BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
WHERETRAVELER.COM
MARCH 2018
PICTURE PERFECT
FROM KATE MOSS TO MONICA BELLUCCI
Berlin’s Photography Museum presents the iconic fashion images of Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, and many more
PLUS ONLY IN BERLIN VIVE LA FRANCE!
SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS
BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS
PHOTO: MARC CAIN
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MALL OF BERLIN
Berlin
03.18
CONTENTS
See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
12
8 Hot Dates
Take a moment to sit down and appreciate a good cuppa.
Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from an opera festival and Planet Earth Live to Disney's rollerskating hit.
SIGHTSEEING
33
Revolutionary! Take a stroll through Prenzlauer Berg's history. MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
37
Examples of the best Renaissance art Europe has to offer.
24 8
Let them eat cake, so long as we can have a piece too, please.
18 58
20 Ask The Concierge
ENTERTAINMENT
47 47
Secure your tickets to MaerzMusik and explore the theme of time.
Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.
58 My Berlin
NIGHTLIFE
52 52
Friederike Ablang This Berlin-based illustrator translates the world into whimsical pictures.
Prost! Cocktail bars with a difference.
16
From transport to emergency numbers, useful information for your stay in Berlin.
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Where Now
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Unusual shapes, folds, and lines for a new angle to your wardrobe.
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A map of central Berlin
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ON THE COVER: KATE MOSS, PHOTO BY HELMUT NEWTON FOR YVES SAINT LAURENT, PARIS, 1993© HELMUT NEWTON ESTATE.
Dress to impress for the new exhibition at the Helmut Newton Foundation.
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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS
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16 Photo Zoo
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PLUS ONLY IN BERLIN VIVE LA FRANCE!
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Visit Berlin's oases of French culture and savor la vie française.
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Berlin’s Photography Museum presents the iconic fashion images of Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, and many more
18 Bonjour Berlin!
Where else in the world can you skate down a runway or swim in a zeppelin hangar?
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FROM KATE MOSS TO MONICA BELLUCCI
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WHERETRAVELER.COM
ESSENTIALS
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Ebertstr.
BERLIN CITY GUIDE
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
DINING
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Ella-Tre reb be-Str.
ITB: COURTESY OF ITB; CHANEL PERFUMES, PEACOCK ISLAND: © ISTOCK; HELMUT NEWTON, THIERRY MUGLER MILAN 1998 © HELMUT NEWTON ESTATE; ILLUSTRATION BY FRIEDERIKE ABLANG; BAG BY MARC CAIN
SHOPPING
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7 Editor’s Note
B Mu
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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
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Sarah Bethke
WELCOME TO BERLIN
A Unique City About a month ago, a local historian was enjoying a winter walk in a small forest in Pankow, near the SchÜnholz S-Bahn station, when he spotted a brick construction amid the trees. Upon closer inspection, he noticed that it was actually a small wall, lined with Y-shaped metal joints connected by barbed wire. It did not take him long to realize that it was a forgotten piece of the Berlin Wall. Berlin’s infamous barrier was supposed to have been entirely demolished since the late 1990s, but this find suggests that some stretches of it may still exist here or there. On a similar note, some construction workers near Mauerpark recently discovered the entrance to a tunnel, which proved to be an escape tunnel fron East Berlin to the inside of a building in the West. When the story appeared on the news, a certain Mr. Holzapfel, now 73, called the paper to say that he had built it for his daughter and her friends, who were then caught in the escape attempt and arrested. In how many other cities that you know is history so intertwined with the everyday lives of its inhabitants? Yes, Berlin is really unique, and for lots of reasons. Turn to page 12 to discover them all. Enjoy your stay! SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
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HOT
DATES March in Berlin is filled with exciting events, from tap dance and live music to opera festivals.
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PLANET EARTH II TUESDAY
Breathtaking landscapes and rare animal sightings: This is the sequel of the groundbreaking BBC series with David Attenborough and the first natural history production filmed entirely in high definition. Don’t miss it playing on a huge Ultra HD screen while an 80-piece orchestra performs majestic compositions by Hans Zimmer, Jacob Shea, and Jasha Klebe. Live at MercedesBenz Arena Berlin. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de
8 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
13
STOMP! FROM TUESDAY
Described as a firework of rousing rhythms, this internationally acclaimed percussion band transforms everyday things like garbage bins and broomsticks into symphonic instruments. Founded in Brighton in the 1990s, Stomp! continues to thrill audiences with energetic shows. Countless imitators have tried and failed to copy the unbeatable original, which has stayed true to the motto “fresher, faster, funnier.” Until 18 March at Admiralspalast. www.mehr.de
24 FESTIVAL DAYS OF OPERA AND SYMPHONIC MUSIC FROM SATURDAY
It ain’t over until the fat lady sings! This year, the famous, 10-day-long Festtage opera festival returns to its original home at the Staatsoper Unter den Linden theater after its lengthy renovations. This edition's program features two extraordinary operas, Giuseppe Verdi’s Falstaff and Richard Wagner’s Parsifal, as well three concerts, performed at the Philharmonie, focusing on Gustav Mahler and Claude Debussy, two pioneers of modern music. An absolute must for classical music fans. www.staatsoper-berlin.de
SOY LUNA
22
THURSDAY
After great success on the Disney Channel telenovela and a sold-out tour through South America, Soy Luna brings Karol Sevilla (Luna), Ruggero Pasquarelli (Matteo), and the rest of the original cast live on stage at Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin. The story is about a 16-year-old girl who moves with her family from Mexico to Argentina and struggles to adjust to her new life, until she discovers a roller-skating club where she can prove herself on wheels. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 9
16
a THE TAP PACK FROM FRIDAY
The "Boys from Down Under" are back in Berlin, with their frenetic tap dance show and their sex appeal. For the whole second half of March, they will be hitting the stage of the Tipi am Kanzleramt tent to present powerful choreographies of well-known songs by singers like Bublé, Beyoncé, Sinatra, and many more, accompanied by live music and a pinch of Australian humor. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de/en
ST PATRICK’S DAY SATURDAY
Guinness all ‘round! Originally a church ceremony in honor of Saint Patrick, this Irish national holiday has turned into a celebration of Irishness around the globe. On 17 March, Irish pubs all over town open their doors to the easy going, friendly Irish attitude, live folk music, and plenty of drinks, while Urban Spree will be throwing a huge Saint Patrick's Day party at RAW Gelände in Friedrichshain. www.stpatricksfestival.de
1910
10 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
17 ITB FROM SATURDAY
Already dreaming of your next holiday? The ITB (International Tourism Board) is the world’s largest travel trade fair, with around 10,000 exhibitors from more than 180 countries and regions. By talking to tourism reps, tour operators, and airlines, and enjoying performances and food tasting, you can discover the whole world in just a few hours. All you need to do now is pack your bags! Open to the public for two days only at Messe Berlin. www.itb-berlin.de
MARCH
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
HOT DATES
Legendary synthpop duo Erasure is at Columbiahalle singing old and new hits. Bring some Kleenex to see Puccini's tragic opera Madama Butterfly at Deutsche Oper. Greenhouses become concert venues at the Botanical Garden's Palm Symphony night. Marvel at the stunning choreography of the Holiday on Ice show at Tempodrom. Big-time rapper Kendrick Lamar fills up Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight for a live show. The week-long Russian Ballet Festival starts today, with daily shows at Russisches Haus. Scottish indie rockers Franz Ferdinand play their brand-new album at Tempodrom. See Anna, Elsa, and other beloved characters in the Disney on Ice show at Velodrom. Start the weekend off with a lively night out at Kreuzberg's popular Luzia bar. Hear American indie favorites Calexico play this evening at Tempodrom. The classic story of Anatevka (aka. Fiddler on the Roof) is back at Komische Oper. The Houston Symphony Orchestra is at the Konzerthaus for a special Dvořák concert. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. The raucous rhythms of STOMP are at Admiralspalast all week – don't miss out! Get your heart thumping with the energetic Lord of the Dance show at Tempodrom. Alluring songstress Carla Bruni sings her new album French Touch at the UdK Konzertsaal. Hear Puccini's opera Turandot – including the famed Nessun Dorma aria – at Deutsche Oper. This one's for you Bee Gees fans: the Masssachusetts musical at Tempodrom. Gone, but not forgotten: relive a legend at the Bowie Experience show at Tempodrom. See the Berlin Staatsballett dance the beautiful Swan Lake at Deutsche Oper. Bonnie Tyler, of Total Eclipse of the Heart fame, sings her heart out at Friedrichstadt-Palast. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. Craft beer fans: check out the impressive range of brews at Neuölln's Muted Horn bar. Celebrate the weekend with dinner and a night of dancing at Mitte's chic Bar Tausend. Enjoy a jazzy matinee at the Philharmonie featuring lively Benny Goodman tunes. At Friedrichstadt-Palast, The Bar at Buena Vista delivers hot-blooded Cuban music. The eclectic, wildly fun electro-pop of Tune-Yards takes over Festsaal Kreuzberg. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." Relive the wild, free love '60s era with the musical HAIR, on stage at Admiralspalast. Take a break from the chilly weather at the tropical greenhouses at the Botanical Garden. Legends Martha Argerich & Daniel Barenboim play duets at the Philharmonie.
