Where Magazine London Dec 2018 by Morris Media Network

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

DECEMBER 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

GIFT OF GIVING Toys, truffles, tequila and more

BES T

Fro F 201 Meg m Harry 8 han an to 10 ’s wedd d in 0 y e of th ars g e Air F Royal orce

LET’S DANCE Inside Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake

Merry Christmas Celebrate Christmas the London way with Charles Dickens, pantomimes and mince pies

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

December

ON THE COVER

The Nutcracker © Royal Opera House/Tristram Kenton

The Guide

SWAN LAKE © JOHAN PERSSON; SOMERSET HOUSE © JAMES BRYANT; BODY WORLDS © JEFF MOORE; MICHELANGELO’S PIETA FIGURINE COURTESY OF NATIONAL GALLERY COMPANY; KAIA © THE NED

24 SIGHTSEEING Looking back at Harry and Meghan’s wedding with an exhibition at Windsor Castle, and the reopening of the Temperate House at Kew Gardens. 40 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The best of 2018, including the brilliant Postal Museum and the Royal Academy of Arts’ extension. 46 ENTERTAINMENT The shows we loved most this year, including Bat Out of Hell, plus a look ahead to Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake. 56 SHOPPING Showcasing the extensions at Bicester Village and Westfield London, and a look at the new Global Blue VIP Lounge.

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW Watch the Christmas tree lighting ceremony in Trafalgar Square, head to Olympia for the London International Horse Show, find some bargains at the Boxing Day sales, then celebrate on New Year’s Eve.

10 TWELVE WAYS TO HAVE A LONDON CHRISTMAS Get the most from the city for a very merry month, from pantos to carols and classic literary figures, plus ice skating in stunning venues across the capital.

14 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Five themes – admire, indulge, play, relax and sparkle – will inspire you to buy the perfect Christmas presents this festive season.

82 MY PERFECT DAY Matthew Ball, principal dancer at the Royal Ballet, shares his favourite places in the capital.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

62 DINING The Ned impresses with its dining options, plus a restaurant serving foraged food opens near London Bridge. 72 NIGHTLIFE Our pick of the capital’s best bars: Helix & Iris, Cahoots and Old Compton Brasserie. 76 WELLBEING From hair salons to luxury spas, here are our favourite places in which to relax and unwind. 78 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced hotel concierges share their helpful tips on how to make the most of your trip. 80 MAP A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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TOT_XMAS_WhereLondon_251x118mm_021018b.qxp_Layout 1 02/10/2018 13:31 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

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Join our panoramic tour of London’s most beautifully illuminated landmarks this Christmas season. On board we will give you a blanket to borrow and a Santa hat to keep, plus a FREE glass of mulled wine at Planet Hollywood.

Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV WHERE LONDON 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, London, SW1Y 4SQ Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@ morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901. The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation.

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Vol. No. 44 Issue No.12 ISSN 0951 323X

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW © RBG KEW; HEADSHOT © DAVID POLLARD

LONDON’S MAGICAL CHRISTMAS LIGHTS TOUR

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

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Welcome The most wonderful time of the year

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

One of the best things about my job is that I get two Christmases. This might be hard to believe, but I have been compiling our gift guide – with more than 70 presents – since July. During a heatwave, I was visiting some of the capital’s leading department stores to find out what will be the season’s best-selling presents (p. 14). This is my fifth Christmas issue and the one I am most proud of: for the first time, we’ve written a round-up of the year. Our team recalled the most memorable events and openings of 2018, from the Royal Air Force centenary flypast to the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. Read about how you can visit Windsor Castle (where the couple married) and get to see Meghan’s actual wedding dress (p. 24). Did you know that so many traditions which take place during Christmas – from

pulling crackers to decorating trees – began in Britain? We reveal the ways you can enjoy Christmas in the capital (p. 10). If you are looking for an alternative take on a Christmas show, I highly recommend watching a Matthew Bourne ballet. This has turned into my own Christmas tradition: I have seen Cinderella, Sleeping Beauty and Edward Scissorhands at Sadler’s Wells. This year, Swan Lake returns, so we grilled its star Matthew Ball – the Royal Ballet’s principal dancer – on his favourite London spots (p. 82). Have yourself a merry London Christmas!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

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Take your pick from Paul McCartney in concert, equine excellence at Olympia and the countdown to New Year’s Eve

NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATIONS MONDAY 31 DECEMBER

See in the New Year by watching a spectacular fireworks display from midnight along Victoria Embankment, opposite the South Bank. Buy tickets in advance and gather at 8pm for the best views – although there will be many thousands keen enough to pick their spot from the late afternoon, so be prepared for a long wait. It’s worth it, though, as this really is one of the world’s most breathtaking New Year’s Eve displays. www.london.gov.uk 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I D E C E M B E R 2018

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

PAUL MCCARTNEY AT THE O2 SUNDAY 16 DECEMBER

The music and voice of Paul McCartney, who is now the grand old age of 76, are as fresh as ever. To prove it, he’s bringing his Freshen Up tour to The O2. Expect tunes from his latest album, Egypt Station, together with some old classics, in his first UK tour since 2015. It will be worth the wait. www.theo2.co.uk

CHRISTMAS TREE LIGHTING CEREMONY THURSDAY 6 DECEMBER

Norway has donated a spruce to London every year since 1947 as a thank you for the UK’s support during World War II – it’s one of the most treasured festive traditions in the capital. At the switch-on ceremony in Trafalgar Square, you can listen to carols and join in the countdown just before the tree is lit up by 770 bulbs. www.london.gov.uk

LONDON INTERNATIONAL HORSE SHOW MONDAY 17–SUNDAY 23 DECEMBER

These glorious steeds return to Olympia for the London International Horse Show. Be dazzled by the Dressage Grand Prix featuring international showjumping champions, watch displays of horsemanship from La Garde Républicaine Cavalry Regiment and be charmed by the ever-popular Shetland Pony Grand National. www.olympiahorseshow.com

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DECEMBER

CHANUKAH IN THE SQUARE SUNDAY 2–MONDAY 10 DECEMBER

A festival that commemorates a 2,500-year-old miracle is marked in Trafalgar Square. Join London’s Jewish community to celebrate Chanukah, the ‘festival of lights’. Every evening at sundown, one branch of a giant menorah – a candelabrum with nine branches – is lit. Expect live music, entertainment and doughnuts. www.london.gov.uk

BOXING DAY SALES FROM WEDNESDAY 26 DECEMBER

Roll up your sleeves, wear your most comfortable shoes and elbow your way through the crowds to bag some brilliant bargains. Starting on 26 December, serious shoppers queue early at city-centre shops to ensure they’re first through the doors. Harrods launches its famous sale with a celebrity guest and, if you’re lucky, you may get to sample free snacks. Fortnum & Mason, meanwhile, slashes prices on its festive range, some of which will still be in date and in vogue next year. Want to shelter from the rain? Then head to shopping mall Westfield London in Shepherd’s Bush in the west, or Stratford in the east, for discounts on high-street and designer names.

ATP CHAMPIONS TOUR TENNIS THURSDAY 6–SUNDAY 9 DECEMBER

John McEnroe and Goran Ivanišević are two of the tennis legends competing at the Royal Albert Hall for the season-ending ATP Champions Tour. This year sees the addition of ‘balldogs’ – speedy, attentive pedigrees who sit at the net and fetch the ball when needed, as trained by Tim Henman. www.championstennis.co.uk

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Attend Greenwich’s month-long Winter Time festival at the Old Royal Naval College Celebrate Chanukah, the Jewish festival of lights, in Trafalgar Square Watch The Holiday, Elf or Love Actually on a floating pontoon in St Katharine Docks Browse food stalls and see comical shows at Christmas in Leicester Square Visit Kew Gardens at night to stroll its stunning illuminated trail in the grounds If it’s snowing, have a snowball fight and build a snowman on Hampstead Heath Ice skate in Somerset House’s courtyard, then shop for Fortnum & Mason goodies Feel all Christmassy at Wintertime Festival outside the Southbank Centre Browse an afternoon Christmas market outside Pear Tree Café in Battersea Park Wrap up warm to listen to carols in Trafalgar Square and cheer on the singers Watch superstar Mariah Carey strut her festive stuff on stage at The O2 Ice skate in the grounds of Hampton Court Palace, King Henry VIII’s former abode Children will love Horrible Histories at the restored Alexandra Palace Theatre Watch legendary British band Madness, led by singer Suggs, perform at The O2 Warm up with mulled wine at Christmas by the River, a festival close to City Hall Listen to former Beatle Paul McCartney impress the crowds at The O2 Dance to Lily Allen’s latest pop tunes at the Roundhouse in Camden Buy last-minute presents at Winterville, a Christmas market on Clapham Common Attend the European premiere of Circus 1903 at the Royal Festival Hall Harry Potter fans – don’t miss Hogwarts in the Snow at Warner Bros. Studio Tour Head to a cinema to watch the classic British film Mary Poppins reinvented See Eltham Palace and Gardens lit up in festive colours during Enchanted Eltham Stroll under the Christmas lights along Regent Street and Oxford Street Go to a candlelit carol service at St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square Watch swimmers compete for the Peter Pan Cup at the Serpentine lake in Hyde Park Families with young kids will enjoy Disney on Ice presents Dream Big at The O2 Go ice skating outdoors in front of the magical Natural History Museum Have a post-Christmas feast at Rules in Covent Garden, which opened in 1798 Fans of electronic and house music should not miss Junction 2 at Tobacco Dock Join the last night of After Dark, an illuminated walk around Chiswick House If you don’t have tickets for London’s fireworks display, watch from Primrose Hill

PREVIOUS PAGES: PAUL MCCARTNEY © MPL COMMUNICATIONS; FIREWORKS AND CHRISTMAS TREE © ISTOCK; HORSE SHOW © KIT HOUGHTON. THIS PAGE: CHANUKAH © GREATER LONDON AUTHORITY; BOXING DAY SALES © ISTOCK; TENNIS © RED PHOTOGRAPHIC LTD

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THIS WINTER, THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE...

FIVE EXTRA SHOWS ADDED FOR CHRISTMAS WickedTheMusical.co.uk • #WickedUK APOLLO VICTORIA THEATRE • SW1V 1LG •

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VICTORIA

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12 ways to have a LONDON

CHRISTMAS Kathryn Conway delves into the capital’s box of seasonal delights

LIGHT THE WAY

A seasonal treat for young and old, seeing the city’s Christmas lights is enough to put even the most hardened Scrooge in the festive spirit. The illuminations on Bond Street, Carnaby Street, Oxford Street and Regent Street remain perennial favourites, but The Shard’s colourful light display (from 3 Dec), which this year is inspired by photos of the building taken by the public, has been making a name for itself in recent years. So too has Christmas at Kew: as darkness falls, the botanic gardens are transformed into a twinkling explosion of colour via a light trail festooned with art installations, laser beams and a 100-metre ‘Cathedral of Light’ tunnel. Similar seasonal sparkle can be witnessed at the Christmas at ZSL London Zoo light trail, with glowing animal sculptures and glistening fountains.

HO-HO-HO

For children who have spent the past year being very good, the Royal Albert Hall has taken the concept of Santa’s grotto to a whole new level. The Victorian concert hall has been transformed into the ‘top-secret London headquarters of Father Christmas’, where kids journey through enchanting spaces and interact with characters from the North Pole along the way. The hour-long experience includes an opportunity to sit in Father Christmas’s sleigh. At Hamleys, meanwhile, its party room sees children spend time with Santa and Hamleys’ elves, while also enjoying fun activities such as posting a list of their most-wanted gifts to the North Pole.

JOY TO THE WORLD

Whether it’s the majesty of hearing carols sung in St Paul’s Cathedral or Westminster Abbey (often accompanied by a reading from a celebrity), or enjoying a rousing singalong of seasonal favourites at the Royal Albert Hall (23-24 Dec), there is a musical treat for every taste. Traditionalists will love the choral excellence of the Temple Winter Festival at Temple Church (14 Dec), while carols sung by St Martin-in-the-Fields’ church choir, which accompany the lighting of the Norwegian spruce in Trafalgar Square (6 Dec), are very special.

‘HE’S BEHIND YOU!’

Pantomimes are an intrinsic part of London’s Christmas shows. Celebrities come out in force to dress as panto dames (usually played by men) in innuendo-filled adaptations of popular fairy tales. Comedian Dawn French plays the Wicked Queen in Snow White at the London Palladium (from 8 Dec) and Clive Rowe, the king (or should that be queen?) of the dames, is in Aladdin at the Hackney Empire. This year marks the venue’s 20th year of panto performances. The ice rink at Somerset House

SUGAR PLUM FAIRIES

It just wouldn’t be Christmas without seeing The Nutcracker. Happily, this much-loved ballet, which sees Clara creep downstairs on Christmas Eve only to be whisked away on an adventure with her doll, has three homes: the Royal Ballet performs the classic version at the Royal Opera House (from 3 Dec); the English National Ballet gives it an Edwardian London twist at the London Coliseum (13-30 Dec); and the Birmingham Royal Ballet sprinkles Victorian magic at the Royal Albert Hall (28-31 Dec).

CHRISTMAS PAST

For those who want to understand what a Victorian Christmas might have looked like, the Charles Dickens Museum provides a glimpse through the prism of its traditional decorations and authentic festive displays. Enjoy yuletides of old at the Tower of London, which hosts festivities from the mid-19th century (27-31 Dec), while at Kensington Palace you can meet actors dressed as Queen Victoria and Prince Albert (selected dates).

MOVIE MAGIC

Kensington Palace is the backdrop to The Luna Winter Cinema, where classics such as Elf are shown on a big screen in the Pavilion on The Orangery’s lawn (17-22 Dec). Film fans should visit the Floating Film Festival at St Katharine Docks (3-9 Dec). Step onto the pontoon, grab a drink and snuggle under blankets to enjoy Home Alone or Love Actually. Neighbourhood Cinema Father Christmas at the Royal Albert Hall has brought The Frozen Island to Covent Garden; screens are positioned around a lake of ice as flurries of (fake) snowflakes fall.

SOMERSET HOUSE © JAMES BRYANT; FATHER CHRISTMAS COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL; THE NUTCRACKER © TRISTRAM KENTON

ondon gave the world Christmas cards, crackers and a host of yuletide traditions that took root during the reign of Queen Victoria. The city’s unique dose of festive cheer makes it one of the most magical destinations in which to spend the holidays. Christmas done the London way is definitely one to remember.

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS

THE FUN OF THE FAIR

Already known for its fairground rides, observation wheel, markets and shows, Hyde Park Winter Wonderland packs a festive punch. Joining the spectacle this year are ice sculpting workshops, a comedy club and an immersive walk-through adventure to mark the 40th anniversary of The Snowman. For an alternative yuletide vibe, head south of the river to Clapham Common, where Winterville hosts DJs and live music, a roller disco, crazy golf and Mexican wrestling.

