GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS
LITTLEKNOWN NOLA
Secret spots and hidden gems
EAT
FUN FOOD FETES
PLAY
PARADES APLENTY
RELAX
SPRING FOR A SPA
PROMOTION
Cane & Table, the French Quarter’s Caribbean oasis. MARCH 2019
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STONE CRABS Now Available
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ART & EY&S
3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494
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BEWARE THE EYES THAT MARCH. INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE.
JOSE BASSO and CLAUDIA HENRIQUEZ-JOHNSON opening reception 16 march 2019 6pm on exhibit through april 2019
221 Royal Street I New Orleans I 504.586.0202 I www.windsorfineart.com I info@windsorfineart.com
New Orleans CONTENTS
03.19
SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM
the plan
the guide 18
9 Ask the Expert
DINING
XX
Geoff Polson Concierge at the Holiday Inn Express St. Charles.
Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus a month full of food fests.
10 Editor’s Note A 90-minute exploration of Algiers Point to make the most of your time in New Orleans.
28
SHOPPING
XX
Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus spring for a spa treatment and float-scale flowers.
12 Hot Dates Hamilton Rapping revolutionaries, Pink, Freedia Gras, “the biggest free party on earth” and 30 other ideas to add to your list.
15
GALLERIES +
34 ANTIQUES XX
A citywide gallery crawl. Plus George Rodrigue’s “Dream” job and bizarre beadwork.
40 ENTERTAINMENT XX
64 New Orleans Your Way
XX
50
Curated Crescent City itineraries for history lovers, LGBTQ travelers and outdoor enthusiasts.
Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus St. Louis Cathedral.
GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS
17
LITTLEKNOWN NOLA
Secret spots and hidden gems
EAT
FUN FOOD FETES
PLAY
PARADES APLENTY
RELAX
SPRING FOR A SPA
PROMOTION
Cane & Table, the French Quarter’s Caribbean oasis. MARCH 2019
wheretraveler.com E~NO-WM_190300_01_Cover.indd 1
2/5/19 4:05 PM
COVER PROMOTION Carrots en mole and other islandflavored fare from Cane & Table, one of the city’s under-the-radar dining gems. ©RANDY P. SCHMIDT
where now Hidden gems and tucked-away treasures. 15 Mardi Gras parades, three cultural celebrations, two music festivals and one for the books.
17 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER
XX
56
PLANTATION COUNTRY
Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a colorful history.
14 Local Knowledge 16 Out + About
CONNECT WITH US
NAVIGATE
Dining on the down low, hot restaurant dish and a side of cheese fries, chased with Miller ponies.
6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
MAPS
Explore the city from north to south and A to Z pages 61-63
(LEFT) ©THE LIPPIN GROUP; (CENTER, TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©THE VINTAGE
Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus cooking up a good time and Aurora Nealand.
CANE & TABLE 1 1 1 3 D E C AT U R S T R E E T | F r e n c h Q u a r t e r , N e w O r l e a n s
Cane & Table celebrates tropical classic cocktails and Caribbean cuisine with influences from the flavors and heritage of New Orleans.
RESERVATIONS (504) 581-1112 HOURS
Sunday-Thursday DINNER FROM 5PM-11PM Friday & Saturday DINNER FROM 5PM-MIDNIGHT Saturday & Sunday BRUNCH FROM 10:30AM-3PM
HAPPY HOUR
Named one of Esquire’s best bars in America and a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist of Outstanding Bar Program, Cane & Table is a culinary and cocktail gem that offers reprieve in the iconic and bustling New Orleans’ French Quarter. Cane & Table is elevated revelry you don’t want to miss on a trip to New Orleans.
Monday - Friday, 3PM UNTIL 6PM
caneandtablenola.com
@caneandtable
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NEW ORLEANS
PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT
EAT, DRINK &
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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE
Geoff Polson Concierge at the Holiday Inn Express St. Charles Q: You’re a former funeral director. How is that similar to being a concierge? A: If I do my job right, there’s almost no crying. No, really, the greatest joy I get out of this job is when people leave loving New Orleans and experiencing something they would not have done if they didn’t have a concierge. I don’t see me doing anything else—until I’m serviced through my old industry. Q: Your hotel is located on Lee Circle, which is a prime parade-viewing spot. A: Every parade either stalls or brakes down at the corner of Lee Circle and St. Charles. Last year I got eight Muses shoes; it looked like I had mugged a drag queen. I ended up giving them to guests. Q: You also conduct a trivia night at Crescent City BBQ (p. 21) Mondays at 7 pm. Share a piece of NOLA trivia. A: Dr. Teeth from “The Muppet Show” house band was inspired by Dr. John.
