Where Magazine New Orleans Apr 2018 by Morris Media Network

APRIL 2018 MONTH YEAR CELEBRATING THE COMPLETE80GUIDE YEARSTOOFGO® TRAVEL

New Orleans

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SAIL OF THE CENTURIES Tricentennial Celebrations, Tall Ships, Navy Week and More

TOURS WITH A BEAT MUSIC FESTS

WRESTLEMANIA ALL-DAY CAFÉS

The Tall Ships are Coming!® to New Orleans April 19 - 22 for the Tricentennial.

Fresh Florida

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New Orleans CONTENTS

04.18

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 20

09 Ask the Expert

DINING

Joseph LeCour Concierge at the Hotel Monteleone.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus the brunch beat and Dong Phuong.

10 Editor’s Note Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

XX 30 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates FQ Festival & Jazzfest More than 500 must-catch music acts, "Rent," Trombone Shorty and 25 other entertainment ideas to put on your list.

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus Michael P. Smith's Jazzfest imagery and garden party footwear.

GALLERIES + ANTIQUES

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus French Quarter Fest photog Zack Smith and an AfricanAmerican tricentennial exhibit.

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus WrestleMania 34 and a tiny XX museum that's big on jazz.

72 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for outdoor enthusiasts, music lovers and families. ON THE COVER

MONTH2018 APRIL YEAR THE COMPLETE80GUIDE CELEBRATING YEARSTOOFGO® TRAVEL

ing New Orleans

New Orleans wheretraveler.com

SAIL OF THE CENTURIES

Oosterschelde, one of six tall ships vist-

The Dutch vessel

Tricentennial Celebrations, Tall Ships, Navy Week and More

TOURS WITH A BEAT MUSIC FESTS

this month. ©TALL SHIPS® AMERICA E~NO-WM_180400_01_Cover.indd 1

WRESTLEMANIA ALL-DAY CAFÉS

The Tall Ships are Coming!® to New Orleans April 19 - 22 for the Tricentennial.

3/6/18 3:16 PM

ENTERTAINMENT

where now 14 Local Knowledge

NAVIGATE

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinaXX tions. Plus Blue Bike-sharing.

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus plantations' starring roles.

Music-focused walking tours and self-guided treks.

16 Out + About CONNECT WITH US

Ships ahoy, tricentennial events and four more music fests to keep an ear out for.

17 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

All-day eateries, hot restaurant dish and Maïs Arepas.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(LEFT) ©CAROL ROSEGG, 2017; (CENTER, TOP) ©NAPOLEON HOUSE; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©LORIN GAUDIN

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Joseph LeCour Concierge at the Hotel Monteleone Q: Where would you send guests for brunch with a beat? A: My favorite brunch spot with live music is Atchafalaya (p. 26). Muriel’s (p. 25) is another favorite. Q: What about for an offbeat brunch? A: Trinity (p. 26) does a drag brunch that’s a lot of fun. It’s not expensive, and the performers, food and drinks are all excellent. It makes for a wonderful experience; my wife loved it. Q: WrestleMania or Jazzfest? Where are we most likely to find you? A: Jazzfest, without a doubt. I love reggae, so I'm excited to see Steel Pulse, and my wife loves Sting, so she'll have to see him. And we're both fans of Big Freedia and Trombone Shorty, so we’ll probably be checking them out too.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NOCVB

Q: Suggest an off-the-radar outdoor spot. A: My kids love the Fly, which is a great place to go behind the Audubon Zoo (p. 44). It’s a large open area along the riverfront. We usually go after taking them to the zoo, so they can just run around and have a good time. Q: What do you love most about New Orleans? A: The culture and the food, of course, but really just being able to relax and not feel pushed into doing things. It’s such a laid-back city, even for those of us working here. I love everything about it.

Atchafalaya

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

Where We Were This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the midcentury milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 1994. Jazzfest celebrated a quarter-century with headliners including Count Basie, Al Hirt, Little Richard, B.B. King, Willie Nelson and Wynton Marsalis, who appeared on that April’s cover of Where and performed at mayor Marc Morial’s inauguration in early May. The French Quarter Festival turned 10, and Record Ron’s touted “100,000 previously used albums.” The Cabildo reopened after a 1988 fire, the Warehouse District “emerged from the riverfront remains of the 1984 World’s Fair,” riverboat casinos rolled on both the Mississippi and Lake Pontchartrain and Mister Bingle still hung over the entrance of Maison Blanche (now the Ritz-Carlton) during the holidays. Stephen Stills (of Crosby, Nash and Young fame) opened his TouCanDu eatery on Decatur Street, the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience debuted in July, Glamour voted the riverfront Bella Luna restaurant “one of the best places to kiss” and the Quarter Scene offered 31 varieties of burgers. Anne Rice’s locally shot “Interview With the Vampire” hit the big screen, and Marie Osmond starred as Maria von Trapp in “The Sound of Music” at the Saenger Theatre. Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

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WHERE CALENDAR APRIL

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS

HOT

22 additional events and ideas worth entertaining. CIVIC THEATRE Apr. 9: OMD; Apr. 18: The Wailers; Apr. 20: The Angels with The Black Lips; Apr. 26-28: Troy Anastasio Band; Apr. 30: The Darkness. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

DATES

HOUSE OF BLUES Apr. 10: The Oh Hellos; Apr. 26: Dixie Dreggs; Apr. 28: Dirty Dozen Brass Band; Apr. 29: Jon Cleary; Apr. 30: Piano Night. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583

French Quarter Festival and Jazzfest

Music is in the air, in the streets and at every turn this month with the French Quarter Festival and the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival offering hundreds of much-catch acts. Celebrating 35 years of the “largest showcase of Louisiana music in the world,” French Quarter Fest spotlights more than 300 musicians, including recent Grammy winners The Lost Bayou Ramblers, on 20-plus stages spread throughout the Vieux Carré. Sting, Aretha Franklin, Jimmy Buffett, Bonnie Raitt, David Byrne and Sturgill Simpson headline the opening weekend of Jazzfest, joined by an additional 200 performers. Keep your dancing shoes on! fqfi.org; nojazzfest.com

French Quarter Easter Parade

caption here

"Rent"

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 EASTER PARADES > APRIL 1 Bunny-hop between the French Quarter Easter Parade (10:30 am), Chris Owens’ Easter Parade (1 pm) and the Gay Easter Parade (4:30 pm).

2 DEREK SMALLS: LUKEWARM WATER LIVE > APRIL 14 Smalls (aka actor and part-time resident Harry Shearer), of “This Is Spinal Tap” fame, joins forces with the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

3 RENT > APRIL 1722 When Jonathan Larsen’s 20th-century spin on Puccini’s “La Boheme” hit Broadway in the

late 1990s, audiences and critics couldn’t get enough of it. Catch the Pulitzer-winning rock musical when it pulls into the Saenger on its 20th anniversary tour. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4 NEW ORLEANS VOICES OF CONGO SQUARE > APRIL 20 The city’s rich musical heritage and cultural traditions (brass bands, second-line parades, Mardi Gras Indians) are celebrated in this stage production, through music, dance and theater. Orpheum Theater, 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870

5 TREMÉ THREAUXDOWN > APRIL 28 Trombone Shorty and Orleans Avenue’s annual benefit concert, held during the first weekend of Jazzfest, has become as much of a mustsee as their close-out set at the Fair Grounds. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

ORPHEUM THEATER Apr. 21: LPO presents: “Purple Rain: The Music of Prince.” 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME Apr. 8: WrestleMania. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000 SAENGER THEATRE Apr. 6: John Cleese; Apr. 27: Queens of Stoneage. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Apr. 6: WWE Hall of Fame; Apr. 7: NXT Takeover; Apr. 9: WWE Monday Night RAW; Apr. 10: WWE Smackdown Live. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

(TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/FQFI; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©CAROL ROSEGG, 2017

APRIL 12-15 & 27-29:

JOY THEATER Apr. 5: Paul Heyman; Apr. 26-27: St. Paul & the Broken Bones; Apr. 28: As the Crow Flies; Apr. 29: Beats Antique. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569

where now New Orleans

The cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WalkingThrough New Orleans Music-minded tours of the town

Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

BY NORA MCGUNNIGLE

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

ROAM ALONE: SELFGUIDED JAZZ JAUNTS

Congo Square

(TOP, FROM LEFT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; ©SHAWN FINK; ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©CHERYL GERBER; (OPENING PAGE) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

n a city where slavery, racism and brothels helped give rise to jazz and incubated other genres, it can be a bit overwhelming trying to get the full story of New Orleans’ musical history. The city’s winding, thorny past has tendrils that connect its musical heritage to West Africa, Paris, Sicily and Chicago. Luckily there are a variety of lenses through which to view the city’s 300 years of music history. They’re found in the numerous guided music walking tours offered around town, which I recently sampled a varitety of. French Quarter Phantoms’ (p. 46) “Music of New Orleans Tour” starts on North Rampart Street, just across from Armstrong Park. My guide was Stella Salmen, a local musician who took us through the park, where we discussed Congo Square, where people of color would gather to drum, dance and sing in the late 1700s, and such music pioneers as Buddy Bolden, Louis Armstrong and Mahalia Jackson. Dipping into Tremé, the nation’s oldest AfricanAmerican neighborhood, we passed the home of drummer Shannon “King of Tremé” Powell, and learned about Ernie “Emperor of the Universe” K-Doe’s hit single “Mother-inLaw” (written by the prolific Allen Toussaint) and his music club of the same name (now owned by trumpeter Kermit

Armstrong Park

Ruffins). Salmen discussed Mardi Gras Indians and second-line traditions, before moving on to the soon-toreopen New Orleans African American Museum, historic St. Augustine Church and the Backstreet Cultural Museum. The tour ended back at Armstrong Park, across from the legendary J&M Studio, where everyone from Ray Charles and Fats Domino to Jerry Lee Lewis and Little Richard recorded. It’s now a laundromat with a little exhibit in the back by the dryers. New Orleans Music Tours’ (neworleansmusictours.com) “Music Gumbo” excursion kicked off in the French Quarter and ended at Armstrong Park. It also included a stop at the Basin Street Visitor Center, where the infamous Storyville redlight district (where many jazz greats, including Satchmo, performed) stood in the early 1900s. Guide Jeremy Habeggar went into detail regarding the local tradition of plaçage, which were common law marriages between European men and free women of color. Sons born from such unions would often be classically trained overseas then return home to become part of the fabric of the developing local music scene. Habeggar also talked about of the musical contributions of Sicilian immigrants and their descendents, such as “King of Swing” Louis Prima,

French Quarter Phantoms

Cosimo Matassa (of J&M fame) and Nick Larocca, leader of the Original Dixieland Jass Band. Discussing the origins of jazz, birthed in the brothels of Storyville, can be tricky business when traveling with kids. French Quartour Kids’ (p. 46) music tour two-steps around some of the more unsavory aspects of New Orleans music (and regular) history. Run by two retired teachers, the tours delve into the city’s sounds in a family friendly manner. “We’re going to be hauling ass across time, space and genre,” said guide Keith Abel of Abel Tours (abeltours. com). “In New Orleans, jazz is both a culture and a 100-year overnight success.” A born storyteller, Abel started his “Music & Heritage Tour” by recounting the story of the city’s founding while standing outside of the Louisiana Music Factory. Sharing the larger-than-life tales of local legends like early composer Louis Moreau Gottschalk, rhythm guitarist Danny Barker, clarinetist Pete Fountain and pianist Roy Byrd (aka Professor Longhair), Abel guided us through Jackson Square, past Preservation Hall and onto Bourbon Street. He even offered recommendations on what clubs to hit later on. “Three hundred years of music history in New Orleans is like an onion” added Abel. “The more you peel back, the sweeter it is...but the more you cry.”

While a professional tour guide is a valuable resource for learning about a city, sometimes you just want to go at your own pace. These days free, self-guided tours are easier than ever to access with a smartphone. The National Park Service’s New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park tour route and stop info can be found at jazz.toursphere.com. In addition to spots in and around the French Quarter, the tour includes the Jazz Walk of Fame along the Algiers Point levee, just off the ferry landing. Cross the Mississippi River from the French Quarter and check it out, while enjoying killer views of the city. The Algiers Historical Society offers two self-guided walking tours that really delve into the local jazz scene (algiershistoricalsociety.org/walking-tours). “Over Da River” and “Brooklyn of the South” both highlight a number of obscure spots in the city’s second-oldest neighborhood with step-by-step text and in-depth information about each of the 20-plus stops along the way. The New Orleans Historical Project’s “The Birthplace of Jazz: A Walking Tour Through New Orleans’ Musical Past” (neworleanshistorical.org/tours/show/88) features an interactive map highlighting 10 historically significant spots throughout the French Quarter and the Central Business District, including the Eagle Saloon, the Lyric Theater and the Tango Belt. In addition to detailed background information on each stop are clips of thematically appropriate music. Jazz Walk of Fame

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Sound Advice Four more music fests

NOLA CRAWFISH FESTIVAL Sandwiched between Jazzfest weekends, April 30-May 2, this fun fling combines two of New Orleans’ greatest passions—music and mudbugs. Jon Cleary, Tab Benoit and others perform, while festgoers pinch, slurp and sip on local brews. Central City BBQ, 1201 S. Rampart St.; nolacrawfishfest.com WEDNESDAY AT THE SQUARE Lafayette Square gets into the groove midweek with this free springtime concert series, which continues through May. Opening

Wednesday at the Square

acts begin at 5 pm, with headliners taking the stage at 6:30 pm. April 4: Sweet Crude; April 11: Flow Tribe; April 18: Wayne Toups; April 25: Big Sam’s Funky Nation. St. Charles Ave. and Lafayette St.; ylcnola.org JAZZ IN THE PARK This popular Thursday evening Armstrong Park throwdown plays it loose and easy with its lineup, pulling from the Tremé neighborhood’s wealth of homegrown talent. Kermit Ruffins, James Andrews, John Boutte: You never know who might pop up on stage, and that makes it all the more fun. The free fest kicks off its 13th season April 26 at 5 pm. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; pufap.org

PARTY LIKE IT’S 1718 The Picton Castle

OUT+ABOUT

The city’s 300th anniversary celebration continues in full force this month with a variety of tricentennial to-dos. In addition to the Historic New Orleans Collection’s “New Or-

Floating Options

leans, the Founding Era” and the Ogden Museum’s “Salazar:

Move over, Carnival, Norwegian and Royal Caribbean: A new fleet cruises into town April 19-22, when the Tall Ships® dock along Woldenberg Park. Hailing from the Netherlands and around the U.S., the six vessels offer free tours, along with fast-pass tickets for visitors who want to jump to the front of the line. An on-deck/dockside gala, featuring live entertainment, incredible edibles by leading local chefs and a massive fireworks display, takes place April 21. The event dovetails with NOLA Navy Week, April 23-29. The free, weeklong affair features ship visitations, a Navy Band concert at St. Louis Cathedral, a seafood cookoff, lectures at the Historic New Orleans Collection and, yes, even more fireworks. For details, visit tallshipsnola2018.com and Facebook.com/NolaNavyWeek.

Louisiana State Museum mounts “Recovered Memories:

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

Portraits of Influence in Spanish New Orleans” exhibits, the Spain, New Orleans and the American Revolution” April 20 at the Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place. Other events include an inter-faith prayer service at St. Louis Cathedral April 17, a gathering of international dignitaries at historic Gallier Hall April 20-22 and citywide “Family Reunion” block parties April 22, followed by fireworks. Did we mention the costumed dog parade? For a full lineup, visit “New Orleans, the Founding Era”

2018nola.com.

(TOP LEFT) ©TALL SHIPS® AMERICA; (TOP RIGHT) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NOCVB; (BOTTOM) ©HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE LOUISIANE It’s not every day you get to hear Tuvan throat singing. Francophone performers from 20-plus countries (Morocco, Gambia, Mali, the Republic of Congo) turn downtown Lafayette into a global musical melting pot April 25-29. festivalinternational.org

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans

(TOP) ©NAPOLEON HOUSE; (CENTER, LEFT) ©ZACK SMITH/NOCVB; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©ZACK SMITH/NOCVB

In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300). Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

Dancing Man 504 jumpstarting the French Quarter Festival second-line parade (April 12).

