GUIDE TO LONDON ®
JANUARY 2019
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
SEC S RET A gu IGHT S id
LITERARY LEGEND Jacqueline Wilson’s London hotspots
bars e to hid ,m de and useums n show s
STARS IN YOUR EYES
Celebrities taking over our dining scene
JOIN THE
PARADE Where to watch the greatest show on earth
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SHOPPING
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CONTENTS
COVER: LONDON’S NEW YEAR’S DAY PARADE IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON’S NEW YEAR’S DAY PARADE; ADDITIONAL IMAGES © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: CIRQUE DU SOLEIL COURTESY OF CIRQUE DU SOLEIL; JACQUELINE WILSON © JAMES JORDAN; ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © JAMES JORDAN
JANUARY
FEATURES
LISTINGS
6 WHERE NOW The biggest festivals and events taking place this month, from the NBA Global Games to the Scottish celebrations on Burns Night.
22 SIGHTSEEING See iconic sights including the Cutty Sark as it marks 150 years, and stargaze at the Royal Observatory.
64 NIGHTLIFE If you enjoy a speakeasy bar, then you’ll love these hidden bars, from Jack Solomons Club to The Luggage Room.
10 STARS IN YOUR EYES What do Idris Elba, Usain Bolt and Enrique Iglesias have in common? They are all celebrities opening restaurants in London.
38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Visit once unknown spaces, from the Churchill War Rooms to tunnels in the London Underground.
68 SPAS & SALONS Face the future with a facial – here are the latest innovations, including a gym that specialises in workouts for your face.
14 HIDDEN TALENT Discover unsung heroes in the capital, from the woman who created the pinnacle of The Shard to a much-loved street sweeper.
44 ENTERTAINMENT Secret Cinema and The Vaults: here are shows you need to know about.
70 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced hotel concierges share their helpful tips on how to make the most of your time in London.
18 JOIN THE PARADE From marching bands to cheerleaders, here’s what to see at London’s New Year’s Day Parade. 74 MY PERFECT DAY The children’s author Jacqueline Wilson shares her favourite London spots.
52 SHOPPING Shop off the beaten track at pop-up shops, sample sales and designer outlets. 56 DINING Discover little-known but brilliant restaurants that are hidden away behind dark doors and alleyways.
72 MAP A useful map of central London to help you on your travels. See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
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SECRICEETS SARAH RICHES CHO I love the café in Green Rooms, an arty hotel by Wood Green Tube near Alexandra Palace. It has lampshades, rocking chairs, sofas and rugs.
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HAPPY NEW YEAR Most cities are quiet in January. London, however, is not one of them. In fact, on New Year’s Day, when most of the world is curled up in bed, we have a parade marching its way through the streets. Watch cheerleaders, brass bands and acrobats from across the globe welcome in 2019 at the London’s New Year’s Day Parade (p. 18). London is home to many celebrities, so it’s no surprise to find that famous faces are choosing this as a place to launch their dining ventures. Proving that London is a global city, Cristiano Ronaldo, Usain Bolt and Mark Wahlberg are just some of the names opening restaurants here (p. 10). Everyone loves a secret. We’ve created a special issue that is all about hidden places, including Secret Cinema, a bar tucked away beneath a takeaway shop and the bunkers Sir Winston Churchill stayed in during World War II. Just don’t tell anyone. Jacqueline Wilson is a literary legend. The children’s writer is a firm favourite among the editorial team, so much so that when we found out we’d secured an interview with her, we couldn’t contain our excitement. Find out her top places to eat, drink and be merry in the city (p. 74). As it’s a new year, we also have a new look – we are thrilled to share with you our new design. Please get in touch and let us know what you think about it!
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London
PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE
Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon
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This January you can watch the NBA Global Games bounce into town, discover the new London Borough of Culture and try Scottish haggis
INTO LONDON THEATRE 1 JAN- GET No trip to London is complete without a West End show. 15 FEB Get into London Theatre season has ticket prices from just £10 for musicals, plays, dance and opera. Long-running shows, from The Lion King to Les Misérables, are also on offer. www.solt.com
27 JAN
HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL DAY
London stands united with communities around the world on Holocaust Memorial Day, an event that now remembers victims of global genocides. The date marks the liberation of the Nazi concentration camp Auschwitz-Birkenau, while 2019 marks 25 years since the Rwandan genocide. The Jewish Museum in Camden hosts survivors at its own Holocaust Memorial Day event (24 Jan). www.hmd.org.uk 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I J A N UA R Y 2019
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
17 JAN
NBA Global Games
The O2 continues the tradition of hosting the annual NBA Global Games, showcasing a league match with two basketball teams: the Washington Wizards taking on the New York Knicks. This is the ninth consecutive year of the NBA London Game, and what a success story it’s been, playing to sold-out venues and bringing together fans from all over the world, as well as building a growing fan base in the UK. www.theo2.co.uk
25 JAN
BURNS NIGHT
Five years after the death of the Scottish poet Robert Burns in 1796, a group of friends hosted a dinner at his cottage to honour his memory. Little did they know that this would start a global tradition. Celebrate the poet’s life and works at one of the capital’s Scottish restaurants, such as Mac & Wild or the neighbourhood restaurant, Irvin Bar Grill. It’s a great time to enjoy a traditional dish such as haggis with a wee dram of Scottish whisky, along with recitals of Burns’ best-known works. We’ll say ‘slainte’ to that. www.macandwild.com; www.irvinbargrill.com
ALL Waltham Forest YEAR The first London Borough of Culture is Waltham Forest, so there’s never been a better time to visit. This yearlong initiative, endorsed by the Mayor of London (far right), will make the area bubble with excitement. The first event is a ‘Welcome to the Forest’ party (11-13 Jan). According to creative director Sam Hunt: ‘It will be the biggest party Waltham Forest has ever seen.’ www.wfculture19.co.uk
13 -20
DAFABET MASTERS
The world’s top 16 snooker players take to the baize at Alexandra Palace. This tournament has a rich history dating back to 1975: it’s one of the most popular events in the calendar and is the only snooker tournament held in the capital. Fans of Ronnie O’Sullivan (above) will doubtless be raucous, while China’s top player Ding Junhui hopes that he can grab the title from last year’s winner, Northern Ireland’s Mark Allen. www.worldsnooker.com
JAN
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JAN
Catherine Tate Show
Meet hilarious characters, from Irish nurse Bernie to Geordie Georgie, in the Catherine Tate Show Live at Wyndham’s Theatre. The British comedian is best known for her character Lauren the Teenager, who was miserable about everything and had the catchphrase ‘Am I bovvered?’. These dates follow a sold-out tour of Australia and New Zealand. www.wyndhamstheatre.co.uk
LONDON 9 JAN- INTERNATIONAL 3 FEB MIME FESTIVAL
Whoever said that silence is golden could have been talking about the London International Mime Festival. This annual event presents fascinating theatrical pieces, from shadow puppetry to circus, with companies from around the world including New Zealand, Norway and Spain. There are ice puppeteers from Théâtre de l’Entrouvert, dancing and juggling by Gandini Juggling, and a look at the inner reaches of the human body with Intronauts. www.mimelondon.com
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JANUARY 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
Banish your hangover at the spectacular London’s New Year’s Day Parade Watch the dazzling all-male troupe Briefs in Leicester Square’s Spiegeltent Take an exclusive guided tour of Buckingham Palace’s State Rooms Sing along to Steinman’s classic tracks at Bat Out of Hell the Musical Prolong the festive spirit at Hyde Park Winter Wonderland, ending tomorrow See the contrasting four Turner Prize finalists at Tate Britain – it finishes today Have a laugh with Dawn French, as she stars in the pantomime Snow White Learn about the Russians and royalty at The Queen’s Gallery Russia exhibition Try to stay on your feet for the final week of Somerset House’s ice-skating rink Watch the Bach Brandenburg Concertos by candlelight at St Martin-in-the-Fields Gaze at the stars through a huge Victorian telescope at the Royal Observatory Head back to earliest mankind with Cirque du Soleil’s Totem at the Royal Albert Hall Get a special insight into Chelsea FC on a Legends Tour, led by a former player Enter the Gothic chapel at Windsor Castle, where Harry and Meghan married Be entranced by the classic festive ballet The Nutcracker, at the Royal Opera House Watch Marlowe’s Doctor Faustus in the candlelit Sam Wanamaker Playhouse Try for a ticket to see the multi-awardwinning American musical, Hamilton See royal treasures inside the new galleries at Westminster Abbey Gaze at London’s landmarks from a hop-on, hop-off Thames Clipper boat See plastinated internal organs to discover how they work at Body Worlds Take a self-guided tour of Arsenal FC and see the office of new boss Unai Emery Watch Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake, with an all-male troupe, at Sadler’s Wells Tate Modern’s Pierre Bonnard exhibition brings colour to the Bankside gallery Discover how style and nature mix at the V&A’s exhibition, Fashioned by Nature See if the love between Eurydice and Orpheus can survive in Hadestown Snow Patrol perform at The O2, 20 years after their debut album Visit Hogwarts in the Snow, a wintery display at Warner Bros. Studio Tour Fall in love with the family favourite, The Lion King, with astounding sets Enter the players’ dressing rooms and tunnel at Wembley on a stadium tour Take a creepy Jack the Ripper tour through Whitechapel, led by an expert Watch women get revenge on their sexist boss in the new 9 to 5 the Musical
Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com
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STARS in your eyes What do Usain Bolt, Idris Elba and Enrique Iglesias have in common? They are all opening restaurants in London. Sarah Riches looks at the capital’s VIP dining destinations
Ever since Zela launched in 2017 in the south of Ibiza, celebrities have flocked to try its Mediterranean-Japanese cuisine and cocktails. Now, the singer Iglesias, tennis player Nadal and footballer Ronaldo have teamed up with Spanish entrepreneurs Manuel Campos Guallar and Abel Matutes to open a branch in ME London hotel on the Strand. Like the original, it fuses Mediterranean fish with Japanese techniques. As Japan is also known as Nippon, this cuisine has been dubbed ‘Meppon’. Ronaldo says: ‘Zela is one of my favourite Asian restaurants in the world; I go there with my friends and family whenever I am in Ibiza and I’m delighted to open it in London. The blend of Mediterranean and Japanese cuisine, with familiar flavours and a fresh and healthy touch, really matches my lifestyle.’ Chef Ricardo Sanz, who has four restaurants with a Michelin star, is Zela London’s gastronomic director, while the venue is managed by Francesco Sica from Coya in Mayfair. Diego Gronda’s studio – which also designed Zela Ibiza and for Gordon Ramsay, Grand Hyatt and St Regis – created the 100-seat restaurant with an open kitchen and bar. It’s decorated with Spanish floor tiles, bamboo furniture and palm-print walls. Like the Ibiza branch, it blooms with real plants and bursts with light from arched windows. But at night, the lights dim as a DJ spins Ibizan beats. Dishes are served on Japanese ceramics. Small plates include salmon poké with mango and avocado; garlic prawn gyoza and signature dishes such as usuzukuri toro pa amb tomaquet. Co-founder Guallar
explains: ‘Usuzukuri toro pa amb tomaquet is inspired by traditional Spanish tomato bread. Slices of tuna belly sashimi are topped with grated tomato, olive oil and breadcrumbs. For me, this dish epitomises Meppon cuisine.’ Mains include egg-fried rice with truffle; tuna teriyaki with rice noodles and teriyaki Wagyu, cooked for 48 hours – Guallar’s favourite. Got a sweet tooth? The cocktails also balance Mediterranean and Asian ingredients, so opt for the Yuzu Lemon Pie. There’s a selection of Spanish wines and sakes, too. Even if you don’t bump into Ronaldo, Iglesias or Nadal, you might spot a familiar face – Whoopi Goldberg, former Blue singer Duncan James and Chicago star Alexandra Burke have dined here. www.melondonhotel.com
ZELA INTERIOR COURTESY OF ZELA LONDON; USAIN BOLT COURTESY
Cristiano Ronaldo, Enrique Iglesias and Rafael Nadal
From left: Ronaldo, Nadal and Iglesias This image: Zela
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Usain outside Tracks & Records
Usain Bolt
ZELA INTERIOR COURTESY OF ZELA LONDON; USAIN BOLT COURTESY OF TRACKS & RECORDS; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ALAMY
DONNIE AND MARK WAHLBERG
The actor Mark Wahlberg – best known for his roles in Boogie Nights and Ted – is launching a branch of his US burger chain Donnie Wahlburgers in Covent Garden. Scheduled to open this year, the twostorey restaurant is a joint venture between Mark, his brother Donnie from New Kids on the Block and their brother Paul, who is executive chef. This branch joins the 22 other restaurants in the US, which feature in a reality TV series. Aimed at families, it will have a casual vibe and walls decorated with photos of the siblings throughout their lives. Mark will attend the launch, but if you miss him, you can still interact with him – as he and Donnie will be available to chat to diners via huge screens. www.coventgarden.london/ restaurants/wahlburgers