The Snowman

ICE, ICE BABY

DINE IN A DOME

Last year saw a proliferation of igloo-shaped, transparent domes popping up all over the city in the run-up to Christmas and, this Noël, there is no sign of their popularity waning. Better suited to larger groups – who can sip hot toddies and feast on fondue – these custom-built glass capsules are dotted on the banks of the River Thames (courtesy of Coppa Club at Tower Bridge and chef Jimmy Garcia on the South Bank). Igloos are also situated on the rooftop of Aviary (the terrace space at Montcalm Royal London House hotel) and at Skylight at Tobacco Dock.

FESTIVE FEASTING

Christmas at Kew

From mulled wine and mince pies (those made by Blondies Kitchen in Kingly Street get our vote), to artisan cheese and novelty confectionery, December isn’t a month to worry about your waistline. When the capital’s afternoon tea menus receive a seasonal overhaul, calorie counting is forgotten. At The Ritz, guests can admire the lavishly decorated Palm Court as they are serenaded by a choir while indulging in spiced tea and tasty treats. The London Shell Co, meanwhile, offers intimate Christmas dinner cruises where a five-course menu is served aboard a canal boat.

12 Christmas carols are a firm festive favourite, at atChoristers the city’s churches St Paul’s Cathedral and cathedrals

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

If you’ve exhausted the department stores, head to a Christmas market for a quirky gift – the Southbank’s Winter Market and Bankside’s Christmas by the River are popular – or discover Britain’s best makers at the Crafty Fox Market at The Department Store in Brixton (15-16 Dec). Take advantage of discounts at the Christmas Shopping Day in Chelsea (1 Dec). It is the season for (over)indulgence, after all.

THE SNOWMAN © SNOWMAN ENTERPRISES LIMITED 2018 COURTESY OF HYDE PARK WINTER WONDERLAND; CHRISTMAS AT KEW © RBG KEW; ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © GRAHAM LACDAO

You can enjoy ice skating at many London landmarks: Somerset House, the Natural History Museum and the Tower of London are just some of the buildings to marvel at. Topping that, quite literally, department store John Lewis has a rink on its Oxford Street rooftop for the first time this year; views of the capital’s skyline, hot Sipsmith gin cocktails and pie and mash await.

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Give the Gift of

Fortnumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Filled to bursting with delicious things, nothing says merry Christmas like a hamper from Fortnum & Mason. And when the last of the contents have been devoured, they begin their many and varied after-lives, from homes for muddy wellies to puppy dog baskets. So this year, give the gift that keeps on giving.

PACK ED F U L L O F CH R I S T M A S

F O RTN U M A N D M A SO N .CO M

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

Vestur Uglu London print by Kristjana S Williams We Built This City, £315, 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF

Frida Kahlo travel mug Tate Modern Shop, £15, Bankside, SE1 9TG

Grayson Perry scarf Tate Modern Shop, £30, Bankside, SE1 9TG

Print of Virginia Woolf by George Charles Beresford National Portrait Gallery Shop, from £6, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

G I F T G U I D E

ADMIRE Take home artworks on scarves, socks, cups and cushions created by famous and emerging artists

Rich Enough to be Batman by Heath Kane We Built This City, £150, 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF

Leonardo da Vinci Vitruvian Man figurine National Portrait Gallery Shop, £65, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

Lichtenstein’s Whaam! cushion cover Tate Modern Shop, £20, Bankside, SE1 9TG

Michelangelo’s Pieta figurine National Portrait Gallery Shop, £110, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

Picasso and Dali socks We Built This City, £9 a pair, 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF

Van Gogh’s Sunflower socks National Gallery Shop, £5, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN

Print of Twiggy by Allan Ballard National Portrait Gallery Shop, from £6, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

Fulton’s Summer Sales umbrella London Transport Museum, £19, Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB

John ‘Working Class Hero’ by Rugman We Built This City, £150 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF STOCKISTS

Big Ben print by Derain Tate Modern Shop, £20, Bankside, SE1 9TGL

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Casamigos Reposado, Blanco and Anejo Tequila Harvey Nichols, from £65, 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RJ

Lindt personalised teddy Selfridges, £16.99, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

Brownie mince pies Paul A Young, £11, 143 Wardour St, W1F 8WA

Baubles with chocolates Venchi, £6.50 each, 3 Exhibition Rd, SW7 2HE

G I F T G U I D E

INDULGE Gin, whisky or tequila? Get into the Christmas spirit with these drinks and treats

Old Pulteney 35-year-old Highlands single malt Scotch whisky Berry Bros and Rudd, £550, 63 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5HZ

Panettone al Prosecco Carluccio’s, £19.95, 8 Market Place, W1W 8AG

Salted caramel chocolate Abbey Road Studios Shop, £4, 5 Abbey Rd, NW8 9AA

Marmalade Gin and Flowerbomb Gin One Time Gin, from £22.99, www.onetimegin.co.uk

Christmas chocolate bars Prestat, £9.50 each, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

The Glenrothes 25 year old The Whisky Exchange, £320, 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH

DIY Hansel and Gretel gingerbread house kit Biscuiteers, £35, 18 Stannary St, SE11 4AA

London Vegan Chocolate Truffles Collection gift box The London Chocolate Co, £11.75, Pretty English, Greenleigh Court, 3d Wilson St, N21 1BP

London biscuit tin by Biscuiteers Southbank Centre Shop, £35, 337-338 Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XU

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF STOCKISTS

Winter Forest Christmas cake Paul, £22.95, 29 Bedford St, WC2E 9ED

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T HE S P I I T OF

C H R I S TM A S BY REGENT STREET

In store surprises and offers throughout the season. Discover more about Christmas on Regent Street. Find out more: regentstreetonline.com @RegentStreetW1 #TheSpiritofChristmas

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

Versace Palazzo watch Selfridges, £990, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

Tower of London cufflinks Tower of London Shop, £40, St Katharine’s & Wapping, EC3N 4AB

Autumn beaded necklace National Gallery Shop, £35, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

Royalty Unicorn gold pendant Thomas Sabo, £598, 65 South Molton St, W1K 5SU

G I F T G U I D E

SPARKLE Take your pick from jewellery and watches to brighten up your Christmas

Swarovski Rapunzel limited-edition figurine Disney Store, £349, 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH

Anne Boleyn initial necklace, Tower of London Shop, £50, St Katharine’s & Wapping, EC3N 4AB

Royal blue Galaxy charm Pandora, £60, 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD

Paul Smith bike cufflinks John Lewis, £85, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas watch in three-coloured gold Harrods (price on request), 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

Longines Master stainless steel and leather watch Selfridges, £2,190, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

Triple labradorite, red agate and amethyst ring National Gallery Shop, £55, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

Heart pendant Kensington Palace Shop, £150, Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX

Bvlgari Divas’ Dream earrings in yellow gold with malachites Harrods (price on request), 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF STOCKISTS

Majestic crown gold charm with diamonds Pandora, £600, 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD

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THE NE W JOHN LE WI S & PARTNERS COLLECTION

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

TRTL travel pillow TRTL, £24.95, www.trtltravel.com

Pink rocker bauble Crabtree & Evelyn, £15, 151 Regent St, W1B 4JD

Ilanit Bambi square cushion Disney Store, £18, 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH

Weekend away travel bag Baylis & Harding, £40, Debenhams, 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG

G I F T G U I D E

RELAX From candles to creams, these gifts will help anyone to unwind

Wild Fig & Cassis scented candle Jo Malone London, £300, 101 Regent St, W1B 4EZ

Hidden London tile cushion cover, Euston London Transport Museum, £16.99, Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB

Classic Spitfire leather washbag Imperial War Museum, £40, Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ

Hestia terracotta column candle National Theatre Shop, £22, Upper Ground, SE1 9PX

REN Peaceful Sleep Night Care gift set Space NK Apothecary, £20, 32 Shelton St, WC2H 9JE

Kally ergonomic sleep pillow Selfridges, £49.99, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

Noel reed diffuser Crabtree & Evelyn, £50, 151 Regent St, W1B 4JD

Moquette hinged storage cube London Transport Museum, £174.99 (small), £314.99 (big), Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB

Mickey Mouse personalised cushion Disney Store, £25, 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF STOCKISTS

Luxury beauty hamper Baylis & Harding, £50, Debenhams, 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG

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V&A South Kensington New galleries now open vam.ac.uk Admission free The Photography Centre is supported by The Bern Schwartz Family Foundation, Modern Media, Shao Zhong Art Foundation and many other generous donors. Linda McCartney (1941â&#x20AC;&#x201C;98) Jimi Hendrix. Bromide print, 1968, printed later. Given by Sir Paul McCartney ÂŠ 1968 Paul McCartney / Photographer: Linda McCartney

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

Boba Fett Vinyl Bobble Head Disney Store, £10.49, 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH

Tower Bridge Creator Lego Store, £219, 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP

Louise Bourgeois memory card game Tate Modern Shop, £20, Bankside, SE1 9TG

Mind the Gap card game National Gallery Shop, £15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN

G I F T G U I D E

Trafalgar Square jigsaw puzzle National Gallery Shop, £11, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN

PLAY Whether they’re for young ones or big kids, these games will keep everyone entertained

Monopoly, Queen version Bohemian Rhapsody pop-up shop, £30, 3 Carnaby St, W1F 9PB

Paddington Bear and Union Jack bag Hamleys, £11, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT

Guerrilla Girls Disturbing the Peace jigsaw puzzle Tate Modern Shop, £25, Bankside, SE1 9TG

London Skyline chess set National Gallery Shop, £95, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN

Metal Spitfire model Imperial War Museum, £580, Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ

Limited-edition Johnston Scrabble London Transport Museum Shop, £49.99, Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB

Garmin Minnie Mouse Vivofit activity tracker for kids Disney Store, £69.99, 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH

Royal Guardsman bear Historic Royal Palaces, £14.99, www.hrp.org.uk

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF STOCKISTS

Hogwarts Express glass paperweight Harry Potter Shop, £14, Platform 9¾, King’s Cross Station, N1 9AP

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Sights to behold What was the biggest event in 2018? It had to be Prince Harry marrying Meghan Markle (you might have heard about it). I watched it on TV with friends, which was huge fun thanks to a ceremony that was consistently entertaining. Something else that both of this year’s British royal weddings delivered was a polished look at the town of Windsor. The castle (p. 39) is currently displaying Harry and Meghan’s wedding outfits and it’s also dressed for Christmas, so now’s the time for a day trip on the one-hour train journey to Windsor. This year I finally tried the slide at the ArcelorMittal Orbit (p. 26) in the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Anish Kapoor’s spiralling sculpture is a 15-minute walk from where I live in Stratford, so it was about time. It totally exceeded my expectations: the 40-second ride down the tunnel slide is faster, scarier and more brilliant than I had anticipated. Once you’re down, it’s time to go up again and find out more about the tower’s East End views.

You can also pay an extra £5 to ride the slide for a second time; I suggest you then stroll through the park to Here East for its great canalside restaurants. Getting attention this year, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (p. 30) reopened its massive Temperate House in May, which had been closed for five years for refurbishment. I visited this Victorian glasshouse (the world’s largest) as a child, so it was thrilling to see it restoration-fresh. Its 15,000 panes of glass were replaced, under which 10,000 plants from 1,500 different species grow. It’s now bathed in incredible illuminations every evening for Christmas. For me, however, the most exciting London sightseeing development this year was The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries (p. 34) at Westminster Abbey. Opened in June, the galleries tell the abbey’s story through more

ArcelorMittal Orbit

than 300 objects. Highlights include Prince William and Kate Middleton’s 2011 marriage licence and Mary II’s 1689 Coronation Chair, its surface scratched with ancient graffiti. That might not sound too thrilling by itself, but in order to make room for the new galleries, Westminster Abbey opened up a beautiful space in its roof. Sixteen metres above ground level, it offers breathtaking views of the nave below, as well as the Houses of Parliament outside through its circular, stained-glass windows. Look out for the window created by British artist David Hockney, too. Depicting hawthorn blossom, he designed it on an iPad.

HARRY AND MEGHAN © TO BAG A PRINCE; ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT © FRANK DA SILVA PHOTOGRAPHY

As the year draws to a close, Neil Simpson looks back at what has happened in London and beyond in 2018 and picks his highlights

Prince Harry and Meghan Markle

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas times

Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Sat-Sun 10am4pm; closed 29-30 Dec. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond (p. 24). Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-4.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-5.30pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittal orbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting; closed 24-26 Dec & 1 Jan. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as a programme of temporary exhibitions. To 19 Feb 2019: Anglo-Saxon Kingdoms: Art, Word, War. Ancient British manuscripts dating from between the fifth century and 1066, including the Domesday Book and a huge copy of the Bible called the Codex Amiantinus, created by English

monks in 716 AD. To 24 Feb 2019: PG Wodehouse: The Man and His Work. With famous and lesser-known works, this display traces the British author’s creative development. To 17 Mar 2019: Cats on the Page. The library’s entrance hall is taken over by images of literary cats, from the children’s book Mog by Judith Kerr to Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats by TS Eliot. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm; closed 24-26 Dec & 1 Jan. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross/St Pancras.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. Normally closed to the public, it’s possible to tour the State Rooms and garden during the summer. The Changing the Guard ceremony, during which one regiment takes over from another to protect the Queen and the palace, takes place in the forecourt on most mornings; check online for the full schedule. www.royalcollection.org.uk/buckinghampalace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard Watch the Changing of the Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, who during the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, march to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; please check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Hold out for a hero Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it’s Marvel’s immersive Avengers S.T.A.T.I.O.N. at ExCeL London. Having already touched down in New York, Paris and Las Vegas, it is guaranteed to be a super day out. If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to be a superhero, this is for you – lift Thor’s hammer, look into Bruce Banner’s laboratory and interact with props and characters from film franchises, including never-before-seen displays from Black Panther. NASA has also contributed to the experience, having curated EYE, an attraction which gives an insight into other planets in the universe. www.excel.london

The Charterhouse Dating back to 1348, this historic site was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. Previously hidden in plain sight by a high border wall, the handsome Charterhouse has only been open to the public since 2017. There’s a museum about its past and visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny, curious chapel. Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site, as it is still home to a small community of retired residents, the Brothers. 16 Dec: Christmas Family Tour. This festive tour sends you on a quest to find the six greyhounds scattered around The Charterhouse; 45 mins from 11am or noon; adult and two children £12. Tue-Sun 11am-5.20pm; approximately three tours per day; closed 23-27 Dec & 1 Jan. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour from £10; Brothers’ tour from £15. www.thecharter house.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical specimens in glasshouses. Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am-4pm, or dusk if earlier. Adult £9.50; child £6.25. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens With glorious neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy, this manor house is closed during winter. Its 18th-century restored gardens remain open, however. To 30 Dec: After Dark. Follow this 45-minute trail designed by Nick Gray, who has worked on light shows for the likes of London Fashion Week. Street food stalls, hot drinks and fine dining in the conservatory complete the experience (p. 28). Thur-Sun 5.30pm10pm, from £15.40. Gardens daily from sunrise until dusk. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark Climb aboard the world’s last surviving tea clipper, located in Greenwich. Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board a the fastest ship of her day. Daily 10am-5pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. To 4 Jan 2019: Christmas Installation. The house is turned into a festive wonderland of vintage cards, open fires and a period Christmas tree. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm; no tours 24 Dec or 31 Dec. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

IMAGE © TOMEK PLESKACZYNSKI

SIGHTSEEING

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SIGHTSEEING Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this atmospheric 18th-century period home. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. The current exhibition, Curious Travellers: Dr Johnson and Thomas Pennant on Tour, explores how Johnson and his contemporary Pennant became pioneers of the travel writing genre as they toured Scotland and Wales. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50. www.drjohnsons house.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 0207353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. 6-9, 13-16 & 20-22 Dec: Enchanted Eltham. The palace gardens come alive with a light and music trail, fairground stalls, mulled wine and mince pies; 4.30pm-9pm; adult £12, child £7.50. Palace & gardens Sun & 31 Dec 10am-4pm; adult £15, child £9. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Fulham Palace This 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and tours. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm3.30pm; Sun & bank hols noon-4pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulham palace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Western wonder Known for its winter illuminations, west London’s Chiswick House & Gardens has upped the ante this year by switching on a new attraction, called After Dark (to 30 Dec; p. 26). On Thursday to Sunday evenings until 10pm, this 18th-century villa with landscaped gardens will pierce the night with lights and music. Follow a 45-minute trail designed by Nick Gray, who has previously worked on light shows for the likes of Calvin Harris and London Fashion Week. There’s light at the end of the trail too, thanks to a collection of street food traders. Head online to book tickets and – if you’re in the mood for something more refined – to enquire about the Supper Club fine dining sessions, hosted in Chiswick House’s conservatory.

