Aunty Hōkū,” a kumu—teacher—who’s so revered and respected that some have called her “the matriarch of modern Hawaiian culture.” Considering her humility, she’d likely dismiss the term with a wave. But if you speak with anyone in the community who has had the chance to work with her, the mere mention of her name invariably elicits a deep and palpable respect. Kamehameha Schools has presented her its “Native Hawaiian Community Educator of the Year” award. She has been a judge at Merrie Monarch, the world’s largest and most prominent hula competition. She serves as the cultural programs director for the Maui Arts and Cultural Center and is now the director of Ka Hikina o ka Lā, a program at University of Hawai‘i Maui College that encourages the fusion of traditional culture in studies of modern science. And yet, despite the accolades and her immeasurable level of influence, she remains approachable and down to earth. She takes the time to talk with you as if you’re the only person in the room. Clifford Nae‘ole, himself a respected cultural adviser, wholeheartedly agrees. “Hōkūlani is forever giving and always willing to listen. She’s extremely proud of her heritage and culture, and her knowledge is a
quintessential example of ‘ancient wisdom.’ She’s a beacon that draws many youth, and adults, under her wing.” Those two words, “youth” and “adults,” cut to the heart of the exponential impact she’s had on the community. Having been a kumu, the highest level of hula instructor, for over 40 years, and having shared her deep cultural knowledge with generations of youth, she has watched her haumāna, or students, grow into adulthood and pass on the ‘ike (knowledge) they learned from her. Kaimana Brummel, the former director of Hawaiian Canoe Club on Maui, attended the Pūnana Leo preschool that Holt helped found. “This one time,” she recalls, “I was researching names for two new canoes that were going to join our club. We traditionally name them after ancient chiefs, and Hōkū, who served as our cultural adviser, would usually name the canoes. That time, however, she said, ‘Kaimana, you do it. It’s your time to do this.’ So I did my research, settled on two names, and when I ran the names by Aunty Hōkū, she looked at me, like, ‘Why you asking me? This is what’s right because that’s what you have found.’” Brummel finishes her story with a tremble in her voice. “She laid this foundation so that when we became adults, we’d be able to do this.” As you speak with Holt’s students and try to map the web of her interconnected influence, you will find this sentiment time and again, of foundational knowledge passed on. There are few more striking examples of this than what happened this past April at Hilo’s Merrie Monarch Festival. Kumu hula Nāpua Greig not only saw her hālau win top honors, but also watched as one of her students was awarded the title of Miss Aloha Hula, the competition’s top individual award. Greig was one of Hōkū’s students, and she’s now gone on to share that knowledge with a new generation of dancers. Also taking home some of the festival’s top honors: Hālau Hi‘iakainamakalehua, led by Lono Padilla, Holt’s son. In her four decades as a kumu hula, only six people who’ve trained under her have passed their ‘uniki, or graduation challenge, to achieve the rank of kumu hula, as determined by cultural fluency. Nāpua and Lono are two of those six. Achieving the rank requires cultural knowledge that far exceeds learning to dance: It means you’ve mastered history and legend and are proficient in everything from determining the significance of patterns to use on a dress, to
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“She laid this foundation so that when we became adults, we’d be able to do this.” —KAIMANA BRUMMEL
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“My grandparents ... lived Hawaiian culture.” —HOKULANI HOLT
where, how, and why to gather a certain fern for a dance. There is no Western academic counterpart to the totality of this achievement. “I will always say this about hula,” says Holt. “It’s supposed to look easy, almost effortless. But in order to get to the point where it looks effortless, there’s a minimum of 10 years of really hard practice.” In 2001 she took that knowledge global. Along with two other esteemed female kumu hula, Pualani Kanaka‘ole Kanahele and Leinā‘ala Kalama-Heine, she founded Ka Aha Hula ‘O Hālauola, a multiday festival of workshops and excursions dedicated to the art form’s cultural, physical and poetic foundations. Held every four years across the Islands, it has attracted students from 15 countries and 25 U.S. states, with participants traveling from as far away as Germany, Holland, Mexico and Japan. The conference is less about exporting hula and more about importing dancers who practice hula back home and need to experience the Islands firsthand. “If you do hula elsewhere in the world,” says Holt, “but you’ve never seen Hawai‘i’s environment, then you miss what the composer is trying to relate to you. When they compare their child to a sweet gardenia, if you have never held, seen or smelled a gardenia, you cannot know how deeply that thrills you. I think those who do not know what hula is about really miss what Hawai‘i is about.” To many it’s simply seen as a dance, but hula is poetry that tells stories of place, where the movements are simply visual representations of words to the mele, or song. “So when visitors come to Hawai‘i,” she continues, “they should know that hula is the deepest expression of the composer, and that the words are the most important thing, and the dance is an expression of the words.” Holt learned hula from her mother and aunt, but much of her deep “ancient wisdom,” to use the term from Na‘eole, was gleaned from her grandparents, who raised her on Maui. “My grandparents didn’t teach me Hawaiian culture,” she says. “They lived Hawaiian culture. They lived their life, and I lived it with them. I was never taught about ho‘okipa (hospitality), or that ha‘aha‘a (humility) has a name. All you know is what you observe in your home, and you begin to know and follow their lead in cultural behaviors and outlooks.”
Interestingly, despite her grandmother’s childhood story, there was one thing Holt never learned in the home: how to speak Hawaiian. “My grandparents taught me phrases, and how to pray, but not to be conversant. This was a time when people were told that if you spoke Hawaiian to your children in the home, they would grow up and be stupid. That was only used to keep the people down. But you say it enough times and it becomes everyone’s truth.” She’d eventually learn to speak Hawaiian in college, but aside from the language, it was, as Clifford Na‘eole says, “her ability to draw back into her lineage and allow that mana to guide her teachings” that made her such a magnetic force in perpetuating the culture. “For a lot of people in that generation,” says Brummel, “she was the source, the peer that knew,” since a lot of people were raised in a time when Hawaiian culture was suppressed. Even in 1987, Holt recalls, when she enrolled her daughter in Pūnana Leo o Maui, a familiar refrain was, “‘What good is it to be fluent in Hawaiian? It’s not going to help their future.’ Those who felt it was a detriment to a child, rather than an asset, still had the tape recorder of three generations playing inside their head.” Today her daughter, Kani‘au, has two bachelor’s degrees, one master’s degree and a doctorate in education, and she also holds a teaching position at UH Maui College. Adding to Holt’s teachings, knowledge and programs is her cultural and environmental activism. She continues to serve as Commissioner for KIRC, the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission. The island, visible from Wailea, was used as a bombing target by the U.S. military for nearly 50 years. Holt has been involved with the island for over 30 years. She built platforms for hula in the days when the island was still being bombed. She coordinated cleanups, enacted legislation and led cultural restoration. “To me,” she says of Kaho‘olawe, “the island is a microcosm of all that was and is now happening for Hawaiians. It’s that which was ignored, that which was abused, that which was reclaimed, and that which is looking to growth for the future. It will take lifetimes for that island to live as it should, and while we’ll never see the fruits of our labor over there, that doesn’t matter, because the fruits of the labor will be enjoyed by my grandchildren, my great-grandchildren, and that, to me, is enough.”
