GUIDE TO LONDON ®
AUGUST 2018
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
THE BEAUTIFUL GAME
PLUS
Get your kicks at the greatest football stadiums
NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL GUIDE GLEN MATLOCK’S LONDON HOTSPOTS
FIT FOR A QUEEN
How to visit royal residences
e v f o L o t r A
The
Tate Modern celebrates the life and love of Pablo Picasso
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E N T E R TA I N M E N T
SHOPPING
DINING
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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
August
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’
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GUIDE TO LONDON ®
AUGUST 2018
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
THE BEAUTIFUL GAME
PLUS
Get your kicks at the greatest football stadiums
NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL GUIDE GLEN MATLOCK’S LONDON HOTSPOTS
FIT FOR A QUEEN
How to visit royal residences
Art of Love
The
Tate Modern celebrates the life and love of Pablo Picasso
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E N T E R TA I N M E N T
SHOPPING
DINING
MAPS 13/07/2018 14:53
ON THE COVER
Visit Tate Modern and its Picasso exhibition. Image courtesy of Tate Modern
The Guide 20 SIGHTSEEING From Clarence House to Buckingham Palace, here’s how you can step inside the capital’s royal residences. 42 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Get outdoors! Take in al fresco art at the Serpentine Pavilion, and see the latest statue in Parliament Square. 50 ENTERTAINMENT As new and classic films are screened outside across the city, find out where you can experience some movie magic under the stars.
NELSON MANDELA © LOUISE GUBB/CORBIS SABA-CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES; GLEN MATLOCK COURTESY OF HUSH PR; CARAMEL COURTESY OF CARAMEL; CAFÉ DE PARIS COURTESY OF CAFÉ DE PARIS; WEMBLEY STADIUM © ISTOCK
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66 SHOPPING Whether it’s street food festivals or pop-up stalls, here are some shopping events with a twist.
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Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW We take a look at this month’s most exciting events, including the Rugby League Cup Final, Britney Spears in concert and a craft beer festival.
10 THE PREMIER EXPERIENCE
14 SEVEN THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT PICASSO As Tate Modern celebrates one of the world’s greatest artists, it’s time to discover lesser-known facts about this modern master.
As the Premier League kicks off, find out how you can explore famous football stadiums and discover the history behind the beautiful game.
16 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE
12 CELEBRATE CARNIVAL
90 MY PERFECT DAY
It’s time to join Europe’s biggest street party, Notting Hill Carnival, and cheer on the parade.
The Sex Pistols star Glen Matlock shares his favourite spots in London.
Keep kids entertained with presents from iconic stores, from Harrods to Hamleys.
TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.
In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.
70 DINING Enjoy a taste of Italy at the latest restaurant by Heinz Beck, a chef with three Michelin stars. 80 NIGHTLIFE Visit Café de Paris for a spectacular cabaret show with acrobats and burlesque dancers. 84 WELLBEING As the weather heats up, dive right into London’s most luxurious pools. 86 ESSENTIALS The McDowell family of concierges share their travel tips on how to make the most of your trip. 88 MAP A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3
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TOT_WhereLondon_Hard Rock_251x118mm_050718.qxp_Layout 1 05/07/2018 14:34 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936
KIDS EAT FREE THIS SUMMER WITH HARD ROCK CAFE LONDON & THE ORIGINAL TOUR
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Vol. No. 44 Issue No. 8 ISSN 0951 323X
4 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2018
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Welcome Summer in the city You have chosen one of the best months to visit: London is basking in glorious weather, and the city comes alive with events that only take place in the summer, from classic films being screened outdoors (p. 50) to one of the world’s biggest and best street parties (p. 12). If you’re a football fan, don’t despair that the World Cup is over. The Premier League begins, and, as London is home to many famous football teams, it’s a great time to find out more about the beautiful game and tour stadiums (p. 10). Did you know that the sport originated in medieval times when villagers kicked a pig’s bladder around? Few people realise that they can step inside the homes of the royal family. This month it’s all about Clarence House, home to the Prince of Wales and Duchess of Cornwall. Also, instead of standing outside the gates of Buckingham Palace Palace, for a short period you can actually visit the spectacular State Rooms (p. 20). From royal London to rock and roll royalty: I had the pleasure of interviewing the Sex Pistol, Glen Matlock (pictured). He spoke to us about his favourite spots in the city and shared stories about his time performing here (p. 90). Whatever you choose to do, don’t forget to tell us on our social networks. Have a lovely summer holiday!
ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © ISTOCK
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London
Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon
St Paul’s Cathedral
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®
FAMILY FESTIVAL WEEKEND SATURDAY 4–SUNDAY 5 AUG
Are you itching to indulge your fascination with the British royal family, but convinced that the kids may get bored? Don’t worry, because three of London’s most regal destinations have the answer: Buckingham Palace, The Royal Mews and The Queen’s Gallery are joining forces to host a Family Festival Weekend. A programme of activities including workshops, trails and DIY crafts is planned, while a colourful troupe of performers, storytellers and musicians will entertain all ages. All events will run from 11am to 3pm and are included in the admission prices – get booking before it’s too late. www.royalcollection.org.uk
August is packed with great events, from the thrilling Rugby League Cup Final to fun theatre for kids
LONDON CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL FRIDAY 3–SUNDAY 5 AUG
We Brits love beer! Celebrate the drink at the London Craft Beer Festival at Tobacco Dock. Now in its sixth year, it gives you the chance to learn about brewing beer – you can try unusual varieties from 50 brewers such as the UK’s Beavertown and Cloudwater Beer Co, the USA’s Stillwater Artisanal and Denmark’s Mikkeller. There are DJ sets by Greg Wilson, Trojan Sound System, The Heatwave and Huey Morgan, among others. www.londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk
VITALITY HOCKEY WOMEN’S WORLD CUP TO SUNDAY 5 AUG
It’s billed as the most watched women’s sporting event in UK history, so no wonder all of England’s matches sold out within weeks of going on sale. The Vitality Hockey Women’s World Cup, at the Lee Valley Hockey and Tennis Centre, reaches its final knockout stages. This is the first time that the world’s biggest hockey event has been hosted in the UK. England, currently ranked second, will be hoping for their first World Cup title. www.visitleevalley.org.uk 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2018
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★★★★★
‘IT IS OUT OF THIS WORLD, IT’S MAGIC, AND IT’S A HIT’ THE TIMES
CHECK DAILY FOR LATE-RELEASE TICKETS
PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter
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™
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10/07/2018 15:19
T RUGBY LEAGUE CUP FINAL SATURDAY 25 AUG
It’s not only football matches that fill Wembley Stadium. The Ladbrokes Challenge Cup Final, the tub-thumping climax to a historic rugby league knockout tournament which has been going since 1896, promises to entertain 80,000 people. We don’t know yet who the finalists are, but Hull FC will have their eye on a third successive trophy. Whoever wins, we can be sure that the fullcapacity crowd will make the stadium’s ground shake. www.rugby-league.com
BRITNEY SPEARS FRIDAY 24-SUNDAY 26 AUG
If a show is good enough for the likes of pop royalty Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Katy Perry to watch, then it’s good enough for us. Britney Spears’ four-year Las Vegas residency with Piece of Me is now on tour, and it’s coming to The O2. Expect circus performers, falling petals and the star dressed up as an angel. www.theo2.co.uk
KIDS WEEK THROUGHOUT AUG
Don’t let the name mislead you – Kids Week has now extended to an entire month, and takes place throughout August. This annual event sees more than 30 West End shows, including Aladdin and The Phantom of the Opera, offer free tickets to under 16s with each full-paying adult. Look out for special activities and workshops that are taking place, too. www.kidsweek.co.uk 8 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2018
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AUGUST residence Clarence House beside 1 Royal Green Park opens today for one month the sun’s shining, join a guided Garden 2 IfWalk at Fulham Palace – today and 19 Aug Park Open Air Theatre season 3 Regent’s continues with Little Shop of Horrors Waterloo’s Vaults to watch Sounds 4 Enter and Sorcery, based on Disney’s Fantasia Bicester Village to dine at its highly 5 Visit anticipated newcomer, Café Wolseley advantage of the free Temperate 6 Take Treasures tour at Kew Gardens Tuesday: a quiet day to join the famed 7 It’s Dominique Ansel Bakery’s Cronut queue Garden Museum unveils the Flower 8 The Fairies today at its new art exhibition fans should head to Lord’s to watch 9 Cricket England take on India in the Second Test birds of prey flying at the Royal Air 10 Watch Force Museum, today and tomorrow only Premier League returns today with 11 The football fixtures around the country around Regent’s Park and take in 12 Stroll this year’s Frieze Sculpture exhibition got one more week to see the 13 You’ve Spice Girls exhibition, Spiceup, in Angel ground shaking? Walking 14 IswiththeDinosaurs opens at The O2 exhibition The Influence Project 15 Music enters its final week at Somerset House to the Michael Jackson art 16 Moonwalk show at the National Portrait Gallery night means one thing: a raucous 17 Friday evening with The Service at Café de Paris StrEATlife street food and craft beer 18 The festival returns to Alexandra Palace your last chance to catch the 19 Today’s Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition the Serpentine Gallery’s summer 20 Visit Pavilion, designed by Frida Escobedo a live, outdoor production of The 21 Watch Wind in the Willows at Chiswick House classic Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake 22 The unfurls its wings at the London Coliseum in London has never been cooler, so 23 Gin visit Wapping’s Gin Festival from today inflatable obstacle course called 24 AThehuge Monster arrives at Alexandra Palace a trip? Head to Cardiff to join Pride 25 Fancy Cymru and its sailing festival this weekend Notting Hill Carnival erupts on to 26 The the streets of west London today Britain’s acclaimed All Too Human 27 Tate life painting exhibition closes today Richmond for a meal at the beautiful, 28 Visit floral restaurant at Petersham Nurseries women’s suffrage at the Houses 29 Celebrate of Parliament’s free Voice and Vote display Today, the Sea Creatures show departs 30 Westminster’s Royal Horticultural Halls Calling all meat aficionados: the carnivore 31 celebration that is Meatopia opens today
PREVIOUS PAGE: FAMILY FESTIVAL © TODD-WHITE ART PHOTOGRAPHY; HOCKEY © SIMON PARKER; BEER FESTIVAL © MARK BASSETT. THIS PAGE: RUGBY © SWPIX.COM; BRITNEY SPEARS © AEG EUROPE UK; ALADDIN © DISNEY
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
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THE
experience
he opening matches of the new English Premier League season on 11 August mark the return of the most popular football division in the world. With star players such as Tottenham’s Harry Kane, Liverpool’s Mohamed Salah and Chelsea’s Eden Hazard, successful managers including Manchester City’s Pep Guardiola and Manchester United’s José Mourinho, and a proud heritage of exciting, attacking football, the Premier League is an addictive sporting soap opera. England’s top division is followed on TV in 212 territories worldwide, reaching 643 million homes and a total audience of 4.7 billion. Another 14.5 million passionate fans will grab their team scarves and attend live matches at the league’s 20 stadiums this season. With Arsenal, Chelsea, Crystal Palace, Fulham, Tottenham and West Ham in London (and Watford in nearby Hertfordshire), the region hosts more elite teams than any other part of the country. More than five million supporters are expected to attend Premier League games in the capital.
T
HOW IT ALL STARTED Football has a long and colourful history in England. Bizarre versions of the game have been played since medieval times. Entire villages hoofed an inflated pig’s bladder through streets and squares, and over fields, hedges and streams, in violent and chaotic contests with neighbouring villages. According to an ancient handbook from Workington in Cumbria, any means could be employed to get the ball – with the exception of murder. A set of rules was codified in 1863 with the establishment of the Football Association in a meeting at the Freemasons Arms – a tavern in London’s Covent Garden which is still open today. The first Football League was formed in 1888 and, following its glamorous upgrade to the Premier League in 1992, the game is now so popular that clubs amass a combined revenue of £4.5 billion every year. TEAM SPIRIT Football in the United Kingdom is not just a sport but a strand of national folklore. Fans follow their chosen teams – selected through
regional, familial or personal ties – with extraordinary passion and loyalty. The raucous 90-minute matches attract families, friends, children and pensioners. They are gatherings of like-minded supporters who share tribal loyalties, sing songs and make pilgrimages to worship their terrace idols. With matches played once or twice a week, from August until May, conversations in pubs, offices, trains and living rooms light up with football drama. England is famous for shock results: 1,018 goals were scored last season, at an average of 2.68 per match. Each stadium has its own personality. Arsenal’s 60,000-seat Emirates Stadium is a futuristic bowl, while Chelsea has tours of Stamford Bridge held in 12 languages. Around 800,000 visiting fans travel to Britain to watch football matches each year, with supporters from Ireland, Norway, Sweden, the US and the Netherlands leading the charge. And as 69.2 per cent of Premier League players are foreign-born, visitors from every part of the world can find a local Premier League hero to cheer on. www.premierleague.com
WEMBLEY STADIUM © CHRIS WINTER; STAMFORD BRIDGE TOUR © CLIVE HOWES/CHELSEA FC VIA GETTY IMAGES; ARSENAL MUSEUM © ARSENAL FOOTBALL CLUB/DAVID PRICE; CRYSTAL PALACE KIT COURTESY OF CRYSTAL PALACE FOOTBALL CLUB; EMIRATES STADIUM © ISTOCK
PREMIER
After England’s outstanding performance in the World Cup, Mark Bailey celebrates the goals, local passion and entertainment of the Premier League
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WHERE NOW | FOOTBALL
CAN YOU KICK IT? WHITE HART LANE Football fans travelling to London can watch Premier League matches at Arsenal, Chelsea, Crystal Palace, Fulham, West Ham or Watford, but this year marks the opening of Tottenham’s £400 million, state-of-the-art, 61,000-capacity White Hart Lane stadium, which includes a 17,500-seater singletier stand designed to create a stunning wall of sound. Most matches sell out but visitors can also enjoy the clubs’ museums, shops and stadium tours on days when there aren’t any matches. Chelsea even has a hotel on the site of its Stamford Bridge stadium. www.premierleague.com
FREEMASONS ARMS
Wembley Stadium tour
This Victorian pub in London’s Covent Garden is believed to be where the English Football Association first met to establish the modern laws of the game, in 1863. The walls are decorated with football memorabilia, as well as enough HD plasma TVs to
allow fans to watch matches while soaking up the atmosphere. Another popular destination for hungry and thirsty football fans is Cafe Football in Stratford – the brainchild of former Manchester United footballers Gary Neville and Ryan Giggs. Football is also screened in pubs and bars throughout the capital. www.cafe-football.com; www.freemasonsarmscovent garden.co.uk
WEMBLEY STADIUM With seats for 90,000 fans, Wembley in north London is the biggest football stadium in England. It is also the home of the England national football team and host of the historic FA Cup final. Throughout the year, visitors can join a stadium tour to explore the players’ changing rooms, experience pitch-side views and lift a replica of the FA Cup, or stock up on football-themed souvenirs at the Wembley store. www.wembleystadium.com
Crystal Palace Football Club’s home kit
Arsenal Museum
Stamford Bridge tour
FOOTBALL CLUB; EMIRATES STADIUM © ISTOCK
Emirates Stadium
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WHERE NOW | CARNIVAL
Car nival
Celebrate
G
et ready to wiggle, jiggle and sizzle as you watch Notting Hill Carnival (25-27 Aug), an annual free festival that takes over west London each summer. Now the second largest street festival in the world – after Rio de Janeiro’s Carnaval – this year two million people are expected to attend, in addition to 40,000 volunteers and 9,000 police officers. The festival sees floats, dancers and drummers parade through the streets along a 5.6km route. The procession has its roots in a Caribbean festival that took place in St Pancras Town Hall, Euston, in 1959. Held in response to a local race riot the year before, the event was organised by Claudia Jones and Edric Connor as a way of celebrating
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Caribbean culture, diversity and community spirit. It featured limbo dancers, steel bands, a Caribbean queen beauty contest and calypso, a type of folk music from Trinidad and Tobago. Over the following six years it changed venues, so the first Notting Hill Carnival is considered to have taken place in 1966, when the event was held outside for the first time – with an impromptu steel band procession from Powis Square by Ladbroke Grove. Around 500 people turned up. Since then, it’s added Caribbean food and drink stalls, floats and ‘moko jumbie’ stilt walkers, steel pan lessons, tea and cake mornings and static sound systems playing reggae, house, blues and Afrobeats. In addition, last year’s festival-goers listened to a steel band competition,
WOMAN IN YELLOW HAT COURTESY OF NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL; OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK
Sarah Riches bangs the drum in support of one of the world’s biggest festivals – Notting Hill Carnival
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African drumming, storytelling, poetry, comedy and political commentary. There was also live music on stages and in a calypso tent, which played soca, a type of calypso which originated in Trinidad and Tobago in the 1970s. There are trained stewards to answer questions, and stricter rules have been introduced to keep the bands moving. Carnival director Tara Hobson says: ‘Notting Hill Carnival is a vital date in the diary for any visitor to London. It features a spectacular parade which showcases London’s rich multicultural heritage with masquerade, steel and samba bands, children’s activities and delicious Caribbean food stalls. As with any event that attracts the number of people carnival does, we work closely with the police and local authorities to ensure a safe experience for all. We want visitors to London to feel at ease and to enjoy this incredible weekend.’ Whichever day you attend, you can enjoy Caribbean culture, from costumes to steel pan tunes. There are also sound systems, food stalls and carnival arts in The Tabernacle, a cultural centre in a Grade II-listed building in Powis Square, and its sister venue, The Yaa Centre. www.nhcarnival.org
Carnival guide SATURDAY
The highlight is the Panorama National Steel Band Competition (25 Aug), one of the largest contests of its kind outside of the Caribbean. Head to Emslie Horniman’s Pleasance Park to listen to eight bands play a 10-minute composition from memory, as no sheet music is allowed. Last year’s winner, Ebony, will be one of the performers.
