Where Magazine London Nov 2018

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

NOVEMBER 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

WAR AND

PLU

DM S SHOAYOR ’S EFG W JA Z Z FE S TIV A DV AL C A L EN T EN D ARS LO R

PEACE A century since the Armistice, discover the trenches, troops and tales of World War I

EAST IS EAST Inside the cultural centre Japan House

WINTER IS COMING From Thanksgiving feasts to perfect pubs

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

November

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

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ON THE COVER

Weeping Window, an installation of ceramic poppies to mark 100 years since the end of World War I, at the Imperial War Museum © IWM

The Guide 20 SIGHTSEEING Marching bands, gold carriages and more.

Find out how you can enjoy the City’s annual Lord Mayor’s Show.

HOGWARTS IN THE SNOW © DAN WONG PHOTOGRAPHY; ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM © TRUSTEES OF THE ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM/IAIN DUNCAN; CHRISTMAS SCENE COURTESY OF COUNTRY LIVING CHRISTMAS FAIR; AKIRA DISHES COURTESY OF JAPAN HOUSE; QUEEN ELIZABETH II © DEAN AND CHAPTER OF WESTMINSTER; NUTCRACKER COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES

38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Learn about the special relationship that the British royal family once enjoyed with Russia, at The Queen’s Gallery.

44 ENTERTAINMENT As the EFG London Jazz Festival takes place, we round up the capital’s finest jazz venues.

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54 SHOPPING If you’re looking for unique souvenirs, then visit Dazzle at the OXO Tower for one-of-a-kind, handmade gifts.

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Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

Have a blast this month! Watch fireworks displays, feel the force of Star Wars at the Royal Albert Hall and add sparkle to your trip with Christmas lights.

Advent calendars aren’t just for children, you know. Fancy one full of gin, beauty products or teas from across the world?

Take your pick here.

10 THE GREAT AND THE GOOD The Armistice was signed 100 years ago – here’s how to honour the end of World War I.

14 WINTER WARMERS Pubs with fireplaces, fabulous hot chocolates and mulled wine: discover London’s cosiest places.

82 MY PERFECT DAY Suggs, the lead singer of the legendary band Madness, shares his favourite London places, from bars and shops to the venues he’s played.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

62 DINING In honour of the new Japan House in Kensington, we take a look at the latest eateries in this fantastic neighbourhood.

72 NIGHTLIFE If you love exploring, visit one of the newly opened Mr Fogg’s bars, inspired by Around the World in 80 Days.

76 WELLBEING Spa treatments aren’t just for women – read our pick of London’s best ones for men, from shaving to facials.

78 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced hotel concierges share their helpful tips on how to make the most of your trip.

80 MAP A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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Vol. No. 44 Issue No.11 ISSN 0951 323X

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Welcome Winter is coming

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

This month marks a century since the Armistice was signed – the end of World War I. The capital is marking the occasion with events such as The People’s Procession along Whitehall. It’s hard not to be moved by the stories you’ll encounter, many of which were told in the immediate aftermath of the war (p. 10).

On a separate note, this month I also met Graham McPherson, better known as Suggs. Famous for songs such as Baggy Trousers, the singer has many links to London – he grew up here and sings songs about Camden.

Find out why he declares this ‘the best city in the world’ (p. 82).

London loves to put on a show so, if you want to enjoy some

pomp and pageantry, don’t miss the Lord Mayor’s Show. The 5km-long parade winds through the City of London, and features marching bands, horses and the 1757 State Coach (p. 20).

As the temperature drops, the number of things you can do to stay warm rises: from roaring fires to the mother of all hot chocolates, read our guide to the best winter warmers (p. 14).

When I was younger, one of the Christmas traditions that I loved was opening my advent calendar door every morning.

No longer just for kids, there are calendars to suit everyone – filled with the likes of beauty products, gin and even tea (p. 18).

Have an amazing trip!

Meeting Suggs

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © ISTOCK; HEADSHOT © DAVID POLLARD; SUGGS AND KOHINOOR © TIM BENTON

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®

The city is sparkling this November, with fireworks displays, Thanksgiving celebrations and Christmas lights switch-ons

REGENT STREET MOTOR SHOW SATURDAY 3 NOVEMBER

Love cars? Love shopping? Then London won’t get any better for you than it does this month. The Regent Street Motor Show is back, celebrating motoring through the ages. Bonhams auction house is in charge of the Veteran Car Zone, while motorsport enthusiasts will see lots of racing cars in action. Green driving is showcased with low-emission motoring displays, while song-and-dance group West End Kids will perform car-themed songs all day. Even if you’re not a motor enthusiast, the entirety of this elegant West End street will be closed to (moving) cars – a shopper’s delight. www.regentstreetmotorshow.com 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I N O V E M B E R 2018

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

THANKSGIVING THURSDAY 22 NOVEMBER

The United Kingdom and the United States of America have always had a special relationship, so it’s no surprise to find so many venues that celebrate Thanksgiving. There are lots of ways to mark the occasion, from visiting Benjamin Franklin’s House to watching the award-winning musical Hamilton. If you’re craving turkey, maplebuttered sweet potatoes, cornbread and mac and cheese, or pumpkin brûlée and pecan pie, visit Riding House Café in Fitzrovia, Rail House Café in Victoria or Village East in Bermondsey – or sip a cocktail in the Savoy hotel’s American Bar.

BONFIRE NIGHT MONDAY 5 NOVEMBER

Start your trip with a bang at one of these fireworks festivals. Every 5 November, bonfires are lit across the UK and fireworks are let off, to commemorate the anniversary of a failed attempt by Catholic rebels to kill King James I in 1605. Their atrocious plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament with barrels of gunpowder was foiled at the last minute. At the top of a hill with fantastic views across the capital, Alexandra Palace’s huge festival of fireworks (2-3 Nov; above) has more entertainment than you can shake a sparkler at, including a laser show, a German beer festival, more than 50 street food stalls, DJs and circus performers.

Meanwhile, south of the river, there’s a huge bonfire and a spectacular fireworks display at Battersea Park (3 Nov). Staying south, Blackheath’s display (3 Nov) is one of the biggest free events in London, attracting more than 80,000 people. There are also two musical displays at Morden Park (3 Nov) and Wimbledon Park (5 Nov). www.visitlondon.com

STAR WARS AT THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL FRIDAY 16–SUNDAY 18 NOVEMBER

Enter a different dimension at the Royal Albert Hall as Star Wars: A New Hope is screened in concert.

George Lucas’ 1977 classic film will be shown while the London Symphony Orchestra performs John Williams’ epic score.

The sci-fi spectacular follows Luke Skywalker as he meets Obi-Wan Kenobi and begins his Jedi training. May the force be with you. www.royalalberthall.com www.wheretraveler.

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

XXXXXXXXX NOVEMBER

THROUGHOUT NOVEMBER

Give your trip some sparkle and see our famous Christmas lights. This tradition started on Regent Street in 1954, when shops and businesses put up a display to prove that post-war London was an attractive place to visit. To add a touch of glamour, the biggest displays are switched on by celebrities, from the Spice Girls to Helen Mirren. Oxford Street’s lights are getting a total makeover this year, though the final design is being kept a secret. In nearby Regent Street, more than 300,000 lights will put a twinkle in your eyes as you shop. Over in Carnaby Street, meanwhile, you can see illuminated lyrics from Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody. www.visitlondon.com

ATP TENNIS FINALS SUNDAY 11–SUNDAY 18 NOVEMBER

Federer (above), Djokovic and Nadal are some of the names confirmed to compete at the Nitto ATP Finals at The O2. This prestigious tennis tournament sees the world’s top eight men singles players and doubles teams, who have earned their ranking points in the ATP World Tour season, compete in the world’s largest indoor tennis event. The competition has been played in major cities around the world since 1970, and since 2009 has been held in London, where it will be played until 2020. www.atpworldtour.com

ECHO CHAMBER FRIDAY 9–WEDNESDAY 14 NOVEMBER

What unites Lady Gaga, JFK, old toy cars and surgical blades? Answer: a new exhibition from British art duo Miss Bugs, whose Echo Chamber show is on in the gallery at 10 Hanover Street. The pair focus on the faces of the famous, often depicting them using resin casting or on silk-screen prints. For this exhibition however, the artists have created 15 large works made up of countless tiny, brightly coloured objects such as plastic Japanese charms and LEGO figures. The works are dominated by patterns found in the natural world and seek to show that social networks and global media create one, big echo chamber of ideas. www.10hanover.org

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Sip gin at True OriGINs – The Scottish Gin Festival at Tobacco Dock Attend the opening night of Hadestown, a new musical at the National Theatre Catch the last night of King Lear at Duke of York’s Theatre in Covent Garden Don’t miss Alexandra Palace’s spectacular fireworks and laser show Celebrate Bonfire Night around the fire at Temper restaurant in Soho Watch the classic film Some Like it Hot at BFI London on the South Bank Visit Home Futures, a new exhibition at The Design Museum in Kensington Today’s the first day of I Am Ashurbanipal, about ancient Iraq, at The British Museum Visit Leicester Square’s Christmas Market, one of the first of the festive season Watch the Muay Thai Grand Prix boxing match at Indigo at The O2 arena Honour the fallen at 11am in a special Remembrance service on Whitehall Attend the first night of Jesse Cave: Sunrise, comical performance art at Soho Theatre Make the most of autumn and see wild deer on a stroll around Richmond Park There’s reindeer, fireworks and Father Christmas on Marylebone High Street See the first night of The Abandoned Room, a magic show in Mandrake Hotel Jazz fans can attend an event on the opening night of the EFG Jazz Festival Harry Potter fans, visit Hogwarts in the Snow at Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Watch England play football against Croatia at Wembley. Come on, England!

Listen to the Elliot Galvin Trip play jazz in the Elgar Room at the Royal Albert Hall Watch La Tragedie de Carmen at London Museum of Water & Steam in Kew Listen to Florence + The Machine as the band pack out The O2 tonight Don’t miss Christmas at Kew, a stunning illuminated trail, in Kew Gardens Head to Connaught Village’s Christmas shopping evening for nibbles and carols Catch the last night of A Pupil, about a suicidal violinist, at Park Theatre Warm up by climbing the hill in Greenwich Park to enjoy great views of the capital Jump to it! Visit the new Oxygen Freejumping trampoline centre in The O2 Attend the opening night of Dickens’ classic, A Christmas Carol, at The Old Vic Stroll around the chalets and ice skate outdoors at Hyde Park Winter Wonderland Clap along to Christmas with the Salvation Army at the Royal Albert Hall It’s St Andrew’s Day! Celebrate at the Scottish restaurant Boisdale of Belgravia

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PREVIOUS PAGES: FIREWORKS COURTESY OF ALEXANDRA PALACE; REGENT STREET MOTOR SHOW © KEVIN MORAN; THANKSGIVING © HOUSE CAFÉ COMPANY; STAR WARS: A NEW HOPE COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL. THIS PAGE: CHRISTMAS LIGHTS © ISTOCK; ROGER FEDERER © WONDERHATCH; COLD WAR – A NEW HOPE © MISS BUGS

CHRISTMAS LIGHTS

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The 11th month, on the 11th day, at the 11th hour – the moment when World War I ended is impossible to forget.

But did you know that 2018 marks 100 years since the Armistice was signed? Neil Simpson asks Richard Hughes, the Imperial War Museum’s World War I curator, and Roy Stephenson, an expert from the Museum of London, to share some of the city’s epic war stories

Top: Royal Air Force Museum Above: Weeping Window tribute at the Imperial War Museum Right: Armistice Day crowds outside Buckingham Palace

GRENADES ON CLAPHAM COMMON London remains one of the greenest cities in the world, so it’s not surprising to hear that its vast parks were put to good use by the army.

Wimbledon Common, for example, became a large encampment. Roy Stephenson, from the Museum of London, says: ‘It was like a city of wooden buildings, holding battalions of troops before they were put on trains to the Western Front, or receiving them back again.’

Meanwhile, a corner of Clapham Common became a trench warfare training ground.

On the land closest to Clapham North Station, a network of trenches was dug – and it must have been pretty noisy. ‘In the middle of urban London they were testing hand

ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM © TRUSTEES OF THE ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM/IAIN DUNCAN; WEEPING WINDOW AND ARMISTICE CROWDS © IWM

WAR STORIES

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WHERE NOW | REMEMBERING WWI grenades,’ Stephenson says. ‘You could go to Clapham Common, be shown how to operate a hand grenade, throw a few and then get a certificate for attending. That doesn’t go on now – it’s all done on Salisbury Plain, out of sight and out of mind.’ Inmates at west London’s infamous Wormwood Scrubs prison helped to manufacture the army’s grenades, which were then sent south to Clapham Common in hand carts.

HALT ON THE MARCH BY A STREAM AT NESLE BY SIR ALFRED MUNNINGS © BEAVERBROOK COLLECTION OF WAR ART, CANADIAN WAR MUSEUM

WOMEN ON THE MARCH It is no coincidence that 2018 also marks 100 years since the first women won the right to vote in the UK. As the suffragettes battled the Houses of Parliament, World War I saw women replace enlisted men in public transport, engineering and munitions manufacturing roles. ‘That’s one of our strong stories at the Museum of London,’ reveals Stephenson. ‘A predecessor at the London Museum [which was open from 1912 until 1976] actively collected women’s workwear from that period in London. So, we’ve got an amazing collection of the uniforms and the kit they would have used.’

These days, you’ll find this remarkable uniform stash in the Museum of London’s People’s City gallery. To see it brought to life, visit on Saturday 10 November. You’ll meet an actress playing a wartime munitions factory worker, walking around the museum as part of its London at War family day.

SHIPWRECK SURVIVORS On 7 May 1915, the unarmed passenger ship Lusitania was attacked by a German submarine near southern Ireland. Nearly 2,000 passengers were on board including Margaret Gwyer and her new husband.

As the ship sank, the couple were sucked into one of its funnels. When the Lusitania’s boiler room exploded, they were blown back out again and, miraculously, became two of the few survivors of the attack. London’s Imperial War Museum displays the camisole that Margaret was wearing that night.

‘It’s a bit frayed and covered in black marks,’ says Hughes, the museum’s World War I curator. ‘But it’s in remarkably good condition.’ Margaret’s family donated it to the Imperial War Museum and, for Hughes, it is a highlight of the collection. ‘We’ve got lots of weapons and barbed wire, but I think the camisole is particularly personal,’ he says.

ZEPPELIN STRIKES Before the horror of World War II’s Blitz, London experienced the threat of Germany’s menacing Zeppelin airships.

Stephenson describes them as ‘huge, cigar-shaped balloons of lighter-than-air hydrogen, with a little gondola and an

Halt on the March by a Stream at Nesle by Sir Alfred Munnings

engine underneath’. The Zeppelins were steered by the wind, which meant that they could emerge anywhere in the skies over or near London. The fact that they flew at very high altitudes made them difficult to stop, but several were shot down in areas beyond the city, such as Stevenage in Hertfordshire.

Eventually, however, Zeppelins began striking London. ‘If you walk down Tooting High Street you can see the damaged pediment of a building which we know is from a Zeppelin attack,’ Stephenson says.

In September 1915, one pilot managed to drop bombs from Golders Green [in north-west London] towards central London, over Bloomsbury, Holborn and Clerkenwell, as well as the City of London’s Guildhall area and Liverpool Street Station. ‘Just off Barts Square [a 10-minute walk from the Museum of London], there’s a warehouse building where you can see that the upper storeys were rebuilt after the Zeppelin attack,’ says Stephenson. At 57a Farringdon Road, you will find a plaque on the building, which commemorates the attack.

Camberwell [south London], she was a young munitions worker during the war. Her father died during the global influenza pandemic on 9 November, two days before the Armistice.

Caroline was with her father’s coffin at home and didn’t even know that the Armistice had been signed, until she heard the sirens and went out into the street.’

Hughes curated the museum’s new installation, I Was There: Room of Voices: ‘Each clip is about 30 seconds long and they run as a sequence – all the extracts focus on what people were doing immediately after the war ended.’

Caroline’s story is included, alongside 31 other voices from across the country.

“London experienced the threat of Germany’s menacing Zeppelin airships – huge balloons of lighter-than-air hydrogen”

ARMISTICE DAY There are countless stories to be told about the moments immediately after the end of World War I. The Imperial War Museum has kept a record of many of these recollections, told by the people who lived them. One of Hughes’ favourites is Caroline Rennles. ‘She’s a fantastic storyteller,’ he explains. ‘Born in

TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN WARRIOR As London recovered, thoughts turned to commemorating those who lost their lives during the war. The Cenotaph (which means ‘empty tomb’ in Greek) on Whitehall is the UK’s national memorial to the war.

‘A wooden version went up in 1919,’ says Hughes, ‘before it was cast in stone and formally unveiled in 1920.’

As the stone Cenotaph was revealed, Westminster Abbey buried the body of a single soldier at the west end of its nave, to commemorate the second anniversary of the Armistice. This unidentified soldier was found on the battlefields of France.

Now known as the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, the grave contains French soil and is covered with black Belgian marble.

