Where Magazine Milan Oct 2019 by Morris Media Network

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

OCTOBER 2019

150 stores offering discounts from 30% to 70% 30 minutes from Milan

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Food for Thought Discover the best food & shopping in Milan

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Milan October 2019 22

the guide

GIFT GUIDE

24 SHOPPING

Only steps from La Scala, Valli Tessuti Alta Moda reveals a universe of timeless style, dedicated to the world of haute couture fabrics. Eli Fontana

DINING

44 DINING

Caffè Fernanda, the bar at the Pinacoteca di Brera, has recently been revamped. 50 ENTERTAINMENT

INSIDER TIPS

52 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

www.whereitalia.com/milan

6 TOP IN TOWN

www.magzter.com Digital magazine store

Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions.

www.pressreader.com Digital magazines issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines Follow us on Twitter @WhereMilan Like us on facebook.com/WhereMilan Follow us on Instagram @where_milan Watch us on YouTube

18 FASHION AND

DESIGN OUTLETS

8 HOT DATES

Don’t miss some of Northern Italy’s best shopping destinations offering truly advantageous discounts.

This month’s round-up of shows, art exhibitions and music.

22 GIFT GUIDE

13 NEW OPENINGS

Take advantage of your stay in Milan to discover the best seasonal trends.

Keep up-to-date with the latest luxury openings in the city.

14 MILAN FOR FOODIES The city offers one of the country’s most exciting restaurant and dining landscapes, from Michelinstarred restaurants to comfort food, bistros, markets, street food and gourmet Ape cars.

38-43 THE BEST OF… Stroll through the Duomo district and its surroundings, and discover Brera, one of the most picturesque areas in Milan teeming with big-name brand boutiques and artisanal manufacturers.

LAK OF

2 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019 VIA

Although the Duomo is a premier symbol of Milan, not everybody is aware that this Gothic masterpiece houses a cornucopia of artistic and cultural treasures. 59 ESSENTIALS

Information and tips to get around the city and to experience the best that Milan has to offer.

» MAP PAGE 62-63 Isola Chinatown & Porta San Siro Paolo Sarpi Nuova

CityLife

Sempione & Castello

Brera

Centrale Buenos Aires Lambrate Porta

Venezia

Fashion Quad Vercelli & San Babila Belfiore Duomo 5 Giornate Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università degli Studi Porta Romana Navigli Tortona Lodi ZZA

Contents

VIA PORL E

Discover a genuine Tango House, where Argentina’s food and wine culture embraces the sensuality of the dance.

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GO VIA A S IA Dear Visitor, Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. PA D welcome to Italy! V IA I RE L V IA M O BR T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 . MO VIA NZANB A N O2019 is the year Nin T I which Italy will be overflowing info@whereitalia.com D E www.whereitalia.com/milan D ER PIAZZALE with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary V IANI GIUL LARGO E NO VIA PADR E R. NT NIZZA CO DESIO PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF A I V V IAda P of the death of Leonardo Vinci, the man who, ARPO ALLA GI Andrea Jarach P O L IC NZA VI A AB BA PIAZZA FUG V IA PIAZZALE VIA GRECO (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) more than any other,ISTRIA represents Italy throughout AT I Recommended by RANC PIAZZA MANAGING DIRECTOR V IA RA CASERTA cities including Milan, Florence CUF VIA DEL Andrea Jarach IA the world. Several V LA TO Daniele Misrachi VIA RRE R TA ARG A LT O N GE NIS IO VIA SLATAP E SAPublisher (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) DEI V VIA MO NT Aand V IA B O N I N Rome will host a series ofER special events. The full IA V IA RDO I HO Where ® V IA R MANAGING EDITOR program of Italian exhibitions and events honouring VI A I Alessandra Finzi T TI PR AM PO LIN P R IN E PIAZZA (redazione@whereitalia.com) V IA PIAZZApages of Where®. We Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the V MACIACHINI IA VIA FARINA GIO GRE USSO VA GOR V NN V IA R CONTRIBUTORS E R you to discover invite country that gave life to the person considered N IP O VI AIthe N E J ON L E UES M L Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, TAFloriana NO ARC VIA NO V I A over as one of history’s VIA BO LZA VIAGiudici, SEMERI di Maio, Elisabetta the world greatest thinkers. While visiting HE AJoy Lacanlale, R E S Italy LI IUN ITI R AC GH LAPO SI VIA C ISPO VIA V IA Lancini, CO N AI Fabio Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, L V V L V I I E I T A F IAL I G Iwhy V IA C E T you’ll AG RUC A RAN understand only Italy could given birth to Cthis man C IR E have LE LA N V IA whose Chiara Zaccarelli LI ZU V IA IÈ MA CES VI ER DEM VIA CC A RCH CO O ONT O NA GIR E PIAZZA VA V I facets L I O L A mind shaped creative the intellectual, social,E cultural, and political PIAZZA ICONOGRAPHY VI A PO M PE O A FRATELLI SPOTORNO V V VIA BRESSAN PA IA CARBONARI IA VIA Archivio Proedi Media, SIO RR CL G. L E fifteenth century. C Ufrom the of European life an indelible ITU AV STE K E PLeonardo made Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock VIA VI M LV I I I L C NO EZRZO AL O I N VIA E O I contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. V C SA IA S CARTOGRAPHY L LVA V IA U AU R A TO G V NI RE LI I City Map: ©ITOProedi Comunicazione 2019 CI O L E C A Lnow G I enigmatic Vthe P I A to look for O IA AllI Athat traces Vleft by the EOCR LL M E U C VIA ISO CRATE À G V I A remains is for us AN NE LARGO V IA T F.LLI LL VVAIA VIA Metro RAN ALSE I A S CERVIMap and Fast Trains Network Map CA DA RIO US C MIC N A I O A R visiting. If you O HEL Dmitry Goloub © ProediAComunicazione 2019, Leonardo. You’ll findPIAZZALE them in whatever Vpart of Italy you’re S IA G LE ED ANI ISS SEGRINO V IA E AN A Mario Camerini VI IM GEL PIAZZALE I S happen to find I O them, please share your comments, with your G VIA VI LAGOSTAV I A VIA A S IA VI A IA PA D MARKETING & ADVERTISING PIAZZA A V HOLOCAUST PO RE L RE TTO SO T B VIA L CA V DURANTE O MEMORIAL A . MO IA photo, on our social media. By the end of theNAyear, we’ d like SievaATCarolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, B ACIMITERO TA LE NTI NO LE G VIA WILDT Paola Zannoni BR RacheleL IRenna, VIA A ONUMENTALE I to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting! AN(advertising@whereitalia.com) PIE A PIAZZALE RE IANI OR Z LARGO PADR E R.IEGIUL N D VIA A LU NIZZA VI A PA ST LO N RI AN IG DESIO CO N FAthe big event. Milan has been appointed PE NGV StayREtuned IA O IA VI Afor ID RG ADMINISTRATION PA L L A R P OPIAZZALE V STA STAZIONE A OL ANZA P O L IC GGI A P ES VIA ANTONIO PORPORA CENTRALE C CE LI U IA PIAZZA IL A F V LORETO ST I LE DKatia ORIA Greto PIAZZALE DE CA VIA GRECO host cityVIAofGAEthe in 2026! TA N O Winter Olympic Games VIALE STRI (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) ISTRIA I VIO

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VIA GIOVANNI BATTISTA PIRANES

PH © DANIELE MASCOLO

A RETURN TO NATURE In 2019, Milan will celebrate the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci with Leonardo500, an actionpacked program of events that will last for nine months and involve several key locations across the city. By Giulia Minero

▲ Castello Sforzesco’s Sala delle Asse, decorated by Leonardo, has re-opened its doors to the public, offering visitors a unique close-up view of the recently restored ‘Monochrome’ mural and the preparatory drawings that re-surfaced on the walls of the room. A multimedia installation will walk visitors through the entire work, from the walls to the vault, commissioned to celebrate Ludovico il Moro. The tour of the room includes an exhibition titled ‘In the shadow of the Moro. The Sala delle Asse’. Until January 2020.

Castello Sforzesco. Piazza Castello, 1. milanocastello.it www.saladelleassecastello.it - www.yesmilano.it

PH © PAOLO SOAVE

THE ARTISTIC LEGACY OF A GENIUS

SUSPENDED BETWEEN ART AND SCIENCE ▲ The pop-up exhibition Leonardo Parade features 52 works, including frescoes by 16th century Lombard painters and models created in the 1950s, based on Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings. In addition to machines, the exhibition features recently restored models of military and civil architecture in plaster and terracotta, offering visitors a unique opportunity to explore Leonardo’s research and studies in different fields related to all aspects of art, science and engineering. Until 13 October.

Museo della Scienza e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci. Via San Vittore, 21. www.museoscienza.org

For more events: www.yesmilano.it

► The celebratory year marking the 500th death anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci at the Biblioteca Ambrosiana ends with an exhibition dedicated to his artistic legacy. The exhibition showcases a selection of drawings created by Leonardo and the artists of his circle, and were chosen to highlight the key role played by the Renaissance genius. These include the innovative drawing techniques that Leonardo introduced in Milan, plus the improvements and experimental methods he used in established techniques. Until 12 January 2020.

Leonardo and his legacy: the artists and techniques. Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Piazza Pio XI, 2. www.ambrosiana.it

A STROLL WITH LEONARDO Thanks to You are Leo, a real and virtual walking tour organized by Way-We Augment You and Ad Artem, you can see, hear and immerse yourself in the history of Renaissance Milan, as seen through the eyes of Leonardo da Vinci. State-of-the-art immersive technologies allow visitors to retrace Leonardo’s footsteps starting from the Duomo and continuing onwards to Palazzo Reale (Leonardo’s old workshop in the Corte Vecchia), the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, Porta Vercellina and, finally, the complex of Santa Maria delle Grazie and The Last Supper. When wearing their Virtual Reality headsets, participants will see digital replicas of how the areas around them looked at the time of Leonardo. www.youareleo.com

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 1

DUOMO Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. 3 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. 6 CASTELLO SFORZESCO The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. 5 6 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

15 4

CENACOLO VINCIANO One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. 4 PALAZZO REALE Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square.

PIAZZA SCALA The perfect location for the new Gallerie d’Italia Art Museum and the premiere opera house Teatro alla Scala. Rising up in the center of the square is the tall monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci 1 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations.. 2 BRERA DISTRICT This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces.

2020

Week & City 6

NOT TO BE MISSED EVENTS IN MILAN See more on www.yesmilano.it

FEBRUARY Milano Fashion Week Women's (Milano Moda Donna) > 18-24 February

JANUARY Milano Fashion Week Men's (Milano Moda Uomo) > 11-14 January

AMBROSIANA The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. NAVIGLI The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. SAN SIRO STADIUM With a capacity of 80,000 seats, Milan football stadium is the largest stadium in Italy and the fourth in Europe. SANT’AMBROGIO - One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried.

MARCH Milano Museo City Milano Digital Week APRIL Milano Art Week > 13-19 April Milano Design Week > 21-26 April MAY Milano Piano City Milano Food City Milano Arch Week

PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi, the Diamant Tower, Palazzo Lombardia and Palazzo Pirelli designed by Gio Ponti. 7 TRIENNALE DI MILANO Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. CIMITERO MONUMENTALE A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras.

JUNE Milano Photo Week Milano Fashion Week (Milano Moda Uomo) > 20-23 June SEPTEMBER Milano Fashion Week (Milano Moda Donna) > 22-28 September Milano Green Week Milano Movie Week Milano Calcio City Milano Bike City Milano Pet Week OCTOBER Milano Montagna Week Milano Fall Design City NOVEMBER Milano Book City Milano Music Week

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

HOT DATES OCTOBER

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

8 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

MORE ON WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM/ALL-EVENTS

ART

20 13

THE WUNDERKAMMER OF WES AND JUMAN

The aim of the exhibition at the Prada Foundation is to explore SEPTEMBER JANUARY the reasons behind the decision to 2019 2020 create a collection and the ways in which it is housed, presented and experienced. The project features 537 artworks and objects selected by film director Wes Anderson (arranged according to unusual criteria) and illustrator, designer and writer Juman Malouf from the treasures of the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Naturhistorisches Museum in Vienna. Spitzmaus Mummy in a Coffin and other Treasures Wes Anderson | Juman Malouf Fondazione Prada. Largo Isarco 2. www.fondazioneprada.org

Wes Anderson and Juman Malouf at Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. PHOTO Â© CHRISTIAN MENDEZ w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES EXHIBITION

THE WORLD’S PREMIER OPERA AND BALLET HOUSE OFFERS A RICH PROGRAM www.teatroallascala.org

• 1, 4, 7, 10 (ScalAperta 50%) October “L’elisir d’amore”. Music by Gaetano Donizetti. OPERA. Conductor: Michele Gamba. Staging: Grischa Asagaroff. Sets and costumes: Tullio Pericoli. Lights: Hans-Rudolf Kunz. • 2, 5, 11, 14, 17, 19, 22 (ScalAperta 50%) October “Quartett”. Music by Luca Francesconi. OPERA. Conductor: Maxime Pascal. Staging: Alex OliéLa Fura dels Baus. Sets: Lluc Castells. Costumes: Alfons Flores. Lights: Marco Filibeck. • 3, 8 (ScalAperta 50%) October “Giselle” by Adolphe-Charles Adam. BALLET. Conductor: Felix Korobov. Choreography: Jean Coralli - Jules Perrot, revived by Yvette Chauviré. Conductor: David Coleman. Sets and costumes: Aleksandr Benois reworked by Angelo Sala and Cinzia Rosselli. • 6 October Lucerne Festival Orchestra. Evening in the aid of the Italian Red Cross - Milan Committee. Music by Sergej Rachmaninov (Concert No 3 in D min. op. 30 for piano and orchestra). CONCERT. Conductor: Riccardo Chailly. Piano: Alexander Malofeev. • 13 October Filarmonica della Scala Season. Music by Benjamin Britten and Hector Berlioz. CONCERT. Conductor: Daniel Harding. Violin: Isabelle Faust. • 18 PREMIERE, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31 October and 2 November “Giulio Cesare”. Music by Georg Friedrich Händel. OPERA. Conductor: Giovanni Antonini. Staging: Robert Carsen. Sets and costumes: Gideon Davey. Choreography: Rebecca Howell. • 20 October Extraordinary Concert Magdalena Kožená. Music by Chausson, Stravinskij, Ravel, Strauss, Brahms, Janáček, Dvořák. CONCERT. Mezzosoprano: Magdalena Kožená. Piano: Simon Rattle. • 24 PREMIERE, 26, 29 October and 7, 8, 10 November “Onegin” by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky. BALLET. Conductor: Felix Korobov. Choreography supervised by Reid Anderson. Etoile: Roberto Bolle (24, 26, 29 Oct; 7s, 10 Nov). Guest artist: Marianela Nuñez (24, 26, 29 Oct; 7s, 10 Nov.)

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SEPTEMBER 2019

JANUARY 2020

DE CHIRICO’S METAPHYSICS ► A journey amongst the enigmas and mysteries of the paintings of Giorgio De Chirico (Volos, 1888 - Rome, 1978); an extraordinary retrospective that reconstructs the career of a tireless inventor, considered one of the most brilliant and controversial painters of 20th century art, through over one hundred masterpieces. The works displayed – on loan from important private collections and prestigious international museums including the MoMA in New York, the Tate Modern in London, the Centre Pompidou in Paris and the Peggy Guggenheim in Venice – explore de Chirico’s work and his revolutionary discovery of metaphysical art, which influenced numerous surrealist artists from Magritte to Dalí.

De Chirico. Palazzo Reale. Piazza del Duomo, 12 www.palazzorealemilano.it www.dechiricomilano.it

FAI heritage Villa Necchi Campiglio

ENTERTAINMENT

12 13

DISCOVERING HIDDEN BEAUTIES

▲ On Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 October, the public can visit period villas, historic ‘palazzi’ and little-known museums throughout Italy, but also industrial heritage OCTOBER sites, historic archives and private homes open for public viewing on this occasion only, assisted by FAI (The Italian National Trust) volunteers. For more information about the places that can be visited in Milan, visit the FAI website.

FAI Autumn Days. Various locations. www.fondoambiente.it 10 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

SCULPTURE

COLLECTIONS

25 15 OCTOBER 2019

MARCH 2020

A CHALLENGE SCULPTED IN MARBLE

17 8

OCTOBER 2019

MARCH 2020

FROM CÉZANNE TO PICASSO

► For the first time, an important exhibition, featuring more than 150 works in 17 sections, compares the work of Italian artist Antonio Canova (1757-1822) and Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), two illustrious peers and rivals, who were acclaimed as the true fathers of modern sculpture. A unique opportunity to admire the most famous and popular works of these ‘stars’ of Neoclassical and Romanesque sculpture, who influenced a multitude of students, followers and emulators.

The ‘Thannhauser collection’, on loan from the Guggenheim Foundation in New York, is currently on display at Palazzo Reale. The exhibition features fifty masterpieces by renowned masters of impressionism, post-impressionism and early 20th century avantgardes, including Cézanne, Renoir, Degas, Gauguin, Manet, Monet and van Gogh, plus an important body of works by Picasso. The exhibition showcases the extraordinary collection that Heinrich Thannhauser built up until 1965, when it was donated to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation.