For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.
PLANET ERDE II: © BBC 2016; TAP PACK: COURTESY OF TAP PACK AND TIPI AM KANZLERAMT; SOY LUNA: COURTESY OF SOY LUNA PROMOTION; FESTTAGE: COURTESY OF STAATSOPER BERLIN; STOMP: PHOTO BY STEVE MC NICHOLAS; ITB: FANCYBOX.DE, COURTESY OF ITB; GUINNESS: © ISTOCK
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
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ONLY IN Hilda Hoy went looking for uniquely local experiences, and was not disappointed.
T
here’s truly no place in the world quite like Berlin. From its rich and troubled history to its indefatigable, stubbornly independent spirit, this city is in a category all its own. Channel the Berlin uniqueness with these local experiences you won’t get anywhere else.
12 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
Picnic with royal peacocks
Pfaueninsel, or Peacock Island, was once a private royal playground – today, it’s a popular destination for daytrippers, accessible via a short ferry ride across the Havel River. Friedrich Wilhelm II, the King of Prussia, liked to bring his young mistress here around the end of the 18th century, and had a palace built for her in the Romantic, imitationruins style popular at the time. His successor Friedrich Wilhelm III added a model farm and an island menagerie, which housed 900 animals from all over the world, from kangaroos to alligators to lions. Of those exotic beasts, only the peacocks remain today. The island, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is dotted with a variety of Prussian relics both grand and quaint, and majestic peacocks roam freely in the landscaped gardens. www.spsg.de
WHERE NOW | ONLY IN BERLIN
PEACOCK ISLAND AND PEACOCK: © ISTOCK; TEMPELHOF BIKING CC BY-NC 2.0 ANDI WEILAND / OHRENFLIMMERN.DE; MUSEUMWOHNUNG: COURTESY OF STADT UND LAND. NEXT PAGE: BOROS BUNKER AUSSENANSICHT FOTO © NOSHE; BOROSCOLLECTION KATJA NOVITSKOVA FOTO © NOSHE; TROPICAL ISLANDS: COURTESY OF TROPICAL ISLANDS; TELEDISKO: COURTEY OF TELEDISKO
Bike on an airport runway During the Berlin Airlift of 1948-49, Allied planes landed on the runways of Tempelhof Airport around the clock, defying the Soviet blockade and providing West Berliners with thousands of tons of food and fuel. Decades later, in 2008, the iconic airport on the border of the Neukölln and Tempelhof districts was closed to air traffic and soon reopened as a public park, one of the largest urban parks in
Europe at 386 hectares. Few changes have been made to the wide-open expanse of fields and tarmac since then. Rain or shine, the long, unobstructed runways of Tempelhofer Feld are popular not only with cyclists and joggers, but also with rollerbladers, skateboarders, Segway tours, and even daredevils giving kite landboarding (aka flyboarding) a go. www.gruen-berlin.de
Step back into East Germany
After the Berlin Wall came down and West and East were reunited, East Germany (the German Democratic Republic, or GDR) effectively ceased to exist. Though many of its unique ways of life have disappeared over the years, there’s one place in the district of Hellersdorf where you can step back in time. The Museumswohnung (Hellersdorfer Str. 179) is a carefully preserved apartmentturned-museum in a sprawling East Berlin housing complex. A total of 42,000 apartments of this prefabricated, highly uniform WBS 70 model were built in the 1980s in this district alone. From the wallpaper, carpets, and green velour sofa right down to the books and salt shakers, everything in the apartment is a GDR original, partially donated by residents in the building, a testament to what everyday life was like in a gone-but-not-forgotten society. Open Sundays 2–4pm. www.stadtundland.de w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 13
WHERE NOW | ONLY IN BERLIN
Sunbathe in a zeppelin hangar About 60 km south of Berlin, a massive metal dome – one of the largest freestanding structures in the world – rises abruptly out of the landscape. A passerby could never guess what hides inside: a balmy, tropical microclimate, including lush green plants, tranquil
pools, Balinese pavilions, and even luxurious huts for spending the night. The Tropical Islands waterpark is housed inside a converted zeppelin hangar, and replicates the experience of a beach holiday down to the very last detail. www.tropical-islands.de
See art in a bunker
Smack dab in the middle of Mitte, a concrete colossus sticks out like a sore thumb: a Nazi air raid shelter built in 1943 to protect up to 3000 civilians. After the war, the building – with walls up to three meters thick – proved impossible to demolish, and was used as a storage facility for bananas and, later, for notoriously hardcore techno parties. In 2003, art collector Christian Boros bought the bunker at Reinhardtstr. 20 and spent years converting it into a huge exhibition space for his sizeable collection, adding a penthouse in which he and his family live. It’s impossible to say what is more impressive: the imposing architecture, or the displays of cutting-edge, contemporary art. The current Boros Collection exhibition of installations, paintings, and videos includes works by such notable names as Ai Weiwei and Wolfgang Tillmans as well as up-andcoming young talents. Advance booking required. www.sammlungboros.de
14 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
Party in a phone booth
Berlin’s club scene needs no introduction – this city is well-known for loving a good party. But one of its most unique nightclubs is also one of its most overlooked – perhaps because it’s so small, you can walk right by without noticing. In fact, the Teledisko claims to be the smallest nightclub in the world. There are two of these converted, colorful phone booths stationed around the city: one inside the RAW complex in Friedrichshain (Revaler Str. 99), next to the Emma Pea café, and one in the Kater Blau club space (Holzmarktstr. 25). Just insert €2 worth of coins, pick your song on the touchscreen, step inside, and dance your heart out – because what happens in the teledisko, stays in the teledisko. www.teledisko.com
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The photo zoo
Serene Tseng discovers Berlin’s love of photography.
W
hat else can you find at Bahnhof Zoo aside from the zoo? Photography lovers! With two important photography hubs, the Museum of Photography (p. 40) and C/O Berlin (p. 40), the Zoologischer Garten area is where Berlin’s camera fans admire some of the best images from around the world. Let’s check out what’s on this month. Daring, innovative, and prolific. That was Helmut Newton, one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century.
His glamorous images, unflinchingly provocative, paved the way for modern fashion photography. Shortly before his death in 2004, Helmut and his wife June established the Helmut Newton Foundation, dedicated to the conservation of his and his wife’s oeuvre in dialogue with their contemporaries. Since then, the foundation has put on rotating exhibitions in Berlin, presenting Newton’s work with those of his peers at the Museum of Photography. Until 13 May, the foundation presents Guy Bourdin. Image Maker /
Helmut Newton. A Gun for Hire / Angelo Marino. Another Story. The first of the three-part exhibition, Image Maker showcases Guy Bourdin’s fashion photography, working with clients such as Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, and Charles Jourdan, often published in Vogue Paris. Enigmatic narratives and cinematic, vivid shots, along with a keen eye for light and shadow are characteristic of Bourdin, especially seen in his compositions for Charles Jourdan. Part two focuses on Helmut Newton’s
Photos from the exhibitions Guy Bourdin. Image Maker / Helmut Newton. A Gun for Hire / Angelo Marino. Another Story and SIgrid Neubert, Photographs: Architecture and Nature. 16 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
GUY BOURDIN - CHARLES JOURDAN, SPRING 1976/1978/MAY 1970, © GUY BOURDIN ESTATE, 2017 / COURTESY LOUISE ALEXANDER GALLERY; HELMUT NEWTON, THIERRY MUGLER, MILAN, 1998/ HELMUT NEWTON, BLUMARINE,
WHERE NOW | PHOTOGRAPHY LOVE IS EVERYWHERE
MONACO, 1994/ © HELMUT NEWTON ESTATE; SIGRID NEUBERT, ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF AND © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK / SIGRID NEUBERT
commissioned work for fashion designers. Cleverly named A Gun for Hire, the exhibition features Newton’s dramatized shots with hints of complexity and suspense. The staged-like qualities of the images, including shots for Absolut Vodka and Blumarine with Monica Bellucci, seem to blur the line between reality and fantasy. Presented together for the first time ever, Bourdin’s and Newton’s work show the pair’s joint legacy and influential vision. The third exhibition, Another Story, features works by Newton’s former assistant Angelo Marino. Over the course of numerous weeks, while on the road from Cannes to Monte Carlo, Marino captured his immediate surroundings in snapshotlike images with his smartphone. Using 52 panels, with five photographs on each panel, he recounts his journey over a span of 52 weeks. Refreshingly, the spontaneity
and candidness of the shots have a completely different feel to the planned compositions of Bourdin and Newton. Aside from Newton and his contemporaries, the Museum of Photography regularly showcases other photographer greats in dedicated exhibitions. German photographer Sigrid Neubert’s entire oeuvre, consisting of striking architecture and nature shots, is showing until 3 June. The retrospective Photographs: Architecture and Nature features her most famous works, such as the iconic shot of the BMW Tower in Munich and the grand and mysterious Megalithic Temples of Malta. As the photographer for numerous high-profile architecture firms, Neubert adeptly captures the buildings’ structural surface and detail with intense contrast. More recently, Neubert has expanded to nature
photography, still exhibiting her mastery with contrast and engagement with the subject. For an additional helping of stimulating visual art and photography, be sure to head down the street to C/O Berlin at the Amerika Haus, which presents three exhibitions this month. Joel Meyerowitz. Why Color? is a retrospective of the founder of Street and New Color Photography, who uses color to capture the intensity of each fleeting instance. Photographs from Torbjørn Rødland. Back in Touch curiously and uncomfortably captures the viewer’s attention with peculiar combinations of disparate elements. And from 24 Mar, the gallery will be showing the works of Irving Penn, who portrayed some of the icons of the 20th century including Marlene Dietrich, Picasso, and Alfred Hitchcock.
