Where Magazine Berlin Aug 2018 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE Â®

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

AUGUST 2018

PLUS WHAT BERLINERS DRINK BEST DAY TRIPS WANNSEE LAKE

Places to enjoy the weather in Berlin and beyond

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB AUGUST COVERuse.indd 1

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Berlin

CONTENTS

08.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Guide The best of Berlin

12 88

7 Editor’s Note

8 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

Putting your best foot forward in new summer shoes.

Highlights of the month’s can’t-miss events, from the Long Night of Museums to the International Beer Festival.

XX Wannsee, a piece of grim history at one of Berlin's largest and most beautiful lakes.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

East-West jewelry and XX French graphic designers at the Bröhan-Museum.

Tabletop grill restaurants fire up for the BBQ season.

18 Ask The Concierge

Interpreting the language of dance at the festival Tanz Im August.

Ursula Heinzelmann Exploring the history of German cuisine and today's Berlin foodie scene.

Where Now

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ON THE COVER: THE CHARLOTTENBURG PALACE, © ISTOCK.

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Be adventurous and broaden your sightseeing horizons with a day trip out of the city.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

A pullout fact guide about the Wall, cutting (literally) right through Berlin history.

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Platz der Republik Repub

unnel ergartent Tierg

16 Get Out Of Town

Places to enjoy the weather in Berlin and beyond

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BY JOE STANGE

The Berlin Wall

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Thirst quenching and refreshing! What Berliners like to drink in the summertime.

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Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

AUGUST 2018

PLUS WHAT BERLINERS DRINK

ESSENTIALS

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE

There is nowhere better on balmy summer nights than a rooftop bar.

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YOUNG EURO CLASSIC: PHOTO BY KAI BIENERT; SHIRT BY LIU JO; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

58 My Berlin

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ENTERTAINMENT

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Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.

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The Plan Let’s get started

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The best relief from the oppressive summer heat? A good headwind. Set off in your dream sports car. Exhilaration, adrenaline and goose bumps included. Visit us at www.porsche.de/drive and reserve your dream Porsche. Or do it in person at Porsche Drive, Franklinstrasse 23 in Berlin or at one of our other locations in Stuttgart, on Sylt or in Rotkreuz (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100km) urban 12.6–10.4 · extra urban 6.8–6.7 · combined 9.0–8.0; CO₂ emissions combined 208–184/km

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EDITOR Solveig Steinhardt CONTRIBUTORS Hilda Hoy, Annabelle

Joe Stange, Serene Tseng.

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

HIER SPIELT DIE ZUKUNFT!

A Great Month Summertime… We just wish it would never end! Thankfully, this August seems so promising that we will have the chance to make the most out of every second of the Berlin summer. There are dance shows, art exhibitions, music festivals, and even a mile of beer stands at the International Beer Festival on KarlMarx-Allee. For a detailed report on the city’s drinking culture, turn to page 12 and read Joe Stange’s article on what Berliners like to drink. I recently had the chance to see the inaugural ceremony of the Konzerthaus’s new conductor, Christoph Eschenbach, who will succeed Iván Fischer as the head of the Konzerthausorchester. Eschenbach, who is a great interpreter of symphonic repertoire from the late 1800s and 1900s, will be present at the Young Euro Classics festival this month (p. 9), but we’ll have to wait until September for his first concert with the orchestra. On a different note, the Berlin Wall has now been down six months longer than it was up, but it still has lots of stories to tell. We collected a few of them for our Berlin Wall pullout special. Take it with you and explore this important portion of recent history.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

Enjoy!

03 TO 20 AUG 2018

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Konzerthaus Berlin Festival of the World´s Best Youth Orchestras Young-Euro-Classic.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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HOT

DATES

August is a great month to be in Berlin. From nights at the museum to classical music and fireworks, this month is filled with fabulous events.

AQUARELLA FROM FRIDAY

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Don’t miss this pyrotechnics musical on water! On two weekends this month (10-11 and 24-25 Aug), the Spree River will transform into a brightly illuminated corso as cruise boats tour through the city center with colorful laser lights, music, and a fireworks display. Hop on board at either Hansabrücke, Haus der Kulturen der Welt, or Hauptbahnhof. www.aquarella-berlin.de

BEER FESTIVAL FROM FRIDAY

Prost!! This three-day folk festival celebrates Germany’s national drink with a mile-long selection of beer and over 300 breweries on tap to set another Guinness World Record for the longest beer garden. Almost 90 countries are represented, but this year’s motto is “beers from the other end of the world: the ‘hop side’ of New Zealand.” Stumble your way down the monumental Karl-Marx-Allee between Strausberger Platz and Frankfurter Tor. www.bierfestival-berlin.de

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YOUNG EURO CLASSIC FROM FRIDAY

They’re young and they’re talented! For 17 days every summer, youth orchestras from all over the world fill Berlin’s Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt to the brim, performing compositions from Beethoven and Strauss as well as contemporary pieces. Berlin is a world-class musical capital, and this also holds true for young classical musicians. www.young-euroclassic.de

LONG NIGHT OF MUSEUMS SATURDAY

Berlin is said to have more museums than rainy days. On this night, one ticket grants access to more than 100 museums and cultural institutions staying open until 2am, giving us seven extra hours to cram in as many as possible. Alongside the permanent exhibitions will be one-off concerts, guided tours, and hands-on activities to add to the atmosphere. Public transport and shuttle buses are included in the price. www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de

HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS SATURDAY

The Indian spring festival has made its way to Berlin in time to celebrate summer. From noon onwards, participants can dive into color at Zentraler Festplatz in Tegel, as a countdown every hour tells people when to throw their bright powder up into the air. In between countdowns, the festival turns into a vibrant party, with DJs, bands, and musicians from India and all over the world performing live on stage. You’re recommended to wear white. www.holifestival.com

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AUGUST a

THE WEST EASTERN DIVAN ORCHESTRA SUNDAY

What began in Weimar as a workshop to unite young musicians from Israel, Palestine, Syria, Egypt, Iran, and other Middle Eastern countries has developed into a world-class ensemble, not just promoting international understanding, but also providing unforgettable music. This month, the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra and its renowned conductor, Daniel Barenboim, together with violinist Lisa Batiashvili, will be performing Johannes Brahms' violin concerto and works by Claude Debussy. www.west-eastern-divan.org

POTSDAM PALACE NIGHT FROM FRIDAY

Come celebrate the bygone era of the Prussian kings in all its pomp and glory! For two days, the gardens and temples around Sanssouci Palace in Potsdam will be brilliantly illuminated and filled with Baroque musicians, dance and theater performances, costumed characters, and culinary treats, giving you a glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of Frederick the Great and his royal dignitaries. www.potsdamer-schloessernacht.de

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HOT DATES

New York alt-rockers the Goo Goo Dolls are in town to play a show at Columbia Theater. Experience the swinging 1920s with a show of the musical Cabaret at Tipi am Kanzleramt. Precocious musical talents show their stuff in the Young Euro Classic orchestral festival. Thinking about new ink? Check out the big Tattoo Convention on all weekend at Arena. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Pop princess Britney Spears stops at MercedesBenz Arena on her popular Piece of Me tour. Cheer at the European Athletics Championships, getting underway at Olympiastadion today. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. The "Organ Summer" series continues with a concert of Bach pieces in Berliner Dom cathedral. The avant-garde jazz ensemble Sun Ra Arkestra boogies tonight at the Festsaal Kreuzberg venue. Join the fun at the open-air "Bearpit Karaoke"session in Mauerpark. Mega-successful indie rockers Arcade Fire play a big show at Zitadelle Spandau this evening. The wild and uninhibited Cape Town hip-hop duo Die Antwoord play at Parkbühne Wuhlheide. The Pop-Kultur festival begins at Kulturbrauerei, featuring concerts, talks, exhibitions, and more. Beach Boys frontman Brian Wilson sings the famed 1966 album Pet Sounds at Admiralspalast. Carlos Santana brings his infectious Latin rock to the concert stage at Zitadelle Spandau. Dance to techno at the wildly colorful, Hindiinspired Holi Festival of Colors. Take in the marvellous music of the WestEastern Divan Orchestra at Waldbühne. Twenty years after their debut, rock band Incubus is back to play at Columbiahalle. Still singing after all these years, A-ha stop at Zitadelle Spandau on their Electric Summer tour. Sip a cold one in the shade of chestnut trees at Prater, Berlin's oldest beer garden. The indie garage rocker known as King Tuff performs live tonight at Berghain Kantine. One of Germany's most successful musicians, Westernhagen sings at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Fireworks and classical music come together for the Feuerblumen concert in Britzer Garten. Treat yourself to a deluxe Sunday brunch in the elegant rooms of Café im Literaturhaus. Watch a movie under the stars at the open-air Freiluftkino Kreuzberg. The music & dance of Michael Jackson live on in the Beat It! show at Theater Potsdamer Platz. On hot summer days, head to the city's west end for a refreshing dip in Wannsee Lake. Admire the giant lily pond in the Botanical Garden's newly reopened Victoria House. Craft beer fans: check out the impressive range of brews at Neukölln's Muted Horn bar.

AQUARELLA: COURTESY OF AQUARELLA; POTSDAM PALACE NIGHT: PHOTO BY KLAUS BAEDICKER; BARENBOIM AT THE WALDBÜHNE:PHOTO BY KAI HEIMBERG; BEER FESTIVAL: COURTESY OF INTERNATIONALES BERLINER BIERFESTIVAL; YOUNG EURO CLASSIC: © MUTESOUVENIR, PHOTO BY KAI BIENERT; NATURKUNDEMUSEUM © SERGEJ HOROVITZ; HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS: COURTESY OF HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

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WHERE NOW | DRINKING CULTURE

Berlin, where you can mix anything with anything, and beer is a fashion accessory. By Joe Stange

XXXXXXPHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE OR PRESS COMMAND + SHIFT THEN CLICK TO CHANGE

Many Drinks, Few Rules

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erlin is a thirsty town, and not only in summer. Consider the German propensity for beer and schnapps, add a taste for wine that befits any respectable European capital, and top it off with one of the world’s most advanced cocktail scenes, and you have a recipe for… well. Be careful out there. Mind you, Berliners are not the sort to take their drinks too seriously. Liquor flavors are counterintuitive and cocktails break the mold. Signs on the U-Bahn say that drinking is prohibited, but this is best understood as a polite suggestion. In the local beer, meanwhile, there is none of the Bavarian piety associated with the Reinheitsgebot, the so-called German Purity Law. On the Berlin drinks scene, it would appear, nothing is sacred. Here are some suggestions for those looking to drink in some local flavor.

