Where Magazine London Nov 2017 by Morris Media Network

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

November

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.

ON THE COVER

An interview with the British actor. Hugh Bonneville © Stuart McClymont

The Guide

22 SIGHTSEEING Remember, remember the fifth of November! Have a blast at one of the city’s spectacular firework displays.

SOLDIERS © ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL; ANGELS OF THE NORTH © ALICE HAWKINS; FIREWORKS COURTESY OF WWW.ENABLELC.ORG; GILBERT & GEORGE © GILBERT & GEORGE

36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES We explore Tate Britain’s exhibition on Impressionist artists, plus Gilbert & George at White Cube. 44 ENTERTAINMENT Glitter, heels and wigs – and that’s just for the men in the shows Everybody’s Talking About Jamie and How to Win Against History. 54 SHOPPING Visit Dazzle, Europe’s biggest contemporary jewellery festival, at the OXO Tower, which has everything from 3D-printed rings to laser-cut necklaces.

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal battle it out at the ATP Tennis Finals; the country falls silent for war heroes on Remembrance Day; and you can sit in the driving seat at the Regent Street Motor Show.

10 GIVE THANKS IN LONDON As Thanksgiving is celebrated across the city, use our guide to enjoy an all-American day out, from the art of Jasper Johns to the home of one of the US’s Founding Fathers, Benjamin Franklin.

PLAN

2017-2018

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LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

14 NORTHERN STARS Paul Smith, Karen Elson and Peter Saville – we take a look at how people from the North of England have influenced the world.

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Count down the days to Christmas with a unique advent calendar.

82 MY LONDON Hugh Bonneville, star of Paddington 2, tells us about his favourite spots in the capital.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter’s app. Go to the app store. Or read a digital copy – visit http://en.calameo.com FRENCH MAP COVER 2017.indd 1

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In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

62 DINING Meet the female chefs who are cooking up a storm – including one with a coveted four Michelin stars. 72 NIGHTLIFE Enjoy a pastime that’s beloved by Brits: supping a pint in a cosy old-fashioned pub, from The George Inn to The Old Bank of England. 76 WELLBEING From beard trimming to ear flaming, we take a look at male grooming treatments. 78 ESSENTIALS Concierges from across the city share their tips on how to make the most of your trip. 80 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 3

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EDITORIAL

GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Jo Caird, Jay Foreman,

Emma Levine, Alex Wellington GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton GRAPHIC DESIGNER Margaux Carpier PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stewart Dymock CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson

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Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV WHERE LONDON 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, London, SW1Y 4SQ Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@ morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901. The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation.

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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 11 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

Lights, camera, London! One of the best perks of my job is meeting people, from the architects who build the city to the celebrities on our stages. For this issue, I got the chance to interview Downton Abbey’s Hugh Bonneville. As Paddington 2, in which he stars, comes out in cinemas, I grilled him on what it’s really like filming on the streets of London (p. 82). As Thanksgiving takes place, we explore the ‘special relationship’ – not just between America and the UK, but specifically London. Find out how you can attend a Thanksgiving service in St Paul’s Cathedral, discover Founding Father Benjamin Franklin’s home and see the artist Jasper Johns’ iconic image of the Stars and Stripes (p. 10). In most countries, fireworks are set off during a celebration. Here, however, they are set off on the day that Guy Fawkes plotted to blow up the Houses of Parliament. Find out more about this unusual tradition, and where you can watch dazzling displays (p. 22). One of my favourite Christmas customs is opening an advent calendar, but they often get snapped up as soon as December begins. We round-up the quirkiest ones, including calendars filled with candles, LEGO and beauty goodies (p. 18). Enjoy your trip!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

A T

T H E

I N T E R C O N T I N E N T A L WEEKEND BRUNCH

Theo Randall at the InterContinental has launched a new ‘La Dolce Vita’ weekend brunch menu. Featuring a selection of brunch classics with an authentic Italian twist complemented by bottomless prosecco and bellinis. To start, indulge in a variety of antipasti dishes from a selection of Italian salads, cured meats and cheeses. Primi and secondi dishes include Theo’s well-loved classics such as handmade pasta stuffed with slow cooked veal and pancetta with porcini mushrooms and parmesan. To finish, a selection of desserts will be served to share, including his signature Amalfi lemon tart. Saturday Brunch | £57 per person Three courses and bottomless prosecco & bellinis Sunday Brunch | £45 per person Four courses. Supplementary drinks packages available For reservations, call 020 7318 8747 or visit www.theorandall.com

Above: Kohinoor Sahota and Hugh Bonneville Want to be in the magazine? Share your trip with us on social media

Theo Randall at the InterContinental One Hamilton Place, Park Lane London, W1J 7QY

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

There is lots to do this November! The Lord Mayor’s Show marches into town, Taste of London feeds the city and tennis greats battle it out at The O2

THE LORD MAYOR’S SHOW SATURDAY 11 NOVEMBER

It’s not every day that a 360-year-old gilded carriage parades through London, so don’t miss your chance to see it at The Lord Mayor’s Show. The event begins with a river pageant from Westminster at 8.30am, and Tower Bridge opens in salute at 9.25am. The Lord Mayor’s procession leaves from Mansion House at 11am, and the day ends with fireworks at 5.15pm, between Blackfriars and Waterloo Bridges. www.lordmayorsshow.london

TASTE OF LONDON THURSDAY 16–SUNDAY 19 NOVEMBER

Taste of London – the twice-yearly event that showcases some of the capital’s best restaurants, chefs and food trends – is bound to make your mouth water. This festive edition (the ‘little sister’ to the flagship summer event in Regent’s Park) kicks off the Christmas season, and sees Tobacco Dock transformed into an edible wonderland. This year, you can enjoy live demonstrations by top chefs from Barrafina, Bao, Chai Wu and Bubbledogs, a hands-on baking session and, new for this year, the World Cheese Awards – 3,000 cheeses from 30 countries vie for the coveted top spot. www.london.tastefestivals.com

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Christmas lights thursday 9 november & thursday 16 November

Get in the festive spirit early on Carnaby Street, where the Christmas lights will be switched on at a festive party complete with drinks, DJs and discounts at more than 100 restaurants and shops (9 Nov). Register online to nab a free ticket. Meanwhile, the Christmas shopping season starts at Seven Dials (16 Nov) with a light switch-on event featuring live music, plus one-off dishes and drinks at bars and restaurants. Free tickets that get you up to 20 per cent off brands in the area are available online. www.carnaby. co.uk; www.sevendials.co.uk

Regent Street Motor Show

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Petrol heads wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to miss the Regent Street Motor Show, a display of veteran, vintage, classic and modernday cars. Stunt bike displays and car-themed live music make it a free and fun family day out. www.regentstreet motorshow.com

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NITTO ATP TENNIS FINALS SUNDAY 12–SUNDAY 19 NOVEMBER

We’re accustomed to seeing the world’s greatest tennis players taking part in the Wimbledon Championships every summer, but many of these elite stars are also competing in the Nitto ATP Tennis Finals held this month at The O2 – it’s the world’s biggest indoor tennis tournament. The ATP’s best eight singles players and doubles teams play in front of more than 250,000 fans over eight days. So who can we expect to see? Already confirmed is the six-time champion Roger Federer (above), the tournament’s most successful player who made a record 14 straight appearances between 2002 and 2015. At the age of 36, it seems unlikely he’ll hang up his tennis racquets for a while – and why should he? Joining him in the elite eight-man field is Spain’s Rafael Nadal, who has made a startling recovery to the top of the world rankings after a tumultuous few years of injury. www.theo2.co.uk

REMEMBRANCE DAY SATURDAY 11 NOVEMBER

Remember those who died in combat by falling silent at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month – Remembrance Day. You can mark the occasion at the Festival of Remembrance at the Royal Albert Hall. There will also be a two-minute silence outside Queen Elizabeth Conference Centre on 9 Nov just before 11am. www.visitlondon.com

TOWER OF LONDON TUESDAY 14 NOVEMBER

Mark the Prince of Wales’s birthday by watching a gun salute. The Honourable Artillery Company will fire 62 rounds from three guns at 1pm on Tower Wharf facing the River Thames by the Tower of London. www.royal.uk

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HOT DATES

NOVEMBER

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

TV star Kelsey Grammer opens Big Fish the Musical at The Other Palace (p. 46) Catch Ibsen’s drama The Lady from the Sea at the Donmar (p. 50) Elvis on Tour opens at The O2, bringing the Graceland archives to London (p. 29) Dine with the stars at recently reopened Theatreland favourite Joe Allen (p. 70) Matisse in the Studio at the Royal Academy of Arts closes this week (p. 42) The new musical Everybody’s Talking About Jamie opens at the Apollo (p. 44) Drink a pint of bitter in the historic George Inn in Borough High Street The North: Fashioning Identity exhibition opens at Somerset House (p. 40) There’s a fire-walking charity event at ZSL London Zoo (p. 28) The EFG London Jazz Festival returns with UK and international acts (p. 50) It’s your last chance to see Cuban dance Vamos Cuba! at The Peacock (p. 52) Don’t miss the final day of Canaletto & the Art of Venice at The Queen’s Gallery (p. 42) Enjoy a leisurely meal at GBR, the delightful all-day restaurant at Dukes Hotel (p. 66) Try the new cocktail menu at Chino Latino at the Park Plaza London Riverbank Whizz around the ice at Somerset House to get in the mood for Christmas (p. 40) Classical Spectacular at the Royal Albert Hall features a laser display (p. 52) Head to Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland for festive rides and ice skating (p. 32) Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol opens at The Old Vic (p. 48) It’s your last chance to watch the tennis at the Nitto ATP Finals at The O2 Get down to Hakkasan chef Jeff Tan’s new Vietnamese eatery, Go-Viet (p. 64) The Geffrye opens its annual display of Christmas home decorations (p. 37) British art icons Gilbert & George open their latest show at White Cube (p. 42) Family favourite The Snowman returns to The Peacock theatre (p. 48) Make the most of the Black Friday sales, which are taking place all weekend Get in the Christmas spirit at beautiful Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire (p. 34) Last chance to see the Afghanistan show at the Imperial War Museum (p. 38) Be dazzled by Christmas at Kew, a magical light show in the gardens (p. 29) Welsh chef Tom Simmons’ eponymous restaurant has opened its doors (p. 63) Arsenal play Huddersfield at home at the Emirates Stadium (p. 37) The cult hit musical How to Win Against History opens at the Young Vic (p. 46)

For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com

THIS PAGE: ROGER FEDERER © WWW.ATPWORLDTOUR.COM; REMEMBRANCE SUNDAY & TOWER OF LONDON © ISTOCK. PREVIOUS PAGES: LORD MAYOR’S SHOW © C TOTMAN; CHEF COURTESY OF TASTE OF LONDON; CHRISTMAS LIGHTS COURTESY OF SEVEN DIALS; REGENT STREET MOTOR SHOW IMAGE COURTESY OF REGENT STREET MOTOR SHOW

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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As Thanksgiving takes place this month, Emma Levine discovers how you can enjoy the best of American culture, from the new musical Hamilton to the art of Jasper Johns

his month we fly the Stars and Stripes to celebrate Thanksgiving (23 Nov), America’s most important national holiday. It marks the first harvest festival of the English and Dutch settlers in America following the first pilgrims landing in the New World in 1620. November also marks the first anniversary of the election victory of President Donald

Trump and, love him or loathe him, his win goes down as one of the biggest shocks in American election history. President Trump moving into the White House has led to seismic changes that go far beyond the 50 states of the USA. Proving that we do indeed have a ‘special relationship’, we take a look at how you can experience North American culture in London.

HAMILTON © JOAN MARCUS

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THANKSGIVING | WHERE NOW

“Hamilton incurred the wrath of President Trump when its racially diverse cast made a statement on stage” a performance in London – are eager to see if the West End show will lead to a similar slew of awards. Its cast of predominantly British black, Asian and Middle Eastern actors are set to be joined by the show’s original creator, Lin-Manuel Miranda, at some point in the West End.

« One man who would surely have loved to get his hands on an elusive Hamilton ticket is Benjamin Franklin. Apart from being a Founding Father, he was also a scientist, diplomat and philosopher. At Benjamin Franklin House, an unassuming 1730s townhouse where he lived between 1757 and 1775, you can get a more conventional overview of the birth of the United States. A keen musician, he wrote a string quartet, and invented a glass harmonica – for which the likes of Mozart composed music especially.

JASPER JOHNS, FLAG, 1958. ENCAUSTIC ON CANVAS © JASPER JOHNS/VAGA, NEW YORK/DACS, LONDON 2017, PHOTO BY JAMIE STUKENBERG © THE WILDENSTEIN PLATTNER INSTITUTE, 2017

Hamilton

« The groundbreaking Broadway show Hamilton received a Pulitzer Prize for drama, plus 11 Tony Awards, and is predicted to take London by storm when it arrives in the West End (from 6 Dec). The show incurred the wrath of President Trump when its racially diverse cast made a public statement to Vice President Mike Pence, on stage, expressing their concerns at the Trump administration. Pence was booed by the audience, and the President took to Twitter to demand an apology for the ‘harassment’ caused by the cast. It certainly made the show even more newsworthy and popular. This hugely successful hip-hop musical tells the story of little-known American Founding Father Alexander Hamilton, from his upbringing as an impoverished orphan in the Caribbean to his arrival in New York, and his subsequent tangles in the American Revolution. Theatre aficionados – and those lucky enough to have bought a ticket for

« Dig deeper into the social history of America’s Deep South at the Young Vic’s performance of Yellowman (from 22 Nov). Set in poverty-stricken South Carolina in

the turbulent 1970s, it focuses on childhood friends Alma and Eugene, whose relationship develops into something deeper as they grow up. Yet their different racial backgrounds (the lighter-skinned Eugene is teased for being a ‘high yella’) lead to powerful tensions and internal racial prejudice within the black community.

« There are few artists more influential than Jasper Johns when it comes to turning the Stars and Stripes into an icon. The American’s famous 1958 work, Flag, is a version of the US flag made from a mixture of pigment and molten wax, complete with lumps, smeared on to strips of newspaper. The flag, said Johns, is something ‘the mind already knows’. You can see this, and many more of his works, at the Royal Academy of Arts’ major retrospective, Jasper Johns: ‘Something Resembling Truth’ (to 10 Dec). Equally as ‘American’, but representing the underbelly of US culture, the late Jean-Michel Basquiat was a prodigy of the downtown New York art scene, creating powerful graffiti statements across the city. Basquiat: Boom for Real at Barbican Art Gallery (to 28 Jan) displays more than 100 of the artist’s works, which use a breadth of materials from spray paint to collage. Basquiat was homeless and unemployed before finding fame as an artist, and died of a heroin overdose in 1988 aged just 27. Amazingly, earlier this year, one of his pieces became the most expensive art work ever sold at auction: Untitled (1982) was bought for $110.5m.

Jasper Johns’ Flag

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Where now | Thanksgiving

« When Prohibition hit the States in the 1920s, some savvy London hotels renamed their bars ‘the American Bar’ to attract their overseas visitors looking for a legal tipple. It was also the time of the first transatlantic cruise liners. They specialised in cocktails from ‘back home’ – the Manhattan, Martini and Sidecar. Almost a century on, two of these bars retain the name, which makes them good choices to raise a glass to Thanksgiving. Tucked away on a cobbled courtyard in

St James’s is the American Bar at The Stafford hotel. This quintessentially British venue is now a piece of the USA, with ephemera covering every inch of the venue, from the signed photos of celebrities to gridiron helmets and baseball hats. Hotel guests love leaving something of their own to display in the bar – including a bride’s garter and a padded bra. Look out for the bar stool dedicated to the late Nancy Wake, a New Zealander who turned World War II informant for the Allied troops. Something

of a heroine, she spent many an evening perched up at the bar in her latter years, sipping a G&T – and had a cushioned bar stool made especially for her. The American Bar at the Savoy hotel doesn’t have bras or garters hanging from the ceiling, but you can get a Hanky Panky – its most famous cocktail, created by its 1903 bartender Ada Coleman. Today, despite a major renovation at the hotel, its classic Art Deco interior remains, and it’s still renowned for its iconic American cocktails from the ‘golden

christopher’s courtesy of christopher’s; st paul’s service © Graham Lacdao

“Prayers are led by an American pastor, and an American choir leads the hymns”

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the stafford © adrian houston; cocktails © Ki Price/Emulsion London Limted 2016

christopher’s courtesy of christopher’s; st paul’s service © Graham Lacdao

Clockwise from bottom left: Christopher’s; Thanksgiving service at St Paul’s Cathedral; American Bar at The Stafford; cocktails at The Stafford

age’, such as the 1930s Rockefellers’ Reserve. Philippa Guy, who has recently been appointed as senior bartender at the Savoy’s famous American Bar, is the first woman in this role for 100 years.

