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Arsenale
SALUTE
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
FON
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
PIETR
VIDA
SAN
LA
RUGA VECCHIA
DE
EL
DEI
CALLE
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
INA
AR
ETO
CALLE DEL DOSE
CAGNOL
San Martino
MOROS
FONDAMENTA
RE
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
EMB
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
A
E IV NOV
DE CALLE
CROSER
VIAL
Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
Rio d el Giardini
delle
PISCINA
DE
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Canale
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
L’ARSENAL
DE
SALIZADA
DE
CALLE
S C H I AV
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
FONDAMEN
ANTONIN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora R I VA D EGLI
Arsenale di Venezia
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
LO
Fondam
CALLE
CALLE DEI
SAN
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
PESCARIA
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
Nuove
L’ANZO
MARTIN SAN
DEL
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
MAGNO CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
SALIZADA
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
DEGLI
GRECI
San Giorgio dei Greci
FONDAMENTA
C. PIANTON
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
CASTELLO NUOVE
CASTELLO
DONA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
O
SESTIERE
CASE
CALLE
CALLE
enta
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
Rio de San Gerolamo
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE DELLE GATE CALLE LION
TA CELESTIA
CORTE SACCA
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DEI PRETI
FONDAMEN CALLE
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE DEL FORNO
CASTELLO
GIUSTINA
CAPPUCCINE
SANTA
CALLE
CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE
CALLE CAVALLI
FONDAMENTA
PIETA’
DEL TE DEUM
MURAZZO CALLE
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
DELLA
DELLA
CALLE SALIZADA
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CALLE
CAPPELLO
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
CALLE DEL FO
RAMO
SAN
SALIZADA
CALLE ZORZI
C. DE LA MADONETA
DOSE DEL CALLE
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
DE L’OSMARIN
R I VA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE SAN LORENZO
C. VOLTO
RC
LE VIGNOLE
Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice- Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com.
CALLE CALLE
STELLA
SQUERO
CALLE
DEL
ANTI
CALLE
canti
MENDIC
ONIO
AL
DEI
Mendi
BANDI
M
Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.
Rio
DE D LA PIETA’
NI DEI
CALLE
dei
CALLE CALL DE L MAGAZEN
CORDO COR C ORD D
A
A ALVISOPOLI LVI LV ISO PO LI
ENTA
TESTA LA
Rio
Dei
C.SANT’ANT
RZ
FONDAM
CALLE
NAVE
IOL
VOLTO
LA
ISO
DE
DEL
FRUTAR
C.
PARAD DEL
DEL
CALLE
C.
CALLE
TONIO
SANT’AN CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
CALLE
ZORZI
CORONA
BALBI
A
San Lorenzo
DELLA
ZULIAN
OS
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
A N M
LEONARDO
SAN
GA
DE CALLE
O
BRESSANA
CALLE VERROCCHI DEL
VENIERA
CALLE
CALLE
FORNO
DEL CALLE
PISCINA
DEL CAFETIER
C.
ALBANESI
2
A O S
LA SACRESTIA
CALLE RIMPETTO
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
1
CALLE DE LE RASSE
SAN
CALLE
C. CORONA
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
CALLE DEL
DEL CALLE
C A’ S AV I O
FAUSTA
O
FOSCARINI CALLE
APOSTOLI SANTI RIO TERRÀ
C.
CA’
I
BOTER
BO
DEI
LA
DEL
CALLE
DONZEL
CALLE
C.
L’ANZOLO DE
MATTIA
NI
CALLE
SAN
L’ARCO
GIOVAN
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
CALLE
DE
SAN IA
CALLE
VECCH
RUGA
SALIZADA
EI BOMBAS
APRILE II
CALLE
IA MERCER
STAGNERI
C. DEI
LOVO
BALOTE LE DE CALLE
P.
OR
ELLO
CALLE DEI FUSERI
M
O
CALLE
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
A
A.
CALLE
E CORT
MASENA LA DE
ia
AN
CALLE
ord
INA
TREVIS
O
DE
CATER
CALLE
MisL’ABAZIA eric
la
CAMP
SANTA A
del
LUNG
ale
RDIA
CALLE
RICO
Can
. MISE FOND
ETA RACH LA
E
DE
FELIC
CALLE
SAN AMEN AM
TA
I
FOND
ZZ PO
Dolce
PRIUL R IULI I
NO
DO
FOOR
Ca’
GA
CALLE
DEL
RU
Rio
VELE
ETO
LE
CALLE
DE
TRAGH
DEL
CALLE
PISTOR
I
DEL
VERD
D’ORO
CALLE
SALIZADA
SOFIA
C.
SANTA
EGIO
CAMPO
CANNAR
NIEL CAMPA DEL
LA
VI
ED
CAST
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
A
DI
DEL PIOVAN
DA PONTE
J.
FONDAMENTA
DOGE
I
IERE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
O REMEDI
LARGA
CALLE
CALLE BOSELLO
DEL
BB
BASTION
CALLE
VI
A
SCUDI
DEL SABION
GO
Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
DEL
CORTE
E
Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
Lido S. Nicolo'
SANT’ELENA
E
DEGLI
CALLE ZUCCHERO
Sant'Elena SANT'ELENA
VIALE
BR
CALLE
SAN GIACOMO
LL
E
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
O
M
CALLE
CALLE
A
AR
VE
FONDAM DEL ENTA CRISTO
O CAPITEL
LARGA ROSA DEL CALLE
REGINA
CALLE
DE
CALLE
STUA LA DE ENTA
FONDAM
GHE HIO TTO
ROSA
CALLE
QUERIN,
CALLE
CALLE
RÀ
E VECC
ETTI,
TI,
FA R S
ET RS FA
RIO T ERÀ
TE RIO
COLOMBINA
FONTEGO
MEGIO CALLE
ADA
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
SALITA
DEL
STAE
FORNO
SAN
DEL
ADA
CALLE
LARGA
SALIZ
CALLE
GRUE LE
INATI
DE TA
CARM
AMEN
SALIZ
FOND
DO SECON
CRISTO
TERA’
DEL
RIO
CALLE
GN
RN
NO
SEST
I
ZU
CA
GATE
ALBANES
E
IV
DRASI
LIPOLI
LL
E
TO
DE LE
DEI
C.
CA
AL
NE
CALLE
STRETA
TT
O
TTO
VI
VE
SALIZADA
CALLE
INO
CALLE ERIZZO
CALLE
IO
O
DORSODURO
OR
FERRUCCIO
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SEVERO
CORTE NUOVA
NTA LATERANO
SAN
SESTIERE
CH
ALE
TT
PR
DE LE TOLE
FONDAME GIOVANNI
TA
FOSCARI
NER
VI
CORTE NOVA FONDAMEN
CALLE
GE
E
CI
SAN
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
Rio San Lorenzo
ORBI
AL
SAN SERVOLO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
MEZO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
DEI
LLE
N
VIA
R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O
CALLE
SO
TI
MUNEG
MA
R AT
LE
E
BU
GIUSTIN
LL
IA
O
EUFEM
ER
TR
BEATA
ND
PIE
CALLE
FO
VIA
ETTI
A
GALLIPOLI
SANGIANTOFF
LL
VIA
FONDAMENTA
DE
MOCENIGO
INI
E
L.
NANI
LL
VIA
O
CA
V I A L E PA N T O
NTA
JUNGHANS
FOSCAR
CAMPO
VENIER
CA
Teatro Verde
VI
CA
LO
FONDAME
E
E
AN
RO
GE
TERRÀ
UE
AN
SQ
EL
PISCINA
RT
CH
RIO
GR
MI
SANT'AGNESE
LL
TE
MA
DI
MO
E
RA
OSPIZIO
E
LL
BRAGADIN
O
CA
TA
MP
E
LL
CALLE
LL
CA
SANT'ELENA
PISCINA
XXIV M AGGI
CALLE MONTE PA S U B I O
SO
NO
FONDAMEN
CAR
I
INCURABILI
VIALE
C. D EL
TI
CALLE
MO
SANT'ANTONIO
United States Pavilion
Japan Pavilion
SANT'ELENA
MAGGIORE
C
DELL'OLIO
LE
PE
ISEPO
PALUDO
SAN GIORGIO
I
BO
FERRANDO
N
LI
CALLE
N
SA
VA
BB
IO
E
G
NT
ZI
TA
CA
O
CA
FONDAMENTA
N
O
SA
U I P
TA
M
EN
IN
M
C.
DA
VIALE PIAVE
N
RD
DE LE ERBE
SAN
TERÀ
CALLE
IA
LUNGO
US
GI
N
Russia Pavilion
G
STRETTA
SA
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
E
CALLE
EN
AL
PONTE
AM
Giardini
VI
go
FORNACE
SALONI
CALLE
TERRÀ
FIANCO
RIO
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
te Lun
CENETTE
PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA
ALDI
CALLE
LL
GE
FONDAMENTA
DE
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
EP
O
IE
AN
Pon
O
Chiesa S. Erasmo
VIA
LA CERTOSA Basilica di San Pietro di Castello
IST
EN
Parco delle Rimembranze
MP
EL
ERBE
GIUSEPPE
LLA
AM
CA
CH
LE
O
SAN
CE
E
Punta della Dogana
MI
DE
GN
ROSA
SALAMON
A
R L C
BARBARIA
DE CALLE
San Giovanni Novo
Palazzo Ducale
E
del
MA
CALLE
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
RIN
DE
ND
PALUDO
LL
OSPIZIO
JUNGHAN
CALLE
LIO
SANT’ERASMO
MA
ION
ARIB PPE G
FO
RIO
CA
E
Spirito Santo
SAN GI ACOM
Rio
E C E
ST
L
CALLE
CALLE
C.
IAN
CO
BB
ROCCO
LL
CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE
BA
N
CALLE TERCO
RE
SAN
SA
Vergini
SANT'ANNA
SA
CALLE
N TA
Giardino delle Vergini de le
SE
RI
C.
NOBILI
CA
E N TA S E
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN F O N D A M E N TA
GIUSE
DEI
AM
AME
M
I
ANCO
TI
SARES
AR
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
ND
E
NOV
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
DEL
O
LL
GRANDE
DA
E N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
M
VIALE
E
CALLE
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
TT
CALLE
I S E
CALLE
OC
DEGLI
CA
MIA
FON
LE
San Francesco di Paola
COPPO
CR
CALLE
CORTE
ENA
BALD
SCHIAVONA
DE
CALLE CORERA
FORNACE
SALONI
ACCADE
GARI
EPPE CALLE
VA
C A L L E C ATA PA N
TA
Santa Croce
SCHIAVONI RIVA
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
13
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
TERRÀ
CALLE
ARS
ALE
FONDAM
IUS VIA G
CALLE
DEI PUTI
TRAGHETTO
HE
ERTITE
CALL
CONV CALLE
N CAMI
LO
DEL
E N TA
TA A R SEN
LA TANA
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
EN
CROCE
Salute
CATECUMENI
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
RAMO DE
DELFINA
RIEL
AMEN
TANA
GRIMANI
Moise
E
IO
LE VIGNOLE
FOND
DE LA
C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P O L O
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
CALL
G
Faro di Murano
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
CALLE
RO
VIDA
CALLE
MARTIRI
SAN
San
CALLE DEL
PESA
LA
NUOVA
RIDOTTO
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
E
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
DEI PRETI
TREDICI
Rio
MEZZO
SA
Rio
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
DEI FORNI
COLTRERA
DI
ES
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
RIELO
CALLE
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
VALLARESSO
LORENZO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
BR
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
Arsenale
CALLE
DRIO
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
CALLE FRIZIER
CALLE
DE CALLE
CROSERA
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
C. LOREDANA
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
DONA
L’ANZOLO
PISCINA
DE
CALLE
AM
DELLA
Santa Maria del Pianto
VIN CALLE DEL
FONDAMENTA
LE
NUOVE
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE DE
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
CROSERA
CALLE
C. SAN
e
SARTOR
ND
VI
A
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
FRUTARIOLI
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
RC
ASCENSIONE
MARTIRI
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
CALLE
DEI CORTELLOTTI
AL
O
CASTELLO CASE
CELESTIA
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
SAN
DE
SALIZADA
ISOLA DI
FO
CALLE
ENT
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
CALLE
L MO
VALLARESSO
CALLE
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
A ROTONDA
LI
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA CALLE DELLA
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE
100 m
S. Giorgio
FO
Redentore
MALAMOCCO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
ETTO
DE
IE
CAR
BEC
LLEE
DE
CALL CA LLE E
RIA CERE LA DE E CALL
O
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
ANTONIN
S C H I AV
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
FO
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
O
DAM
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
Basilica di San Marco
Museo Correr
CALLE
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
FONDAMENT
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SAN
CALLE
E
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
CASTELLO
CALL
SAN
SALIZADA
SALIZADA
SALUTE
Punta della Dogana
DI
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
CATECUMENI
PIETRO
LARGA
C. DE
RIO TERRÀ
SAN
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
CALLE
CALL
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
RI FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
San Gregorio
RUGA VECCHIA
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
IA
L’
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
C. VOLTO
LUC
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
VONI
O
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
ROSSA
VERONA
nd Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
LA
MINELLI
TA
DE
SAN
C.
LO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
Santa Maria della Pietà
VIN CALLE DEL
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
ENTA
EL
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
DEL PIOVAN
PESTRIN
RAGUSEI
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
DEL
FONDAMENTA
DEL
Palazzo
C.
PISCINA
VERONA
CROSERA
CALLE
LA
CALLE
DAM
DEI PRETI
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
DEGLI
FONDAMENTA
DE
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
C.
DEI
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
MANDOLA
Rio Del
AVVOCATI
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
TERÀ
DEL
RIO
CALLE
PICCO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
CALLE
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
CALLE BOSELLO
C.