BERLINER WEISSE: This distinctively homegrown, tart, light wheat beer has caught fire among craft breweries in the United States and elsewhere… yet it long ago fell out of fashion in Berlin. Often viewed as a novelty for tourists and teens, the beer is sweetened and colored with syrups made of raspberry (red) or woodruff

(green), added to a relatively simple industrial brand. However Berlin’s own craft scene has opened a space for a revival of more authentic, throwback Berliner Weisse whose half-wild yeast cultures add greater complexity—forget the syrup. You can do what some old Berliners still do: order it mit Strippe, with a shot of caraway schnapps (Kümmel). Brands to hunt: Schneeeule Marlene, Brewbaker Berliner Weisse, Lemke Budike Weisse and Berliner Berg Berliner Weisse. A good bet for finding them is the Beereau shop and tasting room (Claire-Waldoff-Str. 4).

COCKTAILS: The city has too many homegrown tipples to list here. One of the most unusual is the Hilde, named after German singer and film star Hildegaard Knef. Inspired by some of her lyrics, it is simply a glass of ice-cold champagne served next to an equally cold shot of vodka. Its home is the Victoria Bar (Potsdamer Str. 102, www.victoriabar.de). Another local institution is the Green Door, with a house drink of the same name: champagne with lemon, mint, and sugar (Winterfeldstr. 50, greendoor.de).

MORE LOCAL BOOZE: Keep an eye out for Berliner Luft: a sweet, omnipresent

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Best of the rest

Clockwise from this photo: Ulrike Genz from Schneeeule Berliner Weisse; Mampe Halb und Halb Schnapps ; Enjoying a beer on the river. Inset, below: Ostmost cider and Schorle.

MAMPE A real Berlin classic enjoying a resurgence, these Berlin-made herbal liquors now have their own shop and tasting room in Kreuzberg’s Bergmannkiez. Am Tempelhofer Berg 6, www.mampe.berlin

peppermint liqueur (18% alcohol by volume). It’s… an acquired taste. There are versions with glitter, chocolate, banana and elderflower (Holunder) but we can’t vouch for them. More appealing as a digestif is KR/23, a sweetish, herbal liquor that is actually made in Berlin—unlike other brands that slap Berlin on the label but come from elsewhere.

WITH SMOKE: While smoking bans have taken hold elsewhere, one of Berlin’s quirks is the resilience of the Raucherkneipe—the smoking bar. Restaurants and many nicer pubs are smoke free, but most of the city’s typical neighborhood boozers still allow smoking (check for a sign out front). Many have atmosphere in spades; one that has developed the requisite patina is the Quell-Eck (Tieckstr. 41), while another favorite is Victoria Stadler in Friedrichshain (Neue Bahnhofstr. 7b), with a punk-rock edge and the superb beers of Bavarian brewery Schönramer. Many of the cocktail bars also allow smoking, like classy but cozy Windhorst (Dorotheenstr. 65, www. windhorst-bar.de) WEGBIER: A fine compound word that literally means “road beer.” In many cities drinking in the street would be frowned upon, but in Berlin is practically de rigueur. Especially after work and on weekends, you will see people with a bottle in hand on the

PREUSSISCHE SPIRITUOSEN MANUFAKTUR Traditional fruit-, nut-, and herb-flavored schnapps distilled in Wedding since 1874. Tastings & tours offered. Seestr. 13, www.psmberlin.de E & M LEYDICKE A humble family-run pub dating back to 1877, distilling fruity liquors to imbibe on site or take home in bottles. Mansteinstr. 4, www.leydicke.com

train or just walking down the sidewalk. They may be on their way to a party, enjoying a nightcap on their way home, or simply thirsty. There are some U-Bahn lines at certain hours where you start to feel out of place if you’re not holding a beer. But where does one get a Wegbier?

FROM A SPÄTI: The usual thing is to grab a bottle from another key Berlin institution: the Späti,, any of hundreds of convenience stores that stay open late and can be found all over the city. A few even have prolific beer selections and keep it all cold, like Boxi Kiosk in Friedrichshain (Gärtnerstr. 14). SCHÖRLE: Ready for something softer? Like most Germans, Berliners have yet to meet a

thing that they are not willing to dilute with fizzy water. Apfelschörle is the most common—with apple juice—but you’ll see it with Johannisbeer (blackcurrant) and Maracuja (passion fruit), among other things. Often these soft drinks come pre-mixed and bottled; local brands include Proviant and Ostmost Ostmost. In restaurants you may also see Weinschörle—red or white wine diluted with sparkling water —because, we suppose, we must get our hydration from somewhere.

PREVIOUS PAGE: BOTTLES, COURTESY OF LQR COMPANY, BERLINER LUFT, BERLINER KINDL; OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: SCHNEEEULE: COURTESY OF SCHNEEEULE; BEER ON THE SPREE: © ISTOCK; BOTTLES: COURTESY OF OSTMOST. MAMPE: COURTESY OF MAMPE SPIRITUOSEN.

WHERE NOW | DRINKING CULTURE

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A STRONG PIECE OF BERLIN! Come and visit Berlins oldest spirit brand.

MAMPE. Berlin for more than 160 years and the oldest liquor company of the city! A brand with history and thousand stories to tell. After being homeless for almost 40 years, MAMPE has found a new home again. A former beer brewery has been transformed into a genuine Berlin factory for excellent crafted spirits. Experience the history and learn more about Berlin, MAMPE and craft spirits. Of course all spirits can be tasted and purchased.

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MAMPES NEUE HEIMAT Am Tempelhofer Berg 6 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Aufgang 2, 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg Opening hours: Monday till Saturday, 10 am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 pm English events and programs on demand. Further information on www.mampe.berlin

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Get out of t Hilda Hoy has the 7 best day trips for exploring beyond Berlin’s borders.

ure, this city has plenty to offer, but striking out in the name of adventure promises many rewards. Broaden your sightseeing horizons and take a day trip out of the city to swim in an idyllic lake, marvel at amazing architecture, and more.

1 LIEPNITZSEE

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With clean, clear waters that shine turquoise under the summer sun, Liepnitzsee is widely tipped as the best swimming spot around Berlin. The effort it takes to get there will all feel worth it once you dive in for a refreshing swim. A paid-access beach area includes toilets and a snack bar, though most people simply lay down a towel on a quiet stretch of the tree-lined shore. Practice your breaststroke by swimming to the island in the lake’s middle, where a beer garden awaits. Should the swim back be too daunting after a few beers and sausages, there’s a ferry servicing the island too. Getting there: S2 or RE 3 train to Bernau, then a 30-minute bike ride or bus 909 to Ützdorf.

2 SANSSOUCI PALACE This regal retreat is easily the most popular day trip from Berlin, and for good reason. It’s quick and easy to get to Potsdam’s most beautiful palace and gardens via S-Bahn or regional train, yet it feels a world away. Often compared to Versailles, Sanssouci was built from 1745–1747 as a place for King Frederick the Great to escape the stress of the capital.

The rococo-style palace, painted in cheerful yellow, is fronted by a cascade of vineyard terraces. Just as beautiful is the sprawling, 300-hectare Sanssouci Park around the palace, filled with more palaces, fountains, statues, gardens, pavilions, and plenty of perfect picnic spots. Getting there: S7 or various regional trains to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Closed Mon.

3 BAUHAUS FOUNDATION DESSAU Artsy types, take note: A 90-minute train ride gets you to the place that gave rise to Bauhaus, one of the most influential art, design, and architecture movements of the 20th century. In addition to the Bauhaus College itself, designed in the 1920s by movement founder Walter Gropius, the city of Dessau is home to the Bauhaus Foundation (www.bauhaus-dessau.de) and numerous iconic Bauhaus buildings awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. To carry out its work of preserving the Bauhaus legacy, the Foundation hosts exhibitions, tours, workshops, and more. For the full experience, fans can even spend the night in one of the original studio apartments, kitted out in 1920s Bauhaus style. Getting there: Direct trains to Dessau Hauptbahnhof around every 2 hours.

4 LEIPZIG Saxony’s biggest city is home to culture and sights galore. For starters, there are the famous churches of Thomaskirche,

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EISENHÜTTENSTADT: STALINSTADT CC BY-SA 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER SLUDGE G. ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK;

7 where Bach served as choir director from 1723 until his death in 1750 and where the celebrated composer is now buried, as well as the Nikolaikirche, meeting point for the “Monday Demonstrations” which led to the overthrow of communism in 1989. Next, visit the Museum of Fine Arts for a glimpse into the celebrated New Leipzig School of contemporary art. Leipzig’s historic center is home to shopping passages like the Mädlerpassage, a beautifully preserved Art Nouveau gem housing boutiques and cafes. It also conceals the entrance to the 16th-century restaurant Auerbachs Keller, the famous setting for a scene from Goethe’s Faust. Stop by to feast on roast boar with potato dumplings. Getting there: Multiple Deutsche Bahn trains per day, about 75 minutes.

5 RHEINSBERG PALACE Brandenburg, the rural state that rings Berlin, is sometimes unflatteringly referred to as the capital’s Speckgürtel, or “flab belt.” But with its rolling pastures, forests, and quaint villages, Brandenburg actually offers many bucolic

breaks from the big city. Like the lakeside Rheinsberg Palace, a rococo-style, 18thcentury manor that was home to various royals and aristocrats over the centuries, including the young, pre-ascension Frederick the Great. After touring the lavish, antiquesand art-filled palace and manicured gardens, stroll along the boardwalk to the lake’s northeast corner, where a sandy beach awaits. All summer, the palace hosts open-air opera and concerts (www.kammeroperschloss-rheinsberg.de), and tickets include bus transport back to Berlin. Getting there: RE 5 train to Löwenberg, then the RB 54 regional train to Rheinsberg (Mark); approx. 90 minutes. Closed Mon.

6 EISENHÜTTENSTADT History and architecture buffs: Don’t pass up a day trip to the model city of East Germany. A one-time industrial hub on the Polish border, Eisenhüttenstadt (former name: Stalinstadt) was built from the ground up in the 1950s in strict accordance with socialist urban planning principles. Today, much of the city is under landmark protection.

Visit the fascinating Documentation Center of Everyday Culture in the GDR (www. alltagskultur-ddr.de) for a peek into that era, with exhibits of everything from propaganda posters to school satchels to baby strollers. The center is dedicated to preserving the artifacts of an extinct society and showcasing all the unique facets of life in East Germany. Getting there: RE 1 train to Frankfurt (Oder), then RB11 train to Eisenhüttenstadt; about 100 minutes. Documentation Center closed Mon.