« There’s a large American expat community in London – many of whom head to St Paul’s Cathedral each year for its US Thanksgiving Day service (23 Nov; 11am). The links with St Paul’s go back to 1903, when the financier

JP Morgan donated funds to bring electricity to the cathedral. This year the service is likely to be attended by the new US ambassador to the UK, Woody Johnson, a billionaire investor and now owner of the New York Jets American football team. Prayers are led by an American pastor, and a US choir leads the hymns. Representatives from the Marine Corps bear flags at the service, and there may even be a message from the President himself. Up to 2,000 people are expected to attend, and the event is free and unticketed.

« Much like Christmas Day over here, the focus of Thanksgiving is the huge family feast, at home, usually made up of turkey, sweet potatoes and pumpkin pie – similar to what the Founding Fathers would have eaten. But for Americans visiting London, or anyone wanting to experience how it’s done across the pond, it’s easy to get a taste of it over here. And, London being London, you can be sure that there’s an interesting twist on tradition. Christopher’s in Covent Garden pulls out all the stops for its special day. This Grade II-listed building, which was once a papier-mâché factory and later a casino, is now a stunningly slick space recalling the glamorous modern American era, and has been a restaurant since 1991. It’s a real treat all year round, but for Thanksgiving you can drink a toast to the Founding Fathers in the elegant Martini Bar, or get stuck into its special menu on the day itself: Maryland crab cake starter, slow-cooked ballotine of turkey with corn bread and hazelnut and cherry stuffing, and pumpkin pie with honey bourbon crème Chantilly. For a contemporary spin, Red Rooster puts a dollop of style on cuisine from the US of A – complete with a house gospel band every Sunday. The new restaurant is a taste of Harlem, successfully brought to Shoreditch by New York chef and restaurateur Marcus Samuelsson. In a brash, stylish interior, part of the new Curtain hotel, it’s all about bold, wow-factor décor with whimsical art and icons on the walls – and authentic soul food to match. The deep-fried, buttermilk-soaked chicken is standout, and the corn bread, with honey-whipped butter and chilli jam, is chewy and succulent. No wonder, then, that Samuelsson is a favourite chef of the Obamas, having cooked for them at the White House. w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 13

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Where now | NORTHERN stars

NORTHERN As Somerset House becomes the London outpost of the North of England for a new exhibition, Alex Wellington uncovers the angels of the North This page, clockwise from above: Karen Elson, 2005, by Elaine Constantine; Abbey Clancy from The Liver Birds; still from The Liver Birds from LOVE magazine

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ome visitors to London are surprised by what they find. After watching TV programmes such as Downton Abbey and The Young Victoria, they expect it to be all royal palaces, stately homes and cups of tea. This, if you like, is the ‘idea’ of Britain. And though there is truth in the cliché, London also has skyscrapers like The Shard, multiethnic communities such as Brixton, and one of the world’s liveliest nightlife scenes. In a similar way, there is an ‘idea’ of the North of England as a dark, industrial landscape where the men wear flat caps and drink their lives away in pubs with little joy.

ONE REGION, MANY EXPERIENCES

North: Fashioning Identity is a new exhibition at Somerset House (which is, admittedly, a building as grand as a stately home, where you can get a jolly good cup of tea) that aims to investigate and explode this ‘idea’ of the North. ‘The show is trying to unpick ideas of what the North is really about,’ says Claire Catterall, the director of exhibitions. ‘The idea of the North is incredibly interesting as a concept: it has a distinct and romantic identity. Some of it is built on cliché, and some of it on

To better reflect the racial diversity in the North, Somerset House has added new works to the exhibits previously displayed in Liverpool’s Open Eye Gallery. Catterall explains that one of the stereotypes about the North is that it’s ‘quite masculine and heteronormative [the assumption that everyone is straight] and very white’. To offer some balance, she says, ‘most of the new work tends to be documentary, with aspects such as the black, Indian and Chinese communities’. Tom Wood, whose Liverpool street photography is represented in the exhibition, goes further. ‘Liverpool is like a different place from the rest of the North, a different country altogether,’ he says. ‘Preston and Sheffield always seemed much more like ‘the North’ to me: chimneys, ironworks, mills. ‘There’s a big gap even between Liverpool and Manchester, even though it’s only a short train ride away. There’s a huge Irish influence in Liverpool, but also a lot of Welsh, and Polish, and people from Africa. Women have always traditionally been very strong in Liverpool, and given a lot of respect. Manchester is more gritty, aggressive, a man’s town. Liverpool is softened by different races and by the sea.

truth. We’re trying to explore what is truthful, and how clichés are used and why. ‘The idea of the North became cemented in Victorian times, when the North became industrialised: red-brick buildings blackened with soot, cloth caps and whippet dogs, Wigan Pier, TV soap Coronation Street and, more recently, Joy Division and ‘Madchester’ and those bare-legged coatless women out on the lash [getting drunk] in freezing January.’ The exhibition is largely photographic, but there are also videos, artworks and clothes by noted designers such as Nottingham-born Sir Paul Smith. Northern designers appear on video speaking about their roots. ‘When you hear people talking about their experiences of growing up in the North and what it has meant to them and their work, you get a great feeling of it as being very diverse,’ Catterall says. ‘Some came from leafy suburbs, some from beautiful seaside towns or rural areas. Not everyone was working class, and there are all sexualities and genders.’

There’s a sense of humour that is particular to Liverpool, and which I miss since I have moved away.’ That warmth and sense of humour is evident in the reaction to his work. Wood says that though he took photographs in all sorts of places, including markets visited almost exclusively by women and football matches where the male aggression and energy were off the scale, he seldom got hassled. In fact, locals took him to their hearts, calling him ‘the photie man’. One of Wood’s long-term projects in the early 1980s was photographing youths in the Chelsea Reach nightclub. When one of his subjects, singer Steve Roberts, saw himself hanging on the wall of the Tate years later, he wrote a song about it: ‘We didn’t treat him with suspicion, didn’t knock the camera out of his hand / He caught us kissing who we shouldn’t, dancing dressed up to Wham / In the Tate I was hanging, making shapes with my hand / If you’re

RETHINKING THE NORTH

Above: Tom Wood’s Girl from Seacombe, New Brighton, 1985 Below: Michelle Sank’s Blaze from the Water’s Edge, 2007

photo credit goes here

NSTARS

listening Steve Henderson, we’re immortal, thank you Photie Man.’ The revered art critic John Berger assisted Wood’s ascent from street snapper to artist by writing that his photographs had ‘saved a Merseyside that was forever unlosable’. The difference between the effete South and the down-to-earth North is nicely encapsulated in the fact that ‘We’re immortal, thank you Photie Man’ makes precisely the same point, but in a very Liverpudlian way. One thing is for sure. If London doesn’t quite disabuse visitors of the notion that Britain is all stately homes and cups of tea, North: Fashioning Identity definitely will. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. www.somersethouse.org.uk w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 15

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Where now | NORTHERN stars

PETER SAVILLE You could count all the famous graphic designers in the UK on the fingers of a cartoon character’s hand. One of them is Peter Saville. As a director of Factory Records, he defined the aesthetic of Manchester bands at a time when the city was the epicentre of the music universe. The Joy Division cover for Unknown Pleasures that spawned a thousand T-shirts? That was Saville’s. The die-cut cover for New Order’s Blue Monday that became the best-selling 12-inch single of all time, but was so expensive to print that the label lost 5p with each sale? Saville’s too. Fashion writer and broadcaster Lou Stoppard, who co-curated North: Fashioning Identity, says: ‘The North of England has not only produced a myriad cultural moments and creative talents, it also serves as an inspiration to those who live far beyond England.’ Raf Simons, chief creative officer at Calvin Klein, for example, ‘finds beauty and inspiration in the ‘Madchester’-born graphics of Peter Saville,’ she says.

‘LIVERPOOL IS LIKE A DIFFERENT PLACE FROM THE NORTH, A DIFFERENT COUNTRY ALTOGETHER’ – tom WOOD, PHOtOGRAPHER

Sir Paul Smith Few fashion designers are more closely associated with London than Sir Paul Smith. He learned his trade on Savile Row, and opened a shop in Covent Garden before it was trendy. The London Design Museum has devoted two exhibitions to him, in 1995 and 2013, and his flagship store is at 9 Albemarle Street in the heart of Mayfair. Yet Sir Paul is, in fact, a proud son of the North – he grew up in Nottingham and opened his first tiny store there in 1970. North: Fashioning Identity features unseen garments from a Paul Smith range that is available only in Japan. It’s called New Bold, and is inspired by Manchester and its music scene. As Catterall says: ‘For an idea of Manchester to translate all the way to Tokyo speaks volumes!”

Agyness Deyn For a few years in the late noughties, Agyness Deyn was London’s best-known young model. Not a day would go by without her appearing in the gossip pages, and her ad campaigns were everywhere. Yet she began her working life in a fish and chip shop up North. ‘People have mythologised where she was discovered,’ says Catterall, explaining the inclusion of Deyn. ‘Alasdair McLellan did a photo spread on her in i-D magazine called So Much to Answer For [from a lyric by Manchester band The Smiths]. Tim Walker did a photoshoot with post-war stereotypes in a spread entitled Angel of the North in Vogue, which had Agyness Deyn looking moody beside a line of washing.’

this page: paul smith courtesy of paul smith; Agyness Deyn and peter saville © getty; shirley baker © shirley baker estate. previous pages: Girl from Seacombe, New Brighton 1985 © Tom Wood; Blaze from the Water’s Edge, 2007 © Michelle Sank; ‘liver birds’ stills © Alice Hawkins; ‘Karen Elson’, 2005 © Elaine Constantine

Shirley Baker Where Tom Wood is indelibly linked with Liverpool, the photographer Shirley Baker is best known for her street photography of Manchester. She shot for magazines and newspapers before becoming a lecturer at Salford College of Art in 1960. But it is for her passion project that she is best known. For 15 years, inspired by Henri Cartier-Bresson, she documented her city. Though the contexts are grim – depicting families in poverty during a slum clearance – her subjects are anything but: the warmth of community shines through. For Catterall, Shirley Baker is a highlight of the Somerset House show: ‘She just took photos of everyday life – men loitering on streets, kids playing – but they really capture the essence of life up North. They are also absolutely beautiful.’

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

BUILDING BLOCKS With 24 different LEGO pieces LEGO City Advent Calendar, £19.97, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

TREASURED MOMENTS Designed by Alison Gardiner Treasure Chest Advent Calendar, £18, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER

FROM LONDON As the countdown to Christmas begins, take your pick of advent calendars

BRILLIANTLY BEAUTIFUL This calendar is exclusive to Selfridges 24 Day Beauty Advent Calendar, £120, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

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CALLING THE SHOTS Open these little drawers in a traditional telephone box Eleanor Stuart Advent Calendar, £99, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL HOME SWEET HOME A cute gingerbread-style house with 24 mini drawers Wooden Advent Calendar House, £59, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

SKIN DEEP Try these 24 skin saviours from Decléor’s ranges Decléor Advent Calendar, £65, House of Fraser, 101 Victoria St, SW1E 6QX

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

CHILD’S PLAY A perfect choice for four to 10 year olds Playmobil Christmas Farm Advent Calendar, £20, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

LET THERE BE LIGHT A calendar full of classic Jo Malone candles Advent Calendar, £300, Jo Malone, 101 Regent St, W1B 4EZ

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Opera Passion, Power and Politics T

ogether the V&A and the Royal Opera House create a landmark exhibition presenting a vivid story of opera from its origins in late-Renaissance Italy to the present day. Told through the lens of seven premieres in seven European cities, this immersive exhibition takes you on a journey through nearly 400 years, culminating in the international explosion of opera in the 20th and 21st centuries. The exhibition reveals how the creation of a new opera can reflect the social, political, artistic and economic conversations that define cities, and explains the process of making opera from libretto to score, and from design to performance. The cities and premieres explored are: Venice and Monteverdi’s L’incoronazione di

Poppea, 1642; London and Handel’s Rinaldo, 1711; Vienna and Mozart’s Le Nozze di Figaro, 1786; Milan and Verdi’s Nabucco, 1842; Paris and Wagner’s Tannhäuser revised version, 1861; Dresden and Richard Strauss’s Salome, 1905; and St Petersburg and Shostakovich’s Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk,, 1934. This is the inaugural exhibition in the V&A’s new Sainsbury Gallery, a new purpose-built subterranean gallery opening as part of the V&A’s Exhibition Road Quarter, and one of the largest temporary exhibition spaces in the UK. #OperaPassion Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 0207942 2000. Book tickets now at www.vam.ac.uk/opera

Clockwise from left: Milano from the series Fratelli d’Italia; exhibition image; Barbara Hannigan in Skin exhibition image; Written on Skin; George Frideric Handel; Salome

SPONSORED BY SOCIETE GENERAL. SOUND PARTNER BOWERS & WILKINS. GENEROUSLY SUPPORTED BY THE BLAVATNIK FAMILY FOUNDATION AND THE TAYLOR FAMILY FOUNDATION. WITH FURTHER SUPPORT FROM GROW @ ANNENBERG, BERTELSMANN AND COCKAYNE – GRANTS FOR THE ARTS, A DONOR-ADVISED FUND OF THE LONDON COMMUNITY FOUNDATION

WHERE PROMOTION

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12/10/2017 15:35

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Above and below: Battersea Park fireworks

Light up the sky The British tradition of Bonfire Night dates back to 1605, when a Catholic conspirator, Guy Fawkes, attempted to blow up King James I and the Houses of Parliament with barrels of gunpowder – but was caught red-handed. Fawkes’s plot was foiled, but its failure has been celebrated across the country on 5 November ever since. This year, Alexandra Palace is going all-out with its display (3-4 Nov). In a world first, DJ Yoda curates a soundtrack to accompany the firework and laser show, and there is a March of the Phoenix parade of magical characters telling the story of the Phoenix’s rebirth from the flames – so expect motorised animatronics, aerialists, fire breathers, giant puppets, drummers and dancers. A family zone has a bonfire, kids’ funfair and roaming performers. You can ice skate indoors and listen to DJs and live music headlined by Jazzie B from Soul II Soul in a festival tent, and pay extra to access an indoor German beer festival. On the Friday, the event kicks off at 5pm, with a laser show at 8pm and fireworks at 8.30pm. The Saturday event begins at 4pm,

with the laser show at 7.30pm and fireworks at 8pm (Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY). Bonfires are a rarity these days, so the fire at Battersea Park (4 Nov) makes it extra special. Gates open at 6pm, after which you can enjoy live entertainment, food stalls, mulled wine and the bonfire, which is lit at 7.30pm. The fireworks, which will be set to music, start at 8pm (Access via Albert Gate, Sun Gate, Rosary Gate, Chelsea Gate and Alexandra Gate, SW11 4NJ). Lambeth Fireworks in Brockwell Park (4 Nov) returns for the first time since 2014 – and it’s back with a bang (and band). As this year’s theme is Night at the Movies, a 20-minute mix of tracks from family-friendly blockbusters will accompany the display, and up-and-coming London-based talent perform on stage before and after the

fireworks. More than 20,000 people are expected to visit its 25 food stalls, five bars and funfair. Rumour has it there might be a laser show, too, but no bonfire. The gates open at 5pm, with the fireworks starting at 8pm (Brockwell Park, SE24 9BJ). Victoria Park’s fireworks (5 Nov; 7pm) are free and are accompanied by a lively soundtrack. There won’t be a bonfire, but there will be food and drink stalls. Just turn up (Grove Rd, E3 5SN). Meanwhile, Blackheath’s festivities (4 Nov), close to Greenwich, are also free and attract 80,000 people – making it one of London’s biggest free displays. A funfair opens at noon, followed by 20 food and drink stalls at 5pm and fireworks at 8pm. You can’t miss people selling glow-in-the-dark lightsabers (Blackheath, SE3). Sparklers are not allowed at any of the displays.