C. DE LE COLONNE
CALLE
DELL’OROLOGIO
CAZZIOLA
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
MARZARIA
REDIVO
DEI
CALLE GOLDONI
TRAGHETTO
CALLE
FON
LATERANO
ZORZI SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
BASTION
CALLE
DEL
SIMON
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
SCUDI
RC
DEL
CALLE
A N M
DEGLI
SA
SCHIAVONI RIVA
CALLE
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
LO
CALLE
GRIMANI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CAVALLI
CARBON
Salvador
CALLE
CALLE
DEL
CORNER
San
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
MO
MEZO
GIUFFA
CALLE
CALLE
Rio
CASSELERIA
SAN
DE CALLE
SEVERO
CORTE NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
GATE
MENTA
BARBARIA
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
RUGA
FONDA
D
Santa Maria del Pianto
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
BANDE
CORTE
DEL
SAN
CALLE
RC
SAN
F. CONDULMER
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
DRASI
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
CALLE
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
DE LE
BEMBO
IA
CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A
C LE
NOVE
FORNO
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
CALLE
CERER
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
DEL
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
LIO
LA
G. GALLINA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
SALIZADA
DE
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI
Rio San Lorenzo
MADONA
C.
LARGA
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
PIA
Museo Correr
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
SBIACCA
AL
TI
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
SAN
SAN
Rio Nuovo
DE LA
FORNO
CALLE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
SALIZADA
TABACCHI
RAMO
DEL
SEI
NOVE
BERLENDIS
VARISCO
CALLE
VENEZIA
BOTERI
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
Bacino Orseolo
CALLE ERIZZO
CALLE
DOLERA
NUOVA
RAGU
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
DEI
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
CORTE GRAGOLINA
GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
RIO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
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CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
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San Salvador
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la Fenice
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Teatro Carlo Goldoni
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CALLE ALBERO
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Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ZATTERE
FEM N TAthe accuracy of the information in this map, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. WHERE VENICE MAP - Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 174, 28 CALLE June 2016 - Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 - Direttore Responsabile: Andrea I A Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.where-venice.com. All rights reserved. Original Map: Urbanfile (www.urbanfile.org). Where Italia srl, via E. Biondi 1, 20154 Milano (Italy) © 2017. Whilst every care has been taken toEcheck AM CONVERT No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Printed by Lazzati Industria Grafica srl - Casorate Sempione (VA). WHERE® magazine and WHERE® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. ND
CALLE
EN
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
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Santa Maria DEI dei Miracoli MIRAC
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LACA
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FONDAMENTA
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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
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CAMPO SAN PANTALON
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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
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San Simeone Profeta
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CALLE DE LA CHIESA
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DE LA SACA
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MINOTTO
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CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
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DEI LAVRANERI
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CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
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San Moisè
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Angelo Raffaele
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CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
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Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000 - From abroad +39 041 42730892
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
TO
S
CALLE Correr, Museo Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo DELLA CHIESA Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo SAC C A Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and San Gerardo Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery Oriental AofNModern B Art I A+ G I O Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, CAMPIELLO Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. SAN GERARDO
DE
Ponte 8 dell'Accademia3 Gallerie dell'Accademia
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTO
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San Vidal
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
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EN
TE
NUOVE CASE CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI
TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
DE
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
PONTE
CCasa di Marco Polo
A
SALIZZA
IA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
AM
B AT
RIO
DEI
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
CALLE CHIESA
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
CAL
TERÀ
MARZAR
CALLE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
CROCE
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
DELLA
ISOLA DELLE ROSE
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
San Salvador
TEATRO
TA
Santa Maria di Nazareth
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’ SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
Fontego
MAZZINI
CORTE
CALLE
EN
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
CAVALLETTI
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
San Gerardo
VI
SARTORI RTORII RTOR
San Giovanni Grisostomo
LARGA
CALLE
AI
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
BIAGIO
VI
dei Tedeschi 10
Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
SACCA
S. Servolo
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
SAN SALVADOR
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
GR
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
Ponte di Rialto
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
DEL
SAN
Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia
San Giacomo di Rialto
Rialto
della
CARLO
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
NOVA
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
CAMPO DEI GESUITI ZEN
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
FO
SALIZADA
TEATRO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
GIOBBE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
CALLE PENITENTI
FOND.
CORTE DEL
"Villa Groggia" Monastero Carmelitane Scalze
IROLAMO SACCA SAN G
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CANNAREGIO
ENTA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
ER
FONDAMENTA
MENTA
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
B
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
FONDAM
NOVA
MULA DA RAMO
OLO
CALLE
LEO
LLE
VIA
Parco
LI
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
A
CALLE
Palazzo Fortuny
NARISI FOND.
SAMU
Palazzo Loredan
LONGO
Giudecca Hilton
DA
DELLA
FOSC
O E UG
PESCHERIA
LA
TERÀ
FOND.
FONDAMENTA
MURANO
DA QUIRIZIO CALLE
CALL
CA
EL
ISOLA
CATERIN
Santa Sofia
STRA
DE
TRAGHET
MUSEUM PASS
S.
LLE
CRISTO DEL CALLE
VIVARINI
Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
BERTOLINI CALLE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
TRONCHETTO
FONDAM
San Silvestro
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
CA
CAMPO SAN BERNARDO
CALLE
A. CALLE
CIPRIANO SAN
LE
People Mover Venezia
100 m
CALLE
San Beneto San Luca
11
Santa Maria degli Angeli
PARMENSE
CALLE
A
ITTICO
Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
Palazzo Grimani
de ran
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
AI GESUATI
A combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket: 24 euros.
DONZE
DEL
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
LA
CALLE
DA SALIZA
CARROZZ
al G
CRISTOFORO
SACCA
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO
VI
MERCATO
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
ELE
IA
E
LE
GNESE
ENTA
RAVANO
MURANO
TA’
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
VOLTI
S.Silvestro
DI SAN MARCO
VECCH
LEZZE
FONDAM
DEL
ER
VENEZIA
CATENE
CALLE
NI
RUGHETA
B
DIREZIONE
FONDA
CALLE
ETTO
CA’ CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
San Trovaso
I
CAMPIE DEL SANSOLLO
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
GIANMARIA
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENTA
LI
N U O VA I S O L A DEL TRONCHETTO
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
MUTI
Sant’Aponal DEL
FALIER
OGNISANT
C
DE
TRAGH
DE
CA’
BOTA
ANE
CALLE
LA
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE Parcheggio Bus Turistici
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
C.
DEL
CALLE RAMO
PONTE
LA
CARAMP
EL
NOVE
SANTA
GON
CALLE
FOND.
E AL
LE
ORTES CALLE
D
SERENELLA
TE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
CALLE
SESTIERE
S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
15
CALLE
ZATTER
L LA
LE
PORTO MARGHERA
AMEN
ENTA
PARAN
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
DE OGNISANTI
DE DE
DE
Accademia
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
OLIN
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Sant'Angelo
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CALLE BERNARDO
FODAM
ENTA
RIO
Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
DEI PUTI
TIAN
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
S. Basilio
TRAP
CAMPO SAN APONAL
Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba
CA
Cimitero Nuovo
A
BAROVIER
RAM
PERDON
DORSODURO
BESA BESAGIO
Burano
LA
San Tomà
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
L’AGNEL
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
The island of Burano is famous for its artisanal lace work and particular kind of biscuit. Don’t miss the Lace Museum.
DE
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
AR
COLORATA
San Felice
CAMPO SAN POLO
SC
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
STRADA
IN
CALLE
C.
CORTE DEL TEATRO
TER
CALLE
SEBAS SAN
SCALE
VIA
M E N TA
LLEO
Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
14
ISOLA DI TESSERA
MURANO ISOLA CAMPALTO
FOND
CALLE
RUGA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
SAN
DORSODURO
Torcello
DEL
M E N TA
O
DEL DESERTO
Parco San Giuliano
VI
San Cassiano
CALLE
DE VINCINI
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
FONDA
RC
100 m
SAN FRANCESCO
ARINI
IA
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
ZANE
MA
BURANO
CONT
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
VEND
CALLE
CALLE CA’BON
BOLDO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
O
DE
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
N
MA
DEL
TIOZZI
SA
FONDA
CIMITERO DEL
CALLE
IC
CALLE ALLE
SAN
R
L’ASEO
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
SALIZADA ALIZADA
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
SCOAZZERA DE LA
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
LE PAZIENZE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
I
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
C. DE
RIELO
LORENZO
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
T ENT MENTA DAMEN ONDAM ON FFONDA
C. SAN
LARDON
RIO TERA’
I
CALLE
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
CANAL RIO TERA’
DIAN
L' ARZERE
GUAR
DE
LEE CALL
NTA
Angelo Raffaele
CALLE
Carmin
Santa Maria dei Carmini
TINTO
CALLE
FOMO
DE
del
VIA
CIMITERO
ER
CA'
DEI
SANTA
DEL
IS
ENTA
TA
Santa Fosca
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
ROSINA
DELLA
STRADA
DI
FONDAMENTA
STRADA
M
FON
AMEN
NA
TORCELLO
Museo Di Torcello
Chiesa di Santa Fosca
100 m
CATERINA
TA
STRADA
Chiesa di Santa Caterina
ISOLA CARBONERA
TA
onna
Orto
EN
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
A
Rio
ALE
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
RA
RENIER
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
ROSS
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
BRIAT
TORCELLO
ISOLA
ISOLA
MAZZORBETTO
MAZZORBO
C A M PA LT O MESTRE
AMEN
Mad
dell'
AM
TRON
OR
CALLE
CROSE
CALLE
CALLE
i I TA AMEN
FOND FO
DD
CAMPO SAN STIN
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
NUOVO
I
FONDAME
TA
DE L’OGIO
DEL
RIO
CALLE CONTARINA
AMEN
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
D
DAM
CCHIO CCHI VECCHIO
CALLE
PRETI
N
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENT
C.
NA
FOND
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
MEZO
CA
NOVA
BARI
DEI
LE
DA
DEI
NI
CALLE
San Pantalon
MA
NIE
STRA
LARGA
TOLENTI
ON
BASEGO
LA
.DA
CALLE TRAGHETTO
C.
DEI
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSE
’ NICOLO SAN
I CALLE ORSETT
HI
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
C.
DE
TOMÀ
7
TTO
S 16A N M I C H E L E DEI LAGHI
FO
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
OCHE
TERÀ
SAN
6
ia
À D E
La Maddalena
L’ISOLA
CALLE
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
TINTORE
icord
CALLE
OCHE
LATT
CALLE
Miser
FO de Servi N
IA
NA
ASC
DEI
MADONA
DE
DE LA VIDA
C.VENZA
LA
RIA
PANTAL
della
TER
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
SE
GAM
LA
FOND
SANTA
TERA’
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
CALLE ORSETTI
TO
DE
LACA
FONDA
te
Rio dei Tolentini
Rio
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
A E M
BER
HIO
DEI
LA
San Rocco
Mun
eghe
CALLE
LL
LE
VECC
ONE
O
CAL
DE
N
le
SALIZAD
CALLE
Murano
SIME
CAZZIOLA
E
TA
LA
CALLE DE LA LACA
C.
CIMESI
N
de
O A SAN
FONDAMENTA
TA RIZZI FONDAMEN
DE
MARTA
NTA FONDAME
Birthplace of the lagoon, one a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, Torcello is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches.
16
DE
ZO
RAMO
CIMESI
MINOTT
Magaz
en
PENSIER
Santa Maria della Salute
SAN BASILIO Murano, one of the three small islands of the CALLE Venetian arcipelago, is famous throught the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Don’t miss the Glass Museum at Palazzo Giustinian.
15
HETT
DEI
TA PROCURATI NDAMENTA FONDAMEN
CALLE
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Generally referred as ‘La Salute’ this jewel of 17th-century baroque CAMPIELLO LONGHI architecture proudly stands at an important point, almost opposite the Piazza san Marco, where the Grand Canal empties the Lagoon. MATTA DI CA’ CALLE Designed by Longhena, it was consutucted to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it CALLE CASE NUOVE
14
SAN
Rio Nuovo
CHI
TERÀ
OTTI AMEN
CANA
E
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPAZ CALLE
ENTA
IA
R
Civico Di Storia Naturale
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
GARZ
CORT
LUNA
Rio
Del
RD
Rio
E
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
I
Palazzo Fortuny
L
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAM
RIO
The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of the 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. www.guggenheim-venice.it
13
TRAG
EA TABAC
11
12
A
SANT'ANDR
TABACCHI
The oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal, it is lined on both sides by shops.
The museum boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned by Mariano Fortuny for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. www.fortuny-visitmuve.it
C.
C. LAVADORI
NUOVA
Rialto Bridge
NUOV
CALLE
10
Soranzo Cappello
CASE CORTE
CALLE
PIAZZALE ROMA TERÀ
TA FABBRICA FONDAMEN
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
RAMO
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
NTA FOND
ICO
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
AME
NUOVE
CROC
Giardino Papadopoli
PAPADOPOLI
EA
BIASIO
DI
RIO
FOND
ER
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
BARI
E
CROCE
'ANDR
RIO
A
FONDAMENTA
Sant'Andrea
SANT
RIVA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
E LA
FON.
TERÀ
People Mover Venezia
MIS
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
3
DEL REMER
ENTA
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
15
AEROPORTO MARCO POLO BAGARON
FOND
della
CAMPO DEI MORI ENTA DEI MORI
FONDAM
TA
E DEL PISTO
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
FONDAM
CALL
Ferrovia
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
S A N TA
The Jewish ghetto
Riva de Biaso
I
LUNG
RTÀ
LIBE
Gallerie dell’Accademia
9
The first ever, it was established in 1516 in the sestiere of Cannaregio. Its magical, cocoon-like atmosphere brings to mind Sheakespeare’s play ‘The Merchant of Venice’.