7 SPREEWALD A lush, bucolic playground just an hour south of Berlin, Spreewald is a protected forest biosphere traversed by a network of narrow canals and dotted with adorable cottages, traditionally home to the Sorbian Slavic minority group. There are plenty of walking trails through the forest, but better yet, take a ride on one of the local flat-bottomed boats, propelled the old-fashioned way with wooden punts. More intrepid explorers can rent a canoe or kayak and head out for a paddle. Don’t forget to sample Spreewald’s famous pickled gherkins along the way, often sold from barrels at the edge of the water. Getting there: RE 2 trains depart hourly for Lübbenau, approx. 1 hour. www.wheretraveler.com 17

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Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Dejan Urosev, concierge at Hotel Palace Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does it mean for you personally to wear the golden keys? It fills me with pride. Every concierge should be an ambassador of his profession with the goal to make guests happy! When you have visitors, what do you show them? The highlights of the city: the Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag, TV Tower, Gendarmenmarkt, and much more. Insider tips for Berlin? The Berliner Unterwelten tours and a guided tour of the Tempelhof Airport. Describe Berlin in three words. Cosmopolitan, shrill, and colorful. Tell us something about your hotel. The Hotel Palace Berlin celebrated its 50th anniversary this year. The house stands for tradition, personality, individuality, and professionalism, but also for change. Our restaurant, beef 45, just opened, and this summer we will also reopen our bar, the House of Gin.

Berlin is bustling: Where is the best place to relax? Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island), a place of peace and nature, surrounded by water. Tips for a German specialty? Liver, Berlin-style, at restaurant LeibnizKlause. What sets Berlin apart from other major cities? Berlin is exciting, adventurous, and always on the move. A city that never sleeps.

From top to bottom: the Viktoriapark waterfall; a peacock; Brandenburg Gate; Gendarmenmarkt.

Do you know a romantic place in Berlin? The waterfall in Viktoriapark - from there you can enjoy a fantastic view over the city center. Your tip to experience the Berlin nightlife? A drink at a trendy rooftop bar and dancing at one of Berlin’s many great clubs, such as The Pearl. What’s a special way to discover Berlin? A privately run, individually tailored tour in a luxury sedan. The perfect Berlin souvenir is... A piece of the Berlin Wall.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

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Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, 10178 Berlin KurfĂźrstendamm 225, 10719 Berlin Schlossstr. 32a, 12163 Berlin

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Fresh Feet Forward There is nothing worse than hot feet in summer. Social etiquette doesn’t allow us to walk around barefoot, so the next-best option is a new pair of open-toed shoes. Here are my top three brands to keep those extremities cool (in every sense of the word). 1. Curiously Fashionable Birkenstocks The niche German orthopedic sandals, with a familiar chunky cork base and thick, buckled straps, have made a huge comeback. The brand's resurgence is said to be no mere trend, but rather a cultural shift where women in particular are opting for comfort over damaging heels. Birkenstocks supply this without completely capitulating on style. At Berlin’s one and only Birkenstock store you’ll find a huge assortment of the

homely sandals in all sorts of quirky and colorful designs. Neue Schönhauser Str. 6-7. www.birkenstock.com 2. Salt-Water Sandals Made For Salt Water These timelessly chic leather sandals have been a summer staple in America since the 1940s, and are perfect for hot and wet days. Thanks to the special coating and rust-free buckles, you can walk right into the stony Mediterranean Sea or splash about in a summer storm without ruining your shoes. On the contrary: moisture makes them even better, because they mold to your feet. Now available at multiple stockists around Berlin. The most convenient are Victoria Met Albert (Dunckerstr. 81) and Walking The Cat (Mulackstr. 7). www.salt-watersandals.com

3. Havaianas – Spreading the Brazilian Summer Spirit This cult flip-flop brand from Brazil was born in 1962, with their design based on traditional Japanese sandals. By the late 1960s, the original blue or white rubber shoe was a fundamental part of the Brazilian lifestyle, and since then hundreds of colors and designs have spread around the globe, even making their way onto runways of fashion designers. Havaianas – Portugese for "Hawaiians" – opened their doors for the first time in Germany last year along West Berlin’s luxury shopping strip. Here you’ll find the entire assortment of cheerful designs, including espadrilles and beach accessories, displayed between palms in typical Havaianas style. Kurfürstendamm 210. www.havaianas-store.com

COURTESY OF HAVAIANAS AND @ ISTOCK.

Annabelle Mallia decides to give her feet some seasonal loving.

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children's world and expansive gourmet section, there's truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger

Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion

Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton

Flourishing Marvels It’s time to stop and smell the roses. On 17 and 18 August, bright colors and seductive fragrances will fill Potsdamer Platz Arkaden for the bi-annual German Florist Championship. To qualify, participants first had to win their respective state championships. For the national championship, contestants must produce, with great talent, inventiveness, and craftsmanship, bouquets of flowers live in front of audiences in the heart of the capital. Expect to see flourishing works of art, without a standard bouquet in sight. Taking place on Saturday is the Fleurops Junge Wilde Azubi-Cup, where aspiring young florists are also given the chance to prove their skills. Entry to both events is free. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. www.dmfberlin.de

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1. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 2. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 3. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 4. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 5. Liebeskind, Neue Schönhauser Str. 8. 6. AGL, Galeries Lafayette, Französische Str. 23. 7. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 8. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 9. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

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CLOTHES Euro

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Dress by Marc Cain (Kurfürstendamm 69), shoes by Unützer (Giesebrechtstr. 10).

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S M L

man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Patrick Hellmann

SHOES & ACCESSORIES

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

Wormland

New Era Flagship Store

This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3 Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

2 4 6 8 10 12

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

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MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

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fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Pikolinos Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com. Kurfürstendamm 216. Uhlandstraße. C4

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. Bag by Unützer T: 030.2290212. S+U (Giesebrechtstr. 10). Friedrichstraße. E3

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Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

No.1 IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B E R L I N MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Selected shops

for the savvy shopper

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

FOOD & GOURMET Mampe Spirituosen The famous Berlin-based liquor company has a new home in the Bergmannkiez. Browse the shelves of the shop for great bottles to bring home. shop.mampe. berlin. Am Tempelhofer Berg 6. T: 030. 208484470. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E3

ELECTRONICS This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

©ISTOCK

Sennheiser

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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Michael Kors is a worldrenowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

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Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

SHOP STOP

BIKINI BERLIN

Bikini Berlin is all about fashion, design and good vibes. The concept shopping mall is renowned for its lovingly curated stores, as well as a number of pop-up boxes where brands can launch new products. Another highlight is the new Kantini food market, serving up culinary delights from various different countries. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 55496455 www.bikiniberlin.de

SHOP STOP

PARFUMSALON

PIKOLINOS

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Visit a Pikolinos store and take in the Mediterranean breeze! Pikolinos shoes are made with high-quality leather, delivering a unique experience that combines comfort, a natural feeling, and accessibility. Browse the shelves for stylish, unique footwear made using the highest quality standards. Kurfürstendamm 216. U Uhlandstraße www.pikolinos.com

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JÄ GE RS TR AS SE ESCADA

Bucherer

Annette Görtz Store Berlin

Französische Straße

R. FR IE DR IC H ST

FR AN ZÖ SI SC HE

GALERIES LAFAYETTE /Q207

COS Massimo Dutti Wempe Montblanc BABOR

BOSS Maurice Lacroix

TA UB EN ST RA SS

Gucci Galeries Lafayette

Quartier 206 Umasan

Marina Rinaldi Thomas Sabo MaxMara

JÄG ERS TRA SSE

Gendarmenmarkt

The Q.

Stefanel

MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

Comptoir des Cotonniers

TA UB EN ST R. Hausvogteiplatz

KR ON EN ST RA

Stadtmitte/U6

KR AU SE NS TR .

Flaconi

SC HÜ TZ EN ST RA

SS E

Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum

The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

SS E

LEIP ZIGE R STRA SSE

CH AR LO TT EN

SS E

ST RA SS E

Marc Cain

LE IP ZI GE R ST RA

SHOP STOP

N DE N

MEISSEN KPM Berlin LACOSTE

FR IE DR IC H ST

U N TE R DE N LI

ST R.

UN TE R DE N LI ND

Douglas

CH AR LO TT EN

KRIGLER @ Hotel Adlon

TS ST R.

M IT TE LS TR AS

AS SE

UN IV ER SI TÄ

TR AS SE

Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

DO RO TH EE NS TR

Rituals

DO RO TH EE NS

BerlinFriedrichstraße

MA RK GR AF EN ST

BABOR INSTITUT GE SC HW IS TE

SP RE E AM WE ID EN DA MM

PLAN

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OLSK

ZIEG ELS TRA SSE

FR IE DR IC H ST

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Lifesmyle

FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 27

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SHOPPING MAPS

MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO

DESIGUAL

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

Mavi

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

INTIMISSIMI

MAX & CO.

S & D sons and

TOMMY HILFIGER

Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Mephisto

daughters

TOMMY JEANS

Esprit

JD Sports

Eterna Fashion & Accessories

FASHION CLUB

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

Diamond

Change

Kingz

MAKEUP

LACOSTE

Foot Locker

LIEBESKIND

French Connection Frisco Jeans

Lief!

TWIN-SET

Schiesser

UN1DEUX2TROIS3

Schuh Bode

Undiz

SHOE CITY

Oakley

Levi’s

Fossil

Triumph

Sarar

Nike NYX PROFESSIONAL

Konplott

Fast Forward

Trigema

Salamander

NAVYBOOT

KARL LAGERFELD

FALKE

7 FOR ALL

Muji

Vans

Sidestep

Olymp

VERO MODA

Sizeer

Palmers

WE-Fashion

PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

ARMANI EXCHANGE

CHRIST

G-Star Raw

Liu Jo

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

LLOYD

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

ZARA

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

L’Occitane

Peek &

Street Shoes

ZERO

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

GUESS

Look 54

Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

BREE

Codello

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

...and the biggest Foodhall.

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TSTR

Sony Center CineStar/IMAX LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

POTS

LEIPZIGER STRASSE

Potsdamer Platz

CinemaxX

E AM

RASSE

EBER

VOSSSTRASSE

LMST

WILHE

ASSE

Mohrenstr.

Dalí Museum

BUNDESRAT

Potsdamer Platz

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KST

SSE

Blue Man Group Theater

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING © ISTOCK.

ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SHOPPING MAPS SHOP STOP

ADVERTORIALS

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE Rosenthaler Platz

GORM ANNS T

LINIENSTRASSE

TRAS

SE Kaviar Gauche

No 74

Rosa-Luxemburg Platz

Lala Berlin Hoho Berlin MULA CKSTR VOLK ASSE Cotélac ER L STE ANG Sto INS re TRA SSE Onitsuka REBECCA Skunkfunk Freitag Weinmeisterstr. 11 Ma vi

-STR. BURG LUXEM

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Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

EH GROSS

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

TORS

STR .

ENT

ROS Wolfen Germany Boutique ASSE STSTR AUGU Greta & Luis Ka tje sC afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Be Lieb -Oh SOP n S es r HIE k h i n e NST RAS rman d SE

HOME ON EARTH

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

ALT E

TORSTRASSE

ASS

Trüffelschwein

MÜ Scotch & Soda NZ STR Ad ASS i da As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s ka yk KS ek Bu ni or d a designer depot n y UN ffaloa Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store Oakley Michael Kors MCM

Promobo MÜHLE Store Berlin Home on earth Trippen

SHOP STOP

O LI V AE R

UHLANDSTR.