(TOP) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©THE BOMBAY CLUB
Q: Suggest a hidden dining gem. A: The Bombay Club (p. 21); it’s almost the perfect place. Also Mandina’s (p. 25), which has the best red beans and rice. You’ll need a nap after; they feed you like you’re going to the electric chair. Q: The Tennessee Williams Festival or the New Orleans Bourbon Fest? A: I’d flask bourbon and go to the Tennessee Williams Fest…which is much easier than reading Tennessee Williams at the Bourbon Festival.
The Bombay Club
9
EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY N E W S T O T R AV E L B Y
The Essential New Orleans Spring officially arrives March 20, which is nature’s way of telling you to get out and explore the city a bit. Visitors will find the Garden District in full bloom this month, green beer flowing in the Irish Channel and crawfish boils popping up all over town, from Bywater to Algiers Point. Dig in, and get your hands dirty. 90 MINUTES IN:
Algiers Point That area across the river from the French Quarter? That’s Algiers, New Orleans’ secondoldest neighborhood, which is easily accessed via the Algiers ferry. Established in 1719, the Point—the neighborhood near the ferry—is a network of small streets lined with charming houses in an array of architectural styles. Landmarks include the Jazz Walk of Fame, just to the right of the ferry landing; the circa-1896 Algiers courthouse; Holy Name of Mary Church, an enormous Gothic cathedral with stunning stained glass; and Rosetree Glass Studio, located in a 1930s art deco theater. Grab a bite at one of the neighborhood cafés, tip a pint at the British-themed Crown & Anchor Pub or catch a band at the Old Point Bar, one of the city’s bestkept live music secrets. Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.
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Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/ Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg
10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
A NDY WA RHOL
M A RC CH AG A LL
PA BLO PICASSO
IT’S AUCTION SEASON! ‘Buy it now’ or bid on exceptional fine art Explore a singularly remarkable collection from many of the world’s finest 20th and 21st century artists including Warhol, Picasso, Murakami, MirĂł, Mas, Lalonde, Kostabi, Kondakova, Hofmann, Haring, Hallam, Fressinier, ErtĂŠ, Deyber, DalĂ, Chagall, Bertho + many others. LIVE ART AUCTION
Sunday, March 31, 2:00 pm (preview 12:30 pm) Westin New Orleans Canal Place, 100 Rue Iberville
Martin•Lawrence Galleries
Rare Paintings • Bronze Sculpture Limited Edition Prints
433 Royal Street, New Orleans (504) 299-9055
In the heart of the French Quarter, across from the Courthouse M A R T I N L AW R E N C E .C O M • 4 3 3 R OYA L@ M A R T I N L AW R E N C E .C O M
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WHERE CALENDAR MARCH
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TOP STOPS 28 additional ideas worth entertaining. CIVIC THEATRE Mar. 10: Kurt Vile and the Violators. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865
DATES
MARCH 12-31:
Hamilton
Who would have imagined rapping revolutionaries would revolutionize Broadway? Lin-Manuel Miranda’s adaptation of Ron Chernow’s best-selling bio of Alexander Hamilton has done just that, playing to sold-out audiences since its 2015 debut, and garnering 11 Tony Awards, a Grammy and a Pulitzer along the way. Melding hip-hop, R&B, jazz and pop with good old Broadway show tunes, the gamechanging musical follows the life of the nation’s first Secretary of the Treasury, from his orphan youth (“The 10-dollar Founding Father without a father”) to his death by duel at the hands of vice president Aaron Burr. Catch the touring production at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000
5 caption here Big Freedia
Great Things Not to Be Missed
1 FREEDIA GRAS > MARCH 2 & 3 Think Carnival couldn’t get any crazier? Think again. The “Queen of Bounce” joins with rapper Pell and indie rockers Sweet Crude for this buildup to the big blowout. One Eyed Jacks, 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361
FAT TUESDAY > MARCH 5 Zulu, Rex, the Society of St. Anne, the Bourbon Street Awards, the Mardi Gras Indians, St. Charles Avenue, Frenchmen Street, Orleans Avenue. There’s no way to see everything and be everywhere on Mardi Gras Day…but it sure is fun trying. Pace yourself for the “the biggest free party on earth.” 2