Getting lost amid M.S. Rau’s (p. 42) 28,000 square feet of rare antiquities.

Seeing how many types of hot sauce we can burn through on a Tabasco factory tour (p. 48).

4 5

Newcomb Art Museum’s (p. 52) signature Arts and Crafts pottery and Tiffany glass windows.

Long lines snaking out of Hansen’s (p. 29), signaling the start of snoball season. Chilling out between sets at Jazzfest with a walk through the misting tents.

Camellia Grill’s (p. 28) pecan waffles and bow-tied waiters.

Watching the streetcar pass while sipping mint juleps on the front porch of the Columns Hotel (p. 71).

Floating options at Queork (p. 34), where the goods are fashioned from cork.

Dancing in the middle of the street during French Quarter Fest.

Visiting France without ever leaving the city with a trip to Wirthmore Antiques (p. 42).

The statue of Ignatius Riley, the lead character in “A Confederacy of Dunces,” under the old D.H. Holmes clock (819 Canal Street).

Looking for the next big thing—and finding it—among the art and craft vendors at Jazzfest.

Setting off on NOLA Gondola glides (p. 47) around scenic City Park.

19 14

Listening to modern-day jazz in a century-old jazz landmark at the Little Gem Saloon (p. 55).

Roaming the Garden District when it’s in full springtime bloom.

Eating to the beat during the “World’s Largest Jazz Brunch” at French Quarter Fest.

21 22

Jazzfest-goer’s over-the-top head wear.

The “Tricentennial Moments” QR-code markers on local landmarks.

Dining alfresco in one of the French Quarter’s many restaurant courtyards.

Baroness Micaela Almonester Pontalba’s initials woven into the ironwork of the twin buildings she commissioned surrounding Jackson Square. Touro Synagogue’s annual Jazzfest Shabbat, this year featuring George Porter Jr. and the Runnin’ Pardners (April 27 at 7:30 pm).

Taking a Vieux Carré cocktail for a spin at the revolving Carousel Bar (p. 55). Setting a nightly table for the resident ghost at Muriel’s (p. 25).

Carrying open umbrellas on sunny days. 17

Orleans St. Roch Market

Hot Dish What’s new, notable and not to be missed. BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Owner Cheryl Scripter’s cakes, pastries and treats are outstanding, and there is no wrong order, trust us. On the savory side and with a bit more mealtime oomph, Scripter and her team also roll out bagels, breakfast sandwiches, brunch dishes (house-made biscuits topped with pulled pork and eggs, breakfast burritos, etc.) and “eye-openers” (read: coffee and cocktails). Two convenient locations mean double the deliciousness. 725 Magazine St.; 2381 St. Claude Ave. (in St. Roch Market); 504.523.2626

FOOD+DRINK

All-Day Cafés We saw it coming, but didn’t yet have a name for what food halls such as St. Roch Market would do for dining when it opened in 2015. The verdict and verbiage is now in: A big thumbs-up for all-day cafés, goto places where you can grab a meal any time of day. Today St. Roch Market (p. 27) has only a few of its original food operators (Elysian Seafood, Coast Roast Coffee). For the diner that’s a boon, an opportunity to try different cooking styles, dishes and drinks. From pastries and fresh-pressed juices to empanadas and crawfish mac-and-cheese to cocktails and a bevy of bivalves, St. Roch is busier and more popular than ever—or than anyone ever predicted. The Auction House (801 Magazine St., auctionhousemarket.com), a new food hall by the St. Roch folks in the Warehouse District, adds to this all-day dining environment with several second locations of existing vendors and new flavors like Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. Due to debut this month, Pythian Market (234 Loyola Ave., 504.605.0414) will open for breakfast through late-night cocktails. Among the 19 food and retail vendors, you’ll find

Central City BBQ, Ancora’s beloved pizza and salumi and Jamaican dishes from 14 Parishes. All-day cafés outside the foodhall frame are also growing in number. Cleo’s (p. 20), a popular Middle Eastern eatery, recently moved to a new location on Canal Street where falafel, baba ganoush, lamb kabobs and more are served 24/7. A second spot is slated for the French Quarter. Recently adding breakfast (bowls, toasts, smoothies) to its tropical-menu lunch and dinner offerings, Café Carmo (p. 20) now satisfies hungry appetites from 8 am to 10 pm. In Bywater, Paloma Café (p. 27) serves Latin-inspired food from 8 am to 11 pm. In the South Market District, The Daily Beet (p. 20) puts out excellent wild rice bowls, juices and lush-topped toasts from 8 am to 8 pm. All this food talk got you hungry? You’re in the right town…at the right time. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

ECHO’S Mere blocks off the Canal streetcar line, near the Lafitte Greenway, this new pizza joint’s menu has cool “Little Things,” like yacon (a sweet tuber) and yogurt, Gulf oysters in tomato sauce and, of course, killer pizza. With a chewy, fragrant crust that comes blistered and a bit charred (a good thing), the selections of toppings lean

simple—tomatoes, greens, sausages and mushrooms. Wine, beer and cocktails are available. 3200 Banks St., 504.267.3231 POKECHAN Finding its footing in the fashion of poke cafés that feature bowls of greens, rice, veg and fresh raw fish, at this pretty oasis-of-a-restaurant in the Bywater neighborhood there are also cooked food options. We’re hooked on the salt-flecked crunch of kaarage (fried chicken), cuts of tender teriyaki-swooshed unagi (eel) and the vegetarian “Savory ’Shroom.” Warm, silky tofu with ginger sauce for dessert? Get it. 2809 St. Claude Ave., 504.571.5446—LG

Poke-Chan

LAST BITE While we could wax poetic about the savory side of the menu at Maïs Arepas (p. 22), a hidden-gem Colombian café one block off of St. Charles Avenue, saving room for dessert is an imperative. Two standouts are always available: house-made flan with tangy passion fruit sauce and tres leche cake (shown), both of which are silky and stunning. Occasionally one of Maïs Arepas’ cooking team, Angela Osorio, a pastry chef in her own right, will whip up a special. Recently it was a divine passion fruit custard with passion fruit meringue kiss, mint sprig and spun-sugar garnish— a smart marriage of sweet, acidic, creamy and crunchy. Though the dessert special may change, rest assured, any way you finish a meal here is muy bueno. —LG

(TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NOCVB; (CENTER) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©LORIN GAUDIN

WHERE NOW New

the guide Morning Becomes Eclectic

Classic Act

Brunch has a long and delicious history in New Orleans. New to the brunch beat is Avo (p. 28), where chef Nick Lama puts an Italian twist on things with pesto deviled eggs, spaghetti alla carbonara (shown) and tiramisu pain perdu. Nab a balcony table at recently opened Curio (p. 23) and watch the day unfold, while munching on grit tots and black pepper biscuits with bacon gravy and fried egg. Or join Toups South’s (p. 22) monthly Counter Brunch Club (April 15) for bottomless mimosas and five courses of off-menu offerings, such as wilted-greens salad with chopped egg and confit chicken hearts, smoked lamb chilaquiles and sourdough biscuit churros.

New Orleans once again scored big among James Beard Award semifinalists, with 14 local restaurants and chefs garnering 2018 noms. While winners won’t be announced until May 7, Dong Phuong (p. 29), the Vietnamese bakery beloved for its French bread, was crowned one of “America’s Classics” by the Foundation in January.

Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space. Follow the lobster-andouille tamale with a lump crab-and-pickled mirliton salad then dive into broiled sea scallops with cheddar grits or a grilled whole redfish. $$$ D (nightly). www.briquettenola. com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich—a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork—and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 CLEO’S Mediterranean. Egyptian transplant Tarek

Madkour brings a taste of the Middle East to the CBD. Open 24/7, his café/convenience store offers an extensive selection of kabab sandwiches and plates, along with shwarma, fried kibby, stuffed grape leaves, falafel, salads and more. $ B, L, D (daily). 165 University Pl., 504.522.4504. Map 3, E3 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident

in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 THE DAILY BEETVegetarian. Light, healthy eats and

cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrialchic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an “Orbit” bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. $ B, L, D (daily). www.thedailybeetnola.com. 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, includ-

(LEFT) ©DENNY CULBERT/TOUPS SOUTH; (RIGHT) ©CHERYL GERBER

Dining April

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71. RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h. Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

Central City..................................................................................................22 French Quarter.........................................................................................23 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 26 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................26 Mid-City..........................................................................................................27 Uptown..........................................................................................................28 Other Locations......................................................................................29

ing barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 FLAMINGO AG0GO Eclectic. This sprawling

space features a massive patio, 35 taps pouring beer, wine and batched “flocktails” and latenight bites until 2 am. Tuck into poke bowls and flatbreads at lunch or go big with Hawaiian steak kabobs for dinner. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (SaSu). www.flamingonola.com. 869 Magazine St., 504.577.2202. Map 3, B6 HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine

dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip eatery puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta ex-

pands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James

is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa); check location hours. www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (daily). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter,

DINING

goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su). www. toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the country ham-wrapped rabbit leg. $$$ D (W-Su); Br (FSu). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. “Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining

spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as broiled black drum with rosemary-mustard crust and ginger-apple glaze. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle or satsuma and pepper-glazed shrimp. $$ L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 504.412.8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. $ B, L, D (daily). Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn takes the lo-

cal obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic

and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. $$ D (M-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (ThSa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. “Internationally in-

spired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with limeinfused slaw. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOODSeafood. Landry’s

locations fittingly offer sweeping views of the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5; 504.283.1010. Map 1, D1 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard. 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its

peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5

NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs and stuffed chicken wings. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as softshell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade. com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for a lingering brunch or afternoon tea. Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, L (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dan-

gle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolog-

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THE GUIDE

nese. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.sylvainnola. com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5 TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s

(“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.tujaguesrestaurant. com. 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Creole. Look for the giant cast-

iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as free-form crab ravioli and pan-seared Gulf fish with twice-cooked fingerlings and Vidalia onion beurre blanc. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Th-M). www.atchafalayarestaurant. com. 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix

traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2441 Orleans Ave., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily). www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restau26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

DINING

rant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 ELIZABETH’SAmerican. “Real food done real

good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.elizabeths-restaurant.com. 601 Gallier St., 504.944.92722. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PALOMA CAFÉ Latin. This cozy corner spot puts

out smart, Latin-inspired dishes. The eggs baked in spicy tomato sauce, chorizo-and-egg biscuits, mojo-roasted pork on fried green plantains and flan are all top picks. $ B, L, D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www.palomanola.com. 800 Louisa St., 504.304.3062. Map 1, E3 PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria

grew so popular that it now has its own brickand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelicious.com. 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 GABRIELLE Louisiana. Gabrielle’s post-Katrina

return to the local restaurant scene is a mostwelcome one. The menu reflects long-beloved dishes, such as slow-roasted duck, new recipes and a surprise or two, like braised rabbit with rose-petal

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THE GUIDE

syrup and Stilton cheese fries. $$ D (Tu-Sa). 2441 Orleans Ave., 504. 603.2344. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2

KRYSTAL CUSTOM BREAKFAST 3 EGG BREAKFAST & BEVERAGE

5.59

1000 FIGS Mediterranean. At this popular Mid-

City spot classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4

* Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness, especially if you have a medical condition.

AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOURCHERIE Louisiana. Looking for a great

off-the-beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www. bourcherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

CAMELLIA GRILL American. Say burger in New Or-

leans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind. Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city—that’s why. $ B, L, D (daily). 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (SaSu). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before devouring the turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

Riverside Dining

“Home of the Steamed Seafood Bucket”

SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino

Enjoy one of our filing seafood buckets

•Royal Bucket •Bourbon St. Combo (Boiled Shrimp & Snow Crab)

DEL FUEGO Mexican Chef David Wright and bar

gal Shannon Solomon’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during their travels to Mexico. House-made tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria.com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB

pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 HANSEN’S SNOBLIZ Dessert. SInce 1934 locals

504-569-3380 Certificate of Excellence winner.

www.thecrazylobster.com

Finish your Jazz Festival with drinks and dinner at our Spanish Plaza inside the restaurant on our patio.

have been lining up for Hansen’s signature snowballs. Topped with a huge assortment of made-from-scratch syrups, the shaved-ice treats are a summer must-have. www.snobliz.com. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788. Map 1, D4 LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery

doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). www.laboulangerienola.com. 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with

contemporary flare. Top picks include the pakoda choti, roti sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 TAL’S HUMMUS Mediterranean. Soft, spongy pita

fresh from the oven is a great vehicle for this Israeli restaurant’s creamy hummus, while the tendercrunchy falafel is extra delicious dragged through silky sesame tahini and beef kabobs are cooled by yogurt sauce. The baklava is sticky, nutty, decadence. $ L, D (daily). www.ordertalsonline.com. 4800 Magazine St., 504.267.73576. Map 1, D4

Other Locations THE APPETITE REPAIR SHOP Eclectic. From this

hard-to-find Algiers neighborhood hole in the wall, beloved chef Pete Vazquez serves up delicious—and deliciously healthy—prepared foods to go. Grab some chicken curry, chickpea salad and a few veggie samosas, then picnic along the nearby levee. $ D (Th-Su). 400 Vallette St., 504.602.9990. Map 3, H8 DONG PHUONG Vietnamese. The menu at this

“Little Vietnam” restaurant is crammed with pho, noodle dishes and all amnner of rice plates. But it’s the adjacent bakery that draws foodies from far and wide for what the New York Times has called the most authentic banh mi bread in the United States. $ Open 9 am-4 pm (W-M). www.dpbanhmi.com. 14207 Chef Menteur Hwy., 504.254.0214. Map 1, G1 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Mr. Smith Goes to Jazzfest

London Calling

From 1970 until his retirement in 2004, late local photographer Michael P. Smith attended every single New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, capturing lost music legends (Mahalia Jackson, Danny Barker, Ella Fitzgerald, James Booker, Fats Domino) and local culture on film. Prior to his passing in 2008, the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 50) acquired Smith’s massive archive of images, prints of which are now available for purchase in the Collection’s gift shop. You’ll also find Smith’s snapshots on everything from pillows and nightlights to magnets and buttons. While there, pick up a copy of “In the Spirit,” a beautifully produced career overview published by the Collection.

Put some spring into your step with a visit to Shoe Be Do (p. 36), where London-based designer Dan Sullivan’s Irregular Choice line of wedges and walking shoes (shown) mixes whimsy with wearable art. You’ll also find fab footwear from London’s Kat Maconie, whose candy-colored collection looks good enough to eat.

Clothing

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

BILLY REID Award-winning designer

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830. DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard

Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or

cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie.com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2

TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva. com. 829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4

THE PRALINE, that quintessential Crescent City souvenir, was created in 17th-century France as a digestive aide and named for French diplomat Cesar du Plessis-Praslin. 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

(LEFT) ©HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; (RIGHT) ©SHOE BE DO

Books & Music

ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

HAPPY FEST!

...yes, they are vinyl, as in LPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.... PLAY ON!!! INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE.

SPEXWAX, handmade in California

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 30

Clothing........................................................................................................ 30 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 30 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 33 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 33 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 34 Home & Garden.................................................................................... 34 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 35 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 36 Shoes............................................................................................................... 36 Special Services...................................................................................... 36

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222

DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 HUNDRED ACREAt this friendly design studio

and shop the well-curated stock runs the gamut, from New Orleans-themed collectibles and fun gift items to cool jewelry and home accents. www. hundredacredesign.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 101, 504.313.3050. Map 3, G5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Where do you want to go? Find the best of the city

SHOPPING

home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-to-ceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, boozes and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 4500 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.7910.; 400 N. Carrollton Ave, 504.488.2129. SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568. WINE. Map 3, F4

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 33

THE GUIDE

and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4

QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2525. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME“The oldest perfumer

books, toys, gifts & apparel

nola kids

THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious spa

features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3

St. a r tre s 333 Ch 6.134 0 5 0 4.56 aily Open d

TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Home & Garden

D A C

AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the con-

cept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls. 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

www.facebook.com/nolakids

FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

in the South” lives on thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO AND GALLERY A short ferry ride across the Mississippi River to historic Algiers Point affords a rare opportunity to see masters of glassblowing working at their craft.