Mark
The former professional sprinter Usain Bolt – a nine-time Olympic gold medallist – has turned his attention to Tracks & Records, a new restaurant opposite Liverpool Street Station. The branches in Jamaica are decorated with signed trainers and T-shirts and murals of the runner striking his signature thunderbolt pose and dressed in the colours of the Jamaican flag. Starters include jerk chicken, saltfish fritters and plantain chips with barbecue jerk pork sausage, roast corn salsa, Pepper Jack cheese and chipotle sauce – which you can enjoy to a background of reggae music. Bigger dishes include coconut and cassava shrimp in a sweet-and-sour pineapple sauce; jerk-grilled shrimp; red pea, beef and coconut soup, and curried mutton served with mango chutney and coconut rice. If you still have space, opt for a Jamaican bread pudding with coconut rum sauce and vanilla ice cream, or a warm rum cake with rum and raisin ice cream, flambé bananas and caramelised nuts. Cocktails rock a Caribbean vibe, too. Opt for a frozen margarita; One Love, a mix of coconut rum, pineapple and Curacao, or the aptly named Finish Line (Long Island Iced Tea). www.tracksandrecords.com w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 11
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WHERE NOW | STAR RESTAURANTS
The Parrot
The Golden Globewinning actor and DJ Idris Elba has opened The Parrot, a cocktail bar and live music venue in the 111-year-old Waldorf Live music at Hilton London. The Parrot The project is a joint venture with co-founder Lee Caulfield, Idris a Hollywood ‘fixer’ who books restaurants, bars and holidays for celebrities, plus Lee’s identical twin brother Nicky, a musical theatre drummer. The 60-seat venue features tropical decor designed by up-and-coming designers Anna Wudkowska and Marika Mierzejewska – so expect banana leaf wallpaper, Entrepreneur Flavio Briatore, who made his name with Benetton, birdcages and emerald scallop tiles. Formula One and Cipriani in Mayfair, is launching Crazy Pizza in While primarily a cocktail bar – with drinks Marylebone. Briatore is also behind Crazy Fish Monte Carlo and Flavio inspired by 15 breeds of parrot – the hotel’s Crazy Fish Dubai, both of which are popular with celebrities. executive chef, Karl Richardson, has created small plates. But the main reason to visit is for its nightly entertainment, which sees Guy Ritchie’s pub The Lukin in Fitzrovia closed in 2018 and is set to be renamed a five-piece house cover band of West End The Lore of the Land when it reopens as a gastropub this year. His former pub, stars take to the stage. The Punchbowl, was popular with David Beckham and Leonardo If you make it on to the guest list, expect DiCaprio – so if you’ve got a plaster cast that needs signing, you to mingle with A-listers – the launch was might be in luck. The Lore of the Land will serve ‘farm to fork’ attended by Matthew McConaughey, food made from scratch and sourced from local and sustainable Woody Harrelson, Benedict Cumberbatch, artisan farmers, butchers, fishmongers, cheesemakers Liam Payne, Professor Green and British and bakers. Some ingredients will come from Ritchie’s Vogue editor Edward Enninful. Ashgrove Farm on his estate in Wiltshire. Ritchie also owns Even if you don’t spot a celeb, you can a microbrewery, the Gritchie Brewing Company. You can still feel like one – the bar does own a sample a pint in The Lore of the Land! chauffeur-driven Aston Martin, after all. Guy www.theparrotldn.co.uk
COMING SOON Crazy Pizza
The Lore of the Land
THE PARROT IMAGES © CATCH52; IDRIS ELBA, FLAVIO BRIATORE AND GUY RITCHIE © ALAMY
Idris Elba
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Hidden From the selfless acts of a Crimean War nurse to the dedicated service of a much-loved street sweeper, Kathryn Conway shines a spotlight on London’s unsung heroes
W
hile the stories of London’s most celebrated names will always command attention, the city is full of compelling tales of ordinary Londoners doing extraordinary things. In some cases, the light of these inspiring individuals has remained hidden under a bushel for centuries, records of their good deeds only recently emerging from the annals of history. Here, we pay tribute to some of the capital’s secret stars.
ROMA AGRAWAL
For those who’ve spent many an hour admiring the mighty 310-metres tall edifice that is The Shard, we have one woman in particular to thank for it being here at all. Roma Agrawal, an award-winning structural engineer, was responsible for designing the foundations of the building as well as its spire. ‘If you go up to the viewing gallery and look at the exposed steel at the pinnacle, this is where you can really see the skill of the architect and engineer working together,’ says Roma. The skyscraper’s construction presented many challenges, particularly given its location next to London Bridge Station, one of the capital’s busiest transport hubs. However, the innovative use of top-down construction, which saw the team start on the ground floor, building The Shard’s concrete core upwards at the same time as excavating downwards to create the foundations, helped reduce the construction time by three months. Roma now works at engineering company AECOM and has published a book entitled Built: The Hidden Stories Behind our Structures.
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SECRET STARS | WHERE NOW
ADA LOVELACE
JULIE BERRY
As a youngster, Ada Lovelace is said to have pored over journals and, after studying the anatomy of birds, mused on what powered flight might look like by conceiving an idea for a steam-powered winged machine. Later, Ada would veer into gambling and alleged adultery, but she also became one of the pioneers of computing. It was her notes on Charles Babbage’s plans for an Analytical Engine (she predicted that a machine might be used to compose music and graphics) and her suggestion that Babbage write a plan for how the engine might calculate Bernoulli numbers that mark her out as an exceptionally gifted mind. Ada prophesised the computer age before it arrived and she is celebrated with a Blue Plaque in St James’s Square.
ROMA AGRAWAL © GARY DOAK/ALAMY; THE SHARD AND MIND THE GAP © ISTOCK; ADA LOVELACE © COLPORT/ALAMY; DOROTHY BOHM COURTESY OF DOROTHY BOHM; CHILDREN PLAYING IN HAIFA, ISRAEL, 1959 © DOROTHY BOHM
For any visitor who takes the Piccadilly line into central London from Heathrow Airport, their journey will be accompanied by the dulcet tones of a woman telling them to ‘please mind the gap between the train and the platform’. Julie Berry has been the voice of the Piccadilly line since the 1980s, her recordings used to announce a train’s arrival at a station and inform passengers of the next and final destination of the service. Her voice pops up in all sorts of other places, often catching Julie unawares. ‘I once had a friend who was working with The Royal Ballet and he gave me and a friend a backstage tour of the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden. I got a bit of a surprise when I heard my voice in one of the backstage lifts as we went up to the canteen,’ she says. ‘I had to chuckle to myself.’
DOROTHY BOHM
Siting in the study of her Hampstead home surrounded by albums of as-yet-unseen images of the city, Dorothy Bohm declares: ‘I think I have photographed London more than any other photographer.’ Leaving Lithuania aged just 14 to escape the rising threat of Nazism, Dorothy’s father handed her his Leica camera as she boarded the train, saying that ‘it might be useful’ one day. His prophetic words spawned a career that has spanned 75 years and, at 94, Dorothy is still delighting audiences with her work. Currently, it is her photographs of children that are attracting attention thanks to Little Happenings: Photographs of Children, an exhibition taking place at the V&A Museum of Childhood (to 17 Mar). Dorothy’s images capture fleeting moments in life, but her considered eye ensures that, as she says, ‘I do not press the shutter unless I think something is worth taking.’
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WHERE NOW | SECRET STARS
FRIEND SAMUEL PENNEY
When construction work on Tower Bridge began in 1886, perhaps one of the bravest people contracted to the project was Friend Samuel Penney. He led the team of divers who levelled the bed of the River Thames and dug out the foundations for the massive concrete piers on which the bridge’s two towers stand. This dangerous work saw caissons – large wrought iron boxes (12 for each pier) – sunk to a depth of approximately 6.5 metres and filled with concrete, before being clad with granite brickwork above water level. A commemorative bronze plaque has recently been unveiled in Tower Bridge’s South Tower in acknowledgement of Friend’s bravery.
Notting Hill Carnival can trace its roots back to a woman with an important cause. Claudia Jones arrived in London in 1955 having been deported from the US for her involvement in Communist Party USA. Horrified by the hostility, Claudia became a pivotal figure in the British Civil Rights movement and founded the West Indian Gazette in 1958, pioneering the black press. When the White Defence League and racist gangs began attacking London’s black community, Claudia’s unconventional approach was to showcase Afro-Caribbean culture. Her Caribbean Carnival was held at St Pancras Town Hall in 1959 and was followed by other events. Many say these laid the groundwork for Rhaune Laslett-O’Brien to start the Notting Hill Carnival in 1965. Blue Plaques honouring them are on Tavistock Road.
DAVID SQUIRES
Keeping the streets of this bustling city clean and tidy can be a thankless task. For one man however, his local community was so grateful for the years of service he dedicated to sweeping its streets that he was honoured with a permanent tribute. David Squires was known for his positive outlook and community spirit, so when he passed away in 2009 following a long illness, Southbank Mosaics was commissioned to create a portrait of him. It can still be seen on the wall outside the Waterloo Action Centre.
TOWER BRIDGE © ISTOCK; CLAUDIA JONES © ALAMY; MOSAIC © ROBERT LORDAN
CLAUDIA JONES & RHAUNE LASLETTO’BRIEN
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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H
THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com
CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU
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LONDON’S
NYD PARADE Emma Levine finds out how you can see the greatest show on earth
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PARADE | WHERE NOW
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ondon’s New Year’s Day Parade has been greeting each new year in style for years, with a divine mix of pomp and pageantry, brilliant costumes, multicoloured inflatables and marching bands – all wrapped up in a glorious sparkle of celebration. Join the many thousands on the streets of London to cheer on the performers at this joyous event to start your 2019 with a flourish at the biggest and best parade in its lengthy history.
LNYDP in numbers An estimated 500,000 people watch the parade on the streets More than 8,000 performers More than 20 London boroughs take part
Showcasing the world This year’s theme,, London Welcomes the World,, is appropriate for the world’s most diverse and inclusive city, which people from more than 270 different countries call home. ‘This will be a celebration like no other,’ exclaims LNYDP executive director Bob Bone, who devised this parade back in 1987. ‘London has always welcomed the world. London is open for business!’ To celebrate our city’s own global culture, performers in the parade include the London-based Kimbanguist Brass Band, which has its roots in the Congo, and students from the London School of Dhol, who beat this riotously upbeat Indian drum with gusto. If you see a band wearing kilts and playing the bagpipes, you’d assume they are from Scotland, but in fact these are the Shree Muktajeevan Swamibapa Pipe Band, from a Hindu temple right here in the capital.
Battle of the boroughs In a city as eclectic as London, where each borough has its own character and identity, it’s fitting that many participate in a LNYDP Borough Competition, which has been running since 1997. All London boroughs can submit entries to the parade. ‘London boroughs have been massive supporters of the parade throughout our 34-year history, and we will give them a platform to show their proud heritage and kaleidoscopic cultural make-up,’ explains Bone. Those voted in the top 10 by judges and the public share a prize of £50,000 – more than £2m has been raised for London charities.
IMAGES © LNYDP AND MATT SPRAKE/MSP
Global stars It’s not only home-grown talent that’s on show – the parade has a history of attracting entertainment troupes of all ages from around the world. Look out for the awardwinning Robert E Fitch High School Marching Band from Connecticut, which performs at all home American football games. Names this year include Kaleb Lee, a country and western singer who last year was a semi-finalist on the US TV series The Voice and appeared on American Idol, and has been described as a superstar in the making. Malaysian magician
Broadcast to 600 TV channels around the world £1bn – the estimated amount that the parade has benefited London’s economy Andrew Lee, who wowed the judges on Britain’s Got Talent last summer, is set to wow the parade with his mystical skills, where everyone will wonder: ‘How did he do that?’
On the starting grid For the first time on the streets of the West End is a driverless, fully autonomous car leading the parade. The ground-breaking vehicle has been granted special permission to head down Piccadilly, along Lower Regent Street and Trafalgar Square, before ending up in Parliament Square. ‘This is an historic moment – the future of transport arrives in London on 1 January 2019,’ proclaims Bone.