Pink
3 AVETT BROTHRES > MARCH 15 & 16 Americana, alt-country, bluegrass-rock: The hard-to-peg group breaks in the new Fillmore New Orleans with back-to-back performances. 6 Canal St., 800.745.3000
4 PINK > MARCH 17 She flies through the air with the greatest of ease, all the while belting out 18 years of solid gold hits. Catch the pop icon’s “Beautiful Trauma” tour when it swings into the Smoothie King Center. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.881.1555
5 WEDNESDAY AT THE SQUARE > MARCH 20 & 27 This free outdoor concert series features weekly performances by local musicians, from 5 to 8 pm, at Lafayette Square. St. Charles Ave. and Lafayette St.; ylcnola.org
For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
HOUSE OF BLUES Mar. 5: Wiz Khalifa; Mar. 15: Blues Traveler; Mar. 29: Reverend Horton Heat. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583 JOY THEATER Mar. 1: Noname; Mar. 14: Travis Greene. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569 ORPHEUM THEATER Mar. 19: Amos Lee. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Mar. 9: Zac Brown Band; Mar. 29: Jeff Dunham. New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Mar. 6: vs. Utah Jazz; Mar. 8: vs. Toronto Raptors; Mar. 12: vs. Milwaukee Bucks; Mar. 15: vs. Portland Trail Blazers; Mar. 16: vs. Phoenix Suns; Mar. 24: vs. Houston Rockets; Mar. 26: vs. Atlanta Hawks; Mar. 28: vs. Sacramento Kings; Mar. 31: vs. L.A. Lakers. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000
(TOP) ©JOAN MARCUS 2018; (CENTER) ©THE LIPPIN GROUP; (BOTTOM) ©JSTONE/SHUTTERSTOCK
HOT
THE FILLMORE Mar. 1: Dropkick Murphys; Mar. 4: Steel Panther; Mar. 9: Franco Escamilla; Mar. 17: Ben Rector; Mar. 19: Nothing More; Mar. 21: Brothers Osborne; Mar. 23: Haters Roast; Mar. 24: Bob Weir; Mar. 27: Hozier; Mar. 29: Jason Isbell. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555
Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY
LAURA
Three Unique Stories of Plantation Life Choose a TWO plantation combination Whitney & Laura | Laura & Oak Alley | Whitney & Oak Alley
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steamboat
Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com
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The city’s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Secrets of the City
Studio BE 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R
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15 hidden gems worth seeking out
(TOP) ©M.S. RAU ANTIQUES; (CENTER) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; (BOTTOM, RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM, LEFT) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; (OPENING PAGE) ©SHAWN FINK
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sprawling space is the perfect fit for artist Brandan Odums’ massive, statement-making murals. For all of the destruction Hurricane Katrina wrought, there was one positive that followed in its wake: After five decades of being shrouded in sheetrock at the art deco Lakefront Airport (6001 Stars & Stripes Blvd.), Xavier Gonzalez’s circa-1938 depictions of famous travel destinations have been uncovered, restored and returned to public view. At Union Passenger Terminal (1001 Loyola Ave.), you’ll discover Conrad Albrizio’s 1954 fresco, which traces 400 years of Louisiana history and ranks as one of the largest in the U.S.
M.S. Rau Antiques
Sure, there’s Jackson Square, the French Market and Bourbon Street—local landmarks on every tourist map. But what about those oft-overlooked spots and tucked-away treasures? In many cases, they’re right out in the open…you just have to know where to look. WINDOWS INTO NOLA Pass in front of Brennan’s (p. 22) and, through a window to the far right of the entrance, you’ll see the kitchen staff preparing such signature dishes as eggs Hussarde and steak Diane. You can also peek in on the muffuletta-making action through a side window at the Napoleon House (p. 24), while a small, barred window between 519 and 521 Royal Street affords views of Antoine’s legendary wine cellar. Love the beignets at Café Du Monde (p. 22), but hate the long lines? Skip the table wait, grab a to-go order and take a seat along the wall in the back, where you can watch them being made through a rear window.