SUNDAY Things kick off at sunrise when party-goers throw paint and colourful powder at each other in place of the Caribbean’s traditional mud and oil. Dubbed Children’s Day, the crowds are (allegedly) less wild and the music quieter – only a bit though, as it’s still Notting Hill Carnival, after all. Families can cheer on child-friendly floats and children’s bands. At 10am, the opening ceremony begins on Great Western Road, followed by entertainment on live stages from noon in Emslie Horniman’s Pleasance Park and Powis Square.
MONDAY It’s the parade – so get there early to grab a good spot. Fancy dress is optional, but one thing’s for sure – there will be someone dressed more outrageously than you. Again, from noon there will be music stages in Emslie Horniman’s Pleasance Park and in Powis Square. w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 13
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7 things you need to know about Visit Tate Modern as it celebrates one of the world’s greatest artists, says Emma Levine
CHILD PRODIGY While most babies’ first words are ‘dada’ or ‘mama’, the Malaga-born Picasso’s was ‘pencil’, or ‘piz’, in Spanish. A prophecy? It’s possible, but more likely because his father José Ruiz Blasco was an artist. A child prodigy, Picasso created his first painting, Le Picador, at the age of eight, and as a young teenager he was producing paintings that would merit being exhibited in any major gallery. At 13, Picasso enrolled and quickly shone at the Barcelona art school – where his father taught – yet he left three years later because he was ‘bored’.
A WAY WITH WOMEN That Picasso was a playboy is well known; he had many lovers in addition to his two wives, most significantly younger than him. This exhibition focuses on his relationship with Marie-Thérèse Walter, who he met when he was 45 and she was 17. His young lover had no idea who he was, but her mother did. One of Picasso’s most famous paintings is of Walter. Nude Woman in a Red Armchair was painted after her 23rd birthday. It wasn’t until 1935 that his wife finally left him, after Walter became pregnant by Picasso.
HE WAS REJECTED BY THE COMMUNISTS Picasso was a member of the Communist Party until his death in 1973 and a lifelong anti-war campaigner, yet his comrades did not easily accept his Cubist art. Those on the other side of the Iron Curtain, in Moscow, preferred Realism – art that praised the struggle for a Communist utopia. So why did Picasso never shift his artistic genre to please others? ‘He was not a man of compromise,’ according to his granddaughter, Diana Widmaier Picasso, and remained true to his beliefs even when those with likeminded political principles rejected his art.
THE HAND IN GUERNICA The mural-sized canvas Guernica is one of Picasso’s most powerful works – his response to the Nazi 1937 bombing of the Basque town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War, which killed almost 2,000 civilians. Picasso’s muted monochrome palette of black, grey and white depicts the atrocity using symbolism: a bull, signifying brutality and darkness; a dead soldier clutching a flower; and a dove, symbolising broken peace. Look at the bottom left-hand corner of the painting to see the outstretched hand of a victim, with flayed fingers. Picasso’s original drawings depicted a clenched fist, representing power, but he then realised that an unclenched hand is more likely to end wars.
IN HIS PAST HE HAD A BRUSH WITH THEATRE Less well-known was Picasso’s skill as a stage designer, poet and playwright. He collaborated with Sergei Diaghilev, the founder of the Ballets Russes, to create costumes and stage sets, described by dancer Lydia Lopokova as ‘moving and alive’. The first public reading of Picasso’s play Desire Caught by the Tail, written in 1941, featured Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre.
EARNING HIS STRIPES You might not consider this artist as an influencer, but his penchant in later life for the striped navy-and-white Breton shirt made him a style icon. The style was the uniform for the French navy, with each of the 21 stripes on the shirt signifying a Napoleon victory. It caught the eye of Coco Chanel, who featured it in her 1917 Nautical Collection. Picasso loved representing the country where he spent most of his life – and some fashion lines today call the top the Picasso Breton shirt.
MOTHER’S PRIDE Picasso had ample encouragement and endorsement from his mother, who told him: ‘If you wanted to be soldier, you would work and work and become a general. If you were a monk, you would work hard and become the Pope. But you wanted to be an artist and became the very best of them: Pablo Picasso.’
PABLO PICASSO, 1932, BY CECIL BEATON
This summer, Tate Modern is honouring the great artist Picasso, and one significant year, in The EY Exhibition: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy. But how did his childhood, parents and politics affect his work?
The EY Exhibition: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy. To 9 Sep. Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. www.tate.org.uk 14 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2018
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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS
CHECK THIS OUT Burberry’s signature teddy bear Thomas Baby Bear, £75, Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB
FROM LONDON
BRINGING UP BABY Print a birth certificate on a scroll for a personal touch English Trousseau Dashing Hare Certificate Set, £79.95, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL
As school is out for the summer, take your pick from these children’s gifts, including bridges, bags and bears TOP DOG These are inspired by the Queen’s dogs Corgi Wash Bag, £14.95, Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP
TIME FOR FUN Create a mini version of the iconic clock Big Ben, £179.99, LEGO Store, 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP
MAGIC MOMENTS Visit Platform 9¾ and buy a Harry Potter souvenir Gryffindor Scarf, £33, The Harry Potter Shop, King’s Cross station, N1 9AP
BEAR HUGS Michael Bond’s famous bear Paddington Bear and Union Jack Bag, £11, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT
ALL PRODUCTS COURTESY OF THE STOCKISTS; WOMAN IMAGE © ISTOCK
BUILDING BRIDGES Build your own 3D puzzle Ravensburger Tower Bridge, £35, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT
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Visit the largest LEGO Store in the World! LEGO Store London Leicester Square • Visit the world’s FIRST LEGO Mosaic Maker. To create a personal LEGO Mosaic book your in-store experience at - https://storebooking.lego.com/ • See the unique London inspired LEGO Builds • Discover the broadest selection, exclusive and hard to find LEGO sets including the LEGO London Bus (10258) and the Exclusive Minifigure Lester (50308) • Enjoy hands-on play opportunities • Join the VIP Program and experience the VIP treatment. Sign up at shop.LEGO.com/VIP
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BRIDGE © OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE; THE FUTURE STARTS HERE EXHIBITION © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; CHELSEA MANNING © HEATHER DEWEY-HAGBORG AND FRIDMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK CITY; TWO IMAGES OF INSIDE THE EXHIBITION COURTESY OF V&A; DRIVERLESS CAR – SEDRIC © VOLKSWAGEN GROUP FUTURE CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES
WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Supported by Volkswagen Group.
‘
his trendspotting exhibition, winningly and inventively designed to resist minimalist, brightly-lit clichés about the future, instead guides you with ethical and speculative questions.’ (The Telegraph) The Future Starts Here is a major exhibition celebrating the power of design in shaping the world of tomorrow, bringing together more than 100 objects – either ones that are newly released or in development – that point towards where society might be heading. From smart appliances to satellites and artificial intelligence to internet culture, this ‘mindboggling, parameter-expanding display’ (The Times) may seem straight out of science fiction, but they are real, produced by
studios and laboratories around the world. See what’s next from major corporations such as Google and Apple, alongside the alternative futures presented by smaller institutions and independent designers tackling issues including the strain on the environment, the impact of digital connectivity on solitariness and even projects tackling human immortality. Marvel at the latest innovations in robotics and prosthetics and witness the increasingly blurred lines between humanity and technology. On display for the first time is Facebook’s Aquila, which is part of a solar-powered aircraft that’s in development as part of Facebook’s efforts to bring affordable internet to unconnected regions around the world.
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OF V&A; DRIVERLESS CAR – SEDRIC © VOLKSWAGEN GROUP FUTURE CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES
“
THIS SHOW IS FUN. TEENAGERS WILL LOVE IT. – The Times
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Clockwise from top: Luchtsingel pedestrian bridge in Rotterdam; The Future Starts Here exhibition; DNA portrait of Chelsea Manning; Sedric the driverless car by the Volkswagen Group Future Center Europe; in the exhibition; dummy antenna around a fake tree by Dutch artist Jalila Essaidi
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Consider what impact these projects might have on your body, home, work and the planet – even your love life! While what’s on display suggest a certain future, it is not yet determined. The future we get is up to us.
”
#TheFutureStartsHere Visit The Future Starts Here (to 4 Nov) in the V&A’s Sainsbury Gallery, a new subterranean gallery which is one of Europe’s largest temporary exhibition spaces. www.vam.ac.uk/future w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
The keys to the palace
Royal homes
Britain’s royal residences are surprisingly accessible: in May, billions of people had a good look beyond the walls of Windsor Castle, while Buckingham Palace currently has its State Rooms and huge garden on show for public tours. As for William, Kate, Harry and Meghan, you can visit Kensington Palace every day of the week. In fact, the royal home with the most impenetrable gates is Clarence House, but that changes this month. The Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall reside beyond the cream walls of this 1827 John Nash creation, which is next to Green Park but within the boundaries of St James’s Palace. From Monday to Friday during August only, you can take a 45-minute tour of five rooms on the lavish ground floor. The house was built for George III’s son, the Duke of Clarence, and its last resident was Charles’ grandmother, the Queen Mother, who lived here for almost 50 years. Clarence House was even home to the Queen prior to her accession, in the early years of her marriage. The tour begins in the garden, before you’re taken inside to see the rooms which are used
by the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall for hosting official engagements. The rooms on show include the Lancaster Room, used as a waiting area for guests and home to two eye-catching porcelain vases which date from 18th-century China. In the Morning Room, meanwhile, treasures to look out for include a golden-edged Chippendale sofa from 1773 and two flamboyant porcelain mantel clocks. The cosy Garden Room is a visual treat; once occupied by Princess Margaret before she was married, it is now dominated by large, early 18th-century paintings of birds by Hungary’s Jakob Bogdani. Do you already feel like 45 minutes won’t be long enough? Then another option is to visit from Wednesday to Friday this month, between 4.30pm and 6pm. This slightly longer tour exclusively includes the Cornwall Room, which is filled with art painted by Prince Charles. For adults only, this after-hours visit includes a guidebook and a glass of Champagne – you’ll be feeling regal in no time at all. Clarence House, St James’s, SW1A 1BA. T: 030-3123 7324. www.royalcollection.org.uk
PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE In Edinburgh you’ll find another Queen’s Gallery to enjoy – just like at Buckingham Palace. This palace (above) is the Queen’s official residence in Scotland. Canongate, Edinburgh, Scotland, EH8 8DX
WINDSOR CASTLE Thanks to a wedding that you might have heard about, this castle needs no introduction. What you may not know is that it is the world’s largest castle still in use and the Queen’s weekend home. Windsor Castle is about an hour-long train journey from Waterloo. Windsor, SL4 1NJ
HILLSBOROUGH CASTLE When in Northern Ireland, the royal family stays in this grand castle, which is set in 100 acres of gardens south of Belfast. The Square, Hillsborough, Northern Ireland, BT26 6AG
CLARENCE HOUSE AND HOLYROOD HOUSE © THE ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2018
Did you know that you can pop into a royal residence? Neil Simpson reveals how you can visit the Queen and Prince Charles’ homes
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VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS
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THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | FIRST VISIT ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS
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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89
SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the magnificent home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. 7 Aug: Upslide Down. Take part in this competitive race up the tower’s 455 steps, which culminates with a slide back down again. From 6pm; £35. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House
Combine sightseeing with souvenir heaven at Chiswick House and Gardens when it hosts The Great British Food Festival: Bite-Size (10-12 Aug; p. 26). ‘Bite-Size’ indicates that, rather than having to commit to buying a ticket for the whole day, you can choose a family-orientated daytime session or a grown-up evening session – a chance to investigate great British drinks. You’ll find specialist product demonstrations by chefs as well as live entertainment. There’s even a typically British competition focused around baking, with judging at 1.30pm each day. The festival is set in the 18th-century restored grounds, which were inspired by Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park.
HOUSE COURTESY OF CHISWICK HOUSE AND GARDENS
This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for King James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire in 1698. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
A taste of Britain
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Really great days out that make a real difference
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SIGHTSEEING Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Other animals to visit include pigs, ferrets, wallabies, emus and snakes. 3 Aug: Snail Day. Meet and hold a giant African land snail, make a snail puppet and hear a special story, all from 11.45am or 2.15pm. Daily 10am5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.battersea parkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as a programme of exhibitions. To 5 Aug: Karl and Eleanor Marx. Exploring the links between the political activists and The British Library, where they both worked. To 28 Aug: James Cook: The Voyages. Explore original maps, artworks and journals from Cook’s historic journeys to the Antarctic Circle, New Zealand and Australia. To 21 Oct: Windrush: Songs in a Strange Land. Exhibition to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Empire Windrush arrival. Discover the Caribbeans who arrived through poetry, novels and musical recordings. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross. 120mmx175mm.pdf
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A super hero’s day out It’s best known as a concert venue, but The O2 on Greenwich Peninsula has more tricks up its sleeve. You can climb over the top of this Docklands icon at Up at The O2 (p. 32) and then venture inside for an exhibition. The climb is relatively gentle (wheelchair users can take part, too) and at the top, there’s time to take photos and find out about the surrounding landmarks. Back on firm land, DC Exhibition: Dawn of Super Heroes (to 9 Sep; p. 30; above) has mountains of items relating to Superman, Wonder Woman and more. Our favourites are Batman’s hulking motorcycle from The Dark Knight and the vast array of vintage comic pages which adorn the walls. 14:35
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SIGHTSEEING Buckingham Palace
Changing the Guard
Chelsea Physic Garden
The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. Normally closed to the public, it’s currently possible to tour the State Rooms and garden until 30 Sep. To mark the 70th birthday of the Prince of Wales, there will be a special display of more than 100 works of art personally selected by His Royal Highness from the Royal Collection in the exhibition Prince and Patron. Daily 9.30am-7pm; book via the Royal Collection website. Adult £24; child £13.50 (tickets must be booked in advance). www.royalcollection. org.uk/buckinghampalace. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
Watch the world-famous changing of the Queen’s Guard ceremony on Buckingham Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; please check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/ Green Park.
London’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire more than 5,000 species of plants, especially medicinal varieties including tropical plants in glasshouses. 5 & 12 Aug: Passion for Plants. Workshops designed to introduce children aged three to six to the world of plants. Free daily tours. Sun-Mon & Thur-Fri 11am-6pm; Tue-Wed 11am-10pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.25. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT.
