Where Magazine Baltimore Nov 2018 by Morris Media Network

GUIDE TO BALTIMORE

INDULGE

TOP SPOTS TO TREAT YOURSELF

EXPLORE

JOHN WATERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHARM CITY

TOUR

3 WAYS TO SEE THE TOWN

FALL/WINTER 2018

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Where do you want to go? Find the best of the city

Baltimore Fall/Winter (FROM TOP) JOHN WATERS. STUDY ART SIGN (FOR PRESTIGE OR SPITE). 2007. COURTESY SPRÜTH MAGERS GALLERY. ©JOHN WATERS; COURTESY CHARM CITY CHOCOLATE

CONTENTS

SEE MORE OF THE CITY AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide

03 Editor’s Itinerary

04 Hot Dates

Top Theater Broadway comes to town. Plus: Free cultural events, Ravens home games and holiday cheer

Baltimore Museum of Art

An expertly mixed cocktail at The Bygone. COURTESY ATLAS RESTAURANT GROUP INDULGE

TOP SPOTS TO TREAT YOURSELF

EXPLORE

JOHN WATERS’S CHARM CITY

TOUR

3 WAYS TO SEE THE TOWN

FALL/WINTER 2018

wheretraveler.com

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Charm City Chocolate

where now

10/1/18 11:15 AM

06 Baltimore’s Son

Find filmmaker and local John Waters’s Charm City, from an art exhibition showcasing the auteur’s edgy work to his favorite haunts all around town. BY JENNIFER BARGER CONNECT WITH US

READ US ON MAGZTER

15 18

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

20 25

DINING

Intriguing sites including historic homes, cultural centers and art museums

Charm City’s foodie scene, from fine dining to fast casual in more than a dozen neighborhoods

Top recommendations for first-timers, romantics and luxury seekers.

GUIDE TO BALTIMORE

SHOPPING

Top spots to shop from department stores to indie boutiques all over town

32 Baltimore Your Way

ON THE COVER

10 12

The essential things to see and do, including a 90-minute visit to an offthe-beaten-path waterfront neighborhood with plenty of treasures.

08 Treat Yourself

Feeling indulgent? We show you how to make the most of the city with luxurious spa treatments, decadent sweets and a sky-high perch channeling the roaring ’20s. BY JAMIE JACKSON

25 32

ENTERTAINMENT

28 36

NAVIGATE

30 38

MAPS

Lively bars, hip lounges, world-class theater and many more ways to take in the arts

Guidance for getting around the city: tours and transportation

Eastside, westside, downtown and harbors of the Patapsco River

Patterson Park 2 W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

EDITOR’S ITINERARY

ANNE KIM-DANNIBALE

(FROM LEFT) ©ELVERT BARNES/FLICKR, CREATIVE COMMONS; ©CHRIS PARYPA PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY CREATIVE ALLIANCE; (FACING PAGE) ©JON BILOUS; SHUTTERSTOCK

BALTIMORE

N E W S T O T R AV E L B Y

MVP | EDITORIAL & DESIGN GROUP EDITOR Anne Kim-Dannibale ART DIRECTOR Dusty Martin CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jennifer Barger,

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The Essential Baltimore Many famous folks including writer Edgar Allan Poe and “Modern Family” star Julie Bowen have called Baltimore home. But none embody the city like John Waters. This season, the Baltimore Museum of Art showcases the filmmaker’s work, offering a launching pad for visiting Waters haunts. Turn to page 6 for where to go. This time of year also kicks off the season of giving, but it’s also a great time to treat yourself. From spa treatments to haute cuisine, see page 8 for ways to indulge. Short on time? Here are some recommendations in a neighborhood locals love:

90 MINUTES IN:

Canton

MVP | CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Margaret Martin DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

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MVP | BALTIMORE

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MORE THAN 200 years ago, Captain John O’Donnell named his plantation for the Chinese port that brought him wealth. Now this once mostly immigrant waterfront zone is experiencing another transformation, this time into an upscale community with plenty to

see and do. You could spend an entire day at sprawling Patterson Park, which has a lake with boats, wildlife, an ice skating rink in winter and a famous Victorianera pagoda (above, left) with city views at the top. After working up an appetite at the park, head to one of many

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA

seafood restaurants in the neighborhood and get crackin’ on Maryland blue crabs (above, center). Nonprofit performance venue Creative Alliance (above, right) hosts an eclectic lineup of productions, from world music shows to edgy photography exhibitions and film screenings, offering a uniquely Baltimorean way to cap any fun-filled day.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/ Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg 3

WHERE CALENDAR FALL/WINTER 2018 Search the full calendar at wheretraveler.com

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

ALL MONTH: Top Theater

For a full calendar of event s, go to w heretr aveler.com/baltimore/ local- event s 4

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

©KEN STANEK PHOTOGRAPHY

The gorgeous restored Hippodrome Theatre at the France-Merrick Performing Arts Center hosts top shows and touring productions of some of Broadway’s biggest hits. This season, “Fiddler on the Roof” (Nov. 13-18), “Anastasia” (Dec. 4-9) and Moscow Ballet’s Great Russian “Nutcracker” (Dec. 14-15) make their way across the storied stage. Tickets/times vary. 12 N. Eutaw St., 800.982.2787, france-merrickpac.com

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Great Things Not to Miss

Waterfront, 3001 Boston St., baltimorecraftbeerfestival.com

1 FRINGE FEST > NOV. 1-11 This annual festival brings indie arts and theater to venues in the Bromo Arts District. See details online. charmcityfringe.com

BREAKFAST WITH THE BEARS> NOV. 17 Tuck into the morning repast with the zoo’s newest polar bear residents, Neva and Amelia Gray. $65. 8:30-10 am. Druid Hill Park, marylandzoo.org

2 BALTIMORE CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL> NOV. 3 More than 40 brewers offer sips, while bands battle it out and food trucks dish up treats. $40. 1:30-5 pm. Canton

4 ADULT TEA PARTY > NOV. 24 Sample brews, learn techniques and try enhancers, $25. 2-4 pm.

NOV. 22-DEC. 24 CHRISTMAS VILLAGE Browse a Germanyinspired market, sample gingerbread and mulled wine and visit the Nuremberg Christkind. $5 (good for return visits). Website for schedule. West Shore Park, 501 Light St., baltimore-christmas.com Homegrown Popup, 830 Aliceanna St., 410.989.3851, cuplesteahouse.com 5 MUSEUM STORE SUNDAY> NOV. 25 Holiday shoppers get a jump on the season with unique finds. 10 am-5 pm. The Walters Art Museum, 600 N. Charles St., thewalters.org

SPOTLIGHT

Here Come the Boys Camden Yards may be this town’s most famous sports facility, but crowds pack nearby M&T Bank stadium, too. This football season, hometown NFL heroes, the Ravens, kick it into high gear, facing off against rivals on the gridiron. Meanwhile, fans rock the purple and black in the seats and on the plaza where a bronze of Hall of Famer Johnny Unitas greets them. Tickets vary. Kickoff 1 pm, 1101 Russell St., baltimoreravens.com

TOP STOPS Across the city, winter diversions bring on the Christmas cheer.

SPOTLIGHT

(FROM TOP) COURTESY THE MARYLAND ZOO IN BALTIMORE; COURTESY BALTIMORE RAVENS

Maryland Zoo

6 CHANUKAH HOT CHOCOLATE 5K > DEC. 2 Racers vie for a sweet reward, while fans cheer them on with family-friendly activities and an after party. 9 am-11 pm. Website for details. Rosenbloom Owings Mills JCC, 3506 Gwynnbrook Ave., Owings Mills, Md., charmcityrun.com 7 KWANZAA CELEBRATION > DEC. 29 Puppets, drumming and a fashion show usher in this annual holiday celebrating African heritage. $5. Noon4 pm. Reginald F. Lewis Museum, 830 E. Pratt St., 443.263.1800, lewismuseum.org

NOV. 24-JAN. 1 MIRACLE ON 34TH ST. Hampden residents dress up their houses with quirky decorations like hubcap trees. Free. 34th St. between Chestnut Ave. and Keswick Road, christmasstreet.com DEC. 6 MONUMENT LIGHTING caption Thousands gatherhere for the annual illumination of the Washington Monument. Free entry. Website for schedule. Mount Vernon Place, promotionandarts.org DEC. 19 A JOHN WATERS CHRISTMAS The holidays as the “Pope of Trash” sees it. $49.50, 8 pm. Baltimore Soundstage, 124 Market Place, baltimoresoundstage.com DEC. 31 NYE SPECTACULAR Live music, activities and dazzling fireworks ring in 2019. Free. 9 pm-12:30 am. Website for schedule of events. Inner Harbor, promotionandarts.org 5

where now

Baltimore

The savvy traveler’s guide to exploring Charm City

IN SI D E R ’ S G U I D E

BALTIMORE’S SON Filmmaker and local John Waters’s Charm City, from an art exhibition of his work to his favorite in-town haunts. BY JENNIFER BARGER

(FROM TOP) ©JOHN WATERS, COURTESY MARIANNE BOESKY GALLERY; ©JOHN L. BECK/FLICKR, CREATIVE COMMONS; (FACING PAGE) ©JOE SEER/SHUTTERSTOCK

hen filmmaker and artist John Waters is home in Baltimore, he drops by Hampden’s Atomic Books to pick up his fan mail, which occasionally includes a gift or two. “Once we received what we’re pretty sure was a gift-wrapped, uncooked ham,” says Benn Ray, owner of the ’zine- and comic-filled bookstore. That seems like a fitting tribute to the native-born “Pope of Trash” who has been making oddball, often dirty films like “Pink Flamingos” and “Hairspray” in and around the streets of Charm City since the 1970s. “He’s a cultural icon, and he’s completely Baltimorecentric,” says Ray, a longtime friend. “The city is unique, humorous, and no B.S., just like John.” No wonder, then, that the Baltimore Museum of Art pays tribute to Waters this season, with its first major exhibit of his photos, video montages and sculptures, many harnessing themes, players and scenes from his movies. Visitors can take in thought-provoking, sometimes raunchy works like “Divine in Ecstasy,” a nostalgic photo of his drag queen muse (and “Pink Flamingos” star) plus “Children Who Smoke,” a photo montage of mid-century child actors who seem to be puffing on cigarettes. “John is both subversive and widely appealing,” says exhibit curator Kristen Hileman. “This show adds another dimension to his talents, and shows his alternate world vision.” Many pieces riff on pop culture, including “Play Date,” sculptures of child-sized silicone figures of Michael Jackson and Charles Manson in fuzzy PJs. “John works with the fabricator of the Chucky dolls,” says Hileman. “It makes you think about who we put forward as celebrities. What’s the power that they have over us?” The BMA show also stars peep-show versions of many Waters’ earliest movies, and a 24-hour film fest of his flicks rolls Nov. 9-10. And Baltimore itself—particularly Waters’ beloved, funky Hampden neighborhood— also provides tactile evidence of the bawdy auteur’s work and life. In the ’hood, Atomic Books sells signed DVDs of his films “Serial Mom” and “Hairspray” underneath a wall decked with framed, handmade Christmas cards from Waters. A few blocks away, the Philly’s Best corner takeout served as the title character’s workplace in 1998’s “Pecker.” The main character, an aspiring photographer played by Edward Furlong, served customers roach-filled fries in the movie, but in real life the place offers up pretty tasty, vermin-free pizza burgers and Indian curries. Scenes from Waters’ “Pecker” and “Hairspray” were shot along Hampden’s main drag, 36th Street (aka The Avenue). “’Pecker’ made Hampden look better than it does in real life,” says Waters. We beg to differ, since a Waters-inspired trawl of the shop- and restaurant-filled zone could include stops at Changed My Mind Vintage for “Hairspray”-era retro clothing or Café Hon, a diner decked with a two-story metal pink flamingo. A few blocks south, Waters hangout Rocket to Venus pours

“John Waters At Home” (1998)

Cafe Hon in Hampden

local beers and strong cocktails (try the Figgy Pop with fruit vodka, lime, orange and soda) in retro surrounds with local art on the walls. Its brunch menu veers between hangovercuring fare like the Hampden Pothole (a stack of eggs, toast, tater tots and breakfast meat) and seafood (peel-and-eat shrimp, a Vietnamese banh mi sandwich with catfish). Across town, the late Divine, ever the plumped-up Grace Kelly to Waters’ lowbrow Hitchcock, lives on as a 10-foot-tall, swiveling statue in full drag regalia at the American Visionary Art Museum. Fans of the actor’s work in “Pink Flamingos,” “Polyester” et. al. can also pay tribute at his grave at nearby Prospect Hill Park Cemetery—just be sure to look under Divine’s given name, Harris Glenn Milstead. But there might be no better place to toast Waters himself than at Club Charles (aka Club Chuck), a divey-meets-elegant bar in the Station North ‘hood. Ring a buzzer to get in, and you’ll find yourself amid Art Deco-style murals of Greek gods and neon lights. Scoot up to the long red-and-white bar with a local beer or a surprisingly good highball (the Viola mixes mulberry gin and Meyer lemons), and you find yourself drinking next to Waters himself. “I have an affinity for weird bars, and so does John,” says Atomic Books’ Ray. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m

Treat Yourself Feeling indulgent? Here’s how to make the most of the city with luxurious spa treatments, decadent sweets and a sky-high perch channeling the roaring 1920s. BY JAMIE JACKSON

Sweet Cravings

Charm City Chocolate

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2018

CHARM CITY CHOCOLATE Nestled among the trendy, adorable shops in Hampden, this sweets shop offers the flavors that owners (and former Baltimore Sun journalists) Todd and Michelle Zimmerman grew up with. Containers filled to the brim with retro candy sit alongside handcrafted chocolates (pictured at left), some with local themes like Old Bayflavored caramels and chocolates shaped like the city’s iconic Maryland blue crabs.

COURTESY CHARM CITY CHOCOLATE

PATISSERIE POUPON Tucked away in a row of charming brick buildings not far from the Inner Harbor, this well-regarded bakery and cafe channels Paris. Inside, the sweet fragrance of artistic—and tasty—confections greets patrons. Start with a quick, light lunch of standards like quiche or croissant sandwiches before diving into melt-in-your mouth, made-from-scratch tarts and pastries.

WHERE NOW Baltimore

Spa at the Four Seasons

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) COURTESY FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BALTIMORE; COURTESY ATLAS RESTAURANT GROUP; COURTESY BLANCA FLOR

Zen Time SPA AT THE FOUR SEASONS With popular national stores like Madewell, Anthropologie and Lush, Harbor East is a treasure trove of retail. When you’re tired from all that shopping, this top spa offers a refreshing boost. Take a dip in the infinity pool or lounge while gazing at views of the harbor. The sleek spa also offers intriguing treatments alongside luxuri-

Retail Therapy BLANCA FLOR The owners of this Harbor East shop, Sofia Garcia and Donna de Garcia, sell beautiful jewelry made by local craftsmen in Taxco, Mexico. The duo also travels to the coasts of Greece, the American Southwest, New York City and other hubs known for master silversmithing. Buying a bespoke piece someone sourced during

ous experiences like hot stone massages, relaxing facials and aromatherapy, plus cosmetic services like brow tinting, waxing and makeup application. THE SPA AT THE IVY In leafy Mount Vernon, this thoughtful retreat offers respite from everyday stress with bespoke packages including relaxing massages and splurges like the “Diamond Lifting” facial and Reiki sessions to balance chakras.

their travels? We think that’s priceless. SOBOTANICAL Run by a certified aromatherapist and channeling apothecaries of yesteryear, this Federal Hill boutique specializes in feel-good products without the junk, like custom sugar soap scrubs, bespoke perfumes, cooling face gel masks and personalized blends of aromatherapy oils.

Blanca Flor

Decadent Dining Inside the Four Seasons Hotel in Harbor East, a smartly dressed attendant whisks guests to The Bygone via a “secret” elevator decked in velvet and a chandelier. Upstairs, 180-degree views of the harbor and 1920s jazz music accentuate a glamorous space, setting the scene for a splurge-worthy evening. In good weather, the patio makes full use of that view, while the formal dining room makes an elegant backdrop for decadent haute cuisine like truffled Amish chicken. A two-story bar (the upper level for whiskey) keeps imbibers happy, while a DJ keeps the party going Thursdays through Saturdays. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m

the guide Shopping Fall/Winter

Ceremony Coffee

It may take a bit of hunting to find this Federal Hill gem with an evergrowing fan base. But those who make the effort are rewarded with a top-notch collection of previ-

ously loved books and records. Items here run the gamut, but the real treasures are the hard-tofind titles, quirky collectibles and rare vinyls. 836 Leadenhall St., 410.988.4708.

