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What the Sugar Bowl Means to New Orleans From the first Sugar Bowl in 1935 through this year’s 85th Allstate Sugar Bowl Classic, the goal of the event has remained the same – to create the best game possible. Over its storied history, 49 Hall of Fame coaches have stalked the sidelines of the Sugar Bowl, while 93 Hall of Fame players and 18 Heisman Trophy winners have shown their skills in the New Orleans event. Throughout history, Sugar Bowl fans have had the opportunity to experience the brilliance of 28 national championship teams as well as seven match-ups between the top two teams in the nation – true national championship games.
Since 1935, the Sugar Bowl has served as an economic engine for the city of New Orleans and the state of Louisiana. In the last decade alone, the Bowl has generated $2.5 billion in economic impact for the region through its amateur sports activities. In addition to the annual Allstate Sugar Bowl Football Classic, the organization sponsors events in a wide-range of sports around the state. Each year, the Bowl supports and honors nearly 100,000 young athletes. This year’s Allstate Sugar Bowl (January 1, 2019) will feature teams from two of the top conferences in college football as the champions from the Big 12 Conference and the Southeastern Conference will clash in New Orleans. If the champion of either or both leagues is selected for the College Football Playoff, then a replacement team will be selected by that league to play in the Sugar Bowl.
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On Sunday, December 2, the match-up for the 2019 Allstate Sugar Bowl will be announced live on ESPN. Limited tickets remain available by contacting Ticketmaster at 1-800-745-3000 or by visiting www.TicketMaster.com. You may also visit www.AllstateSugarBowl.org to find exclusive ticket and travel package opportunities from official Sugar Bowl partners. The Allstate Sugar Bowl will host the Big 12 and SEC six times in the next eight years. In the other two seasons (2020 and 2023), the Sugar Bowl will host a College Football Playoff Semifinal.
UPCOMING ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWLS DATE
MATCH-UP
1.1.2019 1.1.2020 1.1.2021 1.1.2022 1.1.2023 1.1.2024 1.1.2025 1.1.2026
SEC vs. Big 12 SEC vs. Big 12 Playoff Semifinal SEC vs. Big 12 SEC vs. Big 12 Playoff Semifinal SEC vs. Big 12 SEC vs. Big 12
2019 Sugar Bowl Classic
Allstate Insurance
“The Sugar Bowl is a true monument to success, having withstood the test
In 2006, the Sugar Bowl Committee welcomed Allstate as the title sponsor of the Allstate Sugar Bowl and its many auxiliary events. Allstate is among the most committed companies in college athletics and has helped protect football fans for more than 75 years.
of time and circumstance to become part of the very fabric of New Orleans and Louisiana. The economic impact in the form of tourism spending and tax dollars generated is such a key asset to the entire region; and in addition, each year it brings the national spotlight to our city and state to showcase their virtues to an audience of millions. And the Sugar Bowl is not just a football game; it also aids the community with its support of different programs held throughout the year.” — Mitch Landrieu, Mayor of New Orleans, 2010-2018
Sugar Bowl Committee The mission of the 131-member Sugar Bowl Committee is to seek out, promote, finance, sponsor, schedule, conduct, and operate an annual calendar of local, state, national and international amateur and collegiate sporting events in the Greater New Orleans area and the State of Louisiana for the purpose of generating tourism. In addition to the nationally-recognized college football bowl game played each January in the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, the Sugar Bowl sponsors more than 50 amateur sporting events around the Greater New Orleans area and the State of Louisiana. These include events in baseball, basketball, bowling, cross country, football, golf, gymnastics, lacrosse, powerlifting, regatta/sailing, road racing, soccer, softball, swimming, tennis, track & field, volleyball and wrestling. The Sugar Bowl also sponsors the Manning Award, the Eddie Robinson National Coach of the Year Award, the New Orleans Chapter of the National Football Foundation and College Hall of Fame and the Greater New Orleans Sports Hall of Fame.
National Championship 2020 The Allstate Sugar Bowl spearheaded a successful bid effort for the city of New Orleans to host the 2020 College Football Playoff National Championship. The game is scheduled for January 13, 2020, in the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. New Orleans has established itself as a true city of champions as it has hosted 28 college football national champions, 10 Super Bowl champions, five NCAA Men’s Basketball champions and three NCAA Women’s Basketball champions.
Economic Impact Over the past decade, the Allstate Sugar Bowl has generated more than $2.5 billion for the local and state economies. The activities of the Sugar Bowl for 2017-18 also generated over $20 million in city and state tax revenue. Over the last 10 years, the Sugar Bowl has produced over $200 million in tax revenue for the region.
Quick Facts President Rod West Chief Executive Officer Paul J. Hoolahan Chief Operating Officer Jeff Hundley Title Sponsor Allstate Insurance (since March 2006) Television Network ESPN Radio Network ESPN Stadium Mercedes-Benz Superdome Capacity 72,500 2019 Sugar Bowl Classic: January 1, 2019
More Than Football While the Allstate Sugar Bowl Classic is recognized as one of the top bowl games in the nation, the Sugar Bowl is far more than just football. In fact, through hosting and sponsorships of more than 60 events, the organization supports and honors nearly 100,000 young athletes each year.
Allstate Sugar Bowl Events, 2018-19 (Tentative) Monthly, 2018-19 Aug. 4, 2018 Sept. 14-15, 2018 Sept. 15, 2018 Sept. 22-23, 2018 Sept. 26, 2018 Oct. 4-7, 2018 Oct.13, 2018 Oct. 19-21, 2018 Oct. 26-27, 2018 Nov. 3, 2018 Nov. 8-10, 2018 Nov. 10, 2018 Nov. 10-12, 2018 Nov. 12-13, 2018 Nov. 14-17, 2018 Nov. 17-18, 2018 Nov. 22-24, 2018 Nov 28-Dec. 1, 2018 Dec. 1-2, 2018 Dec. 6-8, 2018 Dec. 8, 2018 Dec. 8-9, 2018 Dec. 27-28, 2018 Dec. 31, 2018 Dec. 30-31, 2018 Jan. 1, 2019 Jan. 1, 2019 Jan. 2-5, 2019 Jan. 5, 2019 Jan. 26-27, 2019 Spring, 2019 Feb. 8-9, 2019 Feb. 9, 2019 Feb. 16, 2019 Feb. 16, 2019 Feb. 17-19, 2019 Feb., 2019 Feb. 20-23, 2019 Feb. 25-March 2, 2019 March, 2019 March 4-9, 2019 March 15-16, 2019 March 17, 2019 March 22-23, 2019 April 4-5, 2019 April, 2019 April, 2019 April 12-13, 2019 April 16-18, 2019 April 20, 2019 April 23-27, 2019 April 26-27, 2019 April 29-30, 2019 May 2-4, 2019 May 8-11, 2019 May, 2019 May 24-27, 2019 May 25-26, 2019 June 1, 2019
Greater New Orleans Amateur Athlete of the Month Greater New Orleans Sports Hall of Fame/Corbett Awards Allstate Sugar Bowl Collegiate Volleyball Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl Cross Country Festival Sugar Bowl Intercollegiate Regatta Science of Sport Teacher Training Rhodes 19 National Championship Regatta Allstate Sugar Bowl Cross Country Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl Collegiate Bowling Invitational Allstate Sugar Bowl Metro Swimming Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl Crescent City Fall Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Volleyball Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl Lacrosse Jamboree Allstate Sugar Bowl Tennis Tournament Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Cross Country Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Swimming Championships Great Oaks High School Regatta Optimist Mid-Winter Regatta Allstate Sugar Bowl CYO Basketball Tournament Allstate Sugar Bowl High School Regatta/Board Boat Regatta Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Football Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl Celebration in the Oaks Run/Walk PHRF, One Design, Race of Champions Tommy Moore Memorial Junior Golf Tournament Allstate Sugar Bowl New Year’s Eve Parade Allstate Fan Fest Allstate Sugar Bowl Fan Jam Allstate Sugar Bowl Football Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl National Prep Basketball Classic Eddie Robinson National Coach of the Year Award Presentation Allstate Sugar Bowl High School Lacrosse Classic Delgado Baseball Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Wrestling Championships Home on the Lakefront/UNO Basketball Homecoming Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Indoor Track Championships Dillard Bleu Devil Basketball Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl Intercollegiate Women’s Golf Championship Allstate Sugar Bowl UNO Baseball Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Soccer Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Girls Basketball Championships The Manning Award Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Boys Basketball Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Powerlifting Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl St. Patrick’s Day Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl Track & Field Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Bowling Championships New Orleans Chapter of the National Football Foundation Allstate Sugar Bowl Louisiana Division I State Soccer Cup Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Gymnastics Championships Louisiana Class 5A Regional Tennis Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl Crescent City Classic Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Tennis Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Softball Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Golf Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Outdoor Track Championships Allstate Sugar Bowl LHSAA Baseball Championships Louisiana Premier State Soccer Cup presented by the Allstate Sugar Bowl Allstate Sugar Bowl Primetime Super 60 AAU Basketball Allstate Sugar Bowl AAU Volleyball Super Regional Allstate Sugar Bowl Crescent City Bridge Run
Sugar Bowl in the Community The Allstate Sugar Bowl is not only actively involved in supporting amateur sporting events, but the organization is also a good corporate citizen, supporting the community in many other ways. The Bowl is a key part of youth football clinics in New Orleans and is involved in contributing scholarship funds to high school scholar-athletes as well as to the SEC Postgraduate Scholarship Program. In addition to committing $800,000 to New Orleans City Park to help improve restrooms, locker rooms and concession areas at Tad Gormley Stadium, the Sugar Bowl has donated hundreds of thousands of dollars to Teach For America New Orleans to support its efforts in the field of education. In addition, each year, the participating teams in the Allstate Sugar Bowl make visits to local hospitals.