Chiswick House and Gardens See Old Masters on display in this manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by both ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The 18th-century restored gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. 10-12 Aug: Great British Food Festival: Bite-Size. Browse specialist products from the UK, sample food and drinks, watch demonstrations by chefs and listen to live entertainment (p. 22). 21-24 Aug: Wind in the Willows. Watch a live production of this classic children’s tale. House Wed-Mon 10am-5pm; gardens daily 7am-dusk. House entry adult £7.50; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House and Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.
Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck, enjoy afternoon tea under the hull or take part in the lively programme of family-friendly events. 15 & 16 Aug: Model Magic Figureheads. Bring children along to these free, two-hour workshops, to make their own ship figurehead from modelling clay. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience. Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.
Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Dinosaurs in the Wild This immersive, family-friendly attraction takes visitors on a hair-raising journey back in time to the age of the dinosaurs. Through simulations, theatre and interactive exhibitions and sets, see prehistoric animals in cages,
TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES
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Nelson’s Column has towered over Trafalgar Square since 1843
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SIGHTSEEING a dinosaur autopsy and a research station, all while learning more about these creatures. Allow approximately 90 minutes for a visit. Tue-Sun 10am-4.30pm. Adult £33; child £28.50. Advance booking recommended. www.dinosaursinthe wild.com. West Parkside, SE10 0BE. T: 0844-854 1355. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. The current exhibition, London: A Poem, explores Johnson’s first independently published work, including its rare first edition and images of 1730s London. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Handel & Hendrix in London
HMS Belfast
The former homes of both the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. Discover the fascinating history of the place where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. 24 Aug: Hendrix Flat Friday Late. The house’s latest Hendrix house party combines cocktails, dancing and live music. £25; booking essential. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live Baroque music every Wed and Sat, 11.30am1.30pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handel hendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Permanently moored on the River Thames, this is the most significant surviving World War II Royal Navy warship. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Explore all nine decks of HMS Belfast to discover what life was like on board for the crew at war and at sea. Children will love climbing aboard the ship this summer and taking part in exciting family activities, including the chance to meet veterans and hear eyewitnesses of conflict. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. Sun-Fri & bank hols 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now, it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and a programme of themed tours. Its exhibition explores the palace’s role as a Red Cross hospital during World War I. 2 & 19 Aug: Garden Walk. Guided tour of rare plants; check for times. 3 & 16 Aug: Outdoor Theatre. The season starts with Shakespeare’s classic The Merchant of Venice, followed by the comic opera The Pirates of Penzance; 7pm-10pm. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Go Ape Alexandra Palace A treetop obstacle course for kids with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake and pitch and putt nearby. Daily; check online for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.
NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY
Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a harness. Staff are on hand throughout the three-and-ahalf-hour experience. Open daily; check online for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with glorious gardens which are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. General admission daily noon-4pm; garden admission daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond. www.wheretraveler.com 27
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SIGHTSEEING Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. To 6 Oct: Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament (p. 29). Marking 100 years since the first women were given the right to vote in the UK, this interactive exhibition recreates long-lost parts of Parliament and explores the history of women in the House of Commons and the House of Lords. Tours every Sat, as well as Mon-Fri to 31 Aug only (excluding 27 Aug). Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free
per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures and known as the ‘King’s Privy Wardrobe,’ this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings, replicas of precious objects and the 18th-century clerk’s office. The tower has a ribbed vault. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. The Keats and Milton: Paradise Lost exhibition provides an opportunity to see the poet’s response to one of the greatest poems ever written, by reading the notes he scribbled across Milton’s verse. The third Sunday of every month is Family Day, during which you can participate in craft, music and poetry activities, even if you don’t have an admission ticket. Check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tour at 3pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, a collection dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Regular family events. Daily 10am5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org. uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 0208348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and an aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour! The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun, too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up… Which is why it hosts occasional adult nights! Daily 10am-7pm. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333.Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you, thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment. 28 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2018
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SIGHTSEEING Coca-Cola London Eye
ZSL London Zoo
Madame Tussauds
This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your memories of it online using #eyelovelondon. It gives you a fantastic view of the capital, taking in the River Thames, Big Ben and The Shard. You can also book chocolate and Champagne tasting. If you want a special experience, hire a private pod for yourself and loved one. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach as well as the penguin feeding shows, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, Morning with the Gibbons and Giraffe High Tea, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. There are also sleepover options with rented lodges. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film, the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony, or ‘Tom Hearty’, a model of actor Tom Hardy with a heartbeat. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds. com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.
SUFFRAGETTE FLAG © UK PARLIAMENT AND MARK DUFFY
Making their voices heard In 1918, following a fierce campaign by suffragettes, the first women won the right to vote. In this centenary year, the building in which UK women’s rights were passed into law is honouring this change. The Houses of Parliament’s Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament (to 6 Oct; p. 28) explores this struggle. On display in Westminster Hall (a magnificent sight in itself ) are long-lost parts of the building, which have been rebuilt especially for the occasion. These represent the women-only sections in Parliament, including the Lady Members’ Room, which was created when female Parliamentarians began working. The exhibition gives a great insight into women’s place in Parliament.
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SIGHTSEEING The Monument
The O2
Old Royal Naval College
This famous landmark stands at the junction of Monument Street and Fish Street Hill in the City of London. The beautiful Doric column made of Portland stone in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. It was designed by the architect Sir Christopher Wren, who designed St Paul’s Cathedral. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
Huge venue for entertainment, events and exhibitions. To 9 Sep: DC Exhibition: Dawn of Super Heroes. Fans of super heroes and super villains will love this exhibition (p. 24). Take a look inside the world of DC Comics creations such as Superman, Batman, Wonder Woman and Mr Freeze, with displays of costumes, models, props, original sketches and video scenes to bring you closer to the world’s most iconic characters. Don’t miss the cape worn by Christopher Reeve in the Superman movies. Daily from 9.30am. Tickets £5-£10. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with regular costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on a 50-minute tour from an elevated observation deck: adult £10; child £5. Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Drive my car
LONDON’S SKYLINE
BOOK TODAY AND SAVE AT LONDONEYE.COM See londoneye.com for full terms. Save up to 10% when tickets are booked online 24hrs+ in advance. COCA-COLA and the CONTOUR BOTTLE are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company. © 2018 DreamWorks Animation L.L.C. The London Eye is conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects. Content shown has been altered for the sake of communications and some images have been captured with professional cameras. All images and copy are for illustrative purposes only.
TAXI COURTESY OF CAPITAL TAXI TOURS
BE PART OF
If sightseeing on an open-top bus isn’t really your style, have you considered touring by taxi? In business since 1976, Capital Taxi Tours (p. 33) is the oldest of its kind in London. If there’s a particular topic that interests you, Capital designs excursions to requirements – for anyone who is familiar with London, this is a great chance to indulge your specific tastes. Alternatively, take inspiration from tour themes such as Harry Potter, The Beatles, Sherlock, Peaky Blinders and Downton Abbey. Timings are set by you and, if you fancy adventuring outside the city but don’t want to hire your own car, Capital will take you to London’s surrounding countryside – anyone fancy the Cotswolds? If you’d rather visit Cornwall, that’s also possible: the company has grown to include a network of guides in areas as varied as Manchester, Inverness, Devon and Belfast.
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SIGHTSEEING Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
SEA LIFE London Aquarium
Shrek’s Adventure!
Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. 4-5 Aug: Wing Fest. The UK’s top chicken wing vendors descend on the park to compete for the titles Best Buffalo Wings and Best Wild Wings. Adult £20; child free. Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark. co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
One of Europe’s largest aquariums with more than 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a beautiful glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the new Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved film series, which is popular with children. You can visit sets including Shrek’s swamp and the Mirror Maze of Insanity. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views. Following a comprehensive, five-year refurbishment, the Temperate House has just reopened – the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world houses 10,000 temperate plants. To 31 Aug: Join the free Temperate Treasures tour daily at noon or 2.30pm, to learn more about Kew’s temperate plants. To 30 Sep: Here Be Dragons. Free, themed family attractions, including a trail of dragon sculptures hidden around the gardens. Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
The Royal Institution of Great Britain This Grade I-listed Georgian building houses a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. 10 Aug: -196°C: The Liquid Nitrogen Show. This family-friendly evening performance in the theatre demonstrates the weird science of liquid nitrogen. 6pm-7.15pm; £7-£16. Check the website for a full programme of talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Royal Mews This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Witness working life and learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Kids will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as the busy programme of art sessions. 4-5 Aug: Family Festival Weekend (p. 6). In collaboration with Buckingham Palace and The Queen’s Gallery, expect workshops, activities, trails, arts and crafts for the whole family. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11; child £6.40; under-fives free. www.royalcollection. org.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomers workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and see the Prime Meridian Line. The refurbished planetarium’s daily programme includes the new show Phantom of the Universe, exploring dark matter and the Big Bang: adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg. co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
Discover beauty Visit the world’s greatest botanic garden
Only 30 minutes from central London Friends of Kew go free Kew Gardens Kew Bridge
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SIGHTSEEING St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Dokke, Bravas Tapas, Zizzi and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Palladian church with tours, brass-rubbing, live classical music (some free) and an al fresco café in its courtyard. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight.
To 31 Aug: Lingering Ghosts. This photography exhibition questions how the UK treats migrants fleeing dangerous lives. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission
also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check online for bridge lift times, which is usually twice a day. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 0207403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tower of London
WELCOME TO BUCKINGHAM PALACE 21 July – 30 September 2018 10 weeks only
This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp. org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2 (p. 24). From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Alternatively, you can make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco from 10pm (£37.50; check online for dates). Daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £24.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Visit London’s tallest building, The Shard
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SIGHTSEEING Warner Bros Studio Tour London
Big Bus Tours
Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. It is a fascinating insight into filmmaking. To 23 Sep: The Goblet of Fire. See the goblet as it returns to the Great Hall for the first time since filming ended, alongside costumes and props from the fourth film. Please check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £37; child £19. www.bigbus tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.
Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus. Departs from bus stop 15 at Trafalgar Square. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am.
www.bigbustours.com. Departs from Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people (p. 30). Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capital taxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In June, the Abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, its four displays collectively tell the story of the Abbey through more than 300 objects. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-4pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £22; child £9. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £27; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
WWT London Wetland Centre
THE SHARD COURTESY OF THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. 3-24 Aug: Night Safaris. Every Friday evening, see the wetlands at night, seach for bats, build a den and toast marshmallows on a campfire (adult £25; one child free per paying adult; booking essential). Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. 8 & 10 Aug: Return to Hanging Acre. The horrifying history of an area long associated with executions and disease (meet at 1pm at Chancery Lane Tube station). A programme of all walks is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077. www.wheretraveler.com 33
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SIGHTSEEING City of London Guides Walks
Golden Tours
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours
A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and several City gardens. Tickets range from free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.
From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle, the Cotswolds, Oxford, Cambridge, Warwick Castle, Leeds Castle and Paris. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. The London hop-on, hop-off bus is a great introduction to all the best landmarks and attractions in the capital and it means thyou are free to ride the buses at their own pace. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Victoria.
See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. One-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Stonehenge. Please check for times and prices. www.evan evanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE
8 JUNE – 14 OCTOBER 2018 Includes A Prince’s Tour of India 1875–6 and Four Centuries of South Asian Paintings and Manuscripts
Hairy Goat Photography Tours Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the acclaimed Hairy Goat offers both daytime and evening options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details of grand, old and new architecture, and the street and river scenes that make London a joy to photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.
Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East station. £10. www.jack-the-rippertour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
Kia Oval Tours Tour of the famous sports grounds, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches (p. 38). See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check for times and prices. www.kia oval.com. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map.
London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from Green Park Tube station, at the exit closest to The Ritz. www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park Tube station. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.
The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or spook yourself with an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start from £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
London Literary Pub Crawl
www.royalcollection.org.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301
See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and contemporary writers. Thur & Sat only, please check website for times. Tickets £24, booking advised. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
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SIGHTSEEING London Magical Tours
Original London Sightseeing Walk
The Original Tour
The award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team for no parking worries: a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.
Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, Original Tours has launched a series of walking tours available Fri-Sun: Picture London at 11.30am, Royal London at 2.30pm and Haunted London at 6pm. £5 each, or £10 for all three walks. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The Original Tour company has more than 65 years’ experience. These live, multilingual and guided bus tours take place on an open-top double-decker bus. They take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Sit at the top of the bus and take in 360-degree panoramic views of London’s top landmarks. The original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, ‘Girls Day Out’ and ‘A Royal Morning in London’. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
Neverland Children’s Tours Offering fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and over, the aim of Neverland Children’s Tours is to make London sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and meet new friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Chancery Lane.
More than just Big Ben
Westminster Abbey has opened a new gallery (p. 33)
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SIGHTSEEING Royal Albert Hall Tours
Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours)
Twizy Tours
Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 9.30am-4.30pm; no tour 19 Aug. Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
This reconstruction of William Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre on the South Bank has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candle-lit performance space. The tours are a chance to explore this fascinating building, which hosts an exciting season of theatre. Tours begin every 30 minutes, Mon 9am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9am-12.30pm; Sun 9am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by an entertaining, GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent an adorable Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. Prices from £29.99 per tour. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm and 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
WINNER OF THE TOP HORROR ATTRACTION IN THE WORLD WORLDWIDE ATTRACTION AWARDS
Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £22; child £14. www.wembley stadium.com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last for two and a half hours in either a four or six-seater carriage with an adjustable hood to accomodate any weather. £500 per carriage. www. westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights – and little-known cobbled streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures, and the Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours 90 minutes. £30 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £40 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
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TheLondonBridgeExperience.com The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY FREE audio guides available *This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other discount or promotional offer.
Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Daily departures 11am-6.30pm. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
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SIGHTSEEING MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75; children under five travel free. Single journeys from £4.60. www.mbnathames clippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.
Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
OUT OF TOWN
Thamesjet
Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. This was Britain’s first public museum and the world’s first university museum. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies, Anglo-Saxon treasures, paintings from the Western world and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask.
Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Westminster.
Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology
Thames River Services Take a trip on this hop-on, hop-off service featuring live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-5pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11am-6pm. Please check for prices (if you book online, you can receive a 35 per cent online
SEE FURTHER THAN THE EYE CAN SEE
GUARD © VISIT LONDON
Book in advance and save Speak to your hotel concierge today theviewfromtheshard.com
See the Changing the Guard (p. 26)
Open daily from 10am till late London Bridge
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SIGHTSEEING To 9 Sep: The Tale of Prince Vessantara. Exploring
the final birth story of the Buddha, a popular tale depicted in an array of Burmese and Sri Lankan artworks. To 14 Oct: A Century of Women in Chinese Art. Over many centuries, Chinese painters have been inspired by everyday life, traditional literature and folk religion to portray women in this world and beyond. Here is a rare chance to enjoy a diverse selection of depictions of women in China over the past 100 years. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
Blenheim Palace
Chartwell
See three centuries of treasures in magnificent State Rooms at this palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is in ‘Capability’ Brown parkland. 26-27 Aug: Festival of Transport. Inspect an array of classic cars and enjoy activities such as vehicle judging. To 7 Oct: Yves Klein. More than 50 artworks by the French artist, including paintings, sculptures and large installations. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6.30pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £26; child £14.50. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill was actually bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, while Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living in it. The house is wonderful to visit because it is still decorated as it was in the 1930s. Outside you will also find a lovely kitchen garden and woodland to explore, too. Mon-Fri 11.30am5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £14.40; child £7.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted.
Calling all cricket fans: here’s a chance to walk on one of the world’s greatest grounds, even if your visit to London doesn’t coincide with any fixtures. Take the Ground Tour at The Kia Oval (p. 34) in south London for a fascinating introduction to this venue, covering its history, architecture and the people who have made it what it is today, from sporting heroes to ground staff. The Oval was the birthplace of The Ashes in 1882 (the highly contested Test Match series between England and Australia) and has been the site of many of cricket’s most memorable moments. Don Bradman’s duck in his final innings happened here, as well as Kevin Pietersen’s 158 that sealed England’s 2005 Ashes win. Home to Surrey County Cricket Club since it opened in 1845, The Oval also staged England’s first international football match, as well as the first FA Cup Final. Fancy watching a match? Then you’ll be pleased to hear that fixtures are scheduled for August.