EN
RIO
San Leonardo
SCALZ
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
E
LA
DEL
8
The Gallerie host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and the 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and
AM
CALL
EONARDO
nde l Gra Cana
CALL
TE
PON
Known by the Venetians simply as ‘I Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval monument in Gothic-Venetian style houses the tombs and funerary monuments of famous people including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. www.basilicadeifrari.it
Guardi. TRONC Hwww.gallerieaccademia.it ETTO
SPA
TA
AMEN
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
ND
I CA
D FOND
P.le Roma
DI
RIO
Santa Maria di Nazareth Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONN
A DELL'OR
SAN LEONARDO
San Geremia
GNA A LIST
À TER
TTI
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
7
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
ALLE
Teatro La Fenice
6
LER
SAVO
N
A RDIA
5
TA
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
CAV
ENTA
A
RGNA
RICO
AI
NS
Rio
FO
9 ER LE P
AMEN
MISE
LI
SE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAM
TA
Museo Ebraico CAL
FOND
LA
PRIU
Scala ETTO Contarini del Bovolo
EN
TO
Palazzo Nani
DE
LE
NCH
AM
CANNAREGIO
le diCANNA REGIO Cann aregio
CAL
TRO
ND
INE
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
MENTA
Cana
BE
CAMPO SAFFA
Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour, it has been for centuries Venice’s principal stage for world-class opera, music, ballet and theatre. www.teatrolafenice.it
100 m
ZZ
FONDA
SAN GIOB
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and a palace, it was ITTICO TO MERCA built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco. The interiors are filled with NE People Mover Venezia numerous treasures. DIREZIO www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org
Where®Italia Editore www.whereitalia.com info@whereitalia.com hotel.relations@whereitalia.com
PU
FONDAMENTA
TA
San Giobbe
The architectural beauty of Palazzo Contarini and its external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell), combined with the view from the top, are well worth a visit. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
CA
San Girolamo
LE
4
DEL
FO
LE
O
AMEN
CAL
A
People Mover Venezia
DE
AM
FOND
The main waterway in Venice - and the most beautiful ‘street’ in the world - it is lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings.
NOV
TA
OL
LLO
VENEZIA
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
DEL
EN
PIAVE
AM
N G IR
CALLE
ND
SA
LARG
TA
C.
FO
EN
TE
CALLE
ER
AM
B AT
IAN
FORN
ND
IA
DEL
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
A
TA
Ponte dei Tre Archi
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
Palazzo Ducale and the Bridge of Sighs
Formerly the residence of government centre of the Doges, Palazzo Ducale is a masterpiece of Gothic art, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The ‘Ponte dei Sospiri’ is a Baroque bridge and one of Venice’s most romantic sights that can be accessed
N U O V Awhen I visiting S OPalazzo L ADucale. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it 3 D E L T R O NGrand C HCanal ETTO ISOL
EN
SEBASTIAN
E
Venice Map
St. Mark’s Basilica
2
AM
BRAGADIN
CALL
FO
ND
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
Sensa
COLETTI
FO
IO
The most important Catholic church in the city and one of the most prestigious monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1,000, while its famous polychrome façade is a 13th-century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and other treasures. www.basilicasanmarco.it
di Sant'
Alvise
della
CARLO
AREG
CALLE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
CANN
NTA
NTI
AMEN
TA FONDAMEVENIER
PENITE
FOND TA
1
FONDAMEN
LARGA
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
POINTS OF INTEREST
NUOVE
CALLE
’
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
F O N D A M E N TA
TA
NUOVE
ER
CASE
B
LA
Parco
LI
I CASE
LA
DELLE
EL
CALLE
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
L’ARCHIVIO
A
EREMITE
VI
Florence September 2018 15
52
V
FOCUS
IA S E
SIGHTSEEING
S T
the guide
E
CASTELLO
S
DE
IP A
ZZ
I
E
SO IU H
IN I
CC
RA
P IE
A
AN
O
LU C
GA LE V IA
NI
UG
NT
MO
DI
DE I
V IA
VIA
IA
SA
AS
M
O
LM
L IE
G
U
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V IA
CI
VI
UT
SI
LI
DE I RO ND IN EL LI
E ST IE TR
CA
A
EC
VI VI
L GA
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O LL
A
A P IR A G .L I V R
D
E
RI
V
VI
IA
A
Centro Lingus Rotonda del Brun O
CI
A DE
L
C
Università degli Studi di Firenz
E
LI
R
V
I
VIA
S
SO
E
I
CA
D
RI
IA
SAN
MAR TELL I
LOR ENZ O
S
TE
LL
AC
PIAZZA FILIPPO BRUNELLESCHI
V
Ospedale Santa Maria Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
VIA CORSO
A
BAR DI
VI
A
D
LU
E
B
AR
D
NG
AR
NO
TO
I
RR
IGI
PIAZZA DEI PITTI
O
S TA S C A
RP
Palazzo Pitti
UC
CI
A
IO RG GIO
A
R
O
M
A
N
A
LI
Giardino di Boboli
I NC
BE D EI A
Chiesa Evangelica Metodista
DE I NE RI
BO RG
VIA DEI VAGELLAI
CO
O SAN
RS
O
TA
DE
LUNGAR
I T
NO DEL
Ponte alle Grazie AN
I
VI
A
D
E
PIAZZA DE’ MOZZI
B
AR
D
I
LUNG
ARNO
VIA DEI RENAI
VIA DI SAN NICCOLO'
Giardino Bardini Forte di Belvedere
Chiesa di San Pier Gattolino
Teatro Santi
eG VSimone IA TO
DE RTA LL 'AN GU ILL AR A
Anfiteatro Romano di Firenze
VI
VIA
San Remigio VIA
VIA
B E N TA C C O V. RD
DE I RU ST IC I
CI
PIAZZA VIA V. MALEN CHINI, MENTANA NO GEN ERA LE DIAZ
AR NO
PIAZZA DI SANTA MARIA SOPR'ARNO
Chiesa San Felicita
VIA
V.
PIAZZA DEI GIUDICI LUN GAR
DE
VIN EG IA
DE I NE RI
SAPO NAI
GRE
DE LL E BR AC HE
VIA
DEI
VIA
DE L LE ON E
VIA
VIA
PIAZZA DEL GRANO
COR NO
MO SC A
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44 MICHELIN-STARRED
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PIAZZA ADUA
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» MAP PAGES 62-63
O
Casa di Riposo della Beata Elisabetta Vendramini
Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels. DE
PIAZZA PIER VETTORI
A
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San Jacopo di Ripoli
Chiesa episcopale americana di St. James
M
V
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Firenze Fiera
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Information and tips to experience the best that Florence has to offer
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LU IG
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LARGO CESARE CANTÙ
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Fortezza da Basso
42 TOP HOTEL RESTAURANTS
Ponte delle Cascine
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Stazione Leopolda
Chiesa Di San Bartolomeo a Monte Oliveto
Suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need.
V. L. NN
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PIAZZALE DELLA COSTITUZIONE
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60 ESSENTIALS VI
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Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Sacro Cuore al Romito
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Chiesa San Jacopino
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Teatro dell’Opera
Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli
18 NOT JUST FLORENCE
PISANA
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Several of the best shopping destinations not far from Florence.
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The “old” bridge is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence.
A ISAN
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17 DISCOVERING PONTE VECCHIO
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ET PI
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P V I A us on Like facebook.com/WhereFlorence
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The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping.
VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO
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issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines
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M
V. D. AZALEE
www.magzter.com Digital magazine store N
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Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V I A
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26 LUXURY TOP BRANDS
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Fritz Konig, among the greatest contemporary sculptors, is celebrated by the Uffizi with a major retrospective
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Irene: genuine flavours inspired by the classics of the Tuscan tradition, with a wholly female elegance
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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1
CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3
BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the
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square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire
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MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10
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MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12
Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13
PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8
SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14
PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9
SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES SEPTEMBER
Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
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SEPTEMBER PERFORMANCE ART
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THE BODY OF MARINA Palazzo Strozzi, one of the most lively locations on the city’s cultural scene, devotes an important exhibition to famous and controversial performer Marina Abramović, renowned for her often extreme performances, in which she tests the limits of her own body to the point of risking its very integrity. The exhibition brings together around 100 works by the artist, offering an overview of the best known creations of her career, from the 1960s to the 2000s, through videos, photographs, paintings, objects, installations and, above all, live reruns of her famous performances by a group of performers specifically selected and trained for the exhibition. Marina Abramović. The Cleaner Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi www.palazzostrozzi.org #MarinaFlorence
Marina Abramović, Artist Portrait with a Candle from the series “Places of Power” (2013). Courtesy of the Marina Abramović Archive © Marina Abramović by SIAE 2018. Photo © Marco Anelli.
PHOTO 2010 © MARCO ANELLI
Top: Marina Abramović/Ulay, Imponderabilia 1977, ½” video transferred to digital video (b/w, sound), 50:25 min. Amsterdam, LIMA Foundation, MAC/2017/038 Marina Abramović by SIAE 2018. Right: Marina Abramović, The Artist is Present 2010, 7-channel video installation (6 x 16:9 projections, 1 monitor: color, no sound), Grid: 6 hours/ CAM 3: 71 x 7 Hour files. New York, Abramovic LLC, MAC/2017/071. Photo © Marco Anelli. Courtesy of the Marina Abramović Archives. Marina Abramović by SIAE 2018. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 9
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MUSIC
TRADITION
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SAN MINIATO, ECHOES OF THE ORIENT Original, spiritual sounds, in the splendid setting of one of the most beautiful Florentine Basilicas: the concert by the Orchestra della Toscana – included among the events celebrating the thousand-year anniversary of the Basilica of San Miniato al Monte – reaffirms the bond between San Miniato and Armenia, paying homage to the Florentine protomartyr St. Minias, who was born in Armenia. Pages from the work by the great contemporary composer Tigran Mansurian, Confessing with Faith for viola and four voices, will be performed, alongside new compositions commissioned from him by the Abbey, and will be recorded live as an absolute world première, with the collaboration of renowned German record company ECM. Concert for the thousand years of San Miniato al Monte Tigran Mansurian, Confessing with Faith 9pm Basilica di San Miniato al Monte, Via delle Porte Sante, 34 millenario.sanminiatoalmonte.it
OPERA
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ROMANTIC VIOLETTA IN THE POCKET VERSION
The beautiful courtesan Violetta falls in love with young Alfredo Germont and decides to turn her life around. But SEPTEMBER Alfredo’s family intervenes, and the idyllic love story ends in tragedy. This is the story of La Traviata, the masterpiece of Verdian melodrama, presented here in an enchanting reduced version accompanied by a dance troupe. The location is one of the most fascinating in the centre of Florence, Santo Stefano al Ponte, beside Ponte Vecchio: one of the oldest churches of the historic centre of Florence, with a unique position, extraordinary acoustics and magnificent environment that make it a perfect setting to host classical music and opera performances. La Traviata - Reduced opera with ballet. 13 September, 8.30pm Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, Piazza Santo Stefano, 5. www.classictic.com
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THE NIGHT OF THE LANTERNS
The origins of this much loved feast date back to the SEPTEMBER 17th century, when in order to celebrate the Nativity of the Madonna in the Basilica della Santissima Annunziata the many people who had come into the city with their families from the surrounding countryside lit up the itinerary with lanterns of various kinds, known as “rificolone”, hung from the top of sticks, reeds or poles. Over time the lanterns have changed their appearance and today they depict all kinds of things: watermelon slices, crescent moons, lights, multi-coloured suns. The feast commences at 8pm in Piazza Santa Felicita, passes through Piazza della Signoria with the procession called the Corteo delle Rificolone and arrives in Piazza Santissima Annunziata for the final festival with music and the awarding of a prize to the most beautiful rificolona. Festa della Rificolona Historic Centre - Piazza della Santissima Annunziata
SEPTEMBER FESTIVAL BENEATH THE STARS OF JAZZ
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►In the cool district of Oltrarno, the rive gauche of Florence, a Festival with an unusual formula: not a festival of concerts with “traditional” stages, but music brought right to the people using different locations, SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER from historic clubs to fashionable venues, to premises that do not usually host live music or else present other genres, to the streets, churches, squares, gardens and museums. The Fringe occupies unusual spaces with events of great scenic charm, providing an innovative acoustic experience. The genre? Experimental, originally produced jazz.
Firenze Jazz Fringe Festival 2018 Oltrarno, various locations www.fjff.it
FOLKLORE NEW WINE ENTERS THE CITY
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►The arrival of the “Carro Matto” (literally the “Crazy Wagon”) in the city and the blessing of the Chianti wine is one of the great traditions of Renaissance Florence. The “Carro Matto” is a genuine masterpiece of engineering, with SEPTEMBER around 2000 fragile fiaschi (the classic Tuscan blown-glass bottles, protected by straw) stacked in a pyramid in a miraculous balancing act. In the afternoon of the last Saturday of September it enters Florence hauled by oxen of the Chianina breed, there follows the blessing of the wine in the square of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and its subsequent transferring – escorted by the Historic Procession – to Piazza della Signoria for a feast with flag-wavers.