Full of hot air Floating above performers and spectators are dozens of giant, bespoke LNYDP balloons, created specially each year by the team at Megaflatables. A giant bandsman balloon represents the marching bands from the world who have taken part here over the years, while the London black taxi balloon and telephone box balloon represent two of the city’s best-loved icons. Created for this year’s parade, the LNYDP globe balloon is covered with the flags from around the world – proving that London really does welcome the world.
Where to watch Those lucky enough to buy a Grandstand ticket can take up great viewing positions, including ones at Whitehall and Piccadilly. But for the many thousands of others, rest assured that you can find a great spot along the route where you’re just as close to the action – best of all it won’t cost you a penny. This really is the best event that money can’t buy. www.lnydp.com w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 19
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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS
The Water-Lily Pond mini umbrella National Gallery Shop, £22, Trafalgar Square, WC2H 0HE
Fulton’s Summer Sales umbrella London Transport Museum Shop, £19, Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB
Morris & Co Minor Lily Birdcage umbrella James Smith & Sons Umbrellas, £28.95, Hazelwood House, 53 New Oxford St, WC1A 1BL
Gifts for a
London Undercover checked canopy maple wood-handle umbrella Liberty, £75, Regent St, W1B 5AH
Even if there are showers, with these umbrellas you’ll be singing – and dancing – in the rain
Pencil umbrella with spaniel handle James Smith & Sons Umbrellas, £95, Hazelwood House, 53 New Oxford St, WC1A 1BL
Fulton Brollymap umbrella Selfridges, £18, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB
London Icons tiny umbrella Cath Kidston, £24, 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE STOCKISTS
Cats & Flowers minilite umbrella Cath Kidston, £26, 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER
RAINY DAY
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Woven silk train for an evening dress, France or Britain, c. 1897–1905. Image Vee Speers © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
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SIGHTSEEING SIGHTSEEING
Changing the Guard
Apsley House The home of the Duke of Wellington, which is known as ‘No. 1 London’, has grand interiors and fine art. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Please check for times and prices. www.arcelor mittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House
Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, who during the course of the ceremony becomes the Queen’s Guard, march to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
Cutty Sark Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper, located in Greenwich (p. 25). Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day. Check for events throughout the year celebrating the ship’s 150th birthday. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available; book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 Cutty Sark travelled the 6000. E8. Station: Westminster. equivalent of two and
DID YOU KNOW?
Dennis Severs’ House
Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs, with audio and visual surprises. 10 rooms, from the cellar a half voyages to the to the attic, illustrate the life of The British Library moon and back a family of Huguenot silk weavers The world’s largest library boasts during the 17th to 19th centuries. a great permanent collection as well Check for times; silent and candlelit tours. as a diverse programme of temporary Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. exhibitions. To 19 Feb: Anglo-Saxon Kingdoms: 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Art, Word, War. Ancient British manuscripts dating Station: Liverpool Street. between the fifth century and 1066, including the Domesday Book and Codex Amiantinus, a huge Dr Johnson’s House copy of the Bible created by English monks in Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first 716 AD. To 24 Feb: PG Wodehouse: The Man and English dictionary, published in 1755, in this His Work. Using both famous and lesser-known 18th-century period home. Please check for works, this display traces the British author’s staged performances, talks and tours. Current creative development. Daily, please check for exhibition, Curious Travellers: Dr Johnson and times. Admission free; charges for tours, some Thomas Pennant on Tour, explores how Johnson exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, and his contemporary Pennant toured Scotland NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s and Wales to become pioneers of the travelCross St Pancras. writing genre. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. Buckingham Palace www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, The London residence and principal workplace EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: of the monarchy has 775 rooms. Normally closed Temple/Chancery Lane. to the public, it is possible to tour the State Rooms and garden during the summer opening, Eltham Palace & Gardens plus there are occasional private tours. Experience the decade of decadence as you are The Changing the Guard ceremony, during which transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of one regiment takes over from another to protect Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, the Queen and the palace, takes place in the make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. forecourt on most mornings from 10.45am; check Palace & gardens Sun 10am-4pm; adult £15; online for the full schedule. www.royalcollection. child £9. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. org.uk. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham. 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
HIDDEN GEMS Some of London’s sightseeing secrets are in plain sight. Think it’s tricky to have a special experience in the Houses of Parliament? Think again: tours take place every Saturday (and 2-4 Jan), but you can also book afternoon tea on Saturdays (from 12 Jan), which is served in rooms overlooking the Thames. You can also beat the queues by watching
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
OUR
ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © GRAHAM LACDAO/ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL
SECRE T CHOIC E Parliament in progress – for free. If either House (Commons or Lords) is in session during the evening, the Ayrton light shines from the top of the Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben) and you’re free to enter. The tower is currently covered in scaffolding and safety lights, so pick out the substitute Ayrton lights right at the very top (p. 24). The Old Bailey (the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales) is also more accessible than people realise. It’s a public building, so you’re free to watch trials. Bring ID and pack light: bags, electronic devices, food and drink aren’t allowed (www.cityoflondon.gov.uk).
Just around the corner, the triforium at St Paul’s Cathedral (p. 31; above) awaits: this is the cathedral’s gallery above the nave, and is only accessible on the Triforium Tour (7 & 29 Jan). Look behind the scenes of the upper level and see the Geometric Staircase, filmed for Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. A secret alleyway dedicated to artists lies beneath 18th-century landmark Somerset House (p. 40). This passageway, Maker Street, is a community of art studios. You can discover more on a free, 45-minute Somerset House Studios tour, on the third Saturday of every month (19 Jan).
The Barbican (p. 42) cultural centre is a hulking monument to concrete, which also has London’s second-biggest conservatory, which houses more than 2,000 types of plant. Entry is free on Sunday afternoons. Buckingham Palace (p. 22) is not only open during the summer. Join an Exclusive Guided Tour, which can be booked for Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons. It’s a princely £85, but numbers are limited to 30 and you’ll receive a glass of Champagne and a guide book. Look out for the disguised Queen’s door in the White Drawing Room, giving secret access between her private rooms and the State Apartments. www.wheretraveler.com 23
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SIGHTSEEING Fulham Palace
Handel & Hendrix in London
The Jewel Tower
This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now, it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and a programme of themed tours. Please check for times. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
The former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handel hendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Go Ape Alexandra Palace There’s a treetop obstacle course for children with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Daily; please check online for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.
Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Daily; check online for time and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. General admission Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm; Sat-Sun noon-4pm; garden daily 10am-4pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15.30; child £7.65. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace (p. 22). Tours Wed-Fri (to 4 Jan) and every Sat. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. Please check for entry and tour times. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Kensington Palace This royal residence was Princess Diana’s last residence. To 17 Feb: Diana: Her Fashion Story. See outfits worn by the ‘people’s princess’. To 6 Jan: Victoria Revealed. Learn about Queen Victoria’s life. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and a fantastic art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Daily 10am-4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
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SIGHTSEEING
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Sail away this month
Cutty Sark was built to last for 30 years. You can multiply that by five this year, as one of London’s best-loved ships reaches its 150th birthday. The fastest tea clipper of its time, not even a fire in 2007 could slay the mighty Cutty Sark (p. 22), which became an even better tourist attraction as a result: now, you can walk directly beneath the elevated hull, protected from the elements by a handsome glass encasement. There won’t be a dull moment on board this year, thanks to a packed calendar of events devised to celebrate its milestone birthday.
CUTTY SARK © JOSHUA AKIN
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NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor
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SIGHTSEEING Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge and potentially get inspiration for a future career. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early years area means that younger siblings will have fun too, and there are occasional adult evenings. Please check opening times and prices. www.kidzania. co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
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Starry night
During An Evening with the Stars (11-12 & 25-26 Jan), which takes place inside the Peter Harrison Planetarium, you will see the 18-tonne Great Equatorial Telescope. Taking place at the Royal Observatory (p. 30) in Greenwich, you are invited to look up to the stars through the telescope’s massive lens, while each two-hour session includes a planetarium show, The Sky Tonight. This is led by an astronomer who explains that evening’s sky in real-time. Space cadets can pose their cosmic questions to the experts in attendance, while there’s also a chance to step outside to see the Meridian Line and absorb the view over Greenwich and the Thames.
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Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the treetop walkway offers great views. Don’t miss the Temperate House, which is the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world and has reopened following a five-year refurbishment. To 5 Jan: Christmas at Kew. The gardens’ annual illuminations festival features more than one million tiny lights, laser-beam displays and the sculptural Fire Garden. You can keep warm with spiced cider, mulled wine, hot chocolate, roasted chestnuts and toasted marshmallows. Please check for times. Adult £13.50, child £4.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
For a different view of London take the River Bus
PETER HARRISON PLANETARIUM © ROYAL MUSEUMS GREENWICH
Buy online or pay as you go using Oyster or Contactless from £4.10 Departures every 20 minutes from major London piers mbnathamesclippers.com
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SIGHTSEEING The London Bridge Experience & Tombs
UNDER THE BRIDGE
An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site, where special effects and actors bring this spine-tingling attraction to life. Tickets include admission to the London Tombs, which are under the bridge and located in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
It’s one of the most recognisable landmarks in the world, but how many people can say that they’ve been inside it? Join the Behindthe-Scenes tour of Tower Bridge. Available on weekends (to Feb 28; p. 31), these personal guided walks explore much of the structure: you’ll go in the towers, into the Victorian engine rooms and under the River Thames, inside massive chambers that are usually closed to the public.
The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and even smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you, thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, CocaCola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and prices. www.the dungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels, where you can spot sights for many miles from your pod. Don’t miss the 4D cinematic experience. Share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.
ZSL London Zoo
Madame Tussauds
Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, an enclosure with Asiatic lions and endangered Sumatran tigers. Check for regular feeding times. To 1 Jan: Christmas at ZSL London. Follow a mile-long illuminated path. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Camel Chat, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £22.73; child £17.73. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film, or the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. C6. Station: Baker Street.
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Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039
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SIGHTSEEING The Monument
Old Royal Naval College
This stone column in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed guides. The Visitor Centre has a museum about Greenwich. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, including ICON, an all-new designer brand shopping outlet, as well as the latest trampoline park from Oxygen Freejumping. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Please check the website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free.
THE STATE ROOMS BUCKINGHAM PALACE
www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Royal Institution of Great Britain This Grade I-listed Georgian building houses a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum, and watch scientists at work. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Royal Observatory Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world. Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have completely changed how we live (p. 26). Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Discounted online tickets. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
SEA LIFE London One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a beautiful glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.
St Katharine Docks
Enjoy an Exclusive Guided Tour of the magnificent State Rooms at Buckingham Palace
This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. A vibrant waterside destination, it’s lined with regular markets, shops, The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Dokke, Bravas Tapas, Zizzi and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Visit the iconic Royal Albert Hall (p. 34)
www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7300
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Available on selected dates 21 December 2018 – 3 February 2019 Pre-booking is highly recommended
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SIGHTSEEING St Martin-in-the-Fields
Up at The O2
Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and art exhibitions. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Please check for concerts, jazz evenings and recitals in the church. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-inthe-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Experience an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2, wearing a harness. From the platform at the top gaze at 360-degree views, including the Thames and Canary Wharf. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
St Paul’s Cathedral
Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault used to protect the Queen’s treasures. Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, it’s home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia from around the world, all previously owned by famous musicians. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm.
Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics on its domes (p. 27). Climb up to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its glorious monuments to Sir Christopher Wren and Lord Nelson. Tickets include a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 0207246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
The Vault
Admission free. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Alternatively, make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco; £37.50, book online. Please check for times. Advance adult £27.20, child £21.25; on the day adult £32, child £25. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE
18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his family and servants, who all resided here from 1875. Check for the costumed actor tours, every Saturday from 11am, to ‘meet’ Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop in 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames (p. 28). Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. In the past it has been a prison, armoury and even a zoo. Enjoy free guided tours by uniformed ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). To 6 Jan: Tower of London Ice Rink. Take to the ice in the moat next to the boundary wall (check for skate times and prices). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; SunMon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Includes Russia, Royalty and the Romanovs and Roger Fenton’s Photographs of the Crimea, 1855
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SIGHTSEEING Warner Bros. Studio Tour London
Wellington Arch
Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can see iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. To 27 Jan: Hogwarts in the Snow. See the Great Hall dressed for the Yule Ball and the Hogwarts model coated in snow, then take a behind-the-scenes look at the various types of snow that were created for filming. Please check for times. Adult £43, child £35. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and the Houses of Parliament, plus regular exhibition. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Last year, the
abbey unveiled a new tower that leads to The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, the new exhibition space tells the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. Please check for times and prices. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Hyde Park Winter Wonderland To 6 Jan: At this huge winter festival, enjoy a Bavarian market, traditional fairground and big wheel, plus the UK’s biggest outdoor ice-skating rink. There are children’s shows and comedy acts, too. Daily 10am-10pm. Free admission; advance tickets for selected shows. www.hydepark winterwonderland.com. Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
RIVER TRIPS
WINDSOR CASTLE
City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
WINDSOR
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. E8. Station: Waterloo.
MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes, from 22 piers. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to pinpoint your location. River Roamer hop-on and off advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90; children under five travel free. Adult single journeys from £4.80. www.mbna thamesclippers.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7001 2200.
Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10.20am-3pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11.20am-4pm. Check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
HOME OF THE
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ROYAL WEDDING
Thamesjet Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience on a speedboat. This is the most extreme ride on the river, and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Westminster.
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SIGHTSEEING
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. Full walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require booking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.
Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of opentop double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Adult £37; child £19. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.
Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jackthe-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.
Kia Oval Tours Tour the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches (May-Sep). See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check
for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.
The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tours. Prices start from £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus. Daily 10.30am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There is even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capital taxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and several City gardens, all within London’s historic Square Mile. Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.
SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience. Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from the capital to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets are available. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES
VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION. 02514
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours
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SIGHTSEEING London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
Original London Sightseeing Walk 90-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the
Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 0208877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and
a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. Winter Offer: all 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets extended by 24 hours for free until 28 Feb. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall, with a strong royal history. There is also a Behind the Scenes Tour, to see areas of the venue usually closed to the public. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £14; child £7. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Royal Opera House This is one of the world’s leading opera venues; it’s home to The Royal Ballet company and has recently completed a refurbishment . A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium, the Royal Retiring Room and backstage as the Opera House prepares for that evening’s performance. Backstage Tour, most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, £12-£15; Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour, selected days 4pm; Covent Garden Legends and Landmarks Tour, selected days noon & 2pm, £10-£15. www.roh.org.uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.see londonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park. This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a separate, candlelit performance space. The half-hour tour begins every 30 minutes, after which you may browse the Globe’s exhibition. Daily 9.30am-5pm; exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK
Shakespeare’s Globe
Visit Westminster Abbey, consecrated in 1065 (p. 32)
Tours available year round Book online or call us on +44 20 7219 4114
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SIGHTSEEING The Charterhouse
Hampton Court Palace
Hever Castle and Gardens
Dating back to 1348, The Charterhouse was a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. It has only been open to the public since 2017 and now contains a fascinating museum about its history, while visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny, curious chapel. Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site. Please check for times and prices. www.the charterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.
Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this magnificent Tudor palace and 300-yearold maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the huge Tudor kitchens, where 200 cooks would have prepared food for the royal household, then see Henry’s grand state apartments including the Great Hall (which is also a theatre), adorned with a huge and impressive tapestry. To 6 Jan: Ice Rink. Glide around the ice in a spectacular setting at this annual event. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of King Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors. Outside, the castle’s gardens feature statues and a lake. Please check for times. Adult £17.25; child £9.75. www.hever castle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge.
The London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains are brought to life through an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Discover more than 600 objects left by the very first Londoners, as well as modern art on the ground floor, at Bloomberg SPACE. Please check for times. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.
Twizy Tours Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by an entertaining, GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent an adorable Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. Prices from £29.99 per tour. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Leeds Castle This fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle has a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre
Three domes. Five floors. And Europe’s greatest crypt. See an other side of St Paul’s.
Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last up to two hours in either a four- or six-seater carriage, with a hood to accommodate any weather. £550 per carriage. www.westways carriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683 and contains archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of stunning ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. Please check for times. Adult £27; child £15.50. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.
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SIGHTSEEING and watch a falconry display in the castle grounds. Check for regular weekend events. Grounds and garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm. Adult £25.50; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chambers, including embroidery she created while in captivity under Queen Elizabeth I. The Great Gallery is lined with portraits by Jacob de Wet, of real and mythical kings of Scotland. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.
Stonehenge
This Renaissance-style chateau was built in the late 19th century to house Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild’s art collection. The house has wine cellars, gardens and an aviary. The house is now closed for winter with the exception of various festive events, which must be booked in advance. Please check for times and prices. www.waddesdon.org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.
Warwick Castle
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village
DID YOU KNOW? The waxwork of the Queen that is currently on display at Madame Tussauds is the 23rd to have been made. Images of the clay head were sent to Buckingham Palace during the creative process
Built in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, then enhanced by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Its past is brought to life with free tours by the castle’s history team, displays of medieval weaponry, the Winter Birds of Prey show and the Horrible Histories maze. Don’t miss the dungeon, which dates back to 1345 when Warwick was gripped by the plague. Open daily, subject to weather; please check for times. Castle adult £20, child £18; castle & dungeon adult £24, child £21. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.
An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit the Tea Shop, then wander to the Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. To 17 Mar: Christina Rossetti: Vision & Verse. Exploration of the Victorian poet’s significant connection with visual art. Tue-Sun & banks hols 10am-4pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle
The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed and where Princess Eugenie married Jack Brooksbank. Includes state apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. To 6 Jan: A Royal Wedding: The Duke and Duchess of Sussex. See the couple’s wedding outfits on display, including Meghan’s diamond and platinum bandeau tiara. Daily 10am-4.15pm; state apartments closed 7-18 Jan. Adult £21.20; child £12.30 (7-18 Jan adult £11.70; child £7.20). www.royalcollection.org.uk/windsorcastle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.
THE QUEEN © MADAME TUSSAUDS
The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive, early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
Waddesdon Manor
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Feel wonder first hand
Members go free Book online to save at westminster-abbey.org
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See ...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings
ges
By Night
and sightseeing activities in the area
They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us
where
®
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30 and 21:20
b.org
Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £21 Child - £12
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
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‘Follow in the former Prime Minister’s footsteps ’
F
ew things personify secrecy like the Freemasons – who are thought to date back to medieval times, when trade guilds were founded to forge secretive links between travelling stonemasons. English Freemasonry is celebrated at the Museum of Freemasonry (p. 40), a little-known venue inside Covent Garden’s Freemasons Hall. The museum displays Masonic artefacts, from silver to furniture. Winston Churchill, also a Freemason,
built a secret bunker during World War II. Today, it’s the Churchill War Rooms (p. 39), just off Whitehall in London’s governmental heart. The metallic entrance leads down to the darkened passageways, and tiny rooms where British history was made. After you’ve followed in the former Prime Minister’s footsteps, there’s an engaging museum about Churchill’s personal and political life. The War Rooms are associated with the Imperial War Museum (p. 39), which has secrets of its own: the impressive south London building that it occupies used to be Bethlem Royal Hospital, better known as Bedlam. Yes, this was the infamous, 17th-century asylum – discover more on its daily, 40-minute ‘Bedlam to Baghdad’ tour. Another hidden treat is the tiny Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities (p. 40) in
Hackney. An author, lecturer and artist, Wynd has built an outrageous, occasionally disturbing collection, from real shrunken heads to stuffed squirrels playing card games. If you’re more excited by bigger animals, make an appointment with the Natural History Museum (p. 40). In its Tank Room lies Archie, an 8.62m-long giant squid. These are rare and difficult to display but, when the museum was offered Archie in 2004, it couldn’t refuse. To see him, book online for a one-hour Behind-the-Scenes Tour: Spirit Collection. Clearly, subterranean London is full of secrets. Did you know that where the Strand meets Surrey Street, there used to be an Underground stop? Aldwych Station closed in 1994 but, thanks to London Transport Museum (p. 40) and its Hidden London
MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF THE LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Tour hidden tunnels with London Transport Museum
MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Please check for times and prices. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. The Feliks Topolski: Drawing Debden exhibition showcases sketches revealing how banknotes were made during the late 1950s. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed to 13 Jan. Admission free. www.bankof england.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
Body Worlds Known around the world, this museum brand specialises in the human body. This flagship contains 200 exhibits exploring how every part of the human body works using the latest plastination technology. Sun-Thur 9.30am-7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm. Advance adult £24.50, child £17.50; on the day adult £29, child £22. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. The London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of displays including Ancient Egypt and India. To 20 Jan: I Object: Ian Hislop’s Search for Dissent. Highlights protests. Sat-Thur 10am5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Charles Dickens Museum
OUR
SECRE T CHOIC E programme, you can tour its deserted platforms and tunnels. Book ‘Aldwych: The End of the Line’ and other Hidden London tours online. Prefer staying above ground? One of east London’s most creative secrets might appeal: the monthly ‘First Thursdays’ event (3 Jan) unites more than 150 galleries in the area. The Whitechapel Gallery (p. 42) puts together a walking tour of the month’s highlights, or there’s an Art Bus Tour which ends with a free drink, so you can toast London’s secret side.
NEIL SIMPSON Museums and Galleries Editor
Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Please check for Dickens-themed walks. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours
Florence Nightingale Museum Learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer. Please check for entry and tour times. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739. Please check for times. Adult £10; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.
House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated to illustration. To 27 Jan: 100 Figures: The Unseen Art of Quentin Blake. A collection of 100 oil paintings, drawings and prints created by Blake during the past seven decades. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.household cavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.
Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations, particularly those involving Britain (p. 38). Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.
Jack the Ripper Museum More than just an exploration of Jack the Ripper’s crimes, you’ll also discover the history of east London. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jacktherippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Jewish Museum
Churchill War Rooms
Leighton House Museum
Explore the secret bunker (p. 38) and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his work, with his paintings on display. Please check for times. Adult £9; child £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
Fashion and Textile Museum
Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. Please check for times. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today (p. 6). Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewish museum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
London Film Museum
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73 www.wheretraveler.com 39
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Living colour
January in London can be grey, so Tate Modern’s choice for its new exhibition is apt. Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of Memory (from 23 Jan; p42) delivers a big blast of colour and light. Celebrating the late French painter, this collection displays Bonnard’s talent for conveying the briefest of emotional moments with the stroke of a brush. The Paris-born artist found his style in 1912, and it was later influenced by two World Wars as well as his wife’s ill health: Marthe de Méligny’s treatment involved frequent bathing and many of her husband’s most celebrated pieces depict this routine. You’ll find these serene domestic scenes on the walls, contrasted by darker depictions of France at war.
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London Transport Museum
The Postal Museum
Twinings Museum
Displaying the story of London’s transport system (p. 38). Highlights include red buses and the world’s first Underground steam train. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.lt museum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
See exhibits explore postal history, including post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the tunnels. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum only: Adult £11; child free. Museum and Mail Rail: Adult £17.05; child £10.45. www.postal museum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
English Freemasonry emerged in the 1700s and is celebrated at this little-known museum and library (p. 38). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; closed to 2 Jan. Admission free. www.freemasonry.london.museum. Freemasons Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. D8. Station: Holborn.
Queen’s House
Museum of London
Royal Air Force Museum
The world’s largest urban history museum has exhibits on past fires and plagues. www. museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Museum of London Docklands The history of the River Thames, including a look at the regeneration of the area. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.
National Army Museum Interactive displays telling the story of soldiers from Tudor times to today. Open daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
National Maritime Museum
This royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones and is a masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tour. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark. National aviation museum focusing on the RAF, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
Science Museum A huge, family-friendly museum dedicated to science, technology and medicine. To 6 May: The Sun: Living with our Star. See how the sun is harnessed by humans. To 6 Jan daily 10am6.30pm; from 7 Jan daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum. org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Sir John Soane’s Museum
V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes To 27 Jan: Fashioned fashion. from Nature. A display of innovative new fabrics, contemporary fashion and natural history specimens. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 0207942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities A basement museum in a former shop turned bar with weird items including quirky artwork and taxidermy (p. 38). Tue 3pm-10.30pm; Wed-Sun noon-10.30pm. Adult £6; child £3. www.the lasttuesdaysociety.org. 1 Mare St, E8 4RP. T: 020-7998 3617. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
Get up close to the objects that made history – from iconic maritime exhibits to great British art. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane. Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; closed 7-15 Jan. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Wallace Collection
Natural History Museum
Somerset House This neo-classical building on the Thames houses the Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants (p. 23). Galleries Wed-Fri 11am- 8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.