One of the Allstate Sugar Bowl’s most significant contributions to the community has been through a multimillion dollar partnership with Nike, the Brees Dream Foundation, the city of New Orleans and other groups to renovate Joe Brown Park in New Orleans East. The park, which suffered extensive damage from Hurricane Katrina, is now one of the premier recreational facilities in the region. Included in the renovation was a football field with bleachers, a topnotch basketball gymnasium and an outdoor track facility.
A key point of the Joe Brown Park project is that it is not just a “brickand-mortar” project, but a true community project which includes programming aimed at children in the area. The shared mission for the project is to create a pipeline of sports-loving kids who have had a positive sports experience and are empowered to graduate to high school athletics.
Allstate Fan Fest Don’t miss the excitement of the 12th annual Allstate® Fan Fest located in the Jax Brewery parking lots off Decatur Street (418 North Peters Street) in the French Quarter. The two-day Fan Fest event is completely FREE and includes musical entertainment and Allstate® Sugar Bowl® official team pep rallies with cheerleaders and bands from both schools. Throughout each day, fans can win gift packs, participate in games and interactive activities and collect autographs from football celebrities. Allstate Fan Fest Sunday, December 30, 2018 Monday, December 31, 2018
12-6 p.m. 12 p.m.-12 a.m.
New Year’s Rockin’ Eve in New Orleans “Dick Clark’s New Year’s Rockin’ Eve with Ryan Seacrest 2019,” America’s biggest celebration of the year, will include highlights of exclusive performances from the Allstate® Fan Fest and interviews leading up to the fleur de lis drop near Jackson Square. This will be part of the nationally-televised New Year’s Eve show beginning at 7 p.m. Central on the ABC Television Network.
Allstate Sugar Bowl New Year’s Eve Parade The Allstate Sugar Bowl New Year’s Eve Parade, a Mardi Gras-style parade, features sponsored and themed floats, high school and university bands and entertainment for fans of all ages. The free-to-thepublic event is scheduled to begin at 2 p.m. on Elysian Fields Avenue and will roll past Jackson Square and up Decatur Street.
Allstate Sugar Bowl Fan Jam Get to the Dome early for a first-rate tailgate party at Champions Square. The party begins at 3:30 p.m. and lasts until the game begins. Fan Jam features food, interactive games and entertainment, including special appearances by both schools’ bands and cheerleading squads. Free for fans of all ages!
Mercedes-Benz Superdome (Champions Square) Tuesday, January 1, 2019
3:30 p.m.
DECEMBER 30 DECEMBER 31 12 p.m. - 6 p.m.
12 p.m. - 12 a.m.
FOOTBALL ACTIVITIES GIVEAWAYS TEAM PEP RALLIES
FREE NYE CONCERT FOOD & BEVERAGE FREE ADMISSION INTERSECTION OF DECATUR ST AND PETERS ST (NEXT TO JAX BREWERY)
© 2018 Allstate Insurance Company, 2775 Sanders Road, Northbrook, IL 60062. Marks are registered trademarks of their respective owners.
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New Orleans CONTENTS
12.18
SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM
the plan
24
9 Ask the Expert
DINING
XX
Randy Boudreaux Concierge at the Hotel Monteleone.
Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus great gumbos and Reveillon menus.
10 Editor’s Note Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.
XX 32 SHOPPING
12 Hot Dates
Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus oystershell collectibles.
15
GALLERIES +
38 ANTIQUES XX
A citywide gallery crawl. Plus PhotoNOLA and outsider art.
42
ENTERTAINMENT
XX
Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus blazing bonfires and a toast to Pat O'Brien's.
52 XX 64 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for families, first-timers and outdoor enthusiasts.
Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus St. Louis Cathedral.
16
GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS
wheretraveler.com DECEMBER 2018
Merry & Bright Light shows, joyful noises and more holiday happenings
EAT
PEPPERMINT TWISTS
SHOP
NAVIGATE
where now
58 XX
PLANTATION COUNTRY
Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a colorful history.
OYSTER ART
EXPLORE
PHOTONOLA
PROMOTION
Celebration in the Oaks is 25 acres of lights, amusement rides, marshmallow roasting, Mister Bingle, carousel and train rides and more.
E~NO-WM_181200_01_Cover.indd 1
300
N O L A
11/6/18 5:02 PM
COVER PROMOTION Close to 600,000 lights decorate scenic City Park during Celebration in the Oaks. ©CHERYL GERBER CONNECT WITH US
14 Holiday Happenings
Harry Shearer and Judith Owen's "Christmas Without Tears" and more holiday must-sees.
16 Out + About
Mister Bingle, family fun and the Orléans Collection.
17 Local Flavor
25 things we love about New Orleans.
18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER
Mint madness, hot restaurant dish and cooking with chef Isaac Toups.
6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
MAPS
Explore the city from north to south and A to Z pages 61-63
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Holiday Light Displays Making the season bright, Elton John's swan song and 26 other entertainment ideas to add to your list.
the guide
YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
NEW ORLEANS
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8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE
Randy Boudreaux Concierge at the Hotel Monteleone Q: Local school choirs perform in the Monteleone’s lobby during December. Name a few other annual holiday events visitors should seek out. A: Miracle on Fulton Street also has choirs that perform on weekend evenings, along with Santa visits, which is fun for families, and Celebration in the Oaks (p. 12), which just keeps getting bigger and better. Or even just going to hotels in the area to see their Christmas light displays. Q: Caroling in Jackson Square or the Running of the Santas, where are we most likely to find you? A: Probably the Running of the Santas (p. 17), because of the pub crawl that follows. Some years they end up at the Monteleone’s Carousel Bar (p. 50) as one of their stops. Q: Advice for Carousel Bar first-timers? A: Get there at 10:45 am before it opens, if you want to almost guarantee your chances of getting a seat. Marvin Allen, our star bartender, makes excellent hot toddies.
(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©RUNNING OF THE SANTAS
Q: Name a romantic dining spot for New Year’s Eve. A: Muriel’s Jackson Square (p. 28) is my go-to special-occasion restaurant, but with it being ground zero for the ball drop, I’d suggest Lilette (p. 31), which is a favorite place to take my wife. Q: Any resolutions for 2019? A: To not break my resolutions every year. Q: What do you love most about New Orleans? A: The freedom to be yourself. This city really champions creativity and feeds the soul.
Running of the Santas
9
EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY
A LOOK BACK
New Orleans
Where We Were This year marked Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. In celebration of the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and, throughout 2018, revisited years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 2000, the year I joined the magazine. Y2K arrived with much fanfare, ushering in a new millennium and a 61-day Carnival season. The Presbytère mounted its (still-running) Mardi Gras exhibit, then Saints coach Mike Ditka (who would be replaced by Jim Haslett later in the year) opened his short-lived, namesake restaurant on St. Charles and the Dream Palace still rocked Frenchmen. Chefs Susan Spicer and Donald Link teamed up for Herbsaint, tapas was the culinary buzzword and the Hummingbird Café was the landing spot for hungry night owls. The Ritz-Carlton brought a touch of class to Canal Street, Jazzland offered family fun (but little shade) in New Orleans East and the National D-Day Museum (now the National WWII Museum) opened in the CBD with 10,000 veterans in attendance. Ellen DeGeneres played the Saenger, Christina Aguilera pulled into the Arena with opening act Destiny’s Child and Kermit Ruffins was a Thursday-night fixture at Vaughan’s. That December Where featured City Park’s annual Celebration in the Oaks on the cover, as we do again this month…and likely will five decades from now. Cheers to another 50 years!
