Where Magazine Berlin Oct 2018 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE Â®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

FROM BEHIND THE LENS

WHERETRAVELER.COM

OCTOBER 2018

PLUS VINTAGE TOURS BERLIN FOR MILLIONAIRES

A close-up of the city's most photogenic corners

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CONTENTS

10.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

7 Editor’s Note 8 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

Bargains, bargains, bargains! Big-brand outlet stores without the big price tag.

Highlights of the month, including Oktoberfest, Graphic Days, Berlin Leuchtet, and other festivals.

SIGHTSEEING

East Berlin churches teeming with revolutionary history.

8 66

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Unearth XX Europe's legacy as a maritime continent.

DINING

Cooler weather means it's shellfish season.

20 Ask The Concierge

Berlin's concierges share their secrets.

ENTERTAINMENT

High culture thrives at Berlin's three opera houses.

66 My Berlin Svenja von Reichenbach The head of the new PalaisPopulaire gallery on Berlin's art scene.

NIGHTLIFE

The natural wine trend – an interesting organic option or marketing tosh?

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ON THE COVER: ALEXANDERPLATZ: © ISTOCK.

Hop on a vintage train, tram, or bus for a sightseeing excursion into the past.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

Berlin's "poor but sexy" reputation shouldn't stop you from indulging in luxury. BY ANNABELLE MALLIA

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16 A Trip Down Nostalgia Lane

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A close-up of the city's most photogenic corners

Hundreds of artists on show at the European Month of Photography.

18 A Day As A Millionaire

VINTAGE TOURS BERLIN FOR MILLIONAIRES

12 Photogenic City

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FROM BEHIND THE LENS

WHERETRAVELER.COM

Where Now

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ESSENTIALS

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

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BERLIN LEUCHTET AND RING: © ISTOCK; US ARMY CHILDREN AT A PARADE, 1954: © SAMMLUNG PROVAN, US ARMY, COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM; SHOES BY TALBOT RUNHOF; C/O BERLIN BOOKSHOP: COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN; DAMPFLOK 2 CC BY-SA 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER RUBENTJE01.

Berlin

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Great art is defined by how it moves you. What are you waiting for? Fall is fast approaching – and so is the sports car that goes with it. Visit us at www.porsche.de/drive and reserve your dream Porsche. Or do it in person at Porsche Drive, Franklinstrasse 23 in Berlin or at one of our other locations in Stuttgart, on Sylt or in Rotkreuz (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100km) urban 13.3–11.2 · extra urban 7.6–7.3 · combined 9.7–8.7; CO₂ emissions combined 220–196g/km

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Autumn In Berlin

Let‘s go up!

The one that just went by has been the longest, driest, hottest Berlin summer I’ve experienced since moving to Berlin six years ago. It’s been great, but lately I’ve also been craving some fresh autumn temperatures, some warm-colored trees, and all that delicious fall food I've been missing like soups, risottos, and pies; and with so many new cultural events around the city, I am more than ready to welcome the autumn this year. The European Month of Photography (p. 12), which started at the end of September, has filled the city with hundreds of opportunities to admire many photographers' best shots of the city and beyond, while the German History Museum exhibition Europe and the Sea (p. 41) provides a new perspective of the Old Continent as seen from its surrounding seas. But you shouldn't miss the Archeology in Germany exhibition at Martin-Gropius-Bau, if only for the Nebra Sky disk, the first astronomically correct depiction of the night sky known to mankind, dating back to 1600 BCE.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

www.tv-turm.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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HOT

DATES October is an incredible month to be in Berlin. From a pumpkin craze to illuminated monuments and lots of beer, this month is filled with fabulous events.

PUMPKIN FESTIVAL FROM SATURDAY

You may have trouble finding pumpkin any other time of year, but come October they're everywhere. At the annual Schรถneberg Pumpkin festival on Akazienstraร e they are brought in by the truckload, more than 10,000 cheerful pumpkins of all shapes and sizes. At the weekend-long street fest you'll also find an array of delicacies both savory and sweet, live music, and activities for the little ones.

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

GUSTAVO DUDAMEL FROM THURSDAY

He joined the Venezuelan music project El Sistema at age four, started playing the violin at age 11, and took over the direction of the National Youth Symphony Orchestra at age 18. Now the director of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, he makes a guest appearance with the Berliner Philharmoniker on 25 Oct, dedicating himself to Gustav Mahler, a transitional composer renowned for bridging 19th-century Romantic traditions with the modernism of the 20th century. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de

GRAPHIC DAYS

FROM FRIDAY

Graphic art in all its forms lies at the heart of this three-day festival. About 60 local and international graphic artists, illustrators, and screen printers come together at XLane to create, display, and sell their works of art. The program includes live painting, a night market, and chances to party! www.graphic-days.com

LIGHT FESTIVALS FROM FRIDAY

Two festivals set the city aglow this month: The Festival of Lights transforms Berlin's most famous landmarks with colorful light projections and video art, whereas Berlin Leuchtet (which started on 28 September) transforms many lesser-known buildings, such as historic houses, shopping malls, train stations, and bridges. Almost 500 buildings will be illuminated daily from 7pm to midnight until 14 October. www.festival-oflights.de, www. berlin-leuchtet.com www.wheretraveler.com 9

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OCTOBER a

DAY OF GERMAN UNITY WEDNESDAY

One for all and all for one! This day commemorates the anniversary of German reunification in 1990, when the former GDR officially joined the Federal Republic of Germany after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Celebrated across the country as a public holiday, it is marked in Berlin with a three-day-long folk festival around Brandenburg Gate and Straße des 17. Juni, with food and drinks, live music, and fairground attractions. www.tag-der-deutschen-einheit.berlin.de

OKTOBERFEST

UNTIL SUNDAY

Can't make it to this year's Oktoberfest in Munich? No matter – Berlin boasts a large Bavarianstyle party tent at KurtSchumacher-Damm with jugs of freshly brewed beer, funfair rides, and typical southern specialties such as pork knuckles and pretzels. Prost! www.schaustellerverband-berlin. de/oktoberfest-berlin.html

HORROR NIGHTS FROM SATURDAY

Looking for some Halloween hijinks? Then head to Potsdam’s Filmpark Babelsberg, where monsters, mutants, and zombies roam the movie sets at their annual Horror Nights. It's frightful enough that only visitors 16+ are permitted. Tip: For kid-friendly pumpkin carving, stories, and face painting visit the Botanical Gardens on 28 October. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de

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HOT DATES

Immerse in cutting-edge music at Experimontag night in Kreuzberg's Madame Claude venue. Head to Huxley's to hear the lush dream pop sounds of Beach House in concert. Happy German Unity Day! Join in the lively holiday festivities at Brandenburg Gate. Go back a few centuries in time at the Spandau Citadel's Gauklerfest, a 4-day medieval festival. Admire the work of designers, illustrators, and artists at Berlin Graphic Days at Kreuzberg's XLANE. Gorge on autumnal delights aplenty at the annual pumpkin festival on Schöneberg's Akazienstraße. Admire the colorful illuminations on the city's monuments during the 10-day Festival of Lights. At the Philharmonie, hear renowned composer Max Richter's take on Vivaldi's Four Seasons. The rhythms of the Carmen La Cubana musical take over Admiralspalast. Hear the Boulez Ensemble in concert at Pierre Boulez Saal, including Daniel Barenboim on piano. Admire Berlin's Staatsballett dancing the beautiful and evocative Swan Lake at Deutsche Oper. Jack White, of The White Stripes fame, plays his third solo album tonight at Verti Music Hall. Discover the bounty of the season all weekend long at Domäne Dahlem's Harvest Festival. Last chance! It's the final day of Berlin's big Oktoberfest tent on Tegel's Kurt-Schumacher-Damm. Va-va-voom! Famed burlesque queen Dita von Teese performs a titillating show at Admiralspalast. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, beautiful queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Ready to rock out? Bloc Party plays their celebrated album Silent Alarm at Columbiahalle tonight. The Berlin Burlesque Festival is back! See shows at Wintergarten & Heimathafen until the 21st. Sing along to the catchy indie-pop tunes of the Swedish trio Peter Bjorn and John at Volksbühne. Hear the Formosa Quartet perform Bartók as well as Taiwanese compositions at the Philharmonie. Discover the work of boundary-pushing South Korean artist Lee Bul at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Super cheesy, yet super fun: Sing along with the Boybands Forever show at Admiralspalast. Renowned conductor & pianist Daniel Barenboim plays Beethoven's sonatas at Pierre Boulez Saal. Join the fest at the Street Food Thursday event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. Bon Iver, singer of touching and melancholy indie tunes, performs at Max-Schmeling-Halle tonight. Get in the Halloween mood at the "Horror Nights" freak-fest at Filmpark Babelsberg. Take in some lively, plucky little concerts at the Berlin Ukulele Festival at Tempelhof's ufaFabrik. Germany's babyfaced blues star Jesper Munk takes the stage this evening at Huxley's. Soulful singer Macy Gray, best known for the hit single I Try, plays at ASTRA Kulturhaus tonight. Hear Toronto's successful indie band Metric perform their newest album at Kesselhaus.

BEER JUGS, PUMPKIN, FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS: © ISTOCK. BERLIN GRAPHIC DAYS: © BERLIN GRAPHIC DAYS; DUDAMEL: ADAM LATHAM; HORROR NIGHTS: © BABELSBERG FILM STUDIOS.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

11/09/2018 15:27

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WHERE NOW | PHOTOGRAPHY

From left to right: Azzedine Alala and Naomi Campbell, Helmut Newton Foundation; Marwan Tahtah, Aleppo in Black and Snow; Carson City VI, by Gregor Sailer; US Army Kids at a Parade, 1954, Allied Museum; Herbert List’s Man and Dog in Portofino, 1933.

A PHOTOGENIC CITY October is the European Month of Photography, but it’s also a great month to get out our cameras and immortalize Berlin, says Solveig Steinhardt.

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HELMUT NEWTON FOUNDATION: NAOMI CAMPBELL, NYC 1987, © ARTHUR ELGOT; ; A|E GALERIE, PHOTO BY MARWAN TAHTAH, COURTESY OF A|E GALERIE; KEHRER GALERIE, © GREGOR SAILER, CARSON CITY; JOHANNA BREDE, HERBERT LIST, HERR UND HUND, PORTOFINO 1936, © HERBERT LIST ESTATE, HAMBURG; US ARMY KIDS, © THE ALLIED MUSEUM, SAMMLUNG PROVAN, US ARMY. NEXT PAGE: ALL PHOTOS @ ISTOCK.

WHERE NOW | OUR FAVORITES

veryday objects, captured for their history and uniqueness, such as East Germany’s once-ubiquitous, chicken-shaped egg cups; blackand-white images of post-Wall Berlin; but also abandoned movie sets, mayor’s offices around Germany, or historic photographs of Brandenburg Gate. It is almost impossible to summarize all of the dreams and ambitions portrayed by the 500 artists on show at the European Month of Photography, but each of their photographs depicts a piece of the city’s culture and history. Scattered throughout the whole city and extending down to Potsdam, the festival’s 120 locations include galleries and museums but also photography schools, restaurants, embassies, and even shops. While multilocation festivals may seem confusing at first, they are also liberating: No matter where you are, you can simply walk into the venue closest to you (check the map at www.emopberlin.eu) and admire great photography. The Little America exhibition at the Allied Museum (www.allieiertenmuseum.de), for example, offers an insider’s perspective on life in Berlin’s US military community, while the Heinz von Perckhammer exhibition at the Berlinische Galerie (www.berlinischegalerie. de) presents the photojournalist’s street photography work, heavily influenced by National Socialism from 1933 onwards. Not all the exhibitions depict Berlin, however: the Museum of Photography will be tracing 120 years of photography through

the work of numerous masters including Baselitz, Cartier-Bresson, and Warhol, while the Helmut Newton Foundation next door features fashion portraits collected by Vogue editor-in-chief Carla Sozzani, as well as 30 photos by Newton’s wife, Alice Springs. Elsewhere in the city, the Neue Schule für Fotografie showcases the work of the 12 finalists of the international Leica photo competition, which capture the relationship between humans and the environment, while gallery Johanna Brede Photokunst (Fasanenstr. 69) takes visitors on a journey around the Mediterranean with photographer Herbert List, who fled Nazi Germany with his camera after being persecuted for his Jewish heritage and sexual orientation. And if you are in Potsdam, don’t miss Marwan Tahtah’s oppressive black-andwhite images of a war-torn Aleppo at a | e GALERIE (Charlottenstr. 13).

DIY PHOTO TOUR But is Berlin really that photogenic? It surely doesn’t have the glorious vistas of Rome or the pretty details of Paris and Amsterdam, but its gorgeous art nouveau facades paired with blocks of cement from 1960s or its empty spaces and abandoned factories all have a lot to communicate, making Berlin one of the most interesting cities to portray on film. Here are some of our favorite photo spots: The former Tempelhof Airport, now turned into a park, makes for a great backdrop for interesting portrait

photography, featuring airport runways, rollerbladers or kite-surfers, and an “urban beach” feel with Berlin’s skyline on the horizon. The looming Oberbaum Bridge is a great combination of pretty architecture and history, given its past as the only pedestrian crossing between East and West Berlin. For more romantic images, head to the Admiralsbrücke footbridge at sunset to catch street musicians serenading the locals chilling out by the canal. At Chamissoplatz near Bergmannstraße or around Akazienstraße in Schöneberg you can catch charming facades from the late 1800s and early 1900s, featuring a creative variety of door knobs, tile designs, and www.wheretraveler.com 13

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WHERE NOW | PHOTOGRAPHY

floral art nouveau details. To be inspired by contemporary architecture, go to Postdamer Platz where you’ll find yourself playing with the lines and curves of the contemporary buildings. One place urban photographers really love is Berlin’s U-Bahn. The Alexanderplatz station, with its lime-colored tiles and the juxtaposition of staircases and train platforms, creates very interesting geometric designs; and the staircase of the Eberswalder Straße S-Bahn station is iconic of Prenzlauer Berg, while most stations of the U7 line from Fehrbelliner Platz to Rathaus Spandau are perfect 1960s backdrops for fun and colorful photoshoots. And if you are looking for surreal atmospheres, check out the former NSA listening station in Teufelsberg. The spherical, graffiti-covered structure reminiscent of an abandoned spaceship was

in a prime position to intercept radio signals coming from the East during the Cold War.

USEFUL ADDRESSES

FOLLOW THE PROS

Foto Meyer (Welserstr. 1) sells cameras and photo equipment.

For a bit of welcome support with things like light, speed, aperture, and lenses, your best bet is to join what Berliners call a “photo safari.” These tours are usually led by professional photographers who will also provide tips on composition and teach you about technical details. FotoRutaBer (www.foto-ruta.de) offers what they call the “Streetscape” tour, an urban discovery of the city’s most picturesque locations. On 9 October, the Foto Meyer photography shop (www.fotomeyer.de) will be organizing a tour of the monuments and buildings illuminated for the Festival of Lights, while Westrich (www.westrichfoto.de) specializes in water perspectives with four different boat tourscum-photo-workshops.

Lifesmyle (Friedrichstr. 133) is the place to go for Lomo cameras. Saturn and Mediamarkt (www.saturn. de/www.mediamarkt.de) sell all kinds of photography gear, also including the fun Fujifilm Instax Mini instant cameras. DM (www.dm.de) and Rossmann (www. rossmann.de) provide budget photo printing services, while Jet-Foto (www. jet-foto.de) is where the pros go. B&W photo booths are scattered throughout the city and make for fun souvenirs.

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HELMUT NEWTON FOUNDATION BIS 18. NOVEMBER 2018 BETWEEN ART & FASHION PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE COLLECTION OF CARLA SOZZANI ALICE SPRINGS PORTRAITS 1. DEZEMBER 2018 - 19. MAI 2019 SAUL LEITER / DAVID LYNCH / HELMUT NEWTON NUDES

HELMUT NEWTON FOUNDATION MUSEUM FÜR FOTOGRAFIE JEBENSSTRASSE 2, 10623 BERLIN DI, MI, FR, SA, SO 11-19, DO 11-20 UHR WWW.HELMUTNEWTON.COM

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WHERE NOW | FEATURE

Hop on some vintage transport for sightseeing with an old-timey twist, Hilda Hoy says

t’s often said that history is omnipresent in Berlin. This is a city that has made a practice of remembering, preserving, and commemorating the past, even its darkest chapters. In addition to visiting the city’s numerous museums and monuments, there’s another way to immerse in the feeling of yesteryear: Hopping on a vintage tram, train, or bus for a nostalgic sightseeing excursion with a twist. One of the easiest ways to ride into the past is on the cute, double-decker, vintage 218 bus. Though it’s part of the city’s BVG public transit network, this bus line is more like a sightseeing tour. The west-end route starts at S Messe Nord station and winds all the way through scenic Grunewald Forest before parking nearly an hour later at the edge of Wannsee lake, across from the ferry to the famous Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island). Make sure to climb to the upper level to admire the forest foliage in all its autumnal

glory. Though the route offers frequent departures, the vintage 1970s bus serves the route only about every two hours – check www.traditionsbus.de for timetables. On the other end of the sprawling city is another opportunity to go back several decades in time on public transit. The Woltersdorfer Straßenbahn (www. woltersdorfer-strassenbahn.com) is a tiny tram line that has connected the Brandenburg town of Woltersdorf to Berlin’s S-Bahn network for more than a century. Even today, the route is operated with a charming fleet of East German Gothawagen trams built between 1959-1961. The chunky, cheerful cars are equipped with a friendly driver and a charming, wooden interior, attracting a mix of commuting locals and daytrippers eager to experience a bit of nostalgia. The 6-km

route begins at S Rahnsdorf station before rattling and rumbling through an unspoiled stretch of Köpenicker Forest. Final stop, the town of Woltersdorf, is a sleepy, quaint place featuring lakeside strolls as well as several cafés. Similarly, the nearby Schöneiche Straßenbahn (www.srs-tram.de) is a tram line connecting S Friedrichshagen station to the small Brandenburg town of Rüdersdorf. The route, which runs about every 20 minutes, is served by a mix of vintage 1970s trams, Czechoslovak cars from the 1980s,

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WHERE NOW | VINTAGE TOURS and more modern ones brought in to improve barrier-free access. The line is about twice as long as the nearby Woltersdorfer Straßenbahn, although the route through the forest is not quite as scenic. For those who want to go even further back in time, hop on a special tour operated by a group of train fanatics. Berlin Macht Dampf (www.berlin-macht-dampf.com) is a non-profit with the mission of preserving historic trains, offering a regular schedule of excursions and adventures all around the region. On 14 October, for example, train enthusiasts can hop on a three-hour tour

G o b a c k in t im e on a steam t r a in e x c u r s io n .

all around the city perimeter, pulled by a massive 1940s steam locomotive. Passengers can enjoy the scenery from their seats in one-time Reichsbahn carriages or get a snack in the 1936 Mitropa dining car. The chuffing locomotive departs from various stations to circle the Berlin ring line several times before diverging through Grunewald forest and concluding in Potsdam. Seats are limited, and advance booking is a must. If you’ve got a more serious case of wanderlust, venture even further afield with the association’s train excursions, this month to Dresden or Saxon Switzerland national park. For a more personalized tour of the city’s streets, don’t miss the chance to cruise around on your own set of vintage wheels. Trabi Safari (www.trabisafari.de) offers individual and group tours in a fleet of toylike Trabant cars, or Trabis, an East German model produced between 1957–1990. Equipped with a simple little two-stroke

engine and a body of plastic (made from recycled cotton waste from the Soviet Union), the Trabi may not be the fastest or most comfortable ride around, though it fully makes up for it with charm. Before getting behind the wheel, keep in mind that all the cars are equipped with a manual transmission. If you’d prefer the chauffeur treatment, the company can provide a driver to regale you with stories from the days when Trabis roamed the streets of East Berlin. The West German counterpart to the Trabi, of course, was the iconic Volkswagen Beetle (Käfer in German). Take one out for a spin via Oldie Käfer Tour (www.oldie-kaefer-tourberlin.de), a company started by a group of friends who spent years collecting classic, original Beetles, including convertibles and one of the so-called “Hippie Vans” from the 1960s. Flexible rentals of 2–24 hours let you explore the city on a self-guided Beetle tour. The only question is: Where to go first?

DAMPFLOK 2 CC BY-SA 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER RUBENTJE01; TRABI SAFARI CC BY-NC 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER ALBERTUS82; TRAM, © HILDA HOY. DINING CAR: © DAMPFLOKFREUNDE/BAJOHRA.

Far left: the Woltersdorfer Straßenbahn. This photo: a classic steam locomotive. Right: Berlin Macht Dampf’s1930s dining car. Below: Trabants on a Trabi Safari tour.

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WHERE NOW | LUXURY

A DAY AS A Spending €30,000 in just one day isn’t easy in Berlin, but if you have that urge, Annabelle Mallia will show you how to do that. decade ago Berlin’s mayor Klaus Wowereit famously defined Berlin “poor but sexy,” referring to its low cost of living which attracted creative types from around the globe. Berlin is definitely the right place if you want to immerse yourself in art and history. However, there is also ample opportunity to indulge in sheer luxury. If only I could spend 24 hours as a millionaire, here’s what I’d do:

PERSONALIZED SHOPPING

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S Diamonds are a girl’s best friend, as the old saying goes, and rightly so at Tiffany & Co (also at KaDeWe, www.tiffany.com). Like Audrey Hepburn’s character Holly, I’ve often peered through their window admiring the beautiful jewels on display. The Tiffany Blue Book collection features the world’s rarest gems and one-of-a-kind treasures, but I would stick with a classic diamond ring to make my socialite splash. Cost: Tiffany Celebration Ring: €15,000

A CUT ABOVE THE REST Forget about the usual meat patty at the local burger joint. Steak aficionados can 18 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2018

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Far left to right: A diamond ring; the personal shopper service at KaDeWe; The Grand restaurant; Champagne on ice

gorge on the finest meats in town at The Grand restaurant. On the grill menu is Irish Herford Prime, Charolais, Kobe, Pommern, GOP, and Luma, all prepared on a special grill reaching up to 800 degrees Celsius to guarantee a caramelized crust and juicy inside. Order yours with port jus and a side of roasted foie gras and morel risotto, savoring every bite under their grandiose chandelier. Cost: Full dinner: €560 for two

FLYING HIGH The best view of the TV Tower, Reichstag dome, and the capital’s other historical sites is unequivocally from even higher up, on an Air Service Berlin (www.air-service-berlin. de) Helicopter Tour. Book the premium

service, which includes the “skip the line” option, sparkling wine reception, and a Lincoln limousine ride from the gate to the helicopter pad, where the private jets of the rich and famous also take off. Cost: €450 for two

RING: © ISTOCK. KADEWE: COURTESY OF KADEWE; THE GRAND: COURTESY OF THE GRAND.

Standing grandly at one end of the West’s famed shopping strip, KaDeWe (Tauentzienstraße 21-24, www.kadewe. de) is synonymous with prestigious goods and the main destination for unparalleled luxury. And because time is money, as they say, the KaDeWe even offers a personal shopping service. Simply sit back and relax in your private suite, sipping a flute of champagne, as your expert fashion consultant provides a personalized selection of clothing and accessories plus pro styling tips. There’s also no schlepping bags around, as whatever you decide to purchase can be delivered directly to your hotel. Cost: Personal shopping service and purchases: €1,800

FIRSTCLASS NIGHTLIFE Opulence and big cars are key at The Pearl (Fasanenstr. 81, www.thepearl-berlin.de), where a bottle of champagne can cost up to €10,000. Book the exclusive Grey Goose table on the dance floor and rock the rest of the night away. Cost: Moët & Chandon - Gold Edition Jeroboam (3 L) €10,000

GR A

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17/09/2018 12:25

WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Tim Sachse, concierge at Hilton Berlin, is here to help.

When you have visitors, where do you take them? To places they definitely haven’t seen yet, for example, underground Berlin on an Unterwelten tour or the old NSA Cold War listening station on Teufelsberg hill. Secret tips for Berlin? The Espresso Concerts at the Konzerthaus Berlin: 45 minutes of music for €8, espresso included. Just perfect! (9, 17, 24, 31 October at 2pm) Describe Berlin in three words. Twenty-four-seven. What do you do in your free time? I love to go to the cinema, especially the Zoo Palace and CineStar at the Sony Center for films in English, or a glass of wine at Weinbar Rutz. Share your wildest experience as a concierge. Oh dear, I remember a wild chase after a pickpocket from Gendarmenmarkt to

Alexanderplatz, where at the end the bag could be returned to its owner. What do you recommend for this time of year? Autumn is perfect for visiting the many art museums in Berlin. My favorite? The Urban Nation Museum for Urban Contemporary Art in Schöneberg. Tips for a German specialty? Königsberger Klopse, a Prussian specialty of meatballs in a white sauce with capers. What differentiates Berlin from other big cities? Berlin is very green, has lots of water, and even more bridges than Venice. A romantic suggestion? Gendarmenmarkt square, rightly considered the most beautiful square. Your recommendation for a true Berlin experience? House of Weekend Club, Watergate, or Kater Blau: Berlin's urban club culture. What is the best way to see the city? If the weather permits, then definitely by bike. You can even follow the former course of the Berlin Wall.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations. From above right to bottom: House of Small Wonder; Zoo Palast; Urban Nation Museum; Gendarmenmarkt.

HOUSE OF SMALL WONDER MEDIUM ©STEFAN KÜHNE; ZOO PALAST: COURTESY OF ZOO PALAST; URBAN NATION MUSEUM : COURTESY OF URBAN NATION MUSEUM; GENDARMENMARKT: © IPHOTO.

What does your perfect day look like? Sleep in, breakfast at the House of Small Wonder, relax at Liquidrom spa, stroll along luxury shopping strip Ku'Damm, and dinner at Cafè am Neuen See near the fireplace.

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Bargains, Bargains, Bargains! Annabelle Mallia seeks out the big brands without a big price tag. There are those who are willing to pay a fortune for the newest fashion and there are those like me, willing to travel a little further for last season’s excess stock at significantly reduced prices. Here are my favorite outlet stores around town: MCARTHURGLEN DESIGNER OUTLET This place looks like a small village with colorful houses and lots of cafés and restaurants. You’ll find about 90 stores here, including brands like Adidas, Calvin Klein, Desigual, Hugo Boss, Liebeskind Berlin, and Villeroy & Boch. There is a free shuttle bus departing from Ku’Damm on Fridays and Saturdays and even a drop-in childcare center. Alter Spandauer Weg 1, www.mcarthurglen.com MARC CAIN FACTORY OUTLET A worldwide premium brand for women’s

fashion, Marc Cain specializes in evening gowns, but you can also get jeans, sportswear, and heaps of accessories at this outlet. Everything is at least 40% off retail prices. Oudenarderstr. 16, www.marc-cain.com GSTAR OUTLET This is a denim lover’s paradise, with jeans and jackets galore and well sorted for browsing. You can pick up a pair of jeans for about €15! But you do need to register online for a member card. Nunsdorfer Ring 2-10, www.gsfo.com TRIPPEN FACTORY OUTLET Known for its sustainable and ergonomic designs, this award-winning Berlin shoe label has established itself worldwide. The outlet carries mostly seconds, but with purely aesthetic flaws. There are hundreds of shoes here in a range of colors, so have a plan of

attack. There is also a tiny store next door that sells pieces of leather left over from production. Köpenicker Str. 187-188, www.trippen.com ZALANDOOUTLET Everyone knows the online shopping platform Zalando. At their old factory building in Kreuzberg you can enjoy the Zalando shopping fun with the extra benefit that you get to touch, try on, and immediately take the items home. The range is mostly for women and conveniently arranged by size, but there is also a small section for men and kids. Köpenicker Str. 20, www.zalando-outlet.de

MCARTHURGLEN DESIGNER OUTLET: COURTESY OF MCARTHURGLEN DESIGNER OUTLET; ZALANDO OUTLET: COURTESY OF ZALANDO OUTLET; MARC CAIN.

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße E3

Galeria Kaufhof

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children's world and expansive gourmet section, there's truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

HEMA Here! There’s no mistaking that bright red logo—HEMA has arrived in Berlin! When HEMA first opened in 1926 in Amsterdam, their vision was to be the department store for anybody and everybody, and they’ve continued their mission to this day. Affordable and well-made housewares, clothing, food, stationery, décor, and beauty items are wonderfully designed with ease of use and reliability in mind. Pop into their newest branch in Steglitz for the perfect item for the home or browse their selection for inspiration for your next project. Schloßstr. 4-5. T: 030.26577672. www.hemashop.com.

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton www.wheretraveler.com 23

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SHOPPING

BLACK &WHITE

Naturally elegant, like in an old black-and-white film.

1. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstr. 50. 2. Marc O'Polo, Kurfürstendamm 220. 3. MCM, Kurfürstendamm 186. 4. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstr. 50. 5. Diesel, Kurfürstendamm 17. 6. Designer Remix, online store www.designersremix.com. 7. Marciano, Peek & Cloppenburg, Tauentzienstr. 19. 24 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2018

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SHOPPING Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if you're cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marina Rinaldi Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and

accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara. com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Strellson

This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on Mientus clear cuts and top quality for their The Ku'damm was West One of the largest providers of suits and other urban wears, as Berlin's most important exclusive fashion in Germany. Four well as transparent values and shopping strip during levels housing collections from top the Cold War. work attitudes. international designers like Dolce & www.strellson.com. Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. Münzstr. 8. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.24724042. T: 030.3239077. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2 U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Prost! It’s Oktoberfest season, and though Bavaria is 500 miles away, Berlin’s beer gardens do a great job bringing to town the world-famous Southern German beer tradition and all that goes with it, including pretzels, sausages and the traditional Bavarian dress. If you really want to blend in, get yourself a Tracht, which consists of a shirt and Lederhosen for the boys, or a Dirndl for the girls. You’ll find the city’s largest selection at Angermeier (KarlLiebknecht-Str. 30) which also carries matching bras, jewelry, and other accessories. Sportalm (Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35, pictured) designs a new Bavarian collection every year, while at TK Maxx (Wilmersdorfer Str. 108), you can pick up the previous season’s models at outlet prices.

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5 Eco-Friendly Fashion Stores

24COLOURS

HARBOUR

COUTURE

Their fair-trade women’s clothing is mostly casual, but always unique: every piece is only produced 300 times. Oderberger Str. 20. www.24colours.de

NATURKAUFHAUS This organic department store in Steglitz has four floors of organic clothes, shoes, textiles, and furnishings, as well as a large selection of cosmetics. Schloßstr. 101. www.naturkaufhaus-gmbh.de

ADRETT Offering German-made fashion from Berlin and Munich designers, this small boutique only sells handmade, sustainable garments. Weinbergsweg 23. www.adrett-berlin.de

FLAGSHIPSTORE Casual and comfortable clothing from eco-friendly sources. Oderberger Str. 53. www.flagshipstore-berlin.de

SUPERMARCHÉ From the striped underwear to the egg cups and lamps, everything here comes from fair-trade businesses or is made with organic materials. Wiener Str. 16. www.supermarche-berlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 27

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THE BARGAIN HUNTER

THE DESIGN GURU

THE SHOPAHOLIC

Numerous labels cluster around Hackescher Markt. Around nearby Mulackstraße is where many local designers have their boutiques and ateliers. S Hackescher Markt

Flanked by a towering department store, shopping mall, and multi-storey electronics store, Alexanderplatz attracts masses of shoppers with its big labels and chains. S+U Alexanderplatz

WHERE TO SHOP.

With a total of four shopping malls, including the recently opened Boulevard Berlin, one of the largest urban malls in the country, this street in the city’s southwest is a haven for shopping fans. U Schloßstraße

THE BROWSER Bergmannstraße is made for browsing, with plentiful fashion, home, and lifestyle shops interspersed with cafés for taking a break. Visit Marheinekeplatz market hall for gourmet gift ideas. U Mehringdamm

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www.trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as

THE LUXURY SHOPPER

THE INDIVIDUAL

This Kastanienallee artery leading from Mitte into Prenzlauer Berg is lined with small, independent shops where you’ll discover home décor, design objects, unique souvenirs, and pieces from small fashion labels. U Rosenthaler Platz

Tell us who you are, we'll tell you

THE ACTIVE SHOPPER

On Sundays, the Mauerpark flea market teems with bargain hunters. The small design and vintage shops on the adjoining Oderberger Straße, meanwhile, are open every other day of the week. U Eberswalder Straße

PING SPE P C HO

SHOPPING

THE MULTI – TASKER Combine sightseeing with premium shopping along Friedrichstraße. Luxury department stores and malls such as Galeries Lafayette and Mall of Berlin rub elbows with high-end boutiques and key sites like the Brandenburg Gate, Gendarmenmarkt, and Checkpoint Charlie. S+U Friedrichstraße

Presided over by the venerable KaDeWe department store, Kurfürstendamm and Tauentzienstraße have long been one of Berlin’s major luxury shopping strips. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz

well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports

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SHOPPING accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pikolinos Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com. Kurfürstendamm 216. Uhlandstraße. C4

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

O GR P A O EN N C I D T N O G B E R

ADVERTORIAL

Occupying an entire corner of Mitte's grandiose Gendarmenmarkt is a piece of chocolate paradise. The Rausch Schokoladenhaus, no less than the largest chocolate emporium in the world, features three floors and 1500 sq. m. of unadulterated indulgence that will surely make a chocoholic out of anyone. The extensive offerings of the ground-floor shop include the world’s longest praline counter, with more than 200 praline types to choose from. Marvel at the towering masterpieces created out of pure chocolate, like the Brandenburg Gate, TV Tower, and the Berlin Bears, before heading upstairs to an audiovisual exhibition exploring the journey of Rausch's fine cocoa. Then take a seat at the Chocolate Cafe, serving a delectable selection of exquisite tortes and desserts from Rausch's own patisserie (plus a great view over Gendarmenmarkt). Since 1918, the Rausch vision has been to spread joy and pleasure through the most exceptional chocolates – taste the dedication with every bite.

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES

New Era Flagship Store

Pure Chocolate Heaven

Unützer

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Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening, with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey and salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus. Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160. S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas,

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all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate.

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As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Markthalle Neun Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Check the website for other foodie events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays and periodic cheese and sweets markets. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43. T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Mampe Spirituosen The famous Berlin-based liquor company has a new home in the Bergmannkiez. Browse the shelves of the shop for great bottles to bring home. shop.mampe.berlin. Am Tempelhofer Berg 6. T: 030. 208484470. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE Rosenthaler Platz

GORM ANNS T

LINIENSTRASSE

TORS

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No 74

Rosa-Luxemburg Platz

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Oakley Michael Kors MCM

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ROS Wolfen Germany Boutique ASSE STSTR AUGU Greta & Luis Ka tje sC afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Be Lieb -Oh SOP n S es r HIE k h i n e NST RAS rman d SE Promobo MÜHLE Store Berlin Home on earth Trippen

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NZ STR Ad ASS ida As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s ka yk KS ek Bu ni or d a designer depot n y UN ffaloa Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 030 28045275 www.boots-and-shoes.de S Hackescher Markt SHOP STOP

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R. UHLANDSTR.

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Marooush LIETZENBURG

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

JOACHIMSTHALER STR.

K URF

END ÜR S T

MEINEKESTR.

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Uhlandstraße Papeterie Caran D‘ache Catherine Nail Salon

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SYBELSTR. Unützer TS TR Schuhboutique .

stilwerk Berlin Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst

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STR. Rahaus Living Margulies Jeannette Junior ROOKS & ROCKS

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Planet Berlin Beatrice von Tresckow ES

Tatem

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Zoologisch er Garten

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Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

GOETHESTR.

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SAVIGNYPLATZ/CITY WEST

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HACKESCHE HÖFE

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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l TZIE Kurfürstendamm sigua NST e Kars D RAS Shoe City er i tadt s SE i re M KP he ovskton n WittenbergM n ar et A M K e D ä S Be N the platz Sw BenBlueo rlin Woh STE Py NIEBUHRSTR. lone GO lfah at FÜR LEtore EN e rt s om KUR M T S S W Uhlandstraße IS e e FALKE TO ichae Talbot Runhof BR MmE KaDDeW Piko MMY H l Kors EE i Ka AIGNER S Wem lino ILFI MOMMSENSTR. teiff s G L Po ER MOMMSENSTR. vanACOSpe rs B Laa TE Ren che D uche Tumi Yves Saint Laurent BCBG ck rer esi éL M g eza AX Louis Vuitton AZ rd n MM RIA Par Augsburger Str. Hermès NDA fum RSTE Ro Ch Ü salo Unützer Bo F B sen op ally UR Val n tte K GI B a tha erlin e r ga ES l SØR E Ven ntino d EB Ma SCA RE eta uri DA Bu CH Milano BOGGI c lga eL TS acr ri Do TR. Jens Richard TR. oi lce RGER S Jil &G Gucci x LIETZENBU Sa ab nd Bu M M b A e rbe an r END rry a Cartier | Campbell | Chanel ÜRST Ma KURF xM Ermenegildo Zegna Adenauer- Tom Mulberry ara / Ma bo MCM | PRADA platz lin rin i aR ina ldi ROLEX Boutique

SHOP STOP

BIKINI BERLIN

Bikini Berlin is all about fashion, design and good vibes. The concept shopping mall is renowned for its lovingly curated stores, as well as a number of pop-up boxes where brands can launch new products. Another highlight is the Kantini food market, serving up culinary delights from various different countries. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 55496455 www.bikiniberlin.de

SHOP STOP

PARFUMSALON

BOOTS & SHOES

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 92031876 www.boots-and-shoes.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

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ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

YSTR

ASSE

JOH AN NIS STR .

Friedrichstadt-Palast

TUCH

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AllSaints Superdry

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Annette Görtz Store Berlin

Französische Straße

R. FR IE DR IC H ST

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GALERIES LAFAYETTE /Q207

COS Massimo Dutti Wempe Montblanc BABOR

BOSS Maurice Lacroix

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Gucci Galeries Lafayette

Quartier 206 Umasan

Marina Rinaldi Thomas Sabo MaxMara

JÄG ERS TRA SSE

Gendarmenmarkt

The Q.

Stefanel

MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SHOPPING MAPS

MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO

DESIGUAL

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

Mavi

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

INTIMISSIMI

MAX & CO.

S & D sons and

TOMMY HILFIGER

Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Mephisto

daughters

TOMMY JEANS

Esprit

JD Sports

Eterna Fashion & Accessories

FASHION CLUB

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

Diamond

Change

Kingz

MAKEUP

LACOSTE

Foot Locker

LIEBESKIND

French Connection Frisco Jeans

Lief!

TWIN-SET

Schiesser

UN1DEUX2TROIS3

Schuh Bode

Undiz

SHOE CITY

Oakley

Levi’s

Fossil

Triumph

Sarar

Nike NYX PROFESSIONAL

Konplott

Fast Forward

Trigema

Salamander

NAVYBOOT

KARL LAGERFELD

FALKE

7 FOR ALL

Muji

Vans

Sidestep

Olymp

VERO MODA

Sizeer

Palmers

WE-Fashion

PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

ARMANI EXCHANGE

CHRIST

G-Star Raw

Liu Jo

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

LLOYD

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

ZARA

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

L’Occitane

Peek &

Street Shoes

ZERO

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

GUESS

Look 54

Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

BREE

Codello

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Sony Center CineStar/IMAX LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

POTS

LEIPZIGER STRASSE

Potsdamer Platz

CinemaxX

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RASSE

EBER

VOSSSTRASSE

LMST

WILHE

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Mohrenstr.

Dalí Museum

BUNDESRAT

Potsdamer Platz

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Blue Man Group Theater

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING © ISTOCK.

ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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Clockwise from top left: The Gethsemane Church; the Chapel of Reconciliation; The Frauenkirche in Dresden; decoration of the cupola of the Frauenkirche.

From Prayers To Freedom Twenty-nine years ago, in the autumn of 1989, churches throughout East Germany were teeming with revolutionary activity. Activists worked tirelessly to protest the East German regime and its lack of freedom of speech, press, and expression. Interestingly, the church was the only safe space where these freedoms still existed, and the people who attended these meetings were the same people who led the Peaceful Revolution that culminated in the fall of the Berlin Wall on 9 November, 1989. In Leipzig, the epicenter of the revolution, a weekly prayer group at the Nikolaikirche gradually evolved to also include post-prayer mass demonstrations. Similar protests took place at other East German churches, like the Dresden

Frauenkirche (a pretty Baroque church that is now a popular tourist destination) and East Berlin’s Gethsemane Church in Prenzlauer Berg (Stargarder Str. 77, www.ekpn.de). Under its stocky Romanesque arches and vaults, this church became both a sanctuary and information headquarters during the revolution. The church kept its doors unlocked day and night for the protesters, and information on demonstrations, arrests, and police violence in East Germany was relayed every day through the church’s telegraph and telephones, while evening worship services continued. The protests reached a turning point on 7 October, when the police arrested hundreds of demonstrators. The next day, and in the days leading up to the opening of the border, a

candlelight vigil was held for those detained and arrested. Today, in addition to regular Sunday services, Gethsemane Church is still home to many civil rights meetings. The site of the Chapel of Reconciliation (www.kapelle-versoehnung.de), part of the Berlin Wall Memorial, saw just as much history. The original Church of Reconciliation on this site was demolished in 1985 after decades of existing bleakly in the so-called Death Strip, right in the middle of the Berlin Wall's no-man’s land. When the Wall fell, plans immediately commenced to build a memorial chapel in remembrance of the capital’s divided past and united future. Today, the visually impressive clay and wooden Chapel of Reconciliation still holds weekly services.

Serene Tseng spends a day in the former East to learn about the pivotal role churches played in the fall of the Berlin Wall.

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MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

WALL BASICS

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. To see what the Berlin www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Wall really looked like, Breitscheidplatz. visit the last remaining T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer untouched stretch at Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4 Bernauer Straße.

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms in 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grace in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

A compact guide to the five most important Berlin Wall sites.

To see what the Wall really looked like in all its gray and intimidating might, visit its last remaining untouched stretch at the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, between Nordbahnhof and U Bernauer Straße.

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For a more colorful stretch of the infamous barrier, check out the mural paintings on the East Side Gallery (S+U Warschauer Str.), painted by artists in the early 1990s. Those running short on time can admire a still-standing portion of the Berlin Wall without leaving the center, on the western side of the Topographie des Terrors grounds in Niederkirchnerstraße.

If you want a more emotional Wall experience, artist Yagedar Asisi did a fantastic job recreating the Wall atmospheres, views, and noises on an October day in 1980 in his Wall Panorama installation in Friedrichstraße (www.asisi.de).

Now that you’ve seen the main views, go pro by examining the rest of the Wall at the so-called “Wall cemetery,” an abandoned field in Teltow (Oderstraße, S Teltow Stadt then bus X1), just outside of Berlin, where the city placed dozens of remaining Wall slabs, some artfully painted, some gray, all surrounded by overgrown grass.

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SIGHTSEEING Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Gleis 17 Between 1941 and 1945, 50,000 Berlin Jews were packed into the freight and cattle cars of 186 trains leaving from Track 17 of the Grunewald Station, destined for the concentration camps and ghettos of Auschwitz, Theresienstadt, Riga, and Lodz. The track is no longer in use, and a

The Station Of Goodbyes Busy, bustling, lively. If you were to ask anyone to describe Friedrichstraße today, they would undoubtedly use those adjectives. But look around the station, and you’ll discover signs of its melancholy history. Located in the former East, the station was the city's border crossing for civilians, and the adjacent building, now known as the Tränenpalast, or Palace of Tears, was where West German visitors said goodbye to loved ones living in the East. Today, the building houses a permanent exhibition on these dramatic separations. But these weren't the only sad goodbyes the station had to witness: During the Nazi era, the station was the point of departure for the first Kindertransport trains, special rescue convoys that helped Jewish children escape deportation and find refuge in orphanages and foster homes in the UK. A bronze sculpture by the Georgenstraße entrance, called Trains To Life, Trains To Death, depicts the contrasting fates of those children and those who instead had to board the death trains to Auschwitz.

plaque commemorates the tragic events. The small square in front of the S-Bahn station also features sculptures and installations dedicated to the deportees. S Grunewald. Off Map

hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz

Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24

Karl-Marx-Allee

KPM Berlin Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as KPM Berlin for short, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned porcelain tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, take a break in the café, and – of course

COURTESY OF TRAENENPALAST, PHOTO BY PETRAS.

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

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– shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystraße 1. T: 030 390090. S Tiergarten. C3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie)

until 5pm). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents. Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

here a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host a number of exhibitions about extermination methods, daily life of prisoners and the medical experiments performed on them. Open 8:30am– 6pm (until 4:30pm mid-Oct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed on Mondays. € free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Botanischer Garten

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or Sachsenhausen aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s The former Tempelhof Concentration Camp free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium Airport, built in Nazi Built by prisoners as a model ticket: €20/10. www.aquariumtimes and later used for concentration camp in 1936, berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de the 1948 Berlin Airlift, is Sachsenhausen’s first inmates were Hardenbergplatz 8. now a public park. mainly political prisoners, whereas T: 030.254010. Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 people considered “inferior” were brought

Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of

the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

The best

events in town

Karls-Erlebnisdorf What began as a family-run strawberry farm has blossomed into an amusement park empire. With seven locations, including one just west of Berlin city limits, Karls Erlebnisdorf offers year-round fun for the whole family. Sample the famous Karl's strawberries and all sorts of berry treats, take a ride down the roller coaster or giant potato sack slide, and have all sorts of memorable adventures. Open daily 8am–7pm. Price per activity varies. www.karls.de. Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal. T: 038.2024050. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). Discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

©ISTOCK

Stasi Prison

This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

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Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. Discounts when booking online. Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr. Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 0179.3585390.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

20th-Century Slavery

One of the worst repressive measures of the Nazi dictatorship was the establishment of forced labor and slavery, which also contributed to the mass extermination of populations in German-occupied Europe. Nazi Germans abducted as many as 12 million people, mainly from Central and Eastern Europe, in order to use them for free factory labor supporting the German military. In Berlin, thousands of political opponents, Jews, and other "undesirable" people, both Germans and foreigners, were sent to the forced labor camp at Schöneweide, whose well-preserved barracks now house The Nazi Forced Labor Documentation Center. While half of the barracks are currently being used by small private businesses and are not publicly accessible, five barracks host the memorial center and exhibitions, and Barrack 13 still bears the Italian forced laborers’ inscriptions on the walls. Britzer Str. 5. 030.639028821. www.dz-ns-zwangsarbeit.de

For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

Schiffskontor Here you can rent a charter boat for that special occasion in various styles from bygone eras. Tours include along the River Spree to the historical city center or further east to the canals of Neu-Venedig. www.schiffskontor.de. Am Speicher 7. T: 030 246479960. S Rummelsburg.

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ABRAHAM STORCK: © AMSTERDAM MUSEUM; DEEP SEA EXPLORATION SONAR 1990: © GEOMAR HELMHOLTZ ZENTRUM FÜR OZEANFORSCHUNG KIEL PHOTO BY LINDA PLAGMANN, DOPPELSEITEAUS_DER_ZEITSCHRIFT DIE NEUE LINIE 1938 GERDA ROTERMUND GRAFIK C. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM.

THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Clockwise from above left: Advertisement for the Nazi beach resort of Prora; Ship traffic outside the port of Amsterdam in a 1698 painting by Abraham Storck; A sonar for deep sea exploration; Advertisement poster for a ship company.

The Old Continent And The Sea Solveig Steinhardt is swept away by the history of the surrounding seas at the German History Museum. Why is the color blue so predominant on our world map? The sea covers more than 70% of the planet’s surface, yet those who aren’t directly on the coastline often overlook its importance beyond its appeal as a holiday destination or as a source of delicious fish. Oceans have been the object of political disputes, battlefields in times of war, and intensely used transit spaces in the era of mass migration – and their mysterious depths are still the object of intensive scientific research. To explore just how profoundly the sea has shaped our history, this fall the German History Museum presents Europe and the Sea, an exhibition describing the Old Continent from the unprecedented perspective of its seas. Until 6 January, visitors will learn about the political history of the

world’s water masses through 400 historic and contemporary exhibits: Paintings of port cities and models of ships trace the development of maritime trade between Europe's most important ports, including Venice, Gdansk, and Amsterdam, while maps and contracts detail the age of expansion, the conquest of "new worlds," and the atrocities of the slave trade between Europe and the American continent. Historically, the sea has been an important transit space for mass migration. Since the early 1800s, dozens of millions of Europeans emigrated on large ships to find a better life in the Americas or Australia. Their ship passage was often long and stressful, but probably less perilous than the one today's migrants have to endure in the Mediterranean, as documented through

objects like broken phones and life vests, maps, and photos. The exhibition also traces the history of the modern beach vacation, whose invention was attributed to a Brighton doctor who, back in 1750, started recommending seaside stays as a cure for various conditions. The city in southern England became a fashionable sea spa for the nobility, and the idea took over the whole European continent. By the early 1900s, the middle class had conquered the seaside, and during the Nazi years, the Führer decided to reward his working class with state-funded sea vacations, for which he created the monster building of Prora on the Baltic Sea – 4.5 kms of apartments facing the beach. Check out the architectural plans for the building, along with ads of the time praising its beauty. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES # gropiusbau

Berliner Festspiele

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3 Image: Lee Bul, Willing To Be Vulnerable, 2015-16

LEE BUL

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. From 11 Oct: Henriette von Carlowitz Reborn. The Restoration of a Painting by Anton Graff. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum

An exhibition organised by the Hayward Gallery, London, in collaboration with the Gropius Bau, curated by Stephanie Rosenthal.

Funded by

The Gropius Bau is funded by

Bröhan Museum

Gropius Bau Niederkirchnerstraße 7, 10963 Berlin Wed – Mon, 10:00 – 19:00, Closed on Tue

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

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Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Oct: Jablonec 68 The East-West-Jewelry-Summit. Celebrating the past 50 years of jewelry history and artisans kickstarted by the Prague Spring. To 3 Oct: Grapus - A French Collective of Graphic Designers. Following the world and legacy of French graphic design of the past 50 years. www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 3 Feb: Revealed By The Reverse. The Hidden History of a Painting by Adolph Menzel. Tracing the origins and journeys of the works in the museum’s permanent collection. To 4 Nov: Saving. History of a German Virtue. Exploring how the act of saving became linked to Germany. To 6 Jan: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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MUST SEE At the museum for all things

technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 18 Nov: Paris Music Engraving Studio, Berlin. Photographs of a deserted studio, where Hans-Joachim Paris ran his family’s sheet music engraving studio. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill

this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

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The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 4 Nov: Proudly Perverted: Perspectives on the WomenLesbianTrans*Inter*BDSM Community. A showcase of the culture of consent. To 6 Nov: Radical - Lesbian - Feminist. Following the history of the activist group, the Lesbisches

2,80 €)

open daily:

Jan–Jun 12 p.m.–8 p.m. Jul–Aug 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Sep–Dec 12 p.m.–8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m. Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Deutsches Technikmuseum

2707

3360

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 €/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 €/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until December, 31st 2018.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

For Explorers!

All aboard for a trip down memory lane! Ride the U2 out to the far western reaches of the line to discover a fascinating collection of train and transport artifacts. The U-Bahn Museum, housed in a wing of the U2 Olympia-Stadion station, documents the storied history of the train network that has been moving Berliners for more than a century. The comprehensive collection includes striking station signage from every era, historic train driver and conductor uniforms, a model of a dispatch room from the 1950s, and all sorts of vintage curiosities like phone switchboards, train benches, signal boxes, and fire extinguishers from as early as the 1920s. Getting into the museum requires some luck, as opening hours are limited to only the second Saturday of every month from 10.30am–4pm (last entry 3pm). The space is entirely run by volunteers from a nonprofit dedicated to preserving U-Bahn artifacts which occasionally organizes rides on their collection of 32 historic train cars. Open this month on 13 October. T: 030.256 27171 or 0151 27665071. www.ag-berliner-u-bahn.de

©SDTB / Foto C. Kirchner

U-BAHN MUSEUM CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER TONY EVANS

Rail Tales

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

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Aktionszentrum, active from 1972-1982. To 8 Nov: Our Own FeminismS - A Queer-Feminist Futurelab. A lecture series exploring a future feminist utopia. To 31 Dec: Year of the Women*. Twelve months of programs, exhibitions, lectures, and transformation. To 5 Jan: 12 Moons. A yearlong program featuring films by feminist filmmakers and video artists. To 31 Jan: Spirits. The museum's café transforms into an interactive exhibition space for sharing. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

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Tränenpalast Site of German Division

Reichstagufer 17 10117 Berlin www.hdg.de

MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 30 Apr: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's garden Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and

emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 18 Nov: From Rembrandt's Workshop. Drawings from the Rembrandt School. Exploring the times when the works of the Dutch master were confused with those of his students. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. Free admission until 9 June. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance

When the border checkpoints of the Berlin Wall were opened on 9 November, 1989, nobody could have predicted what was to come next for the divided city. The decade that followed was one of the wildest, most tumultuous, thrilling, and also challenging periods for the city as it slowly transformed from a broken-down symbol of the Cold War into the capital of a reunited Germany. Explore the stories of this wild decade in the new Nineties Berlin exhibition, a multimedia experience implemented by the DDR Museum inside Mitte’s Alte Münze building. Themes such as art, subculture, and political transitions are explored with a combination of image, video, sound, and music, immersing visitors in the era of squat houses, social upheaval, underground clubs, and, of course, Berlin’s infamous techno scene. Video interviews from people instrumental to the fabric of the city, including a DJ, club owner, left-wing politician, and one of the founders of the Love Parade, help the stories of that era come alive. Open daily until February 2019. Molkenmarkt 2. T: 030 549082433. www.nineties.berlin.

The Wild Decade

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES elements with local features, such as mosaics of www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 allegorical figures. To 6 Jan: Gurlitt: Status Report. Examining the troubled history of works from Museum Barberini Potsdam Cornelius Gurlitt's collection. To 7 Jan: Restless Located in a reconstructed palace in the Times. Archaeology in Germany. Connecting the historic center of Potsdam, this museum earliest cultural interactions within Europe with houses the collection of founder and patron Germany. To 13 Jan: Lee Bul: Crash. The historical Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old and political evolution of South Korea told through Masters to contemporary art with a focus on the lens of art. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Her impressionism. With the Barberini App year-long residency explores states you can choose your own audio tour. between documentary and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary after 6pm; kids and students free). by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. Visit the Märkisches T: 0331 236014499. Off Map T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4 Museum for an overview

Mendelssohn Exhibit

of the city's 750 years of history.

Museum Berggruen

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for

A Jewish Enlightenment philosopher, a world-renowned composer, and generations of bankers made the history of the influential Mendelssohn family, whose members were persecuted as Jews despite having converted to Christianity. Daily noon–6pm. € free. www.mendelssohn-gesellschaft.de. Jägerstr. 51. T: 030.81704726. U Französische Straße. E3

Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Menschen Museum

Museum of Photography

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm.

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 18 Nov: Between Art & Fashion. Photographs from the collection of

Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. To 7 Oct: Artist Complex. Photographic Portraits from Baselitz to Warhol. Works from photographer Angelika Platen. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

OPEN HOU S E FOR OPEN MINDS.

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Unter den Linden 5, 10117 Berlin www.db-palaispopulaire.com

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Opened on 27/ 09/ 2018 A unique space that connects and excites: the PalaisPopulaire. Where art, culture and sports meet. Where people from all over the world enter into conversation. Look forward to extraordinary exhibitions and inspiring events.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES BUNDESKUNSTHALLE

AT GROPIUS BAU

Museum für Naturkunde

Auguste Rodin (1840–1917), Kauernde, ca. 1882, Kunstmuseum Bern, Legat Cornelius Gurlitt 2014, Foto: Albrecht Fuchs © Kunst- und Ausstellungshalle der Bundesrepublik Deutschland GmbH

Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

STATUS REPORT

GURLITT

An Art Dealer in Nazi Germany

14 September 2018 – 7 January 2019 in Berlin An Exhibition of the Bundeskunsthalle and the Kunstmuseum Bern

Zu Gast im Gropius Bau

Gropius Bau Niederkirchnerstraße 7 · D-10963 Berlin www.gropiusbau.de

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 7 Oct: Margiana. A Bronze Age Kingdom in Turkmenistan. Objects from the ancient kingdom, shown for the first time outside of Turkmenistan. To Sep 2019: The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum

and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854.U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 15 Oct: Loredana Nemes. Photographs 2008-2017. Exploring themes of barely-suppressed energy, on the brink of change. To 8 Apr: Julian Charrière. As We Used To Float. GASAG Art Prize 2018 recipient's multimedia installation on nuclear testing In the Pacific. Wed– Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 2 Dec: Back To The Future. The 19th Century in the 21st Century. Exploring the earliest photography techniques in the new millennium. To 2 Dec: Nicholas Nixon. Life Work. Capturing the Intimate passing of time and the experiences of being human. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www. co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the George Grosz was one the most important outcome of Germany’s Berlin artists of the 1920s, his works reflecting Dalí – The Exhibition early-20th-century the political and social issues of the time. The permanent exhibit archeology excavations. Starting on 18 October, the Bröhan-Museum features more than 400 The imposing Ishtar Gate (p. 42) presents George Grosz in Berlin, a works, most from private of Babylon with its glazed retrospective of the artist's life and work. collections, by the blue bricks Myletus, the Surrealist painter, with a reconstructed interiors focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans of an Assyrian world. To 14 Oct: Buildings that Fill explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and My Eye: The Architectural Heritage of Yemen. Sharing work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). the richness and splendor of Yemeni architecture €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll and geography. Altar room closed for restoration number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3 through 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

©ISTOCK

Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum

Berlin

The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. From 14 Oct: Bellini Plus. Research and Restoration. Restored works by the Bellini father-son painter duo. To 11 Nov: Images from the Thirty Year War. Woodcuts from the Kupferstichkabinett showing the fates of those affected by the devastating war. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

GEORGE GROSZ, COURTESY OF BRÖHAN MUSEUM.

The German Spy Museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Hamburger Bahnhof

Helmut Newton Foundation

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 12 Oct: PAINTER. MENTOR. MAGICIAN. Otto Mueller and His Network in Wrocław. Spotlighting the influence Mueller had as a teacher at the Wrocław Academy. From 27 Sep: Agnieszka Polska: The Demon's Brain. A sound and video installation of 15th century Poland. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 18 Nov: Between Art and Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-inchief of Italian Elle and Vogue. Tue–Sun 10am– 6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton. com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 2 Sep: Karin Sander - A Retrospective. A specially designed installation to celebrate the re-opening of the Haus am Waldsee. Open Tue– Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee

Collection. Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, time, and society in the fleeting moment. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. From 27 Sep: The world on paper. www.db-palaispopulaire.de. Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Commercial Galleries The former summer residence The Allied Museum in Galerie Kuchling, from 19 of artist Max Liebermann, coZehlendorf traces the Oct: Yamou: Scales of Life. Karlfounder and head of the German history of the Allied Marx-Allee 123, 10243 B, www. Secessionist movement. Before presence in Berlin. galerie-kuchling.de. Galerie Gilla being dismissed and banned by the Lörcher – Contemporary Art, to 19 Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted Oct: Capucine Vandebrouck: Solo show. around 200 works in this villa, some of Pohlstr. 73, 10785 B, www.galerie-loercher. which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm de. Galerie Art Cru Berlin, to 27 Oct: Betty Feix, Christo Lufundiso Luanza, Melanie Edwards, Peter (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www. Pankow: Chameleonic . Oranienburger Str. 27, 10117 liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. B, www.art-cru.de. Jarmuschek + Partner, to 27 T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map Oct: Carina Linge. Potsdamer Straße 81 A; 10785 B, me Collectors Room www.jarmuschek.de/de. Katharina Maria Raab, Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring to 31 Oct: Jonny Star, Die Tödliche Doris, Robert together other international art collectors and to Gschwantner: Carpets. Keithstr.5, 10787 B, www. organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The katharinamariaraab.com. JRGallery, to 31 Oct: various artists: American Editions . Goethestraße upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” to 1 81, 10623 B, www.jrgallery.de Apr: The Moment is Eternity - Works from the Olbricht

Treasure Island Built on a small island in the Spree River is a unique ensemble of five museums: the Altes Museum (1830), considered to be Schinkel’s neoclassical masterpiece; the Neues Museum (1859), housing Egyptian and prehistoric collections; the Alte Nationalgalerie (1876) for 19th-century German and European paintings; the Bode Museum (1904), renowned for its sculptures and Byzantine Art; and Alfred Mussel’s Pergamonmuseum (1930), housing artifacts from German excavations in Pergamon and Asia Minor. Illustrating the evolution of modern museum design and displaying 6000 years of human artistic endeavor, Museum Island was deservedly awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status in 1999. Lustgarten 1, Bodestr. 1 & 3, Monbijoustr. 3, Am Kupfergraben 5. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from above: the interior of Grill Royal, oysters, Colette.

Shellfish Season A popular adage advises to eat shellfish only during months with an "R." Luckily, that puts us squarely back in the season for slurping luxurious oysters and cracking open a lobster claw or two. Here’s where local gourmands go to get their fix of oysters, lobster, and more. If it’s that pure, straightforward oyster bar experience you seek, KaDeWe (Tauentzienstr. 21-24, www.kadewe.de) should be at the top of your list. The famed west-end department store (full name: Kaufhaus des Westens) houses an entire floor of gourmet delights, including a popular oyster bar that goes through around 7000 of the delicious molluscs each week. English, Scottish, and Irish oyster varieties are shucked before your eyes, plus deluxe French options like the Tsarsakaya, said to be a favorite of the Russian czars, and La Perle Noir, a rare treat from the Normandy coast. Pull up a stool at the bar and pair your plate of plump beauties with a flute of crisp champagne.

For a similar experience closer to the center of town, head to the lower level of Mitte's Galeries Lafayette (Französische Str. 23, www.galerieslafayette.de). The seafood counter in the French department store's gourmet section serves up a generous selection of French oysters, freshly caught lobster, sea urchin, and that famous seafood soup, bouillabaisse. Even Angela Merkel is said to be a regular. Tip: Check the Galeries Lafayette Facebook page this month for an announcement of the annual "Austern für Alle" (Oysters For All) promo event, offering deluxe oysters at bargain prices. For more of that irresistible French cuisine, book a table at Brasserie Colette (Passauer Str. 5-7, www.brasseriecolette.de), one of the most recent openings from local star chef and

restaurateur Tim Raue. Every meal at this modern brasserie should start with a half-dozen oysters, either the classic Fine de Claire of Brittany or the richer, plumper Gillardeau. Other oceanic delicacies include a beautiful rendition of bouillabaisse, richly flavored with shellfish and saffron, or tuna steak Niçoise style. It's not exclusively French, but Grill Royal (Friedrichstr. 105b, www.grillroyal.com) is nonetheless renowned as one of Berlin’s most buzzing high-end restaurants. As the name suggests, steak is a centerpiece of the menu, though luxurious seafood occupies a prime position as well. For all-out indulgence, spring for the two-person seafood platter overflowing with tiers of oysters, king crab leg, lobster and crab claws, shrimp, and more.