(Opposite page) Kapono‘ai Molitau made Holt's ipu so she could sit on a chair or floor to chant.
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A Maui Star Is Turning Heads LILY MEOLA MAY BE YOUNG, BUT SHE'S A WISE OLD SOUL
Story by RICK CHATENEVER Photography by RACHEL OLSSON AMONG OTHER EXOTIC FORMS OF WILDLIFE on this remote tropical island, Maui has a lot of silver-maned musical icons, legends and superstars. For openers: Willie Nelson, Kris Kristofferson, Mick Fleetwood and Steven Tyler. Singer-songwriter Lily Meola is barely 24, and she has already sung with them all. She’s toured with Willie and played at his Farm Aid concert. She frequently performs with the next generation of Nelsons—Willie’s sons, Lukas and Micah—and some of the biggest names in Hawaiian music, such as guitar virtuosos Willie K and Makana. “Lily is the real deal,” says longtime Maui resident Shep Gordon, renowned entertainment producer and subject of Mike Meyers’ documentary, “Supermensch: The Legend of Shep Gordon.” “The only thing better than her voice is her personality.” “Lily Meola’s surprising voice—smoky, sultry, tender and strong—comes from somewhere timeless, yet somehow new,” noted The singer in her upcountry aerie.
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She doesn’t think of herself as a country singer, but she does qualify as a country girl, Maui-style. singer-songwriter Jackson Browne when he first heard a recording she sent. “This voice and these songs spring from a place so deep in the country and jazz traditions that they will be heard as fresh and original by her generation, and deeply rooted in the greatest music of all time by mine.” She was born and raised in the beach-surf culture of Maui’s north shore, from laid-back Pā‘ia and lush Hā‘iku to the wild waves of nearby beaches. Lately she’s been spending time in L.A. and Nashville studios, writing and recording. She can do “Me and Bobby McGee” with the guy who wrote it, channeling the voice that made the song immortal. She can take center stage with Willie Nelson’s band, lighting up the stage like a ray of sunshine. She morphs from the band’s kid sister one moment, to a honky-tonk angel, to an alluring heart-stealing chanteuse. “Lily is on a stellar rise, and rightfully so,” says Willie Nelson. “She is a great writer, singer and performer, and has a wonderful
future. I’ve watched her grow, literally and professionally. I have enjoyed recording and performing with her and look forward to doing it again.” “I’m so lucky that he took me under his wing and helped me out, as a performer and as a role model,” Lily says as she relaxes in her rural Hā‘iku living room with a couple of dogs at her feet. “He showed me what it should be like to be a human. There are so many people out there of his stature, who are not generous and kind. His life has such a grace. He’s in his 80s … I’m 24 and I’m tired. I don’t know how he does it.” She doesn’t think of herself as a country singer, but she does qualify as a country girl, Maui-style. Her parents, Nancy and Gary, are long divorced, but both were very involved bringing up Lily and her brother, Matt. Nancy is Shep Gordon’s assistant in his wideranging Alive Enterprises entertainment management company, and she became the “momager” guiding her kids on their chosen paths. Matt Meola is now a pro surfer and sponsored outdoorsman with a range of skills in the ocean and on the land. “I grew up here, in the country,” says Lily. “I feel like I live on a farm pretty much. We always had so many animals. I got my boots on, and I’ve got my baby deer …” The deer’s name is Doe-nut. Matt had shot her mother when he was bow-hunting with friends. When they realized the doe was pregnant, they performed a C-section, then brought the baby home to Lily. Matt’s best friend, Geoff Hunter, had died in a tragic diving accident a short time earlier, devastating the entire Meola family. It’s the subject of one of Lily’s songs. For Lily, saving the deer was the path back to healing. “I had to feed her every two hours throughout the night. She slept with me. We all took turns taking care of her. I had to focus on her—I really wanted her to survive.” This quality of caring, along with silliness, zest—and of course the amazing voice—add to the unique spell she casts. Doing the interview for this story, a butterfly lands on her chest, over her heart. Really. Her mother, Nancy, recalls that Lily still had braces on her teeth when she started singing in Maui cafes and clubs at age 12. “I don’t know how I ended up where I am right now,” Lily says. “My mom’s a big factor. She was so supportive. She said, ‘Oh, you
(This page) Animals are cherished and cared for in the Meola home. (Opposite page) Lily with Doe-nut, a deer she raised after it was rescued from its dying mother's womb. 34
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For Lily, saving the deer was the path back to healing. “I had to feed her every two hours throughout the night. She slept with me ... I really wanted her to survive.�
“Darling, don’t quit your daydream. It’s your life as you make it. It ain’t big enough if it doesn’t scare the hell out of you... If it makes you nervous, it’s probably worth it. Why save it for sleep when you could be living your daydream.” From “Daydream” by Lily Meola, Casey Brown and Maggie Chapman
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like to sing? Let’s get you playing, let’s get you gigs. Learn some songs, go to singing lessons, take it seriously.’” Her earliest musical impulses came when she was still in a car seat, with recordings of Nancy’s favorite artists along for the ride. One day the Ella Fitzgerald standard, “A Tisket, A Tasket,” appeared to be happening in stereo. Turning down the music, Nancy realized the other voice was Lily’s in the back seat, matching the incomparable jazz singer note for note, including the scatting. “The old stuff my mom would listen to in the car really influenced me,” says Lily. “The old jazz standards, Joni Mitchell, Nina Simone … I love the way they would say things. There’s something wonderful about Ella Fitzgerald’s inflections.” She had a flair for mimicry almost as soon as she started talking. She could do animal sounds, and her foreign accents were impeccable. Nancy would ask her to speak French, or German, or Japanese, and Lily would go into monologues. The words were nonsense. The inflections were perfect. This highly tuned ear-voice coordination may have stemmed from severe dyslexia in her childhood. She couldn’t read, even after repeating first grade. She was a spirited child. Those years were challenging for everyone. It wasn’t until Nancy got her to Haleakalā Waldorf School, with its focus on artistic expression and letting kids be kids, that Lily began to blossom. She was barely tall enough to reach the microphone when she first sang “A Tisket, A Tasket” at the Waldorf Christmas Faire. Once, her mother recalls, she was cast as Dulcinea in the school’s production of “Man of La Mancha,” and “she said, ‘That’s what I want to do.’” In her formative years, Lily worked with a string of local accompanists and received guidance from, among others, Grammy-winning Maui producer Bob Rock. Her mom would drive her to gigs; she had been performing for years before she was old enough to drive. Growing up, her family was friends with the Nelsons, who lived nearby. Matt homeschooled for a time with Lukas and Micah. “I feel like they’re my brothers, and Annie (Nelson) is like another mom to me,” says Lily. Annie would bring Willie to hear Lily singing in Pā’ia, and one night, in the tiny Café des Amis, he sat in with her on his classic, “Crazy.”