Go Ape Alexandra Palace

Go Ape Battersea Park

A treetop obstacle course for children and adults with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. The experience can take up to three hours. There’s a free-fall Tarzan swing and a 14m sheer drop called The Plummet. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake, ice rink, play area and café nearby. Daily; please check online for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace/Wood Green.

Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while you are attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Make a day of it and play crazy golf beneath the high ropes, and meet the animals at Battersea Park Children’s Zoo. Open daily; check online for time and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

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SIGHTSEEING Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. General admission Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm; Sat-Sun noon-4pm; garden daily 10am-4pm; house and gardens closed 24-25 Dec. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London Tour the former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. 18 Dec: Christmas Showcase. Sing along to carols and hear top-class performances of Baroque music, all at the nearby St George’s Church; 7pm, £12. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; closed 23-26 & 30-31 Dec and 1 Jan; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street. Permanently moored on the Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-6pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. Tours every Sat and Wed-Fri from 21 Dec to 4 Jan 2019; no tours 26 Dec. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. WedSun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tour at 3pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence in Kensington Gardens was Princess Diana’s last home, and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Don’t miss the exhibition Diana: Her Fashion Story, a fashion collection dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-4pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Football reboot The UK is in the thick of its football season right now, so why not book a Stamford Bridge stadium tour (especially if you’re a Chelsea fan)? New multimedia devices will provide summarised translations in 12 languages, which work alongside what the tour guides tell visitors in English. The Chelsea FC Museum (p. 41) is now presented in 12 languages, too, so that visitors from all over the world can appreciate each artefact, film and interactive display.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Daily 10am-4pm; closed 24-26 & 31 Dec and 1 Jan. Free admission. www. english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Treetop Walkway offers great views. Don’t miss the Temperate House, which is the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world and has reopened following a five-year refurbishment (p. 24). To 5 Jan 2019: Christmas at Kew. The gardens’ sixth annual lights festival features more than one million tiny lights, laser-beam displays and the Fire Garden, as well as lots of traditional Christmas decorations; from 5pm, booking strongly advised. Daily 10am-3.30pm; closed 24-25 Dec. Adult £12.50, child £4.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun too. It also hosts occasional adult nights. Daily from 10am; closing

times vary so check; closed 3-4, 10-11 & 24-26 Dec. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to London Tombs, which are located in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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SIGHTSEEING ZSL London Zoo

Madame Tussauds

The Monument

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions and endangered Sumatran tigers. To 1 Jan: Christmas at ZSL London. Follow a mile-long illuminated path which lights up the zoo after dark, including the Light Vortex – this tunnel has a canopy studded with more than 100,000 tiny lights. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Camel Chat. Daily 10am-4pm; closed 25 Dec. Adult £22.73; child £17.73. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the films and the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony. Other recent additions include Mo Farah, the Duchess of Sussex and Yang Mi. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. C6. Station: Baker Street.

This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. A trampoline park has just opened beneath the domed roof, as well as ICON, a shopping outlet. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0208463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower (p. 24). Check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queen elizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade-I-listed Georgian building houses a museum about the institution’s Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www. rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Observatory

Don’t miss the Changing the Guard ceremony (p. 26)

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Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world! Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Book online to save. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

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SIGHTSEEING SEA LIFE London

18 Stafford Terrace

Tower Bridge Exhibition

As one of Europe’s largest aquariums, this centre on the South Bank near the Coca-Cola London Eye features 500 species of global marine life. Highlights include walk-through tank tunnels and a glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the aquarium’s new Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. You can also see the playful Gentoo penguins enjoying their icy enclosure. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his family and their live-in servants, who resided here from 1875. The house is a rare example of what was known as an ‘Aesthetic interior’ or ‘House Beautiful’ style. The Aesthetic movement of the 19th century advocated the use of foreign or ‘exotic’ influences in home decoration. A highlight is the costumed actor tours, every Saturday from 11am. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop-ins 2pm-5.30pm or late tour on 5, 6, 12 & 19 Dec from 7pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This breathtaking bridge, which was designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older, neighbour London Bridge). About 40,000 people cross the bridge each day and now you can see inside it: you can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times, which can be as many as eight times a day. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. On selected dates during Dec, you can experience elvish entertainment and a photo with Santa on a visit to his grotto; advance booking essential. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St Katharine Docks

Three domes. Five floors. And Europe’s greatest crypt. See an other side of St Paul’s.

This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. A vibrant waterside destination, it’s lined with regular markets, shops, the Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Dokke, Bravas Tapas and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. 3-9 Dec: Christmas Floating Film Festival. Settle down on a bean bag with a blanket on the covered pontoon, to watch a classic Christmas film; online booking essential. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with regular tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and art exhibitions. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. This month, the church is running a busy programme of festive services and Christmas carolling events, such as a free Crib Family Service with carol singing, 1.30pm-2.30pm, 24 Dec. MonFri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartinin-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CHANGING THE GUARD © VISIT LONDON/PAWEL LIBERA

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. 1 & 2 Dec: Advent Procession. Between 6pm and 7.15pm, this free, unticketed and dramatic service sees the procession move from darkness into light, with readings and music. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.

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SIGHTSEEING Tower of London

Up at The O2

The View from The Shard

This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. To 6 Jan 2019: Tower of London Ice Rink. Skating returns to the tower for the festive season, providing the opportunity to take to the ice in the moat next to the boundary wall. Skate sessions Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; adult £14.50, child £10.50. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an expedition across the roof of The O2, via a walkway that is suspended 52m above ground level. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Choirs will bring festive cheer to climbs (14-16 & 21-23 Dec). Enjoy a free drink when you reach the viewing platform, as you listen to Christmas classics. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Map inset. Station: North Greenwich.

Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Alternatively, make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco from 10pm on 1 & 8 Dec; £37.50, book online. 15 Dec: Christmas Ball. Join this evening party, including a DJ, Champagne and the rare chance to climb up to level 72 and experience an even higher view; 10pm-2am, £35, book online. To 15 Dec SunWed 10am-6pm, Thur-Sat 10am-10pm; 16-30 Dec daily 10am-10pm; closed 25 Dec. Advance adult £24.50, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut and Diagon Alley. To 27 Jan 2019: Hogwarts in the Snow. See the Great Hall dressed for the Yule Ball and the Hogwarts model coated in snow, then take a behind-the-scenes look at the various types of snow that were created for filming. Please check for times; closed 25-26 Dec. To 31 Dec adult £41, child £33; from 1 Jan 2019 adult £43, child £35. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-4pm; closed 24-26 & 31 Dec & 1 Jan 2019. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey

Includes Russia, Royalty and the Romanovs and Roger Fenton’s Photographs of the Crimea, 1855

Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In June, the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, its four displays collectively tell the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects (p. 24). Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm; closed 4, 24 & 25 Dec. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £22; child £9. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £27; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre

9 November 2018 – 28 April 2019 www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301

This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens, which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. 8-9 & 15-16 Dec: Santa’s Grotto. Meet Father Christmas and receive a gift; tickets must be booked in advance online. Daily 9.30am4.30pm; closed 25 Dec. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

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SIGHTSEEING

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Alice in Winterland To 5 Jan: Immersive, interactive and illuminated

attraction, with a Christmas market and Santa’s grotto. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com. Daily 3pm-10pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.alice inwinterland.co.uk. Southwark Park, Gomm Rd, SE16 2TX. T: 0202-7341 6286. Off map. Station: Canada Water/Bermondsey.

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland To 6 Jan: One of the UK’s biggest winter festivals,

it’s held every festive season. As well as a Bavarian market, traditional fairground and big wheel, you can ice skate on the UK’s biggest outdoor rink and try an ice sculpting class. Daily 10am-10pm. Free admission; pre-booked tickets necessary for selected shows. www.hydeparkwinterwonder land.com. Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Marble Arch.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10.20am-3.30pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11.20am-4.30pm; no service 24-26 Dec & 1 Jan 2019. Check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thames riverservices.london. Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the

tide so please check for times; no service 25-26 & 31 Dec & 1 Jan 2019. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39, child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Westminster.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours each month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. 5 Dec, 1pm, Holborn Station Kiosk: Heretic! Find out about the pre-Reformation rebel Sir John Oldcastle, who led a religious sect in the 15th century. 6 & 20 Dec,

Winterville on Clapham Common To 23 Dec: This annual festival has an open-air ice rink. You can also enjoy comedy, cabaret, family shows and club nights, or shop at a Christmas market. Tue-Thur 3pm-10pm; Fri 3pm10.30pm; Sat 10am-10.30pm; Sun 10am-10pm. Free admission Tue; Wed-Sun adult from £2; child free. www.winterville.co.uk. Clapham Common, SW4. Off map. Station: Clapham Common.

WINDSOR CASTLE

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Mon-Fri departures 11am-3pm, Sat-Sun departures 11am-3.40pm; no service 24-26 Dec & 1 Jan 2019. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Check website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. T: 020-7740 0400.

London Eye River Cruise

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from London piers every 20 minutes. Discounts with Oyster and contactless payment. Download the free in:flow app, which uses GPS to find out your location, and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75; under-fives travel free. Adult single journeys from £4.60. www.mbna thamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.

26 October 2018 – 6 January 2019 A special exhibition at Windsor Castle

10 WEEKS ONLY

©PA

Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-4.45pm; 26 Dec 11.45am4.45pm; 25 Dec no service; 31 Dec 10.45am-1.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye. com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Book online for guaranteed entry

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SIGHTSEEING 12.30pm, Farringdon Station: Scratching Sounds. Tour Clerkenwell to discover one of London’s most famous hauntings. Full walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require prebooking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Adult £37; child £19.40. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus. Departs from the Big Bus bus stop in Trafalgar Square. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 10.30am. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips

outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours. co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market, all within London’s historic Square Mile. Free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930 – it is the oldest and largest sightseeing company in London. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

Hairy Goat Photography Tours Exploratory photography tours plus tailor-made or regular group workshops during the day or night. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the street and river scenes in order to show what a joy London is to photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-83277.

Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited to enhance the experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON IMAGES/BRITAIN ON VIEW

See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

For great views, go on the Coca-Cola London Eye (p. 30)

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SIGHTSEEING Kia Oval Tours

Royal Opera House

Shakespeare’s Globe

Tour the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, Kennington Oval, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

One of the world’s leading opera venues and home to The Royal Ballet company. Check for tours and times. £10-£15 per person. www.roh.org.uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe theatre has the city’s only thatched roof, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a separate, candlelit performance space. Hear stories of the 1599 Globe, the reconstruction process in the 1990s and how the ‘wooden O’ works today as an experimental theatrical space. Tours begin every 30 minutes, daily 9.30am-5pm; 6 Dec 9.30am-11.30am; 23 Dec 9.30am-1.30pm; no tours 24-25 Dec; 26 Dec 11.30am-5pm. Exhibition and theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakes pearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £40). www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park station, by exit closest to The Ritz hotel. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. There are regular departures from outside The Ritz. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm; no tours 25 & 31 Dec. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 0207887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. Thur 7pm; Sat 1pm & 5pm. Tickets £24, booking advised. www.londonliterary pubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Magical Tours This is an award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. If you would like to discover the UK at your own pace, you can explore with your own tour team, which includes a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 0203239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience. Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour These live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its 24-hour tour includes free walks and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. Winter offer! 24-hour extension on all 24-hour, 48-hour & 72-hour tickets until 28 Feb. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross. Tour this Victorian concert hall. Daily 10am-4pm; no tours 8-10, 15, 20 & 23-26 Dec. Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES

VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION. 02514

Royal Albert Hall Tours

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SIGHTSEEING Twizy Tours

Westways Carriage Horses

Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through London accompanied by an audio tour. Alternatively, rent a Twizy and roam at your own pace. Prices from £29.99 per tour. www.twizytours. com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. £550 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses. co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this football stadium and concert venue. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium. com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll drive a car around the city’s top sights guided by GPS. The Congestion Charge is included. Tours last 90 minutes. £30 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £40 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

CHRISTMAS STORIES AVAILABLE IN CAPSULE

FROM

NOVEMBER

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm; closed 24-26 & 31 Dec & 1 Jan 2019. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. To 6 Jan 2019: Illuminated Christmas Trail. Enjoy lasers, projections, thousands of tiny lights and singing trees draped with illuminations; daily 4.40pm-10pm. Palace only accessible with Christmas tickets, advance booking essential; park daily 9am-5pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 9.30am-3.30pm; palace closed 8 Dec; entire property closed 25 Dec. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Chartwell

BE PART OF THE

CHRISTMAS SKYLINE dreamteam812

The Official London Eye

The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill. While Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living here, it was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation. The house is decorated as it was in the 1930s and there’s also a lovely kitchen garden and woodlands. To 16 Dec house Sat-Sun 11am-3pm; house closed from 17 Dec. Garden and restaurant daily 10am-4pm; closed 24-25 Dec. Adult £14.40; child £7.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted.

Visit Westminster Abbey, consecrated in 1065 (p. 34)

dreamteam812 Christmas drinks with a view! #LondonEye #Champagne #Eyelovelondon

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See londoneye.com for full terms. Save up to 10% when tickets are booked online 24hrs+ in advance. COCA-COLA and the CONTOUR BOTTLE are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company. © 2018 DreamWorks Animation L.L.C. The London Eye is conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects. Content shown has been altered for the sake of communications and some images have been captured with professional cameras. All images and copy are for illustrative purposes only.