GROUNDS COURTESY OF KIA OVAL
Around the wicket
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SIGHTSEEING Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see the Henry’s grand State Apartments including the Great Hall. 25-27 Aug: Hampton Court Palace Food Festival. On the East Front Gardens, join in with live cooking demonstrations, child-friendly Tudor cookery classes and plenty of food sampling. To 2 Sep: No One Does Feasting Like the Tudors. This season of Tudor cooking demonstrations, events and talks transports visitors back to 1538, as the kitchen prepares a feast for Henry VIII’s son, Edward. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Wind in the Willows. Watch a performance of this much-loved children’s story in Osterley’s grounds. 11.30am & 2.30pm. Adult £14; child £9.50. Garden daily 10am-5pm; house daily 11am-5pm. Adult £11.40; child £5.70. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 0208232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the State Apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. 2-30 Aug: Exclusive Evening Tour. Once the crowds have left, visit
the State Apartments (£40; under-fives free). Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/palaceofholyrood house. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.
Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. Daily 9am-8pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
Hever Castle and Gardens Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful fort was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has grand interiors, the work of the Astor family during the 20th century. Outside, the fort gardens have statues and a lake for boat rides. 25-27 Aug: Journey Through History & Jousting. Spend the long bank holiday weekend at this history event, with a jousting tournaments and re-enactments from the castle’s past. Daily 10.30am-6pm; castle opens noon. Adult £17.25; child £9.75. www.hever castle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge.
Leeds Castle Fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display in the castle grounds. 2-4 Aug: Open-Air Cinema. Watch The Italian Job, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone and Dirty Dancing outside on a big screen, with a live orchestra. From 9pm. Adult £37.50; child £28.50. 17-18 Aug: Open-Air Theatre: Peter Pan. Catch this family-friendly retelling of the classic tale, then meet the characters after the show. 6pm-8pm. Adult £15; child £12. Grounds and garden daily 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £25.50; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leedscastle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated. Departures every 30 mins. Adult £13; child £7. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Regular after-dark tours, park runs every Saturday, yoga sessions in the mansion house and gardening clubs. 15-19 Aug: Outdoor Theatre: The
SUMMER SHOWS | FAMILY FUN FILM NIGHTS | SUMMERTIME STAGE BEACH | STREET FOOD | ROOF GARDEN
COME & EXPLORE
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Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039
www.goldentours.com
TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See By Night
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £21 Child - £12
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
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SIGHTSEEING Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed, landscaped gardens and Great Conservatory. Gardens daily 10.30am-5pm; House Wed, Thur & Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.
Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. House Wed-Fri noon-4pm, Sat-Sun 11am-4pm; grounds Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. House tickets adult £19.80; child £9.90; grounds-only tickets adult £10.80; child £5.40. House tickets must be bought in advance; grounds-only tickets may be purchased on arrival. www.waddesdon.org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.
Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. 3-4, 10-11 & 24-27 Aug: Dragon Slayer. A new evening show featuring stunts, jousting and dazzling light effects (from £15; booking essential). Please check for times. Castle adult £27; child £24; castle & dungeon adult £32; child £28. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade Ilisted Watts Chapel. Tue-Sun & banks hols 11am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed in May and where Princess Eugenie (ninth in line to the throne) will marry Jack Brooksbank in October. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt and Canaletto. From 1 Aug: Conquer the Tower Tour. Follow 200 steps to the top of the Round Tower, for views of Windsor and London (adult £8.50; child £5.60). Daily 9.30am-5.15pm. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk/windsorcastle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
TOY DEMONSTTTIONS, PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES, COMPETITIONS, A FLYING SNITCH AND MUCH MORE!
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Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. 18-19 Aug: Don’t miss this rare opportunity to take a horse-drawn carriage tour of the grounds and gardens. To 28 Oct: Humphry Repton: Art and Nature for the Duke of Bedford. Explore the 19th-century working relationship between the famous gardener and the 6th Duke of Bedford. Gardens, deer park, tea room and shop daily 10am-6pm; abbey daily 11am-5pm. Gardens and deer park adult £8; child £5.25. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £17.50; child £8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.
TripAdvisor Review
Helicopter Sightseeing Tours Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
Paint the town Some of the best galleries in the world are in London, but this month Neil Simpson is urging you to step outside instead and take a look at the capital’s outdoor art Do you think most artwork is behind four walls? Then think again. In Kensington Gardens, the temporary Serpentine Pavilion is now in place as the summer centrepiece on the Serpentine Gallery’s lawn (p. 49). The annual architectural commission is a magnet for the world’s hottest talent, so this year Mexico’s Frida Escobedo has crafted a courtyard that combines British and Mexican stylings. Once you’ve admired Escobedo’s handiwork, walk to Hyde Park’s central Serpentine lake to inspect Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s massive Mastaba. The married couple conceived the project before Jeanne-Claude died in 2009, leaving Christo to realise the project alone. The 20m-high sculpture is inspired by the shape of mastaba benches, which were popular among the ancient civilisations of Mesopotamia. It’s constructed from 7,506 red, white, blue and mauve barrels and will be floating on top of the lake until September. Make sure your sculpture trail takes in Trafalgar Square, where the famous fourth plinth has a new look. The glistening structure you see is Michael Rakowitz’s Lamassu, a mythical winged bull built from 10,500 Iraqi date syrup cans. Since 1998, the Fourth Plinth Project has welcomed 12 artworks to this spot, the latest underlining the damage Iraq has sustained in recent years (www.london.gov.uk). It’s easy to overlook Victoria Tower Gardens between the Houses of Parliament and Lambeth Bridge, but seek it out and you’ll find a 1911 piece from Auguste Rodin’s The Burghers of Calais series. It’s one of the French master’s most famous sculptures and depicts six leading citizens (burghers) of Calais, who bravely offered their lives to end England’s year-long siege of the French town in 1347 (www.royalparks.org.uk). Make the short walk to Parliament Square to see the first sculpture of a woman there, among the likes of Winston Churchill and Nelson Mandela. Gillian Wearing’s work was unveiled this spring and depicts suffragist Millicent Fawcett, who fought political battles for women’s rights. Our final tip is Frieze Sculpture, which takes over Regent’s Park’s English gardens every summer until October, with a range of 20th-century and contemporary pieces. Take some scones, sandwiches and a blanket – it’s time for an art picnic (www.frieze.com).
TRAFALGAR SQUARE’S FOURTH PLINTH © CAROLINE TEO; SERPENTINE PAVILION © FRIDA ESCOBEDO, TALLER DE ARQUITECTURA, RENDERINGS BY ATMÓSFERA; JAUME PLENSA’S TRIBUTE TO DOM THIERRY RUINART AT FRIEZE SCULPTURE 2017 © STEPHEN WHITE COURTESY OF STEPHEN WHITE/FRIEZE; MILLICENT FAWCETT STATUE © GLA/CAROLINE TEO
Clockwise from this image: Lamassu in Trafalgar Square; Serpentine Pavilion; Frieze Sculpture; Millicent Fawcett statue in Parliament Square
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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89
Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tours from 11am onwards (check for dates and times). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £23; child £15. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/ tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. To 31 Aug: Gold Rush! A childfriendly treasure hunt. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland. co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
Benjamin Franklin House Charming 18th-century townhouse and home of the American Founding Father. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical shows: adult £8; child free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities including treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 0207323 8299. D7/8. Station: Russell Square.
The Cartoon Museum Dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today, with a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.
Charles Dickens Museum Former home of the Victorian novelist. To 11 Nov: Charles Dickens: Man of Science. Discover how Dickens explained science to his readers. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; open until 8pm once a month, check website for dates. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelsea fc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
The Foundling Museum
In this former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former inmates; check for Haunted Happenings events. Mon-Sun 10am-9pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Britain’s original home for abandoned children. Please check for regular exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The Design Museum
Located in an historic church, this is the last resting place of plant hunters John Tradescant Snr and Jnr, with artefacts, a replica 17th-century knot garden. Sun-Fri 10.30am-5pm; Sat 10.30am-4pm. Closed first Mon of the month. Adult £10; child £2.50 (when accompanied by an adult). www.gardenmuseum. org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North/Westminster.
This is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. To 12 Aug: Hope to Nope: Graphics and Politics 2008-2018. Celebrating the role of design in politics. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with examples from the 12th century to the present. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Fashion and Textile Museum Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Florence Nightingale Museum Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse. Free 15-min tour Mon-Fri 3.30pm; Sat-Sun 11.30am & 3.30pm. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The Garden Museum
The Guards Museum The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.
Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurer Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and musical instruments. To 9 Sep: Coral: Fabric of the Reef. Artist Karen Dodd uses wool to draw attention to coral reefs. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.
House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration. To 30 Sep: Quentin Blake: Voyages to the Moon and the Sun. Illustrations penned by Blake for the French literary classic, written by Cyrano de Bergerac in the 17th century. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
What you really, really want! Are you excited by the title of this story? Then we’ve got some news for you: the largest touring exhibition of Spice Girls memorabilia is touching down at the Business Design Centre in Angel (to 20 Aug). Called Spiceup, it’s an avalanche of merchandise, costumes and glorious pop tackiness of the highest order – Girl Power crusaders can never have too much tackiness. Big Bus Tours is also involved: two-hour tours take fans from the venue, around London’s Spiciest sites and back again, all while listening to – well, we’re sure you can guess that part. You can also hop on board the Spice Bus from the Spice World film. If you’re a real fan, you’ll wannabe here. 52 Upper St, N1 0QH. T: 020-7288 6475. www.spicegirlsexhibition.com
BOOTS COURTESY OF SPICEUP EXHIBITION
Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum
Clink Prison Museum
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MUSEUMS
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TATE MODERN U NTIL 9 SEP 2018
THE E Y EXHIBITION
PIC ASSO 1932 LOVE, FAME & TR AGEDY TH E GUARDIAN BBC ON LIN E TH E TELEGR APH TH E TIME S E VENING STAN DARD F R E E F O R TAT E M E M B E R S T H E E YA L O F E R G A L L E R I E S With additional support from the Picasso Exhibition Supporters Circle, Tate Americas Foundation, Tate International Council, Tate Patrons and Tate Members
The EY Tate Arts Partnership
Media partner
Pablo Picasso Girl Before a Mirror (Jeune Fille devant un miroir) 1932 Museum of Modern Art, New York (MOMA) © Succession Picasso/DACS, London 2018
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum. co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.
Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to conflicts from World War I to conflicts today, particularly involving Britain. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.
Jack the Ripper Museum More than just an exploration of the serial killer’s terrible crimes, within this Victorian house you’ll also discover the history of east London. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adults £12; child £8. www.jack the rippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today. To 30 Sep: Astérix in Britain: The Life and Work of René Goscinny. This tells the story of the Astérix comics, through rare scripts, sketches and more. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. Includes paintings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm; tour at 3pm every Wed and Sun (included in price). Adult £9; child £7. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles from the film series, including the Aston Martin DB5. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.
London Transport Museum This museum (p. 67) displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include the world’s first Underground steam train. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum, which includes displays on Roman and Medieval London. Votes for Women highlights suffragette artefacts. To 11 Nov: London Nights. Photographs of the capital after dark from the late 19th century to the modern day. Check for regular family events. Daily 10am6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Remembering a legend One hundred years ago this summer, Nelson Mandela was born in Mvezo village in South Africa. This month, the Southbank Centre is commemorating his life and legacy with a free display: The Centenary Exhibition (to 19 Aug). On show in the Queen Elizabeth Hall foyer, it’s a collaboration with the Apartheid Museum and the AntiApartheid Movement Archives. Britain was a key player in the deep segregation of Mandela’s homeland, but the former South African president was a true peacemaker. On a visit to Britain in 1996, he said: ‘The response of the people of this country exceeded my wildest expectations. I love every one of you.’ Now that’s how you do diplomacy. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. www.southbankcentre.co.uk
National Maritime Museum
Science Museum
The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including the Nelson, Navy, Nation gallery exploring the life of the naval hero. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.
A huge, family-friendly museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements. To Nov: IVF: Six Million Babies Later. Honouring 40 years since the first IVF baby was born. Daily 10am-6pm; adult-only Lates programme last Wed of every month, 6.45pm-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Natural History Museum A family-friendly museum, with dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 16 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. See live butterflies and moths. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
The Postal Museum Explore postal history and take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels which was used to transport post for 75 years until 2003. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum only adult £11, child free; museum and Mail Rail adult £17.05, child £10.45. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Farringdon.
Queen’s House This 17th-century house boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a fine art collection spanning 400 years. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 0208858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
Sea Creatures To 30 Aug: This exhibition at Westminster’s Royal Horticultural Halls (p. 48) offers a glimpse inside the bodies of animals including sharks. Fri-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-9pm. Adult £20; child £14. www.seacreaturestour.com. Lawrence Hall, Greycoat St, SW1P 2QD. T: 020-821 3650. G7. Station: St James’s Park/Victoria.
Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane. Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Somerset House This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery. To 22 Aug: The Influence Project. A photography exhibition about black music culture, depicting the people whose work has influenced the contemporary musical landscape. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.
NELSON MANDELA © LOUISE GUBB/CORBIS SABA-CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES
Jewish Museum
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Twinings Museum This flagship store since 1706 has a mini exhibition about the tea company’s 300-year history. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion. To 4 Nov: Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up. Celebrating the late Mexican artist’s highly styled life. To 4 Nov: The Future Starts Here. Discover the innovations that aim to change our world. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art. Paintings include Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street. Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. To 16 Sep: Teeth. The evolution of our relationship with our teeth. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent champions. New exhibition Through the Hoops: Croquet at Wimbledon charts the development of croquet, the first sport to be played on Wimbledon’s lawns. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child with each adult ticket. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
World Rugby Museum Relaunched for 2018 following a significant refurbishment, this showcase for global rugby culture is located in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.
GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery This is a multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces. To 2 Sep: Dorothea Lange/Vanessa Winship. A retrospective of the photographer Lange, alongside photographer Winship’s show of her poetic work. Barbican Centre. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art, housing more than 1,000 works and hosting regular talks and events. Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Admission £5. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.
Water world An unusual exploration of marine life has washed ashore in Westminster, with the arrival of Sea Creatures at the Royal Horticultural Halls (until 30 Aug; p. 46). The exhibition gives visitors a glimpse inside the bodies of animals including great white sharks, stingrays and octopuses, using the plastination process to create biological cross-sections. If you’re a fan of Damien Hirst’s notorious animal artworks, such as the gaping shark he suspended in formaldehyde, then this is the attraction for you. In fact, Hirst used the same process as the team behind Sea Creatures, which involves substituting natural fluids for resin. The results offer a dramatic, fresh perspective on the natural world. Sir David Attenborough obviously agrees, because you can also watch his groundbreaking Blue Planet documentary series in the cinema here.
The Courtauld Gallery
Hayward Gallery
Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld. ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.
This recently refurbished gallery is home to visual arts and modern art. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for certain exhibitions. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Hayward Gallery, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, designed by Sir John Soane and founded in 1811, holds a great collection of Old Masters. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £8.18; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery. org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.
ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts)
Estorick Collection
One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. To 7 Oct: Ed Ruscha: Course of Empire. A partner show for Eden to Empire, Ruscha’s depictions of Los Angeles. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Bijou gallery specialising in Italian art. To 16 Sep: The Art of Campari. A celebration of the drinks brand. Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces. To 28 Oct: Sublime Symmetry. Uncover the mathematics behind the Victorian ceramic designer William De Morgan’s intricate work. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
Exhibitions of contemporary art plus a restaurant, bookshop and cinema. Tue-Sun 11am-11pm; ICA galleries Tue-Sun 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free; no admission fee Tue. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The National Gallery
National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries. To 21 Oct: Michael Jackson: On the Wall. A look at the artists who have been inspired by the King of Pop, including Andy Warhol. Sat-Thur 10am6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
IMAGE COURTESY OF SEA CREATURES
Wellcome Collection
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Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from the modern artist’s extensive art collection. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall. London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Queen’s Gallery Includes treasures from the Royal Collection. To 14 Oct: Splendours of the Subcontinent. South Asian art and manuscripts spanning the past 400 years. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.
Royal Academy of Arts Admire RA Collection works in all media. To 19 Aug: Summer Exhibition. The annual celebration of contemporary art. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Royal Society of Sculptors Located within Old Brompton Road’s Dora House, this hub for professional sculptors hosts regular exhibitions. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat 1pm-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors.org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 020-7373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.
Saatchi Gallery
He’s got a few stories to tell. Meet the locals. Come face to face with British history. npg.org.uk Free admission
Leicester Square
NPG_MTL_WhereLondon_1-3Square_124x118_AW1.indd 1
Contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 0207811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Charing Cross
William Shakespeare (detail), associated with John Taylor, circa 1600-1610 © National Portrait Gallery, London
The Photographers’ Gallery
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Serpentine Gallery This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern art (p. 42). To 7 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion. This year’s piece is by Mexico’s Frida Escobedo. Daily 10am6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art. To 27 Aug: All Too Human: Bacon, Freud and a Century of Life Painting. How painters in Britain depict human figures. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Tate Modern World-class modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 9 Sep: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy (p. 14). A look at one of the most dramatic years of Picasso’s life. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. www.wheretraveler.com 49
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
Lights, camera, London! Sarah Riches finds out where you can watch classic and contemporary films on outdoor screens the performance artist Mel Brimfield and filmmaker Ewan Jones Morris, both of whom are residents in Somerset House Studios. The season kicks off with the UK premiere of The Wife, starring Glenn Close and Jonathan Pryce, about a faithful wife emerging from her famous husband’s shadow on the eve before he’s due to receive the Nobel Prize in Literature. Close and director Björn Runge will be at Somerset House to introduce the film. Other highlights include the 2010 sci-fi film Inception directed by Christopher Nolan, which sees Leonardo DiCaprio stealing information from people’s subconscious. The Wizard of Oz and Labyrinth, starring the late David Bowie, will be screened on the same night, while Alfred Hitchcock fans won’t want to miss his first American film, Rebecca, starring Laurence Olivier and Joan Fontaine. Oscar-winning documentary 20 Feet from Stardom, which shines a light on backing singers, will also be screened. The event ends with the UK premiere of American Animals, which will be introduced by director Bart Layton in person. His thriller is based on the true story of students who attempt an art theft.
FILM & FIZZ Watch a film in style over a glass of Champagne in the 30-seat cinema at One Aldwych London (above). Afterwards, enjoy a meal in the hotel’s restaurant, Indigo. www.onealdwych.com
SECRET CINEMA Secret Cinema’s latest venture is the Baz Luhrmann film from 1996, Romeo + Juliet (8-25 Aug). Dress in fancy dress, follow the instructions to a secret location and immerse yourself in scenes inspired by the film. www.secretcinema.org
THE LUNA CINEMA Watch films on screens across the capital, from Notting Hill in Opera Holland Park to The Shape of Water at Hampton Court Palace. www.thelunacinema.com
SOMERSET HOUSE © JAMES BRYANT PHOTOGRAPHY; ONE ALDWYCH © NICK ROCHOWSKI PHOTOGRAPHY LTD
Pack a picnic and cuddle up at sunset for a romantic evening, as Film4 Summer Screen returns to Somerset House (9-22 Aug; p. 46). Since 2005, more than 2,000 film fans every night have gathered in the courtyard of the arts venue to watch classic and contemporary films on London’s largest outdoor screen. You sit on cobbles, so smuggle a pillow out of your hotel to keep you comfy as you watch comedies, musicals, thrillers and foreign-language flicks. As well as UK and world premieres, the festival hosts Behind the Screen, a series of special events, talks and a workshop by film magazine Little White Lies. DJs perform sets inspired by the films, while food and drinks stalls selling sourdough pizzas and nachos with homemade salsas will help you make a night of it. You can also pre-order a hamper of Loch Fyne smoked salmon platters with soda bread and pear chutney, savoury tarts, truffle crisps and macarons from the venue’s restaurant Bryn Williams. The season’s theme is Dreams and Fantasies: Somerset House has commissioned a short film, For Sooth, with a dream theme, which will be screened each night. The film is by
Movie magic
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 88-89. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)
Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World, Friend Like Me and Arabian Nights with lyrics by Sir Tim Rice, plus a real magic carpet – just how do they do that? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£149.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Bat Out of Hell This brilliant Meat Loaf jukebox musical is set in the dark post-apocalyptic world of Obsidian. It features moving motorbikes and flames on stage. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£175. www.batoutofhellmusical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Beautiful Game 15-18 Aug: Andrew Lloyd Webber and Ben
Elton’s The Beautiful Game is the story of ordinary people in an extraordinary situation. The awardwinning musical follows the fortunes of a group of teenagers from both sides of the religious divide during the Troubles in 1960s Belfast. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. Off map. Station: Victoria.
The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards, including Best New Musical. To 18 Aug: Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. From 18 Aug: Please check for times. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.
Brief Encounter Noël Coward’s screenplay, Brief Encounter, about a happily married woman whose life changes in a moment, is brought alive in this musical adaptation by Shakespeare Globe’s former artistic director, Emma Rice. This is an Old Vic production. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£52.50. www.empirecinemas.co.uk. Empire Cinema Haymarket, 63-65 Haymarket, SW1Y 4RL. E7. Station: Piccadilly.
Bring It On From 2 Aug: This Broadway musical about cheerleading has a hit crew behind it: an original story from Tony Award-winner Jeff Whitty (Avenue Q), music and lyrics by Tony Award-winning composer Lin-Manuel Miranda (In the Heights, Hamilton), music by the Pulitzer- and Tony Award-winning composer Tom Kitt, and lyrics by Broadway lyricist Amanda Green (High Fidelty). No wonder it was nominated for the Tony Award for Best Musical. Tickets £14-£25. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
Planting ideas For a change of scenery, you can watch a show under the stars this month at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre. The annual summer season, curated by artistic director Timothy Sheader, opened in May and closes with Little Shop of Horrors (from 3 Aug; p. 65). Based on Roger Corman’s 1960 black comedy, the rock musical is directed by Maria Aberg with music by Alan Menken. It follows a flower shop that is on the verge of closing down until the owner discovers a mysterious plant which can talk. This dramatic discovery turns his store’s fortunes around – but to survive, the plant needs human blood.
Broken Wings
42nd Street
1-4 Aug: Musical adaptation of the poet Kahil
Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams who’s stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady Dorothy Brock (Lulu) gets injured, Peggy finally has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Gibran’s 1912 masterpiece. Set in New York in 1923, it transports you to turn-of-the-century Beirut. 7.30pm (& 2.30pm 4 Aug). Tickets £10£96.50. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chicago the Musical Martin Kemp stars as Billy in this jazz musical based on real murder cases in the 1920s. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£150. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Dreamgirls Musical about a female singing trio from Chicago. Classic songs include And I Am Telling You I’m Not Going, I Am Changing, Listen and One Night Only. Join these friends as they embark upon a musical rollercoaster ride through a world of fame, fortune and the ruthless realities of show business, testing their friendships to the very limit. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15£175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Everybody’s Talking about Jamie This feel-good musical is set on a council estate in Sheffield, northern England, and tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice. This is inspired by a true story. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalking aboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Fun Home To 1 Sep: Winner of five Tony Awards, this Broadway version of Alison Bechdel’s graphic novel took the States by storm. The audience meets Alison at three stages of her life as she delves into memories of her 1970s childhood in a funeral home, her college love life and her coming out. As she looks back on her complex relationship with her father, she finds they had more in common than she ever knew. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£40. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7452 3000. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Heathers the Musical To 4 Aug: Inspired by the cult 1980s film starring Christian Slater and Winona Ryder, this dark comedy is written by Laurence O’Keefe and Kevin Murphy. It features new songs and stars Carrie Hope Fletcher as Veronica Sawyer, another nobody dreaming of a better day at Westerberg High. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£75. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 020-7087 7900. F7. Station: Victoria.
LITTLE SHOP OF HORRORS COURTESY OF REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H
THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com
CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU
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ENTERTAINMENT The King and I Watch Broadway royalty Kelli O’Hara and film star Ken Watanabe make their West End debuts in this Rodgers and Hammerstein musical, set in 1860s Bangkok. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £15-£82.50. www.kingandimusical.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business, after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125.
www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. The sung-through musical features the songs I Dreamed a Dream, and Do You Hear the People Sing? Follow the story of convict Jean Valjean, as he turns away from crime. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £47.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.
Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Enjoy famous songs by Sir Elton John and Tim Rice, including I Just Can’t Wait to be King and Can You Feel the Love Tonight? Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £47.50-£236.75. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. The show is one of the longest-running musicals in the West End, and is now entering its 20th year. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm; & 3pm 7 & 21 Aug. Tickets £33-£150. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Matilda the Musical
DAILY MAIL, GUARDIAN, RADIO TIMES, WHATSONSTAGE
ALL SINGING! ALL DANCING! ALL LAUGHING!
Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl who is a gifted student, but also has magic powers. She is ignored by her family and at odds with her evil headmistress, Miss Trunchball. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Motown the Musical Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. One of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s most-loved musicals, it is one of the longest-running shows in the West End and has won numerous awards. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’ll be a smash here, too. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (& 8 Aug); Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£129.50. www.school ofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Strictly Ballroom the Musical
0330 333 4811 | GARRICK THEATRE | YoungFrankenstein.co.uk 2 Charing Cross Road, London, WC2H 0HH |
Leicester Square
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Olivier Award-winning choreographer Drew McOnie directs Will Young in this Baz Luhrmann musical, which is adapted from the 1992 film of the same name. It follows Scott, a competitive ballroom dancer who insists on bending the rules to create his own moves. It features familiar songs such as Love is in the Air, Time After Time, Perhaps Perhaps Perhaps and Standing in the Rain. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£129.50. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
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ENTERTAINMENT Thriller Live Conceived by Adrian Grant and the Jackson family, this is a tribute to Michael Jackson. Enjoy non-stop songs and dance in this celebration of the King of Pop’s career. The jukebox show takes you from the singer’s early performing days to the debut of his moonwalk and beyond. If you never saw Jackson live, this is the closest you will get. Please check for times and prices. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tina A new musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become singing superstar Tina Turner. Expect hits including the 1984 classic What’s Love Got to Do with It? – which won four Grammy Awards – as well as River Deep – Mountain High, A Fool in Love and, of course, The Best. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£85. www.tina themusical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. This reimagining has become one of the longest-running musicals in the West End; it celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2016. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.75-£175. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
Triple act A trio of top talent is behind the UK premiere of Carmen La Cubana at Sadler’s Wells (1-18 Aug; p. 65). In this production, George Bizet’s tragic romantic opera, Carmen,, and Oscar Hammerstein II’s musical adaptation Carmen Jones are given a Cuban twist. The team behind it includes director Christopher Renshaw, the Grammy and Tony Award-winning orchestrator Alex Lacamoire and Cuban choreographer Roclan González Chávez. The story is set on the eve of the 1950s Cuban revolution with the action happening in and around a cigar factory in the rural south east and the bars of Santiago and Havana. Enjoy rumba, cha-cha-cha and mambo set to a 12-strong band playing Afro-Cuban rhythms and Bizet tunes on classical and Latin American instruments.
HHHHH
‘FIVE STARS FOR A SUMPTUOUS KING AND I
BOOK NOW. IT’S A HIT’ TH E TI M E S
THE LINCOLN CENTER THEATER PRODUCTION
RODGERS & HAMMERSTEIN’S
DIRECTED BY
KELLI O’HARA
KEN WATANABE
‘SIMPLY SPELLBINDING SPELLBINDING’
‘THUNDEROUS CHARISMA’
IS
FI NAN CIAL TI M E S
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NOW PLAYING AT THE LONDON PALLADIU M
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CARMEN LA CUBANA © MARIE-NOELLE ROBERT
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ENTERTAINMENT Young Frankenstein The legendary filmmaker and comedian Mel Brooks brings this classic monster musical comedy to life on stage in an all-singing, all-dancing musical collaboration with the Tony Award-winning Broadway director and choreographer Susan Stroman. Suitable for all ages, with parental guidance. Please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
PLAYS As You Like It To 26 Aug: A firm favourite among Shakespeare’s comedies, this features some of his best-loved characters. It also includes pastoral romance, cross-dressing, satire, forgiveness and reparation. Watch as Rosalind, the daughter of an unjustly exiled duke, falls in love with the wronged Orlando. Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
The Comedy About a Bank Robbery A hilarious play, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong, about six incompetent crooks who are desperate to get hold of a diamond. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Swan along to this The classical ballet Swan Lake is returning to the London Coliseum (from 22 Aug; p. 64). The St Petersburg Ballet Theatre will perform the love story to Tchaikovsky’s original score, which is played by a live orchestra. Classical ballet fans can lament the fate of Prince Siegfried, who falls in love with Odette, a princess who was turned into a swan by an evil sorcerer. The prima ballerina Irina Kolesnikova (Odette) is joined on stage by Denis Rodkin (the prince), a principal dancer from the Bolshoi Ballet. Their parts will be shared by Anna Nikulina – also a principal dancer from the Bolshoi Ballet – and Kimin Kim, a principal dancer from the Mariinsky Ball, who will keep you on your toes.
‘THE ULTIMATE FEEL- GOOD SHOW!’
0844 482 5115 NOVELLO THEATRE
ALDWYCH I WC2B 4LD I
COVENT GARDEN
A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE
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© LITTLESTAR
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SWAN LAKE COURTESY OF LONDON COLISEUM
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ENTERTAINMENT Consent To 11 Aug: Friends take opposing briefs in a contentious legal case. The key witness is a woman whose life seems a world away from theirs. At home, their own lives begin to unravel as every version of the truth is challenged. Check for times. Tickets £10-£95. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Magic moments Enter a fantastical world at Sounds and Sorcery at The Vaults, in the tunnels beneath Waterloo Station. Inspired by the animated scenes set to classical music in Disney’s 1940 film Fantasia, during the experience you will roam freely around the tunnels while wearing headphones and connected to an iPod. Suitable for adults and children, the show blends comedy, ballet, drama and music from the film played against 3D projections and flashing lights. You might find yourself dancing with a hippo, looking for fairies in a forest or sneaking into a sorcerer’s lair… Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. www.thevaults.london
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this show based on the cult TV comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50-£79.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Gangsta Granny To 26 Aug: Friday nights are about to get more exciting for Ben as he embarks on an adventure with Gangsta Granny! Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Goodnight Mr Tom To 25 Aug: Set during the build-up to World War II, this play follows a miserable young boy who is evacuated to the English countryside, where he builds a friendship with an elderly recluse. Check for times. Tickets £16-£20. www.southwark playhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
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ENTERTAINMENT Hamlet To 26 Aug: Learning of his father’s
death, Prince Hamlet comes home to find his uncle married to his mother and installed on the Danish throne. At night, the ghost of the old king demands that Hamlet avenge his ‘foul and most unnatural murder.’ Please check for times. Tickets £5-£22. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The long-awaited two-part adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story has already won many awards. Father-of-three Harry now works for the
Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Most tickets are sold out; please check for returns, prices and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Home, I’m Darling To 5 Sep: Katherine Parkinson (TV’s The IT Crowd,
Humans) plays Judy in this unsettling new comedy. This is all about one woman’s unusual quest to be the perfect 1950s housewife. Please check for times and returns. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
SEE YOU IN
COURT
Imperium I Conspirator & II Dictator Told through the watchful eyes of Cicero’s loyal secretary, these plays chronicle how the great orator’s early success unwittingly paves the way for a brutal and bloody end to the republic. You can choose to enjoy one play or both. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £10-£99.50. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.
Killer Joe To 18 Aug: Orlando Bloom stars as a police officer who moonlights as a killer-for-hire in this dark comedy/thriller. Suitable for over 16s. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Please check for prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.
King Lear Ian McKellen stars as a mad king in the title role of this Shakespeare tragedy. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£145. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
The Lieutenant of Inishmore This satire on terrorism stars Aidan Turner – best known for playing the title role in the BBC TV series Poldark – as Mad Padraic, a terrorist deemed too violent to be a member of the IRA, in this comical observation of violence in contemporary culture. Suitable for over 16s. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £10-£109. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. The play was originally written for Queen Mary as a birthday present, and was a radio play. The original cast included Richard Attenborough. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Othello André Holland takes the title role in William Shakespeare’s tragedy about a general whose jealousy is exploited by his junior officer, Iago (Mark Rylance). Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
The Play That Goes Wrong Award-winning comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Pressure
A UNIQUE COURTROOM STAGING | NOW PLAYING LONDON COUNTY HALL |
witnesscountyhall.com
To 1 Sep: D-Day, June 1944. The Allied forces, led by General Eisenhower, are poised to launch. Around 350,000 lives are at stake and the decision of whether or not to attack comes down to the most important weather forecast of all time. Olivier Award-winner David Haig plays the Scottish meteorologist, Group Captain James, Stagg in this true story. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£75. www.theambassadorstheatre. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
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Witness for the Prosecution This new show is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama, Witness for the Prosecution, and is staged in a former courtroom. Directed by Lucy Bailey, the audience acts as the jury for Leonard Vole, who is accused of murdering a widow to inherit her wealth. Tickets from £10-£75. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE
The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £22.50-£85. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall is home to the annual BBC Proms (see Festivals & Events). www.royal alberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.
St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 0207381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church
‘HUGELY RECOMMENDED. A PERFECT D-DAY STORM!’ MAIL ON SUNDAY DAVID HAIG MALCOLM SINCLAIR LAURA ROGERS
Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Cafe This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 2 Aug: Fatback Band. 5 Aug: The Family Stone. 4 Aug: DJ Yoda Carnival Special. Check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
OBSERVER
EVENING STANDARD
The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 10-11 Aug: Iron Maiden. 24-26 Aug: Britney Spears. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 4-5 Aug: Roberto Fonseca Trio. 20-21 Aug: Black Art Jazz Collective. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
DANCE London Coliseum
LIMITED SEASON UNTIL 1 SEPTEMBER
PressurePlay.co.uk 020 7395 5405
AMBASSADORS THEATRE
WC2H 9ND
From 22 Aug: Swan Lake. The classic ballet is performed by the St Petersburg Ballet Theatre, along with Irina Kolesnikova as Odette (p. 58). Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
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ENTERTAINMENT Royal Festival Hall 17-19 Aug: Circus 250. Watch this free show
that combines dance, hula hooping, acrobatics and more. Please check for times. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
Sadler’s Wells 1-18 Aug: Carmen la Cubana. UK premiere (p. 56). Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Double Act
Little Angel by the Sea To 5 Aug: Follow the story of
Ruby and Garnet. They are twins, identical and inseparable – and do absolutely everything together. But their lives change when their dad begins dating and buys a bookshop. Vicky Ireland’s funny and gripping stage adaptation is based on Jacqueline Wilson’s multi-award-winning book, and it was an instant hit when it premiered at Polka Theatre in 2003 and became loved by thousands of children during a UK tour. This is suitable for children over seven. Please check for times and prices. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 0207226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
To 5 Aug: Enjoy this immersive puppetry experience, which is based on Punch & Judy shows. Find out who has stolen all the sausages. Was it the crocodile with his gnashing jaw, or somebody else altogether? This playful mix of sand play, puppet making and a whodunnit mystery is perfect for children. This is suitable for children aged three to nine. The theatre was created in 1961 by a troupe of puppeteers under the leadership of John Wright, and is famous for its puppet shows. Please check for times and prices. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
BBC Proms To 8 Sep: This historical, annual festival aims to bring classical music to the masses. Its increasingly diverse programme has something for everyone, combining evening and late-night concerts and chamber music at venues including Cadogan Hall. There are also family-friendly shows, and Proms in the Park. Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk/proms. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Film4 Summer Screen 9-22 Aug: Watch classic and blockbuster films
on cobbles in Somerset House’s spectacular courtyard under the stars. There are also premieres of new movies and special talks by people in the film industry. Laugh, cry, jump out of your skin and cheer along with 2,000 other film fans under the stars (p. 50). Please check for full schedule, times and prices. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple/Charing Cross.
Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre Watch shows under the stars including Dinosaur World Live and Little Shop of Horrors in the glorious surroundings of Regent’s Park (p. 52). Check for times and prices. www.openairtheatre.com. Open Air Theatre, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.
Summer by the River This free, outdoor summer festival has an English country garden theme. Enjoy free film and sports screenings, live music, fun fitness classes and family-friendly workshops along the Thames. Tuck into street food from some of London’s top vendors at garden-themed pop-ups throughout the festival. Film screenings include the tale of King Arthur and The Wonderful Wizard of Oz with action-packed theatre performances for all the family. www.londonbridgecity.co.uk. London Bridge City, SE1 2DB. E11. Station: London Bridge.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Monster Calls To 25 Aug: Patrick Ness’ novel about loss and healing is brought to life by director Sally Cookson. Thirteen-year-old Conor and his mother have managed since his father moved to America, but now his mother is sick and she’s not getting any better. His grandmother won’t stop interfering and the kids at school won’t look him in the eye. Then, one night, Conor is woken by a monster at his window who’s come to tell him tales. This adaptation is suitable for over 10s. Please check for times and prices. www.oldvic theatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
WITH AFTERNOON TEA Experience London’s most beloved venue followed by a traditional afternoon tea
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Here comes the sun When the sun comes out, so too do shopping events, from al fresco entertainment to pop-up stalls. Enjoy some of the city’s most popular shopping venues in a different way, says Kohinoor Sahota Westfield London in Shepherd’s Bush has recently undergone a major refurbishment. Previously the capital’s largest shopping centre, it’s now the largest in Europe after the multi-million-pound revamp. The expansion includes new additions such as Bo Concept, Adidas, Bravissimo and the popular budget department store, Primark. During the summer, Westfield Presents kicks off – a programme of music, sport and technology. Each month has a different theme (p. 67). This is the fourth year that the shopping centre has put together the programme, which will keep the family entertained. August activities focus on art and colour, while in September it’s all about design. If you want to drop off your children while you shop, take advantage of a fun fair, which has opened in Westfield Shepherd’s Bush and Westfield Stratford in east London. Carnaby Street (p. 67) is one of the capital’s most famous shopping streets. Celebrities from Jimi Hendrix to Paul McCartney shopped here in the 1960s, and this month you can
eat your way around the street as the food festival Carnaby Street Eat (11 Aug; noon6pm) takes place. As the area is home to various restaurants, you can sample dishes for £5 – stalls include Wright Brothers, Shoryu and Dirty Bones. Sit in a deck chair, listen to DJs and get a taste of London in the sunshine. If you love designer names at a discount, visit Bicester Village (p. 67). Located 46 minutes by train from London Marylebone and in the heart of Oxfordshire, it has stores from Burberry to Barbour. Look out for its summer events – you can enjoy its al fresco Summer Garden Terrace, complete with jazz music, every weekend. The British designer Tom Dixon is making his Bicester Village debut, and his boutique will showcase the best of his accessories for
the home. Inside the village’s glasshouse, you will find a pop-up from the British brand Neom Organics. Take your pick from natural wax candles, fragrances and oils – there are also sets that are only available here. Fitting with its upmarket brands, it’s no surprise to find upmarket eateries. Corbin & King has opened its first restaurant outside of London: Café Wolseley. Inspired by The Wolseley in St James, which is famous for its British breakfasts, here you can enjoy bites including gourmet sandwiches, seasonal salads, afternoon tea and cakes. There are also gifts, from chocolate truffles to tea sets. And, with the longer summer evenings, the venue remains open longer: 9am-9pm Monday to Wednesday, and until 10pm on Thursday to Saturday. Happy shopping!
BICESTER VILLAGE AND STRAWBERRIES COURTESY OF BICESTER VILLAGE; WESTFIELD LONDON COURTESY OF WESTFIELD LONDON
This image: Bicester Village Right: Westfield London Below: Strawberries at Bicester Village
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89
MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Carnaby Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area still appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers (p. 66). D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
King’s Road This iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with antique and furniture shops. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park.
MAJOR STORES Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Hamleys Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Harrods Food and meat halls, fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
John Lewis
ILLUMINATED ROUNDEL COURTESY OF LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
Find covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.john lewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Liberty Find trendy prints on everything from scarves to notebooks. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion, as well as bars and restaurants. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products (multiple locations around London). www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.
Christian Louboutin Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of chic red-soled shoes from Louboutin (multiple locations). www.christian louboutin.com. 17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ. T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.
Gucci As one of the most desirable luxury brands in the world, Gucci brings its legendary Italian quality and innovative design to London (multiple locations). www.gucci.com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE. T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Hermès Staying true to high-quality accessories like belts, this store offers the finest from the French brand (multiple locations around London). www.hermes.com. 1 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PX. T: 020-7823 1014. F5. Station: Sloane Square.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS
SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
Japan Centre Seek out the subterranean shop for sushi, hot dishes, Japanese ingredients such as tea and seaweed and beautiful ceramics. www.japancentre.com. Please check for opening times. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
London Glassblowing Pick up a souvenir and try glassblowing in a session at the UK’s foremost studio and gallery for contemporary glass art. www.londonglassblowing. co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading from 1706 – and is filled with a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire (p. 66). Please check for times. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.
Westfield London This mall has more than 450 shops, from high-street names to high-end labels (p. 66). www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Westfield Stratford City Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino (p. 66). www.westfield.com/ stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 0208221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris This esteemed British jewellery brand offers beautiful couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.
Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
FASHION
KIDS’ STORES
Burberry
LEGO Store
Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing (and branches). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Sign of the times The Tube roundel is one of the most recognisable symbols across the world. Now, for the first time, you can take home a version of it that lights up. The signs are exclusive to the shop in the London Transport Museum (p. 46), which is home to illustrated maps, posters, mugs featuring Tube-tile patterns and books on the history of the London Underground. The sign has 10 interchangeable station names, from Piccadilly Circus to Covent Garden, as well as the classic ‘mind the gap’ slogan. Whether you mount it on the wall or stand it up, this is a quirky addition for your home.
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Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. This chocolate shop has mouthwatering truffles, which are presented in beautiful boxes. The café serves a huge choice of treats from chocolate cakes to hot chocolate. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com
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© Bicester Village 2018 07/18 5225
Find your fabulous at Bicester Village, Oxfordshire’s luxury shopping destination, with trains from 46 minutes departing from London Marylebone. The Village is home to more than 160 boutiques, including Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith and Mulberry, all offering savings of up to 60% on the recommended retail price all year round, plus instant tax refunds on shopping for visitors from outside the EU. This summer, visit Secret Garden Terrace to enjoy cocktails, the juiciest strawberries and sparkling English wine. Plus, visit Café Wolseley, the first restaurant outside London from the owners of renowned restaurant The Wolseley, and enjoy European café-style dining. BicesterVillage.com | #BicesterVillage |
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Star quality
Taste of Italy
The three Michelin-starred chef, Heinz Beck, has opened a new Italian restaurant in Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair. Beck worked in the three Michelin-starred Tantris in Munich and was awarded three stars for La Pergola in Rome before opening his first restaurant in London: Apsley’s in 2009 at The Lanesborough hotel. It gained a Michelin star the next year. More recently, Beck enjoyed a residency at Brown’s in 2017, serving Italian cuisine alongside drinks made by Salvatore Calabrese – the former president of the UK’s Bartender’s Guild. Now the chef is back with Beck at Brown’s, which has its own entrance and three areas – a bar, dining room and private dining space – separated by ornamental bronze screens. Beck says: ‘It’s an honour to have my own kitchen in such an illustrious hotel, with a new modern dining room that reflects the colours of Italy and the heritage of Italian cooking.’ Brown’s Hotel opened in 1837 and the restaurant still features the original 1900s oak panelling. But Rocco Forte Hotels’ design director, Olga Polizzi, has redesigned the space so it juxtaposes sculptures and antiques
alongside bold botanical wallpaper by Adam Ellis above the panelling, on-trend brass and turquoise velvet banquettes and cushions. Polizzi says: ‘Italy represents a huge part of my heritage, so it is wonderful that this is not only reflected in the cuisine but also in the large chandeliers we had commissioned from Florence, bringing an element of Italian flair to Brown’s British DNA.’ Just like the British-Italian interior, the cuisine blends the two cultures in the form of Italian dishes made with seasonal British ingredients. Expect a light, healthy menu that showcases cooking techniques across Italy, from meat and fish dishes from the mountains in the north to the citrus flavours of the sunny south. Start with small plates such as burrata cheese with marinated courgettes or dressed crab with grilled Romaine lettuce, then opt for homemade pasta such as risotto, artichokes and olive oil. Alternatively, go for grilled black cod with a crust of ’nduja and red peppers. Just make sure you save space for tiramisu. Delizioso! Brown’s Hotel, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4004. www.roccofortehotels.com
ARDICIOCCA If Italian cuisine appeals but you can’t tolerate gluten, head to Ardiciocca, London’s first gluten-, dairy- and sugar-free Italian restaurant (below). Located in Fulham, this is the fifth London restaurant from Roberto Costa, who founded the steak chain Macellaio RC. Ardiciocca serves organic, biodynamic wines and fruit and veg from small farms. 461-465 North End Rd, SW6 1NZ. T: 020-3848 6830. www.ardiciocca.com
GROM Cool down over a delicious gelato at the new Grom parlour off Piccadilly Circus. Grom’s produce is made from fruit from its organic farm in Piedmont in northern Italy and spring water, milk and cream from Piedmontese dairies. All the produce is churned daily, free from artificial additives, stabilisers and thickeners and is gluten-free. 18 Piccadilly, W1J 0DF. T: 020-7287 5300. www.grom.it
BECK AT BROWN’S INTERIOR © HOTEL PHOTOGRAPHY SRL.; BECK AT BROWN’S DISH © PAUL WINCH-FURNESS; ARDICIOCCA DISH COURTESY OF ARDICIOCCA
As a leading Michelin-starred chef is marrying British ingredients with Italian cooking techniques, Sarah Riches visits his new restaurant
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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 88-89
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Excellent choice for succulent Argentine steaks, with a wine bar, supper lounge and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gaucho restaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Goodman New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodman restaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, with rock memorabilia and a fun vibe. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Oblix Sophisticated rotisserie, grill and wood-fired oven serving dishes such as suckling pig for two. The views from midway up The Shard are stunning. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. Level 32, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Great Court Restaurant
St Pancras Brasserie
Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. The British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
All-day British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys stpancras.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Holborn Dining Room
Tom’s Kitchen
Smart brasserie next to the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist, plus a seafood counter. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.
Magpie Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes arriving to the tables on trolleys, dim-sum style. Highly recommended. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Montague This brasserie offers seasonal dishes and weekend brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.londonchurchill. regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 0207299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Rex Whistler Restaurant Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque and try an excellent wine list in a dining room with a whimsical, century-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Delightful all-day brasserie serving modern comfort food, popular for weekend brunch. ££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk. 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 020-7349 0202. Off map. Station: South Kensington.
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant Elegant restaurant, known for its sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
Café in the Crypt Underneath the church, or outside in the courtyard, you can dine on homely, good-value dishes. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
Cheneston’s Try pan-seared venison or Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia, and an international menu featuring Asian stir-fries, steaks and sliders. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine and fantastic views at this restaurant on The Shard’s 31st floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Aviary Smart restaurant with a rooftop terrace, serving British dishes, including an excellent Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.aviarylondon.com. Montcalm Royal London House hotel, 22-25 Finsbury Square, EC2A 1DX. T: 020-3873 4000. D10. Station: Moorgate.
CARAMEL COURTESY OF CARAMEL
Caxton Grill Superb selection of steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes. There’s also a bar and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.
Fera at Claridge’s Art Deco restaurant serving local, organic and British dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Sweet spot A contemporary American restaurant that’s a hit in the Gulf has opened in London. While chef Sunil Vaz has designed an all-day menu featuring spicy battered shrimp, beef sliders, lobster tempura and honey and pecorino ravioli, Caramel still credits its Middle Eastern background and London location. Founder Mohammed Al Hashimi says: ‘I’m confident the brand will fit in well in Knightsbridge. Each individual site is unique. At the London site, for example, we’ve added afternoon tea.’ Meanwhile, mixologist Bryan Pietersen has created cocktails including the Brompton Garden made with The London Essence Co bitter orange, and the Sweet Habibi – habibi means sweetheart in Arabic – made with Bacardi Blanca, lime and elderflower. The interior is designed by a Dubai-based firm and features marble counters, backlit onyx trims and quirky artwork. 272 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AW. T: 020-7589 0221. www.caramelgroup.com. G5. Station: South Kensington/Knightsbridge
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DINING The English Grill
The Delaunay
Hotel restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L, D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
In Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.
The Ritz Restaurant
Galvin at Windows
Enjoy superb cuisine in this dining room, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine from the Galvin Brothers. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate, with hearty, meaty dishes including rump steak and rib of beef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.
The Ivy
The Wolseley
OXO Tower
This firm favourite on London’s dining scene is loved by celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
FISH AND SEAFOOD Angler Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal produce. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.
Fancy Crab Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab fettucine and a crab burger. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.
J Sheekey Seafood and oyster restaurant with a Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop decorated with 1950s memorabilia. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies fishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast, plus a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.
Smart restaurant on the Thames with stunning views and excellent food, perfect for special occasions. ££££. Daily L & D. www.harveynichols.com. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.
CHINESE
Ting
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester
Located in The Shard, this venue serves European dishes with an Asian influence, plus great views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Exquisite food from this three Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Bright Courtyard Club Choose from Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including lobster with noodles and Peking duck, in a sleek setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.
FRENCH
Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 0203819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Hakkasan Fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant with stunning decor, serving modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. It is highly recommended. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair. co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. Take in glorious park views while dining on Sichuan cuisine, dim sum and spicy seafood dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang. co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Mouthwatering selection of hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Passion for pasta A new Turkish pasta restaurant has opened in Fitzrovia. The venture is a team effort between chef Selin Kiazim and sommelier Laura Christie. Kyseri is inspired by the Kayseri region in central Turkey and Kiazim’s Turkish Cypriot heritage. Try small plates of modern Turkish cuisine such as house-cured beef from Kayseri; Cypriot halloumi loaf and Black Sea fondue; and gözleme (flatbread) filled with Cornish duck breast, grape molasses and black garlic. But make sure you try the manti (pasta dumplings) and erişte (chopped egg noodles) served with sage, walnuts and lemon-braised greens. 64 Grafton Way, W1T 5DN. T: 020-7383 3717. www.kyseri.co.uk. C7. Station: Warren Street
BEEF AND SOUR CHERRY MANTI © HETTY DE GOEIJEN
Min Jiang
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DINING Brasserie Joël This excellent French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The real deal It’s only taken 74 years, but an Italian delicatessen in Soho has finally opened a restaurant. Lina Stores began selling pasta, olive oil and truffles in 1944, and became popular with Italian expats including organic chef Masha Rener. Rener kept in touch with the founders when she returned to Italy and now, 20 years on, she’s back – as the head chef of Lina Stores – 51 Greek Street. Expect classic dishes, regional specialities and family recipes such as crab, lemon and chilli spaghetti. The pasta is handmade daily – like it has been since 1944. 51 Greek St, W1D 4EH. T: 020-3929 0068. www.linastores.co.uk. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square
Brasserie Zédel This bustling French brasserie and bar is set in a grand dining room with a high ceiling. Its set menu is excellent value. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Céleste Michelin-starred French cuisine in a smart dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room shrouded in plants and flowers, with an excellent wine list. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sketch Five restaurants and bars under one roof, the Gallery is a stylish gastro brasserie adorned with art by David Shrigley. Great afternoon tea. ££££. Daily L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
GASTROPUBS The Eagle
The Wells This bright and airy pub near Hampstead Heath serves top-quality, seasonal British cuisine in a friendly, sophisticated environment. £££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
The Wigmore Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by Michel Roux Jr, in a refurbished bar with high ceilings and original Art Deco features. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore.co.uk. 15 Langham Place, Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists on Indian dishes, prepared in an open-grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Benares The Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates sophisticated modern Indian cuisine in his refined restaurant, with a delicious tasting menu and a cocktail lounge. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
Chutney Mary
Veeraswamy
Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes Pukka bar. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant is Michelinstarred, and has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six hour-cooked lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, serves North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Indian Accent Manish Mehrotra is regularly voted one of India’s best chefs and now he’s opened this first London branch of his New Delhi restaurant. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. www.indianaccent.com. E7. Station: Green Park.
Masala Zone In this vibrant restaurant, recently refurbished, enjoy tasty Indian street food, thalis and regional curries. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are served in this stylish restaurant. Try the venison pepper roast. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; daily D. www.mintleaf london.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tamarind In this smart Mayfair dining room, enjoy Michelinstarred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day-aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 0207958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Cavendish This brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
The Terrace With an opulent decor, this 150-year-old hotel restaurant and bar serves salads, burgers and Italian dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.ambahotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
ITALIAN Ask Italian Huge menu and outdoor seating at this friendly spot, with fresh pasta and pizzas. It is conveniently located close to Paddington Station. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian.co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.
PASTA DISH COURTESY OF LINA STORES – 51 GREEK STREET
One of London’s first gastropubs, this rustic venue offers superior dishes such as roast pork belly and grilled scallops, changing daily. £££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon. co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24
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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK
Time for tea
THE LANESBOROUGH
HUSH MAYFAIR
DUKES LONDON
To celebrate the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Frido Kahlo exhibition, The Lanesborough’s Michelin-starred head pastry chef has created a tea inspired by the Mexican artist. Start with Mexican hibiscus water, and opt for spiced hot chocolate instead of tea or coffee. As well as scones and sandwiches, treat yourself to a Mexican corn biscuit flavoured with dulce de leche; a Mexican chocolate tart scattered with sugar flowers; and an éclair featuring an edible painting of Kahlo. Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. www.gofortea.com/lanesborough
Treat yourself to a Gin & Jam Tea at Hush Mayfair’s Blades, which is decked out like a 1930s ocean liner with silk blinds, a handpainted mural, a hand-blown chandelier from Venice and 1920s gates on the wall. Bites include Hush gin and tonic oak-smoked salmon and cream cheese on rye bread, scones with gooseberry, blackberry and rhubarb jam, raspberry ripple lollipops and loose-leaf tea. The tea includes a gin cocktail of your choice, made with botanicals such as jasmine lotus. No 8 Lancashire Court, Brook St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7659 1500. www.gofortea.com/hush
Enjoy quintessentially British afternoon tea in the Drawing Room of Dukes London, which overlooks a courtyard garden. Indulge in sandwiches and scones with clotted cream, and after indulge in a doughnut praline, a shot of raspberry and pistachio truffle and cake. Wash it down with tea from The East India Company – which has been importing tea since 1600 – or as an extra, go for a MarTEAni afternoon tea and savour three mini Martinis created to pair with the meal. 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 0207491 4840. www.gofortea.com/dukes
SANDERSON LONDON
CROWNE PLAZA LONDON KENSINGTON
THE BLOOMSBURY
This Mad Hatters’ Tea, inspired by Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, is served in the courtyard, which has a fountain and swing seat decorated like the Queen of Hearts’ throne, adorned with pink roses and 50 flamingos. The menus are hidden within vintage books while the plates are decorated with clocks. Tuck into scones, sandwiches, a strawberry flamingo cake and a ‘Tweedle Dee’ lemon-curd cake. Sip cinnamon, apple and peach ‘Drink Me’ potions and Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé. 50 Berners St, W1T 3NG. T: 020-7300 1400. www.gofortea.com/sanderson
On a sunny day, sit in the secret garden at the back of this hotel – which has blankets and fire heaters – or in The Library or Kens Bar & Garden, which has garden views from its floor-to-ceiling windows. For something different, try the tea inspired by The Lion King. As well as vanilla scones and sandwiches, nibble on sweets such as an orange cupcake decorated with the lion Mufasa and a Simba mango mousse pot with chocolate ganache. 100 Cromwell Rd, SW7 4ER. T: 0871-942 9022. www.gofortea.com/crowneplaza
The Bloomsbury, a Grade II-listed hotel near The British Museum, has a bee-themed tea, in keeping with the summer vibe. Sit among blooms outside on the Dalloway Terrace or among palms in The Coral Room, a cocktail bar with coral-coloured walls, chandeliers and a marble bar. Tuck into honey-roast ham sandwiches, honey and jasmine parfait, and a morello cherry scone served with raw honey, jam and clotted cream. Dishes come paired with drinks such as rosebud ice tea. 16-22 Great Russell St, WC1B 3NN. T: 0207347 1221. www.gofortea.com/bloomsbury
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES
London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk
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DINING Cicchetti All-day dining venue with Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Verdi Italian Kitchen
ENJOY THE THALI AT
REAL INDIAN FOOD
Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the famous music venue. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the Wagyu beef and hibachi prawn. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant, which is set in a quiet courtyard, has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakagura london.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with authentic Moroccan decor, serving mezze mains such as duck couscous and lamb tagine. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with an informal communal area as well as a dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Yasmeen Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat, wraps and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.
Yosma Turkish cuisine in the heart of London at this bright, informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish and meat dishes from the Josper grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street.
RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s iconic sights as you embark on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment. www.wheretraveler.com 77
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DINING The London Showboat
Thai Pot
Dining cruises including two-course lunch, afternoon tea and dinner with live jazz. £££££££. Booking needed. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
This popular spot offers a huge range of good-value, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and Massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
RS Hispaniola
SPANISH
Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/ Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in a Debenhams department store and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving Vietnamese cuisine. Try the spiced lamb chops or seafood pho. ££. Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Mango Tree This fine-dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes, such as grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. £££. Daily L & D. www.mango tree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 0207823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
El Pirata Choose from a large range of authentic, hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, including cured meats and fresh seafood. There are good set menus to choose from. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Iberica Traditional dishes and tapas are given a modern twist, plus classics including jamon Ibérico, artisan cheeses and bocadillos. The stylish restaurant is close to Victoria coach station. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.
Moro North Africa meets Spain in this revered Moorish restaurant, serving dishes such as wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
W H E R E
L O N D O N
VEGETARIAN The Gate The latest branch of the well-known vegan and vegetarian restaurant, with Indian and Middle Eastern influences, and dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. There is a great-value fixed-price menu, too. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Mildreds This informal Soho institution serves hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie and Vietnamese mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings, and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India, from authentic street food to dosas and thalis. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.
P R O M O T I O N
BEST OF LONDON DINING The Chelsea Harbour Hotel The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea is in partnership with Whittard of Chelsea. Go on a journey through the history of afternoon tea, from its advent in 1840 by the Duchess of Bedford through to the present day. The tea comes with sandwiches and desserts from throughout history. The menu includes finger sandwiches filled with classic and contemporary delights such as coronation chicken, a sandwich created in 1953 specifically for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. The luxurious five-star hotel boasts panoramic views over Chelsea Harbour Marina and the River Thames. The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea costs £28 per person, or £38 with a glass of Champagne.
El Pirata
Chelsea Harbour Dr, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000. www.millenniumhotels.com
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Life is a cabaret Royals and celebrities have been flocking to Café de Paris for decades – and now you can experience its new cabaret night, says Neil Simpson When Café de Paris opened in 1924, who could have guessed it would still be going strong 94 years later? In that time, the legendary West End club has hosted its fair share of wild nights and now, the venue is drawing on its astonishing history with a new cabaret show on Friday nights, The Service. We went along to check it out. The club is renowned for drawing famous revellers and performers in its time, from the Prince of Wales and Princess Margaret to Frank Sinatra, Grace Kelly and royalty of the more purple variety, Prince. The entertainment den stayed open despite the Blitz during World War II, when the dance floor suffered a direct hit from a falling bomb. The attack killed 80 people, including the renowned swing performer Ken ‘Snakehips’ Johnson.
Through exhilarating performances and high production values, this show cleverly draws on all of the venue’s history, pouring each episode into a well-paced spectacle. Groundbreaking artistes who appeared through the decades at Café de Paris are brought back to life, including the iconic Josephine Baker, whose black skin and magnificent moves caused a sensation here in 1926. There’s also a cheeky thrill in seeing notorious Café visits from the likes of Princess Margaret and Marlene Dietrich reimagined as slow, skilful burlesque strips. By the time the 1990s-style raver arrives with her Day-Glo outfit and flaming hula hoops, you’ll be an expert in Café de Paris’ history. With its chandeliers, ceiling drapes and curving staircases, the two-storey space still lives up to the glamour of its past and
resembles the Titanic’s ballroom. During the show, dancers dressed as hotel bellboys dangle, spin and swing around the space, pouring Champagne into glasses below as acrobatic waiters flit through the crowd. The club’s dance floor is filled with large dining tables during the show, providing the option to enjoy a two- or three-course dinner and a bottle of Prosecco as you watch. If you prefer to just go for the show, the mezzanine floor is filled with more intimate tables which offer an equally good, elevated view of the action. Whether you choose to go for the full dinner option or just drinks, The Service will definitely sate your appetite for high-quality entertainment. Café de Paris, 3 Coventry St, W1D 6BL. T: 020-7436 1111. www.cafedeparis.com
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 88-89)
TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music. www.french housesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 0207437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Waxy O’Connor’s
Booking Office Bar
Long-standing Irish bar, with four bars over six levels. It has regular live music, and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar, surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. There’s also a good menu of bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Waxy’s Little Sister A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to the huge Waxy O’Connor’s, which has traditional Irish beers and whiskies, and also great bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine on a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Back Room Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, its bar has vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hard rock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 0207514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in a relaxed bar which specialises in many types of cocktails using the Caribbean spirit with unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £30, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
Cartizze Bar Cocktail destination in Mayfair majoring in timeless luxury, known for its Bellinis, with elegant Art Deco surroundings and bar food including oysters. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Camino This is a dedicated cava venue. Enjoy tapas sharing platters. www.cava.co.uk. The Regent Quarter, 3 Varnishers Yard, N1 9FD (and branches). T: 020-7125 0930. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
FACING PAGE: THE SERVICE © CHIARA CECCAIONI/PHOTO + DESIGN; ASIA DE CUBA IMAGE COURTESY OF ASIA DE CUBA
The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.
The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.
The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant offers a variety of ales in its unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 020-7493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular, so booking is advisable. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
A trip to the tropics If you’d like to linger over cocktails with small bites, try Asia de Cuba’s new cocktail and ceviche menu. Fusion food gets a bad rap, but with branches in New York and the Middle East, this restaurant in St Martins Lane hotel has proven itself. Cuban chef Luis Pous blends Asian and Latin flavours, so expect lime, orange and pineapple alongside coriander and red onion. The new menu has seven cocktail and ceviche pairings. The decor is just as tropical, with vintage posters advertising Hong Kong, Havana, India and the Caribbean lining the walls.
45 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4HX. T: 020-7300 5588. www.asiadecuba.com. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Leicester Square
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NIGHTLIFE C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery and offers tastings, classes and tours. It’s tucked away down an alleyway in an atmospheric, old part of the City. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style tapas bar that serves rare sherries, aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, natural wines and Andalucian-inspired tapas dishes. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Dukes Bar Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same name, renowned for its superior Martinis. Oozing old-world charm, with leather armchairs in a cosy interior, the Martinis are made at your table and served from a century-old wooden trolley. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.
Experimental Cocktail Club
L’escale Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Try a sharing board of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Looking Glass Cocktail Club
Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this place, which is home to exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes in a classy neighbourhood. www.mewsof mayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Freedom
Old Bengal Bar
This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. The menu also has an extensive tequila and sambuca shots list. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Gong
Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of dimly-lit rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar. Sip a lychee Martini and choose food from the dim sum menu. www.opiumchinatown.com. Booking is recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask, named after the New York Waldorf Astoria’s owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Opium Cocktail Bar
Oriole This is featured on the World’s 50 Best Bars list last year, this spacious cocktail bar is below Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues music most nights, all in beautiful, explorer-decor surroundings. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Primo Bar
London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit stone-arched basement. Try to go early to grab a table as it can get very busy. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. Its location makes a great meeting spot. The venue focuses on acoustic sounds, bringing artists and bands around the world, and it puts up-and-coming talent in the spotlight. The menu includes beef burgers, pastas and salads. www.primo bar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Jack Solomon’s Club
Reverend JW Simpson
This new basement speakeasy bar in Soho is accessed by a hidden entrance, and boasts old-school glamour. Take your pick from special cocktails and a large dance floor. Email for the guest list. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU. www.jacksolomons.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. You can also sign up for a cocktail masterclass. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
Gordon’s Wine Bar
This elegant bar is named after satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of the iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails inspired by famous characters Scarfe has drawn, with Indianstyle bar snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
Enter a giant glass into a dimly-lit St Pancras Champagne Bar Five of London’s room decorated with Louis Europe’s longest Champagne bar Underground stations XVI-inspired furniture. This takes pride of place in the station are named after pubs, speakeasy has regular DJs, live where the Paris Eurostar arrives. including Angel and music and performances. 49 There is a button you can press for Swiss Cottage Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 020-7613 3936. refills. www.searcyschampagnebars. www.lookingglasslondon.co.uk. Off map. co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Station: Hoxton. Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870
In an old Chinatown townhouse, this stylish bar is tucked away, but worth the search for its inventive cocktails. Email booking is highly recommended. www.experimentalcocktailclublondon.com. 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Located on level 52 of Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and is the ideal place for sunset cocktails. The food menu includes caviar and sashimi platters. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, a DJ plays by the pool area from 8.30pm. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Scarfes Bar
9900. C8. Station: St Pancras King’s Cross.
Six Storeys As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper. Cocktails are its speciality – try the quince and blue cheese-infused gin. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Social 24 The bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Trader Vic’s This popular tiki-style basement bar is more than 50 years old. Relax and enjoy a mai tai cocktail, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. Live music is staged on Friday and Saturday nights. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Vault The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcases, is a speakeasy with cosy arches. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this lounge, with eccentric decor incorporating leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezettertownhouse. com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hippodrome Casino Massive West End venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live music. www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
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The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, plus informal dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. 16 Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues and R ’n’ B music, played by British-based independent artists on stage. There is also an intimate basement club and restaurant. Liane Carroll, Polly Gibbons and Jamie Cullum have performed here. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves Americanstyle food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, and there are also late-night stand-up slots. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
London Cabaret Club British-themed cabaret venue. Best of British Pop fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.
Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Sarah Vaughan, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy jazz music together. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Stringfellows Open since 1980, this is known for being one of the most famous gentleman’s clubs in the world. Up to 70 beautiful international Angels dance nightly on four stages. You can also dine in the five-star steak restaurant. The club was created by the late Peter Stringfellow. While you are there, make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.string fellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 83
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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE Bamford Hayburn Spa
Dive right in
Chuan Spa
Chuan Spa
A bustling beacon of urbanisation, London’s not exactly the best for beaches. But when it comes to exciting pools, from rooftops to basements, there’s plenty to dive into. The Langham’s Chuan Spa (p. 85) was refurbished last year and the pool is one of its most dramatic features – in fact, it used to be a large bank vault. The 16m-long pool is in the basement and has a beautiful oriental mural, while there are also steam and sauna rooms. The hotel is located at the top of Regent Street and boasts a spa too, specialising in treatments based on traditional Chinese methods and medicines. If you’re looking for a bit of privacy, the Chuan Spirit VIP suite has its own Japanese square bath, which is perfect for couples to bathe in together. Who knows who you might bump into at the Bamford Hayburn Spa in The Berkeley hotel? The spa has always been in fashion: the late Alexander McQueen was a regular, while Kate Moss loves the Cotswolds branch. What the pool lacks in size (it’s only 10m long), it makes up for with its postcard-worthy views over the Royal Parks. Tuck into its smoothies and salads, and when the sun is out, the rooftop opens – so you can sunbathe on its loungers. Otherwise, sign up to Silou London’s yoga classes, which take place in the spa’s enclosed garden by the pool. (Wilton Pl, SW1X 7RL). The closest you’ll get to a beach in London are its ponds and lidos, each beloved by locals. Hampstead Heath Ponds is a magical setting: you’ll stumble upon the lakes hidden among trees. There are men’s, women’s and mixed ponds (Hampstead Heath, NW5 1QR). The Landmark London is more than 100 years old and as one of London’s most luxurious hotels, it’s no surprise to hear its spa is a special place. In fact, it is home to something of a rarity for the capital: its own chlorine-free pool. If you’ve had a full day of sightseeing, dip into the Jacuzzi, which prevents stiffness, simulates a massage and releases endorphins (222 Marylebone Rd, NW1 6JQ). At The Bulgari meanwhile, it feels like you could be in Italy. There are glittering Byzantine mosaics of Venice and Vicenza stone, which are common in Italian architecture. For a spa that is not far from Harrods, it’s no surprise to find that this is all about glamour: there are large columns, four-poster cabanas and a vitality pool – decked out in gold-leafed tiles, of course. And, as this won the Good Spa Guide award for Best Spa in London, you know you are in safe hands (171 Knightsbridge, SW7 1DW).
BAMFORD HAYBURN SPA COURTESY OF THE BERKELEY HOTEL; CHUAN SPA COURTESY OF THE LANGHAM
When the temperature soars, visit the city’s pools. Kohinoor Sahota picks London’s brightest swimming baths
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 88-89
SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.
The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a gold agedefying facial and a carat diamond face and body ritual. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
The Spa at Dolphin Square
High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.
Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Chuan Spa
Spa Illuminata
Body Relaxation
Step inside this luxury spa that has recently been refurbished. It uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit (p. 84). www.chuanspa.com. 2 Cavendish Place, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 0207499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.
Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast Johansens, the menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street. A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
07879 697478
Late appointments available
SALONS
Geo F Trumper
One Aldwych
Total relaxation, revitalising massage.
Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporates spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous decor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo. A luxury spa inspired by traditional Chinese massage methods. The spa has recently undergone a major refurbishment. Facilities include a 17m-long pool and a gym offering personal trainer sessions. www.mandarinoriental. com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
by qualified female masseuse.
Ushvani
Mandara Spa
Mandarin Oriental
AVENA MASSAGE
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Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute speed styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards
Concierges in the city use Where London for information. Here, Ronnie McDowell and his sons share their top tips
Conor McDowell
Ronnie McDowell
Ruairi McDowell
Head concierge at The Principal London
Head concierge at Royal National Hotel
Head concierge at ME London Hotel
Tell us popular requests. Restaurant suggestions. We have great relationships with restaurants, such as Noble Rot – it has an amazing wine bar.
Tell us popular requests. Places to eat in Covent Garden and Camden Town.
Tell us popular requests. Everyone wants to go to our rooftop bar, Radio. As soon as the sun comes out, the phone never stops ringing. After our refurbishment, it is even more chic.
Why is your hotel special? Its architectural design was inspired by Château de Madrid in Paris and its doors first opened 120 years ago. After a two-year restoration, it’s certainly put the ‘Bloom’ back into Bloomsbury.
Why is your hotel special? It has a traditional London pub and a bowling alley. How can visitors see London in a day? A trip on an open-top bus is a must. Also be sure to visit the South Bank for outdoor bars, restaurants and entertainers.
Any family-friendly ideas? Seven-acre Coram Field’s park has a sandpit, swings, sheep and a paddling pool.
Any family-friendly ideas? Visit Windsor for its castle and shops, then take your kids to nearby Legoland.
Any romantic ideas? Pack a picnic and head to the stately home of Kenwood, which has a lake and views of Hampstead Heath.
Any romantic tips? Watch films from a bed in the front row at the Electric Cinema in Shoreditch.
Share a quintessential English experience. Afternoon tea in Palm Court in The Principal. It has a high glass ceiling and garden.
Any hidden gems? Pop into the Coach & Horses on Wellington Street for a pint, then listen to piano players at the Players’ Theatre in Charing Cross.
From left to right: Circus Abyssinia at Underbelly Festival; Windsor Castle; Legoland
Why is your hotel special? The artwork in the lobby changes on a monthly basis. Any family-friendly ideas? The Science Museum has interactive games and the South Bank’s Underbelly Festival is in full swing. Any romantic tips? Sip Champagne in a private capsule on the Coca-Cola London Eye, enjoy dinner in the sexy Michelin-starred restaurant L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and go to its rooftop bar, Le Salon. Any hidden gems? The Icon Balcony Bar at the Empire Casino in Leicester Square– it’s great.
An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.
Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345 222 1234.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).
CIRCUS ABYSSINIA AT UNDERBELLY FESTIVAL COURTESY OF UNDERBELLY FESTIVAL; WINDSOR CASTLE © ISTOCK; LEGOLAND COURTESY OF WINDSOR LEGOLAND RESORT; CONOR MCDOWELL © MB PHOTOGRAPHY; RONNIE MCDOWELL COURTESY OF ROYAL NATIONAL HOTEL; RUAIRI MCDOWELL COURTESY OF ME LONDON
AT YOUR SERVICE
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ESSENTIALS
Willesden Green
Stonebridge Park Harlesden
Brondesbury Park
Willesden Junction
Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park
Paddington
Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road
North Acton
Shepherd’s Bush
White City
Shepherd’s Bush Market
Stamford Brook
Ravenscourt Park
West Kensington
High Street Kensington
Green Park
Gloucester Road
Earl’s Court
Goodge Street
Victoria
Hoxton
Charing Cross
Liverpool Street
Bank
Aldgate East
Stepney Green
Whitechapel
Aldgate
Cannon Street Monument
Tower Gateway Rotherhithe
Bermondsey
Canada Water
West Brompton
Parsons Green
Surrey Quays
River Thames
Step-free access from street to platform
Bakerloo
Vauxhall
East Putney
Canning Town
District
Hammersmith & City
Custom House for ExCeL
Blackwall East India
Emirates Royal Docks
Heron Quays
North Greenwich
Elephant & Castle
Jubilee
Metropolitan
Prince Regent Royal Albert
West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula
Pontoon Dock
New Cross Gate
Northern
Victoria
Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton
King George V 17/E/3249/P
Greenwich New Cross
Brockley
Piccadilly
Beckton Park
London City Airport
Mudchute
Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham
Circle
Royal Victoria
Island Gardens
Borough
Southfields
Central
Star Lane
Langdon Park
Canary Wharf
Lambeth North
Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train
East Ham Upton Park
Crossharbour
Southwark
Imperial Wharf
Upney Barking
West Ham
Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road
South Quay Waterloo Pimlico
Fulham Broadway
Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway
Stratford
West India Quay
Wapping
River Thames
London Bridge
Woodgrange Park
Forest Gate Maryland
Abbey Road
Westferry Poplar
Limehouse
Tower Hill
Fenchurch Street
Embankment
Pudding Mill Lane
All Saints Shadwell
Blackfriars Temple
Westminster
Bow Church
St. Paul’s
Hornchurch
Plaistow
Moorgate Chancery Lane
Ilford Manor Park
Becontree
Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End
Shoreditch High Street
Barbican
Upminster Bridge
Seven Kings
Wanstead Park
Stratford High Street
Cambridge Heath
Old Street
Covent Garden
St. James’s Park
Homerton London Fields
Haggerston
Farringdon
Leicester Mansion Square House
Piccadilly Circus
Sloane Square
South Kensington
Holborn
Tottenham Court Road
Knightsbridge
Barons Court
Hammersmith
Regent’s Park
Marble Arch
Dalston Junction
Angel Euston Square Russell Square
Queensway
Caledonian Road & Barnsbury
King’s Cross St. Pancras
Bayswater Oxford Circus
Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick
Highbury & Islington
Euston
Warren Street
Edgware Road
Hyde Park Corner
Kensington (Olympia)
Goldhawk Road
Mornington Crescent
Great Baker Portland Street Street
Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate
Holland Park
Wood Lane
Camden Road
Chalk Farm Camden Town
Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood
Edgware Road Marylebone
Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road
Kentish Town West Belsize Park
West Hampstead
Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead
East Acton
Finchley Road & Frognal
Kilburn
Deptford Bridge Elverson Road
Waterloo & City
DLR
Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays
Emirates Air Line cable car
Overground
TfL Rail
*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.
Transport for London
Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P
Version D 7.2017
Accessible London
Emirates Air Line cable car
Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.
London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 020-8150 3170. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-7365 3369 0403. www.kendallcars. com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.
Congestion Charge UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL
Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel
There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.
Correct at time of going to print
On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire the first 30 minutes. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes is a trained certified packer. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 87
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16/07/2018 10:53
WHERE NOW | GLEN MATLOCK
My Perfect Day
GLEN MATLOCK MUSICIAN Glen Matlock was born in Paddington. He became the bass guitarist in the punk rock band the Sex Pistols. This month, his new album, Good to Go, is released. He lives in Little Venice
What’s your favourite building in London?
How does London inspire you?
What are your favourite music venues?
I’m a fan of classic buildings. I’ve just walked past Liberty – I always like having a rummage in there. I like the way the floor squeaks. I like the bridges of London. There’s a bridge where I live in Little Venice – it’s not big or majestic, it’s just a nice Victorian wrought-iron bridge. I like going over it, as normally I’m going somewhere good.
I’m 61 and three quarters – don’t tell anyone – and I travel a lot, but I always come back to London and it always changes. It changes all the time! It is hard to be fed up with London.
I like the 100 Club very much. It’s been going since 1947 and still owned by the same family. Every 10 years they take the pictures off the wall, paint it the same shade of orange and put the pictures back. I’ve always wanted to do the London Palladium – that’s good for gigs. The Royal Albert Hall is cool; I’ve played there.
I like the National Portrait Gallery. It has my all-time favourite picture in there of Wyndham Lewis [the English painter, who co-founded the Vorticist art movement in the early 1900s]. It’s of him as a tyro – tyro means learner. It’s a self-portrait he made for a magazine called Blast.
What shops do you like? I’m not big on department stores, though John Lewis is handy. Portobello Road market is cool.
I’m a Tube bloke. As long as it’s on the Bakerloo line, I’m happy. Now I’m over 60, I have a free Oyster card and it’s well handy.
I’m not drinking these days. I am an aficionado of coffee bars. You can’t beat sitting outside Bar Italia in Soho and watching the world go by.
I recorded the album in upstate New York with some American friends. I think it’s jolly good. It’s a bit of a departure for me: it’s got a rockabilly, skiffle vibe. I think people will either love it or they’ll hate it.
What are your favourite restaurants?
What places inspire you?
The Wolseley is good! The Red Pepper in Maida Vale does very good modern Italian, too.
I think London itself is inspirational – it’s always changing; you can never really know London. I travel a lot, but always come back to the capital and it always changes.
Where do you like to have a drink?
What is your favourite entertainment? What are your favourite green spaces? Holland Park is beautiful – I think we are blessed with that. Regent’s Park, too! They are my two top parks in central London.
Is there a place in the capital that holds a special memory? I like the 24-hour beigel shop at the top of Brick Lane. If I’m doing something at The O2, I make a point of coming back that way, driving up Brick Lane and, at about 2am, having a cup of tea and a smoked salmon beigel. You see all sorts there.
Tell us about your new album.
I don’t go and watch as many bands as I ought to. When you’re touring a lot, you don’t want to go and do the same thing. I like catching a movie, or having a nice meal with friends.
Do you have a favourite London musician? Ray Davies – he is England’s greatest living songwriter.
Do you have a favourite hotel in London? There’s no need for that, as I live here! Good to Go is out Aug 24. Glen Matlock and Earl Slick tour, 30 Jul-3 Aug. Boisdale, Canary Wharf, Cabot Place, E14 4QT. www.glenmatlock.com
Clockwise from top left: Bar Italia; Glen Matlock; smoked salmon beigel; Liberty London; Glen Maltock’s Good to Go; Portobello Road Market
BAR ITALIA, PORTOBELLO ROAD MARKET AND BEIGEL © ISTOCK; GLEN MATLOCK AND ALBUM COVER COURTESY OF HUSH PR; LIBERTY © MELVYN VINCENT PHOTOGRAPHY
What are your favourite galleries?
How do you like travelling?
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Evening Standard
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