Where Magazine London July 2018 by Morris Media Network

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

JULY 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

BY ROYAL INVITATION

How to step inside Buckingham Palace

PLUS

SOUNDS OF THE CITY

ALICE IN WONDERLAND

From the BBC Proms to Kew the Music

SPECTACULAR ROOFTOP BARS HÉLÈNE DARROZE’S LONDON HOTSPOTS

Andy Murray

Roger Federer, Serena Williams

WIMBLEDON WINNERS The ultimate guide to the tennis championships, from star players to strawberries and cream

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

July

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

ON THE COVER

It’s time for tennis! Cover image © AELTC

The Guide 24 SIGHTSEEING Buckingham Palace opens its doors again for summer, while Hampton Court Palace wows with its annual flower show. 46 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Browse an exhibition of John Vernon Lord’s illustrations for Lewis Carroll’s books. 54 ENTERTAINMENT Music fans can attend festivals to listen to everyone from Paul Simon to Bruno Mars.

FLOWERS IN A MINI COURTESY OF RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE FLOWER SHOW; IAN MCKELLEN © MANUEL-HARLAN; ALICE’S ADVENTURES IN WONDERLAND © JOHN VERNON LORD; MADISON © JUSTINE TRICKETT; VENUS AND SERENA WILLIAMS © AELTC

66 SHOPPING Take home a reminder of London’s most beautiful buildings with souvenirs inspired by the capital’s iconic architecture.

Best of the month

6 WHERE NOW

14 WIMBLEDON CHAMPIONSHIPS

We take a look at this month’s most exciting events, including Pride in London, the river festival Sail Royal Greenwich, the Prudential RideLondon cycling festival and Art Night, where you can experience contemporary art and performances from dusk until dawn.

Whether it’s strawberries and cream or wearing white, find out the etiquette and traditions of the world’s oldest tennis tournament.

10 HOW TO PROM Get your fix of classical music during the annual BBC Proms festival, which brings global solo artists, choirs and orchestras to the Royal Albert Hall and other grand venues across the capital.

20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Choose sport-inspired gifts and souvenirs, including Wimbledon towels, a framed cricket print and cyclist cufflinks.

90 MY PERFECT DAY Michelin-starred French chef Hélène Darroze from The Connaught shares her top London spots.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

70 DINING TV chef Bryn Williams, who’s cooked for the Queen, has opened a new restaurant in Somerset House. 80 NIGHTLIFE See the sights while you sip cocktails, Pimm’s and craft beers at London’s hidden rooftop bars. 84 WELLBEING Swap your hotel gym for a yoga class on a pretty roof garden, up The Shard or on Tower Bridge’s glass walkway. 86 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips on how to make the most of your trip. 88 MAP A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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TOT_WhereLondonJULY18_251x118mm_310518.qxp_Layout 1 31/05/2018 14:58 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

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Vol. No. 44 Issue No. 7 ISSN 0951 323X

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Welcome

Anyone for tennis?

WIMBLEDON IMAGE © AELTC

There’s nothing quite like summer in London. It’s a chance to see the city in its best light, and places from rooftops to parks in new and inspiring ways. You don’t have to be a member of the royal family or a politician to visit Buckingham Palace. This month, it opens with a special exhibition featuring Prince Charles’ favourite artworks from the Royal Collection. You might not bump into the Queen, but the summer opening will give you a chance to peek inside one of the world’s most famous buildings (p. 24). Wimbledon celebrates one of Britain’s most established sports: tennis. So if you don’t know your Boris Becker from your Billie Jean King, read our feature on p. 14 – it will fill you in on the key players as well as the etiquette of the game. Whether you like classical or pop, there’s music for everyone in London this summer. The BBC Proms (p. 10), the world’s biggest classical music event, takes place, while Hyde Park and Somerset House welcome stars from Bruno Mars to Paul Simon (p. 54). Few chefs have had a cartoon character inspired by them. Hélène Darroze is so well-known, however, that the Oscar-winning film Ratatouille based culinary heroine Colette on her. If you want a meal to remember, visit Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, her two Michelin-starred French restaurant. Darroze tells us her favourite London spots on p. 90. Don’t forget to send us your snaps on social media. Have a lovely summer!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

Billie Jean King playing at Wimbledon in 1977

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

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Get swept away by the exciting events taking place this month, from Sail Royal Greenwich on the River Thames to the Pride Parade on the streets of London

SAIL ROYAL GREENWICH WEDNESDAY 4–SUNDAY 8 JULY

Fancy an old-fashioned trip down the River Thames? Cruise down our famous river in a classic tall ship, during the annual Sail Royal Greenwich festival. Expect an international array of these huge ships, best known for their high masts and large, striking sails. Each vessel sets off from Royal Arsenal Pier in the east, sailing down the Thames and taking in breathtaking views. www.sailroyalgreenwich.co.uk

JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE MONDAY 9 & WEDNESDAY 11 JULY

Justin Timberlake has come a long way since he was part of the Mickey Mouse Club as a child. This month he brings his Man of the Woods tour to The O2 arena. The sets are exciting, from a campfire on stage to a disco dancefloor. Expect to hear hit songs including Can’t Stop the Feeling, SexyBack and Like I Love You. www.theo2.co.uk

PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON SATURDAY 28–SUNDAY 29 JULY

Thousands of cyclists, from top professionals to families, descend on the capital for the annual Prudential RideLondon cycling festival. Celebrating the humble bike, events range from a mass ride for all ages through the city’s traffic-free streets on Saturday, to a London to Surrey race, ending back on The Mall, on Sunday. It’s all part of the Mayor of London and Transport for London’s initiative to encourage people to cycle safely and more often. www.prudentialridelondon.co.uk

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★★★★★

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PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter

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T BURT BACHARACH FRIDAY 6–SATURDAY 7 JULY

Magic Moments, I Say a Little Prayer and Walk on By are just some of Burt Bacharach’s hits – the Grammy and Academy Award-winning songwriter is behind 48 Top 10s. He has penned songs for Dionne Warwick, Tom Jones, Aretha Franklin and Dusty Springfield, among others. Bacharach, who was born in Kansas City, turned 90 this year. To celebrate his career, he is joined by an orchestra to bring his classic songs to the Southbank Centre’s Royal Festival Hall. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

ART NIGHT SATURDAY 7 JULY

Locations along the south of the River Thames, including the South Bank and Battersea Power Station, are transformed for this annual arts festival. From 6pm until 6am, this free event has multimedia installations, video projections, musical performances and virtual reality experiences. Art Night guides are on hand to help you locate each sight, which range from a musical red-and-blue gypsy caravan suspended from a crane, to a big procession along the route by Italian visual artist Marinella Senatore. Grab yourself a strong coffee, as it’s going to be a busy night. www.artnight.london

PRIDE IN LONDON PARADE SATURDAY 7 JULY

Pride takes place in many major cities, and is an annual joy juggernaut that has grown from humble beginnings to the huge celebration of today’s diverse LGBT+ culture. Indeed, the parade now serves as a glittering closing ceremony to London’s month-long Pride in London festival, which began in June and has been filled with a programme of theatre, cabaret, exhibitions and events. The parade itself starts at noon, covering the West End and ending in Trafalgar Square, where you’ll encounter drag queens, rainbow flags and dancing police officers. www.prideinlondon.org 8 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018

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JULY for drama? Exit the King starts 1 Looking today at the National Theatre the queue for the first day of the 2 Join Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships thousands of artworks at the Royal 3 See Academy’s Summer Exhibition American Independence Day at 4 Mark a special service at St Paul’s Cathedral the crowds on the River Thames to 5 Join watch races in the Henley Royal Regatta music stars including Roger Waters 6 Catch at British Summer Time in Hyde Park Stormzy, Migos, French Montana and 7 See other big names at the Wireless Festival the final day of the RHS Hampton 8 It’s Court Palace Flower Show singer Justin Timberlake 9 Superstar rocks The O2 arena tonight stars in a spectacular setting at 10 Watch Kew the Music, which kicks off tonight the final few days of The Courtauld 11 Catch Gallery’s Artists at Work exhibition back to 1860s Siam at The King 12 Travel and I at the London Palladium the opening day of Life in the Dark 13 It’s at the Natural History Museum your marks, get set, go! The Athletics 14 On World Cup begins at the London Stadium Ian McKellen in a new performance 15 Catch of King Lear at the Duke of York’s Theatre the Serpentine Gallery’s Summer 16 Visit Pavilion, designed by Frida Escobedo inside the dressing rooms on a tour 17 See of Emirates Stadium, home of Arsenal FC ZSL London Zoo in a whole new 18 See light at the after-hours Zoo Nights back millions of years at Dinosaurs 19 Travel in the Wild at Greenwich Peninsula under the sea with Sea Creatures 20 Go at the Royal Horticultural Halls the first day of the inaugural 21 It’s London National Park City Week you love street food, visit KERB’s 22 IfGuiltiest Pleasures in Granary Square Enjoy a night of dramatic Russian pieces 23 at the BBC Proms at the Royal Albert Hall tickets to Buckingham Palace’s 24 Buy State Rooms for its summer opening women’s suffrage at the Houses 25 Celebrate of Parliament’s exhibition Voice and Vote to Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club to see 26 Head the Average White Band on stage global sporting action at the 27 Watch Hockey Women’s World Cup in Stratford your final chance to see As You Like It 28 It’s at the Open Air Theatre in Regent’s Park and the Art of Ancient Greece 29 Rodin closes today at The British Museum a clear day, whizz up The View from 30 IfTheit’sShard to catch stunning vistas an Agatha Christie play: The Mousetrap 31 See and Witness for the Prosecution are both on

PREVIOUS PAGE: SAIL ROYAL GREENWICH © SAIL ROYAL GREENWICH; JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE COURTESY OF THE O2; PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON COURTESY OF PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON. THIS PAGE: BURT BACHARACH © ERIC RAY DAVIDSON; GOODWOOD FESTIVAL OF SPEED COURTESY OF GOODWOOD FESTIVAL OF SPEED; PRIDE IN LONDON © MOYNA TALCER

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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WHERE NOW | BBC PROMS

Face the Music Hannah Nepil finds out how the BBC Proms, one of the world’s biggest classical music festivals, have created a season for everyone

hey go on for eight weeks every summer. They’re on the TV and radio and host musicians from all around the world. Yet the Proms, or BBC Promenade Concerts as they are more formally known, started off with a straightforward aim: ‘to train the public by easy stages’. So said the impresario Robert Newman when he founded the festival, back in 1895, hoping to replicate the relaxed atmosphere of the promenade concerts that took place in London’s 18th-century pleasure gardens. Henry Wood, who was appointed as the festival’s sole conductor, took his words to heart, programming popular works and allowing the audiences to eat, drink and smoke in the Queen’s Hall

in Langham Place, where the concerts initially took place. More than a century later, the Proms have kept their reputation for cosy informality, despite being ensconced at the enormous, 5,000-seat Royal Albert Hall since 1941, when the Queen’s Hall was destroyed during an air raid. But they have also grown into one of the biggest classical music festivals in the world. Almost every major international orchestra, conductor and soloist has performed there, and the increasingly diverse programme has something for everyone, combining main evening and late-night concerts, chamber music Proms at Cadogan Hall, a series of Proms Plus events and, in the past few years, concerts in unexpected and far-flung places.

BUYING TICKETS Bookings can be made in person at the Royal Albert Hall box office, online, over the phone or by post, where you can create and submit your own Proms Plan. Those hoping to catch several Proms might consider a Season Pass, which guarantees a standing place at each concert. Advance tickets sell quickly, but if you miss out, don’t panic: there are returns and up to 1,350 standing tickets are available to buy on the day of each concert for just £6. Some are released between 9am and noon and the rest are sold in person when the doors open, one hour before each performance. Demand for these ‘Promming tickets’ is high, especially on the Last Night, for which die-hard fans queue overnight.