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SIGHTSEEING Hampton Court Palace

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village

Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and his courtiers, and see Henry’s State Apartments including the Great Hall. To 6 Jan 2019: Ice Rink. Glide around the ice in a spectacular setting as this annual tradition returns. Daily 10am-4.30pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures, plus a chapel. Tue-Sun & banks hols 10am-4pm; closed 24-26 Dec. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Hever Castle and Gardens

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle (p. 24). This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed in May and where Princess Eugenie (ninth in line to the throne)

married Jack Brooksbank in October. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. To 6 Jan 2019: A Royal Wedding: The Duke and Duchess of Sussex. See the couple’s wedding outfits on display including Meghan’s wedding dress, designed by the British designer Clare Waight Keller, artistic director at Givenchy. Daily 10am-4.15pm; closed 25-26 Dec. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk/windsorcastle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of King Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors. Outside, the castle’s gardens feature statues and a lake. To 24 Dec: Christmas at Hever Castle. Following the theme of ‘Traditional Christmas Tales’, the castle is decorated for the season, with a trail in the grounds inspired by Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol. To 9 Dec Wed-Sun 10.30am-6pm, castle from noon; from 10 Dec to 23 Dec daily 10.30am-6pm, castle from noon; from 24 Dec 10.30am-3pm, castle from noon; closed 25-26 Dec. Adult £17.25; child £9.75. www.hevercastle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Garden daily 10am-4pm; garden closed 25 Dec. To 16 Dec house Sat-Sun 11am-4pm; from 17 Dec house closed. Adult £9.05; child £4.50. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm; closed 25-26 Dec. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/ palaceofholyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive, early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-5pm; closed 25 Dec. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. During selected dates in December, Stories with Santa gives little ones the chance to meet Santa and his elves during a storytelling session. Check for times. Castle adult £27, child £24; castle & dungeon adult £32, child £28. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Tours available year round Book online or call us on +44 20 7219 4114

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

New spaces and places

Royal Academy of Arts

Some of the capital’s greatest institutions, including the Royal Academy of Arts, have been revamped this year, writes Neil Simpson Elsewhere, the National Maritime Museum (p. 42) trumped the Hayward Gallery by adding four new galleries, meaning more room for the museum’s historic treasures. If you’re looking for more new gallery spaces, visit The Wallace Collection (p. 44). This grand house in Marylebone is dripping with 19th-century splendour. Its new gallery presents Sir Richard Wallace: The Collector, an exhibition about the museum’s founder. Opened in 2017, The Postal Museum (p. 42) in Clerkenwell is well worth a visit. The major draw is the Mail Rail, a tiny underground train which zipped post around the city until 2003, and the 15-minute ride on it is great fun. Finally, the Royal Air Force (p. 42) turned 100 years old in 2018 and its museum in north-west London has been transformed, with newly landscaped grounds and a kids’ playground. Inside, two new gallery spaces house exhibitions on the RAF’s history; I could easily have spent a day looking around its dynamic displays. Happy birthday to the RAF!

The Postal Museum

Royal Academy of Arts

ROYAL ACADEMY EXTERIOR © RA; THE POSTAL MUSEUM © MILES WILLIS; ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS INTERIOR © SIMON MENGES

This year has been a monumental one for the Royal Academy of Arts, which reached the grand old age of 250. It has celebrated by being impossible to ignore in 2018, from its high-brow art flags fluttering on Piccadilly this summer, to blockbuster exhibitions and a big redevelopment. Its two separate buildings are now joined by a vaulted corridor (filled with art, of course) and it has new gallery spaces. Don’t miss Renzo Piano: The Art of Making Buildings, the Academy’s current exhibition about The Shard’s architect (p. 44). A clutch of other museums and galleries have rung in the changes this year too, most significantly the Hayward Gallery (p. 44). It’s a Brutalist eyesore on the outside (opinion entirely my own!) but now, a true beauty on the inside. Opened in 1968, the Southbank Centre‘s gallery had been shut for a two-year facelift, and now the space is flooded with an ocean of natural light. The gallery is known for its eye-candy exhibitions such as the current, mind-bending Space Shifters.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for Christmas times

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Enjoy a self-guided audio tour inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s 132-year history. Please check for times and prices. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. Exhibiting its books, silver, paintings, coins and photographs. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House Charming 18th-century townhouse and the last remaining home of the American diplomat, inventor and Founding Father. Please check for times and prices of architectural and historical tours. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Embankment.

Body Worlds This new flagship contains 200 exhibits exploring how every part of the human body works. Please check for times and prices. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. The London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, including treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. To 20 Jan 2019: I Object: Ian Hislop’s Search for Dissent. The satirist curates this exhibition questioning how accurate our collective history really is. To 24 Feb 2019: I am Ashurbanipal: King of the World, King of Assyria. The story of Ashurbanipal, who ruled Assyria until 627 BC. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Design Museum This is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. Designer Maker User is a free, permanent display of the museum’s contemporary collection. Please check for times. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Fashion and Textile Museum Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. Please check for times. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftm london.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 0207407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

The Guards Museum Discover the history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the royal palaces. It’s a great insight into the Changing the Guard ceremony. Daily 10am-4pm; closed from 19 Dec onwards. Adult £8; child free. www.theguards museum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurous Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and huge selection of musical instruments, plus gardens and a farmers’ market every Saturday morning. Daily 10am-5.30pm.

Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions and events. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 10 Mar: Journeys Drawn: Illustration from the Refugee Crisis. Illustrators display work inspired by recent journeys made by refugees, such as drawings of the ‘Jungle’ in Calais and animations by an Iranian political refugee. To 27 Jan: 100 Figures: The Unseen Art of Quentin Blake. A collection of oil paintings, drawings and prints created by Blake. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration. org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations, particularly those involving Britain. Don’t miss

Biology matters Dr Gunther von Hagens strikes again, with the return to London of his life’s work. This is the doctor who caused a stir when he first performed a human dissection on UK television in 2002 – and now is famed for his Body Worlds. Established in 1995, this world-famous, touring attraction has a new permanent home in Piccadilly. It is an ambitious, three-floor exhibition packed with astounding displays. Plastination, a preservation method pioneered by Hagens in the 1970s, is used to present real human bodies, opened up to reveal how they work. While these exhibits may shock some people, they are undoubtedly unforgettable.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of the Victorian novelist, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist (p. 10). Decorated in Victorian style, it displays his possessions. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 0207405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours

BODY WORLDS © JEFF MOORE

Interactive tour of Chelsea FC including the changing rooms, press room and pitch side, plus a museum with shirts and silverware (p. 30). Check for times and prices. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Jack the Ripper Museum

Museum of London Docklands

The Postal Museum

The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumof london.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.

Thousands of exhibits explore postal history, including old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms, plus weapons used to protect the delivery service. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, an underground train used to transport post for 75 years until 2003 (p. 40). Daily 10am-5pm. Check for prices. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 0300-030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.

More than just an exploration of National Army Museum the notorious killer’s terrible crimes, Interactive displays and exhibitions within this Victorian house you’ll telling the story of soldiers’ lives, Tate Modern art gallery, also discover the history of east from Tudor times to the present which is housed in the London during the 1880s. Explore day. Regular lectures, events and former Bankside Power six floors of rooms which recreate expert speakers on military matters, Station, has a chimney key scenes from the serial killer’s plus long-term exhibitions. Daily that is 99m tall infamous rampage, including 10am-5.30pm and until 8pm on the Whitechapel police station and a first Wed of every month. Admission free; mortuary. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. child £8. www.jacktherippermuseum.com. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. G5. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Sloane Square. Station: Aldgate East/Tower Hill.

Jewish Museum Museum documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the East End’s Jewish immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery displays a harrowing collection of photographs and accounts. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum. org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm, tour every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Adult £9; child £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s new European headquarters in the City, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains are brought to life through an immersive, multi-sensory experience, and you can see artefacts found during the excavation. Please check for times. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.

London Transport Museum Displaying the story of London’s transport system including iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and the Poster Girls exhibition, which highlights London Transport artwork by female graphic artists. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.lt museum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

National Maritime Museum

Get up close to the objects that made history – from maritime exhibits to great British art – at the world’s largest maritime museum (p. 40). Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Astounding collections with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 6 Jan 2019: Ice Rink. Take to the ice in the museum’s spectacular forecourt. To 3 Jun 2019: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. See this year’s shortlist of 100 entries, representing the best in nature photography. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Queen’s House This royal villa, designed by Inigo Jones, is a masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. Enjoy the spectacular art, architecture and royal history of the house. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tour. www.rmg.co.uk. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet and the chance to climb inside selected types of aircraft (p. 40). Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.raf museum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements. There’s a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX theatre showing 3D science films, while permanent galleries include Making the Modern World, with Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 command module. To 6 May 2019: The Sun: Living with our Star. Demonstrating how the sun has been harnessed by humans. Daily, please check for times. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Up and coming For a lesser-known artistic treat, visit the Flemish-style Dora House on Old Brompton Road, home to the Royal Society of Sculptors since 1905. Every year, the society awards bursaries to the best emerging talents working in sculpture. The Bursary Awards Exhibition (from 10 Dec; p. 44) showcases works of its six recipients, among them Harrison Pearce. ‘My work draws on philosophy, absurdist theatre, medical practice and factory automation,’ he explains. His piece Defence Cascade highlights the closing gap between humans and machines: the structure consists of flesh-like cushions in metal cages being repeatedly prodded by mechanical metal sticks.

OUTSIDE THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF SCULPTORS © ANNE-KATRIN PURKISS

the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Sir John Soane’s Museum

World Rugby Museum

National Portrait Gallery

Visit the 19th-century townhouse owned by architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837. It houses his collection amassed from around the world, plus Hogarth’s satirical artworks. Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. Check for late opening. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

This showcase for global rugby culture includes more than 38,000 objects, from early-20th-century Welsh national teams to the 1924 New Zealand side and the 2003 England team. Discover the history of Twickenham Stadium, test your rugby skills in an interactive display and enjoy a range of short films. Check for times and prices. www.worldrugby museum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

Prominent gallery, more than 150 years old, with works depicting British people in art. To 27 Jan 2019: Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2018. Annual competition, with the 57 finalists on display. To 3 Feb 2019: Gainsborough’s Family Album. Uniting portraits of the British artist’s daughters, alongside family paintings. Please check for times. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg. org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Thames-side 18th-century building with the Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. To 3 Mar 2019: Good Grief, Charlie Brown! Original works of Charles M Schulz’s Peanuts alongside contemporary designs inspired by his cartoons. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Please check for times. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Victoria and Albert Museum Outstanding global collection of fine and applied arts spanning 3,000 years. To 27 Jan 2019: Fashioned from Nature. Innovative new fabrics, fashion and natural history specimens and sustainability of the fashion industry. To 24 Feb 2019: Videogames: Design/Play/Disrupt. Videogame design influences and their global cultural impact. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam. ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour (p. 40). Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, which is the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome and features eye-popping antique medical equipment. Regular talks and tours. Please check for times. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent champions. Touchscreens show past sporting greats in action. Don’t miss the virtual-reality, 360-degree experience narrated by Tim Henman. Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. Check for times and prices. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

The Photographers’ Gallery

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 27 Jan 2019: Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde. Celebrating creatives who became more than friends, including Pablo Picasso and Dora Maar, and Virginia Woolf and Vita Sackville-West (Art Gallery). Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces, plus a Roman Amphitheatre discovered in 1988 (free with gallery ticket). MonSat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. Please check for times and prices. www.thephoto graphersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery Gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace with works often sourced from the Royal Collection. To 28 Apr: Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs. Examining the strong bond that developed between the British and Russian royal families during the 17th century. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/ Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive building housing RA Collection works in all media (p. 40). To 10 Dec: Oceania. Commemorating 250 years since Captain Cook’s voyage to the Pacific. To 3 Feb 2019: Klimt / Schiele: Drawings from the Albertina Museum, Vienna. See drawings that demonstrate the great working relationship of Austrian artist Egon Schiele and his mentor, Gustav Klimt. Please check for times and prices. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Between 1900 and 1933, The British Museum had its own Tube station, which was reputed to be haunted

Hayward Gallery This refurbished gallery now has pyramid skylights providing a light-filled space (p. 40). To 6 Jan: Space Shifters. Contributed by more than 20 artists from around the world, each of these artworks seeks to challenge your sense of space in disruptive ways. Check for times and prices. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. To 27 Jan: Mantegna and Bellini. Exploring the works of two celebrated Renaissance artists. To 20 Jan: Courtauld Impressionists: From Manet to Cézanne. Display of the Courtauld Gallery’s Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works, during its two-year renovation. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs is on at The Queen’s Gallery

Royal Society of Sculptors Regular series of exhibitions on sculpture. From 10 Dec: Bursary Awards Exhibition. See the work of six sculptors who have received the society’s annual bursary (p. 42). Mon-Fri 11am5pm; Sat 1pm-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors. org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 0207373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 24 Feb 2019: Edward Burne-Jones. Paintings, tapestries and stained-glass by the Victorian-era British artist. To 6 Jan 2019: Turner Prize 2018. Honouring the four British artists who have been shortlisted for this year’s annual visual arts award. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 27 Jan 2019: Anni Albers. Showcasing Albers’ woven creations, drawings and paintings. To 24 Feb 2019: Hyundai Commission: Tania Bruguera. In the gallery’s Turbine Hall, the Cuban artist’s installation responds to the global migration crisis with a heat-sensitive floor that reveals a large portrait when it’s exposed to body heat. Check for times and prices. www.tate. org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

CIGARETTE CASE © THE ROYAL COLLECTION

Somerset House

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Stealing the show Few cities can compete with London’s theatre scene, but when you’re spoilt for choice, how can you choose which show to see? Entertainment editor Sarah Riches shares her top three

Bat Out of Hell

story and didn’t see the twist coming – I even 2012 Paralympics Opening Ceremony. heard some people gasp. So, if you only By the closing scene I was on my feet watch one play, make it this one. cheering – and I wasn’t the only one. While Witness for the Prosecution Witness for the Prosecution has elements of immersive (p. 48), meanwhile, is a theatre, if you really want courtroom drama based to get involved in a show, on Agatha Christie’s story then visit The Vaults, of the same name. Set a network of tunnels in the 1950s, the play beneath Waterloo Station. follows Leonard Vole I’ve visited multiple times after he’s accused of but I never get my bearings murdering a widow and I experience something to inherit her wealth. different on each visit. If found guilty, he’ll be Witness for the I’ve played croquet with sentenced to death. Prosecution flamingos at Alice in Wonderland, Directed by Lucy Bailey, it is sipped glow-in-the-dark soup at staged in the former courtroom at Dinner at the Twits and seen the cast of Hair County Hall, and as the cast roam around the Musical strip. During the annual Vault the space you hear their calls and footsteps Festival (from 23 Jan), meanwhile – which echoing around the chamber. A dozen celebrates comedy, music and theatre – I also audience members sit in original jury seats, watched a play set in a car outside. while one delivers the verdict. When it comes to surprising jaded audiences, It’s as gripping as a real trial – especially as London most definitely has it. the 15-strong cast sought legal advice and The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. toured the Old Bailey during rehearsals to www.thevaults.london make it authentic. I wasn’t familiar with the

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

If you want to watch a West End show, you can take your pick from musicals, plays and immersive experiences. I’m no die-hard Meat Loaf fan, but one of my favourite musicals is Bat Out of Hell (p. 47) at the Dominion Theatre, which had its world premiere at the London Coliseum in 2017. Inspired by the rocker’s 1977 album of the same name, the musical roars on to the stage with the title track and includes hits such as You Took the Words Right Out of My Mouth and Two Out of Three Ain’t Bad – plus two new songs, What Part of My Body Hurts the Most and Not Allowed to Love. Set in a futuristic dystopian city which is adrift from the mainland, it follows Strat (Jordan Luke Gage) – the forever young leader of The Lost – as he falls for Raven (Christina Bennington), the daughter of tyrannical ruler Falco (Rob Fowler). It’s got video projections, smoke and motorbikes revving across the stage, as well as catchy tunes, energetic dancing and an incredible set – the choreographer worked on Justin Bieber’s Purpose world tour, while the lighting designer worked on the London

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP). Check for Christmas times

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES

Waters run deep Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake returns to Sadler’s Wells theatre nearly 25 years after its premiere (from 4 Dec; p. 52). Composed by Tchaikovsky in 1875, the ballet follows Princess Odette after a curse transforms her into a swan. Even if you’ve seen it before, you’re in for a surprise: this version replaces many of the female stars with men. Why? Bourne says: ‘I didn’t see the point in creating a Swan Lake that was similar to others. We needed an idea that could wipe away everyone’s existing memories of the piece. But it’s not an all-male production – the Queen is for a mature dancer who can be dramatic, moving, humorous, glamorous, cold, sensuous and tragic, while the Girlfriend is for a dancing actress with comedic gifts.’

Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (not 20 Dec). Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Band From 1 Dec: Take That’s new musical, with a story by Tim Firth, starts in 1992 where, for five 16-year-old girls, the band is everything. Songs include Never Forget and Back for Good. Please check for times. Tickets £16.50-£107.50. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FACING PAGE: WITNESS FOR THE PROSECUTION COURTESY OF WITNESS FOR THE PROSECUTION; BAT OUT OF HELL © SPECULAR. THIS PAGE: SWAN LAKE © JOHAN PERSSON

Bat Out of Hell This brilliant Meat Loaf jukebox musical is set in the post-apocalyptic world of Obsidian, with motorbikes and flames together with Jim Steinman’s great soundtrack (p. 46). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£150. www.batoutofhell musical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park,, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Caroline, or Change

Dreamgirls This award-winning musical, inspired by the story of The Supremes, follows the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (& 27-28 Dec). www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie

New show by Tony Kushner, set in Louisiana in 1963, where revolution is in the air – but how will it affect Caroline, the maid toiling endlessly in the Gellman household? Please check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.atgtickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. E8. Station: Embankment.

Set on a council estate in northern England, this feel-good musical follows 16-year-old Jamie as he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E8. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Chicago the Musical

42nd Street

Former Blue singer Duncan James plays Billy in this jazz-filled musical. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Circus 1903

A bossy director stages a musical during the Great Depression. Peggy is in the chorus line, but when the leading lady (Bonnie Langford) gets injured, she has her big chance. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hadestown

www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical. co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Please check for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.

Disney’s The Lion King Adaptation of the Disney film, with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Please check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

From 19 Dec: Experience the thrills of a century-old circus at this European premiere (p. 48). The show includes life-sized elephant puppets from the team behind War House, plus acrobats, jugglers and trapeze artists. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£99.50. www.southbankcentre. co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Eurydice is lured to the depths of industrial Hadestown. On a quest to save her, Orpheus travels to the underworld, where their trust is tested. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£67. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Company

Hamilton

Matilda the Musical

This musical follows Bobbie (reimagined as a woman) on her 35th birthday, during which her friends wonder why she hasn’t settled down. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical has been a multi-award-winning hit on Broadway. It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s Founding Father, Alexander Hamilton, an orphaned immigrant who was born in the Caribbean. Please check for times and prices.

Musical based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm (& 28 & 31 Dec). Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

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Motown the Musical Feel-good musical based on the story of the legendary Motown Records, which launched the careers of singers such as Diana Ross and The Supremes and Stevie Wonder. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£175. www.the phantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

School of Rock: The Musical

Snow White From 8 Dec: Dawn French stars in this classic pantomime (p. 50). Please check for times and prices. www.reallyusefultheatres.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate the life and music of Michael Jackson. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina: The Tina Turner Musical A new musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, who went on to become the legendary singer Tina Turner. Hits include What’s Love Got to Do with It? Tickets £10-£149.50. www.tinathe musical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz featuring the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

PLAYS A Very Very Very Dark Matter Fictional story about the author Hans Christian Andersen, who hides a dark secret in his attic, away from the outside world. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£90. www.bridgetheatre.co.uk. Bridge Theatre, 3 Potters Field Park, SE1 2SG. T: 0333-320 0051. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Antony & Cleopatra

The really wild show The puppeteers behind the acclaimed War Horse are returning to London, this time with lifelike elephant puppets in Circus 1903 at the Royal Festival Hall (from 19 Dec; p. 47). This is a European premiere. Ringmaster David Williamson – aka Willy Whipsnade – says: ‘It’s a vintage circus, an old-school show styled like a 1903 Americana circus. We’ve got a man juggling his brother on his toes, a Russian strongman flipping his partner in the air, a contortionist and a high-wire act.’ The stars of the show, however, will be Queenie and her baby, the two elephant puppets operated by people hidden inside.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time

Only Fools: The (Cushty) Dining Experience

This award-winning play follows an autistic boy as he searches for a missing dog. Check for times and prices. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

1-15 Dec: This immersive show is a tribute to the

Don Quixote

much-loved sitcom, Only Fools and Horses. Tickets include a three-course meal. Check for times and prices. www.interactivetheatre.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian Grafton, 30 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 5AY. T: 0845-1544 145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

An eccentric old man heads off on a quest to become a knight, accompanied by his faithful yet equally ill-suited servant. Please check for times. Tickets from £10. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience

War Horse

Comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoes wrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this experience based on the TV comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50£74.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

This moving performance, using amazing puppets, returns to the National Theatre. Check for times and returns. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

This show is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama (p. 46). Please check for times. Tickets £10-£79.50. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Harry works for the Ministry of Magic, but his son struggles with the legacy he never wanted. Check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Ralph Fiennes and Sophie Okonedo play the famous ill-fated couple in this Shakespearean tragedy. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Inheritance

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery

The Mousetrap

Funny play about six crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond. Check for times. Tickets £10£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

A generation after the AIDS crisis, this play explores what it is like to be a gay man in New York. Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Witness for the Prosecution

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 20 Dec: Christmas Classics. 7.30pm. Tickets

£16.50-£42.50. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

CIRCUS 1903 COURTESY OF SOUTHBANK CENTRE

Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical about a teacher who tries to turn his students into rock stars. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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ENTERTAINMENT Cadogan Hall 1 Dec: West End Does: Christmas. Stars of the West

End and Broadway perform songs and carols alongside an orchestra and gospel choir, Sing Gospel. Hosted by Warwick Davis (Star Wars, Harry Potter). Tickets £22-£36. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall. 23-24 Dec: Carols at the Royal Albert Hall. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Festival Hall 2 Dec: The Italian composer and pianist Federico Albanese launches his third album, By the Deep Sea, in the Purcell Room. Expect a meditative sound with piano, synthesizers, Hammond organ and electric, acoustic and bass guitars. 7.45pm. Tickets £15. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 0207381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Once upon a time For a classic British experience, catch a pantomime such as Snow White at the London Palladium (from 8 Dec; p. 48). Pantomimes are comical song and dance affairs based on fairy tales, which feature audience participation and gender swapping. They’re typically staged in winter and are suitable for the whole family. Director Michael Harrison’s Snow White stars comedian Dawn French (right), who makes her pantomime debut as the Wicked Queen. Her co-stars include comic Julian Clary, Paul Zerdin (the ventriloquist who won America’s Got Talent) and Nigel Havers from TV’s Downton Abbey.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Royal Albert Hall 14 Dec: Guy Barker’s Big Band Christmas. 17 Dec: The BT Christmas carol concert. 18 Dec: London Community Gospel Choir at Christmas. 20 Dec: The Snowman and Paddington Bear, live in concert. 28-31 Dec: The Nutcracker. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Jazz Café 3 Dec: A celebration of Cuban music with Omar Puente. 5-6 Dec: Billy Cobham. 10 Dec: A Night of Stevie. 15 Dec: La La Land: The Soundtrack. 23 Dec: The Cuban Brothers. Please check for

times and prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 2 Dec: Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons. 3 Dec: Lauryn Hill. 11 Dec: Mariah Carey. 14 Dec: Madness.

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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

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ENTERTAINMENT Sadler’s Wells

Palace nights Following a £27 million restoration project, Alexandra Palace Theatre officially opens this month. It first opened in 1875, before closing 80 years ago to be used as a chapel, cinema and BBC prop store. This month’s programme is a nod to the venue’s music hall roots. As well as an opening concert (1 Dec), highlights include A Night at the Palace, with comedy, circus and music (2 Dec), then kids’ show Horrible Histories – Horrible Christmas (4-30 Dec). Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0208365 2121. www.theatre.alexandra palace.com. Off map. Station: Wood Green

From 4 Dec: Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake (p. 47). www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA London Coliseum To 5 Dec: Lucia di Lammermoor. (Donizetti). To 7 Dec: War Requiem (Britten). To 22 Feb: La Bohème (Puccini). Check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House To 10 Dec: Simon Boccanegra (Verdi). Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 3-4 & 10-12 Dec: Motown and More. 6-9 Dec: Curtis Stigers. 13-18 Dec: Ray Gelato & The Giants. 19-22 Dec: Fred Wesley & the New JBs! Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

A NEW PLAY BY

SIMON STEPHENS

A Christmas Carol

DANCE London Coliseum 13-30 Dec: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky). www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House From 3 Dec: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky). From 18 Dec: Les Patineurs/Winter Dreams/

The Concert. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

BASED ON THE BEST-SELLING NOVEL BY

MARK HADDON

DIRECTED BY

Charles Dickens’ immortal classic. Please check for times and prices. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Peter Pan From 5 Dec: JM Barrie’s classic tale about a boy who can fly. Suitable for over-fives. Please check for times. Tickets £16.50-£32.50. www.parktheatre. co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.

MARIANNE ELLIOTT

ALEXANDRA PALACE THEATRE © FEILDEN CLEGG BRADLEY STUDIOS

16 Dec: Paul McCartney. 19 Dec: Nile Rodgers & CHIC. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

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ENTERTAINMENT

IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

Don’t miss The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time (p. 48)

Aladdin on Ice 7-10 Dec: A magical retelling of Aladdin on Ice performed by adults and toddlers. Please check for times. Tickets £13-£15.50. www.alexandra palace.com. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 020-8365 2121. Off map. Station: Wood Green, then W3 bus.

Angelo To 30 Dec: Based on a book written by Quentin Blake, Angelo and his family travel the country playing music and performing tricks. Suitable for five to 11-year-olds. Please check for times and prices. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Baby Broadway Christmas 16 & 23 Dec: The whole family can sing and dance along to seasonal shows tunes from hit musicals and Christmas films performed by West End singers and puppets. Listen out for The Sound of Music, Elf, The Snowman and Frozen. Festive fancy dress is encouraged. 11am. Adult £10; child £6. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

“One of the

best things

I’ve ever done”

During the long, cold winter, Mr Penguin carefully guards his egg. Now this new dad needs to look after his newly born chick on his own and he’s not feeling confident. Please check for times and prices. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

The Snowman TripAdvisor Review

Helicopter Sightseeing Tours Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking

Little ones will enjoy this classic tale about a boy becoming friends with a snowman. With music and lyrics by Howard Blake, including Walking in the Air, choreography by Robert North and direction by Bill Alexander. Please check for times. Tickets from £15. www.sadlerswells.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

Wow! It’s Night Time From 7 Dec: The curious little owl is back and this time she’s ready to discover the wonders of night-time. Suitable for ages two to five. Please check for times. Adult £13.50; child £11.50. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

THE CURIOUS INCIDENT OF THE DOG IN THE NIGHT-TIME © BRINKHOFF MÖGENBURG

Huddle

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HHHHH

‘IT IS OUT OF THIS WORLD, IT’S MAGIC, AND IT’S A HIT’ THE TIMES

CHECK DAILY FOR LATE-RELEASE TICKETS

PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter

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WBEI

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Main image: Selfridges Christmas Shop Below: Mick Jagger print from National Portrait Gallery Shop

One-stop shops When I tell my friends that I love shopping in London, they look baffled. It’s true – the capital is busy and often expensive, but if you plan your trip carefully, it can be a rewarding experience. So, forget about Santa’s little helpers and use this guide to make shopping merry not miserable. If you want to survive Christmas shopping, department stores and malls are a gift for customers. It’s amazing to be able to go to one place and shop for everyone. Selfridges is a leader when it comes to personalising gifts – this year, you can add a recipient’s name to Lindt chocolate bears, mix CDs or wrapping paper. It was one of the first stores to open a Christmas shop (it even has a Christmas

pet shop so you can treat your furry friends). Never traditional, this year’s theme is Selfridges Rocks Christmas: expect gifts, decorations and special events inspired by musical heroes. When Westfield London opened a decade ago, it was London’s largest shopping centre. This year it underwent a multi-million-pound refurbishment and became Europe’s largest mall, with an additional 90 shops, cafés and restaurants. It is possible to spend a day here, as there is also a cinema, bowling alley and KidZania, a play centre where children can be dropped off and stay safe while you shop. If you love luxury clothes at discount prices, visit Bicester Village. Located in the heart of rural Oxfordshire, the outlet is a 46-minute train ride from London Marylebone station.

The village also underwent an expansion this year, which saw it gain new brands Roland Mouret, Cos and Emma Bridgewater. Café Wolseley also opened, inspired by The Wolseley on Piccadilly. Here you can enjoy gourmet sandwiches and salads and buy gifts, from truffles to tea sets. As for souvenirs, I highly recommend museum stores: the gift shops at the Victoria and Albert Museum and Tate Modern stock beautiful prints of London by local artists as well as well-known names, while the National Portrait Gallery has plenty of prints of famous faces, ranging from the Queen to Mick Jagger.

MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES; MICK JAGGER PRINT COURTESY OF NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY SHOP

All set for a shopping spree in London this festive season? Kohinoor Sahota gives you her in-the-know hints for getting some great gifts

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas opening hours and closures

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf This is a first-class shopping destination in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s

John Lewis & Partners At this British institution, find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.john lewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty Visit this mock-Tudor building, which is famous for its prints on items from scarves to notebooks. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as great women’s fashion. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP (and branches). T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FASHION

King’s Road

An absolute must for fashion followers, this flagship boutique has a collection of ready-towear clothes, bags and shoes. The label created

This iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Alexander McQueen

the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Banana Republic The flagship store for this American company has men’s and women’s clothes. www.bananarepublic.eu. 224 Regent St, W1B 3BR (and branches). T: 0207758 3550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Browns Formerly a boutique housed on the ground floor of no. 27 since 1970, Browns has expanded through five interconnecting townhouses and is now the place to browse top designer labels. www.browns fashion.com. 24-27 South Molton St, W1K 5RD. T: 020-7514 0016. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Burberry Classic trenches and tartan. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products. www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.

