Where Magazine Berlin Mar 2019 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE Â®

WHERETRAVELER.COM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

MARCH 2019

ART IS EVERYWHERE Discover what makes Berlin great

NEW!

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PLUS:

WHERE BERLIN TURNS FIVE

SPAS AND SAUNAS INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S DAY

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS 12/02/2019 12:00

DISC VER THE MALL MALL OF BERLIN

WITH THE LARGEST VARIETY OF LIFESTYLE SHOPS

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Berlin

3.19

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

5 Editor’s Note

6 Hot Dates

Keeping warm and entertained with little ones in tow.

Highlights of the month, including the Harlem Globetrotters, ITB Berlin, and Slash.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Max Ernst is in the spotlight at Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg.

6 8

ENTERTAINMENT

The circus is in town, but the contemporary kind.

SHOPPING

Shops that transform glasses into high fashion.

Our favorite German dishes - minus the meat.

18 Ask The Concierge Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.

32 Wohin am Abend German-language shows and culture

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BY THE WHERE TEAM

BY RACHEL STERN

Walk the city in style with these wardrobe must-haves.

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DINING

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AND ANNABELLE MALLIA

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

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Berlin has changed, but the cool factor remains.

16 Meet Berlin's Leading Ladies

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10 What Makes This City Great

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PLUS:

WHERE BERLIN TURNS FIVE

INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S DAY

SHOPPING

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From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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ESSENTIALS

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

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Josepha Conrad Inspiration from a Berlin-based musician and performer.

C U LT U R E

NIGHTLIFE

Drinking at the source, highlights from Berlin's 34 breweries.

58 My Perfect Day

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

DINING

Ella-Tre reb be-Str.

SLASH: COURTESY OF PR, SMKC PRESS SHOT; TROPICAL ISLANDS: COURTESY OF TROPICAL ISLANDS; NASHEEKA NEDSREAL; BOCCI 79: PHOTO BY FAHIM KASSAM; WATCH BY LIEBESKIND

SIGHTSEEING

B Mu

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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THIS MONTH'S CONTRIBUTORS Hilda Hoy, Runqi Lin, Annabelle Mallia, Joe Stange, Solveig Steinhardt, Sarah Wilson. GERMANLANGUAGE SECTION Sylvia Lundschien, listings by Denise Gransow. EDITORIAL INTERN Runqi Lin EMAIL FOR EDITORIAL STAFF: FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEWHEREBERLIN.COM OR: INFOWHEREBERLIN.COM

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Wilhelm-Kabus-Strasse 21-35, Aufgang 2, 10829 Berlin. Tel: (+49) 030 6139490. Fax: (+49) 030 61394959. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In Berlin, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a supporter of Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland eV/ Les Clefs D'Or Germany and a member of Berlin Partner. Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LLC, 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901. Printed by Vogel Druck und Medienservice GmbH, Germany

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2019

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WELCOME TO BERLIN Berlin

A PR IL 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

YOUR

CGUITIDYE

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ® ®

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

OCTOBER 2018

FROM BEHIND THE LENS

PLUS VINTAGE TOURS BERLIN FOR MILLIONAIRES

A close-up of the city's most photogenic corners

GREEN CITY Take in the spring in Berlin's best gardens PLUS: BERLIN FOR NIGHT OWLS VIRTUAL REALITY TOURS A DRINK AND A BITE

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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Happy Birthday To Us! Every issue of Where Berlin is like a living creature. From the day it is conceived to the day it gets printed, it evolves and transforms with new information, events, and reports. As time goes by, it fills up with color, photographs, art, and words. When the end of the month comes, opening the printed magazine is like meeting a friend I've known all my life. It's been exactly five years since all of this began, and we are very excited to celebrate this birthday with you. Berlin is a great, ever-changing city, and there’s nothing more fun than reporting on its numerous transformations, openings and re-openings, music, culture, converted spaces, and nature. This city just never stops surprising us. But most of all, it's great to work with so many talented writers, designers, and professionals who are really enthusiastic about their jobs. Speaking of which, I am excited to introduce the newest addition to the Where Berlin family, Jennifer Kronovet. Jenny has come to our Schöneberg office all the way from New York, and will be sharing her editorial talent and knowledge with us. As a birthday present to ourselves, we’ve also redesigned all our sections, added a few German-language pages, created new calendar concepts, and rearranged the magazine according to our readers’ preferences. In this issue, we wanted to remind you of why Berlin is so great (p. 10), and share stories of five inspiring women who call Berlin home (p. 16). And if you want to relax properly while in town, turn to page 14 for Rachel Stern's report on the city's best spas.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

BERLIN CITY GUIDE

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

APRIL 2018

DECEMBER 2017

CITY OF CONTRASTS From old-school to contemporary, green to grey, Berlin has it all.

A Night at

THE OPERA

PLUS SPRINGTIME REJUVENATION THE BUILDUP

The Staatsoper reopens with a fabulous program

PLUS

GIFT GUIDE TREAT S HOLIDAY URBAN ART MUSEU M

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Wrap up warm and get out this March – sing along to Slash, get tickets to the Harlem Globetrotters, and take in Mozart’s magic.

15 MAR

HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS

The Harlem Globetrotters, an American institution, celebrates over 90 years of mind-blowing basketball tricks and slapstick comedy. Spins, fake passes, dribbling that defies the laws of physics, and dunk after dunk are all part of the game – check out all their iconic moves on court at the Max-Schmeling-Halle. www.max-schmeling-halle.de

PATRICK’S DAY 17 ST. Don green attire and hit the town for live Irish music and a pint of Guinness. MAR Originally a church festivity in honor of the 4th-century Christian missionary and patron saint of Ireland, St. Patrick’s Day has turned into a celebration of Irishness around the globe. The Irish Pub at the Europa-Center has one of the longest bars (at 36 meters) in Europe. www.pub-berlin.de

AFRICA! FROM AFRICA! Pure joie de vivre! This 28 MAR two-hour revue-spectacle of dance, music, and acrobats takes full advantage of the exhilarating sounds, colors, cultural diversity, and unique spirit of an entire continent. www.afrikaafrika.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

SLASH 4 known for his mop of black, curly hair protruding out from under his hat, MAR Well Slash is considered one of the greatest guitarists in rock history and achieved worldwide success as lead guitarist of American hard-rock band Guns N’ Roses. This year’s Living the Dream Tour supports the release of Slash’s fourth solo album, which also features Myles Kennedy & The Conspirators. Don’t miss them all playing together at the Verti Music Hall. www.verti-music-hall.de

FROM THE MAGIC 1 MAR FLUTE For the last 25 years, the Staatsoper unter den Linden has enchanted audiences with a traditional production of Mozart’s Magic Flute by August Endering. This year, however, the theater reexamines the masterpiece through the eyes of US director Yuval Sharon. His new production is just as imaginative as Endering’s, but also aesthetically different, playing with collage and colors in experimental ways. Endering’s production will remain in the program all season, but this month, check out Sharon’s contemporary interpretation of the Salzburg genius’s most magical masterpiece. www.staatsoper-berlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

MARCH

Already planning your next trip abroad? This is the world’s largest travel fair and a great way to discover new destinations in just a few hours. Once again taking over the sprawling Messe Berlin, the expo welcomes around 10,000 exhibitors from more than 180 countries and regions, with a special focus this year on partner country Malaysia. ITB is open to the public for just two days, with plenty of entertainment and food tastings to get you packing. www.itb-berlin.de

8 MAR

MELISSA ETHERIDGE

Melissa Etheridge, female rock icon, shot into the spotlight with her critically acclaimed debut album, which featured such empassioned songs as Bring Me Some Water. But it is her fourth album, Yes, I Am, that represents her zenith with megahits such as I Am the Only One and Come To My Window. To celebrate the album’s 25th anniversary, Melissa Ethridge is touring Europe, and will be performing the highlights of her sizzling repertoire at Tempodrom. www.tempodrom.de

The Game of Thrones Concert Show at Theater am Potsdamer Platz brings the TV show alive. Take a trip to the tropics with the Tropische Nächte concert event at the Botanical Garden. The spectacular ice show Atlantis – Holiday on Ice delves into the story of the mythical city. Immerse in cutting-edge music at Experimontag night at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude venue. Classic rock fans: The Australian Pink Floyd Show at Tempodrom takes "cover band" to a new level. French musician Yann Tiersen performs his unique style of folktronica at Admiralspalast tonight. Love showtunes? The Night of the Musicals show at Tempodrom unites diverse musical top hits. Melissa Ethridge plays all her greatests hits at Tempodrom tonight as part of her Yes I Am tour. Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of the few theaters that plays movies in English. Picasso fans won't want to miss his masterful paintings exhibited at Museum Berggruen. Young folk-rock heartthrob Shawn Mendes sings his heart out at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Get enchanted by Mozart's most legendary opera, The Magic Flute, at the Staatsoper. The avant-pop performance group known as Xiu Xiu takes the stage at Berghain Kantine. Hear the soaring vocals of Florence + the Machine's new album, High as Hope, at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Enjoy the thrilling basketball tricks of the Harlem Globetrotters at Max-Schmeling Halle tonight. The Vaudeville Variety Burlesque Revue show heats up the Wintergarten theater. Jean-Guihen Queyras performs interpretations of Bach's cello suites at Pierre-Boulez Saal. The German Chamber Orchestra performs a concerto by Peteris Vasks at the Philharmonie. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1 pm. Let out your inner dancing queen at the Abbamania tribute show at Tempodrom. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at the Konzerthaus with "caffeine for the ears." Still going strong after all these years, the Dave Matthews Band is back to play Tempodrom. Walk on the wild side at Berlin's famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park. Discover local artists at the And Berlin Will Always Need You show at Martin Gropius Bau. Be entertained by the titillating retro style of the Firebirds burlesque show at Wintergarten. Admire the stunning bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Catch Afrika! Afrika! at Theater am Potsdamer Platz, a thrilling mix of dance, music & acrobatics. The Berlin Staatsballett dances the classic Onegin at the Staatsoper on Unter den Linden. Hear the latest in the Brahms concert series in the Philharmonie's chamber music hall. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße der 17. Juni is a must.

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

AFRIKA, AFRIKA! PHOTO BY NILZ BOEHME; ETHERIDGE: COURTESY OF PR; HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS: (L-R) ACE_JACKSON_FIREFLY FISHER_THUNDER LAW_2017 TOUR_COLUMBUS, COURTESY OF HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS; ITB: COURTESY OF ITB; SLASH, SMKC PRESS SHOT; ZAUBERFLÖTE: PHOTO BY MONIKA RITTERSHAUS; ST PATRICK’S DAY: © ISTOCK.