Canova and Thorvaldsen. The Birth of modern sculpture Gallerie d’Italia – Piazza Scala. Piazza della Scala, 6 www.gallerieditalia.com

Guggenheim. The Thannhauser collection, from Van Gogh to Picasso Palazzo Reale. Piazza del Duomo www.palazzorealemilano.it

The World of Leonardo da Vinci

EXHIBITION WITH NEW DISCOVERIES: CODICES, MACHINES, PAINTINGS & DRAWINGS

Milan, Piazza della Scala at the entrance of Galleria Open daily, 9:30 am-10:30 pm Info: 02.495.199.81 www.leonardo3.net

Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian & Spanish

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

Milan Events 2019

Milano boasts a calendar of events that will enable visitors to enjoy and experience the city. For information on current and future events visit www.wheremilan.com/all-events and www.yesmilano.it

NOVEMBER

LEONARDO DA VINCI 500TH ANNIVERSARY Milan is celebrating the 500th anniversary of the Renaissance genius’ death with an action-packed calendar whose main events hub is Castello Sforzesco. IN THE SHADOW OF THE MORO. THE SALA DELLE ASSE at Castello Sforzesco | Sala dei Ducali

JazzMI › 1/10 November EICMA › 5-10 November Milan's Motorcycle Show at Fiera Milano (Rho) Bookcity Milano › 14-17 November Milano Autoclassica › 22-24 November at Fiera Milano (Rho)

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

› Until 12 January 2020

LEONARDO DA VINCI PARADE at Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia

› Until 13 October

Artigiano in Fiera › 30 November-8 December

MILANO JEWELRY WEEK Several locations

at Fiera Milano (Rho)

› 12-13 October

DECEMBER

FAI Autumn Days An extraordinary opening of more than 1,000 places throughout Milan and the whole Italy.

Oh Bej! Oh Bej! › 5-8 December in the area surrounding Castello Sforzesco

› 12-13 October

Teatro alla Scala Première › 7 December

ELLIOTT ERWITT. FAMILY at MUDEC PHOTO - Museo delle Culture

AUSTRALIA at PAC Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea

› 16 October-15 March 2020

› 12 December 2019-16 February 2020 © BRESCIA/AMISANO

GUGGENHEIM. THE THANNHAUSER COLLECTION. FROM VAN GOGH TO PICASSO at Palazzo Reale › 17 October 2019-8 March 2020

SMAU › 22-24 October

LEONARDO DA VINCI PARADE LEONARDO HORSE PROJECT Ippodromo di San Siro and other locations › Until 9 November

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO at Palazzo Reale

CANOVA AND THORVALDSEN. THE BIRTH OF MODERN SCULPTURE Gallerie d’Italia › 25 October-2019-15 March 2020

Golosaria › 26-28 October DANIEL STEEGMANN MANGRANÉ. A LEAF-SHAPED ANIMAL DRAWS THE HAND at Pirelli HangarBicocca › Until 19 January 2020

› Until 19 January 2020

SPITZMAUS MUMMY IN A COFFIN AND OTHER TREASURES at Fondazione Prada › Until 13 January 2020

12 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

MEN’S FASHION WEEK Milano Moda Uomo › 11-14 January Annual international event featuring the latest prêt-à-porter collections for men (F/W 2020-2021)

WOMEN’S FASHION WEEK MICAM Milano › 16-19 February

› 4 October-22 December

› 4 October-2019-1 March 2020

JANUARY 2020

FEBRUARY 2020

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2019 at Fondazione Luciana Matalon DE PISIS Museo del Novecento

TEATRO ALLA SCALA PREMIÈRE

DE PISIS

Milano Moda Donna › 18-24 February Annual international event featuring the latest prêt-à-porter collections for women (F/W 2020-2021)

PHOTO COOL CAT © ISAK PRETORIUS - WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

LEONARDO AND HIS LEGACY: THE ARTISTS AND TECHNIQUES at Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana

FILIPPO DE PISIS. NATURA MORTA CON FIORI E FUNGHI, 1926. COLLEZIONE PRIVATA. COURTESY GALLERIA TEGA, MILANO. © GALLERIA TEGA. © FILIPPO DE PISIS BY SIAE 2019

› Until 12 January 2020

[ W H AT ' S N E W I N T H E C I T Y]

New Openings FIRST IN ITALY

Uniqlo The transformation of Milan’s highly central Piazza Cordusio into a luxury shopping hub continues. Uniqlo, the Japanese giant of fast fashion, has made its debut in Italy with a 1,500 sq.m, three-level megastore, hosting its men’s, women’s and children’s collections. The central unit benefits from a double height space obtained thanks to the creation of a glass roof in the central courtyard. The Italian Uniqlo also focuses on the philosophy of Lifewear: a minimalist but elegant design, sophisticated production techniques and affordable prices, that have made it one of the most recognizable fast fashion brands in the world. In addition to classic apparel, as an exclusive for Milan, the Piazza Cordusio store offers an assortment of cashmere sweaters in 50 different colours and one of the largest collection of printed T-shirts of all the Uniqlo stores in Europe, including several styles created in collaboration with museums and local designers. www.uniqlo.com. via Cordusio, 2. M1 Cordusio. Map E4

Dolce&Gabbana At number 2 Via della Spiga, one of Dolce&Gabbana’s historic boutiques was recently refurbished. This restyling is dedicated to both luxury and the Baroque, in keeping with the DNA of the Sicilian brand. Gilded columns, portals, armchairs and mirrors, large scrolls, stems and friezes radiate all the decorative exuberance of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Myriad precious materials, ranging from Red Jasper marble and lacquered elm briar to deep red onyx with white and gold veins, act as a backdrop. The floors echo the black basalt stone of the central staircase, in a blend reflecting Italian elegance and artisan workmanship. Dedicated to the female universe, the three-storey boutique hosts the brand’s collections of womenswear, accessories, jewelry and watches. www.dolcegabbana.it. Via della Spiga, 2. T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Saragiunti The first stand-alone store of Roman handbag designer Sara Giunti has opened in Corso Matteotti, just a short distance from Piazza San Babila. Giunti draws inspiration from the world of technology, while paying close attention to practicality and aesthetics. The store hosts the two lines of the brand’s bags and accessories: SARAGIUNTI, the most elegant, exclusive collection, and 289 by SARAGIUNTI, a more vibrant and versatile collection distinguished by it’s clean-cut, geometric lines: Made in Italy craftsmanship with painstaking attention to the choice of materials. Technological research plays a key role in both lines. All Sara Giunti bags feature LED lights that illuminate the interior. An ideal combination of aesthetics and practicality. www.saragiunti.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 1. T: 02 39198016. M1 San Babila. Map G4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r.com 13

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

MILAN for FOODIES The undisputed capital of fashion and design, Milan has now established its status as the undisputed gastronomic centre of Italy. In addition to boasting more events and happenings linked to food than any other city in Italy, it offers one of the country’s most exciting restaurant and dining landscapes, from Michelin-starred restaurants to Milanese comfort food, bistros, gastronomic markets, street food and gourmet Ape cars. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

escribed in the 1980s as ‘Milano da bere’, which was the term used by local journalists to describe the swinging period, when the city became the land of the happy hour, amidst fashion, unrestrained hedonism, a vibrant nightlife scene, exclusive venues patronized by VIPs and super models, two decades later the city of the ‘Madonnina’, has become the favourite destination of foodies throughout the world. Over the past few years, in the wake of Expo 2015, which placed the Lombard capital at the centre of the debate on food and promoted a sense of renewed gastronomic vitality, Milan’s tourist and food scene has experienced a real boom. In short, there’s something for every taste. In order to offer you a 360-degree panorama of the Milanese dining scene, we have divided this article according to types of cuisine. Whether you’re a fan of ethnic cuisine, pizza, meat, typical regional cuisine or vegan or vegetarian fare, Milan will not disappoint!

Authentic Milanese restaurants Milanese cuisine is not particularly varied and consists of hearty dishes, originally designed for labourers, often forced to work outdoors. However, saffron-infused risotto alla Milanese is delicate and elegant, and also rich and intense. The most classic version, accompanied by ossobuco, is considered a one-dish meal, and can be eaten at Trattoria Masuelli, in viale Umbria, an institution in the city, immersed in an old-world atmosphere, with pure white tablecloths and 1930s chandeliers (www.masuellitrattoria.com). Though faithful to tradition, Ratanà, a restaurant located under the skyscrapers in Porta Nuova, offers more delicate dishes, in an ambience of industrial inspiration (www.ratana.it). Antica Trattoria della Pesa is a must-visit destination for connoisseurs of ‘cotoletta alla milanese’, made from an inch-thick bone-in veal chop, coated with breadcrumbs and fried in butter. Located just a short distance from Corso Como, the restaurant is one of Milan’s most authentic trattorias, where you can indulge in one of the largest, most classic and filling versions (www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com). The ‘cotoletta’ served at L’altra isola is also true to tradition, while the version found at Trattoria del Nuovo Macello is hung for a long time and very thick, meaning that it’s particularly succulent 14 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

Soul Green

Savini

Enrico Bartolini – Mudec

Poporoya

Wicky Priyan

(www.trattoriadelnuovomacello.it). Mondeghili, meatballs eaten as an ‘antipasto’, and veal ‘nervetti’ (veal sinews), served only with fresh onion, are another two traditional Milanese staples which can be sampled at Antica Osteria di Ronchettino (www.ronchettino.it).

PH © SCOCCIMARO

Gourmet restaurants Although the term gourmet is often overrated and may mean everything or nothing, it encompasses that macro category of Italian starred restaurants, which focus either on their stars, or are distinguished by research, creativity and the quality of their ingredients. An entire magazine would not suffice to list them all, so we’ve rounded up a select few, which are an absolute must. Savini, set in the heart of the city’s spectacular Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, has marked the history of Milan. Giuseppe Verdi, Eleonora Duse, Gabriele D’Annunzio and Maria Callas are just some of the illustrious figures who dined here. Today, it offers creative Italian cuisine (http:// savinimilano.it). If you want to treat yourself to a ritzy dinner at a five-star hotel renowned for its timeless charm, book a table (well in advance) at Seta, the two-starred Michelin restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental hotel which offers a vibrantly modern version of classic Italian cuisine (www.mandarinoriental. it). If you’re planning to visit Mudec, the museum of cultures, make sure to combine your visit with a meal at Enrico Bartolini – Mudec, the starred restaurant of the samename chef, who enjoys exploring new worlds and new flavours, while staying true to Italian origins and traditions (www.enricobartolini.net).

Asian and fusion cuisine There’s no other place in Italy that boasts as many Asian restaurants as Milan. While Chinese and Japanese eateries top the list, they’re followed closely by Indian restaurants, and lastly by Thai, Vietnamese and Korean locales, which keep springing up like mushrooms. Fusion restaurants, combining different culinary traditions, are a (popular) separate category. This is a delicate type of cuisine that skillfully mixes ingredients by finding a balance between various combinations, knowing that an exchange of experiences can lead to the enhancement of food. Although Milan is not yet on the same level as major capitals like London or New York, fusion cuisine has become one of its strong suits. JAPANESE CUISINE Although they’re rare, really good Japanese restaurants are often outclassed by numerous bogus Japanese locales offering ‘all you can eat’ menus at very cheap prices, often to the detriment of quality. The city’s best Japanese restaurants include Osaka, in Corso Garibaldi, which welcomes guests in a traditional ambience, and offers the best-known dishes of Japanese cuisine including Sushi and Sashimi, Ramen, Gyoza and Sukiyaki. (www.milanoosaka. com). If you enjoy unusual experiences and

Flower Burger

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WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS The old-world atmosphere of this Milanese restaurant, housed in an early 17th century farmhouse, and decorated in shabby chic style, is well worth a visit to the outskirts of the city.

PH © FUSILLOLAB

Crosta

Antica Osteria di Ronchettino

When in Italy… eat pizza! If you want to eat a top-notch pizza, while sipping a signature cocktail in a glamorous ambience, don’t miss Dry Milano. The pizza is baked in an artisanal wood-fired oven and left to rise for 48 hours. You can choose from among two locations situated just a few blocks apart, between via Solferino and the Repubblica area (www.drymilano. it). Connoisseurs of authentic, thickcrusted Neapolitan pizza, topped with DOP ingredients, including buffalo mozzarella from Campania, should make a beeline for Starita, in corso Sempione (www.pizzeriestarita.it). If you prefer what is now defined as ‘gourmet pizza’, light, easy to digest and topped with high-quality ingredients from Italian Slow Food presidia, opt for one of Berberè’s three branches in the city (www.berberepizza.it). Lastly, the pizza served at Crosta, in the vibrant Porta Venezia district, is an absolute must. Crosta is really a bakery with a pizzeria where you can breakfast on oven-baked goodies and cakes in the morning, and delicious, traditional or contemporary round pizzas, made with premium ingredients, in the evening (https://m.facebook.com/crosta.milano).

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the atmosphere of a Tokyo-style trattoria, don’t miss Poporoya, located just steps from Corso Buenos Aires. This was the first sushi restaurant in Milan and its Chirashi remains unbeatable. However, take note: they don’t take bookings, the dining space is small and chaotic and it’s always crowded (www.poporoyamilano.com). Though it stays mainly true to basic Japanese cuisine, Wicky’s, located just a stone’s throw from the Duomo, veers towards fusion fare. Its chef Wicky Priyan takes diners on a journey to discover delicious kaiseki cuisine, enhanced with Italian and international influences (wicuisine.it). Located in the Corso Sempione area, IYO, the first Italian fusion restaurant to earn a Michelin star, offers a unique gastronomic experience. The cuisine served here is always original, creative and inspired by Japan, while simultaneously focusing on the meeting between East and West (www.iyo.it). CHINESE RESTAURANTS Numerous Chinese restaurants have broken out of the traditional mould to offer diverse, high-quality dishes. The most sophisticated in Milan includes Bon Wei, which serves a unique type of cuisine and regional menus that are impossible to find outside of China (www.bon-wei.it). Ba Asian Mood, in the Corso Vercelli district, celebrates the highest form of Chinese cuisine. Standouts include dim sum and ravioli served in numerous, unexpected versions (www.ba-restaurant.com). Lon Fon, in the neighbourhood of Corso Buenos Aires,

is one of the city’s most historic Chinese restaurants, renowned for its fresh, handmade ravioli (lonfon.it). The concept of fusion cuisine is successfully explored at Huan, an oriental bistro where the flavours and techniques of oriental cuisine are combined with Italian creativity, focusing particularly on the Chinese tradition of dim sum. Located on the Navigli, its chic but laid back atmosphere resembles the atmosphere of an exclusive club (https://huanmilano.com) AND ALL THE OTHERS… If you want to eat Indian food in a modern, welcoming restaurant, run by an internationally renowned chef, then Cittamani is your go-to destination. Restaurateur and internationally acclaimed entrepreneur Ritu Dalmia brings the flavours of the Indian sub-continent to Milan with her cuisine blending ingredients, spices and unexpected flavours (www.cittamani.com). Korean cuisine, a relative newcomer to the culinary scene, is fast gaining popularity in Milan. If you want to sample authentic Korean cuisine, including its spices and piquant flavours, head to Seul, in the Navigli district (seoulristorantecoreano.com). Lastly, how about trying the cuisine of the Philippines? Yum, in via Coni Zugna, not far from the Navigli, takes diners on a journey to discover the country’s little known but vibrant cuisine. Signature dishes include rice bowls, typical Philippine noodles and pork chops (www.facebook.com/ristoranteyum).

TOP Carne

Seta, Mandarin Oriental

Trattoria Masuelli

Vegan and vegetarian In Milan, the number of vegetarian and vegan restaurants has increased exponentially over the past few years. A pioneer of this type of cuisine, and the only Italian starred restaurant dedicated entirely to haute vegetarian cuisine, is Joia, located just a short distance from the Stazione Centrale (www.joia.it). Soul Green, a charming restaurant, located just a stone’s throw from Piazza Repubblica (www.soulgreen.com), offers ‘plant-based’ cuisine, studied and created with natural, organic and high-quality ingredients, plus original dishes, decorated with edible flowers, in an aesthetically pleasing ambience reminiscent of a greenhouse.