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WHERE NOW | REMEMBERING WWI

LONDON REMEMBERS Find out how to join in as the country pauses on Sunday 11 November at 11am

CHURCH BELLS The UK government has joined forces with the German government to encourage churches around the world to ring their bells, in a recreation of the spontaneous bell-ringing which took place as the Armistice was signed in 1918 – even Big Ben took part. www.gov.uk SILENCE IN THE SQUARE Head to Trafalgar Square for this annual event, where a programme of presentations will take place on the stage beside Nelson’s Column. www.london.gov.uk

LONDON AT WAR , MUSEUM OF LONDON On Saturday 10 November, head to this free event during which actors will tell the stories of wartime Londoners, including a nurse and a soldier who has just returned from France. www.museumoflondon.org.uk MAKING A NEW WORLD, IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM This season of installations and exhibitions runs across both IWM London and IWM North, highlighting how World War I has shaped modern society. At 11am

on Remembrance Sunday, IWM London’s Western Front bugle will be used to play the Last Post in the atrium.

Weeping Window, a cascade comprising several thousand handmade ceramic poppies is on display outside. www.iwm.org.uk

ALFRED MUNNINGS: WAR ARTIST, NATIONAL ARMY MUSEUM Renowned for his depictions of horses, this temporary art exhibition showcases Munnings’ World War I paintings (from 30 Nov).

Meanwhile, the museum’s monthly Late event (7 Nov; to 8pm) will be dedicated to remembering the centenary, with a panel discussion, poetry, music and crafts. www.nam.ac.uk FIRST WORLD WAR IN THE AIR , ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM Given a new lease of life this summer thanks to an ambitious redevelopment project, this north London museum now has more galleries and landscaped grounds. Its First World War in the Air exhibition brings together World War I aircraft, medals, letters and uniforms. www.rafmuseum.org.uk JUTLAND 1916, NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM In this free exhibition at the Greenwich museum, discover the story and technology behind what is infamously known as the largest surface sea battle in history, the Battle of Jutland, which involved 279 ships. www.rmg.co.uk

National Army Museum

National Maritime Museum

SPANISH FLU, FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM The deadliest pandemic in history, Spanish flu, arrived just as World War I was coming to an end. This new exhibition recreates a 1918 field hospital to show how nurses were at the forefront of fighting this virulent killer, which claimed the lives of nearly 250,000 Britons. www.florencenightingale.co.uk

Tomb of the Unknown Warrior

Florence Nightingale Museum

NATIONAL ARMY MUSEUM © JAMES MCCAULEY; NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM; TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN WARRIOR © DEAN AND CHAPTER OF WESTMINSTER ABBEY; FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM COURTESY OF FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM

THE PEOPLE’S PROCESSION In July, the UK government launched a ballot inviting members of the public to join this march down Whitehall. You can watch as 10,000 people take part in ‘A Nation’s Thank You’ by walking past the Cenotaph. www.armistice100.org.uk

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T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R . CO . U K

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TM & © 2018 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc

For the mother of all hot chocolates, sniff the air around Covent Garden and follow your nose to Choccywoccydoodah. Go hungry, as a single slice of cake is bigger than your face, and warm up over a mug of its legendary Most Decadent Hot Chocolate: molten Belgian chocolate stirred into warm milk, topped with a caramel waffle, ice cream and whipped cream with chocolate drops and marshmallows.

If you’d rather grab a hot drink to take away, pass by Paul A Young in Angel, Bank or Soho.

The minute you step inside, you’ll smell hot

chocolate lapping the edges of its hot pan. Mix it with cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cardamom, and chilli or sea salt.

For something different, opt for a Unicorn Latte at Saint Aymes in Connaught Village near Hyde Park. This pink hot drink comes with whipped cream, marshmallows and blue sprinkles. You can also order warm drinks that are sprinkled with 23ct gold. Alternatively, opt for Dishoom’s house chai, chocolate chai or chai egg nog, made with nutmeg, cinnamon and Hennessy VS, at one of the Bombay-style café’s five London branches.

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MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK; CHOCCYWOCCYDOODAH COURTESY OF CHOCCYWOCCYDOODAH;

As it’s cold outside, head to one of these hot spots to warm up over a Sunday roast or a crumble, a hot chocolate or a spicy cocktail, says Sarah Riches

WHERE NOW | WINTER WARMERS Roast beef with all the trimmings at Roast

MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK; CHOCCYWOCCYDOODAH COURTESY OF CHOCCYWOCCYDOODAH; ROAST BEEF COURTESY OF ROAST; THE HOLLY BUSH © TAYO LEE NELSON

It’s cold and dark, but that gives you the perfect excuse to tuck into a Sunday roast. Traditionally, it’s a meal of roast meat, vegetables, a savoury Yorkshire pudding and lots of gravy. And where better to try one than at the British restaurant, Roast, in Borough Market? Opt for slow-roasted lamb shoulder studded with rosemary and garlic, or pork belly and Bramley apple sauce.

If you’re vegan or vegetarian, then head to Manna in Primrose Hill, which has been serving vegan food, wine and beer since 1967.

Its vegan Sunday roast changes every week, but is made up of nuts, seeds and grains, seasonal greens and root vegetables.

Here for Thanksgiving? Then feast at Rail House Café near Buckingham Palace, Riding House Café off

Choccywoccydoodah

Oxford Street or Village East near the Fashion and Textile Museum (22 Nov). Start your celebrations with an old-fashioned cocktail made with Calvados (apple brandy) and cinnamon, with bourbon-soaked cranberries.

Dine on slow-roasted Norfolk bronze turkey cooked in herb butter, served family-style for sharing. It’s served with sides of cornbread and sausage stuffing, maple-buttered sweet potatoes, mac and cheese, and creamed corn casserole. You can also stuff yourself with glazed sprouts with bacon and green beans with praline, which are smothered in Calvados gravy. If you can manage a pudding, tuck into an all-American pecan or pumpkin brûlée pie, served with hand-whipped vanilla cream.

If that triggers your sweet tooth, then look out for Crumble Shack at markets and festivals across London. If you like crumble and custard, then it’s a dream come true as you choose from a selection. Festive fruit with a classic topping, mulled wine and pear, or apple and cinnamon with chocolate? It’s a tough choice, we know.

The Holly Bush in Hampstead

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WHERE NOW | WINTER WARMERS

Get in the festive spirit with a glass of mulled wine – red wine typically simmered with cloves, cinnamon sticks, star anise and lemon or orange juice. Try it at Christmas markets across the capital, including Wintertime outside the Southbank Centre and Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park.

You can also sample glögg (Nordic mulled wine) at Kupp, a Scandinavian restaurant and bar which overlooks the Grand Union Canal in Paddington. After a brisk walk along the canal, warm up over a glass of glögg made with red berry wine, flavoured with cinnamon sticks, cardamom, star Wintertime outside the Southbank Centre

anise, cloves, oranges, sultanas, ginger and flaked almonds. The bar also serves hot toddies – here they’re made with spiced apple cider or whisky flavoured with lemon juice, honey and cinnamon.

If that doesn’t warm you up, then perhaps having a drink at Hawker House in Canada Water will. Although this weekend night market is outside, its Hot Bar menu is designed to keep you cosy.

You can choose from buttered or spiced rums, hot cider or boozy hot chocolates made with cognac and the bright-green French liqueur, Chartreuse.

Spiced apple cider

Mulled wine

If you don’t care what drink you have as long as you’re snug, then head to The Holly Bush in Hampstead. This Grade II-listed gastropub has all the right ingredients for a winter’s day: coal-burning fires, candles and warm, hearty dishes – how about pea soup and pork chops, followed by chocolate fondant?

Sink into a leather armchair by the fire or bag the cosy snug made for two.

Milroy’s in Soho serves 250 whiskys from all over Scotland, the US, Japan and elsewhere.

So if the 10-year Arran doesn’t warm your cockles, a bottle of 35-year-old Macallan will (well, if you have £5,200 to spare…).

Push through the bookcase at the back and downstairs you’ll find The Vault, a candlelit cellar bar with a wooden den.

Fed up of being stuck inside? Then head to Pergola Paddington near Little Venice, which brings the outdoors in with a pergola of ivy. The two-storey food and drink hall has seats for 850, and while its rooftop is exposed to the elements, blankets, heaters and mulled wine keep you warm, and you can fill up on spicy Mexican tortillas.

A second branch, Pergola Olympia London, opened this autumn on the rooftop of the historic exhibition centre.

Its 500 seats are fully enclosed.

PERGOLA PADDINGTON © JACK PASCO; WINTERTIME AND MULLED WINE © ISTOCK

Pergola Paddington

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

FESTIVE SPIRITS Enjoy award-winning vodkas and gins Twelve Festive Single-Estate Spirits, Chase Distillery, £59.99, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

FROM LONDON Whether it’s beauty products or chocolate treats, here are the most luxurious advent calendars

A CRACKING IDEA Based on a traditional Nutcracker design Wooden Nutcracker Advent Calendar, £36, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

TWICE THE FUN Open the doors to gin and chocolates The Grand Advent Calendar, £68, Hotel Chocolat, 78 Strand, WC2R 0DE

YOUR CUP OF TEA Drink tea, from purple bamboo shoot to dong ding oolong Rare Tea Wooden Advent Calendar £145, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER

DRIVING HOME FOR CHRISTMAS A Scandinavian-style Santa’s lorry Wooden Santa Lorry Advent Calendar, £49.95, Liberty, Regent St, W1B 5AH

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF STOCKISTS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

BOX OF TRICKS Put your own gifts inside Boxes Advent Calendar, £49, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

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THE NE W JOHN LE WI S & PARTNERS COLLECTION

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Your carriages await Did you know that London has two mayors? Yes, it’s true. As the Lord Mayor’s Show takes place in the capital, Neil Simpson discovers more about this very extravagant party, to which everyone is invited The Lord Mayor’s Show (10 Nov) is an annual, free-to-attend spectacle starring the Lord Mayor of the City of London, a role which is now 803 years old. The Lord Mayor’s job is to be a champion for the country’s financial and professional services, as well as act as the head of the City of London Corporation. A new Mayor is elected every October.

So, why two mayors? London is divided into 32 boroughs, which are headed up by the Mayor of London (currently Sadiq Khan).

The City of London isn’t one of these boroughs and therefore has its own head, the Lord Mayor.

This role was established in 1215 in a deal made between the City’s residents and King John, which instructed that the Mayor must travel from the area to Westminster once a year, to swear loyalty to the Crown.

The Lord Mayor’s dramatic journey begins at Mansion House at 11am, after a two-minute

silence for Remembrance Day. The new mayor will then stop at the Royal Courts of Justice to declare an oath to the Crown.

At 1pm, the procession returns via Victoria Embankment and finishes at 2.30pm.

Last year, more than 7,000 people took part in this procession, which features the State Coach, which is usually on display at the Museum of London. This outrageously ornate, red-and-gold creation was built in 1757 and cost the City’s Aldermen £860. It was money well spent, because the State Coach is now the oldest working ceremonial vehicle in the world. Pulled by six horses, expect the coach to be joined by marching bands and all sorts of vehicles.

Look out for the Pageantmaster, who will be wearing a flamboyant black hat, which is pointed at the front and back and crowned by a swaying plume of black feathers. The Pageantmaster is in charge of this procession – don’t miss him on a horse, or standing in the back of his open-top Land Rover.

At 3pm, a group of City of London Guide Lecturers will be waiting to show the crowds around the area. These walks are free and are a superb introduction to the oldest part of London, which is an ancient maze of twisting alleyways and curious corners. Gather at Number 1 Poultry, opposite Mansion House.

Grandstands line the route outside St Paul’s Cathedral so, if you want a front-row seat, book online. But whether you choose to sit or stand, make sure you don’t miss one of London’s biggest and most fascinating occasions. www.lordmayorsshow.london

The procession passes St Paul’s Cathedral

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm.

Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk.

149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 0207499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall tower, designed by the Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, has views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond.

Abseil down it or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide – the world’s longest. 3 Nov: Firework Night. Mon-Fri 11am-4.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-5.30pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with a painted ceiling by Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the last part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

The British Library

LORD MAYOR’S SHOW © C TOTMAN; MODEL OF HOGWARTS CASTLE © DAN WONG PHOTOGRAPHY

The world’s largest library has a great permanent collection and many temporary exhibitions.

From 23 Nov: Cats on the Page. The entrance is taken over by cats from books such as Judith Kerr’s Mog and TS Eliot’s Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats.

From 27 Nov: PG Wodehouse: The Man and His Work. Famous and lesser-known works trace the British author’s creative development.

To 25 Nov: Michael Palin: Writer, Actor, Comedian. Scripts, diaries and photographs sourced from Michael Palin’s personal archive are on display. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

The Charterhouse

Chiswick House & Gardens

Dating back to 1348, this was a burial site during the Black Death before becoming an almshouse in 1611. It opened to the public in 2017. There’s a museum about its past, while visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny, curious chapel.

Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site, as it is still home for a small community of retired residents, the Brothers. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour £10; Brothers’ tour £15. www.thecharterhouse.org.

Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

With neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by Rome and 16th-century Italy, this manor is closed in winter, but its 18th-century gardens remain open. Gardens daily sunrise-dusk. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, especially medicinal varieties including tropical specimens in glasshouses.

24-25 Nov: Christmas Fair. This annual event brings more than 100 gift and produce stands to the garden, where you can browse British goods and enjoy mulled wine and carol singing; adult £6; child free. Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am-4pm or dusk (if earlier); closed 19-23 Nov. Adult £9.50; child £6.25. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk.

66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646.

Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Cutty Sark Climb aboard the world’s last surviving tea clipper and learn about life on board. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map.

Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dennis Severs’ House Explore the fascinating home of the late American artist Dennis Severs. Stroll around 10 rooms, from the cellar to the attic, which illustrate the life of Huguenot weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries.

From 25 Nov: Christmas Installation. See the house transformed with vintage cards, open fires and a period Christmas tree. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 0207247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Let it snow It’s no secret that JK Rowling loves snow. In her Harry Potter stories, Hogsmeade was routinely covered in several feet of snow every Christmas, the Weasley twins used magically possessed snowballs to harass their teachers and at Hogwarts, the Great Hall’s ceiling was enchanted, so that snow fell from it. It’s no surprise, then, that Hogwarts in the Snow (from 17 Nov; p. 31) has become such a festive treat at the Warner Bros. Studio Tour London. Each year, part of the Great Hall set is dressed for the Yule Ball, while the studio’s Hogwarts model is coated with a magical dusting of snow. Even the Gryffindor common room set is decorated for Christmas. As this is a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the world of making movies, you can handle each type of snow that was used by the production crew – no gloves necessary.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. Normally closed to the public, you can tour the State Rooms and garden in summer. The Changing the Guard ceremony, during which one regiment takes over from another to protect the Queen and the palace, takes place in the forecourt on most mornings from 10am; check online for the full schedule. www.royalcollection.org.uk/ buckinghampalace. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7.

Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).

During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony becomes the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; check for dates.

Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park. www.wheretraveler.com 21

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SIGHTSEEING Dr Johnson’s House

Fulham Palace

Ham House and Gardens

Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century home. Please check for shows, talks and tours. The current exhibition, Curious Travellers: Dr Johnson and Thomas Pennant on Tour, explores how Johnson and his contemporary Pennant became pioneers of the travel-writing genre as they toured Scotland and Wales. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

This 15th-century building was a summer retreat for bishops. Now, it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and tours. Check for times.

Admission free, charges for events. www.fulham palace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. General admission Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, Sat-Sun noon-4pm; garden daily 10am-4pm.

Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust.org.uk.

Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950.

Off map. Station: Richmond.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, it also has award-winning gardens. Sun-Fri & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Go Ape Alexandra Palace A treetop obstacle course for kids, with a boating lake nearby. Daily; check online for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329.

Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

Go Ape Battersea Park Another treetop adventure playground with ladders, bridges and zip lines. The experience takes three-and-a-half hours to complete. Open daily; please check online for time and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Handel & Hendrix in London See the former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and the American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. 6 Nov: Handel and the Mandolin. Listen to music arranged by Handel especially for this instrument, performed by the London Mandolin Quartet; 6.30pm, £12.

20 Nov: Exploring Oratorio. A counter-tenor performs some of Handel’s oratorios with a harpsichord player, to showcase pieces beyond his well-known operas; 6.30pm, £12. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices.

Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org.

25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this huge ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. Tours every Sat. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114.

F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire.

Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Ice ice, baby Every winter, London sprouts more ice rinks than you can shake a turkey leg at, but Skate at Somerset House (from 14 Nov; p. 41) is one of the classiest. Its dramatic, neoclassical courtyard is transformed into an ice-covered playground. Cleverly illuminated and with a musical soundtrack, the annual event is sponsored by esteemed department store Fortnum & Mason, which takes care of the catering. This year you will find Fortnum’s Lodge, a restaurant dedicated to the culture and cuisine of Alpine regions. There’s also a chance to pick up some festive gifts. If you don’t fancy putting your skates on, head to the Skate Lounge next to the rink for a warming drink and seasonal snack.

This 19th-century home belonged to Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books and letters. Check for times and prices. www.cityof london.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 0207332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, a fashion collection dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

SKATE AT SOMERSET HOUSE © DAVID JENSEN

Keats House

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V&A South Kensington New galleries now open vam.ac.uk Admission free The Photography Centre is supported by The Bern Schwartz Family Foundation, Modern Media, Shao Zhong Art Foundation and many other generous donors.

Linda McCartney (1941–98) Jimi Hendrix. Bromide print, 1968, printed later.