Carro Matto From 3.30pm procession through the streets of the centre from Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Signoria w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
WHERE NOW | FOCUS Florentine craftsmanship has known how to focus on the tradition and the excellent features of the territory, also retaining – in addition to its high quality – the mark of history and people. That is why, thanks to the blending of innovative techniques and traditional know-how, today it still remains one of the most appreciated in the world. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI
Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia
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hat do Leonardo, Michelangelo, Botticelli and Donatello have in common? They were all born in Tuscany, a land of artists and artisans, of creative, clever people, with a marked tradition of manual skills; so it is no surprise that still today Tuscany is known and appreciated throughout the world for its high-quality craftsmanship. Each province possesses treasures of inestimable value, created by “making virtue of necessity”, as they say, that is, using the raw materials offered by the territory: from gold to silver, from ceramics to silk, to paper, leather and even straw, also including perfumes and excellent quality foodstuffs such as wine, oil or meat. Florentine artisans, in particular, are a historical and productive reality that has its roots deep in the truest soul of the city. The history of Florence is in fact indissolubly linked to the history of its artisans: between the 12th and 13th centuries they began to form the guilds of arts and crafts, who brought their members from the same professional category together for the purposes of promotion, mutual aid and the pursuit of common interests. The birth of the guilds of arts and crafts, an extremely modern insight for the time, deserves most of the plaudits for the extraordinary cultural and economic development that enabled Florence to become one of the richest, most powerful cities in Europe in the Renaissance. Today, in an increasingly globalised world, the Florentines have succeeded in conserving their immense manufacturing heritage to the utmost. Though retaining hand-crafting working methods, they have in fact known how to adapt perfectly to fit the contemporary timescales, methods and aesthetics, opening themselves up to the use of innovative techniques. Some of them have chosen to remain within the dimensions of the workshop, often family-run, others have given rise to full-blown international companies while still maintaining their manufacturing vocation. Let us discover some of these outstanding products made in Florence together. 12 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Il Bisonte shop-workshop
AROMA OF LEATHER Walking along the streets of Florence you may find yourself suddenly inebriated by the aroma of leather coming from the shops that sell leather clothing and accessories. Ever since the 13th century, the neighbourhood of Santa Croce in particular, thanks to its strategic position close to the River Arno, has continued to host activities such as tanneries, which required a large quantity of water. You can have fun looking our for the reminders of these age-old activities in the names of the streets and squares of this area, such as Corso dei Tintori, Via delle Conce and Via dei Conciatori, to mention just a few. Here, as well as shopping in the many boutiques selling leather goods, you can observe the craftsmen and craftswomen at work in the workshops of the Leather School. Located inside the ancient dormitory of the Monastery of the Franciscan Monks of the Basilica of Santa Croce, designed by Michelozzo and frescoed by the school of Ghirlandaio, it is worth a visit for the
Marzi Firenze
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Salvatore Ferragamo Museum
uniqueness of its location alone, not to mention the refinement of its creations: hand-stitched handbags, also made to order, and unique items made of buckskin, crocodile, python and ostrich and decorated with ancient stones and silvers (www.scuoladelcuoio.com). The Il Bisonte shop-workshop, another example of outstanding Florentine hand-crafting known at international level, is to be found in Via del Parione, not far from Palazzo Corsini. The material of choice of the brand is “vacchetta” cowhide, a high-quality leather worked using the natural technique of vegetable tanning, an ancient procedure that makes it possible to obtain a product that is particularly soft and resistant and perfumed at the same time. Would you like to spoil yourselves with a pair of handmade shoes made-to-measure for you by a Florentine artisan? Then Roberto Ugolini is your man. In his workshop in the Santo Spirito neighbourhood he will let you choose the leather and the model, take the measurements of your foot, then he will work on a wooden base, which he will modify and file down by hand. After around six months and various tests you will receive a shoe that will fit your perfectly (www.roberto-ugolini.com). And on the subject of footwear, we cannot forget another great Florentine artisan whose name has become legendary at international level: Salvatore Ferragamo. Even though he became famous for “dressing” the feet of the divas of Hollywood, he started out here and he returned again once he had achieved renown overseas. If you would like to know more about the history of the designer label or treat yourself to a pair of its iconic shoes, you need only enter
Palazzo Spini Feroni in Via de’ Tornabuoni, the site of the Museum and also the Ferragamo boutique (www.ferragamo.com). PLAITING Who of us has never wanted a straw hat from Florence? It is an accessory that “immediately makes a trip to Italy” in the imaginations of the tourists visiting this country, but it is also much loved by fashionable young Florentines; it is just right for the beach and the city and will suit any look. The working of straw is typical of Florentine craftsmanship, particularly of the town of Signa, situated around 10 km from Florence, and it saw its true rise to fame in around the 18th century, with the introduction of a method for cultivating wheat that involved intensive seeding and the moving forward of harvesting time, before the stem reaches maturity, in order to obtain a plait of straw that is thin, flexible and blonde in colour. This technique proved to be a winning one, enabling the Florentine territory to become the number-one producer of straw hats in the entire Western world and still today it is the headquarters of the most prestigious straw hat companies in the world. If you are an enthusiast for this subject then you must not miss the chance to visit the Museum of Straw and Plaiting, which is located in Signa and includes an exhibition of various types of straw and wheat, a selection of hats from the end of the 19th century to the 1970s and machines and equipment for working straw and hats (www.museopaglia.it). If after the visit you have an uncontrollable desire to shop, hop across to the nearby shop of Raffaello Bettini, where they have been producing them
Creator of perfumes Lorenzo Villoresi, Florentine experimenter, autodidact and artist. A creator of perfumes of world renown and the inventor of a project for the diffusion of perfume culture with the foundation of an academy and a museum of perfume at his studio-palace in Florence. By Alessandra Avanzi
since 1938 (raffaellobettini.it). A combination of craftsmanship and innovation, Marzi Firenze hats for women are unique and inimitable: the famous maglina di Firenze (Florentine plaited straw), which is impossible to find nowadays and jealously guarded in Marzi’s warehouses, is still used when creating, decorating and handpainting hats adorned with plumes, feathers, dried flowers and grasses. Marzi Firenze is now an established brand on the international market, with an important and significant presence in all the world’s finest showcases (www.marzi.com). If you remain in the centre of Florence, not far from Palazzo Strozzi, then you must not miss out on the boutique Grevi, a historic brand of straw hats, established in 1875 and particularly appreciated by Hollywood stars (www.grevi.it). HIGHQUALITY STATIONERY Another of the city’s most ancient crafts is paper production. The artistic paper products from the Medici city range from the very famous carta fiorentina, decorated by hand with the designs of the lily, the symbol of Florence, or else adorned with gilded ornamental motifs typical of the Renaissance, to high-quality marbled paper, obtained through a demanding soaking process, which is distinguished from industrial processing on account of the complexity of the procedure, to binding products such as address books, letter paper, notebooks, bookmarks, bookplates and diaries. In this case too the ancient techniques have been adapted to suit modern requirements, offering a vast range of unique objects. To find them, go to Giulio Giannini e Figlio (www. giuliogiannini.com). For six generations this
How did the idea of founding an academy of perfume come about? The Museo Villoresi and the Academy are the outcome of a lifetime devoted to the art of perfumery combined with a willingness to share the know-how of this art form. It affords a new approach to perfumes and an enhanced experience into their beauty, extraordinary variety and charm. There is a great interest in the world of perfume: amateurs who would like to become perfumers or enthusiasts who would like to have greater expertise. We began with awareness-creation and educational training lessons with small groups of 10-20 people, and now today I’m asked to do lessons for much larger groups. In parallel, a museum of perfume is being built, which is still in the process of construction, located on the ancient basement of the palace; with an aromatic garden so the people can smell and see plants such as patchouli, vetiver, frangipane, lily of the valley and many others. The academy will launch officially once the work on the museum of perfume, involving display cases of perfumes, a collection of aromas and raw materials that are useful for the training course, has finished. We have also developed an original documentary film on the history of perfume. However, at the heart of our interest are the aromatic raw materials and the journey around the world to look for them. What is the process for constructing a personalised perfume? There is no precise rule, each time is different and depends on the person I have in front of me. I am an intermediary and the fragrances are the medium. The most important thing is the relationship that is established with the person. Because there is an entire history behind them. Sometimes the people arrive aware and full of stories that must come out, at others they arrive entirely unaware of all this, quite relaxed. But smells have a strong evocative power and it is necessary to be careful where we go. Finally, the formula remains confidential and the customers can re-order their “own” perfume.
Lorenzo Villoresi
PHOTO © SANDRO MICHAHELLES
PHOTO © GUGLIELMO DE’MICHELI
What is your first olfactory memory? There are so many of them… but they are associated with a house in the country a short distance from Florence. In particular, I remember the smell of a plant called “Olea fragrans” (Osmanthus fragrans). In this house in the country there was and still is a crazy flowering of this plant, during which there is a pervasive and penetrating perfume, characterised by honey-tinged, floral, fruity notes, with an “animal-like” undertone. I also remember the smell of the flowers of the bitter orange tree that are present in their hundreds in the garden of this house.
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS historic art workshop and ancient bookbinder’s, located right opposite Palazzo Pitti, has been producing handmade marbled paper, printed paper with traditional designs and, on request, personalised objects. Walking through the city you will undoubtedly come upon one of the six Florentine boutiques of Il Papiro (ilpapirofirenze. eu), a company established in Florence in 1976 and now known internationally, with points of purchase also in New York and Palm Beach. Their production, executed following the methods and procedures of the tradition, ranges from bookbindery items entirely covered in marbled paper to desk accessories of various types and sizes. Here you can also test your abilities on a paper marbling and bookbinding course, run by specialist artisans. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to return home with a souvenir from Florence made with your very own hands? Another great artisan firm specialising in paper that has become renowned at international level is Pineider. Established in Florence in 1774, it soon became a point of reference for the noble families and upper middle classes of Europe; with time, the paper business was joined by that of leather goods and then that of writing instruments. The Pineider flagship store is in the heart of Florence, not far from Palazzo Strozzi (www.pineider.com). FLORENCE, CITY OF PERFUMES Perhaps not everyone knows this, but for a long time Florence was considered the Italian capital of perfume. When Caterina de’ Medici married future king of France Henry II, she took with her to Paris Renato, her trusted Florentine perfumier, who contributed to the diffusion of perfume in France and then in all the European courts. Furthermore, in Florentine monasteries, already in the Renaissance, there was always Pineider
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Giulio Giannini e Figlio a monk present who devoted his energies to working with herbs and the extraction of natural essences. This love for research still continues today thanks to the highly specialised work of great artisan perfumiers. Not far from Santa Maria Novella railway station is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world, the Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. At the beginning of the 13th century, the Dominican monks converted the church into a monastery and began to cultivate medicinal herbs in the cloister, extracting ointments, balms and other remedies from them. To this day, continuing to use high-quality raw ingredients (most of the flowers and grasses still come from the garden of the pharmacy) and following the original recipes of the Dominican monks, but with the aid of avant-garde technology and machinery, the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella produces essences, perfumes,
soaps, cosmetics, room air fresheners, liqueurs, honey and specialist foodstuffs. Inside the former monastery, as well as purchasing medicinal products in the marvellous sales room, which was originally one of the chapels, you must not miss the museum, where the so-called “Florentine bottles” are conserved, which were used to separate the aromatic essences from the distillation water, in addition to a collection of Tuscan pharmacy ceramics and a series of ancient items of machinery. Also worthy of note is the library, where you can admire the frescoes created in 1380 by Mariotto di Nardo, one of the first Renaissance painters, and where the ancient texts of the laboratory, hand-written by the Dominican monks and showing all the traditional recipes, are conserved. On request, it is possible to visit the complex accompanied by a guide (www.smnovella.com). In Via de’ Bardi, on the other hand, in an ancient building on the Oltrarno, is the boutique of Lorenzo Villoresi Firenze. Established in 1990, it has blazed an entirely new trail in the sector of artistic perfumery, thanks to olfactory creations that succeed in evoking sensations and suggestions of distant countries (see box at page 15). Crystal glass, alabaster from Volterra, Carrara marble, olive wood, these are just some of the raw materials from the territory that are used in the perfumes of Lorenzo Villoresi, masterfully combined with spices and Oriental essences (www.lorenzovilloresi.it). Are you passionate about perfumery and want to learn more about the subject? Then the tourist itineraries of “Firenze città dei perfumi” [Florence city of perfumes] are designed specially for you: three highly perfumed routes guide you in the discovery of some of the most prestigious exponents of the Italian perfumier’s art, the shops, pharmacies, spice shops and ancient herbalists’ (toscana.artour.it).
WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING
Discovering Ponte Vecchio It is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence and, as such, is one of the most photographed sites in the world. Here are some details so you can get to know it better. B Y A M A L A N G E L O T T I
ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches, never previously seen, which makes it particularly stable and its profile unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was understood to be a natural continuation of the road, and so it has shops and porticos along both sides facing towards the centre, each with a single shop window closed by strong wooden doors, and often with a picturesque backroom protruding over the river. Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici
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irst of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were the Etruscans. The Roman founders of the village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner of the current one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations and modifications, this passage across the Arno has remained in its place, actively participating in the history of the city.
in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings to his private residence, without exposing the sovereign to any danger. A UNIQUE HISTORY The change of identity of the zone during the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who had a preference for the bridge on account of the ease with which they could throw their waste into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which were more appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they have continued their presence there ever since for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and sometimes a protagonist – of the history of
the city: considering it a source of great pride, Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening up new larger, more panoramic windows for his benefit. One rather romanticised version claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of such beauty, would decide to save the bridge from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator. LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. UNDER THE BRIDGE Finally, you should know that there is also life under the bridge: the historic Società Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the activities that take place on the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 17
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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
Not just Florence If Florence offers tourists an unrivalled cultural and historical heritage, its surrounding area no less so. Here are some suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need. For more details ask your concierge. By Chiara Zaccarelli
Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia
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f you choose Florence as your base, the good news is that around an hour away by train, bus or car you will find UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval towns and abbeys and kilometres of coastline for bathers. The only problem is in having to make a choice, particularly if you have just a few days available. CITIES OF ART If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range from the Tuscan regional capital there are architectural wonders that will catapult you into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. About an hour by train from Florence is Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating historic centres, surrounded by ancient
Tuscany’s soft rolling hills
16th-century walls, today still practically fully intact and walkable in their entirely. You can cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the benches. The picturesque historic centre has remained almost intact, including countless medieval churches, which have earned Lucca the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, Renaissance squares and buildings and Roman amphitheatres. The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also be easily reached from Florence in about an hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, which stands in a unique monumental context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Here, after the unmissable ascent of the Tower, you can visit the Cathedral itself, the Baptistery,
the Cemetery, the Palazzo dell’Opera of the Cathedral and the Sinopie Museum. Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence (looking at the idyllic landscape of the Tuscan countryside through the window) you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, a marble tabernacle with splendid sculptures, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena
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Siena
San Gimignano Nature at its wildest in the area of the Crete Senesi, the medieval towns with their towers standing out among the green hills and the crowds in Piazza del Campo on the occasion of the traditional Palio di Siena (2 July and 16 August). This is Tuscany too.
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is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, with their succession of churches, palaces and shops where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, reachable by coach from Siena and Florence and situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th / 14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time. San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban fabric. Nevertheless, the effect of arriving from the countryside and seeing the outline of the town emerge still leaves you breathless.
LUGANO MENDRISIO
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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
Greve in Chianti
olive groves and cypress trees in the surreal peacefulness of the Chianti hills? Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south-east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments that covered the zone millions of years ago. These bare, softly undulating hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar appearance, are dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque medieval towns and culinary festivals (of which that of the white truffle, typical of the zone, stands out in particular).