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WHERE NOW | VIVE LA FRANCE
BONJOUR BERLIN! Solveig Steinhardt visited Berlin’s oases of French culture
A
lthough Berlin and Paris are worlds apart, they have been closely connected since the late 1600s, when 20,000 French Huguenots settled in the city to escape Catholic France. Their community has since blended in with the local population, but the city still bears many signs of the Huguenot heritage:
Gendarmenmarkt, the French Dome, Oranienstraße, and the French cemetery were all founded by these French immigrants, who also left a mark on local language. Many of Berlin’s streets are Allees or Chaussees, a hairdresser is a Friseur, and a meat ball is a Bulette. If you want to savor la vie française while in Berlin, read on.
FUNKTURM EIFFEL It may not be as imposing, or tall, or even romantic as the Eiffel Tower, but Berlin does have its own Tour Eiffel. The Funkturm, built in the 1920 as a radio tower, was designed as a tribute to Paris for the opening of the Große Deutsche Ausstellung. In use until 1989, it now houses a restaurant and an observation deck on the top. Visit www.funkturmmesseberlin.de for hours and prices.
PAIN ET CROISSANTS Nothing shouts France more than a warm, crunchy baguette and a buttery croissant. Fortunately, French boulangeries abound in Berlin. There are a few chains, like the ubiquitous Le Crobag, selling French pastries and sandwiches, and the more upscale Aux Delices Normands, which also has good fresh bread and delicious quiches.
VIVE LA FRANCE! Where’s the best place to go for that sleek and chic Parisian look? Galeries Lafayette (www.galerieslafayette. de) of course! Located on Französische Straße (where else?) the Berlin branch of Paris’s famous department store has all you need if you want to exude that French vibe, from Chanel’s No. 5 perfume to Yves Saint Laurent’s bags or Louis Quatorze’s luxury accessories, as well as a well-stocked French bookstore. 18 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
At La Croissanterie (Hauptstr. 131) you can find a large selection of French pastries, including vegan ones, while nearby Aux Plaisirs (Belziger Str. 70) specializes in high-quality, authentic French patisserie, with tartes, quiches, petit fours, canapés, and much more. For something a bit more substantial, bistro Le Bretagne inside the Marheineke market (Marheinekeplatz 15) makes delicious gallettes bretonnes, which are savory, crunchy buckwheat flour pancakes filled with goat cheese, spinach, and egg.
SHOP: COURTES Y OF MAITRE PHILIPPE FROMAGES; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
FROMAGE ET VIN Galeries Lafayette also features a gourmet supermarket carrying everything from fresh camembert, macarons, and Danone yogurt, to Mariage Frères tea and Biscuiterie de Provence cookies. If you’re in for something really special, ask for the famous French caviar from the Bordeaux region, paired with a glass of Veuve Clicquot champagne. For more French delicacies, visit Maitre Philippe & Filles in Wilmersdorf (Emser Str. 42). In addition to top-quality cheeses, they also have a fabulous selection of wines and a real passion for sardines, sold in gorgeous collector’s tins.
Advertorial
Flic Flac presents We tried just about everything to have this show not happen! We watched all those comedians with our eyes closed to slits. We made prayer circles asking for help from above but no bolt of lightning came so we thought: OK - let’s do it anyway. Now we can’t hide it from you any longer – our NEW world is even crazier than we expected. Enjoy COMEDY from all 5 continents with star comedians like The Puppetry of the Penis (Australia) Daredevil Chicken Club (New York) El Tipo (Venezuela) David Eriksson (Sweden) The ARTISTIC acts are just as out of this world. In Freaks you will find a Russian strongman who already reached pensionable age
– The New show in Berlin and a beautiful fat lady on a swinging trapeze. And there shall be EROTIC - a lot of erotic. We have the Dutch Burlesque Queen Xarah von den Vielenregen and the sword swallowing beauty Beautiful Jewels - two goddesses of sensuality. The MUSIC is written and performed by Northern Lite - electro Old-School heroes who invented their own genre which has survived 20 years and is still as vital as ever it was. We are proud and happy to confirm that Northern Lite Front man and Singer Andreas Kubat HIMSELF will perform his own most famous songs during the show. We will experiment with another totally NEW addition to Circus and Variety - professional stage actors
who will play carefully chosen archetypes. They will tell our own little story instead of using a host or compere. Those actors are prepared to carry the show from one highlight to the next in outstanding stage FX make up with no political correctness whatsoever. The SHOW is designed to make you laugh, scream and look away. It is full of the violence to which it is strongly opposed. The show contains scenes of nudity and is therefore ONLY for spectators aged 16 or over. Flic Flac FREAKS will run daily at 8 pm from 01.03.2018 in the Flic Flac Show tent on the R.A.W. Area in Berlin Friedrichshain, Warschauer Straße. Daily updates on www.facebook.com/flicflacfreaks
Freak OUT or Freak OFF
Tickets are available at www.flicflac.de/freaks
Ask the
CONCIERGE
Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Hatem Ferjani, concierge at the Marriott Hotel, is here to help. www.lcdg.org
What does your perfect day look like? It begins with a cozy breakfast at Hotel am Steinplatz. Then, to recharge my batteries, I'll head to Vabali Spa (www.vabali.de) for a sauna and massage followed by a yoga or pilates class in the fitness area. In the evening, I like to enjoy a good meal at Ristorante a Mano (www.amanoristorante.de, Strausberger Platz 2). I am a lover of Italian cuisine, so this is always a special treat for me. Where do you take your visitors? To the well-known city sites, but also to the Charlottenburg Palace. Always an experience. Any secret tips? A secret tip for young and old is the Military History Museum in Gatow (www. luftwaffenmuseum.de). In addition to a permanent exhibition about the German air force (1956 - 2006), the museum explores the history of military aviation. Describe Berlin in three words. Cheeky, warm, multicultural. Where can you best relax in this big city? A hamam offers a good opportunity to relax. I recommend the Sultan Hamam at Bülowstr. 57. Favorite German food? Good, modern German cuisine can be
enjoyed at the restaurant Joseph Roth Diele on Potsdamer Str. 75. Most romantic place in Berlin? For romantics, there is no better place than the Solar Sky Lounge at Anhalter Bahnhof. This bar with a 270-degree panoramic view at a height of 70 meters is definitely worth a visit. Any nightlife recommendations? For night owls, I recommend a visit to Monkey Bar next to the Bikini Haus and then a fun evening at club The Pearl (www. thepearl-berlin.de). What is the best way to explore Berlin? Explore Berlin by bike, preferably with a tour guide. You will experience the capital from a completely new perspective. The perfect Berlin souvenir? The Brandenburg Gate made of chocolate from the Rausch chocolate house on Gendarmenmarkt.
YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!
Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.