Given by Sir Paul McCartney Š 1968 Paul McCartney / Photographer: Linda McCartney

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SIGHTSEEING Kenwood

KidZania London

The London Dungeon

Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Housed in a multi-storey venue three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could wish for including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and an aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. Children can be newsreaders, drummers, dance at a disco and dress up with truncheons and shout ‘We are police!

We’re here to keep the peace!’ while Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew doing anything but. The early-years Better known as Kew Gardens, area means that younger siblings this botanical research centre will have fun too. You’ll leave Every morning at ZSL wondering why there wasn’t a and World Heritage Site contains London Zoo, a keeper KidZania when you were growing plants from across the globe, with has to level out all the up, which is why it hosts occasional Victorian tropical greenhouses and holes the aardvarks dig adult nights! Wed-Fri 10am-4pm, a Chinese pagoda, while the Xstrata during the night Sat-Sun 10am-7pm; closed 5-7, Treetop Walkway offers great views.

12-13, 19-20 & 26-27 Nov. Advance: adult Don’t miss the glorious Temperate from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult House, which is the biggest Victorian from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. glasshouse in the world and has reopened Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, following a five-year refurbishment.

W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: From 22 Nov: Christmas at Kew. Kew Gardens’ Shepherd’s Bush. sixth annual lights festival features more than On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and see a grand art collection made up of Rembrandts, Gainsboroughs and Vermeers. Regular family events. Daily 10am-4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood.

Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

one million tiny lights, laser-beam displays and the Fire Garden, as well as plenty of traditional Christmas decorations. Spiced cider, mulled wine, hot chocolate and roasted chestnuts will keep you warm; from 5pm, booking is strongly advised.

To 20 Nov daily 10am-4pm, from 21 Nov daily 10am-3.30pm. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs A history lesson on the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are located in a former plague pit. Not for the faint-hearted. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 0207403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters.

Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon.

Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000.

F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers.

From 22 Nov: Christmas at ZSL London.

Follow a mile-long illuminated path which lights up the zoo after dark, including the Light Vortex – this tunnel has a canopy studded with more than 100,000 tiny lights. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and

Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039

www.goldentours.com

TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.

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SIGHTSEEING Camel Chat, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Madame Tussauds The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film, the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony, or ‘Tom Hearty’: a model of actor Tom Hardy with a heartbeat.

Other recent additions include athlete Mo Farah and the

The O2

Duchess of Sussex. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure!

Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Huge venue for entertainment, exhibitions and shopping. The latest trampoline park from Oxygen Freejumping has just opened beneath The O2’s iconic domed roof. www.theo2.co.uk.

Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The Monument

Old Royal Naval College

This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb 311 steps for a view. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717.

E10. Station: Monument.

This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre.

Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org.

King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. 8-18 Nov: Shrouds of the Somme. This huge installation commemorates the centenary of the end of World War I, by placing 72,396 miniature human figures upon a green space in the park.

Entirely created by British artist Rob Heard, each figure is covered with a shroud and represents a serviceman lost during the Battle of the Somme.

You’ll find it next to the ArcelorMittal Orbit, from where you can take in a bird’s-eye view of the piece. Please check website for sporting events.

Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110.

Off map. Station: Stratford.

Royal Albert Hall (p. 33)

For a different view of London take the River Bus

Buy online or pay as you go using Oyster or Contactless from £4.10 Departures every 20 minutes from major London piers

ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ROYAL ALBERT HALL

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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Institution of Great Britain

The Royal Observatory

This Grade I-listed Georgian building houses Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where a fascinating museum about the institution’s east meets west, to take your place at the centre 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its of the world. Uncover the history of Greenwich free Faraday Museum and you will Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and be able to see its scientists at work, timepieces that have changed how we too. Check the website for its live. Once you’ve visited the museum, full programme of talks. Monkick through the autumn leaves in Before the Royal Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; Greenwich Park. Daily 10am-5pm.

Observatory was built charges for talks. www.rigb.org.

Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets in 1675, there was no 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. with Cutty Sark available. Book standardised method T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: online to save. Audio guide tour of measuring Green Park. available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath time Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422.

The Royal Mews Off map. Station: Greenwich.

This month is the last opportunity to visit this SEA LIFE London beautiful part of Buckingham Palace, before As one of Europe’s largest aquariums, its annual two-month closure. The Mews houses this centre on the South Bank near Coca-Cola the Queen’s vehicles and horses and visitors can London Eye features 500 species of global marine witness daily working life here. Learn about the Mews’ fascinating history with the free multimedia life. Highlights include walk-through tank tunnels and a glass walkway above a school of sharks. guide, which includes games, a video of the You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey and admission), while the aquarium’s new Rainforest interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold Adventure attraction is your chance to see State Coach’s interior. Weighing almost four tonnes, snapping turtles and the world’s largest species the coach needs eight horses to draw it and never of spider. You can also see the playful Gentoo moves faster than walking speed. Children will penguins enjoying their icy enclosure. Please enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as taking part in the busy programme of art sessions. check the website for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, To 3 Nov daily 10am-5pm; from 4 Nov Mon-Sat London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and 10am-4pm. Adult £11; child £6.40; under-fives Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. free. www.royalcollection.org.uk/royalmews.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Waterloo.

7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride aboard the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows, where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check the website for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. It’s a vibrant waterside destination, which is lined with regular markets, street food stalls, shops, art galleries and restaurants including CAU, Dokke, Bravas Tapas, Zizzi and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks.co.uk.

50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287.

Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields This landmark Palladian church – which overlooks Trafalgar Square – has tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some of which is free) and a host of art exhibitions. Holy Communion is given daily and classical music is performed weekly by candlelight. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org.

Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

WORK LEARN PLAY KS1-3 Learning through real life activities at KidZania London

TO BOOK CALL OUR TEAM ON 0330 131 3335 OR VISIT WWW.KIDZANIA.CO.UK Located in Westfield London, Shepherd’s Bush

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SIGHTSEEING St Paul’s Cathedral

18 Stafford Terrace

Tower Bridge Exhibition

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery – so called because its acoustics allow you to whisper and be heard from the opposite side of the dome. Walk a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day.

Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

This grand house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who resided here from 1875. A highlight is the costumed actor tours, every Saturday from 11am, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell, for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm-5.30pm, or late tour from 7pm on selected Wednesday evenings; check website for dates.

Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk.

18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames.

Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times, which can be as many as eight times a day. www.towerbridge.org.uk.

Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761.

E11. Station: Tower Hill.

SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House.

From 23 Nov: Tower of London Ice Rink.

Skating returns to the Tower for the festive season, providing the opportunity to take to the ice in the moat next to the boundary wall. Skate sessions Mon-Fri 11am-9pm; Sat-Sun 9am-9pm. Adult £14.50; child £10.50. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free).

Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm.

Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk.

Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11.

Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2.

From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2. co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience.

Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.

The View from The Shard

TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES

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VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION.

Don’t miss the Changing the Guard ceremony (p. 21)

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Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a highspeed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Sun-Mon 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-10pm. Advance adult £24.50, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.the viewfromtheshard.com.

32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111.

E10. Station: London Bridge.

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SIGHTSEEING Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

Big Bus Walking Tours

Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can view sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾.

To 10 Nov: Dark Arts. To celebrate Halloween, the Great Hall is filled with hanging pumpkins and Diagon Alley becomes a scary place.

You can challenge a Death Eater to a wand duel, too.

From 17 Nov: Hogwarts in the Snow. See the Great Hall dressed for the Yule Ball and the Hogwarts model coated in snow, then take a behind-the-scenes look at the various types of snow that were created for filming (p. 21). Please check for times; closed 12-16 Nov. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk.

Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, seeing central areas of the capital that cannot be reached by bus. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 10.30am. www.bigbus tours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753.

Station: Charing Cross.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions.

Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people.

Choose from London tours by day or night, trips

outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you will see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey.

Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours. co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks Walks not offered by other companies, including Fleet Street and Smithfield Market. 10 Nov: Lord Mayor’s Show. After the show, City of London Guide Lecturers will offer free walks nearby.

Meet at Number 1 Poultry (opposite Mansion House), 3pm. Prices range from free to £12.50 (p. 20). www.cityoflondonguides.com. Departure points vary.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, which is the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In June, the Abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millenium, the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, its four displays collectively tell the story of the Abbey through more than 300 objects.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm; closed 3, 8, 9 & 10 Nov. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £22; child £9. Abbey and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £27; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Please check for times and prices. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS CHANGING THE GUARD © VISIT LONDON/PAWEL LIBERA

BEE Midtown Guided Walks There are approximately 10 free, themed walking tours every month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn. The full walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage and tours start at various points in the area. Most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.

Includes Russia, Royalty and the Romanovs and Roger Fenton’s Photographs of the Crimea, 1855

9 November 2018 – 28 April 2019

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours.

A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise.

Adult £37; child £19.40. www.bigbustours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

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SIGHTSEEING Evan Evans

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

Jack the Ripper Tour

This sightseeing company has hosted city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit Bath, Warwick Castle and Stratford-upon-Avon, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Take an Essential Tour with an English-speaking guide, or listen to a multilingual audio commentary, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus.

Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets.

Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours

Hairy Goat Photography Tours

Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience.

Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jackthe-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Tube station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Exploratory photography tours plus tailor-made or regular group workshops during the day or night.

Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the street and river scenes that make London a joy to photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.

Kia Oval Tours Tour the famous ground, which has been the home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and is a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces.

Check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com.

Kia Oval, Kennington Oval, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this tour led by a former cocoa trader. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £40). www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park Tube station, by exit closest to The Ritz hotel.

T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views.

Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, the 18-minute Sights or the 30-minute Max tour.

Prices start at £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. Saturdays 5pm. Tickets £24, booking strongly advised. www.londonliterary pubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Magical Tours This is an award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings.

If you would like to discover the UK at your own pace, you can explore with your own tour team, which includes a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle.

Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.london magicaltours.com.

Departure points vary.

T: 0870-489 0156.

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SIGHTSEEING London Tailored Tours

See London by Night Tour

Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners.

Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, Girls Day Out and A Royal Morning in London. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com.

T: 07498-036295.

Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital.

Regular departures from outside The Ritz hotel.

Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm.

Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com.

150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6.

Station: Green Park.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a separate, candlelit performance space. Tours begin every 30 minutes, Mon

9.30am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm; Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Twizy Tours Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by an entertaining, GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent an adorable Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. Prices from £29.99 per tour. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5.

Station: Marble Arch.

Neverland Children’s Tours Offering fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and over, the aim of Neverland Children’s Tours is to make London sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and make new friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 0203239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

WINDSOR CASTLE

Original London Sightseeing Walk Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops.

Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours

Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues, home to the Royal Ballet company and currently undergoing refurbishment work. A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium, the Royal Retiring Room and even backstage as the Opera House prepares for that evening’s performance.

Backstage Tour most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm; Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour to 23 Nov, selected days 4pm; Covent Garden Legends and Landmarks Tour to 23 Nov, selected days 2pm. £10-£15 per person. www.roh.org.uk/tours.

Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

26 October 2018 – 6 January 2019 A special exhibition at Windsor Castle

10 WEEKS ONLY

©PA

NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY

Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm; no tours 8-10 Nov. Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalbert hall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Book online for guaranteed entry

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SIGHTSEEING Wembley Stadium Tours

Yonda

Football fans should go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue, which is built to hold 80,000 people.

The 75-minute tour takes you inside the players’ dressing rooms, press room, players’ tunnel, pitchside and up to the iconic Royal Box, where you can have your photograph taken with a replica of the world-famous FA Cup. Relive England’s World Cup victory in 1966. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map.

Station: Wembley Park.

On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights and little-known cobbled streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures, while the Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours last 90 minutes. £30 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £40 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Mon-Fri departures 11am-3pm; Sat-Sun departures 11am-3.40pm.

Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london.

Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service.

The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 11.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise.

London Eye Pier, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on-and-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75; children under five travel free.

Adult single journeys from £4.60. www.mbna thamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10.20am-3.30pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11.20am-4.30pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount available Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 0207930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON IMAGES/BRITAIN ON VIEW

MBNA Thames Clippers

For great views, go on Coca-Cola London Eye (p. 24)

Tours available year round Book online or call us on +44 20 7219 4114

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SIGHTSEEING Thamesjet

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Stonehenge

Outdoorsy types will want to try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river. You’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. The minimum height requirement is 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400.

Station: Westminster.

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland and the home of Scottish royal history stands at the end of Edinburgh’s famous Royal Mile, a grand road lined with shops, cafés and restaurants.

The home is set against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the State Apartments, the throne room, paintings in the Great Gallery and Mary, Queen of Scots’ bed chamber. It also has a café that serves afternoon tea. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/palaceofholyrood house. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Walk in the footsteps of Neolithic ancestors at Stonehenge – the world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, which is more than 5,000 years old. 14 Nov: Stonehenge and the Great War. By 1918, some people felt Stonehenge should become a memorial to the dead of the Great War. This talk by Martyn Barber looks at how Stonehenge was understood at the time, its military connections and why it was linked to the idea of remembrance. Check for times. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when Elias Ashmole left his collection to Oxford University. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map.

Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent State Rooms at this Baroque palace, which was the birthplace of World War II prime minister Sir Winston Churchill. Please check for opening times. Adult £27; child £16.50. www.blenheim palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of tranquil parkland by the River Thames. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see Henry’s grand State Apartments including the Great Hall. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle This fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle features an impressive moat, gardens and parkland.

Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display which kids will love. Grounds and garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm.

Adult £25.50; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the town of Windsor – where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle got married in May – and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops. Adult £13; child £7.

Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com.

Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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SIGHTSEEING Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed in May and where Princess Eugenie (ninth in line to the throne) married Jack Brooksbank last month. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. To 6 Jan 2019: A Royal Wedding: The Duke and Duchess of Sussex. See the couple’s wedding outfits on display, including Meghan’s diamond and platinum bandeau tiara. Daily 10am-4.15pm; State Apartments closed 2 Nov. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk/windsorcastle.

Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS Hyde Park Winter Wonderland From 22 Nov: As well as a Bavarian market, traditional fairground and big wheel, there is an enormous outdoor ice rink, a show tent and an immersive cinema experience showing the family film, The Snowman. Daily 10am-10pm. To avoid the crowds, we recommend walking from Green Park, Paddington or Victoria stations if possible. Free admission; pre-booked tickets necessary for some shows. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com.

Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Marble Arch.

Winterville From 15 Nov: Get in the festive spirit at this Christmas festival. Activities include Plonk Golf, ice skating, a fairground and a roller disco, plus a spiegeltent with cabaret and a Street Feast market. Free entry. Clapham Common, Windmill Drive, SW4 9DE. www.winterville.co.uk.

Off map. Station: Clapham Common.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE This image: Laurits Regner Tuxen’s The Family of Queen Victoria in 1887 Below: Fabergé cigarette case from 1903

There was a time when Anglo-Russian relations were incredibly strong and – judging by a new exhibition – perhaps even blissful, says Neil Simpson Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs at The Queen’s Gallery (from 9 Nov; p. 43) turns the clock back to 1698, a very important time for the royal families of Russia and Britain. This was the year during which Tsar Peter I stepped ashore in England, and was the first Russian royal to visit. It had been a long time coming: courageous London merchants first set sail for Russia in 1553 (they were looking for Asia) and had been trading ever since.

With this first visit by a Russian head of state, the British royal family discovered an exciting new social circle with whom to trade incredible art. The Royal Collection has picked out some of these pieces for its new exhibition.

The star of the show is a sensational ensational 1887 painting of Queen Victoria,, surrounded by her family (above), which is the work of Laurits Regner Tuxen. The Dane was a favourite artist of the British, Russian and

Danish royal families, and he was commissioned to mark Victoria’s 50th year on the throne. The dynamic scene of more than 50 people brims with staggering detail and gorgeous highlighting work.

If you’re a bit of a magpie, you’ll find some extremely shiny items to catch your eye: pieces by Peter Carl Fabergé. He had become the Russian Imperial Crown’s appointed goldsmith by the late 19th century and, as the royal families became closer, Fabergé’s creations were suitably lavish gifts.

The House of Fabergé opened a London branch in 1903, the same year King Edward VII was presented with the exhibition’s gold cigarette case, to mark his 40th wedding anniversary. A Fabergé Siberian amethyst brooch is also on display; it was given to the Princess of Wales (who became Queen Mary Mary) in 1909.

This alluring blend of extravagant royals, British pageantry and Russian drama is sure to make for a thrilling sight.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY During the summer, a new space opened above the altar in Westminster Abbey: the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. As well as offering jaw-dropping views of the nave below, the galleries display centuries of royal treasures, such as Ralph Heimans’ 2012 portrait of the Queen (above) – so huge that it had to be brought in through a window. www.westminster-abbey.org

THE WALLACE COLLECTION This collection originates with the Marquesses of Hertford, who obsessively hoarded art. The 4th Marquess gave all of it to his illegitimate son, Richard Wallace, whose wife eventually gave it to Britain in 1897. It’s an incredible display, presented in Marylebone’s grand Hertford House. You’ll find plenty of Russian royalty in residence here, such as an Austrian 1850 portrait of Catherine the Great, who was Empress of Russia from 1762 until 1796. www.wallacecollection.org

LAURITS REGNER TUXEN’S THE FAMILY OF QUEEN VICTORIA IN 1887 AND FABERGÉ CIGARETTE CASE © THE ROYAL COLLECTION; THE CORONATION THEATRE, WESTMINSTER ABBEY: A PORTRAIT OF HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II COURTESY OF WESTMINSTER ABBEY

Keeping it in the family

Royal art

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel and more. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tours from 11am onwards (check for dates and times). Museum open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; check for matchrelated closures. Self-guided: adult £23; child £15.