This Annapolis roaster pours rich brews and offers classes for deep dives into all things bean. www. ceremonycoffee.com. 520 Park Ave., 443.835.1659. Map C4; 1312 Point St., 410.601.3561. Map E8

Antiques

PARADISO— Well-appointed shop

Apparel

on “The Ave,” carries antique and modern pieces. A designer jewelry case complements furniture. Local delivery and shipping. F-Sa 11 am6 pm, Su 11 am-4 pm or by appointment. www.paradisohampden. com. 1015 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.243.1317 North of Map A1

CHARLOTTE ELLIOTT— Furniture,

estate and handmade jewelry, sterling silver flatware, vintage clothing. Rare books at The Book Store Next Door. Su-Th 11 am-5 pm, F-Sa till 6 pm. www.charlotteelliottinc. com. 835-837 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.243.0990 North of Map A1 CROSSKEYS ANTIQUES— Selection of

THE PARISIAN FLEA— Excellent fine and

furniture, paintings, mirrors from 17th through 20th centuries. More than 10,000 pieces in collection like waxes carrying Buckingham Palace’s seal of approval. Sa 10 am-3 pm, Su 11 am3 pm. www.crosskeysantiques.com. 801 N. Howard St., Mount Vernon 410.728.0101 Map C3

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

costume jewelry, pottery, chandeliers and lanterns. Plus tea sets, stained glass and furniture. S-M noon-5 pm, W-Sa 11 am-6 pm. www.facebook.com/ The-Parisian-Flea-138387306237391/. 843 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.235.1287. North of Map A1

BRIGHTSIDE— Two native New Yorkers

curating funky clothing, jewelry and more inspired by “tattoo couture.” Hours vary by location. Call for details. www.shopbrightside.com. 1133 S. Charles St., Federal Hill, 410.244.1133 Map C8; 732 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 410.522.1337. Map F7; 915 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.814.0595 North of Map B1 CLOUD 9 CLOTHING— Contemporary

styles from brands like Free People, Yumi, Bluebird, Steve Madden, Big Buddha plus some men’s lines. Jewelry counter. Hours vary by location. www. cloud9clothing.us. 2400 Boston St., Canton, 410.534.4200 Map G8; 111 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.889.1330. Map C3;

(FROM LEFT) ©LEICHEROLIVER/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©I LOVE COFFEE/SHUTTERSTOCK

Protean Books and Records

SHOPPING 800 Kenilworth Drive, Towson, Md., 410.825.5550 DOUBLEDUTCH— Women’s styles by well-

known designers and locals plus vintage. Bags, sunglasses, jewelry, handmade apparel. M-Th 11 am-6 pm, F-Sa till 7 pm, Su noon-6 pm. www.doubledutchbou tique.com. 1021 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.554.0055 North of Map A1 FOR RENT SHOES— Footwear from inde-

pendent and major international designers. Plus apparel, accessories and an in-store gallery highlighting local artists. Tu-Th, Su noon-6 pm, F-Sa noon-8 pm. www.forrentshoes.com. 515 Cathedral St., Mount Vernon, 443.873.9928 Map C2 FREESIA— Casual to chic clothing from

hard-to-find brands. Wholesale, affordable designer goods plus athletic apparel and shoes. M noon-6 pm, Tu-Sa 11 am-7 pm, Su noon-5 pm. www.freesia fp.squarespace.com. 1643 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.732.0039 Map F8 HUNTING GROUND— Lesser-known

brands and vintage in an old church with bohemian decor. M-Th 11 am-7 pm, F-Sa till 8 pm, Su noon to 6 pm. www.shop huntingground.com. 3649 Falls Road, Hampden, 410.243.0789 North of Map A1 JODY DAVIS DESIGNS— Baltimore native’s

namesake boutique with a celebrity following, featuring her timeless and unique creations, from business attire to evening wear, plus custom designs. F-Sa 11 am-7 pm. www.jodydavisdesign. com. 110 W. Saratoga St., Mount Vernon, 410.219.8951 Map C4 MA PETITE SHOE— Casual and dressy

pieces. Jeffrey Campbell, Dolce Vita and Seychelles. M-Sa 11 am-7 pm, Su noon-5 pm. www.mapetiteshoe. com. 832 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.235.3442 North of Map A1 POPPY AND STELLA— Shoe boutique

stocks labels like Pour La Victoire, Oh Deer! and Jeffrey Campbell. Handbags, accessories. M-F 11 am-8 pm, Sa 10 am-8 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. www.pop pyandstella.blogspot.com. 728 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 410.522.1970 Map F7 PUNCH!— Hip boutique for well-edited

selection of on-trend women’s wear, accessories, jewelry, home decor and whimsical gifts. M-Sa 10 am-7 pm, Su 11 am- 5 pm. www.prettyinpunch. com. 1132 S. Charles St., Federal Hill, 443.885.9435 South of Map C8

SASSANOVA— Bright pink walls and chee-

tah carpet form a colorful backdrop for designer shoes and accessories. Kate Spade, The Printery. M-Tu 10 am-7 pm, W-Sa 10 am-8 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. www.sassanova.com. 805 Aliceanna St., Harbor East, 410.244.1114 Map E7 SIXTEEN TONS— Vintage-inspired men’s

shirts and denim, accessories, hats. Su-M noon-5 pm, T-Th 11 am-6 pm., F-Sa till 7 pm. www.facebook.com/ shop16tons/. 1021 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.554.0101 North of Map A1 SOUTH MOON UNDER— Casual cloth-

ing and swimsuits by Bardot, Ralph Lauren, others. M-Sa 10 am-8 pm, Su noon-5 pm. www.southmoonunder. com. 815 Aliceanna St., Harbor East, 410.685.7820 Map E7 STEPHEN WISE BALTIMORE—The local

designer’s suits and accessories, plus tailoring services and sewing classes. Across the street from Lexington Market. M-Sa 8:30 am-6 pm. www.lexington market.com. 216 N. Paca St., Downtown, 667.309.6021 Map C5 UNDER ARMOUR BRAND HOUSE— Flag-

ship of Baltimore-based performance brand. Workout apparel (tanks, sweats, pullovers) plus footwear and accessories. M-Sa 10 am-9 pm, Su 11 am-7 pm. www.underarmour.com. 700 S. President St., Harbor East, 410.528.5304 Map E7

Art/Craft Galleries ART GALLERY OF FELLS POINT—

Nonprofit co-op for sculpture, photography, glass work, oils by local artists. Th-Sa noon-6 pm, Su 11 am-5 pm. 1716 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.327.1272 Map F7 BUTLER GALLERY— Framed art, gifts,

jewelry and accessories in addition to custom framing. M 10 am-5 pm, Tu-Th 10 am-7 pm, F till 8 pm, Sa 10 am-6 pm, Su 11 am-5 pm. www.butlergallery. net. 11121 York Road, Hunt Valley, Md., 410.584.1115 Map C1 C. GRIMALDIS GALLERY— Contemporary

gallery of post-World War II art. Representing Anthony Caro, Grace Hartigan (estate), Raoul Middleman, Chul Hyun Ahn, John Waters. Tu-Sa 10 am5:30 pm. www.cgrimaldisgallery.com. 523 N. Charles St., Mount Vernon, 410.539.1080 Map C4

CORRADETTI GLASSBLOWING— In

historic Clipper Mill, studio and gallery for vases, bowls, ornaments and jewelry. Tu-F 11 am-6 pm, Sa 11 am-5 pm, Su 11 am-3 pm. www.corradetti.com. 2010 Clipper Park Road, Ste. 119, Woodberry, 410.243.2010 North of Map A1 CRYSTAL MOLL GALLERY— Paintings of

Baltimore by plein-air artist owner and others. Tu-Sa noon-6 pm. www.crystal moll.com/gallery/. 1030 S. Charles St., Federal Hill, 410.952.2843 Map C8 GOYA CONTEMPORARY— Fine prints

including Wilhelm Mundt, David Hess and Liliana Porter. Up-and-comers via Goya-Girl Press. Tu-F 10 am-6 pm, Sa noon-5 pm. www.goyacontemporary. com/index.php. Mill Center, Studio 214, 3000 Chestnut Ave., Hampden, 410.366.2001 North of Map A1 POTTERS GUILD— Handcrafted pottery

by more than 40 local ceramic artists. Minutes from the Light Rail (Woodberry stop). Th-F 11 am-4 pm, Sa-Su noon-5 pm. www.pottersguild.org. 3600 Clipper Mill Road, Hampden, 410.235.4884 North of Map A1 ROBERT MCCLINTOCK STUDIO GALLERY— Gallery-studio exhibiting

vibrant works on the quirkiness and beauty of Baltimore. McClintock’s medium: photography merged with digital painting. Tu-Sa 11 am-6 pm, Su noon-5 pm. www.robertmcclintock. com. 1809 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.814.2800 Map F7 THE PEARL GALLERY— Chinese antique

furnishings, accessories for the home, an art gallery and custom framing. Th-Sa 11 am-5 pm, Su noon-4 pm. www. thepearlgallery.com. 826 W. 36th St., Hampden, 443.390.6599 Map C3 TRADESTONE GALLERY— Vast collection

of Russian art, painting, nesting dolls, Sofrino icons, jewelry, eggs, Zhostovo trays, Russian lacquer boxes. W-Su 10 am-8 pm. www.tradestonegallery.com. 803 Light St., Federal Hill, 443.738.5246 Map C8 WHOLLYTERRA— Rustic studio of glass art-

ist Steve Baker just off Hampden’s famed “The Avenue.” Stained glass circles seen on many local transoms, plus objects like bowls, sculpture. Custom pieces. F noon6 pm, Sa 10 am-5 pm. www.whollyterra. com. 3406 Chestnut Ave., Hampden, 410.446.1093

w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m

THE GUIDE Bakeries

THE CHILDREN’S BOOKSTORE— Spe-

cializes in fine children’s literature and illustration. Stuffed toys, puppets, posters, seasonal items, cards, audio tapes and CDs also available. M-Sa 10 am-5:30 pm. www.thecbstore.com. 737 Deepdene Road, Roland Park, 410.532.2000 Map C3

DANGEROUSLY DELICIOUS PIES—

Rock-’n’-roller Rodney “The Pie Man” Henry’s sinfully delectable desserts in both sweet (apple, banana cream) and savory (spicy chicken cilantro, ratatouille) flavors. Hours vary by location. www.dangerouspiesbalt. com. 810 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.522.7437 North of Map B1; 2839 O’DonnellSt.,Canton,410.522.7437MapG8

THE IVY BOOKSHOP— New fiction, non-

fiction titles, art and children’s books. Weekly events. M-F 10 am-7 pm, Sa till 6 pm, Su 11 am-5 pm. www. theivybookshop.com. 6080 Falls Road, Mount Washington, 410.377.2966

PATISSERIE POUPON— Local favorite

cake shop makes exquisite artisan cakes, tarts, pastries in Little Italy. Party trays, holiday themes. M-Sa 7 am6 pm. www.patisseriepoupon.net. 820 E. Baltimore St., Downtown, 410.332.0390 Map D5; 225 N. Charles St., 410.752.1200 Map C5

THE KELMSCOTT BOOKSHOP— Rare and

fine books, manuscripts, prints and antique “book art.” M-F 10 am-6 pm and by appointment Saturday. www.kelm scottbookshop.com. 34 W. 25th St., Charles Village, 410.235.6810 Map C1

VACCARO’S— Since 1956, Italian sweets

(29 varieties of cookies), rum cake, cheesecake, tiramisu, sfogliatelle, pasticiotti, eclairs, gelati, Napoleons, cannoli. Little Italy: Su-Th 9 am-10 pm, F-Sa till midnight. O’Donnell Street hours differ. www.vaccarospastry.com. 222 Albemarle St., Little Italy, 410.685.4905. Map D6; O’Donnell Square, 2919 O’Donnell St., 410.276.4744 Map G8

Children’s Shops AMUSE TOYS— Eco-friendly specialty toy

store with educational games, stuffed animals and other well-made items. A variety of products open and on display for in-store play time. Su-Th 10 am-6 pm, F-Sa till 7 pm. www. amusetoys.com. 1623 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.342.5000 Map E7; 2580 Quarry Lake Drive 410.415.0000

Books ATOMIC BOOKS— ”Literary finds for

mutated minds” like obscure comics, magazines, DVDs. A favorite of native son John Waters—who receives his fan mail here. Next door, sister shop Celebrated Summer record store. SuTu 11:30 am-7 pm, W-Th, Sa till 9 pm, F till 10 pm. www.atomicbooks. com. 3620 Falls Road, Hampden, 410.662.4444 North of Map A1

CANTON GAMES— Board games,

Dungeons & Dragons books, action figures, collectibles and more. Try out purchases on a table in-store. M-F noon-7 pm, Sa-Su 10 am-6 pm. www. cantongames.com. 2101 Essex St., Canton, 410.276.2640 Map F7

Home Decor IN WATERMELON SUGAR— Fun shop

at the end of The Avenue filled to the rafters with home decor, jewelry, stationery, scented candles. Seasonal items and gifts. M-Sa 10 am-6 pm, Su noon4 pm. www.inwatermelonsugarshop. com. 3555 Chestnut Ave., Hampden, 410.662.9090

BIRD IN HAND— Coffeehouse. James

Beard Award-winner Spike Gjerde with Ivy Bookshop owners offering Artifact brews and bestsellers. Soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts. Book signings/readings, other events. Coffee shop: B, L, D (daily). Bookstore: M-F 7 am-7 pm, Sa-Su 8 am-7 pm. www.birdinhandcharlesvillage. com. 11 E. 33rd St., Charles Village, 410.814.0373 North of Map D1

PHINA’S FOR THE HOME— Wide selec-

BOOK ESCAPE— New and used books

in welcoming environment with comfy chairs, neatly arranged shelves. M-Sa 10 am-6 pm, Su noon-6 pm. www.the bookescape.com. 805 Light St., Federal Hill, 410.504.1902 Map C8

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

tion of fine linens, towels, pillows, candles and other home goods. Also skin products by Ahava, Spa Blends and Erbaviva. Tu-Sa noon-6 pm, Th till 8 pm, Su noon-4 pm (check Facebook for exact times). www.phinas. com. 919 S. Charles St., Federal Hill, 410.685.0911 Map C8

SU CASA— Stylish furniture, decorative

arts, wine gear, items for the kitchen and kids stuff. M-Th 10 am-8 pm, F-Sa 10 am-9 pm, Su till 7 pm. www.esu casa.com. 901 S. Bond St., Fells Point, 410.522.7010 Map E8 TROHV— Two-level shop stocked with

clever, artful gift items: greeting cards, bar and kitchen gear, office accessories, jewelry, baby items. Also furniture and goods by local artisans. M-Th 11 am-7 pm, Fri. till 8 pm, Sa 10 am8 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. www.trohvshop. com. 921 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.366.3456 North of Map A1

Jewelry & Gifts 2910 ON THE SQUARE— On O’Donnell

Square, handmade gifts, artisan jewelry, accessories and Judaica as well as pet items and home goods. Tu-F noon-7 pm, Sa 10 am-7 pm, Su 10 am-4 pm www.2910onthesquare. com. 2910 O’Donnell St., Canton, 410.675.8505 Map G8 ART OF HOROLOGY— Nonprofit

workshop founded by horologist, Steven Richardson, with a celebrity following. Unique wristwatches made by workshop students for sale, along with some jewelry. Classes/workshops for the career-minded and hobbyist. Repairs. Call for hours. www.artofhorology.org. 16 E. Chase Ste. 104, Mount Vernon, 410.637.3509 Map C2 BIJOUX— Antique, estate and contem-

porary pieces. Jewelry from Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian to Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Tu-F 10 am-5 pm, Sa till 4 pm. www.bijouxjewels.com. 316 Wyndhurst Station, Roland Park, 443.948.5938 BLANCA FLOR— Intricately designed jew-

elry and handmade metalworks (trays, bowls) from Mexico, American Southwest, Indonesia and other far-flung locales. www.blancaflorsilverjewelry. com. 34 Market Space, Annapolis, Md., 410.268.7666 EMPORIUM COLLAGIA— Local artist

Luana Kaufmann offers soaps, jewelry, glassware, stationery, botanicals, gifts plus own found-image art. Su-Th 10 am-7 pm, F-Sa noon-10 pm. www. emporiumcollagia.com. 1732 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.534.5340 Map F7

SHOPPING MISHA & CO.— Exquisite custom fine

TASTE BALTIMORE IMORE BALTIMORE AT L E X I N G T O N M A R K E T

jewelry from statement pieces to engagement rings and wedding bands. Engraving. Pre-owned watch purchases. M, Sa 10 am-5 pm, Tu-W, F till 6 pm, Th till 8 pm. www.mishaandco. com. Green Spring Station, 10751 Falls Road, Lutherville, Md., 443.275.1321 Welcome to Lexington Market, the best way to taste what Baltimore has to offer. Whether you come from near or far,

Monday - Saturday 6:30am - 6:00pm 400 W. Lexington St. Baltimore, MD LexingtonMarket.com

you’ll find the city’s favorite flavors served up by Baltimore natives. We’ve got dozens of vendors, offering all kinds of fresh-made food for you to sample and savor.