One of the largest glass galleries in the South. We have the largest selection of locallymade glass in New Orleans New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival Weekend #1 ONLY! April 27-29 Contemporary Crafts Section

SHOPPING

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. www.shoprouxroyale.com. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

Or visit us online www.rosetreegallery.com 15% off website prices Enter: where18 at checkout

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

446 Vallette St., New Orleans, LA 70114 504.366.3602 • 888.ROSETREE (767.3873) Studio hours M-F 10:00-4:00; Saturdays call for appointment

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4

New collection, colorful stones! Starting at only $159

635 St. Peter St. ı 504.529.3001 w w w . b i j o u n o l a . c o m

GO >

MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Alex Sepkus Trunk Show

738 Royal St, New Orleans Saturday, April 7 (10am-6pm) • Sunday, April 8 (10am-2pm)

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

Visit the new website from Where Magazine.

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5 738 Royal Street, French Quarter 504.475.5906 www.TheGivingTreeGallery.com

WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

mid-century modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4

Malls/Major Retailers A

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Toys • Boxes • Games •

THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

B F

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood • Clocks • Puzzles • Office

stop for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Michael Kors and Microsoft. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

Shoes CHARLESTON SHOE CO.This national retailer’s

“cobblestones to cocktails shoe” designs are NO-WM_140400_IdeaFactory.indd 1 the perfect fit for on-the-go women who want to stay comfortable and stylish all day long. www. charlestonshoeco.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 102, 855.996.7462. Map 3, G5; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 855.996.7463. Map 3, E5

3/10/14 11:24:10 AM

GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services ELECTRIC LADYLAND Looking for a lasting souve-

nir? This popular tattoo parlor draws locals, tourists and visiting celebrities with its award-winning artists and large selection of designs. Custom creations and body piercing are also offered, along with laser removal services. electricladylandtattoo. com. 610 Frenchmen St., 504.947.8286. Map 3, J5

C D

PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

An Eye for Music

Black Powered

That guy with the camera and the all-access French Quarter Fest pass? That’s Zack Smith (p. 42), the festival’s official photographer, who over the years has perfected the art of capturing music—and musicians—on film. You can too by signing up for Smith’s April 11 French Quarter Festival Workshop. The hands-on, six-hour session, open to shutterbugs of all skill levels, offers instruction and insight on how best to snap that perfect shot. Smith’s own portraits of musicians (Lil Wayne, Al Green, Clarence “Gatemouth” Brown) are available for purchase at his studio, along with fine art prints that focus on local customs, landscapes and icons.

The Stella Jones Gallery (p. 37) celebrates New Orleans’ tricentennial with “Made Louisiana,” a group exhibition of 50 artists that explores the role of African-Americans in the city’s evolution. From early slavery to the Black Lives Matter movement, the exhibit charts 300 years of contributions that have helped make New Orleans what is today.

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com. 440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 (LEFT) ©ZACK SMITH/FQFI; (RIGHT) ©STELLA JONES GALLERY

BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contempo-

rary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are

among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Con-

temporary is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery. com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’

studio features free demos by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver.Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. www.neworleansglassworks. com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings, sculpture and photography. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond

Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars.

TERRANCE OSBORNE, who created this year’s Jazzfest poster of Fats Domino, also produced 2012’s print of Trombone Shorty and 2014’s of the Preservation Hall Jazz Band. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 37

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 37 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................42 Collectives.....................................................................................................42 Other Locations.......................................................................................43

www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted at this off-the-beaten-path gallery. Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film. Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 CREASON’S FINE ART GALLERY Here, artist-owner

Greg Creason’s vibrant “modern art with a traditional flair” shares wall space with with contemporary works by Darrell George, Tracy Jarmon, Mary Pat Wallen and others. www.creasonsfineart.com. 831 Chartres St., 504.345.2243. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

THE GUIDE

THE HIS TORIC NE W ORLE ANS COLLEC TION PRESENTS

carries French antique furniture from the 18th- and 19th-centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4

ew Orleans

THE FOUNDING ERA A free exhibition on view through May 27, 2018 533 Royal Street in the French Quarter A bilingual catalog is available for purchase. Explore the kaleidoscopic array of cultures that gave rise to one of North America’s most diverse cities. Rare artifacts, early maps and plans, archaeological finds, and visual art from THNOC’s holdings and from institutions across Europe and North America come together to tell the stories of New Orleans’s early days.

GRAPHITE GALLERYSeeking something cutting-

edge and cool? This is the place. Works by emerging and mid-career artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw at this contemporary space, which also features upand-coming local talents. www.graphitenola.com. 936 Royal St., 504.565.3739. Map 3, H4

This exhibition is made possible with support from these sponsors.

HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4

www.hnoc.org |(504) 523-4662

THNOC.FE.Where April.1pp.indd 1

2/22/18 10:17 AM

HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. Map 3, F4

OPEN DAILY 11-7

IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4

FEBRUARY 21 – MAY 28, 2018 A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes is developed by Barrett Barrera Projects and MUSEEA, toured internationally by Flying Fish. Presentation at NOMA is sponsored by the Eugenie and Joseph Jones Family Foundation. Additional support provided by Ashley Longshore, Joseph: A Women’s Fashion Boutique, and Millie Davis Kohn.

KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th

Sarah Burton/Alexander McQueen, white floral platform heels, Spring/Summer 2011. Courtesy of Barrett Barrera Projects & RKL consulting. Photo Sarah Carmody.

40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8 49-0118 A Queen Within Where Magazine Ad.indd 1

2/1/18 2:43 PM

THE GUIDE

centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map3, F4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www.neworleanssilversmiths. com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered, along with live-painting event services. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SCENE BY RHYS“New Orleans music inked into

art,” is the adage of artist Emilie Rhys, who you’ll likely spot sketching away in a local club. Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. www.scenebyrhys.com. 708 Toulouse St., 504.258.5842. Map3, G4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.” Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one. Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 B.FOS GALLERY“I gather inspiration from all

corners of this wild, beautiful and colorful city,” says local artist Becky Fos, which is reflected in her vibrant oil works. Using her palette and fingers, Fos captures everything from pelicans and crawfish to musicians and Carnival parades. www.beckyfos. com. 2138 Magazine St., 504.544.2967. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local

and national artists such as Jere Allen, Karen Jacobs and Elliot Snellings, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. www. carolrobinsongallery.com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4

COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 GUTHRIE CONTEMPORARY GALLERY Paintings,

photography and sculpture by both national and international artists is the focus here. www. guthriecontemporary.com. 3815 Magazine St., 504.897.2688. Map 1, D4 NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE GALLERY This

photography collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www. neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 St. Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 STUDIO SOLITARIO Monet, Hopper, Sargent:

Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies. Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4 ZACK SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIO If you’ve

ever attended the French Quarter Festival, chances are you’ve spotted Smith and his camera standing out from the crowd. Prints of his fine art images are offered, in addition to photography workshops. www.zacksmith.com. 4514 Magazine St., 504.251.7745. Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for

undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 GREAT ARTISTS COLLECTIVE Works by more than

20 local artists, who dabble in everything from glass-blowing and textile-making to photography and jewelry, are showcased at this French Quarter collective. www.greatartistscollective.com. 815 Royal St., 504.525.8190. Map 3, H4 JACKSON SQUARE ART COLLECTIVE For more than

five decades, artists have been gathering around Jackson Square’s black iron fence, exposing their art to the public and the public to their art. One of the oldest active art colonies in the nation, the collective counts numerous artists displaying their works daily. www.jackson-square.com. Map 3, G5 LA GUILDThis showcase of juried craft artisans

from around the state and region features works in a wide range of media, from glass and wood to metal and clay. www.louisianacrafts.org. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.592.7633. Map 3, E5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Sun–Wed: 10–6 | Thu–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis after-dark art mart

takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art and photography, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.717.0750. Map 3, J5

Put the power of Where in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android. ®

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

BILLY SOLITARIO F INE A RT 4531 Magazine St. New Orleans, LA 70115 504-905-4175 billysolitario.com @billysolitarioart

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 STUDIO BE Breakout local artist Brandan Odums’

giant graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of pivitol players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. www.ephemeraleternal.com. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3 WHERE Y’ART Love New Orleans art but don’t

have time to fully explore all of the city’s many galleries? Along with a brick-and-mortar space in the Marigny neighborhood, this local incubator offers a 24/7 virtual gallery featuring more than 100 area artists. www.whereyart.net. 1901 Royal St., 504.325.5672. Map 3, J4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 43

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Ready to Rumble

Little Big Town

When WrestleMania pulled into the Mercedes-Benz Superdome (p. 45) in 2014, it brought with it more than 75,000 World Wrestling Entertainment fans. WrestleMania 34 promises to be just as rowdy. The fun kicks off April 5 with the Axxess Sessions’ Superstars meetand-greet at the Convention Center, followed by the Hall of Fame April 6 at the Smoothie King Center (p. 46), where NXT Takeover takes place April 7. The 34th annual “Showcase of the Immortals” pairs 2017 champ AJ Styles against Shinsuke Nakamura at the Dome April 8, while Jon Sena and others take part in Monday Night Raw April 9 and SmackDown Live April 10. For tickets and details, visit wwe.com/wwe-wrestlemania-34.

