Where Magazine Berlin Nov 2018 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

Making History RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

NOVEMBER 2018

Exhibitions, sights, and stories to learn more about Berlin’s rich past.

PLUS GERMAN SPECIALTIES GIFT SHOPPING

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB NOV COVER.indd 1

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CONTENTS

11.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

10 88

7 Editor’s Note 8 Hot Dates

Highlights of the month, including Cirque du Soleil, Jazzfest, and the start of the Christmas season.

SHOPPING

The Mall of Berlin: shopping galore, plus a big dose of history.

SIGHTSEEING

XX new Illusions Museum Berlin's will leave you astounded.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Expressionism as an outlet of the turmoil experienced during XX the Weimar republic period.

DINING

Take a pure and simple bite out of "new Nordic cuisine."

20 Ask The Concierge

Berlin's concierges share their secrets.

ENTERTAINMENT

Become acquainted with German dramatist Bertolt Brecht.

58 My Berlin

Azama Bashir Dancing her way around Berlin.

ESSENTIALS

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

12 BERLIN CITY GUIDE

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PAGE 56

BY HILDA HOY

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

The delicous regional bounty of Germany's cuisine, beyond Bratwurst and schnitzel.

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It's never too early to make your list (and check it twice).

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16 From Aal to Zwiebelkuchen

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12 A Day Of Fate BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

ON THE COVER: NEUES MUSEUM, © ISTOCK.

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Exhibitions, sights, and stories to learn more about Berlin’s rich past.

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KYLIE MINOGUE: COURTESY OF PR; MAULTASCHEN: BULLAHUTH.DE; AZAMA BASHIR, © DENNIS WEINBOERNER, COURTESY OF FRIEDRICHSTADTPALAST; ZEHA SHOES, COURTESY OF ZEHA; BERLIN WALL: © ISTOCK; FRAGRANCES: THE RITZ-CARLTON BERLIN, PHOTOS BY NATALIA KEPESZ. WALL: © ISTOCK

Berlin

B Mu

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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2018

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Indoor Fun I love November. The harvest produce, the anticipation for the holiday season, and the colder temperatures keeping me indoors are always a happy time for me. This is when I start to listen to Bach in a slightly obsessive way, try out new recipes, and shop for things I had no idea I needed, like the 85th pair of stockings, or another set of oil pastels that I will never find the time to use. It is also when I most enjoy visiting exhibitions. My favorite one this month is Berlin in the 1918/19 Revolution (p. 12) at the Museum für Fotografie, a collection of photographs of a pre-war Berlin that no longer exists, but I certainly don't want to miss PERGAMON, the new installation by Yadegar Asisi opening on 17 November at the Pergamon Museum. The German-Persian artist, who is well known in Berlin for his life-sized representation of the Berlin Wall on a gray fall day of 1983, will be presenting a new, majestic panorama of the ancient city of Pergamon as it must have looked under the rule of Emperor Hadrian (AD 117-138).

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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HOT

DATES November is a great month to be in Berlin. From Cirque du Soleil to jazz festivals and Christmas markets, this month is filled with fabulous events.

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CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN FROM THURSDAY

At this time of year, the Berlin's Botanical Gardens turn into a glittering and colorful winter fairyland. For almost eight weeks, visitors can go for an enchanting two-kilometer-long circular stroll, discovering thousands of lights, illuminations, and Christmas-themed 3D figures. Cozy fireplaces with culinary treats and an ice-skating rink also await. www.christmas-garden.de/en

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

CHRISTMAS MARKETS OPEN FROM MONDAY

The festive season officially opens with the first glitter of Berlin’s Christmas markets. From the beautiful surroundings at Gendarmenmarkt to the winter sports at Potsdamer Platz or the enchanted beauty of the Charlottenburg Palace, there’s ample opportunity to soak up the merry spirit and warm up with a glass of mulled wine or two. Check out the Christmas market list on www.visitberlin.de

FAIRYTALE DAYS FROM THURSDAY

From Tom Thumb who defeats the mighty giants to the fate of Sleeping Beauty, this year’s Märchentage (Fairytale Days) will enchant kids and adults alike with stories of power and how it can be limited. Running until 25 November, the festival features hundreds of readings and performances across the city. Check out their website for events in English. www.märchenland.de

KYLIE MINOGUE MONDAY

The Australian pop princess is travelling Europe this month on her Kylie Presents Golden tour. Golden is said to be her most personal album yet, debuting at the top of the UK album charts this spring. Kylie has come a long way since her innocent The Locomotion days, and at Tempodrom she’ll be performing new hits such as Dancing, alongside her legendary classics. www.tempodrom.de

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CIRQUE DU SOLEIL FROM WEDNESDAY

The world-famous circus troupe, characterized by stunning aesthetics and artistic perfection, will be performing their latest show, Toruk – The First Flight, for seven consecutive days at the MercedesBenz Arena. Inspired by James Cameron’s Avatar, the show tells the story of an upcoming catastrophe that threatens to destroy the holy tree of life, and the only way to save it is to find a pure soul who can ride the flying predator Toruk. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

SHORT FILM FESTIVAL FROM THURSDAY

Time for popcorn! For seven days, the Interfilm festival will be attracting cinephiles across around the globe with around 500 films from various categories. And, breaking news: Interfilm has just been declared an Academy Award Qualifying Festival, which means winning films in the categories “Best Fiction” and “Best Animation” will be considered to compete for an Oscar. www.interfilm.de

JAZZFEST FROM THURSDAY

Let’s get jazzy! This worldrenowned festival celebrates the diversity of jazz music, bringing together 30 bands and musical projects from over 15 countries to the Haus der Berliner Festspiele and other established clubs. This year’s festival kicks off with a five-hour concert resounding over five stages, and closes four days later with American guitarist Mary Halvorson’s octet. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

AUGUST NOVEMBER

HOT DATES

singer-songwriter Neko Case plays her 1 Indie new, seventh solo album Hell-On at Bi Nuu. Catch a show at the lively Jazzfest, 'til Sunday 2 at Haus der Berliner Festspiele & elsewhere. The Russian National Philharmonic plays 3 Rachmaninoff & Tchaikovsky at Konzerthaus. Drums & horns take over Max-Schmeling4 Halle for the Berlin Tattoo military music fest. Discover the work of provocative S. Korean 5 artist Lee Bul at Martin Gropius Bau. Explore the complex history of Jersualem in 6 the Jewish Museum's ongoing exhibition. Be wowed by Toruk, the stunning new Cirque 7 du Soleil show at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Lykke Li is at ASTRA Kulturhaus to sing 8 Singer her 1st new album in 4 years, So Sad So Sexy. up your heels and dance a jig: the Irish 9 Kick Folk Festival is on at Passionskirche. performer Cro takes the stage at Max10 German Schmeling-Halle with his rap-pop hybrid. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 11 For Tiergarten's Straße der 17. Juni is a must. cutting-edge sounds at the Experimontag 12 Hear night at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar. alt-rockers Mudhoney have a new album 13 Seattle after 5 years: hear it live at Festsaal Kreuzberg. will be bagpipes aplenty at Tempodrom 14 There tonight with the Scottish Music Parade show. electronic music star known as 15 The Nightmares on Wax plays at Kesselhaus. American rapper Talib Kweli rocks 16 Legendary the stage at YAAM on his Silent Radio tour. beer fans: check out the range of 17 Craft unique brews at Neukölln's Muted Horn bar. in Johann Strauss's well-loved opera Die 18 Take Fledermaus at Deutsche Oper this evening. Minogue, pop princess from Down 19 Kylie Under, plays new & old hits at Tempodrom. to the Neues Museum to admire the bust 20 Go of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt. the Botanical Garden to admire lotus 21 Visit blooms in the newly reopened Victoriahaus. an afternoon Espresso Konzert at 22 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." Synästhesie Festival at Kesselhaus plays 23 The experimental music inspired by the 1960s. spectacular martial arts at Night of the 24 Admire Budo Legends at Mercedes-Benz Arena. successful indie rockers Interpol are at 25 Super Tempodrom with their 6th studio album. the halls! All the major Christmas 26 Deck markets open for the season this afternoon. Take in the Moving Shadows show at 27 Admiralspalast, a play between light & dark. the twinkling Christmas Garden light 28 Admire installation at the Dahlem Botanical Garden. the feast at the Street Food Thursday 29 Join event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. annual Christmas fave, the Harlem Gospel 30 An Night choir is back at Apostel Paulus Kirche.

See listings for addresses and more info.

CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN: © CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN; CIRQUE DU SOLEIL TORUK: © CIRQUE DU SOLEIL; MÄRCHENTAGE: COURTESY OF MÄRCHENTAGE; INTERFILM: COURTESY OF INTERFILM FESTIVAL; JAZZFEST: HERMIA CECCALDI DARRIFOURCQ, © MASSIMO MUNICCHI; KYLIE MINOGUE: COURTESY OF PR; CHRISTMAS MARKETS: © ISTOCK.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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AS TWILIGHT FALLS THE MAGIC BEGINS…

NEW TRAIL

BASED ON THE

ORIGINAL

• over 30 illuminations • with a fantastic final • incl. our lovely ice rink

„CHRISTMAS AT KEW“ IN LONDON!

15. Nov – 06. Jan BOTANICAL GARDEN BERLIN WWW.CHRISTMAS-GARDEN.DE

CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS – book your table now

Tickets are available at as well as at the box office at the Botanical Garden Berlin or at any established ticket agency. *(EUR 0.20 / call from a German landline / a maximum of EUR 0.60 / call from a German mobile line)

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9 NOV

I9I8 Kaiser Wilhelm abdicates. The war is over and the German Empire ends.