Uhlandstraße Papeterie Caran D‘ache Catherine Nail Salon

A MM

Marooush LIETZENBURG

JOACHIMSTHALER STR.

K URF

END ÜR S T

MEINEKESTR.

ST CA

KNESEBECKSTR.

Goldschmiede Bodo Dilg

Berlingold

Schuh Konzept Di‘Bel Be Edgy

PL A TZ

HYGGE INTERIØR

STR.

SYBELSTR. Unützer TS TR Schuhboutique .

stilwerk Berlin Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst

FASANEN

BLEIBTREUSTR.

WIELANDSTR.

LEIBNIZSTR.

Talbot Runhof

MOMMSENSTR.

0039 Italy

NST

Belle Rebelle

LMA

Planet Berlin Beatrice von Tresckow

FiNNs Mode

Lalic GOBI

Niessing Berlin

STR. Rahaus Living Margulies Jeannette Junior ROOKS & ROCKS

GRO

Tatem

NIEBUHRSTR. Meyer & Nehls

Zoologisch er Garten

NST

HIGHLIGHT

Savignyplatz

KANT

LMA

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 030 28045275 www.boots-and-shoes.de S Hackescher Markt

GRO

Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

GOETHESTR.

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

BOOTS & SHOES

SCHLÜTERSTR.

SAVIGNYPLATZ/CITY WEST

ER STR.

HACKESCHE HÖFE

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt

The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

UT PULLOIAL SPEC

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This photo: The night the Berlin Wall came down; Inset: an opening in the Wall in 1990; below: Potsdamer Platz in the 1960s, from the exhibition With the Wall, Without the Wall at the Berlin Wall Memorial.

Wall Stories BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

iving in Berlin, hearing stories about the Wall is a frequent occurrence, as almost every Berliner over 40 will have some anecdote to share. Many of my West Berlin friends, for example, had relatives in the East and often visited them, smuggling magazines and other forbidden Western goods to the other side. I've also spoken to various people from both East and West Berlin who, at some point in the post-Wall era, found out they'd been spied on by the East German secret police, and that there are files with their names on them at the Stasi Archives. But the most interesting story I've heard is that of my friend's father, who was a student in East Berlin in the early 1960s. The night the Wall was erected, he was camping on the Baltic Sea, while his good friend was at a party in West Berlin. The morning after, the Wall was up and the borders were closed: my friend's dad was destined to remain in East Berlin, and his friend was now in the West. The two remained in touch, and one day my father's friend was asked to send a passport-sized photo of himself. After many months, an Austrian man showed up at his door and handed his landlady an envelope containing a fake Spanish passport made by some creative students in the West, with a visa for the very same day. He hesitated all day long, then in the

DID YOU KNOW? • • The Berlin Wall was guarded by a total of 302 watchtowers, positioned strategically and manned by soldiers with orders to shoot to kill. Only three remain today: one of them is on ErnaBerger-Straße near Potsdamer Platz.

afternoon he went to the Spree, threw his GDR ID card in the water and walked to the Friedrichstraße border crossing. After three lengthy phases of border checks, and fearing the officers would ask him to speak Spanish, he was finally able to board the S-Bahn to West Berlin. Without any papers or luggage, he had to start a new life, which also included redoing university from scratch. As of last February, the Berlin Wall has been down longer than it was up, but new stories still keep emerging. Just a few of months ago, a historian revealed an un-

When Berlin was divided, the border cut through many U-Bahn lines. Affected stations were shut down and trains were only allowed to pass through, with passengers greeted by the sight of armed East German soldiers guarding the platform.

touched portion of Wall that the city forgot to tear down 20 years ago, hidden in a park in Pankow. And a few weeks later, some construction workers found an escape tunnel near Bernauer Straße. When the story appeared on the news, a man called the paper to say he had built the tunnel for his daughter, who was however caught, arrested, and imprisoned for attempting to escape – a small reminder that not all Wall escape stories had a happy ending.

Top photo: A watchtower in front of the Berlin Wall; Above: views of the Wall; Inset, left: Joy at Brandenburg Gate the day after the Wall came down.

•

The Wall may be long gone but the division can still be seen from space. After WWII, the West replaced the old, yellow-glowing streetlights with fluorescent white ones, while the East kept the old lamps. The differing shades are still evident today.

•

Checkpoint Charlie is the most famous of all the Berlin Wall border crossings, but there were others: Checkpoint Alpha, on the highway west of Berlin, and Checkpoint Bravo, at the southwest corner of the city.

BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL BERNAUER STRASSE: GRENZE POTSDAMER PLATZ, PHOTO BY WOLFGANG RUPPRECHT. OPEN BORDER IN 1990, PHOTO BY EDMUND LASPERSKI; NEXT PAGE: © ISTOCK. GRAPHIC RENDITION: "STRUCTURE OF THE BERLIN WALL" BY ERICMETRO, EIGENES WERK, LICENSED UNDER CC BY 2.0. COVER OF PULLOUT SPECIAL: PHOTO BY BERND MAYWALD.

The Berlin Wall has now been down for longer than it was up and, some say, Germany is now entering the post-postWall era. But many Berliners still have Wall stories to tell.

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THE BORDER breakdown

fter the orders to close the borders were given on 12 August, 1961, East German troops and workers began to tear up the streets running along the boundary, making it impassable for vehicles, and installing more than 150 kilometers of barbed-wire fences around the Allied sectors. Many families were divided overnight and East Berliners employed in the West were cut off from their livelihoods. Soon after, the initial concrete blocks were put into place and soldiers on guard were told to shoot anyone who attempted to defect. A second parallel fence was built the following year, about 100 meters farther into East Germany territory. The area in between was razed and covered with raked sand, rendering footprints easy to detect and providing a clear line of fire at escapees, creating the so-called "death strip." The Wall kept evolving throughout the years, making it ever harder to get through – reinforced by signal fencing, anti-vehicle trenches, dogs, "beds of nails" under balconies, smooth piping on the Wall's rim, and more than 100 watchtowers. West Berlin became an isolated enclave in a hostile nation.

EAST BERLIN

WEST BERLIN

12 3 4

1 Border line 2 Wall to the West 3 Lorry traps 4 Sand 5 Patrol Roads

6 Observation towers 7 Open spaces and tank traps

8 Signal fence 9 Wall to the East

THE STASI PRISON

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR CHECKPOINT CHARLIE Friedrichstraße 47 / corner of Zimmerstraße 10117 Berlin-Mitte Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.blackbox-kalter-krieg.de

# Daily Guided Tours # Permanent Exhibition #Audio-guides

Immerse yourself in the monumental panorama and experience the everyday life in the 1980s in Berlin

Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstr. 205, 10117 Berlin service@die-mauer.de, U-Bhf. Kochstraße asisi.de, die-mauer.de/en

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN

Genslerstr. 66 13055 Berlin Tel. 030-98608230 stiftung-hsh.de THE BERLIN WALL SPECIAL PULLOUT SEC TION III

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On This Month

Berlin's museums explore the many faces of the Cold War. LITTLE AMERICA Meanwhile in West Berlin, the Allied Forces defended the city but also mingled with the population. In Zehlendorf, US soldiers created their own American suburb. Visit the Allied Museum (Clayallee 135, www.alliiertenmuseum.de) to learn more about the history of Berlin's US Army community.

WITH THE WALL, WITHOUT THE WALL Until 15 August, the Berlin Wall Memorial will be presenting 56 images, one for each year from 1961 until 2018. The photographs show unfamiliar perspectives tracing the development and destruction of the Berlin Wall as well as life in East Berlin. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de ALLIED FORCES The permanent exhibition at the Allied Museum (www. alliiertenmuseum. de) walks visitors through the history of the Cold War through the lens of Berlin's Allied Forces. Check out spying devices, military tunnels, political documents, and an original Rosinenbomber airplane.

1968 At the Museum in der Kulturbrauerei (www.hdg.de) you can learn about everyday life in the GDR, but also get a glimpse of the 1968 student demonstrations in Berlin through the current photo exhibition.

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THE BERLIN AIRLIFT This year marks the 70th anniversary of the Berlin Blockade, when the USSR blocked all railway and road access to West Berlin. For 16 months, the Allies had to fly in food and supplies to West Berliners, operating an average of 1000 flights per day. Check out the monument to the airlift on Platz der Luftbrücke.

TRÄNENPALAST During the Cold War, the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn station was the main border crossing for the civilian population. The former border control building, now known as the Tränenpalast, or palace of tears (www.hdg.de), hosts a permanent exhibition detailing these departures, tragic goodbyes to friends and relatives, and general border procedures of the time.

1968: COURTESY OF MUSEUM IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI; AIRLIFT MONUMENT: © ISTOCK; LITTLE AMERICA: COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM; ALLIED MUSEUM TUNNEL: COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM; TRÄNENPALAST: TRÄNENPALAST PETRAS; SMB 1961 ZIMMERSTRASSE MARKGRAFENSTRASSE, PHOTO BY MICHAEL REINER ERNST.

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This photo: Memorial to the victims of the Wall. Left: A detail of a mural on a Bernauerstr. building portrays the famous photo by Peter Leibing of East German soldier Conrad Schumann as he jumps over the barbed wire to West Berlin. Right: Murals on a building depict the construction of the Wall

BUILDING AND MEMORIAL: © ISTOCK PHOTO; SOLDIER: DETAIL OF LE MUR A BERNAUERSTRASSE 22, BY FLICKR USER ALAIN ROUILLER, FLICKR.COM, CREATIVE COMMONS LICENSE LICENSED UNDER CC BY 2.0.

The Great Escapes

Visit the sites where a few brave souls made the journey from East Berlin to freedom. ALBRECHTSHOF STATION In December 1961, train engineer Harry Deterling drove a steam train full of 25 escapees – including his wife, children, and extended family – straight across the border into West Berlin's Spandau district. As an employee of the Reichsbahn, he had insider knowledge that that useful stretch of railway track was about to be dismantled. Seven people on the train were not part of the escape plot, and voluntarily returned to the East on foot. RUPPINER STR. & BERNAUER STR. East German soldier Conrad Schumann's flight to West Berlin is so famous that there's a statue of him on Brunnenstraße a few blocks south of where the escape took place. Schumann was only 19 in August 1961 when he was stationed to guard the Berlin Wall on its third day of construction. "Come over!" West Berliners on the other side shouted to him, and he suddenly dropped his gun and leaped over the barbed wire. The photo of him in mid-leap quickly became iconic.