Legends: adult from £40; child from £20. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours.

Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours

Fashion and Textile Museum

Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelsea fc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org.

83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664.

F11. Station: London Bridge.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms, where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 0207930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum Explore the story of the bank from In this former prison its foundation in 1694, to its status that dates back to 1144, hands-on today as the UK’s central bank.

Between 1900 and 1933, exhibits reveal London’s gruesome 10 Nov: Lord Mayor’s Show. After The British Museum had penal past. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; watching the grand procession its own Tube station, Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; outside, bring your children which was reputed child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. to a Wind in the Willows-themed to be haunted 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. face-painting event (p. 20). Mon-Fri E10. Station: London Bridge.

10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum.

The Design Museum Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545.

One of the world’s leading museums of modern D10. Station: Bank. design and architecture. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri Benjamin Franklin House This 18th-century townhouse was the last remaining home of the American diplomat and Founding Father. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; Historical Experience show Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm.

Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical Experience: adult £8; child free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Body Worlds

IVORY PLAQUE OF A LIONESS MAULING A MAN © THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM

This museum, which specialises in the human body, is located inside the London Pavilion.

Two hundred exhibits reveal how the human body works. Sun-Thur 9.30am-7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm.

Advance adult £24.50, child £17.50; on the day adult £29, child £22. www.bodyworlds.co.uk.

The London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of treasures including the Elgin Marbles and Rosetta Stone.

From 8 Nov: I am Ashurbanipal: King of the World, King of Assyria. The story of Ashurbanipal, who ruled the vast, ancient empire of Assyria until 627 BC. To 20 Jan: I Object: Ian Hislop’s Search for Dissent. The British satirist curates this exhibition, which highlights voices of protest. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Russell Square.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist.

From 28 Nov: Food Glorious Food: Dinner with Dickens. The house is dressed for Christmas and the dining room is set for a festive dinner. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with examples from the 12th century to the present day. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Florence Nightingale Museum Learn about the work of the pioneering British nurse. It also tells the story of Jamaican nurse Mary Seacole. Free 15-min tour Mon-Fri 3.30pm; Sat-Sun 11.30am & 3.30pm. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk.

2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400.

F8. Station: Waterloo.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Guards Museum Discover the history and stories of the Changing the Guard ceremony. Daily 10am-4pm; closed 11 Nov. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com.

Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.

Horniman Museum & Gardens See the collection of the adventurous Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman.

To 6 Jan 2019: Yamal: The Stream of Life. Images of Siberia’s largest indigenous group are on display.

Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman. ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872.

Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

King of the world Go back in time to a world of Babylonians, Hittites and Mesopotamians at The British Museum’s ’s exhibition on the empire of Assyria. I Am Ashurbanipal: King of the World, King of Assyria (from 8 Nov) tells the story of one mighty man, who ruled a vast kingdom from his throne in what is now called Iraq. An educated man and an expert in self-promotion, Ashurbanipal appointed himself the king of the world until his death destroyed the empire in 627 BC. Items on display have been drawn from across the world, including the Museo Gregoriano Etrusco in the Vatican City. If you were dismayed to see the recent destruction of historical sites in Iraq, this is a great chance to appreciate what has been lost, as well as learn about projects to salvage what’s left.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES House of Illustration

Leighton House Museum

The restored former home of Frederic, Lord The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely Leighton is now a museum of his life and work. to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake.

Permanent collections include paintings, To 4 Nov: John Vernon Lord: drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall Illustrating Carroll and Joyce. An exploration adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle of the esteemed British illustrator’s recent East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm, tour every work on Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, Finnegan’s Wake and Ulysses.

Wed and Sun (included in ticket price).

From 9 Nov: Journeys Drawn: Adult £9; child £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk.

Illustration from the Refugee Crisis.

12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. Thirteen illustrators display work T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Tate Modern art gallery, inspired by recent journeys made Kensington Olympia. which is housed in the by refugees, such as drawings of former Bankside Power London Film Museum the ‘Jungle’ in Calais and animations Station, has a chimney Bond in Motion is the largest by an Iranian political refugee. Adult that is 99m tall official exhibition of James Bond £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. vehicles that feature in the renowned www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary film series, including the classic Aston Martin Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map.

DB5, Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce, the Crocodile Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Submarine and the ‘Wet Nellie’ Lotus Esprit Household Cavalry Museum S1. Every item displayed has been used in the Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties 24 James Bond films. It also features unique and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. artwork from the production company. Daily Troopers with their horses work in the original 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily London Mithraeum 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.house holdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, On the site of Bloomberg’s new European headquarters in the City, this cultural hub showcases SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment. an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras.

Imperial War Museum The remains are brought to life through an Huge displays relating to global conflicts from immersive, multi-sensory experience, and you World War I to contemporary confrontations, can see artefacts found during the excavation. particularly those involving Britain. Don’t miss the Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm; Holocaust Exhibition, and the art collection in the first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free.

First World War Galleries. The museum’s current www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N Making a New World season marks 100 years since 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank. the end of World War I. Special exhibitions to look out for include Renewal: Life after the First World War in Photographs, as well as artist John Akomfrah’s installation about Africans who were involved in the war. Visit I Was There: Room of Voices to hear more than 30 interviewees recount the moment The Royal Academy of Arts’ when they found out that the war was over (p. 10). new show combines beauty, Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. nudity, tragedy and greatness, Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. all within the most humble of Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

London Transport Museum This museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses and the world’s first Underground steam train. Enjoy historic posters in the Poster Girls exhibition, which highlights London Transport artwork by female artists. Digging Deeper charts the history of tunnel-digging across the capital and London’s current Crossrail project. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.lt museum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising See more than 12,000 items from the Robert Opie Collection, which reveal how lives have changed over the past 200 years through iconic consumer brands. Exhibits include toys, magazines, technology, travel and fashion.

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm.

Adult £8.18; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com.

111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611.

Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

Museum of London The museum has thousands of exhibits, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history. 10 Nov: London at War. Family day marking 100 years since the end of World War I, including actors in costume, workshops and storytelling (p. 10).

To 11 Nov: London Nights. This photography exhibition depicts the capital after dark from the late 19th century to the modern day.

Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumof london.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Jack the Ripper Museum More than just an exploration of Jack the Ripper’s terrible crimes, within this Victorian house you’ll also discover the history of east London during the 1880s. Explore six floors of rooms which recreate key scenes from the serial killer’s infamous rampage, including Whitechapel police station and a mortuary. The displays invite you to play detective on a case that remains unsolved to this day. Be warned: much of the content here is not for the faint-hearted. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jacktherippermuseum.com.

12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map.

Station: Aldgate East/Tower Hill.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the East End’s Jewish immigrant quarter. To 24 Feb: Roman Vishniac Rediscovered.

Showcasing the work of Vishniac, who documented the lives of Jews in Eastern Europe between the world wars. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk.

Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

formats: drawings on paper.

Klimt / Schiele: Drawings from the Albertina Museum, Vienna (from 4 Nov; p. 43) is anything but humble, though, as it concerns two of Austria’s most celebrated artists. These works by Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele are on loan from the Albertina Museum in Vienna, the city in which both men died within months of each other a century ago. Almost 30 years younger than his mentor, Schiele’s talent meant that he was thought of as Klimt’s successor, especially after Klimt’s death in February 1918. By November, Schiele had also died, aged 28.

See self-portraits, landscapes and photos, including a Klimt sketch depicting the embraces that made The Kiss so famous.

EGON SCHIELE’S GROUP OF THREE GIRLS, 1911 © ALBERTINA MUSEUM, VIENNA, COURTESY OF ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS

Double act

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum of London Docklands The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Ten galleries include London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade, and Sailortown, with its 19th-century alleyways. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844.

Off map. Station: West India Quay.

National Army Museum Interactive displays and exhibitions telling the story of soldiers’ lives from Tudor times to the present day. 7 Nov: Museum Late: Centenary Remembrance. To honour the centenary of the Armistice, the museum’s monthly late-night event pays tribute to those lost during World War I. From 30 Nov: Alfred Munnings: War Artist.

Renowned for his depictions of horses, Munnings’ World War I paintings are showcased in this exhibition. Open daily 10am-5.30pm and until 8pm on the first Wed of every month. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk.

Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

National Maritime Museum Get up close to the objects that made history – from iconic maritime exhibits to great British art – at the world’s largest maritime museum. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk.

Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map.

Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Sister, sister Using Thomas Gainsborough’s daughters as a starting point, the National Portrait Gallery will reveal the private life of one of Britain’s best-loved portrait artists through more than 50 family paintings. The new show, Gainsborough’s Family Album (from 22 Nov; p. 42), displays the 12 portraits of the 18th-century artist’s daughters that are known to exist. This atmospheric collection demonstrates just how good Mary and Margaret were at posing: The Artist’s Daughters with a Cat (right) depicts the sisters on the edge of adolescence, brimming with self-confident attitude and cradling an agitated, half-painted cat. It’s intriguing to see such modern human behaviour reflected back from a picture painted in the 1760s.

PAINTER’S DAUGHTERS WITH A CAT BY THOMAS GAINSBOROUGH © THE NATIONAL GALLERY

EGON SCHIELE’S GROUP OF THREE GIRLS, 1911 © ALBERTINA MUSEUM, VIENNA, COURTESY OF ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS

Natural History Museum See astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 3 Jun 2019: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. See this year’s shortlist of 100 entries, representing the very best in nature photography from more than 45,000 submissions.

To 6 Jan 2019: Life in the Dark. Discover how animals have adapted to continue living in the very darkest corners of our planet. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Postal Museum This museum tells the story of the ‘first social network’, with thousands of fascinating exhibits exploring postal history, including old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms, plus weapons used to protect the delivery service. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels which was used to transport post for 75 years until 2003.

Daily 10am-5pm. Museum only: adult £11; child free. Museum and Mail Rail: adult £17.05; child £10.45. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Queen’s House Located in the heart of Greenwich, this delightful royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones and is a pioneering masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. These days, you can enjoy the spectacular art inside the venue and learn about the architecture and royal history of the house.

Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tours. www.rmg.co.uk. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet and the chance to climb inside selected aircrafts. The newly redesigned site now includes two galleries, landscaped grounds, picnic areas and a children’s playground. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Science Museum

Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837 and has been untouched since. It houses his amazing collection, which he amassed from around the world, plus his own architectural drawings (view by appointment) and Hogarth’s satirical artworks.

To 18 Nov: The Architecture Drawing Prize. The second edition of this award celebrates architectural talent demonstrated both through hand-drawn and digital methods. Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

A huge, family-friendly museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements. There’s a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX theatre showing 3D science films, while permanent galleries include Making the Modern World, with Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 command module.

To 6 May 2019: The Sun: Living with our Star. See more than 100 objects which demonstrate how the sun has been harnessed by humans, as well as videos, animations and a real solarium. Daily 10am-6pm; adult-only Lates programme last Wed of every month, 6.45pm-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the Thames houses the Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. There is an ice rink in winter (p. 22).

To 3 Mar 2019: Good Grief, Charlie Brown! Fans of Charles M. Schulz’s Peanuts will enjoy this look at his original works, which are displayed alongside contemporary art and design inspired by the cartoon. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

Sherlock Holmes Museum

Twinings Museum

Visit the famous address dedicated to the fictional detective where, according to the novels, he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 until 1904. The Victorian house has been maintained exactly as described in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. C5. Station: Baker Street.

The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511.

D9. Station: Temple.

Somerset House

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century, plus Rachel Whiteread’s celebrated artwork, Place (Village). To 22 Apr 2019: A Pirate’s Life for Me. A pirate ship is at the heart of the display, surrounded by toys, games, books and comics.

Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam. ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 0208983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics.

To 24 Feb 2019: Videogames: Design/Play/Disrupt.

Exploring videogame design influences, as well as the cultural impact gaming has had on the world.

To 18 Nov: Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up. Celebrating the late Mexican artist’s highly styled life, by displaying her clothes and possessions for the first time outside of Mexico.

To 4 Nov: The Future Starts Here.

Discover the innovations that are aiming to change our world in the not-too-distant future.

To 27 Jan 2019: Fashioned from Nature. A display of innovative new fabrics, contemporary fashion and natural history specimens, designed to provoke discussion on the sustainability of fashion.

To 25 Nov: Jameel Prize 5. See the work of eight artists and designers, all inspired

by Islam. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 0207942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities A tiny basement museum in a former shop turned bar, displaying weird and wonderful items. Expect to see quirky artwork, ephemera, taxidermy and erotica – some explicit. Look out for unusual events and courses. Tue 3pm-10.30pm; WedSun noon-10.30pm. Adult £6; child £3. www.the lasttuesdaysociety.org. 1 Mare St, E8 4RP. T: 0207998 3617. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, plus Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. 23 Nov: Takeover Day. The museum’s Young Curators, from St Vincent’s Primary School in west London, take over the museum’s front-of-house roles for the day; join in as they lead a free guided tour at 1pm.

To 6 Jan 2019: Sir Richard Wallace: The Collector.

The inaugural show in a new exhibition space explores the life of the museum’s founder, Sir Richard Wallace, on the 200th anniversary of his birth. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org.

Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, which is the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome and features eye-popping antique medical equipment. Regular talks and tours. To 3 Mar 2019: Living with Buildings. Exploring the relationship between human health and the spaces in which we live. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent champions, touch screens to watch past greats in action and more. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child with every adult ticket. www.wimbledon.com.

All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

World Rugby Museum Relaunched for 2018 following a refurbishment, this showcase for global rugby culture is located in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. Expect items from early 20th-century Welsh national teams, the 1924 New Zealand side and the 2003 England team. Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Museum adult £12.50; child £7.50.

Museum and stadium tour adult £25; child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 27 Jan 2019: Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-Garde. Celebrating creatives who became more than friends, including Pablo Picasso and Dora Maar. Barbican Centre Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 11am-11pm. Art Gallery Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur-Fri 10am-9pm. The Curve Sat-Wed 11am-8pm; Thur-Fri 11am-9pm.

Please check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk.

Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Hayward Gallery This recently refurbished gallery is the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre, with regular, contemporary exhibitions. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for some exhibitions. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a bar and restaurant, a bookshop and a cinema. ICA galleries Tue-Sun noon-9pm; ICA building Tue-Thur & Sun noon-11pm; Fri-Sat noon-midnight. Adult £1; child free; no admission fee Tue. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Charing Cross.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works

by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Regular guided tours and talks.

From 5 Nov: Lorenzo Lotto Portraits.

Collaborating with Madrid’s Museo Nacional del Prado, the gallery showcases the much-loved, individualistic style of this Italian Renaissance artist. To 27 Jan 2019: Mantegna and Bellini.

Exploring the work of two celebrated Renaissance artists. The show suggests that neither would have achieved such greatness without the other.

To 20 Jan 2019: Courtauld Impressionists: From Manet to Cézanne. As the Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House embarks on its two-year redevelopment, its Impressionist and Post-Impressionist highlights are being displayed. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery

With access to the Getty archive of 70 million photographs, this modern gallery displays and sells shots from as far back as the 1850s, while aiming to celebrate the best in contemporary photography.

Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat noon-5.30pm. Admission free. www.gettyimagesgallery.com. 46 Eastcastle St, W1W 8DX. T: 020-7291 5380. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

One of the nation’s most prominent galleries: it is more than 150 years old and displays famous British people in paintings and photographs.

From 22 Nov: Gainsborough’s Family Album.

Uniting 12 portraits of the British artist’s daughters (p. 41). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Guildhall Art Gallery

Newport Street Gallery

Getty Images Gallery

Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite works. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, excavated in 1988.

From 23 Nov: Seen and Heard: Victorian Children in the Frame. See artworks that depict childhood during the 19th century. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm.

Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700.

D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

The Sun: Living with our Star at the Science Museum shows how humans harness the sun (p. 41)

Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from the modern artist’s art collection and includes his restaurant, which is styled to resemble a pharmacy.

Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography.

To 24 Feb 2019: All I Know Is What’s on the Internet.

Internet Exploring how the internet is changing photography.

Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

THE ORIGINAL ORRERY, 1712 © SCIENCE MUSEUM GROUP

V&A Museum of Childhood

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The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures in the Royal Collection.

From 9 Nov: Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs.

Examining the strong bond that developed between the British and Russian royal family (p. 38).

Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection works in all media. Over the summer the site completed its bold redevelopment project.

From 4 Nov: Klimt / Schiele: Drawings from the Albertina Museum, Vienna. Drawings on paper, which demonstrate the working relationship of Austrian artist Egon Schiele and his mentor, Gustav Klimt (p. 40). To 10 Dec: Oceania. Exploring the varied art of the region, to commemorate 250 years since Captain Cook’s voyage to the Pacific. To 20 Jan 2019: Renzo Piano: The Art of Making Buildings. Celebrating The Shard architect’s most impressive designs. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Society of Sculptors Located within Old Brompton Road’s Dora House, this hub for professional sculptors hosts a regular series of sculpture exhibitions. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat 1pm-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors. org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 0207373 8615. Off map Station: Gloucester Road.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building. All exhibitions are temporary, and usually free. Daily 11am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk.

Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Southbank Centre This sprawling arts centre is home to the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall and the recently renovated Hayward Gallery and Purcell Room. Check the Southbank Centre’s website for the full programme. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 24 Feb 2019: Edward Burne-Jones. See this British artist’s paintings, tapestries and stained-glass works, which are inspired by Greek myths and Biblical legends. To 6 Jan 2019: Turner Prize 2018. Honouring the four British artists who have been shortlisted.

Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

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Tate Modern See world-class, modern art on display in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 24 Feb 2019: Hyundai Commission: Tania Bruguera. The latest work to take over the Turbine Hall is by Bruguera, who is known for cultivating political activism. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Melody makers From songs with a political edge, to an a cappella piece that blends comical noises with an invented language, there’s more to the EFG London Jazz Festival than you might think, says Sarah Riches Caribbean spirit while performing Windrush Suite by saxophonist and composer Jason Yarde at the Barbican (17 Nov).

Leyla McCalla honours her ancestry at Cadogan Hall (20 Nov). McCalla spent two years with Carolina Chocolate Drops after moving to New Orleans, and her music explores themes of social justice and a pan-African consciousness. She sings alongside Mélissa Laveaux, who left Canada in 2016 to honour her Haitian ancestry and create her album Radyo Siwei.

One of South Korea’s great voices, Youn Sun Nah (below), plays a rare London concert at Queen Elizabeth Hall (20 Nov).

Don’t miss Bobby McFerrin’s Circlesongs at the Barbican (18 Nov). The Grammy Award winner – best known for Don’t Worry, Be Happy – is inspired by beatboxers. He’ll be joined by the a cappella group Voicestra as they combine comical noises, invented language, silence and laughter.

Finally, the final of the BBC Young Jazz Musician at Queen Elizabeth Hall (24 Nov) is a great chance to discover new talent. www.efglondonjazzfestival.org.uk

Join the club

JAZZ CAFE Since this Camden spot (above) opened in 1990, it has showcased emerging and famous performers including Ben E King and Amy Winehouse. Dinner is optional. www.thejazzcafelondon.com

RONNIE SCOTT’S JAZZ CLUB This Soho institution opened in 1959 and has hosted the likes of legends Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald and Jimi Hendrix. You can sit at tables to watch a show downstairs or dance to a gig or DJs upstairs. www.ronniescotts.co.uk

Youn Sun Nah Quintet

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

One of the world’s biggest celebrations of jazz returns to London in the form of the EFG London Jazz Festival (16-25 Nov). Now in its 26th year, the festival takes place at major music venues, giving you the chance to listen to big names and emerging talent.

The festival launches with an opening night gala, Jazz Voice, at the Royal Festival Hall (16 Nov). This year, Guy Barker’s 42-piece orchestra will perform.

You may recognise Lea DeLaria from the TV series Orange is the New Black .

As an established jazz musician, she sings hits from her record, House of David, in a rare show at the Bridge Theatre (18 Nov).

Some of the performances are designed to make you think. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the docking of MV Empire Windrush, which brought migrants from Jamaica, Trinidad, Tobago and elsewhere to the UK to fill a labour shortage caused

by World War II – this helped to create a multicultural Britain. Anthony Joseph, the British-Trinidadian poet, novelist and musician, explores the Caribbean diaspora in the UK and celebrates the triumph of the

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet.

Just how do they do that? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdin themusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Bat Out of Hell This brilliant Meat Loaf jukebox musical returns to London. Set in the dark post-apocalyptic world of Obsidian, it features motorbikes, cars and flames on stage. It’s got all your favourite hits, including Two Out of Three Ain’t Bad and You Took the Words Right Out of My Mouth. By the end, you’ll be on your feet and cheering. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£150. www.batoutofhellmusical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints.

Winner of four Olivier Awards, including Best New Musical. Please check for times. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.book ofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7.

Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

YOUN SUN NAH © UNG YULL; JAZZ CAFE COURTESY OF JAZZ CAFE; DON QUIXOTE © HELEN MAYBANKS

Chicago the Musical

Making a knight of it David Threlfall and Rufus Hound star in the Royal Shakespeare Company’s Don Quixote at the Garrick Theatre (p. 48). Based on Miguel de Cervantes’ 17th-century Spanish comic novel, this play premiered at Stratford-uponAvon’s Swan Theatre in 2016.

Filled with music, this joyous, family-friendly show follows the duo as they go on a chivalrous adventure across medieval Spain to rescue the needy and defeat evil. Wearing armour, brandishing swords and accompanied by a downtrodden yet loyal servant, the pair are unprepared for what lies ahead and the expedition turns into a calamitous farce.

Dreamgirls

Hamilton

To 12 Jan 2019: This musical follows the tumultuous

Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical has been a multi-award-winning hit on Broadway.

It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s Founding Father Alexander Hamilton, a poor, orphaned immigrant born in the Caribbean. Please check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138.

F6. Station: Victoria.

journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago.

It features hits including the ballad And I Am Telling You I’m Not Going. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£175. www.savoytheatre.org.

Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

You’ll come for the jazz and stay for the dark comedy and lively dance numbers in this 1920s musical, which is about two women accused of murdering their husbands. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie

Company

42nd Street

To 22 Dec: Marianne Elliott directs this Broadway

Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression.

Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams who’s stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady, Dorothy, gets injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

musical, which features Stephen Sondheim’s hits – The Ladies Who Lunch, Being Alive and Side by Side.

It follows Bobbie (Rosalie Craig) on her 35th birthday party as all her friends are wondering why she hasn’t settled down, got married and had kids. In the continuing trend for gender-swapping roles, the lead, Bobby, is reimagined for the first time as a woman. Also stars Patti LuPone and Mel Giedroyc. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

Divine Proportions To 12 Jan 2019: A night of wining, dining and

entertainment inspired by the story of Dionysus – think masked dancers, a magical cabaret, riddles and hidden passages. The Vaults, a network of dark tunnels beneath Waterloo Station, is the perfect venue for it. Please check for times.

Over-18s. Tickets £35-£55. www.thevaults.london.

The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603.

F8. Station: Waterloo.

Set on a council estate in northern England, this feel-good musical follows 16-year-old Jamie as he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk.

Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E8. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hadestown From 2 Nov: Catch this musical before it heads to Broadway (p. 48). Songwriter Orpheus and his muse Eurydice fall in love in summer, but as winter approaches, reality sets in: they can’t survive on songs alone. Eurydice is lured to the depths of industrial Hadestown. On a quest to save her, Orpheus journeys to the underworld where their trust is put to a final test. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£67. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Heathers the Musical To 24 Nov: This dark comedy, set in a high school, is based on the cult 1980s film which starred Christian Slater and Winona Ryder. It features new songs and stars Carrie Hope Fletcher (Les Misérables, Addams Family Tour) as Veronica. Under-14s must be accompanied by an adult. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£75. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hot Gay Time Machine From 27 Nov: A hit at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, this award-winning comical cabaret follows the most important moments in a gay man’s life, from coming out to his mum to navigating the naked politics of the school locker room. Suitable for over-18s. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com.

Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

Kinky Boots Fun, feel-good musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk.

Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross. www.wheretraveler.com 45

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La Tragedie de Carmen

Mamma Mia!

School of Rock: The Musical

13-14 Nov: A reimagining of Bizet’s famous

A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrock themusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

masterpiece, by Peter Brook. The intense and tragic tale of the four characters who lie at the heart of the original story plays out in a thought-provoking drama of love and jealousy. 7.30pm. Tickets £20. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk.

Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Liza Pulman Sings Streisand To 11 Nov: Acclaimed singer and comedian Liza Pulman celebrates the legendary Barbra Streisand with her band. 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£45. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140.

F7. Station: Victoria.

Looking for Gatsby 12-14 Nov: Picking up where F Scott Fitzgerald’s novel The Great Gatsby ended, Jay Gatsby’s lover, Daisy, needs to confront the past in order to move on. 8pm. Tickets £12.50-£15. www.theotherpalace. co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. F7. Station: Victoria.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers.

A five-year-old girl with the gift of telekinesis, who loves reading, overcomes obstacles caused by her family and school. It was adapted by Dennis Kelly, with music and lyrics by Tim Minchin. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm.

Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com.

Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com.

Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House.

With music by Andrew Lloyd Webber and lyrics

by Charles Hart. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomofthe opera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s amazing career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina: The Tina Turner Musical This musical is based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become the queen of rock ‘n’ roll – Tina Turner. Expect hits including the 1984 hit What’s Love Got to Do with It? – which won four Grammy Awards – as well as River Deep – Mountain High, A Fool in Love and, of course, The Best. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£149.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8.

Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

The Trench To 17 Nov: Olivier Awardnominated Les Enfants Terribles bring their signature style of visual storytelling to the stage in this World War I epic, which blends live music, puppetry and physical performance. It’s based on a true story of a miner who became entombed underground in a collapsed tunnel. 3pm & 7.30pm.

Tickets £20. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk.

Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Twelfth Night To 17 Nov: William Shakespeare gets a shake-up as soulful melodies and R&B beats weave through this enchanting musical adaptation of Twelfth Night. Viola and her twin Sebastian wash up on the shores of Illyria and when she disguises herself as a man, a joyous whirlwind of gender-bending and unrequited love begins. Tickets £10-£40. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9.

Station: Waterloo.

Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk.

Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

The all-male dance company BalletBoyz is returning to London to perform Young Men at Wilton’s Music Hall (13-17 Nov). Choreographed by Iván Pérez, the show blends dance, film and a live score by the singer-songwriter Keaton Henson. The performance chronicles the experiences of young soldiers fighting in World War I. It’s set against a backdrop of a moving film made by the troupe, which was broadcast on BBC TV, making BalletBoyz the first dance company to present a feature film. The show is part of 14-18 NOW, a UK-wide programme to mark 100 years since the Armistice was signed.

1 Graces Alley, E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. www.wiltons.org.uk. Off map.

Station: Tower Hill/Shadwell

PLAYS A Pupil To 24 Nov: In a dilapidated north London bedsit, disgraced former violinist Ye is preparing to end her life. The surprise arrival of Simona, an aspiring musician and wealthy heiress, throws her plans into disarray. Together the pair embark on a series of lessons that will test the limits of friendship, music and success. Please check for times. Tickets £14.50-£18. www.park theatre.co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.

YOUNG MEN © BALLETBOYZ

Dance to the death

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ENTERTAINMENT

To 19 Jan 2019: This world premiere is a story about

the children’s author Hans Christian Andersen.

But the true source of his stories dwells in his attic upstairs, her existence a dark secret kept from the outside world. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets: £15-£65. www.bridgetheatre.co.uk.

Bridge Theatre, 3 Potters Field Park, SE1 2SG. T: 0333-320 0051. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Antony & Cleopatra To 19 Jan 2019: Ralph Fiennes and Sophie Okonedo play the ill-fated couple in this critically acclaimed version of Shakespeare’s tragedy. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.

National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong.

Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time From 29 Nov: This award-winning play, based on Mark Haddon’s novel of the same name, returns to London. It follows an autistic boy as he searches for a missing dog. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Please check for prices. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Don Quixote To 2 Feb 2019: After a lifetime of reading books on

chivalry, an eccentric old man heads off on a quest to become a knight, accompanied by his faithful yet equally ill-suited servant. This comedy was previously at the Swan Theatre in Stratford-uponAvon (p. 45). Please check for times. Tickets from £12. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673.

E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Check for times.

Tickets £67.50-£74.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com.

Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Foxfinder To 5 Jan 2019: Olivier Award-winner Iwan Rheon (Game of Thrones) stars alongside a cast of TV regulars in this West End premiere of Dawn King’s dystopian thriller. England is in crisis: fields are flooded, food is scarce and fear of the red beast grips the land. William Bloor, a foxfinder, arrives at Judith and Samuel Covey’s farm to investigate a suspected fox infestation. The Coveys’ harvest has failed to meet their target and the government wants to know why. Trained from childhood, William is fixated on his mission to unearth the animals that must be to blame for the Coveys’ woes. But as the hunt progresses, William finds more questions than answers. Please check for times and prices. www.theambassadorstheatre. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Into the abyss A new musical that’s been a hit in Canada is coming to the National Theatre. Directed by Rachel Chavkin, Hadestown (from 2 Nov; p. 45) has been reworked, but it still features catchy music and lyrics by the singer/ songwriter Anaïs Mitchell that will get your feet tapping and fingers clicking.

Inspired by an Ancient Greek myth, this modern version follows poor songwriter and guitarist Orpheus and his muse Eurydice as they fall in love one summer to a soundtrack of American folk, vintage New Orleans jazz and big band swing. As winter approaches, Eurydice goes looking for work in Hadestown, a mythical underground industrial town. But the town – ruled by Hades – isn’t the safe, prosperous place Eurydice imagined.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

King Lear

The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story has already won many awards. Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted.

Most tickets are sold out, so please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com.

Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

To 3 Nov: Ian McKellen stars as a mad king in the title role of this Shakespeare tragedy. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£145. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Height of the Storm To 1 Dec: This new play stars Jonathan Pryce

(Miss Saigon, Evita, Tomorrow Never Dies) and Dame Eileen Atkins, a three-time Olivier Award winner.

André and Madeleine have been in love for more than 50 years. This weekend, as their daughters visit, something feels unusual. A bunch of flowers arrives, but who sent them? A woman from the past turns up, but who is she? Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.

Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Inheritance To 5 Jan 2019: Following a sold-out run at the Young Vic, Matthew Lopez’s major two-part world premiere arrives in the West End, directed by the Olivier Award-winner Stephen Daldry. It is already being hailed as a modern classic. A generation after the peak of the AIDs crisis, this play follows a young gay man in New York. Suitable for over-14s. Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.

Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Jungle To 3 Nov: It’s impossible not to empathise with refugees when you become one, at this semi-immersive show which is set in a refugee camp. It has transferred to the West End following a sell-out run at the Young Vic. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£69.50. www.atg tickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. E8.

Station: Embankment.

Landscape/A Kind of Alaska/Monologue To 8 Dec: Three shows in one: Landscape is a minimalist marvel. A woman is locked in a beautiful memory and her husband demands to be heard. In a Kind of Alaska, Deborah awakes from a 29-year sleep and is suspended between the conscious and unconscious worlds. Lee Evans performs the poignant Monologue and a selection of Pinter’s comical sketches. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Only Fools: The (Cushty) Dining Experience From 2 Nov: This immersive show is a tribute to the much-loved sitcom, Only Fools and Horses.

It transports audiences to Peckham for a night of wheeling, dealing and eating. Tickets include a meal. Check for times and prices. www.interactive theatre.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian Grafton, 30 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 5AY. T: 0845-1544 145.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

HADESTOWN COURTESY OF NATIONAL THEATRE

A Very Very Very Dark Matter

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ENTERTAINMENT Shakespeare and Remembrance

Cadogan Hall

Wigmore Hall

11 Nov: On the centenary of Armistice Day, attend

13 Nov: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. Pieces by

17 Nov: Schumann and Fauré. 7.30pm. Tickets

an evening of performances that pit Shakespeare’s imagined experience of war against the realities of 21st-century military life. 7pm. Tickets £10-£25. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401.

9919. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Wagner, Mendelssohn and Tchaikovsky. 7.30pm.

Tickets £15-£40. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

£18-£50. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London’s premier music hall, home to the annual BBC Proms. 6 Nov: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra.

Musical Landscapes. Listen to classical music which is inspired by the great outdoors, from Elgar to Vaughan Williams. 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£40. www.royalalberthall.com.

Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.

G4. Station: South Kensington.

To 28 Nov: How do you have a baby when you’re 39 and single? This is the story of Anna. This funny and touching new play is filled with unexpected characters and curious plot twists. Check for times. Tickets £15-£55. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, Every performance SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. of Les Misérables Station: Waterloo.

True West From 23 Nov: Kit Harington

uses 392 costumes, including 31 wigs

(Game of Thrones) and Johnny Flynn (Beast, Genius) star as warring brothers Austin and Lee in the West End premiere of Pulitzer Prize-winner Sam Shepard’s classic. Austin is working on a film script which he has sold to producer Saul. But Lee pitches his own idea to Saul, tearing the family apart. Mon-Sat 7pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Please check for prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk.

Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8.

Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

Royal Festival Hall 20 Nov: Requiem. Verdi’s choral

masterpiece. 7.30pm. Tickets £10-£60. www.southbankcentre. co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Royal Albert Hall 4 Nov: Michael Bolton. 16-18 Nov: Star Wars: A New Hope in Concert (p. 7). 27 Nov: Billy Ocean. Please

check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com.

Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Jazz Cafe This live music venue and club specialises in jazz and funk. 5 Nov: A Night of R&B. 9 Nov: Rael.

14 Nov: Poppy Ajudha. 16 Nov: Jungle by Night.

18 Nov: Nearly Dan. 19-20 Nov: Richard Bona.

Please check for times and prices. www.thejazz cafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 2-3 Nov: Andrea Bocelli. 4 Nov: Childish Gambino. 20 Nov: Jess Glynne. 21-22 Nov: Florence + The Machine.

23-24 Nov: Nitro Circus. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club

Theatre debut, and after being played to seven million people in 11 countries, War Horse returns to the National Theatre to mark the centenary of Armistice Day. Please check for times and returns. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

This is London’s most famous jazz venue, which has a history dating back to 1959 (p. 44). 20-21 Nov: Jazzmeia Horn. 26-28 Nov: Lucky Peterson.

