GUIDE TO LONDON ®
MARCH 2019
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WONDER WOMEN The ladies who run the capital
PAINT THE TOWN The most beautiful painted ceilings
Business & pleasure
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•Van Go US g •Inside h’s London Crysta l Maze e of street food
•The ris
The best places to seal the deal, then celebrate your success
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FEATURES
LISTINGS
6 WHERE NOW The biggest festivals and events taking place across the city, from St Patrick’s Day celebrations to Pancake Day.
20 SIGHTSEEING Look up! We visit the city’s most exquisite painted ceilings.
10 INSPIRATIONAL WOMEN It’s International Women’s Day on 8 March, so we meet four inspirational women who are leading the way in London. 14 BUSINESS AND PLEASURE As the clock ticks towards Brexit, we look at how London is still the business capital of the world. 18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE From smart briefcases to fancy phone chargers, here are the best business accessories. 74 MY PERFECT DAY The Royal Opera House’s principal dancer, Yasmine Naghdi, shares her London hotspots.
38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Did you know that Vincent van Gogh used to be a Londoner? Tate Britain is exploring his time in the capital. 44 ENTERTAINMENT If you love a challenge, we dare you to try the new Crystal Maze experience. 52 SHOPPING If you’ve had an accident and broken your heel or luggage, don’t fear – the recently opened Restory is ready to help. 56 DINING Experience unique flavours and unusual dishes from around the world at one of the city’s new or established food halls.
64 NIGHTLIFE Enjoy magic moments with the illusionist Tony Middleton as he performs at the Sheraton Grand and Simpsons in the Strand. 68 SPAS & SALONS As Glow Bar opens, we discover the health benefits of infrared saunas and discover the best places to sweat it out. 70 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced hotel concierges share their helpful tips on how to make the most of your time here. 72 MAP A useful map of central London to help you on your travels. See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
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Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night over the Rhône
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KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London
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London is a city with women in charge. We have Theresa May as Prime Minister, last year we celebrated 100 years since women first got the right to vote and, as International Women’s Day takes place, we are celebrating the ladies who run this city, from the CEO of the British Fashion Council, Caroline Rush, to the Deputy Mayor for Culture and Creative Industries, Justine Simons (p. 10). As the country prepares to leave the European Union, we are pushing the Mayor of London’s message that London is Open. In our Business and Pleasure article (p. 14), find out how London is still attracting leading companies, where the perfect place is to take your client to seal a deal and gadgets that will help you when you’re on the move (p. 18). If you think painted ceilings are just the preserve of Rome, think again. London has ceilings that rival even the greatest Italian churches. We sent our Sightseeing Editor, Neil, to look up and marvel at the artwork (p. 20). You don’t need to go to Amsterdam to see Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night or Gardening Boots – Tate Britain is holding a retrospective right here. Did you know that he used to be a Londoner? Find out how the city influenced his work and how he in turn influenced the city’s artists (p. 38). I’m looking forward to the Crystal Maze, Tom Hiddleston in Betrayal and, of course, van Gogh. How about you? Let us know on social media. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 5
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On your marks! Cheer on rowers in The Head of the River Race, raise a pint of Guinness on St Patrick’s Day and hear some great country music
1-2 DISNEY’S BROADWAY HITS sell-out performances in 2016, Disney’s Broadway Hits MAR Following returns to the Royal Albert Hall. Expect songs from your favourite Disney films such as Aladdin and Mary Poppins performed with a live orchestra. Some of the greatest lyricists, from Alan Menken to Elton John, are celebrated. The show is accompanied by the BBC Concert Orchestra and conducted by Boston Pops Orchestra’s Keith Lockhart. www.royalalberthall.com
PANCAKE DAY 5 known as Shrove MAR Otherwise Tuesday, this is a feast day when Christians traditionally used up eggs and fat before the ritual fasting of Lent. Have a flipping fantastic time watching the Parliamentary Pancake Race outside the Houses of Parliament before visiting Crêpeaffaire in Spitalfields Market. Here you can choose from gluten-free, savoury buckwheat pancakes or sweet crêpes. A new store is also set to open in Westfield London. www.crepeaffaire.com 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I M A R C H 2019
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16 & 30
MAR
THE HEAD OF THE RIVER RACE
Rowing has always felt quintessentially English. The Women’s Eights Head of the River Race (16 Mar) is the only event in the UK where novice female rowers can compete in the same race as their Olympic counterparts. The Head of the River Race (30 Mar), meanwhile, is an all-male race in which competitors come from as far as the USA and Australia. Pick a spot along the 4.25 mile-long (6.8km) course, from Mortlake to Putney, or watch from a boathouse on the riverbank. www.horr.co.uk
PATRICK’S DAY 17 ST It’s important to be as green as possible MAR all year round, but in March things turn emerald as Ireland’s biggest celebration hits the city. The St Patrick’s Day Festival takes over Trafalgar Square with Irish food stands, art showcases and plenty of live music on a large stage beneath Nelson’s Column. There’s also a boisterous parade which starts at noon from Piccadilly. It’s all in honour of Ireland’s patron saint, who used Irish shamrocks to explain the Christian holy trinity. www.london.gov.uk
23 MAR
Superstars of Gymnastics
American artistic gymnast Simone Biles (left) may be small at 4ft 8in, but she’s a big player in the sporting world. The Olympic champion, along with other global stars, is coming to The O2 to dazzle in The Superstars of Gymnastics show, which also features Max Whitlock, Britain’s double-Olympic and world champion. Whether they’re on the floor, beam, bars or pommel horse, prepare to be wowed by this spectacle. www.theo2.co.uk
OTHER ART FAIR 14-17 THE The Other Art Fair is returning MAR to The Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane, offering another chance to peruse, ponder and purchase the latest creations by a clutch of emerging artists. Prices start at £50, which makes a change from the prohibitive price tags found at most art fairs. Visitors can meet and chat to the 130 artists who are displaying their works here, as well as enjoy interactive art installations and live music. www.theotherartfair.com www.wheretraveler.com 7
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event. The evening celebrates Russian classical and contemporary masterpieces, and sees dancers from Steven McRae to Xander Parish perform. The English National Ballet Philharmonic accompanies the gala. www.londoncoliseum.org
8-10 MAR
Country to Country Festival
A touch of Nashville comes to the capital as Country to Country takes place at The O2. Now in its seventh year, the festival’s incredible line-up includes Lady Antebellum, Chris Stapleton and Keith Urban (left), alongside emerging country stars. Europe’s biggest country music festival welcomes more than 50,000 visitors. www.c2c-country tocountry.com
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Happy St David’s Day! Visit Fitzroy Tavern in Fitzrovia, a haunt of Dylan Thomas London Film & Comic Con is on today and tomorrow at Kensington Olympia Watch the London Symphony Orchestra perform Puccini at the Barbican Hall Enjoy an evening of amazing acrobatics at Cirque Éloize – Hotel at The Peacock It’s Shrove Tuesday, so visit Crêpeaffaire for sweet and savoury pancakes Watch the dance troupe BalletBoyz perform Them/Us at Sadler’s Wells See quirky photos in Only Human: Martin Parr at the National Portrait Gallery It’s International Women’s Day, so visit the Southbank Centre for its WOW Festival Looking for a souvenir? Then attend the Affordable Art Fair in Battersea It’s your last chance to see the beautiful blooms at Kew Gardens’ Orchids festival The London Book & Screen Week begins, taking place at venues across the city The provocative, hard-hitting drama Downstate opens at the National Theatre Embrace spring in one of London’s many beautiful parks and open spaces
Ballet Black at the Barbican Theatre looks at South Africa’s turbulent history Watch jiu jitsu masters in action at Polaris Professional Grappling at The O2 Enjoy a drink at B&H Garden Room and watch the West End world go by Celebrate St Patrick’s Day in Trafalgar Square with music, food and more
Sorolla: Spanish Master of Light opens at The National Gallery It’s George Ezra’s first headline arena tour and he’s performing at The O2 The Deutsche Börse Photography Prize is on at The Photographers’ Gallery
The Show in Which Hopefully Nothing Happens opens at the Unicorn Theatre The New Londoners photography exhibition starts at The British Library Emma Kunz’s first solo exhibition begins at the Serpentine Gallery Join in or watch the runners taking part in the London Landmarks Half Marathon Cillian Murphy stars in Grief is the Thing with Feathers at the Barbican Can women have it all? Top Girls at the National Theatre asks that question See artistic masterpieces in Van Gogh and Britain at Tate Britain, which opens today The Re-Textured festival, with electronic music and architecture, begins today Do you like scary stories? Ghost Stories begins today at the Lyric Hammersmith Watch rowers speed across the River Thames in The Head of the River Race Wake up and smell the coffee – the London Coffee Festival ends today
Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com
PREVIOUS PAGES: RIVER RACE © BEN RODFORD PHOTOGRAPHY; PANCAKES AND ST PATRICK’S DAY STAGE © ISTOCK; DISNEY’S BROADWAY HITS © MANUEL HARLAN; DRINKERS COURTESY OF WAXY O’CONNOR’S; ART FAIR COURTESY OF THE OTHER ART FAIR; SIMONE BILES © ROBERT J POLETT. THIS PAGE: BALLET DANCERS © MARC HAEGEMAN; KEITH URBAN COURTESY OF THE O2
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★★★★★
‘IT IS OUT OF THIS WORLD, IT’S MAGIC, AND IT’S A HIT’ THE TIMES
CHECK DAILY FOR LATE-RELEASE TICKETS
PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter
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Kathryn Conway meets four fabulous females who are helping to cement London’s status as one of the best cities in the world
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hen Sadiq Khan, the Mayor of London, launched the #Behind EveryGreatCity campaign, it felt like a turning point for gender equality. In a year that marked 100 years since the first women gained the right to vote in the UK, the Mayor’s campaign honoured women’s contributions to the capital. In 2019, events such as International Women’s Day (8 Mar) and WOW – Women of the World Festival at the Southbank Centre (8-9 Mar) keep the focus on gender equality. So, let’s meet some of the women behind the city’s reputation for excellence.
CLARE SMYTH Chef-patron of Core by Clare Smyth As the first female chef to head up a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the UK during her tenure as the chef-patron of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Clare Smyth is no stranger to awards. Since opening Core, her debut restaurant in Notting Hill in August 2017, however, the chef’s trophy cabinet is now bursting. Last year, Smyth was named the World’s Best Female Chef at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards and Core was awarded two Michelin stars. And she still found the time to cater for the evening reception of the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex. Attributing her success to sheer hard work and a determination to cook with the best, Smyth is quick to point out that ‘nothing is more important
and valuable than the people around you’. It’s why she is investing in development and why, every week, a staff member is asked to research a great chef, classic dish or ingredient and present their findings to the team. ‘I think a lot of chefs miss out on the foundations but without that, you can’t really make it to the top,’ Smyth says. Smyth is championing the sustainability revolution, by emphasising vegetables over meat and fish and ensuring British produce is at the heart of the menu. ‘We have fabulous ingredients here in the UK, particularly fish, shellfish and game,’ says Smyth. But what makes her stand out is the way she uses techniques and finesse that she has gleaned from Michelinstarred kitchens to create her exciting British fine-dining experiences. She is an inspirational figure in her own industry and beyond. www.corebyclaresmyth.com
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Since becoming Artistic Director of what was then called the Tricycle Theatre in 2012, Indhu Rubasingham has overseen a major refurbishment of the building, changed the theatre’s name from the Tricycle to the Kiln and implemented the mission she had when she started: to stage works that shine a light on unheard talent. Kiln’s current production, for example, is The Son (until 6 Apr), the final part of Florian Zeller’s family trilogy and a story that explores mental health. ‘I love the effect a work can have on an audience member – how it can change someone’s perception or how it humanises something for them,’ says Rubasingham. The artistic director’s choices of productions are also informed by her exasperation at not seeing people like herself on stage. ‘I was frustrated as a person, and as a British-Asian person, of the perceptions of people like me; firstly of not even seeing people like me on stage and secondly, that when I did they were often stereotyped,’ she reveals. ‘That’s why the unheard voice became important – I was interested in people having the main stage.’ Naturally, Rubasingham says there is much to be done with diversity in theatre. But, given how much the landscape has changed, she is excited: ‘Look at the majority of artistic directors now and they’re women, they’re people of colour, which is extraordinary,’ she says. ‘I don’t think this diversity of leadership is happening anywhere else.’ Perhaps, in part, we have Rubasingham to thank for that. www.kilntheatre.com
JUSTINE SIMONS Deputy Mayor for Culture and the Creative Industries As any visitor to the capital will attest, one of London’s greatest appeals is its diverse cultural offering. But, the capital wouldn’t be the artistically rich city it is without the help of one woman in particular. Instrumental in shaping the city’s arts policy for more than 15 years, Justine Simons believes that culture is vital to London, saying: ‘It’s the reason most tourists visit. But, more than that, it shapes our identity as a city.’ Working across a broad spectrum of sectors, Simons gets involved in projects as diverse as campaigning to save the capital’s cultural venues, supporting the launch of the new Fashion District in east London and developing initiatives such as the London Borough of Culture (Waltham Forest is the first borough to enjoy this accolade). However, her proudest achievement to date is the development of the Fourth Plinth programme, which commissions leading artists to create sculptures for display on the once-empty plinth in Trafalgar Square. ‘It is arguably the world’s most renowned sculpture commission and puts contemporary art in the middle of one of London’s most famous locations,’ Simons says. ‘And, well, it is kind of bonkers. It is both stellar public art and the source of much argument – and that’s what is brilliant about it.’ www.london.gov.uk
CAROLINE RUSH CEO of the British Fashion Council London’s fashion industry owes a debt to Caroline Rush. Since becoming Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council in 2009, she’s ensured that the city’s fashion scene has become the envy of the world. High-profile brands such as Burberry and Victoria Beckham have left the catwalks of Milan and New York to show instead at London Fashion Week (LFW) during her tenure, while last year she orchestrated what was perhaps the biggest coup of all: inviting the Queen to sit in the front row of designer Richard Quinn’s autumn/winter 2018 show. ‘It was such a privilege to have the Queen in attendance and it was a proud moment for all of us,’ says Rush. Encouraging wider acknowledgment of the power of British fashion has been a key mission for Rush. Whether it’s commissioning impact studies showing how much the industry contributes to the UK economy, nurturing fledgling talent with bursaries through initiatives such as NEWGEN, or opening up the LFW catwalks to a wider audience through live streaming, Rush has brought professionalism to the industry. She acknowledges that none of this would have been possible without a network of renowned fashion schools – the incubators of young talent – and says: ‘We have some of the best fashion schools in the world here and it is the importance we give to creativity and innovation that makes London’s fashion scene so special.’ www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk
Opening on International Women’s Day, the Southbank Centre’s festival (8-9 Mar) marks the launch of The WOW Foundation, which celebrates the work of women around the world. The festival was founded by Dame Jude Kelly, who is establishing WOW worldwide. The London festival includes American activist and author Angela Davis in conversation, as well as British comedian Jo Brand. www.southbankcentre.co.uk
PREVIOUS PAGES AND THIS PAGE: CLARE SMYTH IMAGES COURTESY OF CORE; INDHU RUBASINGHAM © MARK DOUET; JUSTINE SIMONS COURTESY OF GLA; CAROLINE RUSH © BFG; WOW FESTIVAL COURTESY OF SOUTHBANK CENTRE
INDHU RUBASINGHAM Artistic Director of the Kiln Theatre
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pleasure From power lunches to brilliant bars, Sarah Riches looks at how you can mix business and pleasure in the capital
The British Library
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Madison London
THE BRITISH LIBRARY © MIKE O’DWYER; MADISON © JUSTINE TRICKETT; GORMLEY & GAMBLE COURTESY OF GORMLEY & GAMBLE
SUITS YOU Whether you need a new suit, want to catch up on emails outside your hotel Gormley & room, have a business breakfast or Gamble need to impress a client, London has somewhere for you. As an experienced traveller, you’re used to managing with hand luggage, but if you’ve packed too lightly and need new business attire then visit Savile Row in Mayfair. The street has been associated with tailoring since the early 1800s and is still lined with tailors, from Henry Poole to Alexander McQueen. Gieves & Hawkes, another Savile Row stalwart, was founded as single companies in 1784 and 1771 respectively, merging in the rexit or no Brexit, London is 1970s. While it originally designed military still a global city: investors from uniforms, it has suited and booted Winston South Korea and Hong Kong Churchill, Charlie Chaplin and Michael have recently bought Goldman Jackson. It has a Royal Warrant, which means Sachs’ and UBS’s headquarters respectively, it supplies the royal household. Bespoke while major corporations such as Chanel designs take 12 weeks, but you can buy have chosen to set up a global office in a ready-made suit from around £800 the capital. A raft of international hotel (www.gievesandhawkes.com). chains including The Westin London City, Ladies should head to Gormley & Gamble, The Standard London and Hard Rock Hotel which describes itself as ‘Savile Row for plan to open new branches in the capital women’. While studying costume design at in 2019, too – proving business is booming. university, Phoebe Gormley took a gamble It’s no wonder then that Forbes recently and dropped out to found the business – rated the UK as number one (out of 161 hence the name. Gormley hit the jackpot and countries) for the second year running now she designs for women only, so if you’re as the best country for business, based after a hand-finished, silk-lined suit, you’ll on factors such as innovation, taxes, find it here (www.gormleyandgamble.com). infrastructure and investor protection.
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POWER LUNCH If your day begins before 9am, then head to the Riding House Café in Fitzrovia. Alone and need to be quick? Why not grab a smoothie and sit on a velvet stool at the counter? Or, if you have a morning business meeting, you can linger over smoked salmon royale, shakshuka or buttermilk pancakes. Well-spaced tables and opaque windows provide privacy (www.ridinghouse.cafe). The Delaunay’s marble floor, brass fittings and high ceilings give it a sense of occasion at any time of the day. Dining alone? Then you might want to sit at the counter and use its free Wi-Fi, while you set yourself up for the day with eggs cooked in any style you fancy. There’s lots of space between each table to give you privacy for business calls, but if you want to be sure you won’t be heard, book the private dining room (www.thedelaunay.com). Madison London is located in the centre of the City, with views of St Paul’s Cathedral. Its rooftop terrace has secluded booths which are ideal for private discussions, and there’s free Wi-Fi, too (www.madisonlondon.net). If you’re organising a group lunch for clients or colleagues coming from all directions, then the Italian restaurant Sartoria in Mayfair is a central option. Tables are spacious, the dining area has plenty of plug sockets and free Wi-Fi, and set lunches range between £26 and £32. The venue also has three private rooms, or counter seating at the bar if you’re alone (www.sartoria-restaurant.co.uk). w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 15
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WHERE NOW | BUSINESS AND PLEASURE The British Library
There’s space between tables to give you privacy for business
Located right in the heart of the City, 20 Fenchurch Street – better known as the Walkie Talkie building – is a perfect spot for business and pleasure. With uninterrupted views across London, it contains a bar, two restaurants (Darwin Brasserie and Fenchurch Restaurant) and an open-air terrace adjacent to what is London’s highest public garden (www.skygarden.london).
WORK IT If all you and your laptop need is a quiet space with free Wi-Fi, then get to work at The British Library near King’s Cross. Regular visitors may want to consider taking out an annual membership (£80) to access the members’ room; otherwise you can work in its quiet cafés, where tables are next to stacks of books. The library hosts regular talks, workshops and one-to-one advice sessions on topics ranging from writing
a business plan to building a brand and selling a new product. There is also a free cloakroom with lockers (www.bl.uk). Bishopsgate Institute, opposite Liverpool Street Station, also has a free library. You are welcome to use your laptop and Wi-Fi is free. There are newspapers and current affairs magazines to read while you’re there, too (www.bishopsgate.org.uk). Nearby, The Hoxton is a hipster hotel with a ground-floor café and bar that’s very popular with laptop users. If it’s full, pop by Bulldog Edition, the café in Ace Hotel London Shoreditch, instead. This trendy hotel has free Wi-Fi throughout (www.thehoxton.com).
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Another great option for lunch or dinner is Les 110 de Taillevent in Marylebone. The sister venue of a two-Michelin-star Parisian restaurant, it has counter seating, plenty of plug sockets and free Wi-Fi, as well as a lunch menu ranging between £23 and £28 – dine on the terrace if it’s sunny. It also has an after-work menu with dishes such as cold-pressed beef fillet infused with plum brandy. If you’re here to work – but not that hard – then book the private dining room and get stuck into its wine list, which offers 110 wines by the glass (www.les-110-taillevent-london.com). Come evening, if you need to impress a client then take them to Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, which opened in 1916 in Mayfair. If you or your dining companion smoke, then sit on the terrace, which has a relaxed ambience. Alternatively, you can sit on one of the stud-edged stools that line the marble-topped bar or in well-spaced leather booths which have large tables – plenty of room for laptops. Wi-Fi is included, naturally! The dining room is more formal, and it has private dining rooms with free tea and coffee if you need privacy to seal a deal (www.bentleys.org). 16 W H E R E LO N D O N I M A R C H 2019
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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ NEW YORK POST
THE MUSICAL #BeMoreMatilda
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Midi Marylebone Tech Tote in Monochrome Mix with charger pack Aspinal of London, £850, 16 Regent St, SW1Y 4PH
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar IWC Schaffhausen Boutique, £45,950, 138 New Bond St, W1S 2TJ
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The ceiling during conservation work at Old Royal Naval College
SIGHTSEEING ‘ The ceiling, featuring works by Rubens, is the star of the show’
BANQUETING HOUSE © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/PETER LI; PAINTED HALL © LINDA NYLIND; SPENCER HOUSE © CHRISTOPHER DRAKE; JEWEL TOWER © ENGLISH HERITAGE TRUST
V
eiled in scaffolding for two years, the restored Painted Hall is about to be revealed at the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich (from 23 Mar; p. 28). Its ceiling and walls were adorned with James Thornhill paintings during the 18th century and have been marvelled over ever since, so I’ve been craning my neck around town to inspect this and other celebrated ceilings. I was excited to visit a lesser-known palatial home, Spencer House in St James’s (p. 30). Overlooking Green Park and a few doors away from Clarence House (the Prince of Wales’ home), the Spencers are relations of Princess Diana. The house was built by Lord Spencer in 1766 after he married Georgiana Poyntz (the subject of the 2008 film The Duchess). The house’s Imperial Rome-inspired interiors are beautiful and, in places, almost as majestic as Buckingham Palace. This is thanks to the ceilings, in particular The Great Room’s. The curved, green and gold design includes large, bronzed plaster medallions depicting Apollo, Bacchus, Venus and the Three Graces. Spencer House’s rooms are open for tours on Sundays.
Next, I headed to Banqueting House (p. 22) on Whitehall, the last remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall (the rest was destroyed by fire). Banqueting House was rebuilt several times and the current incarnation was built for King James I in 1622. Its ceiling is the star of the show: it features works by the Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens. Bean bags are provided, so you can lie back and take a comfortable look. Incidentally, this was the last room Charles I walked through before he was beheaded. Another witness to a huge fire is the Jewel Tower (p. 25), which lies between Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament. It was part of King Edward III’s palace until almost all of it burned down, making this survivor 654 years old. Its medieval interior includes an ornate vaulted ceiling featuring sculpted stones that are carved into ghoulish faces. As for the Old Royal Naval College, its refurbished Painted Hall was still under wraps when I embarked upon my ceiling tour, but it’s sure to be stunning: it took Thornhill 19 years to finish and is Britain’s largest painted ceiling. There’s a new entrance, café, shop and gallery space, too, giving you plenty of reasons to sail down the Thames to Greenwich.
Spencer House
Jewel Tower
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SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.englishheritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit
This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by the celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens (p. 21). It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Daily 10am-4.30pm or dusk. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
The British Library The world’s largest library has a great permanent collection and many temporary exhibitions. To 17 Mar: Cats on the Page. The library’s entrance hall is taken over by literary cats, from the children’s story book Mog to Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats by TS Eliot. From 22 Mar: The New Londoners. Chris Steele-Perkins presents his series of photographs, which depicts one family from each country in the world and the home they’ve made in London (p. 28). Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. DID C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarch has 775 rooms. Normally closed to the public, it’s possible to tour the state rooms during the summer. www.rct. uk/buckingham palace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
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Petal power
Chiswick House & Gardens’ Camellia Show is back, taking place in its Grade I-listed, 18th-century conservatory (1-31 Mar). The impressive structure was built to house Chiswick House’s original shipment of camellias from China in 1828 and, while the collection has expanded, experts believe that many of the camellias you see there are the originals. The star of the festival is the rare Middlemist’s Red camellia, of which there is only one other example in the world. There are 32 varieties of the flower to discover and if browsing turns to buying, you can purchase heritage camellias at the pop-up shop (23-24 Mar). Elsewhere, Chiswick House’s gardens offer plenty to explore, including huge Lebanon cedar trees..
Changing the Guard
Chelsea Physic Garden
Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. From 10am; check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical specimens in glasshouses. 27 Mar: Mother’s Day British Academy of Floral Art Workshop. Two floristry masters host a full day of activity, included a garden tour and lunch; £220. Free daily tours. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm, or dusk if earlier. Adult £6.50; child £4.50. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
YOU KNOW?
American President Donald Trump’s waxwork is on display at Madame Tussauds. Human hair and yak hair is on his head, while squirrel hair is used for his eyebrows
The Charterhouse Dating back to 1348, this historic site was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. Previously hidden in plain sight by a high border wall, the handsome Charterhouse has only been open to the public since 2017. 24 Mar: Family Tour. This child-friendly version of the tour admits two children free per paying adult; 11am-11.45am or noon-12.45pm. Tue-Sun 11am-5.30pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour from £10; Brothers’ tour from £15. www.thecharter house.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.
Chiswick House & Gardens With neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. 1-31 Mar: Camellia Show. More than 30 varieties are displayed in the Grade I-listed conservatory. House closed to 1 Apr; gardens daily 7am-dusk; admission free. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.
Cutty Sark Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper, located in Greenwich. Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
MIDDLEMIST’S RED © JOHN FIELDING; DONALD TRUMP WAXWORK COURTESY OF MADAME TUSSAUDS
Banqueting House
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This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
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‘Unmissable’ VOGUE
‘Stunning’ HARPER’S BAZAAR
★★★★★ ‘The greatest fashion show the V&A has ever staged’ THE TELEGRAPH
V&A South Kensington Advanced booking highly recommended #DiorDesignerofDreams vam.ac.uk Supported by
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Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Try on one of the Silent Night tours Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, which was first published in 1755, in this 18th-century home. Check for staged performances, talks and tours. Current exhibition, Curious Travellers: Dr Johnson and Thomas Pennant on Tour, explores how Johnson and his contemporary Pennant toured Scotland and Wales to become pioneers of the travel-writing genre. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. Look out for regular tours and events. Sun-Fri 10am-4pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
BORN AGAIN Crossness Pumping Station was built by Sir Joseph Bazalgette in 1865 for London’s sewage system. In this Grade I-listed building, you’ll discover a story of beauty and the beast: the station is festooned with cast iron, creating swirling shapes. It closed after asbestos was discovered, but thanks to a public campaign, it is reopening in time for Bazalgette’s 200th birthday. On its open day (31 Mar), you can tour the building and see old steam engines. The Old Works, Bazalgette Way, SE2 9AQ. T: 020-8311 3711. www.crossness.org.uk Fulham Palace
Go Ape Alexandra Palace
This attractive 15th-century building was the retreat of the Bishops of London. 5 & 17 Mar: Garden Walk. Guided tour of the garden; 2pm-3pm. 22 Mar: Opera at the Palace. The National Opera Studio presents a performance; from £25, booking essential. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm, Sun & bank hols noon-4pm; botanical gardens daily; great hall closed for restoration to Apr. Admission free, charges for events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
A treetop obstacle course for children with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill. While you are there, you can enjoy the beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. This is a stone’s throw from the iconic entertainment venue, Alexandra Palace, with its recently refurbished theatre. Daily; check for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.
CROSSNESS PUMPING STATION © CROSSNESS ENGINES TRUST
Dennis Severs’ House
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SIGHTSEEING Go Ape Battersea Park
HMS Belfast
Keats House
Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Check online for times and prices. www.goape. co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. You can explore all nine decks of HMS Belfast to discover what life was like on board for the crew at war and at sea. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. To 28 Apr: Keats at Wentworth Place. Exhibition exploring the poet’s time at the Hampstead address where he met Brawne. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tours at 1.30pm & 3pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. From 16 Mar the house is fully open for visitors, as opposed to selected rooms before this date. General admission daily noon-4pm; garden, shop and café daily 10am-5pm. To 15 Mar adult £11.05, child £5.50; from 16 Mar adult £12.50, child £6.25. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. 5 Mar: Bach and Beyond. An evening of 17th-century violin pieces; £12, 6.30pm. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. Tours Sat. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; childfriendly family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
Jewel Tower Known as the ‘King’s Privy Wardrobe’ and built around 1365 to house King Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left of the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings (p. 21). Learn about the history of weights and measures and admire the tower’s 14th-century ribbed vault. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. It often hosts exhibitions. To 8 Mar: The Favourite Costume Display. Explore the wardrobe from the new feature film about Queen Anne, The Favourite. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough paintings. Look out for regular family events and activities. Daily 10am-4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 0208348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
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SIGHTSEEING The London Bridge Experience & London Tombs
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Treetop Walkway offers great views. To 10 Mar: Orchids: Celebrate the Colour of Colombia. For its annual orchids festival, the Princess of Wales Conservatory is dedicated to the country that boasts the world’s largest variety of species. Enjoy dramatic arrangements and a pop-up café inspired by Bogotá. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £18, child £6; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
DID YOU KNOW? Every morning at ZSL London Zoo, a keeper has to level out all the holes that the aardvarks dig during the night
KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as kids take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy. Daily from 10am; closing times vary so please check; closed 4-5, 11-12, 18-19 & 25-26 Mar. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Take part in an exciting history lesson on the fascinating past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this scary attraction to life. The venue is located in a former plague pit. Get lost in a terrifying, scary maze. Over the years, many sightings have been recorded by paranormal investigators. Tickets include admission to the London Tombs, located under the bridge, Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
London Mithraeum
The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters, special effects and rides. You will laugh and scream at the cutting-edge storytelling. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times, prices and special events. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/ Westminster/Embankment.
Located on the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains are brought to life through an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Discover more than 600 objects left by the first Londoners, as well as see modern art on the ground floor. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.
ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Camel Chat. Daily from 10am; please check online for closing times and prices. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
IMAGE © PA
A Royal Wedding (1 Mar-22 Apr) will form part of your visit to Windsor Castle. This special exhibition features the outfits worn by HRH Princess Eugenie and Mr Jack Brooksbank at their wedding in October 2018. Her Royal Highness’s wedding dress will be displayed alongside the Greville emerald Kokoshnik tiara, earrings and shoes, as well as the groom’s morning coat. The exhibition is free with a standard admission ticket to the castle. Book online for guaranteed entry. www.rct.uk
AARDVARK © ISTOCK
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A world view
When we ask Londoners what makes their city great, many of them say it’s the people. We couldn’t agree more and it seems that photographer Chris Steele-Perkins feels the same way: his ambitious project The New Londoners, which is on at The British Library (from 22 Mar; p. 22; free admission), depicts one family from each country in the world and the home they’ve made here. The photographer calls it ‘a record of a new London, a new Britain and a celebration of the fabulous cultural richness of London.’ Steele-Perkins grew up in Myanmar, leaving with his family in 1949 when Britain’s colonial rule of the country came to an end. He spent time working around the world, but in London Steele-Perkins has found the whole planet in one place.
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NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor
Madame Tussauds
Old Royal Naval College
The Royal Observatory
The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film, the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony, or ‘Tom Hearty’: a model of actor Tom Hardy with a heartbeat. Other recent additions include Mo Farah, the Duchess of Sussex with the royal family and Yang Mi. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. C6. Station: Baker Street.
This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours (p. 21). On 23 March, the Painted Hall reopens following a two-year restoration: Britain’s largest painted ceiling was completed over 19 years by James Thornhill in the 1700s. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world. Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have completely changed how we live. Look out for family activities and events. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Book online to save. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to the top and enjoy views across the capital in its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, including ICON, an all-new designer brand shopping outlet. Shops include Aspinal of London, Build-A-Bear, Cath Kidston, Clarks and more. Restaurants range from fine dining to food on-the-go, and there’s a selection of bars. There is also a trampoline park from Oxygen Freejumping with slides and a bouncy square. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Royal Mews This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Learn about the mews’ illustrious history through games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s magnificent interior. To 24 Mar Mon-Sat 10am-4pm; from 25 Mar daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives free. www.rct.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
SEA LIFE London One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
THE NEW LONDONERS © CHRIS STEELE-PERKINS
The Monument
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
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SIGHTSEEING Spencer House
18 Stafford Terrace
St Katharine Docks
This aristocratic palace was built in 1766 by Lord Spencer, an ancestor of Princess Diana (p. 21). This is one of London’s finest surviving 18th-century town houses. Overlooking Green Park, it has sumptuous, Imperial Rome-inspired interiors. Designed by John Vardy and James ‘Athenian’ Stuart, the state rooms are among the first neo-classical interiors in Europe. It is possible to visit Spencer House’s eight state rooms on a guided tour. Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; Mon pre-booked groups only. Adult £15; child £12. www.spencerhouse.co.uk. 27 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. E7. Station: Green Park.
This house offers an insight into the personal lives of the Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who resided here from 1875. A highlight of the house is the costumed actor tour, which take place every Saturday from 11am. On the tour you will meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell, who play out a dramatic story based on old diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. A vibrant waterside destination, it’s lined with markets, shops, galleries and restaurants. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music and art exhibitions. Holy Communion is given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. 4 Mar: Free Lunchtime Concert. Enjoy a 45-minute performance for the 2019 Chamber Music Competition; from 1pm. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.st martin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check for bridge lift times. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm; 28 Mar 10am-5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
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SIGHTSEEING Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable, 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular, 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Alternatively, make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco; £37.50, book online. To 23 Mar MonWed & Sun 10am-8pm, Thur-Sat 10am-10pm; from 24 Mar daily 10am-10pm. Adult £32; child £25; tickets must be purchased in advance online. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for the Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. The entire route takes approximately an hour. To 25 Mar Mon-Fri 11am-3pm, Sat-Sun 11am-3.40pm; from 26 Mar daily 11am-5pm. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
City Cruises Enjoy daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Boats have café-bars with sandwiches, snacks, soft drinks, wine, beer and more. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Special events include a Murder Mystery cruise (13 Mar) and Tina Turner Tribute cruise (18 Apr). Other cruises are also available as well as private hire. Check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. It’s a fascinating insight into film-making. Please check for times. Adult £43; child £35. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
CHANGING THE GUARD © VISIT LONDON/PAWEL LIBERA
Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In 2018 the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium: a new tower that leads to The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, this new exhibition space tells the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects (p. 32). Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm; closed 9, 11 & 21 Mar. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £22; child £9. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £27; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
Includes Russia, Royalty and the Romanovs and Roger Fenton’s Photographs of the Crimea, 1855
WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens that are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. 2 Mar: Meet the Cows. A free, half-hour insight into how the reserve’s cows are looked after behind the scenes; 10am & 1.30pm. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £13; child £7.90. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
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SIGHTSEEING London Eye River Cruise
Thames River Services
Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. To 29 Mar daily 10.45am-4.45pm; from 30 Mar daily 10.45am-5.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary. To 25 Mar departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10.20am-3pm and from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11.20am-4pm; from 26 Mar 10am-4pm and 11am-5pm. Check for prices. www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures every 20 minutes. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off (valid all day from 9am) advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90. Adult single journeys from £4.60. www.mbna thamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.
Thamesjet Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. 12 Mar, 12.30pm, Farringdon Station: Plague and Fire. Learn more about two of the city’s darkest moments: the Black Death and the Great Fire of London. 27 & 29 Mar, 1pm, Chancery Lane Station: Regicide. Discover how the English Civil War played out in this part of London, including the execution of King Charles I. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.
Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top, double-decker buses. Various ticket packages are available, from one to three days. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Classic Ticket (one day) adult £37; child £19. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.
WINDSOR CASTLE
Big Bus Walking Tours
WINDSOR
Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade. Daily 10.30am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours. co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
Visit Westminster Abbey, which is where the royal wedding of William and Kate took place (p. 31)
HOME OF THE
ROYAL WEDDING XXXX
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SIGHTSEEING City of London Guides Walks
The London Helicopter Tour
London Literary Pub Crawl
Choose from a variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and several City gardens, all within London’s historic Square Mile. Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityoflondonguides.com. Departure points vary.
Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views of London landmarks. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from different tours: 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Packages also include Downton Abbey, Stonehenge and Kew Gardens Picnic. Prices start at £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity, Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British film industry. The tour also looks at contemporary places, including those relevant to songwriters such as Sir Paul McCartney and Jimi Hendrix. Sat 5pm. Tickets £24; booking strongly advised. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. You can visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratford-upon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle, Oxford, Cambridge and Brighton. The company has an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Hairy Goat Photography Tours Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the acclaimed Hairy Goat has both daytime and evening options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details of grand, old and new architecture, as well as the street and river scenes that make London a joy to photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.
SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience. Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.
Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. You will visit more murder sites and locations related to these notorious crimes than on other Jack the Ripper walks. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
Kia Oval Tours
London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in some of Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you will learn about how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £40). www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park station, by exit closest to The Ritz hotel. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.
TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES
VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION. 02514
WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK
Tour the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.
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SIGHTSEEING London Magical Tours
London Walks
Original London Sightseeing Walk
The award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.
London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from the Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, Girls Day Out and A Royal Morning in London. Check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 07498-036295.
Neverland Children’s Tours Providing fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and above, the aim of Neverland Children’s Tours is to make London sightseeing interactive and fun. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 0203239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.50. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Royal Opera House
OOD G Y L G YIN HORrIF
One of the world’s leading opera venues and home to the Royal Ballet company. A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium, the Royal Retiring Room and even backstage as the Opera House prepares for that evening’s performance. Backstage Tour, most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, £12-£15; Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour, selected days 4pm until 21 Mar, £12-£15. www.roh.org.uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
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This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one the city’s only thatched roof, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. The half-hour tour begins every 30 minutes. Daily 9.30am-5pm; exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ISTOCK
Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. There are regular departures outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
Visit the iconic Royal Albert Hall
FREE audio guides available
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SIGHTSEEING Twizy Tours
Blenheim Palace
Chartwell
Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by a GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent an adorable Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. Prices from £30 per rental. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. To 16 Mar: Art and the Churchill Family. This exhibition showcases Winston Churchill’s Impressionist-style paintings. Palace daily 10.30am4.30pm, park daily 9am-6pm or dusk, formal gardens daily 10.30am-4.30pm. Palace, Park & Gardens adult £27; child £15.50. Park & Gardens adult £16; child £7.40. Under-fives free. www.blenheim palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill. While Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living here, it was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation. The site includes a kitchen garden, woodlands and a restaurant: enjoy a wintry walk across the Chartwell estate and then warm up with a coffee in the café. House Mon-Fri 11.30am5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; garden and restaurant daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.20; child £3.60. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted.
Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at the UK’s largest famous football stadium and concert venue. This is home to England’s glorious 1966 World Cup victory, UEFA Champions League triumphs and sell-out concerts and sporting spectacles. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. It’s your chance to create some new ones of your own in the most famous stadium in the world. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.bookings.wembleytours.com. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last up to two hours in either a four- or six-seater carriage, with an adjustable hood to accomodate any weather. £550 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, the world’s greatest collection of pre-Raphaelite paintings, the only great Minoan collection in Britain, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. From 25 Mar: Dimensions: The Mathematics of Symmetry and Patterns. From ancient cultures to the latest scientific discoveries, this exhibition was developed with Oxford’s Mathematical Institute. To 9 Jun: Jeff Koons. Curated in partnership with the American artist, explore 17 artworks dating from the 1980s to the present day. Daily 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
WITH AFTERNOON TEA Experience London’s most beloved venue followed by a traditional afternoon tea
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SIGHTSEEING Hampton Court Palace
Osterley Park and House
Syon Park
Once the favourite residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. To 24 Mar daily 10am-4.30pm; from 25 Mar daily 10am-6pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Explore this beautiful country home, decorated as it would have been in the 1780s. Garden daily 10am-5pm; full house daily 11am-4pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.
Closed until 10 Mar. This stunning Palladian mansion set in glorious parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. From 11 Mar gardens daily 10.30am-5pm; house Wed, Thur, Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.
Hever Castle and Gardens Dating back to the 13th-century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors, the work of the Astor family during the 20th century. Outside, the castle’s gardens feature statuary and a lake for boat rides. 20-24 Mar: Dazzling Daffodils. Approximately 14,000 daffodil bulbs emerge across the castle’s gardens, with many different varieties to enjoy. Wed-Sun 10.30am-4.30pm, castle from noon. Adult £17.75; child £9.95. www.hevercastle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge.
Leeds Castle A fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle in the ‘garden of England’, with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display in the castle grounds. Grounds and garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm. Adult £25.50; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £15; child £8.70. www.rct.uk/ palaceofholyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.
DID YOU KNOW? The waxwork of the Queen that is currently on display at Madame Tussauds is the 23rd to have been made. Images of the clay head were sent to Buckingham Palace during the creative process
Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old, with obscure Neolithic origins. To 21 Apr: Making Connections: Stonehenge in its Prehistoric World. In collaboration with The British Museum, this display of precious objects reveals the habits of those alive when Stonehenge was built. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
ROYAL ALBERT HALL AFTERNOON TEA
Warwick Castle Built in 914 by Ethelfleda, then enhanced by William the Conqueror in 1068. Open daily, subject to weather; please check for times. Castle adult £20, child £18; castle & dungeon adult £24, child £21. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 10am5.15pm; state apartments closed 22 Mar. Adult £22.50; child £13. www.rct.uk/windsorcastle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Explore Victorian London
Traditional afternoon tea served in the iconic Royal Albert Hall.
12 cable street, london, e1 8jg
Served Tuesday - Sunday 2:00pm - 4:30pm.
www.jacktherippermuseum.com 020 7488 9811
BOOK NOW: royalalberthall.com/afternoontea | 020 7589 8212
20% off admission door price (with this advert)
THE QUEEN WAXWORK © MADAME TUSSAUDS
open daily 09:30 – 18:30 six floors exploring the history of jack the ripper and his victims ripper walk 3pm daily vip, group & private tours available
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Feel wonder first hand
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VINCENT VAN GOGH’S SUNFLOWERS © THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON/BOUGHT, COURTAULD FUND 1924
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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VINCENT VAN GOGH’S SUNFLOWERS © THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON/BOUGHT, COURTAULD FUND 1924
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
A young van Gogh proclaimed: ‘ I love London’
V
incent van Gogh painted just one image of London. Prisoners Exercising depicts a sad, 19th-century scene at the long-since-demolished Newgate Prison that was completed while he was staying in a French asylum. Despite this bleak outcome, van Gogh was happy during his time in London – and Tate Britain is about to prove it. Van Gogh and Britain (from 27 Mar; p. 42) brings together more than 45 works by the legendary Post-Impressionist. In letters written while living here from 1873 to 1876, a young van Gogh proclaimed: ‘I love London.’ The aim of this major exhibition is to demonstrate how he found inspiration in his strong affection for the city. John Constable’s landscapes made a significant impact on van Gogh’s developing style. One of Britain’s most celebrated painters, Constable was revered for capturing his native Suffolk countryside. The results of this influence on van Gogh are his popular landscapes – on display will be the skittering browns and greens of Avenue of Poplars in Autumn, as well as Starry Night over the Rhône. The work of Charles Dickens also crept into the artist’s mind – the author died only a few years before van Gogh moved here. There’s no doubt that choosing to highlight London suffering in Prisoners Exercising was a very Dickensian decision. In addition, Tate is displaying L’Arlésienne because it prominently depicts a copy of Dickens’ Christmas Stories. Apparently, van Gogh reread the book every year. The stars of the show are set to be van Gogh’s vivid, blue and orange 1889 self-portrait and The National Gallery’s Sunflowers (left). Tate Britain is also displaying works by British painters who were in turn motivated by van Gogh in their own work, such as Francis Bacon. Tate Britain’s director Alex Farquharson explains the significance of the new show: ‘Our last van Gogh exhibition was held in 1947 and it introduced his work to a whole generation of artists working in Britain.’
NEIL SIMPSON Museums & Galleries Editor
MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the tunnel, the dugout and more. Museum and self-guided tours Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; check for match-related closures. Legends Tours from 11am onwards (check for times). Self-guided: adult £23; child £15. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20. Free admission to museum. www.arsenal.com/ tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today. Exhibiting its books, silver and photographs. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankof england.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
The Cinema Museum Focusing on the early years of cinema, this museum displays memorabilia and screening equipment. To 10 Mar: Andy Holden – Laws of Motion in a Cartoon Landscape. Watch this film in the auditorium; daily from noon; free (£3 donation encouraged). Check for events and tours; no tours until 11 Mar. Guided tour adult £10; child £7. www.cinemamuseum.org.uk. 2 Dugard Way, SE11 4TH. T: 020-7840 2200. G9. Station: Elephant & Castle.
Clink Prison Museum In this former prison dating back to 1144, discover London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former inmates; check for Haunted Happenings events. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Design Museum
Charming townhouse and the last home of the American founding father. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; Historical Experience show Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical Experience: adult £8; child free. www.ben jaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
One of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. To 24 Mar: Home Futures. In partnership with the IKEA Museum, this looks back at past predictions for the future of housing. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Body Worlds
Fashion and Textile Museum
Benjamin Franklin House
Known around the world, this museum brand specialises in the human body. Sun-Thur 9.30am-7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm. Advance adult £24.50, child £17.50; on the day adult £28, child £22. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. The London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery. To 2 Jun: Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution. Celebrating Terence Conran and Mary Quant. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
The British Museum
Florence Nightingale Museum
Unrivalled collection of antiquities including treasures from Ancient Egypt. Sat-Thur 10am5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Russell Square.
Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse. To 16 Jun: Spanish Flu. Learn about a pandemic that infected half of the world. Free 15-min tour MonSun 3.30pm & Sat-Sun 11.30am. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8, child £4. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
Charles Dickens Museum Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. To 21 Apr: Food Glorious Food: Dinner with Dickens. Dickens’ dining room is set for a lavish Victorian dinner. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Guided one-hour tours of the dressing room, players’ tunnel and press room. Open daily, check for times and closures. Tour and museum adult £24, child £15 (discount for online bookings); museum only adult £12, child £10; monthly ex-players tour from £80. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0371-811 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Churchill War Rooms Explore the secret bunker where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £22; child £11. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children was set up by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Check for regular exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The Guards Museum History, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.
Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventuring Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at tthe end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73 www.wheretraveler.com 39
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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The naked truth
The Royal Academy of Arts explores how nudity was depicted by artists during the 15th and 16th centuries in its new exhibition, The Renaissance Nude (from 3 Mar; p. 41). This is a chance to see 90 pieces of European art at the gallery, arranged into five themed sections and ranging from modelled cast silver by Moderno, to Raphael’s red chalk sketches. The RA’s intention is to demonstrate the shift in how Europe’s art maestros depicted the naked body, which had a wider and permanent impact on all of European art. While you may think that attitudes towards the human body relaxed during the Renaissance, after Michelangelo’s death in 1564 Pope Pius IV ordered the nudity in the Sistine Chapel’s Last Judgement to be painted over. So, if you value the fight for freedom of artistic expression, this is where to celebrate 90 victories.
Mandela: The Official Exhibition
National Maritime Museum
Learn about the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8.50; child £6.50. www.householdcavalry museum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.
Nelson Mandela’s life is told through immersive zones. You can see his possessions from Robben Island. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £13.50. www.mandelaexhibition.com. 26 Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7928 4944. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Get up close to the objects that made history, from iconic maritime exhibits to British art. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
Imperial War Museum
The Museum of Freemasonry
Natural History Museum
Huge displays relating to global conflicts. To 31 Mar: Making a New World. This exhibition marks 100 years since the end of World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.
Jack the Ripper Museum More than just an exploration of the serial killer’s crimes, within this Victorian house you’ll also discover the history of east London. Daily 9.30am6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jacktheripper museum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East/Tower Hill.
Leighton House Museum
English Freemasonry emerged in the 1700s and is celebrated at this museum and library. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.freemasonry. london.museum. Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. D8. Station: Holborn.
Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits, including Roman and Medieval London. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Museum of London Docklands
The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life. Wed-Mon 10am5.30pm; 3pm tour every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the area. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.
London Transport Museum
Interactive displays and exhibitions telling the story of soldiers’ lives from Tudor times to the present day. Daily 10am-5.30pm; 6 Mar until 8pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
This museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
National Army Museum
Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
The Postal Museum This museum tells the story of the ‘first social network’. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum only: adult £11; child free. Museum and Mail Rail: adult £17.05; child £10.45. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Queen’s House Located in the heart of Greenwich, this royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tour. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the RAF, with more than 100 aircraft on show. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for experiences. www.raf museum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
DOSSO DOSSI’S ALLEGORY OF FORTUNE © THE J PAUL GETTY MUSEUM, LOS ANGELES/IMAGE COURTESY OF THE GETTY’S OPEN CONTENT PROGRAM
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Household Cavalry Museum
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Science Museum Huge museum dedicated to science, medicine and technology. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century house was owned by the architect Sir John Soane. Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Somerset House This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the Thames houses the Embankment Galleries. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.
Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition on its 300-year history. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
The Vault Home to rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia. Daily 11.30am10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years. To 14 Jul: Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. See his dramatic couture, sketches and vintage perfume bottles. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
The Wallace Collection A beautiful collection of Rococo art. Daily 10am5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s venue has hundreds of artefacts relating to the body. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
HELMET HEAD NO 7 BY HENRY MOORE © HENRY MOORE FOUNDATION
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours Closed to 7 Mar. At the venue of the famous championships, see old trophies and rackets. From 8 Mar daily 10am-5pm. Museum only adult £13, child £8; Museum & tour adult £25, child £15. One child goes free with every full-price adult ticket. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 0208946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields, then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
World Rugby Museum This is a showcase for global rugby culture. Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm; no tours 8, 9, 15, 16, 19 & 20 Mar. Museum adult £12.50; child £7.50. Museum and stadium tour adult £25; child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.
GALLERIES Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.city oflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s.
Hayward Gallery This recently refurbished gallery is the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre, with exhibitions. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for certain exhibitions. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
TOUGH ON TOP There’s a good chance you have seen Henry Moore’s work. According to the Henry Moore Foundation, the late British sculptor’s work is currently on display in 38 different cities, from Perth to Paris. Of 17 in central London, perhaps the most prominent is his abstract marble, Mother and Child: Hood, inside St Paul’s Cathedral. Moore was a regular visitor at The Wallace Collection in Marylebone, which is exploring his love of armour in The Helmet Heads (from 6 Mar). The display gathers together Moore’s helmet-inspired sculptures, positioning them next to the Renaissance-era armour from The Wallace Collection that inspired him. As a soldier during World War I, it’s unsurprising that Moore regularly came here to sketch the ancient helmets. The gallery has also sourced wartime helmets Moore would have encountered as a soldier.
House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration was founded by Sir Quentin Blake. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s prominent galleries, including works depicting British people in paintings. From 7 Mar: Only Human. See images by photographer Martin Parr, known for his depictions of British culture (p. 42). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. From 8 Mar: Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation Prize. Images by this year’s four finalists. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun & bank hols 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £5; child free. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Queen’s Gallery This gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures. To 28 Apr: Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs. Examining the bond between the British and Russian royal families. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.rct.uk/queensgallerylondon. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.
Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with works in all media. In 2018 it completed a refurbishment. From 3 Mar: The Renaissance Nude. See 90 pieces of European art that demonstrate how nudity was depicted during the 15th and 16th centuries (p. 40). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Green Park.
Royal Society of Sculptors This hub for professional sculptors hosts a regular series of exhibitions on sculpture Mon-Fri 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors.org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 020-7373 8615. Off map Station: Gloucester Road.
Saatchi Gallery See contemporary art in this massive, renovated Georgian building. All of the exhibitions are temporary and usually free. From 15 Mar: Kaleidoscope. A varied array of colourful paintings and sculptures by artists including Copenhagen’s Peter Linde Busk and Londoner Tom Howse. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square. www.wheretraveler.com 41
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Serpentine Gallery Gallery in Kensington Gardens hosting modern and contemporary exhibitions. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Serpentine Sackler Gallery This arts space features a contemporary wing designed by the late architect Dame Zaha Hadid. From 6 Mar: Hito Steyerl: Power Plants. The German artist exhibits videos that explore themes such as media, technology and artificial intelligence. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; building open between exhibitions, but there is not a permanent collection. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Southbank Centre This sprawling arts centre is home to the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall and more. Check for the full programme. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art, including the world’s largest collection of Turner. From 27 Mar: The EY Exhibition: Van Gogh and Britain. See how van Gogh’s love for Britain influenced his art (p. 39). To 6 May: Don McCullin. See more than 250 of the photojournalist’s images. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
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Social snapshots
The National Portrait Gallery is one big celebration of people, so its decision to launch an exhibition dedicated to Martin Parr is wise and well-timed. The British photographer has made his name capturing the peculiarities of humanity around the world, but Only Human (from 7 Mar; p. 41) will also dedicate space to Britain and Parr’s response to Brexit; this section features his recent efforts to convey the country’s mood in the aftermath of the vote. Elsewhere, the exhibition covers portraits of British celebrities, including Vivienne Westwood (right), Tracey Emin and Paul Smith. Parr’s trademark is to capture the strange and humorous side of daily life around the world, so this exhibition is sure to have mass appeal.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Tate Modern
Whitechapel Gallery
See world-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 6 May: Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of Memory. Celebrating the late French painter, this collection demonstrates his talent for conveying emotional moments. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
East End gallery showcasing contemporary art. To 28 Mar: Staging Jackson Pollock. Looking back and reintroducing elements of the gallery’s Pollock exhibition, which took place 60 years ago in 1958. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
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TATE BRITAIN
27 M A R – 11 AU G 2019
THE E Y E XHIBITION
P I M L I CO u F R EE F O R TAT E M E M B ER S With additional support from the Van Gogh Exhibition Supporters Circle, Tate International Council and Tate Members Media partner Vincent van Gogh Self-Portrait Autumn 1889 (detail) National Gallery of Art, Washington. Collection of Mr and Mrs John Hay Whitney, 1998.74.5
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ENTERTAINMENT Sarah Riches discovers how the TV game show The Crystal Maze has been transformed into one of London’s most in-demand nights out
T
he Crystal Maze LIVE Experience, which opened in 2016, has become one of the most sought-after tickets in the city. The immersive experience, based on the 1990s TV game show, is now moving from Islington to London Trocadero at Piccadilly Circus (from 29 Mar; p. 46). Founder Tom Lionetti-Maguire says: ‘I had been working in immersive theatre for a long time before dreaming up [this], and could see the audience’s desire to be part of the action. My family and friends have all been and love it – and they are a diverse bunch, so it really is for everyone.’
The new location is double the size of the previous one, with a new Maze Bar, 32 new games and capacity for triple the number of visitors – including children over 13. It doesn’t matter if you’ve never seen the game show because comical maze masters guide you around the venue, just like the show’s eccentric presenter, Richard O’Brien, did. Each experience is different, so even if you’ve been before you’ll still enjoy it – one visitor went to the Islington branch 18 times. Teams of eight people don retro satin bomber jackets before entering the maze, dashing through Medieval, Aztec, Industrial
and Futuristic adventure zones. Teams get timed trying to complete physical and mental challenges – if they don’t finish, competitors will be temporarily locked in. Lionetti-Maguire adds: ‘Challenges include Crack the Safe, double-sided crosswords and the Eggy Swamp!’ The more challenges that are completed, the more crystals the team wins – and the more time they gain for the final challenge in the Crystal Dome. Unlike the TV show, they won’t win a holiday – instead, they collect golden tickets. So, in the words of O’Brien: ‘Will you start the fans, please!’
SARAH RICHES Entertainment Editor
The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience
IMAGE COURTESY OF THE CRYSTAL MAZE LIVE EXPERIENCE
MAZE OF WONDERS
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ENTERTAINMENT
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Book of Mormon This satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of missionaries. Winner of four Olivier Awards. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Come from Away
From 29 Mar: Fun, interactive experience based on a retro TV show (p. 44). Please check for times and prices. www.the-crystal-maze.com. 22-32 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EJ. T: 0161-791 0727. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Everybody’s Talking About Jamie A feel-good musical set on an estate in Sheffield. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Follies New York, 1971. There’s a party on the stage of the Weismann Theatre before the iconic building will be demolished. Check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Hamilton Set in the late 1700s, this musical has been a hit on Broadway. It’s based on the founding father, Alexander Hamilton. Please check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.
Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Check for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.
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Affairs of the heart
The Golden Globe and Olivier Award winner Tom Hiddleston – who made his name in Thor and The Avengers – is set to star in Betrayal at the Harold Pinter Theatre (from 5 Mar; p. 48). Written by Harold Pinter and first performed in 1978 at the National Theatre, this new version is part of a season of Pinter plays that mark the 10th anniversary of the playwright’s death. It follows two married couples and explores infidelity – in a story that is told in reverse chronological order.
Mamma Mia!
Only Fools and Horses: The Musical
A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
A new musical based on the sitcom (p. 48). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£100. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 0207930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Matilda the Musical
The Phantom of the Opera
Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Long-running Gothic drama in which a man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Motown the Musical
Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and Michael Jackson. Check for times and prices. www.shaftesbury Les Misèrables has been theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, seen by 70 million people 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. in 52 countries and T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: 22 languages around Tottenham Court Road/Holborn. the world
DID YOU KNOW?
The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with costumes and puppetry. Check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
9 to 5 The Musical Fun Dolly Parton musical about women who seek revenge on their sexist boss, starring Brian Conley. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£99.50. www.9to5themusical.co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
School of Rock: The Musical Musical based on the film of the same name. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dancing celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tina: The Tina Turner Musical A musical based on a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become Tina Turner. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£149.50. www.tinathe musical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
BETRAYAL © CHARLIE GRAY
The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience
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A musical set on an island that hosts passengers in the wake of the attack on September 11. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£108. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
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PH ENOMENON
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SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON W1D 6BA
lesmis.com | 0844 482 5151 Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge TM © 1986 CMOL
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ENTERTAINMENT Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
Gillian Anderson and Lily James star in this tale about ambitious actors. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Betrayal From 5 Mar: Tom Hiddleston stars in this revival of Harold Pinter’s play (p. 46). Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Black Is the Color of My Voice To 2 Mar: Play inspired by the life of Nina Simone. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Sat 3pm. Please check for prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.
The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time This award-winning play follows an autistic boy as he searches for a missing dog. Please check for times and prices. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and comedy. Tickets include a meal. Check for times. Tickets £75-£80. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
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Girl power
A play that premiered at the Royal Court Theatre in 1982 is making a comeback, this time at the National Theatre. Written by Caryl Churchill and directed by Lyndsey Turner, Top Girls (from 26 Mar) is set in Thatcher’s Britain of the 1980s and deals with the themes of powerful women and self-achievement. Marlene (Katherine Kingsley) is the first woman to head the employment agency Top Girls – and she has some ambitious plans. But as you get to know the characters, you might begin to wonder whether women really can have it all.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s story. Please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes in Agatha Christie’s whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mouse trap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Top Girls From 26 Mar: Follows Marlene, the first woman to head the Top Girls employment agency. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£68. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
When We Have Sufficiently Tortured Each Other To 2 Mar: Cate Blanchett stars in this exploration of desire. Check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Witness for the Prosecution Drama based on Agatha Christie’s novel. Check for times. Tickets from £10-£79.50. www.witnesscounty hall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo.
The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel. Check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewoman inblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Royal Albert Hall 21-24 Mar: Classical Spectacular. 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £18.50-£73.50. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.
LOVELY JUBBLY The British sitcom Only Fools and Horses has been reincarnated as a musical with the same name at the Theatre Royal Haymarket (p. 46). Set in 1989 in south London, it follows a loveable working-class family as they attempt to get rich quick. Jim Sullivan, the son of the original TV series’ writer, has co-written the musical along with comedian Paul Whitehouse. Sullivan says: ‘We wanted to stay faithful to the original material, without simply regurgitating it. The characters and plots were already there, so it was a case of reweaving them into our story.’ Whitehouse stars as Grandad alongside Tom Bennett as market trader Del Boy, with Ryan Hutton as his brother Rodney. It features 20 original songs by cockney duo Chas & Dave.
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All About Eve
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PLAYS
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A NEW PLAY BY
SIMON STEPHENS
BASED ON THE BEST-SELLING NOVEL BY
MARK HADDON
DIRECTED BY
MARIANNE ELLIOTT
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ENTERTAINMENT Royal Festival Hall 16 Mar: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. 7.30pm.
Tickets £16.50-£56. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD
www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The O2
DANCE
This church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm. www.sjp.org.uk. 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Huge venue for live music. 8-10 Mar: C2C Festival (country; p. 8). 11 Mar: Nicki Minaj. 19-20 Mar: George Ezra. 30 Mar: Sheridan Smith. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club
St James’s Piccadilly
Concerts and recitals in this beautiful Palladian church. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
London’s most famous jazz venue. 4 Mar: Sarah Tandy. 8-9 Mar: Cymande. 13-16 Mar: Kenny Garrett Quintet. Please check for times and prices.
Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. From 26 Mar: Romeo and Juliet. Kenneth MacMillan’s 20th-century ballet masterpiece. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sadler’s Wells 26-30 Mar: Northern Ballet – Victoria. Choreographed by Cathy Marston, this production reveals the life of Queen Victoria. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
OPERA London Coliseum
★★★★★ D A I LY T E L E G R A P H , M E T R O , T H E S U N , D A I LY E X P R E S S , D A I LY M A I L
‘AN INSPIRATIONAL STORY... A WHIRLWIND OF ELATION’ P A U L TAY L O R , I N D E P E N D E N T
THERE IS ONLY ONE
Home to the English National Opera. From 30 Mar: Jack the Ripper: The Women of Whitechapel. World premiere about the serial killer. Check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. From 21 Mar: La Forza del Destino. Christof Loy directs a cast of singers in Verdi’s epic opera, conducted by Antonio Pappano. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
REIGN OF TERROR Jack the Ripper – the notorious, anonymous murderer who roamed the streets of east London in the 1880s – is the unusual topic for a new opera. Iain Bell’s world premiere, Jack the Ripper: The Women of Whitechapel at the London Coliseum (from 30 Mar), follows the working-class women who were desperate to survive the Victorian serial killer. Bell says: ‘These women are just names, whose identity is defined by their deaths. I wanted to explore their humanity.’
THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL P R E S EN T ED I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
TINA TURNER
TinaTheMusical.com
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CHILDREN & FAMILIES Carbon Copy Kid 2 Mar: Éthienne cannot describe his family’s origins rationally. His family is larger than life; how did he end up being the only rational one? Above all, he is fed up with his vacuous, half-bovine father and seeks some explanation for such cruel punishment. Suitable for over-12s. Please check for times. Adult £13; child £11. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE
The Flying Bath From 1 Mar: When everyone has left the house in the morning, the bath toys spring into action and head off on adventures in their magical flying bath! From giving a muddy piglet a shower to putting out a fire for a frightened baboon, they have water at the ready for any emergency – as long as they’re home for the children’s bath time at the end of the day. Expect catchy songs, quirky bath toys and everyday heroes. Aimed at children aged two to five. Adult £13.50; child £11.50. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
Hotel To 9 Mar: Celebrating its 25th anniversary, the Canadian contemporary circus Cirque Éloize opens the doors to its new show. Guided in the experience, you will sneak behind the doors of a grand Art Deco hotel and meet tourists and travellers – the famous and infamous – in the 1920s, 1970s and 2040. The show features 12 acrobats and musicians, plus an original score. Please check for times. Tickets from £15. www.peacocktheatre.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. Off map. Station: Angel.
The Polar Bears Go, Go Go! From 26 Mar: Join two loveable but slightly hapless polar bears on their holiday adventures. Will they ever reach their destination, or are they just going around in circles? Check for times and prices. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 0207645 0560. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Yamato 12-31 Mar: A brilliant Japanese taiko drumming
JACK THE RIPPER © MATT DAVIS/ENGLISH NATIONAL OPERA
troupe returns to London with their enormous odaiko drums. The instruments, which are traditionally used in Shinto rituals, each weigh more than half a tonne and require strength and skill to play. Please check for times. Tickets from £15. www.sadlerswells.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Women of the World Festival 8-9 Mar: Now in its ninth year, this is a global
festival that begins on International Women’s Day. It looks at the empowerment of women and girls in today’s society. Attend a talk with the legendary activist and writer Angela Davis and Canadian author, social activist and filmmaker Naomi Klein, and listen to comedian Jo Brand’s guide to life as a woman plus much more. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment. www.wheretraveler.com 51
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SHOPPING
‘ From broken heels to red wine stains, there are plenty of places to get it fixed’
P
icture the scene: you’re waiting for your suitcase to appear on the airport carousel, but when it does, it’s not how you remember it. Instead, it’s broken – the wheels aren’t working and the strap has snapped. Don’t panic, though, as there are plenty of places that can fix anything from broken bags to red wine stains. At a time when fast fashion is going out of fashion, there’s much more emphasis on investing in things that will last. The ‘make do and mend’ culture, where garments are restored rather than sent to landfill,
is becoming more popular. Harvey Nichols recently opened The Restory, where the motto is to ‘revive, repair and reimagine’. Loved by fashionistas, it is the go-to place for the in-crowd should their favourite pair of Christian Louboutin heels ever snap. Founder Vanessa Jacobs set up the business after she moved to London from New York and noticed the city’s lack of repair shops. Here, items are collected and dropped off from hotels for free, though there is an extra cost for international delivery. Services available include fabric cleaning, colour restoration and leather
reconditioning. Garments can be reimagined, too – think different colours or additional straps – so the thrill of getting back your transformed belongings matches the excitement of buying something brand new (www.harveynichols.com). Other places that carry out repairs include the cobbler in Shoe Heaven in Harrods (p. 53) – a heel tip can be repaired in 15 minutes, while leather conditioning is also available. Loved by locals, KG Shoes near King’s Cross specialises in repairs that most companies prefer not to tackle, while Pride Shoe Repairs in the Royal Opera Arcade can repair shoes on the spot and give them a quick shine to boot (www.cobbler.co.uk; www.stjameslondon.co.uk).
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Shopping Editor
THE RESTORY IMAGES © AARON MARCUS SUTTON
Main image and inset: The Restory
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MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
Canary Wharf This is a first-class shopping destination in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.
Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and souvenir stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
King’s Road This iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for men’s tailoring, especially suits. E7. Station: Green Park.
MAJOR STORES
Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street: visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Look out for the public art on display throughout the store. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade contains specialist shops. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
IN WITH THE OLD Antique clocks, English pottery and vintage posters – Chelsea Antiques Fair (20-24 Mar), a regular visitor to Chelsea Old Town Hall, is where you should go to find a one-of-a-kind item. The fair specialises in Art Deco and Art Nouveau pieces, bringing together 35 exhibitors. Meanwhile, just up the King’s Road at Duke of York Square, BADA (20-26 Mar) has more than 5,000 works for sale, from Chinese porcelain to 17th-century jewellery. www.penman-fairs.co.uk; www.bada.org
Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Alexander McQueen Flagship boutique with a collection of ready-towear clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexander mcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park. Find a classic trench coat by this British label. It has a monogramming service. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 0207806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products. www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.
Christian Louboutin Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of red-soled shoes. www.christianlouboutin.com. 17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ (and branches). T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.
Gucci One of the world’s most desirable brands, with legendary Italian quality. www.gucci.com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE (and branches). T: 0207235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Please check for opening times. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major London hotels.
ICON Outlet New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars, plus personal shoppers. Please check for times. www.iconattheo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Hamleys Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. There are children’s entertainers, too. Check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. ARTS AND CRAFTS TUDRIC PEWTER AND ENAMEL CLOCK FROM MORGAN STRICKLAND DECORATIVE ARTS & ANTIQUES COURTESTY OF CHELSEA ANTIQUES FAIR
FASHION
Burberry
LUXURY ARCADES
Westfield London This mall has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania, a centre where children can play while parents shop. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, as well as a great range of fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and numerous restaurants (p. 52). Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Westfield Stratford City This massive mall has 270 shops, a cinema, casino, bars, restaurants and plenty of outdoor spaces. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
John Lewis & Partners Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris
Liberty
This esteemed British brand offers beautiful couture designs, hand-crafted to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.
Famous for its prints and haberdashery department. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
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Home and away
Links of London Find jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. There is an engraving service, too. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
As the famous saying goes, an Englishman’s home is his castle. If you’re after interior-design inspiration, visit the Ideal Home Show at Olympia (from 22 Mar). Find out how you can create a smart home with technology, discover the latest accessories from candles to lamps, then listen to talks by experts about ways to turn your house into a home. www.idealhomeshow.co.uk
Pandora The range of modern jewellery includes charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
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KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise of all varieties, plus a ‘Pick and Build’ wall and a Big Ben made from the bricks. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including jewellery and cups. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop. co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
John Bell & Croyden The pharmacist to the Queen is more than 200 years old. It offers prescriptions. www.johnbellcroyden. co.uk. Check for times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.
SHOPPING
Japan Centre
Twinings
Seek out this subterranean shop for matcha, fans, ceramics and specialist ingredients from Japan. There is also traditional food and ingredients. Check for opening times. www.japancentre.com. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it has been trading since 1706. It stocks a huge variety of teas, infusions and tea pots. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Daily, please check for times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
London Glassblowing
We Built This City
Pick up a beautiful souvenir at Peter Layton’s popular Bermondsey studio, gallery and shop. You can even book a class to try glassblowing yourself. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge/Bermondsey.
Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Look out for artworks, including illustrations of London icons and maps. Please check for times. www.webuilt-thiscity.com. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK
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DINING AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in-house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, which is more than 40 years old, has rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
JW Steakhouse Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef with various sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Planet Hollywood
The Montagu Kitchen This modern British brasserie is tucked behind Oxford Street. The menu is inspired by the National Trust’s Chartwell House in Kent – Winston Churchill’s former residence. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.the montagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Rex Whistler Restaurant Originally opened in 1927, this arty restaurant features white columns and a grand mural by Rex Whistler, which covers all the walls. It’s known for its wine list, which goes well with roast beef, lemon sole and poached pear for dessert. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Sophie’s Steakhouse The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace. As well as steak, it serves Sunday roasts. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Pancras Brasserie
Hollywood-inspired dining experience with great film memorabilia on the walls. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 0207287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves British dishes all day. It has a Champagne and oyster bar. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.stpancras bysearcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Rainforest Cafe
VIVI
Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting that includes animatronic animals, with a family-friendly menu featuring pasta, salads and chicken. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 0207434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
BRITISH (MODERN) Darwin Brasserie Dine on level 36 of the building known as the Walkie Talkie for spectacular city-wide views. Try dishes such as sea trout. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
Fenchurch Restaurant
Seasonal dishes, afternoon tea and a pre-theatre menu. A great place for people-watching. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant.co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in this elegant Mayfair restaurant, which is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chester fieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 0207491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
Café in the Crypt
This smart dining room on the roof of the building known as the Walkie Talkie has spectacular views. It serves Cornish mackerel, Isle of Mull scallops and Devonshire lamb. £££. Daily L & D. www.sky garden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
Underneath the church in Trafalgar Square you can dine under stone arches. Enjoy homely, goodvalue dishes and traditional hot British desserts. Try the fruit crumble. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
Great Court Restaurant
Cheneston’s
Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
Enjoy British cuisine in a classic dining room, with dishes such as pan-seared venison. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 72-73
‘ Now you can pick from halloumi fries, vegan seitan and charcoal buns’
L
ondon’s food scene has gone through a revolution in the past 10 years. If you visited a market a decade ago, you could have chosen from chips, unidentifiable fried food and burgers served in floppy buns, while now you can take your pick from halloumi fries, vegan seitan or tofu in charcoal buns. From the team behind Market Halls
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MARKET HALL VICTORIA © CHRISTOPHER HORWOOD
Market Hall Victoria
Fulham, the new Market Hall Victoria has transformed an Edwardian shopping arcade in Terminus Place. It has a café, three bars and 11 kitchens, and seating for 400 over three floors. Restaurants include Monty’s Deli; Flank; Squirrel; Kerbisher & Malt; Fanny’s Kebabs; Press Coffee; Koya Ko by Koya; Super Tacos from Breddos and Bunshop from The Marksman, which serves buns stuffed with Welsh rarebit or beef and barley. The venue is also due to open a roof terrace this spring (www.markethalls.co.uk). Boxpark Wembley is also new and the latest addition to the Boxpark family, joining the established Boxpark Shoreditch and Boxpark Croydon. The latest venue has space for 2,500
and has 20 food and drink vendors, so you can try Spanish tapas from TapaVino, Hola Guacamole’s Mexican dishes and Caribbean chicken from Mama Jacq’s, as well as Indian flatbreads by Michelin-starred chef Rohit Ghai at KoolCha (www.boxpark.co.uk). If you’re in Shoreditch, make sure you don’t miss Dinerama, a mostly covered food arena. Sample meat-free Mexican dishes from Club Mexicana, a Caribbean barbecue thanks to Mama’s Jerk and brownie-doughnut ‘bronut’ hybrids from SE Cakery (www.streetfeast.com). While not new, it’s also worth seeking out Pop Brixton, a collection of repurposed containers that are now home to bars, restaurants and shops. Make a beeline
for raclette from Alpes, go for Venezuelan arepas (stuffed, grilled corn bread) or choose crêpes, galettes, waffles and croque-monsieur at L’Amuse Bouche. Finish with Mexican doughnuts from Love Churros (www.popbrixton.org). South London is also home to Mercato Metropolitano, an outdoor square and indoor market in Elephant and Castle where you can take cooking classes and sample homemade pasta, ramen and Turkish mezze (www.mercatometropolitano.co.uk).
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DINING
This restaurant in a smart hotel has ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Palm Court This grand hotel lounge has palm trees and folding mirrored screens. Order afternoon tea. Check for times. ££. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb British cuisine in this plush dining room. A jacket and tie are essential. Book ahead. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 0207300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
CHINESE Chai Wu Located in Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Hakkasan This fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. Tucked away in an alley, its decor takes styling cues from decadent Shanghai. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with delicious dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Mei Ume This plush restaurant serves Chinese and Japanese cuisine, including sushi and Peking duck. Tall ceilings, big windows and a cherry blossom painting make it feel grand. ££££. Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 020-3297 3799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Min Jiang Enjoy magnificent views of Kensington Gardens from the 10th floor of this hotel alongside Sichuan dishes, dim sum and seafood. The wood-fired Beijing Duck is authentic. ££££. Daily L & D. www.min jiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 0207361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
FISH AND SEAFOOD Neptune
1 Lombard Street Brasserie inside a former bank, featuring a glass dome, serving everything from a full English breakfast to slow-cooked lamb shank. £££. MonFri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred cuisine from the Galvin brothers. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Hilton Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Ivy
Try the exceptional seafood platter and oysters in this Grade II-listed hotel restaurant. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 0203797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
A favourite with celebrities, this restaurant serves British and Asian dishes. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ (and branches). T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Brasserie Joël
Ting
Brasserie Zédel
Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Good-value set menu in this bustling brasserie. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
CURRY KINGS
REVIEW
The Curry Room at The Rubens at the Palace hotel is set in an opulent room, with plush red leather seats and old books on its shelves. Created by chef Arun Kumar, it feels like it’s fit for royalty – which it is, as all of the meat is supplied by Aubrey Allen, a Royal Warrant Holder. If you can’t decide on what to eat, try the thali: start with poppadams, then choose three small main courses, which you eat with rice and bread. The lamb curry and butter chicken were our favourites, while the kulfi ice cream cooled us down. It can be tricky to pair wine with Indian flavours, but here they more than succeed. 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. www.rubenshotel.com
Try the tuna tartare or beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine such as sea bass with a seaweed crust, served in a smart dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here has exotic twists, such as smoked-chilli lamb chops. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Baluchi at the Lalit London Tall, arched ceilings and enormous windows make this five-star hotel restaurant grand. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thebaluchi.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Benares Dine on modern Indian cuisine, such as softshell crab and venison. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka bar. The seasonal menu might feature Hyderabadi lamb shank or Goan chicken curry. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord This iconic, upscale Indian restaurant serves traditional North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
IMAGE COURTESY OF THE CURRY ROOM
The English Grill
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24
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BRASSERIE OF LIGHT When you enter Brasserie of Light, the new restaurant inside Selfridges, you’ll be struck by Damien Hirst’s largest work in London. The afternoon tea includes Asian vegetable rice paper rolls, chocolate bubble shots and passionfruit meringue. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-3940 9600. www.brasserie-of-light.co.uk
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Cold comforts
Enjoy the last days of winter at White Haus in Farringdon. This new three-storey restaurant-bar is decorated with timber like a Swiss chalet – you can even sit in a vintage cable car. Cuckoo clocks, mittens and skiing photos complete the picture, while sheepskin throws keep you cosy. Go for breakfast and fill up on the ‘haus’ breakfast, which is served with Bavarian sausages and potato röstis. Tuck into sauerkraut, fondue, schnitzel, Swiss beer-battered fish and chips and apple strudel. In the evening, share boards of baked Mont d’Or cheese and pickles and, in true après-ski style, hot toddies. DJs play on Fridays. 17 Farringdon St, EC4A 4AB. T: 020-3951 0771. www.the whitehaus.co.uk
Masala Zone Enjoy street food, thalis and regional curries in vibrant surroundings. ££. Daily L & D. www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Tamarind
THE PALACE LOUNGE Dine under chandeliers and listen to a pianist while eating traditional delights, including coronation chicken and toasted almond sandwiches, and gin and tonic cheesecake. A Prince and Princess tea for under-12s comes with Nutella sandwiches and Jammie Dodger biscuits. 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. www.rubenshotel.com
Try authentic Indian food. This specialises in Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarind restaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant has an opulent interior and Michelin-starred dishes such as lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 0207734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy 28-day-aged beef and fried hake at this relaxed restaurant and bar. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Cavendish
THE DORCHESTER China Tang has a new Cantonese afternoon tea: Tea @ Tangs (Mon-Fri). Chef Chong Choi Fong serves dim sum in bamboo baskets, tarts, osmanthus jelly and chocolate dumplings. 53 Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 9988. www.chinatanglondon.co.uk
Upstairs feels more formal, while downstairs is relaxed with brick walls, mirrors and pavement seating. The European menu includes smoked burrata, black pudding Scotch egg and truffle oil flatbreads. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
The Terrace This hotel restaurant above Charing Cross Station dates back 150 years. Dine on salads, burgers, pasta and small plates in an opulent setting. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
ITALIAN Ask Italian This pizza and pasta joint opposite Paddington Station is a friendly spot. You can eat in its sunny conservatory. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian. co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.
Cicchetti All-day dining venue serving Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.san carlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on delicious stone-baked pizzas and salad or sit down to afternoon tea before a concert in this iconic Victorian music venue. Check for Free Friday Music. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table in a theatrical experience: they flip ingredients, catch some in their hats, shout and tap utensils. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant specialises in Kobe beef and sushi. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ginza Onodera This sleek, subterranean Mayfair restaurant serves sushi and sashimi. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.
THE WHITE HAUS © ANA CAEIRO; AFTERNOON TEA IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES
TEA
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Time for
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DINING Ichiba This casual spot in a mall is ideal for a quick bowl of ramen, rice or noodles. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. www.ichibalondon.com. Level 2, Westfield London Shepherd’s Bush, W12 7HB. T: 020-3405 9410. Map inset. Station: White City.
Sakagura
ENJOY THE THALI AT
REAL INDIAN FOOD
The menu at this izakaya-style Japanese ’pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakagura london.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tokimeite With just 20 seats, you’re guaranteed attentive service here. Sit at the counter and watch the chef prepare sushi, fried lotus root stuffed with prawns, while you peruse the extensive saké, shochu and whisky menu. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.tokimeite.com. 23 Conduit St, W1S 2XS. T: 020-3826 4411. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See the sights on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.
The London Showboat Enjoy a two-course lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
RS Hispaniola This delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serves British cuisine, with dishes including Liverpool Gin-cured salmon and Gloucester ham hock terrine. It has great set, pre-theatre and afternoon tea menus. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment, Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in this huge Debenhams department store and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen. Enjoy dim sum and sushi rolls. There’s also a Champagne bar. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
The House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving Vietnamese sharing dishes such as jasmine-smoked baby back ribs, and silken tofu with chilli and garlic. ££. Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Mango Tree This fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes such as tom ka and grilled beef in a spicy sauce. The set menu is a good way to try a variety of dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Thai Pot This much-loved restaurant has been established for 20 years. Try the stir-fried beef and Massaman curry, or a set meal from £13.50. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 0207379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
An exquisite bar and restaurant in the heart of Soho serving a delicious and varied menu showcasing locally sourced vegetables and fish – along with Sophie’s famous British beef. 42-44 Great Windmill Street, W1B 7NB sophiessteakhouse.com/soho soho@sophiessteakhouse.com 020 7836 8836
BOOK NOW THROUGH YOUR CONCIERGE
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REVIEW
Pretty as a picture
The Royal Academy of Arts has refurbished its Senate Room, which is headed up by Stephen Beadle, a former chef at The River Café. By day, the Italian café serves cheese, charcuterie and olives, salad and small plates – try the burrata with artichoke Romana followed by tiramisu. Melissa Forti, author of The Italian Baker, has created an afternoon tea that includes panettone, ricotta and honey cheesecake and the coffee and custard dessert, espresso zabaione. The bar serves Prosecco, cocktails and blood orange, pomegranate and white peach Bellinis. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1S 3ET. T: 020-7300 5912. www.royalacademy.org.uk
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SPANISH El Pirata
This lively Mayfair restaurant has been serving hot and cold tapas for nearly 25 years. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Moro
Mildreds
Enjoy dishes such as wood-roasted chicken, charcoal-grilled brill and yoghurt cake with pistachios. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro. co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 0207833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
This Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes such as wild mushroom and ale pie and Vietnamese mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
VEGETARIAN
Ibérica
The Gate
No dilemmas here: start with charcuterie, move on to paella or tapas, then end with churros. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.
Veggie restaurant with Indian and Middle-Eastern influences, serving dishes such as tofu tikka. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
RUBENSHOTEL.COM
SENATE ROOM COURTESY OF SENATE ROOM
Exceptional dining, elegant décor, unique experiences, imaginative cocktails, live music and generous hospitality.
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O NE O F T H E M OS T E XC I T I N G N E W RE S TAU R A N T O P E N I N G S I N 2 0 1 9 ! A B E AU T I F U L B R I T I S H R E S TAU R A N T I N T H E H E A RT O F LO N D O N E N J OY A CO M P L I M E N TA RY CO C K TA I L W H E N YO U S H OW T H I S A DV E RT O N A R R I VA L FI N D US : 1 1 ST GI LE S SQUARE , LO N DO N WC2 H 8AP WW W.VI V I RE STAURAN T.CO.UK @VI V I RE STAURAN T
BY T&C : Offer valid until April 30th, 2019. Limited to one cocktail per guest based on a maximum of 6 guests dining. WHE R E
LOND ON
PR OM OTION
BEST OF LONDON DINING The Chelsea Harbour Hotel The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea is in partnership with Whittard of Chelsea. Go on a journey through the history of afternoon tea, from its advent in 1840 by the Duchess of Bedford through to the present day. The tea comes with sandwiches and desserts from throughout history. The menu includes finger sandwiches filled with classic and contemporary delights such as coronation chicken, a sandwich created in 1953 specifically for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. The luxurious five-star hotel boasts panoramic views over Chelsea Harbour Marina and the River Thames. The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea costs £28 per person, or £38 with a glass of Champagne.
El Pirata
Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000. www.millenniumhotels.com
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic: the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans such as Brian May and Johnny Depp, as well as food critics, are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
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NIGHTLIFE The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This charming 17th-century pub is a real step back in time. It boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music and mobile phones are discouraged. www.frenchhouse soho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The George Inn This tucked-away, historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Waxy O’Connor’s
City Garden Bar
Popular Irish bar, with four bars split over six levels. It has regular live music, pub food and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This impressive bar, on the roof terrace of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building, has amazing views, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
Waxy’s Little Sister
This outstanding bar is renowned for its superior Martinis. Oozing old-world charm, its lounge area is a luxurious space. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 0207491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.
Smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s, serving traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus a range of great bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with cocktail and wine bars. There are wines from unusual destinations including Uruguay, with bottles from just £20. There’s also a nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Back Room Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this fun bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus the great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar and elegant decor. Excellent bar snacks. www.bookingoffice bar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in this relaxed, Cuban-style bar that specialises in many types of cocktails using the Caribbean drink and unusual ingredients. www.burlock london.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Fitz’s This bar is about as classic as it gets – think velvet shell-shaped sofas and wooden panelling decked with paintings, with a cheeky mirror ball. Great for a date. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Freedom This long-standing gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub below. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
GONG Bar Located on level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. Reservations recommended. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit, stonearched basement. Get there early to grab a table and enjoy the original Dickensian-style decor. There is also a vegan wine list. www.gordonswine bar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
BYOC
The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.
At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ simply pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create the cocktails. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
The Magpie & Stump
Cartizze Bar
Opposite the Old Bailey, this pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. It features old fireplaces, worn rugs and brick walls. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.
Timeless luxury Bellini and cocktail destination with a stunning Art Deco interior and oysters on the menu. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Guinea
Dukes Bar
DID YOU KNOW? GONG Bar, located on level 52 of The Shard, is the highest hotel bar in Western Europe
L’escale Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the River Thames. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this exclusive cocktail bar, which is home to exquisite wines and fresh fruit cocktails. www.mews ofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73
GONG BAR COURTESY OF SHANGRI-LA HOTEL; MASKELYNE & COOK © JONATHAN STEWART
TRADITIONAL PUBS
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‘ See Tony Middleton perform illusions and mind-reading in his show Sleight of Hand’
H
ow does a magician slice open an orange to reveal a walnut, which, when cracked open by a person in the audience, reveals a wedding ring that disappeared moments before? That’s what I was left wondering after watching Tony Middleton perform in The Magic Hour at the Sheraton Grand London Park Lane. The show takes place in a dimly-lit drawing room with an antique fireplace, wood-panelled walls and an elaborate plasterwork ceiling. A finalist in The Magic Circle Stage Magician of the Year 2018 awards, Middleton relies on his charm and talent rather than music and lights to impress. There’s no need for a microphone, which
creates an intimate atmosphere. It makes for a calm, relaxing night out – and I found the 100-minute show flew by as I was concentrating so much on the tricks. But I still couldn’t work them out. My favourite trick was when an audience member chose the four of diamonds from a pack of cards, which Middleton guessed incorrectly as the five of diamonds, which he’d drawn in red pen on a sheet of paper. Close enough, we thought, giving him a round of applause – especially when the fifth diamond hovered before our eyes on to another diamond, transforming his card. If this show is fully booked, you can watch Middleton demonstrate mind-reading and illusions in Sleight of Hand at Simpson’s
in the Strand, which is part of the Savoy hotel. Middleton is joined by Dominick Zwolinski in the 75-minute show. Alternatively, visit Le Méridien Piccadilly’s new bar, Maskelyne & Cooke, which is named after a magic duo who performed in Victorian Mayfair. The bar is decorated with playing cards and a cauldron of dry ice. You can take a magic class or stop for a drink while magicians such as Middleton and Zwolinski perform at your table. On my visit, I saw Zwolinski burn a single thread of cotton into 10 pieces, roll them up into a ball and unravel it into a single thread. You’ll leave asking ‘how did he do that?’ www.magichourshow.com; www.maskelyneandcooke.co.uk
SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor
Maskelyne & Cooke
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NIGHTLIFE
‘‘
Green oasis
REVIEW
Charing Cross Road is one of the city’s most chaotic locations, with its jumble of theatregoers and black cabs. The area now has a calm perch above the bustle, however: B&H Garden Room, a bar and restaurant inside the new Assembly London hotel. B&H Garden Room, with its white walls, floor-to-ceiling windows and plants, beams in contrast. We enjoyed our drinks here, including the short-but-mighty Gold Fashioned, a mix of smoky Scotch, rye whisky and bitters, with truffle muscovado syrup. Settle in and enjoy the view of Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square, Big Ben and the Coca-Cola London Eye. 31 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0LS. T: 020-3962 7275. www.bandh gardenroom.com. E7. Station: Charing Cross/Leicester Square
‘‘
The Vault
Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar, with live music most nights. Check website for programme. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
The tiny, specialist whisky shop and bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcase, is a hidden bar. www.thevaultsoho. co.uk. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar, serving eccentric cocktails and upscale bar bites including dim sum. Reservations recommended. www.opium chinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 0207734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Scarfes Bar This elegant hotel bar is named after satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures lining the walls. Wonderful cocktails. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar is on the Paris Eurostar concourse. Enjoy bubbly and seafood platters, with heated leather banquettes. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro’s groundbreaking cocktails, in a lounge with eccentric decor incorporating leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. The bar is part of a hotel of the same name. www.thezettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular West End venue also has a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
DID YOU KNOW?