“School was super hard for me. I never thought I could write a song … or a paragraph … or a text message. I am so dyslexic, it’s not even funny.” On a napkin, Willie wrote the names of some songs for her to learn. When his “For All the Girls” CD came out, their duet “Will You Remember Mine?” was alongside his collaborations with some of the leading female vocalists of our time. Maui is still small and casual, a long way from the usual stress of the entertainment industry. Island musicians, superstars included, are a tight-knit community. They show up to play at each other’s gigs, from cozy clubs to the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, better known as the MACC. Now Lily is part of the bill when she’s on island, as she was at last March’s Concert for Our Lives. She was there with Willie, Kris, Steven, Mick, Willie K and others, performing in support of youthled marches on Maui and across the country for gun control and voter registration.
Her mom would drive her to gigs; she had been performing for years before she was old enough to drive.
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“I definitely want to make people feel a certain way. Just an emotion. I want them to feel the music.” “The day was amazing,” she says. “It was pouring rain the day before and the day of, but as soon as the concert started, it cleared up. I played to one of the most amazing sunsets I’ve ever seen. I almost stopped singing and told everybody to turn around and take a look at it. It seemed as though Maui was happy and thanking everyone for coming together.” After gaining attention in the industry as a vocalist, Lily has now entered the next phase of her career. Encouraged by Nashville entertainment manager Leslie DiPiero, she discovered she can write. “Music for me for the first 10 years was covers of other people’s songs. School was super hard for me. I never thought I could write a song … or a paragraph … or a text message. I am so dyslexic, it’s not even funny.” But now, under contract to Innerscope Records, she has spent time in London and Paris, but mostly L.A., in the studio almost every day. “I’ve fallen in love with writing. To be able to pull from my deepest feelings and thoughts and create music out of them is pretty rewarding, in some ways therapeutic. Finally some words from my own dang mouth. I’m really trying to make this project unique to me, so I’ve been taking my sweet time and really creating my sound.” The plan calls for an album, then a tour. On the road, one thing that’s never been a problem is stage fright. “It doesn’t faze me, at all,” she says. Unlike artists living for the audience’s attention or adulation, she’s up there for other reasons. “I definitely want to make people feel a certain way. Just an emotion. I want them to feel the music.” Three years ago, after touring and recording for the first time with Willie Nelson, the singer was asked if she worried that too much was happening too soon. “Too much wonderful,” she answered. Reminded of that comment now, she smiles at the memory. “I still feel that way,” she says. “Even more.”
Lily Meola was in a lineup that included Jack Johnson, Steven Tyler, Willie Nelson, Kris Kristofferson, Mick Fleetwood and Willie K at Maui’s Concert for Our Lives, March 24 at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center. Organized by legendary entertainment producer and longtime Maui resident Shep Gordon, it followed a student-led march protesting gun violence after February’s high-school shootings in Parkland, Fla. A pink guitar from Mick Fleetwood Band manager Bill Pie was signed by the concert artists and donated to the show. Students were admitted free to the historic event, where a brilliant sunset suddenly emerged from a sodden sky. 38
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MAUI IS HER MUSE AN ARTIST HONORS HER ROOTS
Story by ILIMA LOOMIS Photography by MYKLE COYNE
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ABIGAIL ROMANCHAK adds her weight to the wheel
of the printing press in her airy home studio on Maui’s Makawao Avenue. The heavy roller trundles over her work. Using a manual press may have been partly an economic decision for this Upcountry artist, but it also fits with her attraction to the tactile and hands-on process of printmaking. “I kind of like to be in control,” she says, pausing to catch her breath. “I like rolling the roller over the print myself, rather than standing back and letting a machine make my print for me.” After making a second pass with the press and cranking the roller back to its starting position, she peels back the layers of felt and protective newsprint to reveal a deeply embossed square of thick, creamy paper. Romanchak runs her fingers appreciatively over the deep grooves and ridges—even before seeing it, she can tell the print has turned out well. As she lifts the paper delicately off the woodcut and turns it over, she inspects the bold, abstract lines of her print, checking for imperfections in the still-drying ink. The woodcut plate is from one of her early works, an enlarged and abstracted study of the tiny watermarks beaten into the textures of Hawaiian kapa. Over the years, Hawaiian culture and the natural environment have consistently informed her work. But while she’s created prints inspired by themes ranging from coral reefs to Kīlauea volcano, Romanchak’s conceptual, nonrepresentational approach has set her apart from more traditional local artists. “I don’t fit into the Maui art scene,” Romanchak acknowledges. “I’ve said no to many galleries on the island, just because I don’t think it’s the right fit.” (Her work has been shown at the Maui Arts and Cultural Center and the Hui No‘eau, and can be seen as part of the Four Seasons Resort Maui’s permanent collection.) Her work has earned her the attention of collectors, shows and galleries around the world. Prestigious institutions have acquired her work: the Hawai‘i State Foundation on Culture and the Arts, the Hawai‘i State Art Museum, the Australia National Museum, the White House, the Smithsonian. In April her work was shown in a pop-up gallery in Tokyo, and she participated in a group exhibition of contemporary Hawaiian artists that is currently traveling between museums in Germany. “That was so exciting,” she says. “To be included with those artists was humbling and such an honor. And to know that work from this tiny studio in Makawao was going all the way to Germany and being seen by so many viewers—gosh, what an opportunity.” For that work, created with help from a 2015 fellowship with the Native Arts and Cultures Foundation, the show’s theme of “Aloha ‘Āina” inspired Romanchak to take a closer look at ... phytoplankton? “That base layer of the food chain is what supports marine life all over the world,” she says. She blew up images of diatoms, a type of phytoplankton found in Hawai‘i’s coral reefs, and zeroed in on the organism’s skeletal wall; the proper formation of this structure is considered an indicator of the ecosystem’s overall health. The final work, a series of lacy, organic, black-andwhite prints, highlights the complex, interconnected structures she calls “microscopic maps of wellness or destruction” in Hawaiian waters.
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Over the years, Hawaiian culture and the natural environment have consistently informed her work. (Opposite page) Romanchak’s process is physical, tactile and organic. (Above) Woodcuts from Romanchak's “Tracked” installation at the Biennial, The Contemporary Museum, Honolulu.
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“It’s about asking the viewer to think about hidden phenomena ...” Romanchak says she likes “tempting the viewer to dig deeper” with her work. If an image is visually striking or unusual, she hopes it will spark a viewer’s curiosity to lean in and learn more. Other series were inspired by the outlines of Kahului tax map keys and the movements of conservation workers in the East Maui Watershed as traced by GPS signals. “It often comes back to land in Hawaii,” she says. “It’s not a screaming, in-your-face political commentary—that’s not who I am. It’s more about asking the viewer to think about hidden phenomena they might see every day.” Her most recent work takes an even more elemental perspective on the idea of land. Last year, Romanchak was invited to participate in a pop-up exhibition of the Smithsonian Asia Pacific American Center in Honolulu. Reflecting on the show’s theme of ‘ae kai, or the convergence of land and water, she was drawn to the ideas of volcanic eruption. As she dug into the topic, she came across seismographic
readings of earthquakes and tremors at Kīlauea volcano and was instantly drawn to the patterns of sharp, severe lines and white space. She was struck by how the lines read like a musical score, evoking the reverberation of Earth moving, or, as she puts it, “the unceasing chanting of the land.” “The visual data was exciting to work with, but I also was thinking about land in Hawai‘i, especially in the 21st century, when so much land is being developed and commercialized so that it’s almost unrecognizable,” she says. “To work with magma, this source of new land, land we’re not in control of—that resonated with me on an emotional level.” It also spoke to a chapter of Romanchak’s family history. Although she did not know him, her grandfather, Agatin Abbott, was a longtime geologist at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa and the author of the book “Volcanoes in the Sea.”
(Opposite page) The piece is inspired by seismographic readings of Kīlauea volcano. (This page) A woodcut suggesting embossed watermarks on kapa.
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Her unique medium is a synergy of vision, technique, pigment and hands-on physicality. 46
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“I thought a lot about him,” she says. “His presence was certainly felt as I was working on these woodcuts.” Romanchak ended up collaborating with Honolulu printmaker Charles Cohan, her former teacher and mentor at the University of Hawai‘i, who was working on a project with similar themes. The two then went back to the studio to do more work on the prints, adding more layers and incorporating additional techniques, to create an installation for the Honolulu Museum of Art. “We thought, ‘What would happen if we tore the prints down, printed over them, reconfigured them,’” she says. “We were both really satisfied with the final layout.” Born on Maui, with Native Hawaiian heritage that traces to Kaua‘i, Romanchak began dabbling in art as a senior at Seabury Hall after an injury sidelined her from volleyball and tennis. “I spent a lot of time in the art room and the ceramics lab, because I couldn’t be active in sports,” she recalls. “I realized, ‘Wow, I really enjoy being here.’” At the University of Hawai‘i, she took as many art classes as she could, never quite believing she could succeed as a studio artist, but never giving up on that dream. “I kept the faith that I was meant to be an artist,” she says. “I didn’t want to sit behind a computer and design for other clients. I wanted to be the maker. I wanted to be using my own ideas and my own hands.” She gravitated toward printmaking, attracted to the craftsmanship involved in techniques like screen printing, lithography, etching and woodcut, and intrigued by the element of unpredictability. “With printmaking, it’s so process-based, and there’s a lot that can happen in that process,” she says. “You think you know what you might get, but until you actually run it through the press and peel back the paper, there’s always an element of mystery involved.” Plus, she adds, “I like ink on paper—I’m a paper geek.” After a stint teaching art to fourth- and fifth-graders at Punahou School in Honolulu, Romanchak took a leap of faith and left the security of employment to pursue her own work full time, moving home to Maui, renting a cottage in Keokea, and turning her garage into a printmaking studio. “I felt it was a decision I had to make: are you going to be an art teacher, or are you going to be a studio artist?” These days, Romanchak juggles her work in the studio with caring for her six- and three-year old children. But her family life also feeds into her work. Husband Jordan Jokiel, land manager for Haleakalā Ranch, is a longtime Maui conservationist who previously worked for The Nature Conservancy and served as director of the East Maui Watershed Partnership. (The two met on an “art hike” he led into the Waikamoi Preserve.) “We talk about my work all the time,” she says. Her next project is keeping herself immersed in the natural world. Romanchak is looking for funding to develop an installation based on the spectrograms, or sound graphs, of Native Hawaiian birdsongs—she’s fascinated by the idea of visually representing the rare and delicate voices of forest birds, both living and extinct. At her computer, she clicks on an audio file from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, as entranced by the patterns of the black-and-white lines of the graph scrolling across the screen as she is by the rhythmic trills and chirps. “They’re haunting,” she says. “I thought they would translate beautifully in print.”
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WOMEN MAKE THEIR MARK ON THE WINE SCENE Story by SARAH RUPPENTHAL Photography by RACHEL OLSSON
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
Raise a Glass
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
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“It’s a finessedriven industry. I think it’s a good fit for women.” —PAULA HEGELE (This page) Robust Syrah grapes grown at MauiWine vineyard. (Opposite page) Paula Hegele at work.
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Paula Hegele says she never imagined she’d be running a winery someday. “My background is in banking and sales and marketing,” she says. “I knew nothing about wine until I took this job. But it’s become my passion.” Hegele is the president of MauiWine, the island’s only winery, located on Ulupalakua Ranch, a 20,000-acre property on the southern slopes of Haleakalā. Formerly Tedeschi Vineyards, MauiWine was co-founded in 1974 by C. Pardee Erdman, owner of Ulupalakua Ranch, and Napa Valley winemaker Emil Tedeschi. As the head of MauiWine, Hegele is helping to redefine the wine industry. In what has been a traditionally male-dominated field, women are no longer a rarity. They’ve joined the steadily growing ranks of female winemakers (including Maui singer and entrepreneur Amy Hänaiali‘i, who has her own signature Napa Valley merlot and chardonnay), winery owners, winery presidents, beverage directors, critics, connoisseurs, and sommeliers. These women are shaking up the old boys’ club, and Hegele says she expects the trend to continue. Apart from a woman’s biological instinct to nurture (which lends itself well to grape-growing), she says, “It’s a finesse-driven industry. I think it’s a good fit for women.”