A DAY OF FATE

One hundred years ago, WWI came to an end. Since then, the month of November has become highly symbolic in German history. Solveig Steinhardt explains why.

A FATEFUL DAY GERMAN HISTORIANS SOMETIMES USE THE TERM SCHICKSALSTAG, OR DAY OF FATE, to refer to 9 November, a recurring date in German history. It was 9 November when the German Empire collapsed in 1918 amid socialist-inspired revolts, clearing the way for the armistice and the end of WWI; it was also 9 November when, five years later,

Hitler unsuccessfully attempted to overthrow the government with his Beer Hall Putsch in Munich. It was another 9 November, in 1938, when the Nazis destroyed and burned synagogues and Jewish property in what became known as Kristallnacht; and on the same day in 1989, the opening of the Berlin Wall border ended German separation and dealt a decisive blow to the fall of

Communism in Eastern Europe. A series of coincidences? Maybe, but not completely: Some say that Hitler chose the date of 9 November for his Beer Hall Putsch as he believed it would motivate Germans to â&#x20AC;&#x153;undoâ&#x20AC;? the effects of the Bolshevik-inspired uprisings that occurred on the same day in 1918. Although his coup failed, when he later rose to power, he proclaimed 9 November

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WHERE NOW | A CENTURY OF HISTORY

The art installation

11.11.18

by Bettina Witteween, on until 25 Nov at the Gedächtniskirche, commemorates WWI. www.bettina witteveen.com

Far left and above: two of Römer's depictions of the 1918 German revolution, on show at the Museum of Photography; Left: an exhibit at the Käthe Kollwitz Museum; Above right: a plaque on the wall of the Oranienburgerstraße synagogue commemorates the events of Kristallnacht. Bottom right: defendants in the Beer Putsch Trial, including Adolf Hitler and his coconspirator Erich Ludendorff. a national holiday to commemorate the Munich events. And in 1938, when planning a punitive pogrom against the Jews, he didn't at all mind using this symbolic day for the events that would later become known as Kristallnacht. Concerning the fall of the Berlin Wall... well, that probably was a coincidence, but in order to not overshadow the remembrance of the previous tragic events, the government decided to move reunification celebrations to 3 October, now a national holiday called the "Day of German Unity." All month, the city is filled with exhibitions and events to commemorate the armistice and its reverberations through history.

The revolution had already started, and hundreds of demonstrators were already rallying at the Reichstag. SPD deputy chairman Philipp Scheidemann rushed to a window at the Reichstag to proclaim the republic before his communist competitor Karl Liebknecht could do the same. As the press reported the next day, Liebknecht, who had just been released from prison, had publicly proclaimed a socialist republic, from a window of the Berliner Schloss, about two hours after Scheidemann. Two days later, on 11 November, Germany signed the armistice, thus ending fighting on land, sea, and air. The uprising lasted for a couple of months, until Liebknecht was murdered by the German militia the following January. Later that year, in August 1919, the Weimar constitution was adopted.

WAR AND PEACE IN BERLIN'S MUSEUMS In the first few weeks of the revolution, some of the most important press photographers of the time, including Otto and Georg Hackel and Willy Römer, spontaneously joined the crowds on the streets to document the trenches, rallies and demonstrations, the barricades, and the joy of the people at the end of the war. From 9 November, the Museum of Photography (p. 40) will be presenting Berlin in the 1918/19 Revolution, showcasing the most eloquent images of these last days of war, including everyday life in this time of unrest and the Berliners’ unprecedented desire for pleasure seeking, a prelude to the golden age of the Weimar Republic.

9 NOV

I938

Nazi paramilitary troops and civilians throuhout Germany carry out a pogrom against Jewish property in what later becomes known as Kristallnacht.

For a comprehensive overview of how Germany fought and lost World War I, visit the Deutsches Historisches Museum (p. 39) and its well-organized permanent exhibition, complete with documents, images, and maps. Another great source of information is the Military History Museum of Gatow (Am Flugplatz Gatow, www.mhm-gatow.de), which showcases the airplanes and weapons used in the war. And to commemorate the armistice, the Käthe Kollwitz Museum (Fasanenstr. 24, www.kaethe-kollwitz.de) will be presenting works from Kollwitz herself, who lost her son in the war, and the early works of Liebknecht's son, Robert Liebknecht (from 30 Nov).

HOW THE WAR ENDED In early November, 1918, when it was clear that Germany had lost WWI, a group of socialist-inspired German revolutionaries demanded the abdication of the emperor, Kaiser Wilhelm, warning him that a social revolution would otherwise be unavoidable. The Kaiser tried to hold on to his position for a few more days, but by 9 November the situation in Berlin had deteriorated to such an extent that the emperor finally agreed to step down. But it was too late:

9 NOV

I923

Hitler and Ludendorff unsuccessfully attempt a coup in Munich, the Beer Hall Putsch.

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HY PHOTOGRAP NOW| A| CENTURY WHERE WHERE NOW OF HISTORY

9 NOV

I989

GDR guards open the borders and people are able to cross freely from East to West. The Berlin Wall comes down.

BROKEN GLASS

WE TWO ARE ONE

9 November, 1938 marked an essential turning point in the history of the Holocaust. On that evening, Hitler and other members of the Nazi party were commemorating the Beer Hall Putsch when the Führer was informed of the death of Ernst vom Rath, the German diplomat shot by a Jewish teenager in Paris two days before. Hitler reacted to the event by unleashing a series of riots and demanding that the Jews "experience the rage of the people." Throughout the night, Jewish shops and homes were smashed, 91 Jews were murdered by citizens and Stormtroopers, and more than 200 synagogues were set on fire across Germany. Because of the shards of broken glass that littered the streets the following morning, the event was named Kristallnacht. This large-scale pogrom paved the way for the Final Solution, signed at the Haus der Wannsee Konferenz in 1942 (p. 36). By the morning of November 10, most of Berlin's synagogues had been completely destroyed. The ones that were spared happened to find themselves in inner courtyards, where fire would have endangered the surrounding apartments, while the Oranienburgerstraße synagogue was saved by an art-loving Nazi police officer who stopped the Nazi mob with the excuse that the building was a protected landmark. The Levetzowstraße memorial in Moabit, where Berlin's largest synagogue once stood, offers a list of all the destroyed places of worship, while on 11 Nov the site of the burned-down synagogue of Köpenicker Straße will host the concert Commemoration, Memory, Hope as part of the Jewish Culture Days festival.

The Wall came down on 9 November, 1989, taking down with it the Iron Curtain that had divided the world for more than three decades. Berlin abounds with mementos of the time, and those wanting to take a dip into the city's divided past are really spoiled for choice. You can visit the Berlin Wall Memorial (p. 36) for a taste of what the Wall really looked like, check out the mural-covered stretch of Wall at the East Side Gallery (p. 36) for a more colorful view, or experience life by the border at the Asisi Panorama installation (p. 36). The DDR Museum (p. 39), the Tränenpalast, and the German History Museum (p. 40) all explore aspects of life in the former East, while the Stasi Museum (p. 36) and the Stasi Prison (p. 36) focus on the surveillance regime the population was subjected to.

Above: happy crowds after the Fall of the Berlin Wall in November 1989. This photo and below: The Berlin Wall Memorial in Bernauer Straße.

CREDITS: WILLY RÖMER, SPARTAKISTEN HINTER ZEITUNGSPAPIERROLLEN BEIM BARRIKADENKAMPF IN DER SCHÜTZENSTRASSE, 11.1.1919 © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK – PHOTOTHEK WILLY RÖMER / WILLY RÖMER. WILLY RÖMER, NACH DER BESCHIESSUNG DURCH ARTILLERIE STEHEN MARINEPOSTEN VOR DEM ZERSCHOSSENEN SCHLOSSEINGANG, 24.12.1918, © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK – PHOTOTHEK WILLY RÖMER / WILLY RÖMER. BUNDESARCHIV BILD 119-1486, HITLER-PUTSCH, MÜNCHEN MARIENPLATZ, 9 NOVEMBER 1923, CC BY-SA 3.0 DE. SYNAGOGUE ORANIENBURGERSTRASSE: © ISTOCK. NEXT PAGE: BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL: COURTESY OF BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL; 9 NOVEMBER 1989: ©ISTOCK.

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WHERE NOW | EATING GERMAN

From Aal to Zwiebelkuchen

Hilda Hoy wants you to explore the delicious regional bounty of Germany’s cuisine.

f you think you know German food, think again. Far beyond the well-known all-stars like bratwurst and currywurst, sauerkraut and schnitzel, German food offers a diverse array of regional cuisines with distinct local flavors. After all, this is a big country, a conglomeration of once-independent kingdoms that developed their own cultures and cuisines before being united in 1871 into the Deutsches Reich. Take a culinary road trip without leaving the city limits: All you’ll need is this guide and a healthy appetite.

NORTH GERMANY Thanks to the proximity of the Baltic and North Seas, seafood has long been a central part of northern Germans’ diets. Sample a wide variety of fishy specialties at Rogacki (Wilmersdorfer Str. 145–46, www.rogacki. de), a family-owned deli and fish smoker dating back to 1928. The bustling lunch counters in the back serve up a smorgasbord of specialties such as matjes herring, eel on toast, smoked salmon with potato pancakes, and fried plaice fillets with three different kinds of potato salad. Smoked fish and pickled herring remain the core business after all these years, and are must-tries for all curious gourmands.