CHECKPOINT CHARLIE Love was the motive behind one of the most spectacular escapes at the heavily guarded Checkpoint Charlie. To get his girlfriend into the West in 1963, Austrian Heinz Meixner rented a sporty little Austin-Healey convertible, removed the windshield, and let enough air out of the tires to ensure the car could pass under the checkpoint's 95-cmhigh barrier gate. When he sped through on a quiet Sunday at midnight, his girlfriend Margarete was huddled behind the driver's seat and his future mother-in-law was in the trunk, surrounded by bricks in case the guards opened fire. THREE BROTHERS, THREE ESCAPES Siblings Ingo, Holger, and Egbert Bethke each escaped from East to West one by one. In 1975 Ingo went first, paddling across the Elbe River north of Berlin on an air mattress. In 1983, Holger used a bow and arrow to shoot a string from an apartment in Treptow (East) to Neukölln (West). Together with Ingo, waiting on the other side, the brothers set up

a zip line and Holger zipped across into the West, landing on a balcony. Finally, in 1989, the two brothers in the West flew ultralight planes, disguised in the colors of the Soviet military, to pluck their last brother, Egbert, out of the East. Ingo landed his plane in Treptower Park, where Egbert was hiding in the bushes, according to plan. He jumped on board and they flew back to safety, landing in front of Tiergarten Park. MANY TRAGIC ENDINGS Numerous escape attempts, however, ended in tragedy. The first fatality was 58-year-old Ida Siekmann. When she realized her building's front door to West Berlin (at Bernauer Str. 48) had been blocked off, and that she no longer had access to the West where her family lived, she jumped out of the window and died of internal injuries. Another early victim was Peter Fechter, 18, who was shot by an East German guard in 1962 when he tried to run over to the West. He was left to bleed to death as horrified onlookers watched, leading to spontaneous demonstrations in the West. THE BERLIN WALL SPECIAL PULLOUT SEC TION V

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155km

Total length around West Berlin

THE WALL IN NUMBERS 105.5km of anti-vehicle trenches

43.1km

3 MONTHS Time the Wall stood

Length of border between East and West Berlin

138 259 Number of people who died trying to cross the border

28YEARS,

Number of dog runs

106km Length of the concrete wall

302 watchtowers

20 Number of bunkers

3.6m © ISTOCK.

Height of the concrete wall

BERLIN: CAPITAL OF SPIES A thrilling journey through the history of espionage

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin, Potsdamer Platz, Open daily 10 am – 8 pm, www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de

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Alltag in der DDR Everyday Life in the GDR CONTACT

www.hdg.de

WHEN IN BERLIN (www.wheninberlin.com)

for a virtual reality walking tour of the Berlin Wall.

With the fall of the Wall came Ostalgie, a German term referring to nostalgia for aspects of life in East Germany. Feeling a bit ostalgic today? Visit these old GDR locations for a journey back in time to 1987. EASTERN SOUVENIRS Stock up on East German souvenirs and furniture for friends and family at Dederon Design. www.dederon-design.de GDR DESIGN Discover the quirky side of GDR interiors at themed hostel Ostel. www.ostel.eu TRABI SAFARI Tour the city aboard a real Trabant, the iconic East German car. www.trabi-world.com

Tue – Sun 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Thu 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Eintritt frei Entrance free

Visit the Command Center of the Stasi Ruschestraße 103, 10365 Berlin, Magdalenenstrasse Mo-Fr 10 am - 6 pm / Weekend 11 am - 6 pm • www.stasimuseum.de

The Stasimuseum is funded by:

BACK TO 1987

Di – So 10.00 – 18.00 Uhr Do 10.00 – 20.00 Uhr

EVERYDAY ITEMS Selling GDR highlights from 1960s and 1970s, from home décor to apparel. www.veborange.de PLATTENBAUMUSEUM Step inside a popular GDR "pre-fab" apartment, unchanged since the 1980s. www.stadtundland.de

GDR GROCERIES Ostalgic palates can get their fix at Ostpaket, an online supermarket selling the flavors of their GDR childhood. www.ostprodukte-versand.de

COURTESY OF DDR MUSEUM

DISCOVER THE ORIGINAL WALL! Bernauer Str. 119 | 13355 Berlin Tue – Sun 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. | Free admission Open Air Exhibition | Tours | Workshops www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de THE BERLIN WALL SPECIAL PULLOUT SEC TION VII

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MORE THAN JUST A WALL BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL One of the few surviving and best-preserved stretches of the Berlin Wall. Bernauer Str. 111. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de

THE DDR MUSEUM Learn more about daily life in East Germany and by the Berlin Wall. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. www.ddr-museum.de

EAST SIDE GALLERY 1.3 kms of Wall, decorated by international artists in 1990. Mühlenstraße

CHECKPOINT CHARLIE The most famous border crossing during the Cold War. U Kochstraße

ASISI WALL PANORAMA A journey back in time to a winter day in 1983 at this life-sized installation. Friedrichstr. 205. www.asisi.de THE STASI PRISON IN HOHENSCHÖNHAUSEN More than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the GDR were imprisoned here. Genslerstr. 66. en.stiftung-hsh.de THE ALLIED MUSEUM Explore the history of the Allied presence in Berlin and its effects on the city. Clayallee 135. www.alliiertenmuseum.de

THE STASI MUSEUM The headquarters of the Stasi, East Germany's secret police and one of the most repressive intelligence agencies ever to exist. Ruschestr. 103. www.stasimuseum.de KARLMARXALLEE This East Berlin boulevard is a great example of Stalinist "wedding-cake-style" architecture. U Strausberger Platz TRÄNENPALAST This border crossing witnessed many farewells of family members separated by the Wall. S Friedrichstraße DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM The German History Museum has a welldocumented section on the Cold War. Unter den Linden 2. www.dhm.de BERLINER UNTERWELTEN Historians take visitors on underground tours of spooky Cold War bunkers. www.berliner-unterwelten.de

Foto: Nationales Denkmal für die Opfer des Mauerbaus und der deutschen Teilung an der Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, Hans-Hermann Hertle

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HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE Discover how East Berliners managed to escape to the West (see image below). Friedrichstr. 43. www.mauermuseum.de THE GERMAN SPY MUSEUM Delve into the world of espionage. Leipziger Platz 9. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de MUSEUM IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI Explores everyday life in the GDR. Knaackstr. 97. www.hdg.de MARIENFELD REFUGEE CENTER Where East German refugees received their first help. Marienfelder Allee 66. www.notaufnahmelager-berlin.de

Die Berliner Mauer. Die kostenlose App für iPhone, iPad und Android-Smartphones hilft bei der Suche nach der Berliner Mauer.

www.chronik-der-mauer.de/app

THE WALL MUSEUM Revise your Cold War history at this informative museum. Mühlenstr. 78-80. www.thewallmuseum.com

Images from top to bottom: The Allied Museum; The documentation center at the Berlin Wall Memorial; The entrance of the Museum in der Kulturbrauerei; The DDR Museum; The exterior of the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.

ALLIED MUSEUM: COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM; BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL INTERIOR: COURTESY OF BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL; MUSEUM IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI: COURTESY OF MUSEUM IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI, PHOTO BY KLONK; HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE: COURTESY OF HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE; DDR MUSEUM: COURTES OF DDR MUSEUM.

VIII THE BERLIN WALL SPECIAL PULLOUT SEC TION

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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Clockwise from this photo: Aerial view of Pfaueninsel; Wannsee; the castle at Pfaueninsel; Strandbad Wannsee; The Liebermann Villa.

The Story Of Wannsee

©ISTOCK

Solveig Steinhardt goes on a historic tour of Berlin’s most bucolic suburb. One great thing about Berlin is that it’s surrounded by serene landscapes of forest and water, and most are just a short S-Bahn ride away from the center. No Berlin suburb, however, is as sublime and rich in history as Wannsee. Wrapped around a widened portion of the Havel River, the Wannsee district has been a favorite summer destination ever since the late 1600s, when the Great Elector Frederick William chose its shores as the location for his hunting lodge, the Baroque Jagdschloss Glienecke (Königstr. 36B, www.sfbb.berlin-brandenburg.de). A century later, his descendant Frederick William II bought an island in the lake to build a castle for his mistress. He filled the island with peacocks (Pfauen) and called it Pfaueninsel (peacock island). The birds are still there, and the island is a mere three-minute ferry ride away from the mainland. But Wannsee's golden age began in 1874,

when the brand-new S-Bahn line connected the neighborhood to the city center and many Berliners started buying land around the lake to build their luxurious weekend villas. One of these was the German Impressionist, Jewish painter Max Liebermann. His 1909 lakeside house (Liebermann Villa, www.liebermann-villa.de, Colomierstr. 3) examplifies turn-of-the-century residential property and is now a museum dedicated to his paintings, many of which depict the villa itself and its garden. By the end of the 1800s, Wannsee was an established beach town for all Berliners. To make this even more true, a local merchant built an open-air lido, bringing in sand from the Baltic Sea, and created the Strandbad Wannsee beach, which is still in use today (Wannseebadweg 25, www.berlinerbaeder.de). The city bought the beach in the 1920s and improved it with buildings in the functional New Objectivity style. The Strandbad stayed open throughout WWII to

provide the population with relief during dark times, with all-German entertainment provided by Wehrmacht bands. Today, a visit to the lido provides both a refreshing break from the city heat and an interesting glimpse into the history and architecture of the 1900s. In 1942, 15 high-ranking representatives of the SS, the NSDAP, and various ministries met in a Wannsee villa to discuss the "Final Solution of the Jewish Question" and sign the plan to deport and murder millions of European Jews. The villa, now known as the Haus der Wannsee Konferenz (Am Großen Wannsee 56-58) coincidentally stood just 300 meters north of Liebermann's house, which the Nazis had already confiscated in 1940, eight years after the painter's death. On 15 March 1943, Liebermann's widow Martha, in her 80s and very sick, received a letter notifying her of her imminent deportation. She committed suicide in her home hours before the police arrived. www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower

concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride ever since its ruins were restored to their lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. present state in 1957. The old church’s Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from ruins now host an exhibition of before 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. and after photos documenting its Panoramastr. 1a. former splendor and showing the T: 030.24757537. In 1995, artist Christo S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Ku’damm before the bombs. Look wrapped up the up to admire what is left of the old Berliner Dom Reichstag in 100,000 mosaic. Open daily from 9am to The city’s neo-Renaissance sq.m. of polypropylene 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin. cathedral was begun in the late fabric. de. Breitscheidplatz. 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, in simplified form after WWII damage. Kurfürstendamm. C4 Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms in 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grace in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime

Know Your Berries What are all these fabulous berries flooding farmers’ markets this time of year? Erdbeeren are the sweet-tasting strawberries we all know and love. Heidelbeeren (blueberries), Himbeeren (raspberries), and Brombeeren (blackberries) are also a familiar sight. Sweet or sour, all of these fleshy little fruits make for the perfect summer snack – gobbled up quickly, baked into cakes, mixed with milk and sugar, or turned into juice and enjoyed with cold sparkling water (a mixture known as Schorle) on a hot day. You can even pick your own right off the bush at Berliner Beerengarten (www. berlinerbeerengarten.de), which has several locations across Berlin and its surroundings.