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Inside the Royal Albert Hall

Orchestra at the NYO Teen Hangout at Imperial College (4 Aug), and budding young artists can do some music-making of their own at one of the daytime Proms Sing events scattered throughout the festival.

LATENIGHT PROMS Taking place after the main evening concert, these atmospheric events serve up some of the festival’s most left-field fare, and this year there’s a strong focus on world music. Havana Meets Kingston (31 Jul) fuses the sound-worlds of contemporary Cuba and Jamaica. New York: Sound of a City showcases artists from the Big Apple and the sounds on New York’s streets, from DIY indie music to feminist rap (8 Aug).

UNUSUAL LOCATIONS Over the past few years, the festival has started to embrace new and unconventional venues, some of which are located outside the capital. This season the Proms returns to Camden’s Roundhouse to celebrate the London Sinfonietta’s 50th birthday (21 Jul), before travelling beyond London – to Lincoln’s Drill Hall – for a performance of Stravinsky’s The Soldier’s Tale (4 Aug). Plus, there’s a chance to see Alexandra Palace’s long-abandoned Victorian Theatre, as its multi-million-pound restoration approaches completion, at a performance of Gilbert and Sullivan’s Trial by Jury (1 Sep). This comic opera was written in 1875, the year the beautiful theatre first opened. ▲

ROYAL ALBERT HALL © BBC/SANJEET RIAT

FOR THE FAMILY If you’re hoping to introduce your children to the world of classical music, the Proms are the perfect way to start. Among this year’s family-friendly highlights is the Ten Pieces matinee Prom (29 Jul), in which CBBC’s Naomi Wilkinson explores the characters and stories behind some much-loved orchestral pieces. Elsewhere, Sir Simon Rattle conducts the London Symphony Orchestra in a performance of Ravel’s fairy-tale ballet Mother Goose,, followed by L’enfant et les Sortilèges,, his magical opera about a child who is reprimanded by the objects in his room that he has been destroying (18 Aug). Teenagers can get to know members of the National Youth

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WHERE NOW | BBC PROMS

HIGHLIGHTS Marking the centenary of the World War I armistice is Five Telegrams, a new orchestral and choral piece about communication from the Front Lines. It’s by genre-hopping composer Anna Meredith, whose other output includes a beatboxer concerto and a piece for orchestra involving no instruments except the players’ bodies.

PROM 3: BBC Young Musician 40th Anniversary (15 Jul)

PROMS IN THE PARK Coinciding with the Last Night of the Proms inside the Royal Albert Hall, these huge open-air concerts are an informal and high-spirited way to celebrate the festival finale, and are spread across the UK. In London, the place to be is Hyde Park, where several musical stars join presenter Michael Ball, conductor Richard Balcombe and the BBC Concert Orchestra for an evening of entertainment. In previous seasons, the event has linked up to the Royal Albert Hall via a big screen for the final rousing singalong. This year the Last Night anthems will be performed live on the Hyde Park stage, before the traditional firework finale. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. www.bbc.co.uk/proms

The BBC Young Musician competition has been launching artists’ careers since 1968. This year’s finalists join forces with previous winners and finalists, including violinist Nicola Benedetti and the royal wedding cellist Sheku Kanneh-Mason, in music ranging from Saint-Saëns’ Carnival of the Animals to Fantasia on the Young Musician Theme – a world premiere by Bafta-winning British composer Ben Foster.

includes Prokofiev’s explosive Third Piano Concerto, with the young Chinese pianist Yuja Wang.

PROM 75: Last Night of the Proms (8 Sep) This most famous of annual parties in classical music returns under the baton of Sir Andrew Davis, former chief conductor of the BBC Symphony Orchestra. The programme includes a new commission by Roxanna Panufnik (one of 24 female composers being championed by this year’s Proms), as well as old favourites: Elgar’s Land of Hope and Glory, Parry’s Jerusalem and Thomas Arne’s rousing Rule, Britannia!

PROM 39: West Side Story (11 Aug) Leonard Bernstein, the celebrated American composer and conductor, would have turned 100 this year. The Proms pays tribute with the first complete UK concert performance of West Side Story, his big-hearted, jazz-infused musical inspired by Romeo and Juliet.

PROM 66: Berlin Philharmonic and Kirill Petrenko (1 Sep) The Berlin Philharmonic – widely considered to be the world’s finest orchestra – gives its first London performance under its incoming chief conductor, Kirill Petrenko. The programme

Clockwise from top left: inside the Royal Albert Hall; Last Night of the Proms; Jules Buckley; Royal Albert Hall

ROYAL ALBERT HALL INTERIOR © FIELDEN CLEGG BRADLEY STUDIOS; LAST NIGHT OF THE PROMS © BBC/CHRIS CHRISTODOULOU; JULES BUCKLEY © SUKI BUCKLEY; ROYAL ALBERT HALL EXTERIOR © ISTOCK

PROM 1: First Night of the Proms (13 Jul)

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WHERE NOW | WIMBLEDON

Polish those polite clapping skills – it’s time for Wimbledon. As the most British of all sporting events returns, Neil Simpson finds out how you can secure tickets, spot a royal and enjoy strawberries and cream

HISTORY Wimbledon, you say? You must mean the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club. The southwest London club’s full name is rather long because the club was founded for croquet only, in 1869. Tennis soon became more popular, and the first championship was held eight years later, in July 1877. The Championships began life on rented meadowland on Wimbledon’s Worple Road, moving to its current home on Church Road in 1922. With room for 13,500 people when it opened, many feared the new site was too big and would become an embarrassment. They could not have been more wrong. In 1937, the BBC was a year old and its first live sports coverage was of Wimbledon, with 30 minutes of Centre Court action every day.

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ALL PHOTOS © AELTC

Clockwise from this image: Centre Court; Billie Jean King in 1967; Bjorn Björg and John McEnroe; Serena and Venus Williams

It was watched by the several thousand people in north London who lived close to the transmitters and had a television. The Queen visited Wimbledon for the first time in 1957 to watch the men’s doubles final between Lew Hoad and Neale Fraser. She has attended the Championships four times, but in 2016 she passed on her patronage to the Duchess of Cambridge, who watched the men’s final with Prince William last year. The famous dress code was made official in 1963, dictating that players must dress ‘predominantly in white’ – it was upgraded to ‘almost entirely in white’ in 1995. Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton was barred from Centre Court’s Royal Box in 2015 because he wasn’t wearing a shirt and tie. Instead, he had to watch Novak Djokovic win his third

Wimbledon title from a hospitality area, missing out on the chance to sit with Benedict Cumberbatch and Anna Wintour.

TICKETS Watching a match at the world’s most famous lawn tennis club isn’t as tricky as you might think. During the tournament, tickets are set aside every day for the No.1, No.2 and Centre Courts (except for the final four days on Centre Court). Thousands of Grounds Passes are available, which allow access to unreserved seats on Courts 3-18 and to the large, outdoor screen on ‘Henman Hill’ which shows the top matches. The earlier you arrive before the grounds open at 10.30am, the more likely it is that you will get a ticket. Wimbledon advises

you to get there at least two hours before, but many people queue far earlier, especially for the coveted Centre Court tickets. One ticket only is offered to each person as they reach the front. Only one bag per person is allowed and hard-sided items, including boxes and flasks, are banned. Inside, the Ticket Resale Booth opens at around 3pm, which is important to know if you have a Grounds Pass only. Spectators who have already left Centre Court for the day hand back their tickets here, and you can queue to buy them for £15 each. If queueing isn’t your style, there will be a public ballot for 2019 tickets (open from 1 Sep to 31 Dec), or you could treat yourself to a hospitality package, which go on sale after the Championships finish. w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 15

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WHERE NOW | WIMBLEDON

Clockwise from left: Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in the Royal Box; ball boys and ball girls ready for action; Rufus the Harris hawk

EPIC BATTLES Björn Borg vs John McEnroe, 1980. The rivalry between this pair was legendary, perhaps due to their vast difference in temperament: Borg was famously cool, calm and collected, while American McEnroe was the opposite. During this men’s singles final, the fourth-set tie-break was a staggering 22 minutes long. Eventually, Sweden’s Borg triumphed and claimed his fifth Wimbledon title. In 1985, Boris Becker was just 17 years old when he beat 27-year-old Kevin Curren, which made the German the youngest-ever winner. In 2001, Venus Williams beat her younger sister Serena in the women’s semi-final and went on to become Wimbledon champion. A year later, revenge was sweet for Serena, who was victorious in the women’s singles final for the first time, aged 21. Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal’s match in 2008 is the longest-ever men’s singles final at Wimbledon; the battle continued for four hours, 48 minutes. After losing the previous two Championships to the Swiss maestro, Spain’s Nadal finally won just as night fell. In 2013, it had been 77 years since Britain had produced a champion. The previous year, Brit Andy Murray had made it to the final against Swiss Roger Federer. When Federer won, Murray proved that big boys do cry, breaking down in tears when he delivered his concession speech. So when Murray

won against Serbian Novak Djokovic, after three hours and 10 minutes in soaring heat, it was a moment of national pride – a Brit had finally lifted the trophy.

WIMBLEDON GREATS Wimbledon’s first big name was Brit William Renshaw, who snatched seven titles between 1881 and 1889. His success helped to increase the popularity of tennis and paved the way for the tournament’s current status. In 1938, Californian player Helen Wills Moody became the first woman to win Wimbledon eight times, a record which took 52 years to be broken by Martina Navratilova. Moody’s steely focus on the game earned her the nickname Little Miss Poker Face. Billie Jean King, also from California, became Wimbledon’s most-decorated winner in 1979 with 20 trophies: four mixed doubles titles, six singles and 10 doubles. A fierce advocate for gender equality, King was named among the ‘100 Most Important Americans of the 20th Century’ by LIFE magazine. You are probably familiar with the phrase ‘you cannot be serious!’, but did you know that it was uttered at Wimbledon? Three-time singles champion John McEnroe shouted it furiously at umpire Edward James in 1981, when he failed to call McEnroe’s serve. So, who is the greatest-ever Wimbledonian? That honour belongs to Martina Navratilova: the American was crowned Ladies’ Singles Champion nine times between 1978 and 1990. Roger Federer and Helen Wills Moody are next, both claiming the singles title eight times each. All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. www.wimbledon.com

The tournament puts 2,200 catering staff to work, making Wimbledon the largest single annual sport catering operation in Europe. In 2017, spectators consumed 33,000kg of English strawberries; 10,000 litres of fresh cream; 17,000 portions of fish and chips and 29,000 bottles of Champagne. The fastest serve ever recorded was the American player Taylor Dent’s 148mph effort in 2010. Venus Williams holds the record for women – she belted a ball at 129mph in 2008. King George VI is the only member of the royal family to have competed, during Wimbledon’s 50th jubilee year in 1926. Thirty years old and not yet king, he played in the Gentlemen’s Doubles, but didn’t make it past the first round. Wimbledon employs Rufus the Harris hawk to drive away the local pigeons. Rufus flies around the grounds at 9am, before they open to the public.

ALL PHOTOS © AELTC; STRAWBERRIES © ISTOCK

You can take a tour of the grounds, including Centre Court, throughout the year and visit the Wimbledon Museum. On display are trophies as well as tennis kits and equipment used by champions. During the Championships (2-15 Jul), the museum is only open to ticketholders (except on 8 Jul if no games are scheduled), while tours are suspended until 21 Jul.