MUD & METAL— Mix of jewelry,

American-made crafts and hardware, with large, quirky selection of pulls and knobs. Th-Su 11 am-6 pm. www. mudandmetal.com. 1121 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.467.8698 Map C3

Music CELEBRATED SUMMER RECORDS—

Offshoot of John Waters’ haunt Atomic Books located next door, stocking new and used rock, punk, soul, R&B and jazz vinyl records in a tidy space. Daily noon-7 pm. www.celebratedsum merecords.blogspot.com. 3616 Falls Road, Hampden, 443.866.9988 North of Map A1 THE SOUND GARDEN— Baltimore

institution stocks rare imports to Top 40. Knowledgeable staff. Listen before you buy. In-store performances. Su-Th 10 am-10 pm, F-Sa till midnight. www. cdjoint.com. 1616 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.563.9011 Map E7 THE TRUE VINE RECORD SHOP— Many

where you are. ®

(and where you’re going.) All the latest buzz about the city from the experts at Where Magazine. Shopping, dining, attractions, it’s all here 24/7.

music lovers call this shop one of the best. Notable international selection, extensive section of mainstream and rare vinyl records. Su-M noon-6 pm, Tu till 9 pm, W-Th till 8 pm, F-Sa till 9 pm. www.thetruevinerecordshop. com. 3544 Hickory Ave., Hampden, 410.235.4500 Northeast of Map 1A

Personal Care ABOUT FACES DAY SPA & SALON—Well-

appointed retail shop with services including massages, facials, hair cuts/ styling, mani/pedis, waxing and makeup application. High-end products including Clarisonic, Caudalie, Bumble and Bumble, etc. M-Tu 10 am-7:30 pm, W-Th 9 am-8:30 pm, F 8:30 am-7:30 pm, Sa 8 am-6 pm, Su 10 am-5:30 pm. www.aboutfacesdayspa.com. 1501 S. Clinton St., Canton, 410.675.0099 South of Map H8 SIMPLE WELLNESS SPA— Full-service spa

for massages, manicures, pedicures and eyelash extensions. Specialty:

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THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

hair extensions, trichology (hair/scalp disorders) with customized treatments. By appointment. Walk-ins M-Sa 10 am-6 pm. www.dayspasw. com. 519 N. Charles St., Mount Vernon, 410.483.9355 Map C4

Market/. Light & Cross sts., Federal Hill, 410.528.1186 Map C8 GREEN SPRING STATION— Collection

of locally owned boutiques, salons and restaurants (Becket Hitch home decor, Francesca’s Bridal, Stone Mill Bakery, The Wine Merchant). Hours vary by vendor. Check website. www. greenspringstation.com. 10803 Falls Road, Lutherville, Md., 410.825.0400

SOBOTANICAL— Popular online shop’s

first brick-and-mortar storefront offering an aromatherapy bar with all-natural essential oils, plus custom blending. Tu-Sa 11 am-7 pm, Su till 5 pm. www.sobotanical.com. 48 E. Cross St., Federal Hill, 410.234.0333 Map C8

HAGERSTOWN PREMIUM OUTLETS—

Outlet stores like Banana Republic, Kate Spade, Nike, J. Crew, Tommy Hilfiger and Coach. M-Sa 10 am-9 pm, Su till 7 pm. www.premiumoutlets. com/outlet/hagerstown. 495 Premium Outlets Blvd., Hagerstown, Md., 301.790.0300

SPA AT FOUR SEASONS— Elegant,

10,000-square-foot oasis for pampering inside the Four Seasons Hotel. Massages and skin treatments, plus specialties including relaxation rooms, pool, Finnish rock sauna, aromatherapy steam room. “The Night Experience” for couples with treatments, candle-lit rose-petal bath, tasting menu dinner and Champagne. Daily 8 am-9 pm. www.fourseasons.com/baltimore/spa. 200 International Drive, Harbor East, 410.223.1440 Map E7

LEXINGTON MARKET— Opened in 1782,

now largest of the city’s six historic market buildings. Loud, bustling home of Faidley Seafood with famous crab cakes. Fresh produce, baked goods (Berger cookies), local meats from more than 90 vendors. M-Sa 6 am6 pm. www.lexingtonmarket.com. Lexington and Eutaw sts., Downtown, 410.685.6169 Map C5

THE SPA AT THE IVY— Luxe spa inside

The Ivy Hotel for facials, massages and body treatments using Natura Bissé products. Also mani-pedis, makeup/ hair services. By appointment only. www.theivybaltimore.com/the-ivyspa. 205 E. Biddle St., Mount Vernon, 410.514.6180 Map D2

THE QG— Retro-inspired one-stop

department store with men’s and women’s apparel, grooming parlor, cigar lounge, spa and shoe shine. Upstairs bar with pool table, shuffleboard and restaurant. M 11:30 am-8 pm, Tu-F 10 am-8 pm, Sa 9 am-5 pm, Su 11 am5 pm. www.theqg.com. 31 S. Calvert St., Inner Harbor, 410.685.7428 Map C6

SPROUT— Hampden salon specializing

in non-toxic products from shampoos/conditioners to color and even recycled building materials. Tu-F 10 am-7 pm, Sa 10 am-5 pm. www.sproutsalon.com. 925 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.235.2269 North of Map A1

Specialty A GOOD YARN— Learn how to knit at

this teaching shop with a variety of classes from which to choose. Tu-F 11 am-6 pm by appointment only. Sa open coffee 10 am-noon. www. agoodyarn.com. 1738 Aliceanna St., Fells Point, 410.327.3884 Map F7

Retail Centers ARUNDEL MILLS— Outlet and retail mall

with 200-plus retailers, restaurants and entertainment, Cinemark Egyptian 24 Theaters and Maryland Live! Casino. A 20-minute drive from Baltimore. M-Sa 10 am-9:30 pm, Su 11 am-7 pm. www. arundelmillsmall.com. 7000 Arundel Mills Circle, Hanover, Md., 410.540.5100

CHARM CITY CHOCOLATE— Husband-

and-wife team sharing family recipes for cherry cordials, truffles and bon bons, plus seasonal specials. W-Th noon-7 pm, F-Sa noon-8 pm, Su till 5 pm. www.charmcitychocolate. com. 809 W. 36th St., Hampden, 443.449.5164 North of Map A1

CROSS STREET MARKET— Since 1846,

fresh seafood, wings, ice cream, pastries, flowers, cheese, tobacco and fruit. M-Sa 7 am-7 pm, Su 10 am7 pm. www.facebook.com/CrossSt

CROSS STREET TOBACCO— Family-

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

owned, oldest-operating cigar shop in the city with knowledgeable staff helping newbies and connoisseurs

alike. Extensive selection in walk-in humidor maintained at 70 percent humidity, plus accessories for both cigars and pipes. M-Th 10 am-9 pm, F-Sa till 10 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. www. cstcigars.com. 1103 Light St., Federal Hill, 410.752.9220 Map C8 POLINA’S PRIVÉ LINGERIE— Pretty

shop for top-quality women’s intimate apparel, loungewear and accessories. Brands like Bristols Six, Eberjay, La Perla. M-Th 11 am-7 pm, F-Sa till 8 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. www.polinasprive. com. 724 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 410.276.0205 Map F7

Wine/Gourmet Foods BELVEDERE SQUARE MARKET— Vendors

like Atwater’s Bakery, Neopol Savory Smokery and Pure Chocolate by Jinji. Hours vary by vendor. Check website for details. www.belvederesquare.com. 529 E. Belvedere Ave., North Baltimore, 410.464.9773 North of Map F1 CHEESE GALORE AND MORE!— Inside

historic Cross Street Market, a cheese lover’s paradise slicing up aged asiago to tomme de savoie. Also all-natural salami, olives, homemade crostini and fresh baked bread. M-F 9 am-7 pm, Sa till 6 pm. www.cheesegaloreand more.com. Cross Street Market, 1065 S. Charles St., Federal Hill, 410.244.5515 Map C8 MT. VERNON MARKETPLACE— Hip

marketplace with an industrial vibe, featuring food vendors (Pinch for dumplings, Taps Fill Station, The Local Oyster) and some retail (produce, coffee, tea, housewares). Near Walters Art Museum. Su-Th 11 am-10 pm, F-Sa till midnight. www.mtvernonmarketplace. com. 520 Park Ave., Mount Vernon, 443.796.7393 Map C4 TRINACRIA—Since 1908, family-run

marketplace for Italian gourmet foods, wines, plus a deli serving paninis, subs, salads. Tu-Sa 8 am-4:30 pm. www. trinacriabaltimore.com. 406 N. Paca St., Mount Vernon, 410.685.7285 Map B4 URBAN CELLARS BEER, WINE & SPIRITS— “Local libations” at Charles

Plaza. Domestic and imported fine wines, craft beers, premium liquors plus the knowledgeable counsel of owner Jim Amato. M-Sa 10 am-10 pm. 222 N. Charles St., Downtown, 410.528.8088 Map C5

THE GUIDE

Museums+Attractions

Port Discovery This top-ranked children’s museum just north of the Inner Harbor offers educational entertainment with engaging activities like deciphering hieroglyphics and “operating” a bustling diner. But big changes are coming in 2019,

Art Museums (FROM LEFT) ©RITU MANOJ JETHANI/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©KEN STANEK PHOTOGRAPHY

AMERICAN VISIONARY ART MUSEUM—

Unique in the U.S. for presenting work by self-taught, outsider artists. Jim Rouse Visionary Center with two floors of art cars, the Cabaret Mechanical Theatre, kinetic sculptures. Paintings from the Von Bruenchenhein Collection. “Parenting: An Art Without a Manual,” 36 artists illustrating the complexity of caring for children, ongoing. Tu-Su 10 am-6 pm. $15.95, seniors $13.95, students $9.95, 6 and under free. Sideshow gift shop and Encantada restaurant. www.avam.org. 800 Key Highway, 410.244.1900 Map D8 BALTIMORE MUSEUM OF ART— Hous-

ing 95,000 objects, ancient mosaics to contemporary art. Cone Collection features Renoir, Matisse, Gauguin and Picasso. Dorothy McIlvain Scott American Wing showcasing 200 years of American artistic efforts, Tiffany Hall and grand salon of Maryland-related

Baltimore Basilica like a planned three-story, interactive ship and a four-story “Skyclimber” that lets kids explore “underwater” and “in the clouds” all around the Port. $15.95. www. portdiscovery.org. 35 Market Place, 410.727.8120. Map D6

In 1806, Bishop John Carroll laid the cornerstone here, the Mother Church of Roman Catholicism. Today, it houses artifacts dating from the 17th century. www.americas firstcathedral.org. 409 Cathedral St., 410.727.3565. Map C4

works. African and Asian art galleries featuring 85 works in the former and more than 2,000 in the latter. Many more. “John Waters: Indecent Exposure,” first retrospective of the filmmaker’s career in his hometown, through Jan. 6. “Time Frames: Contemporary East Asian Photography,” more than 40 color and black-and-white photos contemplating the idea of time, through March 24. “Mark Bradford: Tomorrow Is Another Day,” the artist’s memories as seen through recycled materials, ongoing. W-Sa 10 am-5 pm. Free. www. artbma.org. 10 Art Museum Drive, 443.573.1700 North of Map D1

tours ($8) every hour from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm. www.bromoseltzertower.com. 21 S. Eutaw St., 443.874.3596 Map C6

BROMO SELTZER ARTS TOWER— The

city’s tallest building at the time of its 1911 construction, built by Captain Isaac Emerson, inventor of the Bromo Seltzer headache remedy. Now a Westside icon holding studio space for more than 30 visual and performing artists with museum. Open house every Sa 11 am-4 pm with clock room

MARYLAND INSTITUTE COLLEGE OF ART (MICA)— Nation’s oldest fully

accredited, four-year, degree-granting art college with gallery for works by national and international artists, faculty and students. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Su noon-5 pm. Free. www.mica.edu. Fox Building, 1300 W. Mount Royal Ave., 410.669.9200 Map C1 WALTERS ART MUSEUM— In elegant

quarters, a collection built upon that of railroad investor William Thompson Walters and his son Henry. Art, jewelry, medieval armor and Egyptian collection (virtual autopsy of a mummy). Newly renovated Hackerman House with dramatic staircase, Tiffany stained glass skylight and Baccarat-style chandeliers. “Japanese Woodblock Prints: The Art of Collaboration,” more than 40 of these prints dating from the

ALL LEADSculptor IN MyriadJeff ProSemi condensed text here dummy textcelebs here for text(this herepage) for dummy RADCAP GRADS Koons bold and “Broad City”7.5pt star dummy Abbi Jacobsen arefor two of many whodummy call MICA their text alma mater.

w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m

THE GUIDE 17th to 19th centuries; “The Return of the Buddha,” the museum’s renowned 6th century lacquer statue,” both through Jan. 6. “Ceramics: Materials and Techniques,” in the renovated galleries on the second floor of 1 West, ceramics from around the world, ongoing. W-Su 10 am-5 pm, Th 10 am-9 pm. Free. Café. www.thewalters.org. 600 N. Charles St., 410.547.9000 Map C3

MARYLAND SCIENCE CENTER— Three

levels of interactive exhibits. Live demonstrations like “Dinosaur Mysteries,” “Follow the Blue Crab” and newest “Science & Main.” The Shed, DIY workshop for all ages. 50-foot domed Davis Planetarium, an IMAX theater with five-story-high movie screens. M-F 10 am-6 pm, Sa 10 am-6 pm, Su 11 am-5 pm. $24.95, seniors $23.95, children 3-12 $18.95, under 3 free. IMAX extra. Gift shop and café. www.mdsci.org. 601 Light St., 410.685.5225 Map C7

Attractions EDGAR ALLAN POE’S GRAVE— At West-

minster burial grounds, final resting place of Baltimore’s most famous poet. On Poe’s birthday, Jan. 19, an unknown admirer brought cognac and roses at dawn to his grave for years until 2010. Now, a new “Poe Toaster” continues the tradition. Tours first and third Fridays between April and November. 8 am-dusk. Free. 519 W. Fayette St., 410.706.2072 Map B5

MARYLAND ZOO IN BALTIMORE— More

than 1,500 animals on 160 acres. Raptor Garden, Giraffe Feeding Station, Polar Bear Watch and Chimpanzee Forest. Rise and Conquer, official mascots of the NFL Ravens. “Penguin Coast,” a state-of-the-art exhibit recreating the South African waterside home of these endangered birds, with up-close and underwater views. Daily 10 am-4 pm. $19, seniors $16, children $15, under 2 free. Free parking. www. marylandzoo.org. Druid Hill Park 410.396.7102 North of Map B1