Christian Louboutin Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of red-soled shoes. www.christianlouboutin.com. 17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ (and branches). T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors, including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park

Seven Dials In the heart of Covent Garden are seven streets of boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

LUXURY LOUNGE © GLOBAL BLUE

Hamleys Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Food and meat halls, fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Lounging around If you’ve shopped ’til you’ve dropped, now you can stop at an exclusive Global Blue Luxury Lounge, recently opened in Mayfair by the tax-free shopping firm Global Blue. The 240sqm VIP space, where around 3,500 visitors are expected each month, is open daily to guests who have received a personal invitation from local shops. Benefits include free Wi-Fi, shopping consultants and video displays to give you some inspiration. The lounge is one of seven in the world, joining Paris, Munich, Madrid, Milan, Rome and Venice. 18-19 Albemarle St, W1S 4BB. T: 020-7629 5888. www.globalblue.com

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SHOPPING Gucci One of the most desirable luxury brands in the world, Gucci brings its legendary Italian quality and innovative design to London. www.gucci. com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE (and branches). T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hackett For those who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and corduroys, suiting and plenty of accessories. For those who want to cut an impressive figure around town, seek out the range of delightful classics with a quirky twist. www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY (and branches). T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Icon Outlet New destination for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars. The experience includes personal shoppers, stylists and luggage drops. Please check for opening times. www.iconattheo2. co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0208463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Westfield London This huge mall has more than 450 shops, from high-street names to luxury brands. It is also home to KidZania, where children can play while parents shop. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. This mall has 270 shops, a cinema and casino and outdoor spaces including a playground. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris Couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise and a display of a huge replica Big Ben made from the bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

You are the champion

Queen fans will go gaga in Carnaby Street. The film Bohemian Rhapsody recently took cinemas by storm with its celebration of the band and lead singer Freddie Mercury, and now the street has Christmas lights inspired by the group. Lyrics from Queen’s songs are in lights and a pop-up shop has opened. Gifts for sale include baseball jackets, previously unseen photographs, Freddie-style moustaches and a Queen-inspired version of Monopoly. 3 Carnaby St, W1F 9PB. www.carnaby.co.uk

The East India Company

Twinings

Offering fine food and luxuries made mostly in Britain, this flagship store is the perfect place to pick up a special gift. Experience exquisite delicacies from gold-leaf marmalade to endless blends of tea. www.theeastindiacompanyfine food.com. 7-8 Conduit St, W1S 2XF. T: 020-3205 3385. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading since 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Items also include tea pots. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Japan Centre

We Built This City

Seek out this subterranean shop for matcha, fans, ceramics and food. www.japancentre.com. Please check for opening times. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

London Glassblowing

SPECIALIST STORES

Pick up a beautiful souvenir at Peter Layton’s studio and shop. Book a class to try glassblowing for yourself at the UK’s leading studio and gallery for glass art. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Buckingham Palace Shop

Prestat

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

One of London’s oldest chocolate shops sells hot chocolate, truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Look out for the stuffed pigeons and artworks, including illustrations of London icons and maps. There are also in-house events, such as personalisation services and workshops where you can make your own jewellery and T-shirts. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange This specialist retailer stocks a large selection of fine whiskies, spirits and luxury Champagnes. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

QUEEN POP-UP SHOP © BEN GRUBB

Westfield Stratford City

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Hamleys is one of London’s most famous stores – it is more than 250 years old and is a must-visit for anyone with children. The store has five fun-filled floors, which are packed with gifts for pre-schoolers and teenagers. You (and your kids) will leave with a smile on your face. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0371-704 1977. www.hamleys.com

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch. Post Office: The Plaza, Oxford St, W1D 1LT. 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE. 111 Baker St, W1U 6SG. 32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA. 9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ. For all branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

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Mail Boxes ETC: 72 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7QW. T: 020-7580 9111. 28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825. 95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk Pack & Send: 1 Rockley Rd, W14 0DJ. T: 020-8749 8842.

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OPENING TIMES Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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DINING | THE GUIDE Kaia

Taste of the town People assume I often eat at amazing restaurants and that I couldn’t possibly decide on my favourite. But I don’t often eat at amazing restaurants, because – as every chef and restaurateur knows – it’s really hard to be amazing. I do have some favourites, though, and I’ll share them with you. I first dined at Kaia in September 2017 and, a year later, I still remembered every dish that I’d had. Kaia is one of eight restaurants on the ground floor of The Ned, a five-star hotel near the Bank of England. A former bank itself, the hotel boasts tall ceilings, columns and wooden counters, as well as velvet armchairs, antique rugs and palm plants. Think Titanic meets The Great Gatsby, with jazz musicians often playing in a bandstand. Kaia specialises in poké, a Hawaiian dish that resembles deconstructed sushi in a bowl. Choose from tuna, salmon or avocado, flavoured with mango, pineapple and the Asian citrus fruit, yuzu. You can also order tempura prawns and black cod – and I urge you to! (www.thened.com)

I first ate at Tokimeite in Mayfair in 2015, a month after it opened. I knew before I went that chef Daisuke Hayashi had trained under Yoshihiro Murata – who has seven Michelin stars across three restaurants in Japan – so my expectations were high. They were met. After living in Hiroshima for more than two years, I know an authentic Japanese restaurant when I see one and, with mostly Japanese staff and diners, gold shrine-like lampshades and sake, shochu and whisky menus, Tokimeite feels authentic.

Beck at Brown’s

Its speciality is wagyu beef and modern takes on classic dishes, such as fried lotus root stuffed with prawns. Order several plates, as they’re designed to be shared. One of the highlights was a mouthful of seaweed in peanut sauce. My friend chose it as I’m not a fan of peanuts and yet, three years on, I’m still thinking about it (www.tokimeite.com). Last but not least, in April the three-Michelinstarred chef Heinz Beck opened the Italian Beck at Brown’s in Brown’s Hotel (p. 69). The hotel opened in 1837 and the restaurant still features original 1900s oak panelling, alongside botanical wallpaper, on-trend brass fittings and turquoise velvet banquettes. If it’s on the menu, I always start with burrata: mozzarella which, when cut, oozes cream like a poached egg yolk. But what got me raving was the side of truffle mash and the cacio e pepe which, my waiter explained, is a peasant’s dish made with just three ingredients: pecorino cheese, spaghetti and lashings of black pepper. Sometimes, a chef that doesn’t show off, shows off.

KAIA COURTESY OF THE NED; BECK AT BROWN’S © HOTEL PHOTOGRAPHY

Dining editor Sarah Riches reveals her favourite restaurants

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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas times

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Try Argentine steaks in this upscale restaurant which also has a wine bar, terrace and lounge. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches). T: 0207734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in-house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe This legendary burger joint displays rock memorabilia in a fun environment and serves family-friendly favourites such as jumbo wings and nachos. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB (and Piccadilly Circus branch). T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Jackson + Rye American diner-style dishes are given a French twist. Look out for the weekend brunch and pre-theatre menus. There’s a great cocktail bar, too. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.jacksonrye.com. 56 Wardour St, W1D 4JG (and branches). T: 0207437 8338. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

JW Steakhouse This top-quality steakhouse offers dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sides, sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Sophisticated rotisserie with a grill and wood-fired oven, serving dishes such as suckling pig for two. The views from midway up The Shard are stunning. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. Level 32, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia and an international menu, featuring Asian stir-fries, steaks and sliders. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

BRITISH (MODERN)

NATIVE © HORST FRIEDRICHS

Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine and fantastic views at this restaurant on The Shard’s 31st floor, serving everything from indulgent weekend brunch to dinner. Booking recommended. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Caxton Grill Superb selection of 28-day-aged steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes. There’s also a bar and terrace in a smartly refurbished setting. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Wild card

Native started out in a tiny former surf shop in Covent Garden, serving up foraged British ingredients that were one part sustainable to two parts delicious – a recipe for success. This summer, it moved to this bigger site near London Bridge. Despite the upgrade, it still has a rough-and-ready feel, with minimal furnishings and exposed bricks, but the menu is what counts here. It changes with the seasons and according to availability, but expect creative combinations and unfamiliar ingredients. One of our starters, a deep-fried pastry, was stuffed with vegetable off-cuts and served with a sweet dip, while Yorkshire grouse was paired with sweetcorn purée and black pudding crumbs: it’ll drive you wild. 32 Southwark St, SE1 1TU. T: 07943-934375. www.eatnative.co.uk. E10. Station: London Bridge/Southwark

Darwin Brasserie

Magpie

Dine on level 36 of the Walkie-Talkie as you try burrata, imam bayildi (aubergine) with yoghurt or roasted sea trout. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes. Try the squid with spicy Calabrian sausage, grilled turnip and mussel sauce. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Fenchurch Restaurant

The Montagu Kitchen

This smart brasserie at the top of the Walkie-Talkie building has spectacular views. Try the Cornish mackerel, Isle of Mull scallops or Devonshire lamb. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

This hotel brasserie offers seasonal dishes and weekend brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.london churchill.regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Fera at Claridge’s

Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque and try a glass from the excellent wine list, in a dining room with a whimsical, century-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Art Deco restaurant serving local, organic and British dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Sophie’s Steakhouse

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. The British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

This Soho branch of the popular steakhouse, serving a variety of steaks from its firepit, has an open kitchen and a large, covered terrace at the front. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Holborn Dining Room

St Pancras Brasserie

Smart brasserie next to the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist, plus a seafood counter. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

All-day British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys stpancras.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras. www.wheretraveler.com 63

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DINING Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this superb restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence, plus panoramic views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

VIVI Try seasonal European dishes, afternoon tea or a pre-theatre menu. Glass walls make it great for people-watching. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivi restaurant.co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant, which is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chester fieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 0207491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Café in the Crypt Underneath the church you can dine on homely, good-value dishes. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Cheneston’s Enjoy British cuisine in a classic dining room, with dishes such as pan-seared venison and pot roast Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The English Grill Smart hotel restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubens hotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Palm Court This grand hotel lounge, which has a colonial conservatory vibe, is ideal for afternoon tea. Please check for opening times. ££. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb British cuisine in this plush dining room, complete with chandeliers and a grand piano, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. A jacket and tie are essential. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate, with hearty, meaty dishes including rump steak, rib of beef and game. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast and brunch, plus a late-night menu. Try the eggs Benedict. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

Turkish delight Haringey’s Green Lanes is the go-to area for Turkish cuisine, but for fine dining, visit Rüya off Park Lane, which has branches in Turkey and Dubai’s Grosvenor House Hotel. This new restaurant has geometric tiles, gold oil lamps and rugs, while staff wear white gowns and long shirts. Chef Colin Clague’s menu features wagyu beef and lamb kebabs, chilli barbecue ribs (cooked for 24 hours) and börek: filo parcels stuffed with feta, vegetables and walnuts. Desserts are just as traditional: try watermelon, raki and mint granita with rose jelly, or dark chocolate and salted caramel kibbeh (bulgar wheat parcels) with Turkish coffee cream and cardamom. 30 Upper Grosvenor St, W1K 7PH. T: 020-3848 6710. www.ruyalondon.com. E6. Station: Marble Arch/Hyde Park Corner

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Choose from Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including lobster with noodles and Peking duck, in a sleek setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 0203819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan This fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. Tucked away in an alley, its decor takes styling cues from Shanghai. ££££. Daily L & D; ThurSat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Min Jiang Enjoy park views alongside Sichuan dishes, dim sum and spicy seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Brasserie inside a former bank, featuring a glass dome, serving everything from a full English breakfast to slow-cooked lamb shank. £££. MonFri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay In Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by Europe’s grand cafés, with classic British and Austrian dishes, plus preand post-theatre menus. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Kai Mayfair

Galvin at Windows

Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima wagyu beef and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Michelin-starred cuisine from the Galvin brothers, with views over the park. Set menus include a Bellini Sunday lunch and pre-theatre dinner. Book and dress up. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Mei Ume This plush restaurant serves Chinese and Japanese cuisine, with a menu including sushi and Peking duck. Tall ceilings, big windows and a huge cherry blossom painting make it feel grand. ££££. Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 0203297 3799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

The Ivy This firm favourite on London’s dining scene is loved by celebrities and is known for its upscale comfort food such as shepherd’s pie. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy. co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ (and branches). T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

IMAGE COURTESY OF RÜYA

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)

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DINING Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine in a smart dining room, including sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room shrouded in flowers, with an excellent wine list. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sketch Five restaurants and bars, including the Gallery, a stylish brasserie adorned with art by David Shrigley, serving creative dishes. It also does a quirky afternoon tea. ££££. Daily L & D. www.sketch. uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

GASTROPUBS The Wigmore Enjoy dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by the legendary Michel Roux Jr. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore.co.uk. 15 Langham Place, Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tamarind’s Michelin-starred chef Peter Joseph has launched his first solo restaurant, Kahani, opposite Cadogan Hall. The name translates as ‘story’ in Urdu and the decor is inspired by Hindu storytelling. Seats are sky-blue velvet, henna patterns decorate the tables and wallpaper features meditation hand gestures. An open kitchen overlooks the restaurant, as does a private room for 10 which can be curtained off. It has a separate bar, too. Joseph was brought up in Tamil Nadu in South India, but these dishes come from all over India. Highlights include soft-shell crab and tandoori salmon and prawns, while the smoky dahl is a gem. Desserts are less traditional: try the chilli chocolate mousse. 1 Wilbraham Place, SW1X 9AE. T: 020-7460 1953. www.kahanilondon.com. G5. Station: Sloane Square

OXO Tower

Neptune

This smart restaurant on the Thames is perfect for special occasions and has a wine list of 800+ bottles. ££££. Daily L & D. www.harvey nichols.com. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Taste the seafood platter and oysters in this Grade-II-listed dining room – a place to dress up. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London hotel, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Ting

Poppie’s

In The Shard, dine on European dishes with an Asian influence, and take in jaw-dropping views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Angler Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal produce, such as Dorset crab and roast octopus. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.

Fancy Crab Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab fettucine and a crab burger. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.