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Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/ Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg
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TOP STOPS
HOT
21 additional ideas worth entertaining. HOUSE OF BLUES Dec. 27: George Clinton and Parliament Funkadelic. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583
DATES
JOY THEATER Dec. 5: John Butler Trio; Dec. 6: Atmosphere; Dec. 7: “Napoleon Dynamite” screening with Jon Heder Q&A; Dec. 15: 6lack. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569
ALL MONTH:
Holiday Light Displays
The holidays get lit at City Park, where Celebration in the Oaks has been making the season bright for 32 years with hundreds of thousands of twinkling lights spread over 25 acres. The dazzling display continues throughout December, as does the new Audubon Zoo Lights, which features life-size, lighted silk replicas of animals. The free Luna Fête (shown) transforms historic Gallier Hall, the Piazza d’Italia and the Old U.S. Mint into a modern works of art Dec. 6-9 from 6 to 10 pm. Fireworks fan? Head to Jackson Square Dec. 31 at 9 pm for the annual New Year’s Eve blowout. neworleanscitypark.com; auduboninstitute.org; artsneworleans.org Elton John
caption here
5
Great Things Not to Be Missed
1 ELTON JOHN > DEC. 6 Over the past 50-plus years, Sir Elton has reigned as one of modern music’s greatest talents. Catch “Captain Fantastic” as he says “Farewell to Yellow Brick Road” on his final tour. Smoothie King Center, 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000
ELF > DEC. 1823 The elf jumps off the shelf onto the stage of Saenger Theatre with this traveling Broadway musical adaptation of the 2003 Will Ferrell flick. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 2
Trombone Shorty
3 HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS > DEC. 21 Trombone Shorty, Irma Thomas, Kermit Ruffins,
John Boutté, Ivan Neville and the Preservation Hall Jazz Band are just a small sampling of the big talents that come together for this annual concert at the House of Blues. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583 4 N.O. SAINTS > DEC. 23 & 30 The Black and Gold take on the Pittsburg Steelers Dec. 23 at 3:25 pm, before closing the 2018 season against the Carolina Panthers Dec. 30 at noon. Mercedes-Benz Superdome, 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000
5 ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL FAN FEST > DEC. 3031 Gear up for the 85th annual Sugar Bowl with a free fan fest in the Jax Brewery parking lot (Decatur and Toulouse), where a parade kicks off at 2:30 pm on New Year’s Eve. allstatesugarbowl.org
For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
ORPHEUM THEATER Dec. 2: Damien Rice; Dec. 15-16 & 22-23: N.O. Ballet Theater's “The Nutcracker.” 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SAENGER THEATRE Dec. 14: Jerry Seinfeld; Dec. 15: Mannheim Steamroller Christmas; Dec. 26: “Great Russian Nutcracker.” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Dec. 1: Harlem Globetrotters; Dec. 19: TransSiberian Orchestra. New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Dec. 3: vs. Los Angeles Clippers; Dec. 5: vs. Dallas Mavericks; Dec. 7: vs. Memphis Grizzlies; Dec. 12: vs. Oklahoma City Thunder; Dec. 16: vs. Miami Heat; Dec. 28: vs. Dallas Mavericks; Dec. 29: vs. Houston Rockets; Dec. 31: vs. Minnesota Timberwolves. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000
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LE PETIT THEATRE Dec. 7-23: “A Christmas Carol.” 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081
Celebrate the Holidays with Gray Line Tours Celebration in the Oaks Christmas Eve Bonfires Jingling Through the Crescent
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The city’s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more
HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS
The Best Christmas Pageants Ever Seasonal sing-alongs, festive felines, salacious Santas—’tis the season!
Harry Shearer and Judith Owen
w w w.wheretrave ler.c o m
Q&A Harry Shearer and Judith Owen
PHOTO (TOP, LEFT) CREDIT ©STACY GOES WARNKE; HERE (TOP, RIGHT) ©GREG GORMAN; (BOTTOM) ©KATIE SIKORA PHOTOGRAPHY; (OPENING PAGE) ©GREG SHAPPELL
You may know him as the voice of Mr. Burns and countless other “Simpsons” characters and her as his Welsh singersongwriter wife. But to locals, Harry Shearer and Judith Owen are part of the extended New Orleans family. The couple, who purchased their French Quarter home in 1996, divide time between here and Los Angeles but are always in town during December, when they mount their annual holiday show, Christmas Without Tears (Does This Tree Make Me Look Fat?). What started in their L.A. living room as a gathering of friends has since grown into a seasonal must-see, with special guests such as Steve Martin, Jane Lynch, Bryan Batt and Béla Fleck. Prior to this year’s production, which includes stops in L.A. and London before wrapping in New Orleans Dec. 17 and 18 at Le Petit Theatre (lepetittheatre.com), Where caught up with the duo for a bit of holiday cheer. Q: Where do you celebrate Christmas? JO: Always in NOLA. I can’t think of a more fun and loving place to spend the festive season, surrounded by great friends, great music and the best food! Q: What’s the main difference between here and L.A.? HS: Try talking to strangers in L.A. Try giving strangers eye contact in L.A. I think the difference between here and most cities is that, with all its strengths and weaknesses, New Orleans is still an actual community. Q: Name two things first-time visitors have to experience. HS: A cochon de lait po’boy and a brass band, ideally in the street. JO: Snug Harbor and Fifi Mahony’s. Q: What are your favorite local holiday traditions? JO: I love going to the Christmas concerts at St. Louis Cathedral, and it’s simply not Christmas unless I’ve walked through the Roosevelt Hotel’s lobby. HS: We usually have a New Year’s Eve party to watch the fireworks over the river, and on a clear night, we can see them from surrounding areas as well. Q: Why does “Christmas Without Tears” remain so popular? HS: Judith is a wonderful mis-
tress of ceremonies, she’s sharp and funny, and she won’t allow people to not have a good time. JO: Because it still feels like a party in our house that the audience has been invited to. It’s reverent and irreverent, there’s music and comedy, burlesque and audience singing, but nothing beats the ferocity with which the audience commits to my annual rebooting of “The Twelve Days of Christmas,” which I have them act out. People create human trees and partridges, dance like disco queens, and let’s not even talk about the maids a-milking! Though every city jumps in head-first, no one does it quite like NOLA. Q: What is the most memorable performance over the years? JO: I think last year’s was really remarkable and had the perfect balance of humor, musical brilliance and an added element of seasonal warmth, thanks to John Goodman’s reciting of Dylan Thomas’ “A Child’s Christmas in Wales.” Every year it gets better. Q: What is your Christmas wish for New Orleans? HS: Better drainage. JO: It’s one for New Orleans, L.A., London and everywhere these days: That we who have must try to take better care of those who have not.