ITB BERLIN

9 MAR

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SUCCESSFUL TRAVEL BUSINESS IS IN OUR NATURE. Trade Visitors: 6–10 March 2019 General Public: 9–10 March 2019 itb-berlin.com

Official Partner Country ITB Berlin 2019

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN IS GREAT

n March 2014, when we first launched Where Berlin, Berlin was considered a creatively chaotic hub for artists and musicians. Is the city still this way? Berlin has certainly changed dramatically in the last five years, probably more so than any other capital in Europe. Part of this change inludes new cultural spots such as the C/O Berlin photography gallery, the restored Haus am Waldsee, Barenboim’s Boulez Saal, the Urban Art Museum, and the new Staatsoper Unter den Linden. Berlin’s commercial side has expanded too, with three new, huge malls (Mall of Berlin, BIKINI Berlin, and the East Side Mall) and entirely new neighborhoods meant to accommodate the growing population. The anything-goes attitude that made Berlin so famous is now a little harder to spot. There are fewer rundown buildings, fewer cranes in the sky, fewer occupied industrial spaces. But we don’t believe that Berlin has “lost its cool,” as some have said. Actually, we think that Berlin is as creative a city as ever. Here’s why:

One cool thing about post-1989 Berlin has always been the abundance of converted spaces. The Feuerle Collection is hidden behind an inconspicuous door to what used to be a WWII telecommunications bunker. John Pawson, a master in minimalist architecture, cleaned up the bunker but kept the concrete walls, stalactites, water stains, and holes. The space itself is both visually impressive and peaceful, a great combination for exploring Désiré Feuerle’s collection, which juxtaposes Southeast Asian sculptures, Imperial Chinese furniture, and international contemporary art while playing with the theme of life and death. Visits can be arranged by appointment only. Hallesches Ufer 70, thefeuerlecollection.org

Art Is Everywhere

In Berlin you just find art everywhere. A grandiose former courthouse in Charlottenburg is the unlikely yet perfect setting for Bocci 79, a showroom for the striking lighting designs of Bocci – lighting pieces so beautiful they are works of art. Bocci is far from local – the company is headquartered in Vancouver – but they chose Berlin as the site for the brand’s second base, finding inspiration in the rich cultural offerings of the capital. Wander from floor to floor in the museum-like space and discover the stunning, gravity-defying light installations, including Bocci’s famed pendant lights, cascading down the six-story atrium. Kantstr. 79, www.bocci.ca/79/

XXXXXXPHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE OR PRESS COMMAND + SHIFT THEN CLICK TO CHANGE

In the last five years, Berlin has grown and developed without losing its creative vibe. Solveig Steinhardt and Annabelle Mallia tell us why it’s such a great city.

History Meets Art

FEUERLE COLLECTION: PHOTO BY PRICKLES PR; BOCCI 79: PHOTO BY FAHIM KASSAM; BAT AND GRUNEWALD TOWER: © ISTOCK; FRAGRANCES: ARND HEISSEN, PHOTO BY RICARDA SPIEGEL; PERGAMON. MEISTERWERKE DER ANTIKEN METROPOLE UND 360°-PANORAMA VON YADEGAR ASISI, PANORAMA VON YADEGAR ASISI AUS DER VOGELSCHAU, VISUALISIERUNG 2018, © ASISI

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Natural Views

A great way to understand just how green Berlin is is to climb up to the top of one if its towers. The Siegessäule, the TV Tower, and the Funkturm all offer great views of the Tiergarten and the Grunewald forest, but the lesser-known Grunewald Tower offers an even more natural perspective. Built in the late 18th century to mark the 100th birthday of emperor Wilhelm I, this brick tower is a Gothic-revival-style building that sits right in the middle of the city’s biggest forest. It is only 55 meters high, but its 204 steps are exhausting, so take it easy, and remember that the elderly queen consort of Romania died after her visit in 1916. The reward is a stunning panoramic view over the expansive forest, Wannsee Lake, and Havelland as far as the eye can see, and also includes the former NSA listening station of Teufelsberg. Havelchaussee 61

New Ways to Drink

Leave it to Berlin to help you take the simple act of having a drink to the next level. Fragrances is the world’s first bar to pair cocktails with luxury perfumes. Every drink at this chic and classy spot tucked into the back lobby at the Ritz-Carlton is inspired by perfume houses, such as Bulgari and Guerlain. The “menu” is a multi-sensory display of perfume bottles, ingredients, and photographs, all as artfully executed as the drink you will receive. Potsdamer Platz 3, www.ritzcarlton.com

City Fauna

Ancient History Comes Alive

Did you know Berlin is home to more bats than any other central European city? Take a trip out to Citadel Spandau, where one of Europe’s largest bat colonies has been occupying the vaults of this 16thcentury military fortress pretty much since it was built. Torch-lit tours during the summer months provide a fascinating glimpse into the bats’ dark habitat. Or head down into the Fledermauskeller (bat cellar), where, yearround, just a glass wall separates you from a swarm of tropical bats. Am Juliusturm. www.zitadelle-spandau.de

Berlin-based artist Yadegar Asisi has been creating the world’s largest panoramas since 2003 and is already well known in town for his Wall Panorama near Checkpoint Charlie, which recreates a Kreuzberg street by the border at the time of the Wall. Asisi now has a new piece in Berlin: PERGAMON. Masterpieces of the ancient metropolis and 360° panorama. The panorama takes viewers to the ancient metropolis of Pergamon in 129 AD, right in the middle of various sacrificial scenes staged on the forecourt of the Great Altar. Visiting this installation is a great way to get a glimpse of ancient Pergamon as we wait for the real altar ^in the Pergamon Museum to reopen after its renovations. Am Kupfergraben 2. www.smb.museum

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN IS GREAT

A Multitude of Foods

Free Culture

Urban Goes forest

An abandoned train depot in Schöneberg has become a true gem for lovers of trains, nature, food, and converted spaces – basically, it’s a place for all. Between WWII and the end of the Cold War, redevelopment in many areas of Berlin was essentially put on hold. This included some train depots, where nature just took over while waiting. At the former railway yard Naturpark Südgelände Schöneberg, more than four decades of neglect allowed flora to grow back on and around the train tracks. The park is one of the first officially conserved urban-industrial nature sites – a fascinating mix of nature and relics of the stream train era. Foodies will also enjoy a stop at the café, which serves organic quiches, creative takes on German dishes, and great coffee. S Priesterweg

One of the last remaining market halls from the late 19th century, Markthalle Neun was saved from the clutches of commercial chains and resurrected once again into a bustling food lover’s destination that just keeps getting better. In addition to their daily lunches at eatery Kantine, a weekly farmers’ market, and the Street Food Thursday event, they now offer a monthly breakfast market and other special events such as this month’s coffee tasting on 15 March. Eisenbahnstr. 42, www.markthalleneun.de

Tuesday at 1 pm might be an odd time for a concert, but that’s when Berlin’s prestigious Philharmonie holds its weekly free performances. These concert, which take place in the building’s foyer, are open to all and are an emblem of Berlin’s cultural generosity. They feature top-notch musicians from the Philharmonic as well as special guests. Despite the classy location, there’s no dress code, and the attitude is easy going. Once the few chairs available are full, people simply sit on the steps or on the floor. But make sure to get there early because entrance is capped to 1,500. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de

Affordable Luxuries

At Königliche Garten Akademie (Altensteinstr. 15a, www. koenigliche-gartenakademie.de), you can have brunch inside a greenhouse, surrounded by nature, and feel like English royalty as you shop for Victorian-stlye garden equipment in the adjacent greenhouse. At BIKINI Berlin (Budapester Str. 38–50, www.bikiniberlin.de), you can browse curated collections of design items and fashion and dine at Kantini, the mall’s hip international-street-food court while also spying on the monkeys from the mall’s window, which overlooks the Berlin zoo. At Cafe am neuen See (www. cafeamneuensee.de) in the middle of Tiergarten park you can enjoy the spring’s first rays of sun at the pond-side Beergarten or sip a glass of wine in the warm and cozy restaurant. Even luxury is democratic in Berlin.

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UNWIND Rachel Stern tested wellness hotspots in Berlin and beyond.

ne of the best ways to rejuvenate after being out in the cold is to get hot in one of the city’s saunas and spas. Be it a traditional Turkish bath or a club-like sauna with underwater music, these wellness hotspots are also windows into local culture. Visitors might get their first taste of FKK (Freikörperkultur, or “naked body culture”), the norm for how most Germans dip in spas. HEAVENLY RETREATS A visit to Vabali (www.vabali.de) feels like hanging out in the backyard of a billionaire. Multiple heated pools, hot tubs, and individual herbal saunas are located in a beautifully designed garden courtyard. Above, bathrobe-clad guests sit on lavish balconies sipping creative cocktails. Head inside the multi-story main building for an endless variety of saunas, foot baths, and steam baths. Guests often lounge around with a book and read between treatments or before taking a meditation and yoga classes. If you’re seeking both a taste of Berlin’s nightlife and a wellness getaway, look no further than Liquidrom (www.liquidromberlin.de). The hip spa near Potsdamer Platz features a salt water pool where you can float and look up at the sky through a window at the peak of the room’s arches, and listen to music as it’s piped under water, often from live DJs. There’s also a variety of saunas, such as a healing Himalayan salt sauna and an

extra hot Finnish sauna. For some additional luxury and exclusive treatments, head to Guerlain spa inside the Waldorf Astoria (www.waldorfastoria3. hilton.com). Highlights here are a cloudshaped pool (pictured below), a sauna area, and a whole range of beauty treatments inspired by the 200-year-old French cosmetics house that gave the spa its name. SECRET HOTSPOTS A bit further east in Friedrichshain is Kiezsauna (www.kiezsauna.de). This no-frill neighbourhood spa is a lesser-known spot, and is popular among locals for its low prices and peaceful, leafy terrace. It’s not far from from Alexanderplatz, and it has a 45°C steam bath and a sizzling 90° Finnish-style sauna. For a fancy upgrade, the super sleek Yi Spa (www.yi-spa.com) is perfect for body and facial treatments, such as peeling masks, foot scrubs, and traditional Thai massages. The space is relaxed, but also trendy and modern.

From top to bottom: Liquidrom’s flotation pool; the interior at Liquidrom; massages at Guerlain spa; the cloud pool at Guerlain spa.

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WHERE NOW | FEATURE UNWIND Women can participate in an 800-year-old bathing practice at Hamam Berlin (www. hamamberlin.de), a ladies-only Turkish bath in Kreuzberg. Guests can savor strong steam baths and skilled massages in a regal, Turkish interior, and also wash in the warmth of beautifully tiled bathing room. If you’re sticking around Berlin longer, check out the women’s center the Hamam is situated within, which offers a variety of sports and practical classes, as well as a daycare center. TROPICAL WARMTH OUTSIDE BERLIN If you’re craving some tropical weather, an ideal substitute is Tropical Islands (www. tropical-islands.de), situated some 65 kilometers outside of Berlin. Think of it as a sprawling spa/amusement park combo. This giant heated bubble has a huge spa area with several saunas and hot tubs, but also a family-oriented section with swimming pools, a beach, water slides, and games and rides for kids, including a lazy river that goes outside even in winter. For another megaspa experience in the Spreewald, head 40 minutes away from the center of Berlin to Spreewelten (www.spreewelten.de). Ideal

VABALI: COURTESY OF VABALI; LIQUIDROM: COPURTESY OF LIQUIDROM; GUERLAIN SPA: COURTESY OF GUERLAIN SPA: SPREEWELTEN: COURTESY OF SPREEWELTEN.