J Sheekey Fashionable seafood and oyster restaurant with a Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Traditional fish and chip shop decked out with 1950s memorabilia. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies fishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël

INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists. Dishes might include smoked chilli lamb chops. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares Dine on modern Indian cuisine, such as soft-shell crab and venison, girolles and Padrón pepper biryani. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benares restaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka bar. The seasonal menu might feature Hyderabadi lamb shank or Goan chicken curry. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant serves North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gymkhana Inspired by colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves sophisticated dishes. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.gymkhana london.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Masala Zone

This excellent French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Enjoy street food, thalis and regional curries in vibrant surroundings. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Brasserie Zédel

Mint Leaf

This bustling French brasserie and bar is set in a grand dining room with a high ceiling. Its set menu is excellent value for money. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Contemporary Indian dishes are served in this stylish restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

HONEY-GRILLED BROCCOLI COURTESY OF KAHANI

Spice of life

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK

Time for tea

Britain is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk

THE PARK TOWER KNIGHTSBRIDGE

This hotel, set within a grand Victorian redbrick mansion near Sloane Square, is home to a drawing room decorated with gold-framed paintings and armchairs you can sink into. Tuck into a crayfish and avocado roll, a cheddar and onion tart and a Coronation chicken sandwich, followed by scones and pastries which include apple and blackberry pavlova and pear and almond cheesecake. You can also eat in Hans’ Bar & Grill. 11 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 7000. www.gofortea. com/11cadogangardens

This hotel’s afternoon tea is influenced by the scents of fragrance expert Rachel Vosper. Dishes here come with a twist, from the Scottish smoked salmon, seaweed and yuzu mayonnaise on black rye bread to scones with cranberries and chestnut marmalade. Pastries include a mint chocolate one with vanilla sponge, lime base and gold leaf; and a white chocolate mousse dome with orange blossom honey and caramelised orange tuile. Finish with tea or hot chocolate by Rococo Chocolates. 101 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RN. T: 0207235 8050. www.gofortea.com/parktower

OON TE RN A TE

I LDRE N ’ S

ARDS AW

BES T

OON TE RN A TE

2 WIN0 1 8 NER

ARDS AW

2 WIN0 1 8 NER

EMPORA

FORTNUM & MASON

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

ROSEWOOD LONDON

Kids will love this tea, as Fortnum & Mason won best children’s afternoon tea in the 2018 Afternoon Tea Awards. Suitable for four-to-10 year olds, it has traditional sandwiches such as egg mayonnaise, cucumber, and cheese and pickle, mini scones, and sweets including apple cake, Jammie Dodgers biscuits and meringue with berry compote. Your children can sip child-friendly ‘Champagne’, hot chocolate or milk as a pianist plays jazz. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 020-7734 8040. www.gofortea.com/fortnum&mason

Commended in the 2018 Afternoon Tea Awards, the Royal Albert Hall afternoon tea is served in Verdi on the first floor, which overlooks the Royal College of Music. Its new Racing Green menu tells the story of the history of afternoon tea and matches the olive-green banquettes. Enjoy sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam and sweet treats, including a cake with edible piano keys. Some sittings feature live opera for an extra treat. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 3203. www.gofortea.com/royalalberthall

This Pop Art tea, served in the hotel’s Mirror Room, scooped the best contemporary category in the 2018 Afternoon Tea Awards. Executive pastry chef Mark Perkins serves sandwiches on basil and onion bread, scones and six pastries inspired by artists such as Roy Lichtenstein. The vanilla and white chocolate mousse topped with cherry jelly resembles Andy Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Cans, while a green tea and yuzu cake has a polka-dot case inspired by Yayoi Kusama’s work. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8620. www.gofortea.com/rosewood

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES

Non-traditionalists should visit the café at celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s hotel, Nobu Hotel London Shoreditch, which has a palette of grey and Japanese screens. Its new festive tea begins with a tofu bun with truffle tofu cream, and snow crab tempura with ikura (salmon caviar) on a fluffy shokupan bun. Sweets include a coconut snowball, a Santa Claus whisky macaron, a gingerbread sphere and a zingy snowflake yuzu tart. 10-50 Willow St, EC2A 4BH. T: 020-7683 1200. www.gofortea.com/nobu

11 CADOGAN GARDENS

NOBU HOTEL LONDON SHOREDITCH

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DINING Tamarind Try authentic, Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelinstarred, has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six-hour cooked lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day-aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini, and Sunday roasts. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

SushiSamba A fusion of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine, served in a restaurant with city views. Open until late. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY (and Covent Garden branch). T: 0203640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

The Terrace This hotel restaurant and bar, above Charing Cross Station, dates back 150 years and has an opulent setting. Choose from sandwiches, salads, burgers, Italian dishes and small plates. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

ITALIAN Ask Italian This pizza and pasta joint opposite Paddington Station is a friendly spot and the food is fantastic. You can also eat in its sunny conservatory. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian.co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.

THE ENGLISH GRILL English Tradition, Dining and Design at its Finest

Beck at Brown’s Three-Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck is behind this Italian (p. 62). Its delicious burrata, truffle mash and cheesy spaghetti with lime-marinated langoustines will make you want to return. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.roccofortehotels.com. Brown’s Hotel, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4004. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

The English Gri

Bocca di Lupo Simple, homely restaurant serving regional Italian cuisine, such as chicken scallopini with girolles and tagliatelle with duck ragú. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.boccadilupo.com. 12 Archer St, W1D 7BB. T: 020-7734 2223. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Cicchetti All-day dining venue with Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.san carlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Rubens at The Palace

39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS Telephone: +44 (0)20 7834 6600 | rubenshotel.com

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DINING Mayfair Pizza Co.

Ginza Onodera

Bright, airy restaurant where you can watch the chefs in the open-plan kitchen work a rustic pizza oven. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfairpizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Hidden in a sleek space in Mayfair, this restaurant serves top-notch sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onodera-group.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on delicious stone-baked pizzas and salad or sit down to afternoon tea before a concert in this iconic Victorian music venue. Check for Free Friday Music and its delicious afternoon teas. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table in a theatrical experience: they flip ingredients, catch some in their hats, shout and tap their utensils to a beat. Try the wagyu beef and hibachi prawns. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Nobu London This is the first European restaurant from renowned chef Nobu Matsuhisa, serving sashimi and sushi, plus lobster wasabi pepper. Booking essential. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB (and branches). T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece grill serves Japanese ’robatayaki’ cuisine (cooked over fire). £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com. 30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF (and branches). T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakagura london.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa

Tokimeite

This traditional Japanese restaurant, which is set in a quiet courtyard, has tasting menus, and excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Enjoy superior cuisine with dishes such as fried lotus root stuffed with prawns, plus an extensive sake, shochu and whisky menu. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.tokimeite.com. 23 Conduit St, W1S 2XS. T: 020-3826 4411. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

W H E R E

L O N D O N

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysée This family-run restaurant, which opened in 1936, serves traditional Greek dishes such as keftedes and dolmades. It has a roof garden and shisha lounge. £££. Daily D; Mon-Fri & Sun L. www.elysee restaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with authentic Moroccan decor, serving mezze mains such as duck couscous and lamb tagine. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi Inventive, Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi is served in an informal communal area, as well as the dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Yasmeen Enjoy authentic Lebanese and Moroccan cuisine including excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat, wraps and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea is in partnership with Whittard of Chelsea. Go on a journey through the history of afternoon tea, from its advent in 1840 by the Duchess of Bedford through to the present day. The tea comes with sandwiches and desserts from throughout history. The menu includes finger sandwiches filled with classic and contemporary delights such as Coronation chicken, a sandwich created in 1953 specifically for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. The luxurious five-star hotel boasts panoramic views over Chelsea Harbour Marina and the River Thames. The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea costs £28 per person, or £38 with a glass of Champagne.

El Pirata For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic: the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans such as Brian May and Johnny Depp, as well as food critics, are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000. www.millenniumhotels.com

EL PIRATA COURTESY OF EL PIRATA; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF THE CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL

The Chelsea Harbour Hotel

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DINING Yosma Dine on Turkish cuisine in the heart of London at this bright, informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish and meat dishes from the Josper grill. Excellent cocktails at the bar. £££. Daily L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s iconic sights as you embark on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine – a unique London experience. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.

The London Showboat Dining cruises including a two-course lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz – check its many options for day and evening cruises. £££££££. Booking essential. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving British cuisine. Set menu includes pan-seared salmon and corn-fed chicken breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen

Japanese style Arty types have another reason to visit Kensington, as a new Japanese restaurant near The Design Museum has opened which prioritises presentation as much as taste. Akira, on the top floor of Japan House London cultural centre, has minimal decor – black metal lattice screens and handmade wooden furniture, with a tatami room for private dining. The menu offers small dishes, such as wagyu beef with truffle, or crab and cream croquettes followed by smoked eel tartare and rice prepared in a donabe (clay pot). The restaurant also has a robata (charcoal grill), so save space for skewers of chargrilled wagyu beef, chicken, seafood or vegetables, served on a hot stone. Japan House, 101 Kensington High St, W8 5SA. T: 020-3971 4646. www.japanhouseakira.london. Off map. Station: Kensington High Street

Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in Debenhams department store and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen. There’s also a Champagne bar. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

SPANISH

VEGETARIAN

House of Ho

El Pirata

The Gate

Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional, authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Try the spiced lamb chops, a bowl of hearty, traditional seafood pho or crispy silken tofu with chilli and garlic. ££. Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

This lively Mayfair restaurant has been serving hot and cold tapas for nearly 25 years. Try the prawns in olive oil, pimentos and wild mushrooms, or the deep-fried medallions of monkfish. The good-value set menu takes some of the hassle out of choosing. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The latest branch of the well-known veggie restaurant, with Indian and Middle Eastern influences, serving dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mango Tree

This fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes such Ibérica as tom ka and grilled beef in a spicy Traditional Spanish dishes and tapas sauce. The set menu is an excellent are given a modern twist, though way to try a variety of dishes. £££. there are classics including paella, Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. jamón Ibérico, artisan cheeses and London has 10 bars, 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. bocadillos, too. The bar menu including Dandelyan T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria. features Spanish pinchos (tiny

Rosa’s Thai Café

and Swift, on this year’s The World’s 50 Best Bars list

AKIRA COURTESY OF AKIRA

At this informal, lively venue you can enjoy dishes from papaya salad to spicy drunken noodles. There are also special coeliac and vegetarian menus. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches). T: 020-7287 9617. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Thai Pot This much-loved restaurant has been established for 20 years. From its huge, varied menu, try the stir-fried beef and Massaman curry, or a set meal from £13.50. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

tapas) to nibble while you drink. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.iberica

restaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant, which serves seasonal dishes such as wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh, pork belly with Tempranillo, pine nuts and raisins, and pork belly with caramelised quince. Next door is Morito, a snug, informal venue with tapas and mezze from the same chefs. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. C9. Station: Farringdon.

Mildreds This informal Soho institution has hearty meatfree dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie and Vietnamese mock duck. Good fruit-based cocktails also. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds. co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India, from authentic street food to South Indian dosas (pancakes), tandoori vegetables and paneer, and thalis. There’s also a gluten-free menu. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE Iris

The Coral Room

Raise the bar With an estimated 5,500 bars in London, picking my top three is no easy task. But a few stand out from the crowd and Helix & Iris is one of them. Helix is a restaurant on the 39th floor of the Gherkin, while Iris is a bar on the 40th. Designed by Norman Foster, the tower has a transparent roof with 360-degree views of the city. Once a members’ bar, Iris threw open its doors to the public in July. When I visited, I sat by the edge to make the most of the sunset views over Tower Bridge, the Thames, City Hall and the summit of The Shard. Iris serves London-inspired cocktails including Kew Gardens and Jack the Ripper, which is made with vodka, beetroot and Worcester sauce. I opted for Ladywell, named after a part of south London that features on 15th-century maps. Made with overproof and El Dorado rums, nutmeg syrup, guava, lime and passion fruit, it sounded intense but the balance was just right. So right, in fact, I ordered two… (www.searcysatthegherkin.co.uk). While Iris is one of London’s highest bars, Cahoots is one of its lowest, beneath Kingly Court off Carnaby Street. I’m a big fan of ‘speakeasies’ – bars that are

hidden from view and often disguised as something else altogether, just as bars in the States during Prohibition would have been. Why am I fan? Because they’re fun. You get to drink and have an experience at the same time. Cahoots transports you to the 1940s. The stairs resemble a Tube escalator, while the bar is decorated with sandbags, old radios and a whole Tube carriage. Wartime recordings play, dancers swing to a 1940s band and singalongs take place around an old piano. On a recent visit, I browsed cocktails such as the Blitz Blackout and Drambuster printed Cahoots

Mr Fogg’s Society of Exploration

on newspaper and ordered a Turning Over a New Leaf: Bombay Sapphire gin infused with lapsang souchong-smoked tea, Chambord black raspberry liqueur, lemon and sugar, topped with whisked egg whites. Some of the drinks are served in hip flasks, milk bottles or battered tin mugs (www.cahoots-london.com). While Cahoots is fun, The Coral Room is glam. The bar opened in November 2017 on the ground floor of The Bloomsbury London hotel. The Grade-II listed hotel bar has original features such as tall ceilings and enormous windows, as well as palms, Murano glass chandeliers, framed illustrations and – of course – coral-coloured walls, which make it feel like a vintage boudoir. If you’re feeling social, take a seat at the marble-topped bar; I prefer the corner with the Art Deco velvet sofa. I ordered a Wiltshire Warrior, made with Sipsmith vodka, sparkling wine, lime and agave, which is topped with frozen melon balls, and shared dishes (which are generous) with my companion – try the smoked salmon and crème fraîche on Guinness bread (www.thecoralroom.co.uk).

IRIS © EMILY WHITING; THE CORAL ROOM © SIMON BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY; CAHOOTS COURTESY OF CAHOOTS

From skyscraper bars to underground ‘speakeasies’, Sarah Riches shares her favourite night-time spots

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81). Check for Christmas times

TRADITIONAL PUBS

Waxy’s Little Sister

City Garden Bar

This is the smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to the huge Waxy O’Connor’s, which serves traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus a range of great bar food including mutton pot stew with dumplings. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This impressive bar, on the open-air roof terrace of the Walkie-Talkie building, takes some beating: it has amazing views over the capital, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Cittie of Yorke

BARS & CLUBS

The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade-II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Back Room

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery)

Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, its bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hard rock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 0207514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery, and also offers tours and courses. It’s tucked away down an alleyway. www.cityoflondondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

The Dog and Duck

Booking Office Bar

Dukes Bar

The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 0207236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This charming 17th-century pub is a real step back in time. It boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music and mobile phones are discouraged. www.frenchhouse soho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar. www.bookingoffice bar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Cartizze Bar Cocktail destination majoring in timeless luxury and known for its Bellinis. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Camino At this dedicated Cava venue, you can enjoy tapas sharing platters. www.cava.co.uk. The Regent Quarter, 3 Varnishers Yard, N1 9FD (and branches). T: 020-7125 0930. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same name, renowned for its superior Martinis. Oozing old-world charm, its lounge area is a comforting, luxurious space. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.

Fitz’s This bar is about as classic as it gets – think bookshelves, velvet shell-shaped sofas and paintings hung on wood panelling. There’s a cheeky mirror ball, too. It’s a great place for a date. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The George Inn This tucked-away historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. Outside seating during summer. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

OLD COMPTON BRASSERIE COURTESY OF OLD COMPTON BRASSERIE

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, this site pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.