BERLIN The capital’s most enduring dishes are hearty and rugged, originating from the kitchens of the working classes. Like Eisbein, a thick hunk of cured pork knuckle, its peculiar name (“ice leg”) stemming from the story that children fashioned skates from the gnawedon bones. Max & Moritz (Oranienstr. 162, www.maxundmoritzberlin.de), a charming and well-preserved Kreuzberg pub dating back to 1902, serves Eisbein the traditional Berlin way, with sauerkraut, potatoes, and split pea puree. Wilhelm Hoeck 1892 (Wilmersdorfer Str. 149, www.wilhelm-hoeck. de) is another wonderfully atmospheric old pub – more than 125 years old – featuring classic local dishes. Try the deliciously tender blood sausage, made by Neukölln’s famed Blutwurstmanufaktur butcher.

EAST PRUSSIA World wars and shifting borders mean that the easternmost reaches of the former Prussian empire mostly fall in Polish and Czech territory today, though the foods of those regions continue to be relished. Head to Marjellchen (Mommsenstr. 9, www. marjellchen-berlin.de) to discover a variety of those eastern dishes, like Königsberger Klopse, meatballs in a cream sauce with capers. Dishes like borscht beet soup are indicative

of how East Prussia’s cuisine was influenced by Poland and Russia. Another specialty from Königsberg – now Russian Kaliningrad – is Königsberger marzipan, traditionally shaped into elaborate curlicues and finished with flambéed tops. You’ll find it at Wald Königsberger Marzipan (Pestalozzistr. 54a, www.wald-koenigsberger-marzipan.com), still handmade, as always.

FRANCONIA Culinarily speaking, Franconia is known for two things: sausages and beer. This southern region, stemming from the historical Franconian duchy, has its own proud cultural identity and dialect, as well as the highest density of beer breweries anywhere in the world. Both beer and sausages feature front and center on the menu at Friedrichs Wirtschaft (Niederbarnimstr. 16, www. friedrichs-wirtschaft.de), a little piece of Franconia in the Friedrichshain district. Besides the sausages, which are sourced directly from a butcher in Bamberg, there are also meaty regional favorites like Schäuferla, pork shoulder braised with dark beer sauce. The perfect drink pairing: Franconian beer specialties such as unfiltered, cloudy Hallerndorf Kellerbier and Schlenkerla Rauchbier, brewed with toasted hops for a distinctive smoky flavor.

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Clockwise from far left, opposite page: Maultaschen from St. Mauli; a dining area at Max & Moritz; a dish of Saumagen; smoked fish; East Prussian-style Königsberger Klopse meatballs; the interior at St. Mauli.

BADENWÜRTTEMBERG

ST. MAULI: © BULLAHUTH.DE; MAX & MORITZ: COURTESY OF MAX & MORITZ; SAUMAGEN, SMOKED FISH, AND KLOPSE: ISTOCK; BEYOND BRATWURST: COURTESY OF URSULA HEINZELMANN.

Like Franconia, the Swabian region at the very bottom of Germany has its own distinct identity and dialect. Its hearty, stick-to-your-ribs cuisine, however, has spread far and wide, and is beloved well beyond its borders. Like Maultaschen, for example, large ravioli-type dumplings that are either crisped in a pan or simmered in broth – supreme comfort food. Try them at Friedrichshain’s St. Mauli (Gryphiusstr. 10, www.st-mauli.de), where every Maultasche is made by hand with either traditional meat filling or vegan-friendly spinach and tofu. They’ve also got Swabia’s other favorite dish, fresh, squiggly egg noodles called Spätzle, prepared with caramelized onions and lots of melted cheese.

RHINELANDPALATINATE Thanks to its undulating hills and mild climate, the area around the Rhine river has been used for wine cultivation since the Romans were there in 1 A.D. KurpfalzWeinstuben (Wilmersdorfer Str. 93, www. kurpfalz-weinstuben.de) is dedicated to the food and cuisine of the Palatinate (Pfalz), the second-biggest wine-producing region in Germany. Sip on some excellent Pfalz Rieslings or reds like Blauer Portugieser while feasting on local dishes such as the famed Saumagen, seasoned pork and potatoes stuffed into a sow’s stomach, poached, then sliced and pan fried. If the INTRIGUED TO LEARN MORE? German equivalent of haggis The book Beyond Bratwurst by is not to your taste, other Pfalz local author Ursula Heinzelmann classics include snails and explores the many historical, Flammkuchen, thin, pizza-like geographical, and sociopolitical flatbread baked with a smear of factors behind why Germans crème fraîche, onions, and bacon. eat what they eat. Guten Appetit! www.wheretraveler.com 17

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

A COLORFUL WATER BOTTLE Dopper – Mobilien Goltzstraße 13B

A TOUCH OF GOLD Chanel 188-189 Kurfürstendamm

MAKING A WARM STATEMENT MCM Rosenthaler Str. 38

BOHEMIAN SPIRIT Juwelier Leicht Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77

GIF T GUIDE It’s not too early to start thinking of Christmas!

A BLUE SUEDE BELT Liebeskind Neue Schönhauser Str. 8

RIDING THE SOUL TRAIN Marimekko www.marimekko.com

IT’S NEVER SOUNDED BETTER CX Sport wireless eaphones by Sennheiser Tauentzienstr. 17

THE SWEETEST CHOCOLATES Rausch Schokoladenhaus, Charlottenstraße 60

A LITTLE YOU TIME Robe Peignoir Plie by Yves Delorme Boutique Kurfürstendamm 51

A SIP MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER The Liquor Company, Manufactum Hardenbergstr. 4-5

KITCHEN THERAPY WMF Schloßstr. 115

LOVE FOR YOUR SKIN Aesop Alte Schönhauser Str. 48

ON TO NEW ADVENTURES Barbour Kurfürstendamm 26 A

TIMELESS AND STYLISH Zeha Prenzlauer Allee 213

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NEU IN DRESDEN · Juwelier an der Frauenkirche · An der Frauenkirche 3 · 01067 Dresden · Tel 0351–49 73 970 · dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de NEU IN DRESDEN · Juwelier an Hotel der Frauenkirche · An Frauenkirche 3Berlin · 01067 Dresden · Tel 0351–49 73 970 · dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de NEU IN DRESDEN · Juwelier an der Frauenkirche · An der Frauenkirche 3 Frauenkirche · 01067 · Tel 0351–49 73 970 · dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de Juwelier Unter dender Linden · 10117Dresden · Tel 030–22 90 212 berlin@juwelier-leicht.de NEU im IN DRESDEN Adlon · Juwelier· an der Frauenkirche · An der77 3 · 01067 Dresden · Tel 0351–49 73 970 ·· dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de Juwelier Hotel Adlon den Linden · 10117 · Tel ·030–22 90 212 ·· berlin@juwelier-leicht.de im Hotel Adlon den Linden 77 ·7710117 Berlin Tel 90 212 · berlin@juwelier-leicht.de Juwelier imJuwelier Hotel Adlon · Unter den·imUnter Linden 77· Unter · 10117 Berlin · TelBerlin 030–22 90030–22 212 berlin@juwelier-leicht.de

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Marc Schiffer, concierge at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org

When you have visitors, where do you take them? Gendarmenmarkt, with its beautiful architecture and variety of cafes and restaurants – and of course to Museum Island. Any Berlin insider tips? Kreuzberg and Neukölln, the old Berlin districts where Berlin is still Berlin. What do you do after work? Taste-test the city's culinary variety. What is the best way to relax in this urban jungle? A massage at Yi-Spa on Monbijouplatz. Tips for a German specialty? Berliner Knacker from Wurst und Schinken Haase, or from other trustworthy butchers.

Describe Berlin in three words. Motivational, green, messy. What differentiates Berlin from other major cities? We’re simply who we are – without a mask! A romantic place in Berlin? The Müggelsee tower with its view. A Berlin nightlife tip? Fragrances is the first cocktail bar to intertwine the art of cocktail mixing with the world of perfumes. Handpicked fragrances from well known brands, such as Giorgio Armani or Bulgari, are the inspiration for the unique drinks created by bar manager Arnd Heissen. What’s the most interesting way to discover Berlin? The Trabi Safari is always fun, it includes a good dose of "Ostalgia" (East Germany nostalgia). The perfect Berlin souvenir is... As Marlene Dietrich once sang, it’s best to "leave a suitcase in Berlin" (a metaphor for the happy memories that will bring you back here soon.)

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

From above right to bottom: The cocktail variety at Fragrances; cocktail inspired by perfume Nuit d'Issey by Issey Miyake; Gendarmenmarkt; Trabi Safari.

COCKTAILS: COURTESY OF FRAGRANCES, © THE RITZ-CARLTON BERLIN, PHOTOS BY NATALIA KEPESZ; GENDARMENMARKT: © ISTOCK; TRABI SAFARI: © ISTOCK.

What does your perfect day look like? I love the pancake variations at A Never Ever Ending Love Story on Bleibtreustraße. I particularly like this street as there are always new exhibitions, shops, or restaurants to discover. And a great way to end the day is on the rooftops, at restaurant Golvet (Potsdamer Str. 57).