Short on space, Treme’s Petit Jazz Museum (1500 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.715.0332) is big on local music history, thanks to curator Al Jackson, who has made it his mission to preserve the neighborhood’s jazz legacy. Jackson’s collection includes archival materials, such as performance contracts for Louis Armstrong, Fats Domino and others.

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninsti-

tute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4 AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of

the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number of her works there. Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night. CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew

Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, explore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax under the park’s live oaks. www.nps.gov/ jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE 9 This state-of-the-art

movie theater offers nine separate screens, along

with in-seat dining from its in-house café and bar. www.thetheatres.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5

CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the

city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking paths and picnic areas. www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live,

interactive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. Reservations required. www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5

NEW ORLEANS MUSICIANS have racked up more than 200 Grammy nominations over the years; in January, the Meters were named Lifetime Achievement awardees. 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

(LEFT) ©WORLD WRESTLING ENTERTAINMENT; (RIGHT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

Attractions & Landmarks

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

GLOBAL WILDLIFE CENTER This free-roaming wild-

PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

life preserve, the nation’s largest, is home to more than 3,000 exotic animals and endangered animals from around the globe. Guided tours are offered daily; call for hours. $17 adults, $ 15 seniors, $11 children, kids under 2 free. www.globalwildlife.com. 26389 LA-40, Folsom, La., 985.796.3585 Map 2, F1 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected

wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882. LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-

trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. . Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS BOTANICAL & TRAIN GARDENS

City Park’s beautiful Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 tropical and subtropical plants, along with the Enrique Alférez Sculpture Garden and the Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit with landmarks constructed of botanical matter. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm; train garden, weekends only. $6 adults, $3 children. www.neworleanscitypark.com. Victory Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE In

EST. 1933. LOCALLY OWNED WWW.PATOBRIENS.COM

operation since 1872, this ranks as the nation’s third-oldest Thoroughbred race course. The site serves as home base for the annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. www. fairgroundsracecourse.com. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., 504.944.5515. Map 1, D2 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

THE GUIDE

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................44

Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................46 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 48 Performing Arts ............................................................................ 52 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 54 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 55

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE CENTER Housed

in a former funeral home, this facility breathes new life into New Orleans jazz with seven classrooms providing instruction to local musicians, recordings studios and a state-of-the-art performance space. www.jazzandheritagecenter.org. 1205 N. Rampart St., 504.558.6100. 504.558.6100.. Map 3, G3 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MARKET Part concert hall/

coffee shop/community center, this multifaceted facility throws the spotlight on both the city’s jazz legends and rising stars. phnojm.org. 1436 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.371.5849. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com. 524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 NOLA MOTORSPORTS PARK Racing fans, start your

engines. This state-of-the-art facility offers car and motorcycle tracks geared for both competitive and recreational use, along with kart rentals and racing. www.nolamotor.com. 11075 Nicolle Blvd., Avondale, 504.302.4875. OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately

red-brick townhouses flanking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 PORT OF NEW ORLEANS More than a million pas-

sengers pass through the Crescent City’s cruise terminal each year, making it one of the most 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

popular destinations in the nation to embark/ disembark. www.portno.com. 1350 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.2551. Map 3, D8 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours A BICYCLE NAMED DESIRE Located at the address

of Stanley and Stella Kowalski’s fictional residence, this bike shop (an offshoot of Confederacy of Cruisers) provides “rentals for the independent traveler.” Half, full, multi-day and weekly rates are offered. www.abicyclenameddesire.com. 632 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.345.8966. Map 3, J5 AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CAJUN ENCOUNTERS Daily tours for both large

and small groups are offered, along with hotel pickups and drop-offs. Call for times, prices and reservations. Honey Island Swamp Tour –2 hours City Cemeteries Tour –2 hours Oak Alley and Laura Plantation Tour –6.5 hours www. cajunencounters.com. 55345 Highway 90, Slidell, 504.834.1770. Map 2, G1 CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. www.canoeandtrail.com. 504.233.0686. CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The mak-

ers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the United States—M-F (noon, 2 and 4 pm) and Sa-Su (2 and 4 pm). Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s awardwinning spirits. Reservations recommended. Grab a cab. $10; 21+ only. www.oldneworleansrum.com. 2815 Frenchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden

District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings. Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115. CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DESTINATION KITCHENThese deliciously fun tours

provide a real taste of New Orleans. A variety of culinary and cocktail excursions are offered, along with French Quarter and Garden District walking tours. Custom outings are also available. www. destination-kitchen.com. 885.353.6634. DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280. FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These guided walks

take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Tours offered daily and by appointment; check website for current schedule. Call for reservations and locations. www.frenchquartourkids.com. 504.975.5355. FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev.

Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and 7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727. JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National

Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily (except Christmas and Mardi Gras). Tickets are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 KAYAKITIYAT Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou

St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. $40/two hours; $65/four hours. Tours of Bayou Bienvenue are also featured; $70. www. kayakitiyat.com. (Bayou St. John tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2 LAFITTE’S BARATARIA MUSEUM & WETLAND TRACE Charting the 200-year backstory of the

town of Jean Lafitte, this museum explores the fishing village’s history and pirate lore through a variety of multimedia exhibits while also examining the effects of coastal erosion. A nature trail leads visitors through a mile and a half of cypress swamp. $12 adults, $6 children. www.townofjeanlafitte.com. 4917 City Park Dr., 504.689.7009.

NEW ORLEANS ELECTRIC CARSToo hot to hoof it

on foot? Tool around in one of these cool rentals instead. The easy-to-operate, all-electric vehicles seat up to six passengers. www.neworleanselectriccars.com. 235 Basin St., 504.274.2555. Map 3, F2 NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 NOLA GONDOLA A romantic retreat in the heart

of the city. Board the Bella Mae, an authentic Venetian gondola, for a guided glide through City Park’s Big Lake and moss-draped lagoons. Tours are 50 minutes and can accommodate up to six. $90/couple; $10 per additional passenger. www.nolagondola.com. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.450.4400. Map 1, D2 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and Su at 10 am from Basin Street

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THE GUIDE

Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www. saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377. STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions

offer a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily. www.vipcitytours.com. 701 Canal St., 504.329.2489. Map 3, E4 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required. All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm. For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040. WHEEL FUN RENTALS This company offers a

variety of ways to explore City Park. Surrey, chopper, cruiser and tandem bikes are among the many cycles available for hourly rentals, in addition to kayaks, pedal boats, paddle boards and more. Open daily at 10 am. www.wheelfunrenatals.com. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289. Map 1, D2

Museums & Exhibits ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE This one requires a car,

but is well worth the price of a rental for outsider art fans. Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric sendup of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. $3 (free 3 and under). Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. www. abitamysteryhouse.com. 22275 Hwy. 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1 AMERICAN ITALIAN MUSEUM This cultural center

pays tribute to the history and contributions of Italian-Americans in Louisiana and the Southeast through a variety of exhibits. $8 adults, $5 seniors/ students, free ages 11 and under. Open M-F, 10 am-4 pm. www.americanitalianculturalcenter.com. 537 S. Peters St., 504.522.7294. Map 3, D6 BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and 48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

THE GUIDE

novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/ students, $7.50 active military, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grandniece, are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment. $29. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www.arnauds. com/about/mardi-gras-museum. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores

the history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open W-Su, 1-4 pm, and by appointment. $15 adults, $12 students/groups. 50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

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www.lemuseedefpc.com. 2236 Esplanade Ave., 504.914.5401. Map 1, D3 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated a

National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore. Guided tours available daily. $12 adults, $10 seniors, $8 students 11 and older, $5 children, 2 and under and active military with ID free. Open M-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Road, 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.523.1357. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.” 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Free. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968. NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

– 1941 – 1945

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6

Higgins built the boat to win The War. With the United States on the cusp of WWII, the military needed a better way to land troops on enemy shores. Andrew Higgins, a New Orleans shipbuilder with a history of helping trappers, oil-drillers, and bootleggers navigate shallow waterways had just the thing. Over a four-year-period, Higgins Industries built 20,094 boats for the Allied war effort, the most notable being the PT

boats as well as the landing craft which allowed troops to storm over an open beach. President Eisenhower declared Andrew Higgins “the man who won the war for us.” Today, the National WWII Museum stands in New Orleans as a testament to this accomplishment. Visit New Orleans and start your story with #OneTimeInNOLA.