29-30 Nov: Pee Wee Ellis. It also has Sunday jazz brunches to boogie-woogie, jive and American classics. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Witness for the Prosecution

DANCE

War Horse From 8 Nov: Eleven years after its National

This new show is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama, Witness for the Prosecution,, and is staged in a former courtroom.

Directed by Lucy Bailey, the audience acts as the jury for Leonard Vole, who is accused of murdering a widow to inherit her wealth. Tickets from £10-£75. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/ Westminster.

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.the womaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 11 Nov: London Symphony Orchestra/FrancoisXavier Roth: Nelson Mass. Three masterpieces by Haydn, Bartok and Ligeti. 7pm. Check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Barbican 18 Nov: Inua Ellams Pit Party. The poet/playwright Inua Ellams hosts a double bill, mingling hip-hop, dance, recital and film with the 1979 cult classic The Warriors serving as a cinematic backdrop to both performances. Check for times. Tickets £10-£15. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Royal Festival Hall 8-11 Nov: Fat Blokes by Scottee. Performance

artist Scottee introduces a dance show about flab, double chins and getting your kit off in public, and questions why fat men are never sexy but always funny. Please check for times. Tickets £18. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555.

E8. Station: Waterloo.

Royal Opera House 1-17 Nov: La Bayadere. Natalia Makarova’s production of this 19th-century classic ballet brings an exotic world of temple dancers and noble warriors to life. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Enjoy ABBA’s hits in Mamma Mia! (p. 46)

MAMMA MIA! © BRINKHOFF & MÎGENBURG

Stories

Royal Albert Hall

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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

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ENTERTAINMENT

OPERA

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

London Coliseum

Christmas in Leicester Square

Home to the English National Opera.

Productions are sung in English. To 5 Dec: Lucia di Lammermoor. With themes of rival families, thwarted love, unhealthy obsessions, and a doomed political marriage, Lucia di Lammermoor is Donizetti‘s most compelling romantic drama.

Based on Walter Scott’s novel The Bride of Lammermoor, the story traces how Lucia, an innocent woman, is manipulated by the men in her life until, no longer willing to submit to their control, she descends into insanity. An example of the bel canto school of 19th-century Italian opera, Donizetti’s score is full of beautiful melodies as well as psychological insights.

Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org.

33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

From 9 Nov: Each year, this festival lights up a patch of London with a Christmas market and Santa’s grotto. Sip mulled wine, buy gifts and don’t miss Brief Encounters, a cheeky ‘boylesque’ performance featuring male burlesque, circus, comedy and aerial acts. Free admission. www.christmasinleicestersquare.com. Leicester Square, WC2H 7JY. T: 020-7492 9942. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Royal Opera House Iconic music venue, which has recently undergone a three-year refurbishment.

From 15 Nov: Simon Boccanegra. Verdi’s tragedy about the ill-fated Doge of Genoa Simon Boccanegra returns in Elijah Moshinsky’s Renaissance production. 20-29 Nov: The Unknown Soldier / Infra / Symphony in C. Two contrasting ballets from Wayne McGregor and George Balanchine return with a world premiere by Alastair Marriott. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

London like

Or Concierges

Winterville on Clapham Common From 15 Nov: This annual festival has an open-air ice rink.

You can also enjoy comedy, cabaret, family shows and club nights and shop at a Christmas market. www.winterville.co.uk.

Clapham Common, SW4.

Off map. Station: Clapham Common/ Clapham South.

Huddle From 13 Nov: During the long, cold winter, Mr Penguin carefully guards his egg. Now this new father needs to look after his newborn chick on his own and he’s not feeling confident. Check for times and prices. www.unicorntheatre.com.

Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 0207645 0560. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

Seussical

From 22 Nov: Enter the fantastical world of Dr Seuss in this musical extravaganza. Join the mischievous Cat in the Hat, Horton the Elephant and Gertrude McFuzz on a magical adventure from the Jungle of Nool, The first public to the Circus McGurkus, to the performance on a piano tiniest planet in the sky, Whoville. in England was in 1767 Set to an electric score and at the Royal Opera co-conceived by Monty Python’s Eric House Idle, this story by Tony Award winners Lynn Ahrens and Stephen Flaherty is a feel-good musical. 7.30pm. Tickets £14-£25. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. F10. Station: Elephant and Castle.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Christmas Carol From 27 Nov: Matthew Warchus’ big-

hearted, hit production brings to life Charles Dickens’ immortal classic. Suitable for over-eights.

Please check for times and prices. www.oldvic theatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The Snowman From 22 Nov: Little ones will love this classic tale about a boy becoming friends with a snowman. Check for times. Tickets from £15. www.sadlerswells.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222.

D8. Station: Holborn.

...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Razzle dazzle The Tower of London may be home to the Crown Jewels, but the OXO Tower is home to Dazzle London (from 11 Nov), a pop-up exhibition that brings together a wonderful selection of contemporary jewellery.

The building on the South Bank is one of London’s greatest landmarks. Its bar and brasserie boasts amazing views over the city.

The ground floor, meanwhile, is home to gallery@oxo, an exhibition-meets-shopping experience that is now in its 37th year.

On display are 4,000 handmade pieces for men and women in a range of materials, from pearls to plastic. Co-founder Tony Gordon says: ‘From inception, Dazzle has been about showcasing the new, the exciting and the trailblazing. This year offers particularly rich pickings.’

Recent graduates such as Allie Anderson and Abbie Gaiger display their work alongside established designers. Anderson’s collection is inspired by and created in Glasgow, and the city’s architecture is reflected in her pieces. Gaiger, meanwhile, has a more unusual muse: mathematics. The patterns found in maths, from geometry to symmetry, inspire her bold lines and laser-cut pieces.

The event started in 1981 in Manchester.

The creators Tony Gordon and Christine Bola were selling jewellery in the foyer of the Royal Exchange Theatre, and expected to make £1,000 on the opening night – yet by the end they had made £10,000. Since then, Dazzle has been an annual event, and it has also taken place at the National Theatre.

Gordon reflects on the journey: ‘We have helped launch the careers of many enormously talented designers, and have encouraged some wild experimentation over the years that has contributed to exciting developments in jewellery design’.

Popular designers returning to the Dazzle include Sue Gregor, who uses recycled plastics, and Tania Clarke Hall, who works with leather.

It’s not all about jewellery, though – the Dazzle Extra section includes accessories such as Green Thomas’ lambswool scarves, handbags

by Steven Harkin and ceramics by Susan O’Byrne. Go on, add some sparkle to your trip.

OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7021 1600. www.dazzle-exhibitions.co.uk

DAZZLE LONDON IMAGES COURTESY OF DAZZLE LONDON

Stuck for souvenir or Christmas gift ideas? Then pick up contemporary jewellery at Dazzle design fair, says Kohinoor Sahota

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf This is a first-class shopping destination in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands.

Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s

John Lewis At this famous British institution, find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.john lewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches).

T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty Visit this mock-Tudor building, which is famous for its prints on items from scarves to notebooks.

Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as great women’s fashion. Open Mon-Sat 9am9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com.

458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP (and branches).

T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion.

Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FASHION

King’s Road

An absolute must for fashion followers, this flagship boutique has a collection of ready-to-wear items, bags and shoes. The label created

The iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with a deli, clothes shop and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Alexander McQueen

the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Banana Republic The flagship store for this American company has men’s and women’s clothes. www.bananarepublic.eu.

224 Regent St, W1B 3BR (and branches). T: 0207758 3550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Browns Formerly a boutique housed on the ground floor of No. 27 since 1970, Browns has expanded through five interconnecting townhouses, and is now the place for top designer labels. www.browns fashion.com. 24-27 South Molton St, W1K 5RD. T: 020-7514 0016. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Burberry Browse the full collections. www.burberry.com.

121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches).

T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products (multiple locations). www.chanel.com.

158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040.

E6. Station: Green Park.

Christian Louboutin Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of chic red-soled shoes (multiple locations). www.christianlouboutin.com. 17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ. T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park

Seven Dials In the heart of Covent Garden are seven streets of boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys

SHOPPERS © ISTOCK

Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com.

188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Food and meat halls, fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ready, steady, shop If you haven’t thought about your Christmas shopping yet, Black Friday is an excellent time to start. This massive shopping event (23 Nov), which always takes place on the day after the American holiday Thanksgiving, marks the moment when retailers launch their pre-Christmas sales. Oxford Street is the place to experience the Black Friday madness at its most exciting as shops open earlier than usual on the day itself – some at 6am – to welcome thousands of customers hoping to bag a bargain on everything from clothing to electricals.

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Eccleston Yards, 21 Eccleston Place, SW1W 9NF. T: 020-3551 5602. www.ecclestonyards.com

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Starting out as a fledgling designer can’t be easy, which is why 50m has opened with the aim of supporting new talent. The name refers to the 50 metres of rail space each designer is given to showcase their creations.

Brands include fashion duo Kepler and jewellery studio Räthel & Wolf.

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This is so much more than just a shop, as it also has a restaurant and hosts exhibitions. A cross between D N S L G W E Lhas a gallery and a store, each item CROM been chosen for its monozukuri – which means craftsmanship – and is beautiful as well as functional.

Browse homeware to books. N 101-111 Kensington High St, W8 5SA. T: 020-3972 7100. www.japanhouselondon.co.uk

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SHOPPING Gucci One of the most desirable luxury brands in the world, Gucci brings its legendary Italian quality and innovative design to London (multiple locations). www.gucci.com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE. T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hackett For those who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, suiting and plenty of accessories. For those who want to cut an impressive figure around town, seek out their range of delightful classics with a quirky twist (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Icon Outlet New destination for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars. The experience includes personal shoppers, stylists and luggage drops.

Please check for opening times. www.iconattheo2. co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0208463 2000 . Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Westfield London This huge mall has more than 450 shops, from high-street names to luxury brands. It is also home to KidZania, where children can play while parents shop. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Huge mall with 270 shops, a cinema and casino and outdoor spaces including a playground. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset.

Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris Couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

COUNTRY LIVING FAIR IMAGE COURTESY OF COUNTRY LIVING FAIR

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from the bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Winter wonderland Is it too early to think about Christmas? Country Living Christmas Fair (11-17 Nov) certainly doesn’t think so. Taking place at the Business Design Centre near Angel Tube station, this exhibition includes decorations, food, drink and carol singers to get you in the Christmas spirit. As well as meeting small business owners and experiencing British talent, you can watch cooking demonstrations and take part in art and craft events. www.countrylivingfair.com

The East India Company

Twinings

Offering fine food and luxuries made mostly in Britain, this flagship store is the perfect place to pick up a special gift. Experience exquisite delicacies from gold-leaf marmalade to endless blends of tea. www.theeastindiacompanyfine food.com. 7-8 Conduit St, W1S 2XF. T: 020-3205 3385. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Items also include tea pots.

Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Japan Centre

We Built This City

Seek out this subterranean shop for matcha, fans, ceramics and food. www.japancentre.com. Please check for opening times. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

London Glassblowing

SPECIALIST STORES

Pick up a beautiful souvenir at Peter Layton’s studio and shop. Book a class to try glassblowing for yourself at the UK’s leading studio and gallery for glass art. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk.

62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800.

F11. Station: London Bridge.

Buckingham Palace Shop

Prestat

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created

by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

One of London’s oldest chocolate shops sells hot chocolate, truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a a twist. Look out for the stuffed pigeons and artworks, including illustrations of London icons and maps. There are also in-house events, such as personalisation services and workshops where you can make your own jewellery and T-shirts. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk.

56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange This specialist retailer stocks a large selection of fine whiskies, spirits and luxury Champagnes. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross. www.wheretraveler.com 57

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Omega Barbour Lotus WIGMORE STR ET The Highlands Colognes includeETudor Rose and Gucci Daks Kiehl’s La Perla Jimmy Pepe Amber, inspired by the rose, which Coccinelle Marina Rinaldi Fairly Jeans Dolce & Gabbana PICCADILLY Piquadro Whittard Alexander McQueen is a royal symbol of England. You can CIRCUS of Chelsea Cartier Tod’s also treat yourself to complimentary Dover St De Beers Mappin & Webb Market E N R I E Tgift Barbour T A Pbox. embossing onH your LACE Cath Kidston International GREEN TUMI Fortnum 101 Regent St, W1B 4EZ. T: 0808-281 PARK Prestat Ritz Fine & Mason Jewellery 0229. www.jomalone.co.uk Penhaligon’s B RLinks O of London

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Did you know that the first chocolate truffle was created by Prestat’s founder, Antoine Dufour, in 1895? The favourite chocolatier of Willy Wonka creator Roald Dahl has been refurbished with eccentric decor. Located in the Princes Arcade, it now includes a new café.

14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8691 8555. www.prestat.co.uk

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Paris shop.hysek.com

Geneva

Istanbul

Moscow

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We deliver your gifts, shopping and luggage, worldwide We collect from your hotel or residence, pack your items securely and offer a choice of carrier to safely deliver.

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post, parcel & print centre Mail Boxes Etc. Stores are owned and operated by licensed franchisees of Mail Boxes Etc. (UK) Limited in the UK and Ireland. Š 2018 Mail Boxes Etc.

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The variety is staggering, so much so that the floor-to-ceiling wall of tea is the world’s longest tea wall, with 1,000 teas from 36 countries.

38 King St, WC2E 8JS. www.mariagefreres.com

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If you’re after stylish and eccentric souvenirs which you know will be cherished, then look no further than We Built This City. Located in Carnaby Street, this shop is bursting with great gifts, from portraits of British icons to illustrated maps of the capital. Look out, too, for a host of special events, which include arts and crafts classes and talks by artists.

56 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. T: 0203642 9650. www.webuilt-thiscity.com

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Urban Outfitters Russell & Bromley H&M Mango Uniqlo M&S Sports Direct Zara OXF American Apparel STREE

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch.

Post Office: The Plaza, Oxford St, W1D 1LT. 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE. 111 Baker St, W1U 6SG. 32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA. 9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ. For all branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

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Mail Boxes ETC: 72 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7QW. T: 020-7580 9111.

28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825.

95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk Pack & Send: 1 Rockley Rd, W14 0DJ. T: 020-8749 8842.

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DHL: Ryman, 227 Kensington High St, W8 6SA. T: 020-7937 1107.

Ryman, 64 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3LQ. T: 020-7581 0858.

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OPENING TIMES Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item.

Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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DINING | THE GUIDE

East is east If you’re more used to seeing art on a canvas than on a plate, then a new Japanese restaurant might change the way you think, says Sarah Riches order will resemble a work of art, just like the artworks in the shop and gallery on the floors beneath you. Akira sourced all the tableware from artisans across Japan. Rare sake and cocktails featuring yuzu, shiso and edible petals are served in elegant glasses; sushi in lacquerware bento boxes; and rice, noodles and meat on ceramic dishes. Floral porcelain pots, filled with sashimi, resemble trinket boxes on a dressing table.

While there’s a focus on regional, seasonal plates, you’ll come across some fusion ones, too – such as fish and chips. The menu lends itself to ordering multiple dishes – some just a bite’s worth – so you can start with Wagyu beef with truffle and cheese sushi and a cucumber roll with lime, before sampling crab and cream croquettes, smoked eel tartar, and rice made in a donabe (clay pot). The restaurant has a robata (charcoal grill), so save space for chargrilled Wagyu beef, pork, chicken, seafood and vegetables, served on a hot stone. It’s all oishii, indeed.

Japan House, 101-110 Kensington High St, W8 5SA. T: 020-3971 4646. www. japanhouseakira.london

ZUAYA This South American restaurant (above) is led by head chef Francisco Lafee, who previously worked in El Celler de Can Roca – a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Girona – and Barrafina. Expect Mexican, Argentinian and Peruvian sharing dishes such as octopus grilled on a robata; wild turbot ceviche with raspberry, orange and leche de tigre; and quindim, a Brazilian egg-yolk flan with coconut ice cream.

35 Kensington High St, W8 5BA. T: 0207938 3533. www.zuaya.co.uk

JOE’S CAFÉ Although this chic café opened in 1984, it recently relaunched inside Joseph store in nearby Knightsbridge. Expect a global menu which includes chermoula-marinated prawns with couscous and baba ganoush, and the signature risotto with lobster.

16 Sloane St, SW1X 9NB. T: 020-7235 9869. www.joseph-fashion.com

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE AKIRA IMAGES COURTESY OF JAPAN HOUSE; ZUAYA © CHRIS ORANGE

Fans of art and design now have another good reason to visit Kensington, as a new Japanese restaurant close to The Design Museum puts as much emphasis on presentation as it does on taste.

Akira is on the top floor of Japan House London, the recently opened Japanese cultural centre in a 1920s Art Deco building on Kensington High Street.

The fine dining restaurant is named after Shimizu Akira (right), who has two restaurants in Tokyo and used to be the executive head chef of Engawa, the Kobe beef and bento specialist by Piccadilly.

Akira feels authentic as soon as you enter, as you’re met with surround-sound cries of ‘irrashaimase!’ (welcome).

The decor is minimal; just a few black metal lattice screens and handmade wooden furniture, with a tatami room for private dining.

This means your attention is drawn to the restaurant’s bar, which weaves around the open kitchen and overlooks the high street.

Akira’s three key principles – food, tableware and presentation – ensure that whatever you

Kensington kings

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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 80-81

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Try Argentine steaks in this wine bar, terrace and lounge. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants. co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches).