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THE GUIDE | SHOPPING

The Mall Of Marvels

COURTESY OF MALL OF BERLIN

Annabelle Mallia gets a head start on Christmas shopping while learning about Berlin history at the Mall of Berlin. During the Golden Twenties, Potsdamer Platz was a bustling hotspot of shopping and entertainment on par with New York’s Times Square, with traffic flow so heavy the city had to install Europe’s first set of traffic lights. Taking the center stage was Wertheim, one of the world’s biggest and most luxurious department stores. Sadly, this all got razed down by WWII air raids, and remained desolate throughout the Cold War era. Only after reunification did this area get built back up to its former glory, with hundreds of cranes filling the Berlin skyline. On the same spot as the old Wertheim, the Mall of Berlin (p. 22) opened to much fanfare four years ago. In addition to its historical value, this

pleasant mall offers a well-organized range of stores and a fabulous food court, and is the perfect destination on a rainy day as it's located smack in the center of town, close to the most important tourist attractions. Check out the well-rounded mix of fashion, kids' stores, electronics, sporting goods, and gifts from international chains such as Zara and H&M, but also from luxury brands such as Armani Exchange and Karl Lagerfeld. You’ll also find German names, such as Steiff and Liebeskind Berlin, and several labels that opened their doors in Berlin for the first time, like Italian lingerie brand Intimissimi. The architectural highlight is the glass-domed piazza in the middle offering sky views while you shop.

This month, the mall will be hosting several events: if you are up for sweets, don't miss the Stollen Test on 16 Nov, with more than 20 bakeries presenting 60+ varieties of Stollen, the traditional German Christmas bread. On 23 Nov, Mall of Berlin will be celebrating Black Friday with the highest discounts of the year – up to 60% off! And every Tuesday at 6pm you can join the Mall of Berlin Running Club for a six-kilometer run through Tiergarten. For kids, there is also the Milka XXL slide starting on the second floor and racing 24 meters down to a pit of white and brown chocolate-like balls on the ground floor. All the ingredients you need for a great shopping experience! www.wheretraveler.com 21

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Galeria Kaufhof

Basler

One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children's world and expansive gourmet section, there's truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if you're cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou,

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines

For that November rain: rubber boots by AGL, www.agl.com

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 20 18

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SHOPPING

Jenna Rose Robbins curated a soundtrack for a visit to the city, consisting of songs that both celebrate and best encapsulate the spirit of Berlin at different times in its history. Berlin has a long-standing reputation for fostering musical creativity. The German capital has been heralded in songs spanning nearly every genre, and has been the inspiration behind some classics. BERLINER LUFT 1899 Considered the city’s “unofficial anthem,” Paul Lincke’s sprightly march is still often used as an encore by the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra. The song, whose title means “Berlin Air,” is best enjoyed while walking along the street named after the composer, which runs along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg. THERE'LL BE A HOT TIME IN THE TOWN OF BERLIN 1943 Although Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters recorded the original version, Frank Sinatra gets the credit for making it popular, enlisting his signature croon to bring even further emotion to a song already ripe with patriotism: “When the Yanks go marching in, I want to be there, boy, spread some joy, when they take old Berlin.“

“HEROES” 1977 Although written and sung by a Brit, David Bowie’s now-classic might be the "most Berlin" song ever recorded, even when compared to the remainder of the artist’s own “Berlin trilogy” albums. The lyrics describing the lovers kissing by an unnamed wall as gunshots ring out was written by Bowie as he peered out of a Hansa Studios (p. 34) window and spied his music producer enjoying a tryst by the famous landmark. “Heroes” was even featured on the soundtrack for We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, a cult film depicting the darker side of 1970s West Berlin. THE PASSENGER 1977 One of Iggy Pop’s most popular songs, inspired as he rode about town on the S-Bahn, is often interpreted as a metaphor for the punk lifestyle, which was just burgeoning in the divided city. The track was

released on 1977’s Lust For Life, which was also recorded at Hansa and features Bowie on back-up vocals. Try to get this earworm out of your head next time you’re transferring at Potsdamer Platz. HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN 1977 Since it seems every other artist was writing about Berlin this year, the Sex Pistols decided to follow suit, releasing this as a track on their one and only studio album. After getting booted off the island of Jersey, the punk rockers skedaddled to Berlin, which they found to be much more to their liking for a break from their London hometown. Frontman Johnny Rotten declared, “I loved Berlin. I loved the Wall and the insanity of the place.“ ONE 1992 Most any of the songs from U2’s Achtung Baby could have made the cut for this list, but it’s the album’s third track that most fully exemplifies both the city and the mood of the band as they recorded at Hansa. Just as Berliners were trying to find their way in a reunited country, U2’s members were experiencing their own discord, with drummer Larry Mullen, Jr. even stating he thought “this might be the end” for the band. Lyrics such as

“We're one, but we're not the same, we get to carry each other“ refer as much to the sentiments of the band members for each other as those of East and West Germans at the time. CITY OF NIGHT BERLIN 1989 Peter Schilling found minor success outside of his native Germany with Coming Home (Major Tom), his retelling of Bowie’s Space Oddity. Released just before the Wall came down, City of Night (Berlin) speaks of the plights of a still-divided city while encouraging Berliners to retain hope: “What's done is done, but you are still young, Berlin.” A GREAT DAY FOR FREEDOM 1994 Although Another Brick In the Wall was performed at Pink Floyd’s 1990 concert on the former noman’s-land between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, it’s the band’s 1994 song that has stronger ties to the city. Written shortly after the history-making Berlin show, A Great Day for Freedom tackles the disappointment many felt after the fall of the Wall. “I sort of wish and live in hope, but I tend to think that history moves at a much slower pace than we think it does,“ guitarist David Gilmour said. “I feel that real change takes a long, long time.” Despite his explanation, some fans continue to interpret the song as Gilmour’s feelings toward former band member Roger Waters.

©ISTOCK

ICH HAB’ NOCH EINEN KOFFER IN BERLIN 1954 Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich recorded numerous songs about the city, including Das

War in Schöneberg, an homage to the neighborhood in which she was born. But it’s her Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin ("I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin") that is perhaps not only her best-known Berlin song but also her greatest tribute. In her smoky-smooth voice, she makes comparisons to other cities and argues, rightfully so, how none match up to her hometown.

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As the leaves begin to change color, your outfit should too. 4 3

1. Liebeskind, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 2. Marc O'Polo, Kurfürstendamm 220. 3. Guess, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 4. Marciano, Peek & Cloppenburg, Tauentzienstr. 19. 5. Navyboot, Kurfürstendamm 40/41. 6. Guess, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 7. Marc O'Polo, Kurfürstendamm 220. 8. Guess, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 24 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 20 18

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together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

V I S I T T H E C O LO R F U L A L E X A S H O P P I N G C E N T E R A N D E X P LO R E THE BERLIN ST YLE

Cotélac

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

NEW FOOD COURT MORE THAN 170 SHOPS, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Marina Rinaldi Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.3239077. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4 Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

©ISTOCK

Patrick Hellmann

Berlin wheretraveler.com

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SHOPPING Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Strellson

Trüffelschwein

This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www.trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Talbot Runhof

UNIQLO

Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban

hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn

Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items The Ku'damm was West for the outdoor life. Berlin's most important www.wellensteyn.com. Europa shopping strip during Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. the Cold War. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Love Your Skin While the beauty industry tends toward fighting any signs of age, Australian skin care brand Aesop supports embracing and protecting your skin so it can grow with you. Founded in 1987, Aesop offers a range of superior products around the globe, using a mixture of botanical and laboratory-derived ingredients that are proven to be effective yet gentle to the skin, like bestsellers Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream and Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Eye Serum. Aesop’s founder Dennis Paphitis is a former hairdresser, therefore, it's only natural the brand should have an extensive line of hair care as well, such as the popular Rose Hair & Scalp Moisturizing Masque. In addition to its cult-favorite products in minimalist, unisex bottles, the company is also famous for its unique signature store designs. Berlin Mitte is home to Aesop’s first German store, inspired by the abstract, monochrome canvases of Gerhard Richter, with other equally impressive stores located in Charlottenburg and Kreuzberg. Trained staff will gladly advise you on which products best suit your needs. Alte Schönhauser Str. 48. T: 030 28096560; Fasanenstr. 74. T: 030 88728828; Forster Str. 47. T: 030 89405847. www.aesop.com

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219.

COURTESY OF AESOP.

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

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JEWELRY & WATCHES

New Era Flagship Store

Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Pikolinos Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com. Kurfürstendamm 216. Uhlandstraße. C4

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Aris Diamond

Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte

Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with

ADVERTORIAL

R D N G E A IN B R N M G E E P V O O N

Chocolate lovers: Get even more up close and personal with fine flavour cocoa. The new audiovisual exhibition “Plantagen Welt” at Rausch Schokoladenhaus, the world’s largest chocolate emporium located at Berlin’s bustling Gendarmenmarkt, uses innovative technology to explore the journey of Rausch's fine-flavour cocoa. Spectators can discover 60 exciting stories following the cocoa bean from cultivation and harvest all the way to production. By opting for either the English or German version, every visitor receives a headset equipped with a sensor that activates different audio stories of the exhibition. At their own pace, visitors can follow the cocoa beans that will become the exceptional Rausch chocolates generations have tasted and loved – from the tropical jungles of Costa Rica to the port of Hamburg. Afterwards, the Schokoladen Cafe on the second floor entices with 20 variations of hot chocolate while watching chocolatiers crafting delicious tartlets and desserts for the Circle Bar. For those eager to shop, the longest praline counter in the world awaits on the ground floor of the Schokoladenhaus, with more than 200 praline types to choose from. An unforgettable experience for all the senses, from the masters of the most exceptional chocolates since 1918.