OneTimeInNOLA.com

NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings are also offered. $7 adults, $5.50 college students/seniors, $3.50 children (free under 5). Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

THE GUIDE

noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic

Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ second mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $7 children, free ages 6 and under. www.louisianalandmarks.org. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2 PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is

an essential stop for lovers of local architecture, and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. www.prcno.org. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7

Savor the aromas of TABASCO® on a factory tour.

SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Savor the aromas of TABASCO® on a factory tour.

Performing Arts CIVIC THEATRE New Orleans’ oldest theater, dat-

ing to 1906, has hosted everything from vaudeville shows to discos. Shuttered during the 1990s, the 1,200-seat venue received a $10 million overhaul in 2013, and now features concerts by top national touring acts. www.civicnola.com. 510 O’Keefe Ave., 504.272.0865. Map 3, C4 JOY THEATERThis former 1940s movie palace has

LE PETIT THÉÂTRE DU VIEUX CARRÉ This historic

space houses one the longest-running community playhouses in the United States. Step into the adjacent Tableau restaurant for pre- and post-theater cocktails. www.lepetittheatre.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081. Map 3, G4

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Come to Avery Island for an experience that will delight your senses!

Experience

AVERY ISLAND

LOUISIANA

been revamped as a multi-use facility for musical, comedy and theatrical productions, as well as a space for special events. www.thejoytheater.com. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569. Map 1, D2

Feast on the Southern ﬂavors of our new cafeteria-style restaurant, 1868!

Open Mon-Sun, 9am-4pm | www.TABASCO.com or 1-800-634-9599 ©2016. The TABASCO® marks, bottle, and label designs are registered trademarks and servicemarks exclusively of McIlhenny Company, Avery Island, LA 70513.

THE GUIDE

MAHALIA JACKSON THEATRE FOR THE PERFORM ING ARTS This 2,100 seat theater, located in sce-

nic Armstrong Park, received a multimillion-dollar, post-Katrina overhaul. The state-of-the-art venue is home to performances by the New Orleans Opera and the New Orleans Ballet, as well as national touring acts. www.mahaliajacksontheatre.com. 801 N. Rampart St., 504.525.1052. Map 3, H2 ORPHEUM THEATER Reopened following a floor-

to-ceiling renovation, this jaw-dropping 1,500 seat theater (home of the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra) features two balcony levels, VIP box seating and six bars—some located in the stairwells. www.orpheumnola.com. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4871. Map 3, E3 SAENGER THEATREThis circa-1927 baroque

beauty plays host to the popular Broadway Across America series, in addition to major music and comedy acts. www.saengernola.com. 1111 Canal St., 504.287.0351. Map 3, E3

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 ATTIKI This hookah bar offers an exotic getaway

without ever leaving the French Quarter. Order an arak (a traditional Middle Eastern anise-flavored cocktail), load the hookah and check out the belly dancers. www.attikineworleans.com. 230 Decatur St., 504.587.3756. Map 3, F5 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www. theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BAR TONIQUE This sleek boite brings a welcome

air of sophistication to North Rampart Street. Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails. www.bartonique.com. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry? Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com. 601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to

Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. Candles and string lights illuminate walls of repurposed tin roofing; dig the stuffed bobcat. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St. 504.299.1888 Map 3, A7 BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide

beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. www.bayoubeergarden.com. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Pkwy., 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards 54 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 018

are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at

this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 50-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. www.draftfreak.com. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for

the small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St.. Map 3, A7

OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 OLD POINT BAR Located in Algiers Point (a

quick ferry ride from the French Quarter), the Old Point Bar is on the levee of the Mississippi River. Local musicians abound—both on stage and in the audience. Hip local crowd; no attitude. www.oldpointbar.com. 545 Patterson Dr., 504.364.0950. Map 3, G8 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

brewpub. Microbrews, nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4

CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

R BAR This unpretentious Faubourg Marigny

watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut—and a shot. www.royalstreetinn.com. 1431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4 RICK’S CABARET This recently revamped

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3

18,000-sq.-ft. venue—named one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy—offers three floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick.com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4

F&M PATIO BAR With its jumpin’ jukebox, massive

RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

outdoor area and affordable drinks, this local legend draws a large collegiate crowd and loyal late-nighters. www.fandmpatiobar.com. 4841 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.895.6784. Map 1, D4 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play—

the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers. The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft, each kept at a cool 32 degrees. www.ricks-saloon.com/. 522 Bourbon St., 504.552.2510. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 SECOND LINE BREWING Housed in a repurposed

industrial space, this brewery brings hoppy goodness to the Mid-City neighborhood. Flagship ales, growlers and test brews, as well as a rotating cast of food trucks, can be found in its outdoor beer garden Th-Su. www.secondlinebrewing.com. 433 N Bernadotte St., 504.248.8979. Map 1, D2 TIKI TOLTECA A bit of the tropics on the edge of

the French Quarter. Totems and coconut heads grace the bar, which serves up mai tais, zombies and flaming Escorpion Punch W-M nights. www. tikitolteca.com. 301 N. Decatur St. (inside Felipe’s), 504.267.4406. Map 3, F5 URBAN SOUTH BREWING Housed in a 19th-century

warehouse, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” Its kid-friendly taproom (yes, you read right) features a variety of brews crafted on site.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

www.urbansouthbrewery.com. 1645 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.67.4852. Map 1, E4

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BALCONY MUSIC CLUB Visitors in search of a

“regular” kind of local hangout need look no further than this low-key French Quarter venue, which boasts two bars, great draft beer, pool, darts and nightly live music. 1331 Decatur St., 504.599.7770. Map 3, I5 BAMBOULA’SAnchoring Frenchmen Street, this

full-service restaurant and bar also serves up great live music. The nightly roster runs the gamut, from jazz and blues to swing and brass bands. www. bamboulasnola.com. 504.944.8461. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-

pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and the island-themed atmosphere sets a mellow vibe. While the dance floor fills up, the open kitchen turns out tacos, burritos and quesadillas. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.944.4744. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. The recently revamped venue now features live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone. com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3 CIRCLE BAR This tiny Lee Circle bar draws a loyal

crowd of neighborhood night crawlers, habitual hipsters and tourists looking for a slice of local life. Great jukebox; live music starts around 10 pm. www.circlebarnola.com. 1032 St. Charles Ave., 504.588.2616. Map 3, B6 COLUMNS BAR This stately Victorian on St. Charles