From top to bottom: Schloß Charlottenburg; one of the specialties at Solar Sky Lounge; Berlin by bike; Ristorante a Mano; The view from Monkey Bar.
20 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I M I AJ A RN CH UA2018 R Y 2013
SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG AND BERLIN BY BIKE: © ISTOCK; SOLAR FOOD: COURTESY OF SOLAR RESTAURANT; RISTORANTE A MANO: COURTESY OF RISTORANTE A MANO; MONKEY BAR: COURTESY OF MONKEY BAR 25HOURS HOTEL BIKINI BERLIN
WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE
SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Tea Time I once heard someone describe coffee as the aggressive, inspirational coach yelling at you to go faster and do better, and tea as the sweet grandma saying that you are perfect just as you are, and that you should take a moment to sit down and appreciate all the wonderful things life has to offer. To me, the latter sounds much more inviting and you can give me a cuppa any day of the week. If this also sums you up to a tee, be sure to check out my favorite luxury teashops in Berlin. Founded over 180 years ago in Paris, Mariage Frères (Galeries Lafayette, Französische Str. 23, www.mariagefreres.com) is considered the haute couture of teas. Alongside almost 160 blends of tea, they also have chocolates, scented candles, and tea paraphernalia – everything a tea lover like me should need and desire. I recently discovered with pleasure the velvety, fruity aroma of their new “Love Story” blend. At tea seller Kusmi Tea (Bikini Berlin and 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
Mall of Berlin, www.kusmitea.com), each tin tells a story of Pavel Kousmichoff, who founded the company in 1867 in St Petersburg before setting up headquarters in Paris. They have a whole series of Russian teas, including Prince Vladimir, Bouquet de Fleurs (apparently the tsar’s favorite tea), and Anastasia, my personal favorite – a refined Earl Grey blend, just the sort of tea I imagine a Russian princess to be sipping. I adore the baroque packaging too. Løv Organic (Galeries Lafayette, www.lov-organic. com) is an offshoot of Kusmi, created especially for its Scandinavian and German customers who were crying out for organic tea. All the ingredients (tea, fruit
pieces, flowers) are organic except the natural flavors. It is also GMO free, ethically produced, and comes in recyclable tins. My tip is "Løv is Beautiful", a blend of white and green tea, green rooibos, and summer stone fruits. With a store in Charlottenburg and another in Mitte, Berlin-founded P & T (www. paperandtea.com) is not only about beautifully packaged, premium tea from all over the world. They also offer a huge selection of tea accessories and fine stationery in a minimalist interior, perfect for gift-giving and keeping in touch. The tea is conveniently displayed with open samples, so you can see and smell it to your heart’s content. I always make time for tea.
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF P & T, BY LUDGER PAFFRATH AND MATHAEUS KRUZYNSKI
Annabelle Mallia has always preferred tea over coffee.
SHOPPING
THE
where GUIDELINES
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.
INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This month, this will be on 11 March. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet
food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3
DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
COURTESY OF COS
Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map
Europa Center
COS For Celebration At first, second, or even third glance, there’s no indication that the sleek, chic COS boutiques might be brought to you by the same people as the Swedish chain H&M. Unlike the trendy, mass-market styles of its sibling, however, COS espouses a much more minimal and subdued aesthetic, with racks of womenswear and menswear in dark monochromes, fresh whites, and timeless neutrals, covering everything from wardrobe basics, knits, work attire, and outerwear to smart shoes and accessories. Brand hallmarks are high-quality natural fibers like wool, cashmere, and crisp cotton, clean silhouettes, and timeless design with subtle avant-garde tendencies, for a cool and elegant look that’s eminently Scandinavian. Shop at four stores throughout the city: on Neue Schönhauser Straße and Friedrichstraße in Mitte, out west on the Ku’damm, and in the Mall of Berlin. www.cosstores.com
This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a www.wheretraveler.com 23
SHOPPING
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GEOMETRY 9
Interesting lines, folds, and cuts to bring a new angle to your wardrobe.
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1. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 2. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 3. COS Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 217. 4–6. COS Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 217. 7. Mykita, BIKINI BERLIN, Budapester Str. 8. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstr. 50. 9. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.
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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY
STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95
SHOPPING Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4
Blue Tomato No matter if your cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to
help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Cotélac
This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode.de. Bleibtreustr. 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4
Finn's Mode
The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. The first set of traffic U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Ellen Eisemann
Ganni Berlin
Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-to-wear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
lights in Europe was installed in 1924 on Potsdamer Platz.
Feminine and chic dresses , skirts, tops made for the Audrey Hepburns of today. Simple, geometric cuts and eye-catching colors and prints combine a timeless style with a glamorous vintage look. www.elleneisemann.com. Monumentenstraße 33-34. 030 78898595. S Yorckstraße. D5
designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino.
Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2
Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4
Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3
MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Michael Kors
The Scent Of Luxury Internationally renowned Heinz Schlicht learned his trade during the '60s, styling stars and Berlin guests in luxury hotels before founding his own salon and perfumery called Étoile – the birthplace of what later became the Parfumsalon. Today, fragrance expert Mario Worms has made the salon an aromatic paradise, exclusively carrying niche fragrances where the perfume artists are allowed to work without the restrictions of the mass market. From haute parfumerie to the most important traditional houses, Mario will help you find that perfect scent, one that evokes a special memory or consummately expresses your personality. Sublime body care products and an impressive range of scented candles, including noble Cire Trudon candles, round out the offering that will leave you feeling absolutely glamorous! Uhlandstr. 173. T: 030 8827306. www.parfumsalon.de
The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who
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are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4
Trüffelschwein
Sei Du selbst.
HARBOUR
COUTURE
The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3
Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3
Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy www.wheretraveler.com 27
SHOPPING
AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3
BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4
BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4
EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3
CHOPARD www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4
ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4
MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3
MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2
ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4
WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando. de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4
SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2
New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2
Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www. unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4
JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement 28 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Juweliere Leicht This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari. Utopia, Noor, and Meissen. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery. com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2
BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3
Flaconi A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de. Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4
Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3
ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
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LUXURY BRANDS
to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
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Bikini Berlin is all about fashion, design and good vibes. The concept shopping mall is renowned for its lovingly curated stores, as well as a number of pop-up boxes where brands can launch new products. Another highlight is the new Kantini food market, serving up culinary delights from various different countries. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 55496455 www.bikiniberlin.de
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This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de
Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West. Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home. Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com www.wheretraveler.com 29
SHOPPING MAPS
MALL OF BERLIN
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Rich & Royal
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Calvin Klein Jeans
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French Connection
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Eterna Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL
Muji
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Sizeer
Palmers
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Passionata
Sportalm Kitzbühel
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...and the biggest Foodhall.
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Double Englishness at CineStar Original and IMAX with Laser! Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and select shows in English at IMAX with Laser.
cinestar.de 30 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE
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This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com
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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.
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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.
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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING
Talkin’ Bout A Revolution
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Serene Tseng explores Prenzlauer Berg, to better understand its urban and political roots. A trip to Berlin isn’t quite complete until you take a stroll through Prenzlauer Berg. The picturesque neighborhood is ideal for a glimpse of pre-war Berlin, as most of its historical Wilhelmine-era buildings from the turn of the 20th century were spared from substantial damage during WWII. Today, Prenzlauer Berg is a familyoriented neighborhood, but when the Berlin Wall was up, it was home to East German countercultures. It was in one of the neighborhood's churches that the peaceful revolution of 1989 began. In early October of that year, the Romanesque Revival and neo-Gothic fusion Gethsemane Kirche (Stargarder Str. 77) opened its doors to protesters against the East German regime, allowing them to meet and organize their political activity. On the night of 5 November 1989, four days before the fall of the Berlin Wall, a spontaneous demonstration started within the church before fanning out onto Schönhauser Allee. When the regime came to an end,
Gethsemane Church was the site of the first and only free elections of the GDR. Walking down Schönhauser Allee from the church, you'll pass by Mauerpark. During the Cold War, the park was part of the militarized death strip, or "no-man’s land" of the Berlin Wall. Today, Mauerpark is a popular weekend destination and synonymous with the flea market and karaoke in the amphitheater on Sundays. The public park borders a section of the Berlin Wall, where graffiti artists paint and show their work. Just a few blocks down from Mauerpark is the Kulturbrauerei (Schönhauser Allee 36, www.