Wellcome Collection
Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from dinosaur skeletons and fossils (p. 38). Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art. Paintings include Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection. org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street. Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
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Museum of Freemasonry
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
At the venue of the famous championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to tennis kits worn by recent champions, plus touchscreens to watch past greats in action. Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & tour: adult £25; child £15. One child free with every full-price adult ticket. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
World Rugby Museum Relaunched for 2018 following a significant refurbishment, this showcase of global rugby culture is located in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Museum adult £12.50; child £7.50. Museum and stadium tour adult £25; child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.
GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 27 Jan: Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde. Celebrating creatives who became more than friends, including Pablo Picasso and Dora Maar, and Virginia Woolf and Vita Sackville-West (p. 22). Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces. It houses the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free with gallery ticket). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
Hayward Gallery
Royal Society of Sculptors
This recently refurbished gallery is the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Located within Old Brompton Road’s Dora House, this hub for professional sculptors hosts regular exhibitions. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat noon-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors.org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 020-7373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.
The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
National Portrait Gallery A prominent gallery, which is over 150 years old. To 27 Jan: Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2018. Celebrating the world’s best modern work. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 24 Feb: Roman Vishniac Rediscovered. Work on the lives of Jews in Eastern Europe. Check for times and prices. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions. To 28 Apr: Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs. Examining the bond between the British and Russian royal families. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child. £6. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.
Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection. To 3 Feb: Klimt / Schiele: Drawings from the Albertina Museum, Vienna. Drawing similarities between Schiele and his mentor Klimt. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge, renovated Georgian building. To 17 Feb: Black Mirror: Art as Social Satire. Discover how the twists and turns of contemporary politics have affected modern art, through the work of 26 artists from around the world. Daily 10am-6pm. Please check for prices. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 24 Feb: Edward Burne-Jones. This British artist produced fantastical paintings, tapestries and stained-glass works during the Victorian era, looking to Greek myths and Biblical legends for inspiration. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Tate Modern International modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station (p. 40). To 24 Feb: Hyundai Commission: Tania Bruguera. The latest work to take over the gallery’s huge Turbine Hall responds to the global migration crisis. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery, showcasing a range of contemporary art (p. 38). To 28 Mar: Staging Jackson Pollock. Looking back at the gallery’s Pollock exhibition, which took place in 1958. Please check for times and prices. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
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Double act
While you’re on holiday in London, you could Skype your nonna in Naples, or even tweet a smiley at a space station if you feel like it (or us, of course, @wherelondon). But this season, the Royal Academy of Arts has the best comms in London, because it has set up a direct line between two artists who worked 500 years apart. Bill Viola / Michelangelo (from 26 Jan) unites contemporary video artist Bill Viola with Italian Renaissance master Michelangelo, born in 1475. Why? Because the RA considers them to possess incredibly similar minds: both men are fascinated with the meaning of life and what exists beyond human mortality. Working with the Royal Collection (the Queen’s art team), the exhibition includes 14 drawings and a marble relief by Michelangelo, alongside 12 of Viola’s large video installations. Expect high art, dramatic visions and a Matrix-style sense of time.
MICHELANGELO BUONARROTI, THE RISEN CHRIST, C. 1532-3 BLACK CHALK ON PAPER ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2018; BILL VIOLA, TRISTAN’S ASCENSION (THE SOUND OF A MOUNTAIN UNDER A WATERFALL), 2005 VIDEO/SOUND INSTALLATION PERFORMER: JOHN HAY COURTESY OF BILL VIOLA STUDIO/PHOTO © KIRA PEROV
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours
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LONDON CURATING LUXURY FOR THE DISCERNING TRAVELLER
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05/12/2018 16:39
ENTERTAINMENT
OUR
Secret Cinema
‘It’s unlikely you’ll find it by chance, so only those in the know experience its theatrics ’
W
hat I find thrilling is being among the first to see a performance. That’s why Secret Cinema, which hosts films in unusual locations, is at the top of my list. As the name suggests, when the company launched in 2006 – before social media took off – the film was revealed on the night. Audiences are now told which film will be screened, but everything else is top secret. I first went in 2011, when emails directed me to a little-known part of east London. Once in, I had my hair and make-up done
in a 1940s style, danced in a ballet class, played piano at the bar and watched an aerialist climb coloured silks. Meanwhile, actors threw suitcases to one another to the sound of a steam engine. Guessed the film yet? It was The Red Shoes, about a ballerina whose pumps forced her to dance. Secret Cinema also hosted One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest set inside an old hospital, Lawrence of Arabia with real camels and Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back (above) in a factory (www.secretcinema.org).
The Vaults meanwhile is a warren of tunnels hidden beneath Waterloo Station. It’s unlikely you’ll find it by chance, so only those in the know experience its immersive theatrics. Past productions include Alice’s Adventures Underground and Dinner at the Twits. This month, Vault Festival returns (from 23 Jan) with 350 shows, many of which are by unknown, up-and-coming performers. It presents innovative work at reasonable prices, so you can watch two or three shows in a night (www.thevaults.london).
SARAH RICHES Entertainment Editor
SECRET CINEMA © MARIANNE CHUA
SECRE T CHOIC E
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ENTERTAINMENT
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The circus is coming to town
The legendary Cirque du Soleil is returning to the Royal Albert Hall with a new show, Totem (from 12 Jan; p. 48), which has wowed audiences around the world with its story of evolution. From our amphibian state to apes and on to humankind’s quest for flight, the circus show explores primitive and modern myths and aboriginal stories of creation. Swamps, lakes, volcanoes and jungles are depicted through light and film projections, inflatable marsh reeds and an enormous turtle shell over a trampoline. The costumes, too, come in earthy colours, decorated with flowers and insects or made of reflective material. As well as clowns, contortionists, jugglers catching colour-changing balls and diabolos, you’ll see performers balance bowls while riding unicycles and a see-saw show that’ll make you cover your eyes.
Aladdin This West End hit has a stellar cast, with tunes such as A Whole New World, with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (& 2 Jan). Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Band To 12 Jan: Take That’s musical begins in 1992, when five 16-year-old girls feel the band is everything, before reuniting many years later. Songs include Never Forget and Back for Good. Please check for times. Tickets £16.50-£107.50. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Bat Out of Hell To 5 Jan:
This Meat Loaf musical features Jim Steinman’s hit songs, with motorbikes and flames on stage. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£150. www.batout ofhellmusical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Book of Mormon
Come from Away
This controversial satire follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.
From 30 Jan: A tight-knit community rallies round after the 9/11 attacks (p. 50). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£108. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Caroline, or Change
Company
Written by Tony Kushner, author of Angels in America, this musical is set in 1963 Louisiana, where revolution is in the air. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.atgtickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. E8. Station: Embankment.
At Bobbie’s 35th birthday party, her friends wonder why she hasn’t got married and had kids; the lead role is imagined as a woman. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chicago the Musical
Divine Proportions
To 5 Jan: Jazz singers Velma and
Roxie wind up in prison after a murder. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£125. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Circus 1903 To 5 Jan:
DON’T MISS
The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time (p. 50)
Thrilling show with life-sized elephant puppets, acrobats and contortionists. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£99.50. www.south bankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
To 12 Jan: A night of wining, dining and entertainment inspired by the story of Dionysus. Please check for times. Over-18s. Tickets £35-£55. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Dreamgirls To 12 Jan: This musical follows the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Everybody’s Talking about Jamie Set on a council estate in Sheffield, this tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
CIRQUE DU SOLEIL © MATT BEARD PHOTOGRAPHY; THE CURIOUS INCIDENT OF THE DOG IN THE NIGHT-TIME © BRINKHOFF/MÖGENBURG
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MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
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THE MUSIC AL
PH ENOMENON
QUEEN’S THEATRE
SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON W1D 6BA
lesmis.com | 0844 482 5151 Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge TM © 1986 CMOL
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ENTERTAINMENT 42nd Street
Motown the Musical
9 to 5 The Musical
A bossy director stages a musical during the Great Depression, while chorus-line Peggy dreams of stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched many careers including Diana Ross and the Supremes and Stevie Wonder. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
From 28 Jan: Three women seek revenge on their sexist boss (below). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£150. www.9to5the musical.co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
To 26 Jan: Songwriter Orpheus
and his muse Eurydice fall in love in summer, but as winter approaches, reality sets in: they can’t survive on songs alone. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£68. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Hamilton Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical has been a multi-award-winning hit on Broadway. It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s founding father, Alexander Hamilton, a poor, orphaned immigrant born in the Caribbean. Please check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.
Hot Gay Time Machine To 5 Jan: This comical cabaret follows the most important moments in a gay man’s life, from coming out to their mum to navigating the school locker room. Suitable for over-18s. Check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.
Kinky Boots To 12 Jan: Fun musical about a shoe factory that reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce kneehigh boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Please check for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.
Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry, plus an original score. Please check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. MonSat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm (& 2 Jan). Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Matilda the Musical Based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book, where a girl with magic powers faces a cruel headmistress. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical. com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Murder for Two To 13 Jan: A comical, high-energy whodunnit with two actors playing 13 characters. When novelist Arthur Whitney is found dead at his birthday party, neighbourhood police officer Marcus Moscowicz has to prove himself. Please check for times. Tickets £24-£29. www.theother palace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. F7. Station: Victoria.
WORK HARD, PLAY HARDER Pull on your cowboy boots as the ‘Queen of Country’, Dolly Parton, has spearheaded a new stage show. 9 to 5 The Musical at the Savoy Theatre (from 28 Jan, above) is based on the 1980 comedy film in which she starred, plus her original Oscar, Grammy and Tony Award-nominated score. The script is written by the film’s screenwriter Patricia Resnick and follows the story of three long-suffering women, including Violet (Louise Redknapp, below), as they plot to kidnap their sexist boss, Franklin (Brian Conley).
The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times; no show 6 Jan. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
School of Rock: The Musical Comical musical about a slacker who tries to turn a class of top students into a rock band. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Snow White To 13 Jan: Comedian Dawn French stars in this classic pantomime, which features songs, jokes and audience participation. Please check for times and prices. www.reallyuseful theatres.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tina: The Tina Turner Musical Musical based on the life of Tennessee farmgirl Anna Mae Bullock, aka Tina Turner, featuring all her hits. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£149.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
Totem From 12 Jan: Cirque du Soleil returns to the hall (p. 46). Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
PLAYS Antony & Cleopatra To 19 Jan: Ralph Fiennes and Sophie Okonedo play the ill-fated couple in Shakespeare’s tragedy. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The Comedy about a Bank Robbery Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold of a diamond. Check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
LOUISE REDKNAPP COURTESY OF 9 TO 5 THE MUSICAL
Hadestown
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A NEW PLAY BY
SIMON STEPHENS
BASED ON THE BEST-SELLING NOVEL BY
MARK HADDON
DIRECTED BY
MARIANNE ELLIOTT
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ENTERTAINMENT
‘‘
An island in the storm
When American airspace closed during 9/11, what happened to the aeroplanes in flight? Watch Come from Away, Christopher Ashley’s Tony Award-winning musical at the Phoenix Theatre (from 30 Jan; p. 46), to find out. The tight-knit community of Gander, on the Canadian island of Newfoundland, has a population of only 10,000 people and just 550 hotel rooms. Immediately after the catastrophe, however, it pulled together to host 6,579 stranded passengers and crew. Locals have their own Canadian-Irish dialect and slang – the musical’s title refers to people not born on Newfoundland – and the show’s earthy, Celtic folk-rock songs are played on traditional instruments by an eight-piece band.
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To 26 Jan: Zimbabwe in 1896 sees
Jekesai, a young woman fleeing forced marriage, working for a devout Catholic priest. Tickets £10-£40. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time This award-winning play, based on Mark Haddon’s novel, follows an autistic boy as he searches for a missing dog. Check for times and prices. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Doctor Faustus Christopher Marlowe’s masterpiece, based on Dr Faustus’ obsession with power, explores the nature of human curiosity. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Don Quixote
The Mousetrap
True West
A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit, with many under suspicion. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mouse trap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Austin is working on a film script, when his brother Lee stumbles back into his life and wreaks havoc on his professional life. Please check for times and prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.
The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about an amateur drama society staging a murder mystery, where everything goes wrong. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Summer and Smoke To 19 Jan: Alma meets John and her world turns upside down, in Tennessee Williams’ play about love, loneliness and self-destruction. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£85. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Switzerland To 5 Jan: An elderly thriller writer
An eccentric old man heads off on a quest to become a knight, accompanied by his faithful yet equally ill-suited servant. Please check for times. Tickets from £10. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
finds solace in her seclusion, with cigarettes and alcohol, before a man turns up to persuade her to pen a final instalment of her series. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£75. www.theambassadors theatre.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience
The Tell-Tale Heart
Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience, based on the TV comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50£74.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Please check for returns and times. www.harrypotterthe play.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Inheritance To 19 Jan: Follows a young gay man in New York, a generation after the peak of the AIDS crisis. Suitable for over-14s. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
War Horse To 5 Jan: A return to the theatre where it debuted 11 years ago, with astounding puppets and a moving tale. Please check for times and returns. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Witness for the Prosecution Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama, based on a murder trial, is staged in a former courtroom. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£79.50. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Westminster.
The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL
To 9 Jan: In this darkly comic treat, a young playwright rents an attic flat in Brighton and forms a relationship with her lonely landlady. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£45. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Cadogan Hall 14 Jan: Ramn Karimloo. 18 Jan:
National Opera Studio 40th Anniversary Concert. 19 Jan: Joshua Bell (Barber, Tchaikovsky, Bizet). www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
The Tragedy of King Richard the Second To 19 Jan: Simon Russell Beale plays the reckless King Richard II in this new production about the limits of power, where weak leadership sends his kingdom into disarray. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£48. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
DID YOU KNOW? Every performance of Les Misérables uses 392 costumes, including 31 wigs
Royal Festival Hall 17 Jan: Nathan Laube: Bach’s Clavier-Übung III. 18 Jan: Leonidas Kavakos & Yuja Wang (Mozart, Bartok, Strauss). 29 Jan: St Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
COME FROM AWAY © HELEN MAYBANKS; LES MISÉRABLES © JOHAN PERSSON
The Convert
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St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 0207381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE
Wigmore Hall 4 Jan: The King’s Consort (Purcell, Blow). 6 Jan: Rolston String Quartet (Haydn, Brahms). 11 Jan:
Anne Schwanewilms & Malcolm Martineau (Schumann, Debussy). www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Café 4 Jan: Transatlantic Ensemble Present: Being Bowie. 2-3, 14 & 18 Jan: Alexander O’Neal. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
The O2 18-19 Jan: The 1975. 26 Jan: Snow Patrol. 27 Jan:
Davido. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 1-4 Jan: Incognito. 7-9 Jan: Sarah Jane Morris. 23-24 Jan: Igor Butman Quintet. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7.
Station: Tottenham Court Road.
OPERA Royal Opera House From 13 Jan: The Queen of Spades (Tchaikovsky). 14-31 Jan: La Traviata (Verdi). www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8.
Station: Covent Garden.
DANCE Royal Opera House To 4 Jan: Les Patineurs/Winter Dreams/The Concert (varied ballet). To 15 Jan: The Nutcracker
(Tchaikovsky). www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sadler’s Wells To 27 Jan: Swan Lake (Matthew Bourne). 2-6 Jan: Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky). From 10 Jan: London International Mime Festival. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Christmas Carol To 19 Jan: Charles Dickens’ immortal classic. Please check for times and prices. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Snowman To 6 Jan: Classic tale about a boy who makes friends with a snowman. Please check for times. Tickets from £15. www.sadlerswells.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.
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SHOPPING MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
Canary Wharf This is a first-class shopping destination in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.
Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
FASHION Alexander McQueen
Carnaby
Flagship boutique with a collection of ready-towear clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexander mcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.
Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Browns
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
King’s Road This iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Formerly a small boutique, now five adjoining townhouses for top designer labels. www.browns fashion.com. 24-27 South Molton St, W1K 5RD. T: 020-7514 0016. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Burberry Classic trenches and tartan. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products. www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.
Oxford Street
Christian Louboutin
Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.
Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of red-soled shoes. www.christianlouboutin.com. 17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ (and branches). T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for men’s tailoring, especially suits. E7. Station: Green Park.
MAJOR STORES Fortnum & Mason
Gucci One of the world’s most desirable brands, with legendary Italian quality. www.gucci.com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE (and branches). T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS
Hamleys
New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars, plus personal shoppers. Please check for times. www.iconattheo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0208463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. Please check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Harrods
Icon Outlet
Westfield London
Food and meat halls, fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
This huge mall has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania where children can play while parents shop. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
John Lewis & Partners
Westfield Stratford City
Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Please check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
This mall has 270 shops, a cinema and casino and outdoor spaces. www.westfield.com/ stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
‘East London is a hub for quirky fashions as well as designer discounts ’
A
re you feeling the pinch this month after a season of overindulgence? If so, it’s always good to find a bargain, or even a one-of-a-kind piece. Far beyond the world of the well-publicised, frantic January sales, we have a few under-the-radar ideas. Those in the know will tell you that east London, especially Hackney, is a hub for
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London Designer Outlet
OUR
LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET
SECRE T CHOIC E alternative fashion. The centre of London’s garment production industry in the 1950s, it is now enjoying a new lease of life thanks to Hackney Walk. This luxury outlet centre, with many stores housed in former Victorian railway arches, offers discounts from leading fashion labels at a cluster of boutiques. Find stylish coats at Burberry and luxury designer bags from Anya Hindmarch, stylish menswear at Aquascutum and the latest sports gear at the Nike outlet. It even boasts the first outlet store from MatchesFashion, with a selection of off-season styles from up to 400 designers. It’s all very well being the height of fashion, but some of the most satisfying purchases can be found by unearthing treasures from local
and emerging designers. The Hackney Shop hosts different pop-up shops each week from local designers, at discounted prices, as well as evening events such as Sip and Shop (where a glass of wine makes it even more enjoyable). Each day brings something new at lively Old Spitalfields Market close to Brick Lane. Head to its Saturday Style Market, where its stalls offer edgy fashion from independent designers who you can also meet. Browse creations at Not Just a Shop, run by students from the University of the Arts London. Select pieces, from hand-painted ceramics to a London skyline umbrella. It’s not always easy to find out in advance dates of sample sales – these can be held
in everything from glamorous hotels to warehouses – and they offer discounts on designer labels. The Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane hosts year-round exhibits, fairs and entertainment. At The Box in Hackney, those with a nose for a bargain should head to its pop-ups selling local designers’ pieces. If you are looking for cheap prices all year round, visit the London Designer Outlet in Wembley Park, where you will find up to 70 per cent off accessories, clothes, food and drink.
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SHOPPING
JEWELLERY & WATCHES Couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.
Seek out this subterranean shop for matcha, fans, ceramics and specialist food items from Japan. Please check for opening times. www.japan centre.com. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Links of London
London Glassblowing
Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs, plus an engraving service. www.linksoflondon. com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
Pick up a beautiful souvenir at Peter Layton’s studio and shop. Book a class to try glassblowing for yourself at the UK’s leading studio and gallery for glass art. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
David Morris
AFFAIRS OF THE ART If you’re looking for a piece of art to buy, you’re in the right city as London boasts hundreds of independent galleries. London Art Fair (16-20 Jan; above) showcases works ranging from museum-quality paintings to contemporary prints. Artrooms Fair (11-13 Jan) takes over an entire floor of a luxury hotel, where each bedroom is dedicated to one artist to display their works. www.londonartfair.co.uk; www.art-rooms.org
Japan Centre
Pandora Modern jewellery, which includes charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise of all varieties, plus a ‘Pick and Build’ wall and a huge display of a replica Big Ben made from the bricks. www.lego.com/en-gb/ stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops, trading since 1706. It has a huge variety of teas and infusions. Items also include tea pots. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Daily, please check for times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
We Built This City
SPECIALIST STORES
Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Look out for artworks, including illustrations of London icons and maps. Please check for times. www.webuilt-thiscity.com. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Buckingham Palace Shop
The Whisky Exchange
Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
This specialist retailer stocks a large selection of fine whiskies, spirits and Champagnes. www.the whiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
SUNDAY MORNING, 2018 © TOM HAMMICK COURTESY OF FLOWERS GALLERY LONDON; OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK
SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK
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Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.
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Opium Cocktail and Dim Sum Parlour
‘These restaurants don’t have a sign – and some don’t even have an address ’
I
f a friend asks me to keep a secret, I’ll take it to the grave. But when I find a secret spot in London, I can’t help but share it. London’s dining scene is big and bold: big names, bold flavours. But it’s also about the small and the hidden – which is why I’m sharing these. Stroll through Chinatown and you could easily miss Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour as it doesn’t have a sign – so look out for staff by a jade-coloured door. Its three dimly lit rooms are spread across two floors and decorated with Chinese wallpaper, Oriental fans and lanterns, while
pink tasseled lampshades and vintage suitcases create a 1920s Shanghai vibe. Order baskets of steaming dim sum filled with king prawns, crab and samphire or Cantonese barbecue pork, then select a creative cocktail, some of which are served in teacups (www.opiumchinatown.com). The Mexican restaurant and bar La Bodega Negra in Soho is just as hidden – this time, in plain view, disguised as a sex shop with neon ‘peep show’ and ‘adult video’ signs to bamboozle passers-by. Look left, look right, then scurry down to the candlelit basement.
Savour skewers of tuna and pineapple in adobo sauce, crab tacos with chipotle cream, or scallop ceviche with hibiscus and pomegranate (www.labodeganegra.com). These restaurants don’t have a sign, and some don’t even have an address – like The Civilisations Supperclub. Run by a Syrian couple, each event is held in a new, unusual venue with a themed menu, plus music and storytelling (www.sakbeh.co.uk). If you visit one of these venues, I bet when friends back home ask what the highlight of your trip was you’ll say: ‘Can you keep a secret?’
SARAH RICHES Dining Editor
OPIUM INTEROR COURTESY OF OPIUM COCKTAIL & DIM SUM PARLOUR
DINING
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DINING
BRITISH (MODERN)
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH)
Darwin Brasserie
Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, which is more than 40 years old, with rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
JW Steakhouse Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef with various sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with film memorabilia and international menu. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting including animatronic animals, with a family-friendly menu featuring pasta, salads and chargrilled chicken. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.the rainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
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Fenchurch Restaurant This smart dining room on the roof of the Walkie Talkie has spectacular views. It serves Cornish mackerel, Isle of Mull scallops and Devonshire lamb – and the desserts are something special. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london. £££. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
Rex Whistler Restaurant
Originally opened in 1927, this arty restaurant features white columns and a grand mural by Rex Whistler which covers all the walls. It’s known for its wine list, which goes well Rules opened in 1798 with roast beef, lemon sole and it has spanned the and poached pear for dessert. reigns of nine ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate monarchs Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 0207887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
DID YOU KNOW?