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BRIDGE © OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE; THE FUTURE STARTS HERE EXHIBITION © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; CHELSEA MANNING © HEATHER DEWEY-HAGBORG AND FRIDMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK CITY; TWO IMAGES OF INSIDE THE EXHIBITION COURTESY OF V&A; DRIVERLESS CAR – SEDRIC © VOLKSWAGEN GROUP FUTURE CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES

WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Supported by Volkswagen Group.

‘

his trendspotting exhibition, winningly and inventively designed to resist minimalist, brightly-lit clichés about the future, instead guides you with ethical and speculative questions.’ (The Telegraph) The Future Starts Here is a major exhibition celebrating the power of design in shaping the world of tomorrow, bringing together more than 100 incredible objects – either newly released or in development – that point towards where society might be heading. From smart appliances to satellites, artificial intelligence to internet culture, this ‘mind-boggling, parameterexpanding display’ (The Times) may seem straight out of science fiction, but they are

real, produced by studios and laboratories around the world. See what’s next from major corporations such as Google and Apple, alongside the alternative futures presented by smaller institutions and independent designers tackling issues from the strain on the environment, the impact of digital connectivity on solitariness and even projects tackling human immortality. Marvel at the latest innovations in robotics and prosthetics and witness the increasingly blurred lines between humanity and technology. On public display for the first time is Facebook’s Aquila, part of a solar-powered aircraft that’s in development as part of Facebook’s efforts to bring affordable internet to unconnected regions around the world.

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OF V&A; DRIVERLESS CAR – SEDRIC © VOLKSWAGEN GROUP FUTURE CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES

“

THIS SHOW IS FUN. TEENAGERS WILL LOVE IT. – The Times

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Clockwise from top: Luchtsingel pedestrian bridge in Rotterdam; The Future Starts Here exhibition; DNA portrait of Chelsea Manning; Sedric the driverless car by the Volkswagen Group Future Center Europe; in the exhibition; dummy antenna around a fake tree by Dutch artist Jalila Essaidi

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Consider what impact these projects might have on your body, your home, your work, your planet – even your love life! While what’s on display suggest a certain future, it is not yet determined. The future we get is up to us.

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#TheFutureStartsHere The Future Starts Here runs until 4 November 2018 in the V&A’s Sainsbury Gallery, a new purpose-built subterranean gallery and one of the largest temporary exhibition spaces in Europe. www.vam.ac.uk/future w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

MAKING A RACKET Official Wimbledon souvenirs Wimbledon Championships Logo Cap, £23, and Wimbledon Men’s Championship Towel, £30, Wimbledon Shop, All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE

FROM LONDON

PUT YOUR BEST FOOT FORWARD Collect Pandora’s charms Running Shoe Charm, £23, Pandora, 465 Oxford St, W1C 2AU

As a summer of sporting events begins, from Wimbledon to the cycle races, here are gifts inspired by our beautiful games

GET ON YOUR BIKE Created by the British label Ted Baker Stainless Steel and Enamel Cyclist Cufflinks, £55, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

SPORTING GLORY John Lewis stocks sporting prints, from boxer Muhammad Ali enjoying supper in 1965 to Jacky Al-Samarraie’s work Muhammad Ali, Framed, £255, and Jacky Al-Samarraie’s Cricket Player, Framed, £35, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

ALL PRODUCTS COURTESY OF THE STOCKISTS; WOMAN IMAGE © ISTOCK

WATCH THIS SPACE Connect your mobile phone to your watch Apple Watch Series 3, £429, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

TIME OUT A watch created to support children’s charities IWC Schaffhausen’s Da Vinci Chronograph Edition Sport Watch, £11,250, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

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DESTINATION WESTFIELD ULTIMATE SHOPPING LONDON

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A RIVERSIDE DESTI Step away from the hustle and bustle and visit central London’s only marina, St Katharine Docks, for food, films and festivals and, now, an intersection between past and present with multiple bars, restaurants and shops all surrounding central London’s only marina. All in all, it’s somewhere that deserves a little birthday party. And that’s exactly what we’ve done. As a landmark year for St Katharine Docks, we’ve organised a summer that’s jam-packed with events for everyone to enjoy.

ST KATS BIG SCREEN PRESENTS: WIMBLEDON 2 Jul-15 Jul

STREETFOOD MARKET Every Friday, 11.30am-2pm

FLOATING FILM FESTIVAL 16 Jul-29 Jul

Visit our weekly food market with 15 of the capital’s best street-food traders to choose from. With a selection of regularly changing sellers, you can visit time and time again and you’ll never get bored.

If you’re more of a film buff than a sports buff, the Floating Film Festival is returning. This time, there’ll be two weeks’ worth of silver-screen scorchers on our Floating Pontoon, with tickets on sale via Eventbrite.

If you were left empty-handed in the Wimbledon ballot, then there’s no need to worry. We’ll be showing big-screen coverage of this year’s Wimbledon Tennis Championships complete with deckchairs, and the obligatory strawberries and Pimm’s. What better way to cheer on Andy Murray?

IMAGES © LUCY YOUNG

f you couldn’t tell from the blue plaques, St Katharine Docks are by no means a recent development. To the contrary, this remarkable pocket of London has sailed on for almost two centuries. On 25 October 1828, St Katharine Docks were opened. And, unsurprisingly, it wasn’t a low-key event. As the lock designed by Scottish civil engineer Thomas Telford was unveiled, the good ship Elizabeth entered with every national flag rigged to its masts. The world had arrived at St Katharine Docks. As we approach the Docks’ 190th birthday this year – and that’s no mean feat, we’re sure you’ll agree – we’ll be celebrating the various incarnations the Docks have seen over the past two centuries: international import hub, Modernist architecture revival

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | WHERE NOW

TINATION CLASSIC BOAT FESTIVAL 7-9 Sep And as summer starts to close, we’ll be visiting St Katharine’s roots with the Classic Boat Festival. You’ll find more than 40 vintage sailing and motor boats to explore with waterside activities such as canoeing and stand-up paddleboarding for the whole family to enjoy. There’s plenty of street-food stalls, too, plus fun activities to keep children entertained. For more information, or to be kept up-to-date with our exciting events programme, please refer to our seasonal guides which can be collected from our Marina Reception, or visit our website www.skdocks.co.uk. We can’t wait to see you there. w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 23

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Enter the palace There’s no denying the thrill of walking up The Mall as Buckingham Palace emerges ahead of you, or watching the centuries-old Changing the Guard ceremony taking place on the other side of the palace gate. If only that pesky gate wasn’t locked all the time. But the doors to Buckingham Palace are now within reach, as everyone can visit the State Rooms at the annual summer opening (from 21 Jul). This tradition began in 1993 to raise funds for the repair of Windsor Castle, which had been damaged by a fire the previous year. The original plan was for Buckingham Palace to open to the public every summer until 1997, but it proved so popular that it’s now a top tourist attraction. The State Rooms represent the most public areas of the Queen’s home, where the royal family welcome visitors during State and official occasions. These rooms don’t uncover Her Majesty’s most private moments, but do reveal her most grandiose.

A highlight is the ballroom, the largest State Room, boasting a soaring ceiling. Just off the ballroom is the 47m-long Picture Gallery, which is filled with exquisite paintings sourced from the Royal Collection. This summer, however, it’s due to display even more art than usual. To celebrate the 70th birthday of Prince Charles, the Prince and Patron exhibition (from 21 Jul) displays his favourite pieces from the Royal Collection, such as a dramatic wool, silk and silver-thread cloak, taken from Napoleon following his defeat at the Battle of Waterloo. These treasures are exhibited alongside artworks by young artists, each of whom has benefited from arts charities founded by the Prince. As you might imagine, the State Rooms are also filled with priceless pieces of furniture wherever you look, including Queen Victoria’s gilded mahogany grand piano, made in 1856 by France’s Sébastien Érard. The tour ends as you walk through

the beautiful garden, which includes a lake, tennis court and café. Tickets to the State Rooms sell quickly, so we don’t recommend waiting until the day of your visit. You can book a time to visit via the Royal Collection website, where you have the option to also arrange a 45-minute Garden Highlights tour. Finally, try to be near Buckingham Palace on 10 July, when the RAF is due to fly overhead to mark its centenary, with a skilled display of aviation excellence. This dramatic sight is truly fit for a queen. For full listing, turn to p. 28

PRINCE & PATRON EXHIBIT © TODD-WHITE ART PHOTOGRAPHY; BUCKINGHAM PALACE © ANDREW HOLT/THE ROYAL COLLECTION © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2018

It’s time to step inside a famous royal residence again, as Buckingham Palace throws open its doors to the public, says Neil Simpson

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Visit the largest LEGO Store in the World! LEGO Store London Leicester Square • Visit the world’s FIRST LEGO Mosaic Maker. To create a personal LEGO Mosaic book your in-store experience at - https://storebooking.lego.com/ • See the unique London inspired LEGO Builds • Discover the broadest selection, exclusive and hard to find LEGO sets including the LEGO London Bus (10258) and the Exclusive Minifigure Lester (50308) • Enjoy hands-on play opportunities • Join the VIP Program and experience the VIP treatment. Sign up at shop.LEGO.com/VIP

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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art as well as medals and shields in the basement gallery. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, which was designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. MonFri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Cruise control The best way to discover London is by the river, so during your visit you’ll need MBNA Thames Clippers (p. 37); the city’s fastest and most frequent river service covers all major locations. The fleet takes in Putney in the west to Woolwich in the east, including special sightseeing routes, plus Tate to Tate, which travels directly between the Tate Britain and Tate Modern galleries. This month, the Clippers roam the river for Art Night (7 Jul), as the official boat service for the event. With special exhibitions and events taking place all night at spots along the river, MBNA Thames Clippers is running a route which covers each location. If you want to experience something unique during your London trip, embarking on a late-night art hunt via the river will take some beating.

Banqueting House

MBNA THAMES CLIPPERS © MICKEY LEE (THEBIGLONDON.COM)

This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but check before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

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GET CLOSER THAN YOU EVER IMAGINED

ON GREENWICH PENINSULA, LONDON | @DinosInTheWild

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NORTH GREENWICH | DINOSAURSINTHEWILD.COM @DinosInTheWild

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SIGHTSEEING Battersea Park Children’s Zoo

The British Library

Zoo inside the huge park with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). 24 Jul: Snake Day. Here’s your chance to meet a real snake, make a snake puppet and hear a special story, 11am-12.30pm & 1.30pm-3.30pm. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The world’s largest library has a great permanent collection as well as a programme of temporary exhibitions. To 21 Oct: Windrush: Songs in a Strange Land. To commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Empire Windrush landing (a ship carrying hundreds of migrants to London), discover the Caribbeans who arrived through poetry, novels and musical recordings. To 28 Aug: James Cook: The Voyages. Explore original maps, artworks and journals from Captain Cook’s historic journeys to the Antarctic Circle, New Zealand and Australia. To 5 Aug: Karl and Eleanor Marx. Exploring the links between the two political activists and The British Library,

where they used to work. Mon-Thu 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms and huge grounds. From 21 Jul: State Rooms Opening. Normally closed to the public, the annual summer opening lets the public tour the State Rooms and garden (p. 24). 10 Jul: RAF100 Flypast. Fighter planes fly over Buckingham Palace to mark 100 years of the Royal Air Force. Daily 9.30am-7pm; book via the Royal Collection website. Adult £24; child £13.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk/buckinghampalace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, who during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, march to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical plants in glasshouses. 8 Jul: Living Medicine: Sleep, Anxiety & Fatigue. One-day workshop covering how our nerves and hormones function. Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.25. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens See Old Masters on display in this manor house, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park.

See heroes and villains inside The O2’s exhibition (p. 34)

DOUBLE FACE © DC EXHIBITION: DAWN OF SUPER HEROES/THE O2

To 9 Jul:

Giffords Circus. This year, the touring troupe is recreating the early days of English circus. 8 Jul: Summer Party. Music, dancing and food. House Wed-Mon 10am-5pm; gardens daily 7am-dusk; conservatory daily 10am3pm. House entry adult £7.50; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

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SIGHTSEEING Cutty Sark

Dennis Severs’ House

Dinosaurs in the Wild

This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck, enjoy afternoon tea under the hull or take part in the lively programme of family-friendly events. Visitors will get a taste of life on the ocean waves, including the chance to take the ship’s wheel and learn how to steer 963 tons of Victorian tea clipper through storms and high seas. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late American artist Dennis Severs, a Grade II-listed Georgian terraced house in Spitalfields. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. The rooms are arranged as if they are in use and the occupants have only just left – visitors will feel as if they have entered a time capsule. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 0207247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

This immersive, family-friendly attraction takes visitors on a hair-raising journey back in time to the age of the dinosaurs. Through simulations, theatre and interactive exhibitions and sets, see prehistoric animals in cages, a dinosaur autopsy and a research station, all while learning more about these creatures. Allow approximately 90 minutes for a visit. Tue-Sun 10am-4.30pm. Adult £33; child £28.50. Advance booking recommended. www.dinosaursinthewild.com. West Parkside, SE10 0BE. T: 0844-854 1355. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, which was first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. Its current exhibition, London: A Poem, explores Johnson’s first independently published work, including its rare first edition and images of 1730s London. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. 11 Jul: The Lord Chamberlain’s Men Present The Tempest. This all-male theatre group performs Shakepeare’s fantastical play in the gardens; play starts 7.30pm, £10-£15 tickets available on the day. 23-27 Jul: Discoveries and Inventions. Children can take a trip through history’s most exciting inventions and then design something themselves. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

THE ULTIMATE FOOTBALL EXPERIENCE GO BEHIND THE SCENES AT STAMFORD BRIDGE

Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London and is now a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and a programme of themed tours. 5 & 15 Jul: Garden Walk. Guided tour of the garden and the rare plants that grow there; check for times. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon-5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

To book please call 0371 811 1955, email tours@chelseafc.com or visit chelseafc.com/stadium-tours

Go Ape Alexandra Palace A treetop obstacle course for kids with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. Daily; check online for times prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

Go Ape Battersea Park

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For full terms and conditions, please visit www.chelseafc.com

Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while safely attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Open daily; closed 3 Jul. Please check online for time and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

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SIGHTSEEING Ham House and Gardens

Handel & Hendrix in London

HMS Belfast

One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses is close to the Thames and has gardens that are said to be haunted. Free 30-min architecture tour daily at noon; free 30-min kitchen garden tours daily at 2pm. From 13 Jul: Women and Power at Ham House: Duchess, Daughter, Socialite, Spy? Discover the life of Elizabeth Murray, Duchess of Lauderdale. 8 Jul: The Lord Chamberlain’s Men Present The Tempest. This all-male theatre group performs Shakespeare’s play in the gardens. From 7pm, £8-£16. General admission daily noon-4pm; garden admission daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.national trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

The former homes of both the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. 7 Jul: Listen to the Rameau Ensemble and a soprano as they lead French Baroque singing classes, from 10.45am. 19 Jul: Handel’s New Star: Giovanni Carestini. Joanna Harries sings the work of Handel and Carestini. £12; from 1pm. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live Baroque music every Wed and Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm. Check online for full details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Climb up and down the ladders to explore the nine decks, and enjoy 360-degree views from the Flag Desk. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

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Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building which is also a royal palace. To 6 Oct: Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament. Marking 100 years since the first women were given the right to vote in the UK, this interactive exhibition recreates long-lost parts of Parliament and explores the history of women in the House of Commons and the House of Lords (p. 37). Tours every Sat, as well as Mon-Fri from 26 Jul to 31 Aug only. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ceiling carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House

North Greenwich

This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. The Keats and Milton: Paradise Lost exhibition provides an opportunity to see the poet’s response to one of the greatest epic poems ever written, by reading the notes he scribbled across Milton’s verse. The third Sunday of every month is Family Day, during which you can participate in craft, music and poetry activities, even if you don’t have an admission ticket. Check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tour at 3pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead. This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, a just-expanded collection dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adam’s interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

IMAGE © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD

Kensington Palace

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KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour! The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun, too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up... which is why it hosts occasional adult nights. Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

To 20 Jul: Zoo Nights. Explore the zoo during the evening as you enjoy special exhibitions, music and entertainment; advance online booking essential. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Madame Tussauds The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film series and the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony. Joint tickets

available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, founded in 1826, which has more than 750 species. This is home to an immense range of animals, from endangered Sumatran tigers to gorillas from the African rainforest, and Asiatic lions in realistic surroundings resembling an Indian national park. You can also visit the aquarium, penguin beach and the Attenborough Komodo Dragon House, with a dragon prowling its lair.

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SIGHTSEEING The O2

Old Royal Naval College

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. To 17 Jul: The Heart of Hollywood World Tour. This exhibition in The Quadrant is a showcase for Hollywood memorabilia and includes the original, 45ft-high ‘H’ from the Hollywood sign. Daily from 10am. Adult £23.25; child £12.75. To 9 Sep: Dawn of Super Heroes. Take a look inside the world of DC Comics creations such as Superman, Batman, Wonder Woman and Mr Freeze, with displays of costumes, props, sets and more. Thur-Tue (& Wed 25 Jul) from 9.30am. Tickets £9-£18. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

This Baroque masterpiece, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, is part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site and the home of British naval training. Don’t miss the costumed characters and tours, as well as the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on a 50-minute tour from an elevated observation deck: adult £10; child £5. Check for regular guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. 21-29 Jul: National Park City Week. Join one of two daily, expert-led tours of the park, 11am & 1pm. Adult £8; child £3. Call T: 020-8536 2716 to book. Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

BE PART OF

LONDON’S SKYLINE

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Treetop Walkway offers great views. Following a comprehensive, five-year refurbishment, the Temperate House has just reopened – the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world houses 10,000 temperate plants. Children can follow Gnomus the giant gnome around the Temperate House as he shares stories about the plant collection inside. To 31 Aug: Join the free Temperate Treasures tour daily at noon & 2.30pm, to learn more about Kew’s temperate plants. Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain This Grade I-listed Georgian building houses a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of talks. 2-8 Jul: Summer Science Exhibition. A chance to view 22 exhibits which give an overview of the UK’s current major projects, on topics including climate research, digital innovations and the latest developments in medicine. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Witness daily working life and learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first-ever journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Children will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as the busy programme of art sessions; check online for details. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £11; child £6.40; under-fives free. www.royalcollection.org.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory

BOOK TODAY AND SAVE AT LONDONEYE.COM See londoneye.com for full terms. Save up to 10% when tickets are booked online 24hrs+ in advance. COCA-COLA and the CONTOUR BOTTLE are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company. © 2018 DreamWorks Animation L.L.C. The London Eye is conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects. Content shown has been altered for the sake of communications and some images have been captured with professional cameras. All images and copy are for illustrative purposes only.

The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and see the Prime Meridian Line. To 22 Jul: Astronomy Photographer of the Year. Inspirational space photography. The planetarium has just been refurbished, while its daily programme includes the new show Phantom of the Universe, exploring dark matter and the Big Bang; adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg. co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

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SEA LIFE London

Tower Bridge Exhibition

Tower of London

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the new Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

This breathtaking bridge, which was designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and take part in a yoga class on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Check online for details of when the bridge is lifted to allow vessels to sail through – it is a spectacular sight (usually twice daily). Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). The Last Days of Anne Boleyn. Step back into 1536 and follow the last 17 days of Anne Boleyn, second wife of King Henry VIII, in a new outdoor theatre performance on the South Lawn. Fri-Tue, 11am & 2pm. Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp. org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks. co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and an alfresco café in its courtyard. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. To 31 Aug: Lingering Ghosts. This photography exhibition questions how the UK treats migrants fleeing dangerous lives. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm; 19 Jul 11.15am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its imposing monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 0207246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife, two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is the costumed actor-led tour every Saturday from 11am, which is a dramatic account of life at Stafford Terrace based on old diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm-5.30pm, or late tour from 7pm on third Wed of every month. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Discover beauty Visit the world’s greatest botanic garden

Only 30 minutes from central London Friends of Kew go free Kew Gardens Kew Bridge

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SIGHTSEEING Up at The O2

The View from The Shard

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Climb and Yoga Experience. Enjoy a 90-minute climb experience and a 50-minute yoga class on the roof. The Museum of London Docklands and Up at The O2. Climb over the roof with a Museum of London Docklands guide, then enjoy a talk at the summit on the Docklands’ history. Check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit The Shard again for free. Choose from different experiences, including a Champagne Experience, a Private Guided Tour and the Day & Night Tour. Alternatively, you can make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco on 14 or 28 Jul from 10pm (£37.50). Daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £24.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour – it is a fabulous insight into filmmaking. Visitors can witness iconic sets from the film series including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. To 22 Jul: Behind the Seams. This extra one-hour experience introduces visitors to the work of the costume department. Weekends only. Adult £65; child £55 (includes general admission). To 23 Sep: The Goblet of Fire. See the goblet as it returns to the Great Hall for the first time since filming ended, alongside costumes and props from the fourth film. Check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wb studiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch

WELCOME TO BUCKINGHAM PALACE 21 July – 30 September 2018 10 weeks only

Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In June, the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, its four displays collectively tell the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-4pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. 21-29 Jul: Dragonfly Week. Discover the reserve’s 22 species and meet members of the British Dragonfly Society, which has organised a week of talks and walks about these beautiful insects. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

EVENTS & FESTIVALS Sail Royal Greenwich 4-8 Jul: This dramatic gathering provides the

opportunity to take an old-fashioned cruise down the River Thames in a tall ship. Expect an international array of these massive ships, best known for their high masts and striking sails, sailing from Royal Arsenal Pier to Canary Wharf. On selected evenings, ticketholders can also enjoy a firework display on board. www.sailroyal greenwich.co.uk. Royal Arsenal Pier, Marlborough Rd, SE18 6TL. T: 020-3040 2350. Off map. Station: Woolwich Arsenal. 36 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018

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SIGHTSEEING

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. A complete circular cruise will take an hour, but you can depart and return at any of the London piers it calls at. Among the sights you will see along the way are the London Eye, the Houses of Parliament, Tate Modern and the Tower of London – the skipper will point out all the iconic landmarks. Daily departures 11am-6.30pm. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises

London Eye River Cruise

Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. 4-7 Jul: Fireworks Cruise. Leaving from Tower Pier, take in the magnificent views of the Thames as you cruise past the flotilla of eight tall ships. The evening ends with a firework display in front of the Royal Naval College and Cutty Sark, or at Woolwich. Check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. T: 020-7740 0400.

Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes (p. 26). The boats set off from 22 piers. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and

SUFFRAGETTE FLAG © UK PARLIAMENT AND MARK DUFFY

Making their voices heard In 1918, following a fierce campaign by suffragettes, the first women won the right to vote. In this centenary year, the building in which UK women’s rights were passed into law is honouring this change. The Houses of Parliament’s Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament (to 6 Oct; p. 32) explores this struggle. On display in Westminster Hall (a magnificent sight in itself ) are long-lost parts of the building, which have been rebuilt especially for the occasion. These represent the women-only sections in Parliament, including the Lady Members’ Room, which was created when female Parliamentarians began working. The exhibition gives a great insight into women’s place in Parliament.