kulturbrauerei.de). Once the Schultheiss beer brewery, this red-bricked complex is now a cultural hub, with six courtyards and twenty buildings making up a beautiful event venue for the arts. Its unique 19thcentury industrial architecture has been a protected heritage site since the mid-1970s. Here, the cinema is next door to a museum documenting everyday life in East Germany, and the theater rubs shoulders with clubs and restaurants. On Sundays, food trucks fill the courtyards, making the Kulturbrauerei an important part of the capital’s culinary scene. www.wheretraveler.com 33
SIGHTSEEING
The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-CharlottePlatz. A3
Hackesche Höfe
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. In 1995, artist Christo U Zoologischer Garten, wrapped up the Kurfürstendamm. C4
An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century Reichstag in 100,000 German Secessionist style. The sq.m. of polypropylene Nikolaiviertel and first courtyard is entirely decorated fabric. Knoblauchhaus with glazed blue-and-white tiles in The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was geometric designs, while the apartment born, and the area still retains its ancient buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined character, although most of the buildings in the with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. originals that dated back to the 1200s. The lateRosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2 Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest Haus der Kulturen der Welt include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because Biedermeier-style Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt middle-class townhouse that escaped WWII was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. quickly became a symbol of western freedom and www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr creativity, in contrast to East German architectural S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the
Potsdamer Platz
Tracing Lola The Blue Angel may have launched Marlene Dietrich to Hollywood fame, but her hometown always remained in her heart, so follow along as we explore her Berlin! Start at Leberstr. 65 in Schöneberg, where a plaque and a mural painting marks Dietrich’s birthplace. Her passion for performing started early, and in 1922, she made her debut on stage at the Deutsches Theater. A mere six months later, she married Rudolf Sieber at the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Babelsberg Studio in Potsdam is where Dietrich starred in The Blue Angel, and immediately after the film’s premiere in 1930, Dietrich left Germany for Hollywood. Today, Marlene-DietrichPlatz is named after her and her resistance against the Nazis, but is also the home of the Deutsche Kinemathek (www.deutsche-kinemathek.de), whose permanent exhibition features a collection of Dietrich's most famous photos. To close the circle, visit her final resting spot at the Städtischer Friedhof III on Stubenrauchstraße in Friedenau.
34 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3
Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3
Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3
MARLENE DIETRICH: COURTESY OF DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK
MAJOR SIGHTS
HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2
Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3
Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while
the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map
Let‘s go up!
Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4
Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3
Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and
the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Botanischer Garten
Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!
This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.
Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation
www.tv-turm.de www.wheretraveler.com 35
SIGHTSEEING and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games. Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3
Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4
Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and lovely seahorses are just some of the 5,000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16-m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
36 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
Egg-citing Easter Events Easter is one of Germany’s favorite holidays, and the Easter long weekend, which begins at the very end of this month, abounds with unique local celebrations. The Easter bonfire is one perennial favorite, with roots in Saxon pagan traditions. Families gather to watch huge wooden pyres go up in flames, symbolically driving away the winter darkness. Join the fiery celebrations at Britzer Garten (www.gruen-berlin.de) on 31 March together with live music and warm drinks – the fire will be lit at around 7pm. Medieval festivals are another Eastertime favorite, and the Spandau Citadel (www.zitadelle-berlin.de), a 16th-century fortress at the northwest corner of Berlin, is the perfect venue. The Easter Ritterfest (knights’ festival) there, starting 31 March, features fire jugglers, jousting matches on horseback, magic shows, and more. Another rousing Easter festival is held at the beautiful Kloster Chorin (www.kloster-chorin.org), a 13th-century monastery located one hour north of the city on the regional train. Opening on 30 March, the medieval-themed festival will include performances, egg-decorating and basket-weaving activities for the kids, and an Easter market with all sorts of crafts. Should all the juggling and jousting leave you hungry for a proper Easter brunch, Benedict Berlin (Uhlandstr. 49, www.benedict-breakfast.de) serves egg-cellent breakfast and brunch dishes 24 hours a day, seven days a week, from pancakes to eggs Benedict to omelets galore.
TOURS & WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.
Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.
CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlinways.de. T: 030.26321381.
Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.
© STOCK
Madame Tussauds
THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
JEAN FOUQUET. DAS DIPTYCHON VON MELUN, AUSSTELLUNGSANSICHT, © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / DAVID VON BECKER; DAVIDE GHIRLANDAIO, PROFILBILDNIS EINER JUNGEN FRAU, UM 1490, ÖL AUF PAPPELHOLZ, 44,60 X 34,40 CM, © BPK / GEMÄLDEGALERIE, STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, JÖRG P. ANDERS; IN NEUEM LICHT. WERKE IN DER WANDELHALLE, AUSSTELLUNGSANSICHT, GEMÄLDEGALERIE, © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / DAVID VON BECKER; GIOVANNI BELLINI, THE AGONY IN THE GARDEN, ABOUT 1465, PANEL, 81,3 X 127 CM, BOUGHT, 1863, © THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON
This photo: Fouquet's Melun Diptych; Right: A painting by Domenico Ghirlandaio; Below: The Agony in the Garden by Giovanni Bellini.
A Matter Of Perspective Solveig Steinhardt spent a day exploring some of Europe's best Renaissance art, right here in Berlin. About a thousand years ago, Europe was a really dark place. Oppressed by disease, superstition, and fear, the average medieval European could only turn to religion as hope for salvation. Then came the Renaissance, with its rational thinking that pervaded the politics, science, literature, and arts of the entire continent. Realistic perspectives and human anatomy, elegant aesthetics, and extremely high standards of female beauty became the main elements of Renaissance art, combined with a strong religious feeling. The best place to observe Renaissance perfection in Berlin is the Gemäldegalerie (p. 40), which houses an impressive collection of religious and secular European painting, including Botticelli's
Portrait of a Young Woman, Woman with a Pearl Necklace by Vermeer (though not in its most famous version), the Terranuova Madonna by Raphael, as well as paintings by Domenico Ghirlandaio and Caravaggio. One of the museum's current highlights is the Melun Diptych by French court painter Jean Fouquet. This two-panel oil painting depicts a pale, almost otherworldly Virgin sitting on a gold throne and surrounded by blue and red cherubim (pictured above). From the other panel, the French king's treasurer and Saint Stephen admire and venerate the mother and child in a marvelous composition. Starting on 1 March, the Gemäldegalerie will also be presenting its new exhibition, Masters of the Renaissance, focusing on Italian
Renaissance painters Andrea Mantegna and Giovanni Bellini. Both active in the courts of northern Italy, the two, who also happened to be brothers-in-law, influenced many of their successors. Mantegna's compositional innovations and passion for classical archeology resulted in a sculptural approach to painting, which included metallic landscapes and somewhat stony figures. His style made an impact in Padua, where he worked, as well as on the pictorial style of his younger colleague and relative, Bellini, who lived in Venice. Bellini became known for his stunning madonnas with child, typically set in front of a curtain that reveals highly detailed background landscapes, often with mountains, meadows, and realistic trees. www.wheretraveler.com 37
Pablo Picasso at La Californie, Cannes, 1957 © The Irving Penn Foundation
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 18 Mar: Rodin - Rilke - Hofmannsthal. Man and His Genius. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of Rodin's death with his masterpieces. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www. smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bode Museum
I RV I N G P E N N CEN T EN N I A L DER JAHRHUNDERTFOTOGRAF 24 . 0 3 .— — 0 1 . 0 7. 2 0 1 8 www.co-berlin.org
An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 15 Apr: 1917. Revolution. Russia and Europe. Exploring the 100 years since the Russian Revolution and the changes it brought forth. From 23 Mar: Saving – History of a German Virtue. Exploring how saving became a behavior linked to Germany. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Deutsches Technikmuseum
For Explorers!
MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 31 Jul: Cars from the Depot on Show. Showing more than 200 cars, from 1923-1987. To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of orientation along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
Jewish Museum
Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | www.sdtb.de |
38 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
/deutschestechnikmuseum
MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the
alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 30 Apr: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religion Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4
and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts and 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Märkisches Museum
Museum Berggruen
Martin-Gropius-Bau
COOK TOURISM OFFICE AT THE JAFFA GATE; JERUSALEM, C. 1900, PHOTOGRAPHY (REPRODUCTION) © LIBRARY OF CONGRESS PRINTS AND PHOTOGRAPHS DIVISION, PHOTOCHROM COLLECTION, LC-DIG-PPMSCA-02688
MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and
photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 4 Mar: Jews, Christians and Muslims. In the Discourse of Sciences 500-1500. Exploring how intellectual exchange thrived between the three cultures. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4
Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts
MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 31 Mar: Marc Chagall: The Modernity of Decorativeness. A one-room show of Chagall's innovationt date back to ancient times as well as games and ma in modern art, with photographs by Ulrike Kolb. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen
(worth
open daily:
(24th December closed)
Last entrance: 7 p.m.
Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
2,80€)
Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.
Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3
2707
3360
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until May, 31st 2018.
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
The Golden City For many centuries, Jerusalem has been considered a holy city for the world's three biggest monotheistic religions, and to this day it is populated by large communities of Jews, Muslims, and Christians. Welcome to Jerusalem, showing this month in the Jewish Museum's "Old Building" (p. 38), uses media installations coupled with objects of significance to investigate how the city’s history plays into the area’s religions, conflict, and politics. Artists Gustav Metzger and Fazal Sheikh explore the boundaries of recent memory and history through portraiture and landscapes, while the documentary 24h Jerusalem shows the candid everyday lives of 90 of the city’s Palestinian and Israeli residents. Until 30 April 2019.
www.wheretraveler.com 39
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum of Photography
Pergamon Museum
Dalí – The Exhibition
Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 3 Jun: Sigrid Neubert. Photographs: Architecture and Nature. A retrospective showcasing Neubert's crisp and high-contrast images. To 13 May: Guy Bourdin. Image Maker / Helmut Newton. A Gun for Hire / Angelo Marino. Another Story. The trio's legacy and mastery shown together for the first time. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 9 Apr: Copy and Mastery. Miniature paintings and calligraphy of the Mogul Empire. To 15 Apr: Perched. An installation from Felekan Onar. 27 glass swallows symbolize the situation of Syrian refugees in Istanbul. www.smb. museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3
The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 29 Apr: Sielmann! A focus on the lynx, wisent, and beaver, all native wildlife, to celebrate the legendary nature broadcaster Heinz Sielmann's would-be 100th birthday. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 4 Mar: Between Royal Graves and the Pawnshop. Max OhnefalscheRichter (1850-1917) and the Archaeology of Cyprus. Commemorating the contributions of the forgotten archaeologist. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by Berlin has more organizing an international prize. To Berlinische Galerie museums than rainy 25 Mar: Fahrelnissa. A retrospective days per year. A modern art collection of 5000+ of Turkish modernist Zeid's work. works of German and Eastern Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutscheEuropean paintings. To 30 Apr: bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden Cyrill Lachauer. What Do You Want Here. 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 Reconstructions and alternative realities from Lachauer's journey across the US. From 23 Mar: Gemäldegalerie – Carsten Nicolai. Straddling the line between visual Old Masters Painting Gallery art and electronic sound. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. MUST SEE One of the finest collections of €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including T: 030.78902600. Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of U Hallesches Tor. E4 Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), C/O Berlin Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography Matthäikirchplatz 50. has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which T: 030.266424242. housed the American library during the Cold War S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 era. To 11 Mar: Torbjørn Rødland. Back in Touch.
ART GALLERIES
Surreal dreams and imaginings extended into photographic reality. To 11 Mar: Joel Meyerowitz. Why Color? Meyerowitz’s vintage color photographs presented together with his early black-and-white work. From 24 Mar to 1 July: Irving Penn. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Stories From The Road German artist Cyrill Lachauer tells the hidden stories of the United States. Traveling through Los Angeles to the Mississippi River, Lachauer uses photographs, film, and writings to bring untold stories of people and landscapes. What Do You Want Here, created from a two-year long journey on the road, is showing this month at the Berlinische Galerie (this page). Until 30 April. 40 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 17 Jun: The First Generation. Sculptors of the Berlin Modern. Featuring 60 works from the first generation of independent female sculptors. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbemuseum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map
Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 23 Mar: Hello World. Revisioning a Collection. A relook at the Nationalgalerie's Eurocentric storytelling. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 2 Apr: Indigenous Australia: Masterworks from the National Gallery of Australia. Presenting the traditional and modern works of Indigenous Australia. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
AUGUSTE RODIN DER HELD (DER MENSCH UND SEIN GENIUS)UM 1896, GUSS 1900BRONZE, 39,5 X 16,5 X 17,5 CM© NATIONALGALERIE – STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / ANDRES KILGER
Museum für Naturkunde
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
THE GUIDE | DINING
Above left, left, and this photo: Princess Cheesecake. Above right: The interior of Anna Blume.
Let Them Eat Cake PRINCESS CHEESECAKE: © KATY OTTO. ANNA BLUME: © VISIT BERLIN, PHOTO BY PIERRE ADENIS
Hilda Hoy indulged her sweet tooth and dug into Germany’s cake-loving tradition. Here in Germany, cake is more than just cake. It’s a hallowed cultural tradition, best paired with coffee and enjoyed in the company of friends or family. Kaffee und Kuchen time falls in the late afternoon, on weekends in particular, when cafés fill to the bursting and slices of cake practically go flying off the shelves. Whether your tastes run to simple classics like Käsekuchen and streusel-topped fruit cakes, or many-layered pastry masterpieces resplendent with whipped cream, Berlin has a wide variety of cake specialists where you can indulge in the Kaffee und Kuchen tradition. For a taste of classic cake culture unchanged by time, pay a visit to Konditorei Buchwald (Bartningallee 29, www.konditoreibuchwald.de), a charmingly old-fashioned pastry shop and café in Moabit dating back 165 years. The scrolled wallpaper, heavy wooden fittings, and chintzy lace curtains are
clear evidence of the tradition that permeates this place. Now in its fifth generation of family management, the shop also sticks close to tradition when it comes to its sweet creations, like tortes layered thick with berries and cream or the famed Black Forest cherry cake. Don’t pass up the Buchwald specialty, Baumkuchen, or “tree cake,” a dense, not-toosweet creation made by brushing layer upon layer of batter onto a rotating spit to create the cake’s signature rings. Another classically styled place – with a generous touch of opulence on top – is Grosz (Kurfürstendamm 193–194, www. grosz-berlin.de), which emulates the resplendent style of a 19th-century Viennese coffeehouse. The soaring, stuccoed ceilings, Corinthian columns, marble trim, and atmospheric décor are sure to take your breath away. While away a few luxurious hours here with tea or coffee served in
Meissen porcelain cups and a slice of something delicious from the pastry counter. The cake creations at Mitte’s Princess Cheesecake (Tucholskystr. 37, www. princess-cheesecake.de) are just as impressive, though served in a more laid-back, subdued setting than opulent west-end Grosz. As the name would suggest, the specialty here is every imaginable variant on the much-loved cheesecake, from passionfruit, berry, and chocolate cheesecakes to the New York classic, each one picture-perfect, dainty, and delicious. For a homey, neighborhood Kuchen experience, head to Prenzlauer Berg’s Anna Blume (Kollwitzstr. 83, www.cafe-anna-blume.de), a café that bustles with local life. To get a taste of some Berlin favorites, try the Zupfkuchen, a chocolate-marbled cheesecake, the poppy seed cream cake, or Anna Blume’s unique specialty – rice pudding cake. www.wheretraveler.com 41
DINING
www.1687.berlin DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.
5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3
OPEN NOW
Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3
Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
fine, modern, French inspired cuisine private atmosphere in an elegant ambiance quiet location in the vibrant heart of Berlin VIP-rooms with separate entrances
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin open from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. / Sunday closed
Pauly Saal
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Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.
42 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
Ebertstraße
Str. des 17. Juni
Wilhelmstraße
FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.
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The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avant-
garde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS
Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4
Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2
Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4
ASIAN
Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com
Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D. www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.
www.spindlerklatt.berlin Köpenicker Str. 16 / 17 | Kreuzberg
India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurantjolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a
www.wheretraveler.com 43
DINING club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style
Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map
FRENCH
fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687. berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s
restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Berliner Weisse is a pale ale brewed only in the Both the à la carte options and the capital and usually menu of monthly specials illustrate served with a shot of the restaurant’s dedication to topsyrup. quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.dukerestaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining
with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots
Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including
Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.
Here’s To You, Mrs. Robinson’s In the hands of the wrong chef, so-called fusion cuisine is a recipe for disaster, with incongruous flavors, ingredients, and cultural influences slopped together in paletteconfusing combinations. When done right, however, it is an eye-opening culinary experience. Like when Ben Zviel, the Israeli chef and co-founder at Mrs. Robinson’s, is running the kitchen. This hip, minimal restaurant in Prenzlauer Berg firmly occupies the genre of casual fine dining, with a small, changing menu that gives Zviel free creative reign to play with East Asian flavors, French techniques, and Western culinary sensibilities in his artful dishes. One menu favorite is his twist on the bao, a Taiwaneseinspired steamed bun sandwiching buttermilk fried chicken, taleggio cheese, and pickles. Fusion tendencies abound: a mussel vichyssoise is seasoned with shiso herb and dulse seaweed, charcoal-grilled octopus is wrapped in lavash bread with a dollop of yuzu labneh. The drinks are as much of a treat as the food, with a selection of premium Japanese sake and shochu and unique cocktail concoctions. Pappelallee 29. T: 030 54622839. www.mrsrobinsons.de
Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4
GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts
an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25. T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3
Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building
was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4
Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the
whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2
The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of
Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3 Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also
44 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
COURTESY OF MRS ROBINSON'S
Jolesch
0 a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3
Servus Bavaria! Delicious german food and drinks at Maximilians.