Antica Osteria di Ronchettino

Though not explicitly vegetarian, Plato Chic Superfood, serves numerous dishes that do not contain animal proteins. Located in the neighbourhood of Palazzo di Giustizia, it focuses on the concept of healthy food, based on so-called superfoods, without sacrificing taste (https://platomilano.com). If you don’t eat meat but are a fan of hamburgers and searching for an appetizing alternative, head to one of the two branches of Flower Burger. Their delicious, colourful buns filled with vegan burgers, sauces and ‘cheese’, will make your mouth water even if you’re not a vegan (www.flowerburger.it)

For carnivores Meat lovers can choose from a range of options including traditional offerings like Fassona or Chianina beef, Argentine beef, Brazilian Rodizio or street food versions. For the best that Italy has to offer, head to Ribot. Located just steps from the San Siro Stadium, in an early 19th century farmstead, it has served high-quality grilled meat, with a focus on Tuscan gastronomy, for more

Yum

than 40 years (www.ribotmilano.it). Located just a little further on, TOP Carne is a restaurant that has a slightly more international feel. It uses premium-quality cuts from the best breeders in the world, including Black Angus Tomahawk from the USA and Marango, a cross between Black Angus Aberdeen and Maremmana, from a ranch in Maremma Laziale (www.topcarne.com). Alternatively, El Porteño is one of the most historic Argentine restaurants in the city. Here, in an atmosphere reminiscent of Buenos Aires, you can sample barbecued beef, pork and veal, fillet of Entraña, grilled chops or classic chicken en escabeche (www.elporteno.it). Have you ever heard of Viking cuisine? This also exists in Milan. At Valhalla, on the Navigli, the focus is on game, cooked directly on embers, or using the low temperature method. Standouts include deer tartare, marinated strips of horsemeat, beef marrow au gratin, grilled roe deer, boar cooked in beer and quail with Juniper berries. Not for the faint hearted! (www.valhallarestaurant.it).

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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets. Don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations!

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

FoxTown

BERGAMO BRESCIA ?

ALESSANDRIA Mantova PIACENZA Torino Serravalle Outlet Village Outlet Village Designer Outlet

FERRARA

Mondovicino Outlet Village

GENOVA The Mall Sanremo

Fidenza Village

PISA

VENTIMIGLIA

MAR LIGURE

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality, combining the finest expressions of fashion and luxury, entertainment and tourism. • WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. Daily shuttle service from Milan city centre (pick up point from Piazza della Repubblica). • WHAT: guests can find a selection of Italian and international brands at prices reduced by up to 70% off the recommended retail price – seven days a week, all year round. More than 120 boutiques: Missoni, Jil Sander, Le Silla, New Balance, P.A.R.O.S.H., Sergio Rossi, The Bridge, Vivienne Westwood and many more. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village’s selection of

Designer Outlet

VENEZIA

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet

FIRENZE The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

FOXTOWN FACTORYCORSICA STORES An outlet store on the Swiss border, FoxTown uses the popular US-style “Factory Stores” formula: practically all the best designer labels at factory prices (from 30% to 70% less). • WHERE: just 20 km from Lugano and 50 km from Milan. Take the Milano-Lugano motorway and exit at Mendrisio. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 20). • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than 250 top brands (including Armani, Burberry, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Guess, Michael Kors, Montblanc, Nike, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Valentino), 1 casino, SARDEGNA 7 bars and restaurants, an exchange office, a touristic info point and various Tax Free refund points. www.foxtown.com

MAR ADRIATICO

Castel Guelfo BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets

restaurants offers local products based on Italian DOC-classified ingredients of the highest quality, prepared as seasonal dishes or tasty snacks for a relaxing break. www.fidenzavillage.com

? TRIESTE ? Noventa di Piave

VERONA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

MILANO Scalo Milano Outlet & More

TORINO?

Palmanova Outlet Village

? Factory Stores

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the region’s famous Docg wines but also offers a unique shopping experience: Franciacorta Outlet Village - top international brands and discounts of up to 70% year-round. ROMA • WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-BeMi and exit at the A4 junction. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 20). • WHAT: visit the Land of Fashion: over 190 stores of Italian and international brands for up to 30-70% less all year round: Adidas, Baldinini, Beretta, Billionaire, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Cavalli Class, Fratelli Rossetti, Loriblu, Nike, Pinko, Plein Sport, Pal Zileri, Richard Ginori, Twin-Set, Trussardi, Under Armour and many more.

PESCARA

NAPOLI

Serravalle Designer Outlet 18 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

Franciacorta Outlet Village

Fidenza Village • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: discover a land full of taste and visit the famous Franciacorta wineries with our daily shuttle service. www.franciacortaoutlet.it

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan. • WHERE: situated in Locate di Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a Zani Viaggi free shuttle service from the Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta (M2-M3 Centrale FS) and from largo Cairoli (M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza): 11am and 2.30pm (40 min. travel time). www.zaniviaggi.com (see page 20) • WHAT: it hosts 150 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Karl Lagerfeld, Fratelli Rossetti, Baldinini, A. Testoni, a Ferrari store and 15 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris, Poltrona Frau…), as well as new collections and discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on

FoxTown Factory Stores

items purchased here. Open daily: Design and Fashion areas 10am-9pm. Food Court 10am-11pm. scalomilano.it SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle is located just 50 minutes. away from Milan’s city center. Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia. From the railway stations of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can catch a shuttle bus running every day from 9am to 8.20pm. A convenient shuttle bus service runs 7 times a day from 4 locations in Milan: Central Station and Foro Bonaparte (see page 20) and from Piazza Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires. Buy your ticket on line at McArthurglen/Serravalle. • WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands – Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss,

Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei and many more… – for up to 30-70% less all year round. Serravalle combines an easy-to-reach location with a relaxing atmosphere and multiple services, including free Wifi, multilingual staff, a children’s playground, café and restaurants for a perfect shopping experience at unbelievable prices! McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan, in the province of Novara, this is the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s shopping. • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 20). • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70%. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

Vicolungo The Style Outlets w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

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D VO PR R Designer Outlet CA BO ER BE EC OL RI PP SA PORTAVIAVBIUALE PA PIAZZA SC AZ SS ZIO Arrival in Cairoli: 9pm P PIAZZA EL IA OV PIAZZA STOFORI OVIA DU I I P S LIN R O V A U A GRAMSCI VOLTA A A S D S A BIO IC B MACIACHINI N LO I O I FARINA O E H PA I E PANTALEON V IA L E R LARGO IA V M V FO T L VIA C R IS P TI GADDA DO VIA FILE 1pm UT LA PIAZZA FoxTown VI AL E M ON I O I VIA CO N M A U A T R I R I TE V B E GR €20 A XXV APRILE AR AP PA N E V VI I A LS TI V IA V IA VI J E N N PFactory CA RI Stores C A LIL E M LARGO VIA D E L P O A Lin ECairoli: 8.30pm BAST VIA V I Arrival OS LARGO SA GA V IA G IU MODOSSOLA RO PO NT IDA LE IO N I ARC G RI A P M N V M A ESS O D I I I A V O P O LO O R TA IA V MEDICI H N GR R E T V E VI O I N U O S SE IS I D 1.30pm AP VI H C A VIA R V Serravalle A AN A VI E G A A VI C from Centrale) . M V I Z AG D V SP GIANNON I O O U A E T N V (1pm €20 V AR IA VIA ALFIERI O AT T I V OL LF RC E N R I LI I A L E C T I A . V A R E T A ET V Designer Outlet SA LUL I B I AG N S F N E A A L Arrival in Cairoli: 9.45pm I R I L O A R A I V A F A E E A L C A A L VIA PRATI O A S F. M V I AI C E L IGI IA A L N Z PIAZZA S E I V A L C I M A I C E TIRI U N V LA ER EL N T E VIA MAR A E S CPIAZZA CA C ARC VIAV FATE VI L REPUBBLICACCO LIN A O BENESO MZOI D ON T U S AT I N BIANCAMANO A HE VI VA RELLE ER VI 2.30pm AVA DI PORTA LALARGO IA O N VI LI VI VIA CIRILLO E N Scalo NI Milano VIA FOPPA VPIAZZA VI ICA IL AL A PIAZZA VIA PARIVNII PALAZZO NI IA PIAZZA (2pm from Centrale) S S Free A SIA GL A P SPOTORNO E TENAV V IA AL DELLA Outlet &RDIMore IA A CA PA BA VIT 6 FEBBRAIO DCARBONARI I Arrival in Cairoli: 7.30pm NI I O AZ A E VEZ L L V A E L M S TORNO A T A M ST I R ZI O T S A LEL T R G E A A U I R O IO . 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MARCO IO R I V IA VIA F R AT CAVOUR 42 V I A MB ER TE NG S 33HI DE 41 V D F RI LARGO C C IO E O E L T A IA I L L G T V SCU L I PO L V A ’A N N U R * Children 4-11 years old half priceV I/A 0-3 years free U HOLOCAUST PO ON S V P O I I O 8 N AL IBA C IATAMEMORIAL TO LIT ECC IA R L V V IA N 5° ALPINI H I A C A I V IA C EC HI V IA NA IN T T IO R AT O NIC O D EL LA A N G ELO LE AN VI A SPAL V IA FR P O FO R O I A CIMITERO TI LE P ER G O 30 O CA G GR PIAZZA ZA VIA LA V IA A LI O B V VIA DUSE AN VI A JA CO E. VI A A P I L MONUMENTALE CO R PIAZZA A N ISO C SE BE NI D A L VE PO I A VI O R A A PIE RM E NI A RESERVATIONS CASTELLO A N CORIOLANO I FOR INFO AND IN G R PIAZZA RMAR N Z CCINI T TO I U R CO P I O A A P SFORZESCO E I A A R IV NOVEMBRE IR VIA LU PWWW.SHOPPINGTOURS.IT R V N IE R I SELLA V IAPALAZZO VIA C PE VI AD SP IGPRIMO N FA LO V I AA PA ST RELENGG BU M B A LOMBARDIA SO TO PE VI O V IA C O M A VI RGÚ IA SAN I D G. AN À IO VI SA V VIA PIAZZ ET PE V STA STAZIONE A A VIA S R TA T T E O I BOSCO I VIA I S A C P L PE CH C I A V A A PA ES VI VERTICALE SSIN CENTRALE C CE L IA GE V I AR LOR A MONTE D E G R I S E I IA FE CITY CENTER I EA VI IA STAZIONE ART RO A LE D O C A S T IL MVIA OZ 7 MR DAA DELL’ORSO VIAG A VI N DR O DE RR S 0 N TRENORD E N A FABBRICA L A T VI A T A E IA 2 A I ’A L NO V A Largo Cairoli, 18. M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza .D GA PIAZZA V T VA VI S A N I VRIN I RI I IA (Malpensa Express) DEL V N U EL A FONDAZIONE C F GI A A CAIAZZO PIAZZA V SA VIA DEL LAU V IIA BO VIAN I VAPORE RO VILLAANECCHI US G ELLO AF IA V R CATELLA VIA R STAZIONE LUIGI DI IA

I IOL

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world. Take advantage of a stroll through the city to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

SARAGIUNTI

▲ ELI FONTANA Handmade and produced in Italy, this OM sculpture charm in steel, bronze and hematite is the result of research on universal geometric shapes. A perfect example of wearable art. www.gioiellimodulari.com

Like all the models featured in Saragiunti’s collections, this original Galatea Firmamento clutch is designed to recharge the battery of a smartphone… because a smartphone and a wallet are everything you need to bring in a bag! www.saragiunti.it

PETTINAROLI

An original 1616 Bertius map. In addition to specializing in antique cartography, Pettinaroli’s Brera-based boutique is a reference point for fans and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and globes. www.fpettinaroli.it www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com ▲ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE Inspired by the train of a peacock, this glass bottle contains the ‘Imperial Emerald’ fragrance. Notes of citrus, iris poudré and ylang ylang are combined with a floral bouquet to create a sophisticated fragrance. www.themerchantofvenice.com ▲ NIO The new NIO (Needs Ice Only) cocktails come in 14 variations, all created according to the recipes of renowned Italian bartender Patrick Pistolesi. Now also available at the duty free stores of all major Italian airports! www.nio-cocktails.com VIBRAM

Vibram FiveFingers V-Trek is the perfect minimalist footwear for those who enjoy trekking, hiking, and also travelling. Plus points include optimal ground-feel and all the safety of an outersole in a Vibram Megagrip compound. vibram.com 22 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

SHOPPING .C E T R R A V E L E

The secret to a unique style Located only steps from La Scala, two window displays reveal a universe of timeless style, dedicated to the exquisite world of haute couture fabrics. Welcome to Valli Tessuti Alta Moda. By Giulia Minero

n order to create a wardrobe suited to your personal style, it’s important to note that everything begins with the choice of the perfect fabric; the weight, colour and materials that will make you look your best on all occasions. Since 1907, Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has been a reference point for those searching for highquality Italian fabrics for exquisite custommade garments, ranging from prêt-à-porter to couture outfits. Located in the heart of Brera, near the La Scala opera house, the store is spread over several floors and boasts a vast assortment of pure silk, cotton, wool, cashmere and linen fabrics for men, women and brides. A team of expert staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect fabric. The women’s

section showcases a variety of styles ranging from the trendier options featuring young, modern prints, polka dot patterns, animalprints and optical textiles, embellished with satin, lurex and crystals, to more traditional, high-end fabrics by prestigious brands including Valentino, Armani and Ungaro. The men’s section, located on the ground floor of the shop, stocks an array of beautiful fabrics such as Prince of Wales patterns and sophisticated pinstripes from well-known brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana, for those who want to be noticed. Other highlights include a fabulous selection of fabrics for bridal gowns or formal wear, to make your special day unforgettable.

The best selection of made in Italy high fashion fabrics

24 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

>> Via Verdi, 2 T: 02 782124. www.vallitessuti.com M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

The

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS

T: Telephone number M1, M2…: Underground lines MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. SHOPPING

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Saragiunti

NEW OPENING In Corso Matteotti, just a short distance from Piazza San Babila, Sara Giunti’s standalone store offers a range of handbags distinguished by clean-cut geometric shapes,

Made in Italy craftsmanship and painstaking attention to the quality of materials. All Saragiunti bags feature LED lights that illuminate the interior. An ideal combination of aesthetics and practicality. www.saragiunti.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 1. T: 02 39198016. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Aspesi

NEW OPENING The cult brand, created in 1969 by Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila.

Map G4

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 24,000 merchants are located in Milan. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, Value Retail outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in the Entertainment section, because they are considered as meeting places. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

An exclusive fall at Vicolungo The Style Outlets In autumn, shopping at Vicolungo The Style Outlets becomes even more exclusive! The fall/winter collections of more than 300 brands of men’s, women’s and children’s apparel, accessories, homeware and cosmetics, with year-round discounts of from 30% to 70% on the retail price, await you at the outlet’s 150 boutiques. Thanks to the presence of big-name brands including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo and Under Armour, the outlet is also the favourite shopping destination of sports enthusiasts. Located just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport, the centre is easily accessible by car (A4 motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). Vicolungo The Style Outlets is connected to the city centre by a convenient shuttle service which departs daily at 10.30am from Milano Cairoli. Numerous bars and restaurants guarantee a unique gastronomic experience dedicated to the quality and flavours of Italian tradition, now further enhanced by Antonino, il Banco di Cannavacciuolo’s ‘smart gourmet’ point offering a rich selection of gourmet gastronomy in both ‘smart’ and ‘on the go’ versions. Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers customers numerous services including tax free shopping and free Wi.Fi. Lastly, by presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price, at participating shops. For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it/

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25

SHOPPING Luxury shopping

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique

Luigi Verga Orologi

Gobbi 1842 Rocca 1794

Orologeria Luigi Verga

Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 T: 02 76317726

Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521

Gobbi 1842 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536

Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

26 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 T: 02 74867578 Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449

Illustration copyright ÂŠ 2019. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY www.albertaferretti.com Via Montanapoleone, 18. T: 02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, Map G4 ASPESIwww.aspesi.com Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 760841. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com. Via Montenapoleone, 27/a. T: 02 76024495 • Maison Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea, 15. T: 02 77878115. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI www.brunellocucinelli.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/c. T: 02 76015982. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 CHANELwww.chanel.com Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 77886999. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84. T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 DIORwww.dior.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 77123711. Map F4 • Corso Venezia, 15 (Man). T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • via della Spiga, 2 (Accessories). T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4 EMILIO PUCCIwww.emiliopucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com www.zegna.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com Via Montenapoleone, 2 (and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 72318600. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8597991. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 HERMÈSwww.hermes.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76003495. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 HOGANwww.hogan.com Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ISSEY MIYAKE MIYAKEwww.isseymiyake.com Via Bagutta, 12. T: 02 781040. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 JIMMY CHOO CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 45481770. M1 San Babila. Map G4 LORO PIANA PIANAwww.loropiana.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 7772901. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LOUIS VUITTON VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 MICHAEL KORS KORSwww.michaelkors.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Galleria San Carlo, 12. T: 02 76341378. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 8. T: 02 76341381. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map G4

This onesize leather cross body bag plays with letters and colours. An accessory by GIORGIO ARMANI in which elegance meets contemporary design.

GUCCI’s decolleté in black leather features unexpected contrasts. A combination of classic shapes and references to 1970s sportswear highlighted by a rear elastic strap.