This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

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Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and

the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Karls-Erlebnisdorf What began as a family-run strawberry farm has blossomed into an amusement park empire. With seven locations, including one just west of Berlin city limits, Karls Erlebnisdorf offers year-round fun for the whole family. Sample the famous Karl's strawberries and all sorts of berry treats, take a ride down the roller coaster or giant potato sack slide, and have all sorts of memorable adventures. Open daily 8am–7pm. www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SIGHTSEEING

Let‘s go up!

Price per activity varies. www.karls.de. Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal. T: 038.2024050. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS

Madame Tussauds

Berliner Unterwelten

(Underground Tours) Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other has been offering regular tours of underground famous names in entertainment and politics. And, structures and subterranean complexes that are yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, little man standing in despair in his bunker during Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). to the West, and WWII bunkers are just €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book some of the adventures on offer. From online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets Brunnenstr. 105. available. www.madametussauds. T: 030.49910517. com. Unter den Linden 74. To see what the Berlin S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3 Sea Life & AquaDom

Wall really looked like, visit the last remaining untouched stretch at Bernauer Straße.

Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

www.tv-turm.de

In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr. Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

CooLTourings Segway Tours

Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

Schiffskontor Here you can rent a charter boat for that special occasion in various styles from bygone eras. Tours include along the River Spree to the historical city center or further east to the canals of Neu-Venedig. www.schiffskontor.de. Am Speicher 7. T: 030 246479960. S Rummelsburg.

Spreeboote This boat rental company offers pedal boats, motorboats, and electric boats. Many are licensefree, however, a skipper can be booked upon request, as well as a selection of picnic, barbecue, and beverage boxes. www.spreeboote.de. Zur alten Flussbadeanstalt 5. S Rummelsburg.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

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just 60 km from Berlin

Take a break

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

The Year Is 1968 The Bröhan-Museum (p. 37) is mainly known for its unrivalled collection of art nouveau, art deco, and functionalism pieces, but it also aims to introduce relevant contemporary relevant issues to encourage different perspectives of art understanding. This month, the museum will present a pair of special exhibitions examining the significance of 1968, a year of worldwide protests for social change and equality that affected both the Americas and Europe. Until 3 October, the exhibitions will be exploring the protests' influence on the visual arts. Jablonec 68 – The East-West-JewelrySummit, the first of the two exhibitions, marks the 50th anniversary of the first International Silver Jewelry Symposium, held

in 1968 during the Prague Spring in the northern Bohemian city of Jablonec na Nisou. The symposium saw jewelry artists from both Eastern and Western Europe work together in an unprecedented, unifying event where they produced beautiful and innovative jewelry, including brooches, necklaces, and bracelets, out of silver, glass, slate, and semi-precious stones. For the first time since the Prague Spring, 70 of the works born from the workshop will be exhibited together, tracing the contemporary history of designer jewelry in the last fifty years and its impact. The second half the double exhibition takes us to Paris, where the sense of solidarity for Paris’s student and worker protests in 1968 gave life to the graphic design collective Grapus. Skepticism of capitalism, commercial

advertising, and the goals of the international peace movement fueled the collective’s belief that art and design could contribute to social change, and their innovation propelled art and design into new territory. While creating designs for the French Communist Party, unions, social organizations, and cultural institutions, Grapus made pioneering strides in graphic design by incorporating handwriting, blurred photographs, staining, heavy use of primary colors, and collages. The collective disbanded in the early 1990s, but their innovative visual language lives on and continues to influence graphic design today. Grapus – A French Collective of Graphic Designers examines that lasting influence half a century later.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BROEHAN MUSEUM.

Serene Tseng set off to learn more about how 1968 changed Europe forever.

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MUSEUMS

(under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 15 Jul: Concordia - Art and Science in Harmony. Leo von Klenze and Karl Richard Lepsius. Two artists' work that fused archaeology with art. To 16 Sep: Wanderlust. From Caspar David Friedrich to Auguste Renoir. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of Orientation Along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Oct: Jablonec 68 The East-West-Jewelry-Summit. Celebrating the past 50 years of jewelry history and artisans kickstarted by the Prague Spring. To 3 Oct: Grapus - A French Collective of Graphic Designers. Following the world and legacy of French graphic design of the past 50 years. www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 6 Jan: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. To 26 Aug: Saving – History of a German Virtue. Exploring how saving became a behavior linked to Germany. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4

permanen

(worth

Erlebnis Europa

Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European Visit the Märkisches languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Museum for an overview Free Admission. of the city's 750 years www.erlebnis-europa.eu. of history. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

open daily:

(24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m. Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

2707

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum

3360

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 €/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 €/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until September, 30th 2018.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

2,80 €)

Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 31 Aug: Flesh | Meat. Between life and death is meat and our relationship to It. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

www.daliberlin.de

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 20 Aug: Lesbian Visions. A relook at the dominant perspective of artists who traditionally exhibit in museums. To 31 Dec: Year of the Women*. Twelve months of programs, exhibitions, lectures, and transformation. To 5 Jan: 12 Moons. A yearlong program featuring films by feminist filmmakers and video artists. To 31 Jan: Spirits. The museum's café transforms into an interactive exhibition space for sharing. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum

©ISTOCK

Altes Museum

MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To Spring 2019: Welcome to Jerusalem.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's garden Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. From 24 Aug: From Rembrandt's Workshop. Drawings from the Rembrandt School. Exploring the times when the works of the Dutch master were confused with those of his students. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum

Mendelssohn Exhibit

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. To 14 Sep: BIZIM BERLIN 89/90. Photographs by Ergun Çagatay. Photographic documents of the German Reunification through the lens of Berlin's Turkish population. Free admission until 9 June. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

A Jewish Enlightenment philosopher, a worldrenowned composer, and generations of bankers made the history of the influential Mendelssohn family, whose members were persecuted as Jews despite having converted to Christianity. Daily noon–6pm. € free. www.mendelssohngesellschaft.de. Jägerstr. 51. T: 030.81704726. U Französische Straße. E3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 5 Aug: Welt ohne Außen. A dive into the immersive practices that reduce the distance between subject and object. To 5 Aug: Philippe Parreno. Using the exhibition as a medium exploring light, sound, and image. To 22 Jul: Covered in Time and History: The Films of Ana Mendieta. Using the female form to explore body art, the environment, and nature. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Her year-long residency explores states between documentary and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts and 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Barberini Potsdam Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism. With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free). Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6. T: 0331 236014499. Off Map

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 18 Nov: Between Art & Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. To 7 Oct: Artist Complex. Photographic Portraits from Baselitz to Warhol. Works from photographer Angelika Platen. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum of Musical Instruments

The Wonders Of Yemen The home of one of the oldest crossroads of East and West, Yemen is also known for its diverse architecture that came from centuries of adapting to the country’s unique topography and climate. Coasts, plains, highlands, and terraced fertile lands are dotted by geometric forts, ornate fortifications and towers, and villages. The balance and splendor of Yemeni architecture, captured in photographs by architect and anthropologist Trevor Marchand, however, do not show Yemen’s current dire situation. The ongoing humanitarian crises, violence, and famine threaten to destroy these architectural achievements and historical sites. Buildings That Fill My Eye: The Architectural Heritage of Yemen, showing at the Pergamon Museum (p. 39), aims to bring attention to these pressing issues to preserve Yemen’s heritage and ensure the country’s future. Until 14 October.

A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and

SANAA, BLICK AUF DAS QASIMI-VIERTEL DER ALTSTADTFOTO: T. MARCHAND

Museum of Photography

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telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Museum The Kennedys When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. This museum is a tribute to him and his family. Films, photographs, and even comic books tell us about his visit to Berlin, his assassination, and his children. Open Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 7 Oct: Margiana. A Bronze Age Kingdom in Turkmenistan. Objects from the ancient kingdom, shown for the first time outside of Turkmenistan. To Sep 2019: The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

For Explorers! Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | www.sdtb.de |

/deutschestechnikmuseum

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. To 14 Oct: Buildings that Fill My Eye: The Architectural Heritage of Yemen. Sharing the richness and splendor of Yemeni architecture and geography. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. www.wheretraveler.com 39

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 15 Oct: Loredana Nemes. Photographs 2008-2017. Exploring themes of barely-suppressed energy, on the brink of change. To 3 Sep: Carsten Nicolai. Straddling the line between visual art and electronic sound. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 23 Sep: Wim Wenders. Instant Stories. Over 200 of Wenders's polaroid shots. To 23 Sep: The Polaroid Project. Dedicated to the influential and unique instant camera. To 23 Sep: C/O Berlin Talent Award. Stefanie Moshammer. not just your face honey. The first winner of the talent award presents her work exploring reality, fiction, and truth in photographic images. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun

From Humble Beginnings For architects, the sketchbook is where the greatest ideas are born. From the pencil first scratching on the paper to the ink filling out the sheet, the architect formulates the concepts that become very tangible structures. These sketches lead to the consideration of how we interact with the structures and how the structure fits in its environment. Opening Lines: Sketchbooks of Ten Modern Architects, showing at the Tchoban Foundation – Museum for Architectural Drawing, features 80 architectural illustrations, from quick, spontaneous sketches to large detailed drawings to the final blueprint. Until 7 October. Christinenstr. 18a. T: 030.43739090. www.tchoban-foundation.de.

10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 26 Aug: Hello World. Revisioning a Collection. g. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 18 Nov: Between Art and Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-inchief of Italian Elle and Vogue. Tue–Sun 10am– 6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton. com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee The former summer residence of artist Max

Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 27 Aug: Outlook: EVA & ADELE - L'AMOUR DU RISQUE. Presenting the artist couple's multi-medium work in the last 25 years. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

PHOTO BY ROLAND HALBE, COURTESY OF THE TCHOBAN FOUNDATION

With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. Opening on 27 Sep 2018 in its new location. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www. deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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THE GUIDE | DINING

Top right: Freiluftkino Kreuzberg; This photo and left: stills from the This photo and inset, below: Ushido; Jewish Film Festival. right: the interior of Gogogi.

Savor The Sizzle

USHIDO: COURTESY OF USHIDO; GOGOGI: @ ETT LA BEN.