Fera at Claridge’s This Michelin-starred restaurant’s decor and menu are inspired by the British landscape. Try stewed rabbit and poached quince with camomile ice cream. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
The Montagu Kitchen This modern British brasserie is tucked behind Oxford Street. The menu is inspired by the National Trust’s Chartwell House in Kent – Winston Churchill’s former residence – so expect seasonal, locally
Sophie’s Steakhouse The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace. As well as steak, it serves Sunday roasts and heavy puddings. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophies steakhouse.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Pancras Brasserie This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal has tall ceilings and banquette seating. It serves British dishes all day such as chicken pie, Cornish plaice, potato and rosemary dumplings with parsley cream and fish and chips. It also has a long Champagne and oyster bar which overlooks the trains. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.stpancras bysearcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
REVIEW
The Michelin-starred chef Andrew Wong has opened a second restaurant near Bank. Kym’s, named after the chef’s Cantonese grandma, features regional Chinese dishes including honey-glazed fried lotus flower, silken tofu with 100-year-old egg and build-your-own duck pancakes, which come with a calligraphy brush for adding the accompanying plum sauce. Our companion, who is Singaporean Chinese, said the meal tasted just like her mum’s cooking – especially the crispy pork belly with soy chicken. Cocktails include a yuzu Negroni and lychee Martini, served at the circular bar with a walnut countertop. A cherry blossom tree glows by the golden staircase, which leads to a first-floor mezzanine with maroon velvet booths. Our only gripe is that the tables are close together, so it might get noisy. 19 Bloomberg Arcade, EC4N 8AR. T: 020-7220 7088. www.kymsrestaurant.com
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KYM’S © GAVRIIL PAPADIOTIS
Come into bloom
Dine on level 36 of the building known as the Walkie Talkie for city-wide views. Try dishes such as roasted sea trout. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
sourced and beautifully-cooked dishes such as guinea fowl breast, smoked aubergine cooked on a Josper grill and raspberry rose Bakewell tart. You can also have afternoon tea. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.themontagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 72-73 www.wheretraveler.com 57
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DINING REVIEW
EAST IS EAST Chef Rohit Ghai has opened Kutir in a townhouse hidden behind Sloane Square. Previously he launched Gymkhana, then won a Michelin star in less than a year for Jamavar. Kutir (meaning ‘hut’ in Sanskrit) is inspired by the feasts royals would eat while hunting in the jungle. Ghai says: ‘This is a passion project for me. Kutir is inspired by mine and my co-founder’s early careers, in Indian heritage hotels within wildlife sanctuaries.’ 10 Lincoln St, SW3 2TS. T: 0207581 1144. www.kutir.co.uk
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)
CHINESE
Butlers Restaurant
Chai Wu
Café in the Crypt Underneath the church in Trafalgar Square you can dine under stone arches. Enjoy homely, good-value dishes and hot British desserts. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
Cheneston’s Enjoy British cuisine in a classic dining room, with dishes such as pan-seared venison and pot roast Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The English Grill This smart hotel restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Palm Court This grand hotel lounge has palms, trees and a mirrored folding screen. Go alone to read a book in this literary area or order afternoon tea and enjoy the colonial conservatory vibe. Please check for opening times. ££. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb British cuisine in this plush dining room, complete with chandeliers and a grand piano, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. A jacket and tie are essential. Book ahead – this is one restaurant to remember. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 0203819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Brasserie inside a former bank, featuring a glass dome, serving everything from a full English breakfast to slow-cooked lamb shank. £££. MonFri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Hakkasan
Galvin at Windows
This fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. Tucked away in an alley, its decor takes styling cues from Shanghai. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Mei Ume
1 Lombard Street
Michelin-starred cuisine from the Galvin brothers, with views over the park. Set menus include a Bellini Sunday lunch. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
DID YOU KNOW?
FISH AND SEAFOOD
This plush restaurant Neptune serves Chinese and Japanese cuisine, including sushi and Peking Try the seafood platter and oysters The Russian prima duck. Tall ceilings, big windows in this Grade II-listed hotel. £££. Daily ballerina Pavlova danced and a cherry blossom painting make B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. at The Ritz in 1912, six it feel grand. ££££. Daily L & D. www. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell years after it opened fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 020-3297 C8. Station: Russell Square. 3799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Min Jiang Enjoy park views alongside Sichuan dishes, dim sum and spicy seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.
Yauatcha Award-winning Soho restaurant serving dim sum. Save space for the macarons. £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha.com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL (and City branch). T: 020-7494 8888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
FRENCH
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Brasserie Joël Try the tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo.
KUTIR COURTESY OF KUTIR
Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant, which is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chester fieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 0207491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24
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30/11/2018 15:53
WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK
Time for tea
THE MARYLEBONE HOTEL
ST MARTINS LANE HOTEL
THE BLOOMSBURY
Treat yourself to an afternoon tea inspired by an English country garden in 108 Pantry at this central hotel. Executive chef Russell Ford serves bites on grass meadow serving boards and in terracotta flowerpots, decorated with edible flowers, with fork and spade-style cutlery. Highlights include smoked salmon on Guinness bread, a truffled Brie Jerusalem artichoke crisp, and pear and cardamom scones, followed by quince fool, chocolate and orange Battenberg and apple and blackberry custard tart. 47 Welbeck St, W1G 8DN. T: 020-7486 6600. www.gofortea.com/themarylebone
Sit in the Den to enjoy a festive afternoon tea (to 4 Jan). Following scones and brioche, brown bread and focaccia sandwiches, tuck into chocolately sweet treats including The Rocher – praline choux sphere filled with hazelnut cream and covered in milk chocolate; dark chocolate ganache tart with passion fruit; a chocolate and raspberry cake and a coconut and milk chocolate mousse. Sip tea or pay a bit extra for unlimited Hotel Chocolat hot chocolate. 45 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4HX. T: 0207300 550. www.gofortea.com/stmartinslane
This Georgian, Grade II-listed hotel is home to the stunning Coral Room, which serves a French countryside themed tea. Savoury bites include roasted pork with apple chutney on multigrain bread, and turkey and cranberry on Guinness bread. Unusually, vanilla scones come with Jersey Black Butter – a blend of Jersey cider, apples and spices. Finish with chocolate mousse with candied chestnuts. In January, you will receive 25 per cent off afternoon tea and a glass of English sparkling wine. 16-22 Great Russell St, WC1B 3NN. T: 0207347 1000. www.gofortea.com/coralroom
TAJ 51 BUCKINGHAM GATE
BATEAUX LONDON
THE CONNAUGHT
Children will especially enjoy the Alice in Wonderland-themed tea at this hotel, which comes with chocolate chip scones, cucumber and cream cheese on beetroot bread, and tomato, redcurrant jam and Cornish Yarg (cheese wrapped in nettles) served on floral china and decorated with packs of cards. Of course, it’s the sweets you come for: think ‘drink me’ strawberry potion, a bubble-gum macaron decorated like a watch and a Queen of Hearts’ mango tart. Enjoy! 51 Buckingham Gate, SW1E 6AF. T: 0207769 7766. www.gofortea.com/kona
Short on time? You can squeeze in afternoon tea aboard Bateaux London’s Harmony, which takes one hour 15 minutes, and take in key sights such as the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben along the River Thames as you dine. Listen to a pianist as you nibble on classic sandwiches filled with smoked salmon and cream cheese, scones and sweets including mini doughnuts, chocolate fudge brownies, lemon tart and macarons. Board at 3.15pm. Embankment Pier, Victoria Embankment, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. www.gofortea.com/bateaux
For a classic afternoon tea with a contemporary twist, sit in The Connaught hotel’s Jean-Georges room in Mayfair. Start with cucumber, lime and Greek yoghurt on mint and basil bread; truffle, egg mayonnaise and watercress on caramelised onion bread, and roast ham and butternut squash with white miso and black pepper on walnut bread. After scones, finish with a fig tart, walnut crumble and orange sponge with pumpkin and Tonka mousse. Carlos Place, W1K 2AL. T: 020-7499 7070. www.gofortea.com/theconnaught
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES
Britain is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk
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DINING Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine such as sea bass with seaweed crust, served in a smart dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
INDIAN
ENJOY THE THALI AT
REAL INDIAN FOOD
Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here has exotic twists, such as smoked chilli lamb chops. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Benares Dine on modern Indian cuisine, such as soft-shell crab and venison, girolles and Padrón pepper biryani. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benares restaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka bar. The seasonal menu might feature Hyderabadi lamb shank or Goan chicken curry. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant serves North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Masala Zone
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
Enjoy street food, thalis and regional curries in vibrant surroundings. ££. Daily L & D. www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Tamarind Try authentic, Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelinstarred, has an opulent interior, and dishes such as lamb shank cooked for six hours. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy 28-day-aged beef and fried hake at this relaxed restaurant and bar. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini and Sunday roasts. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
The Terrace This hotel restaurant above Charing Cross Station dates back 150 years. Dine on salads, burgers, pasta and small plates in an opulent setting. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
An exquisite bar and restaurant in the heart of Soho serving a delicious and varied menu showcasing locally sourced vegetables and fish – along with Sophie’s famous British beef. 42-44 Great Windmill Street, W1B 7NB sophiessteakhouse.com/soho soho@sophiessteakhouse.com 020 7836 8836
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DINING
ITALIAN
RIVERSIDE
SOUTH EAST ASIAN
Ask Italian
Bateaux London
Chi Kitchen
This pizza and pasta joint opposite Paddington Station is a friendly spot. You can eat in its sunny conservatory. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian. co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.
See the sights on a cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 0207695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.
Cicchetti
Enjoy a two-course lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in Debenhams department store and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen. There’s also a Champagne bar. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on delicious stone-baked pizzas and salad or sit down to afternoon tea before a concert in this iconic Victorian music venue. Check for Free Friday Music. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian. com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 0207070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table in a theatrical experience: they flip ingredients, catch some in their hats, shout and tap utensils to a beat. Try the Wagyu beef and hibachi prawns. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant specialises in Kobe beef and sushi. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ginza Onodera This sleek, subterranean Mayfair restaurant serves sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.
Sakagura
Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving British cuisine, with dishes including Liverpool Gin-cured salmon and Gloucester ham hock terrine. It has set, pretheatre and afternoon tea menus. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment, Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
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Feel-good food
If you feel guilty following December’s hedonism, redeem yourself at Redemption Bar in Covent Garden. Serving wholefood, vegan and gluten-free dishes that are low in sugar, it uses ingredients such as charcoal powder, pine pollen and medicinal mushrooms. Try the Bolognese with shiitake mushrooms and barbecued jackfruit, or build your own ‘Buddha bowl’ with seasonal vegetables, fruit, pulses, nuts and homemade dips. If you’re battling through a dry January, you can visit its bar guilt-free, as it only serves alcohol-free cocktails. Here, you can sip Piña Coladas, frozen pineapple Margaritas and lychee and yuzu Martinis decorated with flowers, or order kombucha on tap. 2 Neal’s Yard, WC2H 9AT . www.redemptionbar.co.uk
Mango Tree This fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes such as tom ka and grilled beef in a spicy sauce. The set menu is an excellent way to try a variety of dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Thai Pot This much-loved restaurant has been established for 20 years. From its huge, varied menu, try the stir-fried beef and Massaman curry, or a set meal from £13.50. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
SPANISH El Pirata This lively Mayfair restaurant has been serving hot and cold tapas for nearly 25 years. Try the prawns in olive oil, pimentos and wild mushrooms, or the deep-fried medallions of monkfish. The good value set menu takes some of the hassle out of choosing. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
VEGETARIAN The Gate This latest branch of the well-known veggie restaurant with Indian and Middle Eastern influences serves dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Mildreds This Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes such as wild mushroom and ale pie and mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
IMAGES COURTESY OF REDEMPTION BAR
The menu at this izakaya-style Japanese pub is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakaguralondon.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
RS Hispaniola
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All-day dining venue serving Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.san carlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
The London Showboat
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Embracing the very best of English tradition, design and flavours.
3 9 B U C K I N G H A M PA L AC E ROA D LONDON SW1W OPS +44 (0) 20 7834 6600
WHE R E
LOND ON
PR OM OTION
BEST OF LONDON DINING The Chelsea Harbour Hotel EL PIRATA COURTESY OF EL PIRATA; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF THE CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL
IMAGES COURTESY OF REDEMPTION BAR
T HE ENG LI SH G RI LL
The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea is in partnership with Whittard of Chelsea. Go on a journey through the history of afternoon tea, from its advent in 1840 by the Duchess of Bedford through to the present day. The tea comes with sandwiches and desserts from throughout history. The menu includes finger sandwiches filled with classic and contemporary delights such as coronation chicken, a sandwich created in 1953 specifically for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. The luxurious five-star hotel boasts panoramic views over Chelsea Harbour Marina and the River Thames. The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea costs £28 per person, or £38 with a glass of Champagne.
El Pirata
Chelsea Harbour Dr, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000.
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic: the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans such as Brian May and Johnny Depp, as well as food critics, are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
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NIGHTLIFE TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This charming 17th-century pub is a real step back in time. It boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music and mobile phones are discouraged. www.frenchhouse soho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The George Inn This tucked-away historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Waxy O’Connor’s Popular Irish bar, with four bars split over six levels. It has regular live music, pub food and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Waxy’s Little Sister Smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s, serving traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus a range of great bar food. www. waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
BARS & CLUBS The Back Room Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, this bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hard rock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar and elegant decor. Excellent bar snacks. www.bookingoffice bar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
City Garden Bar This impressive bar, on the roof terrace of the Walkie Talkie building, has amazing views, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This tucked-away basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery. It offers tours and courses, too. www.cityoflondondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
The Glasshouse Stores
Dukes Bar
This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Outstanding bar, renowned for its superior Martinis. Oozing old-world charm, its lounge area is a comforting, luxurious space. www.dukeshotel. com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.
The Guinea
This long-standing gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub below. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.
The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, this pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. It features old fireplaces, worn rugs and brick walls. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.
Jack Solomons Club
Freedom
Gong Located on level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. Reservations recommended. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73.