MISSONIwww.missoni.it Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta. T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. Map G4 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • c/o la Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 PRADAwww. prada.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65 (Woman). T: 02 876979. • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 (Man). T: 02 87211450. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 (Woman). T: 02 7771771. Via Montenapoleone, 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TOD’Swww.tods.com Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Sun 10.30am-7pm). T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 STEFANO RICCIwww.stefanoricci.com Via Gesù, 3. T: 02 798588. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TRUSSARDIwww.trussardi.it Concept Store: Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688242. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 VALENTINOwww.valentino.com Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 VERSACEwww.versace.com Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89011479. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 27

SHOPPING Fedeli

NEW OPENING The company’s passion for top quality, elegant design and its devotion to individual customer preferences since its early production days during the 1930’s, has consolidated the brand as symbol of pure, high-class fashion. Scarves, cashmere pullovers, knitwear, shirts, swimwear and polos and outerwear all crafted using only the finest, “Made-in-Italy” yarns processed according to time-honoured artisan techniques. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 26. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 02 76023392. M1 San Babila.

Map F4

Manzoni 24 A stylish location in the heart of the city where customers can discover all the elegance of its uber-luxe fur collections. Sophisticated creations for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Its specialized staff is on-hand to suggest the look best suited to each and every customer’s individual requirements. Open 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. www.condorpelli.it. Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTERS 12 The Brian&Barry Building San Babila A 12-floor “vertical dream”, starting from the basement and spiralling upwards to the 9th floor, hosting the ASOLA | Cucina Sartoriale restaurant helmed by chef Matteo Torretta, and the 10th floor featuring a terrace/lounge space. The megastore will host a series of different high-end products and services including clothing, food, cosmetics, design objects, jewellery and watches. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.thebrianebarrybuilding.it. Via Durini, 28. T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CityLife Shopping District The new CityLife Shopping district, the largest urban shopping centre in Italy, is located in a redeveloped urban area that once housed Milan’s historic fairgrounds. Developed in collaboration with archistars like Zaha Hadid, Arata isozaki and Daniel Libeskind, CityLife is one of the largest urban redevelopment projects ever conceived in Europe. In addition to integrating residences, offices, public parks, outdoor spaces and service facilities, the district hosts 100 shops and eateries: fashion, accessories, cosmetics, wellness, home décor and high-tech are the star players of its exclusive commercial offer. Open daily 9am-9pm. www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it. Piazza Tre Torri. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2

Il Centro One of the largest shopping mall in Europe (two rich floors in commercial proposals), Il Centro boasts over 200 shops and boutiques - devoted to fashion, accessories, gifts, homeware, high-tech, leisure, beauty and wellness – 25 restaurants and bars, a diagnostic centre, a sports centre and few play areas for kids, free wi-fi, tax free, dog sitting and grooming. It has launched for the first time in Italy several flagship stores of international brands as Primark, Lego, Bath&Body Works, H&M Home, Mi Store). Designed by the internationally renowned architect Michele de Lucchi, it has been inspired by the ancient Lombard courts. Located just 30 minutes from the centre of Milan, it is easily accessible from the Stazione Centrale via a convenient shuttle service (pick up point Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta – ticket on board 5€ return or www.zaniviaggi.it) or by car sharing DriveNow Carsharing (download the app). Open daily 9am-10pm. www.centroilcentro.it. Via Luraghi, 11 – Arese (MI). Off Map

Rinascente

MUST-SEE A fabulous department store overlooking the Duomo, a real part of Milan’s history. 10 storeys with a refined and contemporary ambience where shoppers can 28 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

‘Black Tux’ by CULTI MILANO is a unisex eau de parfum that blends spicy notes of incense and black pepper with hints of cistus absolute and the sweetness of vanilla and amber.

find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Rinascente Food & Restaurants on the 7th floor features a Food Market brimming with rare delicacies, all origin controlled. It also offers visitors a choice of as many as nine bars and restaurants designed to cover the entire spectrum of taste (open 7 days a week until midnight; dedicated entrances also on via Santa Radegonda, 1 and via San Raffaele, 2. T: 02 8852471). Open seven days a week: from Mon-Thurs 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 10am-9pm. www.rinascente.it.Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Scalo Milano Outlet & More Located approximately 15 minutes from downtown Milan, this is a hub of fashion, food, design and much more. Boasting approximately 130 stores on one level (with the exception of the Food Court which has been designed as an arena below the street level) this outlet village promises a unique shopping experience. It can be quickly reached by car or via the S13 Railway link (‘Locate Triulzi’ station). Free shuttle bus from Milan Central Railway Station and piazza Cairoli. Check the website for opening hours. www.scalomilano.it. Via Milano, 5 (Locate Triulzi). T: 02 90470350. Off Map

FASHION OUTLETS Il Salvagente Established in 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest established outlets: a comprehensive offering of highend fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off. This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of city shopping but with far more palatable price tags! Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 76110328. www.salvagente.com. Map H4

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet The boutique welcomes customers into a warm, elegant atmosphere where they can savour the spirit of the Maison of Le Brassus, the oldest makers of Haute Horlogerie still owned by the founding family. Though this is one of the brand’s smallest venues it nevertheless showcases the four

SHOPPING collections of Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Millenary and Jules Audemars. Here visitors can also admire the special editions created for Audemars Piguet boutiques throughout the world together with several complicated pieces. Upon request, the boutique offers a worldwide delivery service. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 02 76003115. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Bulgari

Chopard

The Swiss brand, famed throughout the world for its refined timepieces and jewellery collections, has opened the doors of its recently refurbished boutique in via della Spiga. The ground floor houses the Chopard Uomo collection, with one space, in particular, dedicated to the LUC, 1000 Miglia and Manifacture collections. In fact, the new Milanese Chopard boutique is the only one in the world to boast a Men’s Room of this kind. The first floor is home to the accessories room, a room dedicated to its Women’s collections

PH © PIERPAOLO FERRARI

Among the most noteworthy names in the world together with Cartier and Tiffany, since the very beginning, Bulgari has been a reference point for luxury jewellery. It also carries watches, fragrances, accessories and small table items. Its most famous collection is the “Bzero1”, originally crafted in gold and subsequently embellished with diamonds and precious stones. Open Mon 11am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 777001. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Cartier In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is also famous as a luxury maker of watches, second only in the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design and technology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellished with details in gold, platinum and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier. it. Via Montenapoleone, 16/A corner of Via Gesù. T: 02 3030421. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

With the new ‘Defi Millenium’ leathergoods line, S.T. DUPONT, a company specializing in personal luxury accessories, re-invents the concept of travel accessories.

and a VIP room featuring the Maison’s most exclusive pieces of high-class jewellery and haute horologerie. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. chopard.com. Via della Spiga, 14. T: 02 76394950. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed by Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displays all the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are admired throughout the world for their jewelry to be realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Daniela De Marchi-DDM

A month dedicated to style and art

Franciacorta Outlet Village offers a wide range of must-have pieces this season including new fashion brands, shoes and accessories, a wide range of traditional eateries, plus a variety of cafés and a wine store. Over 190 shops of top Italian and international brands guarantee a unique shopping experience. With its boutiques dedicated to men and women’s apparel, accessories, footwear, personal care products, children’s collections, toys and home linens, the Village is an ideal destination for a day dedicated to bagging bargains. The Village’s affiliation with the Franciacorta area and its famous wine-producing cellars is one of the key attractions offered by the outlet. Every day at 2pm, you can enjoy a guided tour with wine-tasting sessions using the Shopping Shuttle, a transfer service which departs daily at 11am from Largo Cairoli and arrives at the Village an hour later (round trip leaves at 6.30pm from the center). Art and culture play an important role at the Village. The collective exhibition celebrating the ‘greats’ of Pop and Street art ‘From Warhol to Banksy: a journey through the history of contemporary art’ continues until the first weeks of November. Moreover, in October, the ‘In vacanza con Land of Fashion’ contest, organized in collaboration with Turisanda, will offer customers visiting the Village an opportunity to win gift cards and participate in the final draw for a holiday for two in Dubai. www.franciacortaoutlet.it

30 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

Situated just a stone’s throw from the Duomo, Atelier daniela de marchi - ddm is an evocative location where jewellery collections are designed and handcrafted. Located on the ground floor of an historic building, it serves as a perfect backdrop to the designer’s creations: jewels rendered unique by the patented “Dropage” technique in silver, bronze, brass and semi-precious stones covered in different colored enamels. The Atelier is an iconic destination for the savvy radical chic Milanese élite. Tues–Sat 10am-7pm. www.danielademarchi.it. Via dei Piatti, 9. T: 02 86995040. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori. Map E5

Dior Following a complete makeover by Peter Marino, the women’s boutique of the historic Paris maison in via Montenapoleone 12 hosts clothing, accessory, jewellery and high-class timepiece collections all set within an exclusive, sophisticated ambience, in perfect keeping with the brand’s creations. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dior. com. Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Gobbi 1842 Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference point for refined jewelry just expanded by adding the brand Fred to the wide handcrafted Gobbi collection, and timepieces, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor. You will get the same fine assistance that the Gobbi family has been providing its clients for the last six generations. The upper-floor laboratory provides quick, top quality, watch repair and maintenance service. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gobbi1842.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. Map G4

SHOPPING Luxury shopping Illustration copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

Duomo district

Orologeria Luigi Verga A point of reference for high-end watchmaking collectors and lovers managed by the Verga Family since 1947. The store carries the most prestigious Swiss brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Panerai, JaegerLeCoultre, IWC, Tudor and Hublot to name a few. Its certified upper-floor workshop provides high-qualified watch repair and maintenance services. www.luigiverga.it Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo). T: +39 02 8056521

Orologeria Luigi Verga

O F F I C I A L R E TA I L E R

Jaeger-LeCoultre Ideally located in the heart of Milan’s “Golden Fashion Triangle”, Jaeger-LeCoultre opened its first Italian boutique in keeping with the spirit of invention and creativity which has set this reference brand of Haute Horlogerie apart in the field of watchmaking since 1833. Featuring an elegant, low-key interior, this exclusive space harmoniously blends the best of design and contemporary materials with an Art Déco style, a period in which the Swiss watchmakers created the legendary Reverso. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am7.30pm; Sat 10.30am-8.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76281376. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, Baume&Mercier, Montblanc,

Panerai, Tag Heuer, Dietrich, TCM, Pomellato and Pomellato 67. Luigi Verga Orologi also prides itself on its after-sales service and boasts an on-premises UNI EN ISO 9001: EDITION 2008 certified repair workshop. www.vergaorologi.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Corso Vercelli, 19. T: 02 48198656. M1 ConciliazioneM1 Pagano. Map C4

Orologeria Luigi Verga A point of reference for high-end watchmaking collectors and lovers managed by the Verga Family since 1947. The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar Piguet, Eberhard & Co., Panerai, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor and Hublot. Its certified upper-floor workshop provides high-qualified watch repair and maintenance services. www. luigiverga.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm7pm. Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo). T: 02 8056521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 • Open Tues-Sat 11am7pm. Via V. Capelli, 6 (Piazza Gae Aulenti). The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tudor, Pomellato and Montblanc. T: 02 6595775. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Patek Philippe Boutique by Pisa Orologeria The boutique represents further proof of the perfect harmony between the Pisa Family and the Patek Philippe brand, as well as their common determination to offer clients an environment of excellence for the Geneva masterpieces. Open TuesSat 10am-7pm; Mon 10.30am-7pm. www.patek.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store A watch lover’s paradise for over 70 years. A ground-breaking expansion project involving the addition of 1,000 square metres dedicated to forty brands that have made the history of Haute Horlogerie, from the A of Audemars Piguet to the Z of Zenith. Prestigious timepieces with particular attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Open Mon 10.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www. pisaorologeria.com. Via P. Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique

The Pisa family has always been a forerunner in the world watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. The The ‘KN Book’ collection by KN INDUSTRIE collaboration between the Pisa family comprises three cutting boards made of and the Rolex brand goes back over different types of wood: Persian walnut, oak 70 years. Open Mon-Sat 10amand ash. They can be sold separately or 7pm. www.pisaorologeria.com. Via in sets of three secured by a fabric strap. Montenapoleone, 24. T: 02 76317726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 32 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

SHOPPING outstanding levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy. www.rocca1794.com. • Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7pm. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open daily 6.15am-10pm (Friday 9.30pm). Milano Malpensa Airport - Terminal 1 (Piazza del Lusso). T: 02 74867578. Off Map

Ronchi Opened in 1929, it has become a prestigious reference point for watch lovers the world over, always combining a passion for high-end watchmaking with a love for refined jewellery and ongoing research on fashion-forward and classic trends. Among the most prestigious brands: Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 877449. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

KITCHEN MILANO

Tiffany & Co.

See page 35.

Rocca 1794 Master jewellers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor. Rocca guarantees

This world-renowned jeweller has ten boutiques in Italy: Milan, Rome, Venice, Verona, Florence and Bologna. Located in the heart of Milan, it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with the tradition of its famous New York counterpart founded in 1837. www.tiffany.it. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-8.30pm. Piazza Duomo Flagship Store. T: 02 89094202. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 19/A. T: 02 76022321.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am 8.30pm. Shop in Shopc/o

Excelsior Milano. Galleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76280561.M1 San Babila. Map G4

Vacheron Constantin The flagship store at the multi-brand Pisa Orologeria boutique offers an overview of the extraordinary world of this Swiss manufacturer, an icon of watchmaking excellence for the past 260 years. The ‘Satellite’ area, dedicated entirely to the Geneva-based brand, is located at the entrance of the store. True to its heritage, the space captivates visitors with its meticulous choice of materials, minimalist elegance and welcoming atmosphere. Open Mon 10.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/ 2.30pm-7pm. www.vacheron-constantin.com – www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Van Cleef & Arpels Respect for the past, a taste for beauty, a passion for travel and a search for harmony are the underlying values that the Maison has continued to uphold since its creation in 1906. Values which though never losing sight of contemporary styles nevertheless continue to encourage an ongoing dialogue between those who create the jewellery and those who wear them. A timeless recognizable style defined by elegance, femininity and creative audacity are the hallmark features found in all the collections of this historic brand. For a century Van Cleef & Arpels have been fusing inspiration and technical prowess into creations embodying expertise, ingenuity and talent.

FIDENZA VILLAGE & MILAN CITY. A N EXCLUSIVE ITALIAN EXPERIENCE. Enjoy an unforgettable shopping experience in more than 120 boutiques, with up to 70% off the recommended retail price, all year round. DEPARTURE PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA 9.45 at the junction am

RETURN 5.30 pm

FIDENZA VILLAGE

SHOPPING TOUR TO FIDENZA VILLAGE Available every day Adult € 20 pp - Child 5-12 years old € 10 pp

with Via Turati Transport service offered by Frigerio Viaggi Trasporti.

Planning your stay in Milan? Discover OpenCITY: 1 Card and 5 thematic Mini-cards available for any budget, starting from 12 €, including museums and attractions, public transportation, discounts. Ask for more information to the Concierge. www.opencitymilan.com 34 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

SHOPPING Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.vancleef-arpels.com. Via P. Verri, 10. T: 02 7767951. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

LEATHER & LUGGAGE Giosa Milano

UNIQUE An atelier combined with a showroom in the Brera district, where the particular way to work the crocodile leather is, before being a business, a family history for about 50 years. The atelier merges the traditional working techniques of how to handle the most precious leathers with the modern and innovative way to transform them. Today Giosa Milano has become a reality bringing the finest craftsmanship and producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Sun by appointment. www.giosamilano.com. Vicolo Ciovasso, 1. T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map F4

Il Bisonte

with age. Located in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, in addition to exquisite wood, the brand’s trademark cowhide leather has been used to upholster the furniture and as a decorative element of the store’s interior décor. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ilbisonte.com. Via Santo Spirito, 14. T:02 76003014. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

PASSION SHOPPING Christofle Located in the heart of Milan, venerable Parisian tableware and home decor house Christofle has given its emblematic boutique a sumptuous makeover. All of its tableware, home décor, accessories and jewelry collections, customizable on request, are sold both at its boutique and at la Rinascente (6th floor). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.christofle. com - pavillon.milano@christofle.com.Boutique Corso Venezia, 6. T: 02 781948. M1 San Babila. Map G4

At its boutique in via Santo Spirito, Florentine leather goods house Il Bisonte offers customers its full range of luxury items. Its beautifully handcraft bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomize the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving

Culti Milano Following the launch of its historic showroom in corso Venezia 53, via Fiori Chiari 6 is the address of Culti Milano’s new Brera-based boutique dedicated to sought-after home fragrances. The store stocks the entire range of the House’s signature fragrances, characterized by its unmistakable style which focuses on

quality, a careful selection of only the finest ingredients and painstaking attention to detail, to personalize both the home and the workplace with an aura of sophisticated elegance. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.culti.com. Via Fiori Chiari, 6. T: 02 36553875. M2 Lanza. Map F3

KitcheN Milano A reference point on the Milanese scene for cooking enthusiasts. Within its welcoming and modern space, KitcheN offers a wide range of top-quality utensils and gadgets in sought-after designs, as well as a selection of gourmet foods and cookery books. This concept stems from a partnership with knIndustrie which curated its restyling and artistic direction, repositioning the brand and introducing new products and new ‘stories’ dedicated to contemporary and professional cuisine, with a focus on versatility, experience and accessibility. This multifunctional space also hosts a rich events calendar including cookery courses, seminars, cultural meetings, exhibitions and tastings. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.kitchenmilano.it. Via E. De Amicis, 45. T: 02 58102849. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.Map E5

R-Store

APPLE PREMIUM RESELLER This R-Store, one of the 16 sales points in Italy, offers Apple products and accessories, qualified pre-and post-sales assistance, as well as courses and

WELCOME TO THE BEST SELECTION OF MADE IN ITALY HIGH FASHION FABRICS Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124 / 02 76001986 - vallitessuti.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35

SHOPPING The Merchant of Venice

Venini

A historic brand epitomizing the Venetian art of perfume-making, has an elegant, new store in Brera. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice carries a luxury line comprising a wide range of exclusive fragrances for men and women, bath and body collections, home fragrances and accessories in elegant flacons based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano glass blowers. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 80581268. M2 Lanza.

The art of glass-making. The new collections and the historic pieces of this brand founded in 1921 are showcased against a neutral, minimalist background. Via Montenapoleone, 10. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.venini.com. T: 02 76000539. M1 San Babila. Map F4

Map F4

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda

VIBRAM See this page.

services, making it a go-to reference point for customers requiring any type of trouble-shooting advice. The store also provides dedicated consultancy to companies, schools, universities and the world of public administration. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7pm. www.rstore.it. Viale Piave, 38. T: 02 29510038. M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has opened its boutique in the famed Quadrilatero della Moda, just steps away from Teatro alla Scala. A Milanese reference point that, since 1907, has offered its clientele the best Made-in-Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-a-porter and ceremony attire both for men and women but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; TuesSat 9.30am-7pm. Via G. Verdi, 2. vallitessuti. com. T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

SHOES Alfonso Garlando Tailor-made, Italian-style shoes are the protagonists at this charming boutique in the Brera district, which offers made-to-measure shoes for ladies and brides available in hundreds of different styles and a wide array of materials. Open Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.it. Via Madonnina, 1. T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Fratelli Rossetti Renowned throughout the world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully handcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxury and tradition, with an added touch of originality. Beautiful and stylish to boot. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.fratellirossetti.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Sergio Rossi Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fatale in every woman. Beautifully crafted, comfortable, eye-catching footwear designed for women in search of an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoes is checked for quality at least 120 times. Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi. com. Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76006140. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Vibram Milan’s first and unique Vibram® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and professionals who are looking for products of high quality and performance. The store displays the entire range of Vibram FiveFingers ® offering customers the possibility of feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together with Vibram Furoshiki and other finished good products, plus a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all characterized by a Vibram® sole. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/ 3pm-7.30pm. vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

STATIONERY Pettinaroli Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, since its inseption Pettinaroli has been considered a reference point for funs and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gifts items. Its boutique in the heart of Brera boasts a wide selection of maps and globes, an assortment of exclusive Italian handcrafted leather, writing paper, business cards and printed documents: the ideal location for a souvenir or collector's item. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 864646421875. M2 Lanza. Map F4 36 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

Tiffany & Co.

SHOPPING

DUOMO DISTRICT & MORE Piazza Duomo is also home to the largest Tiffany & Co. boutique in Europe.

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda

Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro

alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of present-day Milan. AROUND THE DUOMO For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! Just a little further on, the window displays of Rocca 1794 will seduce you with their collections of several of the world’s most desirable jewellery and watch brands.

TOWARDS TEATRO ALLA SCALA: THE GALLERIA Known as the ‘living room’ of Milan, the Galleria links Piazza del Duomo to piazza della Scala. For the past 150 years, it has been a meeting place for the Milanese and their guests. In the Galleria, haute couture takes centre stage. In addition to Prada and Versace, other standouts include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, Borsalino, Luisa Spagnoli, Bric’s, Tod’s, Stefanel and Massimo Dutti alternated with historic workshops (whose signs serve as an indication of their storied past). A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts is Valli Tessuti Alta Moda, with the perfect fabrics to make elegant outfits. You say ‘aperitivo’ and you immediately think of Camparino in Galleria, a landmark location and a reference point where Milan’s elite meet to partake in one of Italy’s oldest social traditions! Carlo Cracco’s new locale is spread over four floors and focuses on opulent aesthetic and culinary offerings, from breakfast to post-theatre dining. For those in search of a taste of tradition, located just nearby is Luini (renowned for its one-of-a-kind “panzerotti”). Conversely, those favouring a more sought-after gourmet experience can either opt to eat at Ristorante Galleria where you enjoy a taste of Milanese food and hospitality (for generations, the Galli family has defined Milanese hospitality in the Galleria!) or at Ristorante Savini, one of Milan’s most iconic landmark restaurants, or at the Marchesi alla Scala restaurant. Don’t miss the Lavazza flagship store, a space where coffee lovers can sample an authentic espresso and innovative coffee-based recipes.

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts. Located in via Verdi, just steps from Teatro alla Scala, here expert staff will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear. These fabrics are inspired by the patterns of the most up-todate haute couture collections. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone

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[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

Shopping at its best

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

For your shopping in the shadow of the Duomo head to the Rinascente flagship store

10 storeys featuring a refined, contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Constant new arrivals from the most prestigious brands and emerging talents allow shoppers to find both timeless classics and the latest fashion trends. The basement floor houses the Design Supermarket, a floor devoted to design in its multiple expressions featuring a slew of articles carrying the signature of the greats of national and international designer: Alessi, Pantone and loads of others besides. The ground floor is a true emporium of beauty and prominent fragrance brands, featuring not only corners and a staff of expert makeup artists but also the jewellery area hosting precious collections of high jewelry.

Conversely, the balcony houses the luxury accessories of famed and fabled Italian and international brands. The store’s range of menswear fashion is spread over floors 1 and 2, featuring luxury, classical, smart and casual collections, plus the Men Shoe Heaven boasting sneakers and formal shoes by 23 different brands, while the 3rd and 4th floors are given over to women’s fashions (including the must-visit footwear area). The 5th floor is dedicated to lingerie and children’s fashion. Continuing upwards, you’ll reach the 6th floor devoted to homeware collections while the 7th floor houses the exclusive Food Hall hosting various themed restaurants (Basara, Obicà Mozzarella Bar, Il Bar, JUICEx, Maio Restaurant, Be Steak, De Santis, Champagnerie Moët & Chandon) and the

Food Market, where you can purchase any number of international delicacies. Discover the Wine Shop area which has been recently expanded: at this unique space dedicated to the finest wines on the Italian and international scene, you can taste and purchase the products of world-class producers. Visitors love this floor as it is the ideal place to find luxury food gifts and, what’s more, a fab panoramic terrace featuring a spectacular view over the spires of the Duomo. Visit also Annex Rinascente, the space devoted to streetwear adjacent to the main building and featuring more than 200 brands, which now features a totally re-designed men’s area. >> Rinascente - Piazza Duomo www.rinascente.it. Open 7 days a week. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 39

SHOPPING

BRERA DISTRICT As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric à brac should definitely make time to visit the Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held on the third Sunday of each month. The array of boutiques continues with the elegant artisan footwear sold by Iliprandi or the tailor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso Garlando. Other points of interest include the elegant womenswear boutique Rosso35, Misani's artisanal jewels for him and for her, the original accessories by Angela Caputi Giuggiù and the unique leather accessories by the new Giosa Milano boutique in via Ciovasso, 6.

Culti Milano Angela Caputi Giuggiù Alfonso Garlando

Giosa Milano The Merchant of Venice Pettinaroli

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. As you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting small artisans’ workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and paints. EDITOR'S TIP Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting collection at the Pinacoteca, the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, the Museo Astronomico, the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino Botanico.

ART, SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting point where, amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, you'll have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference point for antique lovers, Brera boasts numerous antique shops and art galleries. Among these, Pettinaroli, just relocated from its historic headquarters near the Duomo to no. 4 via Brera, offers a wide selection of maps and antique prints.

THE PERFUME DISTRICT At no. 4 via Brera, we find the The Merchant of Venice boutique, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfumemaking offering a luxury line encompassing a wide range of exclusive perfumes for men and women contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (www.themerchantofvenice.com). Our next port of call is via Fiori Chiari, where we find the beautiful window displays of Culti Milano. The brand also has a boutique at no. 53 corso Venezia (www.culti.com). Other must-visits while in the area include Olfattorio Bar-à-Parfums (via Brera 5, www.olfattorio.it), Diptyque (via Brera 23, www.diptyqueparis.eu), Profumo (via Brera 6, www.profumomilano.com), the Amouage boutique (via Fiori Chiari 7, www.amouage.com), Dr.Vranjes (via Fiori Chiari 24, http://drvranjes.it), Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (via Madonnina, www. smnovella.com), Creed (via Madonnina 17, creed.cale.it), 9Nine (via Ponte Vetero 22, www.beautysanspa.com) and Fragonard (via Solferino 2, www.fragonard.com).

Surrounded by art galleries and goldsmiths’ workshops, at their atelier in via Ciovasso, Giorgio Santamaria and his son Gioele continue to write the history of high-end Milanese craftsmanship working with exclusive crocodile skins. Giosa offers customers a chance to become the designers of their creations, allowing them to choose from a wide range of precious crocodile skins, available in a remarkable array of colours and finishes. Customers can create their own unique, custom-made accessory inside the atelier’s historic vault under the guidance of expert artisans. www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza

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PH GIOSA MILANO © MARCO DEL TORCHIO

GIOSA MILANO

THE BEST OF BRERA DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza

ALFONSO GARLANDO Since 1971, Alfonso Garlando has been creating his footwear in the name of elegance and the high quality of artisanal, strictly “Made-in-Italy” products. Today, this tradition continues in the heart of Brera with unique, handcrafted items: hundreds of styles produced using premium quality fabrics and skins, for ceremonies, evenings and elegant events but also for comfortable, everyday wear. Customers can also find a collection of ton sur ton bags, belts and clutches, that can be customized according to individual tastes and requirements. www.alfonsogarlando.it Via Madonnina, 1 - T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza

PETTINAROLI Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, Pettinaroli has, since its inception, been considered a reference point for fans and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gift items. On entering this unmistakably Milanese shop in via Brera, customers can breathe in the scent of the past, immersed in a timeless, old-world atmosphere. They can browse amongst shelves of writing paper and exquisite envelopes, historic maps and antique prints, and find numerous items associated with the sophisticated art of writing, including several of the world’s most prestigious fountain pens, leather diaries and planners, goose quill and wood pens. This unique shop also has an unmissable section dedicated to gift items: antique globes, 19th century vintage wood printing press letters, and customizable ex-libris. The jewel in the crown of this space is the magnificent collection of prints lining the wall at the back of the shop, visited daily by aficionados from all over the world. Today the business is run by Francesco Pettinaroli (right). Named after his grandfather, who founded the establishment, Francesco specializes in antique prints, a passion that has made him one of the world’s leading experts. www.fpettinaroli.it - www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com www.facebook.com/PettinaroliMilano Via Brera, 4. T: 02 86464642-1875. M3 Montenapoleone

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DINING

The new face of Caffè Fernanda The bar at the Pinacoteca di Brera has been revamped to host a restaurant-bistro featuring the Sicilian cuisine of restaurateur and chef Filippo La Mantia. By Giulia Minero

he fact that the Pinacoteca di Brera has always focused particular attention on the relationship between art and taste is not surprising since Caffè Fernanda, the museum’s café, located in the last room of the Pinacoteca, is an integral part of the museum tour. Now, just a few months after opening, the gourmet bar located in the heart of the Pinacoteca has been revamped to host a restaurant-bistro, as a result of a partnership with Palermo-born chef and restaurateur Filippo La Mantia. This new dining option includes a selection of vegan, gluten-free and vegetarian dishes, where the colours and scents of Sicily, including citrus fruits, basil and mint, combine with Spanish, Norman and Arab influences, with a special focus on cous-cous. To meet the requirements of the Pinacoteca’s General Director James Bradburne, whose mission is

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to make Caffè Fernanda “a place where you can sample the flavour of the Pinacoteca”, the culinary offerings include dishes created ad hoc to pay tribute to the masterpieces hosted in the space, including Piero della Francesca’s Brera Altarpiece, transformed into a culinary work of art, featuring a poached egg supported by a shell-shaped puff pastry wafer on a bed of Swiss chard topped with a lemongrass sauce. In addition to traditional Sicilian desserts, there is also a selection of sandwiches dedicated to people who have played a key role in the history of the Pinacoteca, including Donato Bramante, Ettore Modigliani, Bernardino Luini and Fernanda Wittgens. >> Caffè Fernanda c/o Pinacoteca di Brera Via Brera, 28. M2 Lanza www.caffefernanda.com – www.pinacotecabrera.org

From the left: William Fabbro, Angela Adamo, Filippo La Mantia and Massimiliano Fabbro

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

For this season, ARMANI/DOLCI by Guido Gobino suggests his most classic box of cube-shaped chocolates tied with a scarf inspired by the F/W 2019/20 collections.

Mieru Mieru

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Cantina Piemontese A top-level “trattoria” with a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful corner of Milan just a short distance from the Duomo. Originally a winery with a prestigious tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. www.cantina-piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5

Don Lisander For more than sixty years, a fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service. The menu features traditional Lombardy and regional Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Galleria Situated halfway between the Duomo and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. www.ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Savini Spread out over three floors in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, for the past 150 years Savini has been one of Milan’s most iconic, landmark restaurants. A favourite haunt of several of the world’s most legendary figures, it continues to be the place where the local elite gather after a night at the opera. Credit for its enduring reputation goes to its blend of tradition and innovation, exemplified by the contemporary cuisine of Executive Chef Giovanni Bon. Its wine cellar, boasting more than 800 labels from all over the world, deserves a special mention. Open Mon-Fri 12-noon to 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm and Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

All the warmth of a typical Puglia welcome awaits you in Milan’s Navigli district. A sort of ‘protected culinary area’ where, thanks to the hospitality offered by it owners (restaurateurs for generations), diners will feel completely at home. It offers a menu infused with the ‘aromas of the sea and the land’, sourcing what they have to offer on a daily basis. An ideal location for those who love fresh flavours in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Those wishing to enjoy the ‘scent of the sea’ and a taste of Puglia before dinner can do so while sampling a glass of good wine accompanied by a tantalizing assortment of seafood snacks. Special gluten free menu. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-midnight. Reservation for lunch. €€. www.mierumieru.it. Via Magolfa, 14. T: 02 89406320. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7

Torre The panoramic restaurant, designed to accommodate up to 84 diners, is arranged on three levels of the Torre, inside the Fondazione Prada complex. The decorative elements and artworks covering the walls are by several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists, while the top floor features original furnishings from the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York, designed by Philip Johnson in 1958. The outdoor terrace echoes the porphyry flooring and metal grids characterizing the Foundation’s exteriors, which extend over a surface area of 125 square metres. The seventh floor also hosts a Chef’s table, a private area with a view of the kitchens and a private terrace. The restaurant’s gastronomic concept is based on an Italian menu and traditional regional cuisine, accompanied by a prestigious selection of wines. €€€. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via G. Lorenzini, 14. T: 02 23323910. M3 Lodi. Map G7

Valentino Vintage Restaurant Situated inside a historic 17th century building in the heart of Milan, just steps from the Quadrilatero della Moda, this restaurant offers traditional Italian cuisine in a warm, elegant setting. Its atmosphere, inspired by movie icon Rodolfo Valentino, is infused with an old-world charm reminiscent of the Belle Epoque. Its cuisine is deeply rooted in Italy’s culinary traditions and melds typical Mediterranean dishes, created thanks to the use of only the highest-quality ingredients, with innovative flavours, resulting from creative experimentation. The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine list. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm; Sat 7pm-11pm. Closed on Sun. €€. www.valentinovintage.it. Corso Monforte, 16. T: 02 76394369. M1 San Babila. Map G4

INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE Denzel One of the few truly Kosher restaurants in Milan, serving an international fish and meat menu of delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, America, Asia and South America are combined

Bakeries in Milan Don’t call them bread shops! Milan’s bakeries have rediscovered the use of whole meal flours, ancient grains and traditional bread making techniques, usually under the guidance of a ‘master baker’. By Chiara Zaccarelli CROSTA A bakery with a pizzeria in the Porta Venezia district, in a contemporary, elegant ambience. You can breakfast on freshlybaked cakes and pastries in the morning, purchase bread and sample pizza on the peel at lunch and throughout the day, while at dinner, there’s pan pizza, in traditional or contemporary version. Via Bellotti, 13 (corner of via Kramer). T: 02 38248570. Map H4 MARIA MARINONI This historic business, characterized by its unique blend of tradition and innovation, has provided the Milanese with bread since 1903. At a time when this concept had not been heard of, Marinoni was the first bakery to introduce a bakery-café combo. Located in a strategic position, inside Cadorna Station, it turns out a variety of bread, foccacia, pizzas, cakes, pastries and other delicacies throughout the day. In addition to a bakery and a café. Piazza Cadorna, 10. www.facebook.com/MariaMarinoni. T:02860574 . MapE4 LE POLVERI A tiny, 50-square meter bakery owned by former chemist turned baker Aurora Zancanaro. At this light-filled ‘bottega’, you can purchase all types of bread (with sesame seeds, walnuts, almonds, chocolate and pumpkin), focacce, oven-baked goods and pizza. All its specialties are based on time-honoured recipes. www.lepolveri.com. via Ausonio, 7. Map D5 PANIFICIO DAVIDE LONGONI At his two Milanese stores you can purchase all types of bread including naturally leavened loaves, sourdoughs, bread made from stone-milled organic flours and ancient grains. In addition to purchasing bread, you can also get a cappuccino, stop by for lunch or an aperitivo in the evening. www.davidelongonipane.com Via Tiraboschi, 19. Map H6 Mercato del Suffragio, Piazza Santa Maria del Suffragio. Map H5 More on www.wheremilan.com/guide w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