IMAGES © WWW.ENABLELC.ORG

Fireworks are synonymous with celebrations, but Sarah Riches takes a look at how Bonfire Night began after an unlikely event, and reveals how you can enjoy displays across the city

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

SIGHTSEEING

Buckingham Palace

Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s closed to the public, except in summer when you can explore the stunning State Rooms. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/ Green Park.

Banqueting House

Changing the Guard

Apsley House

This grand 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Daily 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham The clock-face of Big Ben Palace detachments. The New is made up of 300 panes Guard, who during the course of of glass that are only the ceremony become the Queen’s cleaned once every Guard, march to Buckingham Palace five years. The British Library from Wellington Barracks. Free. The world’s largest library with every From 10am; please check for dates. book ever published. The library also hosts www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham temporary exhibitions, has a great permanent Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 collection and a café. To 28 Feb 2018: Harry 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park. Potter: A History of Magic. Unveiling rare books, manuscripts and magical objects, which are Chelsea Physic Garden celebrate the 20th anniversary of JK Rowling’s London’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1673 first book. Please check for times. Admission free; as the Apothecaries’ Garden, is home to 5,000 charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. species of plants, including medicinal ones and www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 tropical plants in glasshouses. Adult £10.50; 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross. child £6.95. Mon 11am-5pm garden only; Tue-Fri

11am-6pm garden and shop; Sun 11am-6pm garden, shop, café. www.chelseaphysicgarden. co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens See Old Masters on display in this manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by Ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The restored 18thcentury gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Sun-Wed 10am-5pm. House adult £7.20; child £4.30. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck or take part in a lively programme of family-friendly events. 1, 8, 15, 22 & 29 Nov: Toddler Time. Bring your little sailors along for songs, stories and playtime. 10 Nov: Fisherman’s Friends. Live music from a ‘buoy band’ – aka an eight-strong band of men. 18 Nov: Swinging Sailors: Anniversary Ball. Celebrate the ship’s 148th birthday with 1920s and 1930s tunes. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

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SIGHTSEEING Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th century. Silent night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevershouse. co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Please check

for staged performances, talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Please check for prices. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience, which makes it a great family day out. Daily from 8.30am. Adult £35; child £27. www.goape. co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Ham House and Garden One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses on the River Thames. Its gardens are said to be haunted. View the private apartments of the Duke and Duchess of Lauderdale. See special objects and letters from the store rooms and experience Ham in a new way. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.nationaltrust. org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London Former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was in 1968 and 1969. Regular evening events, including recitals. 2 Nov: A programme of music by composers connected to Princess Charlotte. 8 Nov: Acoustic guitar pieces exploring the influence of the blues on Hendrix. 16 Nov: Contemporary works with live electronics. 25 Nov: Battle of the bands style competition for budding guitarists. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am5pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament Site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Tours every Sat in Nov. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books and letters, plus the engagement ring he gave to Fanny Brawne. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityof london.gov.uk/ keatshouse hampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead. 26 W H E R E LO N D O N I N O V E M B E R 2017

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SIGHTSEEING Kensington Palace

Kenwood

This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’, which explores how her style changed throughout her life. Enlightened Princesses: Caroline, Augusta, Charlotte and the Shaping of the Modern World. This exhibition shines a spotlight on three women who married into the British royal family. Daily, please check for times. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

In Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens are a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Free admission. Please check for times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as kids take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has two storeys of everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, racing pit lane and aviation

academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up, which is why it hosts adult nights. Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Adult from £18; child from £39. www.london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the chillingly amusing characters of the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into landmarks on view. Joint tickets with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has over 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin beach and endangered Sumatran tigers, you can see the Land of the Lions exhibition – which features Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble an Indian national park. 9 Nov: Walk of Fire and Ice. Walk barefoot across red-hot embers (p. 30). Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £22.73; child £17.73. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Madame Tussauds Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, Sherlock Holmes Experience and new interactive exhibition Alien Escape. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds. com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £4.50; child £2.30. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument. 28 W H E R E Lo n d o n I n o v e m b e r 2017

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SIGHTSEEING The O2 From 3 Nov: Elvis on Tour. The King of Rock

’n’ roll returns to The O2 with a new exhibition of 200 artefacts from the Graceland archives. From 9.30am. Tickets £12-£25. To 7 Jan: My Name Is Prince. The world premiere of the official exhibition about the legendary musician. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. Check for guided tours. Daily 10am5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Please check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queen elizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site features tropical greenhouses and a pagoda. The Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views over the site.

From 22 Nov: Christmas at Kew A trail of illuminations (p. 34). Daily from 10am, please check for times. Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Mon-Sat 10am-4pm (closed 11 Nov). Adult £10; child £5.80. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne and his family, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am; drop in 2pm5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

yonda courtesy of yonda

Start your engines... The trend for feeling like a local while on holiday is still going strong, and now a new self-drive sightseeing company, Yonda (p. 34), lets you zip about the city as if you’ve lived here for years. Yonda’s fleet of automatic cars come as two-seater convertibles or four-seaters with a panoramic roof. They’re compact enough to fit into narrow cobbled lanes, which means you can visit places coaches can’t. Sat Nav guides you around the sights – and road closures – while providing a fun commentary, though if you opt for the four-seater, you can have a chauffeur to drive and guide you.

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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Observatory

SEA LIFE London Aquarium

Shrek’s Adventure!

The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular workshops for astronomers and observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. This is all set within Greenwich’s beautiful park. There is also free entry to the Astronomy Centre, the Altazimuth Pavilion, shop, café and stunning views over the River Thames and the London skyline. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/ Cutty Sark.

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with more than 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of Jellyfish. Get up close to a swarm of jellyfish at this permanent exhibition. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife.co.uk/ london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Chheck for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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This vibrant central London marina, which is tucked away by the Tower of London, dates back to the 11th century. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. This is also the royal family’s parish church, and it has close connections with 10 Downing Street. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Walk this way ZSL London Zoo is taking steps to outdo its naked streaking events and silent disco fundraisers by hosting a Walk of Fire and Ice (9 Nov; p. 28). Adults walk barefoot across a 10ft path of red-hot embers, which should take about four steps to complete. Last year, 60 people braved the 1,200°F path – and most managed it more than once. Beforehand, participants can attend the Nothing is Impossible seminar, which offers tips on taking the challenge. They then make sure their feet are clean and dry before beginning the walk. Buckets of cold water are on hand – just in case… All proceeds from the event will help to protect wildlife around the world.

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St Katharine Docks

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fire walker © istock

SIGHTSEEING St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 320-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a passionate guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check for bridge lift times. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 0207403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Please check for times and prices. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 0207930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminster-abbey. org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

River Trips Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment,

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £21.50; child £9.70. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Climbs take place in all weather. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The Vault Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault was originally used to protect the Queen’s treasures. Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, it’s home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia from around the world which was previously owned by famous musicians. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free! If you pre-book you can also do yoga every Sat 8.30am (£45). It also hosts silent discos every Sat 10pm. Check for times. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great

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Child’s play One of the UK’s biggest winter events, Hyde Park Winter Wonderland (from 17 Nov; p. 34) marks the arrival of the festive season. As well as a traditional fairground and a big wheel, the park has the UK’s largest outdoor ice rink – a 1,600sqm oval under a canopy of 100,000 lights. A band plays in a Victorian bandstand in the centre of it. You can also visit an igloo bar and see ice sculptures in The Magical Ice Kingdom, which has a deep sea adventure theme this year – so expect a mythical underwater journey. Also new this season is Cinderella on Ice, an ice-skating show by 18 world, European and national championship skaters. When your nose is so cold and it feels like it’s about to drop off, warm up over bratwurst at the Bavarian market, then sip hot cider or hot chocolate as you listen to live music in chalets with real fires. Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3.40pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises

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Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hopon, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat (advance booking essential). Other cruises also available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 11.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

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The fastest and most frequent fleet on the River Thames, with departures from 21 major piers every 20 minutes. There are discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment are valid. Using GPS tracking to pinpoint your location, it provides a real-time audio explanation of the sights as you pass them. River Roamer hop on and off adult £16.30; child £8.15. www.mbna thamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich/ Thames Barrier 10.20am-3.30pm; from St Katharine’s to Greenwich/Thames Barrier 10.20pm-4.20pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thames riverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenalinefuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 11am. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. T: 020-7740 0400.

Tours & Guided Walks Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of opentop double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £31.50; child £18. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk. Please check for prices. Daily from 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one

hyde park winter wonderland © Jim Marks Photography

London’s oldest and best Taxi Tour company offers more London’s oldest andthan best200 Taxitours Tourof London and the countryside company offers more than 200 tours of Sit backLondon and relax asthe your Registered driver and countryside Guide takes you in an Iconic Sit back and relax asaround your Registered driver Licensed London Black Taxi Guide takes you around in an Iconic Licensed London Black Taxi Choose from 3,4,5,and 8 hour London tours. Besidesfrom the 3,4,5,and main attractions Choose 8 hour explore Londonparts tours. of London tourists never get to see. Besides the main attractions explore parts of London tourists never get to see. General Sightseeing tours, Themed tours include Harry Potter, Beatles, James tours Bond, General Sightseeing tours, Themed Dr Who,Harry JackPotter, the Ripper, Ghost tours, plus include Beatles, James Bond, many more. Dr Who, Jack the Ripper, Ghost tours, plus many more. Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey

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HYDE PARK WINTER WONDERLAND © JIM MARKS PHOTOGRAPHY

of Roman London’s most fascinating remains, discovered in 1848. Guided tours last 45 minutes. £8 adult; £6 child. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who one – on which you’ll see a Tardis, locations from the films and TV series – and one for TV Downton Abbey fans. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Free-£12. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours. com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

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See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.golden tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 free themed 45-minute tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station. www.bee-midtown.org. 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.

Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the serial killer Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

The London Helicopter Tour Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 0207887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

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SIGHTSEEING

A winter’s tale Winter evenings may be dark but the one million lights at Christmas at Kew (from 22 Nov; p. 29) brighten things up. At Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, a trail of illuminations, each more spectacular than the last, guide you around the grounds as you keep cosy with mulled wine, hot chocolate and roasted chestnuts. Stroll through a tunnel of lights, candlelit woodland, a scented fire garden and glittering floral installations. Along the way, you can hop on a merry-go-round, while little ones will enjoy toasting marshmallows. The highlight is the Palm House, which is illuminated in a 20-minute laser show which sees Santa fly through the sky over the pond. Think it’s all make believe? Then visit to see for yourself!

Royal Albert Hall Tours

Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of the famous killers Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary. T: 07722-247660.

Take a one-hour tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year, please call for times. Adult £13.75; child £6.75. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each take around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. Mon 2.30pm. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk

Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues, it’s also home to the Royal Ballet company. Backstage Tour. An insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour

Ride around the West End and Walks depart daily from the City in the evening for a different Original London Visitor Centre. view of the capital. Regular In the 19th century, ‘frost Choose from Changing the Guard departures from outside The fairs’ were held on the at 10am), Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, and Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. 7.30pm frozen River Thames, Jack the Ripper at 3.30pm (from & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. with feasting and wild Tower Hill Station). £9.50 per walk, www.seelondonbynight.com. animals or free with an Original London 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 Sightseeing Tour. An Explore Walks 4744. E6. Station: Green Park. Pass, which grants access to all three Shakespeare’s Globe walks over a 48-hour period, costs £19. This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Charing Cross. Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. The Original Tour Open daily, please check for times. Exhibition With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. hop-on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original Station: Blackfriars. 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, Wembley Tours child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. To 28 Feb: Go behind the scenes at the famous football All 24- & 48-hour tickets are extended by an extra stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour 24 hours and include an extended Greenwich takes you inside the dressing rooms and through River Cruise. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 the players’ tunnel. Be photographed with a Cockspur St, off Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. replica FA Cup. From 10am; please check for T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross. dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.

com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights and little-known cobbled streets (p. 29). The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way. Congestion Charge is included in the price. £60 per 90-minute tour. www.goyonda. com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Festivals & Events Hyde Park Winter Wonderland From 17 Nov: One of the UK’s biggest winter festivals, held every festive season. As well as a Bavarian market, traditional fairground, big wheel and circus performers, there is the UK’s largest outdoor ice rink, set around Hyde Park’s Victorian bandstand. The Magical Ice Kingdom has an immersive walk-through experience, filled to the brim with ice and snow sculptures all in a setting of -10 C, and will take your breath away (p. 32). Daily 10am-10pm. Free admission. www.hydepark winterwonderland.com. Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E6. Station: Hyde Park.

Out Of Town Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland. From 24 Nov: Christmas at Blenheim. See the beautiful grounds lit up with stunning illuminations. Please check for opening times. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheim palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

christmas at kew © rbg, kew

London Horror Tours

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Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the River Thames. Visit the Tudor kitchens and Henry’s state apartments. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £18.40; child £9.20. www.hrp. org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Historic Royal Places – Spines 6 Sheet Portrait Beautiful country home decoratedFormat as it would have been in the 1780s, with formal gardens Spine Width 200mm and stable tearoom. To 5 Nov: House 11am-5pm; Spine 1800mm from 6 Nov: house closed. To 5 Nov: GardenHeight 10am-5pm; from 6 Nov: 10am-dusk. Adult Text £10.90; HRP 121pt (Tracked at +40) child £5.45. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Palace Text 181pt (Tracked at -10) Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth. Icon 114mm Wide (2.8pt/1.4pt) Osterley Park and House

Palace of Holyroodhouse

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Historic Royal Places – Spines Format 6 Sheet Portrait Spine Width 200mm Spine Height 1800mm HRP Text 121pt (Tracked at +40) Palace Text 181pt (Tracked at -10) Stonehenge Icon 114mm Wide (2.8pt/1.4pt) The world’s most famous stone circle, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. English Heritage members get exclusive early morning tours. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £19.30; child £11.60. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Waddesdon Manor This Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century has magnificent wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. Please check for times. 6-10 Nov: grounds closed. Adult: £10; child £5. www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village Arts and crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle

ESCAPE

Hillsborough Castle Hillsborough Castle

CHRISTMAS AT KEW © RBG, KEW

Hampton Court Palace

GREAT INDOORS TO THE

Discover the hidden stories of Britain’s royal past this weekend at Henry VIII’s Hampton Court Palace.

The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily from 9.45am-4.15pm. Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens To 8 Nov: This historic house with its 3,000-acre deer park has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years. Daily 11am-5pm. Gardens and deer park adult £7.50; child £4.75. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525290333. Off map Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Book online to save

Just 35 minutes from Waterloo

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Monet’s Houses of Parliament, London, Sun Breaking Through the Fog, 1904; Pissarro’s Saint Anne’s Church at Kew, London 1892; Monet’s Leicester Square, 1901

Tate Britain’s new exhibition reveals how prominent French Impressionist artists had a very different view of London, discovers Emma Levine Fleeing your homeland to escape war has gone on for centuries around the world, and can have bittersweet results. Just consider Claude Monet’s reaction on arriving in London, along with many other artists who escaped France during the Franco-Prussian War almost 150 years ago. Monet fled here to avoid conscription. Unable to find British buyers for his works, he was miserable, couldn’t speak the language and complained about London’s changeable weather conditions, especially its fog. He found it ‘outrageous that these British artists painted London brick by brick’. This is according to Dr Caroline Corbeau-Parsons, curator of Tate Britain’s new exhibition Impressionists in London, French Artists in Exile 1870-1904 (from 2 Nov). The exhibition brings together more than 100 works by prominent painters including Monet, Camille Pissarro and James Tissot. Among the highlights are six of Monet’s famous paintings of the Houses of Parliament – ghostly works that pick out the distinguished outline amid a blue-grey haze of mist, which

he painted from his room on the top floor of the Savoy hotel. The River Thames and London continued to be key themes in French art, and form the exhibition’s largest section. Paintings by André Derain of London landmarks contrast sharply with Monet’s depictions. The exhibition casts an unusual perspective on the way these ‘outsider’ French artists perceived the city and its culture, from

a fascination with our famous fog, to the parks – a sharp contrast to the sunny café culture they were used to depicting back home. In fact, they were astonished to see how people were allowed to walk on the grass – such behaviour was not permitted on the pristine, formal lawns of Parisian gardens. Pissarro’s 1892 oil painting of Kew Green shows the Pointillist’s vibrant depiction of figures enjoying the green open space, which has never before been shown in Britain. Although the life of the artist is often a destitute one, the exhibition also focuses on notable figures in London whom the French artists gravitated towards. Charles-Francois Daubigny had a key influence on Monet and Pissarro, and has been dubbed the true father of French Impressionism. And much as they may have maligned London life, Monet and Pissarro were likely to have been saved from oblivion here – it was in the capital that they met the prolific art dealer Paul Durand-Ruel, who bought several of their paintings on the spot. For full listing, turn to p. 42

Houses of Parliament courtesy of musée d’orsay; kew courtesy of private collection; leicester square courtesy of Fondation Jean et Suzanne Planque (in deposit at Musée Granet, Aix-en-Provence), Photo © Luc Chessex

Making an impression

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

Museums Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Self-guided audio tour, or Legends Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum The story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, plus activities for kids. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.bankof england.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Gustav Klutsis, Under the BaNner of Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin 1933

of Fondation Jean et Suzanne Planque (in deposit at Musée Granet, Aix-en-Provence), Photo © Luc Chessex

Benjamin Franklin House

Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

Charles Dickens Museum Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in authentic Victorian style, it displays his personal possessions. Please check for themed Dickensian walks. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Charming 18th-century townhouse, the last remaining home of the American Founding Father, with tours led by costumed actors (p. 11). Architectural tours Mon; historical shows Wed-Sun (check for times). Shows adult £8; under 16s free. Mon tours adult £6; under 16s free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Explore the secret bunker where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

The British Museum

Clink Prison Museum

Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Permanent displays and treasures including the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. Regular talks, evening events and performances.

In this spooky former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Churchill War Rooms

The Design Museum One of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. From 15 Nov: Ferrari: Under the Skin. Celebrating the brand’s 70th anniversary (p.38). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Florence Nightingale Museum Dedicated to the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’, as well as the Jamaican-born nurse Mary Seacole. Free tours. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale. co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s first home for abandoned kids, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Please check for regular exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Geffrye Restored 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to today. From 21 Nov: Christmas Past: 400 Years of Seasonal Traditions in English Homes. Festive home decorations. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours and exhibitions. www.geffryemuseum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Revolutionary displays London marks the Russian Revolution, a century on. At the Saatchi Gallery, Art Riot: Post-Soviet Actionism (from 16 Nov; p. 42) reflects the past 25 years of protest in post-Communist Russia, from Ukrainian-born performance artist Oleg Kulik, famed for his ‘mad dog’ persona, to feminist punk band Pussy Riot – two of whose members have been imprisoned for their protests. Soviet artists of the time are the focus of Red Star Over Russia, at Tate Modern (from 8 Nov; p. 42), with five decades of art from the October Revolution to the death of Stalin in 1953. Here, we can see posters and graphics by important artists such as El Lissitzky, known to have influenced the Bauhaus movement.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Guards Museum

London Transport Museum

Learn about the history, stories and heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.the guardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

The story of London’s transport system, located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market. See iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train, historic posters and more. Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum. co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 0207379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurous Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and many musical instruments, plus gardens. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to explore the ceremonial duties of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Daily 10am-5pm. Please check for occasional closures. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history. Don’t miss the London 2012 Cauldron, lit at the start of the Olympic Games. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Museum of London Docklands The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. Displays include London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission

free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including Nelson, Navy, Nation, which explores the life of the naval hero. The interactive Great Map exhibit reveals stories from maritime history. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from dinosaur skeletons to bugs. To Mar 2018: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Queen’s House This 17th-century house, which is an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying an art collection spanning 400 years, including works by Gainsborough and Hogarth.

Imperial War Museum (IWM) Huge displays relating to global conflicts, particularly those involving Britain, plus the powerful Holocaust Exhibition and art collection in the First World War Galleries. To 28 May 2018: Age of Terror: Art Since 9/11. Featuring works of more than 40 global artists that respond to war and conflict. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Jack the Ripper Museum Museum dedicated to the history of the East End in the 1880s, focusing on the serial killer. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.jackthe rippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 0207488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a recreation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter, and the harrowing Holocaust Gallery. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of vehicles from James Bond films, including the Aston Martin DB5 and the Crocodile Submarine. Daily 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Start your engines When 10-year-old Enzo watched racing driver Felice Nazzaro win the 1908 Circuito di Bologna, it changed his life. The boy’s family name was Ferrari, and although he was a grocer’s son with little formal education, he had a passion for fast cars that would change the motor industry forever. Ferrari: Under the Skin at The Design Museum (from 15 Nov; p. 37) celebrates the brand’s 70th anniversary with a look behind the scenes at the life and achievements of Enzo, showing his early hand-sculpted models, personal memorabilia and displays about his racing career. While many may drool at the notion of a fast car, this is also all about one man’s dream.

image courtesy of ferrari

Museum of the life and work of Frederic, Lord Leighton, in his former home. Permanent collections include his paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus tiles from the Middle East in the Arab Hall. Daily 10am-5.30pm, closed Tue. Adult £14; child £12. www.leightonhouse.co.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

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V&A EXHIBITION ROAD QUARTER NOW OPEN Our biggest transformation in 100 years Victoria and Albert Museum vam.ac.uk #REVEALVAM

The Exhibition Road Quarter has been generously supported by The Monument Trust, The Dr Mortimer and Theresa Sackler Foundation, The Headley Trust, The Blavatnik Family Foundation, the Garfield Weston Foundation, the Heritage Lottery Fund and other donors including Peter Williams and Heather Acton and the Friends of the V&A. V&A Exhibition Road Quarter, designed by AL_A Â© Hufton+Crow

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Don’t miss the spiral Tulip Stairs and the ornately painted Queen’s Presence Chamber ceiling. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/ queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum, with more than 100 aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet, plus photographs and films. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Science Museum

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years, and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics from around the world. To 18 Feb 2018: Balenciago: Shaping Fashion. Get to know fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, and see how his work influenced fashion. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection

The former Wallace family home displays a collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Frank Hals’ The Museum of London Laughing Cavalier. Free tours on originally opened in selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. 1912 in Kensington Admission free. www.wallace Palace, near collection.org. Hertford House, Hyde Park Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 0207563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

This family-friendly is dedicated to science and technology, including a Red Arrows 3-D simulator, and the IMAX theatre showing 3D science films. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sherlock Holmes Museum Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective, where he lived with Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904. It’s been maintained exactly as described in author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.

Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse was owned by the architect Sir John Soane and is untouched since being left to the nation in 1837. It houses his extraordinary collection of sculptures, prints and paintings, plus his own architectural drawings (view by appointment) and Hogarth’s satirical artworks. Please check for tours. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Candlelight opening 7 Nov, 6pm-9pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Wellcome Collection See hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body, including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome with eye-popping antique items of medical equipment. From 16 Nov: Ayurvedic Man: Encounters with Indian Medicine. Exhibition exploring the movement of medical knowledge across the continents (p. 40). Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours The venue of the famous championships displays old trophies, rackets and recent champions’ kits, plus touch screens to watch past greats in action. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child with every full price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

Galleries Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 28 Jan 2018: Basquiat: Boom for Real. The UK’s first major exhibition of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a self-taught street artist from New York who died in 1988 aged 28. To 7 Jan 2018: John Akomfrah – Purple. An immersive six-channel video installation about climate change. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, designed by Sir John Soane and founded in 1811, holds a great collection of Old Masters. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £7; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery. org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.

Somerset House This neo-classical 18th-century building on the Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery. From 8 Nov: North: Fashioning Identity. How photographers and designers portrayed 20th-century life in the North of England (p. 14). Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

Twinings Museum

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century, plus Rachel Whiteread’s celebrated artwork, Place (Village). To 25 Feb 2018: Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in Stories. The life and works of one of Britain’s bestloved writers, displaying his manuscripts, photos and a life-size puppet of Joey from the stage musical War Horse. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Health benefits In an era when we are attuned to the health-giving properties of less conventional remedies, the Wellcome Collection’s exhibition Ayurvedic Man: Encounters with Indian Medicine (from 16 Nov) is timely. It centres on the venue’s 18th-century painting Ayurvedic Man, an anotated anatomical drawing, and is accompanied by correspondence between Henry Wellcome and his purchasing agent Dr Paira Mall during his trip to India in 1911. See centuries-old Sanskrit and Tibetan medical manuscripts, erotic manuals and surgical tools that bring to life this ancient form of healing, which is still relevant in Asia and around the world today.

ayurveda image © wellcome lirbary

The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a tiny exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

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AYURVEDA IMAGE © WELLCOME LIRBARY

Evening Standard

Until 10 December 2017 Free entry for Friends of the RA Sponsored by

Jasper Johns, Fool’s House (detail), 1962. Oil on canvas with broom, sculptural towel, stretcher and cup. 182.9 x 11.4 cm. Private collection, on loan to Walker Art Center, Minneapolis © Jasper Johns / VAGA, New York / DACS, London 2017. Exhibition organised by the Royal Academy of Arts, London in collaboration with The Broad, Los Angeles.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Guildhall Art Gallery

National Portrait Gallery

The City of London’s art collection, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces, plus a Roman Amphitheatre. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

Telling the history of Britain throughout portraiture, this is one of London’s pre-eminent art museums. To 11 Feb: Cezanne’s Portraits. Works by the French master, some displayed here for the first time. From 16 Nov: Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize. The finalists of this important annual competition. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular evening events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg. org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Founded in 1946, this includes an exhibition of contemporary art, a café/bar, bookshop and art-house cinema. This gallery supports radical art and culture through a vibrant programme of exhibitions, films, events, talks and debates. Galleries daily 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Charing Cross.

The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with works by Western European masters, plus tours and talks. To 7 May: Drawn in Colour: Degas from the Burrell. Works by the French Impressionist. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4. www. thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery Gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace with temporary exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection. To 12 Nov: Canaletto & the Art of Venice. Large-scale paintings, plus delicate pen-and-ink drawings and etchings depicting

18th-century Venice, by Canaletto and his leading contemporaries. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £11; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with Royal Academy Collection works in all media. To 12 Nov: Matisse in the Studio. A rare glimpse into the artist’s personal collection. To 10 Dec: Jasper Johns: ‘Something Resembling Truth’. See works by the prominent US artist, known for his use of iconography such as flags and targets. To 3 Jan 2018: Dalí / Duchamp. The surprising friendship and working relationship between the prominent surrealist artists. Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building in Chelsea. Exhibitions are usually free. From 16 Nov: Art Riot: Post-Soviet Actionism. Russian protest art over the past 25 years (p. 37). To 7 Jan 2018: Iconoclasts: Art out of the Mainstream. Group show. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern and contemporary exhibitions. To 4 Feb 2018: Wade Guyton: Das New Yorker Atelier, Abridged. The artist uses digital technology to create large-scale works. TueSun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including a Turner collection. From 2 Nov: Impressionists in London, French Artists in Exile. How the artists who fled the war coped with life and the art scene in London (p. 36). To 21 Jan 2018: Rachel Whiteread. Vast sculptural works by the prominent British artist. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

It takes two The artistic pairing of Gilbert and George is part of the very fabric of London’s art scene; their works are anti-establishment – even anti-art. This duo are rarely seen apart – even in the Spitalfields café where they have breakfast every morning. At the White Cube gallery, Gilbert & George: The Beard Pictures and their Fuckosophy (from 22 Nov) celebrates 50 years since they began making art after meeting at college. They have often appeared in their own works, as in The Beard Pictures, where their blank stares peer out (above). 144–152 Bermondsey St, SE1 3TQ. T: 020-7930 5373. www.whitecube.com. F11. Station: Borough/London Bridge

World-class collection of international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. From 8 Nov: Red Star Over Russia: A Revolution in Visual Culture 1905-55. Soviet art (p. 37). From 23 Nov: Modigliani. A retrospective of the 20th-century artist, including the nudes banned in 1917. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery showcasing contemporary art. To 21 Jan 2018: Thomas Ruff. Photographs by the German artist addressing themes such as cosmology, utopianism, catastrophe, suburbia and nudity, ranging from 1979 right up to the present. Tue-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

beardout 2016 © gilbert & George courtesy of white cube

Tate Modern

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beardout 2016 © gilbert & George courtesy of white cube

Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Fall in love with Wimbledon

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southﬁelds The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE Supported by

T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

New Virtual Reality experience

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Dude looks like a lady Wigs, glitter and sequins go hand-in-hand with West End musicals, but this month two new shows, based on true stories, also require size-11 high heels, says Sarah Riches Sixteen-year-old Jamie lives on a council estate in Sheffield in the North of England. His father has left and he’s about to take his GCSE exams. He also has a secret – which, with the support of his mum, he shares. That secret became a documentary, which was seen by a theatre director and turned into a musical at Sheffield’s Crucible Theatre – and now the coming-of-age story Everybody’s Talking About Jamie has transferred to the Apollo Theatre in the West End (from 6 Nov; p. 46). Theatre producer Nica Burns says: ‘Everybody seemed to be talking about the show so I went to see the final matinee in Sheffield with no expectations. I came out of the auditorium singing the tunes, having laughed, cried and laughed again, dancing with happiness. I found the director and immediately offered to produce the show in London at one of my theatres. It had to come to the West End. This is an uplifting musical for our times. It’s a musical for everyone.’ Directed by Jonathan Butterell, the comical show features a band on stage playing catchy new songs by The Feeling’s lead

singer-songwriter, Dan Gillespie Sells, and Tom MacRae, who’s written for TV’s Doctor Who and Casualty. John McCrea reprises the role of Jamie, who challenges prejudice, beating the bullies and letting the real Jamie shine. Jamie may have felt alone but the Young Vic’s How to Win Against History (from 30 Nov; p. 46) shows he isn’t. The humorous costume drama tells the true tale of Henry Cyril Paget, a flamboyant aristocrat born in the late 1800s. Against his family’s wishes, the fifth marquis of Anglesey spent all of his inheritance on staging lavish parties and extravagant productions in

which he starred as the lead – before he was forced to declare himself bankrupt. Dubbed the ‘dancing marquis’ because of his penchant for snake-like dances, he loved wearing elaborate costumes of fur, jewellery and high heels. Directed by Alex Swift and written, composed by and starring Seiriol Davies as the marquis, this run at the Young Vic follows a stint at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe in 2016 and a UK tour. If these new shows have got you in the mood for thigh-high red glittery footwear, then watch Kinky Boots (p. 46), which has been entertaining audiences in the West End for the past two years. Also based on a true story, the West End musical follows a struggling shoe factory which turns its fortunes around once crossdresser Lola helps the boss to realise there’s a market for stiletto boots for men. Directed by Jerry Mitchell (Legally Blonde, Hairspray), the family-friendly show features tunes by the Grammy and Tony Award-winner Cyndi Lauper. Like the boots themselves, it’s a glittering performance.

How To Win Against History © damien Frost; Kinky Boots © Darren bell; Everybody’s Talking About Jamie © Johann persson

Clockwise from this image: How to Win Against History; Kinky Boots; Everybody’s Talking About Jamie

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie From 6 Nov: A new musical based on a true story, about a 16-year-old living on a council estate in Sheffield who has a secret. If you like Billy Elliot, you’ll love this (p. 44). MonSat 7.30pm; some Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£85. www.apollo theatrelondon.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Exorcist The cult classic horror story, based on the 1971 novel and William Friedkin’s 1973 film of the same name, receives its West End premiere. Mon-Thur & Sat 8pm; Fri 6pm & 9pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £31.30£93.80. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

42nd Street

Shakespeare fans are in for a treat as the Barbican hosts the Royal Shakespeare Company’s season Rome MMXVII (from 6 Nov; p. 50). Angus Jackson directs Coriolanus and Julius Caesar, while Iqbal Khan directs Antony & Cleopatra and Blanche McIntyre directs Titus Andronicus. Jackson says: ‘Shakespeare’s four Rome plays are a wonderful concoction of stories about power: physical power, sexual power and intellectual power. These plays are so relevant to today’s political and personality-led world that they don’t need to make a claim for their currency.’

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet. Just how do they do that? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £37.50-£97.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

An American in Paris Originally a jazz number written in 1928 by the American composer George Gershwin and then an Oscar-winning film of the same name in 1951, An American in Paris follows an American World War II veteran who falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. But will she marry him, or his friend? MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50£125. www.anamericaninparisthemusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Annie Revival of the popular story set in America’s Great Depression of the 1930s, about Annie, a girl in an orphanage who gets a chance to spend Christmas with a millionaire. But evil manager Hannigan (played by Craig Revel Horwood most nights) has other ideas. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur, Sat & Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£110. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Big Fish the Musical From 1 Nov: Meet Edward Bloom, played by the Emmy, Tony and Golden Globe Awardwinner Kelsey Grammer. An ordinary man, and an extraordinary father. He has always told his son tall tales filled with beauty, love and imagination but when his son confronts him about what is truth and what is fiction, they go on a life-affirming journey that will change them forever (p. 50). Please check for prices. Tickets £27.50-£35. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. Off map. Station: St James’s Park/Victoria.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park,, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards, including best new musical. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £32-£200. www. bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Dreamgirls TV star Amber Riley (Glee) stars as Effie White in this popular musical about a young female singing trio from Chicago trying to succeed in the crazy world of showbusiness. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

How to Win Against History From 30 Nov: This comical costume drama, a cult hit from the Edinburgh Fringe, tells the true tale of Henry Cyril Paget, a flamboyant aristocrat born in the late 1800s (p. 44). Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Wed & Sat 2.45pm. Tickets £10-£25. www.young vic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 0207452 3000. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper (p. 44). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.75-£127.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film with puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £47.70-£167.50. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Experience the joy of Disney’s award-winning musical The Lion King

ROME © HELEN MAYBANKS;THE LION KING © DISNEY

Power play

Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza. Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams who’s stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady Dorothy Brock (Sheena Easton) gets injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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ENTERTAINMENT Mamma Mia!

Wicked

A long-running tribute to the music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£102.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Spectacular set and costumes (p. 50). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical

Plays A Christmas Carol From 18 Nov: Matthew Warchus directs Charles Dickens’ timeless classic about a miser in this new adaptation by Jack Thorne. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£125. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, A Woman of No Importance Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and An earnest young American woman, The Temptations. By the end of an English lord and an innocent the night you’ll be Dancing in the The Phantom of the young chap join a house party. Street. Please check for times Opera’s make-up takes Nearby, a woman hides a longtwo hours to apply and prices. www.shaftesbury buried secret. Tickets £19.50-£55.50. and 30 minutes theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. to remove 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. Tottenham Court Road/Holborn. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/ Covent Garden. The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious Apologia masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please To 18 Nov: The Tony and Emmy check for times. Tickets £24.80-£97.50. www.the Award-winner Stockard Channing – best known phantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, as Rizzo in the 1978 musical Grease – is treading 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. the boards in a revival of Apologia. She stars as Station: Piccadilly Circus. Kristin, a liberal art historian who has recently published her memoirs. At a birthday party at School of Rock: The Musical Kristin’s cottage, cracks in her relationships Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the start to show as her friends and family begin film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’ll to question her achievements and whether they be a smash here, too. Please check for times. Tickets were worth the sacrifices she made. Please check £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New for times. Tickets £35-£95. www.atgtickets.com. London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. 7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Snowman

From 23 Nov: Now in its 20th hit year, this enchanting stage show of Raymond Briggs’ classic book tells the story of a boy and his magical snowman’s wintery wonderland adventure. Check for times. Tickets £15-£36. www.atgtickets.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wedding Reception 24-25 Nov: Will and Kate dreamt of having an intimate wedding reception – but their family had other ideas. As a guest, you’ll enjoy a threecourse dinner – and a hilarious improvised show. Enjoy! 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets £48.50. www.interactivetheatre.com.au. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. T: 0844-5154 4145. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Tue, Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm &

Dear Brutus From 29 Nov: 1917. In a remote English village there are rumours of an enchanted wood. One of the inhabitants – a mysterious old man – invites eight strangers to stay. They all have something in common. When, one evening, the wood miraculously appears the guests feel compelled to enter. What happens there has the power to change their lives forever. Written by JM Barrie, the writer of Peter Pan. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Doubt, a Parable From 2 Nov: In a land ravaged by war, Mother Courage pulls her cart with her three children in the wake of the army, trading with soldiers and attempting to make a profit from the war in what is widely considered to be one of the greatest plays of the 20th century. 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwark playhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sun 6pm; Sat-Sun 1pm. Please check for prices and venue. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Ferryman With a story by Jez Butterworth and direction by award-winning Sam Mendes, this play – which sold out at the Royal Court Theatre – is a huge hit. Set in Northern Ireland in 1981, it follows the Carney household as they prepare for a feast to celebrate the annual harvest. Things go awry when a visitor interrupts proceedings. Mon-Sat

Face the music Jazz legend Herbie Hancock and Cuban jazz pianist Alfredo Rodríguez are all set to play at EFG London Jazz Festival (10-19 Nov; p. 50), which turns 25 this year. International and British legends and emerging stars come together for a programme of events at Kings Place, Cadogan Hall, Ronnie Scott’s and the Barbican, among other top venues. Highlights include Guy Barker’s 42-piece orchestra at the festival’s opening gala concert at the Royal Festival Hall, and a screening of director John Scheinfeld’s documentary film about John Coltrane (right). All ages will be tapping their feet to the beat as there is even jazz for toddlers and family concerts.

john coltrane © chuck stewart

Matilda the Musical

7pm. Tickets £11.25-£73.75. www.thecomedy aboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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Starry night

To Pic p k

Kelsey Grammer (right) – star of the TV comedy series Frasier – is making his London stage debut in Big Fish the Musical at The Other Palace (from 1 Nov; p. 46). It’s not the first time he has starred in a major musical – he was nominated for a Tony Award for his role in Broadway’s La Cage aux Folles. While this musical is based on a novel of the same name by Daniel Wallace – which also spawned a 2003 film by Tim Burton – the plots differ somewhat. In this version, Edward Bloom (played by Grammer) is a travelling salesman who tells imaginative stories to his son Will.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Most tickets are sold out for part I and II of this latest instalment of JK Rowling’s Potter universe; please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Heisenberg: The Uncertainty Prinicple The creative team from The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time are behind this UK premiere about two strangers who meet by chance amid the bustle of a London train station, and see both their lives changed forever. MonSat 8pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50-£65. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Ink Fleet Street, 1969. A young and rebellious Rupert Murdoch asks the impossible and launches The Sun newspaper’s first editor’s quest: to give the people what they want. No matter the cost. MonSat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Labour of Love The world première of this James Graham play stars Martin Freeman and Tamsin Greig in a sharp political comedy about a Labour MP based in the North of England. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£95. www.delfontmackintosh. co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Lady from the Sea To 2 Dec: Kwame Kwei-Armah directs Ibsen’s

moving play about duty and self-determination. It follows Ellida, a lighthouse-keeper’s daughter, who is trapped in her marriage and longs for the sea. When a former lover returns from years

To 2 Dec: A new play based on the folk tale of the

adventures of England’s patron saint, about the search for nationhood in uncertain times. Directed by award-winner Lyndsey Turner. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Venus in Fur To 9 Dec: Enigmatic actress Vanda Jordan appears

unannounced for an audition with director Thomas Novachek. She’s determined to land the leading role in his new production – despite seeming wrong for the part. Over one evening in downtown Manhattan, their charged meeting becomes a seductive dance in this dark comedy. Patrick Marber directs. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£90. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 0207930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Woman in Black

of absence, she is forced to decide between freedom and the new life she has made for herself. Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oslo In 1993, in front of the world’s press, the leaders of Israel and Palestine shook hands on the lawn of the White House. Few watching would have guessed that the negotiations leading up to this iconic moment started secretly in a castle in the middle of a forest outside Oslo. Oslo tells the true story of two maverick Norwegian diplomats who coordinated top-secret talks and inspired seemingly impossible friendships. Their quiet heroics led to the groundbreaking Oslo Peace Accords, and this surprisingly riveting and funny play. Please check for times. Tickets £18-£87.50. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Play That Goes Wrong A drama society are putting on a 1920s murder mystery, but as the title suggests, everything that can go wrong... does. This slapstick comedy sees accident-prone thespians battle to make it through to their final curtain call. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplay that goeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel comes dramatically alive in Stephen Mallatratt’s ingenious stage version. Now celebrating 28 terrifying years in the West End, Robin Herford’s gripping production is a brilliantly successful study in atmosphere, illusion and controlled horror. It is about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS EFG London Jazz Festival 10-19 Nov: Jazz legend Herbie Hancock, a big band and Cuban pianist are all set to play at EFG London Jazz Festival (p. 48), which turns 25 this year. International and British legends and emerging stars come together for a packed programme of events at Kings Place, Cadogan Hall, Ronnie Scott’s and the Barbican, among other top venues. As well as Hancock, major highlights include Guy Barker’s 42-piece orchestra at the festival’s opening gala concert at the Royal Festival Hall. Ben l’Oncle Soul will sing Frank Sinatra, while Abdullah Ibrahim and Hugh Masekela capture their days as The Jazz Epistles in 1950s South Africa. Check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Rome MMXVII From 6 Nov: Shakespeare fans are in for a treat this month as the Barbican hosts the Royal Shakespeare Company’s Rome season, following a successful run in Stratford in the summer. Angus Jackson, Blanche McIntyre and Iqbal Khan direct Coriolanus, Julius Caesar, Antony & Cleopatra and Titus Andronicus (p. 46). Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. D10. Station: Barbican.

Be spellbound by the musical Wicked, which is celebrating its 11th year (p. 48)

KELSEY GRAMMER COURTESY OF BIG FISH THE MUSICAL; WITCH COURTESY OF WICKED THE MUSICAL

7pm; Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £12-£94.50. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

Saint George and the Dragon

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THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

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ENTERTAINMENT

Child’s play

Kids’ Pick

Olivier-nominated show The Lorax is making a comeback at The Old Vic theatre (to 5 Nov), following a previous stint in 2015. Just like Dr Seuss’ 1971 children’s story of the same name, the play has a strong environmental message. It follows The Lorax, a bright orange woodland creature, who is driven from his home by the Once-ler, a green character intent on building factories and chopping down forests for financial gain until he finally sees the error of his ways. The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. www.oldvictheatre.com. F9. Station: Waterloo

Barbican 7-11 Nov: Notorious .The Famous Lauren Barri Holstein blurs the lines between live art, dance, theatre and fine art, interrogating representations of female subjectivity. Please check for times. Tickets £18. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

The Peacock To 11 Nov: Vamos Cuba! Cuban choreographer Nilda Guerra returns to London for this dance which blends salsa, rumba, cha-cha-cha and reggaeton with a live band led by Rodney Barreto. It’s set in the chaos of Havana airport, where families are parted, lovers reunited and dreams take flight. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£42. www.sadlers wells.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. 6-17 Nov: Untouchable. Hofesh Shechter’s first work for a major ballet company – a powerful piece for the corps de ballet – receives its first revival. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 0207304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

OPERA Barbican 18 Nov: Met Opera Live in HD: The Exterminating

Angel. British composer Thomas Adès (The Tempest) conducts the American premiere of his latest opera, a black comedy based on Luis Buñuel’s 1962 surrealist film. 5.55pm. Tickets £37. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

London Coliseum Glorious Covent Garden home to the English National Opera. Productions are sung in English. To 2 Dec: Aida. A timeless story of duty, love and betrayal amid the clash of war. Sharing the title role are two sopranos – Latonia Moore and Morenike Fadayomi – both of whom are making their English National Opera debuts.

Royal Festival Hall 1 Nov: Emerson String Quartet present a second

concert of Beethoven’s late quartets. 7.30pm. Tickets £10-£38. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. St Martin-inthe-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross. To 15 Nov: Rodelinda. When Grimoaldo takes Bertarido’s throne, Bertarido flees abroad, leaving behind his grieving wife Rodelinda. The usurper tries to force Rodelinda to love him, but when the exiled king returns in disguise, everyone is put to the test. One of Handel’s finest operas, Rodelinda is filled with intense drama told through ravishingly beautiful music. Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall Concert hall for regular recitals. 8 Nov: Doric String Quartet. As part of Wigmore Hall’s Haydn String Quartet Series, the Doric String Quartet unlocks the full ‘Storm and Stress’ energy and impassioned intensity of Op. 20 Nos. 4-6. 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£37. Please check for times and prices. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD

Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home. To 4 Nov: Les Vêpres Siciliennes. Verdi’s spectacular grand opera is conducted by Maurizio Benini. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club The Jazz Café opened in 1959 and has This live music and club specialises hosted icons from in jazz and funk. 13 Nov: A Night Ella Fitzgerald to of Motown. 26 Nov: Sgt Pepper’s Curtis Mayfield Lonely Hearts Club Band: A 50th

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 22 Nov: Guildhall Symphony Orchestra. Conducted

by Esa-Pekka Salonen & Adrian Leaper. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 4 Nov: Strauss Reflected. With improvised singing by Meeta Pandit accompanied by Hiren Chate on tabla. Hosted by Classic FM’s John Suchet. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall, home to the annual BBC Proms.

Anniversary Celebration. Please check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 2-3 Nov: John Bishop: Winging It. 12-19 Nov: Nitto ATP Finals 2017. 21 Nov: Queens of the Stone Age. 22 Nov: Depeche Mode. 23 Nov: Deep Purple. 24 Nov: Steps. 27-28 Nov: The Killers. 30 Nov: Elvis in Concert – Live on Screen. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

THE LORAX COURTESY OF THE OLD VIC; ROYAL ALBERT HALL COURTESY OF THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL

DANCE

Classical Spectacular. The most popular classical music show in the UK returns to the Royal Albert Hall with multi-coloured laser displays. Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.

16-19 Nov:

Visit the Royal Albert Hall for concerts

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THE LORAX COURTESY OF THE OLD VIC; ROYAL ALBERT HALL COURTESY OF THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 1-2 Nov: Yellowjackets. 8 Nov: Ronnie Scott’s 58th Birthday Charity Concert. 10-11 Nov: Manu Dibango & the Soul Makossa Gang. 24 Nov: Hamish Stuart Band. Please check for times, full listings and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 14, 15-16 & 23 Nov: Late-night jazz in the Elgar Room, the hall’s more intimate venue. 20 Nov: Let’s Face the Music: A Tribute to the Great Musicals. 26-27 Nov: Phil Collins: Not Dead Yet. Please check for times and prices. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Laika To 12 Nov: Laika, the space dog: the first living creature to orbit earth. That was in 1957. Today it’s 2057, and Sami lives with his mum. She’s an astronaut and she understands that there could be a better future out in space. But Sami’s life is down here. So now they must face the prospect of letting go, saying goodbye and – just like Laika – head off into the unknown. A moving sci-fi adventure, inventively and beautifully told using puppetry, movement and music. Suitable for six to 12 year olds. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£18. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Sleepyhead From 17 Nov: It’s been a long day for Dad and he can hardly keep his eyes open. All he wants is for Baby to go to sleep so he can catch up on a little shut-eye too. Dad’s usually got some tricks up his sleeve to help send Baby off to the Land of Nod. But tonight, Baby has other ideas. As soon as Dad’s out of the way, Baby gets his hands on the magic top hat, and when his friend Rabbit shows up, the fun and games really begin. Suitable for twos to five-year-olds. Please check for times. Tickets £11-£13. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Why the Whales Came 2-5 Nov: War Horse creator Michael Morpurgo is behind this performance about Gracie and Daniel, who have been forbidden to go near the mysterious Birdman but are intrigued by him. After being lost at sea and stranded on his tiny island, they begin to unravel the Birdman’s secrets to learn why the whales came to the island. Tickets £10-£13.50. Please check for times. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

Young Frankenstein The legendary filmmaker and comedian Mel Brooks brings this classic monster musical comedy to life on stage in an all-singing, all-dancing collaboration with the Tony Award-winning Broadway director and choreographer Susan Stroman. Suitable for all ages with parental guidance. Please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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shopping | THE GUIDE

Prepare to be dazzled

Top and bottom: Lynne MacLachlan’s designs Centre: two designs by Adrienn Pesti

Rings made of 3D-printed flowers, laser-cut rubber necklaces and polar bears encased in resin bangles are just some of the weird and wonderful things you’ll find at Dazzle (from 12 Nov), the largest exhibition of contemporary jewellery in Europe. Taking place at gallery@oxo on Bankside, the exhibition also features pieces made from more traditional materials such as precious metals. Dazzle rocked the jewellery world at its launch in Manchester in 1981, coining the term ‘contemporary jewellery’ and making it easy to access this most beautiful of wearable crafts. More than three decades later, the exhibition has gone from strength to strength, bringing together more than 4,000 hand-made items from British and international designers, plus bags, scarves and ceramics. With prices starting at £20 and going up into the thousands, the fair is perfect for those wanting a souvenir. Established names such as Sarah Pulvertaft, Jean Scott-Moncrieff and Grace Girvan are joined by rising stars fresh out of university, hand-picked from the 2017 graduate shows. Adrienn Pesti graduated from The Glasgow School of Art, one of the UK’s top places to study jewellery design; she uses industrial enamelling, laser-welded steel and silk clay to create pieces that look floral, until you get up close to them. With their bright colours and alien shapes, they’re intended to prompt conversation. Designers of all ages and at all stages of their careers are experimenting with techniques such as 3D printing. Lynne MacLachlan loves this way of working, using digital technology to create 3D-printed pieces of nylon mesh that she then dyes by hand. She explains: ‘I have a very experimental and explorative way of designing, with lots of models and prototypes being made before each design is finalised, making sure everything is exactly the right size for strength, comfort and aesthetics.’ Persuading people to take a chance on such an unusual material can be challenging, she says, but in the end it’s the feel of her pieces that wins customers over. It’s only then that they can ‘appreciate the lightness, tactility and vibrant colours the nylon offers’. Whether you want a piece to make a statement or something simple, you’re guaranteed to be dazzled. Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. www.dazzle-exhibitions.co.uk

images courtesy of dazzle

Hoping to find a unique souvenir to take home? Jo Caird looks at the largest jewellery show in Europe

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

Major Shopping Areas Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery as well as auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf A first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Map inset. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Street Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gabriel’s Wharf A small but charming wharf that’s home to some interesting craftspeople, from ceramicists to jewellers. You’ll also find restaurants including the nearby OXO Tower. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, this famous street still attracts a stylish crowd. Department store Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.

Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Savile Row

Food, glorious food The Food Halls at Harrods are justifiably renowned as one of London’s premier shopping destinations for food and drink. This autumn they’re getting even more luxurious, with the launch of the first phase of a major restoration project that sees the unveiling of a new Roastery and Bake Hall. The Roastery will offer 35 loose coffees at the counter, many of them grown exclusively for Harrods and roasted in store. Tea fans, meanwhile, will love the Tea Tailoring experience, where you can create your own blend to be kept on file for return visits. The Bake Hall will specialise in long-fermentation sourdough, baked in store with novel new flavours available each month, such as walnut and raisin rye.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason British institution. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods

One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Edwardian food and meat halls, fashion plus bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Seven Dials

House of Fraser

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design and the brand’s famous prints. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Selfridges Browse some of the finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade

Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

This Regency arcade runs from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. It is patrolled by beadles in traditional uniforms including top hats. www.burlington-arcade. co.uk. W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Christopher’s Place

John Lewis

Leadenhall Market

Home to an exciting mix of shops selling accessories, shoes, designer brands and more, plus London’s largest concentration of pavement dining. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Fashion, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the city, bustling with boutiques. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. T: 020-7621 0709. D11. Station: Monument.

In the heart of quirky Covent Garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage shops. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden. harrods © istock

images courtesy of dazzle

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

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SHOPPING

Kids’ stores The Disney Store Disney merchandise and interactive entertainment. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm (branches also in WC2 and W12). www.disneystore.co.uk. 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH. T: 020-7491 9136. D6. Station: Bond Street.

LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The gift of giving

The Nickelodeon Store

Malls & Factory Outlets Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

fashion Alexander McQueen

Hackett Polos, sporting jackets and cords, plus suits and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

River Island Stylish, affordable fashion for men, women and children. www.riverisland.com. 473 Oxford St, W1C 3AU. T: 0344-334 0506. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

leather & luggage Anya Hindmarch Luxurious leather goods ranging from wallets to evening bags (multiple locations). www.anya hindmarch.com. 118 New Bond St, W1S 1EW. T: 020-7493 1628. E7. Station: Bond Street.

Moynat The UK flagship of the Parisian luxury luggage and handbag brand. www.moynat.com. 112 Mount St, W1K 2TU. T: 020-7495 3885. E6. Station: Bond Street/Green Park.

specialist stores Buckingham Palace Shop

Jewellery & Watches

Royal souvenirs. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Harry Winston

Cath Kidston

The king of diamond jewellery in London for more than 80 years. 171 New Bond St, W1S 4RD. T: 020-7907 8800. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. Great for men and women’s jewellery, plus an engraving service. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Find jewellery and gifts, including Pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

A must for men’s and women’s fashions, this flagship boutique has the label’s signature skull scarves, as well as other accessories. www.alexandermcqueen. co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Tiffany & Co

Burberry

Wempe

Find the full Burberry London and runway collections here, including the classic trenches and raincoats (multiple locations around London). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

This world-renowned jeweller displays exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790. D10. Station: Bank. Grand, spacious setting for the luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Home to stylish accessories with London prints. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

John Bell & Croyden Emergency prescriptions and vaccinations, as well as specialist doctors. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing You can pick up a dazzling souvenir here, and try out a glassblowing session, too. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings Trading since 1706, you will find a variety of teas and infusions. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

shop interior © mark osborne photography

Famed retail consultant Mary Portas has opened the latest branch of her brand of upmarket charity shops, Mary’s Living & Giving Shop, in Bermondsey, close to the Fashion and Textile Museum. Stocked with luxury clothing and accessories donated by brands including Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen, it’s the 23rd branch that Portas has opened. Most high streets have charity shops – stores selling donated clothes, books and toys for good causes – but few have the glamour of Mary’s. Her brand has raised nearly £11 million for Save the Children. 90 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7407 3617. www.savethechildren.org.uk. F11. Station: Bermondsey/London Bridge

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mall, Dover Street Market stocks clothing, accessories and shoes from dozens of designer brands. Browse concessions from Paul Smith, Céline, Dior and Gucci, which feel like walk-in wardrobes. 18-22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG. T: 020-7518 0680. www.doverstreetmarket.com

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Hatton Garden

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SHOPPING ADVER TORIAL

FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576. By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased. The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth

and stature, but of love and affection. Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery. So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece! For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.

VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)

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SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles)

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Burberry is now one of Britain’s leading brands and is famous for its iconic trench coats and checked prints. The store also has stylish accessories, from bags to wallets. Visit the Knightsbridge store for a look at its latest autumn/ winter collection.

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Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. This autumn has seen the launch of two new delicious chocolate collections, including Truffle Delight and Gold Discovery, both of which S DN L G are presented in a beautiful box. L E CROMW Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com

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Shopping Essentials sizing guide US

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Tax-Free Shopping Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. C

carnaby street © istock; female shopper courtesy of westfield

CMY

Come and explore Hamleys Toy Shop! With over 50,000 Toys across 7 floors! Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT

www.hamleys.com/explore

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: Hélène Darroze; millefeuille at La Dame de Pic; Sarah Barber; Anne-Sophie Pic; innovative ordering system at The Connaught; Clare Smyth Below: ‘Jaffa Cake’ at Hotel Café Royale

Ladies who lunch Who said that restaurants are a man’s game? Trends in London’s dining scene, a notoriously male-dominated industry, indicate that things are changing. Recently we have seen an increasing number of female chefs and restaurateurs showing us that they, too, can stand the heat in the kitchen. Clare Smyth, who climbed the ranks at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay to become its chef patron, has opened Core in Notting Hill. Her fine dining British cuisine, focusing on a tasting menu, has already made an impression. ‘Brought up on a farm, you understand from an early age just how good our ingredients are and how important it is to support local producers,’ Smyth explains. ‘As chefs, we have access to some of the finest native produce in the world in Britain, and I want to continue to celebrate that in every menu’ (92 Kensington Park Rd, W11 2PN). At the Four Seasons hotel, La Dame de Pic also opened this year, with Anne-Sophie Pic at the helm. The first woman in France to hold four Michelin stars – the third in her family to do so – remembers when she told her father

that she wanted to be a chef. ‘He wept with happiness, though he did worry for me – he knew it was a hard, physical job,’ she said in a recent interview. The latest restaurant in her ‘Pic’ collection, and her first in the UK, brings out the ‘haute’ in haute cuisine and sets the scene for her French creations, which were awarded a Michelin star in October (Four Seasons Hotel at Ten Trinity Square, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ). Hélène Darroze is the grande dame of culinary excellence in London. The Frenchwoman comes from a line of chefs and is the UK’s only female double Michelinstarred patron chef. ‘So many people have played such an important role in influencing my career. It would certainly be my family, particularly my grandmothers – and chef Alain Ducasse,’ she explains, referring to the French chef with whom she perfected her culinary expertise.

Her eponymous fine dining restaurant, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught hotel, reflects her passion for food, and if the luxury ingredients with matching prices are too eye-watering, her three-course lunch menu is far more affordable (Carlos Place, W1K 2AL). Even if it’s not the time for three-course haute cuisine, there’s always time for dessert. At Hotel Café Royal, where the Papillon restaurant is known for its desserts, executive pastry chef Sarah Barber guarantees to put a smile on anyone with a sweet tooth. ‘It was time to give desserts a temple,’ she explains. Her creations include an elaborate ‘Jaffa Cake’ (a decadent chocolate slice with tangy orange jelly). She, too, credits her family for her success: ‘It was my grandfather, who was head chef at the hotel in the 1970s, that I have to thank. It was because of him I became a pastry chef, and the chef I am today’ (68 Regent St, W1B 4DY).

HÉLÈNE DARROZE IMAGES COURTESY OF THE CONNAUGHT; SARAH BARBER AND ‘JAFFA CAKE’ COURTESY OF HOTEL CAFÉ ROYALE; ANNE-SOPHIE PIC © CHAPUIS-PHOTO.COM; CLARE SMYTH © JOHN CAREY

In the male-dominated culinary world, women are finally getting their turn in the kitchen. Emma Levine meets the chefs and restaurateurs leading the trend in London

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81

AmericaS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary wining and dining, Manhattan-style. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat & Sun brunch; Sat D. www.avenue-restaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chiltern Firehouse This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes with a creative twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chilternfirehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Colony Grill Room The wood-panelled dining room evokes 1920s America, with US grill fare and hearty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrillroom.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street .

Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar, masterclasses and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is more than 40 years old, and has lots of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy its jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak Hou se Hippodrome Casino’s restaurant, over the main gaming floor, serves British classics and USDA beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodrome casino.com. 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Nestled behind the new One Tower Bridge development on the River Thames, the Welsh-born Tom Simmons has recently opened his first solo restaurant: Tom Simmons. The eponymous venue champions the chef’s homeland with its menu and décor, with starters such as deep-fried Welsh cockles with a laverbread mayonnaise, and mushroom croquettes with Parmesan aioli. The standout main has to be the meltin-the-mouth Welsh lamb, served with a smooth salsa verde. It’s a small venue on two levels, with homely touches such as an antique Welsh dresser, and a huge blackand-white photograph of the Welsh valleys dotted with sheep. 2 Still Walk, SE1 2RA. T: 020-3848 2100. www.tom-simmons.co.uk. F11. Station: London Bridge/Bermondsey

Oblix

Aviary

Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Smart restaurant with a rooftop terrace, serving hearty British dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.aviary london.com. Montcalm Royal London House hotel, 22-25 Finsbury Square, EC2A 1DX. T: 020-3873 4000. D10. Station: Liverpool Street/Moorgate.

Planet Hollywood

Butlers Restaurant

This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus movie memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planet hollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wolseley, located next to The Ritz hotel on Piccadilly, was once a car showroom

Jackson + Rye American diner-style dishes including weekend brunch, plus a great cocktail bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.jacksonrye.com. 56 Wardour St, W1D 4JG (and branches). T: 020-7437 8338. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. tom simmons dish © Tasos Gaitanos

A Welsh wizard

JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Lima Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Tue-Sun L; daily D. www.limalondon.com. 31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Rainforest Cafe

Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 0207434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London Dine on British and American prime steaks, with DJs playing nightly. ££££. Daily D. www.stkhouse.com. ME London Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 0207395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Top English cuisine in an elegant restaurant, famed for its roasts served from a carving trolley. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Caxton Grill Superb steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes, in a stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Cheneston’s Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

City Social

british (MODERN)

Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts a creative menu and city views. £££. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Aqua Shard

The Clove Club

Contemporary cuisine created from local produce matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

This Michelin-starred restaurant serves ambitious dishes such as Yorkshire suckling pig with Indian spices. £££. Tue-Sat L; Mon-Sat D. www.theclove club.com. Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St, EC1V 9LT. T: 020-7729 6496. Off map. Station: Hoxton. www.wheretraveler.com 63

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DINING Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Great Court Restaurant

Mews of Mayfair

The first London restaurant from the famous superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

An 18th-century mews house with a brasserie, lounge and cocktail bar, plus a cobbled courtyard. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Holborn Dining Room

Fera at Claridge’s

This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Ritz Restaurant

Indigo

Dine beside the Serpentine lake. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentine-barkitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Magpie

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar

Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes arriving to your table on trolleys, dim-sum style. Highly recommended. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and terrine boards. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteak house.co.uk. 311-313 Fulham Rd, SW10 9QH (and branch). T: 020-7352 0088. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

Rabbit

The Wolseley

Rex Whistler Restaurant Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque in a dining room with a whimsical century-old mural. There is an excellent wine list. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

St Pancras Grand This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves all-day British brasserie-style dishes. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 0207870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Although there are many informal, BYO (bring your own) restaurants in the capital, few match the cuisine at the new Go-Viet, from former Hakkasan chef Jeff Tan. This bijou, neon-lit restaurant among South Kensington’s smart townhouses showcases Tan’s sophisticated dishes: bí mât tomatoes (succulent plum tomatoes marinated for 10 hours in 10 Vietnamese herbs), plump Chilean sea bass on a crisp, coconut-tinged pancake, and a rich barbecued chicken dish in a sizzling earthenware pot. Try the many varieties of pho – the traditional noodle dish with a base of 16 hour-boiled bone marrow beef broth. 53 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3JS. T: 020-7589 6432. www.vietnamfood. co.uk. G5. Station: South Kensington

Serpentine Bar & Kitchen

All-day restaurant serves excellent British dishes that are entirely gluten and dairy-free. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

‘Farm to fork’ concept at this meat-rich menu, including venison ‘cigars’. £££. Mon D; Tue-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.rabbit-restaurant.com. 172 King’s Rd, SW3 4UP. T: 020-3750 0172. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Vietnamese with a get-go

Enjoy classic British dishes, including beef Wellington and steamed lobster, in a pretty dining room, with top-notch service. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritz london.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Tom’s Kitchen Delightful all-day brasserie from award-winning chef Tom Aikens, serving modern comfort food. ££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk. 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 020-7349 0202. Off map. Station: South Kensington.

british (traditional) Café in the Crypt This vaulted café in the church serves homely English dishes, such as fish and chips, and pies. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

The English Grill Restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings, serving daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace hotel, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

Hawksmoor Borough The latest outlet of the British steak specialist O in a former hops warehouse in Borough Market, serving excellent grass-fed beef and sustainable seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.thehawksmoor.com. 16 Winchester Walk, SE1 9AQ. T: 020-7234 9940. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast, plus a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan Michelin-starred restaurant serving fusion and traditional dishes. £££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Nanyang chilli lobster. Highly recommended. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kai mayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Mei Ume Plush restaurant serving Chinese and Japanese cuisine, with menus comprising sushi, dim sum and Peking duck. ££££. Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Min Jiang Take in the glorious park views while dining on Sichuan cuisine and dim sum. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 0207361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

image courtesy of go-viet

Enjoy creative British dishes made from local and organic ingredients, served in a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. Try raw Dexter beef with smoked cauliflower, sweet cicely and shiso, or roasted monkfish with Fowey mussels, courgette and lemon balm. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING Royal China Club

Galvin at Windows

Ting

This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum, served at lunchtime, plus crispy duck. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Michelin-starred restaurant on the 28th floor, with great views over the city. £££. MonFri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 0207208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La hotel serves European dishes with an Asian twist. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Yauatcha

The Ivy

Fish and Seafood

Alan Yau’s award-winning Soho restaurant offers excellent dim sum, macarons and an extensive range of tea, wine and cocktails. £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha.com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL. T: 020-7494 8888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

This fashionable venue is perfect for a late-night dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ (and branch). T: 0207836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Contemporary European

Modern European dishes are given an Asian twist at Gordon Ramsay’s award-winning restaurant, complete with sushi bar. £££. Daily L & D. www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/maze. 10-13 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP. T: 020-7592 1373. E6. Station: Bond Street.

1 Lombard Street Enjoy hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Bibendum Newly refurbished and now with Claude Bosi at the helm, this long-established restaurant has fine dining upstairs and an oyster bar on the ground floor. £££. Wed-Sat D; oyster bar daily L, Mon-Sat D. www.bibendum.co.uk. 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 6RD. T: 020-7581 5817. G5. Station: South Kensington.

The Delaunay This Theatreland venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. Specialities include kedgeree, schnitzels and Frankfurter sausages. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Maze

Mere Le Gavroche chef Monica Galetti’s first solo restaurant brings a touch of her Samoan roots to this sophisticated venue, with tasting menus. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mere-restaurant.com. 74 Charlotte St, W1T 4QH. T: 020-7268 6565. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

OXO Tower Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning views. £££. Daily L & D. www.oxotower.co.uk. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Skylon Stylish dining with river views, serving dishes such as spiced duck breast. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylonrestaurant.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Fancy Crab Crab connoisseurs are in the right place, and once you’ve sampled this new restaurant’s menu you’ll be dreaming of claws. Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab fettucine and crab burger. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.

J Sheekey Chic and popular seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne bar, plus seasonal game – great for people-watching. ££££. Daily L & D. www.jsheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Shell Co Dine on a canal boat on a five-course menu, with delicacies such as cured Dorset char. Diners share tables. Dinner includes a cruise. £££. Wed-Fri L & D. www.londonshellco.com. Sheldon Square, W2 6EP. T: 07818-666 005. Off map. Station: Paddington.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop with vintage décor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sea Shell Enjoy hearty fish and chips, or pan-seared king scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Innovative food from this world-famous Michelinstarred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Aubaine The first in the chain, Aubaine is a cosmopolitan bistro with all-day dining on dishes such as moules marinière. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.

Bistrot de Luxe

As part of a major refurbishment at Dukes Hotel, a boutique establishment nestled in the heart of gracious Mayfair, its all-day restaurant GBR (Great British Restaurant) has made the most of its facelift. Previously known as Thirty-Six, its head chef Nigel Mendham creates flawless British dishes: steak and kidney pie, rump of lamb with spiced tomato jam, and a Scotch egg with venison and black pudding. The new-look dining room has a classic feel, with bags of natural light from its front windows, pale bucket chairs and simple chandeliers. It’s comforting and relaxing, and looking better than ever. Dukes Hotel, 36 Little St James St, SW1A 1NS. T: 020-7491 4840. www.gbrrestaurantslondon.com. E7. Station: Green Park

Blanchette Lively, rustic bistro serving simple and inventive French food. Excellent charcuterie plates, and confit duck leg. ££. Daily L & D. www.blanchettesoho.co.uk. 9 D’Arblay St, W1F 8DR. T: 020-7439 8100. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Brasserie Joël This smart brasserie serves French classics. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.

gbr courtesy of dukes hotel

Brilliantly British

This classic Parisian-style restaurant from the Galvin brothers serves superb, classic dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

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gbr courtesy of dukes hotel

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie serving excellent value prix-fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Céleste

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Enjoy Michelin-starred French cuisine in a smart dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 0207259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room with a cherry blossom-adorned conservatory. There is an outstanding wine list. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Club Gascon Imaginative Michelin-starred cuisine from southwest France, plus an award-winning wine list. £££££££. Tue-Fri L; Tue-Sat D. www.clubgascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

L’Escargot London’s oldest French restaurant, which was established in 1927, has classic delicacies such as steak tartare and Grand Marnier souffle. ££. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L. www.lescargot.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Le Pont de la Tour

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA L A ZO N E .CO M

Stunning riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes in a 19th-century former tea warehouse, with a terrace and views of Tower Bridge. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepontdelatour.co.uk. 36d Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 020-7403 8403. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Sketch Multiple restaurants under one roof, including a stylish brasserie with artwork by David Shrigley, serving French-European cuisine. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gastropubs The Eagle One of London’s first gastropubs, this rustic venue serves superior dishes such as roast pork belly and grilled scallops, with a menu that changes daily. £££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeagle farringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Fox & Anchor A traditional British pub with cosy corners and a great seasonal menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.fox andanchor.com. 115 Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AA. T: 020-7250 1300. D9. Station: Barbican.

The Grazing Goat All-day dining, with delicious seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room above a traditional bar, with top-quality British produce. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria. www.wheretraveler.com 67

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DINING

Time for tea For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

This cosy, informal restaurant near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in traditional Bengali cuisine, including prawn curry. ££. Daily L & D. www.little indialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

The Wigmore

In this chain of newly-refurbished restaurants, enjoy Indian street food, plus the flavour-packed grand thali. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by Michel Roux Jr, in a refurbished bar with high ceilings and original Art Deco features. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore. co.uk. 15 Langham Place, off Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Indian Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its open grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at the Lalit London

Le Méridien Piccadilly You can’t get a more central location than Le Méridien Piccadilly – a century-old hotel that’s colonnaded and classic on the outside, and contemporary and chic inside. The smart Terrace Grill & Bar is the delightful venue for your afternoon tea (above) – a light-filled glass-and-steel canopy with views of busy Piccadilly. Choose from its classic tea, with coronation chicken on Mediterranean bread, and unusual treats such as grilled vegetables and tapenade on basil bread. If you have younger guests, they might opt for the Jungle afternoon tea, inspired by characters from The Jungle Book. They can feast on tiger bread sandwiches in honour of Shere Khan, and Baloo the Bear’s rainbow fruit skewers. 21 Piccadilly, W1J 0BH. T: 020-7734 8000. www.terracegrillandbar.com

Royal Garden Hotel Whatever the season, the view of Kensington Gardens is sublime. At the Royal Garden Hotel, take tea in the Park Terrace restaurant where, in addition to finger sandwiches, you’ll find that the raisin and cinnamon scones are a delightful twist on the usual fare. If you want to upgrade to the Royal Tea, in addition to a glass of Champagne you can also enjoy strawberries with vintage balsamic drizzle. 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 0207937 8000. www.royalgardenhotel.co.uk

The Rubens Your view for tea at The Rubens at the Palace is Buckingham Palace’s Royal Mews – quite appropriate as it was Queen Anne who ‘invented’ the concept of afternoon tea in the early 19th century. Here, be decadent with the Royal Tea, comprising sandwiches of Arbroath smokie and beef fillet with horseradish, plus orange-scented scones and coronation tart with pistachio and raspberry. 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. www.rubenshotel.com

Little India

Majestic Indian restaurant in this five-star hotel in a Grade II-listed Victorian building. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Benares Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant. £££. Mon-Sat L & D, Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Bombay Palace The cuisine at this well-established restaurant is a cut above. Try the Goan fish curry, or fiery chicken kolhapuri. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.bombaypalace.co.uk. 50 Connaught St, W2 2AA. T: 020-7723 8855. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka Bar. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutney mary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord Iconic Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, serving North Indian dishes including sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gymkhana Inspired by colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant has sophisticated dishes such as pork cheek vindaloo and guinea fowl pepper fry. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhana london.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 0203011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Khan’s of Kensington This relaxed restaurant serves a selection of dishes including Malabar fish curry and Kashmiri lamb korma. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington. co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for dishes with French-Creole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.laportedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Masala Zone

Memories of India Enjoy tandoori grills and spicy seafood from all over India, with specialities including lamb boti kebab. It’s close to the museums and the Royal Albert Hall. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesof india.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 0207589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary dishes in a stylish restaurant; try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind In the smart Mayfair dining room, enjoy Michelinstarred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelinstarred, has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six-hour cooked lamb shank. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 0207734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

International Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat and fish at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini and Sunday roasts. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

SushiSamba Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian fusion cuisine at this rooftop terrace with 360-degree views across the capital. Try the ‘anticuchos’ skewers cooked over a traditional robata grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0203640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Italian Bocca di Lupo Simple, homely restaurant serving regional Italian cuisine, such as chicken scallopini with girolles and tagliatelle with duck ragú. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.boccadilupo.com. 12 Archer St, W1D 7BB. T: 020-7734 2223. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

afternoon tea courtesy of le mÉridien piccadilly

The Wells This bright and airy pub near Hampstead Heath serves top-quality, seasonal British cuisine in a friendly yet sophisticated environment. £££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

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afternoon tea courtesy of le mÉridien piccadilly

Cicchetti All-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mayfair Pizza Co Bright, airy restaurant where you can watch the chefs in the open-plan kitchen with a rustic pizza oven. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfairpizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rossopomodoro Enjoy Neapolitan food in an informal setting. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Verdi – Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the famous music venue – check for Free Friday Music ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

japanese & korean Benihana Chefs create delicious griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the hibachi prawn. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts for you to choose from. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Inamo Funky pan-Asian restaurant, serving dishes to share such as Singapore noodles and crispy duck in five spice, plus sushi. £££. Mon-Wed D; Thur-Sun L & D. www.inamo-restaurant.com. 11-14 Hanover Place, WC2E 9JP (and branches). T: 020 7484 0500. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

RESTAURANT AND BAR Harvesting Red King Crab since 1993

Nobu Delicious sashimi, sushi and tempura from the acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Onodera This sleek, subterranean Mayfair restaurant has top-notch sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E6. Station: Green Park.

Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece grill serves contemporary Japanese ’robatayaki’ cuisine (cooked over fire). Try the tasting menu. £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com. 30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF (and branches). T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Try the king of the crab world from £12 only.

Tokimeite

Always wild, never farmed.

Enjoy superior cuisine with dishes such as fried lotus root stuffed with prawns, plus an extensive sake, shochu and whisky menu. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.tokimeite.com. 23 Conduit St, W1S 2XS. T: 020-3826 4411. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

THE WORLD’S MOST ELEGANT SHELLFISH

92 Wigmore St, London W1U 3RD Tel: 0203 096 9484 fancycrab.co.uk

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DINING

Middle Eastern, Greek & Turkish

riverside

Elysee

Enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. Booking essential. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

Since 1936, this family restaurant has been serving great Greek dishes. There is a shisha lounge and late licence. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi Innovative Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi, with seasonal dishes to share in an informal space. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Yasmeen Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

Yosma Turkish cuisine in this bright and informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish and meat dishes from the Josper grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Bateaux London

The London Showboat

Mango Tree This elegant fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka and grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Rosa’s Thai Café

Drift down the River Thames while enjoying dinner. Booking essential. ££££. Departs daily Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

At this informal venue in Carnaby, enjoy spicy dishes from papaya salad to drunken noodles. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches). T: 020-7287 9617. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

RS Hispaniola

Thai Pot

Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British dishes. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

south East Asian Chi Kitchen

This popular spot offers a huge range of goodvalue, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Spanish El Pirata

Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an openplan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Choose from a large range of authentic hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, including cured meats and fresh seafood. There are good set menus. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata. co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

House of Ho

Iberica Victoria

Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional Vietnamese cuisine. Try the seafood pho. ££. Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Traditional Spanish dishes are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish restaurant; try the wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro. co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 0207833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

Vegetarian The Gate Latest branch of the well-known veggie restaurant, with Indian and Middle Eastern influences, and dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds This informal Soho institution has hearty meatfree dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie and Vietnamese mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The iconic American restaurant Joe Allen has recently relocated but has lost none of its showbusiness sparkle in the move. Theatreland actors and producers have been singing its praises since 1977, and they won’t be disappointed to find that nothing has changed: the dark brick walls are covered with show posters, the atmosphere is buzzing and there’s still a pianist playing in the background. The set menu is great value; for under £20, take your pick from favourites such as salmon fishcake, chilli with sour cream and the moreish chocolate brownies – and see if you can spot a few stars, too. 2 Burleigh St, WC2E 7PX. T: 020-7836 0651. www.joeallen.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Charing Cross

Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Tasty cuisine from India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Taking centre stage

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

best of london dining Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store Harrods, in Knightsbridge South West London. Serving tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as Black Truffle Sour Soup and Chilean Sea Bass Dumpling with Gold Leaf, as well as luxury main dishes including Beijing Duck and Wagyu Steak. Chai Wu is a premium venue in luxury setting, perfect for private dining or an important business meeting and ensures an unforgettable dining experience. Mon–Sat noon–9pm (last order 8:30pm); Sun noon–6pm (last order 5.15pm).

Mango Tree

Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Mango tree, an award-wining Thai restaurant in Belgravia, London. The unique and spacious venue, perfect for a wide range of events and celebrations. Whether it’s a wedding reception, cocktail party, birthday or Christmas corporate event, you can be assured that mango tree will offer an authentic Thai experience in a luxurious modern setting, with the warm hospitality for which we are known. Mention “where” when book your party Christmas party with us and get exclusive 10% off your total bill. Mon-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvernor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a woman. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry. As well as this, we pride ourselves in traditional home-style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open seven days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon-11.30pm and Sunday noon-11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.

El Pirata

32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476/020-7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com. Station: Gloucester Road

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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nightlife | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: The Old Bank of England; The George Inn, Gordon’s Wine Bar; The George Inn

Perfect pints There are plenty of cool craft beer pubs and sophisticated cocktail bars in London, but the city also excels in traditional pubs, with age-old stone walls and cosy Victorian snugs that are perfect for chilly evenings. Relax in a bar where the likes of William Shakespeare and Charles Dickens supped ale, and soak up centuries of history. ‘Would I were in an alehouse in London! I would give all my fame for a pot of ale, and safety,’ as Shakespeare wrote in Henry V. It’s possible he was referring to his experience of The George Inn (p. 73), an Elizabethan pub in a cobbled courtyard, close to where the playwright lived in Southwark. Many other famous names drank here, too, including Geoffrey Chaucer and Sir Winston Churchill. The original inn burnt down in 1676 and was quickly rebuilt – it’s the one you see today. This is London’s last remaining galleried inn, and is now owned by the National Trust. Its wood-panelled interior, oak beams and outdoor seating area, where the horse-drawn coaches would have pulled up, draw in many after-work locals for a pint of real ale.

Glamorous and grisly history meet at The Old Bank of England. The bank traded here for 87 years until 1975, after which it was bought by a London brewing company that restored the building to its former glory. It is also on the site of the infamous barbershop

owned by Sweeney Todd – the Demon Barber of Fleet Street – and Mrs Lovett’s Pie Shop. With a humorous nod to its past, the pub serves pies today, including the safer filling of steak and ale, but it’s the ornate main bar that is the real draw, with its elaborate dark wood fittings, high ceilings and walls lined with old prints. Below lie the original vaults which housed some of the Crown Jewels during World War I (194 Fleet St, EC4A 2LT). At the family-owned Gordon’s Wine Bar (p. 74), you can forget the beer; dating back to 1890, it’s thought to be London’s oldest wine bar. Only flickering candles on rickety wooden tables light the labyrinthine brick-walled cellar. Choose from fortified wines from wooden casks behind the bar – perhaps a sherry or a Madeira – or from a lengthy wine list chalked up on the blackboard, which ranges from South American labels to biodynamic merlots and chilled port. There are literary connections here, too: Samuel Pepys lived in the building during the 1680s and, in the room above, Rudyard Kipling wrote The Light That Failed, published in 1890.

The Old Bank of England courtesy of the old bank of england; Gordon’s Wine Bar courtesy of Gordon’s wine bar; The George Inn images © National trust

As the evenings draw in, it’s time to visit one of London’s cosy pubs, where you can enjoy a classic pint of beer in historic surroundings, says Emma Levine

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Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81

Traditional Pubs The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. 22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative, bohemian types love this quirky pub in the heart of Soho. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses (p. 72). www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores

Waxy O’Connor’s

Booking Office Bar

Huge, long-standing Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It shows Ireland’s major sporting events on big screens. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Burlock

This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older. Enjoy a pint of ale and some simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in this relaxed bar that specialises in cocktails. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Bars & Clubs

At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 0203441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with cocktail and wine bars. Wines from unusual destinations, including Uruguay, with all bottles at just £20. There’s also a nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Back Room

BYOC

Cartizze Bar Timeless luxury Bellini and cocktail destination with Art Deco surroundings. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by The Beatles. Enjoy pizzas, cocktails and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

This cellar bar is the UK’s first dedicated cava venue. Enjoy tapas sharing platters. 33 Blackfriars Lane, EC4V 6EP. 020 7125 0930. www.cava.co.uk. B7. Station: Blackfriars.

The Bar at Bellamy’s

City Social

This relaxed, comfortable setting is decorated with vintage ski posters, for cocktails and wine. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk. 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

The bar adjacent to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and great views. www.citysocial london.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with dark wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, and the beer is good quality and inexpensive. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Camino Bankside

Top Pick

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. It’s a friendly venue, with great Young’s ales and bar food, plus the Guinea Grill inside serving its famous steak pies. www.theguinea. co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Street.

The Magpie & Stump chino latino courtesy of park plaza london riverbank

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant has a wide variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at this historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Time for tequila The tall atrium at Chino Latino, the bar in the Park Plaza London Riverbank hotel, gives you an immense feeling of space, but it’s the new tequila and cachaça cocktails that may leave your head spinning. The bar, and its adjacent restaurant, have sweeping views of the Thames and a slick glass-and-steel interior. The ‘Latino’ in the name is a reference to South America-inspired cocktails; try the mezcal (a smoky tequila) cocktail with orange bitters and vanilla syrup, or the chilli and ginger caipirinha. The bar proves that fusion really does work, with an Asian-inspired bar menu full of flavour-packed small plates. Park Plaza London Riverbank, 18 Albert Embankment, SE1 7TJ. T: 020-7769 2500. www.chinolatino.eu. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North www.wheretraveler.com 73

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NIGHTLIFE C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery, and offers tastings, classes and tours. www.cityoflondondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style tapas bar that serves rare sherries, aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, natural wines and a selection of Andalucian tapas dishes. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Experimental Cocktail Club

Gong

This bar in an old Chinatown townhouse is tucked away but well worth the search for its stylish cocktails. A £5 cover charge is payable at the door after 11pm. Email booking is highly recommended. www.experimentalcocktail clublondon.com. 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Freedom

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its stone-arched basement. It gets very busy in the evening (p. 72). www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gordon’s Wine Bar

Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an exquisite 18th-century chandelier set the tone for fine wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mewsof mayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails plus bar food. www.opiumchinatown.com. Reservations recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 0207734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live jazz and blues most nights. Beautiful interiors and drinks to match. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy a range of cocktails at this laid-back bar, which has free live music every night. www.primo bar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine former abode of the good Reverend, as proved by the blue plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after the cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails and Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood Hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

Searcys Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the train station, has a huge selection of bubbly, plus seafood platters. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras. 74 W H E R E Lo n d o n I NO V E M B E R 2017

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NIGHTLIFE Six Storeys

The 100 Club

Stringfellows

Decadent bohemian bar in a Soho townhouse, split over six levels. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Famous basement music venue with rock and blues bands, plus DJ and club nights. www.the100 club.co.uk. 100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Trader Vic’s

Ronnie Scott’s

Over the years, a vast number of celebrities and members of the public have enjoyed a memorable evening of entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s world-famous gentlemen’s club and restaurant, located close to Leicester Square in the heart of the capital. Make sure that you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining, and the food here is impressive – try the 28-day dry-aged Aberdeen Angus steaks or grilled cod with caper sauce. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

This tiki-style basement bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. Try the Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Trader’s Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, near the Tower of London. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

World-famous jazz venue with a bar and restaurant. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it good for families. Live acts every night, plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes. More intimate gigs upstairs every Wed. Reservations highly recommended. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro, known for his groundbreaking cocktails, brings his mixology magic to this intimate cocktail lounge. www.thezettertown house.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

Casinos The Casino at the Empire There is a poker room and table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing an Asian restaurant and bars. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Grosvenor Casino Gloucester Road A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenor casinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

The Sportsman Casino This club combines the best in traditional and electronic gaming, informal dining, a poker lounge, sports bar and an all-halal restaurant. www.the sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3642 8531. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Live Entertainment The Blues Kitchen This busy venue stages nightly blues, soul and jazz, plus a DJ at weekends. www.theblues kitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar with live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out, with live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. www.thecomedystore. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

London Cabaret Club Cabaret gets a modern twist at the Bloomsbury Ballroom. ‘Best of British Pop’ is full of hits from the past 60 years, fusing dance, acrobatics and theatre. Dinner and VIP tickets. www.thelondoncabaret club.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.

DINE DA N C E DA R E

The London Cabaret Club The London Cabaret is set in the exquisite surroundings of The Bloomsbury Ballroom and operates two amazing shows weekly. On Fridays swing through the decades with The Best of British Pop, enjoy beloved hits, impressive staging, mesmerising dancers and costumes. Journey from the freedom days of the 60’s and 70’s to London’s punk movement in the 80’s, 90’s Britpop as well as today’s leading anthems. Then enjoy a DJ and dance floor until 3am! For a more suave Saturday evening London Cabaret Club’s 007-themed special, London Never Dies. Be transported to the glamorous Bond world of romance and espionage with gourmet dining and a stunning cabaret show, including groundbreaking 4D special effects.

For group bookings contact:

020 7242 0002

bookings@thelondoncabaretclub.com use code WHERE at www.thelondoncabaretclub.com to get 25% off all ticket tiers

The London Cabaret Club Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London WC1B 4DA

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WELLBEING | THE GUIDE

The finishing touch As Movember begins, with its tradition of men growing moustaches to raise money for charity, Jay Foreman looks at male grooming. Ear flaming, anyone? For most men, a trip to the barber tends to be a utilitarian experience. Until now. There’s a growing trend for men to have a haircut as an excuse to indulge, leaving the barbershop feeling not only lighter on top, but relaxed and refreshed. Ray Kelvin (founder of the Ted Baker brand) was inspired to bring this style of luxury male grooming to the UK after a trip to Istanbul, where he saw barbershops using ancient techniques that date from the Ottoman Empire. Back in 1990s Britain, luxury treatment at a salon was mostly the domain of women. Kelvin’s idea was that men deserved pampering, too. All 12 of Ted Baker’s Ted’s Grooming Rooms are decorated differently to reflect their locations. Sports enthusiasts will love the Covent Garden salon on Great Queen Street, which I visited – it pays homage to the area’s footballing roots with statues and memorabilia: the Football Association was formed here in October 1863. Mortimer Street has medical paraphernalia to mark the medical traditions of the area, while Soho has a rock ‘n’ roll theme to fit with the area’s musical history.

The Full Ted service (45 min; £54) includes a haircut, an expert cut-throat shave (or beard design, for the more hirsute), hot-towel treatment, massage and ear-flaming. Ear flaming is a traditional Turkish method, where unwanted hair is removed from the difficult to shave contours of the outer ear by lighting a taper on fire, and sizzling it quickly off in a swish – immensely satisfying, but not for the faint-hearted. Ted Baker has also launched the Grooming Room treatment range, so customers are able to continue the experience at home after buying the moisturiser, face wash or shaving gel used on them during the session. Highlights include a cologne with tones of grapefruit, lemon, leather and black pepper, and ‘hair mud’ – a matte-finish alternative to gel to keep your hair in place. Other experiences include brow threading (15 min; £14), haircuts (45 min; £32) and a cut-throat shave (30 min; £28). Ted Baker offers a great experience – even for a scruff like me. 33 Great Queen St, WC2B 5AA. T: 020-3397 9966. www.tedsgroomingroom.com

MURDOCK Giving a classic St James’s barbershop a contemporary twist, Murdock (above) is great for the modern gentleman. Sip on a whisky or beer as you try the Murdock London Luxury Full Service for £120, which includes a shampoo, haircut, wet shave, facial and manicure or shoe shine. 83 Brewer St, W1F 9ZN

PALL MALL BARBERS More than 125 years old, Pall Mall Barbers is one of the leading independent barbers in London. Specialising in wet shaves, its popular treatments include the Luxury Wet Shave and the Express Shave. If you want to learn from the skilled barbers, book the Shaving Lesson for £80 – it lasts one hour and the barber will draw up a plan for you. 27 Whitcomb St, WC2H 7EP

GEO F TRUMPER This venue has been a barber and a perfumer since 1875. The original Curzon Street shop in Mayfair retains many original features, including mahogany-panelled private cubicles. It also offers manicures and pedicures. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ

TED’S GROOMING ROOM AND PRODUCT IMAGES COURTESY OF TED’S GROOMING ROOM; SHAVING IMAGE COURTESY OF MURDOCK

Brilliant barbers

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.aveda institute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa

TED’S GROOMING ROOM AND PRODUCT IMAGES COURTESY OF TED’S GROOMING ROOM; SHAVING IMAGE COURTESY OF MURDOCK

This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery The men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata

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This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting. There’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani

Late appointments available

Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 77

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TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards

AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the capital use Where London for information – these concierges share their top tips

Ian Grainger Head Concierge at The Mandeville Hotel

Marcin Czekaj

Paul Whittle

Head Concierge at Grange Tower Bridge Hotel

Head Concierge at Le Méridien Piccadilly

What would you recommend for visitors with one day in London? Visit The O2, which has fantastic restaurants such as Gaucho, and during November you can see the exhibition My Name Is Prince about the singer.

What’s the strangest request you’ve had? Once a guest asked me to come to his bedroom at 7am with cake and Champagne and sing ‘happy birthday’ to his wife.

What should families do? I suggest going to the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Playground in Kensington Gardens. What’s your favourite hidden gem? You can see paintings, clocks and armour at The Wallace Collection in Manchester Square.

What should families do? Warwick Castle, outside London, is one of the best castles in the country. The atmosphere is great; you feel as though you’re stepping back in time. There are amazing shows including birds of prey demonstrations and a Wars of the Roses jousting spectacular. There is a lot of space for children to run around in, too. Any hidden gems? Walk beside the canal in Little Venice and the Rembrandt Gardens and check out the bridges, barges and boats, stand-up paddle boarders, geese and ducks.

Prince’s Purple Rain jacket

Warwick Castle

What’s the strangest request you’ve had? I’ve had many strange and wonderful requests – last-minute visas for war-torn countries and so on. However, the most peculiar one was from a guest wanting to travel to Rome for a private viewing of the Borghese Gallery and Villa Borghese on a Monday, when it was closed. I made it possible!

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground Hampstead Heath

Share a romantic tip. Start at the top of Hampstead Heath and admire the view over London, then wander through the romantic alleyways of Hampstead and peer into the wonderful antiques shops. Later on, go to The Shard for river views and Champagne. Any hidden gems? Journey into London and ride an underground train at The Postal Museum, which opened earlier this year. It’s great for kids and trainspotters.

www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).

PRINCE JACKET COURTESY OF PAISLEY PARK; WARWICK CASTLE AND HAMPSTEAD HEATH © ISTOCK; IAN GRAINGER COURTESY OF THE MANDEVILLE HOTEL; MARCIN CZEKAJ COURTESY OF GRANGE TOWER BRIDGE HOTEL; PAUL WHITTLE IMAGE COURTESY OF LE MÉRIDIEN PICCADILLY

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

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Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

Prince jacket courtesy of paisley Park; warwick castle and hampstead heath © istock; ian grainger courtesy of the mandeville hotel; marcin Czekaj courtesy of grange tower bridge hotel; paul whittle image courtesy of le mÉridien piccadilly

ESSENTIALS

There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 21 main piers. Discounts on journeys with Oyster and contactless payment. The River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel. £16.30. www.tfl.gov.uk/river.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 for 24 hours; unlimited journeys up to 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl. gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Across the entire line excluding Bank branch. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Ealing Broadway to Loughton/Hainault.

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WHERE NOW | HUGH BONNEVILLE

HUGH BONNEVILLE ACTOR Bonneville is starring in the film Paddington 2, having previously appeared in Notting Hill, The Monuments Men and the acclaimed TV series Downton Abbey. Born in Paddington, he now lives in West Sussex What is your favourite building in London?

How is London portrayed in Paddington 2?

Where do you like to eat out?

It is probably the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. I grew up in Blackheath, so visiting the museum, the Royal Observatory and the Royal Naval College is always a treat.

Paddington 2 – much like the first film – is a love

45 Jermyn Street. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so it’s a restaurant that’s good for any time of the day.

letter to London. In this particular film, it is more of an important character than it was in the first film. It is literally part of the plot. Some of the famous landmarks are key to our story evolving.

What is your ideal entertainment?

What will we learn about London from watching Paddington 2?

I would love to see a four o’clock screening of a fantastic movie on a huge screen, and then watch a really good, funny play.

What is your favourite museum or gallery? My favourite museum is Sir John Soane’s Museum, which is a real treasure in the centre of London. Also, the Tate Modern.

Where do you like to go shopping? If you are visiting London for the first time, you obviously have to go to Carnaby Street. But I also recommend Borough Market and Camden Lock. If you like your shops more upmarket, I would also recommend Burlington Arcade – that’s very posh!

What is your favourite green space? It has to be Regent’s Park. I did my first job there [understudying Ralph Fiennes in A Midsummer Night’s Dream at the Open Air Theatre]. I spent a lot of time in that area and it’s beautiful.

What is your favourite way of travelling? My favourite way to travel through the heart of London is by boat. It’s the best way to see the sights and lets you get a sense of the breadth of London all the way from west to east.

Tourists will get even more out of London than they did from the first film. They will want to go to these iconic landmarks and find hidden alleyways that we explore in this new outing.

Why do filmmakers come to London? London is beautiful. It has architecture from across the centuries, from hilarious mobile phone-looking buildings to ancient turrets at the Tower of London.

Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you? All of the places around Primrose Hill, as we filmed both of the Paddington movies around there. It’s a particularly elegant and beautiful part of the capital. It’s like a village in a bustling place.

Where would you stop for tea? At any café along the South Bank, as I just love

Where are your favourite places to film? In Paddington 2, the area of London that has a new light shone on it is the beautiful canal in Maida Vale, which is the scene of a very important part of the film.

What was the last play that you saw? I went to see Othello at the Ambassadors Theatre – it was fantastic!

Where would you like to spend the night? The Lanesborough hotel is wonderful, especially since they spent millions refurbishing it. What does London mean to you? London is the beating heart of a mighty body known as Great Britain. What makes London stand out from the rest of the world? London has open arms, a warm heart, a load of contradictions, fantastic architecture, a really frustrating transport system – sometimes – and amazing views. Paddington 2 is in cinemas from 10 Nov. www.paddington.com

looking at the Thames.

Where do you like to have a drink? The bar at Brown’s Hotel. You are surrounded by amazing photographs [taken by Terence Donovan].

Clockwise from top left: Royal Observatory, Greenwich; Hugh Bonneville; Sir John Soane’s Museum; Tower of London; Paddington 2

ROYAL OBSERVATORY © VISIT GREENWICH; HUGH BONNEVILLE © STUART MCCLYMONT; SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM © GARETH GARDNER; TOWER OF LONDON © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES; PADDINGTON © STUDIO CANAL

My Perfect Day

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