The World Of Fine Flavour Cocoa

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Frau Tonis Parfum

Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening, with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey and salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus. Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160. S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

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a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3 The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

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Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate. As if the longest chocolate counter in the world

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weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Markthalle Neun Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Check the website for other foodie events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays and periodic cheese and sweets markets. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43. T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Mampe Spirituosen The famous Berlin-based liquor company has a new home in the Bergmannkiez. Browse the shelves of the shop for great bottles to bring home. shop.mampe.berlin. Am Tempelhofer Berg 6. T: 030. 208484470. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 030 28045275 www.boots-and-shoes.de S Hackescher Markt SHOP STOP

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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

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An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt www.wheretraveler.com 29

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Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West. Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home. Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 92031876 www.boots-and-shoes.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 31

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PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

ARMANI EXCHANGE

CHRIST

G-Star Raw

Liu Jo

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

LLOYD

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

ZARA

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

L’Occitane

Peek &

Street Shoes

ZERO

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

GUESS

Look 54

Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

BREE

Codello

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Sony Center CineStar/IMAX LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

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LEIPZIGER STRASSE

Potsdamer Platz

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WILHE

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Mohrenstr.

Dalí Museum

BUNDESRAT

Potsdamer Platz

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Blue Man Group Theater

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING © ISTOCK.

ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Questioning Reality Who can resist a good optical illusion? I certainly can't. I am deeply intrigued by the tricks my brain plays on me when I see cleverly arranged geometries and perspectives. If you are anything like me, then you should visit the Illusions Museum, the best place in town for those looking to deceive and disorient their minds. The museum, which opened last summer, showcases examples of all the classic illusions, from the simple geometric ones to the perspective-changing rooms, as well as math tricks and lesser-known games, with a circular tour of more than 60 hands-on optical feats and puzzles.

I visited the museum with my 5-year-old daughter, but I was just as blown away as she was when we entered the vortex tunnel, a bridge with moving walls that makes you feel like you're turning upside down. Walking in a straight line to other end of the bridge was a real challenge and it did make me a little nauseous – but I guess that's part of the fun, right? Another highlight is the perspective room, designed to make you look gigantic or tiny depending on where you are standing. My daughter was obviously delighted to have grown so quickly, and it was fun to play with our sizes and take pictures. These were definitely our favorite exhibits, but

there are many others, including the human kaleidoscope, where you can have fun creating patterns with your facial features instead of the usual beads, an amazing hologram display, and mathematical puzzles such as the Tower of Hanoi, which can keep you spellbound for hours. Maybe next weekend we’ll visit the Berlin Magic Museum – Magicum (Große Hamburger Str. 17, www.magicum-berlin.de) for more riddles and puzzles and a glimpse into magical practices from all over the world – from African totem masks and witchcraft to tarot cards and a historic Samurai sword. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 9, www.berlin. museumderillusionen.de

COURTESY OF ILLUSIONS MUSEUM

Annabelle Mallia takes a break from the real world at the Illusions Museum.

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MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary.

www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Let‘s go up!

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel

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SIGHTSEEING

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Zooborn After a 14-month-long pregnancy, the Tiergarten Zoo's rhino mom Maburi gave birth to a 20kg baby on 22 September, which also happened to be World Rhino Day – talk about good timing! Meet her new little one in the Berlin Zoo in Tiergarten (p. 37).

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee

Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard While West Berliners loved to express their built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the backdrop for military parades. The street Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to quickly became a source of national use the dividing structure as a canvas. To pride for East Germany, due to its make up for all the artless years, artists residential tower blocks inspired by from 21 countries were called upon Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: in 1990 to decorate one mile of the To see what the Berlin nationalistic in form but socialist Wall's eastern segment with their Wall really looked like, in content. The boulevard is an work, creating what is now known as visit the last remaining important architectural showcase. the East Side Gallery. untouched stretch at U Weberwiese, Strausberger Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Bernauer Straße. Platz. F3/G3 Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

East Side Gallery

Gleis 17 Between 1941 and 1945, 50,000 Berlin Jews were packed into the freight and cattle cars of 186 trains leaving from Track 17 of the Grunewald Station, destined for the concentration camps and ghettos of Auschwitz, Theresienstadt, Riga, and Lodz. The track is no longer in use, and a plaque commemorates the tragic events. The small square in front of the S-Bahn station also features sculptures and installations dedicated to the deportees. S Grunewald. Off Map

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

KPM Berlin Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as KPM Berlin for short, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned porcelain tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, take a break in the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystraße 1. T: 030 390090. S Tiergarten. C3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents. Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built by prisoners as a model concentration camp in 1936, Sachsenhausen’s first inmates were mainly political prisoners, whereas Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” were brought here a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host a number of exhibitions about extermination methods, daily life of prisoners and the medical experiments performed on them. Open 8:30am–6pm (until 4:30pm midOct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed on Mondays. € free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey

on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

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through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am, closes one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

The best events in town

TOURS & WALKS CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 0179.3585390.

Tempelhof Airport Building

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

©ISTOCK

MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

A Nation’s Inner Turmoil Berlin is about to experience an important centennial. One hundred years ago, Germany's surrender brought WWI to an end. The winter months that followed saw the capital in a volatile political and social climate, and clashes between militant factions of both the left and right were common. To cope, artists such as Käthe Kollwitz, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, and George Grosz sought solace in their art, and German Expressionism emerged as a distinct art style. Bold, intense, dark, moody, and distorted with exaggerated proportions, Expressionism was the outlet for the inner turmoil and emotion that the Weimar Republic experienced. The consequences of rapid industrialization and expansion in Berlin and a lack of adequate housing and support for veterans were reflected in the despair, fear, and pain of Expressionist works. One of the pioneers of German Expressionism was George Grosz. Born in 1893 as Georg Groß, Grosz came of age

during WWI and around the time of the Weimar Republic’s founding. Aside from de-Germanizing his name to protest German nationalism, he is best known for his

politically satirical works critiquing the postwar Republic and its shortcomings, including its inability to support veterans and tackle widespread alcoholism, depression, corruption, poverty, and sexism. Alarmed by the impending Nazi takeover, Grosz fled to New York to continue to create and teach art. George Grosz In Berlin, showing at the Bröhan-Museum (www.broehan-museum. de), is the first Grosz retrospective in the capital in the last 25 years. The exhibition consists of over 200 works, including rare photographs of Grosz’s flight to New York. The mixture of both well-known and more obscure works is sourced from museums around Berlin as well as from private collections. Like a mirror, Grosz’s distinct illustration style captured the instability of the Weimar Republic, the 1918/1919 revolution, and the 1920s. The exhibition explores the relationship between art and satire, the definition of political satire, as well as whether Grosz’s provocative art defines him as a political artist. Until 6 January.

GEORGE GROSZ: COURTESY OPF THE BRÖHAN MUSEUM.

Serene Tseng learns about German Expressionism’s melancholy but powerful past.

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Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 6 Jan: Flesh | Meat. Between life and death is meat and our relationship to It. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 6 Jan: Henriette von Carlowitz Reborn. The Restoration of a Painting by Anton Graff. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum

collection. To 4 Nov: Saving. History of a German Virtue. Exploring how the act of saving became linked to Germany. To 6 Jan: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 18 Nov: Paris Music Engraving Studio, Berlin. Photographs of a deserted studio, where Hans-Joachim Paris ran his family’s sheet music engraving studio. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. To 2 Jun: Beyond Compare: Art from Africa in the Bode-Museum. Sculptures from Africa and Europe displayed together In comparison and study Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb. The Allied Museum in museum. Am Kupfergraben. Zehlendorf traces the T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, history of the Allied S Hackescher Markt. E3 presence in Berlin.

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 6 Jan: George Grosz in Berlin. A retrospective on the works of one of the greatest political satirists of the Weimar Republic. To 27 Jan: Dieter Hacker - Political Photography (1974-1981). A solo exhibition Hacker's work on West Germany and the power of images. www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 3 Feb: Revealed By The Reverse. The Hidden History of a Painting by Adolph Menzel. Tracing the origins and journeys of the works in the museum’s permanent

Ephraim Palais

Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 4 Nov: Proudly Perverted: Perspectives on the WomenLesbianTrans*Inter*BDSM Community. A showcase of the culture of consent. To 6 Nov: Radical - Lesbian - Feminist. Following the history of the activist group, the Lesbisches Aktionszentrum, active from 1972-1982. To 8 Nov: Our Own FeminismS - A Queer-Feminist Futurelab. A lecture series exploring a future feminist utopia. To 31 Dec: Year of the Women*. Twelve months of programs, exhibitions, lectures, and transformation. To 5 Jan: 12 Moons. A yearlong program featuring films by feminist filmmakers and video artists. To 31 Jan: Spirits. The museum's café transforms into an interactive exhibition space for

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES sharing. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,

shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 30 Apr: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's garden Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz. de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints

and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 18 Nov: From Rembrandt's Workshop. Drawings from the Rembrandt School. Exploring the times when the works of the Dutch master were confused with those of his students. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. Free admission until 9 June. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Mendelssohn Exhibit A Jewish Enlightenment philosopher, a worldrenowned composer, and generations of bankers made the history of the influential Mendelssohn family, whose members were persecuted as Jews despite having converted to Christianity. Daily noon–6pm. € free. www.mendelssohn-gesellschaft.de. Jägerstr. 51. T: 030.81704726. U Französische Straße. E3

Visit the Märkisches Museum for an overview of the city's 750 years of history.