She and her husband moved in 1980 to Maui, where the Washington State native soon found herself yearning for the open road. That longing prompted her to take long drives to the winery on weekends. “I called it my ‘Sunday drive series,’” she laughs. “That’s when I first fell in love with ‘Ulupalakua.” After a six-year hiatus on Kaua‘i, Hegele and her husband moved back to Maui in 1989. That was the year they were invited to a tasting event at the vineyard, where she struck up a conversation with the winery’s general manager. He was so impressed by her business expertise that he offered her a job a few weeks later. In her new role as assistant to the general manager, Hegele became intrigued by the complicated logistics of grape-growing and harvesting, and she began to see wine through a different lens. She took the helm as the winery’s president in 1995 and set out to give it a reboot. In the ensuing years, she breathed new life into the vineyard, production facility and tasting room. Under her direction, the 23-acre vineyard was replanted in 2000 and again in 2012, and the winery was rebranded as MauiWine in 2016. Today the vineyard grows a variety of grapes, including Syrah, Malbec, Grenache, Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Gewürztraminer. You’ll find MauiWine’s estate wines, pineapple wines and sparkling wines at restaurants and retail locations throughout Wailea Resort, and on wine lists at the Fairmont Kea Lani, Grand Wailea, Andaz Maui and Wailea Beach Resort-Marriott, Maui. Hegele says she’s happy to be among the women who are making their mark on Hawai‘i’s wine scene. “I’m lucky to be involved in a fascinating wine adventure,” she says. Faith Schroeder, restaurant manager of DUO Steak and Seafood at Four Seasons Resort Maui, shares that sentiment. Of the resort’s 18 aspiring introductory-level and certified sommeliers, there are five women, of which she is the only certified sommelier. “It’s exciting to be a woman in this field,” she says. “It’s good to be a part of a bigger movement.” You might think a sommelier (also known as a “somm”) is someone who has mastered the art of describing, uncorking and pouring a bottle of wine, but there’s much more to their profession. Among other things, they curate wine lists, manage inventory, train staff, conduct tastings, consult with chefs and plan wine dinners and other special events. They also pair wine (along with beer, spirits, and other beverages) with different foods and have an encyclopedic knowledge of trends, vineyards, producers and the intricacies of viticulture and winemaking. Case in point: In a blind tasting,
(IMAGES ON NEXT SPREAD) ©MAUIWINE
Looking back on it now
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Schroeder has been trained to identify the grape variety and growing region; she can also tell you the approximate (if not exact) vintage and regional climate. Research suggests that women are physiologically suited for the job: They have a heightened sense of smell, with 43 percent more cells and nearly 50 percent more neurons than men in their olfactory bulb, the region of the brain that receives signals from the nose. Regardless of gender, it’s no easy feat to become a sommelier. The Court of Master Sommeliers was established in 1977 to standardize beverage knowledge and service in hotels and restaurants worldwide. It administers four increasingly rigorous levels of coursework and exams, culminating in the invitation-only master sommelier diploma exam. Schroeder passed Level 2 and is a certified sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. She is now preparing for Level 3, the advanced sommelier course and exam. It’s not only mentally strenuous and time-consuming, but it can also be quite costly. Apart from tuition, books and travel expenses, candidates must continually taste wines to prepare for each exam, usually on their own dime. “It really is a labor of love,” Schroeder says. That’s especially true for those who take the notoriously difficult master sommelier diploma exam, considered one of hardest tests in the world. Since the inception of the Court of Master Sommeliers 41 years ago, only 247 people in the world have earned the highly coveted title of master sommelier; 157 of them are in North America. Of that exclusive group, 132 are men and 25 are women. Hawai‘i’s four master sommeliers are all on O‘ahu: trailblazer Chuck Furuya (Hawai‘i’s first master sommelier and the tenth person in the United States to earn the designation in 1988), Roberto Viernes, Patrick Okubo and David Yoshida. Like Hegele, Schroeder says she surprised everyone, including herself, when she decided to plunge into the wine world. After high school, the San Diego native headed to upstate New York to attend the Culinary Institute of America, her sights squarely set on becoming a chef. On the first day of her mandatory wine tasting course, Schroeder, then a true novice, says she walked into the classroom feeling apprehensive. “No one in my family drinks wine, so I knew nothing about it. I’d never even tasted it before,” she laughs. All it took was one sip. Faith says she was captivated by the scope and complexity of wine—so much, in fact, that she registered for several wine and beverage elective courses and signed up for a semester-long immersion program in Napa Valley. There, she
deepened her understanding of food and wine pairing, viticulture and winemaking, and not long after, began charting a course to become a sommelier. Today Schroeder keeps a close eye on emerging wine trends, which tend to originate on the East Coast and slowly move westward. She’s seen it all, from vegan-friendly brands to rosé in a can, and everything in between. As for Wailea Resort, she says there’s no prevailing trend (although a perennial favorite seems to be Champagne and its Italian cousin, prosecco). That’s why you’ll find a range of sparkling, white, and red wines at varying price points on the wine lists at DUO and other Wailea restaurants. In fact, the one constant is that the trends are always changing—and that’s a good thing. There’s a story behind every bottle, so no matter where you’re dining, if there’s a sommelier on duty, Schroeder encourages you to ask them questions. A wine list can be intimidating—particularly for those of us who balk at esoteric terms and unpronounceable names—but a sommelier is there to help. “It’s what we are trained to do—and what we want to do,” she says. In fact, she is elated when guests ask her to walk them through DUO’s wine list and relishes the opportunity to pair wine with a meal. “It’s all about the food,” she explains. “Food and wine have to play well together, not fight.” While there’s certainly nothing wrong with a tried-and-true selection, Schroeder says she couldn’t be more thrilled when guests step outside their comfort zones. “I love it when I can say, ‘Let me introduce you to something you will like,’” she says. “Wine should be adventurous. When I see a surprised smile or a satisfied smile, I know I’ve hit the right note. There’s nothing better than that.”
(Opposite page) An oenophile’s dream. (Above) Faith Schroeder, certified sommelier and restaurant manager at DUO, Four Seasons Resort Maui.
“It’s all about the food. Food and wine have to play well together, not fight.” —FAITH SCHROEDER
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Flights of Fancy IT'S MAUI'S BEAK SEASON Photography by ZACH PEZZILLO
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(Opposite page) ‘I‘iwi, Drepanis coccinea, in Maui’s uplands. (This page) ‘Amakihi, Chlorodrepanis virens. Both are honeycreepers.
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(Opposite page) ‘Alae ke‘oke‘o, the Hawaiian Coot, Fulica alai. (This page) Maui ‘Alauahio, Paroreomyza montana newtoni.
They are elusive, yet commanding on land. wailea
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
Blue is language, color, world.
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
(Opposite page and this page) Ae‘o, Hawaiian Stilt, Himantopus mexicanus knudseni.
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(Opposite page) Kiwikiu, Maui Parrotbill, Pseudonestor xanthophrys. (This page) ‘Auku‘u, Black-crowned Night Heron, Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli.
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Perched or in flight, fleeting.
Photographer Zach Pezzillo hiked to Maui’s remote upland forests and rugged coastal wetlands to spend three to four hours at a time in the same spot, motionless, waiting for his subjects to appear. “Forest birds don’t sit around, they flit,” he says. He would drive an hour from Ha‘ikū, carry his weighty equipment, wait for the light at 4 to 5 a.m., get his shots and go home to edit, then return in late afternoon. He recently returned from Kure Atoll in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, where he was among eight international environmentalists who lived, at subsistence level, for eight months while doing conservation work. In an extension of this prestigious assignment, he will return to Kure this winter. wailea
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[THE GUIDE]
©M.M. SWEET/GETTY IMAGES
Dine, shop and explore the sights of Wailea
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[ T H E G U I D E ] EXPLORE
The Recipe for a Perfect Day
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©MATT ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES
WA I L E A P R O P E RT I E S
VACATIONERS AND COASTAL DWELLERS tout the recreational aspects of a sun-drenched life at the shore, but it’s really much more. There’s a reason snowbirds are drawn to Hawai‘i. Great weather, Kodachrome sunsets, whale-watching and endless days at the beach are more than most people could ask for, but there’s another, less obvious reason for the world’s attraction to the beach life. Sunshine. It’s not just enjoyable recreation, it’s part of basic health and healing. A condition called “seasonal affective disorder,” or SAD, afflicts many in parts of the world where sunlight is scarce during fall and winter months. With depression and moodiness as typical symptoms, it’s no wonder that light therapy is a significant component of the treatment. Fortunately in Hawai‘i, and especially in resorts like Wailea, abundant sunshine is a year-round feature. Islanders celebrate sunshine, weather and beach life as essential elements of a healthy and balanced life. Renowned the world over for its location, amenities and events, South Maui is the definitive destination for luxury travelers seeking not just fun and activities, but also a lifestyle of wellness and well-being. That means healing and rejuvenation, topnotch accommodations, golf, tennis, yoga, massage, beauty salons, watersports and the arts. And, yes, the therapeutic benefits of sunshine and beautiful surroundings. There are three 18-hole championship golf courses—the Emerald, Gold and Blue—and the 11 state-of-the-art Wailea Tennis Courts. In and on the water, snorkeling, swimming, kayaking and stand-up paddling are year-round adventures. So are the weddings, honeymoons and bridal parties that draw guests from all over the world. Distinguished chefs offer a stream of delicacies in Wailea’s dining rooms, and the aloha spirit is everywhere. As it has been from the beginning, the sense of wholeness is palpable. Wailea will never deviate from its core value of impeccable service and aloha, expressed with the extended hand of welcome.
ANDAZ MAUI WAILEA RESORT andazmaui.com
FAIRMONT KEA LANI fairmont.com/kealani
FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAUI AT WAILEA fourseasons.com/maui
GRAND WAILEA grandwailea.com
HOTEL WAILEA hotelwailea.com
RESIDENCE INN MAUI AT WAILEA residenceinnmauiwailea.com
THE SHOPS AT WAILEA shopsatwailea.com
WAILEA BEACH RESORT waileamarriott.com
WAILEA GATEWAY CENTER wailea-gateway.com
WAILEA GOLF CLUB waileagolf.com
WAILEA RESORT ASSOCIATION wailearesortassociation.com
WAILEA TENNIS CENTER waileatennis.com
WAILEA TOWN CENTER waileatowncenter.info
WAILEA VILLAGE CENTER
wailea
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[ T H E G U I D E ] DINE
AMA BAR & GRILL Fairmont Kea Lani
808.875.4100 / Hawai‘i Modern BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea
808.875.1234 / Island Cuisine BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea
808.875.1234 / Cocktails BUMBYE BEACH BAR Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
808.573.1234 / Cocktails CAFÉ KULA MARKETPLACE Grand Wailea
808.875.1234 / Gourmet Market CAFFÉ CIAO BAKERY & MARKET Fairmont Kea Lani
808.875.4100 / Gourmet Market CHEESEBURGER GRILLE & TAP ROOM The Shops at Wailea
808.874.8990 / American THE COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF The Shops at Wailea
808.891.2045 / Coffee Shop
MOKAPU MARKET Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
808.875.7710 / Lu‘au Show
808.573.1234 / 24-Hour Market
HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN
Wailea Beach Resort
Wailea Gateway Center
808.879.4655 / Seafood/Sushi
808.891.2322 / Handcrafted
HUMUHUMUNUKUNUKUAPUA‘A
MORIMOTO MAUI
Grand Wailea
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
808.875.1234 / Hawai‘i Seasonal
808.243.4766 / Japanese
ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS
MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE
The Shops at Wailea
100 Kaukahi St.
808.874.5055 / Deli/Sushi/Market
808.874.1131 / Irish/American
KA‘ANA KITCHEN
NICK’S FISHMARKET MAUI
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
Fairmont Kea Lani
808.573.1234 / Hawai‘i Regional
808.879.7224 / Modern/Seafood
KAPA BAR & GRILL
THE PINT & CORK
Wailea Beach Resort
The Shops at Wailea
808.879.1922 / American/Pacific Rim
808.727.2038 / Gastropub
KŌ
PITA PARADISE
Fairmont Kea Lani
Wailea Gateway Center
808.875.2210 / Plantation Era
808.879.7177 / Mediterranean
LAPPERT’S HAWAII
THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA
The Shops at Wailea
808.879.1711 / Ice Cream LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
808.573.1234 / Cocktails LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea
808.879.8800
DUO Four Seasons Resort
808.874.8000 / Steak/Seafood FABIANI'S WAILEA Wailea Gateway Center
808.874.1234 / Pizza/Pasta FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort
808.874.8000 / Italian GANNON'S Wailea Gold Course
808.875.8080 / Hawai‘i Regional GRAND DINING ROOM MAUI Grand Wailea
808.875.1234 / American HONOLULU COFFEE CO. The Shops at Wailea
808.875.6630 / Coffee Shop
LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort
808.874.8000 / Cocktails LONGHI'S The Shops at Wailea
808.891.8883 / Mediterranean LUANA Fairmont Kea Lani
808.875.4100 / Cocktails MANOLI'S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Drive
808.874.7499 / Italian THE MARKET MAUI Wailea Gateway Center
808.879.2433 / Gourmet Pantry MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center
808.891.8466 / Italian
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Hotel Wailea
808.879.2224 / Island Inspired RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea
808.874.8880 / Steaks/Seafood SPAGO Four Seasons Resort
808.879.2999 / Pacific Rim STARBUCKS Wailea Beach Resort
808.874.7981 / Coffee Shop SUBWAY Wailea Gateway Center
808.875.7827 / Sandwich/Deli TE AU MOANA Wailea Beach Resort
877.827.2740 / Lu‘au Show TOMMY BAHAMA The Shops at Wailea
808.875.9983 / American/Caribbean VOLCANO GRILL & BAR Grand Wailea
808.875.1234 / American WHALERS GENERAL STORE The Shops at Wailea
808.891.2039 / Deli
Restaurant Week Wailea Every November and May, Wailea restaurants present their finest offerings in prix-fixe menus for just $29, $39, $49 and $59 per person. RESTAURANT WEEK WAILEA:
November 4-10, 2018 www.restaurantweekwailea.com
©MONKEY BUSINESS IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK
Dining at Wailea
HONUA‘ULA LU‘AU Grand Wailea
Longhi’s Ko’olina 7:30 am -10:00 pm 92-161 Waipahe Place Kapolei, HI 96707 808.671.8887
[ T H E G U I D E ] SHOP
OUR CENTERS FOR SHOPPING Haute couture. Art. Locally made gifts. Coffee and sunshine. These retail centers don't miss a beat.
Shopping at Wailea
THE SHOPS AT WAILEA 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive 808.891.6770 theshopsatwailea.com Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Over 70 shops, galleries, restaurants, two coffeehouses and an ice cream shop are the tip of the iceberg at The Shops at Wailea. WAILEA GATEWAY CENTER At the intersection of Pi‘ilani Highway and Wailea Ike Drive.
The two-story Gateway is mauka from the coast, with unique peeks of the ocean and the West Maui Mountains. Chocolate, a day spa, coffee and pastries reign here, along with restaurants. WAILEA TOWN CENTER North on Ike Place off Ike Drive just above Wailea Alanui Drive.
The Wailea Town Center offers a range of services and hidden treasures, including a full-service bank, restaurant and a wine shop. WAILEA VILLAGE CENTER 100 Wailea Ike Drive
The atrium of The Shops at Wailea at sunset. 70
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©ISAAC ARJONILLA
This center includes Urgent Care, Manoli’s Pizza Company, Water Lily Maui, the Wailea Blue Golf Course and other services.
Luxury Contempory Design
Select Luxury Residences with Custom Design on Maui
Impeccable Design combined with Custom Materials create Ultimate Luxury in Paradise! MLS#376837 Representing the finest in Luxury Homes, Beach and Golf Course Condominiums, Oceanfront Estates, Exclusive Gated Communities, and New Developments.
Bradley S. MacArthur Principal Broker, Owner Direct: 808.357.5000
The Shops at Wailea ~ 3750 Wailes Alanui Dr., Ste B16 | Wailea, Maui, HI 96753 | Email: Brad@WaileaRealty.com
[ T H E G U I D E ] SHOP
SHO P S O N P R O P ERTY
PACIFIC DREAM PHOTOGRAPHY
LE SURF WAILEA
A photo studio on property captures the special moments of your visit.
The boutique’s thoughtful selection of women’s, men’s and children’s products is designed to meet wideranging resort needs. Favorite and familiar designers share their exclusive offerings, and newly discovered brands make a splashy entrance.
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort 3550 Wailea Alanui Drive 808.573.1234
Fairmont Kea Lani 4100 Wailea Alanui Drive 808.875.4100
‘ÄWILI SPA AND SALON
Along with custom-blended scrubs, lotions, oils and body butters, the spa boutique includes fashions by local designers. MOKAPU MARKET
Prepared takeaway foods include pastries, paninis, pizza, gelato and locally crafted beverages, all in a 24hour convenience store with style.
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CAFFE CIAO BAKERY & MARKET
This is a one-stop shop for tasty treats and foodie gifts, from gourmet made-on-Maui food products to a wide variety of unique souvenirs, including specialty kitchen items and signature Kea Lani jams, teas and condiments. From prepared foods to-go to deluxe pastries, chocolates and wines, it’s an epicurean oasis.
PACIFIC DREAM PHOTOGRAPHY
This is the on-the-spot memory maker on property, with a studio and professionals on hand. WILLOW STREAM SPA BOUTIQUE
This luxurious, state-of-the-art spa highlights the latest and finest in skin care, bath, body and beauty products, with treatments to match. Locally made jewelry, activewear, loungewear and
much more are the epitome of comfort with fashion: Spiritual Gangster, Shu Uemura Art of Hair, Kerstin Florian International, NuFace and LightStim are just the tip of the iceberg.
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 3900 Wailea Alanui Drive 808.874.8000 22 KNOTS
Fine jewelry, high-end fashion and beach-to-evening style make a strong sartorial statement here, with iconic labels—Missoni, Lanvin, Pucci included.
(FROM LEFT) ©DIANA INDIANA/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©BON APPETIT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; ©TETRA IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©ISAAC ARJONILLA
Shops, Galleries and More
CABANA
THE SPA
BEACH & POOL STORE
ENTERPRISE
Chic, comfortable and exclusive printed tees, rash guards by James Perse and designer beachwear with flair are among the boutique’s finds. Shoes, accessories and apparel are included in this well-thought-out selection for men, women and kids.
A selection of activewear, body products, guest treatments and an extensive line of scrubs, sunscreens and skin care items make this a wellness nexus.
Water toys, hats, sun shirts, Maui Jim sunglasses, GoPro accessories and tanning lotions are just some of the water-friendly products you’ll find here. Located next to the activity pool registration desk.
This full-service rental car desk is located in the main lobby, next to the concierge desks.
HILDGUND JEWELRY
Luxury gems, diamonds and unique designs are the signature of Hildgund’s, long considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier jewelers.
TOWN AND COUNTRY MAUI
Here’s where you’ll find fragrant, fresh and exotic blooms and arrangements, suitable for any occasion.
The Grand Wailea Shops and Galleries 3850 Wailea Alanui Drive 808.875.1234
PORTS
Travel essentials—sundries, logowear, snacks and gift ideas—are covered in this thoughtful, colorful selection.
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AKAMAI BUSINESS CENTER
A full-service center for copying, faxing, office equipment rentals, shipping and all your business needs.
CHRISTOPHER EGAN GALLERY
With his photographic artistry, Christopher Egan creates extraordinary treasures to take home with you. CRUISE BOUTIQUE
Many consider this the finest selection of swimwear in Hawai‘i. The sizes range from 0 to 18, and labels include Seafolly, Maaji and Profile by Gottex.
GRAND IMAGE BOUTIQUE
Top brands at this spa boutique include Eminence, ESPA, Moroccanoil, Tom Ford and Beyond Yoga, as well as Grand Wailea’s signature Honey Mango collection and Healing Waters of Maui Bath Salts. The boutique is located on the ground floor of the Chapel Wing at Spa Grande. GRAND JEWELS OF WAILEA
High-fashion finds include estate, vintage, rare and all manner of precious gems, including diamond, platinum and 18-karat jewelry and one-of-a-kind
(LEFT AND RIGHT) ©THE SHOPS AT WAILEA; (CENTER) ©RADIUS IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
[ T H E G U I D E ] SHOP
SAVOUR The experience of a lifetime, every time.
Best Seafood Restaurant, Maui Humu Lounge 5:00 to 11:00 pm Hawai‘i Seasonal Cuisine Chef de Cuisine Mike Lofaro
•
Best Resort Restaurant, Maui
•
Hawaii Magazine, 2018
| Dinner 5:30 to 10:00 pm | Live Entertainment Wednesday – Saturday 8 pm – 11 pm
3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 808.875.1234 Ext. 2500 • WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM
[ T H E G U I D E ] SHOP
of the Islands. Many of the intricately crafted pieces are enhanced by Tahitian, Akoya or freshwater pearls.
KI‘I GALLERY
Handmade jewelry, hand-blown art glass and luxurious pieces of luminous South Seas pearls are among the standouts in this long-standing, respected Maui gallery. MAKANA, GIFTS WITH ALOHA
Specializing in Maui and Hawai‘i-made gifts, Makana offers a wide selection of sundries, island-style treasures and souvenirs. NA HOKU
Na Hoku’s exotic, elegant jewelry is inspired by the beauty and traditions
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NAPUA GALLERY
Dale Chihuly is a Napua signature: unique art glass renowned the world over. Original paintings, sculptures, jewelry and fine-art items, including works by Maui's premier artists, have long been a Napua mainstay.
PINEAPPLE PATCH
Imaginative toys, books, puzzles and beachwear are among the delights for children: hats, sun shirts, even a lifesize mermaid tail to swim in. PINK LILIA, A LILLY PULITZER ® SIGNATURE STORE
Lilly Pulitzer items include dresses, bags, women’s resortwear and accessories, all in the bright, cheerful Lilly Pulitzer palette.
PACIFIC DREAM PHOTOGRAPHY
Capture your Grand Wailea moments with a 45-minute beach portrait session. Advance reservations are required: gwr@pacificdreamphotography.com, or visit the lobby concierge for an appointment. Complimentary to Grand Wailea guests only.