Julie Andrews made her solo debut at the Hippodrome Casino in 1947
Social 24 Smart bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant with an Art Deco interior, Prohibitioninspired cocktails and fantastic views. There’s a great food menu, too. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Hippodrome Casino Massive casino with gaming on three floors, plus a restaurant and live music venue. www.hippodrome casino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy the poker lounge, sports bar, informal dining and elegant restaurant. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with live entertainment for a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bunga bunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. The Comedy Store Players sees the likes of Paul Merton, Neil Mullarkey and Josie Lawrence, while it also hosts regular late-night stand-up events. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy music together. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square.
Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow, and is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Up to 70 Angels dance nightly on four stages. You can also dine in the five-star steak restaurant and visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
B&H GARDEN ROOM COURTESY OF ASSEMBLY LONDON
Nightjar
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07/02/2019 16:58
All images: Glow Bar
SOME LIKE IT HOT Bethan Kapur discovers the health benefits of saunas and steam rooms A sauna in central London may conjure up images of sweaty businessmen doing deals in white dressing gowns, but the recently opened Glow Bar is a far cry from this. With millennial pink decor, hanging plants and a café that serves fresh fruit and matcha tea, it’s a welcoming space. Sitting in a sauna is a great way to relax alone, though at Glow Bar there are rooms for couples – mothers and daughters, for example. ‘Conversation can help to get you through the heat,’ says a member of staff. Visitors are escorted through a dimly-lit corridor with candles lining the way to a private room. You forget that the busy traffic outside is just walls away. For 45 minutes
you have full privacy, which means that if it feels too hot, you can open the door without anyone seeing you naked. I took it as a challenge to avoid opening the sauna door, even though the temperature is fierce. After 10 minutes, with sweat lining every square millimetre of my skin, I was finally forced to surrender. While traditional saunas heat the air and, in turn, your body, the infrared sauna uses infrared wavelengths to raise your core temperature. Your heart circulation increases, which encourages the production of collagen – strengthening your nails and hair and making your skin glow. Once my stint in the sleepy, warm cocoon was over, flushed of toxins and with improved circulation, I was ready for the real world. I stepped out and marvelled at my pink face. Showers and products are provided, so I layered them on to my reborn complexion.
Then I rehydrated in the café: sip an iced smoothie (nutrient-rich options include ones made with ginger, cacao and marine collagen) or grab breakfast, from hazelnut porridge to avocado on toast (www.glowbarldn.com). Other sensational saunas include K West Spa in Shepherd’s Bush – for a new take on pampering, switch between its Snow Paradise (an ice room) and steam room (www.k-west. co.uk). Banya No 1 in Old Street, meanwhile, has a traditional Russian steam sauna, plunge pool and invigorating treatments, some using birch, oak or eucalyptus twigs. If you can’t stand the heat, pour one of the wall-mounted buckets of cold water onto your head – if you’re brave enough (www.gobanya.co.uk).
BETHAN KAPUR Contributor
GLOW BAR IMAGES © LIA VITTONE PHOTOGRAPHY
WELLNESS
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WELLNESS
SPAS
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel
This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold AgeDefying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two. Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
Bamford Haybarn Spa
The Spa at Dolphin Square
Aveda Institute
First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch. Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage in your hotel room, apartment or the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07906-029577.
Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, the spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Signature treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Mandarin Oriental Fresh from a refurbishment, this luxury spa is inspired by Chinese treatments. The menu offers scrubs, massages and facials. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Refinery Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a shaving lesson. Also at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for bridal and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven. The menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
07879 697478
Ushvani This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese Massage, which incorporates natural herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Late appointments available
SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
Hershesons At this trendy hairdressers, you can choose your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches). T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Body Relaxation Alina from Norway offers a high quality luxury deep tissue massage directly in your hotel room or apartment or at our Sloane street studio. Open late.
Please call: 07906 029577
Jo Hansford This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73
INSPIRING LONDON’S VISITORS
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ESSENTIALS Willesden Green
Stonebridge Park Brondesbury Park
Willesden Junction
Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park
Paddington
Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road
North Acton
Shepherd’s Bush
White City
Shepherd’s Bush Market
Hammersmith
Stamford Brook
Ravenscourt Park
West Kensington
Tottenham Court Road
High Street Kensington
Green Park
Gloucester Road
Earl’s Court
Euston Square
Victoria
Hoxton Old Street
Bank
Charing Cross
Monument
Tower Gateway
London Bridge
Embankment
Canada Water
Bermondsey
Southwark
Imperial Wharf
Parsons Green
River Thames
Bakerloo
Vauxhall
East Putney
Canning Town
District
Hammersmith & City
Elephant & Castle
Jubilee
Royal Victoria Custom House for ExCeL
Blackwall East India West India Quay
Emirates Royal Docks
Heron Quays
North Greenwich
Metropolitan
Prince Regent Royal Albert
West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula
Pontoon Dock
New Cross Gate
Northern
Victoria
Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton
King George V 17/E/3249/P
Greenwich New Cross
Brockley
Piccadilly
Beckton Park
London City Airport
Mudchute
Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich
Queens Road Peckham
Circle
Star Lane
Langdon Park
Island Gardens
Borough
Southfields
Central
East Ham Upton Park
Canary Wharf
Lambeth North
Putney Bridge
Upney Barking
Crossharbour Surrey Quays
Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway
Stratford
West Ham
Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road
South Quay Waterloo Pimlico
Fulham Broadway
Step-free access from street to platform
Wapping
River Thames
Rotherhithe
Woodgrange Park
Forest Gate Maryland
Abbey Road
Westferry Poplar
Limehouse
Tower Hill
Fenchurch Street
Blackfriars
Pudding Mill Lane
All Saints Shadwell
West Brompton
Step-free access from street to train
Stepney Green
Whitechapel
Aldgate
Cannon Street
Temple
Westminster
Aldgate East
Hornchurch
Plaistow Bow Church
St. Paul’s
Ilford Manor Park
Becontree
Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End
Moorgate Liverpool Street
Upminster Bridge
Seven Kings
Wanstead Park
Stratford High Street
Cambridge Heath
Shoreditch High Street
Barbican Chancery Lane
Covent Garden
St. James’s Park
Sloane Square
South Kensington
Holborn
Homerton London Fields
Haggerston
Farringdon
Leicester Mansion Square House
Piccadilly Circus
Knightsbridge
Barons Court
Goodge Street
Marble Arch
Dalston Junction
King’s Cross St. Pancras
Russell Square
Bayswater
Queensway
Caledonian Road & Barnsbury
Angel
Regent’s Park
Oxford Circus
Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick
Highbury & Islington
Euston
Warren Street
Edgware Road
Hyde Park Corner
Kensington (Olympia)
Goldhawk Road
Mornington Crescent
Great Baker Portland Street Street
Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate
Holland Park
Wood Lane
Camden Road
Chalk Farm Camden Town
Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood
Edgware Road Marylebone
Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road
Kentish Town West Belsize Park
West Hampstead
Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead
East Acton
Finchley Road & Frognal
Kilburn
Harlesden
Deptford Bridge Elverson Road
Waterloo & City
DLR
Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays
Emirates Air Line cable car
Overground
TfL Rail
*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.
Transport for London
Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P
Version D 7.2017
TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (above). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night
Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel
Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card. You can make unlimited bus and tram journeys for free within one hour of first touching in.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.
Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.
Correct at time of going to print
Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and south east England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).
Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/access and www.openbritain.net.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Congestion Charge There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.
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Ask the
Cutty Sark
CONCIERGE Daniel Griffiths
is head concierge at Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square What’s your most popular request? Afternoon tea
Dennis Severs’ House
pool. In the evening, enjoy dinner for two at our Michelin-starred French restaurant, La Dame de Pic London.
Access to the Tower of London is by far our most popular request – I like telling guests that one of the tower’s 22 surviving boundary markers is in our hotel lobby.
Any hidden gems?
What makes your hotel special?
Tower of London
The hotel is set in a Grade II-listed building that was originally home to the Port of London Authority, so it played an important part in global trade between the east and west when it was built in the 1920s. It’s a grand building with enormous columns at the front and a tower on top with a statue of Old Father Thames. We also overlook the Tower of London and Tower Bridge.
Dennis Severs’ House in Spitalfields, as well as The Hoop & Grapes pub in Aldgate, which is one of the few timber buildings that survived the Great Fire of London in 1666.
What should visitors see outside of central London? Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire is a perfect place in which to escape the city. It’s set in an old manor house on a 300-acre estate, with country activities such as clay pigeon shooting, long walks and horse riding.
Any family-friendly ideas? Take a boat trip along the River Thames to Greenwich, where you can visit the Royal Observatory, Cutty Sark and Greenwich Market.
Any romantic ideas?
DANIEL GRIFFITHS COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS LONDON HOTEL AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE; CUTTY SARK © VISIT GREENWICH; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS; DENNIS SEVERS’ HOUSE © ROELOF BAKKER; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK
You can’t beat a couple’s massage in our spa, followed by time in the swimming
Car hire
On foot
Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ (p. 70). Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.
It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.80. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am). Adult £19.80, child £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, via the app or online.
Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Which quintessential English experience should visitors not miss? It has to be afternoon tea! We recently launched a Heritage tea which is served on china designed exclusively for us by Richard Brendon. On the bottom of each plate is a map depicting the tea trade route along the River Thames.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours and the first 30 mins of travel are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub that offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. D4.
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers. There is also a digital printing and copy service. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines
The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71
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PERFECT DAY Yasmine Naghdi DANCER Yasmine is the principal dancer at the Royal Ballet and lives in Chelsea. Nominated for a Critics’ Circle National Dance Award, she will perform in Russian Ballet Icons at the London Coliseum
Selfridges
What’s your favourite building? London is one of the best places to see modern architecture. My favourite building is the Royal Opera House. It’s had a recent refurbishment called the Open Up Project – it’s more accessible now. It has a beautiful glass entrance and there’s a lovely restaurant with a view over Covent Garden Piazza, as well as the London skyline. It’s the perfect place to relax in before watching a ballet.
Yasmine Naghdi
What museums do you like? The Victoria and Albert Museum – I’d like to see Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams.
What about green spaces? Holland Park’s Kyoto Garden is a beautiful and tranquil Japanese-inspired garden. Do you have a favourite café? I love the Wulf & Lamb on Pavilion Road and Colbert on Sloane Square – I adore the Parisian atmosphere. Where do you like drinking? I’m a member of Soho House, but my favourite is White City House in west London. They open the rooftop pool in summer.
Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams
Where do you like eating? Le Relais de Venise in Marylebone – it’s a steak and chips place with a secret sauce that is just divine. What’s your ideal night out? I love jazz bars such as Oriole in Farringdon. I would definitely go for a meal at Roka, a Japanese restaurant in Mayfair, or Zuma in Knightsbridge. Tell us about Russian Ballet Icons at the London Coliseum. This performance is a huge highlight for any ballet fan. I am so honoured to be performing alongside Russian ballet stars and international dancers. It will be a truly inspiring and energetic evening. I’m going to be performing Don Quixote with Marcelino Sambé.
Is there a place that holds a special memory? In Covent Garden there’s a bronze statue of a ballerina. I had my photo taken there when I was a girl – little did I know I’d become a dancer in the Royal Opera House! 74 W H E R E LO N D O N I M A R C H 2019
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Kyoto Garden
Do you have anything else coming up? I’m doing a performance of Romeo and Juliet (11 Jun) at the Royal Opera House; it will be filmed and screened live in cinemas around the world. Which hotels do you like? Blakes in South Kensington, which was designed by Anouska Hempel. It has a nice mix of Asian and Moroccan styles. What makes London stand out? London is such a unique city with a rich and diverse culture. It’s a massive international city where anyone from any background can feel at home. There are lots of young people coming from around the world. Whether it’s theatre, cinema, the party lifestyle – London is constantly reinventing itself. It really is a city that doesn’t sleep. Russian Ballet Icons, 31 Mar. London Coliseum. St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. www.londoncoliseum.org
YASMINE NAGHDI AS GAMZATTI © ROH, 2018; SELFRIDGES AND KYOTO GARDEN © ISTOCK; BALLERINA COURTESY OF WIKICOMMONS; CHRISTIAN DIOR WITH MODEL SYLVIE, COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN DIOR
Where do you like shopping? I love shopping on the King’s Road. I went to Selfridges on Oxford Street and fell in love with some Balmain boots – they’re my most expensive purchase to date.
Ballerina statue in Covent Garden
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T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R .C O. U K
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TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Designed by MinaLima.
Enter the Wizarding Bank and see how filmmakers brought the magic to life.
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