Clockwise from top right: Tropical Islands; the library room at Spreewelten; Spreewelten’s penguins; massages at Tropical islands.

for families, the park includes a “penguin world”, where you can swim next to the cute creatures. You’ll also find all sorts of warm-water wonders, such as jacuzzis, a wave pool, fast whirlpools, and a salty pool. Pay an extra €10 and you’ll get access to the extensive sauna area, which includes indoor-outdoor pools, hot tubs, various saunas, a library, and a fireplace. Another classy getaway is Bad Saarow (www.therme.bad-saarow.de), which is situated next to a beautiful lake that you can admire while soaking in 36°C waters from natural springs. It has a flotation pool, warm waterfalls, whirlpools of different temperatures, and cozy areas carved aside for chats with friends. Bad Saarow is slightly pricier and less family-friendly than the other two Brandenburg Bäder, but you can get there easily by regional train. www.wheretraveler.com 15

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WHERE NOW | TOP 5

DID YOU KNOW? International Women’s Day (8 March) is Berlin’s brandnew official holiday, starting this year.

Clockwise from left: Nasheeka Nedsreal; Annette Krüger and the volunteers from #BIKEGEES; Mariarosa Cioni; Monika Sprüth pictured with Philomene Magers (seated); Installation Forever at the Sprüth Magers gallery; Tacita Dean.

Ladies In Berlin Every year, women defy expectations and smash glass ceilings across the globe. This International Women’s Day, Sarah Wilson picked out five pioneering ladies at the top of their game in Berlin. Nasheeka Nedsreal Like many of Berlin’s residents, Nasheeka was not born in the city but immigrated from America to work as a performer. Nedsreal’s work, which incorporates movement, dance, and theater, explores female and African diasporic narratives. She has performed all over Berlin, from the KW Institute for Contemporary Art to Ballhaus. Nedsreal also founded “Soul Sisters Berlin”, which brings together and empowers black women in the city.

Monika Sprüth Named “one of the most powerful people in the art world” by The Guardian in 2014, Monika

Sprüth is a German art dealer, and is the founder, together with Philomene Magers, of the Sprueth Magers gallery in Berlin. Her gallery champions women’s art, with Sprüth’s “Eau de Cologne” series of magazines and group exhibitions featuring all-female lineups.

Tacita Dean An accomplished visual artist, Tacita Dean lives and works in LA and Berlin, with studios set up in both. Her primary medium is film, and her work muses on themes of landscape, history, and the sea, as well as on film itself. You can catch some of her work in the Berlinische Galerie (Alte Jakobstraße 124).

Mariarosa Cioni Flying in the face of assumptions that careers in STEM are for men, Mariarosa Cioni has excelled in her field of astrophysics. She specializes in near-infrared observations and studies of stellar populations in galaxies, and sits as a joint Professor at the Leibniz Institute for Astrophysics Potsdam and the University of Potsdam. A trailblazer in her field, Cioni has studied everywhere from Bologna to Edinburgh, and in 2016 was awarded the

“Consolidator Grant” to conduct her research - one of the most prestigious grants available to young scientists.

Annette Krüger Seeing the large number of refugees in Berlin, Annette Krüger realized the potential of teaching refugee women how to ride a bike. She gathered together a small group of volunteers, and #BIKEYGEES was born. Hundreds of women have since received free training in the heart of Berlin, and the training is still going strong.

MONIKA SPRÜTH: ©ROBBIE LAWRENCE; INSTALLATION VIEW, BARBARA KRUGER, ‘FOREVER’, SPRÜTH MAGERS, BERLIN, SEPTEMBER 16, 2017 - JANUARY 20, 2018. PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIMO OHLER; NASHEEKA NEDSREAL: PHOTO BY ANGELA SISTO. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND FRITH STREET GALLERY, LONDON.

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Philippe Marseille from Waldorf Astoria Berlin shares his insider tips. www.lcdg.org

What would your perfect day look like? My perfect day starts with a hearty breakfast at Benedict on Uhlandstraße, followed by a walk along Fasanenstraße and Kurfürstendamm to check out their many galleries and shops. A spa visit in the afternoon and then a nice meal at a restaurant or a drink at a bar in the evening completes the ideal day. Where do you take your friends and family when they visit? Berlin offers so much. I usually start with the city highlights like Brandenburg Gate, Museum Island, the Reichstag, and the East Side Gallery, and always recommend the extraordinary underground tours by Berlin Unterwelten. What are your insider tips for Berlin? I mostly enjoy strolling around Hackescher Markt and its hidden shopping streets, like Mulackstraße or Münzstraße. I also love the concept at Bikini Berlin: The little “box shops” on the ground floor change regularly, so you can always find something different and discover new labels.

Describe Berlin in three words. Varied, multicultural, inspiring. Where is the best place to relax in this urban jungle? Our library at the Waldorf Astoria Berlin, where you can relax and enjoy a traditional afternoon tea with a view over West Berlin and of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Tips for a German specialty? There is one dish that is well known beyond this country's borders and popular among locals and visitors alike: currywurst! What sets Berlin apart from other cities? It has a unique history that draws throngs of guests to the capital each year. Also, Berlin's impressive museums house such cultural treasures as the bust of Nefertiti and the Pergamon Altar. And with its green spaces, lakes, and rivers, Berlin's nature provides a way to retreat from hectic city life." A romantic place in Berlin? Schlosspark Charlottenburg, with the historic palace in the background, is perfect for a romantic walk.

From top to bottom: The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church; currywurst; The Berlin bear; Benedict; table settings at Benedict; the Asisi panorama.

CURRYWURST, BUDDYBEAR, GEDAECHTNISKIRCHE: © ISTOCK. BENEDICT: COURTESY OF BENEDICT, PHOTOS BY MARCUS BRAUMANN; ASISI PANORAMA: PERGAMON. MEISTERWERKE DER ANTIKEN METROPOLE UND 360°-PANORAMA VON YADEGAR ASISI, PANORAMA VON YADEGAR ASISI MIT BLICK AUF DEN BURGBERG, VISUALISIERUNG 2018, © ASISI

Ask the

The perfect Berlin souvenir? A Berlin Buddy Bear.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP! Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, spa services, booking transportation, shipping goods home, or simply to ask for recommendations.

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SIGHTSEEING

Pottery painting at Paint Your Style.

Child’s Play

pring is upon us, but let’s not get too excited – it’s still chilly at these latitudes. If you are in town with kids in tow, these indoor activities will keep you all entertained:

XXXXXXXXX

1. Animal Attractions The Aquarium Berlin (Hardenbergplatz 8, www.aquarium-berlin.de) is home to more than 500 different species, not only aquatic. There are also insects, snakes, and frogs. Favorites are the reef sharks, iridescent jellyfish, and crocodiles. Little ones will especially love the petting basin with its very friendly carp. You can easily spend a day here, or buy a combined ticket with the neighboring Zoo and visit their warm, indoor enclosures. 2. Crazy Scientists Behind the Deutsches Technikmuseum is the Spectrum Science Center (Möckernstr. 26, www.sdtb.de/Spectrum). Inside are four floors of hands-on (some even wholebody) experiments exploring everything from mechanics and motion to electricity

and magnetism. All in the name of fun and science. 3. Self Made A family afternoon spent at Paint Your Style (Bleibtreustr. 4, www.paintyourstyle. eu) is guaranteed to unleash your creative side, and after you’ll have souvenirs covered. Pick one of the blank ceramic objects off the shelves and get to work decorating it – perhaps with a Berlin motif for grandma. You will need to factor in a couple of days, though, for glazing and firing before your finished product is ready for pickup. 4. Historical Tricks Drenched in history, Tempelhofer Feld (www.gruen-berlin.de/tempelhofer-feld) was the location of the famous Berlin Airlift

and now is a popular recreational park. Near the Columbiadamm entrance stands the Cabuwazi (www.cabuwazi.de) circus tent. Pop in on the weekend between 3 pm and 6 pm and have the kids test their balancing or juggling skills. 5. Testing… 1,2,3 Your first interaction at the Museum of Communication (Leipziger Str. 16, www.mfk-berlin.de) is with with robots following you around to give information about museum, which has interactive displays on the history and development of communication, from smoke signals to Morse code to the pneumatic post pipe. The Treasure Chamber downstairs home to the museum’s most valuable exhibits in dark columns that come to life as you approach. Anything but boring! BY ANNABELLE MALLIA

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SIGHTSEEING

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

MAJOR SIGHTS

Friedrich Schiller. U Französische Straße, Stadtmitte. E3

The “Alex” TV Tower

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt

Berliner Dom

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza, filled with cafes and cinemas; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola the building now hosts concerts and MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the intercultural events. Open daily massive neo-Renaissance building, 10am–7pm. € prices vary. now the seat of German Parliament, www.hkw.de. has been bombed, set on fire, John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. wrapped by artist Christo, and T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3 What used to be the city’s most renovated by Lord Norman Foster.

Brandenburg Gate

Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche

MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Gendarmenmarkt The harmonious square was named after the gens d’armes, a Prussian army regiment of French Huguenots. Designed in the late 1600s, it includes two symmetrical cathedrals, one French and the other German, and the majestic Konzerthaus. In the middle of the square stands a monument to Germany’s most acclaimed poet of all time,

THE BERLIN WALL

Walter Ulbricht,

DID YOU KNOW?

central airport is now a four-hectare public park whose runways are used for cycling, skating, and many other sports.

This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the

U.S. President

Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES

Also see HISTORY MUSEUMS in the MUSEUMS & GALLERIES section Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist’s aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

1961 head of the

1963 wishing to

West Germans

1963 John F. Kennedy

1970 dissatisfaction

Economic

1974 Guillaume,

Socialist Unity Party, erects a barbed-wire fence dividing Germany into two parts.

visit the East must obtain a visa from the government.

delivers his “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech at West Berlin’s Rathaus Schöneberg.

grows in East Germany, as food supplies run short; 22 strikes attest to the civil unrest.

aide to West German chancellor Willy Brandt, is arrested as a spy.

WALL: PHOTO © BERLIN WALL NEAR OSTBAHNHOF, © ESTRAFALARIUS, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; BODE MUSEUM: © ISTOCK.

The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Günter

Main moments in the Wall’s 29-year history.

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SIGHTSEEING

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

Sunrise at the Bode Museum.