More German. A stylish, design-oriented spot in
the bustling Nollendorfplatz neighborhood, More’s specialty is modern German cuisine with international influences. Classics like schnitzel and Königsberger Klopse meatballs are equally as delicious as fusion-style options such as salmon tartare with avocado and wasabi, or softly braised octopus with lime. €€. Daily L&D. www.more-berlin.de. Motzstr. 28. T: 030.23635702. C4
Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de
Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s
traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2
Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and
refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2
Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on
the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.
ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D.
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DINING www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3
Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers
modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3
MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end
gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
OTHER Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2
Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4
Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3
VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian
dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3
Katjes Veggie Café Grün- Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The
shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2 46 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT
ENSEMBLE RESONANZ, © TOBIAS SCHULT; JULIUS EASTMAN, © DONALD W. BURKHARDT; SALIM'S SALON: © ADRIAN SCHMIDT; P. TERRE THAEMLITZ: © BART NAGEL 1999; ZEITKRATZER: © JOHAN COUDOUX
Clockwise from top left: Zeitkratzer; Salim's Salon; Julius Eastman; Ensemble Resonanz; Terre Thaemlitz.
How Time Sounds Annabelle Mallia secured tickets to one of Germany’s most important contemporary music festivals." March in Berlin means pure aural discovery. For over a decade, Berlin has been presenting avant-garde music from around the world at MaerzMusik (www. berlinerfestspiele.de/maerzmusik), each year under a different theme. In 2006, the focus was on the interactions and analogies between Japanese and American music, while in 2010 the festival examined music as a realm of utopian thought and practice. In 2015, however, new artistic director Berno Odo Polzer gave MaerzMusik the subtitle "A Festival for Time Issues," and since then the 10-day-long event has explored the relationship between time and music. This year constitutes the 4th edition of MaerzMusik under its new banner, which hypothesizes the existence of “time wars that
rage between temporalities." From 16 to 25 March, the festival will attempt to detect, experience, reflect upon, and if possible escape from the time-related forces operating on us, such as turbo-capitalism, environmental degradation, and the ferocious speed of media attention. The artists and projects scheduled all relate to these issues, even if not always in an immediately obvious way. Various events focus on late composer and vocalist Julius Eastman, rediscovering this Afro-American artist’s much-neglected compositions, as well as his political and spiritual personas. The Ensemble Resonanz and their piece Migrants evokes the disappearances of our times. The multimedia project Deproduction by Japan-based American artist Thaemlitz investigates the
power dynamics behind Western humanist notions of family. Salim's Salon presents culturally diverse musicians and the confrontation between free improvised music and chronometer-timed scores. In addition, there will be reading circles, film screenings, workshops, and panel discussions at venues throughout the city, all inviting the public to explore music as a temporal experience. Another highlight is the closing event, The Long Now, assembling musical works from early-Renaissance polyphony, experimental electronics, and sound and video installations, forming a 30-hour-long composition performed in the Kraftwerk converted power plant. Visitors are welcome to come and go, or even sleep over in the beds provided if they want full immersion. www.wheretraveler.com 47
ENTERTAINMENT
BALLET & OPERA
ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE FREAKS RAW Gelände, all month.
THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month
FINALE Chamäleon Theater, all month
TAKE IT EASY! Wintergarten Variete, all month
ANATEVKA Komische Oper, 16 Mar
PLANET EARTH- LIVE Mercedes-Benz Arena, 6 Mar
STOMP! Admiralspalast, 13–18 Mar
Deutsche Oper
Konzerthausorchester (cond. Markus Stenz), performs Busoni, Strauss. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3
A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together Philharmonie rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Mozart. 2, 10 Mar: Madame Butterfly (Puccini). Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon 3, 9, 17 Mar: Turandot (Puccini). 11 Mar: The Magic Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles Flute (Mozart). 21, 24 Mar: Tosca (Puccini). 31 Mar: Cavalleria Rusticana/Bajazzo and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts (Mascagni/Leoncavallo). Tuesdays 1pm. 1–3 Mar: The Berliner www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Philharmoniker (cond. Harding) T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche perform Schubert and Strauss. Oper. B3 4 Mar: Waseda Symphony Check out Freaks, an unconventional circus Orchestra Tokyo. 6 Mar: Maurizio Komische Oper performance at RAWPollini, piano recital. 16 Mar: Jazz Young and daring opera Gelände in Friedrichshain. at the Philharmonie. productions won this theater the www.flicflac.de www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. title of Opera House of the Year Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 18, Pierre Boulez Saal 20 Mar: Xerxes (Händel). 2, 9 Mar: Don Giovanni Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the (Mozart). 3, 11, 16 Mar: Anatevka (Bock). 4 Mar: Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution Snow White and the 77 Dwarves (Kats-Chernin). dedicated to bringing together talented young 10, 21, 25, 30 Mar: Die Perlen der Cleopatra (Straus). musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian 17, 24, 31 Mar: Blaubart (Offenbach). backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. venerable Frank Gehry ensures stunning acoustics, T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3 and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de.
Staatsoper Unter Den Linden
Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 4, 8, 10, 14, 17 Mar: Salome (Strauss). 4, 7, 22 Mar: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 25, 28 Mar: Falstaff (Verdi). 30 Mar: Parsifal (Wagner). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3
Staatsballett
D'ANGELO Columbiahalle, 15 Mar
MARC ALMOND Admiralspalast, 30 Mar
SANTIANO Mercedes-Benz Arena, 8 Mar
SOY LUNA Mercedes-Benz Arena, 22 Mar
BALLET & CLASSICAL MADAME BUTTERFLY Deutsche Oper, 2, 10 Mar
MITSUKO UCHIDA Chamber Music Hall, 8 Mar
MAURIZIO POLLINI Philharmonie, 6 Mar
DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE Staatsoper, 4, 7, 22 Mar
48 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
CLASSICAL CONCERTS Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3
Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 8 Mar: Mitsuko Uchida, piano recital. 25 Mar: Benny Goodman Revival Band. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 3, 4 Mar: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Goebel); music by Bach and Mozart. 9–11 Mar: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Varga); music by Bartók and Kodaly. 16, 17 Mar:
Tainted Love With a career spanning 10 albums and a musical past ranging from punk rock to mainstream, Marc Almond is one of the most important British musicians of our time. Best known for his 1990s hit Tainted Love, Almond will be touring Europe this year to give us more of his poetic tunes about dark fantasies and affairs. Catch him at Admiralspalast (p. 50) on 30 March for a retrospective of his career.
PHOTO COURTESY OF TRINITY CONCERTS
ROCK, JAZZ, POP
Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 12, 9 Mar: Herrumbre at Staatsoper unter den Linden. 4, 15 Mar: Don Quixote (Minkus) at Komische Oper. 15 Mar: Giselle at Staatsoper Unter den Linden. 20, 23, 29 Mar: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
ENTERTAINMENT Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.
MOVIE THEATERS
DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES
Cinestar Sony Center
HAU (Hebbel am Ufer)
Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Odeon
Radialsystem V
ROCK, POP, JAZZ
Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3
Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin
CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz
Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4
legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 6 Mar: Planet Earth Live in concert. 8 Mar: Santiano. 22 Mar: Soy Luna Live. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
Tempodrom
This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5
Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. 15 Mar: D'Angelo in concert. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5
Sophiensaele
Estrel Festival Center Berlin
Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance
Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of
This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. To 4 Mar: Holiday on Ice. 15, 16 Mar: Lord of the Dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 13–18 Mar: Stomp! 20–25 Mar: Max Raabe & Palast Orchester. 30 Mar: Marc Almond. www.admiralspalast.