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 6 Jan: Gurlitt: Status Report. Examining the troubled history of works from Cornelius Gurlitt's collection. To 7 Jan: Restless Times. Archaeology in Germany. Connecting the earliest cultural interactions within Europe with Germany. To 13 Jan: Lee Bul: Crash. The historical and political evolution of South Korea told through the lens of art. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Her year-long residency explores states between documentary and fiction.

Menschen Museum

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 wholebody preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Barberini Potsdam Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism. With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free). Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6. T: 0331 236014499. Off Map

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. From 21 Nov: The Lives of Images - Works and Their Provenances in Museum Berggruen. The history of works with unclear or unknown pasts Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

The Art of Manliness

At the beginning of the 20th century, German sculpture began to redefine ideals of masculinity in art. On one hand, long influenced by militarism, sculptures depicted men as refined, strong, and defined by their physicality. On the other hand, influences from the pacifism and literature movements resulted in more sculptures of the gentle, sensitive young man. Sculptors sought to both depict the fragility of life in the face of war and the vulnerability young soldiers felt in WWI. The Sensitive Man in Modern Sculpture, showing at the Georg Kolbe Museum, explores the counter-image of heroic masculinity in a time of change. Until 3 February. Sensburger Allee 25, www.georg-kolbe-museum.de

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 18 Nov: Between Art & Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. From 9 Nov: Berlin in the 1918/19 Revolution. Photography, Film, Entertainment Culture. A photographic visual history of the immediate postwar period and its entertainment culture. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ.

COURTESY OF GEORG-KOLBE-MUSEUM.

Museum of Photography

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Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

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Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www.museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Gropius Bau Niederkirchnerstraße 7 Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a 10963 Berlin world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of Wed–Mon, 10:00 – 19:00 Tue closed artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To Sep 2019: The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration MGB18_LeeBul_Anz_whereBerlin_118x124mm__RZ.indd 1 Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

The Gropius Bau is supported by

Funded by

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Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

BERLIN WEEKEND Only have a weekend to visit this fabulous city? Make the most of it with our quick guide! DAY ONE AM - Start off with a free walking tour (www. originalberlintours.com), covering the city’s main attractions and history. For a nearby lunch, Berlin’s oldest quarter Nikolaiviertel has many traditional dining options or the restaurant atop the TV Tower on Alexanderplatz has great city views. PM - Spend the second half of the day discovering Berlin's artistic side at Museum Island, a UNESCO world heritage site and home to the mythical Nefertiti bust and Pergamon Altar. For a taste of Berlin's large Turkish community, head to Kreuzberg for dinner. Then end on a high note with a performance at the Berlin Philharmonic.

DAY TWO PM – Head west and walk along luxury shopping strip Ku'damm or through the royal gardens at the Charlottenburg Palace. When hunger strikes, Savignyplatz, former stomping ground of Berlin’s intellectual bohemians, has many restaurants from which to choose.

AM – Now head east and walk along the East Side Gallery, the largest remaining strip of the Berlin Wall turned into an open-air art gallery. For dinner, make your way to Kollwitzplatz in the hip Prenzlauer Berg district surrounded by lovely cafés and restaurants. Afterwards, dance the night away to techno beats at the legendary Berghain.

ON A LONG WEEKEND... Got a bit more time? Venture into Grunewald forest and visit green Berlin and its many lakes. A loop around Krumme Lanke is a pleasant one-hour walk, followed by something to eat and drink at Fischerhütte am Schlachtensee (Fischerhüttenstr. 136) restaurant overlooking the adjoining lake.

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 9 Nov: The Novembergruppe 1918-1935. Art from the radical artist collective during the revolutionary postwar years. From 30 Nov: Raphaela Vogel. 10 Years Videoart at Midnight. Exploring the female physique and male-centric technology in today's world. To 8 Apr: Julian Charrière. As We Used To Float. GASAG Art Prize 2018 recipient's multimedia installation on nuclear testing In the Pacific. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 2 Dec: Back To The Future. The 19th Century in the 21st Century. Exploring the earliest photography techniques in the new millennium. To 2 Dec: Nicholas Nixon. Life Work. Capturing the Intimate passing of time and the experiences of being human. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing,

illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 11 Nov: Impressions from the Thirty Years' War. Woodcuts from the Kupferstichkabinett showing the fates of those affected by the devastating war. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 1 Nov: Elephant in the Room. Sculptures of the Marx Collection and the Collection of the Nationalgalerie. The spatial relationship with sculpture. From 16 Nov: How to Talk with Birds, Trees, Fish, Shells, Snakes, Bulls and Lions. An international and interwoven project exploring nature, human influence, and the environment. To 3 Mar: PAINTER. MENTOR. MAGICIAN. Otto Mueller

Comparing Africa And Europe Both Africa and Europe are the source of great artistry. But how much, if anything, do these artistic legacies have in common? Beyond Compare: Art from Africa in the Bode Museum attempts to bridge this gap by placing pieces from the Ethnological Museum’s collection of African art together with European sculptures from the Bode Museum (p. 39). The experimental pairing inspires comparisons of parallels in displays of power, religion and spirituality, motherhood, and artistic and technological development. Africa and Europe both have long histories that developed independently and together, and the exhibition encourages visitors to consider the definition of art throughout time. Until 2 June.

UNVERGLEICHLICH: KUNST AUS AFRIKA IM BODE-MUSEUM, AUSSTELLUNGSANSICHT, © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / DAVID VON BECKER.

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and His Network in Wrocław. Spotlighting the influence Mueller had as a teacher at the Wrocław Academy. To 14 Apr: Agnieszka Polska: The Demon's Brain. A sound and video installation of 15th century Poland. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. The Haus will reopen on 1 December following an extensive remodeling and restoration. From 1 Dec: Karin Sander - A Retrospective. A specially designed installation to celebrate the re-opening of the Haus am Waldsee. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 18 Nov: Between Art and Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-inchief of Italian Elle and Vogue. Tue–Sun 10am– 6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton. com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 1 Apr: The Moment is Eternity - Works from the Olbricht Collection. Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, time, and society in the fleeting moment. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. From 27 Sep: The world on paper. www.db-palaispopulaire.de. Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Commercial Galleries C&K Galerie, until 24 Nov: Young Abstract Painting. Joachimstr. 17. www.cundkgalerie.de; Subjectobject – Art Involvement, until 24 Nov: Lovro Artukovic: Image Transport. Grunewaldstr. 79. www.subjectobject.de; Brennecke Fine Art, until 28 Nov: Kim Dreyer: a letter to earth. Mommsenstr. 45. www.galerie-brennecke.de; Galerie Gerken, until 28 Nov: Helga Gerken-Grieshaber. Linienstr. 217. www.galerie-gerken.de; Mutare, until 28 Nov: Felix Gephart, Tamim Sibai. Giesebrechtstrasse 12. www.galeriemutare.de; Galerie Kai Dikhas, until 30 Nov: Lita Cabellut: The Rossini Project. Prinzenstr. 84.2 (corner Oranienstr. / Stallschreiberstr.). www.kaidikhas.com

For Explorers! Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | www.sdtb.de |

/deutschestechnikmuseum

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DINING | THE GUIDE This image: The interior at Sæson. Below and right: Palsta Wine Bar.

The acclaimed cuisine of the Nordic region is making waves in Berlin, Hilda Hoy found. The culinary gifts of the Nordic region have been enjoying widespread acclaim in recent years, thanks no doubt to Copenhagen’s illustrious Noma, four-time winner of the top spot on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list. The highly influential contemporary culinary style that has emerged, dubbed the “new Nordic cuisine,” emphasizes purity and simplicity, with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients and traditional techniques such as smoking and fermenting. If a side trip to Copenhagen or Stockholm isn’t on the itinerary, don’t worry – there’s plenty of opportunity to sample Nordic cuisine right here in Berlin. Start at Neukölln’s newly opened Palsta Wine Bar (Oderstr. 52, www.facebook.com/ palstawinebar), where the Danish chef whips up delicious, inventive plates with a Nordic twist to pair with the list of natural wines. Palsta’s location next to the main entrance of the grandiose Tempelhofer Park makes this the perfect stop after a sunset stroll on the

former airport tarmac. Wine and bar snacks are served all afternoon before expanding into a full evening menu, with dishes like crispy Danish-style fish cakes with a herby cucumber salad or smoked mackerel with that Scandinavian staple, dark rye bread. For “seasonal and uncomplicated Nordic cuisine,” head to Schöneberg to find Sæson (Potsdamer Str. 67, www.guldsmedenhotels. com/berlin), the in-house restaurant of the recently opened Berlin location of Denmark’s Guldsmeden boutique hotels. The lunch menu revolves around smørrebrød, a kind of open-faced sandwich that is ubiquitous in Denmark. Sæson’s warm and cold smørrebrød are a delicious hodgepodge of primarily organic ingredients, such as cured herring with toasted buckwheat, or shaved fennel and apple with horseradish. In the evenings, the dinner menu encompasses satisfying mains such as crispy cod with cabbage and bygotto, a cheesy, barley-based variation on risotto. Also in Schöneberg is Munch’s Hus (Bülowstr.