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. S Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Cold War Black Box This small building near Checkpoint Charlie provides a good introduction to the history of the Cold War through maps, videos, historic documents, photographs, and objects. Open daily 10am–6pm. €5/2. Under-14s free. www. zentrumkalter-krieg.de. Friedrichstr. 47. T: 030.2163571. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called

East Germany

Ronald Reagan

upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall’s eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation.The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Wo war die Mauer?

Foto: Nationales Denkmal für die Opfer des Mauerbaus und der deutschen Teilung an der Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, Hans-Hermann Hertle

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

Where did the Berlin Wall run?

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to

Dismantling of

On 9 November:

1984 boycotts the

1987 gives a speech

1989 the Iron Curtain

1989 Socialist Politbüro

Summer Olympics in Los Angeles.

at Brandenburg Gate demanding that Mikhail Gorbachev “tear down this wall.”

begins as Hungary cuts the barbed wire around its border.

member Schabowski mistakenly tells a press conference the border will be opened immediately.

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Another image here maybe?

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SIGHTSEEING its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built by prisoners as a model concentration camp in 1936, Sachsenhausen’s first inmates were mainly political prisoners, whereas Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” were brought here a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host a number of exhibitions about extermination methods, daily life of prisoners and the medical experiments performed on them. Open 8:30am–6pm (until 4:30pm midOct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed on Mondays. € free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

FAMILY ATTRACTIONS Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Legoland Discovery Center Everything is built with the famous plastic bricks at this indoor Lego wonderland. There are videos explaining how Lego is made, a Lego factory, a 4D cinema with tactile effects, a Duplo village for the very little ones, and a medieval world with knights and dragons. Kids can build their own structures and try them out at the test centre. Daily 10am– 6pm (last admission 5pm) except 24 Dec. €16 (from €8 if you book online, under-3s free). Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Sea Life, and Berlin Dungeon. www.legolanddiscoverycentre.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 01806.66690110. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam’s Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted “a place to be without cares.” The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berlinerunterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Tempelhof Airport Building

What are those cobblestone-sized blocks we sometimes see on sidewalks, engraved with a name, a date, and the name of a concentration camp? Created by sculptor and conceptual artist Gunter Demnig, these small sculptures are mini-memorials to commemorate individual victims of Nazi persecution by reminding passersby of where those people lived. The first Stolpersteine were laid in 1996 without permission from the local authorities, but the project now has the support of all 12 Berlin districts. Gunter Demnig has laid over 5000 “stumbling stones” himself, and there are currently more than 38,000 all over Europe. www.stolpersteine-berlin.de

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

Here Lived…

MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city’s eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

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„MAX ERNST, ZEICHENDIEB“, AUSSTELLUNGSANSICHT SAMMLUNG SCHARF-GERSTENBERG, 2018 © VG BILD-KUNST BONN, 2018 STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE / DAVID VON BECKER; MAX ERNST L’OISEAU ROSE, 1956; DER ROSA VOGEL / THE PINK BIRD ÖL AUF LEINWAND STAATLICHE XXXXXXXXX MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE © VG BILD-KUNST, BONN 2018 BPK / STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE / JÖRG P. ANDERS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The exhibition at the Sammlung Scharf Gerstenberg.

Max Ernst: Artist, Innovator,Thief

s anything original in art? The Surrealists might have said that everything and nothing is original. Their avowed mission played with elements of surprise, absurdity, or unexpected juxtaposition. Many Surrealists went searching for inspiration within previously neglected or underappreciated places like dreams, trances, and the murky depths of the mind’s psychic stew. The providence of the

symbols, signs, and images they used was of no importance; what mattered was free association. Borrowing or stealing? What’s the difference? A new exhibition at Charlottenburg’s Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg (www.smb. museum) probes the question further, exploring how Max Ernst, one of Germany’s best-known Surrealist artists, lifted and appropriated a variety of marks and symbols in his works. Just opened in December, the Stealer of Marks exhibition focuses primarily on Ernst’s later works, created after he had returned to France after years in the Arizona desert. The drawings, paintings, and prints in the exhibition revolve around typical themes in his oeuvre that are borrowed or perhaps stolen, depending how one wants to look at it. Cryptographic elements reminiscent of Egyptian hieroglyphics not only recall early Surrealist experiments with automatic writing, but also draw a visual connection to the Ancient Egyptian temple gate temporarily installed at the entrance to the Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg museum.

It’s a fitting exhibition theme for an artist widely known for his invention of two techniques that are themselves a form of appropriation: frottage, which uses pencil rubbings of objects to create unexpected textures, and grattage, for which Ernst would scrape wet paint across a canvas to create an imprint of an object beneath – worn wooden floorboards, for example, or the spine of a fish. In addition to works from the Sammlung der Nationalgalerie, such as the large-format painting Der Erwählte des Bösen (The Evil Elect), Stealer of Marks also includes rarely seen works from private collections. Interspersed between Ernst’s works are artifacts from the Berlin State Museums’ Egyptian Museum collection, a juxtaposition that the original Surrealists would have likely applauded. For even more insights into the movement, don’t miss the museum’s permanent Surreal Worlds exhibition, which includes pieces from Surrealism stars like René Magritte and Salvador Dalí. Schloßstr. 70. www.smb.museum. T: 030 266424242 HILDA HOY

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Our roundup of the best exhibitions on this month.

Museums Calendar THE MOMENT IS ETERNITY

SYRIA’S CULTURAL LANDSCAPE

THE EXOTIC COUNTRY

Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, time, and society in the fleeting moment.

Preservation and archiving in times of war.

Photo reportages on West Germany by Stefan Moses.

ZOO MOCKBA

me Collectors Room, to 22 Apr: 400 toy animals from the former Soviet Union.

RAINBOW ARCADE

Schwules Museum, to 13 May: The queer story of video games, with research by the LGBTQ Game Archive.

OBJECTS OF WONDER. BRITISH SCULPTURE 1950S –PRESENT

PalaisPopulaire, to 27 May:

Over 70 works from the Tate Collection, including works by Henry Moore and Eileen Agar.

BERLIN 18/19 Märkisches Museum, to 19 May: The November Revolution in Berlin and its repercussions, visible to the present day.

Pergamon Museum, from 28 Feb:

THE LIVES OF IMAGES

Museum Berggruen, to 19 May:

Drawings and sculptures by Pablo Picasso, Paul Klee, Henri Matisse, and Georges Braque.

LEITER. LYNCH. NEWTON: NUDES.

Newton Foundation, to 19 May:

The museum’s first exhibition to be dedicated to nude photography.

MANTEGNA AND BELLINI

Gemäldegalerie, from 1 Mar:

Around 100 works of Andrea Mantegna and Giovanni Bellini.

40 YEARS OF GERMAN SPACE FLIGHT.

Technikmuseum, to 31 Mar:

Celebrating four decades of Germans in space.

HISTORY MUSEUMS DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €9.80/6. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. Christmas tree decorations from the 20th century until today. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily

German History Museum, to 12 May:

ERNST LUDWIG KIRCHNER

Brücke Museum, to 31 Mar: Kirchner works from when he moved to the Swiss Alps to escape WWI.

FROM ARTS AND CRAFTS TO THE BAUHAUS: ART AND DESIGN, A NEW UNITY.

Bröhan Museum, to 5 May

Celebrating the 100th birthday of the Bauhaus.

BORIS MIKHAILOV. BEFORE SLEEP/AFTER DRINKING

C/O Berlin from 9 Mar:

Everyday scenes depict the aftermath of the Soviet collapse.

10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78 T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,

shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum. de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents. Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50.

Bauhaus design at the Bröhan Museum

www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Museum in der Kulturbrauerei What was life like in Communist East Germany? The permanent exhibition Everyday Life in the GDR at the Kulturbrauerei answers this question with such diverse objects as breakfast dishes, sports uniforms, and ad posters, as well as witness accounts, film material, and more. The aim is to preserve a cultural memory of a country that may no longer exist, though its legacy lives on. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm). Closed Mon. € free. www.hdg.de. Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.467777911. U Eberswalder Straße. F1–F2

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon– 6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the

COURTESY OF THE BRÖHAN MUSEUM: BAUHAUS

me Collectors Room, to 1 Apr:

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

ANCIENT ART MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

AUSSTELLUNGSANSICHT „DER ELEFANT IM RAUM“, HAMBURGER BAHNHOF – MUSEUM FÜR GEGENWART – BERLIN 2018 © NATIONALGALERIE – STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / THOMAS BRUNS © VG BILD-KUNST, BONN 201

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through

end of 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

ART AND DESIGN

Dalí – The Exhibition

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

The Temporary Bauhaus-Archiv Celebrate 100 years of Bauhaus in Berlin! While the original Bauhaus-Archiv/Museum für Gestaltung is being renovated and extended and will remain closed until further notice, you can visit the temporary space with the bauhaus-shop® in Charlottenburg. Every Saturday, 10 am - 2 pm: bauhaus_lab | drop in. Engage with design in a practical way! Admission free. Open daily, except Sunday, 10 am – 6 pm. www.bauhaus.de Knesebeckstr. 1-2 T: 030/30641768, U Ernst-ReuterPlatz D4

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5.

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

me Collectors Room

The Elephant in the Room at Hamburger Bahnhof

Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” Wed– mon noon–6pm. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2 www.wheretraveler.com 25

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The

Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank

pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. www.db-palaispopulaire.de. Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Sammlung Boros

An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

SCIENCE MUSEUMS Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things

technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments.

Museum of Communication

Museum of Natural History Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe’s first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

FAMILY MUSEUMS

Also see FAMILY ATTRACTIONS in the SIGHTSEEING section Children’s Museum Labyrinth One of Berlin’s two children’s museums. Two floors of activity stations on the theme of construction. Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Fri and Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.labyrinth-kindermuseum. de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map

Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE A hands-on museum for children. There is a climbing structure, a maze, a soap making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. www. machmitmuseum.de. Senefelderstr. 5/6. T: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1

Computer Game Museum

The female form has enthralled and inspired artists for centuries. An ongoing photography exhibition at the Helmut Newton Foundation (p. 25) explores some of the wide-ranging perspectives of the male gaze on the female nude, from the body as landscape, as mannequin, or the object of sexual obsession. The three artists in Saul Leiter. David Lynch. Helmut Newton. approach their subjects from different backgrounds and eras. Leiter rose to prominence in the 1950s as a fashion photographer in the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and British Vogue; Newton made a splash in the 1960s with his eroticized, fetishistic fashion photos. Lynch, meanwhile, got his start in the late 1970s with his surreal, avant-garde films, and though he is best known for his cinematic achievements, Lynch is also a trained painter and passionate photographer. The contrasts between the three artists expose the diverse potential of the body as subject. Exhibition continues until 19 May.

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the “spice chamber,” and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Deutsches Spionage Museum (German Spy Museum) Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

DAVID LYNCH, UNTITLED, LODZ, 2000S, © DAVID LYNCH.