Get all that tasty grill flavor with none of the hassle, says Hilda Hoy. Ah, summer – or as many Germans like to call it, Grillsaison. Wherever you’re from, summertime is simply synonymous with the mouthwatering aroma of sizzling meat. Though many of Berlin’s parks fill up on sunny afternoons with the smoky haze from picnickers browning Bratwurst, there’s a much easier and even more delicious option: Just head to a restaurant where tabletop grilling is the specialty. With warm hospitality, a lovely terrace, and some of the most delicious Turkish flavors this side of Istanbul, Fes (Hasenheide 58, www.fes-turkishbbq.de) is a personal favorite. Each table at this stylish, modern grillhouse comes equipped with a gas grill, enabling diners to sear beautifully tender cuts of lamb, beef, or chicken to just the right degree of sizzle. Besides rice and crusty bread, accompaniments

include a selection of colorful meze sides so tasty they can easily upstage the main act, like mini fried peppers, crispy phyllo pastry cigars stuffed with cheese, spiced tomato-paprika dip with crunchy almonds, and smoky eggplant puree. Round it off with some refreshing rounds of raki, the anise-flavored spirit that Turks consider their national drink. From the other side of the globe comes another beloved grilling tradition: Book yourself in for dinner at the Korean restaurant Gogogi (Weinbergsweg 24, www.gogogi.de) to savor barbecue with an Asian twist. Beef, pork, or chicken are seasoned with marinades including soy sauce, rice wine, garlic, and a few secret ingredients before getting sizzled on a grill at the table, served with rice and housemade kimchi. Committed to serving only the very best, the Mitte restaurant uses free-range,

organic meat for every dish. Just as enticing as the grilling is the selection of Korean drinks, from traditional spirits and plum wine to boozy cocktails with fresh juices. Like Korea, Japan also its own yakiniku grilling tradition. In Prenzlauer Berg is Berlin’s very first yakiniku restaurant, where you can savor some of the best beef in the world grilled exactly how you want it. Ushido (Lychener Str. 18, www.ushido-bbq.com) means “the way of beef,” and true to name, the menu offers a wide variety of the most tender, tasty beef, plus equally grill-suited delicacies like Black Tiger shrimp, scallops, pork belly, and vegetables like pumpkin and lotus root. Connoisseurs will go straight for Japan’s famed Wagyu beef, unrivalled in flavor and tenderness. Meat this good needs nothing more than a searing on the tabletop grill to be melt-in-your-mouth delicious. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz

For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez

Skykitchen

FINE DINING

Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly

Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tim Raue

Kushinoya

From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str.

Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the

Irresistible Scoops It is an undeniable culinary truth: Nobody does ice cream quite as well as the Italians. To cool down this month with the best Italian gelato in town, there are two addresses you need to know: The first is Cuore di Vetro (Max-Beer-Str. 33, www.cuoredivetro. berlin) in Mitte, near Weinmeisterstraße. Every batch of delectable gelato is made right on site using the best-available ingredients for the creamiest, richest flavors. The variety of luscious chocolate options ranges from vegan chocolate sorbet to and “Black Star,” a posthumous homage to David Bowie: roasted chestnut gelato, chocolate ganache, and a hint of smoky aroma from a Cuban cigar. Down in Kreuzberg is the newer DUO (Skalitzer Str. 77, www.duoicecream.de), which sticks close to Italian gelato traditions as well as branching out into trendy and vegan options like avocado. For a real taste of Sicily, try the “Etna” flavor, a blend of almond, pistachio, and a pinch of ash from the island’s active volcano. Other Sicilian specialties include granita, a refreshing, dairy-free slush made from almond milk, and the “Eis Burger,” gelato sandwiched in a fluffy brioche.

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

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Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Servus Bavaria! Delicious german food and drinks at Maximilians.

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

www.spindlerklatt.berlin Köpenicker Str. 16 / 17 | Kreuzberg

French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne www.wheretraveler.com 43

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DINING sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Le Faubourg

Grill Royal

Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing

Modern Hellenic dishes Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus

German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck

German. This quaint,

Berliner Weisse is a pale cottage-style building was first German. With delightful dishes ale brewed only in the constructed in the 1800s, when it from Berlin’s traditional cuisine and capital and usually served as a tollhouse for passing a menu that changes every month, served with a shot of steamboats, then painstakingly the Nante Eck restaurant offers a syrup. restored after WWII. Today, it’s a refined cuisine made with fresh local canal-side restaurant serving elevated ingredients. Specialties include extra-big German cuisine created from the finest currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.6923300. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2 U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Modern German cuisine

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

Wichertstraße 55 10439 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg phone +49 (0)30 40 04 57 55 open Tue – Sat restaurant: 18:00 – 24:00 kitchen: 18:00 – 22:30 www.walid-speisemeisterei.de

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the

Neumond

German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D.www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

Paris-Moskau French/German. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it's an upscale destination seamlessly incorporating French, German, and Russian culinary influences. €€€. MonFri L&D, Sat D only. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the

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look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. C5

Restaurantschiff Capt'n Schillow German. Climb aboard this quaint boat restaurant at the western edge of Tiergarten to enjoy classic German fish delicacies like cured herring, grilled pike perch fillets, and North Sea shrimp, plus a relaxing brunch menu on weekends. Book in advance to take a chartered cruise through the surrounding waterways. €€. Daily L&D, breakfast Sat & Sun. Closed Mon–Tue Oct–Dec. www.capt-schillow.de. Str. des 17. Juni 113, next to Charlottenburger Tor. T: 030.31505015. S Tiergarten. C3

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Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweissberlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30 10178 Berlin 030 - 67 96 65 52 0 reservierung@berlin-hofbraeu.de www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de/Berlin

here in the nt atmosp ntire te y rt a p n g the e Bavaria erlin durin heart of B est time. rf e b kto sic Munich O re with mu atmosphe d. st n e a rf b e b w us Sho Real Okto Hofbräuha l a in g ri o of the

www.1687.berlin

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Walid German. Contemporary, pared-down, and topquality renditions of classic German dishes, from schnitzel to asparagus soup to Könisberger Klopse meatballs. The compact menu changes seasonally to take advantage of the best produce available from the region. €€. Tue–Sat D. www.walid-speisemeisterei.de. Wichertstr. 55. T: 030.40045755. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

SPRE

Zeit für Brot

German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Str. des 17. Juni

Pariser Platz

Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.

Zillemarkt

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

Wilhelmstraße

German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food culture. Zeit für Brot—“Time for Bread”—is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €. Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780. U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin open from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. / Sunday closed www.wheretraveler.com 45

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DINING

ITALIAN

occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20. T: 030.6188098. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Barist

I Due Forni

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business

Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

Café Aroma Italian. A longstanding neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and

Italofritzen Italian. Everyone’s favorite food: traditional

Italian pizza, homemade pasta, fresh mozzarella and tomato, good ham, cappuccino, and cornetti pastries done just the way you love it! www.friedrichs106.de. Friedrichstr. 105. T: 030.40040600. S+U Friedrichstraße E3

MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

OTHER Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant near Kottbusser Tor is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Rio Grande International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. MayAyim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. U Schlesisches Tor.

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

The food we ate and loved as kids never quite loses its appeal. That’s part of the reason why adults of all stripes love The Big Dog, the newest dining option on Potsdamer Platz, which shines the spotlight on – you guessed it – the hot dog. The other reason: These dogs are damn tasty, and fun to eat to boot. Decked out like a funky Americanstyle diner, The Big Dog has eight hot dogs on the menu, served in newsprint-lined baskets. The Hanswurst, for example, is a juicy bratwurst in a whole-grain bun, loaded with sauerkraut, crispy onions, and Bavarian obazda cheese spread. The Dogzilla twists it up with a beef sausage, wasabi, shrimp, and seaweed flakes, while the Groovy Gonzales sees the wiener stuffed into a brioche bun with guacamole, melty cheese, spicy jalapeños, and more. Splurge on one of the “Fancy Fries,” which come smothered in tasty toppings. And to top it all off, there’s a broad selection of craft beers. It’s a fun, irreverent twist on dining one wouldn’t normally expect from a 5-star hotel: The Big Dog is housed in a ground-floor corner of the Marriott Hotel. Ebertstr. 3. T: 030.220005440. www.thebigdog.de

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836. U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

Hot Diggety Dog!

Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

A performance at Tanz im August.

Don’t Stop The Dance

BALLET LYON GRANDES FUGUES ANNE TERESA DE KEERSMAEKER; CREDIT STOFLETH; CONSTANZA MACRAS DORKY PARK CHATSWORTH, MANUEL OSTERHOLT; IAN DOUGLAS; COURTESY OF TANZ IM AUGUST.

Annabelle Mallia interprets the language of dance at Berlin’s famed festival Tanz im August., If the vibrancy of summer gets you in the mood for dancing, you’re not alone. From 10 August to 2 September, one of Europe’s most important and celebrated dance festivals, Tanz im August, returns for its 30th consecutive year with a lineup of talented troupes from around the world. The festival opens with the Ballet de l’Opéra de Lyon performing Trois Grandes Fugues at Haus der Berliner Festpiele. Three renowned representatives of contemporary dance, Lucinda Childs, Maguy Marin, and Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker, have created choreographies to Beethoven’s 1825 Große Fuge. Each choreographer interprets the composition in a highly unique way, whether through a vibrating study, a dynamic struggle, or a clear analysis of Beethoven's piece. Another highlight is genre-exploding Big Dance Theater from New York. Their new performance, 17c, pulls apart the diaries of Samuel Pepys, Secretary to the Admiralty in the British Royal Navy. His intimate and meticulous

portrait is complemented by the voice of his contemporary, the English writer Margaret Cavendish, resulting in an astute mix of dance, text, music, and video. Well known for his powerful choreographies and dance deconstructions of hip-hop, Bruno Beltrão ponders the political situation in his home country, Brazil, and asks how our environment influences us against a backdrop of corruption. Ten dancers from his company, Grupo de Rua, play out these interdependencies via dramatic encounters of aggression, excess, confrontation, and commonality in his dance show, INOAH. As the dancing continues at the HAU Hebbel am Ufer, Berlin-based choreographer Constanza Macras / Dorkypark presents

the world premier of Chatsworth. Named after one of the townships in Durban where Indian immigrants were relocated during apartheid, the piece shows how this mass exodus relates to the intersections of multiculturalism. For details on performance dates, visit www.tanzimaugust.de.