Avenue is a choice hangout for Uptowners. Watch the streetcar roll past while sipping a cocktail on the front porch, or relax in the 19th-century splendor of the indoor bar. Live music nightly. www.thecolumns.com. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with enter-

tainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 FRITZEL’S EUROPEAN JAZZ PUB A German jazz

club? Only in New Orleans. Traditional jazz by local musicians as well as visiting European bands is featured nightly. www.fritzelsjazz.net. 733 Bourbon St., 504.586.4800. Map 3, H4 GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film

screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. A rotating cast of food trucks are available and restaurants are within walking distance. www.gasagasa.com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3 HIHO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. But thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever. Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated

club features low cover charges and low attitude. Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LE BON TEMPS ROULÉ A great Uptown hangout,

featuring imported beers and casual dining (free oysters on Fridays, in season). Live music is performed on the stage they call the “House of Dues.” 4801 Magazine St., 504.897.3448. Map 1, D4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene. The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAISON This Frenchmen Street club offers a

full-service restaurant, two floors, three bars, an interior wraparound balcony and nightly live entertainment, ranging from jazz to R&B to hip-hop. www.maisonfrenchmen.com. 508 Frenchmen St., 504.371.5543. Map 3, J5 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Make your own kind of music

at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind venue also hosts live performances. Check website for current lineup. www.musicboxvillage.com. 4557 N. Rampart St.. Map 1, E3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 55

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. Nightly performances at 5, 6, 8, 9 and 10 pm. Inquire about “Big Shot” seats. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Check out swing night on Wednesdays. Highly recommended. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

10AM UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun National WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

We have DIRECTV NFL Sunday Ticket Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

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Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s is where the

late great Professor Longhair used to play. The venerable music club offers an eclectic, alwaysentertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 VAUGHAN’S LOUNGE This tumbledown dive

deep in the Bywater neighborhood gets jampacked during its Thursday night jam sessions. Well worth the price of a cab. 800 Lesseps St., 504.947.5562. Map 1, E3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 57

THE GUIDE

Navigate Something Borrowed, Something Blue

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street. SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you. DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can. SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars. PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency. CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels. Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID). ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car. Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie. BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNAIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019. 58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

©JASON COHEN

How best to navigate around New Orleans and squeeze in a little exercise at the same time? On one of the 700-plus Blue Bikes that recently hit the streets. The city’s new municipal bicycle-sharing program, in partnership with Blue Cross/ Blue Shield of Louisiana (hence their color), offers an easy alternative to Uber with dozens of rental/drop-off stations stretching from the French Quarter to City Park and between the Bywater and Garden District neighborhoods. Riders register on the Blue Bikes website or app, where they receive account and pin numbers needed to unlock the bikes, which rent for $8 an hour and can be dropped off at any rack station citywide. For additional information and a map of locations, visit bluebikesnola.com…and get rolling.

N A V I G AT E

Index General Information........................................................................... 58 Nearby Destinations............................................................................59 Cajun Country...........................................................................................59 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 59 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 59 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................59 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................59 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 59 Transportation ....................................................................................... 58

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater. Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102). WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by

Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district. Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-

ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego. English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org. JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes. Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net. ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com. TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

KILLER POBOYS

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S. RAMPART

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UNIVE RSITY PL.

E EEF

400 CONTI

BIENVILLE

LA YO LO

300

TOULOUSE

N. RAMPART

200

500

BURGUNDY

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IBERVILLE

Louisiana Superdome

BARO NNE

)1 DAUPHINE HermannGrima House

Bienville

Canal MP CA

ZIN

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CHARTRES

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Vieux Carré Police Station

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BOURBON

TC NA

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EXCHANGE ALLEY

)7 )8

COMM

Toulouse

ST. CHARLES

VIER GRA

Dumaine

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Ursulines

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The Fragrance Worn By John F. Kennedy

Esplanade

RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS

CANAL

CARONDELET

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Harrah’s Casino

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Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

ON RFR Steam RIVE Gray Line Tour Natch Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park

DINNER: Mon-Sat 5:30-10:00 416 Chartres St, New Orleans Reservations: 504.596.2530

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FRENCH QUARTER KERLEREC

ST .A N TH O N Y

BURGUNDY

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

BARRACKS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILIP

ST. ANN

DUMAINE

800

ORLEANS

ST. PETER

RAMPART

700

1000

600

GOV. NICHOLLS

Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

PA U G ER

900

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BOURBON

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Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

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Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

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Harrah's Casino Riverwalk

Creole Queen

TCAR TREE NT S RFRO RIVE Natchez Steamboat Gray Line Tour Departures

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Canal Place Shopping Centre

Aquarium of the Americas Algiers 6 Ferry

Entergy IMAX Theatre

Jackson Brewery

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BURGUNDY

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Between parts of Magazine Street and St. Charles Avenue lies the Garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of New Orleans’ neighborhoods. The Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available.

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3 2 1

THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Ready for Their Close-Ups With their centuries-old oaks, ornate architecture and period-perfect furnishings, Louisiana’s plantations are a Hollywood location scout’s dream. Visit Houmas House, and you’ll see pictures of Bette Davis adorning the bedroom she stayed in while shooting 1964’s “Hush… Hush, Sweet Charlotte,” which also filmed at picturesque Oak Alley (shown), which you’ll recognize from its star turns in everything from 1984’s “Interview With the Vampire” to Beyoncé’s 2006 “Déjà Vu” video. “Vampire” also shot at Destrehan, along with “12 Years a Slave.” Scenes from “Slave” were likewise filmed at St. Joseph, which was the setting for 2016’s remake of “Roots” and 2017’s “Mudbound.” Other starring roles include Evergreen (“Django Unchained”), Nottoway (“The Magnificent Seven”) and Felicity (“The Skeleton Key”).

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under. Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation. Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org. 4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837. HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available. by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property. Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org. 985.369.7151. 406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553. NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg. 12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under. Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain. 66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details. This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com. 3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773. BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast. Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312. COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 67

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings. B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674. GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475. MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277. NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739. ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332. RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 68 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451. THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921. Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236.. GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463. LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite? Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience. Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

MAP 1 NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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Lafayette

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Lake Maurepas 55

Laplace

New Iberia

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Franklin 182 82

Metairie

Houma

Kenner

Lafitte

Raceland

New Orleans

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Covington Abita Springs 22 Mandeville

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THE GUIDE

MAP 3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

Mercedes-Benz Superdome

Smoothie King Center

N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater Champions Square

Rampart Streetcar Line

Orpheum Theater

Cancer Survivors Park

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Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

70 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine. Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination. H

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

and streetcars as much as you’d like.

K w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 71

[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Outdoor Lovers

Music Fans

Family Travelers

The confines of travel can often make it feel as though the world is boxing you in. The solution: Unpack, unwind, get out and get active. As one the nation’s most bike-friendly cities, New Orleans has seen a recent boom in two-wheel vendors. (1) Confederacy of Cruisers is among of the most popular, offering guided rides and rentals, as well as cocktail and culinary outings. Surrey with the fringe on top more your speed? (2) Wheel Fun Rentals provides single and double surreys for exploring City Park, along with cruisers and tandem bikes, kayaks, pedal boats and canoes. (3) Canoe & Trail Adventures launches daily, ecoconscious excursions along Cane Bayou that travel through swamp and marshlands then dip into Lake Pontchartrain.

A little live music with your mimosa and eggs Benedict? The concept of the weekend jazz brunch originated at (1) Commander’s Palace, where it’s been perfected to an edible art form. Sing the praises of chef Tory McPhail, while the Joe Simon Jazz Trio roams table-totable. Home to the popular Jazz in the Park concert series, (2) Armstrong Park is also home to Congo Square, where jazz is said to have first germinated, hence the statues of Armstrong and other musical giants populating the park. (3) Louisiana Music Factory claims the world’s largest selection of New Orleans recordings. New, used, CDs, DVDs, vinyl— you name it, they have it. Rummage the racks while taking in live, in-store performances on Saturday afternoons.

From Storyland, a fairy tale-themed playground populated by children’s book characters, to City Putt, a miniature golf course with local history lessons at each hole, there’s a lot to keep kids active in (1) City Park. Go a few rounds on the century-old carousel. Spread over 900 acres in nearby Folsom, the (2) Global Wildlife Center offers safari tours in customized covered wagons, from which groups feed antelope, bison, camel, giraffe, zebra and more, while learning the importance of conservation. Jill Dresser takes children on a time-travel journey back to the 1800s with her (3) French Quartour Kids walks. Outfitted in vintage undergarments, the former teacher brings history to life, while providing parents with a mini vacation of their own.

72 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2018

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES; (CENTER) ©COMMANDER'S PALACE; ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©NEW ORLEANS CITY PARK; ©ST. TAMMANY PARISH TOURISM COMMISSION; ©SHAWN FINK

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS