Where Magazine London Sep 2018 by Morris Media Network

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

City of Style

SEPTEMBER 2018

PLUS

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

It’s London Fashion Week! Discover great British designs, from trench coats to top hats

SIDE TS N RIVER AUR A T S E UR T R N CO O T P HAM PAL ACE G WNIN 10 DO ET S TRE

SHARDS OF GLASS

STARRY NIGHT

The story behind the capital’s tallest building

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Ralph Fiennes takes on Antony & Cleopatra

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

September

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

ON THE COVER

Zandra Rhodes at London Fashion Week Festival © Shaun James Cox/British Fashion Council

The Guide 28 SIGHTSEEING Peek inside some usually off-limits residences, from 10 Downing Street to the BT Tower, at Open House London. 42 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Get a fresh look at design at two major festivals based at the Victoria and Albert Museum and Somerset House. 48 ENTERTAINMENT Ralph Fiennes and Sophie Okonedo take the lead roles in Shakespeare’s tragedy Antony & Cleopatra.

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM © CASSON MANN; THE BINGHAM © BARNEY JAMES/TIMELESS PICTURES; AMERICAN BAR COURTESY OF THE SAVOY; ANTONY & CLEOPATRA COURTESY OF NATIONAL THEATRE; 10 DOWNING STREET © ISTOCK

58 SHOPPING Shop for souvenirs at special events in grand locations, including Eltham Palace and Hampton Court Palace.

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

16 EXPERIENCE BRIXTON

This month’s exciting events, including Last Night of the Proms, the Darbar Festival and Dance Umbrella.

A guide to one of London’s most exciting areas, from POP Brixton to The Chocolate Museum.

8 FASHIONING LONDON

22 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

Discover the history behind iconic British fashion designs, from the timeless top hat to the trench coat, as we mark London Fashion Week.

12 SHARDS OF GLASS We take a look at Renzo Piano, the architect behind The Shard and other cutting-edge landmarks.

Gifts to celebrate the British tradition of taking tea.

82 MY PERFECT DAY The Singh Twins, Amrit and Rabindra Singh, are artists behind work that fuses Western and Asian themes. Here they share their London hotspots.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

62 DINING Enjoy the beauty of the River Thames in a relaxing setting at these pretty waterfront restaurants. Plus, take your pick of the latest afternoon teas. 72 NIGHTLIFE Raise your glasses to the US of A in these glamorous American bars which boast noble histories. 76 WELLBEING Whether you’re after a luxury treatment or a quick fix, get a new look in these leading hair salons. 78 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced concierges share their tips on how to make the most of your trip. 80 MAP A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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TOT_WhereLondon_251x118mm_010218.qxp_Layout 1 01/02/2018 11:22 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

HOP-ON HOP-OFF DISCOVER • EXPLORE • ENJOY

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EDITORIAL

GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Jon Ashford, Alicia Bachmann, Christopher Beanland, Olivia Pinnock GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton SENIOR DESIGNER Suzette Scoble PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stewart Dymock CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson

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Vol. No. 44 Issue No. 9 ISSN 0951 323X

THE SHARD © ISTOCK

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Welcome

Building sights It’s always exciting putting together the September issue, as it feels like it’s the start of a new year: children go back to school, art institutions announce new seasons and fashion brands showcase their latest designs. London Fashion Week is a brilliant – and, at times, bonkers – showcase of Britain’s greatest designers. Did you know that the top hat and trench coat were invented in Britain? Read about the designs we gave the world (p. 8). One of my favourite buildings in the world is The Shard. I have had wonderful experiences there, from celebrating in its restaurants to gazing out in awe at the capital from the viewing gallery. It’s impossible not to be impressed with this elegant glass creation, which is Western Europe’s tallest building. Its architect, Renzo Piano, is being honoured at the Royal Academy, so we’ve taken a closer look at the skyscraper (p. 12). If you love landmarks, Open House London is for you, as you can get inside places that are normally off-limits to the public, including 10 Downing Street and the BT Tower (p. 28). The Thames has been the liquid lifeline of London, with pageants, frost fairs and boat races. As Totally Thames festival takes place all this month, you can enjoy all the river has to offer (p. 6). We also recommend our favourite waterside restaurants that are loved by everyone, from locals to celebrities (p. 62). We hope you get swept away by the magic of London!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

The Shard

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TOTALLY THAMES FESTIVAL THROUGHOUT SEP

DARBAR FESTIVAL FROM SATURDAY 22 SEP

The Darbar Festival, a yearly celebration of South Asian music and culture, has grown so much, it now takes place across Sadler’s Wells, the Barbican and the Queen Elizabeth Hall over nine weeks. Akram Khan has curated a show of Indian classical dance, while other performers include Soumik Datta playing the sarod; Pandit Debashish Bhattacharya on the guitar and Sukhwinder Singh on the tabla. www.darbar.org

BERMONDSEY STREET FESTIVAL SATURDAY 15 SEP

Expect a day of fun just south of the River Thames, when local businesses get involved in this popular neighbourhood event. The street is closed to traffic for the day so that stalls can take over, selling everything from Giddy Grocer’s award-winning British pies and Smallprint’s children’s books to honey made on a rooftop at Bermondsey Street Bees. There’s also a dog show and street entertainment from the talented Pomba Girls. www.bermondseystreetfestival.org.uk

TOTALLY THAMES COURTESY OF TOTALLY THAMES; DARBAR COURTESY OF DARBAR FESTIVAL; BERMONDSEY STREET FESTIVAL COURTESY OF BERMONDSEY STREET FESTIVAL; PROMS © CHRIS CHRISTODOULOU; STILL FROM NAEEM MOHAIEMEN’S TRIPOLI CANCELLED © NAEEM MOHAIEMEN/PHOTO BY DIMITRIS PARTHIMOS; GREAT GORILLA RUN COURTESY OF GREAT GORILLA RUN

September is packed with great events, from the Last Night of the Proms to South Asian culture at the Darbar Festival

This annual festival brings more than 100 events to the capital, all celebrating the river’s heritage, traditions and stories. You can enjoy a concert in the Bascule Chambers beneath Tower Bridge (20-23 Sep), a poetry boat party (24-29 Sep) and an exhibition, The World’s Oldest Boat Race (6-23 Sep), about the Race for Doggett’s Coat & Badge, which began in 1715. www.totallythames.org

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T TURNER PRIZE FROM WEDNESDAY 26 SEP

The Turner Prize returns to Tate Britain, exhibiting the works of the four shortlisted British artists: Naeem Mohaiemen, Charlotte Prodger, Luke Willis Thompson and the Forensic Architecture group. Mohaiemen’s Tripoli Cancelled (pictured) is a fictitious film about a man who wanders alone through the ruins of an airport, trapped in a stateless limbo for a decade. www.tate.org.uk

LAST NIGHT OF THE PROMS SATURDAY 8 SEP

CANCELLED © NAEEM MOHAIEMEN/PHOTO BY DIMITRIS PARTHIMOS; GREAT GORILLA RUN COURTESY OF GREAT GORILLA RUN

The BBC Proms – the world’s most famous classical music festival – reaches its finale in the Last Night of the Proms at the Royal Albert Hall. Conductor Sir Andrew Davis leads the party with favourites such as Land of Hope and Glory. Proms in the Park, meanwhile, is an outdoor concert in Hyde Park, hosted by Michael Ball. Gladys Knight and Lisa Stansfield will be performing. www.royalalberthall.com

GREAT GORILLA RUN SUNDAY 23 SEP

The City of London’s most unusual runners are training, stretching, building their stamina and practising their growling skills. That’s because the jungle is coming to the capital for one day of utter wildness. Now in its 16th year, this charity run sees hundreds of people joining an 8km race through the Square Mile, dressed as gorillas. Funds raised are used to help stop the extinction of mountain gorillas, making this a 100 per cent joyful event. www.greatgorillarun.org

SEPTEMBER living history and take a guided 1 Witness tour of the stunning Houses of Parliament the start of the new football 2 Celebrate season with a tour of Chelsea FC Stadium miss the National Portrait Gallery’s 3 Don’t exhibition on singer Michael Jackson the final few nights of the BBC Proms 4 It’s – head to the Royal Albert Hall the kids to watch Dinosaur World 5 Take Live at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre a different perspective on history at 6 Get The British Museum’s exhibition, I Object fans – head to the Kia Oval for the 7 Cricket start of the final Test match against India the bliss of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons by 8 Feel candlelight at St Martin-in-the-Fields works by the groundbreaking Cubist 9 See artist Picasso at Tate Modern Sensational Butterflies in the show’s 10 Meet final week at the Natural History Museum a ride on the historic Mail Rail in 11 Book the tunnels of The Postal Museum along to old and new hits by Arctic 12 Sing Monkeys, who are performing at The O2 the outstanding Russian ballerina 13 See Natalia Osipova dance at Sadler’s Wells the spirit of summer going with 14 Keep cabaret and comedy at Underbelly festival an outdoor screening of the comedy 15 Catch The Breakfast Club at Alexandra Palace a dentist? Try the exhibition Teeth 16 Need instead at the Wellcome Collection See works in Courtauld Impressionists, 17 opening today at The National Gallery Enjoy a performance by a tenor tonight 18 at Handel & Hendrix in London at Asiatic lions and Sumatran tigers 19 Look up close at ZSL London Zoo along to the songs of Tina Turner 20 Sing in the hit musical about her life, Tina at old and new works from the Indian 21 Gaze subcontinent at The Queen’s Gallery Princess Diana’s glorious gowns at 22 See Kensington Palace’s long-term exhibition London Design Festival ends today, 23 The so catch it while you can amazed by the dazzling costumes and 24 Be staging at the musical The Lion King about London’s gruesome history 25 Learn at the Jack the Ripper Museum we dance? Be charmed by the musical 26 Shall The King and I, which ends this week out more about Renzo Piano’s 27 Find architectural works at the Royal Academy the beautiful State Rooms at 28 Admire Buckingham Palace – only three days left! the final day of Mel Brooks’ classic 29 It’s comedy musical, Young Frankenstein works by the four finalists of the Turner 30 See Prize, which are displayed at Tate Britain

For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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WHERE NOW | FASHION

Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2018 collection

“In the 1960s the UK was the breeding ground for social revolution”

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FASHIONING LONDON

As London Fashion Week struts into town, Olivia Pinnock takes a look at at iconic designs, from trench coats to top hats

HATS OFF While nowadays it is only sported at the most formal of occasions, the top hat is an icon of Victorian style, popularised by society names such as the famous dandy Beau Brummell and, later, Prince Albert. The design of the first top hat is regularly credited to English milliner John Hetherington around 1797, but, like many great fashion fairy tales, we can’t say if this is definitely true. We do know that they were originally made of beaver fur but as the beaver population declined, later incarnations were made of silk, as they are today. The stereotype of the mad hatter, immortalised as the Alice in Wonderland character (and in the expression ‘mad as a hatter’), is a result of the mercury used in the fur’s felting process, which caused health complications for those exposed to it. However, the association of the top hat with wealth and status has remained. Due to the fine materials used to make it and its pronounced shape, it was one of the most expensive hats you could buy. Those who wore them were men of aristocracy or industry with high social standing and the hat came to define the traditional English gentleman look.

SUITS YOU Every top hat needs a masterfully tailored suit to go with it and London’s Savile Row has been the epicentre of such craft since 1805. Over the centuries, the tailors here have defined men’s formalwear trends, most notably the dinner suit, which is commonly called by its American name, the tuxedo. The name ‘tuxedo’ appeared because of its popularity with members at the Tuxedo Park Club in New York, one of the hottest hangouts of the 1860s. Despite its association with black tie events in modern times, the suit was originally commissioned by the then Prince of Wales, who later became King Edward VII, to wear when he attended informal dinners. Unable to find any previous record of suits made to the specifications he asked for, his tailor Henry Poole went on to invent the shorter-cut evening jacket, which was originally made in blue. As tailor to many influential figures, Henry Poole was then able to offer it to clients in the UK and internationally as the trendiest new style. Even today, you will find a Henry Poole shop on Savile Row. IN THE TRENCHES As well as dressing the elite, British stylists are great inventors of outerwear to protect people from the rain. The trench coat, which is arguably the most famous design, is still seen at the shows of London Fashion Week favourites Burberry and Aquascutum. Both labels were instrumental in bringing the trench coat to prominence, and compete for the title of ‘inventor’. In the second half of the 1800s, Thomas Burberry and John Emary of Aquascutum invented a waterproof, durable material but it wasn’t until World War I that the trench coat found a true purpose for it.

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MODELS IMAGE COURTESY OF VIVIENNE WESTWOOD; GRAPHICS © ISTOCK

reat Britain is famous for many inventions that changed the world – the steam engine, the world wide web and even the toothbrush – but it’s also famous for doing it in style. In fact, many staple items that have gone down in fashion history and still hang in the wardrobes of people around the world today were the brainchild of Britain’s creative minds. This September, as London Fashion Week shines a light on what’s new, we take a look at the legacy of some truly British outfit choices.

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LONDON FASHION WEEK: 14-18 SEP London Fashion Week takes place every February and September to coincide with the new fashion season and it’s the biggest industry event of the year. It’s a chance to see the latest work of designers and place orders for what will be stocked in stores around the world next season. Founded in 1984, London is the youngest of fashion’s ‘big four’ weeks, alongside New York, Milan and Paris. In its almost 35 years, London Fashion Week has helped to project British talent onto the global stage, from household names such as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen to the rising talent of recent years, such as Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha and Matty Bovan. Unfortunately, tickets to London Fashion Week’s catwalk shows are by invite only, but make sure you take a stroll along the Strand, the home of the British Fashion Council, to spot the street-style crowd posing outside the shows. There are plenty of fashion events open to the public across the capital during London Fashion Week Festival (20-23 Sep), however. Look out for catwalk shows, talks by industry experts and a host of pop-up shops where you can browse a curated edit of designer collections at exclusive prices. This year, new festival events include yoga on a catwalk, wellness talks and gigs. www.londonfashionweek.co.uk; www.londonfashionweekfestival.com

Clockwise from this image: Savile Row tailor; Aquascutum coats; Mary Quant’s fashion; Mary Quant

Worn by officers, they were practical while also signifying rank. Back on British soil, trench coats took off as a way to show solidarity with the troops. They quickly rose in popularity during World War II and in addition to troops, they were worn by British women, who were living more active lives while the men were at war. Further cementing its status as an iconic design, the trench coat was spotted on movie screens over the subsequent years, from Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca to Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Transcending from practical wartime dressing to timeless Hollywood glamour, the coat has been famously worn by celebrities including Kate Moss. MINI MOMENTS In the 1960s, as the UK went from a land of innovation and war victories to a breeding ground for social revolution and ‘youthquake’, the mini skirt made its debut. Once again, many people have claimed the title of being ‘the first’ to design it, including French designer André Courrèges and the Englishman John Bates, who worked under the name of Jean Varon. But the mini skirt’s design is commonly credited to Mary Quant.

The epitome of the decade’s image with her Vidal Sassoon haircut, her designs were playful, colourful and branded with a flower logo. Sold through Quant’s King’s Road boutique, she was well placed to understand the women of the time. Quant named the style after her favourite car, the Mini Cooper, which summed up her fun and flirty skirts. The mini skirt was far more than just clothing, though: it represented rebellion against the ‘stuffy’ generation, and sexual liberation as the Pill became available. Quant is being celebrated next year at the Victoria and Albert Museum in Introducing Mary Quant (from 6 Apr). London’s fashion scene has been booming for centuries. Its rich history of changing the way we dress, as well as nurturing talent in its world-renowned schools and showcasing looks of tomorrow at London Fashion Week, have made it the world’s fashion capital.

SAVILE ROW TAILOR © ISTOCK; MARY QUANT DRESS © DUFFY ARCHIVE; TRENCH COATS COURTESY OF AQUASCUTUM; MARY QUANT © KEYSTONE-FRANCE, GAMMA-KEYSTONE, GETTY IMAGES

WHERE NOW | FASHION

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Evening Standard

THE UNTOLD STORY OF THE WITCHES OF OZ FOR THE BEST SEAT LOCATIONS, CHOOSE PREMIUM SEATS

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WickedTheMusical.co.uk • #WickedUK APOLLO VICTORIA THEATRE

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BEHIND THE BUILDINGS As the Royal Academy of Arts looks back at the career of Renzo Piano, the architect behind iconic landmarks from Centre Pompidou in Paris to The Shard in London, Christopher Beanland climbs up Western Europe’s tallest building

ike his buildings, Renzo Piano is elegant, restrained and thoughtful. The Genoese master builder has worked his way around the world, designing structures that have both a lightness and steadiness to them. He likes things to be precise, materials to be high-quality and the end results to have a civility as well as a certain ‘wow’ factor. And now, this grand old gentleman of architecture is about to be honoured with a show at the Royal Academy of Arts – Renzo Piano: The Art of Making Buildings. He has designed Kansai Airport in Osaka, Sydney’s Aurora Place skyscraper, Potsdamer Platz in Berlin, the new Whitney Museum of American Art and The New York Times’ offices in New York, Malta’s Parliament House and, perhaps, his most famous work: the magnificently bonkers Renzo Piano Centre Pompidou art and design museum in Paris, dreamt up along with his great friend and collaborator, Richard Rogers, in the 1970s. In London you might spy his multicoloured Central Saint Giles Piazza near Tottenham Court Road station, which seems to take inspiration from the shades of Play-Doh that kids like to mess with. But one London building of Piano’s that you can’t fail to miss is, of course, the city’s highest skyscraper, The Shard (it is also the tallest building in Western Europe).

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SHARDS OF GLASS Strangely perhaps, The Shard wasn’t universally loved at first. It was felt that the building was too overbearing, like a sore thumb sticking up out of a neighbourhood without many tall buildings. The City (London’s financial district) has sprouted

a forest of skyscrapers – including several by Piano’s friend Rogers – but the London Bridge area has few. Some aspects of the design were also questioned. The top has a kind of unfinished quality to it. Did Piano run out of ink when he was designing it? It has been difficult to let out the space in the building, however – Qatar’s foreign investment arm has ended up purchasing 95 per cent of the building. Nevertheless, The Shard has grown in the hearts of Londoners and visitors alike, not least because this is one tall building that you can actually visit. The view from the nattily titled The View from The Shard is a real eye-opener (tip: only pay to go up on a sunny day, as you can end up enveloped by mist and see nothing if it’s cloudy). When The Shard was being constructed a wily fox somehow managed to creep right up to the viewing gallery. It’s a pretty amazing space, too, because – unlike most skyscrapers – the deck is actually open; you can feel the wind and get a real sense of how high up you are. One of the cheekiest views is from the toilets in The View from The Shard. You can enjoy an amazing panorama of London through the completely see-through floor-to-ceiling windows while you do your business high above the city. The pyramid-shaped building stands at a height of 309.7 metres (1,016 feet). Piano was inspired, of course, by the appearance of glass when it breaks into shards. And glass has become a major part of his work as he’s got older. It’s no different with The Shard – the entire building is clad in glass,

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WHERE LONDON | THE SHARD

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Did you know that you can even live in The Shard? giving it a sheen on a sunny London day. It was built between 2009 and 2012 by an army of engineers and construction workers. The project also involved completely rebuilding London Bridge railway and Tube stations, which The Shard perches on top of. EAT, DRINK AND SLEEP As well as The View from The Shard, there are several other options to get you inside this modern marvel. You can stay in one of the 202 bedrooms at the Shangri-La Hotel if you want a night of luxury. There are also several bars and restaurants: Bar 31 near the bottom for a quick drink or coffee, TĪNG Lounge and restaurant for a relaxed Asian supper, and Gŏng – the 52nd-floor cocktail bar. Hutong serves cuisine from the northern part of China, while you can enjoy British flavours at Aqua Shard on floor 31. Oblix is one of the most prestigious propositions in the building – comprising a sophisticated bar and restaurant on the 32nd floor. And did you know that you can even live in The Shard? There are 13 floors of apartments – though with price tags of up to £50m, they have proved a tricky sell. The tower was envisaged by Renzo Piano as a ‘vertical city’, and it also houses the offices of companies such as Kraft Heinz, Al Jazeera and Tiffany & Co. It is one of Piano’s crowning achievements – and his upcoming Royal Academy exhibition (curated in partnership with Piano and his office) will tell you the story of the man and even more of his delicate designs. Renzo Piano: The Art of Making Buildings. From Sep 15. www.royalacademy.org.uk

From top to bottom: Gŏng Bar; dinner at Aqua Shard; cocktail at Aqua Shard

Below left to right: Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre, Nouméa; Jérôme Seydoux Pathé Foundation, Paris; Whitney Museum of American Art, New York

PREVIOUS PAGES: RENZO PIANO © FRANCOIS MORI/AP/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; THE SHARD © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: JEAN-MARIE TJIBAOU CULTURAL CENTRE © PHOTO BY SERGIO GRAZIA © ADCK – CENTRE CULTUREL TJIBAOU/ RPBW; JÉRÔME SEYDOUX PATHÉ FOUNDATION, PARIS, 2014 © PHOTO BY MICHEL DENANCÉ © RPBW; WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART © PHOTO BY NIC LEHOUX © RPBW; GŎNG BAR COURTESY OF GŎNG BAR; AQUA SHARD DISH © TIM WINTER; COCKTAIL COURTESY OF AQUA SHARD

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WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

EXPERIENCE BRIXTON

With its rich history of activism and multicultural community, Flora Neighbour looks at what Brixton has to offer for visitors

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Clockwise from this image: Brixton Windmill; POP Brixton; Windrush Square

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in vintage boutique Make Do and Mend, or listen to local radio station Reprezent. www.popbrixton.org If you’re looking for a slice of history, make your way up Brixton Hill and visit the Brixton Windmill 4. Dating back to 1816, the windmill is an interesting sight. Today, you can book guided tours of the building. Plus, it is a working mill, so you can buy some flour to take home. www.brixtonwindmill.org Make sure you pop into The Chocolate Museum !3. Despite its small size, this independent museum is packed full of information on the confectionery. The museum holds a permanent exhibition on the history of cocoa and chocolate production, with objects and memorabilia dating back to the 18th century. Just try not to eat it all before you get back home. www.thechocolatemuseum.co.uk

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PLACES TO VISIT Make sure your first stop is Windrush Square 6. This central square lies at the heart of the area and is a venue for local events. The Windrush name commemorates the arrival of the Empire

Windrush from Jamaica on 22 June 1948. For many, the ship symbolises the beginnings of modern British multicultural society. To discover more about Brixton’s history, visit the Black Cultural Archives 3. It’s the only national heritage centre dedicated to collecting, preserving and celebrating the histories of African and Caribbean people in Britain. Explore exhibitions on black culture and an archive with artefacts and documents detailing black presence in Britain. Step into Brixton and you’ll be surrounded by a hubbub of market stalls, high-street stores and buskers serenading you. Just off the beaten track, you’ll find the entrance to POP Brixton 2, a community of bars, projects and street food start-ups, all comfortably placed inside old crate containers. Pop Brixton is the perfect setting to sit in the sun and sip a cocktail from S11 Bar, get lost

BRIXTON WINDMILL COURTESY OF BRIXTON WINDMILL; POP BRIXTON AND STATION COURTESY OF WE BELONG; WINDRUSH SQUARE © MAX FORSYTHE; ABE OBEDINA © ALAN RODERICK

hether it’s your first or your 13th time visiting London, you may still have yet to venture south of the river. One of the most culturally diverse areas in the city, Brixton is ever-evolving and becoming the go-to hub for tourists of all ages. After a 10-minute Tube ride from central London on the Victoria line, or around a half-hour bus journey from Westminster, you’ll be greeted by pop-up shops, delicious international cuisine and a vibrant nightlife – the area even boasts its own currency! Here, we explain why Brixton should be next on your to-do list…

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BRIXTON DESIGN TRAIL Looking to find the latest artistic talent? Head to Brixton Design Trail, the design route for the London Design Festival

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In a creative takeover of the town centre’s public spaces, iconic buildings, bars, restaurants and more, Brixton Design Trail explores what it means to live at the heart of one of Europe’s most diverse cities, famed for its street markets, music and David Bowie. For 2018 the theme is We Belong, and this sees up to 100 local artists and designers of all ages provoking us to think about global challenges in the local context of Brixton. Head to The Department Store 1 – an award-winning development by architects Squire and Partners – to see works by Brixton-based Nigerian artist Abe Odedina (above). Visit the Black Cultural Archive 3 for an exploration of the creative legacy of the Windrush generation or listen to a public talk on Jon Daniel, who was one of the most prominent black artists of his generation: there will be something for everyone. The trail starts at Brixton Tube station, and brings the town centre to life with large-scale installations and street art. You could even end your day with a cocktail at POP Brixton 2 and catch the younger generation of artists as they reveal their take on the theme. 15-23 Sep. www.brixtondesigntrail.com

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Pack a picnic and head to Brockwell Park 5 on the edge of Brixton. Locals and tourists alike flock to this 84-acre park to relax on its rolling hills, swim in the outdoor pool or play football. You can even take a stroll to Brockwell Hall in the grounds, which dates back to 1811 and is Grade II-listed. www.lambeth.gov.uk

SHOPPING Brixton boasts a diverse mix of independent shops and boutiques alongside the more established high-street names. Every trip to Brixton should start at Brixton Village 7. This covered indoor market boasts a plethora of shops selling clothing, jewellery, art, music and lots more. Rachel & Malika’s is an eccentric place to find home furnishings, textiles and jewellery that perfectly reflect the spirit and atmosphere of Brixton Village. In a corner of the Village lies Circus, a treasure trove of homeware collectibles. Finally, don’t miss the sights and sounds of several Afro-Caribbean fishmongers and butchers. www.wearebrixtonvillage.co.uk Elsewhere, POP Brixton 2 is home to many independent designers. Make Do and Mend is the place to go to for vintage finds while Container Records is a must for the vinyl record enthusiast. www.popbrixton.org

Clockwise from above: Granville Arcade; Olive Morris; Reuse Lab

GRANVILLE ARCADE IMAGE COURTESY OF GRANVILLE ARCADE; REUSE LAB IMAGE COURTESY OF REUSE LAB; OLIVE MORRIS IMAGE REPRODUCED BY KIND PERMISSION OF LONDON BOROUGH OF LAMBETH, ARCHIVES DEPARTMENT. WWW.LAMBETHLANDMARK.COM; DAVID BOWIE IMAGE COURTESY OF ISTOCK; BRIXTON POUND IMAGE COURTESY OF BRIXTON POUND

WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

DID YOU KNOW?

BRIXTON POUND

DAVID BOWIE

Brixton was the first urban area in the UK to create its unique currency, which was launched in 2009. The currency aims to support independent local shops and traders and keep money local. The notes are most recognisable for their beautiful designs featuring activist Olive Morris and David Bowie. among other local heroes. The Brixton Pound also funds projects that give back social value to the community. The Brixton Pound Café !1 uses surplus food to create a delicious and affordable vegetarian and vegan menu. The aim is for everyone to enjoy it regardless of their financial situation, so you are asked to pay for what you can afford. www.brixtonpound.org

There are many famous faces connected to Brixton, but, undoubtedly, the most prominent has to be David Bowie. Born in Brixton in 1947, the Lambeth area has always been proud of the singer and his roots. For a real Ziggy Stardust experience, visit the Bowie mural !2 opposite the Tube station on the wall of Morleys department store.

RIVER EFFRA

Above: David Bowie mural Below: Brixton money

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The lost River Effra used to run through the streets of Brixton. Rumour has it, Queen Elizabeth I sailed up the Effra in a barge. Although you can’t see the river today, you can visit Effra Road !4 and its many pubs and bars.

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF SPOTON SOCIAL MEDIA

Brixtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cafe continental, a unique family run business thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been proudly serving customers for 25 years. Where you can sip a cappucino, a glass of wine or a beer al fresco at one of our many tables on the spacious terrace. Or you can enjoy the aromas of Arabica coffee mingling with freshly baked paninis and Italian home cooking in the cosy interior. We also offer halal, vegeterian and vegan options. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

413 Brixton Road, SW9 7DG |

BRIXTON | 020 7978 8417 | SANMARINOBRIXTON@YAHOO.COM

The Chocolate Museum

Kia Oval Tours

The Chocolate Museum is an independent museum located in Brixton. Despite our rather modest size, we cover a wide range of historical and contemporary topics: a permanent exhibition about the history of cocoa and chocolate production, a collection of objects and memorabilia dating back to the 18th century and the amazing Loveley family collection, which features rare tools used in the production of artisanal chocolate during the early 20th century. The Chocolate Museum is a place dedicated to chocolate activities, delivering a wide range of educational events for schools and hands-on chocolate workshops for chocolate lovers of all ages. 187 Ferndale Road, SW9 8BA. T: 07723-434235. www.thechocolatemuseum.co.uk. Station: Brixton

Ever since 1845 Surrey CCC has been based at The Oval, a stadium iconic the world over for its history and unique gasholders that have overlooked every game played at the ground since 1853. In addition to being the birthplace of the Ashes, in 1870 the ground hosted the first ever International football match in England between England and Scotland. Enjoy a ground tour and follow in the footsteps of the greats by taking your place on the pristine outfield, enter the Members Pavilion with decades of history and visit our Club Museum with memorabilia old and new. Finish with tea and coffee overlooking the Kia Oval outfield. The Kia Oval, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. www.kiaoval.com. Station: Oval/Vauxhall

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WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

DINING Start your day as you mean to go on with a relaxing morning coffee and a breakfast panini in the independently owned coffee shop, San Marino 8. You will find the oldest family-run coffee house in Brixton on Brixton Road, just minutes from the Tube station. www.sanmarinobrixton.com Head to the ultra-hip Brixton Village 7, where you’ll be spoilt for choice on what to eat for lunch. You’ll be invited to sample

O2 Brixton Academy

NIGHTLIFE Brixton Village

food from across the globe, including Europe, India, Asia, Africa, South America and the Caribbean. Open from 8am to 11.30pm every day except Monday, Brixton Village is a bustling, covered market space with shops, cafés and restaurants. Grab a quick bite to eat at Habesha Village, with its menu of Ethiopian street food, or unwind at Salon Brixton and choose from its menu of seasonal British cuisine. www.wearebrixtonvillage.co.uk Enjoy a delicious dinner in the crypt underneath St. Matthew’s Church at Gremio de Brixton !0. Try some of the best tapas this side of Spain and finish the night dancing to one of the resident DJs. www.gremiodebrixton.com POP Brixton 2 is the place for cuttingedge and cosy restaurants as well as start-ups. Try small plates of seasonal food at Smoke & Salt or look out for delicious buttermilk-fried chicken at Other Side Fried. www.popbrixton.org

GETTING TO BRIXTON TUBE Brixton’s Tube station is accessible from central London on the Victoria line. TRAIN Brixton’s rail station on Atlantic Road offers a fast train service into central London, taking you into Victoria in seven minutes. BICYCLE Santander Cycles can be hired across London for £2 a day. BUS Take the 159 bus from various points in the West End (including Oxford Circus, Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus) to the heart of Brixton.

Known for its vibrant nightlife, the area is home to a fantastic selection of watering holes for all types of preferences. Take the Duke of Edinburgh !5. You’ll find this traditional British pub a 10-minute walk away from the station, between Brixton and Clapham. The pub has a cosy, comfortable vibe and boasts one of the largest beer gardens in south London. It’s also close to the O2 Brixton Academy, so you could always The Prince of Wales swing by for a pre-gig tipple. www.dukeof edinburghpub.com If cocktails are your thing, make sure you try one (or two) of Three Eight Four’s !7 offerings. This small bar, which is located on Coldharbour Lane in the centre of Brixton, is the perfect place to sit with a friend and set the world to rights. Enjoy one of their small plates with one of their extremely creative and unique cocktails. We love the delicious Ziggy Stardust with home-infused citrus vodka – a nod to the famous Brixton legend. www.threeeightfour.com Rooftop bars don’t come cooler than The Prince of Wales !8 (POW to locals), just off Brixton Road. Above the pub on the ground floor, the terrace has a chilled, friendly atmosphere and is perfect for evening drinks while watching the sun go down. The terrace is home to a rum shack and has a resident DJ, as well as two other bars on each level. Plus, if you fancy a bit of a boogie, take the stairs down to the basement to finish the night on the Art Deco dancefloor. www.pow-london.com

Visiting Brixton is not complete without going to a gig or finding a venue to listen to live music. Head to the O2 Brixton Academy !6 for the latest national and international artists, as they take to the stage to perform to almost 5,000 people at one given time. The award-winning, Grade II-listed venue hosts live music, club nights, comedy shows and much more. It has seen the likes of Amy Winehouse, The Clash, Rihanna and Lady Gaga take to its legendary stage. www.academy musicgroup.com The lesser-known Hootananny !9 on Effra Road still packs a musical punch when it comes to live music. From ska to swing, grime to electro, the eclectic line-up of performers gets the crowd up and dancing every time. Arrive early to take advantage of the food stalls in the beer garden. Then grab a drink and have a game of pool after watching the headline act in the main pub area. www.hootanannybrixton.co.uk Listen to soulful jazz at The Blues Kitchen @0 on Acre Lane. Tap your toes while watching some fantastic live music performed on stage in this intimate setting. www.theblueskitchen.com

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LONDON CURATING LUXURY FOR THE DISCERNING TRAVELLER

GET ONLINE Access in-depth features and stories about everything London has to offer, from the finest restaurants, events and boutiques to the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most sought-after artisans, creatives and designers

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

GOLDEN YEARS These coffee cups are hand-finished in 22 carat gold Royal Collection Trust Lustre Coffee Cups and Saucers, £395, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, St, W1B 5BT

FLOWER POWER This feather wreath collection comes out this month Half-pint Mug, £19.95, Emma Bridgewater, 81a Marylebone High St, W1U 4QLP

Londoners love a good cup of tea – here are the most beautiful cups and teapots

CHINA IN YOUR HAND To mark the royal wedding Harry and Meghan’s Wedding China, £19.95, Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP

YOUR CUP OF TEA These mugs are created by the British designer Victoria Eggs Mugs in Red or Black, £12 each, Whole Foods, 20 Glasshouse St, W1B 5AR

POURING OUT This tea pot displays the royal crest John Lewis Royal Collection Coronation Commemorator Teapot, £125, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

TIME FOR TEA A tea set to mark the 70th anniversary of the Queen and Prince Philip Cup £195; Tray £145; Tankard £39; Rectangle Pillbox £35; Round Pillbox £95; Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP

WORD PLAY Learn cockney phrases Cockney Rhyming Slang Mugs, £12 each, Whole Foods, 20 Glasshouse St, W1B 5AR

PRODUCTS COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; FEMALE SHOPPER © ISTOCK

FROM LONDON

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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BRIDGE © OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE; THE FUTURE STARTS HERE EXHIBITION © THOMAS ALEXANDER PHOTOGRAPHY/V&A; RADICAL LOVE, DNA PORTRAIT OF CHELSEA MANNING, BY HEATHER DEWEY-HAGBORG © HEATHER DEWEY-HAGBORG AND FRIDMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK CITY; TWO IMAGES OF INSIDE THE EXHIBITION COURTESY OF V&A; DRIVERLESS CAR – SEDRIC © VOLKSWAGEN GROUP FUTURE CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES

WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

– The Telegraph

Supported by Volkswagen Group. he Future Starts Here is the V&A’s game-changing exhibition which celebrates the power of design in shaping the world of tomorrow. From driverless cars to robots, this ‘mindboggling, parameter-expanding display’ (The Times) may seem straight out of science fiction, but these objects are very real, and being worked on right now by studios and laboratories around the world. Discover inventions attempting to achieve human immortality, and projects tackling issues such as global warming alongside the next offerings from major

corporations such as Google and Apple. Marvel at the latest innovations in robotics and prosthetics and witness the increasingly blurred lines between humanity and technology. While what’s on display suggests a certain future, it is not yet determined. The future we get is up to us. #TheFutureStartsHere The exhibition runs until 4 November in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Sainsbury Gallery, a new purpose-built subterranean gallery and one of the largest temporary exhibition spaces in Europe. www.vam.ac.uk/future

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CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES

“

THIS SHOW IS FUN. TEENAGERS WILL LOVE IT – The Times

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Clockwise from top: Luchtsingel pedestrian bridge in Rotterdam; The Future Starts Here exhibition; Radical Love, DNA portrait of Chelsea Manning, by Heather Dewey Hagborg; Sedric the driverless car by the Volkswagen Group Future Center Europe; in the exhibition; dummy antenna around a fake tree by Dutch artist Jalila Essaidi

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VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRA

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

The keys to the city London is home to some of the world’s most amazing architecture. As Open House London takes place, Neil Simpson has a nose around a few exciting addresses, from 10 Downing Street to the new US Embassy Do you like looking around other people’s houses? Love to get a bit of interior design inspiration, perhaps? In that case, Open House London (22-23 Sep) is all of your sightseeing dreams come true. Buildings and spaces which are usually off-limits to the public are being unlocked, as part of a free event celebrating notable architecture. More than 750 buildings, tours and walks are in 2018’s programme, but for many it’s all about one address: Open House will be (politely) requesting that Theresa May makes a bit of room for a few extra house guests at 10 Downing Street. This is the only opportunity to apply for a tour of the Prime Minister’s home, so entry is a fiercely contested battle. A public ballot to decide who gets tickets will be open until early September. Two further public ballots for buildings are strictly for those with a head for heights: the 190m-high BT Tower, north of the River Thames in Fitzrovia, opened in 1964 to provide support for radio, TV and telephone

aerials by means of microwave signals, while there’s also a chance to explore the upper reaches of The Shard, which is the tallest building in Western Europe at 306m. Aside from those three headliners, there’s plenty more to see, including some that are making their debut this year. The gleaming new Aga Khan Centre in King’s Cross has just opened. Providing a hub for the study of Islamic studies and Muslim civilisations, the centre was designed by renowned Japanese architects Maki and Associates. Its six outdoor spaces each follow Islamic landscape design, including a rooftop garden inspired by the Mughal Empire. How about a peek inside the new US Embassy? The United States’ patch of London was previously in Grosvenor Square, and reopened in January in its new Nine Elms location, on the southwestern banks of the Thames. While Donald Trump was reportedly not impressed with the building, it is certainly worth a visit. Designed by Philadelphia’s KieranTimberlake firm, this spiralling structure includes vertical interior gardens of American

flora and walls of art inside and out. There is also a solar array on the roof, which helps produce electricity. For something far older, Covent Garden’s 1858 Royal Opera House is also joining in Open House for the first time. It’s currently in the middle of a renovation project, so you can check how the builders are getting on. Rarely out of the London headlines is Battersea Power Station, one of the city’s most satisfying sights. The work of Sir Giles Gilbert Scott – who also designed the red telephone box– it was the UK’s third largest power station until its closure in 1983. The hulking landmark and its four great chimneys were infamous for years, labelled as a cursed redevelopment project. Despite many false starts, however, its modern-day transformation into a leisure and cultural complex is almost complete. No matter where you find yourself over the weekend, download the app: it will tell you which Open House locations are nearby. Happy exploring! www.openhouselondon.org.uk

BT TOWER © C1 PHOTOGRAPHY; UCL HERE EAST © TIM CROCKER; 10 DOWNING STREET © ISTOCK; ROYAL OPERA HOUSE COURTESY OF OPEN HOUSE LONDON

Clockwise from this image: BT Tower; UCL Here East; 10 Downing Street; Royal Opera House

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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its interiors and art. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 0207499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. You can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittal orbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with a painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions to watch otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library

The Charterhouse

The world’s largest library has a great permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. To 21 Oct: Windrush: Songs in a Strange Land. To commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Empire Windrush landing (a ship carrying hundreds of migrants to London), discover the Caribbeans who arrived through poetry, novels and music. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Dating back to 1348, this historic site was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. There’s a museum about its past, while visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny, curious chapel. Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site, as it is still home to a small community of retired residents, the Brothers. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour £10; Brothers’ tour £15. www.the charterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. Normally closed to the public, you can tour the State Rooms and garden in September. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Book ahead via the Royal Collection website. Adult £24; child £13.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk/buckinghampalace. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony becomes the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; please check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal and tropical plants. Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.25. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens See Old Masters on display in this manor house, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by both ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. 22 Sep: Open House 2018. The house will be open for free 10am-5pm. House Wed-Mon 10am-5pm, gardens daily 7am-dusk; house closed 15 Sep. House entry adult £7.50; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck, enjoy afternoon tea under the hull or take part in a programme of family-friendly events. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 0208312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

MAPPERTON HOUSE © MAPPERTON HOUSE

Dinosaurs in the Wild

Housing history Did you know that there are 925 statues in the UK, but only 25 are of women? In fact, there are more statues of animals. Heritage Open Days (6-9 & 13-16 Sep) is launching a campaign to change that, and this year’s theme is Extraordinary Women. Visit buildings that are steeped in history, many of which are rarely open, and all for free. The country’s largest heritage festival unlocks the doors to places including 17th-century Cumberland Lodge in Windsor, Lloyd’s Register in Fenchurch Street, which is a City institution founded in 1760, and further afield, Mapperton House in Dorset (above). www.heritageopendays.org.uk

To 3 Sep: This immersive attraction takes visitors on a hair-raising journey back in time to the age of the dinosaurs. Allow 90 minutes for a visit. Mon 10am-noon & 2pm-5pm; Wed-Sun 10am12.30pm & 2pm-5pm. Adult £33; child £28.50. Advance booking recommended. www.dinosaurs inthewild.com. West Parkside, SE10 0BE. T: 0844854 1355. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Dr Johnson’s House Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century house. Check for staged performances, talks and tours. London: A Poem explores his first independently published work. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SIGHTSEEING Eltham Palace & Gardens Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace. 8-9 Sep: Art Deco Fair. Browse 1930s vintage stalls; from 10am-6pm (p. 58). Sun-Fri & bank hols 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Fulham Palace This 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now, it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and a programme of themed tours. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun & bank hols noon5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Go Ape Alexandra Palace

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout. Open daily; check online for time and prices. www.go ape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The fun in fundraising Meet London’s other royal family: the Pearly Kings and Queens. At the Pearly Kings and Queens Harvest Festival (16 Sep), you can watch a parade, which includes a marching band and donkeys, from Guildhall to St Mary-le-Bow Church from 1.30pm. Inspired by Henry Croft, a 19th-century street sweeper, the group continues the tradition of collecting money for charity while dressed in spectacular suits that are decorated with pearls. Go and watch to add some sparkle to your visit. www.visitlondon.com

PROMOTION

Fall in love with Clockwise from top left: Painted Ceiling at the Old Royal Naval College; Ranger’s House; Russell Howard at the Greenwich Comedy Festival; Art Deco Fair at Eltham Palace & Gardens

here’s an exciting autumn collection of art, architecture, heritage and comedy in Greenwich this month. It’s your last chance to go on a Painted Hall Ceiling Tour; this spectacular building at the Old Royal Naval College is approaching the final weeks of a long period of conservation. Until the end of September you can take a specially guided tour and get within touching distance of the ceiling. It won’t need any more work done for 100 years, so you’ll never get this opportunity again. Greenwich Comedy Festival returns to the grounds of the National Maritime Museum (12–16 Sep). The Big Top once again features

well-known comedy talent including Russell Howard, Adam Buxton, Ed Byrne, James Acaster, Milton Jones, and many more. The Art Deco Fair at Eltham Palace & Gardens (8–9 Sep) features vintage pieces from the 1930s and a glimpse of how the better-off lived when Deco brought a bright splash of style into a black-and-white world. Ranger’s House reopened this summer with new and enhanced interpretation. This elegant Georgian villa, on the boundary of Greenwich Park and Blackheath, is home to a world-class art collection including medieval sculptures, enamels, jewellery, Renaissance paintings, Dutch Old Masters and French tapestries.

PAINTED HALL CEILING TOUR © OLD ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE/LINDA NYLIND; RANGER’S HOUSE AND ART DECO FAIR © ENGLISH HERITAGE; RUSSELL HOWARD COURTESY OF GREENWICH COMEDY FESTIVAL; PEARLY KINGS AND QUEENS COURTESY OF PEARLY KINGS AND QUEENS HARVEST FESTIVAL

A treetop obstacle course for kids with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. Daily; check for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry

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SIGHTSEEING Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses has gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. Admission daily noon-4pm; garden admission daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.national trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 0208940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London See the former homes of both the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. 18 Sep: Passion and Power. A tenor performs Italian and French Baroque arias. 6.30pm; £12. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live Baroque music every Wed and Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm. Check for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building which is also a royal palace. To 6 Oct: Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament. Marking 100 years since the first women were given the right to vote in the UK, this interactive exhibition recreates long-lost parts of Parliament

and explores the history of women in the House of Commons and the House of Lords. Tours every Sat until 8 Sep. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. At the Keats and Milton: Paradise Lost exhibition, see the poet’s response to one of the greatest epic poems ever written, by reading the notes he scribbled across Milton’s verse. The third Sunday of every month is Family Day, during which you can participate in craft, music and poetry activities, even if you don’t have an admission ticket. Please check for full programme of events. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; guided tour at 3pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityof london.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, a collection dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Regular family events. Daily 10am5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org. uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 0208348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun too. It even hosts occasional adult nights! Daily from 10am to either 4pm or 7pm; closed 10-14, 17-21 & 24-27 Sep. Advance adult from £15; child from £18. On the day adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania. co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

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SIGHTSEEING The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 0207403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets

available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, CocaCola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and prices. www.the dungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Coca-Cola London Eye One of the world’s largest observation wheels. You can share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Camel Chat, while ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. To 2 Sep daily 10am-6pm; from 3 Sep daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Madame Tussauds The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history. Don’t miss the Star Wars exhibition and the chance to stand with the royals on Buckingham Palace’s balcony. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, CocaCola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This stone column in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. To 9 Sep: Dawn of Super Heroes. Look inside the world of DC Comics creations. Daily from 9.30am. Tickets £5-£10. www.theo2. co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0208463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. To 29 Sep: Painted Hall Ceiling Tours. s. During a temporary conservation project, you can see this magnificent ceiling up close on a 50-minute tour from an elevated observation deck. Adult £10; child £5. 22-23 Sep: Jacobean Undercroft Tours. Part of the Open House London festival, this is a chance to explore a vaulted space beneath the Great Hall, which is usually not open to the public. Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

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SIGHTSEEING Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

SEA LIFE London

Shrek’s Adventure!

Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. 23 Sep: Harvest Stomp. Celebrate the new season by browsing stalls showcasing locally produced food and drink. Kids are catered for, too, through a range of free activities. Adult £20; child free. Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a beautiful glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the new Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows, where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. To 3 Sep: Summer Trolls Festival. Visitors can meet Poppy from DreamWorks’ Trolls film and sing songs from the movie with her, as well as take part in craft activities. Every child will also receive a lanyard. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views. Don’t miss the Temperate House, which is the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world and has reopened following a five-year refurbishment. To 30 Sep: Climb the Great Pagoda. Ascend 10 storeys and 253 steps to the top of this 1762 tower, which has just emerged from a major restoration project. To 30 Sep: Here Be Dragons. Free, themed family attractions, including a trail of dragon sculptures hidden around the gardens. Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 0208332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for the full programme of talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews

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This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Witness daily working life and learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Kids will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as the busy programme of art sessions. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11; child £6.40; under-fives free. www.royalcollection.org.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria. The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and see the Prime Meridian Line for yourself. The refurbished planetarium’s daily programme includes Phantom of the Universe, which explores dark matter and the Big Bang: adult £8; child £5.35. 29 Sep: The Planets 2018. Holst’s The Planets was first performed 100 years ago. Inspired by modern astronomy and music, the Ligeti Quartet wonders what it would sound like if composed today. Here, eight new planetary works, created especially for planetariums, will be performed. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

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SIGHTSEEING St Katharine Docks

St Paul’s Cathedral

18 Stafford Terrace

This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is lined with markets, shops and restaurants. 7-9 Sep: Classic Boats Festival. Includes activities such as paddleboarding and canoeing. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Services held here have included the funerals of Nelson and Winston Churchill; jubilee celebrations for Queen Victoria; and the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Closed for conservation work until 8 Sep. This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who resided here from 1875. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm5.30pm, or late tour from 7pm on third Wed of every month. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music and cafés in the crypt and courtyard. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.st martin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times, which can be as many as eight times a day. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London

WELCOME TO BUCKINGHAM PALACE 21 July – 30 September 2018 10 weeks only

This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). 7-9 Sep: Food Festival. The moat is filled with stalls selling street food, artisan products, ales and gins. TueSat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – if you can’t see four major landmarks, you can visit again for free. Alternatively, make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco from 10pm on 29 Sep (£37.50; book online). Daily 10am10pm. Advance adult £24.50, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfrom theshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. To 23 Sep: The Goblet of Fire. See the goblet as it returns to the Great Hall for the first time since filming ended, alongside costumes and props. From 28 Sep: Dark Arts. To celebrate Halloween, the Great Hall is filled with hanging pumpkins, while Diagon Alley will become a scary and sinister place. You can challenge a Death Eater to a wand duel. Please check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus. 36 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

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SIGHTSEEING Wellington Arch

Capital Taxi Tours

Evan Evans

Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

London’s oldest and largest sightseeing company has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In June, the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, its four displays collectively tell the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £22; child £9. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £27; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

City of London Guides Walks Themed walks focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and City gardens, all within the Square Mile. Free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences to out-of-town locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Stratford-upon-Avon and Brighton, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens, which kids will love. The centre is also home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day. The centre also offers hands-on exploratory investigation into wetland life and habitats. 7 & 21 Sep: Bats, Bugs & Beers. An evening exploring the wetlands in the dark, during which you’ll search for animals including bats and hedgehogs, before enjoying a beer around a campfire. £25 per person; booking essential. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Free, themed walking tours every month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn. 20 Sep: Walk in the Sun. Touring 18th-century sites linked to the American Founding Father Benjamin Franklin. Meet at Farringdon Station at 12.30pm. See website for full programme. Most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top, double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Adult £37; child £19. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by bus. Departs from bus stop 15 at Trafalgar Square. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 10.30am. www.bigbustours.com. Departs Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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SIGHTSEEING Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

Jack the Ripper Tour

The London Helicopter Tour

See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour has an English-speaking guide. There are also multilingual audio commentary tours. Check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Blue Badge guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or be brave on a 20-minute ‘open door’ ride (£500 per person). Prices start from £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

Hairy Goat Photography Tours Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the acclaimed Hairy Goat has both daytime and evening options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details of grand, old or new architecture. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.

Kia Oval Tours Tour the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map.

London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours in London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagical tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Tailored Tours

PRESENTS

THE ULTIMATE HALLOWEEN EVENT!

Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter and Sports. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Hampstead. Adult £10; child free with an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Neverland Children’s Tours Fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and over; each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to play and make friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Original London Sightseeing Walk

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Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am; Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm; or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, Original Tours has launched a series of additional walks available Fri-Sun: Picture London at 11.30am; Royal London at 2.30pm and Haunted London at 6pm. £5 each, or £10 for all three walks. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 0208877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour These live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a river pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take an hour-long tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 9.30am-4.30pm; no tours on 2 & 10-15 Sep. Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

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SIGHTSEEING See London by Night Tour

London Eye River Cruise

Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Departs from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm; 8pm; 8.30pm; 9.15pm; 9.45pm and 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Live commentary on a 40-minute cruise. To 2 Sep daily 10.45am-7.45pm; from 3 Sep daily 10.45am4.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.london eye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Shakespeare’s Globe

The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to provide real-time

Reconstruction of William Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre; the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. Tours begin every 30 minutes, Mon 9.30am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm; Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shake spearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

MBNA Thames Clippers

audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75; underfives travel free. Single journeys from £4.60. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-4pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11am-5pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Twizy Tours Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by an entertaining GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent an adorable Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. Prices from £29.99 per tour. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium. com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights – and little-known cobbled streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along researched routes, giving directions and a commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures, while the Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours 90 minutes. £30 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £40 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers, returning non-stop to Westminster. Daily departures 11am5pm. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

Three domes. Five floors. And Europe’s greatest crypt. See an other side of St Paul’s. Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.

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Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039

www.goldentours.com

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £21 Child - £12

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

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SIGHTSEEING Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

OUT OF TOWN Chartwell The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill was actually bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, while Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living in it. Outside you will find a lovely kitchen garden and woodland to explore, too. Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £14.40; child £7.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted.

Westminster Abbey

So many secrets waiting to be revealed The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, hidden for 700 years

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the Thames (p. 58). To 2 Sep: No One Does Feasting Like the Tudors. This season of Tudor cooking demonstrations, events and talks transports visitors back to 1538, as the kitchen prepares a feast for Henry VIII’s son. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Book online today for fast track discounted entry Faith at the heart of the nation

westminster-abbey.org

The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Departures every 30 mins. Adult £13; child £7. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.

“One of the

best things

I’ve ever done”

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/ palaceofholyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. Daily 9am-7pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. See art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 10am-5.15pm. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk/windsor castle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

TripAdvisor Review

Helicopter Sightseeing Tours Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE Clockwise from far left: Hong Kong: Sensorial Estates; Argentina: Impenetrable Forest; Brazil: Desmatamento, all at London Design Biennale

Dedicated to design It’s easy to take design for granted, but there’s nothing like travelling to a different city to rejuvenate listless eyes. Why aren’t the park benches back at home quite as beautiful as this one? How come this train carriage is so much more attractive than the sad box you commute in back home? As your eyes and mind awaken, give them some top-notch stimulus at the London Design Festival (15-23 Sep). The festival was founded in 2002 and has been based at South Kensington’s Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) for a decade. From here, the inspirational and experimental radiate across the city; it might be the clink of specially developed porcelain at a Design Festival tea party, or an alphabet constructed from 26 colourful chairs in Broadgate. To digest its many attractions and events more easily, the festival is organised into Design Districts. At each location you’ll find a concentration of activity based within a small, walkable area. Four new hotspots have been added this year: Fitzrovia, Marylebone, West Kensington, and the Regent Street area.

Perhaps you’ll familiarise yourself with east London at the Shoreditch Design Triangle, or encounter the interior designs of your dreams on Pimlico Road. Back at the V&A, expect much excitement in its Sackler Courtyard. The festival is spreading out into the museum’s gleaming new space for the first time, with the installation of a temporary, maze-like structure. Called MultiPly, the interactive piece is fashioned from panels of American tulipwood. You can climb through this vision of the future, as you ponder ways in which homes could be designed more sustainably. Inside the museum, a room will be ‘dazzled’, where the walls have been painted with a confusing array of different, disorientating shapes. No, this isn’t modern art, but a tribute to wartime ingenuity: British artist Norman Wilkinson developed the design during World War I – drawing inspiration from Cubism, Vorticism and the natural world – and then painted it onto US merchant ships in an attempt to confuse enemy U-boats. Across town, Somerset House is hosting its own celebration of all things design at the

London Design Biennale (4-23 Sep). This is the city’s second Biennale, after a successful debut in 2016. More than 35 countries and cities are submitting work for display on the theme of Emotional States, exploring how the design of everyday objects influences our feelings and memories. Seeping into every area of Somerset House, the range of content will be dazzling. Mongolia’s representative OYUNA tells the story of the country’s cashmere industry; designers in Beirut are introducing The Silent Room – a public shed in which to escape modern life; while the Variant Studio from Latvia is installing a ‘meditative space’ to show how the country strives to interact responsibly with nature. With so many limited-edition design efforts popping up, your time in London will be truly unique. www.londondesignfestival.com; www.londondesignbiennale.com

IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGN BIENNALE; DESMATAMENTO © VELENTINA DE GASPARI

Enter a world of eye-popping creativity at two design festivals, says Neil Simpson

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s 125-year history. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tours from 11am onwards. Please check for times and prices. www.arsenal. com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. Exhibiting its books, silver, paintings, coins and photographs, plus modern gold bars and fun activities for kids. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House Charming 18th-century townhouse and the last remaining home of the American diplomat, inventor, Founding Father and musician, with tours led by costumed actors. Please check for times and prices of tours. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum

DESMATAMENTO © VELENTINA DE GASPARI

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. There’s more information about the leader in the museum. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum In this former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past and instruments of torture. The venue is said to be haunted by the ghosts of former inmates. Daily 10am-9pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Design Museum This is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. Designer Maker User is a free, permanent display of the museum’s contemporary collection. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with examples from the 12th century to the present day. Afternoon tea is served in the mural-filled

orangery. Please check for times. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Fashion and Textile Museum Museum highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. To 23 Sep: Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern. Celebrating one of Ireland’s most successful fashion exports. Please check for times. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Florence Nightingale Museum Museum located in St Thomas’ Hospital, where you can learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’, plus the celebrated Jamaican nurse Mary Seacole. Please check for times and tours. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children was founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Please check for regular exhibitions and special events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of permanent displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe and India. From 6 Sep: I Object: Ian Hislop’s Search for Dissent. British satirist Hislop curates an exhibition questioning how accurate our collective history really is. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Cartoon Museum Dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today. Tue-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoon museum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of the Victorian novelist, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in authentic Victorian style, it displays his personal possessions. Please check for times and themed walks. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Guided tour of the home of Premier League club Chelsea FC, with visit to the dressing rooms, press area, pitch side and players’ tunnel. New interactive handsets have information in many languages. The museum includes shirts of past great players. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Game on The Victoria and Albert Museum’s latest exhibition Videogames: Design/Play/Disrupt (from 8 Sep; p. 46) tackles the intricacies of the modern digital realm. Dive into the world of video games to explore design influences, as well as their cultural impact. The show challenges preconceived notions and provokes an appreciation of these creations beyond the digital world, with each section showcasing how contemporary designers, critics and players have transformed game design. The show suggests that games can generate conversations about social issues, and it looks at online and offline communities such as cosplay, which celebrates gaming in the real world. Itching to play? You’ll find a range of interactive features and immersive installations to enjoy.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Garden Museum Located in an historic church, this is the last resting place of plant hunters John Tradescant Snr and Jnr, with artefacts, a replica 17th-century knot garden and exhibitions. Please check for times and prices. www.gardenmuseum.org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North/Westminster.

The Guards Museum Learn about the history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. It’s a great insight into the Changing the Guard ceremony. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

House of Illustration

Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum. co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.

Imperial War Museum See huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to today, particularly those involving Britain. Don’t miss the Holocaust Exhibition, plus the art collection in the First World War Galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 0207416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.

Jack the Ripper Museum Victorian house exploring Jack the Ripper’s crimes, plus the history of east London during the 1880s, recreating key scenes from the serial killer’s rampage. Be warned: much of the content here is not for the faint-hearted. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jacktherippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East/Tower Hill.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, with a representation of the East End’s Jewish immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery displays a harrowing collection of accounts. Please check for times. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 0207284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work, displaying his paintings and sculptures. Don’t miss the Arab Hall with tiles from the Middle East. Check for times and tours. Adult £9; child £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

Navigate a new space Greenwich already boasts the largest maritime museum in the world, but this month it’s becoming even bigger. The National Maritime Museum is taking the wraps off its Exploration Wing, which has room for no less than four galleries (from 20 Sep). Visitors can now get access to 1,000 extra treasures from the archives, organised into Pacific Encounters, Polar Worlds, Tudor and Stuart Seafarers, and Sea Things. Those who seek adventure and drama should head to the Polar Worlds gallery, which represents an area of the globe that remains as dangerous, contested and important today as it was 250 years ago. From the legendary, early 20th-century voyaging of Scott, Shackleton and Wilson, to becoming the melting epicentre of modern climate change, it’s an electrifying subject. Elsewhere, talking statues and a digital wave await in the Sea Things gallery. This new addition is sure to strengthen your sea legs.

London Film Museum

Museum of London

Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series, including the classic Aston Martin DB5 and Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce. Daily 10am-6pm. Tour included with every ticket, Sat-Sun until 2 Sep. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day. The Votes for Women display highlights the museum’s suffragette artefacts. To 11 Nov: London Nights. This photography exhibition depicts the capital after dark from the late 19th century to today. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

London Transport Museum Depicting the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and the padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Enjoy the historic posters promoting the Underground and the Poster Girls exhibition, which highlights London Transport artwork by female graphic artists. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising See more than 12,000 items from the Robert Opie Collection, revealing how lives have changed over the past 200 years through iconic consumer brands’ advertising and packaging. The display is packed with products, magazines and posters and gives a fascinating insight into consumerism. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.18; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

Museum of London Docklands The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Ten galleries include London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.

National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum was part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Its displays include artwork and ships’ figureheads. From 20 Sep: Exploration Wing. The museum opens four new galleries displaying extra treasures. To 30 Sep: The Great British Seaside. Photography exhibition capturing 60 years of Britain’s quirky beach culture. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

PACIFIC ENCOUNTERS 1 © CASSON MANN

The UK’s only gallery dedicated to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 4 Nov: John Vernon Lord: Illustrating Carroll and Joyce. The British illustrator’s work on Alice’s Aventures in Wonderland, Finnegan’s Wake and Ulysses. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £7.50; child £4. www.houseofillustration. org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Natural History Museum

Royal Air Force Museum

Sir John Soane’s Museum

Astounding collections, with exhibits ranging from dinosaur skeletons to fossils. To 16 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. See hundreds of live butterflies and moths inside the museum’s temporary butterfly house. 1, 2 & 15 Sep: Adventure to the Deep. Head to the Attenborough Studio for an immersive, adventurous show that’s designed to highlight why we should care for our oceans. 11.15am-11.45am & 3.45pm-4.15pm. Free. To 6 Jan: Life in the Dark. Discover how animals have adapted to life in the very darkest corners of our planet. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet and the chance to climb inside selected aircrafts. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

This 19th-century townhouse was owned by the architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837. It houses his collection which he amassed from around the world, and Hogarth’s satirical works. From 12 Sep: Out of Character. Discover architectural ‘characters’ inhabiting the museum. Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Postal Museum Thousands of interesting exhibits explore postal history including old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms. You can also take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels which was used to transport post for 75 years until 2003. Please check for times and prices. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Farringdon.

Queen’s House This 17th-century house, which is an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a fine art collection spanning 400 years, including works by Gainsborough and Hogarth. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 0208858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

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Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science and technology, with a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and IMAX theatre showing 3D films. Galleries include Making the Modern World, with Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 command module, and the Mission to Mercury exhibition with a life-size model of the European Space Agency’s first craft designed to reach Mercury. Please check for times and special evening events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sherlock Holmes Museum Visit the famous address dedicated to the fictional detective where, according to the novels, he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 until 1904. The Victorian house has been maintained exactly as described in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Somerset House This 18th-century building on the Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, which closes for two years for refurbishment on 3 Sep, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants, surrounding a large courtyard. 15-23 Sep: London Design Biennale. More than 35 countries and cities submit work on the theme of Emotional States, exploring how the design of everyday objects influences our feelings and memories (p. 42). Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings the teamaker since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Uncover the story of London and its transport icons over the last 200 years Find out more and book in advance for Hidden London tours

Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB

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Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century, plus Rachel Whiteread’s celebrated artwork, Place (Village). Please check for temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics. From 8 Sep: Videogames: Design/Play/Disrupt. Discover the world of digital gaming (p. 43). To 27 Jan: Fashioned from Nature. See a display of innovative new fabrics, contemporary fashion and natural history specimens. Sat-Thur 10am5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery The Barbican, a multi-arts venue, has two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 2 Sep: Dorothea Lange/Vanessa Winship. The first UK retrospective of the late American documentary photographer Lange, alongside British photographer Winship’s first major solo show of her poetic, intimate works (Art Gallery). Check for times and prices. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 0207638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works and hosts regular talks and events. To 16 Sep: Bomberg: Touring Exhibition. A large survey of David Bomberg’s art, to mark 60 years since his death. Please check for times. Admission £5. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, designed by Sir John Soane and founded in 1811, has a collection of Old Masters. Adult £8.18; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicture gallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich.

Wellcome Trust’s public venue Estorick Collection Between 1900 and 1933, houses fascinating artefacts Bijou gallery in a Grade II-listed The British Museum had relating to health and the body. its own Tube station, Georgian building, specialising in Including permanent exhibitions which was reputed modern Italian art. To 16 Sep: The Art to be haunted Medicine Now and Medicine Man, of Campari. A celebration of the drink the collection of Sir Henry Wellcome brand’s promotional imagery. Wed-Sat with antique medical equipment. 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child To 16 Sep: Teeth. The evolution free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Canonbury of our relationship with our teeth and the dental Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map. Station: profession. Please check for times. Admission Highbury & Islington. free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, Guildhall Art Gallery NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston. See paintings collected by the City of London Wimbledon Lawn Tennis since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite Museum & Tours masterpieces. The site also houses the Roman At the venue of the famous championships, Amphitheatre, which was discovered in 1988 the museum’s displays range from old trophies (free entry with gallery ticket). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for champions, touch screens to watch past greats in special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. action and lots more. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020John McEnroe, and a virtual-reality, 360-degree 7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank. experience narrated by Tim Henman. Temporary Hayward Gallery exhibition Through the Hoops: Croquet at Wimbledon This recently refurbished gallery has regular, charts the development of croquet. Tours of the contemporary exhibitions. To 14 Oct: Drag: grounds include Centre Court. Please check for Self-portraits and Body Politics. Created between times and prices. www.wimbledon.com. All the 1960s and the present day, these self-portraits England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. all depict artists in drag. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields

11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for certain exhibitions. www.southbankcentre. co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a bar and restaurant, a bookshop and an art-house cinema. Please check for times. Adult £1; child free; no admission fee Tue. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Guided tours, talks and workshops. From 17 Sep: Courtauld Impressionists: From Manet to Cézanne. Impressionist and Post-Impressionist highlights from the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. To 7 Oct: Ed Ruscha: Course of Empire. Ruscha’s depictions of Los Angeles draw comparisons with Thomas Cole’s work. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries is more than 150 years old and includes works depicting famous British people in art. To 21 Oct: Michael Jackson: On the Wall. A look at the many artists who were inspired by the King of Pop, including David LaChapelle and Andy Warhol. To 23 Sep: BP Portrait Award 2018. Prestigious international exhibition of contemporary portrait painting. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from the modern artist’s extensive art collection. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 14 Oct: Alex Prager: Silver Lake Drive. See the trademark large-scale, Technicolor images by the American photographer. To 14 Oct: Tish Murtha: Works 1976-1991. Documentary photographer who highlighted social disadvantages in 20th-century northeast Britain. Please check for times and prices. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

The Queen’s Gallery

World Rugby Museum

This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection. To 14 Oct: Splendours of the Subcontinent. A celebration of South Asian art and manuscripts spanning the past 400 years, including pieces gifted to Edward VII in the 1870s. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/ Hyde Park Corner.

Relaunched following a huge refurbishment, this showcase for global rugby culture is located in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. You can expect to see more than 38,000 objects, including items from the 1924 New Zealand side and the 2003 England team, as well as the world’s oldest international football jersey. Discover the history of Twickenham Stadium and put your rugby skills to the test in an interactive display. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

See gold bars at the Bank of England Museum (p. 43)

GOLD BARS © BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM

V&A Museum of Childhood

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Royal Academy of Arts Attractive building with RA Collection works in all media, with a new redevelopment, providing space for more free art and educational areas. From 15 Sep: Renzo Piano: The Art of Making Buildings. Celebrating The Shard architect’s most impressive undertakings, including the Centre Pompidou in Paris and, of course, The Shard (p. 12). From 29 Sep: Oceania. Exploring the varied art of the region, to commemorate 250 years since Captain Cook’s voyage to the Pacific. Please check for times, prices and special events. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Royal Society of Sculptors Located within Old Brompton Road’s Dora House, this hub for professional sculptors hosts a regular series of exhibitions and workshops. Mon-Fri 11am5pm; Sat 1pm-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors. org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 020-7373 8615. Off map Station: Gloucester Road.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building, with temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern art exhibitions. To 7 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion. The world-famous architectural project returns, this year designed by Mexico’s Frida Escobedo. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Visit London and see the world! Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain. The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org Sponsored by

Serpentine Sackler Gallery Arts space near the Serpentine, with Zaha Hadid’s contemporary wing. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including works by JMW Turner. From 26 Sep: Turner Prize 2018. Honouring the four British artists who have been shortlisted for this year’s annual visual arts award. To 23 Sep: Aftermath: Art in the Wake of World War One. Exploring the impact of the war on British, German and French art. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern See world-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 9 Sep: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy. A look at one of the most productive years of Picasso’s life. To 14 Oct: Shape of Light: 100 Years of Photography and Abstract Art. For the first time, Tate Modern tells the intertwined stories of the birth of these two innovations in art. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery Influential gallery showcasing contemporary art. Check for times and prices. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Stars align William Shakespeare’s classic tragedy, Antony & Cleopatra, is being led by British stars, as Sarah Riches discovers Proving the course of true love never did run smooth, the tragic love story is set between Rome and Egypt after Caesar’s death. General Mark Antony takes the Roman reins but a power struggle ensues with his rival Octavius. When Antony falls in love with the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra, he is distracted by his feelings and loses a key battle. Keen to win back his love, Cleopatra fakes her death – only for her plan to backfire. Director Simon Godwin has tried to see modern parallels in his production: ‘It’s like one of [Donald] Trump’s company falling in love with the leader of another superpower. Can you imagine? It would be a huge event in world history.’ As well as presenting this production in modern dress, it is also shorter: the original normally runs at four hours, but this is three hours and 15 minutes. But don’t worry, you can still expect all of the usual Shakespearean themes of power, passion and duty. For full listing, turn to p. 50

DONMAR WAREHOUSE The theatre’s artistic director, Josie Rourke, directs Shakespeare’s play Measure for Measure (from 28 Sep; above & p. 52) about a city leader who agrees to pardon a man’s death sentence in return for sex with his sister. In this performance, the lead actors swap roles; Hayley Atwell and Jack Lowden alternate the roles halfway through, with some scenes being replayed. www.donmarwarehouse.com

SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE If you’re such a fan of Shakespeare that you don’t mind what you watch, then visit Shakespeare’s Globe on 9 Sep and vote for your favourite between Twelfth Night, The Taming of the Shrew and The Merchant of Venice – one of which will then be performed. www.shakespearesglobe.com

ANTONY & CLEOPATRA © NATIONAL THEATRE; MEASURE FOR MEASURE IMAGE COURTESY OF THE DONMAR WAREHOUSE; THE LION KING IMAGE © DISNEY

Two British stars are taking to the Olivier stage at the National Theatre for a new production of William Shakespeare’s Antony & Cleopatra. Antony is played by Ralph Fiennes, known for his roles in the Harry Potter and James Bond film series, Schindler’s List and for Broadway’s Hamlet, for which he won a Tony Award. Over the years, Cleopatra has been played by famous names including Elizabeth Taylor and Judi Dench. Joining Fiennes is Sophie Okonedo, who starred in the 2004 film Hotel Rwanda and Broadway’s A Raisin in the Sun. She’s been nominated for a Golden Globe, Academy and Bafta Award, and received an OBE by the Queen for her services to drama in 2010. The play was first performed in 1607, and theatre-goers could never have imagined it would still be going and be broadcast live; later this year the play will be screened in cinemas around the country (6 Dec).

Seasonal Shakespeare

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This sparkling Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet – just how do they do that? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (not 6 Sep). Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical. co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Bat Out of Hell This brilliant Meat Loaf jukebox musical returns to London. Set in the dark post-apocalyptic world of Obsidian, it features motorbikes and flames on stage, and has many of the well-known hits from the famous album. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£150. www.batoutof hellmusical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards, including Best New Musical. Please check for times. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (no 2.30pm show 5 & 19 Sep). Tickets £25-£202. www.bookofmormonlondon. com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Bring it On To 1 Sep: This Broadway musical about cheerleading has an original story from Tony Awardwinner Jeff Whitty (Avenue Q) and music by the Tony Awardwinning composer LinManuel Miranda (Hamilton). 7.30pm. Tickets £25. www.southwarkplayhouse.co. uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Chicago the Musical This award-winning, jazz-filled musical tells the story of Roxie Hart, her rival Velma and smooth-talking lawyer Billy Flynn, with classic songs such as Razzle Dazzle and All That Jazz. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£150. www. atgtickets.com. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Company From 26 Sep: Marianne Elliott directs this Broadway musical (p. 51), featuring Stephen Sondheim’s hits. The lead role of Bobby is reimagined as a woman for the first time. Please check for times and prices. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

Divine Proportions From 11 Sep: A night of wining, dining and

entertainment inspired by the story of Dionysus – think masked dancers, a magical cabaret, riddles and hidden passages in this theatrical dinner show. Please check for times. Over 18s. Tickets £35-£55. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Dreamgirls This sizzling musical with colourful staging follows the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago, Effie, Lorrell and Deena and is set in the turbulent 1960s. Features songs such as Listen and One Night Only. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£175. www.dreamgirls westend.com. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Embankment.

Eugenius! From 1 Sep: This fun, comical musical is inspired by comics and features a fantastic score of 1980s tracks (p. 54). Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£54.50. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 020-7087 7900. F7. Station: Victoria.

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie This feel-good musical is set on a council estate in Sheffield, northern England, and tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

42nd Street Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams who’s stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady Dorothy Brock (Steph Parry) gets injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Fun Home To 1 Sep: This Broadway version of Alison Bechdel’s graphic novel depicts Alison at three stages of her life as she delves into memories of her 1970s childhood in a funeral home, her college love life and her coming out. 2.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.youngvic. org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7452 3000. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The King and I To 29 Sep: Watch Broadway stars make their West End debuts in this awardwinning, light-hearted musical by Rodgers and Hammerstein, which is set in Bangkok in the 1860s and features an English governess and the King of Siam. Mon-Sat 7pm (not 4, 8 or 11 Sep); Wed, Thur & Sat 2pm. Tickets £29.50-£150. www.kingand imusical.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory, which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. Featuring music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France and tells the story of Jean, who is freed after being imprisoned for 19 years. Fantastic staging. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £47.25£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry, with the lion Simba and his wicked uncle, Scar. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £23£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Lion King brings alive the hit Disney musical (above) www.wheretraveler.com 49

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Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island showcasing all their famous hits, including Dancing Queen and Waterloo. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers who incurs the wrath of her evil headmistress. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathe musical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, The Temptations, Stevie Wonder and Marvin Gaye. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Rise and Fall of Little Voice

Thriller Live Now in its 10th year, non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career, with hits including Blame It on the Boogie, I Want you Back, Thriller and Billie Jean. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

To 15 Sep: Although young and timid, Little Voice has a hidden talent – she can sing like a diva. Living a lonely life in a northern town, all she wants is to be safe in her Tina: Tina Turner the Musical room with her records. No chance with A new musical based on the life of mother Mari on the rampage – she’s Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from after booze, a man, a greasy Tennessee who went on to become breakfast and a working phone the queen of rock ‘n’ roll – Tina Every Les Misérables line. When local impresario Ray Turner. Expect hits including the performance uses forces Little Voice into the 1984 hit What’s Love Got to do with It? 392 costumes, spotlight, her transformation (which won four Grammy Awards) as which includes astounds everyone. Funny and sad, well as River Deep – Mountain High, A 31 wigs Jim Cartwright’s timeless and Fool in Love and, of course, Simply the uplifting tale is a comic tragedy about Best. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. finding your voice. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£85. www.tinathemusical.com. Tickets £18.50-£32.50. www.parktheatre.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden. 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sounds and Sorcery – Celebrating Disney Fantasia To 30 Sep: Audiences wear headphones and stroll freely through tunnels in this immersive variety show, which is part concert, part comedy show, ballet and drama, with 3D projections and light installations. You might find yourself watching a dance with a funky hippo, getting splashed by a sorcerer or looking for fairies in a forest. Please check for times. Tickets £28.50-£38. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Strictly Ballroom the Musical Olivier Award-winning choreographer Drew McOnie directs Matt Cardle in this Baz Luhrmann musical, which is adapted from the 1992 film of the same name. It follows Scott, a competitive ballroom dancer who insists on bending the rules to create his own moves. It features familiar songs such as Love is in the Air, Time After Time, Perhaps Perhaps Perhaps and Standing in the Rain. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£79.50. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Sylvia 3-22 Sep: One hundred years after the first women in Britain were granted the vote, Kate Prince combines dance, hip-hop, soul and funk to shed new light on a remarkable story at the heart of the suffragette movement. Please check for times and prices. www.oldvictheatre. com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Watch Roald Dahl’s children’s story Matilda come alive on stage

Wasted

From 6 Sep: Through the lens of a rock documentary, this is the account of the struggles, heartbreaks and triumphs of the three Brontë sisters Charlotte, Emily, Anne, and their brother Branwell. Brought up in a remote, povertystricken town in Yorkshire, they fought ill health, unrequited love and family feuds to write celebrated literature. Please check for times. Tickets £14-£25. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. F10. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Wicked the Musical The brilliant, untold backstory of two young sorcery students, who develop an unlikely friendship and later become the witches of Oz. Hit tunes including Defying Gravity and Popular (p. 56). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical. co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

Young Frankenstein To 29 Sep: The legendary filmmaker and comedian Mel Brooks brings this classic monster comedy to life on stage in an allsinging, all-dancing musical collaboration with the award-winning director and choreographer Susan Stroman. Suitable for all ages, with parental guidance. Please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

PLAYS Antony & Cleopatra From 18 Sep: Ralph Fiennes and Sophie Okonedo play the famous ill-fated couple in this Shakespearean tragedy (p. 48). Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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ENTERTAINMENT Dance Nation An army of competitive dancers is ready to take over the world, one routine at a time. With a pre-teen battle for power and perfection raging on and off stage, Dance Nation is a ferocious exploration of youth, ambition and self-discovery. Please check for times and prices. www.almeida. co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Dust From 4 Sep: Following a run at Edinburgh Fringe 2017 and Soho Theatre, this play transfers to the West End. Alice thinks life isn’t worth living, so she kills herself. But she’s stuck. A fly on the wall. Forced to watch the aftermath of her suicide and its ripple effect on her family and friends, Alice quickly learns that death changes people and discovers that death isn’t the change she hoped for. Suitable for over 18s. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy, featuring all the much-loved

characters. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50-£74.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Unexpected Joy 5-29 Sep: This musical follows three generations of female singers. Joy, a baby boomer pop star, is visited by her daughter, Rachel, and granddaughter Tamara. Rachel is married to a prominent televangelist, so Joy is reluctant to divulge that she’s planning to marry Lou, another female singer. A week with all four together is bound to lead to tension. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story has already won many awards. Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Most tickets sold out; please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Home, I’m Darling To 5 Sep: Every couple needs a little fantasy to keep their marriage sparkling. But behind the gingham curtains, things start to unravel, and being a domestic goddess is not as easy as it seems. Katherine Parkinson (TV’s The IT Crowd, Humans) plays Judy in this unsettling new comedy about one woman’s quest to be the perfect 1950s housewife. Please check for times and returns. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Importance of Being Earnest Michael Fentiman’s witty new production of Oscar Wilde’s romance stars Olivier Award winner Sophie Thompson and Jeremy Swift. Please check for times and prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

Julie To 8 Sep: August Strindberg’s Miss Julie finds a new home in contemporary London. Wild and newly single, Julie throws a party late at night. In the kitchen, Jean and Kristen clean up as the celebration continues around them. Crossing the threshold, Julie initiates a power game with Jean. It descends into a savage fight for survival with intriguing results. Vanessa Kirby (The Crown) stars. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Jungle Astounding, immersive production set in an Afghan café in the Calais refugee camp. The moving stories of the migrants, escaping dangers in their home countries around the world, are brought to life with ingenious staging where the audience feels part of the setting. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£80. www.atgtickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844 871 7615. E8. Station: Embankment.

MATILDA IMAGE COURTESY OF MATILDA; COMPANY PHOTO © JOHN NGUYEN

King Lear Stalwart actor Ian McKellen stars as a mad king who tries to divide his kingdom between his three daughters, in Shakespeare’s classic tragedy. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£145. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Lehman Trilogy

Love and marriage A musical comedy that was nominated for 14 Tony Awards – six of which it won – when it debuted on Broadway in 1970 is coming to London. Company at the Gielgud Theatre (from 26 Sep; p. 49) centres around Bobby’s 35th birthday party, where her married friends question why she hasn’t settled down. The West End version features a female Bobby (Rosalie Craig) for the first time. She’s joined by the Tony, Olivier and Grammy Award winner Patti Lupone (Gypsy, Sweeney Todd) as her friend Joanne, while Mel Giedroyc plays her friend Sarah. The story is based on a book by George Furth and directed by Marianne Elliott, who is behind the successful show The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time. Tunes include The Ladies Who Lunch, Being Alive and Side by Side.

Sam Mendes directs this play about three siblings who set up the Lehman Brothers bank, which, when it collapsed 163 years later, triggered the 2008 financial crisis. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Lover/The Collection From 13 Sep: Playful and provocative, The Lover features a conventional, suburban couple in unconventional circumstances. The Collection meanwhile, is hailed as one of the outstanding plays of the 20th century by Laurence Olivier. It delves into the intriguing mystery of two London couples linked by sexual desire and a quest for supremacy. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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ENTERTAINMENT Measure for Measure

Pressure

From 28 Sep: Artistic director Josie Rourke’s production imagines this Shakespeare play (p. 48) in its original year of performance, 1604, and in 2018. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

To 1 Sep: D-Day, June 1944. The Allied forces led by General Eisenhower are poised to launch. Around 350,000 lives are at stake and the decision of whether or not to attack comes down to the most important weather forecast of all time. Olivier Award-winner David Haig plays the Scottish meteorologist, group captain James Stagg in this true story. 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£75. www.theambassadorstheatre.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Set in a country house, a murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Othello André Holland takes the title role in this classic Shakespeare tragedy, set in the republic of Venice, about a general whose jealousy is exploited by his junior officer, Iago (Mark Rylance). Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Play That Goes Wrong Award-winning slapstick comedy, now in its fourth year, is about an accident-prone amateur drama society staging a 1920s murder mystery, where everything that can possibly go wrong, does. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong. com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Witness for the Prosecution

Barbican 7-9 Sep: Landmark Productions & Irish National Opera Second Violinist. A dazzling modern opera. 19 Sep: Sir Simon Rattle continues Roots and Origins with Janáçek, Szymanowski and Sibelius, who transform myth and folklore into soaring musical effigies. 27 Sep: Guildhall Symphony Orchestra & Chorus – Verdi’s Requiem. Please check for times and prices. www. barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Royal Albert Hall This show is based on The Mousetrap is the London’s premier music hall, home Agatha Christie’s gripping longest-running play in to the annual BBC Proms. 8 Sep: courtroom drama, Witness for the West End. The show Prom 75: Last Night of the Proms. the Prosecution, and is staged in was first performed Sir Andrew Davis, the much-loved a former courtroom. Directed by in 1952 former chief conductor of the BBC Lucy Bailey, the audience act as the Symphony Orchestra and a veteran of jury for Leonard Vole, who is accused the Last Night, returns to direct the greatest of murdering a widow to inherit her wealth. annual party in classical music. Please check for Some of the audience are seated in the former times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. chambers. Tickets from £10-£75. Tue-Sat Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s gothic novel, about a young lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. It’s a really spine-chilling tale. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £22.50-£85. www. thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

A lost generation Following a hit world premiere at the Young Vic, Matthew Lopez’s play The Inheritance is transferring to the Nöel Coward Theatre (from 21 Sep). Emotional and at times comical, it has been hailed a modern classic for its portrayal of middle-class gay men in Manhattan and the legacy of the AIDS crisis. Inspired by EM Forster’s 1910 novel Howards End and Tony Kushner’s 1990s play Angels in America, it stars Vanessa Redgrave (left) – who is the only woman in the play. The six-hour show is in two parts, which can be watched in one day or over two evenings. www. noelcoward theatre.co.uk

St James’s Piccadilly This charming 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. 1 Sep: Mozart Requiem by Candlelight. 8 Sep: Vivaldi Four Seasons by Candlelight. 15 Sep: Beathoven’s Moonlight Sonata by Candlelight. 20 Sep: A Night at the Opera. 27 Sep: Allegri Miserere by Candlelight. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall 17 Sep: Trio Mediæval. The all-female vocal and

instrumental trio blends sounds from medieval Europe and Scandinavian folk songs in a performance enhanced with melody chimes, shruti box and hardanger fiddle. 1pm. Tickets £14-£16. 18 Sep: Classical Opera/The Mozartists. The Mozart 250 series continues with the one-act Bastien und Bastienne, composed in Vienna 250 years ago. 7.30pm. Tickets £18-£40. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 4 Sep: Madeleine Rose Witney present: Inside the Mind of Etta James. 10 Sep: Motown Gold. 12 Sep: Binker & Moses. 16 Sep: Leela James. Please check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 6-8 Sep: Barry Manilow. 9-13 Sep: Arctic Monkeys. 20 Sep: 50 Cent. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Map inset. Station: North Greenwich.

VANESSA REDGRAVE PHOTO © SIMON ANNAND

The Mousetrap

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL

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Zero to hero For a heady dose of 1980s nostalgia, catch Eugenius! at The Other Palace (from 1 Sep). It’s produced by Star Wars’ Warwick Davis and features a live band playing an original score of catchy tunes inspired by 1980s tracks. Fast-paced and energetic, the romantic comedy follows Eugene, a lonely, awkward teen who’s bullied at school but is a genius at writing and illustrating comics. After entering his comic into a competition, Hollywood comes calling – resulting in a sci-fi twist. 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0207087 7900. www.theother palace.co.uk. F7. Station: Victoria

London’s famous jazz venue. 1 Sep: China Moses. 3-8 Sep: Georgie Fame with the Guy Barker Big Band! 14-15 Sep: Ian Shaw. 16 Sep: Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Orchestra. 28-30 Sep: Stacey Kent. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co. uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Roundhouse Great venue for live music. 21-22 Sep: Sleaford Mods. 26 Sep: Franz Ferdinand. www.round house.org.uk. Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8EH. T: 0800 6789 222. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

DANCE

19-20 Sep: English National Ballet. This performance marks the centenary of the end of World War I. The show is a moving programme, and includes a dance by the eminent choreographer Akram Khan. Watch his awardwinning piece Dust. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera. From 28 Sep: Salome. Based on Oscar Wilde‘s lurid play, Strauss‘s opera is an intense psychological exploration of the Salome story. Raised a princess, Salome can have everything she wants, except the one thing she needs. Her life twisted by control and neglect, she finally finds her own terrible power. Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House

Royal Festival Hall

From 24 Sep: Das Rheingold. Antonio Pappano conducts the first opera in Richard Wagner’s Der Ring des Nibelungen, with a cast including John Lundgren and Johannes Martin Kränzle. From 29 Sep: Siegfried. The third opera in Richard Wagner’s epic cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen revels in its depiction of heroism even as it sets up the cycle’s dramatic conclusion. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org. uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

8-9 Sep: Jess Thom’s version of the short

Wilton’s Music Hall

Barbican 12-15 Sep: Black Whyte Gray by Boy Blue. This

hip-hop dance triple bill reflects themes of identity, oppression and transcendence in a performance of pure physical poetry. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£25. www.barbican. org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Not I monologue by Samuel Beckett is part performance, part dance. Thom has Tourette syndrome, which liberates him and the audience from the constraints of Beckett’s notoriously difficult dramatic monologue and asks important questions about the accessibility of art. Please check for times and prices. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Sadler’s Wells 5-6 Sep: Breakin’ Convention presents

Pierre Rigal’s latest work, Scandale. The show features six agile hip-hop dancers, accompanied by a live musician whose soundtrack includes ambient chamber music and electronica. 12-16 Sep: Natalia Osipova – Pure Dance. The superstar Russan ballet dancer brings an eclectic programme of dance works to the theatre.

3-8 Sep: English National Opera visit Wilton’s Music Hall for the first time with its first staging of Paul Bunyan, Benjamin Britten’s retelling of the legend of the eponymous giant, as part of its ENO Studio Live series. Please check for times and prices. www.wiltons.org.uk. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley (pedestrian access only), E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms To 8 Sep: Annual, historic festival celebrating classical music, with the aim of bringing it to the masses at reasonable

Watch Andrew Lloyd Webber’s The Phantom of the Opera (p. 50)

PHANTOM OF THE OPERA © JOHAN PERSSON; EUGENIUS IMAGE COURTESY OF THE OTHER PALACE

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club

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IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

prices. While most events take place at the Royal Albert Hall, some take place in unusual venues, plus chamber recitals in Cadogan Hall. The grand finale is held at the Royal Albert Hall and also coincides with a major outdoor concert in Hyde Park. Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk/proms. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Luna Cinema To 6 Oct: This annual summer festival of outdoor film screens classic films and blockbusters such as Dreamgirls, Ghostbusters and The Rocky Horror Picture Show under the stars at iconic venues around London and the UK, from the beautiful Alexandra Palace near Wood Green to Crystal Palace Park in south London. Please check for times and prices. www.thelunacinema.com. T: 0844-858 6767.

Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre To 9 Sep: Dinosaur World Live. Join an interpid explorer across unchartered territories to discover a prehistoric world. To 15 Sep: Little Shop of Horrors. Flower shop assistant Seymour discovers a mysterious new plant with killer potential. Please check for times and prices. www.openairtheatre. com. Open Air, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Underbelly Festival To 30 Sep: The annual festival on the South Bank has a packed summer schedule of comedy, circus, cabaret and family shows, plus one of London’s biggest outdoor bars. Shows include House of Burlesque Revue (to 27 Sep) Aurora Galore and the Glamorous Weirdos (to 11 Sep), Ukeclear Power (to 26 Sep) and Black Cat: Bohemia (to 30 Sep). Please check for times, prices and full programme. www.underbellyfestival.com. Belvedere Road Coach Park, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES The Everywhere Bear

Kids will love Wicked the Musical (p. 50)

WICKED IMAGE COURTESY OF WICKED

From 13 Sep: A story from best-selling author Julia Donaldson, with rhyme, music and puppets. Aimed at children aged three to eight. Adult £13.50; child £11.50. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Top to bottom: Hampton Court Palace; Handmade Fair; Handmade Fair

The old and beautiful There is no denying that a grand setting can enhance your shopping experience. This month, you’re in luck as some of London’s most beautiful palaces are holding special shopping events, which means you can enjoy sightseeing while picking up some souvenirs. Hampton Court Palace, which was built in 1515, was the home of Tudor, Stuart and Georgian monarchs. King Henry VIII loved the palace and was one of its most famous residents – he turned it into a theatre and leisure complex. The palace was later expanded by Sir Christopher Wren, and includes a beautiful Baroque palace. This historical landmark beside the River Thames is the setting for The Handmade Fair (14-16 Sep; p. 41). Kirstie Allsopp, a television presenter who has hosted many home improvement shows, is behind the fair. Throughout the day, you can learn how to upcycle furniture, take part in pottery and sewing classes, write calligraphy and browse stalls offering bespoke as well as handmade items, from accessories to fabrics. You can also meet experts in their field and listen to talks on a range of topics, including how knitted garments are made and the language of flowers. You too can create your own souvenirs on your visit, as there are classes teaching you how to make cards, cushion covers, head scarfs and skirts. Eltham Palace is one of the most spectacular Art Deco buildings in London. The venue has a fascinating mix of styles – there is an historic garden, medieval palace and a bunker. The Art Deco Fair (8-9 Sep; p. 30) is a fitting event, as it sees the palace taken over with vintage items from the 1930s, selling everything from jewellery to furniture. Alexandra Palace in north London – commonly called Ally Pally – was known as ‘The People’s Palace’. It was the original home of the BBC, and still is the venue for many concerts and sports events. This month, you can enjoy the Antiques & Collectors Fair (2 Sep), which attracts more than 300 antiques dealers. Ceramics, artworks, retro homeware and vintage jewellery – the fair gives you the chance to pick up a real gem (www.alexandrapalace.com).

HAMPTON COURT PALACE © ISTOCK; HANDMADE FAIR COURTESY OF THE HANDMADE FAIR

If you’re after a stunning setting in which to shop for souvenirs, then head to one of London’s glorious palaces to enjoy one of their special sales events, says Kohinoor Sahota

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Covent Garden

Hamleys

Carnaby

This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

King’s Road The iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with antique and furniture shops. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys. com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Food and meat halls, fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

John Lewis

FASHION Banana Republic The flagship for this American company has men and women’s clothes. www.bananarepublic.eu. 224 Regent St, W1B 3BR (and branches). T: 020-7758 3550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Burberry Browse the full London collections. www.burberry. com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products (multiple locations around London). www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.

Christian Louboutin

Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Find covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.john lewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Savile Row

Liberty

One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park.

Find trendy prints on everything from scarves to notebooks. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

As one of the most desirable luxury brands in the world, Gucci brings its legendary Italian quality and innovative design to London (multiple locations). www.gucci.com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE. T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Selfridges

Hermès

Oxford Street

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

IMAGE COURTESY OF JAPAN HOUSE

Fortnum & Mason

This is the largest shop on Oxford Street. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion, as well as bars and restaurants. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of chic red-soled shoes (multiple locations). www.christianlouboutin.com. 17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ. T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.

Gucci

Staying true to high-quality accessories such as belts, this store offers the finest designs from the French brand (multiple locations around London). www.hermes.com. 1 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PX. T: 020-7823 1014. F5. Station: Sloane Square.

Foreign affairs Japan House is more than just a shop – it has exhibitions, shows and a restaurant – and there has been much excitement about it opening. The store, which is located on the ground floor, is both a gallery and a shop. Each item for sale has been chosen for its monozukri – meaning craftsmanship – and serves to be beautiful and functional, whether it’s kitchenware or an accessory. And, if you’re after a book to read on your travels, there are plenty on Japanese architecture, food and fashion. 101-111 Kensington High St, W8 5SA. T: 020-3972 7100. www.japanhouselondon.uk. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington

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SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles)

Mari Vanna

Sloane Street & Knightsbridge

Burberry

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

Boodles Salvatore Ferragamo Alberta Ferretti Ermenegildo Zegna Tom Ford Ermanno Scervino

Boss L.K.Bennett

GE R I DHarvey Nichols B S

Lacoste Dolce & Gabbana Watches of Switzerland Tommy Hilfiger

Moncler

Graff Porsche Design

Louis Vuitton

MONT

Ted Baker Gucci KNIGHTSBRIDGE Roberto Cavalli D Rochester Big & Tall Clothing A Space NK Dior O R Mulberry in Harrods Godiva Jimmy Choo N in Harrods Bottega Veneta Harrods TO R ESCENT P Gap Karen Millen Escada in Harrods M O in Harrods Pinko Nespresso Tods R B Reiss Caroline Castigliano Giorgio Armani HA

PELIE

S EN

RT GE EG

. FULH A M RD

RE ER NY

Hackett Zadig & Voltaire Smythson Tiffany Kate Spade J.Crew SLOANE

Peter Jones SLOANE SQUARE Boggi Milano SQUARE NS D G T.M.Lewin D Boss OR CO Massimo Dutti LF Links of London AY CU R DRussell & Bromley D E C A Eric Bompard A Calvin KleinP LUnderwear R O Michael Kors Y T S A S Whistles R N B Hobbs O G ’ L.K.Bennett LS N I U K Jigsaw CO Sarah Pacini Kurt Geiger Catimini Reiss Elliot Rhodes Thomas Sabo P

E ST LOWER SLOAN

Folli Follie

AN KL IN

’S RO W

Anthropologie

G’

N KI

A RO

Zara

Hawes & Curtis Penhaligon’s

Cath Kidston

N ROAD

O E R

NE SLOA T & E E STR BRIDGE HTS I N K G xur y stores lu r For esigne and d ion fash

L.K.Bennett

PAV I L I O

A N G

OGA

TER

YCO

R SLOANE TER

Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. This chocolate shop has mouthwatering truffles, which are presented in beautiful boxes. The café serves a huge choice of treats from chocolate cakes to hot chocolate. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com

Anya Hindmarch L Chloe W I L B R A H A M P Escada Jo Malone CAD

ELLIS ST

Godiva

Lulu Guinness ACE CADOGAN PL

E C A D O G A N G AT

DRA

Emilia Wickstead Atelier

SOUTH KENSINGTON (0.4miles)

EET

REET PONT ST

ACE CADOGAN PL

AD PAV I L I O N R O

SQUARE

MEWS

T N S

MEW

ING

CLABON

DNS OX G

CADOGAN

LENN

Van Peterson Designs Andrew Martin

ET SLOANE STRE

J.Crew

’S

STR

Agent Provocateur

Herve Leger

REET PONT ST

W M Hawkes & Son

Katharine Pooley

CADOGAN PLACE

HANS ST

HAM

PEL

Loro Piana Prada

Lauren B C D H Emporio Armani A A John Boyd O M R P Stewart Parvin P N Caroline Charles Bruce Oldfield L Amrapali A TO Suzanne Neville C P E M Haute Couture RO YE

LA E P

18 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7QN. T: 020-7980 8427. www.burberry.com

TA G

Burberry is one of Britain’s leading brands and is famous for its checked prints and for having NS GD invented the iconic trench coat, ELL CROMW which was used during World War I. The store also stocks stylish accessories including shoes, bags and wallets.

L S T

R ST

COT

Burberry

Coccinelle

Miu Miu Versace Fendi Bulgari Dolce & Gabbana Valentino Saint Laurent Emilio Pucci ST B CHANEL OM TC O Arije M Christian ST N La Perla LouboutinH A L K I Hermes W LO

SLOANE STREET

SIL

Russell & Bromley

Bonhams

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SHOPPING

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS

KIDS’ STORES

Bicester Village

LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Find discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Check for times. www.bicester village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major London hotels.

Westfield London This mall has more than 450 shops. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris Couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

LEGO Store

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Japan Centre Seek out this subterranean shop for sushi, hot dishes and ceramics. www.japancentre.com. Please check for opening times. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 0203405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

London Glassblowing Pick up a souvenir and try glassblowing at the UK’s leading studio and gallery for glass art. www.london glassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings This shop, which has been trading since 1706, is filled with teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Small wonders Proving that small can be beautiful, Mini Mode (15 Sep), which takes place in Old Street, celebrates fashion for children. New and established designers are represented here, and you can enjoy fashion shows, a buyer’s lounge and family fun – a kids’ DJ, anyone? www.mini-mode.co.uk

MINI MODE © EMMA WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY, CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK; FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

Euro

WOMEN’S CLOTHES XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

MEN’S CLOTHES (CHEST) S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN’S CLOTHES 4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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DINING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Terrace at The Bingham; Le Pont de la Tour; food at The Bingham; The Summerhouse

Water way to dine September might be the month children go back to school, but it’s still warm – so if you’re lucky enough to be in London, then why not eke out the sunshine and dine by the water? If you can’t fit in a trip to the seaside, then stroll along the Regent’s Canal to Little Venice to visit The Summerhouse. Navy-and-white banquettes and cushions adorned with anchors line a white-painted brick wall decorated with shells, paddles and fishing nets – there’s even a porthole. On a sunny day, nab a table on the covered terrace, which has views of paddleboarders, kayakers, canalboats and swans drifting along the water. The terrace has a canopy, blankets and heaters later on in the evening, when it glitters in candlelight. If you haven’t guessed by now, the restaurant serves well-presented seafood such as fish and chips, New England clam chowder, seared scallops and oysters. You can also opt for a sharing platter of smoked salmon, popcorn shrimp, fried calamari and huge prawns. Save space for a knickerbocker glory – a British seaside sundae – washed down with a glass of rosé or a lychee and rose Martini (www.thesummerhouse.co).

If The Summerhouse is full, try its nearby sister restaurant The Waterway, which has a large deck and garden with parasols, blankets and heaters overlooking the canal. Its modern European menu features tuna tartare, roasted sea bass, chargrilled squid and Gressingham duck alongside Pimm’s Eton mess (www.thewaterway.co.uk). At the other end of town close to Tower Bridge is Le Pont de la Tour which, as the name suggests, is a French restaurant. Since opening on the ground floor of a former tea warehouse in 1991, it has gained a reputation for business lunches. It may not be cheap, but it is special: Tony Blair invited Bill Clinton here for a quiet dinner in 1997. Its terrace tables are bordered by plants and covered by an awning, but you’ll still enjoy grand views of majestic Tower Bridge and boats cruising the Thames. The interior is inspired by a 1935 French ocean liner – think dark wood set against brass lamps, mirrors and obligatory white tablecloths. Start with caviar followed by beef fillet with truffle mash, or line-caught Cornish cod. Got a sweet tooth? Then finish with crêpes

Suzette or a rhubarb and frangipane tart with lavender and yoghurt sorbet, paired with wine recommended by a knowledgeable sommelier (www.lepontdelatour.co.uk). Head west down the river to Richmond for a meal at The Bingham, a hotel with an interesting history. Built in 1740 as two houses with stables and a coach house, its beauty drew the attention of King George III. Its modern British restaurant has three AA Rosettes, marking it as ‘outstanding’. Typical dishes include artichoke salad, courgette risotto with asparagus, broad beans and lemon ricotta, and blackberry trifle. It also holds special events such as a Spanish wine dinner (20 Sep). The raised sun-trap terrace overlooks a manicured lawn with flower beds, where you can watch ducks, kayakers and yachts bobbing by on the River Thames. Parasols provide shade while fairy lights and heaters get turned on at night. The ground-floor terrace, which is covered by a canopy, also overlooks the garden and river. The garden is covered by trees and can be booked for a private dining experience (www.thebingham.co.uk).

THE BINGHAM COURTESY OF THE BINGHAM; LE PONT DE LA TOUR COURTESY OF LE PONT DE LA TOUR; THE SUMMERHOUSE COURTESY OF THE SUMMERHOUSE

When the sun shines, there’s nowhere better to dine than in a restaurant by London’s waterways, says Sarah Riches

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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 80-81

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Excellent choice for succulent Argentine steaks, with a wine bar, supper lounge and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches). T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodman restaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, with rock memorabilia and a fun vibe. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Sophisticated rotisserie with a grill and wood-fired oven serving dishes such as suckling pig for two. The views from midway up The Shard are stunning. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. Level 32, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Fera at Claridge’s

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Art Deco restaurant serving local, organic and British dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque and try a glass from the excellent wine list in a dining room with a whimsical, century-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. The British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room Smart brasserie next to the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist, plus a seafood counter. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

Magpie

St Pancras Brasserie All-day British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys stpancras.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Tom’s Kitchen Delightful all-day brasserie serving modern comfort food, popular for weekend brunch. ££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk. 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 020-7349 0202. Off map. Station: South Kensington.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)

Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes arriving at the tables on trolleys, dim-sum style. Try the baby squid with spicy Calabrian sausage, grilled turnip and mussel sauce. Highly recommended. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This elegant Mayfair restaurant is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Montague

Café in the Crypt

This brasserie offers seasonal dishes and weekend brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.londonchurchill. regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 0207299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Underneath the church, or outside in the courtyard, you can dine on homely, good-value dishes. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Butlers Restaurant

Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia, and an international menu featuring Asian stirfries, steaks and sliders. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine and fantastic views at this restaurant on The Shard’s 31st floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Aviary Smart restaurant with a rooftop terrace, serving British dishes, including an excellent Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.aviarylondon.com. Montcalm Royal London House hotel, 22-25 Finsbury Square, EC2A 1DX. T: 020-3873 4000. D10. Station: Moorgate.

SAKAGURA DISHES © STEVEN JOYCE

Caxton Grill Superb selection of steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes. There’s also a bar and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

City Social Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts beautifully presented creative dishes, plus City views. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.citysocial london.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Full steam ahead One of London’s great restaurant secrets is Heddon Street, a horseshoe-shaped lane running parallel to Regent Street, with a strong line-up of restaurants. The intimate Japanese restaurant Sakagura pulls you into a world of low lights, dark wood and fluttering noren (traditional fabric dividers). An ishiyaki, or grilling stone, is brought searing-hot to your table, ready for cooking beef cuts including the show-stopping Wagyu beef; try the soft Australian Wagyu sirloin. Make sure you leave room for dragon uramaki rolls, each a tangle of velvety flavours of grilled eel, avocado and king prawn. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BU. T: 020-3405 7230. www.sakaguralondon.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus

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DINING Cheneston’s Try pan-seared venison or Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The English Grill Hotel restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Palm Court This grand hotel lounge, which has a colonial conservatory vibe, is ideal for afternoon tea. Please check for opening times. ££. www.phcompany. com. Principal London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb cuisine in this dining room, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate, with hearty, meaty dishes including rump steak and rib of beef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.

The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast, plus a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

CHINESE

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Mouthwatering selection of hearty, modern cooking in this former bank with a glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay In Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy This firm favourite on London’s dining scene is loved by celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

OXO Tower Smart restaurant on the Thames that’s perfect for special occasions. ££££. Daily L & D. www.harvey nichols.com. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Ting In The Shard, dine on European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/ london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Angler Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal produce. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.

Fancy Crab Sample dishes including crab bisque. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.

J Sheekey Seafood and oyster restaurant with a Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Neptune For a special occasion, opt for the seafood platter and oysters in this Grade II-listed dining room. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.phcompany.com. Principal London hotel, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop decorated with 1950s memorabilia. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies fishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Bright Courtyard Club Choose from Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including lobster with noodles and Peking duck, in a sleek setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 0203819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Min Jiang Take in glorious park views while dining on Sichuan cuisine, dim sum and spicy seafood dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang. co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Indian dreams Ever since the US Embassy moved to Battersea, a burst of new restaurants have opened in the area. Chokhi Dhani, which specialises in Rajasthani food, is just one of them and is already proving to be a success. Start with a drink in the downstairs bar, which is adorned with Indian artwork. Then head to the restaurant – the glass tables act as display units for jewellery that you can buy, and there are beautiful views of the river. Choose a Rajasthani thali: the Maharani thali with vegetables, or the Maharaji thali with chicken and lamb. There are also unexpected offerings, from ostrich to slow-cooked rabbit. Eager to offer an experience, on some nights there is also a palm reader and henna artist. 2 Riverlight Quay, Nine Elms Lane, SW11 8AW. T: 020-3795 9000. www.chokhidhani.co.uk. Off map. Station: Battersea Park

PHOTO COURTESY OF CHOKHI DHANI

Fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant with stunning decor, serving modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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DINING Brasserie Joël This excellent French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel This bustling French brasserie and bar is set in a grand dining room with a high ceiling. Its set menu is excellent value. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room shrouded in flowers, with an excellent wine list. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sketch

GASTROPUBS The Wigmore Enjoy dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by Michel Roux Jr. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thewigmore.co.uk. 15 Langham Place, Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya. biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares The Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates sophisticated modern Indian cuisine. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes Pukka bar. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant serves North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Indian Accent Manish Mehrotra is regularly voted one of India’s best chefs and now he’s opened a London branch of his New Delhi restaurant. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. www.indianaccent.com. E7. Station: Green Park.

Masala Zone In this vibrant restaurant, enjoy street food, thalis and regional curries. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are served in this stylish restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; daily D. www.mint leaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Midas touch After working in Japan and Peru, chef Nobu Matsuhisa took his skills to the States, attracting Hollywood stars such as the actor Robert De Niro. He is such a fan that he is a stakeholder in the global empire’s second London branch. Nobu Shoreditch is a 240-seat restaurant on the ground floor of Nobu Hotel Shoreditch. Dimly lit, sleek and sexy, the interior features an open kitchen and a bar and staircase glowing with gold lights. Menu highlights include the chef’s signature black cod in miso, plus tuna tataki, rock shrimp and truffle Parmesan rice. Once again, it seems, Nobu has struck gold. 10-50 Willow St, EC2A 4BH. T: 020-3818 3790. www.nobuhotelshoreditch.com. Off map. Station: Old Street

Tamarind In this smart Mayfair dining room, diners can enjoy Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelin-starred, has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six-hour cooked lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veera swamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day-aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish

ITALIAN Ask Italian Huge menu and outdoor seating at this friendly spot, with fresh pasta and pizzas. It is located close to Paddington Station. ££. Daily L & D. www.ask italian.co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.

Cicchetti All-day dining venue with Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the iconic music venue. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana

This brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the Wagyu beef and hibachi prawn. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Terrace

Engawa

Enjoy opulent decor in this 150-year-old hotel restaurant and bar. It serves salads, burgers and Italian dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel. com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

This traditional Japanese restaurant, which is set in a quiet courtyard, has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

TAI DRY MISO © CLAIRE MENARY

Five restaurants and bars under one roof; the Gallery is a stylish gastro brasserie adorned with art by David Shrigley. Great afternoon tea. ££££. Daily L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK

Time for tea

London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk

To celebrate the upcoming release of Mary Poppins Returns, Kona in Taj 51 Buckingham Gate near Buckingham Palace has a tea dedicated to the nanny. Slurp on mango shakes, cucumber and redcurrant jelly, and try chocolate and orange scones with Devonshire clotted cream and fig jam. Sweets come on a carriage. Try Mary’s Hat – a hat-shaped salted caramel ganache and Spoonful of Sugar – a strawberry and rose cheesecake on a chocolate spoon. It’s supercalifragilisticexpialidocious! 86-90 Park Lane, W1K 7TN. T: 020-7499 6363. www.gofortea.com/grosvenorhouse

GROSVENOR HOUSE, A JW MARRIOTT HOTEL

LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE

This grand hotel has been serving tea since it opened in 1929, and its tea won a ‘highly commended’ gong in the Afternoon Tea Awards 2018. Sit in the Park Room to try brioche buns, caviar, scones and sweets made by executive pastry chef Dale DeSimone, which are accompanied by Champagne or yellow rose tea made by Newby. The Park Room also serves cocktails and Serpentine Gin, made with ingredients from Hyde Park. 86-90 Park Lane, W1K 7TN. T: 020-7499 6363. www.gofortea.com/grosvenorhouse

You know you’re in safe hands here, as the Podium Restaurant & Bar’s chocolate afternoon tea is created by the winners of TV’s Bake Off: The Professionals 2018. Nibble on sandwiches, including a Coronation chicken, curry and pineapple ciabatta, followed by chocolate chip scones with salted caramel spread. Sweets are different too – think pina colada cheesecake, caramelised banana with milk chocolate macarons, and chocolate and mandarin log, accompanied by loose-leaf Twinings tea. 86-90 Park Lane, W1K 7TN. T: 020-7499 6363. www.gofortea.com/grosvenorhouse

BAGLIONI HOTEL – KENSINGTON

NUMBER SIXTEEN

R CHOCOLATE LONDON

Enjoy an Italian tea in Brunello in the five-star Baglioni Hotel opposite Hyde Park. Sit outdoors and enjoy a glass of Prosecco; ricotta and sundried tomato sandwiches; focaccia with bresaola and buffalo mozzarella and scones with Nutella (why don’t more places do this?). If you have a sweet tooth, sink it into tiramisu, Sicilian cannoli tubes filled with ricotta and chocolate chips, lemon tart, baci di dama (bite-size hazelnut biscuits) and sfogliatella Napoletana – a flaky chocolate pastry. 60 Hyde Park Gate, SW7 5BB. T: 020-7368 5700. www.gofortea.com/baglioni

You can eat outside on a Victorian white stucco terrace overlooking a tree-lined garden at Number Sixteen, a boutique hotel near the museums in South Kensington. You can also dine in the hotel’s Drawing Room or Library on cloudy days. Opt for a sweet or savoury tea, or if you’re watching your weight, go for the fruit tea, which comes with seasonal fruit and tropical ones such as cracked pepper papaya and caramelised banana. Enjoy alongside a cup of ginger and lemongrass tea. 16 Sumner Place, SW7 3EG. T: 020-7589 5232. www.gofortea.com/numbersixteen

As the name suggests, Belgravia Boutique in R Chocolate London near Sloane Square celebrates all things cacao, from cacao nib scones to a mini chocolate loaf and 80 per cent Grand Cru mousse with a hazelnut biscuit and sea-salt caramel centre – washed down with a glass of chocolate sparkling wine, of course. You can choose to sit inside or out. No wonder this experience was commended in 2017’s Afternoon Tea Awards. 198 Ebury St, SW1W 8UN. T: 020-8538 9650. www.gofortea.com/rchocolate

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES

TAJ 51 BUCKINGHAM GATE

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DINING Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakagura london.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with authentic Moroccan decor, serving mezze mains such as duck couscous and lamb tagine. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with an informal communal area as well as a dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s iconic sights as you embark on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Dining cruises including two-course lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££££££. Booking needed. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat serving British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in Debenhams department store and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mango Tree This fine-dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers Thai dishes, such as grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. £££. Daily L & D. www.mango tree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 0207823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Thai Pot This popular spot offers a huge range of good value, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and Massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata Choose from a large range of authentic, hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar and restaurant. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. www.wheretraveler.com 69

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DINING Ibérica Traditional dishes and tapas are given a modern twist, plus classics including jamon Ibérico and bocadillos. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.iberica restaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this revered Moorish restaurant, serving dishes such as wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN The Gate

Mildreds This informal institution serves hearty meat-free dishes. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 0207494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tibits Buffet-style dishes at this restaurant, where diners pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Every inch the hero The team that brought The Coach in Clerkenwell and the Three Cranes in the City back to life has worked its magic on The Hero of Maida in Little Venice. Built in 1878 as a hotel, and previously The Truscott Arms pub, it’s now named after a general who defeated Napoleon. With a courtyard garden and a ground-floor pub with keg beers from family-run breweries, its daily changing British-French menu might include grilled rabbit, Welsh rarebit or calves’ brains with black butter. 55 Shirland Rd, W9 2JD. T: 020-3960 9109. www.theheromaidavale.co.uk. Off map. Station: Warwick Avenue

W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING The Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at the Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martin-in-theFields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Sundays), the Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, baguettes, paninis, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. The Café in the Courtyard is open until 9pm until the end of September and 5pm in October before it closes for the season.

El Pirata For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org

THE HERO OF MAIDA IMAGE COURTESY OF THE HERO OF MAIDA; EL PIRATA IMAGE COURTESY OF EL PIRATA; THE CAFE IN THE COURTYARD COURTESY OF ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS

The latest branch of the well-known vegan and vegetarian restaurant. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

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...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings

ges

and sightseeing activities in the area

They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us

where

b.org

An exquisite bar and restaurant in the heart of Soho serving a delicious and varied menu showcasing locally sourced vegetables and fish – along with Sophie’s famous British beef. 42-44 Great Windmill Street, W1B 7NB sophiessteakhouse.com/soho soho@sophiessteakhouse.com 020 7836 8836

BOOK NOW THROUGH YOUR CONCIERGE

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

States of mind

Clockwise from top: American Bar at The Savoy; American Bar at The Stafford; food in The Stafford; American Bar at The Beaumont

Why are there so many venues called the American Bar? Many bars were branded as such, to entice affluent Americans setting sail for England. At The Stafford hotel, which opened in 1912 near Buckingham Palace, its bar was renamed the American Bar. In the 1970s, visitors began donating momentos to the bar – everything from baseball caps to a crocodile skull sit alongside photos of American celebrity guests. The American Bar has felt like Aladdin’s cave ever since, with treasures taking over shelves, walls and the ceiling. It has spent 90 years building a great reputation and has been given a major makeover. The ceiling displays have been grouped into sections, each framed like a piece of art, which run the length of the long bar. These new lines give the sweeping room a sense of drama, while the pared-back bar now has glowing, teal shelves. Explore its corners before heading out to the hidden courtyard. A new Journey through St James’s cocktail menu features The White Mouse, which blends Saffron gin, Champagne, lemon, rosemary syrup and egg whites. Meanwhile, The Bonaparte is dedicated to Prince Louis Napoleon Bonaparte III – a celebrated St James’s society man during the 1840s. It’s made with Remy Martin cognac VSOP with Martini Riserva Rubino, the herbal liqueur Fernet Branca, creme de cacao and cinnamon syrup (www.thestaffordlondon.com). The Savoy’s American Bar has enjoyed a legendary reputation since 1893. The bar exudes glamour, with a live pianist and black -and-white portraits of stars such as Ava Gardner and Elizabeth Taylor adorning the walls. The bartenders have won many awards, including the World’s Best Bar in 2017. Sip on cocktails such as Behind Closed Doors, which is inspired by a photo of the American actress Raquel Welch posing in her Art Deco bedroom in Beverly Hills (www.fairmont.com). Meanwhile, a new American Bar emerged when The Beaumont in Mayfair opened in 2014. Clad in walnut, with Art Deco touches and photographs featuring American celebrities who visited Mayfair in the 1920s, this bunker of a bar delivers classic cocktails, bourbons and American whiskies such as W. L Weller (www.thebeaumont.com). So, in the words of the 14th US president Franklin Pierce after losing a nomination, ‘There’s nothing left... but to get drunk.’

AMERICAN BAR © THE SAVOY; INTERIORS & FOOD PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE STAFFORD HOTEL; COCKTAIL AT THE AMERICAN BAR AT THE BEAUMONT © SCOFFLAW/DAVID LOFTUS

Celebrate our special relationship with the United States at these drinking dens, says Sarah Riches

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)

TRADITIONAL PUBS

BARS & CLUBS

The Blackfriar

The Back Room

This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, its bar has vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hard rock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Cittie of Yorke

Booking Office Bar

The dark nooks and crannies in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho. Note that there is no music. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar, surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Cartizze Bar Cocktail destination known for its Bellinis, with elegant Art Deco decor and bar food. www. cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Camino This is a dedicated Cava venue. Enjoy tapas sharing platters. www.camino.uk.com. The Regent Quarter, 3 Varnishers Yard, N1 9FD (and branches). T: 020-7125 0930. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This cocktail bar is a working gin distillery and offers tastings, classes and tours, in an old part of the City. www.cityoflondondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Dukes Bar Outstanding bar renowned for its Martinis, oozing old-worlde charm in a cosy interior. www.dukes hotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.

Fitz’s This hotel bar is as a classic – think bookshelves, velvet sofas and wood panelling decked with paintings. Great for a date. www.phcompany.com. Principal London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong On level 52 of Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of London’s highest bars, ideal for sunset cocktails. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served here; try the Astor Hip Flask. www.waldorfhilton. co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit stone-arched basement. www.gordonswinebar. com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Waxy O’Connor’s This long-standing Irish bar has four bars over six levels. It has regular live music and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

IMAGE COURTESY OF VIET LOUNGE

Waxy’s Little Sister A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to the huge Waxy O’Connor’s, which has traditional Irish beers and whiskies and also great bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine on a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

East is east The Dorchester’s former head barman has teamed up with Hakkasan’s former chef to open a new bar in Viet Food, near Chinatown. The queue outside hints that there’s more to this little restaurant than meets the eye – and that’s because of Viet Lounge. Take a seat at the softly lit oval-shaped bar, and let mixologist Alex Looi take you on a journey of the senses. He’s a wizard with cocktails, so expect dry ice and flowers in potions such as Black Magic, Call Me Maybe or Liang Jiu. Hungry? Then try the Vietnamese street food. 34-36 Wardour St, W1D 6QT. T: 020-7494-4555. www.vietnamfood.couk. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

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NIGHTLIFE Jack Solomons Club Enjoy live music and a range of cocktails in this secret basement bar, which is hidden in Soho. www.jacksolomons.com. 41 Great Windmill St, Soho, W1D 7NB. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of the iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar, at the station where the Paris Eurostar arrives, has a button beside each seat for ordering a refill. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 0207870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Trader Vic’s Enjoy a mai tai, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Vault

A subterranean speakeasy in the heart of Soho with live music and world renowned DJs

JACKSOLOMONS.COM INFO@JACKSOLOMONS.COM 41 GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W1D 7NB

BOOK NOW THROUGH YOUR CONCIERGE

The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcases, is a basement speakeasy with cosy arches. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues and R ’n’ B music, played by British-based artists. www.606club.co. uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment for a theatrical night out with cabaret shows. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improv comedy spots, with the Comedy Store Players and late-night stand-up slots. www.thecomedystore. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

London Cabaret Club British Pop fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years, with nightly shows plus Sunday Jazz lunch. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Opened in 1980 by the late Peter Stringfellow, this famous gentleman’s club has beautiful Angels dancing nightly on four stages. Free entry when dining at the five-star steak restaurant. www.string fellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. 74 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE Hershesons

A cut above the rest Britain is famous for its hairdressers, from Vidal Sassoon to Sam McKnight. So it’s no surprise to find that there are so many world-renowned hair salons here, and many more opening up that are offering innovative hair experiences. One of the most stylish hair salons in London comes in the form of Hershesons. Famous for having pioneered blow-dry bars, which offer 30-minute treatments in shopping stores including Selfridges and Topshop, it has now opened a new hair salon in Fitzrovia. The team, consisting of brothers Daniel and Luke, has multiple salons but this is the largest; spanning more than 5,000 square metres, it’s a one-stop beauty destination. The group has teamed up with nail and waxing companies such as Dry Bar and Ministry of Waxing, so the extra treatments are not just add-ons, but provided by experts. Salons can be intimidating places so the team has tried to change that; there are retractable mirrors so you don’t have to stare at your face the whole time while getting your haircut, plus there’s a café offering food and drink (29 Berners St, W1T 3LR).

If you tend to arrive at your holiday destination feeling like you’d head straight for your hotel rather than out on the town, then Chop Chop is for you. The hair salon, with branches in Old Street and Westfield London in Shepherd’s Bush, has opened in St Pancras’ Eurostar departures lounge. Twenty is the key number: all treatments cost £20, and take just 20 minutes. It’s a great way to feel pampered before your journey, especially if it’s ending with a business meeting or a rendezvous with someone special. Eurostar’s managing director, Roberto Abbondio, says: ‘The swift style and cut enables our travellers to board the train feeling refreshed before they’ve even started their holiday or their journey back home.’ Bookings and walk-in appointments are available (St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QP). Despite all of the positive things about London, there’s no denying that pollution here is a problem. To combat its affects on hair, Gielly Green, a luxury hair salon in Marylebone and the City, has created a new colour detox treatment. The treatment is adjusted to your

Chop Chop

lifestyle – for example, if you use chlorinated swimming pools regularly, then a formula that tackles a build-up of iron will be recommended. Now for the science: the colour experts mix de-mineralising crystals with warm purified water, which is then turned into a gel. The formula is massaged into your hair, followed by shampoo. The result? Your hair is more likely to retain colour, and the outer structure of the hair has its pH level lowered. This is more than just a hairdresser; the salon also offers beauty treatments, from beard trims to massages (42-44 George St, W1U 7ES).

HERSHESONS COURTESY OF HERSHESONS; CHOP CHOP COURTESY OF CHOP CHOP

Whether you are after a quick haircut or a luxurious experience, Kohinoor Sahota discovers the latest hair salons and treatments in the capital

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a gold agedefying facial and a carat diamond face and body ritual. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square

High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Chuan Spa

Spa Illuminata

Body Relaxation

Step inside this luxury spa that has recently been refurbished. It uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. www.chuanspa.com. 2 Cavendish Place, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 0207499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast Johansens, the menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street. A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Late appointments available

SALONS

Geo F Trumper

One Aldwych

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporates spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous decor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo. A luxury spa inspired by traditional Chinese massage methods. The spa has recently undergone a major refurbishment. Facilities include a 17m-long pool and a gym offering personal trainer sessions. www.mandarinoriental. com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

by qualiﬁed female masseuse.

Ushvani

Mandara Spa

Mandarin Oriental

AVENA MASSAGE

APPLYING SCIENCE TO PERSONAL TRAINING Using the power of genetics to design Personal Training sessions on the most personal level possible!

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute speed styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

BASED ON RICHMOND HILL, COVERING LONDON ZONES 1-4

WWW.SKPERSONAL .TRAINING

Enquire to see a trainer today, call: 07568 565084

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the city use Where London for information. Here they share their top tips for your travels

Carlos Lopes Joint Head Concierge at Mandeville hotel

Gladstone Redwood-Sawyer Concierge at Holiday Inn Kensington Forum

Martin Ballard Head Concierge at Claridge’s

Tell us popular requests. Directions to Selfridges and for London Design Festival.

Tell us popular requests. Directions to fashion shows during London Fashion Week, and, since the royal wedding, how to get to Windsor.

Any strange requests? One guest wanted to buy a white horse.

Any strange requests? A US guest, a make-up artist for Universal Studios, Florida, wanted to know where actor Boris Karloff was cremated (in Surrey). There’s a plaque in his memory at St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden. If visitors had only one day, what would you suggest? Have breakfast at The Wolseley, go shopping on Bond Street and in Selfridges. Take a bus tour, then have dinner and see a West End show.

Any strange requests? Identical female twin guests had seen a documentary on identical twins and wanted a copy of it. After lots of searching, I found the production company and obtained a flash drive of it. Share family-friendly ideas. Take a night tour bus, and visit Petticoat Lane and Spitalfields markets.

What if you only have a day? Start at the Tate Modern, then have lunch at Wilton’s in Mayfair, which opened in 1742. Watch Tina: The Tina Turner Musical at the Aldwych Theatre, then eat at J Sheekey, a seafood restaurant. Share family-friendly ideas. Kids can run wild in Kew Gardens. Highlights include walking 18m above the ground on Treetop Walkway, and listening to real bees in The Hive – a 17m-tall structure.

Where should visitors explore outside of London? See the picture-postcard cottages in the Cotswolds.

Any romantic ideas? Walk along the River Thames, then pop into Gordon’s Wine Bar on Villiers Street. Then have dinner at Clos Maggiore in Covent Garden.

Any hidden gems? Sir John Soane’s Museum, the former home of the architect – it looks the same since his death 180 years ago.

Share a quintessential English experience. Enjoy afternoon tea at The Ritz or Claridge’s.

Share a quintessential English experience. Have an English breakfast at Hawksmoor Guildhall.

Share a quintessential English experience. See a show at Glyndebourne Opera House in Lewes.

Left to right: The Ritz; the Cotswolds; Tina: The Tina Turner Musical; Sir John Soane’s Museum

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345 222 1234.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

THE RITZ COURTESY OF THE RITZ; COTSWOLDS © ISTOCK; TINA: THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL COURTESY OF TINA: THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL; SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM © GARETH GARDNER; CONCIERGE IMAGES COURTESY OF THEIR HOTELS

Oyster cards & Travelcards

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ESSENTIALS

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Brondesbury Park

Willesden Junction

Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park

Paddington

Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush

White City

Shepherd’s Bush Market

Stamford Brook

Ravenscourt Park

West Kensington

High Street Kensington

Green Park

Gloucester Road

Earl’s Court

Goodge Street

Victoria

Hoxton

Charing Cross

Liverpool Street

Bank

Aldgate East

Stepney Green

Whitechapel

Aldgate

Cannon Street Monument

Tower Gateway Rotherhithe

Bermondsey

Canada Water

West Brompton

Parsons Green

Surrey Quays

River Thames

Step-free access from street to platform

Bakerloo

Vauxhall

East Putney

Canning Town

District

Hammersmith & City

Custom House for ExCeL

Blackwall East India

Emirates Royal Docks

Heron Quays

North Greenwich

Elephant & Castle

Jubilee

Metropolitan

Prince Regent Royal Albert

West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

New Cross Gate

Northern

Victoria

Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V 17/E/3249/P

Greenwich New Cross

Brockley

Piccadilly

Beckton Park

London City Airport

Mudchute

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham

Circle

Royal Victoria

Island Gardens

Borough

Southfields

Central

Star Lane

Langdon Park

Canary Wharf

Lambeth North

Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train

East Ham Upton Park

Crossharbour

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Upney Barking

West Ham

Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road

South Quay Waterloo Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway

Stratford

West India Quay

Wapping

River Thames

London Bridge

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate Maryland

Abbey Road

Westferry Poplar

Limehouse

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Embankment

Pudding Mill Lane

All Saints Shadwell

Blackfriars Temple

Westminster

Bow Church

St. Paul’s

Hornchurch

Plaistow

Moorgate Chancery Lane

Ilford Manor Park

Becontree

Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Upminster Bridge

Seven Kings

Wanstead Park

Stratford High Street

Cambridge Heath

Old Street

Covent Garden

St. James’s Park

Homerton London Fields

Haggerston

Farringdon

Leicester Mansion Square House

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

South Kensington

Holborn

Tottenham Court Road

Knightsbridge

Barons Court

Hammersmith

Regent’s Park

Marble Arch

Dalston Junction

Angel Euston Square Russell Square

Queensway

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Bayswater Oxford Circus

Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 020-8150 3170. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 020-7591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Correct at time of going to print

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire the first 30 minutes. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes is a trained certified packer. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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WHERE NOW | THE SINGH TWINS

THE SINGH TWINS ARTISTS Twins Amrit and Rabindra Singh were born in London and grew up in the Wirral, near Liverpool. Their art, which fuses Asian and Western influences, can currently be seen in The Queen’s Gallery

What are your favourite buildings? Hampton Court Palace is definitely in our top 10 favourite London buildings. It embodies the pageantry and attention to decorative detail that we just love about historical architecture. But it’s particularly fascinating to us as a building associated with the Tudors and the Indian princess suffragette, Sophia Duleep Singh – both of whom have inspired our artwork.

Is there any place in London that holds a special memory for you?

Tell us about your work in The Queen’s Gallery, Splendours of the Subcontinent .

Buckingham Palace – for us and our family, as it’s where we received our MBEs from the Queen.

Our artwork Rule Britannia: Legacies of Exchange is a mural-size triptych exploring the history of British trade, rule and cultural relations with India from 1600 to 1947 and its modern consequences. Although commissioned by the Royal Collection Trust as an artistic response to precious objects in Splendours of the Subcontinent, it reflects our ongoing interest in themes around the Empire, conquests, colonialism and its legacies.

How do you like to travel? When travelling around London, you can’t beat the Tube. It generally offers the best way to plan your day and see as much as possible; you are free from the unpredictable London traffic.

Share your favourite gallery. One of the places we have always wanted to visit is the William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow. As a huge admirer of Morris, we would like to discover more about his work as a leading member of the British Arts and Crafts movement.

Where do you like shopping? We have a passion for antiques and antiquarian books, so we always head straight for flea markets and second-hand bookshops. One of our favourite London purchases is a Victorian pamphlet with a rare engraving of the last Sikh ruler of Punjab, which reveals how his conversion to Christianity as a child was regarded by Victorian missionaries as a triumph for British rule in India.

Where is your favourite place to drink? As teetotallers we never head to bars. We are more ‘ice cream-aholics’. So wherever we find ourselves in London, we prioritise scouting out ice-cream places. There is nothing we like doing more than sitting in Trafalgar Square on a sunny day eating ice cream and people watching.

Where is your favourite place to eat out? Hong Kong City on New Cross Road in Peckham. It’s away from the city centre, but they do dim sum and roasted honey pork belly to die for.

What is your favourite green space?

What is your perfect entertainment?

Richmond Park. Its herds of deer, grasslands and ancient woodlands are among our earliest recollections of London. As toddlers, we used to attend the school that backed on to the park, so it’s nostalgic for us whenever we go there.

It would have to be a night at the theatre – especially musicals, which combine our joint love of live music, drama and visual spectacle.

What makes London stand out? Apart from its rich history and diverse cultural offer, which gives London a unique atmosphere, it’s where we were born!

Do you have a favourite hotel in London? We wouldn’t say no to a night at the Hotel Café Royal in Regent Street which, like our art, mixes tradition and modernity in an eclectic way. It has opulent surroundings with a lounge named after one of our personal idols, Oscar Wilde. Splendours of the Subcontinent. To 14 Oct. The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. www.royalcollection.org.uk Clockwise from top left: Richmond Park; The Singh Twins; Buckingham Palace; Piccadilly Circus; exhibition at The Queen’s Gallery. Left: Colossus of Woes

RICHMOND PARK AND TUBE STATION © ISTOCK; BUCKINGHAM PALACE AND TRIPTYCH © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2018; COLOSSUS OF WOES AND PORTRAIT © AMRIT AND RABINDRA SINGH

My Perfect Day

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Really great days out that make a real diﬀerence

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