‘Look for a black door labelled “Luggage Entrance.” A shutter is drawn back in an open sesame moment ’ SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor
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NIGHTLIFE
The Faces in Tramp in 1973 Peter Sellers and Miranda Quarry in Tramp
OUR
SECRE T CHOIC E
JACK SOLOMONS CLUB COURTESY OF JACK SOLOMONS CLUB; THE FACES © MICHAEL PUTLAND/GETTY IMAGES; PETER SELLERS © GETTY IMAGES
Mr Fogg’s House of Botanicals
S
ince the opening of London’s oldest private members’ club, Tramp in Mayfair, Frank Sinatra and The Beatles have swung by, while Joan Collins and Liza Minnelli held their wedding receptions there. Now, as it turns 50, I take a look at other bars that are hard to get into and even harder to find. London has bars hidden behind mirrors, bookcases and wardrobes, venues that require secret handshakes and codes and those that demand a personal invitation. Yes, finding some of them can be as hard as cracking the Enigma code and getting in as
challenging as accessing M15, but once in, the smug factor makes it worthwhile. One of my favourite hidden bars is the threestorey Milk & Honey in Soho. The ground floor is open to non-members before 11pm, if you book ahead. Order the London Calling, made with gin, sherry, lemon and orange bitters. House rules include ‘gentlemen will not introduce themselves to ladies,’ but ladies, if you want to be sociable, bartenders can make introductions (www.mlkhny.com). Jack Solomons Club is nearby – not that you’d know it, as it’s hidden beneath a takeaway in Soho. Ring the bell, head past
the counter and downstairs into a bar that’s themed around a boxer who gave up the sport for his girlfriend and went on to become a boxing promoter (www.jacksolomons.com). As the name suggests, The Luggage Room in Mayfair is a former luggage room, which has been transformed into a 1920s-style bar with live jazz and old-school cocktails. Find London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square, then look for a black door labelled ‘Luggage Entrance’. When you bang the knocker, a shutter is drawn back in an ‘open sesame’ moment, revealing leather banquettes, a dark wooden bar and marble staircase. www.wheretraveler.com 65
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Havana nights
REVIEW
Havana in the 1920s is the inspiration for this new bar, which is influenced by bodegas – the Hispanic off-licences on New York’s street corners. Niche, no? Genuine Liquorette is in a former Victorian pub in Fitzrovia, but it’s not just the decor that makes it unique – which is best described as ‘storeroom chic’, with neon signs, murals and 1970s collages. It serves Cha-Chunker cocktails; a vice-like machine with a metal point widens canned drinks so mini bottles of alcohol can fit in, after which you can mix your own drinks – no need for a hip flask, then. You can also browse spirits in cabinets and create bottled cocktails to take home, or have them delivered to your hotel. 6 Rathbone Place, W1T 1HL. T: 020-3319 6306. www.liquorette.co.uk
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Gordon’s Wine Bar
St Pancras Champagne Bar
The Sportsman Casino
London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit stonearched basement. Get there early to grab a table. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
Europe’s longest Champagne bar is on the Paris Eurostar concourse. Enjoy bubbly and seafood platters, with heated leather banquettes. www.st pancrasbysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy the poker lounge, sports bar, informal dining and elegant restaurant. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Social 24
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT
Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the River Thames. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Smart bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant with an Art Deco interior, Prohibitioninspired cocktails and great views. www.citysocial london.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Mews Cocktail Bar
The Vault
Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this exclusive cocktail bar, which is home to exquisite wines, fresh fruit and cocktails. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar, with live music most nights. Check website for programme. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar, serving eccentric cocktails and upscale bar bites. Reservations recommended. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The tiny, specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcase, is a hidden bar. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro’s groundbreaking cocktails, in a lounge with eccentric decor incorporating leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. The bar is part of a hotel of the same name. www.thezettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.
DID YOU KNOW?
Julie Andrews made her solo debut at the Hippodrome Casino in 1947.
Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures lining the walls. Wonderful cocktails. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire
This spectacular West End venue also has a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hippodrome Casino Massive casino with gaming on three floors, plus a restaurant and live music venue. www.hippodrome casino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with live entertainment, to create a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton, Neil Mullarkey and Josie Lawrence, while it also hosts regular late-night stand-up events. www. thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy music together. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow, and is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Up to 70 Angels dance nightly on four stages. You can also dine in the five-star steak restaurant and visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
IMAGE COURTESY OF GENUINE LIQUORETTE
L’escale Wine Bar
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SPAS & SALONS
OUR
A
FaceGym
Ushvani
fter a season of late nights and drinking, it’s likely your face is in need of some extra attention. Facials may feel like a treat, as you lie back and close your eyes while someone massages your face, but the effective ones can sometimes be painful. There are gyms for your body, but now there’s also one for your face: FaceGym has workouts to lift, tone and tighten face muscles. Founded by beauty journalist Inge Theron, the aim is to create workouts that stimulate circulation, collagen and cell renewal. Coal Drops Yard, designed by architect Thomas Heatherwick, is a great location for the latest FaceGym. The venues, referred to as studios, have music blasting and communal ‘workout’ areas, which means four chairs on the main floor, rather than individual treatment rooms, all making it feel like a gym. The Party Face is a popular treatment, both pre- and post-party, as it includes its signature electrical workout with vitamins and peptides. Your personal trainer will address your skin’s needs and face-training goals (www.facegym.com).
Unlike most spas, which have no natural light, Spa at Four Seasons Park Lane is a breath of fresh air – its treatment rooms overlook Hyde Park. Its vast choice of facials include the Gold Hydrating Facial, as well as the Rose Crystal Lymphatic Facial, which uses acupressure massage to firm and tone facial muscles (www.fourseasons.com). Ushvani is hidden away in the heart of Knightsbridge (p. 69). Behind a huge wooden door, this tranquil space takes a South Asian holistic approach. The Signature Facial uses antioxidant hibiscus flowers while your skin is cleansed and exfoliated, and muscles are stimulated. There is also a Men’s Signature Facial and a Penyepit Facial, which uses chopstick-like wooden rollers on your face. As your skin changes with age, hormones and the weather, book one of these treatments so you can put your best face forward.
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Spas and Salons Editor
FACIAL © ISTOCK; FACEGYM COURTESY OF FACEGYM; USHVANI COURTESY OF USHVANI
‘There are gyms for your body, but now there’s also one for your face’
SECRE T CHOIC E
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SPAS & SALONS
SPAS
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel
This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold Age Defying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two. Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
Bamford Haybarn Spa
The Spa at Dolphin Square
Aveda Institute
First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch. Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.
Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, the spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, with his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa
Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for brides and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven. The menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch. This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture, and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese Massage, which incorporates natural herbs, spices and flowers (p. 68). Look out for yoga classes. www.ushvani. com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
07879 697478
Late appointments available
Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
One Aldwych
Jo Hansford
Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a shaving lesson. Also at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage.
SALONS
At this trendy hairdressers, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches). T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Refinery
by qualified female masseuse.
Ushvani
Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Modrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Signature treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo. This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
AVENA MASSAGE
Hershesons
APPLYING SCIENCE TO PERSONAL TRAINING Using the power of genetics to design Personal Training sessions on the most personal level possible!
This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73.
BASED ON RICHMOND HILL, COVERING LONDON ZONES 1-4
WWW.SKPERSONAL .TRAINING
Enquire to see a trainer today, call: 07568 565084
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Transport for London
Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P
Version D 7.2017
TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel
Night Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.
Docklands Light Railway
Correct at time of going to print
International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and south east England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).
Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.
Taxis
GETTING AROUND
Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.
For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
Trains
You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras
There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The
Congestion Charge
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Ask the
Churchill Arms
CONCIERGE Jamie McDowall
Deputy head concierge at the Savoy hotel shares his top tips for your trip Savoy
What’s your most popular request?
Any romantic ideas?
We receive lots of questions about the theatre. Company, at the Gielgud Theatre, is a great musical and Dolly Parton’s 9 to 5 The Musical at the Savoy Theatre (from 28 Jan) will be fun!
Sip Champagne on a private river cruise with Thames Limo, dine at Clos Maggiore and drink in the Savoy’s Beaufort Bar.
Any hidden gems? See treasures at The London Silver Vaults and Winston Churchill memorabilia at The Churchill Arms pub, which serves great Thai food near Notting Hill. James Bond buffs should also visit the London Film Museum.
What’s been your strangest request? A guest planned to propose to his girlfriend on New Year’s Eve, but the ring hadn’t arrived. Our pastry team created a chocolate ring instead. She said yes!
Thames Limo
What can visitors see outside of London?
What makes your hotel special?
Bath has 2,000 years of Roman history, stunning architecture and spas. Enjoy afternoon tea in The Royal Crescent Hotel.
How can visitors see London in a day?
Afternoon tea at the Savoy. We offer one based on the children’s book The Tiger who Came to Tea, which has a whimsical menu and bespoke china that you can buy from our shop.
Go on a Thames RIB Experience speedboat; climb The O2 with Up at The O2, and whizz down the world’s longest and tallest tunnel slide, ArcelorMittal Orbit.
ArcelorMittal Orbit
THE CHURCHILL ARMS © THE CHURCHILL ARMS; THAMES LIMO COURTESY OF THAMES LIMO; JAMIE MCDOWALL AND SAVOY INTERIOR © SAVOY HOTEL; ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT © ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT; TUBE SIGN © ISTOCK
We house London’s first electric lift; our first artist-in-residence was Claude Monet; The American Bar is world-famous and we host carvery classes in London’s secondoldest restaurant – Simpson’s in the Strand.
Car hire
On foot
Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.
It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.80. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am). Adult £19.80; child (5-15) £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.
Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Which quintessential English experience should visitors not miss?
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours, and the first 30 mins of travel are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ Victoria. D4. coaches
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers. There is also a digital printing and copy service. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines
The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71
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PERFECT DAY Jacqueline Wilson AUTHOR Wilson is a popular children’s author. Her books include Hetty Feather, The Story of Tracy Beaker and Double Act. A portrait of her has been unveiled in The Foundling Museum
Jacqueline Wilson
Which are your favourite buildings? My all-time favourite is St Pancras Station. As a child I thought it was like a Gothic castle and I have a taste for Victorian buildings.
St Pancras Station
Olivelli
Which cafés do you like? I like Maison Bertaux on Greek Street – I used to go there every Saturday. In those days Derek Jarman [the late film director] used to come in and have a cup of coffee. I never said hello to him but I used to think: ‘Ooh! There’s Derek Jarman.’ It has a lovely atmosphere.
Portrait by Saied Dai Isabella Plantation
What museums do you like? The Foundling Museum is heart-touching, memorable and inspirational, because this is where I got my idea for my stories about a foundling child, Hetty Feather. Tell us about your portrait in the museum. I feel that it’s an unusual portrait, because I’m not smiling. I’m not looking like I’m a twee children’s author, but as it’s serious – I like that approach. I found the process enjoyable and I couldn’t be happier with the result. What would you recommend for children? I would take bloodthirsty children around The National Gallery and take them on a trail to see who could spot the most blood – or find the most colours for angel’s wings. Where do you enjoy shopping? I love Peter Harrington for antiquarian books, Hatchards for new ones and Pickering & Chatto for quirky Victorian ones.
The Foundling Museum
Where do you like to drink? My favourite bar – it doesn’t exist now – was at the top of Waterloo Station and they used to have fish in a decorative, very beautiful aquarium. I used to meet someone very special there before we went off on our separate train journeys – like that café in Brief Encounter! I felt sad when it disappeared. Where do you like to eat out? I love The Wolseley, if I’m having a treat. I also like The Providores in Marylebone High Street – they are lovely guys who run it. It offers wonderful cuisine and we’ve had some very special dos there.
What entertainment do you enjoy? I’d be very happy going to a film between 5pm and 8pm, then on to Store Street, near my flat in London, to an Italian called Olivelli. I’d have a cosy meal there and share a bottle of wine – nothing too grand and elaborate. Where would you spend the night? I love the Haymarket Hotel – I hasten to add I’ve never stayed but I have been to events there and it is my ambition to swim there. It has the most wonderful swimming pool. The Foundling Museum, 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk
JACQUELINE WILSON © JAMES JORDAN; DAME JACQUELINE WILSON PORTRAIT BY SAIED DAI © SAIED DAI; ST PANCRAS STATION COURTESY OF ST PANCRAS STATION; OLIVELLI DISHES © OLIVELLI; ISABELLA PLANTATION © ISTOCK; THE FOUNDLING MUSEUM © GG ARCHARD
What’s your favourite green space? Richmond Park: I like the Isabella Plantation, Pen Ponds and I love watching the deer.
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