The Amazing Acro-Cats
THE AMAZING ACRO-CATS MEOWY CATMAS They jump through wreaths, push miniature sleighs, roll oversized ornaments, play musical instruments and perform other acts of cuddly cuteness! Step right up, folks, and see the incredible Rock-Cats, the world’s only band made up of rescued kitties, as they pluck out rousing renditions of such seasonal standards as “Catnip Roasting on an Open Fire” Dec. 7-23 at the AllWays Lounge. 2240 St. Claude Ave., 504.218.5778; theallwayslounge.net
THE MUTILATED: A TENNESSEE WILLIAMS CHRISTMAS SPECTACULAR This rarely staged one-act (which closed after just seven performances on its 1966 Broadway debut) follows a pair of French Quarter outcasts lamenting their lots in life. Though it may sound somber, the play is actually a comedy, replete with offbeat
Christmas carols. The production runs Dec. 7-23 at the Zeitgeist Multi-Disciplinary Arts Center. 1618 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd.; twtheatrenola.com
TO JESUS, THANKS FOR EVERYTHING— JINKX & DELA Seattle-based performers BenDaLaCreme and Jinkx Monsoon, former contestants on “RuPaul’s Drag Race,” team up for this traveling “twoqueen holiday extravaganza,” which pulls into the Civic Theatre Dec. 13. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865; civicnola.com
A JOHN WATERS CHRISTMAS The “Pope of Trash”—aka “the
John Waters
People’s Pervert”—is back, “putting the X in Xmas” with his naughty-but-nice holiday show Dec. 15 at the Civic Theater. Consider yourself warned. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865; civicnola.com
FIYABIRD: A SOULFUL CHRISTMAS WITH ROBIN BARNES & FRIENDS Barnes, the “songbird of New Orleans,” returns to the Ace Hotel’s Three Keys lounge on Christmas Eve, as she has for the past three years, to ring in the holidays with Nigel Hall, Jamison Ross, Bruce “Sunpie” Barnes and other local standouts. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180; threekeysnola.com
Robin Barnes
15
WHERE NOW New
Orleans Elf Approved Traveling with children? New Orleans offers a number of holiday events geared specifically to small fries. KREWE OF JINGLE PARADE Prancing reindeer, dancing candy canes, rolling Evli, marching bands, holiday-themed floats: The Christmas season officially gets underway Dec. 1 at 1 pm along Canal Street. downtownnola.com/holidays
Mister Bingle
OUT+ABOUT
Bingle All the Way “Jingle, jangle, jingle, here’s comes Mister Bingle, with another message from Kris Kringle!” For New Orleans baby boomers the rhyme is sure to resonate, jogging visions of sugar plums and long lines snaking along Canal Street, where jolly Mister Bingle—a snowman marionette with ornament eyes, holly wings and a waffle-cone hat—graced holidays windows of the Maison Blanche department store for more than five decades. You’ll find Mister B back on Canal Dec. 1, taking part in the Krewe of Jingle Parade, and holding court throughout the month at Celebration in the Oaks in City Park (neworleanscitypark.com/celebration-in-the-oaks), where you’ll also spot him on the City Putt miniature golf course. 16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
MOVIES ON THE MISSISSIPPI Grab go-cups of cocoa and cuddle up during these free, outdoor screenings along the Mississippi riverfront. “The Santa Claus” plays Dec. 7, followed by “Elf” Dec. 14. Both begin at 6:30 pm. downtownnola.com/holidays
The Polar Express Train Ride
NOLA CHRISTMASFEST Ice-skating in New Orleans? Yes, Virginia, and curling lanes, too! The Convention Center morphs into a winter wonderland Dec. 20-31, during this family-focused affair, which features a variety of indoor activities, along with the world’s largest snowman bounce house and a 15-foot human snow globe. nolachristmasfest.com ZOO YEAR’S EVE Kids ring in 2019 early with this Dec. 31 noontime countdown at Audubon Zoo that includes live entertainment, games and sodas for toasting. audubonnatureinstitute.org/zoo-year-eve
OLD MASTERS CLASS At the time of his death in 1723, Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, the city’s namesake and a voracious art collector, had amassed close to 800 paintings, many of which were housed in the Palais-Royal, his Paris residence; in the 1790s the collection was sold and scattered worldwide. The Orléans Collection, now on view at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 49), brings together 38 of the masterpieces from 25 different lending institutions. Among the highlights are Antoine Coypel’s “The Assembly of the Gods,” which adorned the Palais-Royal’s ceiling, Andrea del Sorto’s circa-1520s “Leda and the Swan,” which has been in storage in Belgium since 1865, and Rembrandt’s “The Mill,” which has left the National Gallery of London only three times.
(TOP, LEFT) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; (TOP, RIGHT) ©THE POLAR EXPRESS TRAIN RIDE; (BOTTOM) ©NOMA/CHRYSLER MUSEUM OF ART, NORFOLK, VIRGINIA
THE POLAR EXPRESS TRAIN RIDE All aboard for a holiday adventure they’ll still be talking about this time next year. Riders in pajamas depart from Union Passenger Terminal on a magical excursion that brings the popular movie to life through actors roaming the aisles. Sure, there’s hot chocolate and cookies, but the big prize is a sleigh bell presented to each child by the Big Guy himself. nolathepolarexpressride.com
w w w.wheretraveler.c o m
LOCAL FLAVOR
25 Things We Love About New Orleans
(TOP) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER, LEFT) ©RICHARD NOWITZ/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©RUSH JAGOE/SEAWORTHY; (BOTTOM) ©NOLA CHRISTMASFEST
In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month throughout 2018 we ‘ve highlighted a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300). Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com.
1
Blazing bonfires along the Mississippi riverfront, helping light the way for Papa Nöel (p. 42).
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2 3
14
Chilling out on the skating rink in 80-degree weather during NOLA ChristmasFest (p. 16).
Saintly Saint and NFL recordsmasher Drew Brees (p. 12).
Handblown ornaments from the New Orleans School of Glassworks (p. 38).
Finding Southern Candymakers’ (p. 32) divinity and tortues in our stockings on Christmas morning.
4
Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow during the Krewe of Jingle Parade (p. 16).
15
Chef Susan Spicer’s sinful sweetbreads with lemoncaper sauce at Bayona (p. 26).
16
Soused St. Nicks and inebriated elves wreaking holiday havoc during the Running of the Santas (Dec. 8; runningofthesantas. com/event/new-orleans).
4
5
Multicourse Reveillon menus (p. 24) at area restaurants, a delicious Christmastime tradition dating to the mid 1800s.
17 18 19
The flaming Holy Water cocktail at Seaworthy (p. 25).
6
Making a joyful noise during the candle-lit Caroling in Jackson Square (Dec. 16 at 7 pm; patioplanters.net).
7 8
Historic Gallier House (p. 48) decked in “holiday dress.”
Swinging back to holidays of yore with the Victory Belles at the Stage Door Canteen (p. 50).
Giant gingerbread houses in hotel lobbies.
Gleaning decorating inspiration on the Preservation Resource Center’s holiday home tours (Dec. 8-9; prcno.org).
20
17
20 Street.
9
21
10
22 23
11 12
24
Decadent Krispy Kreme bread pudding from Boucherie (p. 30).
The Pope Francis-blessed statue of St. John Paul II, commemorating his 1987 visit to the city, in front of St. Louis Cathedral (p. 42). Snuggling together beneath fleece throws on muledrawn, French Quarter carriage rides.
Having an aha moment at the Idea Factory (p. 32).
Downing bugnog and fruit fly cake during the Jingle Bugs festivities at the Audubon Insectarium (Dec. 8; p. 42).
Avo’s (p. 30) annual Feast of the Seven Fishes.
Big Freedia’s Holiday Bounce Around the Block Party along St. Claude Avenue (Dec. 8; theallwayslounge.net)
Loading up the sleigh along retail-packed Magazine
The New Year’s Eve fleurde-lis drop from atop Jax Brewery.
13
25
The “Peace, Y’all” display at 900 Royal Street. 17
Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed
Sucré FOOD+DRINK
Mint Conditioned December reveals a passion for peppermint, a connection with all things candy cane. No sooner does the taste for pumpkin fade, than holiday hype fills the culinary world with minty flavor. Candy canes, whole or crushed, find their way into everything from fresh Louisiana citrus to cocktails, ice cream, cookies, cakes and chocolates. Wintry, cool and bright, suddenly peppermint takes over specialty coffee drinks, candies and seasonal sodas. There are all sorts of fun surprises around town to maximize the mint madness. If you’ve never slurped fresh orange juice through a peppermint stick straw…do it now. Louisiana citrus is in season, and candy peppermint sticks are as close as any local grocery or drugstore. Roll a fresh orange on the counter to release its juices, jab a candy cane stick through the peel into the fruity flesh and sip away. Chic pastry boutique Sucré (p. 30) is known for a wild array of French macaron flavors and, of course, there is a stunning and delicate peppermint macaron to dunk in dark, minty drinking chocolate, topped by pillowy peppermint marshmallows. Creole Creamery (4924 Prytania St., 504.894.8680) spins batches of bright pink peppermint ice cream flecked with shards of bashed candy. The limited-edition
treat is available only during December and July (for Christmas in July). At Gabrielle (p. 30) chef Mary Sonnier’s heavenly, pale pink peppermint ice cream tops a rich, dark chocolate brownie for the longstanding classic Peppermint Patti dessert. Bakeries such as Gracious (p. 30), Willa Jean (p. 26 ), Bittersweet Confections (p. 24) and Beth Biundo Sweets (p. 29) all roll out peppermint-chocolate cakes, cookies, bonbons, even a rogue “pop-tart.” Locals may cry sacrilege, but candy cane-shaped king cakes also make the scene. Toast the holidays with Santa’s Candy Cane, a fancy Rumple Minze schnapps cocktail, at theequally fancy Sazerac Bar (p. 49) in the Roosevelt Hotel. Cheers to all the merry-mint! —Lorin Gaudin
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COPPER VINE This elegant wine pub is a hip addition to the cluster of sportsvibed places in the shadow of the Superdome. Dive into quail-andboudin gumbo, duck fat fries and the fig-and-goat cheese flatbread at dinner. For brunch, the smoked chicken salad, ham and house bacon club sandwich is a winner. Save room for dessert; there’s buttermilk pie served a la mode with really good housespun ice creams. 1101 Poydras St., 504.208.9535 FRENCH TOAST Breakfast fans have another French Quarter morning meal option with this pretty, Frenchwindowed spot near the French Market. Sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and toasts (of course) are the get. For the famished, there is catfish, grits, eggs and tarragon-flecked aioli; fried chicken on a biscuit; and hangar steak with eggs and Lyon-
naise potatoes. 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518 POYDRAS & PETERS The menu at this new Loews Hotel eatery is fairly Continental with whiffs of Louisiana. Start with Mamere’s Gumbo—a dark roux base studded with seafood, okra and andouille—then sidle into the Shrimp & Cornbread Salad. There’s also a neat Vietnamesestyle salmon dish with noodles, pickled daikon and kimchee in an aromatic broth. Take note: This is the only local restaurant serving the surprisingly good and totally vegetarian Impossible Burger; here, it’s given Asian flare with hoisin and kimchee. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305 —LG
Copper Vine
LOUISIANA PURCHASE When it comes to cookbooks, nothing beats good stories and family-inspired recipes. Chef Isaac Toups’ new Chasing the Gator (Little, Brown) covers a lot of his personal Cajun country ground via tales, experiences and rustic flavors from his birthplace in the Atchafalaya Basin. Learn Cajun cookery 101, travel to a Boucherie, the Fish Camp, the Hunt Camp and the Community Table for cool culinary course-work, and plan to fire up the stove for recipes of popular dishes featured at Toups’ two local restaurants (Toups Meatery and Toups South). There’s a lot of character, delicious photography and personality in these pages. Be sure to make his family gumbos, Isaac’s Cornbread and the Cane Syrup Hand Pies for serious Louisiana flavor. —LG
(TOP) ©SUCRÉ; (CENTER) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/COPPER VINE; (BOTTOM) ©LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY
WHERE NOW New
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
GIFT GUIDE
Holiday Hits Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, that special something for that special someone? Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.
PORTER LYONS The Zodiac Collection- Give your loved ones the gift of the stars. Solid 14K Gold & Kimberly Certified (Conflict Free) diamonds float creating each Zodiac constellation, a unique and personal present this holiday season. Available in yellow, white and rose gold necklace and earrings. (Pictured: Capricorn). Find us at our flagship store at 631 Toulouse St., French Quarter; www.porterlyons.com.
RALPH BRENNAN RESTAURANT GROUP Grab your autographed copies of the award winning Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook, A Topsy, Turvy History of New Orleans & Ten Tiny Turtles, along with The Original Brennan’s Cookbook online at www.neworleans-food.com/shop
QUEORK This women’s wallet is made using REAL CORK! The outer fabric is sealed with silicone making it durable like leather, water resistant and easy to clean with a damp cloth. $65 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910, www.queork.com
THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Remember your time in New Orleans year after year with a keepsake ornament. These hand-blown glass ornaments come in multiple designs, each capturing a different aspect of the city’s colorful culture. Item shown is $45. Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tue–Sat, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Sun, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Watch masters of the ancient art create, quality, affordable blown glass in the only New Orleans year-round studio. Located in an award-winning restored Art Deco movie theater and rated #2 art gallery on Tripadvisor. “Blow Your Own” sessions and group parties available. 446 Vallette, Historic Algiers Point, New Orleans, 70114 Open M-F 10-5, call for Saturday hours. 504 366-3602 www.rosetreegallery.com
VINTAGE 329 Specializing in barware from the 50s & 60s. Pictured: Scandinavian Etched Cordial, Culver Red Paisley Old Fashioned, Fred Press red & gold cordial, Culver Red Paisley Tumbler, Pink & Blue “Wet Your Whistle” Swizzle Sticks, Culver Valencia Pitcher, Georges Briard Firenze Tumbler, Culver blue, green & gold juice glass, Mosaic gold, blue & green cordial. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262
THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION These hand-crafted cloisonné ornaments— plated with 24-karat gold—are the perfect way to remember your time in New Orleans. Each ornament comes in a silk-covered box. Item shown is $44. Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tu–Sa, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Su, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.
NOLA BOARDS Add some New Orleans flavor to your kitchen with these handmade cutting boards, kitchen accessories, barware, cocktail tinctures, magnetic knife holders, foodie jewelry, and much more! Can’t carry it back home? They ship! November/December POP UP at 4304 Magazine Street, 519 Wilkinson St. Suite 105, 505-435-1485, www.nolaboards.com
BEVOLO GAS AND ELECTRIC LIGHTS The Governor Pool House Lantern from Bevolo, can be used to fill the night with a soft candlelight glow, display seasonal items, or your favorite collections. Available in antique copper or stainless steel. 304/316/318 Royal St. French Quarter, Bevolo.com
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Holiday Hits
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
NEW ORLEANS RUM Gris Gris Cayenne Liqueur: created on Frenchmen Street in the summer heat. Pour a little charm in your glass. From Celebration Distillation, producers of Old New Orleans Rum and Gingeroo. Available at our distillery and coming soon to stores. 2815 Frenchmen St., 504-945-9400, oldneworleansrum.com
ADORN & CONQUER Adorn & Conquer, local and national artists. There’s something unique for everyone, ranging from $10-$600. Jewelry Artists are working in house, stop by and say hello! 2727 Prytania St, inside The Rink Shopping Center, Suite 6, 504.702.8036, www.adornandconquer.com ‘Iko, Iko’ - by Maria Fomich Cuffs $125-$550 Silver and brass cuff, featuring the sound wave of ‘Iko Iko’. The piece is a part of a series called ‘Heart Beat of the City’ showcasing our favorite New Orleans music.
HARD ROCK CAFE NEW ORLEANS Worn worldwide, the Hard Rock collection is like no other. This eclectic shop carries a variety of authentic Hard Rock merchandise such as Pins and Tees and unique to New Orleans designs. 125 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70130, www.hardrock.com/cafes/new-orleans/
BUNGALOWS From clear stadium bags to jewelry & dog collars etc., these upcycled products are made from used Louis Vuitton products. Bungalows 719 Royal St., New Orleans, LA, 504.522.9222, www.ShopBungalows.com
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MARDI GRAS WORLD, LLC Mardi Gras World not only gives you an authentic Mardi Gras experience year-round, it boasts a unique shop full of Louisiana treasures like these small decorative throw pillows featuring three fun Creole Cottage designs, all by a local artist. Measures approximately 10-inch square - $20 each. Mardi Gras World is located at 1380 Port of New Orleans Place, New Orleans, La 70130, www.MardiGrasWorld.com
ANTIEAU GALLERY Antieau Gallery showcases the work of nationally recognized, New Orleans fabricappliquÊ artist Chris Roberts-Antieau. As a self-taught Visionary artist, Antieau’s work tells stories of nature, perception, and above all, the human experience. See her impeccably stitched works at her gallery in the French Quarter at 927 Royal Street (open daily, 10am to 8pm) or Uptown at 4532 Magazine Street (open Mon-Sat, 10am to 6pm), (504) 304-0849, antieaugallery.com
BEATRIXBELL HANDCRAFTED JEWELRY Beatrixbell Handcrafted Jewelry & Gift is a design studio located on the banks of the Mississippi River in historic Algiers Point, only blocks from the ferry landing. Featuring their namesake jewelry line as well as local art, Louisiana made gifts, and other curated treasures. Modern and fresh, these geometric earrings are created with mixed metals, luscious patinas and semi precious stones. 14 karat gold dipped ear wires. 337 Morgan Street, Suite A 504-507-0955, beatrixbell.com
VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262
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the guide Dining December
Bowl Season
Get Revved Up
Nothing warms a winter day like a steaming bowl of gumbo. You’ll find variations on the Crescent City classic on menus all over town. Mr. B’s Bistro (p. 27) keeps things simple with its chicken-and-andouille Gumbo Ya-Ya, while at elegant Restaurant R’evolution (p. 29, shown) the bowl arrives empty sans a boneless quail stuffed with oysters, andouille and rice, and the broth is poured tableside. Crab-fat potato salad anchors the blue craband-collard green gumbo at DTB (p. 31), Brennan’s (p. 26) goes surf-and-turf with oysters, shrimp and andouille, and Curio (p. 26) combines duck with black-eyed peas for an ideal New Year’s Eve starter.
For generations locals have gathered for bountiful feasts following Christmas Eve Mass. Now multicourse Reveillon dinners are served throughout the month. December diners will find 70-plus restaurants, from Arnaud’s (shown) to Upperline, offering prix-fixe specials. For participating venues and menus, visit followyourjoy.com.
THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic
homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie served in the bag, meatloaf with garlic-mashed potatoes and onion rings and “Victory Garden” carrot cake. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.ww2eats.com. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. Sister to St.
Roch Market, this bright, modern food hall offers a wide variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. $ B, L, D (daily). www.auctionhousemarket. com. 801 Magazine St., no phone. Map 3, C6 BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Bakery. Confection-
er Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections.com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the
catch at this sprawling space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish. $$$ D (nightly). www.briquette-nola.com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired
space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich—a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork—and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the
standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be
“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with
haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s
award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese, housemade mayo and pickles, fresh-baked buns—order up!. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,
chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A coconut panna cotta with guava and strawberries, please. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (SaSu). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 COPPER VINEAmerican. Along with 30 varietals on
tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygo-
(LEFT) ©RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION; (RIGHT) ©ARNAUD’S
Central Business/ Warehouse District
DINING
ing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with duck fat fries. $$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coppervinewine.com. 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4 COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French
bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hangar steak Bordelaise and moules frites. Do not skip the chocolate-draped profiteroles. $$$ B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). www.couvant.com. 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 1, D5
EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets
the course for the Lagasse empire. This is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouillecrusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom
tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip eatery puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily).
www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace
Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta
(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual
dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS CAJUN COOKERY Cajun. This
easygoing spot near the Convention Center offers casual Cajun fare, a full bar and local beers. $ B, L, D (daily). 719 S. Peters St., no phone. Map 3, C7 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-
ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is
known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks. Founded
in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.ruthschris.com. 525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New
York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James
is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. $ L (M-Sa), D (Th-Sa); Br (Su). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63. RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h. Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).
Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................24
French Quarter.........................................................................................26 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 29 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................30 Mid-City..........................................................................................................30 Uptown..........................................................................................................30
WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chef Kelly
Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory sides as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4
French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the
name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s
is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining
rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. “Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old
Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition
to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse. com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Under the helm of execu-
tive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in
1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks
and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy coffeehouses. Adult beverages offered at Bourbon and Decatur locations. $ B, L, D (daily). Jazz performances daily; times vary. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent
City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery
is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). centralgrocery.com. 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French
Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ Br, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine
with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola. com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An
upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime
beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-
house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan. com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee. Named for
the vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. $ Open daily. www.frenchtruckcoffee.com. 221 Chartres St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, A7; 4536 Dryades St., 504.298.1115. Map 1, D4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s
has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues
creates big-flavored, adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate Exchange Alley gem. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and decadent bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com. 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has
taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,
filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic
and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. $$ D (M-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on
fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A full-bodied Italian wine selection is also offered.
DINING
$$$ L, D (daily). www.theitalianbarrel.com/. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-
personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-
Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com
Now Serving Lunch
the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the
concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been
satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOODSeafood. Landry’s fittingly
offers sweeping views of the Mississippi River. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5 LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru
Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, newschool tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs and Hawaiian Cuban sandwiches. $$ L (F-Sa), D (daily). www.latitude29nola.com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic. A proper gastropub
with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. Fried calamari with blistered tomatoes and charred lemons, hefty steak sandwiches with roasted mushrooms and pork belly home fries will make you linger a while. $ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.longwaytavern.com. 719 Toulouse St., no phone. Map 3, G4 MANOLITO Cuban. A taste of Cuba in the heart of
the French Quarter. Pressed Cuban sandwiches, tender ropa vieja and shrimp ceviche are top food picks. Pair with a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. $$ L (W-Su); D (nightly). www.manolitonola. com. 508 Dumaine St., no phone. Map 3, H4 MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards
tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ D (nightly); Br (Su). www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is
another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27
THE GUIDE
scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (MSa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking
Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms, a cozy bar and contemporary Creole dishes, such as crawfish-and-goat cheese crepes and pecan-crusted puppy drum. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never
slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.
Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank
Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter
bistro recently received a full makeover. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for tablesampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oysterand-brie pot pie. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former
Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-
rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?
Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 RED TRUCK CLUBHOUSE Italian. At this art-filled
restaurant and bar, the pizzas are big, crisp and topped lushly, with options range from vegan to serious carnivore. The Meatzza is packed with pepperoni, salami, alligator sausage, pork jowl and smoked sausage. $$ L, D (daily). www.10footpizza. com. 740 N. Rampart St., 504.407.3484. Map 3, G3 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this
très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant,
28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard. 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM
DINING
Indulge
in Family Traditions at Antoine’s Restaurant for Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch!
serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed
chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 ROYAL HOUSE OYSTER BAR Seafood. Oys-
504-581-4422 www.a ntoines.com 713 Rue Saint Louis New Orl ea ns, LA 70130
ters are the star attraction at this Royal Street restaurant—from fresh-shucked to charbroiled, Royale to Rockefeller. Not a bivalve fan? You’ll find plenty of other fresh seafood options, along with assorted sandwiches. $$ B (F-Su), L, D (daily). www.royalhouserestaurant.com. 441 Royal St., 504.528.2601. Map 3, F3 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. A two-for-one special.
Downstairs it’s all about the amazing macarons and desserts, while upstairs swings savory with crawfish mac and cheese, chicken poutine, steak frites and wagyu sliders. $$ Br (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon. com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of
Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance
Josephine Estelle
meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit
Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4
Garden District/ Lower Garden District
Southern fare, the Italian way
ATCHAFALAYA Creole. Look for the giant cast-
iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as free-form crab ravioli and pan-seared Gulf fish with twice-cooked fingerlings and Vidalia onion beurre blanc. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Th-M). www.atchafalayarestaurant. com. 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4 BETH BIUNDO SWEETS Bakery. This off-the-
600 Carondelet St 504.930.3070 @josephineestelle josephineestelle.com
beaten-path pastry shop, just behind the Columns Hotel, is perfect for chilling out with a coffee and a wedding-cake cupcake or an almond brittle cookie. Biundo’s tarts (try the chocolate-hazelnut) are silky centered with crisp crusts. $ Open Tu-Sa. www.bethbuindosweets.com. 3917 Baronne St., 504.899.8059. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29
THE GUIDE
COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved
turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you
mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 GRACIOUS BAKERY Bakery. Gorgeous baked
goods line the cases at this popular bakery. Ease your way into the day with twice-baked French toast with berry compote. For lunch, make it the house-cured salmon with herbed goat cheese, pickled beets and spinach on rye. $ B, L (daily). www.graciousbakery.com. 2854 St. Charles Ave., 504.301.3709. Map 1, D3; 4930 Prytania St., 504.301.3709. Map 3, D4 JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contempo-
rary space in the tony Ponchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think tableside Caesers of kale and cauliflower or squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. $$$ L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). www.jackroserestaurant.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for
the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are
the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4
Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail
shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BYWATER AMERICAN BISTROAmerican. The menu
at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy and jasmine rice; try the rabbit curry. $$ D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.bywateramericanbistro.com. 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-
ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and cho30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
rizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real
good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.elizabeths-restaurant.com. 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking
New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 POKECHAN Hawaiian. CThe order at this pretty
oasis-of-a-restaurant is build-your-own bowls of fresh greens, rice, veg and raw fish. Cooked options include salt-flecked kaarage (fried chicken) and tender unagi (eel). $ L, D (daily). www.poke-chan.com. 2809 St. Claude Ave., 504.571.5446. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its
best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this
long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3
Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip
Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 GABRIELLE Louisiana. Gabrielle’s post-Katrina
return to the local restaurant scene is a mostwelcome one. The menu reflects long-beloved dishes, such as slow-roasted duck, new recipes and a surprise or two, like braised rabbit with rose-petal syrup and Stilton cheese fries. $$ D (Tu-Sa). 2441 Orleans Ave., 504.603.2344. Map 1, D3 PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana. The menu
here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. They come as “large” (translation: gargantuan) or “small” (large). Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish, meatballs and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. $ L, D (W-M). www.parkwaypoorboys. com. 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2 PIECE OF MEAT Deli. The menu at this petit butcher
shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. Grab a pint of smoked chicken salad from the take-away fridge. $ L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.pieceofmeatbutcher.com. 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289. Map 1, D3
RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-
rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 1000 FIGS Mediterranean. This popular Mid-City
spot is the brick-and-mortar space of the team behind the equally popular Fat Falafel food truck. Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups
(Toups South) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3 WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE Southern. This
beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. $ L (MSa). www.williemaesnola.com. 2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503. Map 1, D3
Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-
generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-
beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www.boucherie-nola.com. 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 BRIGTSEN’S Creole. Secluded in the Riverbend
neighborhood, Brigtsen’s has a lower profile than many other first-rank local restaurants. A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason
Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (SaSu). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CAVANSouthern. This Victorian home’s “beautiful
deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots and salmon poke tacos before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4
DINING
DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays
homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery
doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). www.laboulangerienola.com. 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French
bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and
feels French, but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.liletterestaurant.com. 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-
mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all
Home of the Original
BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP
of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEYSouthern.
Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken is the menu centerpiece at this casual Commander’s Palace offshoot near Audubon Park. Start with the fish dip on house saltines and finish with cookie-dough s’mores. $ L, D (daily). www.nolapicnic.com. 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with
contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. $$$ L (F-Sa), D (TuSa). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Shaya’s wood-burning oven
FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties
Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.
turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant.com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 UPPERLINE Creole. You’ll see wizards painted on
the exterior and an eclectic art collection inside, both products of the fully original character of owner JoAnn Clevenger, who invented the must-try fried green tomatoes with remoulade. Don’t miss the oysters St. Claude $$ D (W-Su). www.upperline. com. 1413 Upperline St., 504.891.9822. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31
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THE GUIDE
Shopping Holidays on the Half Shell In New Orleans, oysters are ubiquitous during the holidays—bolstering cornbread stuffing, bobbing around in gumbos—but they aren’t just confined to the dining table. Shellacked and stacked into tree shapes, oyster shells serve as table centerpieces at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 48) gift shop, where you’ll spot SeaGem Studio’s ceramic shell-shaped serving bowls (shown) and oyster platters. SeaGem’s shell creations are also available at Crescent City Cooks (p. 44), while decorative Limoges porcelain oyster plates from the late 19th century are found at Lucullus (p. 38). At Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights (p. 38) oyster-shell ornaments are etched in gold leaf and inlaid with maps of the city, while Santa’s Quarters (p. 32) offers blown-glass shell replicas enhanced with individual pearls.
BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City
confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections. com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-
ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant
hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-
ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find
fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—
along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. www.shopforeverneworleans.com. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
NOLA KIDS This French Quarter chil-
dren’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4
wheretraveler.com
HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-
rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features
toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep
small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor
to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4
SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right
this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1025 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big
on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4 SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS You can catch a sugar
buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5
Health & Beauty/Spas FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink
wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.
THE PRALINE, that quintessential Crescent City souvenir, was created in 17th-century France as a digestive aide and named for French diplomat Cesar du Plessis-Praslin. 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
©SEAGEM STUDIOS
Gifts & Collectibles
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 32
BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS
Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 32 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 34 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 36 Special Services...................................................................................... 36
Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4
719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222
HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that
has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa
provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,
© 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved
Bungalow’s
award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these
centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10
private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3
Jewelry ADLER’S Since 1898, Adler’s has been New Or-
leans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry, watches, china and silver. www.adlersjewelry.com. 722 Canal St., 504.523.5292. Map 3, E4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952. Map 1, C2 ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-
ates handmade jewelry on-site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf imprints) are featured in her designs and works by 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
(504) 522-9222 719 Royal St New Orleans LA 70116 © Copyright 2017-Ronaldo Designer Jewelry, Inc-All rights reserved
THE GUIDE
national crafters. www.adornandconquer.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear
boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4
AROUND THE bea SQUARE bea
Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter B
A
FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,
St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-
nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is
a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5
Malls/Major Retailers C
LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping
stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veteran’s Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Lo-
cated along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features
some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5
Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addi-
tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.net. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother
with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4
36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
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THE GUIDE
Galleries+Antiques
Southern Exposure
Nature Walk
Contemporary photography is the focus of the 13th annual PhotoNOLA Dec. 12-15. The citywide celebration features dozens of exhibits at art galleries, museums and various other venues (restaurants, bars, shops) around town. Among this year’s must-sees are Josephine Scabo’s new “Tagged” series at A Gallery for Fine Photography (p. 38), Nell Dickerson’s depictions of decaying antebellum architecture at Gallier House (p. 48, shown), Thomas Dodd’s Old Masters-influenced images at Creason’s Fine Art Gallery (p. 38) and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art’s (p. 49) “New Southern Photography” group exhibition. For a complete lineup of exhibits, locales and related events, visit photonola.org.
Local painter Kris Wenschuh spent eight months away from the hustle and bustle of the city, hiking the Appalachian Trail between Georgia and Maine. The result is Tenderness Is Lighter Than Air, her latest series on view through January at LeMieux Galleries (p. 38), which explores the restorative powers of the great outdoors.
ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’
leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers
contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is
home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,
sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’
studio features free demos by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver. Designs made in the studio are on display and for sale. www.neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6
French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
wheretraveler.com
The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-
eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France
on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority
of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig
Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with
intricate imagery then captures on film. Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4
CREASON’S FINE ART GALLERY Here, artist-owner Greg Creason’s vibrant “modern art with a traditional flair” shares wall space with with contemporary works by Darrell George, Tracy Jarmon, Mary Pat Wallen and others. www.creasonsfineart. com. 831 Chartres St., 504.345.2243. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning
photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy
Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in
objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4
ARTIST JAMES MICHALOPOULOS, known for his highly collectible architectural works, got his start on Bourbon Street, where he drew portraits for $2 to $3 each. 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
(LEFT) ©PHOTONOLA; (RIGHT) ©LEMIEUX GALLERIES
Central Business/ Warehouse District
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 38
French Quarter ...................................................................................... 38 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................40
M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family
business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural
renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark
is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4
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VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,
this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4
Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the
works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into
this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past
decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
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THE GUIDE
Entertainment
All Fired Up for Xmas
Big Birthday Bash
For more than two centuries Louisianans have been igniting bonfires along the Mississippi to serve as beacons for Papa Noël. During the holidays hundreds of bonfires line the river between New Orleans and Lutcher, home to the Festival of the Bonfires (Dec. 14-16; festivalofthebonfires.org), now in its 29th year. Bonfire parties also take place on Christmas Eve. Gray Line’s (p. 46) Bonfire Adventure Tour takes you there and back, with eggnog en route and a dinner stop at San Francisco Plantation along the way. Closer to the city, the Dec. 1 Algiers Bonfire & Concert offers live entertainment starting at 5:30 pm, before the big show at 8:30 pm (algiersbonfire.com).
There’s always a party on the patio at Pat O’Brien’s (p. 49), but the fun factor ramps way up Dec. 2, in celebration of the beloved bar’s 85th anniversary. The daylong event features live music, limited-edition glasses and $4 Hurricane cocktails. Want to really be blown away? Order the 384-ounce Magnum Hurricane.
ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great
Louis Armstrong, this r34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This
award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to
insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among
the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4
AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
pleasure palace features five New Orleans1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. 104 table games, live entertainment and a wheretraveler.com lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open Tu-Su JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.audubonoriginally known as Place d’Armes, and was reinstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or named to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 the dead” act as windows on the past, offering inMARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; world’s largest float builder. The tour features a Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans video on the history of Mardi Gras. $22 adults/ of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number children, $17 seniors/students with college ID, of her works there. Many are located in high-crime $14 ages 11-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. www. areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., day or night. 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, Located one block from the Magazine Street larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, specialties, the market also features a number of 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by food stalls, retail shops and flea market merappointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., chants. www.frenchmarket.org. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated
DURING PROHIBITION, the secret password for entry to Club Tipperary was “storm’s brewin’”; the spot would later become Pat O’Brien’s, home to the Hurricane. 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
(LEFT) ©CHERYL GERBER; (RIGHT) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM
Attractions & Landmarks
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.
Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................42
Cooking Classes .....................................................................................44 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................44 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 48 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 49 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 50
a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-
enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6
Cooking Classes CRESCENT CITY COOKS Learn the secrets of New
Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct twohour classes daily, and taste the results afterward during lunch; prices vary. Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a large selection of spices and culinary utensils. www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600. Map 3, G NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking
demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com. 524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5
Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas
of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative
double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided
bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
THE GUIDE
are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour
Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours
depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. Tales & Tastes: Your Ultimate Food and Cocktail Tour –Th-Su, 7 pm; call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4
Unlock Holiday Traditions in the French Quarter
Open Thursday - Tuesday 10AM - 4PM Guided Tours Every Hour on the Hour 10AM - 3PM
GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city
tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs. Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.Plantation/Brunch/Swamp Combo –8.75 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5
Hermann-Grima House 820 St Louis St.
www.hgghh.org//504.525.5661
PRODUCTS & SERVICES: Notary Public
NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and
informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. 504.858.9988 Map 3, I5
Gallier House 1132 Royal St.
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WE SHIP WINE!
FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping MON-FRI 9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed
NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese
guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs
daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm, and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377. STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-
boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer
a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchar46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415
National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church
V Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing V Religious Articles V Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org
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train and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com. 2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489. Map 1, D3 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These
two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required. All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm. For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.
Museums & Exhibits
The ONLY Non-Profit Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Promotion, Preservation, Restoration & Education.
CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier
modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New
Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/
museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove
of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn
through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.523.1357. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10
am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.” 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/ active military, children under 6 free. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)–Built in 1789, this 48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
Join us for walking tours through some of the most fascinating cemeteries in New Orleans. Reserve at SaveOurCemeteries.org or call 504-525-3377. SaveOurCemeteries.org
1:57 PM
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is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Currently closed for renovations. New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint
(400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Second-floor exhibits trace the history of jazz in the city, from its inception to today. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968. NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-
ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the
South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10
am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most
comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6
Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic
cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus
bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked
inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great
ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play—
the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. The sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic
cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,
this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s
club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic
cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the
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official cocktail of New Orleans. www.therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3
Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a
warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. The benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,
this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. Live music nightly. www.hotelmonteleone.com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip
features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape
inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this
national chain consistently tops local best-of lists,
50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the
Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz
landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene. The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a
quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz
since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of
Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was
rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,
laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone
era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace
Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable
nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,
always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4
THE GUIDE
Navigate Praiseworthy
General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street. SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you. DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can. SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars. PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency. CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.
Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official
ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels. Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart
There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID). ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car. Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie. BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.
LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019. 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
©GLGK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
A night out on Bourbon Street may suggest a town built on loose morals, but all it takes is a stroll through Jackson Square, the original heart of the city, to find New Orleans’ spiritual center. Since its founding in 1718, religion has played an important role in Crescent City life as evidenced by the location of St. Louis Cathedral—the oldest active Catholic cathedral in the United States—which anchors the French Quarter (p. 53). The third church to occupy the site (a hurricane destroyed the first in 1722; the second burned in the Great Fire of 1788), the current building was completed during the 1850s. Today the cathedral continues to serve as the city’s holy high ground with Mass said daily and the church’s bells tolling every quarter hour.
N A V I G AT E
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index General Information........................................................................... 52 Nearby Destinations............................................................................53 Cajun Country...........................................................................................53 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 53 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 53 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................53 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................53 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 53 Transportation ....................................................................................... 52
CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial
corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or
Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-
est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern
TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,
particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater. Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102). WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-
ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.
Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi
River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian
shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center
of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5
styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by
Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one
of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the
banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as
Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district. Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest
African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”
adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-
nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-
ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego. English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4
Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often
think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org, www.cajuncountry.org. JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from
New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes. Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net. ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake
Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com. TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about
an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 53
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THE GUIDE
Plantation Country Shades of the Past During the early 19th century, plantation homes lacked many modern amenities, but life along River Road was anything but dull and dreary. A number of historic homes that are now open to the public illustrate just how vibrant the era actually was. Take “Steamboat Gothic” San Francisco (shown), for example, with its myriad architectural influences, where skilled artisans were brought in to handpaint the ornate ceilings and faux-grain woodwork. Or Houmas House, the “Crown Jewel of River Road,” where the striking interiors mirror the gorgeous grounds, which provide a year-round riot of color. Laura reflects its Creole heritage with vivid exterior hues of ocher, red and blue, while antebellum homes erected by Americans, such as Nottoway (the “White Castle of Louisiana”) and Oak Alley, were typically painted white.
DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from
New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under. Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek
Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation. Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org. 4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837. HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS
Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available. by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property. Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org. 985.369.7151. 406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553. NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-
signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg. 12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.
SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,
built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under. Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-
RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain. 58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
©SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION
Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans
LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This
P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T RY
Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details. This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.
Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60
franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect
Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com. 3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the
public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.
Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of
an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773. BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained
by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast. Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312. COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most
complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59
THE GUIDE
P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y
buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings. B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674. GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned
Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475. MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most
haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277. NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White
Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John
James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739. ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home
features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332. RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden
Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.
Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of
the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2018
yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.
PLANTATION TOUR S
CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers
casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce
piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451. THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed
New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a
former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921. Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236.. GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art
gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463. LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-
tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant
offers sweeping views of the plantation’s oaks and seasonally inspired Cajun and Creole fare, with daily lunch and dinner specials. The bar, located in what was once the Randolph-family bowling alley, features classic Louisiana cocktails, local beers and an extensive wine list. B, L, D (daily); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring
Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite? Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.
One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience. Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans
FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095
or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org
THE GUIDE | MAPS
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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 1 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses
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[WHERE INSIDE]
New Orleans Your Way
Family Travelers
First-Time Visitors
Outdoor Lovers
Kids are encouraged to take part in daily feedings at the award-winning (1) Audubon Aquarium, where they’ll also learn about ocean pollution via the “Washed Ashore” exhibit of aquatic animals created from plastic debris collected from West Coast beaches. “Hands-on” is the key phrase at the (2) Louisiana Children’s Museum, where the “Little Port of New Orleans” exhibit allows small fries to pilot huge simulated barges down the Mississippi, while the “Kids’ Café” caters to budding chefs. Paul Bunyan rubs shoulders with King Kong and Elvis cavorts with giant mermaids at (3) Mardi Gras World, where the bigger-than-life Carnival creations are sure to get young imaginations moving. A tour of the compound also provides an educational overview of Fat Tuesday traditions.
Laid out as a military parade ground in 1721, (1) Jackson Square remains one of New Orleans’ most historic—and most visited—spots. It’s hard to miss the square’s signature statue of general Andrew Jackson at its center. Track the trail of powdered sugar down Decatur Street, and you’ll find hordes of folks lined up outside (2) Café Du Monde, as they have since 1862. Don’t let the long lines deter you; the trademark café au lait and fresh-fried beignets are worth the wait. The Sazerac, named “the Official Cocktail of New Orleans” by the Louisiana legislature in 2008, was first poured in the French Quarter in 1838. The drink has since become synonymous with the Roosevelt Hotel, home to the famed (3) Sazerac Bar since the 1930s.
Work in a history lesson on your morning run with a (1) New Orleans Jogging Tour, a six-mile trek that starts in the French Quarter then winds through the downtown and into the Garden District. Scenic (2) City Park isn’t just home to Celebration in the Oaks; outdoor enthusiasts will find everything from biking and golf to horseback riding and tennis. Birdwatchers will gravitate to the 60-acre Couturie Forest, while fitness junkies will find their fix in the hydraulic exercise equipment positioned around the Big Lake. As one the nation’s most bike-friendly cities, New Orleans has seen a recent boom in two-wheel vendors. (3) Confederacy of Cruisers is among of the most popular, offering guided rides as well as daily rentals.
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(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©AUDUBON AQUARIUM; ©LOUISIANA CHILDREN'S MUSEUM; ©MARDI GRAS WORLD; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©FOTOLUMINATE LLC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©NEWORLEANS.COM; ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©NEW ORLEANS CITY PARK; ©SHAWN FINK
UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS
HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens This holiday season is the perfect time to visit Houmas House Plantation and Gardens. Take a spectacular tour of the original plantation house built in the 1770s, decorated with Christmas cheer. Stroll through 16 acres of breathtaking gardens. Find the perfect presents for loved ones at the gift shop and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants. You can also stay overnight in a luxurious room at The Inn at Houmas House. Plan your memorable trip today! Transportation provided by Old South Tours. Daily pick up from your hotel at 10:30 am. Reserve your seat by calling 504-488-1177. Or take your car and arrive between 9 am and 7 pm.
Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com
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