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ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 25, 26 Aug: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 30 Aug: La Traviata (Verdi). 31 Aug: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. Summer break. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrenstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. Summer break. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. Summer break. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round.

www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 31 Aug: Pianist Alexnader Melnikov plays Claude Debussy. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

SUMMERTIME! MUSIC UNDER THE STARS WALDBÜHNE 18 Aug: Harry Potter 19 Aug: West-Eastern Divan Orchestra 24 Aug: Andrea Bocelli

CITADEL MUSIC FESTIVAL 6 Aug: Steel Panther 17 Aug: Santana 21 Aug: A-HA 24 Aug: Fat Freddy's Pop

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 3–20 Aug: Young Euro Classics 2018. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 24 Aug: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Petrenko) perform Strauss, Beethoven. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Carlos Santana

ROCK, POP, JAZZ BRITNEY SPEARS 6 Aug, Mercedes-Benz Arena

JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE 12 and 13 Aug, Mercedes-Benz Arena

U2 31 Aug, Mercedes-Benz Arena

DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE 25, 26 Aug, Deutsche Oper

YOUNG EURO CLASSIC 3–20 Aug, Konzerthaus

Take On Me The iconic Norwegian pop-trio of the 1980s, A-HA made their breakthrough with international hit Take On Me, but they are still considered a true pioneer in music and video technology. Recently, they dazzled audiences on their MTV Unplugged tour by playing 100% acoustically. In contrast, their Electric Summer Tour 2018 sees them (as expected and loved) playing a full electro set of new and classic hits, together with band and string sections. Don’t miss their performance at Berlin's Renaissance fortress, the Spandau Citadel, on 21 August. Am Juliusturm 64. T: 030 3549440. www.zitadelle-berlin.de

THEATER & MUSICALS BLUE MAN GROUP All month, Bluemax Theater

FINALE Until 19 Aug, Chamäleon Theater

CIRCA'S PEEPSHOW From 24 Aug, Chamäleon Theater

CABARET All month, Tipi am Kanzleramt

A-HA: CMS SOURCE ©JUST LOOMIS ; CARLOS SANTANA: © MARYANNE BILHAM.

BALLET & CLASSICAL

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Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Starting August 22, 2018

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5 The evening is hosted by:

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

22.08. – 11.11. 14.11. – 25.11. 28.11. – 09.12. 12.12. – 13.01. 16.01. – 20.01. 23.01. – 24.02.

Director: Jean-Rodrigue Funke

www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

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ENTERTAINMENT

A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

The Sound Of Pop There is arguably no other music genre that covers so wide a swathe of what we listen to today. So what makes pop music pop, and what gives it such broad appeal? The annual Pop-Kultur festival explores such questions with three days of concerts, DJ nights, exhibitions, talks, film screenings, and more, with the aim of fostering interdisciplinary exchange and cross-genre collaboration. Taking place at the Kulturbrauerei from the 15th–17th of this month, the program of the multifaceted festival includes performances from long-influential pop/hip hop artist Neneh Cherry, American singer-songwriter and composer John Maus, the London-based, genrebending artist known as Ghostpoet, and many more, as well as specially commissioned creative works. For the rising stars of the next generation, the festival’s “Nachwuchs” talent program supports up-and-coming new musicians with a series of talks, workshops, and networking opportunities. www.pop-kultur.berlin

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays.

www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 6 Aug: Britney Spears. 12 and 13 Aug: Justin Timberlake. 31 Aug and 1 Sep: U2. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

NENEH CHERRY, PHOTO BY KIM HIORTHOY.

Lights... Camera... Berlin!

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THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. Until 19 Aug: Finale. From 24 Aug: Circa's Peepshow. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin

THE MUSICAL

July 20 to September 23 www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de Suitable for international guests

MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. With English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße. Off map.

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. All month: Cabaret. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. From 22 Aug: Staunen, Circus of Stars. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 www.wheretraveler.com 51

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this photo: the terrace at House of Weekend; the rooftop of Klunkerkranich; the terrace at ZOE. Inset, below: House of Weekend.

Drinks With A View Berlin, a flat and sprawling metropolis built on a literal swamp, is not exactly known for its dazzling heights. Nonetheless, the city is home to numerous high-up hotspots where sunsets, starry skies, and cool breezes are the main attractions. I’m talking rooftop bars, of course. Summer doesn’t feel like summer until a night out at one of them. The first rooftop to visit has got to be Klunkerkranich, a free-spirited compound built out of recycled materials on the roof of a mall parking lot (Karl-Marx-Str. 66 – 5th floor, www.klunkerkranich.de). Bar, club, event space, and community garden rolled into one, Klunkerkranich has a kooky, DIY feel that exemplifies the creative spirit of the Neukölln neighborhood. The views are fantastic, and amongst garden beds filled with flowers and herbs is plenty of lounge seating to chill out and sip a drink in the glow of a golden sunset. On most nights of the week, there’s live music or DJs to keep the fun and dancing going until late. Head even higher at House of Weekend

(Alexanderstr. 7, www.houseofweekend. berlin), towering 17 stories over Alexanderplatz. Though the main dance floors of this longstanding club are located inside, the rooftop terrace hosts regular open-air parties throughout the summer and opens from 7pm for after-work sundowner drinks. The glass barrier grants stunning, unobstructed views across Alexanderplatz and beyond, with an up-close angle on the TV Tower as you’ve never seen it before. If you prefer your bars on the smaller, more exclusive side, Mitte’s AMANO Hotel and nearby sister hotel ZOE (Auguststr. 43 and Große Präsidentenstr. 6-7, www.amanogroup.de) both feature secluded rooftop bars complete with shaded lounge areas, fresh breezes, and

sweeping views. The ZOE rooftop shares the same menu as the hotel’s downstairs G&T bar, specializing in – you guessed it – the Gin & Tonic. Choose from an impressive assortment of both gins and tonic waters from around the world. Another hotel that’s mastered the rooftop bar feature is the 25hours Hotel out west near Bahnhof Zoo, which features the buzzing, boho-chic Monkey Bar (Budapester Str. 40, www. monkeybarberlin.de) up on the penthouse level. Great drinks, a spacious terrace, and views onto the treetops of Tiergarten Park and the zoo make this a perfect spot on summer evenings, but beware: When the weather’s fine, the line to get in can build by mid-afternoon.

HOUSE OF WEEKEND: COURTESY OF HOUSE OF WEEKEND; KLUNKERKRANICH: COURTESY OF KLUNKERKRANICH; ZOE: COURTESY OF THE AMANO GROUP.

Nowhere better on these long summer nights than a breezy rooftop bar, Hilda Hoy swears.

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen,, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café

WINE & COCKTAILS

A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Bar Tausend

Times Bar

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances © ISTOCK.

final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE

A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. Savignyplatz. C4

High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

The classy and classic Victoria Bar pours champagne by the glass and mixes a variety of fantastic champagne cocktails. www.victoriabar.de

Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

THE PEARL

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

€

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables. Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends. In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”). Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip

from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Public Transport

54 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2018

WB AUGUST ESSENTIALS.indd 54

13/07/2018 12:26

ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI The rumors are true – Uber is banned in Berlin. Hail a ride using the My Taxi app instead, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

www.wheretraveler.com 55

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WHERE NOW | URSULA HEINZELMANN

My Berlin

URSULA HEINZELMANN FOOD WRITER

How did you end up so passionate about cheese and making it the focus of your work? Unintentionally, my whole career has evolved around food and wine, and during the last five years or so cheese crystallized into the center of my work. It found me more than I chose it. The English think that the moon is made of cheese – it certainly acts as my benevolent guiding star, making me discover new landscapes and cultures and connecting me with great people. What can people expect when they attend one of your HeinzelCheeseTalks? It is a very relaxed affair: two entertaining hours filled with delicious, unusual, sometimes challenging cheeses, and accordingly, wines. We sit around one large table at Markthalle Neun with like-minded, equally curious people and hopefully I’ll make you all discover new shores and horizons. If you had to be stranded on a desert island, which cheeses would you take with you? A year-old alpine hard cheese from Alpe Loch in Bregenzerwald/Austria, as it would remind me of lush, green meadows and cows’ bells; a Harbison, the spruce-bound, delightful soft cheese from the incredible Jasper Hill Creamery gang who are making Vermont’s Northeast

Kingdom cool again; and finally Joe Schneider’s Stichelton, this ongoing, delicious exploration of Stilton’s unpasteurized past. If Berlin were a type of cheese, what kind would it be? Smelly and fascinating and at first perhaps a bit off-putting but then utter delight, such as a truly ripe Harzer, Tilsiter or Epoisses. Your book Beyond Bratwurst broadly explores the history of German food. What was one of the most surprising things you learned during this research? The hardest and most revealing and inspiring part was to understand how over the millennia and centuries, a lack of food influences a culture’s DNA. Broken systems, wars, and borders leave marks wherever and whenever they happen, and on all levels. Which places in Berlin would you recommend for someone wanting to explore cheese or German cuisine? Maître Philippe & Filles (www.maitrephilippe.de) for French cheeses (and beyond), Alte Milch (www.

altemilch.de) for a great (if smallish) international selection and a new kind of cheese-mongering, and Rogacki (www.rogacki.de) for food in general – a walk-in, living history lesson in Berlin and food in all kinds of ways. Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? Wake up early to the sun and the birds, have tea on my balcony, go for a run around Museum Island, marveling once again about the fact that the Wall did come down, then have dark sourdough bread, quark, and more tea for breakfast. Write a good piece for a good editor or publisher or my website. Finally, walk through the Tiergarten to the Wu family’s Chinese restaurant Hot Spot (www.restaurant-hotspot.de) to meet friends for a long, leisurely dinner, with a lot of shared dishes from pidan eggs and bang bang ji chicken to mala – hot pork liver and fried carp, all washed down with a whole range of Riesling wines chosen by Wu himself. I’d take along some cheese, and he’d bring fermented, “stinky” tofu to the table in return, and we’d be so happy. Clockwise from top left: A cheesemonger; Ursula Heinzelmann; Markthalle Neun; raw milk cheese; a Chinese feast. Inset, left: Ursula Heinzelmann's book on the history of food in Germany.

Journalist, cookbook author, researcher, and evangelist for the finest gastronomic pleasures in life, Ursula has earned the well-deserved title of Germany’s most prominent expert in all things cheese. Besides penning books like Beyond Bratwurst: A History of Food in Germany, she also holds monthly HeinzelCheeseTalks every few weeks in Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun. Catch her talks this month on 3 and 24 August. www.heinzelcheese.de

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2018

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BERLIN 2018 EUROPEAN ATHLETICS CHAMPIONSHIPS S TICKET AT NG STARTI 15 €

DAS SPORT FESTIVAL

7–12 AUGUST 2018, OLYMPIC STADIUM TICKETS: WWW.BERLIN2018.INFO HOTLINE 01806 / 999 000 2018*

*0.20/FROM LOCAL LANDLINES/ MAX. 0.60/FROM GERMAN MOBILE NETWORK

B∙E∙S∙T∙ BERLIN ENTERTAINMENT SERVICE TEAM

WB LEICHTATHLETIK EM.indd 1

10/07/2018 11:36

25 °C in the shade. Yet you still have goosebumps. Make your summer unforgettable – and your sportscar dream come true. Exhilaration, adrenaline and goosebumps included. Visit us at www.porsche.de/drive and reserve your dream Porsche here in Berlin.

Fuel consumption (in l/100km) urban 13.3–10.3 · extra urban 7.6–6.5 · combined 9.7–7.9; CO₂ emissions combined 220–182g/km

AZ_Drive_WhereBerlin_206x276mm_RZ_DE_v2.indd 1 WB PORSCHE OBC.indd 1

28.06.18 09:09 10/07/2018 11:37