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SIGHTSEEING provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75; children under five travel free. Single journeys from £4.60. www.mbnathames clippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services Hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am5pm; from Greenwich to Westminster 11am-6pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. The experience takes you past some of London’s most iconic sights, including the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, the London Eye and HMS Belfast. Once you are past Tower Bridge, the speed picks up. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Westminster.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 15 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. Most walks do not require pre-booking. The full walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; tours start at various points in the area. www.bee-midtown.org. T: 020-7078 7077.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £37; child £19. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by bus. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths

8 JUNE – 14 OCTOBER 2018 Includes A Prince’s Tour of India 1875–6 and Four Centuries of South Asian Paintings and Manuscripts

Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore this fascinating insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse which lies hidden beneath offices. Adult £8; child £6. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Free-£12. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

www.royalcollection.org.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle.

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SIGHTSEEING The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. One-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Various.

Hairy Goat Photography Tours

London Literary Pub Crawl

London Magical Tours

See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it visits pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and contemporary writers. Among the writers featured are Dylan Thomas, Virginia Woolf, Anthony Burgess, George Orwell and Charles Dickens. Thur & Sat only, please check website for times. Tickets £24, booking strongly advised. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team: a guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports and A Royal Morning in London. Check for times and prices. www.londontailored tours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.

Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the capital’s acclaimed Hairy Goat offers daytime and evening touring options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details to be found on new, old and grand architecture, as well as the street and river scenes that make London a joy to capture on camera. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.

Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Kia Oval Tours Tour the famous cricket ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this hour-long tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from Green Park station, at the exit closest to The Ritz hotel. www.tourguides.org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or be brave and go on an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start at £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Horror Tours Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Kray Twins on tours run by the actor and entertainer Dr Jack. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary. T: 07722-247660. www.wheretraveler.com 39

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SIGHTSEEING London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Neverland Children’s Tours Neverland Children’s Tours offers fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and above, with the aim of making London

sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and meet new friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am; Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks

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Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, Original Tours has launched a series of additional walking tours available Fri-Sun: Picture London at 11.30am; Royal London at 2.30pm and Haunted London at 6pm. £5 each, or £10 for all three walks. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm; no tour 9-10 Jul. Adult £14; child £7. For a limited time only, supplement your tour with the 30-minute RAH150 Tour, which details the planned building works that will update the venue for its 150th anniversary in 2021. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; £6 extra. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues, also home to the Royal Ballet company. The Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour takes you into the auditorium and the Royal Retiring Room, accompanied by stories of the most famous stars to sing there. 4pm on 11, 24 & 30 Jul. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. Tours last 45 minutes. www.roh.org.uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm; 8pm; 8.30pm; 9.15pm; 9.45pm and 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has the city’s only thatched roof, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candle-lit performance space. Tours begin every 30 minutes, Mon 9am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9am-12.30pm; Sun 9am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Twizy Tours Rent a two-seater, electric Renault Twizy and discover the sights at your own pace. These tiny cars make it easy to navigate the streets, with GPS-guided tours. Tour stories to choose from include Pomp & Circumstance, Rule Britannia and Royal Flash. Please check online for prices. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with

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SIGHTSEEING a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; check for dates. Adult £22; child £14. www.wembleystadium. com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours are in either a four or six-seater carriage with an adjustable hood depending on the weather. £500 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses. co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights and little-known cobbled streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures, while the Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours last 90 mins. £30 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £40 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask.

Blenheim Palace

Chartwell

See three centuries of treasures in magnificent State Rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 8 Jul: Rally of the Giants. An all-day showcase of American heritage cars, trucks and bikes. From 18 Jul: Yves Klein. More than 50 artworks by the French artist, including paintings, sculptures and large installations. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6.30pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £26; child £14.50. www.blenheim palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill was actually bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, while Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living in it – the house is still decorated as it was in the 1930s. You’ll find a lovely kitchen garden and glorious woodland to explore, too. Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £14.40; child £7.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted, then taxi.

SEE FURTHER THAN THE EYE CAN SEE

IMAGE © VISIT LONDON

To 22 Jul:

Modernism Early America’s Cool Modernism. 20th-century American art, including work by Georgia O’Keeffe and Arthur Dove. To 9 Sep: The Tale of Prince Vessantara. Explore the final birth story of the Buddha. To 14 Oct: A Century of Women in Chinese Art. See depictions of women in China over the past 100 years. TueSun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission; charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Book in advance and save Speak to your hotel concierge today theviewfromtheshard.com Open daily from 10am till late London Bridge

See the Changing the Guard (p. 28) www.wheretraveler.com 41

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SIGHTSEEING Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see Henry’s grand State Apartments including the Great Hall. 2-8 Jul: RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show. The annual floral celebration returns, promising fun for the whole family. Visitors can browse stalls selling Where London 118w x 190h gardening products and food, while the Country August Living Pavilion is the perfect place to pick up treats for friends, family and your home (p. 44). To 2 Sep: No One Does Feasting Like the Tudors. This Where London Half Page

season of Tudor cooking demonstrations, events and talks transports visitors back to 1538, as the kitchen prepares a feast for Henry VIII’s son, Edward. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Hever Castle and Gardens Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors, the work of the Astor family during the 20th century. Outside, the castle’s gardens feature statues and a lake for boat rides.

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To 1 Jul: Hever in Bloom. Take a guided tour of the English Rose Gardens, take part in a floristry workshop and enjoy grand floral displays throughout the castle. 28-29 Jul: Tudor Tales & Jousting. A weekend of jousting tournaments and spectacle, which includes the opportunity to get dressed up in a suit of armour or as a princess. Daily 10.30am-6pm; castle opens noon. Adult £17.25; child £9.75. www.hevercastle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge, then taxi.

Leeds Castle This fairy-tale 900-year-old castle was a Norman stronghold, a Jacobean country house and a Georgian mansion, among other things. It has a moat, gardens and parkland, where you can lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. Look out for falconry displays in the Birds of Prey Centre, behind the maze, with tiny American kestrels and a Russian steppe eagle. Grounds and garden daily 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £25.50; child £17.50. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated. Departures every 30 mins. Adult £13; child £7. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Regular after-dark tours, park runs, yoga every Sun and gardening clubs. 7 Jul: Big Camp. Unique camping experience with games and activities. Explore the natural play trail, stretch out with some outdoor yoga, or join expert rangers in tracking bats and other nocturnal creatures. After sunset enjoy toasted marshmallows, stargazing and stories round the campfire. Garden daily 10am-5pm; house daily 11am-5pm. Adult £11.40; child £5.70. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

020 7219 4114

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the spectacular State Apartments with ornate plasterwork ceilings and a huge collection of Brussels tapestries and the majestic Throne Room. The Great Gallery is the largest room in the palace, and is where Scottish residents receive their awards. Mary, Queen of Scots’ Chambers, where the ill-fated queen lived, still has her bedchamber. Daily 9.30am-6pm; closed until 7 Jul. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/ palaceofholyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

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Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive, early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9am-8pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.C

Syon Park

This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is Y home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscaped CM gardens and the Great Conservatory – you will feel MY like you are in the deep countryside even though Syon Park is just nine miles from central London. CY 21-29 Jul: London National Park City Week – Tree Trail. Gardens daily 10.30am-5pm; House Wed, ThurCMY& Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark. K co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. 14 Jul: Artisan Food Market. Browse the best in quality, fresh, seasonal produce all locally sourced – the market aims to support local, small-scale, independent food producers. To 22 Jul: The Silver Caesars: A Renaissance Mystery. For the first time in more than 150 years, see some of the most enigmatic treasures of the Renaissance: a set of 12 European, silver-gilt standing cups known as the Aldobrandini Tazze. House Wed-Fri noon-4pm, Sat-Sun 11am4pm; grounds Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. House tickets adult £19.80, child £9.90; groundsonly tickets adult £10.80, child £5.40. House tickets must be bought in advance; grounds-only tickets may be purchased on arrival. www.waddesdon. org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

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Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss the Horrible Histories maze and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. 7-8 & 14-15 Jul: Wars of the Roses Live Weekends. This live-action, family jousting show features an epic battle for the English throne as the Wars of the Roses unfold. Please check for times. Castle adult £27, child £24; castle & dungeon adult £32, child £28. www.warwickcastle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit the Tea Shop, then see the Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. To 8 Jul: Art for All Exhibition 2018. To mark 10 years of this initiative, view (and purchase) artworks and hear stories about the disadvantaged artists who have benefited from the scheme. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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SIGHTSEEING Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed in May and where Princess Eugenie (ninth in line to the throne) will marry Jack Brooksbank in October. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am5.15pm. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royal collection.org.uk/windsorcastle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

“One of the

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Woburn Abbey and Gardens

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Helicopter Sightseeing Tours Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking

Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the abbey to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. 7-8 Jul: Take a horse-drawn carriage tour of the grounds and gardens. To 28 Oct: Humphry Repton: Art and Nature for the Duke of Bedford. Exhibition exploring the 19th-century working relationship between the gardener and the 6th Duke of Bedford. Gardens, deer park, tea room and shop daily 10am-6pm; abbey daily 11am-5pm. Gardens and deer park adult £8; child £5.25. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £17.50; child £8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

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So many secrets waiting to be revealed The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, hidden for 700 years

Book online today for fast track discounted entry Faith at the heart of the nation

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The RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show (from 2-8 Jul; p. 42), hosted by the Royal Horticultural Society, is the world’s biggest annual flower show. It’s the ideal opportunity to combine an exploration of the royal Tudor palace, once occupied by Henry VIII, with a chance to see some of England’s most beautiful flora. The show features exhibits such as a meadow of lavender, violets and lilacs. Evolve: Through the Roots of Time takes showgoers on a journey to discover Earth’s plants, from the barren landscapes more than 500 million years ago up to the present day. Other attractions include the Festival of Roses, where you can discover these luscious flowers, or simply stroll around the grounds for a summer experience.

RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE FLOWER SHOW © RHS/LUKE MACGREGOR

Beautiful blooms

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London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Drawings from down the rabbit hole Why is a raven like a writing desk? Unfortunately, we have no idea, but we know of at least one person who does understand the madness of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland: John Vernon Lord. The British illustrator has created many beautiful drawings for Lewis Carroll’s books during his career, and they form part of an exciting new exhibition: John Vernon Lord: Illustrating Carroll and Joyce at the House of Illustration (from 13 Jul). Lord has made a name for himself with his intricate pen-and-ink drawings that are filled with inventive twists and dark humour – a perfect match for the tone of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Born in 1939, Lord began working as a book illustrator aged 28, and he was Professor of Illustration at the University of Brighton for 38 years. This year, he won a V&A Book Illustration Award for his work on the groundbreaking novel Ulysses, by the Irish writer James Joyce. This show concentrates on his recent projects: illustrating Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, Through the Looking-Glass and The Hunting of the Snark , all by Carroll, and Joyce’s novels Finnegans Wake and Ulysses. Lord says of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland: ‘Illustrators who attempt to provide images for classics must try to break away from convention. Readers, who are familiar with the stories, are often keen to see them anew.’ His playful creations capture Carroll’s psychedelic world, but Lord’s drawing style, featuring dense rows of black lines, adds a darkness that also conveys Wonderland’s sinister side. If you want to visit more drawing destinations, head to The Courtauld Gallery, a gallery inside Somerset House that’s dedicated to drawings (p. 52). As well as seeing masterpieces by Michelangelo, Rubens, Cézanne and Turner, you can also catch the exhibition Artists at Work (to 15 Jul). It showcases artists who, during the past 400 years, have depicted themselves drawing – no doubt to prove just how hard they were working. Meanwhile, The Cartoon Museum‘s latest exhibition, Fifty Glorious Shows!, looks back at its previous exhibitions, covering 170 British originals from the worlds of cartoons, comics, graphic novels and animation (p. 48). If you’d rather sip a drink between sketches, visit Scarfes Bar at Rosewood London (p. 82). This hotel den in Holborn is named after Gerald Scarfe, whose caricatures decorate the walls. For full listing, turn to p. 48

ALICE’S ADVENTURES IN WONDERLAND © JOHN VERNON LORD

Curiouser and curiouser! Neil Simpson is impressed with a new exhibition about Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland

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Explore the historic fight for votes for women through remarkable artefacts and personal stories.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel onto the pitch, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s 125-year history, and the club’s FA Cups. Please check for times and prices. www.arsenal. com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. From 23 Jul: Gold Rush! A child-friendly treasure hunt (p. 52). Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse is the last remaining home of the American diplomat, Founding Father and musician. 4 Jul: Independence Day Tours. All 30-minute tours are paired with cake and a glass of bubbly (book online). Please check for tour times and prices. www.benjaminfranklin house.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, with permanent displays and treasures. Regular talks and events. To 29 Jul: Rodin and the Art of Ancient Greece. Works by the French master sculptor are displayed alongside the Ancient Greek pieces that inspired him. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Cartoon Museum

The Design Museum

Museum dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today. To 2 Sep: 50 Glorious Shows! Looking back at its previous exhibitions (p. 46). Tue-Sun 10.30am5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoon museum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Leading museum of contemporary design and architecture. To 12 Aug: Hope to Nope: Graphics and Politics 2008-2018. Celebrating the role of graphic design in modern politics. Please check for times and prices. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Charles Dickens Museum

The Fan Museum

Unusual museum with examples from The former home of Victorian novelist the 12th century to the present day. Charles Dickens, where he wrote Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. classics including Oliver Twist. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefan Decorated in Victorian style, it museum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Chelsea FC is the displays his personal possessions. Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. only London football Please check for events and Off map. Station: Cutty Sark. team to have won themed Dickensian walks. the Champions Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; Fashion and Textile Museum League child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. Highlighting contemporary fashion, 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 textiles and jewellery from 1947 to today. Please check for times. Adult £9; child free. 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge. Interactive guided tour of the home of Chelsea Florence Nightingale Museum FC, with a look inside the dressing rooms, the Museum highlighting the work of the pioneering press box, pitchside tunnel and more. Tours 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. Daily 10am-5pm. closures and monthly tours led by past stars Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale. of the game (from £70). Museum open daily co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster. £15 (£9). www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Garden Museum Located in an historic church, with a 17th-century knot garden and exhibitions related to garden design. Check for times. Adult £10; child £2.50 (when accompanied by an adult). www.garden museum.org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North. The history and heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which watch over the Royal Palaces. It’s a great insight into the Changing the Guard. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens

Nightcrawlers Dive into the planet’s darkest corners and deepest sea beds at the Natural History Museum’s latest exhibition, Life in the Dark (from 13 Jul; p. 50). Embarking on a rare journey through Earth’s eeriest depths, museumgoers can discover how animals such as foxes and bats use their heightened senses to survive their dark habitats. If you’re struggling to imagine what it’s like to enter a bat cave, or sink into the sea’s black voids, this has the answer: visitors will enter immersive environments that recreate the experiences of entering a cave. As the exhibition’s professor Geoff Boxshall says: ‘Even in the absence of light, life has found a way.’

Collection based upon that of Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and a huge selection of musical instruments. Its World Gallery reveals 600sqm of new exhibition space (p. 50). Please check for times and prices. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated to illustration. From 13 Jul: John Vernon Lord: Illustrating Carroll and Joyce. An exploration of the illustrator’s recent works of intricate pen-and-ink drawings (p. 46). Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £7.50; child £4. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

LANTERNFISH, GONICHTHYS BARNESI © THE TRUSTEES OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

The Guards Museum

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Open up to Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Roger Federerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by

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New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum See the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards. Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Imperial War Museum

Jack the Ripper Museum Within this Victorian house you’ll discover the history of 1880s east London. Explore six floors of rooms which recreate key scenes from the serial killer’s infamous rampage, including Whitechapel police station and a mortuary. Be warned: much of the content here is not for the faint-hearted. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jack therippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including the harrowing Holocaust Gallery with photographs and accounts. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton displays a collection including his paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East. Please check for times and tours. Adult £9; child £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series, including the Aston Martin DB5. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Transport Museum The story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses and the world’s first Underground steam train. The exhibition Poster Girls highlights London Transport artwork by female graphic artists in the mid 20th century. Daily 10am6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London. To 11 Nov: London Nights. Photography exhibition depicting the capital after dark from the late 19th century to the modern day. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

The globe in a gallery We were already big fans of the Horniman Museum in southeast London, but there is now even more to love. On the same day that the Horniman originally opened in 1901, its new World Gallery (p. 48) opens with a display of more than 3,000 curious objects. The gallery allows for a brighter spotlight to shine on the museum’s varied collection, which includes an Inuit child’s jacket made from seal skin, a caterpillar cocoon baby skirt from Papua New Guinea, and a section of a Libyan refugee boat salvaged in 2013. We have Frederick John Horniman, a Victorian tea trader and collector who travelled to exotic destinations, to thank for these objects. His habit for keeping everything didn’t make him popular with his wife, so he donated his entire house and its contents to the people of Forest Hill more than a century ago.

Museum of London Docklands

Royal Air Force Museum

The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumof london.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

National aviation museum with more than 100 aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

National Maritime Museum

Science Museum

The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including the Nelson, Navy, Nation gallery exploring the life of the naval hero. To 30 Sep: Great British Seaside. Photographs of 60 years of Britain’s quirky beach culture. Check for regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, with a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX theatre showing 3D science films. Permanent galleries include Making the Modern World, with Robert Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 command module. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Natural History Museum

Queen’s House is said Astounding collections Sherlock Holmes Museum to be haunted, after with exhibits ranging from the Famous address dedicated to Canadian tourists took Images of Nature gallery, to the fictional detective where, a photo of a ghost on dinosaur skeletons and fossils. according to the novels, he lived the Tulip Stairs To 16 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. See with his friend and colleague Dr hundreds of live butterflies and moths Watson from 1881 to 1904. The Victorian inside the temporary butterfly house. house has been maintained as described in Sir From 13 Jul: Life in the Dark. Discover how Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. animals survive in the planet’s darkest corners Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. (p. 48). Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. C5. charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Station: Baker Street. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Sir John Soane’s Museum Station: South Kensington. This 19th-century townhouse was owned by Queen’s House architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation This 17th-century house, an architectural gem by in 1837. It houses his collection from around the Inigo Jones, has 22 rooms with a stunning fine art world, plus Hogarth’s satirical artworks. Wed-Sun collection spanning 400 years. Daily 10am-5pm. 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk. Queen’s House, Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Holborn. Station: Cutty Sark.

IMAGES COURTESY OF HORNIMAN MUSEUM

Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to conflicts today, particularly those involving Britain. Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.

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This stunning 18th-century building houses The Courtauld Gallery and Embankment Galleries. To 22 Aug: The Influence Project. A photography exhibition depicting black music culture. From 25 Jul: Circus Originals. Exploring the history of the circus up to the modern day. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 2 Sep: Century of the Child: Nordic Design for Children 1900 to Today. Significant Nordic designs for children, from Lego bricks to the Moomins. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam. ac.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum

He’s got a few stories to tell. Meet the locals. Come face to face with British history.

npg.org.uk Outstanding global collection of arts spanning 3,000 years, including fashion, paintings, ceramics and photographs. To 4 Nov: Frida Kahlo: Making Free admission Leicester Square Her Self Up. Celebrating the late Mexican artist’s life, with her stylish clothes and possessions. To 27 Jan: Fashioned from Nature. Innovative new fabrics, contemporary fashion and natural history specimens. To 25 Nov: Jameel Prize 5. See works inspired by Islamic culture. Please check for times NPG_MTL_WhereLondon_1-3Square_124x118_AW1.indd 1 and prices. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Charing Cross

William Shakespeare (detail), associated with John Taylor, circa 1600-1610 © National Portrait Gallery, London

Somerset House

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The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body, including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man. To 16 Sep: Teeth. The evolution of our relationship with our teeth, and with the profession that has shaped the way we live with them. Please check for times. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours 2-15 Jul: Closed during the Wimbledon

Championships. The museum displays old trophies, rackets and tennis kits from recent champions. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, and a virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated by Tim Henman. The exhibition Through the Hoops: Croquet at Wimbledon charts the development of croquet, the first sport to be played there. Check for times and prices. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields, then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk. www.wheretraveler.com 51

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES international exhibition of contemporary portrait painting. To 21 Oct: Michael Jackson: On the Wall. A look at the artists who were inspired by the King of Pop, including Andy Warhol. Check for times and prices. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Photographers’ Gallery

GALLERIES

London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. To 14 Oct: Alex Prager: Silver Lake Drive. More than 40 large-scale works by the American photographer are on display. Please check for times. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Barbican Art Gallery

The Queen’s Gallery

Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 2 Sep: Dorothea Lange/Vanessa Winship. The first UK retrospective of the late American documentary photographer Lange, alongside British photographer Winship’s first major solo show. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

The Courtauld Gallery European art collection in Somerset House. To 15 Jul: Artists at Work. Display of sketches depicting artists working on their craft, drawn between the 16th and 20th centuries (p. 46). Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld. ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, plus the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityof london.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s.

Hayward Gallery This recently refurbished gallery is the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre. The Gallery also curates the annual Art Night festival (7 Jul; p. 53). Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a bar and restaurant, a bookshop and an art-house cinema. Please check for times. Adult £1; child free; no admission fee Tue. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with stunning works by Western European masters. To 29 Jul: Monet & Architecture. This exhibition takes a less-explored look at the painter’s meditations on buildings. To 7 Oct: Ed Ruscha: Course of Empire. Ruscha’s depictions of Los Angeles. To 7 Oct: Thomas Cole: Eden to Empire. The 19th-century American artist depicts dramatic vistas such as the Garden of Eden. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries displays works depicting famous British people in art. To 23 Sep: BP Portrait Award 2018. Prestigious

This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, many with works from the Royal Collection. To 14 Oct: Splendours of the Subcontinent: A Prince’s Tour of India 1875-6. Celebration of South Asian art with works and manuscripts spanning the past 400 years, including pieces gifted to Edward VII while touring the Indian subcontinent. To 20 Jul daily 10am-5.30pm; from 21 Jul daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection works in all media. To 19 Aug: Summer Exhibition. The annual celebration of contemporary art, from world-famous names to exciting new talent. To 12 Aug: Tacita Dean: Landscape. The English artist celebrates vistas she has witnessed across the globe. Please check for times and prices. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Royal Society of Sculptors This hub for professional sculptors hosts a regular series of exhibitions on sculpture. To 14 Jul: Faces of Sculpture: Portrait of a Profession. Anne Purkiss’ photographs depicting members of the Royal Society of Sculptors. MonFri 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors. org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 0207373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

Serpentine Gallery This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern and contemporary exhibitions. To 7 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion. This year’s architectural project is designed by Mexico’s Frida Escobeda. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 0207402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Serpentine Sackler Gallery Arts space near the Serpentine Gallery, formerly a gunpowder store, with a contemporary wing designed by Zaha Hadid. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Southbank Centre This sprawling arts centre on the South Bank is home to music venues and the Hayward Gallery. To 29 Jul: ABBA: Super Troupers. Audio-visual exhibition dedicated to the Swedish supergroup, with stage costumes, handwritten lyrics and musical instruments. Check for times. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 27 Aug: All Too Human: Bacon, Freud and a Century of Life Painting. Celebrating painters living in Britain who represented human figures. To 23 Sep: Aftermath: Art in the Wake of World War One. Exploring the impact of the war on British, German and French art. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 9 Sep: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy. A thrilling look at one of the most productive (and dramatic) years of Picasso’s life. To 14 Oct: Shape of Light: 100 Years of Photography and Abstract Art. Intertwined stories of the birth of these two innovations in art. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

A treasure hunt Money is not just for grown-ups, you know. Capitalising on the school holidays, the Bank of England Museum has devised a child-friendly game of maps and mystery. Gold Rush! (from 23 Jul; p. 48) is set in 1836, and the story follows the bank’s directors. They have just received a mysterious map, which details London’s underground sewer system and leads straight into the bank’s gold vaults. But which drain leads to the gold, and who made this map? Kids (and perhaps some excitable adults) are encouraged to answer these questions by searching for clues in the museum.