BERGAMO BRESCIA
NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, both on foot (if you are keen on trekking then it will just be a stroll for you) and on the numerous buses departing from the city centre. Over the years the hill of Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this privileged observatory, dotted with villas, museums, archaeological excavations, churches and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano, this too easy to reach from the city centre; in the past it has been chosen as a residence by painter Telemaco Signorini, poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and writer Mark Twain, all fascinated by its gentle hills and calm atmosphere. The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives. Can you think of anything more romantic than enjoying a picnic on a warm late summer day, sipping new wine and tasting the speciality of the location, surrounded by
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THERMAL SPRINGS Tuscany is the region that boasts the largest number of spa structures in Italy, thanks to the presence of numerous water deposits famous since antiquity for the treatment of numerous pathologies. From Florence you can easily reach numerous natural springs and although many have now become part of spa establishments, others are still free, so you can dip in their warm waters and benefit from their therapeutic properties at zero cost, or at very affordable prices. Whether you just want to relax or treat yourself to a beauty treatment, or you have some ailment to be treated, you are spoiled for choice. In the heart of Maremma, in the Province of Grosseto, is the park of the Saturnia Thermal Baths, a fully fledged resort with open-air thermal pools, hydromassage,
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vascular circuits, hotels and restaurants, one of the largest oases of relaxation in the whole of Tuscany. Or maybe you prefer a wilder, less expensive alternative? The nearby Cascate del Gorello form a waterfall that flows around an ancient mill giving rise to a series of natural pools dug into the rock. The water has a temperature of 37.5°C and thanks to the presence of thermal plankton has beneficial effects on the skin and the digestive, circulatory and motor systems. Entry to the falls is free of charge, and although they have no facilities they are open 24 hours a day, every day, even in winter. Let’s move to the province of Siena now, to immerse ourselves in the sulphur waters of the Thermal Baths of Petriolo. Already known in the Roman era, these waters gush out at a temperature of 43°C, are rich in salts and are traditionally used to cure the various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. These springs too can
Pier footpath promenade, beach and Apuane mountains in Forte dei Marmi Versilia
be enjoyed both free of charge and at the establishments with their attached hotel structures. On the outskirts of Montecatini Terme, on the other hand, is the spectacular Grotta Giusti, a thousand-year-old natural cave that winds its way amid stalactites and stalagmites to reach a stretch of crystalclear water. Its waters have a temperature of between 27°C and 34°C and mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the metabolism of the blood vessels. THE BEACHES Your bathing costume and beach towel are probably not the first things you think of putting in your suitcase if you are about to set off for Florence, but if you visit in the summer you might feel the desire to seek a little refreshment at one of the many beaches dotted along the Tuscan coastline. Although the Medici city is deep inland,
there are in fact various beaches that can be easily reached both by car and by train. The closest, the preferred destination of chic Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in north-western Tuscany, with its long wellequipped beaches, dotted with venues frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for nature lovers with its free beaches; here the water is shallow and transparent and the sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the other hand, is known as “the pearl of the Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking landscapes, characterised by sheer cliffs, coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach by train directly from Florence, the beach at Quercianella, again in the province of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the Mediterranean maquis and perfect for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts.
Pedalling through Tuscany Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge.
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Saturnia
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
WELCOME TO FORTE DEI MARMI footwear for more than forty years now, and Giovanni del Forte, who manufactures hand-made clogs for VIPs and royal families, or Principe di Firenze, a tailor’s shop of yesteryear, with its age-old charm and bundles of precious fabrics. The nights, on the other hand, pass quickly, in fashionable nightspots such as Twiga or the historic La Capannina di Franceschi, an iconic venue from the 1960s, which has made a powerful contribution to building up the iconography of the Forte dei Marmi of the period and still today, with all its highs and lows, it still succeeds in exciting.
Twiga Beach Club Forte dei Marmi
The bikes, the scent of maritime pines, the focaccine, the Wednesday market, the long pier stretching into the sea, the historic beach clubs with their striped umbrellas and the Liberty-style villas hidden away in the shade of the pinewood. This, and so much more, is Forte dei Marmi, the seaside resort in the province of Lucca that takes its name from the fort located in the town centre and from the marbles of the nearby Apuan Alps. Located around an hour and a half by train from Florence, but also reachable by bus (ask your concierge), since the early 20th century it has fascinated industrialists such as the Agnelli and Siemens families and intellectuals such as Thomas Mann or Luchino Visconti, to name just a few, also becoming a point of reference for European high society. The major tourism boom occurred in the post-war
period, when it became one of the most glamorous holiday resorts in Italy and was invaded by VIPs and famous personalities, the Milanese and Tuscan upper middle class and “holidaymakers” hoping to have a little stardust sprinkled on themselves. Today “Il Forte”, as the regulars call it, not without a touch of self-congratulatory snobbery, retains its own refined, hazy aura. Here, in the summer months, the days pass lazily, between the beach (no less than 5 kilometres long) and the pinewood. Among the historic establishments are the Silvio, Piero and Annetta beach clubs, but more recently fashionable new entry international clubs such as Nikki Beach (the one in Saint Tropez, in other words) are also doing well. In the late afternoon, before an aperitif at Almarosa, frequented by footballers and stars of the entertainment world, you can go shopping in the boutiques in the town centre. And if you linger a while to watch the sunset from the beach, don’t worry, because the shops stay open here till late evening in the summer months. All the major brands, from Gucci to Prada to Dolce&Gabbana, have shops at Il Forte, but there is also no shortage of multi-brand shops, such as Boutique Fiacchini, that stand out for their choice of international labels. But the real gems are the historic shops, such as the one belonging to Antonio Artigiano, who has been creating hand-crafted
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A holiday in Forte dei Marmi revolves around rituals that seem eternal: on Wednesdays, for instance, there is the legendary market, and you can find everything there. The Market at Forte dei Marmi is a genuine openair boutique where you can buy precious fabrics or ceramics for your seaside home, but also leather goods, hats made of fine straw and cashmere cardigans, all strictly Made in Italy. It goes without saying that you cannot expect to find neighbourhood market prices, but quality, as we know, has to be paid for. And then there are the focaccine, which, together with the bomboloni (cream buns) are the snacks that symbolise summers in Versilia. You can buy them unfilled at the historic Focacceria Valè, or Da Orlando, where they sell the filled versions. Luckily there are plenty of opportunities to burn a few calories: travelling around Il Forte by bike is de rigueur (they can be hired from Cicli Maggi) but alternatively, above all if you have young children, you can rent a rickshaw and have fun breezing along the promenade. But Forte dei Marmi is also culture: every year, in the months of July and August, inside the large Versiliana maritime pine park, the festival of the same name takes place, which includes concerts, theatre plays and events of various kinds (C.Z.)
Gucci
CULTI HOUSE A small, charming space in the centre of Forte dei Marmi, that expresses the spirit of the company and hosts all the collections of home fragrances, from home diffusers to sprays, scented candles and car sachets. Characterised by the same iconic elements as the Milanese boutiques, such as maple wood furnishings, glass shelving, suffused lighting, the boutique is a real “fragrance house” whose mission is to promote the Living Culture conceived thirty years ago: an original concept that translates into a stylistic and olfactive coherence, stimulating the senses in a heady mix of design, art and perfume. www.culti.com Via Carducci, 43. T: 0584 1848084.
ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Florentine designer Angela Caputi also has a shop in Forte dei Marmi with her brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery is inspired by the US movies of the early 20th century and indeed is much loved across the ocean (to the extent that some of her pieces are exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum Art in New York). The boutique in Forte dei Marmi remains consistent with the holiday spirit of the location and is designed with total white interiors. Here, in addition to the jewellery, it is possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Stagio Stagi, 50 A/B. T: 0584 80705.
PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE The history of Principe di Firenze is inextricably linked with Tuscany, and particularly with Florence, where it was founded in 1930. The point of purchase in Forte dei Marmi also remains faithful to that calm elegance of British inspiration that is the essence of the Principe di Firenze collections that are much loved by a certain type of cultured, sophisticated traveller. The own-brand tailored creations, which are suited to every occasion of the day, alternate with proposals for women, men and children by major Italian brands. Here you can also find accessories, scented candles, silverware and objects for the home. www.principedifirenze.com Via Carducci 1/3. T: 0584 89369.
FEDELI SWIM & WEAR In recent years Fedeli Swim & Wear, a colourful collection of men’s swimming costumes by the historic Fedeli Cashmere clothing firm, has embarked upon a process of retail expansion into the most prestigious Italian holiday locations. It is almost de rigueur, therefore, to have a shop in the centre of Forte dei Marmi. The space, which is bright and minimalistic, stretches over an area of 75 sq.m. and is structured around tones of white, to make the vitamin colour shades of the shirts, polo shirts, swimming costumes and eyewear of Fedeli Swim & Wear stand out. fedeliswimwear.com Via Idone, 3/C. T: 0584 784128.
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Chenille jewellery It’s the magic of Giuggiù, which makes resin as resplendent as though it were prismatic velvet. And in the boutiques of the centre, where its creative heart beats, it presents the new collection. By Elena Binda
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mazing colours, the desire to be cosily wrapped up in warm materials: autumn to be worn. Angela Caputi, the Florentine designer and inventor of Giuggiù, a luxury costume jewellery brand appreciated all over the world, knows this all too well. The first innovation for the season is in fact the “Ciniglia” (chenille) collection, a jewellery line inspired by the subtle tones of nature and, at the same time, by the tactile experiences that the arrival of cool weather brings with it. The range of colours therefore includes the red of wine, the brown of the earth, mustard yellow and the soft green of autumn leaves. The shapes, geometrical and regular, strive for aesthetic refinement. The name “Ciniglia” finds 24 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
its reference in the optical effect of synthetic resins that recall velvets, brocades and chenille. The new collection is presented in all its splendour in the two boutiques owned by the brand in the historic centre of Florence. Above all, the creative heart of Giuggiù, the workshop where Angela Caputi still gives life to her creations: a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, in an ancient 17th-century building known as “Palazzetto Medici”, the designer continues the work begun decades ago, inspired by US cinema, continually cross-referencing fashion and craftsmanship. More recently opened is the boutique in Borgo Santissimi Apostoli, where, along with jewellery, it is possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories to complete the Giuggiù style.
>> www.angelacaputi.com Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
Guidelines CLOTHING &
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in bold
at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 62-63). SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAXFREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 9,000 merchants are located in Florence. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, The Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.
ACCESSORIES Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4
Anichini
CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3
Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open MonFri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4
Brunello Cucinelli The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and today boasts top-level production with total look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www. brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3
Elena Mirò An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3
Giovanni Raspini In the beating heart of the fashion district, the boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique
The entire Ferragamo universe Florentine brand that has known how to combine age-old hand crafting skills with the creativity typical of products made in Italy, today Salvatore Ferragamo represents quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition. The Florentine boutique, which contains all the fashion house’s men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections, is located inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s historic workshop since 1938, today its headquarters and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes, stretching from Piazza Santa Trinita to the banks of the River Arno. And it is precisely the wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita that hosts the Ferragamo’s Creations corner, with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic. This is a space whose layout recalls the studio where Salvatore Ferragamo received his customers and all its creative inspiration. A unique opportunity to fully immerse yourself in the universe of this gifted innovator who has revolutionised the world of women’s footwear through new models, volumes and materials. www.ferragamo.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123.
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107. T: 055 212995. Map E4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27. T: 055 219179. Map E3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16. T: 055 285832. Map F3
BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. Map E4 CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49. T: 055 298181. Map F3 CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 264254. Map E3 ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2670086. Map D3 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. T: 055 212305 Map E3
Printed silk twill MAX MARA scarf with hand-sewn edges. Available in black or red. 26 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4
These pumps by GIORGIO ARMANI are adorned with a unique menswear-inspired detail: an elegant pin reminiscent of a tuxedo lapel.
GIORGIO ARMANI— www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. NEW OPENING Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. Map E3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70. T: 055 294909. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. T: 055 2398688. Map E4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Map E3 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. Map F3
Elegant PRADA work bag in saffiano leather with clean lines. The two-tone crocodile skin inserts enhances the sophisticated look of this model, to be carried by hand or on the shoulder. MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. —www.michaelkors.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. T: 055 290284. Map F3 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. —www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. —www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 2608931. Map F3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com. —www.moncler.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. —www.montblanc.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Map E3 PRADA—www. —www. prada.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 287066. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 267471 Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. —www.ysl.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. —www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. —www.swarovski.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. Map F3 TOD’S—www.tods.com. —www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. Map E4
Sizing IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Women,s clothes EUR US 32 1 34 2 36 4 38 6 40 8 42 10 44 12
UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
IT 36 37 38 39 40 41
Women,s shoes EUR US 36 6 37 6.5 38 7.5 39 8.5 40 9 41 9.5
UK 3 4 5 6 7 8
IT 50 52 54 56 58 60
Men,s clothes EUR US 46 36 48 38 50 40 52 42 54 44 56 46
UK 36 38 40 42 44 46
IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
Men,s shoes EUR US 40 7.5 41 8 42 8.5 43 9 44 10.5 45 11.5 46 12
UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
A hymn to femininity, this long, straight dress in warm shades of red by EMILIO PUCCI is highlighted by a jewel collar. A combination of elegance and seduction.
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SHOPPING hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3
DEPARTMENT STORES Rinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items. For women, proposals of the best Italian and international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. There is a Food Market on the fourth floor with gourmet products made in Italy and a selection of excellent international products, while the Terrace with café-bar (T: 055 283612) offers a spectacular 360° panoramic view of the city’s main landmarks www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3
FINE ART Abacus
BINDERY A workshop producing precious bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the phases are supervised in the workshop: from the folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase of hand stitching, to the application of the cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. Map L4
Antico Setificio Fiorentino The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3
Galleria Romanelli The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in
one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047. Map C4
Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand following traditional procedures and using natural products and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. Map D3 T: 055 2396039.
Papiro (Il) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1
Pitti Mosaici Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6
Richard Ginori 1735 Tradition and excellence in the high-quality artistic manufacture of porcelain. The Richard Ginori “artistic factory”, of 18th-century origin, still produces accessories for the table and living room and works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km from Florence) using ancient working techniques. Italian style and international trends. www. richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2
Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6
JEWELLERY & WATCHES Alessandro Dari
UNIQUE Housed in the 15th-century Palazzo Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to exhibit his precious works and another used as an artistic workshop where jewellery and decorative objects are developed, including one-off items and themed collections. Some of his works are displayed at the nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6
Angela Caputi Giuggiù
COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4
LA MÉNAGÈRE A delightful concept store that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch.
www.lamenagere.it Via de’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600.