T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodman restaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe This legendary burger joint has rock memorabilia, a fun vibe, jumbo wings and nachos. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com.

150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700.

E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Sophisticated rotisserie with a grill and wood-fired oven, serving dishes such as suckling pig for two.

The views from midway up The Shard are stunning. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com.

Level 32, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia, and an international menu featuring Asian stir-fries, steaks and sliders. ££.

Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

JW Steakhouse This top-quality steakhouse offers dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sides, sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460.

E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine and fantastic views at this restaurant on The Shard’s 31st floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

GAZELLE COURTESY OF GAZELLE

Caxton Grill Superb selection of steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes. There’s also a bar and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk.

2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7.

Station: St James’s Park.

Darwin Brasserie Dine on level 36 of the ‘Walkie-Talkie’ as you try burrata, imam bayildi (aubergine) with yoghurt or roasted sea trout. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Jewel in the crown Chef Rob Roy Cameron – who worked at elBulli, dubbed the world’s best restaurant – has teamed up with acclaimed mixologist Tony Conigliaro to open Gazelle in Mayfair.

Accessed by a private lift or spiral staircase, the restaurant has exposed brick walls set against jewel tones, while close-up portraits by photographer Zackery Michael adorn the walls. The menu is made up of small sharing plates featuring unexpected combinations.

Dishes might include frozen yeast; strawberry oyster; pig’s tails; squid with jowl and girolles, and monkfish and burnt seeds. End with grape, yoghurt and bee pollen.

48 Albemarle St, W1S 4DH. T: 020-7629 0236. www.gazelle-mayfair.com. E7.

Station: Green Park/Piccadilly Circus

Fenchurch Restaurant

The Montague

This smart brasserie on the roof of the ‘Walkie-Talkie’ has spectacular views. Try Cornish mackerel, Isle of Mull scallops or Devonshire lamb. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

This brasserie offers seasonal dishes and weekend brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.londonchurchill. regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 0207299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Fera at Claridge’s

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Art Deco restaurant serving local, organic and British dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££.

Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. The British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room

Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque and try a glass from the excellent wine list in a dining room with a whimsical, century-old mural. ££.

Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Sophie’s Steakhouse This Soho branch of the popular steakhouse has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace at the front. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.com.

42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch).

T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Pancras Brasserie

Smart brasserie next to the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist, plus a seafood counter. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

All-day British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys stpancras.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900.

C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Magpie

Ting

Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes arriving at the tables on trolleys, dim-sum style.

Try the squid with spicy Calabrian sausage, grilled turnip and mussel sauce. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Located on level 35 of The Shard, this superb restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence, plus panoramic views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge. www.wheretraveler.com 63

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DINING VIVI

Hakkasan

Try seasonal dishes, afternoon tea or a pre-theatre menu. Glass walls make it great for people-watching. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant.co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

This fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. You’ll find it hidden in an alley; once inside you’re transported to contemporary Shanghai – it’s a warren of dark rooms separated by wooden screens. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant This elegant Mayfair restaurant is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Café in the Crypt Underneath the church, or outside in the courtyard, you can dine on homely, good-value dishes. £.

Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Cheneston’s Try pan-seared venison or Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The English Grill Hotel restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com.

The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Palm Court This grand hotel lounge, which has a colonial conservatory vibe, is ideal for afternoon tea. Please check for opening times. ££. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb cuisine in this dining room, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate, with hearty, meaty dishes including rump steak and rib of beef. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast, plus a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Choose from Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including lobster with noodles and Peking duck, in a sleek setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 0203819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Angler Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal produce. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com.

South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.

Fancy Crab Sample dishes including crab bisque. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.

J Sheekey Seafood and oyster restaurant with a Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk.

28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mei Ume

Neptune

This plush new restaurant serves Opt for the seafood platter and Chinese and Japanese cuisine, oysters in this Grade II-listed dining London has 10 bars, with menus comprising sushi and including Dandelyan room. Dress up, as it’s glamorous: dim sum, Peking duck and Sichuan and Swift, in this year’s think pink velvet armchairs, gold chicken with cashews. Tall ceilings, The World’s 50 Best lamps and high, ornate ceilings. £££. big windows and a huge cherry Bars list Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. blossom painting make it feel grand.

Kimpton Fitzroy London hotel, 1-8 Russell ££££. Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com.

Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8.

Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, Station: Russell Square.

EC3N 4AJ. T: 020-3297 3799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Min Jiang Enjoy park views over Sichuan dishes, dim sum and spicy seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988.

F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street This former bank features a glass dome. £££. MonFri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay In Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred haute cuisine. Book and dress up. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www. galvinatwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy This firm favourite on London’s dining scene is loved by celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

OXO Tower This smart restaurant is right on the River Thames so you can watch boats pass as you dine. It’s perfect for special occasions, and has a wine list of more than 800 bottles. ££££. Daily L & D. www.harvey nichols.com. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Ting In The Shard, dine on European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/ london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Poppie’s

Traditional fish and chip shop decked out with 1950s memorabilia. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies fishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com.

The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This excellent French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££.

Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel This bustling French brasserie and bar is set in a grand dining room with a high ceiling. Its set menu is excellent value for money. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine in a smart dining room.

Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room shrouded in flowers, with an excellent wine list. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sketch Five restaurants and bars, including the Gallery, a stylish brasserie adorned with art by David Shrigley. It also serves a quirky afternoon tea. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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DINING

GASTROPUBS The Wigmore Enjoy dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by the legendary Michel Roux Jr. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore.co.uk. 15 Langham Place, Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6.

Station: Oxford Circus.

INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists. Sample dishes might include chargrilled aubergine, wild venison or smoked chilli lamb chops. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya. biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares The Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates sophisticated modern Indian cuisine. As well as street food dishes, you can sample soft-shell crab and the unusual dish of New Forest venison, girolles and padron pepper biryani, with garam masala jus. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka bar. The seasonal menu may feature Hyderabadi lamb shank or Goan chicken curry. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant serves North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gymkhana Inspired by colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves sophisticated dishes such as guinea fowl pepper fry. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Masala Zone Enjoy street food, thalis and regional curries in vibrant surroundings. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are served in this stylish restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; daily D. www.mint leaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy 28-day-aged beef and hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

The Terrace Enjoy the opulent decor in this 150-year-old hotel restaurant and bar, which serves burgers and Italian dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com.

Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

ITALIAN Ask Italian

Try authentic, Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com.

20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6.

Station: Green Park.

This pizza and pasta joint is conveniently located opposite Paddington Station. It’s a friendly spot, great for kids. Eat outside or in its conservatory.

Save space for the Chocolate Etna, a chocolate fondant with hot toffee sauce poured over it at your table. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian.co.uk.

41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.

Veeraswamy

Cicchetti

The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelin-starred, has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six-hour cooked lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veera swamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

All-day dining venue with Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk.

30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch).

T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Tamarind

Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the iconic music venue. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table in a theatrical experience – they flip ingredients, catch some in their hats, shout and tap their utensils to a beat. Try the wagyu beef and hibachi prawns. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk.

37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant, which is set in a quiet courtyard, has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

A grill restaurant visited by Winston Churchill and Princess Diana has had a new lease of life thanks to French chef Laurent Tourondel, who has restaurants in New York, Miami and Hong Kong, and is the new permanent chef at Laurent at Hotel Café Royal.

The Grade II-listed hotel, which opened in 1865, has refurbished its restaurant. The open kitchen serves grilled Aberdeen Angus rib-eye, Kagoshima wagyu, Dover sole and swordfish. There’s also a new sushi bar serving dishes from Cornish crab to teriyaki eel. Try a popover – a Yorkshire pudding and cheese muffin hybrid – on the side.

68 Regent St, W1B 4DY. T: 020-7406 3310. www.laurentatcaferoyal.com.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus

This is the first European restaurant from the renowned chef Nobu Matsuhisa, serving excellent sashimi and sushi, plus lobster wasabi pepper.

Booking essential. ££££. Daily L & D. www.nobu restaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB (and branches). T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Ginza Onodera Hidden in a sleek, subterranean space in Mayfair, this restaurant has mostly Japanese staff serving top-notch sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

IMAGE COURTESY OF HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL

Holy smoke!

Nobu London

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK

Time for tea

KIMPTON FITZROY LONDON

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

RADIO ROOFTOP

This hotel, which opened in 1898, has recently been refurbished. The Palm Court is made for afternoon tea, and its glass ceiling lets in light even on gloomy days. Swap egg mayo for quail egg, potato and truffle on toast, and tandoori chicken with raita on caraway bread. Its scones are unusual, too: think raisin and lemon, matcha and sesame or Earl Grey with Cornish clotted cream and curd. Sweets include passion fruit, coconut and guava, which goes well with Sri Lankan hand-rolled tea.

1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-7123 5000. www.gofortea.com/kimpton

Commended in the 2018 Afternoon Tea Awards, this afternoon tea is served in Verdi on the first floor, which overlooks the Royal College of Music. The menu is as classic as the Grade I-listed surroundings: think cucumber, cream cheese and mint sandwiches; scones topped with with clotted cream and strawberry jam and music-inspired sweet treats. Teas come from the East India Company – try the 1871 Blend, which was created just for the Royal Albert Hall.

Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. www.gofortea.com/royalalberthall

At ME London, you can sit by Radio Rooftop’s window indoors or outside, both of which overlook The Shard, Coca-Cola London Eye, Big Ben and St Paul’s Cathedral. The tea comes with a Mediterranean twist, so you can nibble a Manchego cheese, quince jam and bacon sandwich; a chorizo and egg wrap; a rosemary and manzanilla olive muffin and Ibérico ham on tomato bread. Follow this with orange and cranberry buttermilk scones and sweets such as crème brûlée, Catalan-style.

ME London, 336-337 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 0808234 1953. www.gofortea.com/radiorooftop

LA SUITE WEST

TAJ 51 BUCKINGHAM GATE

Just in time for World Vegan Month, this hotel near Hyde Park has a new patisserie, Café Forty One, which is London’s only vegan French pâtisserie. Head chef Clarisse Flon has created a new vegan afternoon tea menu with rye bread and sourdough filled with aubergine ‘bacon’, sweets and scones with vegan honey and weekly sweets. Opt for loose-leaf tea or coffee and a non-alcoholic bubbly – or pay extra for a fruit cocktail. The café also serves vegan breakfasts, lunches and desserts.

41-51 Inverness Terrace, W2 3JN. T: 0207313 8484. www.gofortea.com/cafefortyone

For a new take on an old tradition, try this hotel’s new Jasmine Indian Afternoon Tea. The menu is inspired by India’s roadside chai stalls and Maharaja dining rooms. Wraps with spicy fillings, tikka spring rolls and scones are served on gold trays and plates decorated with flowers and elephants. Traditional sweets include rose cookies and gulab jamun, a milk dumpling that is deep-fried then poached.

Eastern and western teas, and salty caramel lassi with a chikki toffee crunch, are served, too.

51 Buckingham Gate, SW1E 6AF. T: 0207769 7766. www.gofortea.com/kona

LONDON MARRIOTT HOTEL PARK LANE This five-star hotel, once a grand Edwardian mansion, has a new botanical tea in its Lanes of London restaurant. Start with chicken, smoked tomato, red-leaf basil and rocket pesto sandwiches, then try Earl Grey and raisin scones with orange and kaffir lime jam.

End with sweets decorated with petals and chocolate butterflies – the rose and chocolate soil in a plant pot with ‘carrots’, and lavender and bee-balm macarons, make for fun photos.

140 Park Lane, W1K 7AA. T: 020-7493 7000. www.gofortea.com/lanesoflondon

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES

London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk

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DINING Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece grill serves contemporary Japanese ’robatayaki’ cuisine (cooked over fire). Try the tasting menu. £££-££££.

Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com. 30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF (and branches). T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakagura london.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tokimeite Enjoy superior cuisine with dishes such as fried lotus root stuffed with prawns, plus an extensive saké, shochu and whisky menu. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.tokimeite.com. 23 Conduit St, W1S 2XS. T: 020-3826 4411. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysee This family-run restaurant, which opened in 1936, serves traditional Greek dishes including keftedes and dolmades. It has a roof garden, shisha lounge and late licence. £££. Daily D; Mon-Fri & Sun L. www.elyseerestaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with authentic Moroccan decor, serving mezze mains such as duck couscous and lamb tagine. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with an informal communal area as well as a dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com.

21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Yasmeen Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat, wraps and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com.

1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921.

Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

Yosma Turkish cuisine in the heart of London at this bright, informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish and meat dishes from the Josper grill. £££.

Daily L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street.

THE ENGLISH GRILL English Tradition, Dining and Design at its Finest

The English Gri

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s iconic sights as you embark on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com.

Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800.

E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Dining cruises including a two-course lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££££££. Booking needed. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400.

F8. Station: Westminster.

The Rubens at The Palace

39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS Telephone: +44 (0)20 7834 6600 | rubenshotel.com

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DINING RS Hispaniola

Thai Pot

Delightful moored restaurant boat serving British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk.

Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

This much-loved restaurant has been open for 20 years. Try the stir-fried beef and Massaman curry, or a set meal from £13.50. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in this Debenhams store, and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen.

There’s also a Champagne bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional Vietnamese cuisine. Try the spiced lamb chops or seafood pho. ££. Daily L & D. www.houseof ho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130.

D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Mango Tree Fine dining restaurant offering authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Rosa’s Thai Café At this venue you can enjoy dishes from papaya salad to drunken noodles. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches). T: 020-7287 9617. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

SPANISH El Pirata This lively Mayfair restaurant has been serving hot and cold tapas for nearly 25 years. Try the prawns in olive oil, pimentos and wild mushrooms, or the deep-fried medallions of monkfish. ££-£££.

Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk.

5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810.

E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Traditional dishes and tapas are given a modern twist, plus there are classics including jamón Ibérico, artisan cheeses and bocadillos. ££-£££.

Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant, serving seasonal dishes such wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh, and pork belly with caramelised quince and apple. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk.

34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 0207833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

W H E R E

L O N D O N

VEGETARIAN The Gate Latest branch of the well-known veggie restaurant, with Indian and Middle Eastern influences, and dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds This informal Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie and Vietnamese mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India, from authentic street food to dosas and thalis. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant. co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea is in partnership with Whittard of Chelsea. Go on a journey through the history of afternoon tea, from its advent in 1840 by the Duchess of Bedford through to the present day. The tea comes with sandwiches and desserts from throughout history. The menu includes finger sandwiches filled with classic and contemporary delights such as coronation chicken, a sandwich created in 1953 specifically for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. The luxurious five-star hotel boasts panoramic views over Chelsea Harbour Marina and the River Thames. The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea costs £28 per person, or £38 with a glass of Champagne.

El Pirata For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans such as Brian May and Johnny Depp, as well as food critics, are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000. www.millenniumhotels.com

EL PIRATA COURTESY OF EL PIRATA; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF THE CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL

The Chelsea Harbour Hotel

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An exquisite bar and restaurant in the heart of Soho serving a delicious and varied menu showcasing locally sourced vegetables and fish – along with Sophie’s famous British beef.

42-44 Great Windmill Street, W1B 7NB sophiessteakhouse.com/soho soho@sophiessteakhouse.com 020 7836 8836

BOOK NOW THROUGH YOUR CONCIERGE

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Adventure time!

Mr Fogg’s House of Botanicals

Scent of the Gods cocktail

Mr Fogg’s House of Botanicals

Mr Fogg’s Society of Exploration

The fictional character Phileas Fogg from Jules Verne’s novel Around the World in 80 Days has inspired a handful of bars across London, two of which are new.

Set over two floors, Mr Fogg’s House of Botanicals in Fitzrovia has tall ceilings, large sash windows and an interior decorated like a Victorian parlour – think vintage suitcases, taxidermy butterflies and souvenirs that Fogg would have brought back from his travels.

Downstairs, antique horticultural prints, palms and birdcages filled with hanging ivy bring the outdoors in. Sit on a wooden stool at the oak bar, which resembles a chemist’s counter, while staff make drinks with exotic plants, herbs and spices.

A spiral staircase leads you upstairs to a lounge with floral armchairs and paintings in gold frames hanging from walls decorated with botanical wallpaper. The Secret Language of Flowers menu is inspired by the Victorian tradition of expressing hidden emotions by giving certain flowers associated with them, so each drink represents a flower and a feeling, from love to forgiveness. The drinks arrive with recipe cards, which you can keep.

Peckish? Nibble on floral-themed food such as sweet potato fries loaded with crispy lamb, orange mayonnaise, feta, onion and spiced sesame seeds, or smoked trout with cucumber, juniper berry sour cream and soda bread. Sweets include crumpets topped with whipped honey butter and rosemary honeycomb (48 Newman St, W1T 1QQ).

In keeping with the explorer theme, Mr Fogg’s Society of Exploration is the fifth bar in the group – it is located off the north side of the Strand, close to Charing Cross train station, where Fogg and his servant Passepartout set off on their voyage.

It features a Victorian Orient-Express train carriage and a cocktail-making machine.

When you press the button, you trigger a chain reaction that creates a cocktail.

The food is as exotic as the decor, as it’s inspired by Fogg’s travels – so prepare to be adventurous. Crickets, mealworms or grasshoppers, anyone?

The map room, meanwhile, is decorated with maps and hosts regular events, from talks with explorers and storytelling inspired

by Fogg’s travels to cocktail classes and spirit safaris (1A Bedford St, WC2E 9HH).