FORT MCHENRY— A strategic instal-

lation protecting the city during the Revolution, War of 1812 and Civil War. War of 1812 battle here inspired Francis Scott Key to pen the words of “The Star-Spangled Banner.” Visitors center has films and exhibits. Daily flag raising at 10 am, lowering at 4 pm. Visitors Center and Star Fort 9 am-4:45 pm, park 9 am-5 pm. $10, 15 and under free. www.nps.gov/fomc. 2400 E. Fort Ave., 410.962.4290 South of Map F8

NATIONAL AQUARIUM— Nearly 20,000

creatures housed in rain forest, Australian river gorge and coral reef ecosystems. See jellies and animal feedings. 4-D Immersion Theater and Harbor Market Kitchen. Ongoing exhibitions like “Living Seashore” with two touch pools. “Blacktip Reef,” a 260,000-gallon Indo-Pacific coral reef exhibit with up-close views of sharks, stingrays and a 500-pound sea turtle. “Dolphin Discovery,” all-day access to dolphins and experts, featuring training, play, feeding times and more. Daily from 9 am. $39.95, seniors $34.95, children (3-11) $24.95, under 3 free. Special tours vary. Online purchase with timed entry recommended. At the Inner Harbor. www.aqua.org. 501 E. Pratt St., 410.576.3800 Map D6

HISTORIC SHIPS IN BALTIMORE— The

USS Constellation, from 1854, was the last Civil War-era vessel built by the Navy. After years of restoration, the 1,400-ton, 179-foot warship returned to the Inner Harbor in 1999. Other Inner Harbor ships to tour: USCGC Taney, the last surviving warship of Pearl Harbor; USS Torsk, a sub from World War II; LV 116 Chesapeake, a lightship that guided early-1900s mariners across the Chesapeake Bay. Daily from 10 am. Hours vary by month; call to confirm. www.historicships.org. Pier 1, 301 E. Pratt St., 410.539.1797 Map D6

PHOENIX SHOT TOWER— Before D.C.’s

M&T BANK STADIUM— Home of

Baltimore’s NFL franchise (and Super Bowl XLVII champions!) the Ravens since 1998. 71,000-capacity stadium (119 suites and 8,196 club seats) west of the Inner Harbor. www. baltimoreravens.com. 1101 Russell St., 410.261.7283 Map B8

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

Washington Monument, the tallest building in the United States. Bulletproducing site on the grounds of the Carroll Mansion, former residence of Charles Carroll, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. National Historic Landmark. Sa-Su 10 am-noon, free drop-ins. Tower tours Sa-Su with admission to Carroll Museum ($5). www. carrollmuseums.org. 800 E. Fayette St., at President St., 410.605.2964 Map D5

RIPLEY’S BELIEVE IT OR NOT!— An

8,000-square-foot “odditorium” for experiencing the weird, wonderful world of Ripley. Outrageous and incredible artifacts from around the world, plus illusions in the Marvelous Mirror Maze and 4D Moving Theater. M-Th 10 am9 pm, F-Sa till 10 pm, Su till 6 pm. $17.99, children (ages 3-11) $11.99, plus fees for theater and maze. Combo tickets available. www.ripleys.com/baltimore. 301 Light St., 443.615.7878 Map C6 TOP OF THE WORLD— Sweeping city

views from the 27th floor of the I.M. Pei-designed World Trade Center, the tallest pentagonal building (all angles being equal) in the world. Observation level museum with rotating art exhibitions. “9/11 Maryland Memorial,” artifacts from the Twin Towers, Pentagon and Flight 93, honoring those who lost their lives that tragic day, ongoing. Hours vary by season. Check website for most up-to-date information. $6, seniors/military $5, children (ages 3-12) $4, under 3 free. www.viewbaltimore.org. 401 E. Pratt St., 410.837.8439 Map D6 WESTMINSTER HALL AND BURYING GROUND— Restored historic church

surrounded by one of Baltimore’s oldest cemeteries. Plots holding many public figures, including Edgar Allan Poe. Burial grounds daily 8 am-dusk. Free. Hall/catacomb tours first and third F-Sa of the month at 6:30 pm (F) and 10 am (Sa) through November. $5, seniors/children $3. www. westminsterhall.org. 519 W. Fayette St., 410.706.2072 Map B5

Historic Religious Sites LLOYD STREET SYNAGOGUE— Mary-

land’s first synagogue in 1845, now the third-oldest in the country and built by Baltimore Hebrew Congregation. Site of the Jewish Museum of Maryland. Gift shop and library. Synagogue guided tours Su-Th. Admission $10, seniors $8, students $6, under 12 $4, under 4 free. www.jhsm.org. 15 Lloyd St., 410.732.6400 Map E5 THE NATIONAL SHRINE OF ST. ALPHONSUS LIGUORI— Designed

by architect Robert Cary Long in 1845 in Southern German neo-Gothic style, featuring the only Tridentine Latin Mass in the city. Sunday Mass: Traditional Latin (8 am, 11 am), English (9:30 am) M-Sa Mass 7 am (Tu. Th, Sa), 12:10 pm

M U S E U M S + AT T R A C T I O N S (M, W, F). Call to arrange tours. www. stalphonsusbalt.org. 114 W. Saratoga St., 410.685.6090 Map C4 OLD ST. PAUL’S CHURCH— The Anglican

community’s “Mother Church of Baltimore.” Founded in 1692. Current building, one of the city’s architectural gems, dates to 1856. Sunday services (8:30 and 10:30 a.m.) plus Wed. noon. Eucharist service. www. stpaulsbaltimore.org. 309 Cathedral St., 410.685.3404 Map C5 ST. MARY’S SPIRITUAL CENTER & HISTORIC SITE— Site of the first

Catholic seminary in the United States (1791) and home of first American saint Elizabeth Seton. Tours M-F noon3:30 pm, Sa-Su 1-3 pm. Call ahead during inclement weather. Free. www. stmaryspacast.org. 600 N. Paca St., 410.728.6464. Map B4 ST. VINCENT DE PAUL CHURCH— City’s

oldest Catholic parish, built in 1840. Georgian architecture with distinctive 14-bell, hand-rung carillon. Tours available on request. Services M-F noon, Sat. 7:15 pm, Su 9:30 am and 11:45 am. www.stvchurch.org. 120 N. Front St., 410.962.5078 Map D5

Monuments & Memorials HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL— Sculptor

Joseph Sheppard’s powerful bronze work pays tribute to the millions killed in the Holocaust. Central plaza is triangular like the badges Jews were forced to wear. Inscribed plaques, station lamp posts and boxcar symbols plus 1940s railroad tracks lining walks. www.josephsheppard.com/Holocaust/ NewMemorial.htm. 1009 N. Charles St., 410.542.4850 Map D6 WASHINGTON MONUMENT— The

178-foot-column (227 steps up), built in 1815, is the nation’s first memorial for George Washington. Architect Robert Mills also designed the monument in Washington, D.C. Renovated museum (free) plus two time capsules with some items on display at Maryland Historical Society. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. Reserve online to climb steps. $6, children (13 and under) $4. www.mvpconservancy.org. 699 N. Charles St., 410.962.5070 Map C3

Museums & Libraries B&O RAILROAD MUSEUM— Smithsonian

Institution affiliate with the oldest, most comprehensive collection of railroad artifacts in the Western Hemisphere. Site (40 acres) features the 1851 Mount Clare Station, 1884 Baldwin Roundhouse and first mile of commercial railroad track in the United States. “The War Came By Train,” rail artifacts and locomotives commemorating the Civil War’s 150th anniversary, ongoing. M-Sa 10 am-4 pm, Su 11 am-4 pm. $20, seniors (60+) $17, children $12, under 2 free. www.borail.org. 901 W. Pratt St., 410.752.2490 Map A6 BABE RUTH BIRTHPLACE MUSEUM—

Early residence of George Herman Ruth Jr. recalling the childhood years of the baseball legend. Exhibitions include “Babe Batted Here;” “Babe: Husband, Father, Friend;” and “’O’ Say Can You See: The Star-Spangled Banner in Sports.” Hours vary by season. Check website for details. Gift shop. $10 adults, seniors and military $8, children (ages 5-16) $5. baberuthmuseum.org/. 216 Emory St., 410.727.1539 Map B6 BALTIMORE CIVIL WAR MUSEUM—

Exhibits at historic President St. Station. On April 9, 1861, the first bloodshed of the Civil War occurred when a Massachusetts volunteer militia left this station to walk to the B&O’s Camden Station but was attacked by Southern sympathizers. Gift shop. F-M 10 am-4 pm. $3, children (ages 13-19) $2, under 12 free. www.baltimorecivilwarmuseum.com. 601 S. President St., 443.220.0290 Map E7 BALTIMORE COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM— In a 19th-century

stone building, manuscripts, photos, ledgers and clippings document the county’s history. Fri. noon-4 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. $5. www.hsobc.org. 9811 Van Buren Ln., Cockeysville, Md., 410.666.1878 BALTIMORE MUSEUM OF INDUSTRY—

On the waterfront site of an 1865 oyster cannery, theme galleries (pharmacy, machine shop) and artifacts like a Linotype and 1930s spice grinder used to concoct Old Bay seasoning. “Video Game Wizards: Transforming Science and Art Into Game,” interactive installation allowing aspiring designers to create their own computer game; “Why We Work,” an interactive piece

featuring contemporary and historic portraits of Baltimoreans in their workplaces, ongoing. Tu-Su 10 am-4 pm. $12, seniors $9, students/youth (7-18) $7, under 7 free. www.thebmi.org. 1415 Key Highway, 410.727.4808 South of Map D8 BALTIMORE STREETCAR MUSEUM—

Ride an authentic streetcar plus vehicles dating from 1859 to 1963. Su (and Sa through October) noon-5 pm $10, seniors/children $8, under 4 free. www.baltimorestreetcar museum.org. 1901 Falls Road, 410.547.0264 North of Map C1 CARROLL MANSION— Home of Charles

Carroll, only Catholic signer of Declaration of Independence. Dedicated to history of Baltimore and Jonestown. Tours (also to Phoenix Shot Tower). Sa-Su noon-4 pm (last tour starts 3 pm). Admission $5, children/seniors/students/military $4, under 6 free. www. carrollmuseums.org. 800 E. Lombard St., 410.605.2964 Map E6 DR. SAMUEL D. HARRIS NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DENTISTRY— Objects like

George Washington’s dentures shown within the world’s first dental college. Films, historic teeth, toothbrushes through time, interactive exhibits that let kids play dentist. “The Operatory of the Future” and “American College of Dentists’ Mace and Torch,” symbols of the founding of the college. M-F 9 am-4 pm; call to schedule a tour. $7, seniors/students $6, ages 3-12 $5, under 2 free. www.dentalmuseum.org. 31 S. Greene St., 410.706.0600 Map B5 EDGAR ALLAN POE HOUSE MUSEUM—

The “master of the macabre” lived here from 1832 until 1835. Museum was reopened after renovations in fall 2013. Biographical video, period furnishings. Th-Su 11 am-4 pm. $8, seniors (65+)/ military/students $6, children under 12 free. www.poeinbaltimore.org. 203 N. Amity St., 410.462.1763 Map A4 ENOCH PRATT FREE LIBRARY— Crown

jewel of the city’s library system and one of the oldest in the country, dating from 1882. Featuring soaring architecture as well as cozy reading nooks. Benefactor Pratt mandated it serve both rich and poor of all races. Hours vary by branch. Check website for exact times. www.prattlibrary.org. 400 Cathedral St., 410.396.5430 Map C4

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THE GUIDE EVERGREEN MUSEUM & LIBRARY—

Ambassador John Work Garrett’s 48-room Gilded Age mansion. Art, rare books, opulent furnishings, Léon Bakst décor. Tu-F 11 am-4 pm, Sa-Su from noon. Tours available. Admission $8, seniors $7, students/ children $5, under 6 free. www. museums.jhu.edu. 4545 N. Charles St., 410.516.0341 North of Map D1

Peter’s Church and the Hollins Street Market. Register online or by phone. Free. www.irishshrine.org. 920 Lemmon St., 410.669.8154 Map A6 JEWISH MUSEUM OF MARYLAND— One

of the largest Jewish museums in the country. Three galleries with exhibits, library, research center containing more than 1.1 million documents, artifacts and photos. Three-building complex includes the B’nai Israel Synagogue built in 1876. “Inescapable: The Life and Legacy of Harry Houdini,” a look at the life and magic of Harry Houdini, through Jan. 21. Su-Th 10 am-5 pm. $10, seniors (65+) $8, students with ID $6, children (4-12) $4, under 4 free. www.jewishmuseummd.org. 15 Lloyd St., 410.732.6400 Map E5

FIRE MUSEUM OF MARYLAND— Bells,

flashing lights, antique vehicles and an engine to climb plus 250 years of firefighting history. Exhibits like “The Great Baltimore Fire of 1904.” Gift shop. Sa 10 am-4 pm. $15, seniors/firefighters $13, ages 2-18 $7, under 2 free. www.firemuseummd.org. 1301 York Rd., Lutherville, 410.321.7500 FREDERICK DOUGLASS-ISAAC MYERS MARITIME PARK— Dedicated to the

JOHNS HOPKINS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM— More than 700 objects

African-American shipbuilders who, like orator Douglass, toiled on the docks of Fells Point. Gallery space featuring learning centers and ship restoration workshop. Museum M-F 10 am-4 pm. $5, seniors $4, students $2, under 6 free. www. douglassmyers.org. 1417 Thames St., 410.685.0295 Map E8 GEORGE PEABODY LIBRARY— The noted

housed in renovated university building’s atrium. Interior features drawers for cuneiform tablets, stamped bricks from Rome and more. On loan: Goucher College’s Egyptian mummy. M-Th 11:30 am-1:30 pm and by appointment. Free. archaeologicalmuseum.jhu.edu. 150 Gilman Hall, 3400 N. Charles St., 410.516.0383 N of Map C1 MARYLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY—

philanthropist-built library, a celebrated architectural achievement, in 1866. More than 300,000 volumes, mostly from 18th to early 20th centuries. Tu-Th 10 am-5 pm, F 10 am-3 pm, Sa 10 am1 pm. Free. www.peabodyevents. library.jhu.edu. 17 E. Mount Vernon Place, 443.840.9585 Map C3

A 150-plus-year-old society with more than 350,000 artifacts and a library of nearly 7 million items, including original manuscript of “The Star-Spangled Banner” and the original Lady Baltimore statue from the Battle Monument, the city’s official emblem. Period furniture, silver, toys, paintings. W-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Su noon-5 pm. Admission $9, seniors $7, students/children $6, under 3 free. Free the first Thursday of month. www.mdhs.org. 201 W. Monument St., 410.685.3750 Map C3

HOMEWOOD MUSEUM— Built in 1801 on

a campus of Johns Hopkins University, the Palladian-style, Federal-period mansion was a wedding gift from Declaration signer Charles Carroll to his son. Tu-F 11 am-4 pm, Sa-Su from noon. Tours on the half hour, last at 3:30 p.m. $8, seniors $7, students/ children $5, under 5 free. www. museums.jhu.edu. 3400 N. Charles St., 410.516.5589 North of Map C1

MOUNT CLARE MUSEUM HOUSE—

IRISH RAILROAD WORKERS MUSEUM—

Visit this pair of 1848 row houses to learn about the Irish railroad workers who helped build the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad. One house re-creates the life of a family of eight (plus one boarder), while the other serves as a tribute to Baltimore’s Irish. Museum F-Sa 11 am-2 pm, Su 1-4 pm. Tours (by request) include Lemmon Street, St. 18

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A 1760s Georgian mansion, home of Charles Carroll and Maryland’s first house museum. Views of city skyline, 18th- and 19th-century family furnishings, silver, china, jewelry, portraits plus Mount Clare Library. Tours (final tour 3 pm). $8, seniors $7, children (ages 2-12) $6. Train ride from B&O Railroad Museum to Carroll Park ($3, children $2). www.mountclare.org. 1500 Washington Blvd., Carroll Park, 410.837.3262 East of Map A7