66, www.munchshus.de), where the menu is not so much new Nordic, but rather classic Nordic. Germany’s first and only Norwegian restaurant, Munch’s Hus highlights hearty delicacies like roast elk served with chestnuts and lingonberries – perfect wintertime food. Seafood fans won’t want to pass up the abundance of fresh fish dishes, from salmon and cod to Arctic char and shrimp. Insider tip: Munch’s Hus also does the catering for the canteen at the Nordic Embassies (www. nordischebotschaften.org), open to the public every afternoon from 1–3pm. For a taste of Swedish coffee culture, plan a visit to Okay Café in Neukölln (Pflügerstr. 68, www.okay-cafe.com), serving breakfast, lunch, and snacks “with a Stockholm edge.” Irresistible kanelbulle buns are baked fresh every day of the week with a rotating cast of fillings, from blueberry to cardamom to marzipan, and on the weekends, Swedish plättar pancakes make for a delicious brunch.

SAESON: © MOLLY GRÖNBERG, COURTESY OF GULDSMEDEN HOTELS; PALSTA WINE BAR: © BECCA CRAWFORD.

North By Northeast

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D.www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Modern Hellenic dishes Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz

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Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star

Berlin

Vegetarian specialties at Cookies Cream (Behrenstr. 55)

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DINING

Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Lamazère Brasserie

Altes Zollhaus

French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Le Faubourg

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant,

Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Berliner Weisse is a pale ale brewed only in the capital and usually served with a shot of syrup.

lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef

Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style

Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com.

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

From avocado salads with crab meat to crispy chicken with curry, Umami serves hearty Indochinese dishes in a scenic setting of bamboo furniture and lanterns. Bergmannstr. 97 www.umami-restaurant.de COURTESY OF UMAMI. COOKIES CREAM, PHOTO BY RENE RIIS.

Kimchi Princess

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Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 15.00 CET 19.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 19.00 - 23.00 CET

German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030/ 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

Servus Bavaria! Enjoy delicious bavarian food and drinks.

Paris-Moskau French/German. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it's an upscale destination seamlessly incorporating French, German, and Russian culinary influences. €€€. MonFri L&D, Sat D only. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Traditional St. Martins Goose.

11th November

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. C5

Restaurantschiff Capt'n Schillow German. Climb aboard this quaint boat restaurant at the western edge of Tiergarten to enjoy classic German fish delicacies like cured herring, grilled pike perch fillets, and North Sea shrimp, plus a relaxing brunch menu on weekends. Book in advance to

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximiliansberlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon–Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Walid

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Schneeweiss

Zeit für Brot

take a chartered cruise through the surrounding waterways. €€. Daily L&D, breakfast Sat & Sun. Closed Mon–Tue Oct–Dec. www.capt-schillow.de. Str. des 17. Juni 113, next to Charlottenburger Tor. T: 030.31505015. S Tiergarten. C3

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

German. Contemporary, pared-down, and top-

quality renditions of classic German dishes, from schnitzel to asparagus soup to Könisberger Klopse meatballs. The compact menu changes seasonally to take advantage of the best produce available from the region. €€. Tue–Sat D. www.walid-speisemeisterei.de. Wichertstr. 55. T: 030.40045755. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food culture. Zeit für Brot—“Time for Bread”—is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €. Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780. U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Volt

Zillemarkt

German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy,

German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner

post-industrial interior remind diners that the space

ITALIAN Barist

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

Café Aroma Italian. A longstanding neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20. T: 030.6188098. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Mama Trattoria Italian. Healthful Italian food made with the best Italian ingredients and, whenever possible, with local produce. Many of the ingredients used, such as the beef and the pastas, are organic, and gluten-free options are available too. Order a pizza and salad, or just stop by for one of their delicious desserts. €/ €€. www.mama.eu. Pariser Platz 6a. T: 030.467260981. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

I Due Forni

It's one of the most multifaceted and fascinating foodstuffs, a cornerstone of food cultures around the globe: cheese. This month, the weekend-long Cheese Berlin festival (2–4 November) will shine the spotlight on the many delicious and pungent permutations of cheese, glorious cheese, with tastings, talks, hands-on workshops, and an expansive cheese market. Organized and hosted by Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun, a well-preserved 19th-century market hall that has become the center of foodie culture in recent years, the festival will draw dedicated cheese makers and mongers from across the world. The fun will kick off on Friday, 2 November with the Käsenacht, or "Cheese Night," for which chefs across the city have been enlisted to create cheese-focused menus. A packed events program all weekend will culminate in Sunday's bonanza cheese market, featuring an eye-opening and tastebud-pleasing spread of cheesy delicacies from across North America, Europe, and beyond. www.cheese-berlin.de

OTHER Z Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

CHEESE: © ISTOCK.

More Cheese, Please

Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

ENDSPIEL, PHOTO BY LOVIS OSTERNIOK, COURTESY OF BERLINER ENSEMBLE; BERLIN ENSEMBLE THEATER, © MORITZ HAASE; DENKMALGESCHÜTZTES BRECHT-WEIGEL-HAUS AM OSTUFER DES SCHARMÜTZELSEES IN DER BERTOLT BRECHT STRASSE 29/30 IN BUCLKOW, BY LIENHARD SCHUTZ, CREATIVE COMMONS ATTRIBUTION SHARE ALIKE 3.0 UNPORTED; MANFRED WEKWERTH AND GISELA MAY DURING REHEARSALS OF MOTHER COURAGE AND HER CHILDREN (1978), BUNDESARCHIV, BILD 183-T0927-019 / KATJA REHFELD / CC-BY-SA 3.0; DENKMAL BERTOLT BRECHT VON FRITZ CREMER AUF DEM BERTOLT-BRECHT-PLATZ IN BERLIN BY MAREK SLIWCKI, EIGENES WERK, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Clockwise from top left: Brecht's summer house in Buckow; The Berliner Ensemble theater; a show at the Berliner Ensemble; a statue of Bertolt Brecht in front of the Berliner Ensemble. Circular inset: Mother Courage and her Children, 1978.

Brecht’s Berlin Solveig Steinhardt takes a walk around Bertolt Brecht's Berlin. Remember Louis Armstrong's great interpretation of Mack the Knife? Or the lysergic sound of Jim Morrison's voice singing "show me the way to the next whisky bar" in his 1967 recording of Alabama Song? These are just some great examples of how Bertolt Brecht's work has permeated international pop culture, but the playwright's influence on theater has been even greater. Born in Bavaria in 1898, Brecht enjoyed his first successes as a dramatist in Munich during the Weimar Republic era. He moved to Berlin in 1925, where he became acquainted with Marxism and socialism and developed his theory for his "epic theater," in which the play is a forum of political ideas. In order to better convey political thought, Brecht's theater refuses any emotional involvement, which he thought destroys the spectator's ability to judge. Brecht believed instead in alienating the audience through theatrical strategies such as direct address, voice-over narration, posters, and other disruptive tactics.

Berlin was where Brecht wrote his Threepenny Opera, a "play with music" with songs by Kurt Weill. The show, a critique of capitalism, opened on 31 August 1928 at Berlin's Theater am Schiffbauerdamm, and remains one of his most important works. Fearing Nazi persecution, Brecht left Germany in 1933, seeking exile in Scandinavia first and later in the United States. He returned to East Berlin in 1949 with his wife, actress Helene Weigel, to establish a new theater, the Berliner Ensemble, where the Theater am Schiffbauerdamm once was. The best way to take in Brecht's legacy is to visit his Berliner Ensemble theater (www. berliner-ensemble.de, Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1, guided tour in English on 24 Nov), or to attend one of his shows. Der Lebenslauf des Boxers Samson–Körner showing on 1, 3, 4 Nov (call for info on English surtitles), is a fun theatrical rendition of a conversation the playwright once had with boxing champion Samson-Körner, but it also reveals some traits of the dramatist's lively personality.

For a peek into Brecht's private life, check out the Bertolt Brecht Center and Museum (Chausseestr. 125), housed in the apartment where the author lived and worked from 1953 to the day of his death in 1956. The rooms have been partially preserved in their original state, and include Brecht's library of 4,000 volumes. True fans will also want to see what is left of Brecht and Weigel's first East Berlin apartment, a Weissensee townhouse where they lived from 1949 to 1953 (Berliner Allee 185), or travel a bit further out to Buckow to spend some time at the couple's summer house on the Scharmützelsee lake (Bertolt-Brecht-Str. 30, Buckow). The marvelous German-style villa, built in 1910, has been a cultural center dedicated to Brecht since 1977, and now hosts literary evenings, readings, concerts, and movie screenings. Brecht was only 58 when he died of a heart attack. He was buried at the Dorotheenstädtischer cemetery on Chausseestraße, right next to his last apartment. www.wheretraveler.com 49

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ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA

ON THIS MONTH

Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1 Nov: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 8, 15 Nov: Wozzeck (Berg). 9 Nov: Messa da Requiem (Verdi). 10, 16, 22 Nov: Die Sache Makropulos (Janacek). 11 Nov: Lohengrin (Wagner). 18, 24 Nov: Die Fledermaus (Strauss). 23 Nov: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 2, 11, 16, 30 Nov: Cendrillon (Massenet). 3, 10, 11 Nov: Blaubart (Offenbach). 4, 18, 29 Nov: Die Zauberer von Oz (Valtinoni). 4 Nov: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 9, 26, 27 Nov: Anatevka (Bock). 17 Nov: Die Liebe zu drei Orangen (Prokofiev). 24 Nov: Candide (Bernstein). 25 Nov: On the Waterfront (Bernstein). 28 Nov: Die tote Stadt (Korngold). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrenstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 4, 9, 10 Nov: La Bayadere. 17, 25, 30 Nov: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovski). www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

The new Cirque du Soleil show, on from 7 to 11 Nov at Mercedes-Benz-Arena.