IMAGES © JOHNNY STEPHEN’S PHOTOGRAPHY

A chain of cocktail bars inspired by a fictional Victorian character is expanding with two new branches.

Sarah Riches checks them out

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number.

Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)

TRADITIONAL PUBS

BARS & CLUBS

The Blackfriar

The Back Room

This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, The Back Room bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Booking Office Bar

The Dog and Duck

Cocktail destination majoring in timeless luxury, known for its Bellinis. www.cartizzebar.com.

4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub, which is allegedly haunted, boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music. www.french housesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 0207437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar. www.bookingoffice bar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566.

C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Cartizze Bar

Camino At this dedicated Cava venue, enjoy tapas sharing platters. www.cava.co.uk. The Regent Quarter, 3 Varnishers Yard, N1 9FD (and branches). T: 0207125 0930. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

City Garden Bar This impressive bar, on the open-air roof terrace of the ‘Walkie-Talkie’ building, takes some beating.

It has amazing city views, an impressive garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020.

E11. Station: Monument.

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery. It’s tucked away down an alleyway. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Dukes Bar Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same name, renowned for its superior Martinis.

Oozing olde-world charm. www.dukeshotel.com.

Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gong Located on level 52 of Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and is ideal for sunset cocktails. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit stone-arched basement. Try to go early to grab a table as it can get very busy. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

Jack Solomons Club This beautiful basement speakeasy bar in Soho is accessed by a hidden entrance and boasts oldeschool glamour. Look out for live bands, DJs and one-off events. www.jacksolomons.com. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.

CHEESE PLATTER COURTESY OF LADY OF THE GRAPES

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.

Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing Irish bar, with four bars over six levels. It has regular live music, and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Waxy’s Little Sister A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to the huge Waxy O’Connor’s, which has traditional Irish beers and whiskies, and also great bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Lady in red and white A new wine bar championing female winemakers has opened in Covent Garden. As the name suggests, Lady of the Grapes is owned by a woman – Carole Bryon from Paris – and 60 per cent of its wine is made by women. Most are organic or biodynamic, so they’re made with minimal intervention, with no additives, very few sulphites and yeasts that are found naturally on the vine, rather than cultivated. The intimate space is where the restaurateur Victor Garvey’s Spanish restaurant Encant used to be. Garvey – the talent behind Rambla in Soho and Sibarita in Covent Garden – creates organic, seasonal and locally sourced dishes with French influences, including cheese and charcuterie platters.

16 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7NJ. T: 020-7836 4152. www.ladyofthegrapes.com.

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NIGHTLIFE L’escale Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the River Thames.

Try a sharing board of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796.

Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Looking Glass Cocktail Club Enter a giant glass into a dimly-lit room decorated with Louis XVI-inspired furniture. This speakeasy has DJs, live music and performances. 49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 020-7613 3936. www.lookingglass london.co.uk. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this place, which is home to exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Nightjar

A subterranean speakeasy in the heart of Soho with live music and world renowned DJs

JACKSOLOMONS.COM INFO@JACKSOLOMONS.COM 41 GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W1D 7NB

BOOK NOW THROUGH YOUR CONCIERGE

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a Grade II-listed warehouse, with original brick walls and leather sofas. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, you will find a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar. www.opium chinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 0207734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole You will find this impressive and spacious cocktail bar below Smithfield Market. Jazz and blues shows are staged regularly. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. www.primobar.co.uk.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 0207620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after the satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who drew the caricatures of iconic British figures that are displayed on the walls. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the train station where the Eurostar arrives. There is a button on your table which you can press for refills. www.searcyschampagne bars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900.

C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Six Storeys As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is decorated in a bohemian style, including The Loft, The Decantery and The Parlour. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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The Vault The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made from barrels, while The Vault, hidden behind a bookcase, is a speakeasy with cosy arches. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this lounge, with eccentric decor incorporating leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezettertownhouse.com.

49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545.

C9. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino Massive West End venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live music. www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends.

There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye.

It also serves American-style food such as Buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblues kitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map.

Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out.

Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch).

T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue is world renowned and has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years, including Sarah Vaughan, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy music together, and makes jazz music more accessible for new audiences. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club has a reputation for being one of the most famous gentleman’s clubs in the world. Up to 70 international Angels dance nightly on four stages. You can also dine in the five-star steak restaurant. The club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow. While you are there, make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.string fellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 75

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE Banya No 1

Truefitt & Hill Four Seasons

Man in the mirror William Shakespeare may have said that the clothes maketh the man, but these days it’s fair to say that the grooming does too.

Over the past decade, more and more spas have opened which are aimed specifically at men. In honour of ‘Movember’ (the month when moustaches are grown to raise money for men’s health charities), we’re here to prove that salons aren’t just for women.

‘At Truefitt’s, the excellent hairdressers, they are learning French to beguile their time,’ wrote Charles Dickens in The Uncommercial Traveller. When you step through the doors at Truefitt & Hill, it certainly feels as though you have stepped back in time. Established in 1805, it’s the world’s oldest barbershop according to Guinness World Records, as well as being a Royal Warrant Holder, which means it serves the British royal family. Previously responsible for making King George II’s wigs, these days it takes care of wet shaves for the Duke of Edinburgh.

Located in London’s genteel St James’s area, Truefitt & Hill has welcomed politicians, actors and writers. When you’re in your leather seat, it is hard not to think about the legendary

people who have sat here before you, including Lord Byron, Sir Winston Churchill and Sir Laurence Olivier. If you want to master the art of shaving, try the Traditional Cut Throat Shaving Class, which includes a shave and a lesson on how to use the cut-throat razor (71 St James’s St, SW1A 1PH).

Meanwhile, Bamford Hayburn Spa in The Berkeley hotel brings a little piece of the countryside to the capital. The flagship branch is located in the Cotswolds but, while that spa may be loved by Kate Moss, it doesn’t boast London’s rooftop pool – or spectacular Hyde Park views. Packages for men include the Signature Treatment, which is aimed at the modern, active man. It combines Japanese and Swedish massages, hot stone therapy and an acupressure facial (Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL).

The Four Seasons Hotel on Park Lane also has an extensive list for men, including manicures, pedicures and massages. The Fitness Massage is ideal for people who enjoy deep pressure and want to improve their muscle health and flexibility. While most spas have rooms that are underground, what

Bamford Hayburn Spa

makes the Four Seasons spa special is its treatment rooms: they offer elevated views of Hyde Park through floor-to-ceiling windows.

For extra privacy, the Sky Suite is for couples only and includes a steam shower (Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7DR).

If you want to be put through your paces, head to Banya No 1. This Russian spa club’s signature treatment is the venik massage, during which bundles of birch twigs are thrashed against your body. It might sound more like a punishment than a relaxing experience, but it’s designed to improve blood circulation and ease tension. Feeling brave? Double the intensity and get thrashed by two members of staff at once. More than a spa, Banya No 1 also serves Russian food and drinks, including caviar and vodkas (17 Micawber St, N1 7TB).

TRUEFITT & HILL COURTESY OF TRUEFITT & HILL; BANYA NO 1 COURTESY OF BANYA NO 1; BAMFORD HAYBURN SPA COURTESY OF BAMFORD HAYBURN SPA; FOUR SEASONS COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS

If you usually find that a city’s spa scene is geared towards women, London has much to offer the modern man, says Kohinoor Sahota

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HAYBURN SPA COURTESY OF BAMFORD HAYBURN SPA; FOUR SEASONS COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours.

References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81

SPAS

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold Age Defying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, and there are also treatments for two.

Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa

The Spa at Dolphin Square

Aveda Institute

This members-only spa offers day passes for £25.

Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa. co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, the spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes.

The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest – upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension to your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Modrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens.

Signature treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com.

Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

One Aldwych

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for Brides and Hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.

Off map. Station: Pimlico.

by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven.

The menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Ushvani This plush venue was voted the Best Day Spa

by Tatler in 2012. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture, and has a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay and Balinese Massage, which incoroprate natural herbs, spices and flowers. www.ushvani.com.

1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Late appointments available

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

INDIAN MASSAGE SERVICE Body massage Indian head massage OUTCALLS TO HOTELS AND APARTMENTS

Call Yasmeena 0798 515 8877

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 mins. www.hersh esons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. indian massage ad.indd 1 T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Jo Hansford

The Refinery

Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com.

41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

AVENA MASSAGE

This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

01/08/2018 16:09

INSPIRING LONDON’S VISITORS

Windle & Moodie

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards

Concierges in the city use Where London for information.

Here they share their top tips for your travels

Jakub Stefanowicz Concierge at The Landmark London

Julie Wilkinson Concierge at Millennium Gloucester Hotel London Kensington

Paul Still Senior concierge at London Hilton on Park Lane

Tell us popular requests.

I’m often asked for restaurant recommendations and tickets to the hottest theatre shows.

Why is your hotel special?

Our stunning atrium and its palm trees makes our hotel stand out, along with our history – it was built in 1899.

Any family-friendly ideas?

On a sunny day, ZSL London Zoo is always popular, as well as the National History Museum. Otherwise, a day trip to Windsor Castle and Legoland is great fun.

Any strange requests?

A guest wanted to know where to get his hairline replaced as it was receding.

Why is your hotel special?

In 1973, a meeting in the Gloucester Hotel changed tennis forever: Billie Jean King formed the Women’s Tennis Association (WTA) here to fight for a better deal for female players.

Any romantic ideas?

It’s a cliché, but a dinner cruise aboard Bateaux London is very romantic.

Why is your hotel special?

Galvin at Windows, our Michelin-starred restaurant on the 28th floor, is amazing.

What can guests do in a day?

Cruise along the river from Westminster to Greenwich, where they can visit the Cutty Sark and the National Maritime Museum, then have lunch.

Any family-friendly ideas?

Visit the Warner Bros. Studio Tour, which has something for everyone.

Any romantic ideas?

Dine at Galvin at Windows!

Any hidden gems?

The Wallace Collection has a superb range of fine and decorative arts, as well as magnificent paintings by Rembrandt and Rubens.

Any hidden gems?

Iconic restaurant Bob Bob Ricard in Soho has glamorous booths in its Russian/English dining room.

What should visitors see outside central London?

Browse shops and cafés in Wimbledon Village, then visit Wimbledon Common and the Windmill Museum.

What should visitors see outside central London?

The Cotswolds is such an unspoilt region; you can’t help but fall in love with it.

Legoland Windsor Resort

Natural History Museum’s ice rink

Any hidden gems?

The pub, the Ye Olde Mitre in Hatton Garden, was built in 1546. Another gem is London Glassblowing in Bermondsey, with its glassblowing classes.

Tell us an experience visitors shouldn’t miss?

Watch a match at Lord’s Cricket Ground.

Cutty Sark

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England.

London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950.

St Pancras International.

Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

LEGOLAND WINDSOR RESORT © MIKAEL BUCK/LEGOLAND; ICE RINK © FELIPE GONCALVES; CUTTY SARK © VISIT GREENWICH; CONCIERGE IMAGES COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE HOTELS

AT YOUR SERVICE

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ESSENTIALS

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Brondesbury Park

Willesden Junction

Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park

Paddington

Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush

White City

Shepherd’s Bush Market

Stamford Brook

Ravenscourt Park

West Kensington

High Street Kensington

Green Park

Gloucester Road

Earl’s Court

Goodge Street

Victoria

Hoxton

Charing Cross

Liverpool Street

Bank

Aldgate East

Stepney Green

Whitechapel

Aldgate

Cannon Street Monument

Tower Gateway Rotherhithe

Bermondsey

Canada Water

West Brompton

Parsons Green

Surrey Quays

River Thames

Step-free access from street to platform

Bakerloo

Vauxhall

East Putney

Canning Town

District

Hammersmith & City

Custom House for ExCeL

Blackwall East India

Emirates Royal Docks

Heron Quays

North Greenwich

Elephant & Castle

Jubilee

Metropolitan

Prince Regent Royal Albert

West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

New Cross Gate

Northern

Victoria

Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V 17/E/3249/P

Greenwich New Cross

Brockley

Piccadilly

Beckton Park

London City Airport

Mudchute

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham

Circle

Royal Victoria

Island Gardens

Borough

Southfields

Central

Star Lane

Langdon Park

Canary Wharf

Lambeth North

Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train

East Ham Upton Park

Crossharbour

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Upney Barking

West Ham

Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road

South Quay Waterloo Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway

Stratford

West India Quay

Wapping

River Thames

London Bridge

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate Maryland

Abbey Road

Westferry Poplar

Limehouse

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Embankment

Pudding Mill Lane

All Saints Shadwell

Blackfriars Temple

Westminster

Bow Church

St. Paul’s

Hornchurch

Plaistow

Moorgate Chancery Lane

Ilford Manor Park

Becontree

Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Upminster Bridge

Seven Kings

Wanstead Park

Stratford High Street

Cambridge Heath

Old Street

Covent Garden

St. James’s Park

Homerton London Fields

Haggerston

Farringdon

Leicester Mansion Square House

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

South Kensington

Holborn

Tottenham Court Road

Knightsbridge

Barons Court

Hammersmith

Regent’s Park

Marble Arch

Dalston Junction

Angel Euston Square Russell Square

Queensway

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Bayswater Oxford Circus

Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation.

Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

River services

TUBE ROUNDEL © ISTOCK

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes.

Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am).

Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Correct at time of going to print

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours, and the first 30 min of travel are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl. gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands.

SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes is a trained certified packer.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines

The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines.

• Jubilee line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria line: Across the entire line.

• Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware.

• Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault.

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WHERE NOW | SUGGS

My Perfect Day Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club

Camden Town

The National Gallery

Regent’s Park

SUGGS MUSICIAN AND PRESENTER Graham McPherson – better known as Suggs – rose to fame as the lead singer of the legendary British band Madness.

He lives in Holloway, north London, and is a huge fan of Chelsea Football Club

How do you prefer to travel?

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club is one of my favourites – my mum used to sing there. We started off in Dublin Castle [a live music pub in Camden], which is where we got our first break. There used to be 20 music pubs in Camden, which is where I’m from. I like the Electric Ballroom in Camden Town and the Forum in Kentish Town.

I love black taxis, I love the bus. The Tube is remarkable for getting you from A to B.

Which buildings do you like?

I like The National Gallery and I love Brutalist architecture. I’m also a fan of the suburban architecture in north London, where I live: two-up, two-down houses with front and back gardens.

What place holds a special memory?

In Soho there was a place called The Colony Room Club. My mum worked there and a lot of great artists used to go, including Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon. I went in there when I was about six years old. In those days, Soho was a poor area with a lot of bohemians: poets, writers, artists, painters and musicians.

Do you go to museums and galleries?

I like the Sir John Soane’s Museum. He was a crazy collector and philanthropist who filled his house – it’s a marvellous, magical place.

Who is your favourite Londoner?

There are millions of them. The late singer Ian Dury has to be one of them – he had such an influence on Madness as artists. It’s the first time I heard someone sing in their own accent, rather than an American one. Ian had a real love affair with London and wrote a lot of great songs about this city.

Where do you like to drink?

There’s a pub called the Prince Edward in Holloway. I like old Victorian pubs, but they’re disappearing. I was brought up in pubs and it’s where I had a lot of gigs as a youngster. It’s sad that they are closing.

Where is your favourite place to eat?

Fish Central – a fish restaurant in Islington.

It’s half-chip shop and half-really nice fish place.

I’ve had birthdays there with my family.

Where is your favourite entertainment?

Which are your favourite green spaces?

The Inner Circle in Regent’s Park and the roses in the Rose Garden. It’s somewhere I took my kids when they were little.

Theatre is a very black-and-white thing – it’s either hateful or thrilling, and it doesn’t seem to be anything in between. I like live music and going to the cinema.

Why should people watch the TV series WWII Treasure Hunters?

I’ve always been interested in history. A lot of World War II wasn’t recorded because people wanted to forget. It’s a fascinating programme.

What story moved you?

I met this guy whose four sisters moved out, then four GIs turned up at his house.

He recalls being a kid, and said it was amazing having cool Americans turn up. Then, the black GIs were segregated from the white GIs. A pub owner said he didn’t care if they came in, explaining: ‘You’re all fighting that man in Germany with the funny moustache.’

What makes London stand out?

I’m not saying London is the best place in the world – but it is! It’s an enormous place, it’s got cultural diversity and amazing history.

It’s a fascinating place. If you get into a black cab, the driver will tell you something you didn’t know about London.

WW2 Treasure Hunters premieres on 12 Nov on HISTORY®. The series begins with a WWI special marking the 100th anniversary of the Armistice.

The Sound of Madness is touring 31 Nov-2 Dec, including The O2 on 14 Nov. Suggs One Man Tour – King Cnut is touring until 8 Nov

RONNIE SCOTT’S JAZZ CLUB COURTESY OF RONNIE SCOTT’S JAZZ CLUB; SUGGS © A + E NETWORKS UK; CAMDEN, REGENT’S PARK, THE NATIONAL GALLERY © ISTOCK; SUGGS’ CAMDEN TOWN RECORD SLEEVE © EMI

Which are your favourite music venues?

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Outlet shopping comes to The O2 Doors open 10am on 20 October

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DESTINATION WESTFIELD A WORL D OF SHOPPING, DINING A ND EN T ER TA INMEN T

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