DINING TASTING EXPERIENCE Armani/Dolci Via Manzoni 31 is possibly the most glamorous address for Milanese patisserie: Armani/Dolci is a location dedicated by world-renowned designer Giorgio Armani to the world of chocolate and not only. Here you can find elegant pralines, chocolate bars, assorted dragées or fruit preserves, delightful gifts that are perfect for any occasion, also thanks to the store’s elegant, unmistakable packaging. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.armanidolci. com. Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 62312686. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Cova Pasticceria

VALENTINO VINTAGE See page 45.

in delectable, tasty dishes, in a welcoming ambience. It uses only the finest ingredients and rigorously follows the rules of Kashrut. Closed on Friday evening and on Sat. €€. www.denzel.it. Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. Map C4

Founded in 1817, by none other than one of Napoleon’s soldiers, this is one of the Milan’s oldest pasticceria, an iconic place where tradition meets elegance and style. On the occasion of the 200th anniversary, the venue has recently re-opened following a careful renovation preserving the original Cova signature look. Established as a pasticceria, it also offers a morning espresso, a Milanesestyle risotto, an afternoon tea with artisanal pasticcini and pralines or an evening aperitivo. The famous handmade Panettone, signature product of Cova and a jealousy-guarded recipe, is available all year long. Open Mon-Sat

7.45am-8.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.covamilano.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Lavazza Italian coffee expert Lavazza has opened its first flagship store in Milan. A go-to destination where coffee lovers can experience the very best that the world of Lavazza coffee has to offer throughout the day. This beautifully designed location offers four different experiential options: the “Caffetteria” where visitors can savor an authentic espresso, a “Slow Coffee” area to taste different types of coffee extraction systems, a “Fresh Roasted” area where precious single origins are roasted and blended on site, and the “Coffee Design” area where innovative food design meets the world of coffee in new and surprising flavour combinations, created with top international chefs. Open Mon-Thurs 8am-7.30pm; Fri 8am-8pm; Sat-Sun 9am-8pm. www.lavazza.it/flagshipstore. Piazza San Fedele, 2. T: 342 8411682. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Marchesi 1824 Pralines and homemade pastries, biscuits and panettone, “veneziana”, chocolates, sweets and over thirty different types of cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. It still retains its original early nineteenth century atmosphere and has a counter at which you can drink a cup of coffee accompanied by tiny, mouth watering treats. Pastries baked fresh on a daily basis and for the holiday season. A truly tantalizing experience! Open Mon 7.30am-7.30pm; TuesSat 7.30am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-7.30pm. www. pasticceriamarchesi.com. Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/a. T: 02 876730. M1 Cairoli. Map E4 • Open daily 7.30am-9pm. Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76008238. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open daily 7.30am-9pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 94181710. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Noberasco 1908 King of dry fruit Noberasco 1908 instantly sealed its success as a reference point for discerning palates and lovers of natural tastes: its products are sourced from all over the world and include a flotilla of the rarest, most delicious culinary delights. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon 11am-7.30pm. www.noberasco.it. Via Spadari. T: 02 99201022. M1 Cordusio, M1-M3 Duomo.

Piccolo Peck, an unmissable bistro Located on the ground floor of via Spadari, in the heart of the historic delicatessen, Piccolo Peck is a gastronomic café that reflects the most distinctive features of the Peck universe. An informal space where you can taste the best of gourmet gastronomy in a relaxed atmosphere. Here you can sample canapés that re-interpret the great classics (including Peck’s famous insalata russa, vitello tonnato, prawn cocktail and not-to-be-missed paté), but also select charcuterie and cheeses, vegetables pickled in a rare quality of oil, cold roasts and seafood. The dishes featured on the menu highlight the artisanal ingredients processed at the venue’s labs in via Spadari, from ‘punta d’anca bresaola’ to cow’s milk mozzarella, all accompanied by a careful selection of wines, sparkling wines, liqueurs and cocktails. The ideal spot to indulge in a relaxing break throughout the day, the bistro is open for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and ‘aperitivi’. www.peck.it/en/restaurants/piccolo-peck. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. Map F5

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Map F2

Peck A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanese taste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, from cured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spread out over three floors, Peck is also a great place for an unforgettable stopover. The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through a careful selection of products from all over the world. Don’t miss the “Piccolo Peck”, a gastronomic café at the ground floor reminding a Viennese café of the 30s, where you can relax and taste several specialties. Open Mon 3pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 9am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-5pm. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Advertorial

Tradition and innovation

since 1867

Since Savini first opened in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it has maintained the timeless

Ristorante Savini Milano 1867

elegance of the Belle Époque. Savini was the favourite haunt of some of the world’s

Via Ugo Foscolo, 5. T: +39 02 72003433. prenotazioni@savinimilano.it www.savinimilano.it

most illustrious names, including Verdi, Puccini, Toscanini, Maria Callas, Eleonora Duse and Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, who wrote the Manifest of the Futurist Movement here. Savini recently celebrated its 150th anniversary and boasts a continually evolving legacy in which tradition and innovation are intertwined. In 2007, the Gatto family PHOTOS © ANDREA DI LORENZO

took over the reins of this Milanese landmark restaurant, which is now divided into two spaces: a café/bistro and a restaurant. The café/bistro – open throughout the day – can be accessed from the Galleria and is the ideal place to enjoy a cup of coffee, tea or an aperitivo, while the restaurant is located on the first floor. Here, amidst period furnishings and soft lighting, you can opt for a traditional or more contemporary menu, signed by chef Giovanni Bon. For an impressive business lunch, in an elegant, historic setting, the restaurant offers a business lunch formula, featuring a choice of gourmet dishes.

Giovanni Bon - The chef’s kingdom is the restaurant’s modern, open-plan kitchen. Part Brianzolo and part Veneto, Savini’s Executive Chef Giovanni Bon, whose resume includes work experience at several of Italy’s and the world’s most celebrated restaurants, has made this space his culinary domain of choice. Bon combines traditional recipes with innovative techniques and creativity. Key features of his culinary expertise include the selection of raw materials, respect for the seasons and locally sourced products and cuisine that becomes art, research and flavour. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 47

[ TA S T I N G E X P E R I E N C E ]

Dining by district DUOMO DISTRICT CANTINA PIEMONTESE — www.cantina-piemontese.it. “Top-level” trattoria offering tradition Italian regional cuisine. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 CRACCO — www.ristorantecracco.it Milanese cuisine with a contemporary twist. Four floors of sheer culinary heaven. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 876774. M1- M3 Duomo. Map F4 FELICE A TESTACCIO — feliceatestaccio.it. Roman cuisine since 1936. Via del Torchio, 4. T: 02 80506690. M3 Missori. Map E5 GALLERIA — www.ristorantegalleria.it Stylish restaurant and traditional wood-fired pizza. Galleria Vittorio Emanule II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 IL RISTORANTE TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALA — www.trussardiallascala.com. Top-rate cuisine and outstanding interior design. Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 IL VERZIERE C/O NH COLLECTION MILANO PRESIDENT — nh-collection.com. The finest Italian and international cuisine in an elegant atmosphere. Largo Augusto, 10. T: 02 77461. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 PECK — www.peck.it. Iconic temple of Milanese taste. Every Sunday typical lunch. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 RISTORANTE SAVINI — www.savinimilano.it Gourmet flavours in the Galleria. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT ARMANI/RISTORANTE C/O ARMANI HOTEL MILANO — www.armanihotelmilano.com. Highclass cuisine in a vibrant atmosphere. Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 88838888. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

DON CARLOS C/O GRAND HOTEL ET DE MILAN — www.ristorantedoncarlos.it Traditional Italian cuisine in a sophisticated atmosphere. Via A. Manzoni, 29. T: 02 72314640. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LA VERANDA C/O FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MILANO— www.fourseasons. com/milan. Ultra-luxurious restaurant, Mediterranean cuisine, summer outdoor seating. Via Gesù, 6/8. T: 02 77081478. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 NOBU MILAN — www.noburestaurants.com Armani style with traditional Japanese cuisine. Via G. Pisoni, 1. T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 SETA C/O MANDARIN ORIENTAL MILAN — www.mandarinoriental.it. Fine dining restaurant in a beautiful setting. Michelinstarred restaurant. Via Monte di Pietà, 16-18. T: 02 87318897. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

BRERA DISTRICT RIGOLO — www.ristoranterigolo.it. Lombardy cuisine with a trattoria-like feel. Largo Treves corner of via Solferino, 11. T: 02 86463220. M2 Moscova. Map F3

NAVIGLIPORTA GENOVA DISTRICT MIERU MIERU — www.mierumieru.it A taste of Puglia with the aromas of the sea and the land. Via Magolfa, 14. T: 02 89406320. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7 TANO PASSAMI L’OLIO — www.tanopassamilolio.it. Creative cuisine based on extra virgin olive oil with a Mediterranean flare. Michelin-starred restaurant. Via Villoresi 16, corner of via Pastorelli. T: 02 8394139. M2 Porta Genova. Map C7

ISOLA DISTRICT BERBERÈ — www.berberepizza.it Select pizzas with a focus on vegetarian specialities. Via Sebenico, 21. T: 02 36707820. M5 Isola. Map F1 RATANÀ — www.ratana.it. Creative Lombardy cuisine in an historic location. Via G. de Castillia, 28. T: 02 87128855. M2 Gioia, M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F1

PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT VIVA VIVIANA VARESE RISTORANTE C/O EATALY SMERALDO — www.aliceristorante.it. Mediterranean

RATANÀ’s cuisine represents Milanese gastronomy of the past and present. Standouts among its offerings include this roast pheasant seasoned with clementines and broccoli.

48 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALA prides itself on the seasonality of its menus, using only the finest raw ingredients to seduce the palate.

high-quality cuisine. Michelin-starred restaurant. Piazza XXV Aprile, 10. T: 02 49497340. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 TRE CRISTI MILANO — www.trecristimilano.com Historic restaurant offering Mediterraneanbased cuisine. Via Galileo Galilei, 5 corner of via Marco Polo. T: 02 29062923. M3 Repubblica. Map G2 RISTORANTE BERTON — www.ristoranteberton.it. Essential haute cuisine. Michelin-starred restaurant. Via della Liberazione, 13. T: 02 67075801. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS, M3 Repubblica. Map F2

VERCELLIBELFIORE DISTRICT DENZEL — www.denzel.it Kosher restaurant in a welcoming ambience. Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. MapC4

STAZIONE CENTRALE DISTRICT ACANTO RESTAURANT C/O HOTEL PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA — dorchestercollection.com. Classic Italian cuisine by chef Alessandro Buffolino. Piazza della Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. M3 Repubblica. Map G2 SOULGREEN — www.soulgreen.com. An innovative bistro offering gluten-free fare and plant-based products. Piazzale Principessa Clotilde corner of via Vespucci. T: 02 62695162. M3 Repubblica, M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 STK MILAN — Modern steakhouse and elegant lounge. Piazza della Repubblica, 13. T: 02 84220110. M3 Repubblica. Map G2

SEMPIONE DISTRICT PECK — www.peck.it. The best of Italian wine and food in the new iconic district of Milan. CityLife Shopping District. Piazza Tre Torri. T: 02 36642660. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2 TERRAZZA TRIENNALE  OSTERIA CON VISTA — www.osteriaconvista.it High-quality cuisine by Stefano Cerveni, friendly atmosphere, panoramic view. Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 36644340. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3

Milano

FELICE A TESTACCIO Roman cuisine since 1936

Via del Torchio, 4 - Milan PHONE +39 0280506690

ENTERTAINMENT

Milan dances the Tango In the centre of Milan there’s a genuine Tango House, where Argentina’s food and wine culture embraces the sensuality of a dance that has been considered ‘prohibido’ for decades. By Chiara Zaccarelli

ho says that Milan is a cold, passionless city? Beginning in autumn, the city will be transformed into a small Buenos Aires thanks to events that are characteristic of the Argentine capital. These include evenings where you can enjoy top-level tango performances while you dine at the latest branch of the historic El Porteño restaurant, located just a stone’s throw from Piazza San Babila (see also the Arena and Darsena restaurants). The venue is called El Porteño Prohibido, and is located in a space dedicated to tango, and Argentinean food and wine, where it features a stage equipped with stateof-the-art technical equipment. The authentic porteña atmosphere at this new space reduces the distance between Milan and Buenos Aires. Guests will be immersed in the social, artistic and literary evolution of Argentinean society 50 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

starting with the tango, and thanks also to the architectural layout of the locale, and the painstaking attention to décor. The artistic director of the project is Argentine dancer and choreographer Miguel Angel Zotto, who has over 40 years of experience in the field, and is one of the most renowned names in the world of tango and live performance. He will star in a brand-new show titled ‘Prohibido’ every Friday and Saturday, until December, because the program at El Porteño Proibido changes every three months. The show will feature internationally acclaimed dancers accompanied by a live orchestra and a singer. The aim of the project is to disseminate Argentinean culture through the tango and its history. >> El Porteño Prohibido Via Macedonio Melloni, 9 (Piazza 5 Giornate area). Map H5 www.elporteno.it/eventi

El Porteño Arena restaurant

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APERITIVI

AFTER DINNER

Ceresio 7

Eppol Milano

Owned by fashion brand Dsquared2, this locale is one of the places to be on Milan’s nightlife scene. The venue is a hotspot for the city’s beau monde who flock here to enjoy a glamorous aperitivo on the rooftop of an old 1930s industrial building. In addition to two panoramic swimming pools, the venue boasts an unparalleled view over Porta Nuova and its skyscrapers. Ceresio 7’s Happy Hour includes a series of signature cocktails accompanied by classic finger food. It’s ultra-popular so don’t even think of going there without booking! Open daily 12.30pm-1am. www.ceresio7.com. Via Ceresio, 7. T: 02 31039221. M5 Monumentale. Map E2

Located in the increasingly vibrant Porta Venezia district, Eppol combines a graphic, artistic Milanese background with an atmosphere reminiscent of a 1930s American speakeasy. Décor highlights include exposed brickwork, plant-covered walls, crystal chandeliers and a counter reminiscent of New York locales. Eppol is a bistro and cocktail bar renowned for its painstaking attention to the choice of ingredients. Though oriented towards mixology, its cocktail menu is inventive but not overly experimental. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-1am; Sat-Sun 9.30am-1am. www.eppolmilano.com. Via M. Malpighi, 7. T: 320 0266560. Map H3

Fioraio Bianchi Caffè

Nottingham Forest

At this charming retro, Parisian-style bistrot, located in the equally picturesque Brera district, you can enjoy a cocktail or a glass of wine, surrounded by myriad varieties of plants and flowers (on sale), artfully stripped walls and exposed brickwork ceilings. At the aperitivo hour, you can order a cocktail or a glass of wine from the venue’s rich menu, accompanied by a buffet of vegetables, meatballs and other tasty nibbles. Open Mon-Sat 8am-midnight. www.fioraiobianchicaffe.it. Via Montebello, 7. T: 02 29014390. Map F3

Included in the list of 50 best bars in the world, this locale is a true mecca for cocktail enthusiasts. Go there if you enjoy experimentation and are not afraid of unusual consistencies, gelatins, resins, sprouts and molecular essences. Here, amidst Buddhas, Tiki statues, African masks and tropical plants, you’ll find a diverse clientele, all sharing a common objective: a desire to sample unusual, innovative cocktails. A word to the wise: be patient, the place is tiny, there’s always a large queue outside, and they don’t let large groups in. Open Tues-Sat 6.30pm-2am; Sun 6pm-1am. www.nottingham-forest.com. Viale Piave, 1. T: 02 798312. M1 Palestro. Map H3

N'Ombra de Vin This historic Milanese wine bar, located in a picturesque corner of Milan, next to the Basilica of San Marco, in a one-time 16th century refectory, is packed with customers from aperitivo hour till late at night. A wine bar, bistro and gastro bar rolled into one, it offers a list of prestigious wines with a focus on French labels. In summer, the pavement behind the locale teems with a relaxed crowd of punters. Open daily 10am-2pm. www.winebarnombradevin. it. Via San Marco, 2. T: 02 6599650. M2 Lanza. Map F3

Otto The signature dish at this light-filled, highly instagrammable space, is its ‘quadrotto’, squareshaped slice of bread topped with fresh ingredients. Otto is located in the heart of Chinatown, amidst plants and second-hand pieces of furniture. The venue’s aperitivo menu includes a selection of unique, spicy cocktails flavoured with ginger, matcha or lemon grass, as well as the classics, plus a selection of wines and craft beers. At Happy Hour (no buffet included), customers can accompany their drinks with an assortment of platters or dishes all prepared on the same day with high-quality ingredients. Open Tues-Sun 10am-2am; Sun 7pm2am. www.sarpiotto.com. Via P. Sarpi, 8. Map E2

Rita & Cocktails Listed among Italy’s Top 10 cocktail bars, Rita & Cocktails is a great classic on the Milanese cocktail scene. Located on the Naviglio Grande, in a corner that is delightfully detached from the frenzy of the ‘movida’, this locale is a hot favourite with customers from the aperitivo hour until late at night. Behind the counter, longtime owner Edoardo Nono and his partners serve evocatively named cocktails, inspired by their travels around the world. The cocktails, made using only the freshest, primequality ingredients, are accompanied by crudité, canapés and small tasting dishes prepared on-site by the locale’s chef. If you prefer to down a beer and gorge yourself on buffet food, we suggest you head elsewhere. Open daily 6.30pm-2am. Via A. Fumagalli, 1. T: 02 8372865. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map D6

Radio Rooftop Bar This Milanese hotspot, located on the tenth floor of the Me Milan Il Duca hotel, overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, attracts an international clientele and offers a remarkable array of classic cocktails. From sunset onwards, plus points include a breathtaking view over the city, in particular, the Porta Nuova district and its skyscrapers. Another key feature is the music – generally sophisticated house that warms the atmosphere without interrupting conversation. Open Sun-Wed 7pm-1am; Thurs-Sat 7pm-1am. radiorooftop.com. Via Marco Polo, 18. T: 02 84220109. Map G2

Surfer's Den Located on the outskirts of Milan, this charming venue is hidden inside a sports complex and immersed in a semi-wild garden of roses, hydrangeas and surfboards. It’s so far removed from the hustle and bustle of city life that after you’ve sampled one of their cocktails, expertly mixed by its master bartender, you’ll start smelling the sea. Please Note: since this is a sports complex you need a valid annual pass to get in. The pass costs approximately €10. www.surfersden.it. Piazza Caduti del Lavoro, 1. T: 338 5916764. Off Map

The Spirit We’re on the outskirts of Porta Romana, another area that recently saw the opening of numerous locales. As everyone knows, the most unexpected places are always well hidden. In order to gain access to The Spirit, you need to pass through a black, studded door, with a porthole in the middle. Once inside, you’ll find yourself immersed in an ambience reminiscent of a luxurious speakeasy, amidst mahogany counters, velvet sofas, mirrors and lighting adding a touch of intimacy and glamour. The drinks list includes high-quality wines and champagnes, exclusive spirits, the world’s best whiskies, aged bourbons and rare Mezcals, all served by expert bartenders. Open Thurs-Sun 6pm-2am. www.thespirit.it. Via Piacenza, 15. T: 02 84570612. Map G7

ALL CONCERTS ON THE CALENDAR WILL BE HELD AT AUDITORIUM DI MILANO FONDAZIONE CARIPLO, LARGO GUSTAV MAHLER. www.laverdi.org

SYMPHONIC SEASON › 3, 6 October Francesconi Music by Mahler and Francesconi. Michele Gamba, conductor Jay Campbell, cello Juliet Fraser, soprano Martin Matthias Hässler, baritone › 10, 11, 13 October Eroica Music by Mozart and Beethoven. Karem Hasan, conductor Felix Klieser, horn › 12 October Peter… and the wolf? Music by Sergej Prokof'ev. Orchestra laVerdi, with Banda Osiris. Andrea Oddone, conductor › 18, 20 October Ossessione Music by Campogrande and Ravel. Ottavia Piccolo, narrative voice Patrock Fournillier, conductor › 25, 27 October Anima Russa Music by Prokof'ev and Čajkovskij. Caroline Widnann, violin Stanislav Kochanovsky, conductor › 31 October and 1, 3 November Messa da Requiem Music by Giuseppe Verdi. Alfonso Taianin, chorus master Claus Peter Flor, conductor

MUSIC & SCIENCE › 19 October Beethoven e i buchi neri Music by Prokof'ev. Orchestra laVerdi with Banda Osiris. Simone Jovenitti, astrophysicist Ruben Jais, conductor

LA VERDI POPS › 26 October De André. A tribute Music by Sergej Prokof'ev. Giovanni Marziliano, conductor

CHAMBER MUSIC › 27 October Francia Music by Debussy and Ravel. Domenico Nordio & I Solisti de laVerdi

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

All the marvels of the Duomo Although the Duomo is a premier symbol of Milan, not everybody is aware that this Gothic masterpiece, located in the centre of the city, houses a vast array of artistic and cultural treasures. By Giulia Minero

52 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

Tecla (4th century). If you wish to admire the golden statue of the Madonnina close-up, need to ascend to the terraces, where you can wander among statues and spires. Before accessing the Cathedral and its treasures, visit the nearby Museo del Duomo, located inside Palazzo Reale. The museum houses more than 150 masterpieces from the 15th century to the present time, including statues, architectural models, plaster casts, terracottas and paintings. If you’re on a tight schedule but want to learn more about the secrets of the Duomo, you can take advantage of the new Duomo Milano App for smartphones, featuring images and content in 9 languages including Italian, English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese.

>> Duomo Info Point Piazza Duomo 14/A. T: 02 72023375. Map F5 www.duomomilano.it PH © VENERANDA FABBRICA DEL DUOMO DI MILANO

fter crossing the threshold of its 18th century façade in Candoglia marble, the interior of the Cathedral is revealed in all its majesty. The interior boasts an apse with a large rose window, stained glass windows decorated with episodes from the Bible, chapels and high marble columns with capitals featuring statues of saints. Guided tours for small groups help visitors learn about the secrets behind the Duomo’s construction. The tour starts from back of the choir which leads to the Crypt housing the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, and then moves on to the Archaeological Area where you’ll find the remains of the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti, dating back to 397 A.D. This is where Sant’ Ambrogio christened St. Augustine. Next is the old Basilica of Santa

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FREE WITH Enjoy Milan with the "all inclusive" city pass. www.themilanpass.com - infoline: +39 02 867131

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Ambrosiana, Picture Gallery and Library The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. The Ambrosiana library contains one million books including manuscripts and prints. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Castello Sforzesco The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Open daily 7am-6pm (winter time); 7am-7.30pm (summer time); Thurs 7am-10.30pm. Free admission. www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map E4

Duomo Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed on and off over a period of 450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan. The cathedral is open daily 8am-7pm. The recently renovated Museo del Duomo (10am-6pm) houses hundreds of works of art dating from the 15th century to the present day. MAJESTIC TERRACES To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles and the famed golden “Madonnina”. www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 FREE WITH

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II The Galleria with its elegant, four-storey arcade, housing over 55 luxury cafés and

famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola and measures 196 metres in length. Tradition has it that placing your right heel on the bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, and then spinning around inside it, will bring good luck. Don’t miss the Leonardo3-The World of Leonardo da Vinci exhibition with new discoveries: codices, machines, paintings and drawings (from Piazza della Scala at the entrance of the Galleria. Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. Open daily 9.30am-10.30pm. T: 02 49519981. www.leonardo3.net). Map F4

Last Supper (The)

HOP ON HOP OFF TOUR on panoramic open-topped red ou r u n o r stops and multi-lingual commentary. A new electric bus is available www.milano.city-sightseeing.it

One of the most famous attractions in the world, the “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th century mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Reservation required. www. cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 FREE WITH

Montenapoleone District Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map F4-G4

Navigli District The Navigli are a widespread network of canals whose history is linked to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One of the most vibrant districts in the city, it boasts small artisan workshops and painter’s studios reminiscent of those found on the left bank in Paris. Don’t miss a visit to the Darsena, renewed a few years ago. You can reach the Navigli with the new D Line of the CitySightseeing Milano (Navigli stop, from 2.30pm to 6pm). Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 4. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E6

Porta Nuova District Three glass towers and a piazza elevated six metres above the street, near the Garibaldi Railway Station and the ultra-trendy Corso Como: the scenic piazza Gae Aulenti is an innovative business hub hosting new boutiques. Via Melchiorre Gioia-Corso Como and surrounding area. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

St. Ambrose Basilica One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose (patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an area where numerous martyrs had been buried. The church is a wonderful example of Romanesque style. Free admission. www. basilicasantambrogio.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15. T: 02 86450895. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map E5

Teatro alla Scala A few steps from the Duomo, the Teatro alla Scala - designed by Piermarini - was inaugurated in 1778 with an opera by Antonio Salieri. Most of Italy’s greatest operatic artists and many of the finest singers from around the world have appeared at La Scala during the past 200 years. Lying adjacent to the theatre, the Museo Teatrale ( FREE WITH ) and the Scala Shop (T: 02 45483257) are not to be missed destinations

The Milan Pass (69€) includes:

ENJOY MILAN WITH THE “ALL INCLUSIVE” CITY PASS T

r off r o u u on n r n por on and restaurants in Milan.

www.themilanpass.com - Infoline: +39 02 867131

• a nominative pass • a book of vouchers for admission and discounts for a total value of over 400€ • a map of the city Where to purchase The Milan Pass: • on the www.themilanpass.com website • at the Milan Visitor Center • from leading international tour operators • at hotels and participating facilities • on board CitySightseeing buses

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

for ballet and opera lovers. www.teatroallascala. org. Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72003744. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ambrosiana Picture Gallery The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. Don't miss the "Leonardo da Vinci tour" organized by Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). Open Tues-Sun 9am7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. www. ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. M1M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala MUST-SEE The Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are housed in three historic buildings overlooking Milan’s elegant via Manzoni, piazza della Scala and via Morone. Two buildings host masterpieces of 19th century Italian art from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the opulent Neo-classical rooms of Palazzo Anguissola and the 19th century Palazzo Brentani. A new section features 20th century masterpieces from the Intesa Sanpaolo

collections. Open: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm. Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm. Closed on Monday. Full price ticket €10. www.gallerieditalia.com. Piazza della Scala, 6. T: 800.167619. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

GAM | Galleria d'Arte Moderna Boasting 2,700 paintings and 700 sculptures, this Galleria inaugurated in 1921 is above all a “nineteenth century museum” hosting mainly Italian and French works of art. The Gallery is set against the beautifully elegant backdrop of Villa Reale, with its magnificent English garden. Open Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Full price ticket €5. Tourist MuseumCard (3-day pass for unlimited access to Civic Museums in Milan): €12. www.gam-milano.com. Via Palestro, 16. T: 02 88445947. M1 Palestro, M3 Turati. Map G3

Leonardo3 – The World of Leonardo The exhibit allows visitors to appreciate the many sides of Leonardo da Vinci’s technical and artistic production with interactive stations, fully functioning maschines made from studying Leonardo’s manuscripts, unprecedented physical reconstructions, digital restorations and three-dimensional reconstructions of his creations. This is the only place in the world where visitors can see a reconstruction of “The Last Supper” as it was 500 year ago, when Leonardo painted it. The exhibit is produced bt the Leonardo3 (L3) Research Center. All interactive experiences are both in English

and Italian and the audio guides are available in Italian, English, Russian, German, French, Spanish, Portuguese and Chinese. Open daily 9.30am-10.30, including holidays. www. leonardo3.net. Piazza della Scala (entrance from inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele I). Map F4

MUDEC – Museum of Cultures MUDEC is a multi-disciplinary hub dedicated to cultures of the world, featuring different spaces that offer visitors a multiplicity of cultural proposals and services, spread out over 17,000 sq.m.: rooms hosting the museum’s collection and temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bistrot, a design store, a cafeteria, a restaurant, a library, workshops and a junior space. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri, Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs, Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www.mudec.it. T: 02 54917. Via Tortona, 56. M2 Porta Genova. Map C6

Musei del Castello Sforzesco Antique art, paintings, period furniture, sculptures and musical instruments are housed in Castello Sforzesco’s precious treasure trove. The building alone is well worth a visit. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm, closed on Mondays. Full price ticket €5. Free admittance: after 4.30pm every day except Fri; always free for children under 18. www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello. T: 02 88463703. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map D3

Museo del Design Italiano Located on the ground floor of the Triennale Milano, the Museo del Design Italiano, hosts a selection of the most representative pieces of Italian design from 1946 to 1981. Spread over a surface of 1,300 sq.m, the over 200 works on exhibit are part of the Triennale collection and are displayed in chronological order to provide insights into the history, creative period and context in which each work was designed, as well as the influence they had on daily life objects. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Full ticket price €18 (exhibition XXII Triennale di Milano Broken Nature included). www.triennale. org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Off Map

Museo del Duomo Totally refurbished in 2013, the museum houses and highlights all the material not presently in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and construction. Comprising 2,000 square metres of space, twenty seven rooms and thirteen thematic areas, the museum hosts more than two hundred sculptures and over seven hundred gypsum models and then again paintings, stained glass windows, tapestries and architectural models ranging from the 15th century to the present day. Worthy of particular note are the rooms of the Tesoro, Tintoretto’s “Jesus Among the Doctors”, the imposing wooden model of the cathedral built in 1519 and the tiles of the fifth door of the Duomo by Lucio Fontana and Luciano Minguzzi. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Wednesday and 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full price ticket €6. Cumulative ticket 15€ (Terraces of the Duomo by lift, Museum and Tesoro and the Baptistery of San Giovanni alle Fonti). http:// museo.duomomilano.it. Palazzo Reale, piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 72022656. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 FREE WITH 54 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

SEASON 2019/20 Orchestra Sinfonica e Coro Sinfonico di Milano Giuseppe Verdi AUDITORIUM DI MILANO FONDAZIONE CARIPLO Largo Gustav Mahler TUESDAY/SUNDAY 10-19 - T. 02.83389.401/402

laverdi.org

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Museo del Novecento One of the youngest museums in the city, lying adjacent to the Duomo, hosts more than 400 20th century masterpieces of Italian and international art – ranging from Fontana to Picasso – at the Palazzo dell’Arengario. Don’t miss a sight of Piazza Duomo from the “Sala Fontana”. Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. Full ticket €10. Tourist MuseumCard (3-day pass for unlimited access to Civic Museums in Milan): €12. www. museodelnovecento.org. Piazza Duomo. T: 02 88444061. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Museo di Storia Naturale

T: 02 88792473. T: 02 7423. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Its collections explore the relationship between men and machines starting from the ingenious inventions of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci. Open Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.00pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays 9.30am) 6.30pm. Full ticket €10 ( FREE WITH + Guided tour inside the Enrico Toti submarine €8. www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21. T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Completed in 1996, this 1,200 sq.m. space is the most important exhibition centre for contemporary art in Milan, boasting a garden area for sculptures, a raised floor for paintings and a balcony for photos and graphic works. Fully accessible by the disabled. Open Tues-Sun 9.30am- 7.30pm; Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm (only during the exhibitions). Full price ticket €8. www.pacmilano.it. Via Palestro, 14. T: 02 88446359. M1 Palestro, M3 Turati. Map G3

Museo Teatrale alla Scala Founded in 1913, it recently underwent an important makeover and is dedicated to the history of the famous Milan Opera House with a vast collection of musical instruments and documents dedicated to famous musicians, including Verdi and Toscanini. Visitors can look into the theatre, provided there are no rehearsals, or admire the “machine” that gives stage directions. Open Mon-Sun (except holidays) 9am12.30am/1.30pm-5.30pm. Full ticket €6. Museo Teatrale alla Scala + Museo Poldi Pezzoli €9 (Monday only). www.teatroallascala.org. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1 corner of Piazza della Scala.

STEFANO BOERI ARCHITETTI © PAOLO ROSSELLI

Home to valuable mineral, botanical and zoological collections. Highlights include a large fossil collection, reconstructions of extinct animals and dioramas with stuffed animals shown in their natural habitats originating both from Europe and other exotic places. It contains the only dinosaur skeleton existing in Italy. Open Tues-Sun 9am5.30pm. Full price ticket €3 (free admission on Friday afternoon). www.comune.milano.it/ museostorianaturale. Corso Venezia, 55. T: 02 88463337. M1 Palestro. Map G3

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci

Beauty refound After an important restoration lasting four years, Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. The cartoon was created as a preparatory sketch for the large painting commissioned by Pope Julius II to decorate the Stanza della Segnatura in the Vatican, and was entirely hand-drawn by Raphael. The work has been hung alone in a room in the Pinacoteca: this room, known as the Sala Raffaello, was especially redesigned for the occasion by the architectural firm Stefano Boeri Architetti, and enables visitors to get close enough to see the precision of the charcoal strokes and the realism of the large-scale figures depicted. Information panels and multimedia tools outlining the history, technique and restoration of this masterpiece complete the exhibition. Raphael’s Cartoon, located just a short distance from Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’ and Michelangelo’s ‘Pietà Rondanini’, is one of the focal points of Renaissance Milan. www. raffaeloambrosiana.it

56 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2019

PAC – Contemporary Art Pavilion

Palazzo Reale Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri-Sun 9.30am7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www. comune.milano.it/palazzoreale. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 88465230. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Pinacoteca di Brera Opened to the public in 1809, the Pinacoteca di Brera is located in the Neo-classical building of the same name which also houses other cultural institutions including the Braidense Library, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts. The Pinacoteca hosts one of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy. The new layouts of its rooms is scheduled for completion by 2018. Open Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.15pm (Thurs 8.30am-10.15pm, the entrance price is 2 euro starting from 6pm until 10.15pm - ticket office closure at 9.40pm). Full ticket price €10. pinacotecabrera.org. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3 FREE WITH

Pirelli HangarBicocca A former industrial plant, HangarBicocca is a lively cultural space dedicated to the production, display and promotion of contemporary art. Permanent exhibitions include “I Sette Palazzi Celesti”, the monumental towers created by German artist Anselm Kiefer and an installation by Fausto Melotti “La Sequenza”, located outside. HangarBicocca features a number of spaces designed to accommodate various initiatives and free events. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-11pm. Closed on Mon-Tues-Wed. Free admission. www.hangarbicocca.org. Via Chiese, 2. T: 02 661115 73. M5 Ponale. Off Map

Triennale Milano The Triennale Milano is one of the most vibrant, popular and important exhibition centres in the city. Featuring annually changing exhibitions of note, it also owns the most important permanent collection of design works. This fantastic museum is brimming with endless installations originating from brilliant minds all over the world. It has a superb media library on design, art and architecture. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm (last admission 1 hour before closing time). Closed on Monday. Full ticket €10. www.triennale.org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3 FREE WITH

Advertorial

Leonardo da Vinci’s total experience

The exhibit Leonardo3 - The World of Leonardo allows visitors to appreciate the many sides of Leonardo da Vinci’s technical and artistic work. Featuring interactive stations, fully functioning machines based on studies of Leonardo’s manuscripts, unprecedented reconstructions, digital restorations and three-

Leonardo3 - The World of Leonardo Piazza della Scala (entrance from inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). Open daily 9.30am-10.30pm, including holidays www.leonardo3.net

dimensional reconstructions of Leonardo’s artistic creations, the exhibit is unique and extremely instructive. The experience of the ‘Last Supper’ allows visitors to investigate and discover details and colours now lost from the famous wall painting in the refectory of the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. This is the only place in the world where visitors can see a reconstruction of the ‘Last Supper’ as it was 500 years ago when Leonardo painted it, offering them a chance to see all the colours and details that were irreparably lost, providing viewers with a better understanding of the original.

Unique in Italy. With 900,000 visitors, the exhibition is produced by the Leonardo3 (L3) Research Center. All interactive experiences are in English, and Italian and the contents are accessible to an international public, with audio guides also available in Italian, English, Russian, German, French, Spanish, Portuguese and Chinese. The exhibition received the “Award of Excellence from the President of the Italian Republic”.

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ESSENTIALS

Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

INA ANTONIETTA

S7 S8 S9 S11 S7 S8 S9 S11

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

S2 S4

ORITA

S2 S4

Limite tariffa / Fare limit Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

UNDERGROUND NETWORK & URBAN RAILWAY SYSTEM

A DE’ PECCHI

Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

Cusano Milanino

CO S.N.

S1 S3

BURRONA

Cusano Milanino

S1 S3 Bresso

Cormano

Vimodrone

Bollate

Novate Milanese RHO Fieramilano

RHO S5-S6 S11 Fieramilano

Novate Milanese COMASINA

Segrate

Settimo Milanese

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Urban passes fare limit

S5-S6 -S11

Urban passes fare limit

Villapizzone Certosa S5-S6 -S11 S5-S6 -S11

S2-S4

ISTRIA AFFORI CENTRO AFFORI CENTRO DERGANO MARCHE Bovisa Politecnico DERGANO S1-S2-S3-S4

MACIACHINI

BONOLA

BONOLA TRE TORRI URUGUAY

URUGUAY

SAN SIRO

Stadio Settimo Milanese

SESTO RONDÒ

ISOLA Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

MONUMENTALE GERUSALEMME

VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO NORD COLOGNO NORD VILLA SAN GIOVANNI VILLA FIORITA

Greco Bicocca PRECOTTO S7-S8 S9-S11

ISTRIA

INGANNI

MARCHE ZARA

BISCEGLIE

Buccinasco Cesano Boscone

Cesano Boscone

COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA GORLA COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE Vimodrone TURRO

TURRO

ROVERETO

ISOLA

Corsico

GIOIA MONUMENTALE

CAIAZZO GIOIA CENTRALE GARIBALDIFS FS

S1-S2-S5-S6

MOSCOVA S11-S12-S13

LANZA TURATI

S1-S2-S5-S6

CIMIANO

PASTEUR

LORETO CAIAZZO

LORETO

PIOLA CENTRALE FS LIMA

CIMIANO

UDINE

LAMBRATE FS S9 PIOLA

LAMBRATE FS

LIMA S1-S2-S5

S1-S2-S5

S11-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA

P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13

S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

TURATI PALESTRO

ROMOLO

PALESTRO Dateo S1-S2

Dateo S1-S2 S5-S6 S12-S13 P. Vittoria Forlanini S1-S2-S5 S5-S6-S9 S6-S12-S14

Forlanini S5-S6-S9

Segrate

P. Romana FS S9

FAMAGOSTA

S5 S6

BRENTA

CORVETTO CORVETTO ASSAGO MilanofioriASSAGO Nord Milanofiori Nord Buccinasco P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO PORTO DI MARE PORTO DI MARE Chiesa Rossa Chiesa Rossa ASSAGO ASSAGO Milanofiori Forum Milanofiori Forum

e Orio al Serio al Serio Airports

Assago

Vimodrone

CRESCENZAGO CRESCENZAGO

ROVERETO

PASTEUR SONDRIO

ROGOREDO FS Corsico

Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

VILLA FIORITA

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

CERNUSCO S.N. CERNUSCO S.N. Cologno MonzeseCologno Monzese PRECOTTO

GORLA

SAN BABILA SAN BABILA S5-S6 MONTENAPOLEONE MONTENAPOLEONE BUONARROTI BUONARROTI PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE S12-S13 DUOMO DUOMO P. Vittoria CADORNA FN WAGNER CADORNA FN WAGNER S1-S2-S5 CAIROLI CORDUSIO CAIROLI CORDUSIO S6-S12-S14 MISSORI MISSORI DE ANGELI DE ANGELI S. AMBROGIO S. AMBROGIO CROCETTA CROCETTA GAMBARA GAMBARA S. AGOSTINO S. AGOSTINO P.TA ROMANA P.TA ROMANA BANDE NERE BANDE NERE P. Romana FS P.TA GENOVA FS P.TA GENOVA FS S9 TIBB LODI PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo LODI TIBB PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo INGANNI

GORGONZOLA

BUSSERO BUSSERO CASSINA DE’ PECCHI CASSINA DE’ PECCHI

SESTO MARELLI SESTO MARELLI

BICOCCA Greco Bicocca S7-S8 CA’ GRANDA S9-S11

SONDRIO

CENISIOGARIBALDI FS

TRE TORRI CENISIO

LAMPUGNANO LAMPUGNANO PORTELLO PORTELLO QT8 QT8 MOSCOVA SAN SIRO LOTTO LOTTO Stadio LANZA SAN SIRO SEGESTA SAN SIRO SEGESTA Ippodromo Ippodromo AMENDOLA AMENDOLA

Peschiera Borromeo

CASCINA ANTONIETTA

GORGONZOLA

SESTO RONDÒ

VILLA POMPEA VILLA POMPEA

BIGNAMI Parco Nord

ZARA MACIACHINI

Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

GESSATE

S7-S8 S9-S11 CASCINA ANTONIETTA

Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Automatic train to S. Raffaele CASCINA Automatic train to S. Raffaele GOBBA CASCINA GOBBA

Villapizzone S5-S6 -S11

MOLINO DORINO MOLINO DORINO GERUSALEMME S. LEONARDO S. LEONARDO DOMODOSSOLA FNDOMODOSSOLA FN

SESTO 1° MAGGIO FS 1° MAGGIO S9-S11 SESTO FS

PONALE

BICOCCA AFFORI FN S2-S4 CA’ GRANDA

AFFORI FN

Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3

S1-S2-S3-S4

PERO

BIGNAMI Parco Nord PONALE

Baranzate Bovisa Politecnico

Certosa S5Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Baranzate

Pero PERO

Bruzzano S2-S4

COMASINA

S5-S6 S11

Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3

Pero

Cormano

GESSATE

S7-S8

Bresso

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Bruzzano S2-S4

Sesto San Giovanni Sesto San Giovanni

Cinisello Balsamo Cinisello Balsamo

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

ONZOLA

POMPEA

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

SSATE

Assago

S1-S12-S13

ROGOREDO FS S1-S12-S13

Rozzano

Opera

S. DONATO

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Peschiera Borromeo Peschiera Borromeo

San Donato Milanese San Donato Milanese

S9 Limite tariffa / Fare limitLimite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

S13

Limite tariff a abbonamenti urbani METROPOLITANA LINEA 1Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 Tariffa / Fare Urban passes fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 1 Urban passes fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 1 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 Limite tariff a / Fare limit METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 Limite tariffa / Fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 2 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 Tariffa / Fare METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 Tariffa / Fare METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm). Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900. Ordinary ticket (2€) Valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or the metro Day ticket (7€) Valid 24h. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Three-day ticket (12€) Valid for 3 consecutive days from the day of the first validation until the end of the service on the third day. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Check rates for the extra-urban subway. https://nuovosistematariffario.atm.it/en/ Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors.

S13 S1 S12

S1 S12

Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Tariffa / Fare Step-free station (lifts) 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3Step-free station (lifts) Stazione accessibile (montascale) Stazione accessibile (montascale) Step-free station (stairlifts) Step-free station (stairlifts) Tariffa / Fare

Linea 73 Aeroporto di Linate Linea 73 per Aeroporto diper Linate Line 73 to Linate Airport Line 73 to Linate Airport

5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

Terminal bus lunga percorrenza Terminal bus lunga percorrenza distance bus terminal Long distance busLong terminal

Bus Aeroporto di Linate, Bus per Aeroporto diper Linate, Malpensa e Orio Malpensa al Serio e Orio al Serio Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita Malpensa Express Malpensa Express ATM Point: information ATM Point: information and sales point and sales point Tariffa / Fare ferroviarie regionali Linee ferroviarie Linee regionali Regional railways Regional railways Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 con rete ferroviaria Interscambio conInterscambio rete ferroviaria Connection with railway system Connection with railway system

CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ONHOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. NEW A new electric bus is available. A Line: Castello, Cenacolo, Sant'Ambrogio, Navigli, Università Statale, Duomo, La Scala, Arena. B Line: Castello, Triennale, Corso Como, Stazione Centrale, Buenos Aires, San Babila, Brera. C Line: Castello, Garibaldi, Monumentale, Fieramilanocity, Stadio San Siro, Parco Sempione. NEW D Line: Castello, Cadorna, Navigli. Purchase your Combo tickets for top attractions on board at special prices. Download for free the “Sightseeing Experience” App for your walking tour downtown and to discover the bus stops and the timetable. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it Map E4

Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM ATM car park ATM car park

Courtesy ATM – Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

NEW!

Tourist Information INFOPOINT  TOURIST OFFICE OF MILAN Piazza Duomo, 14 Multilingual tourist assistance and information; free distribution of maps and brochures. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-1pm. T: 02 88455555 - www.yesmilano.it infotourist@comune.milano.it You can also find tourist information in the brand new office: YESMILANO TOURISM SPACECAMERA DI COMMERCIO & COMUNE DI MILANO Palazzo Giureconsulti - Via dei Mercanti 8 A highly-digital environment created to "immerse" visitors into a multi-sensory and technological experience. Open Mon-Fri 9am6.30pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 1.30pm-5.30pm T: 02 85155931 - www.yesmilano.it infotourismspace@mi.camcom.it

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ESSENTIALS Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

• EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. • PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

Street markets (see map pages 62-63) 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters. Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli to via Bersanti) 2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the world over. Last Sunday of every month. Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO STAMPS AND COINS – A historic market and the third largest in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays. Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo. 4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street market. Tuesdays and Saturdays. Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino. 5. ANTIQUE AND SECONDHAND BOOK MARKET – A monthly appointment for booksellers from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the month (excluding the months of July and August). Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo. 6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market. Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm. www.cuccagna.org. Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori. 7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired market boasting vintage or second-hand clothes and accessories, as well as street food. Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI BRERA Every third Sunday of the month

in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm. Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – via Formentini. M2 Lanza. 9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated

by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists. Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am-1pm) and Saturday (7.30am-5pm). 10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market

in corso XXII Marzo. From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm).

Trains TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains. • Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it 60 W H E R E M I L A N I O MC AYTO2017 B E R 2019

TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban Railway

. Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Airports MILANO MALPENSA MXP  (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’. Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304. Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale).

Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station. Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station. Travel time 40' ca. Trenord (www.malpensaexpress.it). Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949. MILANO LINATE LIN - (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com BREAKING NEWS Milano Linate is set to re-open on 27th October 2019, but some worksites will stay open for the renovation and expansion of the airport, scheduled to continue up to 2021. ORIO AL SERIO BGY) - (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. • Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’. Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com). T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it). T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5.

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Street Markets (see page 60)

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Milan Magazine

5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Matteotti – Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6 • G4 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2

4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES AC Hotel Milano by Marriott – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Goldenmile Milan – Viale Cristoforo Colombo, 33 • D6 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio –Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Citylife Hotel Poliziano – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6

Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1 Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 Hyatt Centric Milano Centrale – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 IH ApartHotel Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 J24 – Viale Jenner, 24 • OFF MAP King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Castello – Via San Tomaso, 2 • MAP F4 Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Monforte 27 – Corso Monforte, 27 • G4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3

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NH Milano Congress Centre – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Palazzo Moscova – Via Monte Grappa, 12b • MAP F2 NH Milano Touring – Via U. Tarchetti, 2 • G3 NH Milano 2 – Via F.lli Cervi - Segrate (Milano 2) • OFF MAP NHOW Milano – Via Tortona, 35 • C6 Novotel Milano Malpensa Aeroporto – Via al Campo, 99 Cardano al Campo (VA) • Off Map Nu – Via Feltre, 19/b • Off Map NYX Milan – Piazza IV Novembre, 3 . G1 Oro Blu – Piazzale Lotto, 14, corner of Via Veniero • MAP B2 Osteria della Pista – Via Verbano, 1 (Casorate Sempione, VA) • OFF MAP Palazzo delle Stelline – Corso Magenta, 61 • E4 Palazzo Segreti – Via San Tomaso, 8 • E4 Phi Hotel Milano – Via Falzarego, 1 (Baranzate) • OFF MAP Pioppeto – Via Strà Madonna, 15 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Radisson Blu – Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAP Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAP Ramada Plaza– Via d’Ancona, 27 • OFF MAP Regina – Via C. Correnti, 13 • E5 Residence Desenzano Milano – Via Desenzano, 12 • A5 Residence Romana – Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6 Room Mate Giulia – Via Silvio Pellico, 4 • F4 Royal Garden – Via G. Di Vittorio, Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Santa Marta Suites – Via Santa Marta, 4 • E5 Sanpi – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • G3 Savona 18 Suites – Via Savona, 18 • Map D6 Senato Hotel Milano – Via Senato, 22 • E5 Sheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3 Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport – Ferno (VA) Aeroporto Malpensa 2000, Terminal 1 • OFF MAP Sheraton Milan San Siro – Via Caldera, 21 • OFF MAP Silver – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAP SINA De la Ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5 Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5 Star – Via dei Bossi, 5 • Map F4 Starhotels Anderson – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1 Starhotels Business Palace – Via Privata Pietro Gaggia, 3 • OFF MAP Starhotels Echo – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1 Starhotels Grand Milan – Via Varese, 23 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • H3 Starhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • F5 Straf – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F4 Sunflower – Piazzale Lugano, 10 • OFF MAP Terminal – Via Ponte Seveso, 38 • Map G1 The Hub – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAP The Originals Hotel Milan Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • C1 The Square Milano Duomo – Via Albricci, 2-4 • F5 The Yard Milano – Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 • E6 Tocq Hotel – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F2 TownHouse 33 Boutique Hotel – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • H4 Trova il Tempo – Via Novara, 216 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Century Milano – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G2 UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano – Via Cusani, 13 • E4 UNAHOTELS Expo Fiera Milano – Via G. Keplero, 12 – Pero (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Malpensa – Via F. Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Mediterraneo Milano– Via L. Muratori 14 • H6 UNAHOTELS Scandinavia Milano – Via G.B. Fauché, 15 • C1 UNAHOTELS The One Milano – Via Maastricht, 3 (San Donato) • OFF MAP UNAWAY Contessa Jolanda Hotel & Residence Milano – Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAP UNAWAY Linea Uno Hotel & Residence Milano – Viale Monza, 139 • OFF MAP UNAWAY Quark Due Hotel & Residence Milano – Via Lampedusa, 11/3 • OFF MAP Vittoria – Via P. Calvi, 32 • H5 Uptown Palace – Via Santa Sofia, 10 • F6 Windsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2 Worldhotel Cristoforo Colombo – Corso Buenos Aires, 3 • H3 Vittoria - Via P. Calvi, 32 • H4-H5 Zara Milano – Viale Zara, 28 • OFF MAP