NATIONAL ELECTRONICS MUSEUM—

Approximately 10,000 artifacts celebrating science and engineering. Nike Ajax, radar, radios, vacuum tubes, manuscripts. Among the galleries: Cold War, Early Radar and Under Seas. “Starting where the last man left off: Edison and the Development of Electric Lighting,” a look at the genius inventor and his legacy in today’s power landscape, ongoing. M-F 9 am4 pm, Sa 10 am-2 pm. Admission $5, students/seniors $3, 5 and under free. www.nationalelectronicsmuseum. org. 1745 W. Nursery Road, Linthicum Heights, Md., 410.765.0230 NATIONAL GREAT BLACKS IN WAX MUSEUM— Tableaux of 100 figures:

civil rights leaders, athletes, African citizens, ministers, politicians and notables like Langston Hughes and Baltimorean Billie Holiday. Exhibits on slavery and the Middle Passage. Hours vary by season. Check website for most updated information. Admission $15, seniors/students $14, ages 3-11 $12, under 3 free. www.greatblacksinwax.org. 1601-03 E. North Ave., 410.563.3404 North of Map E1 REGINALD F. LEWIS MUSEUM— Docu-

ments the experiences and contributions of Maryland African Americans from the past to the present. Three galleries, a theater for shows and talks, oral history recording studio, classrooms and cafe. “Romare Bearden: Visionary Artist,” more than 70 works in a variety of media aimed at counteracting racial stereotypies, through March 3. W-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Su noon5 pm. Admission $8, seniors/children/ students $6, under 6 free. Gift shop. www.lewismuseum.org. 830 E. Pratt St., 443.263.1800 Map D6 THE STAR-SPANGLED BANNER FLAG HOUSE— Home of Mary Pickersgill,

who sewed the flag that inspired Francis Scott Key’s lyrics to “The StarSpangled Banner.” Period furniture, war artifacts and a glass replica of the banner. Discovery gallery for kids. Orientation film. Self-guided tours Tu-Sa 10 am-4 pm, docents available W, Th, Sa. Admission $9, seniors (55+)/ military $8, students $7, under 6 free. www.flaghouse.org. 844 E. Pratt St., 410.837.1793 Map D6

M U S E U M S + AT T R A C T I O N S Parks & Gardens CANTON WATERFRONT PARK— Estab-

lished in 1990, eight acres of green space with multi-use trails, harbor views, fishing pier, Water Taxi and Korean War Memorial listing the names of 527 Marylanders who died in that conflict. baltimore.org/info/cantonwaterfront-park. 3001 Boston St., 410.396.7931 South of Map H8 CYLBURN ARBORETUM— Businessman

Jesse Tyson’s 1863 mansion, now with a 207-acre park, 20 themed gardens, wooded trails. Visitor Center, Tu-Su 10 am-4 pm; Mansion, Tu-F 8 am3 pm; Grounds Tu-Su 8 am-8 pm. Self-guided or cell tours. Free. cylburn.org/. 4915 Greenspring Ave., 410.367.2217 North of Map B1 DRUID HILL PARK— On the National Reg-

Site available for private rentals, daily retreats and days of reflection. Catering available.

ister of Historic Places, the city’s first large, municipal park. Druid Hill Lake on grounds as well as the Howard Peters Rawlings Conservatory, the country’s second-oldest Victorian structure of its kind. Walking trails and athletic courts. www.druidhillpark.org. 900 Druid Park Lake Drive North of Map A1 PATTERSON PARK— One of the city’s old-

est parks began as a six-acre donation in 1827 and now spans 137 acres with lake, ice rink in winter, ball fields, pool and tennis courts. Victorian Pagoda, opens mid-April (noon-6 p.m.). www. pattersonpark.com. Eastern and Patterson Park aves. Map G5/6 RAWLINGS CONSERVATORY & BOTANIC GARDENS— In Druid Hill Park since

1888, a botanic complex that grew from a five-story glass, wood and steel Palm House to three greenhouses, two display pavilions and outdoor gardens. Orchids, flower shows. “Plants and People” program every Su (1:30-3:30 pm). W-Su 10 am-4 pm. $5 suggested donation. www.rawlings conservatory.org. 3100 Swann Drive, 410.396.0008 North of Map A1 WEST SHORE PARK—Waterfront green

space at the Inner Harbor for free public activities like yoga and picnics, plus holiday markets and summer socials. Interactive Walter Sondheim Fountain for kids. Near Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! and Maryland Science Center. www. baltimorewaterfront.com/west-shorepark. 401 Light St., 410.779.4700 Map C7

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THE GUIDE

Dining

Cosima Donna Crivello’s gorgeous spot inside an old mill has been drawing fans since the restauItem Head rant opened in 2016. And for 34 wds. Product Item Myriad good reason. From theText. arancini Pro SemiBold SemiExt 8/11pt to the fettuccini with grilled Dummy text goesevery here dummy lobster (pictured), dish text goessoulful here ipso callumn channels Italian cook-y wordsare here, Su noon use word ing. Mill No. 1, 3000 Falls Road, www.fjallraven.us. 304 Newbury 443.708.7352. St., 857.225.5683. Map 5, F5

salmon BLT. L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.boathousecanton.com. 2809 Boston St., 410.773.9795 $$$$$ South of Map G8

THE PRIME RIB— Steakhouse. Since

1965, elegant supper club for lobster, filet mignon, chops and Imperial crab. Business casual. Piano Su-Th, piano and bass F-Sa. Bar. Free valet. D (Daily). www. theprimerib.com. 1101 N. Calvert St., 410.539.1804 Map C2; 7002 Arundel Mills Circle, Hanover, Md., 443.445.2970 $$$$

Canton ALMA COCINA LATINA—Venezuelan. Pil-

lowy arepas, ossobuco, fried chicken, whole fried dorade. Deconstructed guava cheesecake, churro, cocktails. Live music Th. In the Can Company. D (M-Sa). www.almacocinalatina. com. 2400 Boston St., 667.212.4273 $$-$$$ Map G8 THE BOATHOUSE CANTON—American.

DELLA ROSE’S TAVERN— Pubs & Taverns. Known for its meatball sub and

pizza since 1944. Chicken parmesan, baked gnocchi, wings and burgers. L, D (Daily). www.dellarosestavern.com. 8153 A Honeygo Blvd., Nottingham, Md., 410.933.8861 FORK & WRENCH— American. Working

class digs for creative fare—fried oysters in chipotle red pepper coulis, cider-braised short ribs, duck confit melt. Cocktails, indoor courtyard. D (Daily), Br (Su). www.theforkandwrench. com. 2322 Boston St., 443.759.9360 $$-$$$ Map G7 GUNTHER & CO.—American. Chef

Harborfront spot with dog-friendly patio in good weather. Crab cakes, Maryland crab soup, rockfish, steaks,

Jerry Trice plating globally inspired ingredient-driven flat breads, artisanal cheeses, dumplings, hoisin-glazed rack of lamb, wood oven-roasted chicken,

tea-smoked duck breast in an airy bilevel loft with “garden wall.” Extensive wine list, beer, or cocktails. L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.eatatgunther. com. 3650 Toone St., 443.869.6874 $$$$$ East of Map H8 IRON ROOSTER—Southern. Modern

“barn” for all-day breakfast and comfort foods. Deviled eggs with lump crab meat, waffle burger with garlic aioli and pickle chips, “cakes on cakes” (crab cakes on pancakes), breakfast burrito with roasted pork shoulder. B, L, D (Daily). www.ironroosterallday. com. 3721 Boston St., 410.762.2100 $$ South of Map H8 MAMA’S ON THE HALF SHELL— Seafood.

Old World-style bistro for authentic Maryland crab soup, crab cakes, oyster stew. L, D (Daily), Br (Su). www.mamas onthehalfshell.com. 2901 O’Donnell St., 410.276.3160 $$ Map G8

ROLL ‘EM At La Scala (page 23) in Little Italy, diners dig into Italian classics while watching matches on the city’s only in-restaurant bocce court. 20

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Arundel Mills

DINING SIP & BITE— American. Since 1948,

diner serving egg sandwiches, chicken liver omelets, crab cakes, pork chops. Counter/booth seating. B, L, D (Daily, 24 hours except 5-7:30 am). www. sipandbite.com. 2200 Boston St., 410.675.7077 $

Charles Village CARMA’S CAFÉ— American. Light fare

like farmhouse salad with Granny Smith slices and feta, sandwiches, healthconscious desserts. B, L, D (Daily). www.carmascafe.com. 3120 St. Paul St., 410.243.5200. $ North of Map D1 GERTRUDE’S— American. Inside

Baltimore Museum of Art, celeb chef John Shields serving up Chesapeake crab cakes, burgers, seafood gumbo, steaks. Wide selection of cocktails and wines. Terrace in warmer months, live jazz Sundays. L (Tu-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.gertrudesbaltimore.com. 10 Art Museum Drive, 410.889.3399 $$$ North of Map A1 ONE WORLD CAFÉ— Vegetarian. Laid-

back fave for small plates, smoothies, plus gluten-free, vegan. B, L, D (Daily). 100 W. University Parkway 410.235.5777 $-$$ North of Map C3 R. HOUSE— International. Converted

auto body shop housing local culinary talent. Mediterranean street food, Korean BBQ, Hawaiian poke (raw marinated tuna salad). B, L, D (Daily). www.r.housebaltimore.com. 301 W. 29th St., Charles Village, 443.347.3570 $-$$ North of Map C1

Federal Hill ABBEY BURGER BISTRO— American.

Made-to-order from the patty (foie gras, veggie) to the toppings (chili mayo, peanut butter). L (Tu-Su), D (Daily). www.abbeyburgerbistro.com. 1041 Marshall St., 443.453.9698 $ Map C8 ENCANTADA—American. Whimsical res-

taurant inside the American Visionary Art Museum, with funky art (extensive Pez collection) greeting diners. Sending out vegetable-forward dishes, supported by GMO-free, sustainably raised meats (duck, wagyu) and complimented by inventive cocktails and eclectic wines. L, D (W-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). www.encantadabaltimore.com. 800 Key Highway, 410.752.1000 $$ Map D8

HOMESLYCE PIZZA BAR— Pizza. Popular

local chain serving up tasty pies in a sports bar-style pub. Classic flavors and custom pizzas, plus original options like steak, BBQ chicken and kale, with all pies available in vegan versions. Sandwiches, calzones, soups, salads. L, D (Daily). www.homeslyce. com. 1741 Light St., 443.501.4000 $$ South of Map C8; 336 N. Charles St., 443.501.4000 Map C4; 900 S. Kenwood Ave., 443.501.4000 Map G8 MOTHER’S FEDERAL HILL GRILLE— American. Local fave serving Kobe beef

sliders, Buffalo shrimp, chili, ribs, burgers. Pop Pop’s ice cream (housemade, as is 95 percent of the menu). Purple Patio for NFL Ravens and the 98 Rock post-game show. B (Sa-Su), L (M-F), D (Daily). www.mothersgrille.com. 1113 S. Charles St., 410.244.8686 $$ Map C8 THE OUTPOST AMERICAN TAVERN— American. “Top Chef” contestant

Jesse Sandlin serving comfort foods, some with twists: pot roast sammie, lamb leg steak. Wines, beers, cocktails. D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.theoutpost baltimore.com. 1032 Riverside Ave., 443.388.9113 $$ Map D8 RYLEIGH’S OYSTER— Pubs & Taverns.

Bivalves of course, but also crabs, mussels, calamari, lobster rolls, “heritage” soups, salads and burgers in nauticalthemed digs. L, D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.ryleighs.com. 36 E. Cross St., 410.539.2093 $$ Map C8 ROPEWALK TAVERN— Pubs. Pre-

Prohibition tavern on a site with colonial history serving steamed shrimp, burgers. Antique bar, 155 beers, pool table. Dueling pianos weekends. D (Daily), Br (F-Su). www.ropewalktavern.com. 1209 S. Charles St., 410.727.1298 $$ Map C8 SPOONS CAFE—American. On a brick-

lined street, breakfast all day: “O-Nuts” (Baltimore-style beignets), four kinds of Benedicts, cinnamon roll pancakes, housemade buttermilk biscuits. B, L (Daily). www.spoonsbaltimore.com. 24 E. Cross St., 410.539.8395. $$ Map D8

Fells Point ALEXANDER’S TAVERN— Pubs & Taverns. Two blocks from a Water Taxi

stop, an award-winner for wings, pizza, crab cakes, BBQ pulled pork, taters (five varieties). Two bars, six flat screens. L, D (M-F), Br (Sa-Su). www.alexanders

tavern.com. 710 S. Broadway, 410.522.0000 $-$$ Map F8 ANGIE’S SEAFOOD—Seafood. Casual

spot for steamed blues, crab cakes, “Angie’s Hot Combo,” certified Angus beef steaks, pasta, chicken. L, D (Daily). www.angiesseafood.com. 1727 Pratt St., 410.342.0917 $$$ Map F6 BERTHA’S—Seafood. Live jazz or blues

seven nights a week. Bar/restaurant with full menu. Specialties: mussels and pints of Berth’s Best Bitter. L, D (Daily). www.berthas.com. 734 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 410.327.5795 $$ Map E7 BLUE MOON CAFE— American. Popular

spot serving breakfast all day. Housemade cinnamon rolls, signature biscuits and gravy and Cap ’n Crunch French toast. B (Daily). www.bluemoon baltimore.com. 1621 Aliceanna St., 410.522.3940 $ Map E7; 1024 Light St., 443.759.4907 Map C8 CAPTAIN JAMES LANDING— Seafood.

Shaped like a merchant vessel and serving calamari, escargot, clams casino, French onion soup, crab cakes, lobster tails, steaks, chicken and sides. Deck and bar. Seasonal crab house for steamers. Restaurant: B, L, D (Daily). Crab house: L (Sa-Su), D (Daily). East on Fleet or Water Taxi No. 14. www. captainjameslanding.com. 2127 Boston St., 410.327.8600 $$$ Map 2 F7 EARTHSHAKE—American. Build-your-

own smoothie bowls, cold-pressed juices, smoothies. Add-ons like bee pollen, maca powder. B, L, D (Tu-Su). www.earthshakebaltimore.net. 600 S. Wolfe St., 410.276.0777 $ Map F7 EKIBEN—Asian. Fast-casual spot for

spins on tasty dishes like bowls with Thai chicken meatballs, Taiwanese curry fried chicken, steamed buns, char siu ribs. L, D (M-Sa, closed between 3:30-4:30 pm). www.ekibenbaltimore. com. 1622 Eastern Ave., 410.558.1914 $ Map E6 HANDLEBAR CAFE—American. X Games

champ Marla Streb’s inventive cafe meets bicycle shop in a renovated warehouse. Wood-fired pizzas, salads, sandwiches, breakfast and Vigilante coffee. Bike repair and retail. B, L (Daily), D (Tu-Su). Shop: Tu-F 10 am-7 pm, Sa-Su till 6 pm. www.handlebarcafe.com. 511 S. Caroline St., 443.438.7065 $$ Map E7

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THE GUIDE HENNINGER’S TAVERN— American.

Charming spot with bites at the bar, upscale fare in the dining room. Crab cakes, soups, vegetarian curry, roast Cornish hen, filet mignon. D (Tu-Sa). www.henningerstavern.com. 1812 Bank St. 410.342.2172 $$$ Map F7 LIQUID EARTH— Vegetarian. Local veg-

ans rate this a favorite for sandwiches, fresh-squeezed juices, sweets. Call for hours. www.liquidearth.com. 1626 Aliceanna St., 410.276.6606 $$ Map E7

Hampden BIRROTECA— Italian. In an 1883 struc-

ture, family-style trattoria for bruschetta, pastas, salumi, artisan pizza. Craft cocktails, wines, craft beers. D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.bmorebirroteca.com. 1520 Clipper Road, 443.708.1934 $$ DYLAN’S OYSTER CELLAR—Seafood.

Dylan Salmon serving “oysters & booze.” Crab imperial and “coddies,” salads (kale, roast beef). D (Tu-Su). www.dylansoyster.com. 3601 Chestnut Ave., 443.759.6595 $$$$$ North of Map B1

PIERPOINT RESTAURANT— American.

Maryland- and Italian-accented dishes by celeb chef Nancy Longo. Smoked crab cakes, tenderloin and oysters plus crème brûlée trio. Bar. D (Tu-Su), Br (by reservation on major holidays). www. pierpointrestaurant.com. 1822 Aliceanna St., 410.675.2080 $$$ Map F7

THE FOOD MARKET— American.