GOLD BARS COURTESY OF BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM

World Rugby Museum Relaunched for 2018 following a significant refurbishment, this showcase for global rugby culture is located in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. More than 38,000 objects include items from early 20th-century Welsh national teams and the 1924 New Zealand side. Discover the history of the stadium and test your rugby skills in an interactive display. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Noel Gallagher; The Human League; Summer Series at Somerset House

Music to your ears Whether you want to listen to pop music from Bruno Mars or classical tunes from II Divo, there’s a festival for you this month – wherever you are in the city. Staying central? Then make a beeline for British Summer Time in Hyde Park, now in its sixth year (6-15 Jul). This year’s headliners include Roger Waters as part of his Us + Them Tour, The Cure, Paul Simon, Eric Clapton, Canadian crooner Michael Bublé in his only UK show this year, and Bruno Mars, who performs tunes from his 24K Magic album. Is it OK to be more excited about the support acts? Guests include Bananarama, The Feeling, Van Morrison and Khalid (www.bst-hydepark.com). Summer Series, in the beautiful courtyard of Somerset House, is also a regular on the festival scene (5-15 Jul). You might discover new talent as the event mixes established and emerging artists, but British pop band Metronomy is likely to grab the headlines, as will hip-hop legends De La Soul and The Roots. Many tickets are already sold out, but call for returns (www.somersethouse.org.uk). For a taste of north London, head to the Wireless Festival – a weekend celebration

of urban music in Finsbury Park (6-8 Jul). Homegrown grime star Stormzy takes to the stage on Saturday (www.wirelessfestival.co.uk). The first Kaleidoscope Festival (21 Jul) in Alexandra Palace opens up parts of the palace to the public for the first time. Catch American rock band The Flaming Lips, British indie rockers The Mystery Jets and Beth Orton, the singer/songwriter who fuses folk with electronica. DJs including Norman Jay and The 2 Bears play, plus there’s comedy from Katherine Ryan among others, street food stalls and wellbeing activities for all ages (www.kaleidoscope-festival.com). On the other side of town, Greenwich Music Time (3-8 Jul) lights up south London as huge names perform including Emeli Sandé, Tom Jones, Nile Rodgers & Chic, Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds and the classical pop quartet II Divo. Sustain yourself with street food such as pulled pork in brioche buns, Neapolitan pizzas and Mexican cuisine (www.greenwichmusictime.co.uk). Go west to the Kew the Music (10-15 Jul) concert series in Kew Gardens. Eighties band Go West are back along with contemporaries

The Human League and there’s performances from The Gipsy Kings, Croatian cellist duo 2Cellos, the re-formed Boyzone and Jools Holland and his Rhythm and Blues Orchestra (www.kewthemusic.org). There are also two annual festivals in Gunnersbury Park. Lovebox (13-14 Jul) is headlined by the English grime artist Skepta, rapper Childish Gambino and Radio 1 DJ Annie Mac. As well as the big acts, roaming drummers from South London Samba will entertain and, for the brave (read: tipsy), there’s the chance to sing on stage in Hip Hop Karaoke (www.loveboxfestival.com). Citadel Festival (15 Jul) will also get you dancing, this time to synth-pop from the Glaswegian band Chvrches, gospel and soul from the American singer Leon Bridges and psychedelic rock from Tame Impala, led by singer-songwriter Kevin Parker. Enjoy circus acts and street performers from Roundhouse, as well as hip-hop cheerleaders, space-hopper races, life drawing and puppet making, with plenty of food stalls to keep you going (www.citadelfestival.com). Now that’s how London does summer!

NOEL GALLAGHER © LAWRENCE WATSON; THE HUMAN LEAGUE © SPIROS POLITIS; SUMMER SERIES © OWEN HARVEY

Emeli Sandé, Noel Gallagher, Roger Waters and Eric Clapton are just a few of the famous faces you can see perform live at music festivals across the capital this month, as Sarah Riches discovers

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 88-89. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin Based on the Disney film, it has tunes by Sir Tim Rice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£149.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Bat Out of Hell Meat Loaf jukebox musical. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£175. www.batoutofhell musical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This satire follows a team of hapless missionaries. Please check for times. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (extra show 27 Jul, 2.30pm). Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Chicago the Musical

Director Sam Mendes, best known for the film Skyfall, is directing The Lehman Trilogy at the National Theatre (from 4 Jul). The three-hour, 40-minute play is told in three parts on a single night. Written by Stefano Massini, it depicts the Lehman brothers after they arrived in New York from Bavaria in 1844. They set up the Lehman Brothers bank, only for it to go bankrupt 163 years later triggering the global financial crisis in 2008. Ben Power, the theatre’s deputy artistic director who adapted the performance, says: ‘It’s a gripping story about the American dream and how that got lost. The play was so long it had to be shown over two nights in the original Italian production.’ With Russell Beale, Adam Godley and Ben Miles playing the brothers, you can bank on this being a success. South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. E8. Station: Waterloo

THE LEHMAN TRILOGY COURTESY OF NATIONAL THEATRE

From 2 Jul: Martin Kemp takes over from Cuba Gooding Jr. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£150. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Tumbling down

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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

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ENTERTAINMENT Dreamgirls Musical about a female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15£175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

King and country

Everybody’s Talking about Jamie

Few actors can boast of working for the Royal Shakespeare Company and then a blockbuster franchise (The Lord of the Rings). Sir Ian McKellen has done just that and is now returning to the theatre, playing the lead in Shakespeare’s King Lear at the Duke of York’s Theatre (from 11 Jul; p. 62). Calling it his ‘last big Shakespeare part’, McKellen is reprising his role for the fourth time after making his West End debut on this same stage in 1964. Audiences can watch the actor as he morphs from a decorated professional into a regal king-turned-military hero, in director Jonathan Munby’s rendition of the play.

This musical is set in Sheffield, northern England, about how a boy overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The King and I Watch Broadway stars make their West End debuts in this famous musical. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £15-£82.50. www.kingandimusical. co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory that produces knee-high boots for drag queens. Music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in postrevolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £47.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.

‘THE ULTIMATE FEEL- GOOD SHOW!’

0844 482 5115 NOVELLO THEATRE

ALDWYCH I WC2B 4LD I

COVENT GARDEN

A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

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CLASSIC FM

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ENTERTAINMENT Disney’s The Lion King

Matilda the Musical

The Phantom of the Opera

Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £42-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

A mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£204.75. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Mamma Mia!

Motown the Musical

A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island and all the band’s best-known tracks. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£102.25. www.mammamia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Stevie Wonder and The Temptations. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

From 3 Jul: Immersive experience inspired by Disney’s Fantasia. Check for times. Tickets £22-£30. www.thevaults.com. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

SEE YOU IN

COURT

Sounds and Sorcery

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s hit musical. Check for times and prices. www.schoolofrockthe musical.com. New London, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Thriller Live Songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Check for times and prices. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina: The Tina Turner Musical Musical based on the life of the singer. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£79.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.75-£175. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

A UNIQUE COURTROOM STAGING | NOW PLAYING LONDON COUNTY HALL |

witnesscountyhall.com

Shakespeare’s Globe theatre’s summer season kicks off with Othello (from 20 Jul; p. 62), a tragedy that transports you to the canals of Venice. This version has an award-winning cast, giving an exciting twist to the tragic storyline. Alabama-born André Holland, best known for his roles in Moonlight and Selma, plays the troubled protagonist alongside Mark Rylance, known from the theatre’s current Broadway productions of Farinelli and the King and Dunkirk, who plays Iago.

Staging the Bard

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ENTERTAINMENT

PLAYS The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Consent Friends take opposing briefs in a contentious legal case. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£80. www.londontheatredirect.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this experience based on the TV show. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50-£79.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story. Most tickets are sold out; please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hamlet

Julie throws a party which descends into a savage fight for survival. Vanessa Kirby (The Crown) stars. Check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

After learning of his father’s death, Prince Hamlet comes home to find his uncle married to his mother and installed on the throne. Check for times. Tickets £5-£22. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Julie

Killer Joe Orlando Bloom (The Lords of the Rings, The Hobbit, Pirates of the Caribbean) stars as a police officer who moonlights as a killer. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Check for prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

King Lear

DAILY MAIL, GUARDIAN, RADIO TIMES, WHATSONSTAGE

ALL SINGING! ALL DANCING! ALL LAUGHING!

From 11 Jul: Ian McKellen stars as a mad king (p. 58). Please check for times. Tickets £25£145. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes in Agatha Christie’s play. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap. co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Othello From 20 Jul: Mark Rylance plays Iago in this classic play (p. 60). Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Witness for the Prosecution Show based on Agatha Christie’s courtroom drama. Tickets from £10-£75. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo.

The Woman in Black A spooky story about a lawyer who settles affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewoman inblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Monster Calls

0330 333 4811 | GARRICK THEATRE | YoungFrankenstein.co.uk 2 Charing Cross Road, London, WC2H 0HH |

Leicester Square

Charing Cross

TICKETS FROM £20 | MUST END 25 AUGUST

From 7 Jul: Teenager Conor, who lives with his mother, sees a monster in his window. Please check for times and prices. www.old victheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-81 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Double Act A comical adaptation of a Jacqueline Wilson story about identical twins. Please check for times and prices. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

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ENTERTAINMENT

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall. 21 Jul: Prom 9: War and Peace. Composed in the shadow of World War II, hear Britten’s Sinfonia da Requiem. 7.30pm. Please check for prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.

IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The O2 Iconic live music venue. 9-11 Jul: Justin Timberlake. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 2-4 Jul: Keyon Harrold. 8 Jul: Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Orchestra. 16-19 Jul: Average White Band. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

DANCE Royal Opera House

‘HUGELY RECOMMENDED. A PERFECT D-DAY STORM!’ MAIL ON SUNDAY DAVID HAIG MALCOLM SINCLAIR LAURA ROGERS

8 Jul: The Royal Ballet School Summer Performance. Watch performances by students who are about to embark on a dance career. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells 10-11 Jul: Rambert School of Ballet and Contemporary Dance. See performers from Britain’s oldest dance school. Check for times and prices. www.sadlers wells.com. Sadler’s Wells, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. C9. Station: Angel.

OPERA Royal Opera House To 20 Jul: La Bohème. The first revival of Richard OBSERVER

EVENING STANDARD

Jones’s production of Puccini’s opera. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms Annual festival celebrating classical music, which aims to bring the music to the masses. Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk/proms. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Greenwich + Docklands International Festival To 7 Jul: A free festival celebrating performing arts outdoors. www.festival.org. T: 020-8305 1818.

Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre

LIMITED SEASON UNTIL 1 SEPTEMBER

PressurePlay.co.uk 020 7395 5405

AMBASSADORS THEATRE

WC2H 9ND

Watch shows under the stars including As You Like It and Dinosaur World Live. Check for times and prices. www.openairtheatre.com. Open Air Theatre, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Building sights

From top to bottom: A St Pancras International scarf; a Fortnum & Mason teapot; The Old Vic biscuit; Fortnum & Mason handwash pump

St Paul’s Cathedral, The Shard and the Coca-Cola London Eye: London is a city that boasts impressive architecture, which is recognisable the world over. If you are a fan of the capital’s buildings, here are some souvenirs that will be right up your street. Fortnum & Mason (p. 67) is a British institution. More than 200 years old, it is famed for its food hall and afternoon tea, which is served in the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon – this was opened by none other than The Queen. The Royal Warrant Holder stocks plenty of items that make charming souvenirs. This month, the department store has launched the Rory Dobner collection, which is exclusive to the store. The artist’s intricate ink drawings of the store’s façade are replicated on plates, egg cups, trays, tea cups, pots and towels. The homeware represents all that is great about Britain – as the designer as well as the products have all been made here in Britain. St Pancras International is one of the most impressive buildings in London. It is hard not to be wowed by its Gothic-inspired architecture. This year the station celebrates its 150th anniversary. To mark the occasion, you can take your pick from stylish items including printed cushions, limited-edition scarves, pictures and more on sale. While you’re there look out for the pianos, which anyone can play – some have been played by music stars including Elton John and John Legend (www.stpancras.com). Continuing with the theme of anniversaries, to mark 200 years of The Old Vic, the theatre is launching a range of merchandise. The playhouse has welcomed famous faces from Ian McKellen to Sir Ben Kingsley. To celebrate, the company has collaborated with British brands including the Londonbased fashion designer Bella Freud and the fine jeweller Cassandra Goad to create products inspired by the iconic playhouse. Biscuiteers, the luxury London-based biscuit company, is also working with the institution. In honour of the occasion it has made a special biscuit depicting the exterior of the venue iced on to a rich vanilla biscuit, using British ingredients. The range is available at the theatre (www.oldvic theatre.com).

SCARF COURTESY OF ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL;TEAPOT AND HANDWASH PUMP COURTESY OF FORTNUM & MASON; BISCUIT COURTESY OF THE OLD VIC

London has some of the world’s most amazing architecture. Kohinoor Sahota finds out how it is inspiring designers to make souvenirs

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Carnaby Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area still appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

In this department store, inside a mock-Tudor building, you will find trendy prints, which are on everything from scarves to notebooks. Designer fashion for men and women scores highly here, too. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis

This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Find covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hatton Garden

Marks & Spencer

Covent Garden

This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket fashion, this iconic street still attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with antique and furniture shops. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Liberty and the first British Ferrari shop. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall (p. 66). Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys RYAN LO DRESS COURTESY OF 50M

Liberty

Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

A British institution. This is a reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections for men, women and children (multiple locations around London). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer. com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP (and branches). T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street with 650,000 sq feet of retail space. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion, plus numerous restaurants and bars. The shoe department and denim studios are impressive. Mon-Sat 9.30am10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

FASHION Burberry Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing for men, women, children and babies, including a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, separates and accessories (and branches). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Cath Kidston Home to stylish accessories with London prints, plus childrenswear. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products. Fashion-forward shoppers can spend hours browsing through accessories, clothing, bags and other treasures at this chic flagship (multiple locations around London). www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hackett For those who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, suiting and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Bright stars While London may be one of the world’s most fashionable cities, starting out as a new designer in the capital isn’t easy. That’s why 50m, a new experimental concept store, has opened with the aim of supporting new talent. Paul Smyth, who is behind the project, says: ‘The fashion industry is a difficult industry to survive in and London rents mean the dream of owning a shop is disappearing to everyone but the wealthy, leaving great British talent behind.’ That’s why the Belgravia venue charges affordable monthly rent to designers. The name refers to the 50 metres of rail space which each designer has to showcase their work. The space will take up to 30 designers at any one time, and names include womenswear designer Ryan Lo, fashion duo Kepler and jewellery studio Räthel and Wolf. Eccleston Yards, 21 Eccleston Place, SW1W 9NF. www.ecclestonyards.com. G6. Station: Victoria

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SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles)

Mari Vanna

Sloane Street & Knightsbridge

Burberry

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

Boodles Salvatore Ferragamo Alberta Ferretti Ermenegildo Zegna Tom Ford Ermanno Scervino

Boss L.K.Bennett

GE R I DHarvey Nichols B S

Lacoste Dolce & Gabbana Watches of Switzerland Tommy Hilfiger

Moncler

Graff Porsche Design

Louis Vuitton

MONT

Ted Baker Gucci KNIGHTSBRIDGE Roberto Cavalli D Rochester Big & Tall Clothing A Space NK Dior O R Mulberry in Harrods Godiva Jimmy Choo N in Harrods Bottega Veneta Harrods TO R ESCENT P Gap Karen Millen Escada in Harrods M O in Harrods Pinko Nespresso Tods R B Reiss Caroline Castigliano Giorgio Armani HA

PELIE

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RE ER NY

Hackett Zadig & Voltaire Smythson Tiffany Kate Spade J.Crew SLOANE

Peter Jones SLOANE SQUARE Boggi Milano SQUARE NS D G T.M.Lewin D Boss OR CO Massimo Dutti LF Links of London AY CU R DRussell & Bromley D E C A Eric Bompard A Calvin KleinP LUnderwear R O Michael Kors Y T S A S Whistles R N B Hobbs O G ’ L.K.Bennett LS N I U K Jigsaw CO Sarah Pacini Kurt Geiger Catimini Reiss Elliot Rhodes Thomas Sabo P

E ST LOWER SLOAN

Folli Follie

AN KL IN

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Anthropologie

G’

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Zara

Hawes & Curtis Penhaligon’s

Cath Kidston

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Anya Hindmarch L Chloe W I L B R A H A M P Escada Jo Malone YCO

Lulu Guinness ACE CADOGAN PL

CAD

Emilia Wickstead Atelier

E C A D O G A N G AT

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Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. This chocolate shop has mouthwatering truffles, which are presented in beautiful boxes. The café serves a huge choice of treats from chocolate cakes to hot chocolate. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com

Van Peterson Designs Andrew Martin

Godiva

ET SLOANE STRE

J.Crew

’S

SOUTH KENSINGTON (0.4miles)

EET

Agent Provocateur

Herve Leger

REET PONT ST

W M Hawkes & Son

Katharine Pooley

CADOGAN PLACE

HANS ST

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HAM

PEL

Loro Piana Prada

Lauren B C D H Emporio Armani A A John Boyd O M R P Stewart Parvin P N Caroline Charles Bruce Oldfield L Amrapali A TO Suzanne Neville C P E M Haute Couture RO YE

LA E P

18 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7QN. T: 020-7980 8427. www.burberry.com

TA G

Burberry is one of Britain’s leading brands and is famous for its checked prints and for having NS GD invented the iconic trench coat, ELL CROMW which was used during World War I. The store also stocks stylish accessories including shoes, bags and wallets.

L S T

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Burberry

Coccinelle

Miu Miu Versace Fendi Bulgari Dolce & Gabbana Valentino Saint Laurent Emilio Pucci ST B CHANEL OM TC O Arije M Christian ST N La Perla LouboutinH A L K I Hermes W LO

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Bonhams

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SHOPPING

LUXURY ARCADES

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Burlington Arcade

David Morris

Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade has specialist shops. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This esteemed British jewellery brand offers beautiful couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years old and is the pharmacy to the Queen. It offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Links of London

London Glassblowing

Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pick up a souvenir and try glassblowing with a session at the UK’s foremost studio and gallery for contemporary glass art. www.londonglassblowing. co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Leadenhall Market A spectacular Victorian covered market in the City that dates back to the 14th century. Mon-Fri 11am5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk. Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Westfield London This mall has more than 450 shops, from high-street names to high-end labels. www.westfield.com/ london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Pandora Find jewellery, including charm bracelets that you build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

SPECIALIST STORES

Westfield Stratford City

Buckingham Palace Shop

Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

John Bell & Croyden

Prestat One of London’s oldest chocolate shops, selling truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Green Park.

Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop – look out for the stuffed pigeons, wallets and artworks. Check for times. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

Euro

WOMEN’S CLOTHES XS

S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

MEN’S CLOTHES (CHEST) S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN’S CLOTHES 4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 69

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15/06/2018 10:27

DINING | THE GUIDE

Great British restaurants

British chef Bryn Williams has opened a new restaurant at Somerset House and he’s already seeing the fruits of his labour, as Sarah Riches discovers A TV chef who has cooked for the Queen has opened a veggie-friendly restaurant in Somerset House’s South Wing. The eponymous Bryn Williams at Somerset House (above) is the Welsh chef’s first London restaurant in a decade, since he took over the acclaimed Odette’s in Primrose Hill. Williams got his big break in 2006 when the sous chef beat established names to prepare the fish course for the Queen’s 80th birthday celebrations, on the BBC’s TV programme Great British Menu. Since then he has worked with Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux. While this new restaurant is not vegan nor vegetarian, its modern British menu is riding the wave of seasonal, sustainable ingredients sourced from well-known suppliers, with a focus on fruit and vegetables. Williams says: ‘I’m a firm believer that a piece of fruit or veg should be treated with the same amount of care and respect as a cut of meat or fillet of fish – if not more. I’m thrilled to have opened a new restaurant that’s not only in a stunning location, but where fresh, locally sourced produce takes centre stage.’

Williams keeps things original by making dishes colourful and textured, so expect small plates such as a hand-dived scallop with rainbow carrots in a sweet Sauternes sauce, and Cumbrian beef with pickled mooli (radish), black garlic, raw apple and sage. Mains might include grilled salmon and roast young broccoli with olive tapenade and sage, grilled leeks with barley and buttermilk, and grilled hispi cabbage with piglet belly and burnt apple. Desserts are inventive, such as lavender meringue with lemon posset and blueberry and lavender ice cream. Rosendale Design is behind the grand decor, which is influenced by the chef’s Welsh roots and the Georgian building’s naval history, so expect Welsh printed upholstery and brown leather banquette booths, wall lights made from lighthouse lenses and antique naval map drawers. You can also see fruit and vegetable still-life images by the Welsh fine art photographer Allan Jenkins. Already, Williams’ restaurant is bearing fruit. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4646. www.bryn-somersethouse.co.uk

HANS’ BAR & GRILL The team behind the hotels Chewton Glen and 11 Cadogan Gardens has just opened Hans’ Bar & Grill near Sloane Square. English head chef – aptly named Adam England (above) – previously worked at Le Pont de la Tour and Skylon. The name is inspired by Hans Sloane, who is credited for bringing cocoa to the UK, so expect chocolate desserts and hot drink, alongside seasonal British produce and spirits. 164 Pavilion Rd, SW1X 0BP. T: 020-7730 7000. www.hansbarandgrill.com

ANGLO As the name suggests, this restaurant in Farringdon serves English cuisine. Choose a dinner tasting menu with dishes such as hay-smoked lamb, Cornish pollock, Isle of Mull scallop tartare, and Earl Grey ice cream. Expect fine-dining details such as deconstructed dishes and petals for decoration, as well as attention to the dishes’ provenance. 30 St Cross St, EC1N 8UH. T: 020-7430 1503. www.anglorestaurant.com

BRYN WILLIAMS IMAGES COURTESY OF BRYN WILLIAMS; HANS’ BAR AND GRILL IMAGES COURTESY OF HANS’ BAR AND GRILL

Rule, Britannia!

70 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018

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19/06/2018 10:39

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11/06/2018 17:29

The Sunday Telegraph

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