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SHOPPING 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4
Ugo Poggi
A fresh spin on the classic bucket bag, this BOTTEGA VENETA tote features ayers applications on contrasting ‘intrecciato’ nappa and a flat, round bottom. A revisiting of the classic bucket bag with a fresh and youthful design.
Annamaria Cammilli A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4
3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3
Massai Orafi
Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates jewellery accessories and products for decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2
Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4
Cassetti 1926
Officine Panerai
Aprosio
In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5
Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www. damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4
Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4
Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 30 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2
Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-
It came about in Florence in the early 20th century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, glassware and furnishings. After a century, now in its third generation, today the brand proposes a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a precious selection of antique silverware. No longer just internally produced furnishing accessories, but also historic Italian and top quality international brands. www. ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 26/r. T: 055 216741. Map E3
Vacheron Constantin Boutique In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5
LEATHER Cuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map
Gianni Chiarini Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3
Il Bisonte Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4
[RINASCENTE]
The best shopping
In the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the historic treasures of the city, you will find Rinascente: the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design. And don’t miss the top floor with the Terrazza bar & restaurant.
THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE
Shoppers will find items of the best Italian and international brands. A large area is devoted to women’s fashion which includes a vast and prestigious range in both classic fashions as well as the latest trends. Special attention is also given to men’s wear where shoppers can choose from formal attire to smart casual wear. The constant arrival of new brands, unique commodities and the latest products exclusive to Rinascente makes the store the focal point for your high-end shopping in the city. The Food Market on the fourth floor is a space dedicated to the best Made in Italy gourmet food and a selection of the most sought-after international produce. The choicest pasta, delicious sauces, tasty appetizers, luxurious chocolates and many
more mouth-watering sweet and savoury culinary delights, all distinct for choice ingredients and exquisite packaging. All products at the Food Market can be packaged in one of our elegant Gift boxes. Should you need some advice, you can make an appointment with one of our personal shoppers that are at your disposal every day to help you put together a fantastic food hamper.
>> Rinascente www.rinascente.it Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. T: 055 219113 Piazza della Repubblica. Map F3
On the top floor you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Duomo while having a drink at la Terrazza bar & restaurant: at lunch you can enjoy a menu that includes pasta dishes of the day, the renowned pappa al pomodoro (tomato bread soup), Caprese salad, Niçoise with tuna, boiled egg and Greek olives with cucumber, feta cheese and black olives, raw meat and fish, sandwiches with fresh ingredients and seasonal produce. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.com 31
SHOPPING
ASPESI See page 25.
PASSION SHOPPING AquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www. aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5
Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3
La Ménagère
CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1
Marioluca Giusti A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant design objects for the table and more besides, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal 34 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
AQUAZZURA
DR. VRANJES
See this page.
glass and melamine collections are enhanced every year with new models with colour shades ranging from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated by important international personalities such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www. smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2
The Merchant of Venice
NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3
See this page.
Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, soughtafter cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti. com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3
SHOES Aquazzura Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4
SHOPPING CENTER I Gigli 20 kilometres from Florence, the I Gigli shopping centre stretches over a surface area of 72,000 sq.m. with 134 shops by important Italian and international brands, including some exclusive to Tuscany such as Apple Store, 18 restaurants and bars, a 16-screen Multiplex Cinema, events, entertainment and services for adults and kids. igigli.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 9am-9pm. Via San Quirico 165, Campi Bisenzio (Florence). T: 055 8969250. Off Map
STATIONERY Pineider Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and design are the distinctive features of this brand, which is unique worldwide: from the printing of precious and embossed paper to articles made of fine leather, to elegant writing instruments. www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. Map E3
[ D A I LY T O U R S ]
Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO
Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby EmiliaRomagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.
BERGAMO BRESCIA
NOVARA
TRIESTE
MILANO
ALESSANDRIA TORINO
PIACENZA? Fidenza Village GENOVA
MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA
FORTE DEI MARMI
FERRARA
MAR
BOLOGNA ?
LUCCA
PISA
Castel Guelfo ADRIATICO The Style Outlets
Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE
FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO ? The Mall Firenze
LIVORNO
SIENA
Valdichiana
? Outlet Village
ANCONA
PERUGIA
BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side. • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm. • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station. 36 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of clothing and accessories for the whole family, CORSICA sportswear, items for the home and beauty products, with discounts of up to 70% on the retail price. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also hosts art exhibitions, lots of events and initiatives designed to involve the whole family. www.thestyleoutlets.it FIDENZA VILLAGE This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where SARDEGNA hospitality makes the shopping experience memorable. The Village is located in the EmiliaRomagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with unique hospitality at the core of the services and with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays homage to the region’s rich cultural and gastronomic heritage. After your day of shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge in delicious homemade pasta with fresh Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. www.fidenzavillage.com
THE MALL FIRENZE The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers a unique shopping experience. It is set in the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes from Florence. Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, ROMA July, August 10am-8pm). • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus NAPOLI service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door minivan service from centrally located hotels in Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance and footwear) featuring your favourite brands with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Chloé (June 2018 Opening). • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s shopping. www.themall.it VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping experience characterised by quality and convenience. It has several facilities and services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, the library and several food courts where the
best local food and wines are on offer. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle. • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour and many others. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it
Valdichiana Outlet Village
Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets
The Mall Firenze
Fidenza Village
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PHOTO © WWW.ALESSANDROMOGGI.COM
FOOD&WINE
Biscottificio Mattei, the cantucci king In the heart of Florence, a museum-shop where you can buy and taste the legendary dry almond biscuits and discover the history of the firm that has been manufacturing them for 160 years now. By Sophia Bertoli
T
here are foods that are so inherent in the collective culinary culture that they are taken completely for granted, as if they had always existed. Have you ever wondered who invented pizza, or spaghetti? Probably not; you eat them (and enjoy them) and that’s enough in itself. The same happens in Italy with cantucci, those very famous Tuscan almond biscuits that, when combined with the Italian dessert wine Vin Santo, have found their supreme vocation and what in Florence and the surrounding area forms the perfect conclusion to any meal worthy of the name. In this case, however, we know with 100% certainty who invented them. It was Antonio Mattei who baked the first cantuccio, in 1858, in his biscuit factory in 38 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
Prato, in the Province of Florence. Mattei won numerous awards for his creations; then, in 1908, he passed on the activity to Ernesto Pandolfini, who had worked with him for a long time and continued to demand the same quality level as the founder, also extending the range of products for sale over time. The Pandolfini family still runs the Biscottificio Mattei today, and now they have celebrated its 160 years of activity by opening a small museum/shop in the heart of Florence, at Via Porta Rossa, 76. In this welcoming, almost domestic space, where simplicity and elegance reign, it is possible to visit the historical archive of the Biscottificio Mattei and the Pandolfini family, with records, photographs, memorabilia and the packaging of yesteryear.
The space includes a small shop where you can purchase and taste all the Biscottificio’s products; in addition to the cantucci, these include “Filone Candito”, “Torta Mantovana” and “Brutti Buoni”, to name but a few. Enthusiasts can accompany the Mattei products with a good cup of coffee provided by the Antica Torrefazione Padovani di Prato, while the sacrosanct combination of “Cantucci and Vin Santo” is guaranteed by the wines of the Marchesi Antinori, traditional partners of Mattei for over 50 years now. >> Bottega-Museo Antonio Mattei Via Porta Rossa, 76/r. T: 055 0136203. www.antoniomattei.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
FOOD SHOPS Galanti Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside or to take away. Wide selection of wines and home-made jams. Everything made with extravirgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 490359. Off Map
Giumella
VEGAN With recipes based on the products of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen offers organic zero miles food, made the same day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. T: 393 8221084. Off Map
Pegna
Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it. It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via Carducci, where you can find the same specialities. Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2344397. Map L3
amidst little tables and large windows. Huge selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the whole of Florence. Open from lunch to aftersupper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2346296. Map L2
Pugi
Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. T: 055 660050. Off Map
Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925. Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map
WINE SHOPS Caffè 19.26 This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere
Enoteca Bonatti
Signorvino In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets across the country. It also does simple quality food from the various regions. The terrace has a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5
With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3
STREET FOOD Antico Vinaio If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5
Cucciolo
PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, famed in the city for more than 40 years for its “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate. Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a ramp in full sight before depositing them directly in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; FriSun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r. T: 055 287727. Map G3
Pescepane
FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The delicious and creative menu varies each day depending on the availability of ingredients, using sustainable and high quality produce, often organic, with vegetables of the season and homemade sauces. Apart from the great food there is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar
The perfect place for an out-of-town stop Good, genuine food, a relaxed yet classy style and the magnificence of the Italian countryside all around you. There is everything you’d expect from Tuscany at Chiosco ai Renai, a rural eatery where it is possible to enjoy the tastes of the tradition, good wine and also a choice of original cocktails. With a garden with panoramic views and an internal dining room, the place is a reference point for those looking for tourist information, for those wishing to purchase a selection of organic products or for those hoping to come across a small art exhibition or to listen to a little live music. But, above all, it is an adorable place to stop by yourself, with your partner, family or friends, amid hammocks and tables, wine glasses and chopping boards, with Tuscany all around you. Lunches, aperitifs and snacks are all served over the course of the day. The eating place is located in Castelfiorentino, around 30 kilometres from Florence, in Val d’Elsa; it is also known as “little Florence” on account of its strategic importance in Florentine history and its wealth of architectural heritage. Chiosco ai Renai. Castelfiorentino (1 hour from Florence) - Via del Vallone, 34. Mob. 329 8938692
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PHOTO © HOTEL PHOTOGRAPHY SRL
DINING
Irene, a cuisine with a woman’s touch Simple, genuine flavours for a menu inspired by the classics of the Tuscan tradition, with a wholly female lightness and elegance as the watchwords. By Chiara Zaccarelli
I
rene is the grandmother of Lydia Forte, Restaurant & Bar Development Manager at Rocco Forte Hotels, who has personally handled the concept of the restaurant. Irene is an elegant woman, an excellent cook and a perfect host and the bistro bearing her name inevitably had to be a celebration of femininity and its many facets. «The cuisine is a story of women» – underlines chef Fulvio Pierangelini, inventor of the dishes at Irene – «We men have appropriated this intimate place and, even though we’ve been successful, we are still intruders. It’s the women who hold the beauty of the gesture». The bistro is a family story, a story of generations working together, combining tradition and modernity, and it is no coincidence that its retrochic design is by Olga Polizzi, Design Director
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at Rocco Forte Hotels and Irene’s daughter. Sited inside the historic Hotel Savoy, recently renovated, it looks out onto Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of Florence. The vintage 1950s atmosphere, with prints and fabrics in the tones of green and yellow, blends perfectly with the contemporary style of the chandelier, composed of coloured cylinders. The menu, created by Fulvio Pierangelini and translated into practice by Head Chef Giovanni Cosmai, is based on high-quality local and seasonal raw materials, interpreted with great respect. Obviously the choice of dishes inevitably makes reference to the personality of grandmother Irene. Her feminine, irreverent touch is expressed to the maximum in “Red prawns tatare, ricotta cheese and artichokes”, in “Homemade ravioli stuffed with pappa al
pomodoro and Tuscan pecorino cheese” or in “Seafood grill cooked on Himalayan salt stone”. >> Irene Restaurant c/o Hotel Savoy. Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 27351. www.roccofortehotels.com
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TUSCAN CUISINE 13 Gobbi Trattoria
In the heart of the old centre just steps away from the Lungarno, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi occupies a historic building where it offers authentic reinterpretations of the most genuine Tuscan recipes. Among the specialities of the house, rigatoni (served in a traditional stoneware tureen) and the inevitable bistecca alla fiorentina. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/ trattoria-13-gobbi. Via del Porcellana, 9/r. T: 055 284015. Map D3
Benedicta
EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. T:055 2645429. Map D2
Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5
Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5
Cibrèo Ristorante In Florence and in the area near the Market of Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly
seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100. Map L3
Cibrèo Trattoria A few yards from the Cibrèo Ristorante (see listing), if you turn the corner, you find the trattoria that the Florentines call “Cibrèino”. Here you will find a substantial Tuscan menu, not very different from that of the restaurant, but with an atmosphere and a service that are more informal and at decidedly lower cost. Remember that it is not possible to book in advance here, so take into account that you will have to wait a while before being seated to eat. €€. www. cibreo.com/trattoria. Via de’ Macci, 122/r. Map L3
Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map
Fuor d’acqua The cuisine of the Tuscan tradition also includes fish dishes. And in this restaurant in the historic centre you can find the true taste of the sea thanks to the fish that arrives daily from Viareggio. The quality raw materials are cooked in the essential way, as in the Catalana and paccheri alla Trabaccolara and the main courses based on the day’s catch. €€€. www.fuordacqua.it. Via Pisana, 37/r. T: 055 222299. Map A3
IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4
La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable
prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1
Latini (Il) Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www. illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3
Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails, accompanied by small snacks, or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3
Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6
L’Ortone Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4
Maccheroncino (Il) Those who don’t eat meat in Florence might encounter a few difficulties, but luckily there are also some excellent fish restaurants. Il Maccheroncino
L’ORTONE L’Ortone is in Piazza Ghiberti, opposite the charming Sant’Ambrogio street market. The menu draws inspiration from Tuscan cuisine (painstakingly revisited) and offers a wide choice of antipasti, first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the bistecca alla fiorentina. Opened in 2014, it has always relied on young but expert and professional staff. A good mix of elegance and sobriety. Open daily.
www.lortone.it Piazza L. Ghiberti, 87/r. T: 055 2340804.
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Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Florence. By Jasmine Piazza
Hostaria Bibendum Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines from a cantina of 900 labels. Flora & Fauno c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.hotelvillesullarno.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other times sticking to tradition. Golden Restaurant c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 www.goldentowerhotel.it The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings and fittings. Gourmet Restaurant c/o Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 www.sinahotels.com Tuscan specialities in a fabulous setting. A mix of culinary tradition and fancy comprising reinventions of fine Tuscan cuisine, in the
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sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and restored to its former splendour. Hostaria Bibendum c/o Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.starhotelscollezione.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with a penchant for local producers and ingredients. Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honeylacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass.