Industrial-chic space for chef Chad Gauss’ fried oysters, lobster fingers, wagyu rib-eye, truffle fries. D (Daily), Br (F-Su). www.thefoodmarketbaltimore. com. 1017 W. 36th St., 410.366.0606 $$-$$$ North of Map A1

POINTS SOUTH— Latin. Spicy Peruvian

shrimp, gazpacho, pupusas and small plates. Handcrafted cocktails are locally sourced. L (M-F), D (M-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). www.pointssouthbaltimore.com. 1640 Thames St., 443.563.2018 $$$ Map E7

GOLDEN WEST CAFÉ— Southwestern.

Cell-phone-free spot for fajitas, quesadillas, skirt steak, tilapia tacos plus burgers, veggie riblets. Late-night bar. Breakfast and kids menu all day. L, D (M-F), Br (Sa-M). www.goldenwestcafe. com. 1105 W. 36th St., 410.889.8891 $-$$

REC PIER CHOPHOUSE— Italian. In Saga-

more Pendry hotel, James Beard Award winner Andrew Carmellini’s chops and steaks, pasta, seafood, roasted chicken. Wines (Italian, West Coast), cocktails, bourbon/rye, tequila/mezcal. B, D (Daily), L (M-F), Br (Sa-Su). www. recpierchophouse.com. 1715 Thames St., 443.552.1300 $$$-$$$$ Map F8

LA CUCHARA— Basque. In former

London Fog factory, pintxos like jamón croquettes, plus tapas (shishito peppers and heirloom tomatoes). Entrees cooked over a wood grill. Basque-style desserts. Craft cocktails. D (Daily). www.lacucharabaltimore.com. 3600 Clipper Mill Road, 443.708.3838. $-$$$ North of Map B1

RIPTIDE BY THE BAY— Seafood. Peel-

and-eat shrimp, blue crabs, oysters and clams, outdoor breezeway dining. Daily specials. Pets welcome. Live music schedule. Boat dock. L, D (Daily). www. riptidebythebay.net. 1718 Thames St., 410.732.3474 $$$ Map F7

PAPER MOON DINER— American. Classic

diner fare served in an eye-poppingly eccentric environment. Creative milkshakes—bacon or Kaptain Krunch. Sandwiches, specialty pancakes. B, L, D (Daily). www.papermoondiner24.com. 227 W. 29th St., 410.889.4444 $

SLÁINTE IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT— Irish. “Sláinte” is Gaelic for good health

and prosperity. Guinness onion soup, bangers and mash, corned beef and cabbage. TVs for sports. Live music, trivia weekends. B, L, D (Daily). www. slaintepub.com. 1700 Thames St., 410.563.6600 $$ Map E8 STUGGY’S— Hot Dogs. Father-son

team carryout for old-fashioned and inventive hot dogs, sausages and soda floats, veggie options. L (W), D (W-Sa). www.stuggys.com. 809 S. Broadway, 410.327.0228 $ Map F7

UNION COLLECTIVE— International.

Union Craft Brewing’s communal space for local entrepreneurs producing Baltimore-made gourmet foods. Call for hours. www.union-collective.com. 1700 W. 41st St., 410.539.7344 $-$$$ WICKED SISTERS TAVERN—American.

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Cozy tavern for brisket or turkey burgers, Korean BBQ salmon, crab cakes, inventive appetizers. Two bars for craft cocktails, beers, wine, “liquid desserts.” L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.wickedsistershampden.com.

3845 Falls Road, 410.878.0884 $$$$$ North of Map A1 WOODBERRY KITCHEN— American.

James Beard Award winner chef Spike Gjerde serving farm-fresh regional dishes in a cozy-rustic setting. Deviled eggs, spicy pork and rigatoni, Chesapeake oysters. Mezzanine level. D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.woodberry kitchen.com. 2010 Clipper Park Road, 410.464.8000 $$$

Harbor East AZUMI—Japanese Fusion. Waterfront

spot for modern takes on Japanese seafood and steak, plus sushi menu with fish flown in from Tokyo. Claims one of the largest sake and Japanese whiskey programs in the region. L (M-Sa), D (Daily). www.azumirestaurant. com. 725 Aliceanna St., 443.220.0477. $$$ Map D7 BAR VASQUEZ— Argentinian. James

Beard finalist Cindy Wolf’s two-story space with, lounge and dining room. Grilled meats, empanadas, seafood and housemade pasta. Live Latin music nightly, whiskey bar. D (M-Sa). www. barvasquez.com. 1425 Aliceanna St., 410.534.7296 $$$-$$$$ Map E7 CHARLESTON— American. James Beard

Award-finalist Cindy Wolf’s cornmealfried oysters, smoked salmon—in three to six courses. Check website for prices. Acclaimed sommelier Tony Foreman. Reservations recommended. D (M-Sa). www.charlestonrestaurant. com. 1000 Lancaster St., Sylvan Bldg., 410.332.7373 $$$$ Map E8 CINGHIALE— Italian. James Beard

Award-nominated Cindy Wolf and lauded wine director Tony Foreman’s enoteca/osteria on the harbor for fare of Northern and Central Italy. A la carte or four courses. D (Daily). www.cgeno. com. 822 Lancaster St., 410.547.8282 $$$$ Map E8 OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM— Seafood. Expansive dining spaces with

daily fresh-catches, often featuring live Maine lobster, plus escargot, steaks. Raw bar. Award-winning chowder. Extensive wine list. D (M-Su) www. theoceanaire.com. 801 Aliceanna St., 443.872.0000 $$$ Map E7 OUZO BAY— Greek. Global fresh catches,

spanakopita, charcoal-grilled calamari, moussaka plus whole fish and chops. Excellent handcrafted cocktails, ouzos.

DINING L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www. ouzobay.com. 1000 Lancaster St., 443.708.5818 $$$-$$$$ Map E7 ROY’S— Hawaiian Fusion. James Beard

Award-winner Yamaguchi’s restaurants serving up Pacific Rim dishes made with classic techniques. Frequently changing menu allowing a mix of seasonal favorites and new creations. Bar with signature mai tai, plus long list of favorites and wines. M-Sa “Aloha Hour” pouring signature cocktails with sushi and bar bites. L, D (Daily). www. roysrestaurant.com. 720-B Aliceanna St., 410.659.0099 $$$-$$$$ Map D7 TAGLIATA— Italian. Glam chophouse

channeling a Tuscan farm. Handmade pastas, hand-cut chops, seafood, charcuterie. Extensive wine list. Patio with live piano nightly. L, D (Daily). www. tagliatarestaurant.com. 1012 Fleet St., 410.244.5830 $$$-$$$$ Map E7 WIT AND WISDOM— American. Michael

Mina’s “modern tavern” for baked artichoke casserole, coconut-lobster soup, Bourbon Steak burger, Maine lobster pot pie. Harbor views. Tasting menu. B, D (Daily), L (M-F), Br (Sa-Su). www. witandwisdombaltimore.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 200 International Drive, 410.576.5800 $$$-$$$$ Map D7

Inner Harbor/ Downtown B&O AMERICAN BRASSERIE— American.

Historic Beaux Arts structure serving dishes made from local ingredients that change with the season. Extensive wine list. B, L, D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www. bandorestaurant.com. 2 N. Charles St., 443.692.6172 $$$ Map C5 FOGO DE CHAO— Brazilian. A “churras-

caria” with gaucho chefs dishing up unlimited servings of slow-roast beef, pork, chicken. Lunch $37.95, dinner $53.95, brunch $40.95. Kids 7-12 halfprice, 6 and under free. Market Table with salads, soups, charcuterie. Caipirinhas, wines of the hemisphere. Valet pm ($12). L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.fogodechao.com. 600 E. Pratt St., 410.528.9292. $$$ Map D6 IDA B.’S TABLE—Soul Food. In historic

building, ode to pioneering AfricanAmerican journalist. Kale and sweet potato salad, berbere-spiced barbecue chicken, gumbo, black-eyed pea hummus. Charcuterie, curried wings.

L (Tu-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www. idabstable.com. 235 Holliday St., 410.844.0444 $$$ Map D5 KONA GRILL— American. Contemporary

digs for macadamia nut chicken, misomarinated sea bass, dry-aged steaks, pastas, sushi. Happy hour, bar. L, D, (Daily). www.konagrill.com. 1 E. Pratt St., 410.244.8994 $$$ Map C6 M&S GRILL— American. From patio,

views of the USS Constellation; in clubby dining room, seafood, aged steaks, crab cakes, rich sides. Good wines, bar. L, D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www. mccormickandschmicks.com. 201 E. Pratt St., 410.547.9333 $$ Map D6 MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S— Seafood.

Daily catches from Pacific Northwest (Alaskan salmon, Pacific swordfish) and East Coast (Maine lobster bisque, Maryland-style crab soup). Patio by lighthouse. L, D (Daily). www.mc cormickandschmicks.com. 711 Eastern Ave., adjacent to Pier 5, 410.234.1300 $$ Map D7 MISS SHIRLEY’S CAFE— Southern.

Named for a late, sassy, influential cook. Fried green tomatoes, crab cake Benedict, griddle cakes, omelets, po’boys. B, L, Br (Daily). www.missshirleys.com. 750 E. Pratt St., 410.528.5373 $$ Map D6; 513 W. Cold Spring Lane, 410.889.5272; One Park Place, Annapolis, Md., 410.268.5171 MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE— Steakhouse. Where power-lunchers

dig into porterhouse, New York strip, filet mignon, lobster in handsome surrounds. Cocktails, bar, sommelier. D (Daily). www.mortons.com. 300 S. Charles St., 410.547.8255 $$$$ Map C7 PHILLIPS SEAFOOD— Seafood. In the

Power Plant, Eastern shore favorites plus mahi mahi, lobster since 1956. Sandwiches, steak, chicken. Kids’ menu. Waterfront view, crab deck and live music. Shipping. L, D (Daily). www. phillipsseafood.com. 601 E. Pratt St., 410.685.6600 $$$ Map D6; Maryland Live Casino, 7002 Arundel Mills Circle, Hanover, Md., 443.842.7000 RUSTY SCUPPER— Seafood. Fresh fish

and shellfish, aged steaks and chops, pasta, salads. Harbor view from rooftop deck and promenade. Water taxi stop No. 4.. L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Su). www. rusty-scupper.com. 402 Key Highway, 410.727.3678 $$$ Map D7

TIR NA NOG— Irish. Pub at the harbor

with furnishings from Ireland. Guinness fish and chips, corned beef and cabbage, plus burgers, crab cakes, salads. L, D (Daily). www.tirnanogbaltimore. com. 201 E. Pratt St., 410.483.8968 $$ Map D6 UNO PIZZERIA & GRILL— American. At

Harborplace, deep-dish and thin-crust pizza, plus American classics. Sundaes and specials. Gluten-free menu. Kids’ menu with make-your-own pizza. Also Ellicott City. L, D (Daily). www.unos. com. 201 E. Pratt St., 410.625.5900 $$ Map D6

Little Italy CHIAPPARELLI’S— Italian. Since 1940,

a beloved spot with rustic brick walls, white tablecloths. Generous pastas ($$), veal, famous salad, mussels in white wine, crab cake Castillo. Wines. L, D (Daily). www.chiapparellis.com. 237 S. High St., 410.837.0309 $$$ Map E6 HEAVY SEAS ALEHOUSE— Pubs & Taverns. Former Confederate hospital

and tack factory, now beer lover’s haven with bold “victuals” to match the namesake drafts and other ales. Raw bar, wines, rum and “pirate” cocktails. D (Daily) www.heavyseasalehouse.com. 1300 Bank St., 410.522.0850 $$$ Map E6 JOE BENNY’S— Italian. Joseph Gardella’s

downhome spot for small plates of popular meatballs and focaccia pizza. D (Tu-Sa). www.joebennys.com. 313 South High St., 443.835.4866 $$ Map E6 LA SCALA— Italian. Chef-owner Nino

Germano’s shellfish, veal, steaks, 17 housemade pastas ($$). Indoor bocce court (at happy hours Su-F), wine tasting room and terrace. Valet daily. D (Daily). www.lascaladining.com. 1012 Eastern Ave., 410.783.9209 $$ Map E6 LA TAVOLA— Italian. Fresh pasta, veal,

seafood. Voted best Italian by City Paper. L (M-Sa), D (Daily). www.la-tavola. com. 248 Albemarle St., 410.685.1859 $$ Map D6 MO’S INNER HARBOR— Seafood. Part of

chef Mo Manocheh’s empire with own wholesale market/carryout. Jumbo lump crab cake, steamed crabs, lobster, spiced shrimp, chicken parmesan, Cajun combo, steaks. L, D (Daily). Multiple locations. www.mosseafood. com. 219 S. President St., 410.837.8600 $$-$$$ Map D6

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THE GUIDE

DINING

Locust Point/ South Baltimore

THE LAND OF KUSH—Vegan. Salads,

wraps, lentil burgers, vegan crab cakes, donuts, pineapple upside down cake, smoothies, juices. L (M-Sa), D (Daily), Br (Su). www.landofkush.com. 840 N. Eutaw St., 410.225.5874 $ Map B3

BARRACUDAS TAVERN— American.

Sports bar and family restaurant with multiple flat-screen, high-definition TVs. Crab cakes, pasta, pizza. L, D (Daily). www.barracudalpt.com. 1230 E. Fort Ave., 410.685.2832

MAGDALENA—American. Inside The

Ivy Hotel, haute cuisine by chef Mark Levy. Stone bass with smoked butter, seared War Shore scallops. Local and boutique wines. Free valet. D (Tu-Sa), Br (Su). www.theivybaltimore.com. 205 E. Biddle St., 410.514.0303 $$$$ Map D2

HERSH’S— Italian. Wood-fired pizza,

small plates, house-made sausages, pastas, craft beers, craft cocktails. Patio. D (W-M). www.hershspizza. com. 1843-45 Light St., 443.438.4948 $$ South of Map D8

SOTTO SOPRA— Italian. Lovely for

housemade pasta, bresaola, seafood cioppino. Opera dinners one Sunday a month, wine tastings. L (M-Sa), D (Daily). www.sottosoprainc.com. 405 N. Charles St., 410.625.0534 $$$ Map C4

L.P. STEAMERS— Seafood. Popular spot

with rooftop deck for steamed or fried seafood, burgers, soups, salads. L, D (Daily). www.locustpointsteamers. com. 1100 E. Fort Ave., 410.576.9294 $$ South of Map C3

TIO PEPE— Spanish. Since 1968, softly lit,

subterranean, white-wall bistro known for its sangria, paella and zarzuela. L (M-F), D (Daily). www.tiopepe.us. 10 E. Franklin St., 410.539.4675 $$$ Map C4

MINNOW—Seafood. From the folks be-

hind La Cuchara, lively spot for grilled seafood, softshell crab, charcuterie. Mediterranean-focused wines. Bottomless tapas brunch. Free valet. D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.minnowbaltimore.com. 2 E. Wells St., 443.759.6537 $$-$$$

Mount Washington ETHEL’S CREOLE KITCHEN— Cajun/ Creole. Baltimore’s slice of the bayou

serves up spicy gumbo, red beans and rice, jambalaya and blackened fish. Consider a po’boy sandwich for lunch. L, D (Tu-Su). www.ethelscreole kitchen.com. 1615 Sulgrave Ave., 410.664.2971. $$

RYE STREET TAVERN—American.

Andrew Carmellini’s waterfront venture for oysters on the half shell, wood-fired seafood bakes, famous fried chicken. Cocktails, rye whiskeys. L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.ryestreettavern. com. 13 Rye St., 443.662.8000 $$$$$ South of Map D8

HAUTE DOG CARTE— Hot Dogs. “Fabu-

lous franks” in all weather outside the Bonjour Bakery Cafe. Spicy Italian dog with Dijon, signature black angus dog with bacon and onion marmalade and daily chef specials (all $5). L (W-Su). www.hautedogcarte.com. 6070 Falls Road, 410.608.3500

Mount Vernon BREWER’S ART— American. Innovative

fare and housemade Belgian-style ales in turn-of-the-century mansion. Seasonal dishes. D (Daily). www. thebrewersart.com. 1106 N. Charles St., 410.547.6925 $$ Map C2

LE BISTRO DU VILLAGE— French.

Formerly Crepe du Jour, now casual restaurant for French classics. Seafood vol-au-vent, escargots, French onion soup, three types of mussel dishes, coq au vin, boeuf Bourgignon. Plus, crepes savory and sweet. L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.lebistroduvillage.com. 1609 Sulgrave Ave., 410.542.9000. $$

DUKEM— Ethiopian. Colorful platters of

tastes to scoop up with injera bread (no forks). Veggies, kitfo, tibs, wots. Often live entertainment, coffee ceremony. Ethiopian wine and beers. L, D (Daily). www.dukemrestaurant.com. 1100 Maryland Ave., 410.385.0318 $$ Map C2 THE HELMAND— Afghan. Since 1989,

owned by the brother of the president of Afghanistan, elegant surroundings for traditional callow, kabobs, lamb veggie dishes. Tea service. D (Daily). www.helmand.com. 806 N. Charles St., 410.752.0311 $$ Map C3

MT. WASHINGTON TAVERN— American. Since 1979, light fare plus salmon

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latkes, oysters, crab wontons, burgers, steaks, chicken piccata. Bay murals, equine art, vintage maps plus shuffleboard table. Wines and beers. L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). Bar till late.

www.mtwashingtontavern.com. 5700 Newbury St., 410.367.6903 $$$

Station North BOTTEGA— Italian. Simple, Tuscan-style

fare: octopus salad, roast chicken, housemade pastas, salted chocolate caramel pie. BYOB. Reservations recommended. D (Daily). www.bottega 1729.com. 1709 N. Charles St., 443.835.2945 $$$ North of Map C1 IBAR— Pubs & Taverns. The “i” is for

Internet. Buffalo wings, burgers plus calamari, sides, pastas, steak, meatloaf, ribs. Full bar, free Wi-Fi. L (M-Sa), D (Daily). www.ibarbaltimore. com/. 2118 Maryland Ave., 443.759.6147 $-$$ North of Map C1 JOE SQUARED— Italian. Coal-fired

pizzas, sandwiches risottos and drafts on tap. Weekly specials. Nightly live music. L, D (Tu-Su). www.joesquared. com. 33 W. North Ave., 410.545.0444 $$ North of Map C1 PEN & QUILL—American. Eclectic spot

near Charles Theatre serving dishes to match: flank steak flatbreads, Cuban sandwich, brownie sundae. D (M-Sa). www.penandquill.net. 1701 N. Charles St., 410.601.3588 $$$ North of Map C1 TAPAS TEATRO— Spanish. Lamb

meatballs, mussels, littleneck clams. Spanish, South American wines and sangria. By Charles Theatre. D (Tu-Su). www.tapasteatro.com. 1711 N. Charles St., 410.332.0110 $$ North of Map C1

Westside FAIDLEY SEAFOOD— Seafood. Family-

owned since 1886, where locals order famous lump crab cakes in colorful Lexington Market. Market hours. www. faidleyscrabcakes.com. 200 N. Paca St., 410.727.4898 $$ Map B5 LUNA DEL SEA— Seafood. In a casual,

muraled space near Camden Yards and Convention Center, classic Maryland seafood (fresh catches, stuffed shrimp) with pastas, steaks and combos. Large patio. Bar menu. L (M-F), D (Daily), Br (Sa-Su). www.lunadelsea.com. 300 W. Pratt St., 410.752.8383 $$$ Map C6 ZELLA’S PIZZERIA— Pizza. Sicilian pies

with dozens of toppings. Also sandwiches and salads. L, D (Daily). www. zellaspizzeria.com. 1145 Hollins St., 410.685.6999 $$ Map A6

GUIDE

Entertainment

Joseph Meyerhoff Symphony Hall

(FROM LEFT) COURTESY JOSEPH MEYERHOFF SYMPHONY HALL; ©AFRICA STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK

This Mount Vernon landmark is home to the renowned Baltimore Symphony Orchestra, led by the incomparable Marin Alsop. But the concert venue also hosts world-class touring

Skydiving IFLY BALTIMORE—Simulated free fall

experiences at an indoor facility, where flyers suit up, enter the flight chamber and float on air. Open daily. From $69.95. www.iflyworld.com. 8209 Town Center Drive, Nottingham, Md., 667.888.4359

Bars & Nightclubs THE BLUEBIRD COCKTAIL ROOM—

Dimly lit, swanky bar located above a Belgian beer hall just off “The Ave.” Handcrafted cocktails from classics to modern mixtures, some inspired by literature. Bar bites (lamb meatballs, Ahi tuna tartare cornets), dinner menu (seared scallops, grilled lamb chops). Open daily. www.thebluebirdbaltimore. com. 3602 Hickory Ave., Hampden, 667.303.3263 North of Map B1

Grand Cru companies and performances. The venue’s unique architecture means no flat walls or 90-degree angles, ensuring there isn’t a bad seat in the house. www. bsomusic.org. 1212 Cathedral St., 410.783.8000. Map C2

Inside Belvedere Square Market, this wine bar offers a laid-back perch for sipping top varietals, making it a favorite with locals time and again. www.grandcru baltimore.com. 527 E. Belvedere Ave., 667.212.4847.

THE BREWER’S ART— Housemade

THE ELK ROOM— Dimly lit, handsome

Belgian-style ales served in an opulent turn-of-the-century mansion. Also international beers, wines and whiskies plus a full menu of seasonal fare. Open daily. www.thebrewersart.com. 1106 N. Charles St., Mount Vernon, 410.547.6925 Map C2 CAT’S EYE PUB— Friendly Irish watering

hole with 32 beers on tap (including locally brewed Resurrection Ale and Heavy Seas Loose Cannon), more in bottles and a full bar. Live music nightly. No surprise it’s packed on St. Patrick’s Day. Open daily. www. catseyepub.com. 1730 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.276.9866 Map F7 CLUB CHARLES— Art deco decor

and bohemian vibe. A John Waters favorite near The Charles Theatre. Open daily. www.clubcharles.us. 1724 N. Charles St., Station North, 410.727.8815 North of Map C1

speakeasy for expertly mixed libations, paired with a menu that riffs on popular bar food (think elk tacos, wild boar nachos). Courtyard shared with neighboring Tagliata restaurant. Open daily. www.theelkroom.com. 1010 Fleet St., 410.244.5830 Map E7 HEAVY SEAS ALEHOUSE— Locally owned

microbrewery in a former Confederate hospital and tack factory. Drafts and bottles range from IPAs to oyster stout plus seasonal specials. Growlers to go. Also full restaurant with raw bar, sandwiches, seafood. Open daily. www. heavyseasalehouse.com. 1300 Bank St., Little Italy, 410.522.0850 Map E6 THE HORSE YOU CAME IN ON— Historic

waterfront institution (in operation since 1775) counting Edgar Allan Poe among former patrons (also last place Poe visited before his death, according to legend). Live, straightforward rock ’n’ roll cover bands every night.

NATIVE GOTH Baltimore’s John Astin played Gomez Addams in the 1960s TV show and now teaches acting at Johns Hopkins University. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m

THE GUIDE Bonus: free peanuts and popcorn. Open daily. www.thehorsebaltimore. com. 1626 Thames St., Fells Point, 410.327.8111 Map E8

THE OWL BAR— Dark wood, cozy corners

and a friendly bar staff that serves yards of beer and brick-fired pizzas. Dates to pre-Prohibition when it was an F. Scott Fitzgerald hangout. Open daily till late. www.theowlbar.com. Inside the Belvedere Hotel, One E. Chase St., Mount Vernon, 410.347.0888 Map C2

LOCH BAR— Connected to the Four

Seasons Hotel, posh venue specializing in seafood and whiskey. Caviar, shellfish tower, raw bar, hundreds of whiskies from America, France, Japan and Scotland. Patio with harbor views. Live music daily. Open daily. www.lochbar baltimore.com. 240 International Drive, Harbor East, 443.961.8949 Map E7

PRATT STREET ALE HOUSE— Brewpub

with more than 20 taps, Oliver ales, full menu and high-definition TVs. Near Convention Center and Camden Yards. Open daily. www.prattstreetalehouse. com. 206 W. Pratt St., Downtown, 410.244.8900 Map C6

MAX’S TAPHOUSE— Beer mecca at-

tracting a raucous crowd with 102 brews and five casks on tap, plus 1,200 bottled beers. Pool tables, chill lounge. Themed happy hours weekdays. Open daily. www.maxs.com. 737 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 410.675.6297 Map F7

WC HARLAN— In a cozy Remington

row house with no sign (just a door that says “Enter”), a speakeasystyle drinking den with handcrafted cocktails served in antique glassware. Open M-Sa. www.facebook.com/ pg/WC-Harlan-400230510066048. 400 W. 23rd St., Remington, 410.925.7900. North of Map C1

MOSAIC LOUNGE— Drawing a fashion-

able crowd for martinis and steady music. Décor featuring mirror balls and mood lighting. Open F-Su (Th season permitting). www.mosaic-baltimore. com. Four Market Place, Downtown/Inner Harbor, 443.468.5308 Map D5

WHARF RAT— Oliver Brewery ales, stouts

and porters on tap to pair with sandwiches, crab cakes, chicken tenders and other pub food. Open daily. www. thewharfrat.com. 801 S. Ann St., Fells Point, 410.276.8304 Map F7

MUSTANG ALLEY’S— In a stylin’ space,

12 lanes of bowling with four reserved for duckpin bowling (a favorite native pastime). Lengthy cocktail list, full menu. Pay by the hour. Open Tu-Su. www.mustangalleys.com. 1300 Bank St., second floor, Little Italy, 410.522.2695 Map E6

ZISSIMOS— Legendary spot since 1930

when owners Eva and Atha let their nephew Lou Costello tap-dance on the bar. Today, a beloved no-frills institution and favorite of filmmaker John Waters for beer, wine, cocktails and games on TV. Upstairs Zissimos’ apartmentturned-stage for local bands, comedians. Open daily. www.facebook.com/ zissimosbar. 1023 W. 36th St., Hampden, 410.467.4707 North of Map A1

MYTH AND MOONSHINE— With modern

“hooch,” toasting the rebellious spirit of early distillers. Seventy varieties like Firefly White Lightning and Midnight Moon Cherry solo or in cocktails. Open daily. www.mythandmoon shine.com. 2300 Boston St., Canton, 410.777.5502 Map G7 OF LOVE AND REGRET— From the brewer

Concert Venues THE 8X10— Venue for live music running

the gamut with bluegrass, EDM, jam, rock, alternative, hip-hop, funk and more. Live acts nightly. Ages 18 and up. Doors usually open at 8 pm. Splintered Sunlight Nov. 3; Chris Wilcox, The Pips, Little Stranger Nov. 23; Whose Hat Is This? with members of Tedeschi Trucks Band, Rachel Ann Morgan Band Dec. 19. www.the8x10. com. 10 E. Cross St., Federal Hill, 410.625.2000 Map C8

of Stillwater Ales, a cheery pub with 20-plus draft beers plus small plates, entrees and gourmet burgers. Upstairs lounge with cocktails on tap. Open daily. 1028 S. Conkling St., Canton, 410.327.0760 East of Map H8 ONE-EYED MIKE’S— At a handcarved

1860s bar, friendly staff serving wine by the glass and bottle plus cocktails and beer. World’s first Grand Marnier club. Also full menu of pub fare (chili, crab soup, sandwiches, lobster). Open daily. www.oneeyedmikes.com. 708 S. Bond St., Fells Point, 410.327.0445 Map E8

BALTIMORE SOUNDSTAGE— An eclectic

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

venue hosting everything from heavy metal to spoken word. The Oh Hellos Nov. 1; Gwar Nov. 9; Kindred the Fam-

ily Soul Nov. 24; Digable Planets Nov. 29; Big Daddy Kane Dec. 6; Celeste Barber Dec. 13; A John Waters Christmas Dec. 19. www.baltimore soundstage.com. 124 Market Place, Inner Harbor, 410.244.0057 Map D6 JOSEPH MEYERHOFF SYMPHONY HALL— Home of the Baltimore Sym-

phony Orchestra, also hosting touring performers. Unique architecture with no flat walls or 90-degree angles. Symphony Space-tacular: Star Wars and Beyond! Nov. 1-3; Movie with Orchestra: “The Nightmare Before Christmas” Nov. 2-3; Chris Botti Nov. 23-25; Violinist Joshua Bell Nov. 30-Dec. 2; A Swingin’ Nutcracker! Dec. 7-8; Handel Messiah Dec. 8-9; Cirque Nutcracker Dec. 13-16; Gospel Christmas with CeCe Winans Dec. 21; Holiday Pops Dec. 22; Turangalila-Symphonie Jan. 1013. www.bsomusic.org. 1212 Cathedral St., Mount Vernon, 410.783.8000 Map C2 MODELL PERFORMING ARTS CENTER AT THE LYRIC— Opened in 1894 as a

music hall, now a 2,564-seat theater in Mount Royal and on the National Register of Historic Places. Kansas Nov. 24; The Beach Boys Dec. 2; A Charlie Brown Christmas Live on Stage Dec. 9. www.lyricoperahouse. com. 140 W. Mount Royal Ave., Mount Vernon, 410.900.1150 Map C1 OTTOBAR— Gritty rock bar with sports

on TV. Live acts from hard-core punk and alt-rock to acoustic and rockabilly. Clan of Xymox Nov. 1; The Schizophonics Nov. 8; Wume Nov. 16; Dog Fashion Disco Dec. 1; Mewithoutyou Dec. 4; The Reverend Peyton’s Big Damn Band Dec. 8; An Evening with The Feelies Dec. 30. www.theottobar.com. 2549 N. Howard St., Charles Village, 410.662.0069 North of Map C1 POWER PLANT LIVE!— Entertainment

complex near the Inner Harbor with more than 15 restaurants, bars and concert venues plus an art gallery. Options range from the sophisticated Mosaic Lounge to the rock ‘n’ roll scene at Angels and late-night tunes at Tin Roof. NYE Live! 2019 Dec. 31. www. powerplantlive.com. 34 Market Place, Inner Harbor 410.727.5483 Map D5 RAMS HEAD LIVE!— In Power Plant Live!,

top touring acts, emerging artists, tribute bands and local favorites. Most shows standing room only; all ages. Guster Nov. 2; Hoobastank Nov. 14; Death From Above 1979 Nov. 20;

E N T E R TA I N M E N T Pigeons Playing Ping Pong Nov. 23-24; The Kooks Nov. 30; Jorja Smith Dec. 12. www.ramsheadlive.com. 20 Market Place, Downtown, 410.244.8854 Box office: 410.244.1131 Map D5 ROYAL FARMS ARENA— Home of the Bal-

timore Blast soccer team and Baltimore Brigade Arena League Football team, a sports and entertainment venue also attracting pop music headliners and touring acts. Chris Stapleton Nov. 4; Travis Scott Nov. 8; Lynyrd Skynyrd Nov. 16; Chris Young Dec. 6; Martin Lawrence Dec. 31; The Impractical Jokers Jan. 17. www.royalfarmsarena. com. 201 W. Baltimore St., Downtown, 410.347.2020 Map C6

Distillery SAGAMORE SPIRIT DISTILLERY— Part

of Under Armour CEO Kevin Plank’s huge redevelopment project in Port Covington, a complex featuring the whiskey-making operation and two tasting rooms. Tours daily. $15, youth (ages 10-20) $8, children under 10 free. www.sagamorespirit.com. 301 E. Cromwell St., Port Covington, 410.624.7488. South of Map D8

Recreation CHARM CITY CLUE ROOM— In Power

Plant Live!, locked rooms, each with a Baltimore-based theme, filled with challenging tasks and puzzles that teams must complete in 60 minutes to “escape.” Choose from the B&O Railroad, spies or Edgar Allan Poe (the most difficult, of course). $29 per person. Open daily. www.charmcity clueroom.com. Six Market Place, Inner Harbor, 443.970.6678 Map D5

Sports BALTIMORE RAVENS— Named for the

famous poem by one-time local Edgar Allan Poe, Baltimore’s NFL team (and Super Bowl XLVII champ) playing at M&T Bank Stadium. Pittsburgh Steelers Nov. 4; Cincinnati Bengals Nov. 18; Oakland Raiders Nov. 25; Tampa Bay Buccaners Dec. 16; Cleveland Browns Dec. 30. www.baltimoreravens. com. 1101 Russell St., Downtown, 410.261.7283 Map B8

Sports Bars GREENE TURTLE— Flat screens in every

booth bring new meaning to dinner in front of the TV. Hearty pub food (burgers, wings). Open daily. www.greene turtle.com. 718-722 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 410.342.4222 Map E7 LOONEY’S PUB— One of the anchors

of O’Donnell Square, a casual, twostory corner pub. More than 70 TVs broadcast sports. Open daily. www. looneyspubmd.com. 2900 O’Donnell St., Canton, 410.675.9235 Map G8 PICKLES PUB— Grub and pints (steamed

shrimp with Old Bay-marinated grilled onions, Maryland crab soup, fried pickles in beer batter, of course). Open daily. www.picklespub.com. 520 Washington Blvd., Downtown, 410.752.1784 Map B6

Theater BALTIMORE CENTER STAGE— Classic

and new productions at Maryland’s state theater. Cafe and bar. “King of the Yees,” playwright Lauren Yee’s humorous tale of family and the legacy of a changing Chinatown, through Nov. 18; “A Wonder in My Soul,” best friends and longtime co-owners of a Baltimore beauty salon grapple with the decision to stay in their beloved neighborhood or move, Nov. 29-Dec. 23; “Fun Home,” the true story of a young girl’s coming out and her family’s secrets set to music, Jan. 17-24. www.centerstage. org. 700 N. Calvert St., Mount Vernon, 410.332.0033 Map C3 BALTIMORE THEATRE PROJECT— Lovers

of stagecraft head here for original works, music and dance performances. “Barococo,” Happenstance Theater’s portrayal of the excesses of entitlement in the 1700s, through Nov. 11; “Dido and Aeneas & Fairy Queen,” Peabody Chamber Opera’s double staging of Henry Purcell’s music, Nov. 30, Dec. 1; “The Rocky Horror Show,” Iron Crow Theatre’s adaptation of the cult classic, Dec. 14-16; “Thank You, Dad,” three short plays based on the life of Rev. Jim Jones, founder of the religious cult The Peoples Temple, Jan. 11-20. www.theatreproject.org. 45 W. Preston St., Mount Vernon, 410.752.8558 Map C2

EVERYMAN THEATRE— In a historic

building, local performers dedicated to making theater accessible and affordable to all. “Sweat,” Lynn Nottage’s Pultizer-winning play about NAFTA’s effect on the Rust Belt, through Nov. 25; “The Importance of Being Earnest,” Oscar Wilde’s beloved farce lampooning Victorian-era manners, Dec. 4-Jan. 6. www.everymantheatre. org. 315 W. Fayette St., Westside, 410.752.2208 Map C5 FELLS POINT CORNER THEATRE—

Community theater with local performers and writers. “Stick Fly,” Lydia Diamond’s affecting exploration of life for a wealthy African-American family, through Nov. 4; “Charley’s Aunt,” Brandon Thomas’s farce about two young men who talk their friend into impersonating an aunt to impress two young women, Nov. 30-Dec. 23. www. fpct.org. 251 S. Ann St., Fells Point, no phone Map F6 THE HIPPODROME THEATRE AT THE FRANCE-MERRICK— For Broadway

shows and more, a state-of-the-art complex. “Fiddler on the Roof,” a refreshed production of the famous musical about family and love in a Jewish household, Nov. 13-18; “Anastasia,” the stage adaptation of the beloved film centered on a young woman’s quest to discover her true identity, Dec. 4-9. www.france-merrickpac. com. 12 N. Eutaw St., Westside, 410.837.7400 Map B5 SPOTLIGHTERS THEATRE— Intimate

community stage since 1962 putting on compelling productions of modern and classic works. “Songs for a New World,” toe-tapping musical combining pop, gospel and jazz about pivotal moments in one’s life, Nov. 2-25; “Blithe Spirit,” Noel Coward’s comedy about a novelist trying to overcome writer’s block, Dec. 14-23 and Jan. 4-18. www. spotlighters.org. 817 St. Paul St., Mount Vernon, 410.752.1225 Map C3 VAGABOND PLAYERS— “America’s old-

est continuously running little theater.” “Cabaret,” iconic musical about a club and its players in Berlin in 1931, through Nov. 18; “And Then There Were None,” Agatha Christie’s murder mystery about an assassin who brings his victims to a remote island, Jan. 11-Feb. 10. www. vagabondplayers.org. 806 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 410.563.9135 Map E7

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THE GUIDE

Navigate

Charles Village This neighborhood north of city center is home to the “painted ladies,” Victorianera row houses painted in vibrant hues. Johns Hopkins Item Head University and the Baltimore 34 wds. Item MuseumProduct of Art add toText. the Myriad Pro SemiBold SemiExt cultural and intellectual8/11pt vibe, Dummy text goesprofessionhere dummy attracting young text goes here while ipso callumn als and artists, Waverlyy wordsare here, Su noon use word Farmers Market bustles with www.fjallraven.us. 304 Newbury community energy. St., 857.225.5683. Map 5, F5

hunt for treasure, shoot water cannons on a 90-minute cruise. Also adult BYOG (grog) cruises. Through Oct. 28: check schedule online. $22-$25, under 3 $12. Indoor pirate parties November-April. www.urbanpirates.com. 913 S. Ann St., Fells Point, 410.327.8378 Map F7

BALTIMORE WATER TAXI— Sleek fleet of

Hoopers Island draketails crisscrossing the harbor with stops at Canton, Fells Point, Inner Harbor, Federal Hill and Fort McHenry. Daily 11 am-8 pm. 1-day unlimited $5-$16; 2-day unlimited $14-$21. Buy with cash or credit card onboard, online or at visitor center (401 Light St.). www.baltimorewatertaxi. com. 410.563.3900

Neighborhoods CANTON— More than 200 years ago,

Captain John O’Donnell sailed into Baltimore from China and named his plantation for the Chinese port that brought him wealth. This once mostly Polish neighborhood remains connected to its working-class roots. Find shops, lively bars and cafes a few blocks east of Fells Point. www. baltimore.org/neighborhoods-mapstransportation/canton Map G7/H7

SPIRIT CRUISES— Sixty-minute sightsee-

ing cruises, plus longer outings for lunch, brunch, dinner, themed and holiday cruises. Two enclosed, climatecontrolled decks, an open-air top deck, DJs and dancing. See schedule online. $18.95-$79.90 (base for standard cruises). www.spiritcruises.com/ baltimore. 561 Light St., Inner Harbor, 866.312.2469 Map D7

FEDERAL HILL— The clay dome that rises

URBAN PIRATES— “Pirate” ship departs

from Fells Point for kid-friendly adventure on the Inner Harbor. Dress up,

just south of the Inner Harbor, bordered by Key Highway, Hanover and Cross streets, served as an observatory

from 1795 to 1895. Home to pubs, eateries and Cross Street Market, a blocklong enclosed marketplace. www. baltimore.org/neighborhoods-mapstransportation/federal-hill Map D8 FELLS POINT— William Fell, a Quaker

shipbuilder from Lancaster, England, founded this maritime community in 1730. Today the 14-block area bustles with young residents who like its architectural history, cafes and taverns. www.fellspointmainstreet.org. 410.675.8900 Map F6/7 HAMPDEN— The city’s center of kitsch

and the setting for the movie “Pecker,” by offbeat film director John Waters. Pink flamingos adorn row house yards; eclectic shops line main drag “The Avenue” (W. 36th Street). www.baltimore. org/neighborhoods-maps-transporta tion/hampden. North of Map A1 HARBOR EAST— Attention foodies: lots

to discover in this affluent community within walking distance (or water taxi)

WELCOME! During most of the 19th century, Baltimore was the number two port of entry for immigrants (after NYC’s Ellis Island). 28

W H E R E B A LT I M O R E I FA L L / W I N T E R 201 8

©JACK LYONS/FLICKR, CREATIVE COMMONS

Cruises

N A V I G AT E of Inner Harbor. Look for the gleaming Katyn Memorial landmark sculpture. www.harboreast.com. President and Aliceanna sts. Map E7 INNER HARBOR— An urban revitalization

success story, now the city’s popular maritime zone thanks to National Aquarium, Maryland Science Center, historic ships, cruises and waterfront paths for strolling. www.baltimore. org/see-do/inner-harbor-attractions Map D6/7 LITTLE ITALY— Just 12 blocks long at the

harbor’s southeast corner. Known for its bocce courts, colorful citizens and Old World food at many trattorias. www.littleitalymd.com Map E6 MOUNT VERNON— Cultural enclave with

The Walters Art Museum, Enoch Pratt Free Library, Peabody Institute, Baltimore Basilica, Center Stage and the nation’s first Washington Monument. Five blocks north of Inner Harbor. www. mountvernonbaltimore.org Map C3/4 MOUNT WASHINGTON— An early

“streetcar suburb” and summer retreat for folks like H.L. Mencken, a 15-minute drive northwest from Inner Harbor. Luckman Park, ceramics center, arboretum. Sulgrave Avenue with shops and cafes in turn-of-last-century houses. Also accessible by light rail. www. mountwashingtonvillage.com Map C3 STATION NORTH— An up-and-

coming, rough-around-the-edges arts and entertainment zone north of Beaux-Arts Penn Station. Visitors head to galleries, eateries and theaters. www.stationnorth.org. 410.962.7075 North of Map C1 WESTSIDE— Multimillion-dollar renova-

tions to this historic neighborhood just west of downtown, now a dynamic, mixed-use urban district. Visit historic Lexington Market, Edgar Allan Poe’s grave or the spectacular Roundhouse of the B&O Railroad Museum. Theaters include Everyman and France-Merrick Performing Arts Center. www.balti more.org/neighborhoods-maps-trans portation/westside Map B4

Tours & Transport BALTIMORE GHOST TOURS— One-hour

tours uncovering spirits of the past in the rowdy seaport of Fells Point and the aristocratic enclave of Mount Vernon. From $14 (in advance; $15 onsite). Also a two-hour haunted pub crawl

(for ages 21 and up). $21 (in advance; $25 onsite). www.baltimoreghosttours. com. 731 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 877.293.1571 Map F7 BALTIMORE NATIONAL HERITAGE AREA— Comprising historic sites,

cultural institutions, arts venues, parks. Offers guided walking tours of city neighborhoods. $10, children under 13 free. www.explorebaltimore.org. Most tours departing from 401 Light St., Inner Harbor, 410.878.6411 Map D7 BALTIMORE TOURS & CRAWLS—Walking

tours and pub crawls in history-rich Fells Point on themes from ghosts and hauntings to bootleggers, sports legends and craft beer. $18-$22. Check schedule online. www.toursandcrawls. com. Departs from Admiral Fell Inn, 888 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 443.333.4774 Map F7 CHARM CITY CIRCULATOR— Fleet

of low-emission buses running daily along four routes at 10-minute intervals. Stops include Inner Harbor, Fells Point, Johns Hopkins hospital, B&O Railroad Museum, Penn Station and Fort McHenry. Linking to rail and subway lines plus Water Taxi Harbor Connector to Tide Point. Free. www. charmcitycirculator.com. Office at 417 E. Fayette St., 410.350.0456 Map D5 CHARM CITY FOOD TOURS— Walking

tours exploring historic neighborhoods sampling dishes at familyowned restaurants and shops. Fells Point, Federal Hill, Little Italy and Jonestown or Mount Vernon. Also tours of Lexington and Cross Street markets. Check online for schedules and prices. www.baltimorefoodtours. com. 410.248.6726 CHARM CITY HELICOPTERS— Founded

by local flight instructor Caitlyn Shipley, company offering tours aboard a custom Bell 407 helicopter, ranging from the 12-minute Destination Baltimore, over iconic sights like Camden Yards and the Natty Boh sign, to luxury packages with dinner, limo and hotel stays. From $129. www.flycharm city.com. 1800 S. Clinton St., Canton, 410.707.1013 South of Map H8 CHARM CITY PEDAL MILL— A 16-person

covered “bicycle” taking pedalers on pub crawls and tours through the streets of Fells Point. Custom routes available. Operates in most weather. Ages 16 and up. From $30. Times

vary; check website. www.charm citypedalmill.com. 1920 Aliceanna St., Fells Point, 443.956.6455 Map F7 CITY BREW TOURS— Led by a suds-savvy

guide/designated driver, behind-thescenes glimpses (and tastings) at local breweries like Oliver, Heavy Seas Beer and Pratt Street Ale House, followed by a three-course meal with beer pairings. Check website for schedule/prices. www.citybrewtours.com/baltimore. Departs from entrance to West Shore Park, 401 Light St., 410.469.8687 Map C5 EXECUCAR— Serving more than 55

airports around the country, sedan and SUV service with flat rates, meet-andgreet and specialized group services plus frequent flier points and miles with select airlines. www.execucar. com. 6900 Virginia Manor Road, Suite #110, Beltsville, Md., 410.859.3427 800.410.4444. SUPERSHUTTLE— Affordable, 24/7 trans-

port to and from airports. SuperShuttle serves more than 40 airports nationwide and offers door-to-door service, group rates, charters and frequent flier points and miles with select airlines. www.supershuttle.com. 800.258.3826 YELLOW CAB OF BALTIMORE— Founded

in 1909, operates 600 taxis (some hybrid) in Baltimore area. Wheelchair access. $30 flat rate from downtown to BWI Thurgood Marshall Airport. Book by phone or online. www.yellowcabof baltimore.com. 2100 Huntingdon Ave., 410.685.1212

Visitor Centers BALTIMORE VISITOR CENTER— Between

Harborplace and the Maryland Science Center, the site provides shopping information, dining reservations and touch-screen kiosks for instant guides plus tickets for events and attractions. 10 am-5 pm daily (call for seasonal hour changes). www.visitbaltimore. org. 401 Light St., Inner Harbor, 877.225.8466 Map C7 FELLS POINT VISITOR CENTER— Advice

for locating pubs, eateries and entertainment plus a museum, short films and souvenirs. Through Nov. 20: F-Su 11 am-3 pm (reopens April 1). www. preservationsociety.com/about-us/ visitor-center.html. 1724 Thames St., 410.675.6750 Map F7

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[WHERE INSIDE]

Baltimore Your Way UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE.

Romantic

Luxury Traveler

First-Timer

Diehard devotion in this town may skew sports and seafood, but couples, take heart. There’s also plenty of inspiration for passion of a more personal nature. (1) Baltimore Museum of Art displays heart-stirring paintings and sculptures, plus the world’s largest collection of works by Henri Matisse. At (2) Sotto Sopra, candlelight and opera singers set a romantic mood for falling in love with Riccardo Bosio’s house-made ravioli “dell’amore.” Across town at (3) Patterson Park, amorous duos stroll the lakeside and climb to the top of the Victorian Pagoda (above) for stunning city views.

This city of “hons” may be down to earth, but it also knows how to treat people well. Retro-style department store (1) QG is a hub of pampering, with designer clothing, a spa, a cigar lounge and even a barbershop. At the new hunting lodge-like speakeasy, (2) The Elk Room in glam Harbor East, cocktail connoisseurs sit back (no standing here), while experts strut their stuff with liquid nitrogen and centrifuges. For decades, locals have been going to (3) Tio Pepe for special occasions. Here, white tablecloths and classic Spanish dishes transport diners to a more elegant time.

Since its founding in 1729, Baltimore has become a destination for fine dining and rich history with tons of local color. With views of the Inner Harbor and delectable seafood, (1) Rusty Scupper tops any list for a trip to Charm City. For a deep dive into the state, newbies should check out (2) Maryland Historical Society, whose collections include Francis Scott Key’s original handwritten manuscript of the “Star-Spangled Banner.” At fun (3) Cat’s Eye Pub, hang like a local with cold beers and lively bands playing folk, indie and everything in between.

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FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/BALTIMORE.

U.S.S. Constellation in the Inner Harbor