QUIKSILVER
Find the latest Roxy and Quiksilver swimwear here, along with board shorts, hats, sunglasses, backpacks and all you need to catch a wave or explore
Maui. The selection of GoPro cameras and accessories promises an active life in the waves. SPA BOUTIQUE
This is a trove of beauty secrets: bath salts, facial products, apparel, shampoo, lotions, sandals and many other items for those who aspire to being fit and radiant. WAILEA GIFT SHOP
Gift items from Hawai‘i can be found among the logowear, souvenirs, sundries and resort accessories, such as beach bags, polo shirts and bathrobes.
(FROM LEFT) ©SEBASTIAN SAYEGH; ©THE SHOPS AT WAILEA (2)
pieces by Norman Silverman Diamonds, Inc.
WAILEA MEN’S AND WOMEN’S SHOP
With Tommy Bahama, Toes on The Nose, Johnnie-O and other spirited menswear lines, the spotlight is on men. From swimwear to graphic tees, hats, sunglasses and aloha shirts for the lū‘au, the man with style will feel right at home.
Wailea Beach Resort 3700 Wailea Alanui Drive 808.879.1922
and distinctive gifts, this is a shop for day-to-evening needs. And with ice cream, snacks and island-made goodies, it’s a good place to holoholo. MANDARA SPA
Maui’s Island Essence mango-coconut body wash and Elemis lime-ginger scrub are among the finds at this fragrant spa shop. Treatment lines and beauty products uphold the EastWest theme.
PRO SHOP CLUBHOUSE
The Wailea Blue Course is home to the original Wailea Resort Sea & Sun logo. The official Wailea logo adorns the latest in resort and golf attire from Nike, Adidas, Tail, TravisMathew, Puma and others. The Blue Course also offers a notable selection of Maui Jim and Nike sunglasses.
With snacks and sundries, beach and sports apparel, accessories, souvenirs
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100 Wailea Ike Drive 808.879.2530
Wailea Tennis Club 131 Wailea Ike Place 808.879.1958
Wailea Golf Club 100 Wailea Golf Club Drive 808.875.7450
Wailea Blue Clubhouse HOLOHOLO MARKET
accessories featuring the distinctive Seahorse logo. Included are Adidas, Bugatchi, Eric Javits, Helen Kaminski, JoFit, Nike, Peter Millar, Polo, Puma and TravisMathew, plus top-of-the-line eyewear.
PRO SHOP, GOLD AND EMERALD CLUBHOUSE
Wailea’s award-winning pro shop, one of the largest in Hawai‘i, carries both golf and après-golf attire and
PRO SHOP
In addition to logo apparel and accessories, the shop offers re-gripping and racket-stringing services.
(CENTER) ©SEBASTIAN SAYEGH; (OTHERS) ©THE SHOPS AT WAILEA (2)
[ T H E G U I D E ] SHOP
Experience the Adventure of a Lifetime SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS
WATCH TOUR HIGHLIGHTS VIDEO!
MAUI
KAUAI
BIG ISLAND
RESERVATIONS
(808) 877-3167 sunshinehelicopters.com
You� Artisa� Marke� i� Waile�.
BREAKFAST LUNCH CAFE CHEESE WINE GELATO In the Wailea Gateway Center, directly underneath MonkeyPod Restaurant
808-879-2433
SHOP 8am - 9pm
KITCHEN 8am - 7pm
ESCAPE The experience of a lifetime, every time.
3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753
• 808.875.1234 Ext. 4949 •
WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM
LOCATED AT GRAND WAILEA, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT
FUN IN THE SUN
The Promise of Dawn
WITH 120 MILES OF SHORELINE, 30 miles of beaches, and year-round sunny weather, you could say that Maui is brilliantly endowed. And South Maui is particularly attractive, due to its necklace of five crescent beaches, beaches that define Wailea Resort. But Wailea is more than beaches: it’s a recreational oasis, a place of restoration, and a sophisticated destination of well-curated amenities. Good health follows sun and salty air, and there’s plenty of that in South Maui. 84
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Conceived and developed around a luxurious lifestyle, Wailea offers amenities designed to augment its natural features. There are seven hotels, 2,200 residences, three shopping centers, three world-class golf courses and a tennis club. On land and sea, recreation rules. Spas and a coastal trail hug the coast, and sunsets are a daily spectacle. Maui Nui, the island family of Maui, Moloka‘i, Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe, are an oceanic ‘ohana that speaks to the volcanic origins of the Hawaiian Islands and
©PER BREIEHAGEN/GETTY IMAGES
An elemental choir
the power of ocean to both separate and unite. With the comforting view of sister islands offshore, beachgoers are never alone. From December through April, Hawai‘i’s beloved winter visitors, the humpback whales, frolic on the horizon, providing entertainment and delight. After they depart in the spring, the perennial events prevail. Beachcombing. Yoga on the beach. Snorkeling and swimming. Outrigger canoe paddling, as a spectator or participatory sport. Islanders remember the legend of the naupaka, which grows abundantly at the shoreline. Juicy naupaka leaves can be crushed and rubbed on the inside of a snorkel 86
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mask to serve as a natural anti-fogger. Delicate naupaka flowers have five petals, mysteriously arranged as if half the flower is missing. Its counterpart, naupaka kuahiwi, grows in the mountains with identical blooms. When held together, the flowers appear as one. The flowers are said to represent the forbidden love of Naupaka, a Hawaiian princess, and the commoner who claimed her heart. The star-crossed lovers, forced to part by Hawaiian protocol, went their separate ways. One lover went to the mountains, the other to the ocean. The naupaka bushes flourishing on the South Maui coastline call to mind this poignant Hawaiian myth.
©M.M. SWEET/GETTY IMAGES
FUN IN THE SUN
INSPIRED IT ALL
VISIT OUR SHOPS ON MAUI ELEPHANT WALK
The Shops at Wailea 808-891-8684 Front Street, Lahaina 808-667-0361
SOUL LEI
Whalers Village 808-661-6663 808.667.0361
the SHOPS at WAILEA 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive EW23
Phone: 808•280•7979 Karl D. Gottling, Designer
PLAY MORE
TM
EVERY SEASON IS GOLF SEASON AT WAILEA With three championship courses, fabulous views and great seasonal offers, you can play more and save more on Wailea’s legendary fairways. Ask about twilight rates, family-friendly deals, and our popular unlimited golf special, the Seahorse Swing. You’re just a tee time away. follow us!
www.waileagolf.com | TOLL-FREE 1.888.328.MAUI | 808.875.7450 WAILEA GOLD | WAILEA EMERALD | WAILEA BLUE
TRAVELERS KNOW WHERE ™
THE ‘IAO NEEDLE,
on the island of Maui, rises 1,200 feet from the valley floor, making it taller than the Eiffel Tower. Learn more at wheretraveler.com/maui. The best in travel. Let us show you Where.
ALOHA MOMENT
The sun at the source of life. Mauli-ola (Breath of life) is the god of health. —Mary Pukui, ‘Olelo No’eau
©ISAAC ARJONILLA
Ka la i ka Mauliola