The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and Trattoria al fresco. Irene c/o Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 www.roccofortehotels.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle building with an extraordinary collection of art works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and seasonal products. J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar c/o JK Place Firenze Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 www.jkplace.com Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. La Cucina del Salviatino c/o Il Salviatino Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 www.salviatino.com Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong links to the local territory and the seasons, with a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero food miles. Le Bistrot c/o Villa Cora Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.villacora.it The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of
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Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves poolside to the winter garden. Relais Le Jardin c/o Hotel Regency Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 www.regency-hotel.com Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the highest quality. Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Bernini Palace Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a
16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also offers international dishes. Ristorante La Loggia c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.belmond.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the visit just for its magnificent position looking over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic Italian dishes. Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes.
Se•Sto on Arno c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 www.westinflorence.com Local flavours and seasonal products for a Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by sweeping picture windows that make the most of the unique position and breathtaking view over the city. Villa La Vedetta c/o Villa La Vedetta Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 www.villalavedettahotel.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too. Winter Garden by Caino c/o The Saint Regis Florence Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their original take on tiramisù.
Il Conventino a Marignolle
Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant
Gourmet Restaurant
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Michelin-starred restaurants
Bottega del Buon Caffè
Il Palagio
In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. By Sophia Bertoli
Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is unmissable) or à la carte. Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r T: 055 5535677 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme.
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Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87 T: 055 242757 enotecapinchiorri.it How do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses. Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99 T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times
venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a T: 055 0680545 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains. Ora d’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r T: 055 20016 9 www.oradariaristorante.com An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.
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Ora d’Aria
Borgo San Jacopo
Winter Garden by Caino c/o Hotel Saint Regis Piazza Ognissanti, 1 T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by Caino has come about from the creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative way, with elements from every part of the globe, ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes and the taste buds.
Winter Garden by Caino
La Leggenda dei Frati
Enoteca Pinchiorri
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Florentine foods termes ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities of peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so niche as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find your way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even though presented like that it seems to be an inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully - to export it to France and it seems she was so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a number of times.
Lampredotto
CANTUCCI This is one of the best-known cake recipes in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of baked dough while still hot. The dough is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds, not toasted or shelled. Tuscans normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Santo made from dried grapes. You can find them in any bakery or local foods shop. CIBREO A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical main course of Florentine “poor
is a small seafood bistro located outside the tourist circuits, in the Rifredi neighbourhood. Fish dishes according to availability and typical products of the cuisine of Le Marche are prepared here with fresh and seasonal ingredients. €€. www.ilmaccheroncino. it. Via Reginaldo Giuliani, 43/r. T: 388 7575928. Off Map
Marione Trattoria The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, because there is usually a long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www. 46 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
LAMPREDOTTO This is Florentine street food par excellence. But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs. Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and most commonly served in a panino soaked in the broth or topped with the local parsleybased green sauce. Historically a poor man’s dish, it is still very popular in Florence today thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks known as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring trade with Florentines as well as tourists who can’t wait to try this speciality, accompanied by the obligatory glass of wine. PAPPA COL POMODORO On the face of it this is just another variant of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess how good it is. Everyone loves this tasty,
casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3
Opera Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music background of the most important operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2
Osteria Badalì Located in the heart of a rather quiet district,
Ribollita
genuine dish, including the kids. So much so there’s even a popular children’s song all about it. RIBOLLITA Another delicious country dish typical of Florence and the whole of central Tuscany is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times. The name derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over a number of days, each time tastier than before.
Pappa col pomodoro
San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking times and essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www. badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6
Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and
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The “fiorentina”
fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3
private room guests can also dine on tatami. €€€€. www.kokorestaurant.it. Piazza F. Ferrucci, 4/5 r. T: 055 6587428. Off Map
Tuscani 3 (I)
Momoyama
If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4
One of Florence’s historic Japanese restaurants, where alongside the classic sushi and sashimi there are rolls with creative combinations, soups, raw meats and fish, chicken teriyaki, udon and other hot dishes, in the tradition of the Rising Sun. Located over the Arno in the cool San Frediano district, on weekdays at lunchtime it turns into a noodle bar. €€€€. www.ristorantemomoyama.it. Borgo S. Frediano, 10. T: 055 291840. Map D4
Zeb
Buca Mario
Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence cuisine. But be careful: to recognize the original and tell it apart from the hundreds of impostors, there are a few tips you need to know. Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual with unwritten rules that the visitor needs to know to avoid falling foul of the restaurant owner, paying over the odds and to make sure they get the real thing. WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained from a specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone in the middle. It should be grilled at a very high temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: a fiorentina must be eaten rare. HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily available. And here is another sore point. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight. An average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo. WITH. The traditional accompaniment is usually cannellini beans, washed down with a glass of Chianti. WHERE. Here are four restaurants where you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ ristorante-perseus-firenze). (C.Z.)
Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia. com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6
CANTINE Antica Mescita San Niccolò Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6
Buca Lapi This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3
Buca Mario For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: 055 214179. Map D3
INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE Koko Sophisticated chic and fine Japanese cuisine off the main tourist circuits. Besides the classic raw fish dishes (vast selection of tartare, carpacci, sushi and sashimi) Koko’s particular speciality is teppanyaki – various ingredients cooked on an iron griddle. In the
Rooster Firenze
NEW OPENING A new arrival in the Rooster family, which already boasts one American-style bar in the city. The concept is that of the restaurant/ cocktail bar, just a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, serving classic American meals such as hamburgers, ribs and BBQ, using prime Tuscan ingredients, preferably organically sourced. €. www. roosterfirenze.com. Via Porta Rossa, 63/r. T:055 2645006. Map F4
PIZZA O’Munaciello Housed in a 17th-century monastery in the historic Santo Spirito quarter, it recreates the atmosphere of a Naples street, complete with hanging washing and masks typical of Neapolitan Commedia dell’arte. Besides wood oven pizzas, here you can try other traditional Campania dishes, with products from small producers and consortiums situated along the coast. Every Wednesday night there’s live music (Neapolitan). €. www.munaciello.com. Via Maffia 31/r. T: 055 287198. Map D5
Pizza Man Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does glutenfree and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 2480200. Map H4
Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3
Pizzeria Spera One of Florence’s favourite pizzeria’s even won the world’s pizza championship a few years ago. This simple and intimate little place just outside the old centre serves a light crispy pizza with a choice of different types of bread dough and a full range of quality toppings. €. www.pizzeriaspera.it. Via della Cernaia, 9/r. T: 055 495286. Off Map
Santarpia In a room decorated with blue and brown handpainted tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c.T: 055245829. Map L3 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47
ENTERTAINMENT
Antinori wine experience The Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico region combines an age-old family tradition with an avant-garde structure, for an immersive experience going far beyond simple wine-tasting. By Chiara Zaccarelli
I
mmersed in the extraordinary Chianti landscape, amid gentle hills, endless vineyards and old olive-groves, the Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico Region welcomes you with its ultramodern architecture and all the ancient know-how of the Antinori Marquises. About 45 minutes by car from Florence, this low environmental impact, high energy-saving structure overlooks the surrounding countryside where Sangiovese grapes are grown (together with the other varieties of grape that have historically been placed alongside them). Here it is possible to experience delights of the senses by immersing yourself in an itinerary that is architectural, gustatory and emotional at the same time, revealing the majesty of the wine 48 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
cellar and the elegance of Antinori wines. Various tasting itineraries are available: from the simpler one, for those approaching the world of Marchesi Antinori to the more complete one, which includes a tasting of seven wines and lunch at the “Rinuccio 1180” restaurant, located on the roof of the Cantina. To complete the visit, it is possible to visit the “Futuro Antico” space, where a part of the family collection is exhibited. The Antinori Family has been dedicated to producing wines for more than six hundred years now, managing the activity with innovative choices, but maintaining an unchanged respect for the traditions and for the territory. >> antinorichianticlassico.it
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APERITIVI Chiaroscuro Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Florentines today are attracted by the original and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro. it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3
Easy living Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www. easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4
Il Locale Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, located in a small street not far from the Duomo. Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3
(more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5
and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5
Three Sixty
“The right food from the right places” is the motto of this little restaurant where the quality and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original and genuine light lunch, with the option of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. T: 055 242327. Map H5
From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2
Zoe Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft lighting. For years a favourite with the younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. Map H6
BRUNCH Ditta Artigianale Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon
Foody Farm
Odeon Bistrot Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4
Procacci This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere,
Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6
Moyo Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4
Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4
Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4
Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3
Signorvino This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines
Flying over Tuscany If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic tour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a ADVERTORIAL company recognized by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes. Various launch points – located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills – enable you to personalize your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of historical and cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. www.balloonintuscany.com
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ENTERTAINMENT with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3
Teatro del Sale
Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 212320. Map H4
Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co-founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3
Teatro Goldoni
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES
The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts and operas are performed in a contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. Off Map
Teatro Comunale The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back to the second half of the 19th century. www. operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. Map B2
Teatro Verdi The largest "Italian-style" theatre in Tuscany is located in Florence, in the historic district of
Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, the theatre experienced a period of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a historical design by Italian director and actor Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6
Teatro del Maggio
Stazione Leopolda Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway station: it was decommissioned, and today has become a sought-after venue for meetings, conferences and various events. A versatile, multifunctional space, it has its name associated with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of the event that launched the career of Florentine politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1
Visarno Arena It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it has already hosted, among others, concerts by David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa Maria Novella). Off Map
WELLNESS Bené SPA This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected to the main hotel complex by an underground tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, small gym, sauna, hammam and three large private cabins for personalised treatments. The crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: tailored face treatment products by beauty guru Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www. villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Off Map
Firenze Number Nine This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. Very well known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 293777. Map F3
Four Seasons SPA A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments for teens and children also available. The supermodern fitness centre is located in the quiet of the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1
Golden Beauty & SPA This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to outside guests as the beauty centre annex every day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4
Il Villino SPA
THE FLORENTINE MAGGIO MUSICALE The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it
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A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino is a unique spa, studded with original details, luxury materials, and hand-made decorations by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map
ENTERTAINMENT
SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY
Bagni San Filippo
Bagni San Filippo A small town not far from the slopes of Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its sulphur waters, which were used by the Etruscans, and for the white calcareous deposits that form the small, spectacular hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. Unlike the well-being and spa treatment centre, access to this area is free of charge. Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). Bagno Vignoni This tiny ancient stone village has one unique and unforgettable characteristic: at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not for bathing) where the spar waters are collected, gushing out at a temperature of 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative steam during the cold months. Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae.
Bagno Vignoni
A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of (E.P.) relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions.
www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 889001. Castello di Velona An 11th-century fortress transformed into a residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The indoor and outdoor swimming pools (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) use water from a nearby thermal spring originating on Mount Amiata. Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Grotta Giusti The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave that winds its way among stalactites and stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear water, the temperatures of which vary from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the
metabolism of the blood vessels. Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. San Casciano dei Bagni Classified among the “Most Beautiful Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo are ancient washtubs where it is possible to bathe freely, while there are indoor and outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered by a magical garden with views of Mount Amiata. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena). T: 0578 57241. Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino Among the most beautiful free thermal baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino are small natural pools supplied by small waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable environment. Next to them, the Terme di Saturnia complex has spring water pools, a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-delmulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. Terme di Petriolo The thermal baths are sited on a natural spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the course of the River Farma. The waters, rich in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059.
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
The work of a whole lifetime
F
or 28 years, his “Große Kugelkaryatide”, known by all as “The Sphere”, was mirrored on a stretch of water between the two skyscrapers in the Plaza of the World Trade Center, a symbol of world peace and trade. Perhaps Fritz Koenig’s best known work, found among the ruins of the terrorist attack damaged but not destroyed, it was returned to the WTC in 2017, a few months after its creator’s death. Among the most important sculptors of the twentieth century, Koenig is now celebrated with a major monographic exhibition, the first since he passed away, with a large number of his works being hosted in the magnificent green spaces of the Boboli Gardens and the rooms of the Uffizi, from the monumental sculptures to the drawings, also including, for the first time,
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the works of the last forty years of his life. This is a unique opportunity to admire the bronze, stone and corten steel of Koenig’s imposing sculptures amid the spaces of that Italian-style garden par excellence, glancing at the precious interweaving of their forms – whether smooth or rough, apparently unstable but in reality in a studied imbalance – and the hedges, large trees and lawns of Boboli: a backdrop of panoramas as unique as Renaissance paintings. >> Fritz Koenig 1924-2017. The Retrospective 21 June-7 October. www.uffizi.it The exhibition is included in the tickets of the Uffizi and the Boboli Gardens. The Uffizi, Piazzale degli Uffizi Giardino di Boboli, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1.
PHOTO © TONI OTT
One of his best known works has come to symbolise the rebirth of Ground Zero: Fritz Koenig, among the greatest contemporary sculptors, is celebrated by the Uffizi with a major retrospective. By Elena Peverata
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Elena Peverata Lifestyle & Culture Editor Where ® Italia
Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4
Palazzo Vecchio
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Duomo and Cupola Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/56. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Ponte Vecchio There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5
Corridoio Vasariano The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio,
finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings created between the 17th and 19th centuries and an important collection of self-portraits by great artists including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5
Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their maximum splendour, then by the HabsburgLorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno (on the left bank of the river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It is from the latter that the famous Boboli Gardens take their name; they are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum on account of their admirable architectural and landscaped layout and their collection of sculptures, attracting approximately 800 thousand visitors a year. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6
Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the treelined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the
FIRENZECARD
Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic squarebased bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3
Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the
Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit • Priority access to museums without needing to book • 72 hours available www.firenzecard.it
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“Rampe del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi in the neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7
San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle Porte Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. The interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. www. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map
Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century in the period in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit located between piazza del Mercato Centrale and via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino and via Panicale. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1
Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli and for this reason was celebrated by the Italian romantic poet Ugo Foscolo as a temple of “italic glories”. www. santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4
Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www. smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2
Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian
order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is, on the left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi and conserves elegant and austere rationality in its architectural plan. In the interior there is also a wooden crucifix carved by a young Michelangelo. www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5
San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Basilica di San Lorenzo This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the current appearance of which is the result of the radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred goldsmithery and paintings from the 15th to the 20th century, and is structured into the Basilica (with the Old Sacristy and the Treasure Museum), the Medici Chapels (which form a separate museum, see the relative indications) with the New Sacristy and the Museum, in the Laurentian Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October 1.30pm5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November to 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and 15 August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2
Basilica di Santa Croce
UFFIZI GALLERY LEONARDO ROOM Before leaving for Milan in 1482, Leonardo had taken his first artistic steps in Florence in the workshop of Verrocchio. Three precious works from this formative period are held in the Uffizi and now find a new location in the museum’s renovated Room 35, the layout design of which recalls the walls of the churches of the period for which the paintings were created. www.uffizi.it
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A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th century), it owes its sober appearance, with wooden trusses and terracotta floors, to the Franciscan order. The Basilica, the cloisters, the Sacristy, the Pazzi Chapel and the Museum of Opera are all part of the visitors’ itinerary. Mention must be made in particular of the sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and Galileo Galilei, the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi and Peruzzi Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by Taddeo Gaddi ( The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) by Donatello ( The Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint Louis of Toulouse), by Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and Castellani Chapels) and by Cimabue (the famous Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun and holidays 2pm-5.30pm. Closed 1 January, Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 December. www.
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santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16 (visitors’ entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 2466105. Map I5
Biblioteca Marucelliana A precious archive of rare pieces established between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, manuscripts and prints. The ancient reading rooms, including the magnificent and spectacular “Salone”, are visitable during opening hours or with a guided visit (by booking in advance). Open Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 24 June, 15 August and 2 weeks in the second half of August, 1 November, 8 and 25-26 December. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 2722200. Map G1
Palazzo Pitti Museums
Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows were created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by the Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Sat, Sun and holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2
Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access is permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum of 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open MonSat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224558-2382195. Map C5
Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part (see entry). The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition to the remains of the Lorena family, contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder, founder of the dynasty. The museum also holds a part of the Treasure of the Basilica: sacred vestments and magnificent shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; from 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket
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Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana
A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary building (see Attractions&Monuments) is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently contains four different museums. Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground floor and mezzanine) Conserved in what were the summer apartments of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an important collection of jewels created between the 17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section dedicated to contemporary jewellery. Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”,
the Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens. Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Today the sumptuous environments that were once the residence of the Lorena family house paintings and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school. Museum of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items, including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery. Included among the costumes are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and their son. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883.
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price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana. org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2
Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea del Castagno and paintings from the monastery are also on display in the museum. Open daily 8.15am1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and Sunday of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 2388608/610.Off Map
Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3
Fondazione Salvatore Romano The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo (14th century) of the convent, built beside the church of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of which is recalled by the imposing fourteenth-
century fresco by Andrea Orcagna that decorates its eastern wall, with fragments of a Last Supper at the bottom and a superb Crucifixion at the top. The museum houses works donated to the Municipality of Florence in 1946 by collector and antiquarian Salvatore Romano, a precious collection of sculptures, fragments of architectural decoration, detached frescos and furnishings of various origins and from periods between the ancient Roman Age and the 17th century. Entry to the Cenacolo is gained directly from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the left of the façade of the church. The museum is contained entirely within the vast setting of the Cenacolo. Open Mon and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5
Forte di Belvedere At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to incorporate a villa to be used as a “belvedere” by the Grand Duke’s court. Despite its strategic position, it was never used for defensive purposes; however, a vault was created in the underground floors to house the state treasury. The fort currently hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7
Galleria degli Uffizi The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between
Flemish Astronomical ring dial (ca. 1550) from the Medici collection hosted at the MUSEO GALILEO. 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces of the art of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Canaletto. There are also important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5
Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises, which were originally two convents, are works coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €8. www. galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2
Galleria Rinaldo Carnielo
MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI This new museum - which was the first orphanage in Europe (15th century) - opened to the public in 2016 and combines art, architecture and the history of Childhood all together. Its museum itinerary is developed around the theme of welcoming. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it
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Conserved in the townhouse in Liberty style that was the home-studio of Rinaldo Carnielo (1853-1910) are over three hundred sculptures by the artist and a number of paintings by artists who were his contemporaries, such as Silvestro Lega, Michele Gordigiani and Arturo Calosci. An exponent of late 19th-century commemorative statuary, Carnielo had close relations with the environment of the Macchiaioli, of whom he was a friend and passionate collector. Museum temporarily closed to the public. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Savonarola, 3. Off Map
Gino Bartali Cycling Museum The museum is located at Ponte a Ema, the locality where the great cycling champion Gino Bartali was born and began his competitive career. The building, completed in 2006, contains a store of cycles from various periods, enabling visitors to
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
recognise their technical evolution, the actual museum, with displays of velocipedes, bicycles, clothing and relics documenting the history of cycling and the feats of Gino Bartali and other champions, and finally collections of period newspapers, publications and films. Open Fri-Sat 10am-1pm, Sun and holidays: 10pm-4pm. Closed 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via Chiantigiana, 175 - Ponte a Ema (30 minutes from Florence). T: 055 287043. Off Map
Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1
Museo del Bigallo The headquarters of two ancient benevolent institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3
city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces such as Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, The Genius of Victory by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s Cherub. Open daily, from 1 April to 30 September: 9am-11pm; from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed on 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €10. www. museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Museo di Santa Maria Novella The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. The Ubriachi Chapel and ancient Refectory house a permanent exhibition of gold jewellery, sacred furnishings and liturgical vestments, part of the church’s ancient Treasury, plus a series of paintings. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm (from 1 April to 30 September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 March). Fridays throughout the year: open from 11am. Saturdays throughout the year 9am-5.30pm; Sundays and Holidays 1pm-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €7.50.
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www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187.Map E3
Museo di Storia Naturale - "La Specola" Zoology Section Opened to the public in 1775, “La Specola” is one of Europe’s oldest science museums. It possesses a collection of over 3.5 million animals (5,000 exhibited to the public) and the largest collection in the world of 18th-century anatomical waxworks illustrating the entire human body in every detail (visitable by booking in advance, T: 055 2756444). Open Tues-Sun 9.30am-6.30pm (1 Oct-31 May), Tues-Sun 10.30am5.30pm (1 Jun-30 Sept). Closed on Mondays and 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.msn.unifi.it. Via Romana, 17. T: 055 2755100. Map H1
Museo Galileo Housed in the historic Palazzo Castellani, its unique collections include ancient scientific instruments datable between the 11th and 19th centuries, including all of Galileo Galilei’s original instruments. One group consists of the collection of instruments of the Medici dynasty, the other of the objects subsequently gathered together by the Grand Dukes of Lorraine. Open daily 9.30am-6pm, Tues 9.30am-1pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price € 9. www.museogalileo.it. Piazza dei Giudici, 1. T: 055 265311. Map G5
Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semiprecious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1
Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the
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The Museum houses works designed and built for the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Bell Tower and the Baptistery: it is a unique collection, with masterpieces by Arnolfo di Cambio, Ghiberti, Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Antonio Pollaiolo, Verrocchio and Michelangelo, in addition to paintings, goldsmithery, liturgical vestments, ancient work tools, models and architectural projects. Open daily 9am-8pm. Closed: 1st Tuesday of the month, 1 January, Easter, 25 December. Single ticket for the Museum and all the monuments of the Duomo (Dome, Baptistery, Giotto’s Bell Tower): €18 (online). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 9 (ticket office Piazza San Giovanni, 7). T: 055 2302885. Map G2
An evening with Michelangelo Every Tuesday and Thursday in summer, the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence extends its opening hours to 10pm, enabling you to stroll among its many masterpieces feeling cooler and more relaxed. This important museum owes its huge popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above all the famous David, an icon of Florence, the symbol of male beauty and perfection. The one on display at the Accademia is the original work, and was moved here for its protection in 1873 from Piazza della Signoria, where it was replaced by a faithful copy. Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze. Open until 10pm, until 25 September. Via Ricasoli 58/60. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
EXCLUSIVE FLORENCE MAP by Where® Italia Hand-drawn with Indian ink and watercolours, using the ‘bird’s eye view’ technique. Illustrator Mario Camerini is currently working on reproducing remarkable maps of Italian cities.
Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace) that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Among its most significant works are St. Michael the Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Closed on 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427. Map G6
Museo Stibbert
THE MAP CAN BE PURCHASED IN TWO FORMATS. 140X100cm or 70X100cm. €100 + courier costs
info@whereitalia.com become an example for many European courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum (see entry). Open daily 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May-Sept), 8.15am4.30pm (Jan-Feb-Nov-Dec), 8.15am-9.30pm (Jun-JulAug), 8.15am-5.30pm in March, 8.15am-6.30pm in October. Closed first and last Monday of the month. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price: €10 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6
Museo Nazionale del Bargello This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the Grand Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts” (bronzes, Majolica ware, jewellery, ivories, medals, fabrics and antique weaponry). Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. From 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali. it/musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 58 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
Museo Novecento The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale di San Paolo (13th century), which was later the Scuole Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the Italian art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of around 300 works representing that unrepeatable artistic season that saw Florence at the centre of the international cultural scene. Structured in reverse chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia workstations, sound devices and video rooms along with the works themselves. From 1 October to 31 March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, Thurs 11am-2pm. From 1 April to 30 September: MonTues-Wed-Sat-Sun 11am-8pm, Thurs 11am-2pm, Fri 11am-11pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €8.50. www.museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10. T: 055 286132/055 217158. Map D3
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www. ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4
One of the most fascinating and unusual places in Florence, it is a Neo-Gothic castle built by Frederick Stibbert (1838-1906) with exceptional collections, including weaponry, art objects and everyday items from European, Islamic and Far Eastern civilisations, particularly Japanese, portraits, but also great masterpieces by Botticelli, Crivelli, Bronzino, Suttermans and others. Eclectic taste characterises the sumptuous private apartments and the park, decorated with groves, pavilions, statues, artificial ruins and a small Egyptian temple. Open MonTues-Wed 10am-2pm; Fri-Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Thursdays, 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €8. Visits are run every hour for accompanied, groups of 25 people. www. museostibbert. it. Via Stibbert, 26. T: 055 475520. Off Map
Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that
The bronze statue of Perseus holding the head of Medusa (Benvenuto Cellini, 1545-1554) is located at the LOGGIA DEI LANZI in PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA.
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Museum of Sculptures (first and second floor): open Mon (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am-12.30). Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4
| SIGHTSEEING
Sunday 2 September: free admission to State Museums
Palazzo Medici Riccardi Four centuries of the history of art, architecture and collections in a single building, one of the most beautiful in Florence; built in the mid-15th century by Michelozzo at the wishes of the Medici, it is the prototype of Renaissance civil architecture. Its jewel is the Magi Chapel, which you enter by climbing the elegant seventeenth-century staircase. Open daily 8.30am-7pm. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Cavour, 3. T: 055 2760340. Map F2
Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower (see all in "Attractions&Monuments"), together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (see entry) are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. The visiting times of the monuments are different and vary depending on the day. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3
Villa Bardini and Gardens The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Bardini Gardens: open daily 8.15am-4.30pm (Nov-Feb); 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May, Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm (Jun-Aug). Closed first and last Monday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Porcelain Museum Housed at the top of the Boboli Gardens, in the 18thcentury Palazzina del Cavaliere at the centre of the Rose Garden, are the collections of table porcelains of the ruling houses that succeeded each other at Pitti Palace, representing Italian and European production: from the Manifattura di Doccia, founded by the Ginori family, to the porcelains of Sèvres and Meissen. For address, opening and closing times, see Museo Giardini di Boboli. Map F7
Botticelli Room, Galleria degli Uffizi
Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Florence, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 2 September. GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI www.uffizi.it • Gli Uffizi piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 • Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe via della Ninna, 5 • Palazzo Pitti Museums Porcelain Museum, Tesoro dei Granduchi Giardino di Boboli, Galleria Palatina and Royal Apartments, Museo della Moda e del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna piazza Pitti, 1 MUSEI DEL BARGELLO www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it • Museo delle Cappelle Medicee piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 • Museo Nazionale del Bargello via del Proconsolo, 4
• Museo di Casa Martelli via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 • Museo di Palazzo Davanzati via Porta Rossa, 13 • Museo di Orsanmichele via Arte della Lana, 1 • Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto a San Salvi www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di San Salvi, 16 • Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it via Ricasoli, 58-60 • Giardino della Villa di Castello www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di Castello, 44 • MAF-Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Firenze museoarcheologiconazionaledifirenze. wordpress.com piazza S.S. Annunziata, 9 • Parco di Villa Il Ventaglio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Giovanni Aldini, 10/12. • Villa Medicea della Petraia www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via della Petraia, 40. • Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Ponti Medicei, 7 - Cerreto Guidi
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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ESSENTIALS
The museum city Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.
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lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of alleyways and sidestreets, derives from its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces remain. With less than four hundred thousand inhabitants and covering an area of little more than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you can also count on quite an efficient public transport network (which, however, is severely limited during the nighttime hours, so take care after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic points, whereas private cars are usually 60 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 018
only allowed into the centre to load and unload your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your concierge, also so you can receive indications of where the car parks are located in the centre). To find your way around the city, it is a good idea to keep well in mind that Florence is developed along the two banks of the River Arno. All the roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on the other side of the river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally outside the historic centre, but today it contains important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the
Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity that is gradually disappearing, but some traces of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were divided between “black”, which denoted he residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with the highest tourist density on the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or have them book for you at your hotel). You should also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an early bird then that could give you a significant advantage. (E.B.)
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
Emergency
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE
AMBULANCE T: 118 POLICE T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.
T: 055 49771.
Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it
www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650
Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.
trenitalia.com. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.
www.italotreno.it.
Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” FLR - (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” PSA - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it
Getting around Florence ATAF Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram: the ticket must be validated using the machines on the bus. Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or trains. Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 5650555). The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence. The entire historic centre of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19th-
century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter.
Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard. 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 61
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Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
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Museo Archeologico
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Museo Leonardo da Vinci
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Mugello 30km
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PIAZZA SAN LORENZO
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PIAZZA DELLA SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIA
Galleria dell’Accademia
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Palazzo Medici Riccardi
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Chiesa La SS. Annunziata di Firenze
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