Laying It Bare

Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games. Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

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ENTERTAINMENT

CIRK LA PUTYKA, ROOTS, COURTESY OF CHAMÄLEON, PHOTO BY TOMAS TRESTIK

A performance by Cirk La Putyka at Chamäleon

The Circus Is In Town

idden in a corner of one of the Hackesche Höfe courtyards is a small theater called Chamäleon (p. 30). This is the only theater in Berlin that exclusively specializes in contemporary circus, and it’s more than just a perfomance space: with tables for the audience and a small menu of snacks and drinks, it’s also a cafè and restaurant, giving the performances a communal feel. For those who equate the circus with lions jumping through hoops, contemporary circuses are something different – think poetry and theater, combined with the mystery and amazing physicality of classical

circuses. Blended together, these features achieve a genre of art that goes well beyond tricks to engage deep questions about our lives. One famous example of a contemporary circus is the Cirque du Soleil, but since the genre is varied and always expanding you never know what you might see. Anything from street-art feats like elaborate juggling to more intellectual combinations of acrobatics and literature to performers who question the very purpose of performance might be part of this rich, evolving art form. This month’s show at Chamäleon, Memories Of Fools, is the latest creation of the awardwinning company Cirk La Putyka, a regular

performer at Chamäleon. Originally from the Czech Republic, La Putyka brings to town talented acrobats, puppeteers, gymnasts, dancers, actors, and jugglers who energize universal stories through gravity-defying acts and powerful acrobatic performances. The show, which will be on until August, is a journey of discovery through human nature, entirely focused on the problems of memory. Do our childhood memories shape who we are, and if so, how important is it to clearly remember our past? Is it OK to let memories fool us into believing we are something we are not? Sometimes the questions are more important than the answers. SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

Concert Calendar Opera KOMISCHE OPER 1, 3 Mar: A Midsummer Night’s Dream (Piazzolla) 9, 20, 23 Mar: West Side Story (Bernstein) 24 Mar: My Fair Lady (Loewe)

DEUTSCHE OPER 1, 3, 12, 22 Mar: La Sylphide (Lovenskjold) 7, 10, 18, 23 Mar: Eugen Onegin (Tchaikovsky) 8, 28, 31 Mar: Turandot (Puccini)

STAATSOPER 1, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16 Mar: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart)

Classical CHAMBER MUSIC HALL 3 Mar: Scholars of the Karajan Academy perform Bach, Mozart, and others. 20 Mar: Concerto Melante performs Marini and others.

PHILHARMONIE 1, 2 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Mehta) performs Varèse, Eötvös and Rimsky-Korsakov. 7-9 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Petrenko) performs Schoenberg and Tchaikovsky. 27-29 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Harding) performs Ives, Berg, and Mahler

KONZERTHAUS 8, 10 Mar: Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Fischer) performs Stravinsky. 25 Mar: The Akademie fûr Alte Musik Berlin (cond. Doyle) performs Bach.

Pop, Rock, Jazz TEMPODROM

Our roundup of the best shows happening this month.

Dance, Musicals, Cabaret, Variety STAATSBALLETT 1, 3, 12, 22 Mar: La Sylphide at Deutsche Oper 21, 29, 31 Mar: Onegin at Staatsoper

CHAMÄLEON VARIETE All month: Memories of Fools

FRIEDRICHSTADTPALAST All month: VIVID Grand Show

ADMIRALSPALAST 1-3 Mar: Max Raabe & Palast Orchester 9 Mar: Dr. Pop

WINTERGARTEN VARIETÉ All month: Let’s Twist Again Rockability Hits & Acrobatics

7 Mar: Night of the Musicals

Sports

MERCEDES-BENZARENA

MERCEDES-BENZ ARENA

11 Mar: Shawn Mendes live

31 Mar: Members of the Philharmonia Quartett perform Beethoven, Schubert and Mozart.

1 Mar: Ice Hockey Match Eisbären Berlin - Kölner Haie

BALLET & OPERA

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

Deutsche Oper

Berliner Dom

A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Komische Oper

One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. www.komische-oper-berlin. de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin’s historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Olga Neuwirth, one of the performers at the Märzmusik festival.

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and

soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10;

OLGA NEUWIRTH @ HARALD HOFFMANN

ENTERTAINMENT

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ENTERTAINMENT Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5 The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program.

Havanna

06.03. - 30.06.2019 www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

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ENTERTAINMENT www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Quasimodo

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber

program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin’s most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Neuköllner Oper

Exploring Spaces Between Worlds The influential literary scholar and cultural critic Edward Said felt himself between worlds all his life. He once described himself as “an uncomfortably anomalous student all through my early years: a Palestinian going to school in Egypt with an English first name, an American passport, and no certain identity at all.” This month, Berlin’s Barenboim-Said Akademie will host the Edward W. Said Days (14–16 March), a series of cultural events exploring Said’s ideas on plurality of vision. The late Said, who died of leukemia in 2003, was co-initiator of the music academy together with renowned conductor Daniel Barenboim. The event series includes lectures exploring Said’s rich legacy, free film screenings, a special exhibition of work from British-Nigerian photographer Akinbode Akinbiyi, and nightly concerts in the Pierre Boulez Saal’s elliptical, Frank Gehry-designed concert hall. Don’t miss the closing concert on Saturday, 16 March, featuring students of the Barenboim-Said Akademie performing iconic works from Bach, Bartók, Mozart’s Jupiter Symphony, and more pieces selected for their contribution to the varied musical landscape of the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. www.boulezsaal.de

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

PIERRE BOULEZ SAAL MARCH 2017 © VOLKER KREIDLER.

The Pierre-Boulez Saal.

Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße.Off map.

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»An icon of Berlin nightlife«

»A GIGANTIC Hit! Bravo!!!« broadway World

»Absolutely

perfect!«

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Das Berliner Ensemble. Unten: Die Schaubühne.

Vorhang auf! historischem Flair empfiehlt sich das Berliner Ensemble im Theater am Schiffbauerdamm (www.berliner-ensemble. de). Ursprünglich im Jahr 1954 nur als Spielstätte geplant, ist es bis heute die feste Heimat des Berliner Ensembles, das von Bertolt Brecht und seiner Frau Helene Weigel ins Leben gerufen wurde. Neben zeitgenössischen Stücken wird hier auch noch Theater im Brecht’schen Sinne gespielt – beispielsweise die berühmte „Dreigroschenoper“, die 2018 ihr 90. Aufführungsjubiläum feierte und immer noch gespielt wird.

Rund zehn Minuten vom „BE“ entfernt beeindruckt das renommierte Deutsche Theater (www.deutschestheater.de) nicht nur mit seiner klassizistischen Architektur, sondern vor allem dem Anspruch an Gegenwartsdramatik. Neben Sophokles und Johann Wolfgang von Goethe stehen so auch Elfriede Jelinek oder René Pollesch auf dem Spielplan. Das Deutsche Theater ist Autorentheater vom Feinsten und festigt alljährlich seinen guten Ruf mit dem hauseigenen Festival „Autorentheatertage“. Als konstruktiver Lern- und Streitraum versteht sich auch die Schaubühne im Berliner Westen (www.schaubuehne.de). Der ehemalige Kinobau verzichtet auf eine klassische Bestuhlung und arbeitet dafür mit multifunktionalen Räumen, die zusammen mit den Zuschauern oft Teil der Performance werden. Mit seinen DiskussionsPodien bietet das Haus einen Raum für Themen, die weit über das Schauspiel hinausgehen. Der “Hamlet” von Regisseur Thomas Ostermeier ist mittlerweile ein moderner Klassiker!

SYLVIA LUNDSCHIEN

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erlins Theater-Vielfalt beruht nicht zuletzt auch auf der einstigen Teilung der Stadt. Setzte der Westteil damals eher auf Freiräume und Selbstbestimmung, arbeiteten die Ostberliner Bühnen zwischen Avantgarde und politischem Bildungsauftrag. Heute ist die Berliner Bühnenlandschaft weitestgehend eins und viele Produktionen ernten international Xxxxxxxxxxxx Beachtung und Preise. Dabei glänzen die Berliner Bühnen immer wieder mit Themen, die lokalen wie globalen Zeitgeist miteinander verweben und das Publikum gedanklich herausfordern. Für einen klassischen Theaterabend mit

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Unsere Empfehlungen SCHAUBÜHNE 4. März: Shakespeare’s Last Play 14. März: Lenin, von Milo & Rau Ensemble 26. März: der gute Mensch von Sezuan, von Bertolt Brecht

BERLINER ENSEMBLE 7. März: Tod auf dem Nil 9.–11. März: Passagier 23 17. März: die Mausefalle

VAGANTEN BÜHNE

GRIPS THEATER

2. März: Mascha: Ein Liederabend in Himmelgrau 29. März: Drei mal Leben

1. März: Laura war hier 1. März: Ganz Nah

NEUKÖLLNER OPER 1.–28. März: Elfie

TEMPODROM 17. März: Barbara Schönberger

BÜHNEN Berliner Ensemble Eine der renommiertesten Bühnen Deutschlands. Neben Stücken von Gründer Bertolt Brecht stehen weitere Theaterklassiker und aktuelle gesellschaftliche Themen auf dem Spielplan. Zudem gibt es Führungen von Werner Riemann, der seit über 50 Jahren im Haus tätig ist und Brechts Frau, Helene Weigel, noch persönlich kannte.www.berliner-ensemble.de. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1. T: 030 28408155. S+U Friedrichstraße. U Oranienburger Tor. E3

Berliner Kriminal Theater Messer, Gift oder Schlinge - sie sind das häufigste Mittel, um einen Mord zu begehen. Krimi-Fans wird im Umspannwerk Ost in Friedrichshain der Atem stocken. Auch Stücke des Bestsellerautors Sebastian Fitzek werden hier aufgeführt. www.kriminaltheater.de. Palisadenstraße 48. T: 030 47997488. U Weberwiese. G3

GORKI THEATER 1. März: Tyskland 14. März: Get Deutsch or die tryin’ 16. März: Der Russe ist einer, der birken lebt 23. März: Berlin calling Havana

hier was zu Lachen.www.berliner-schnauzetheater.com. Karl-Marx-Allee 133. T: 030 42020434. U Weberwiese. G3

Deutsches Theater Wirft man einen Blick auf den Spielplan des Deutschen Theaters, fallen sofort Größen wie Brecht und Goethe ins Auge. Neben Klassikern findet hier auch zeitgenössisches Autorentheater den Weg auf die Bühne. Die Stücke werden auf drei Bühnen inszeniert: Im Großen Haus, im Kammerspiel sowie in der Blackbox im Foyer. www.deutschestheater.de. Schumannstraße 13A. T: 030 28441225. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Distel Seit 65 Jahren zeigt das in Deutschland legendäre Kabarett-Theater politische Satire. Die Bühne befindet sich im Vorderhaus des Admiralspalastes, das Publikum setzt sich aus allen Gesellschaftsschichten zusammen. www.distel-berlin.de. Friedrichstraße 101. T: 030 2044704. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Berliner Schnauze

Grips Theater

„Komm’se ran, jetzt fängt dit Theater an!“ So begrüßt Marga Bach ihr Publikum im Mundartund Comedy-Theater. Die Kabarettistin und Sängerin gründete das Theater „Berliner Schnauze“, damit der Berliner Dialekt nicht ausstirbt. Jeder, der den frechen Dialekt liebt, hat

Politische Themen im Kinder- und Jugendtheater? Das Grips Theater setzt diese gekonnt um. Seit vielen Jahren schon werden hier aus den Problemen, Themen und Bedürfnissen des jungen Publikums Geschichten entwickelt. Die Komödien werden oft musikalisch begleitet und sollen

The Berliner Ensemble offers a special service for international visitors: Several times a month, we present selected performances with surtitles in English. Would you like to take a look behind the scenes of the world famous Brecht-theatre? We offer guided tours in English at regular intervals.

IKO FREESE / DRAMA-BERLIN.DE

Drama und Liebe im Savoy

Liebe! Glamour! Drama! Nicht weniger verspricht Ball im Savoy (21. und 28. März). Diese schillernde Operette von 1932 aus der Feder von Paul Abraham mit dem Libretto von Alfred Grünwald und Fritz Löhner-Beda. Die Komische Oper inszeniert den mitreißenden Liebesreigen um ein frischverheiratetes Ehepaar auf Hochzeitsreise, das bis zum Happy End allerlei Verlockungen widerstehen muss. Ein Augenschmaus mit dem Sound der Dreißigerjahre. www.komische-oper-berlin.de

THEATRE WITH ENGLISH SURTITELS

RTITLES LE.DE/SU B M E S N E LINERWWW.BER

HIGHLIGHT

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Kindern und Jugendlichen Mut machen. www. grips-theater.de Altonaer Straße 22. T: 030 39747477. U Hansaplatz. C3

versehen. www.gorki.de. Am Festungsgraben 2. T: 030 20221115. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kleines Theater am Südwestkorso

In drei Holzhütten mit rustikalem Charme werden im Winter Märchenklassiker der Gebrüder Grimm und Hans Christian Andersen für die ganze Familie aufgeführt. Nach der Vorstellung kann man in der hauseignen Pizzeria essen und sich mit einem heißen Getränk aufwärmen. Im Sommer wird im Amphitheater unter freiem Himmel das Publikum zum Lachen gebracht. www.monbijou-theater.de. Monbijoustraße 3. T: 030 288866999. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Wer es gemütlich mag, sollte das Kleine Theater besuchen. Alle Stücke sind Erstaufführungen, darunter auch unterhaltsam-musikalische Hommagen. In unmittelbarer Nähe befinden sich Ateliers, Galerien sowie das Grab von Marlene Dietrich auf dem Friedhof in der Stubenrauchstraße. www.kleines-theater.de. Südwestkorso 64. T: 030 8212021. U Rüdesheimer Platz. S+U Bundesplatz. C5

Komödie am Kurfürstendamm Die Bühne in der City West ist für zahlreiche Film- und Fernsehschauspieler, aber auch Musiker und Entertainer zur zweiten Heimat geworden. Trotz des Umzuges in das Übergangsquartier im Schillertheater bleibt die Komödie am Kurfürstendamm eines der niveauvollsten Unterhaltungstheater Deutschlands.www. komoedie-berlin.de Bismarckstraße 110. T: 030 88591188. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Maxim Gorki Theater In diesem international ausgerichteten Haus sollen Menschen zusammenkommen - unabhängig von ihrer Herkunft, Religion und Identität. Ziel ist es, im Zusammentreffen soziale wie kulturelle Konflikte sowie politische und ökonomische Krisen zu reflektieren. Alle Inszenierungen sind ab der zweiten Vorstellung mit englischen Übertiteln

Monbijou-Theater

Neuköllner Oper Der Komponist und Kirchenmusiker Winfried Radeke gründete 1973 die Neuköllner Oper mit der Absicht, ernsthafte Unterhaltung mit gutem Humor zu verbinden. Von der Barockoper bis zum Musical, von der Operette hin zum experimentellen Musiktheater ist alles dabei. Mit 160 Uraufführungen in nur 36 Jahren ist es das produktivste Musiktheater Europas.www. neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Straße 131-133. T: 030 68890777. U Karl-Marx-Straße. U Rathaus Neukölln. Außerhalb der Karte.

Renaissance Theater Das Renaissance Theater ist das einzige vollständig erhaltene Art-Déco-Theater Europas und steht daher unter Denkmalschutz. Autoren wie Bertolt Brecht oder Arnolt Bronnen fielen hier durch ihre provokanten Stücke auf. Aber auch internationale Autoren feiern in diesem Theater

Ganz normaler Wahnsinn Autor und Kabarettist Horst Evers gehört zu den bekanntesten Beobachtern des ganz normalen Berliner Wahnsinns: Gerüche im Nahverkehr, Altern im Altbau oder Veganer – Evers erzählt vertraute Geschichten mit absurdem Twist. Sein neues Programm widmet sich den Lebensfragen: Woher kommen und wohin gehen wir? Ist das noch weit? Muss ich da mit? 17. und 18. März. www.wuehlmaeuse.de

die Uraufführungen ihrer Werke. www. renaissance-theater.de. Knesebeckstraße 100. T: 030 3159730. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Theater an der Parkaue Das Repertoire des Theaters richtet sich an Kinder, Jugendliche, Schulklassen, junge Erwachsene sowie Familien. Gezeigt werden nicht nur Märchen, bekannte Stücke oder Klassiker, sondern das Theater bietet auch Workshops, Theaterclubs oder eine jährlich stattfindende Winterakademie an. www.parkaue.de. Parkaue 29. T: 030 55775252. S+U Frankfurter Allee.

Volksbühne

HIGHLIGHT

AB 21. MÄRZ

Mitmach-Theater Slapstick, Pantomime, Commedia dell’arte – beim Improvisationstheater kommen viele Aspekte zusammen. Ohne fixe Inszenierung oder Dramaturgie werden kleine Stücke, Sketche und Dialoge auf die Bühne gebracht - und oft ist das Publikum dabei der Stichwortgeber. Das IMPRO 2019 Festival zeigt einige der besten internationalen Truppen und Künstler. Vom 21. bis 24. März. www.improfestival.de

Die Volksbühne vereint bildende Kunst, digitale Kultur, Kino, Musik, Performance, Tanz und Theater in einem Haus. Das durch den Zweiten Weltkrieg fast vollständig zerstörte Theater wurde zu Beginn der 1950er Jahre wieder aufgebaut. Einige Stücke gibt es mit englischen Übertiteln. www.volksbuehne.berlin. Linienstraße 227. T: 030 24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

KINOS Astor Film Lounge Ein Kino mit Klasse. Hier treffen moderne Stile und Art Déco aufeinander. Versinken Sie in bequemen Ledersesseln und lassen sich vom exzellenten Kinoprogramm und Service verwöhnen. www.berlin.astor-filmlounge.de. Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 8838551. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Yorck Kino Das Gründungskino der Yorck-Gruppe befindet sich in Kreuzberg und repräsentiert das, wofür alle Yorck-Häuser stehen: Kino der stilvollen Art. Gezeigt werden hier nicht nur Arthousefilme und US-Produktionen, sondern vormittags laufen

HORST EVERS: COURTESY OF DIE WÜHLMÄUSE. IMPROVISATIONSFESTIVAL: COURTESY OF THE IMPRO FESTIVAL.

Vaganten Bühne Mit über 65 Spielzeiten ist die Vaganten Bühne eines der ältesten Theater in Berlin. Der Begriff „Vaganten“ geht zurück auf Schauspieler im Mittelalter, die ihre selbstverfassten Stücke auf Marktplätzen aufführten. Eine Gruppe mit diesem Namen tat sich im Nachkriegsdeutschland um den Gründer Horst Behrend zusammen, denn sie besaßen damals keine eigene Spielstätte. www. vaganten.de. Kantstraße 12. T: 030 3131207. S+U Zoologischer Garten. U Kurfürstendamm. U Uhlandstraße. C4

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WOHIN AM ABEND

HIGHLIGHT

17. & 18. MÄRZ

Kita- und Schulprogramme. Viele Filme werden auch auf Englisch gezeigt. www.yorck.de. Yorckstraße 86. T: 030 78913240. U Mehringdamm. E4

Zoo Palast Im November 2013 wurde der restaurierte Zoo Palast wiedereröffnet und macht in sieben Sälen sowie Logen mit Bedienservice den neusten Kinofilm zu einem wunderbaren Erlebnis. Kein Wunder also, dass im Zoo Palast auch die Berlinale zuhause ist und internationale Stars wie Tom Hanks, Jodie Foster oder James Stewart bei Premierenfeiern über den roten Teppich flanieren. www.zoopalast-berlin.de. Hardenbergstraße 29A. T 0180 5222966. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

VERANSTALTUNGSORTE

28. - 31.03.2019 Theater am Potsdamer Platz

präsentiert

GETANZTE TRÄUME AUS SCHATTEN UND LICHT

Radialsystem Wer schon einmal über die Spree geschippert ist, kam dabei vielleicht auch am Radialsystem vorbei. Das im Jahre 1881 erbaute Pumpwerk liegt direkt am Flussufer. Durch seine großen Fenster wird die prunkvolle Backsteingotik mit Licht geflutet. Regelmäßig treten hier Tanz- und Gesangsensembles auf. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstraße 33. T: 030 28878850. S Berlin Ostbahnhof. G3

MEHR AL

1,5 MIOS.

Hebbel am Ufer

BESUCHE

In den drei Häusern HAU1, HAU2 und HAU3 präsentiert das Hebbel am Ufer Tanz, Theater und Performances. Sie verfügen über kein eigenes Ensemble, sondern stellen die Spielstätten für Festivals, Gastspiele und Koproduktionen zur Verfügung. Dabei sind bildende Kunst, Musik und theoretische Debatten feste Bestandteile des Programms. www.hebel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstraße 29. T: 030 25900427. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Heimathafen Neukölln Einfach, direkt und für jeden zugänglich – so das Selbstverständnis des Volkstheaters. Die Leitung bringt unter dem Motto „Wir sind Volkstheater“ neuinszenierte Stücke von Alt-Berlinern in Form von Poetry-Slams, Lesungen, Konzerten und vielem mehr auf die Bühne. Ein Crossover der Genres, Kulturen und Stile. www.heimathafenneukoelln.de. Karl-Marx-Straße 141. T: 030 56821333. U Karl-Marx-Straße. Außerhalb der Karte.

DAS ORIGINAL KEHRT ZURÜCK! 09. - 14.04.2019 Theater am Potsdamer Platz TICKETS unter: www.eventim.de www.wheretraveler.com 35

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SHOPPING

n the last decade, lots of emerging eyewear brands around the world have turned glasses into iconic fashion accessories. Many of these brands have made their way to Berlin, and we visited their stores to help you find the most stunning frames. South Korean YUN (Rosenthaler Str. 11, www.yun-berlin.com) is minimalist, quick, and affordable. All frames are designed in-house in Seoul, and the lenses are made with high-quality, extra-thin materials from Japan. What really sets this store apart from all the others is that the glasses are made for you within 20 minutes. In fact, the glasses glide down to you via a conveyor belt that takes up half of the store, which is always of fun to see. At YUN, a pair of complete, custom glasses costs either €99 or €149,

depending on your eyesight, and only a little more for more complicated lenses. Futuristic brand VIU (Alte Schönhauserstr. 47, www.shopviu.com) combines Swiss design and quality with… a 3D printer! Their 3D-printed frames are durable and light, minimal in design, and very elegant. VIU also has a line of more traditional, handcrafted glasses made of titanium, steel, or cotton acetate. If you are looking for something more local, check out MYKITA (RosaLuxemburg-Str. 6, www.mykita.com), the Above: The store’s interior at VIU. most popular made-in-Berlin eyewear Glasses by VIU, YUN, Mykita; brand. The designs are inventive, the This pic: a pair of YUN glasses frames are extremely light, the quality is high, and every piece is manufactured in RUNQI LIN & the factory in the back of the store by an SOLVEIG STEINHARDT international team .

XXXXXXXXX

Frames With An Attitude

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS

Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children’s world and expansive gourmet section, there’s truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you’re short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw

from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden. de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of “non-colors” such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if you’re cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s

OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY OF YUN (PHOTO BY DAHAHM CHOI), VIU (PHOTO BY STEFAN LUCKS), MYKITA; THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF MAMSELL.

Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin’s west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof

Sweet Spot

At Mamsell (Goltzstr. 48, www.mamsellberlin.de) everything revolves around the sweet side of life. You will find chocolates from around the globe, as well as truffles, layered nougat, macaroons, and alpine caramel. Mamsell offers sweet samples of quality treats from selected manufacturers, including their own chocolate label Zarte Wilde. Sweets can also be enjoyed directly in the cozy, living-room-style café, famous for its Kalter Hund cake. An absolute highlight is their thick drinking chocolate – pure, melted chocolate with spices or fresh ginger upon request. In summer, the space goes from cozy to airy and fresh, with artisanal ice cream, iced coffee, and specials like strawberry basil cake. Beautiful items for sale are displayed in the small back room, including bright mixing bowls, pretty étagères for cupcakes, glass butter dishes, and other kitchen accessories. Café and shop in one, this is the perfect stop for a special gift or a dash of self-indulgence! Goltzstr. 48. T: 030 92122900. www.mamsellberlin.de

One of the biggest department stores in www.wheretraveler.com 37

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4 7

BERLIN CASUAL Say goodbye to the dark winter with a pinch of urban style.

RUNQI LIN 1. Attilio Giusti, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstraße 21-24. 2. CLOSED, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38–5. 3. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Pl. 12. 4. Marc O’Polo, Kurfürstendamm 220. 5. Attilio Giusti, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstraße 21-24. 6. Liebeskind, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Pl. 12. 7. Attilio Giusti, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstraße 21-24. 8. Marciano, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Pl. 12. 38 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2019

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SHOPPING heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder’s paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545.U Adenauerplatz. B4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce

& Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world’s top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Design pottery from Biscuit China (Oderbergerstr. 3; www.biscuitchina.com)

Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement www.wheretraveler.com 39

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THE PERFECT

- BERLIN WEEKEND -

Berliners definitely know how to make the most out of every weekend. Follow our guide to join them with two full days of food, fun, entertainment, and culture.

SATURDAY SUNDAY -----------------------------------------------12:30pm: Head on foot to Museum Island, enjoying the walk through Monbijoupark and along the Spree River. Once there, check out the Ancient Egyptian collection at the Neues Museum, including the iconic bust of Nefertiti, or admire classical sculptures at the Bode Museum.

11am: Indulge in a long brunch at Russian-Jewish restaurant Pasternak (Knaackstr. 22–24, www. restaurant-pasternak.de), where the loaded buffet includes things like blini pancakes filled with creamy cheese, devilled eggs with caviar, and smoked fish. --------------------------------------1:30pm: It’s a pleasant walk from there to the popular flea markets at Arkonaplatz and Mauerpark, which are great for antiques, retro knick-knacks, handcrafts, and people watching.

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2:30pm: After a quick bite at Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, www.monsieurvuong.de), one of the most popular Vietnamese restaurants in the city, do a little shopping around one of the city’s best boutique districts, browsing around Mulackstraße, Alte Schönhauser Straße, and Weinmeisterstraße.

3pm: From Mauerpark, head down the road to the Berlin Wall Memorial, where you can explore a moving monument to the Wall’s victims (Bernauer Str. 111, www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de).

----------------------------------------5pm: Ride the elevator to the top of the famed TV Tower at Alexanderplatz and for a drink at sunset.

-----------------------------------4pm: Take the S-Bahn to Tiergarten for coffee and cake at lovely Café am Neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee.de), then take a scenic stroll through the park.

----------------------------------------8pm: After freshening up, head out to super-chic Tausend (Schiffbauerdamm 11, www. tausendberlin.com). Restaurant, bar, and club in one, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy great Asian-fusion cuisine and cocktails and then dance into the night.

-------------------------------------7:30pm: At the edge of Tiergarten is the 25hours Hotel – head up to the penthouse for a fresh, Israeli-Mediterranean dinner at NENI, inclusive of gorgeous views over the city.

©ISTOCK; DISTRIKT COFFEE COURTESY OF DISTRIKT COFFEE; NENI COURTESY OF 25HOURS HOTELS

10am: Grab a table at Distrikt Coffee in Mitte (Bergstr. 68), where buttermilk pancakes, poached eggs, and great coffee will get the day off to the right start.

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SIZING GUIDE SHOES UK Dress by Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50. Bag by MCM, Rosenthaler Str. 38.

CLOTHES Euro

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rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

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Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop’s selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

HOME DÉCOR

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and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Läderach

The Bauhaus school of the 1920s focused on functional and iconic design, redefining artistic creativity and manufacturing. Here you can discover a range of Bauhaus objects and products by the designers of the time. Located in the temporary bauhaus-archiv in Charlottenburg. www.bauhausshop.de. Knesebeckstr. 1–2. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Exquisite Swiss chocolates from a family-run company with the highest standards for quality and craftsmanship. Shop for irresistible pralines, truffles, figurines, nut-filled chocolate bark sold by weight, and much more in Berlin’s two Läderach boutiques: in the west-end just across from the monumental KaDeWe, and on Mitte’s Friedrichstraße. Tauentzienstr. 4. T:030.20837679. Friedrichstr. 81. T: 030.80492457. www.laederach.com.

Home on Earth

Rausch Schokoladenhaus

bauhaus-shop

Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats

This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate. As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 www.wheretraveler.com 41

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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

GOETHESTR.

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE

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An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt

The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

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Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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This perfume boutique has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try contemporary scents such as OUD Weiss or classics such as Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

Since 1845, Yves Delorme has been producing exclusive bedlinen sets and elegant fabrics for the home. Visit their Ku’damm boutique and find sheets made with the best Egyptian cotton, lingerie from Paris, stylish accessories for the home, and much more. Check out the tempting designs and the irresistible details of this luxury brand, which is also a member of the Comité Colbert. Bienvenue chez.. Yves Delorme.

Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 92031876 www.boots-and-shoes.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

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U Uhlandstraße.

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DINING

Lucky Leek

eganuary might be over, but in Berlin, meat-free fare is always on the menu. And best of all, creative meat substitutes mean nobody has to miss out on traditional German cuisine. Check out our favorite German meat dishes – minus the meat. Allegedly brought to Berlin by Turkish immigrant Kadir Nurman, the döner kebab has since become a staple of the average Berliner’s diet. Consisting almost entirely of rotisserie-cooked meat, the döner is usually a no-go for veggies and vegans in search of a late-night snack. At no-frills café Vöner (Boxhagener Str. 56), however, you can enjoy a traditional döner – all trimmings included – with the meat swapped out for a spit-roasted blend of wheat protein, vegetables, and herbs. You can’t really say you’ve been to Berlin

if you haven’t tried the currywurst, which consists of sausage seasoned with curry-ketchup sauce. This enduringly popular recipe was created in 1949 by a woman named Herta Heuwer, who got hold of ketchup and curry sauce from British soldiers. Curry 61 (Oranienburger Str. 6, www.curry61.de) is often cited as the spot serving up the best in the city, (you’ll see the queue before the building) and offers a vegan-friendly version to travellers and locals alike. Another popular dish in Germany is the schnitzel, which actually originated in Austria. This delicious recipe is traditionally made by pan-frying meat before coating it in breadcrumbs. Yoyo Foodworld (Gärtnerstr. 27, www.yoyofoodworld-berlin. de) – which claims to be the oldest vegan restaurant in Berlin – offers a plant-based

version alongside other tasty options on its all-vegan menu. Vietnamese and Thai food are other popular imports to Berlin’s food scene, and Chay Viet (Brunnenstr. 164) is a particular favorite of the city’s vegetarians and vegans; “chay” translates to “vegetarian” in Vietnamese. Here you’ll find many tasty soups, noodle dishes and dumplings, all free of meat or animal products. If you’re looking for something a little more upscale, you can’t go far wrong with Michelin-starred Lucky Leek (Kollwitzstr.54, www.luckyleek.com), which serves up a fusion of Berlin’s favourite ingredients, from potatoes to wasabi. Expect creative gourmet dishes like potato leek tartelette with artichoke purée; and you can even grab a vegan cheese board to finish. SARAH WILSON

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Meat Staples Made Vegan

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Berlin's concierge association, Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin’s Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 15.00 CET 19.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 19.00 - 23.00 CET

The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030/ 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

köpenicker str. 16 | 17 kreuzberg

Skykitchen

OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY OF LUCKY LEEK.

Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

www.spindlerklatt.berlin

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

ASIAN Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D.www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim

sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

FRENCH Restaurant 1687

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone’s throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Spindler & Klatt

Duke Restaurant

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna’s famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

In an ideal world, this is the kind of place everyone should have in their neighborhood: One that will welcome you with a smile, seat you someplace cozy, and feed you something made with love. Paulinski Palme, tucked away in the heart of Neukölln’s quaint, village-like Rixdorf neigborhood, is just such a place. Open for afternoon snacks, drinks, and dinners during the week and offering brunch on the weekends, Paulinski Palme is becoming a favorite with in-the-know Berliners. The evening menu includes delicious seasonal salads and soups made from organic produce as well as heartier mains such as homemade pumpkin gnocchi. The blood sausage served with mashed potatoes and roasted apple is perfect winter comfort food, with the sausage sourced from the famed and award-winning Blutwurstmanufaktur butcher just around the corner. Bonus: a surprisingly great wine list. Weekends draw the brunch crowds with well-made breakfast classics like pancakes, granola bowls, a great pastrami sandwich, and perfectly poached eggs on sourdough toast, Florentine or Benedictstyle. Tip: Stop by on the first Wednesday evening of every month for a soulful blues session. Richardstr. 76. T: 030.98370812. www.paulinskipalme.de

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

COURTESY OF PAULINSKI PALME

Love Your Local

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

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www.1687.berlin

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

The Gallery German. Chef Lena König from TV show “The Taste” combines traditional German cuisine with the culinary diversity of Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg, specializing in German tapas made from regional ingredients. Located at Mercedes Platz, Berlin’s new “party mile” built around the existing Mercedes-Benz Arena, it’s the perfect bite before your show. Daily L&D. www.mercedes-platz.de. Mühlenstr. 13-19. T: 030 29772060. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Breakfast from 8 a.m. Lunch from 12 p.m. Dinner from 5 p.m.

Grill Royal

SPRE

German/French. A beloved destination of

Str. des 17. Juni

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Pariser Platz

Dorotheenstraße Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin

German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Schadowstr.

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

Wilhelmstraße

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

open Mo to Fr from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Sa from 5:00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m. / Sunday closed

Servus Bavaria! Delicious german food and drinks at Maximilians.

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s. Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€.Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

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TASTES OF ASIA

Tim Raue loves the cuisines of the Far East (previous page), and so do we. Here are the Where team’s tips for some of the best Asian eats around town.

3. THAI Kinnaree Thai (Südstern 10, www. kinnaree-thai.de) Masterful and wonderfully aromatic Thai cooking. The hotpots and papaya salad are highly recommended. Ask for it authentically spicy – if you dare. Preußenpark in Wilmersdorf, aka. “the Thai park” Every weekend, scores of Thai women cook and sell fresh, authentic delicacies right on the lawn, turning the park into a lively street food picnic.

Yami Yami (Grunewaldstr. 60, www.yami-yami.de) The rich, spicy cuisine of the Hunan region is the specialty here. Make sure to ask for the authentic Chinese menu, with dishes like saucy eggplant or kou rou, braised pork belly with preserved mustard greens.

Above: Korean food at Gogogi. Insets below: Thai papaya salad and Chinese stir-fried beef. Below right: Vietnamese street food restaurant District Mot.

2. KOREAN & JAPANESE Gogogi (Weinbergsweg 24, www.gogogi.de) A hip interior, great tabletop Korean barbecues, and a seriously tasty bowl of sizzling bibimbap are just a few of the assets of this central Mitte restaurant. Sasaya (Lychener Str. 50, www. sasaya-berlin.de) This small and perpetually busy Prenzlauer Berg restaurant is where you’ll find some of the best sushi in the city.

Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, www. monsieurvuong.de) Open since the late 1990s and pretty much steadily packed since then, Monsieur Vuong was one of the original restaurants to make Vietnamese food trendy in Berlin. The fast, fresh, and affordable daily specials are always tasty, as are the pho beef noodle soup and fruity shakes.

GOGOGI © ETT LA BENN; DISTRICT MOT: COURTESY OF DISTRICT MOT. PHOTOS 1 AND 3: © ISTOCK PHOTO.

1. CHINESE Da Jia Le (Goebenstr. 23, www. dajiale-berlin.de) Friendly and authentic, this restaurant is where every Chinese-food fan should go. Try the seaweed salad, fiery Sichuan beef stew, or Peking-style fried pork with pancakes.

4. VIETNAMESE District Mot (Rosenthaler Str. 62, www.districtmot.com) Styled like a lively street market, this colorful, crowded eatery’s broad menu includes a wide range of finger food designed for sharing, from fresh rice paper rolls to chicken feet.

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German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school

Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza

hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

OTHER Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant,

with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Kantine Deluxe International. Take a break from sightseeing and fill up with a satisfying meal. Right in the heart of the city, Kantine Deluxe offers a fresh, affordable, and vegetarian-friendly menu of salads, burgers, pasta dishes, and Berlin specialties, with something to

please everyone. €–€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.kantine-deluxe.de. Spandauer Str. 2. T: 030.34392626. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Also: Ella-Trebe-Str. 3. T: 030.25099441. S Nordbahnhof. D2

Kantini International. Much more than just a food court, this dining destination in the west-end Bikini Berlin concept mall is a gathering place hosting 13 international street food makers, from Mexican tacos to Korean bibimbap to Hawaiian poke bowls. Fresh, healthy cuisine and stylish design, with views onto the neighboring zoo. €–€€. Mon–Sat B, L, D. www.bikiniberlin.de/en/kantini. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rio GrandeAme International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. May-Ayim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. Schlesisches Tor.

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Z Modern Greek There’s nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece’s traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

Modern Hellenic dishes Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836. U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

©ISTOCK

Rotisserie Weingrün

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This photo and inset, right: Stone Brewing. Inset, below: Hops & Barley.

reweries in Berlin run the gamut from wee outfits with tiny brewing kits to a giant industrial plant. By our count there are now 34 breweries in Berlin, and the number is growing. The one thing that virtually all of them have in common: they’re visitor-friendly. The largest organizes frequent guided tours, while a few of the smallest are happy to chat and sell beer to anyone who finds their doors. Here are some highlights for travelers looking for a range of Berlin beer experiences. Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss: The city’s best-selling beers come from its oldest active brewery, a large plant in Lichtenberg, northeast of the city center. Here you get the chance to watch an industrial bottling line in action. It’s possible to book English tours with a pub lunch afterward. There is a gift shop, too. To book, email h.rohde@radebergergruppe.de. (www.berliner-kindl.de) Heidenpeters: On the other end of the

scale, one of Berlin’s most popular brewery taps is tucked into the corner of Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg—so there are plenty of food options to go with your beer. In a small brewery below the food hall, they produce a spectrum of ales from light and hoppy to dark and ponderous, often for just a few euros a glass. (www. heidenpeters.de) Hops & Barley: Many of the city’s brewers will tell you that this brewery in Friedrichshain makes some of the city’s best beer – led by a bright and bitter Pilsner and rotating seasonals often inspired by Czechia. The small, charming pub also bakes its own bread to go with local sausages. (www.hopsandbarley.eu) Lemke: After 20 years this is one of Berlin’s oldest microbreweries. Its reliable range runs from a tart, authentic Berliner

Weisse to a rich imperial stout via sturdy lagers and pale ales. These days there are three locations: the original pub by Hackescher Markt, the second one next to the Charlottenburg Palace, and the newest and largest by Alexanderplatz. All three have full menus doing hearty pub grub like schnitzel, pork knuckle, and Flammkuchen. (www.lemke. berlin) Stone: A slice of southern California in southern Berlin, this plant and restaurant was opened by the San Diego-based company in 2016. The space in Mariendorf is impressive, and the beer garden is pleasant. It has 75 taps—the most anywhere in Germany—with plenty of guest beers. Last year Stone also opened a more central tap room in Prenzlauer Berg. (www.stonebrewing.eu) JOE STANGE

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Drinking At The Source In Beer-lin

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

BEER

Fragrances

A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten

The Grand

Ankerklause

A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CLUBS Traffic Club

COURTESY OF STONE BREWING AND HOPS & BARLEY. WINE GLASS: © ISTOCK.

A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com. Alexanderstr. 7. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend

A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded CordoBar specializes elements with a soundtrack in Austrian and ranging from soul and funk to German wines R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. (www.cordobar.de) www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

A GLASS OF WINE?

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. Savignyplatz. C4

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

TRAFFIC CLUB A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com. Alexanderstr. 7. G4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 to Hauptbahnhof and and S45 to Südkreuz run every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy

a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn. de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more. FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines. MY TAXI Hail a ride using the My Taxi app, which also offers the option of making mobile payments. MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar. DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time. DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

USEFUL INFORMATION

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WB MAR ESSENTIALS.indd 54

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MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

BVG LICENCE NUMBER: BVG-0024.15.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 Â© Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

ESSENTIALS

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16/08/2018 09:30

PERFECT DAY Josepha Conrad

MUSICIAN AND PERFORMER Josepha Conrad has released four albums with her Berlin-based band Susie Asado (www. susieasado.com). State of Undress (popuprecords) is her most recent creation.

How does Berlin feed you as an artist? How is it different performing here? In many ways Berlin has made me make work. From the moment I got here, I started collaborating on projects that shaped me. I’ve been very lucky when touring that mostly I’ve encountered warm audiences. But it’s different in Berlin. I feel like I don’t have to explain myself and I don’t. What’s been your experience of the music scene here? I am part of a very supportive community here. Certain venues like Madame Claude, Schokoladen, and Internet Explorer are homes for my community. There have been other homes as well that have lost their leases or disappeared like Hotelbar and Antje Øklesund. I believe places of exchange are absolutely necessary for communities to form, stay together, and grow. I’m in constant admiration of people starting new venues and keeping places of programming music, theater, art, and film going. Which part of the city do you call home, and

what are your favorite things about it? I live right on the border between Kreuzberg, Neukölln, and Alt Treptow on the former Wall strip. I love the canals and the parks around here and feel lucky to be near so much green space. Last night I saw a fox by the water, and we looked at each other for a little while. The M29 Bus is pretty awesome. I like sitting on the second level in the front and feel dizzy as the bus gets scraped by tree branches and maneuvers corners. My favorite spot in the neighborhood is the soccer field on Pflügerstrasse. When friends visit, where do you take them? I take friends and family on walks: Tempelhofer Feld, Park am Gleisdreieck,

Peacock Island, Maybachufer Market, or the flea markets. We walk all across the city, take the bus or U-Bahn for a while and then walk some more. I take them to see shows. I take them to eat Börek. What does your perfect Berlin day look like? It’s going to sound very unglamorous, but I love the post office, Berlin’s small grocery stores, and the soccer field on Pflügerstrasse. I love running into people on the street, chatting with strangers, suddenly following a friend on their run of errands and stumbling into another friend and then going to get some food and ending up at a show I knew nothing about when I left the house. I love drifting, and Berlin is a great place to do that.

JOSEPHA CONRAD: COURTESY OF JOSEPHA CONRAD, PHOTO BY ANJA CONRAD; ALBUM COVER: COURTESY OF JOSEPHA CONRAD; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

Clockwise from this image: Josepha Conrad; The Maybachufer market; Tempelhofer Feld; Börek, Peacock Island; State of Undress cover.

You grew up in Chicago and Frankfurt. What brought you to Berlin? I was sixteen when the Wall fell. I taped a newspaper clipping into my locker of punks sitting on the Wall in Kreuzberg. Growing up as a teenager in Chicago I had all kinds of fantasies about Berlin. I was obsessed with David Bowie, Wings of Desire, Bertolt Brecht, and this movie Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo. I always knew I wanted to visit Berlin. In 2000 I finally made it happen. I meant to spend the summer, but I had no real plan of returning, no address to move back to, so when the summer was over, I stayed on.

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