Waxy O’Connor’s Popular, long-standing Irish bar, with four bars split over six levels. It has regular live music, hearty pub food and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Swingin’ Soho Old Compton Brasserie has opened in a prized spot in Soho and its interiors don’t let you forget it. Local street artists have decorated the interior with ripped posters and Pop Art-style paintings of Twiggy and Kate Moss, set against brick walls, pipes and tiles. The drinks menu is also influenced by the bar’s location. Mixologist Matt Whiley – the man behind Talented Mr Fox and Peg + Patriot – has created the Ronnie Scott, a short cocktail made with Courvoisier VS, Macallan, agave and chocolate bitters, which is named after the legendary jazz bar nearby; while the Regina Fong – a reference to a female impersonator from Soho’s 1960s gay scene – is served in a disco ball and topped with black pear foam. 34-36 Old Compton St, W1D 4TT. T: 020-7434 2214. www.oldcomptonbrasserie.co.uk. D7. Station: Leicester Square www.wheretraveler.com 73

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NIGHTLIFE Freedom

Oriole

This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub below. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Featured on The World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2017, this spacious cocktail bar is below Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues music. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Gong Located on level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. www.theshard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit stonearched basement. Try to go early to grab a table as it can get very busy. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.

Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. www.primobar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 0207620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmarks. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar

Jack Solomons Club

This basement ‘speakeasy’ bar in Soho is accessed This elegant bar is named after satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the by a hidden entrance and boasts old-school caricatures of the iconic British figures that line glamour. Ring a bell in the kiosk to be granted the walls. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood entry to this venue, which is inspired London hotel, 252 High Holborn, by the legendary boxer and promoter WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. Jack Solomons. 41 Great Windmill St, D8. Station: Holborn. W1D 7LU. www.jacksolomons.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Five of London’s

L’escale Wine Bar

Underground stations are named after pubs, including Angel and Swiss Cottage

Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Try a sharing board of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Looking Glass Cocktail Club Enter a giant glass into a dimly lit room that is decorated with Louis XVI-inspired furniture. This ‘speakeasy’ has regular DJs, live music and performances. 49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 0207613 3936. www.lookingglasslondon.co.uk. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and a beautiful 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this exclusive cocktail bar in Mayfair, which is home to exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mews ofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse and located in a back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16A New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar, serving eccentic cocktails and upscale bar bites including dim sum. Reservations recommended. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

St Pancras Champagne Bar

Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the graceful station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. A recent refurbishment introduced heated leather banquettes and a call button to summon a refill. There’s a fabulous selection of bubbly, plus seafood platters at this Searcys outlet. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Six Storeys As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels, offering everything from bottomless brunch to fine wines and a 50-strong cocktail list. Each floor is quirkily decorated in a bohemian style. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Social 24 The smart bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibition-inspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

The Vault The tiny, specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcase, is a speakeasy with cosy arches. Ideal for a winter evening to try specialist drinks. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this lounge, with eccentric decor incorporating leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. The bar is part of a hotel of the same name. www.thezettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular venue in the West End houses a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino Massive West End venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live music. www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy the poker lounge, sports bar, informal dining and elegant restaurant. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves Americanstyle food such as Buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabungalondon.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton, Neil Mullarkey and Josie Lawrence, while it also hosts late-night stand-up events. www.thecomedy store.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy music together, and makes jazz music more accessible for new audiences. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club, established by the late Peter Stringfellow, is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Up to 70 Angels dance nightly on four stages. You can also dine in the five-star steak restaurant and visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE Hershesons

Simply the best So many spas in London claim to take you away from the hustle and bustle of the city, but few do it as effortlessly as the Bamford Haybarn Spa. A favourite with fashionistas, the spa in The Berkeley hotel brings a chic slice of the Cotswolds to the capital (p. 77). I love the rooftop pool. Once, after work, I even managed to have this gem all to myself. What it lacks in size – it’s only 10m long – it makes up for with its postcard-worthy views of Hyde Park. Try the Bamford Body Signature Treatment. Lasting 90 minutes – long enough for you to truly relax – it includes a full body massage. The spa’s approach to its treatments is what sets it apart. ‘I have always wanted to transport the essence of those natural surroundings to an urban setting, so I am delighted to be finally bringing that vision to life,’ says Carole Bamford, who founded the first one in the Cotswolds. Recently, the brand opened a branch in South Kensington’s Brompton Cross, with treatment rooms and a dedicated yoga space. If you prefer a medical approach to your treatments, ESPA Life at Corinthia is for you. What I love about this spa is that it is not afraid

to change its menu to reflect new research. In many luxury hotels, spas are an afterthought, but this is a world-renowned destination spa. There are experts on Chinese medicine as well as osteopaths and personal trainers. I visited this spa while I was suffering from insomnia, as it had just worked with sleep expert Dr Guy Meadows. If you are suffering from jet lag, try the Sleep Ritual: lasting two hours, it includes a massage with hot stones, as well as breathing and visualisation exercises. The sleep pods – where you are encouraged to unwind – are like something out of a sciencefiction film (www.espalifeatcorinthia.com). Whenever I go to a formal event, from a wedding to an awards show, I get my hair done at Hershesons (p. 77). Founders Daniel and Luke were pioneers in rolling out their blow-dry bars, which you can find in Topshop and Selfridges. This year they opened a flagship store in Fitzrovia, which is a multipurpose venue with waxing, nail treatments and a café. In each of the blow-dry bars you’ll find a ‘menu’ that includes 12 looks, from the Big and Brushed Eighties style to the Super

ESPA Life at Corinthia

Bamford Haybarn Spa

Straight Nineties; my favourites are Wavy Gravy and Smooth Wavy. They offer a quick (and often affordable) way of getting your hair styled. While you can walk into the bars, it’s best to book in advance – especially for evening slots. When you are there, you will spot women who are dressed for a night out. In fact, part of the fun is just seeing the stylists create their works of art. Your hair quickly comes to life: I’m no longer a nine-to-five office worker, but a red-carpet goddess. I loved Hershesons so much, I went back again and again...

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE SPAS

It’s party season, so you’ve got a great excuse to enjoy a spot of pampering. Kohinoor Sahota picks the best spas and salons in the capital

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas hours

SPAS

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold Age Defying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two. Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Bamford Haybarn Spa

The Spa at Dolphin Square

Aveda Institute

First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch (p. 76). Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, the spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for Brides and Hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualiﬁed female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven. The menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Ushvani This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture, and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese Massage, which incorporates natural herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Late appointments available

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

INDIAN MASSAGE SERVICE Body massage Indian head massage OUTCALLS TO HOTELS AND APARTMENTS

Call Yasmeena 0798 515 8877

Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Modrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Signature treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

At this trendy hairdressers, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it (p. 76). www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches). indian massage ad.indd 1 T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

One Aldwych

Jo Hansford

This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a shaving lesson. Also at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Hershesons

This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

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INSPIRING LONDON’S VISITORS

Windle & Moodie Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards

Concierges in the city use Where London for information. Here they share their top tips for your travels

Beach ‘Pennapa’ Bannister Daniel Bearham Michal Beneda Assistant head concierge Concierge at Four Seasons Head concierge at Park Hotel Hampshire Plaza London Waterloo at St Pancras Renaissance What’s your most popular request? ‘How long before my Eurostar departure do I need to be at the station?’ We are the only hotel in London that provides an escorted service from our chamber suites to the train. Share a strange request. A guest wanted to shoot partridge in August. As an environmentalist, I said that it’s wiser and cheaper to shoot clay pigeons in Hampshire. Why is your hotel special? The building was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1873 and masterfully restored in 2011. How can you spend a day? After breakfast at Dishoom King’s Cross, cycle along the canal to Camden’s markets. Go to Little Venice and dine aboard London Shell Co, visit Kensington Palace for afternoon tea at The Orangery, then watch a concert at the Royal Albert Hall.

What’s your most popular request? Questions about horse riding, clay pigeon shooting, falconry and Christmas dining options in the English countryside. Share a strange request. A guest enquired about purchasing a Labrador puppy to fly back home to the Middle East. That was a fun task! Why is your hotel special? The hotel is a country home dating back to 1086, where King Henry VIII met his wife Catherine of Aragon in 1501. It’s in the countryside, making it the perfect getaway. It’s also child- and pet-friendly. Any romantic ideas? Cruise along Basingstoke Canal with a picnic on our hotel’s canal boat. Share a quintessential English experience. Visit Farnham, a pretty Georgian market town.

London Shell Co

Hamleys

Tell us popular requests. Guests ask for Where London and Where London maps, the Warner Bros. Studio Tour and Hyde Park Winter Wonderland. Share a strange request. During the 2010 Icelandic volcano eruption, I was asked to reroute a trip home to Mexico via Denmark, Germany and Norway. The guest thanked me with a bottle of tequila. Why is your hotel special? Our restaurant Florentine is known for its unique dishes, such as an ostrich egg. How can you spend a day? Stroll the South Bank to Borough Market and walk over Tower Bridge to the Tower of London. Visit Leadenhall Market and head to St Paul’s Cathedral, then go to the Houses of Parliament. Any family-friendly ideas? Visit Father Christmas’s grotto in Harrods or Hamleys. St Paul’s Cathedral

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

LONDON SHELL CO © LONDON SHELL CO/THE PRINCE REGENT; HAMLEYS BEAR © HAMLEYS; ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © ISTOCK; CONCIERGE IMAGES COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE HOTELS

AT YOUR SERVICE

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ESSENTIALS

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Brondesbury Park

Willesden Junction

Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park

Paddington

Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush

White City

Shepherd’s Bush Market

Stamford Brook

Ravenscourt Park

West Kensington

High Street Kensington

Green Park

Gloucester Road

Earl’s Court

Goodge Street

Victoria

Hoxton

Charing Cross

Liverpool Street

Bank

Aldgate East

Stepney Green

Whitechapel

Aldgate

Cannon Street Monument

Tower Gateway Rotherhithe

Bermondsey

Canada Water

West Brompton

Parsons Green

Surrey Quays

River Thames

Step-free access from street to platform

Bakerloo

Vauxhall

East Putney

Canning Town

District

Hammersmith & City

Custom House for ExCeL

Blackwall East India

Emirates Royal Docks

Heron Quays

North Greenwich

Elephant & Castle

Jubilee

Metropolitan

Prince Regent Royal Albert

West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

New Cross Gate

Northern

Victoria

Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V 17/E/3249/P

Greenwich New Cross

Brockley

Piccadilly

Beckton Park

London City Airport

Mudchute

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham

Circle

Royal Victoria

Island Gardens

Borough

Southfields

Central

Star Lane

Langdon Park

Canary Wharf

Lambeth North

Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train

East Ham Upton Park

Crossharbour

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Upney Barking

West Ham

Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road

South Quay Waterloo Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway

Stratford

West India Quay

Wapping

River Thames

London Bridge

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate Maryland

Abbey Road

Westferry Poplar

Limehouse

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Embankment

Pudding Mill Lane

All Saints Shadwell

Blackfriars Temple

Westminster

Bow Church

St. Paul’s

Hornchurch

Plaistow

Moorgate Chancery Lane

Ilford Manor Park

Becontree

Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Upminster Bridge

Seven Kings

Wanstead Park

Stratford High Street

Cambridge Heath

Old Street

Covent Garden

St. James’s Park

Homerton London Fields

Haggerston

Farringdon

Leicester Mansion Square House

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

South Kensington

Holborn

Tottenham Court Road

Knightsbridge

Barons Court

Hammersmith

Regent’s Park

Marble Arch

Dalston Junction

Angel Euston Square Russell Square

Queensway

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Bayswater Oxford Circus

Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

River services

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Correct at time of going to print

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours, and the first 30 mins of travel are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl. gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines

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WHERE NOW | MATTHEW BALL

My Perfect Day Richmond Park

Rules

Covent Garden

MATTHEW BALL

What are your favourite buildings? I like the way London is a hodgepodge – a rich tapestry. I love the Natural History Museum and The Royal Horseguards Hotel on the Embankment, which are fairy-tale, classical buildings.

What’s your favourite museum or gallery? The Victoria and Albert Museum is gorgeous. I love the way it is so diverse: you don’t just go there to see art, as it’s also got fashion and theatre galleries. The entrance alone is full of fantastic chandeliers, marble statues and Asian ceramics.

Where do you like shopping? I’m not the biggest fan of generic shops that are the same in every city; I tend to go to antique markets where you might find something unique or special, or come across a bargain.

What is your favourite green space? Richmond Park, as I grew up there. I came to London when I was 11 and until 16, I was living in the middle of Richmond Park at the Royal Ballet School. I like Battersea Park, too.

Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you? Covent Garden is very special as that’s where I came to school at a young age. I got to perform on the stage there and I’m still working there now. I remember it nostalgically. As you walk through Covent Garden Market, everything seems so vivid and intense and it’s great to be part of it all.

Natural History Museum

How do you prefer to travel around the capital?

How does London stand out from the rest of the world?

I like taking the bus for the views – whenever I go on the Underground, I feel that I just pop up somewhere.

It’s such a diverse city. The multicultural side to it keeps everything fresh and exciting. There are so many influences everywhere and new places are invigorated by all types of people. It’s an open city that’s easy to explore, so you can find the right place for you to become who you want to be, which is not possible everywhere. London has an incredible mix of history and forward thinking which allows you to learn and grow.

Where is your favourite place in London to have dinner? I like Rules [London’ oldest restaurant, which was established in 1798 and serves classic English dishes] in Maiden Lane in Covent Garden. And A Wong, a Chinese restaurant in Pimlico, is wonderful. It does a great tasting menu that’s a culinary journey around China, with tastes from all the different regions. It’s a lovely experience, not just a meal.

What would be your perfect evening’s entertainment? I love going to the theatre to watch dance, but after a long day of dancing it can be a bit much, so I prefer seeing a play, ay, then taking a walk along the South Bank afterwards. I saw The Height of the Storm at Wyndham’s Theatre recently; it starred Jonathan Pryce and Eileen Atkins and was such a simple, well-acted and stunning production.

Why should people see your show? Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake is a beautiful, powerful reimagining of the classic ballet, which everyone knows or has an idea of what it will be like. This has a different take – all the men play the swans; it still offers magic and fantasy but in a more realistic, visceral way. It’s a spectacular performance, it’s powerful and moving. You don’t always get to see the sensitive yet strong side of men. Working with Matthew was exciting. He appreciated my work and gave me suggestions and ideas about the role, of which I already had my own opinions. He was very helpful by adding to that and improving it. Swan Lake. From 4 Dec. Sadler’s Wells, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. www.sadlerswells.com

RICHMOND PARK, NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM AND BUS © ISTOCK; MATTHEW BALL © JOHAN PERSSON; RULES COURTESY OF RULES; COVENT GARDEN © COVENT GARDEN MARKET

BALLET DANCER Matthew Ball is the principal dancer for the Royal Ballet. He plays the Swan in Matthew Bourne’s version of the winter classic Swan Lake, which is being staged at Sadler’s Wells from 4 December

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