THE TAP PACK The Show Sensation is back! March 16 to April 8 Tickets 030. 883 15 82 // www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de 50 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de
de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4
Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Finale. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin
presents ARTISTIC PICTURES TO THE HITS OF
KENNY ROGERS JOHNNY CASH DOLLY PARTON BOB DYLAN ZZ TOP THE EAGLES JOE COCKER BOSS HOSS ED SHEERAN TEXAS LIGHTNING SIMON & GARFUNKEL FLEETWOOD MAC BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN
ROADTRIP TO THE ROOTS OF ROCK & POP
AND MANY MORE
HITS & ACROBATICS
MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world,
this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, a dreamlike journey in search of the one we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
www.wintergarten-berlin.de | Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin
Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4
Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3
Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Take it easy! Hits and acrobatics. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 www.wheretraveler.com 51
NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Above: Fragrances cocktails. Left: the interior of ORA. This photo: Prinzipal Kreuzberg: Inset, below: Arnd Heissen, creator of Fragrances.
Hilda Hoy imbibed her way through a variety of bars that embody a unique theme or style. So many bars, and so little time. To narrow down Berlin’s wealth of watering holes to the one (or few) you have to visit tonight, perhaps picking by theme can help. An array of cocktail bars across the city set themselves apart with a unique concept or style – like Fragrances (Potsdamer Platz 3, www.ritzcarlton.com), for example, a chic and classy spot tucked into the back lobby at the Ritz-Carlton. Each drink is inspired by a luxury perfume, and the “menu” is a row of perfume bottles to sniff through. From the mixology down to the presentation, every detail is carefully and artfully fine-tuned. The creative mastermind behind Fragrances is bar manager Arnd Heissen, who replicated the aroma notes of his favorite perfumes into drinkable form, infusing saffron into rum, rose petals in gin, and simmering tonka and vanilla beans in syrup. Take the best-selling Vaara cocktail, for example: an utterly enchanting blend of pear puree, saffron, rum, bourbon, rosewater, and magnolia syrup, served in a wee wooden sauna house that lets out a puff of 52 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
sandalwood smoke as it’s opened. Prinzipal Kreuzberg (Oranienstr. 178, www.prinzipal-kreuzberg.com) embodies a different kind of chic. This cocktail bar is decked out with a classic burlesque theme, with gold accents, glitz, and glamour to spare. The space hosts live burlesque shows every weekend featuring the most top-notch local talent. To match the ambience, the drinks are naturally dripping with old-timey luxury too – try the Roxy Diamond, a classy concoction of Courvoisier, Luxardo cherry liqueur, bitter, and champagne. Just around the corner is ORA (Oranienplatz 14, www. ora-berlin.de), housed in a remarkably preserved space that was once a pharmacy. The 19th-century wooden cabinets are still completely intact, plus beautiful Art Deco accents that make today’s bar feel something
like a beautiful time capsule. The pharmacy theme is carefully maintained without going over the top: vintage apothecary bottles double as flower vases, and water is served in glass laboratory flasks that will bring back memories of high school chemistry class. Just as much care is put into the cocktail menu, which includes a variety of unique in-house specialties. For fans of the cult-favorite TV show Twin Peaks, an excursion to the spooky Black Lodge bar (Sanderstr. 6) is a must. Getting there is half the challenge – there’s no proper signage out front, and various websites proclaim the bar has closed down. Find your way successfully into the back room, however, and you’ll land in a trippy twilight zone complete with red velvet curtains, zig-zagged floor, and weird company in true Black Lodge style.
ARND HEISSEN: PHOTO BY RICARDA SPIEGEL; FRAGRANCES: ALL PHOTOS BY NATALIA KEPESZ; ORA: COURTESY OF ORA. PRINZIPAL KREUZBERG © PRINZIPAL KREUZBERG
Staying On Topic
NIGHTLIFE
BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
© ISTOCK
Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the
final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4
Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar. de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4
Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. Savignyplatz. C4
Missing that warm, friendly pub atmosphere? The Harp (Giesebrechtstr. 15) is open every day until 1am for a good pint and traditional Irish food.
CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3
KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3
TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3
WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4
HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3
CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1
GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4
PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4
THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.
BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.
BERLIN ESSENTIALS
€ TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.
TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.
SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables. Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends. In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”). Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.
PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.
GETTING AROUND Public Transport
www.bvg.de.
Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30. 54 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
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Fares
ESSENTIALS U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
STATIO OF N MONTTHE H
S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de
Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
The oldest train stop still in operation in Berlin, Zehlendorf station was first opened in 1838 as a point on the Berlin-Potsdam railway line, which quickly became an important commuter route. In the 1930s, the new-fangled, high-speed trains that zipped through here were nicknamed “Bankierzüge” (bankers’ trains) after the wealthy financiers who rode from their Wannsee villas to jobs in the heart of the city. The original station hall was bombed in 1943 and hurriedly rebuilt, and is today served by the S-Bahn’s S1 line.
Taxis
Tax-Free Shopping
Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.
Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG 0050.16; © ISTOCK
www.callabike.de.
S-Bahn Zehlendorf
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WHERE NOW | FRIEDERIKE ABLANG
My Berlin
FRIEDERIKE ABLANG ILLUSTRATOR Friederike translates the world around her into pictures – whimsical, humorous, touching, and smile-inducing illustrations that have graced the pages of children’s storybooks, textbooks, magazines, and more. A born-andraised Berliner in a city full of newcomers, she’s full of recommendations on how to get the most out of her hometown.
As a born-and-raised Berliner, what is one thing about your home city you would like our readers to know? There’s a saying that “Berlin is a village,” and it’s true! Berliners tend to stick to their corner of the city. If you do it right, you end up knowing your neighbors and the people running the shops, and you have your favorite kebab place where you no longer have to tell them how you take your kebab (no onions, but yes to garlic sauce). Every Kiez feels different. Sometimes when I leave the U-Bahn I think I’ve gone on vacation, because this other part of the city even smells different. How did you end up becoming an illustrator? A long and winding road. Originally, I wanted to work for Greenpeace and help save the world. But after high school I went to the U.K. to work as an au pair, then studied art and photography. Back in Berlin, I worked as a photo assistant and found that photography was a real passion, though I didn’t want it to be how I earned money. So I did a degree in communications design. Since then I’ve worked as an illustrator and donate to Greenpeace instead. What are some ways this city feeds you as an artist? Berlin is full of wonderful museums 58 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2018
and theaters, which I visit regularly. My daughter took her first steps in the Bode Museum. There are some very beautiful corners, and wonderful parks. Walking through the city is a way for me to do some good thinking, incubate ideas, or poetize. But I also love the grimy corners of the city, the graffitied and run-down nooks. My son and I have dreamed up many vampire stories and spooky rhymes on our daily morning walks through Friedrichshain’s RAW complex. Which neighborhood do you live in, and what are some favorite things about it? I was born in Friedrichshain and spent the first 20 years of my life there and in Prenzlauer Berg. Both neighborhoods have changed greatly and hardly have anything left in common with the places where I grew up. It was wonderful to move to Zehlendorf a few years ago. It’s green, a healthy mix of young and old, and people are less hectic and more relaxed. The Achim Freyer Kunsthaus in the area is a real gem. The Samurai Art Museum is also very worth a visit. I love going to Coffee Cabana on Teltower Damm, which has wonderful coffee roasted and brewed by lovely people. When friends come to visit from outside Berlin, where do you take them? If it’s their first time in Berlin, I’m happy to take them on the grand
tour, starting at the Brandenburg Gate, a peek at Tiergarten and the Reichstag, then down Unter den Linden. A detour to admire Gendarmenmarkt, then Museum Island, a stop to admire the foyer of the Neues Museum, then craning up to take in the TV Tower. Then we hoof it to Friedrichshain, to my favorite place to linger: the Märchenbrunnen fountain in Volkspark Friedrichshain. Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you want. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I would start with breakfast at the Königliche Gartenakademie with my mother, then hop over for a stroll through the Botanical Garden with my husband and kids. Next, a bus ride through the city to meet my good friends at the Gemäldegalerie and gaze admiringly at works by Boticelli, Bosch, and Vermeer. The salad bar in the museum café is a good spot to fuel up. If I still had energy, I’d visit the fantastic Museum of Medical History. For dinner, I’d fill up the Ishin Japanese restaurant on Schloßstraße with my friends and enjoy chirashi don and Asahi beer. And if that still wasn’t enough, I’d head to the Schaubühne theater to see Richard III with my father again, followed by a nightcap at the nearby Irish Harp. Clockwise from top left: Friedrichshain at night; the Märchenbrunnen; Sylvester muffler, illustration by Friederike Ablang; Bode Museum and Museum Island; chirashi don. Left: Kai and Ella, illustration by Friederike Ablang.
PORTRAIT AND ILLUSTRATIONS: COURTESY BY FRIEDERIKE ABLANG, © FRIEDERIKE ABLANG ; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
www.friederikeablang.com
7 – 11 March 2018 ¡ itb-berlin.com
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