COLETTE, PHOTO BY NILS HASENAU; GRILL ROYAL: © STEFAN KORTE; OYSTERS: © ISTOCK.

Cooler weather means it's time to indulge in luscious oysters again. Hilda Hoy knows just the place.

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN India Club

On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw

from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and

Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kushinoya

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill.

Slurp! As the weather turns decidedly toward the chilly days of autumn, there's one food that always hits the spot: a deep bowl of piping-hot noodle soup. In other words, go for some Japanese ramen tonight and you won't regret it. Friedrichshain hotspot Hako Ramen quickly shot to the top of local noodle-lovers' lists after opening just one year ago, and their dedication to quality will be apparent with your first slurp of broth. Represented on the menu are all the ramen classics, from soy sauce shoyu broth to chicken-and-salt-based shio ramen to luscious, pork-bone tonkotsu broth. A sizeable variety of meat-free ramen options are sure to keep vegetarians and vegans happy, with broths that rely on seaweed, mushroom, or miso for that all-important umami kick. The noodles for every bowl are cooked to the proper toothsome consistency, then garnished with toppings like chashu roast pork, soft-boiled eggs, pickled greens and shredded mushrooms. Just remember, the Japanese believe that slurping one's noodles is a compliment to the chef and even makes the food taste better, so get ready to make some noise. Boxhagener Str. 26. www.facebook.com/HakoRamenBerlin

HAKO RAMEN, PHOTO BY HILDA HOY.

Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

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DINING

HOLD THE MEAT Hold From schnitzel to sausages, German cuisine is famed for its meat, so vegetarians and vegans could be forgiven for thinking they’d have a hard time eating well in Berlin. The truth, however, is that options abound here for meat-free eating, from fast food all the way to fine dining.

DÖNER

It seems like there’s a döner kebab stand on every corner. Thanks to Vöner (Boxhagener Str. 56, Friedrichshain), vegetarians needn’t feel left out. The flatbread comes stuffed with a 100%-vegan meat substitute instead of the usual veal or chicken.

FALAFEL

If döner kebab is the most popular street food in Berlin, falafel is a close runner-up. Dada Falafel (Linienstr. 132, Mitte) and The King of Falafel (Graefestr. 9, Kreuzberg) are two of the most popular joints in the city. Non-vegans should try the halloumi sandwiches as well, stuffed with fried slices of the tasty Cypriot cheese.

FAST RABBIT

©ISTOCK

Fresh wraps, soups, and addictive baked goods are on the menu at this all-vegan eatery, right across from Mauerpark (Eberswalder Str. 1, Prenzlauer Berg).

VIASKO

Homey vegan dishes like soy Bolognese

topped with walnut “parmesan” make both dinners and the weekend brunch buffet equally popular at this vegan restaurant. (Erkelenzdamm 49, Kreuzberg. www.viasko.de).

KOPPS

Taking on the challenge of creating German cuisine without meat, Kopps also incorporates Mediterranean influences into its organicfocused vegetarian menu. (Linienstr. 94, Mitte. www.kopps-berlin.de)

LUCKY LEEK

– Refined-yet-affordable vegan dining is the focus here, with a menu that changes regularly to incorporate seasonal ingredients. Melon-rosehip sorbet or wasabipea risotto, anyone? (Kollwitzstr. 54, Prenzlauer Berg. www.lucky-leek.de)

COOKIES CREAM – Likely

Berlin’s most hyped veg. hotspot, chic-trendy Cookies Cream (Behrenstr. 55, Mitte. www. cookiescream.com) combines meatless dining and clubbing. Downstairs is the Cookies Club; upstairs is the much-lauded vegetarian cuisine of chef Stephan Hentschel. www.wheretraveler.com 51

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DINING tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €.

www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Servus Bavaria! Delicious bavarian food and drinks like pork knuckle, wiener schnitzel and fresh munich beer.

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DINING Maximilians

Restaurantschiff Capt'n Schillow

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy

German. Climb aboard this quaint boat restaurant

Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

at the western edge of Tiergarten to enjoy classic German fish delicacies like cured herring, grilled pike perch fillets, and North Sea shrimp, plus a relaxing brunch menu on weekends. Book in advance to take a chartered cruise through the surrounding waterways. €€. Daily L&D, breakfast Sat & Sun. Closed Mon–Tue Oct–Dec. www.capt-schillow.de. Str. des 17. Juni 113, next to Charlottenburger Tor. T: 030.31505015. S Tiergarten. C3

Nante Eck

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European.

German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. C5

www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon–Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Overlooking the canal on the Berliner Weisse is a pale Walid southern edge of Museum Island, ale brewed only in the German. Contemporary, paredthis elegant-casual restaurant is a capital and usually down, and top-quality renditions of favorite of many local gastronomes. served with a shot classic German dishes, from schnitzel The highlight is the huge, upright of syrup. to asparagus soup to Könisberger flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, Klopse meatballs. The compact menu pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to changes seasonally to take advantage of the perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed best produce available from the region. €€. Tue– salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. Sat D.www.walid-speisemeisterei.de. Wichertstr. www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. 55. T: 030.40045755. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1 T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior

reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D.

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

Köpenicker Str. 16/17 | Kreuzberg | +49 [0] 30 319 88 18 60

Restaurant & Club

rom 7pm f y a d r u t a y to S Wednesda

www.spindlerklatt.berlin www.wheretraveler.com 53

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ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

Mama Trattoria Italian. Healthful Italian food made with the best Italian ingredients and, whenever possible, with local produce. Many of the ingredients used, such as the beef and the pastas, are organic, and gluten-free options are available too. Order a pizza and salad, or just stop by for one of their delicious desserts. €/ €€. www.mama.eu. Pariser Platz 6a. T: 030.467260981. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 15.00 CET 19.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 19.00 - 23.00 CET

OTHER Grand Rocka

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030/ 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Rio Grande International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. MayAyim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. U Schlesisches Tor.

Vivolo Olé

Modern Hellenic dishes

Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Z Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN ©ISTOCK

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Berlin

Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836. U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

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DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE, PHOTO BY IKO FREESE/DRAMA.BERLIN.DE; LE NOZZE DI FIGARO © HERMANN AND CLÄRCHEN BAUS; PAPAGENO, DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE, PHOTO BY MONIKA RITTERSHAUS; STAATSOPER INTERIOR: COURTESY OF STAATSOPER.

THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

Clockwise from this photo: Barrie Kosky’s animated Die Zauberflöte at the Komische Oper; Le Nozze di Figaro at the Deutsche Oper; The restored interior of the Staatsoper. Inset, below: Die Zauberflöte at the Staatsoper.

A Night At The Opera With three very different opera houses, Berlin has a show for every taste, Hilda Hoy says. Berlin’s club scene may get more attention in the international media, but let’s not forget this is a city where the high culture thrives as much as the subculture. With no fewer than three opera houses that attract world-renowned musicians and performers, there’s always something on to make a night at the opera very worth your while. The largest of the three houses is the Deutsche Oper (Bismarckstr. 35, www. deutscheoperberlin.de), destroyed by WWII bombing and reopened only in 1961 with a sober contemporary design that also promises great acoustics. The opera house remains dedicated to upholding the legacy of the 19th century’s opera greats, with works by Strauss, Wagner, Puccini, and Verdi making regular appearances on the program. This month, for example, visitors can choose from a performance of Wagner’s dramatic opera Tristan und Isolde on 3 October, or a moving rendition of Verdi’s sublime and dramatic Messa da Requiem (18, 24, 30 October), a choral and orchestral performance of a Catholic funeral

mass – goosebumps guaranteed. The Deutsche Oper is also the home venue for the Berlin Staatsballett, who will perform Tchaikovsky’s famously beautiful Swan Lake there throughout the month. The Komische Oper first opened in 1892 as a variety theater with operettas that relied on comedy and crowd-pleasing song and dance to fill the seats. It wasn’t until after WWII and the division of the capital that the site was transformed into an opera house for the citizens of East Berlin. In recent years, under the direction of Barrie Kosky, the Komische Oper repertoire has thrived with a focus on bringing back those playful, forgotten operettas from yesteryear, as well as contemporary, boundarypushing shows that make opera accessible to the masses. Experience the Kosky touch in his famed interpretation of The Magic Flute (Die Zauberflöte), which relies on

animated light projections to create Mozart’s world of fairy-tale magic (19, 21, 30 October). With a history reaching back to 1742, the Staatsoper (Unter den Linden 7, www. staatsoper-berlin.de) has the deepest roots of the city’s three opera houses, though its story includes numerous periods of destruction by fire and wartime bombings, followed by decades of isolation behind the Berlin Wall. Just reopened last year after years-long renovations, the refurbished Staatsoper is newly optimized for acoustics, with a new passion for highlighting the wide spectrum of what opera can offer. Mozart’s lighthearted comic opera Le Nozze di Figaro (The Marriage of Figaro) is on the program all month, as well as the less widely performed Medea by Italian composer by Luigi Cherubini, with striking and expressive arias telling the story of the mythological Greek sorceress seeking her bloody revenge. www.wheretraveler.com 55

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ENTERTAINMENT

ON THIS MONTH ROCK, POP, JAZZ PROCOL HARUM 16 Oct, Admiralspalast

THE ORIGINAL GYPSIES 10 Oct, Tempodrom

DITA VON TEESE 15 Oct, Admiralspalast

BALLET & CLASSICAL ONEGIN 19 Oct, Staatsoper

DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE 19, 21, 30 Oct, Komische Oper

One of the most popular events on Berlin’s cultural calendar takes place at the most unlikely time: Tuesday at 1pm, not exactly primetime music hour. Nonetheless, you’ll want to make time for the Philharmonie’s weekly Lunch Concert, a free, open-to-all event designed to make top-notch music accessible to every kind of audience. The 40- to 50-minute performances in the building’s luminous foyer feature musicians from the in-house Philharmonic, from other Berlin orchestras, and students at the city’s music academies, playing compositions both classic and contemporary. The available chairs fill up quickly, but the foyer accommodates plenty of music lovers on the mezzanine stairways and balconies or simply on the floor. Light meals and snacks are available, or simply sate yourself on the enchanting music. Entrance to the Lunch Concerts is capped at 1500, so get there early to avoid disappointment. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030 254880. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de

THEATER & MUSICALS ANATEVKA 7, 26 Oct, Komische Oper

BLUE MAN GROUP All month, Bluemax Theater

VIVID, GRAND SHOW All month, Friedrichstadt-Palast

CIRCA’S PEEPSHOW All month, Chamäleon Theater

Circa's Peepshow

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 3 Oct: Tristan und Isolde (Wagner). 4 Oct: Tosca (Puccini). 5, 10, 13, 19 Oct: Wozzeck (Berg). 12, 17, 20 Oct: Faustus Verdamnis (Berlioz). 18, 24, 30 Oct: Messa da Requiem (Verdi). 25, 27 Oct: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 28 Oct: Lohengrin (Wagner). 31 Oct: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 3, 11 Oct: Blaubart (Offenbach). 6, 14, 31 Oct: Die tote Stadt (Korngold). 7, 26 Oct: Anatevka (Bock). 19 Oct: Die Liebe zu drei Orangen (Prokofiev). 19, 21, 30 Oct: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 28 Oct: Die Zauberer von Oz (Valtinoni). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrenstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 3, 6 Oct: Der Freischutz (C.M. von Weber). 5, 14 Oct: Die Frau ohne Schatten (Strauss). 7, 12, 17, 20, 25, 28 Oct: Medea (Cherubini). 13, 18, 21, 26 Oct: Le Nozze di Figaro (Mozart). 19 Oct: Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 27, 31 Oct: Trovatore (Verdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 6, 7, 11, 14, 21, 26 Oct: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky). www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents

LUNCHKONZERT CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER DEUTSCHE BANK, PHOTO PETER ADAMIK; CIRCA’S PEEPSHOW: © PEDRO GREIG.