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

BALLET & CLASSICAL

THEATER & MUSICALS

CHVRCHES

VOGLER QUARTETT

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL

7 Nov, Tempodrom

10 Nov, Konzerthaus

KYLIE MINOGUE

DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE

7–11 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena

19 Nov, Tempodrom

U2 13 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena

MACEO PARKER 17 Nov, Columbia Theater

JAZZFEST 1–4 Nov, various locations

4 Nov, Komische Oper

MITSUKO UCHIDA 30 Nov, Chamber Music Hall

L'ORFEO (MONTEVERDI) 17, 18, 23, 30 Nov, Staatsoper

DENIS MATSUEV 22 Nov, Philharmonie

BLUE MAN GROUP All month, Bluemax Theater

VIVID, GRAND SHOW All month Friedrichstadt-Palast

CIRCA'S PEEPSHOW All month, Chamäleon Theater

One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 10 Nov: Vogler Quartett. 10, 11 Nov: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Rachlin) performs Beethoven, Mozart. 14 Nov: Giovanni Antonini and Il Giardino Armonico. 22–24 Nov: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Mendez) performs Ravel, Rachmaninoff. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

Philharmonie

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 6 Nov: Jack Quartet in concert. 14 Nov: Jazz at the Philharmonic. 19 Nov: Piotr Anderszewski play Bach, von Webern, and Beethoven. 30 Nov: Pianist Mitsuko Uchida in concert. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 1, 2 Nov: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Dudamel) play Bernstein and Shostakovich. 22 Nov: Denis Matsuev performs Beethoven and Rachmaninov. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

Pierre Boulez Saal

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer)

Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the

Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

COURTESY OF CIRQUE DU SOLEIL.

Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 3, 8, 11 Nov: Trovatore (Verdi). 17, 18, 23, 30 Nov: Orfeo (Monteverdi). 24, 26, 28 Nov: L'Incoronazione di Poppea (Monteverdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

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off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The evening is hosted by: Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

Cinestar Sony Center

22.08. – 11.11. 14.11. – 25.11. 28.11. – 09.12. 12.12. – 13.01. 16.01. – 20.01. 23.01. – 24.02.

Director: Rodrigue Funke

The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

Discover Europe’s

Sunday, 20:00 18 November 2018 Kammermusiksaal Philharmonie Berlin

capital of nightlife

where Be

1/6-Seite h 57 × 124 mm

A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

J. S. BACH Ich hatte viel Bekümmernis W. A. MOZ ART

Krönungs messe

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club

berliner bach akademie

Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Conductor Heribert Breuer

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

©ISTOCK

The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna

Umschlag Innenteil P Schriften e CMYK mind. 300 d

Berlin

Mi-Young Kim Soprano Susanne Langner Alto Patrick Grahl Tenor Klaus Häger Bass For special price please order at info @ berlinerbachakademie.de with code: KROENUNG www.berlinerbachakademie.de www.wheretraveler.com 51

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ENTERTAINMENT Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert. de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and During his Berlin stay in situated on the former grounds of KulturBrauerei 1970, David Bowie shared the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof The early-1900s brewery complex his Hauptstraße 157 – hosts an array of events, from now houses various restaurants and apartment classical concerts and pop-rock art spaces, with a rich combination with Iggy Pop. productions to mixed martial arts and of programs, as well as a very popular 7 Nov: Chvrches. 14 Nov: The dance. street-food market most Sundays. Scottish Music Parade. 19 Nov: Kylie www.kulturbrauerei.de. Minogue. 24 Nov: The Dublin Legends. Schönhauser Allee 36. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1 Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 7–11 Nov: Cirque du Soleil. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast.

Maceo Parker's Legacy Former James Brown sideman and all around funk and soul legend Maceo Parker has been transporting audiences for more than half a century with his energetic sound. In 2011, Parker was inducted into the North Carolina Music Hall of Fame for "having laid down the foundation of funk, rap, and hip hop." Do not miss his only Berlin concert at the Columbia Theater on 17 November. Columbiadamm 9–11. www.columbia-theater.de © ISTOCK; MACEO PARKER: PHOTO BY BORIS BREUER.

Lights... Camera... Berlin!

program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

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ENTERTAINMENT

On 4 Nov, Canadian-Estonian composer Kara-Lis Coverdale will be presenting her experimental piece, Extending Shadows, specifically composed for the Gedächtniskirche's church organ. JazzFest Berlin, www.berlinerfestspiele.de

THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT BERLIN There are many reasons to love the German capital.

1 2 3

de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Bar Jeder Vernunft

Neuköllner Oper

A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

KARA LIS COVERDALE © NADIN DEVENTER. COLUMN © ISTOCK.

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Circa's Peepshow. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world,

this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. All month: VIVID Grand Show. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de.

Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. With English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131-133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße. Off map.

Quatsch Comedy Club

4 5 6

AUGUSTSTRASSE IN MITTE: one long art gallery. SHOPPING AT KADEWE: the biggest department store in Europe. THE MIX OF CULTURES: hundreds of languages and foods.

THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS: a feast of architectural styles. THE CULTURE: three opera houses and myriad theaters big and small. THE CITY’S LAID-BACK NATURE: a relaxed, casual look rules.

This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Staunen, Circus of Stars. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

7 8 9 10

THE SPREE RIVER and the city’s endless waterways. THE CULINARY DIVERSITY, from arroz con pollo to Zimtsterne. EXPERIENCING THE CITY BY NIGHT. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac. THE ASISI WALL PANORAMA: a journey back in time. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

€

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables. Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends. In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”). Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip

from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Public Transport

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ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI The rumors are true – Uber is banned in Berlin. Hail a ride using the My Taxi app instead, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

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16/08/2018 09:30

WHERE NOW | AZAMA BASHIR

AZAMA BASHIR DANCER When the curtain rises, it’s dancers like Azama who bring the spectacular Vegas-style shows of Friedrichstadt-Palast to life. Since moving to Berlin five years ago to join the Mitte theater’s dance ensemble, Azama has graced the stage for numerous productions, including a role as the dazzling Spider Lady in the current VIVID Grand Show. Tickets available online; 5-7 shows every week. www.palast.berlin/en

You were born in Jamaica and grew up in Canada. How did you end up in Berlin? I grew up in Canada and moved to New York to start my training. I was in New York when my twin sister, who was living in London at the time, saw an ad from Friedrichstadt-Palast looking for twins. My sister flew over for an interview and I sent in videos of myself dancing, and from that they chose us for the show THE WYLD, produced by Thierry Mugler. How would you compare Berlin and New York? New York is a very tough city where they focus a lot on being perfect, which was really good for me. But when I came to Berlin I had the freedom to explore the artistic side of being a dancer. Europe in general supports its artists so you’re able to live more comfortably and enjoy the work more. What can the audience look forward to when they come see the new show, VIVID? VIVID is just really special. They use the word “extravaganza” through many of the songs, and that’s really what it is – the costumes, the attention to detail, and all the color. The director Krista Monson, who has also worked with Cirque du Soleil, really is the mastermind behind VIVID. She has this special eye – she

puts the magical finishing touches on everything. She really plays with polarities – the light and darkness of life. Can you tell us anything about your spectacular costume for VIVID? For me, one of the best experiences of a new show is going to costume fittings. My black dress for the Spider Lady costume was designed for my body to accentuate my curves. And I feel super lucky I get to wear a golden headpiece designed by Philip Treacy, one of the world's most famous milliners. It's a golden sun that covers half of my face like a mask, with a big star in the middle and lots of little jewels. I really feel royal and grand in it. When I saw the headpiece I actually cried a bit. Which part of the city do you call home, and what are your favorite things there? I live in Mitte, right across from FriedrichstadtPalast. Most of the dancers live around here too. What I love in Mitte is that there are really great restaurants and bars on Torstrasse. I love to go to Dudu – they have really great sushi – and for the best falafel, go to Dada Falafel. At

night I like to go to Kitty Cheng for a dance, or Odessa Bar. When you have friends or family come to visit, where do you take them? I know it’s a bit taboo, but when I have family or friends visit I like to take them to see the clubs Kit Kat or Berghain. I have a family full of artists so I like them to see what Berlin is really about. And when I have time, I also like to bike around Kreuzberg and Neukölln. In Viktoriapark at the top of Kreuzberg you can really see the sunset. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I’d go to Vabali (www.vabali.de) and spend the whole day by the pool, relaxing, getting a massage, doing things good for the body mentally and physically. It’s a bit pricey but sometimes my boyfriend and I drive to Bleiche (www.bleiche.de). Because of my schedule I like that you can arrive late, have a proper meal, and use the spa 24 hours a day. Just lay out by the sauna, and watch the stars. Clockwise from top left: Viktoriapark; Azama Bashir; Vabali; a corner of Kreuzberg; Azama trying on her Philip Treacy headpiece. Inset: VIVID Grand Show.

VIKTORIAPARK:, NOSTITZSTRASSE © ISTOCK; AZAMA BASHIR PORTRAIT: © DEAN BARUCIJA; AZAMA WITH PHILIP TREACY HEADPIECE: © DENNIS WEINBOERNER; VABALI: COURTESY OF VABALI; VIVID GRAND SHOW KEY VISUAL: COURTESY OF FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST PR.

My Berlin

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