A Free Music Matinee

QUATOUR AROD 2 Oct, Kammermusiksaal

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hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 2 Oct: Quatour Arod play music by Haydn, Attahir, Zemlinski. 10 Oct: The Akademie für Alte Musik performs Bach. 25 Oct: Chorus MusicAeterna www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 18–20 Oct: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Foster) performs Brahms, Schubert, Liszt. 21 Oct: Verdi's Messa da Requiem. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 4–6 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Oramo) perform Grieg, Dean, Sibelius. 11–13 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Hrusa) perform Dvorak, Martinu, Janacek. 18–20 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Järvi) perform Brahms. 22–26 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Dudamel) perform Mahler. 31 Oct– 2 Nov: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Dudamel) perform Bernstein and Shostakovich. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) The evening is hosted by:

Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts

Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

22.08. – 11.11. 14.11. – 25.11. 28.11. – 09.12. 12.12. – 13.01. 16.01. – 20.01. 23.01. – 24.02.

Director: Rodrigue Funke

www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

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ENTERTAINMENT to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

Sophiensaele

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz

Lights... Camera... Berlin! A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

A-Trane

Arena The enormous former bus depot

now presents events as diverse as During his Berlin stay in 1970, David Bowie shared rap concerts and roller derby and his Hauptstraße 157 features a cocktail lounge and the apartment Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool with Iggy Pop. floating on the Spree River.

Cinestar Sony Center

www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club

The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Odeon

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

When Music Meets Comedy Carrington-Brown are Rebecca Carrington and Colin Brown. Creators of comedy music shows, the duo is back again, teaming up with the Swonderful Orchestra for a new show that fuses British humor, visual hilarity, and absurdly creative musicianship. The show takes a select few music styles – opera, baroque, jazz, film soundtracks, and pop music – to craft a new unforgettable, award-winning experience. Catch Comedy Meets Classics on 21 October at Tipi am Kanzleramt! Große Querallee. 030.39066550. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.

CARRINGTON BROWN: © JONNY SOARES. FILM SLATE: © ISTOCK.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

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Havanna

Blue Man Group

The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5 A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Chamäleon Variete

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 10 Oct: The Original Gypsies. 31 Oct: Leningrad. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 15 Oct: Dita von Teese. 16 Oct: Procol Harum. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Circa's Peepshow. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. From 27 Sep: VIVID Grand Show. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. With English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131-133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße. Off map.

Discover Europe’s

capital of nightlife

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 21 Oct: Carrington Brown feat. The Swonderful Orchestra Cabaret. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3 ©ISTOCK

Lido

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Staunen, Circus of Stars. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

When Wine Gets Naked Neukölln nurtures the "natural" when it comes to drinking, says Joe Stange. This is a cosmopolitan European capital, so there is plenty of wine to be found. It flows as freely in upscale restaurants and leafy beer gardens as it does in the sort of unpretentious, atmospheric bars at which this city seems to excel. This might explain why “natural wine” appears be taking off in Berlin, and particularly in the Neukölln area. It fits neatly with the local sense of bohemian chic, adorned with feel-good words like organic, biodynamic, and non-industrial. There is no set definition for natural wine, leading some to dismiss it as marketing tosh. The famous critic Robert Parker called it “one of the major scams” inflicted on wine drinkers. Upon closer look, however, it’s hard to see what the fuss is about. If there is a common thread it is the avoidance of industrial tricks and chemical manipulation.

Like organic food, it is simply another choice on the table. What makes it “natural” depends on the individual producer. It is usually organic. Some are also biodynamic, with grapes farmed in low-tech, old-fashioned ways that are borderline superstitious. There should be virtually no additives; some use scant amounts of sulfur dioxide, to avoid spoilage, in amounts dwarfed by industrial wine producers. Some of the producers even allow the ambient yeast — whatever is on the grapes — to handle the fermentation. The result is not always great, of course, but it is often unusual. This is a welcome change when much of the wine found on supermarket shelves or standard restaurant lists can taste remarkably similar. Four spots that proudly specialize in natural wine can be found in Neukölln, all within

walking distance of each other around the Rathaus Neukölln U-Bahn station. Jaja (Weichelstr. 7, www.jajaberlin.com) is both a bar and a shop. Over here they call it “naked wine,” with about 300 mostly French bottles and a Mediterranean-leaning range of plates for sharing at €10 or less. Two blocks away is La Malo (Flughafenstr. 25, www.la-malo.de), formerly known as Papilles, a casual, chef-run French bistro with a new Mediterraneaninfluenced menu and emphasis on natural wines. They also organize monthly tastings. Café and shop Motif (Weserstr. 189 www.motifwein. de) specializies in natural wines whose origins are as eclectic as the wide range of live musical acts. Naturales (Friedelstr. 30) is a friendly neighborhood spot with a widening range of Spanish-led natural wines, accompanied (naturally) by tapas. Wine crawl, anyone?

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BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CLUBS Traffic Club A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com. Alexanderstr. 7. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical.

www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3-10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. Savignyplatz. C4

Prater (www.pratergarten.de) in Prenzlauer Berg is the oldest beer garden in town. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

€

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables. Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends. In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”). Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip

from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Public Transport

62 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2018

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ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI The rumors are true – Uber is banned in Berlin. Hail a ride using the My Taxi app instead, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

www.wheretraveler.com 63

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16/08/2018 09:30

WHERE NOW | SVENJA VON REICHENBACH

SVENJA VON REICHENBACH HEAD OF PALAISPOPULAIRE The longtime director of the former Deutsche Bank KunstHalle, Svenja von Reichenbach recently oversaw the KunstHalle’s evolution into the new PalaisPopulaire. Just opened last month in the Prinzessinnenpalais, the PalaisPopulaire is a multifaceted gallery and cultural forum that promises to enrich the creative landscape of the city. www.db-palaispopulaire.de

What can visitors expect at the PalaisPopulaire, the new successor to the Deutsche Bank KunstHalle? An open house that offers an exciting mix of art, culture, and sports. We will present exhibitions from our corporate collection and the Tate Britain, winners of the German Book Prize will be reading, and the stars of the Berlin parkour scene will give workshops. We address everyone – including those who haven't had contact with art and culture. What makes the Prinzessinnenpalais building a unique place? The contrast between tradition and modernity. It was the residence of the Prussian princesses, then bombed during WWII. In the 1960s the palace was reconstructed as an opera café by Richard Paulick, former assistant to Walter Gropius. The facade is classicist, but the interior is a modern concrete structure. Kuehn Malvezzi, the renowned architectural studio, has now transformed it into a minimalist, yet spectacular stage for contemporary culture. Will the new PalaisPopulaire take a different direction than before? The program is even more diversified – from parkour workshops to tours on the young

Beuys and his love for anthroposophy and alchemy. With more than 300 works from the Deutsche Bank Collection, the opening exhibition The World of Paper shows how the medium inspires the global art scene. A highlight is Objects of Wonder, the upcoming sculpture exhibition organized by the Tate in London, which features fantastic British artists ranging from Barbara Hepworth to Anish Kapoor to Tracey Emin and Helen Marten. You've been a gallery director in Berlin for many years. Has the art scene evolved? Berlin is still one of the most inspiring cities in the world for artists and offers a lot of creative freedom. But the extinction of the small- and medium-sized galleries reveals how much the art scene has become commercialized. I consider this a major challenge for institutions such as the PalaisPopulaire: to provide a forum for upcoming positions and continue to make discoveries possible – independent from market interests. Besides the PalaisPopulaire, what other galleries would you recommend? The Schinkel Pavillon is a great exhibition space just around the corner from the PalaisPopulaire. I loved the Louise Bourgeois show! C/O Berlin is a must, not only because

it is the venue for photography and visual media, but also because of the delicate ‘50s architecture of the building. Imagine you had the entire day off. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? My perfect day starts with breakfast & newspapers at legendary Café Einstein Stammhaus. I love the mix of Berlin gruffness and Viennese charm. Then to Deco Arts on Motzstraße, a shop for vintage furniture & design, including rare pieces by Marcel Breuer. Now it's off to Marga Schöller Bücherstube, an old-school bookstore with the best customer service and range of English books. Then a trip to the delightfully landscaped grounds of the Pfaueninsel. The evening would draw me to Radialsystem, the best place for contemporary dance.

Clockwise from top left: The bookstore at C/O Berlin; Svenja von Reichenbach; Pfaueninsel; Café Einstein Stammhaus; one of the works in PalaisPopulaire's new show; the PalaisPopulaire.

RAVEEN, FROM THE SERIES DELUXE, 2004/05 © 2018 ELLEN GALLAGHER. COURTESY THE ARTIST, HAUSER AND WIRTH; PALAIS POPULAIRE © MATHIAS SCHORMANN; SVENJA VON REICHENBACH, ©CHRISTOPH NEUMANN; C/O BERLIN BOOKSHOP, COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN; CAFE EINSTEIN STAMMHAUS: COURTESY OF CAFE EINSTEIN STAMMHAUS ©BERND BRUDERT; PFAUENINSEL: © ISTOCK.

My Berlin

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2018

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13/09/2018 10:05

VISIT THE 8TH GERMAN RUM FESTIVAL, THE WORLD‘S LARGEST RUM FESTIVAL. 13 October 2018 12 until 9:00 pm

14 October 2018 12 until 7:00 pm

Location: STATION-Berlin Luckenwalder Str. 4-6 10963 Berlin – Kreuzberg

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SHARE YOUR PASSION www.germanrumfestival.com

07/09/2018 10:44

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