Café Du Monde
THE ART OF DISCOVERY With its covered-over windows, passersby might think A Gallery (p. 34) had long been shuttered. But the barrier actually serves as a sunshade, protecting the wealth of fine-art photography that lies within. Enter M.S. Rau (p. 36) and you’re greeted by a security guard, which makes sense given the $10-million blue diamond on display. Pass the silver pirate swords and gilt-bronze candelabras, hang a right at the Ice Age cave-bear skeleton and head for the faux bookshelf in the back. There you’ll find a secret door that leads to the really good stuff— three floors of fine art and furnishings from the 16th through 21st centuries. Free tours are offered Saturdays at 2 pm. GREENSPACE GETAWAYS Until recently views the mighty Mississippi were limited to a small area of the French Quarter. That all changed with the opening of the riverfront Crescent Park (p. 40), which connects the Quarter to the Bywater and offers sweeping sky-
Crescent Park
line vistas. The Lafitte Greenway (p. 42) was once a canal linking Bayou St. John to the Quarter. It’s now a public promenade dotted with wildflowers, recreation fields and beer gardens; check it out during Hike Fest (March 23). From his arrival in 1929 to his death in 1999, Enrique Alférez established himself as one of New Orleans’ most popular artists. The Enrique Alférez Sculpture Garden in City Park (p. 40) brings together 14 of his most important—and beautiful—pieces in one tranquil setting. MURAL, MURAL ON THE WALL It’s hard to miss the sunny exterior of Studio BE (p. 39), but step inside to really be wowed. The
ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS Despite its name, the majority of French Quarter architecture is actually from the city’s Spanishruling period. For a real piece of Paris, head to the Garden District, home to the Eiffel Society (2040 St. Charles Ave.), an events space constructed from the famed tower’s former restaurant. A short streetcar ride away is the Milton H. Latter Memorial Library (5120 St. Charles Ave.), a must-visit for bibliophiles, housed in a 1907 neo-Italianate mansion. It takes a car to access the Holy Cross neighborhood’s historic “steamboat houses” (400 and 503 Egania St.). But the twin ornamental beauties, built in the early 1900s for husband-and-wife riverboat pilots Milton and Mary Doullut and their son Paul, are worth going the distance for.
Lakefront Airport
15
Orleans BEAD TOWN
OUT+ABOUT
GET YOUR GROOVE ON
March roars in like a lion with 15 Mardi Gras parades hitting the streets in its first five days. Don’t let them pass you by.
• THE BUKU MUSIC + ART PROJECT makes a big noise along the riverfront March 22-23, with Lana Del Ray, A$AP Rocky, Dog Blood and 60 additional alternative, hip-hop, EDM, R&B and indie acts sharing multiple stages in and around Mardi Gras World. Between sets, check out the cool art installations.
March 1 • Hermes, Uptown, 6 pm • Krewe d’Etat, Uptown, 6:30 pm • Morpheus, Uptown, 7 pm
thebukuproject.com • THE CONGO SQUARE RHYTHMS FESTIVAL celebrates the AfroCaribbean music and culture that put the square on the map (it’s said jazz originated at the site) and helped shape the city’s musical legacy. African drumming and dance, Mardi Gras Indians, brass bands, New Orleans and Caribbean cuisine—you’ll
March 2 • Iris, Uptown, 11 am • Tucks, Uptown, noon • Endymion, Mid-City, 4:15 pm
find it all and then some during this free fling March 30-31 at Armstrong Park. jazzandheritage.org/congo-square
Triple Treat Mardi Gras isn’t the only parade game around town this month. ST. PATRICK’S DAY Irish eyes will be shining March 15, when Jim Monaghan’s Irish Parade kicks off from Molly’s at the Market (1107 Decatur St.) at 6 pm. Magazine Street (between Napoleon and Jackson) is the place to be the following day when the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Parade rolls at 1:30 pm. Rounding out the green scene is the Downtown Irish Club Parade, which starts in the Bywater neighborhood (Burgundy and Piety streets) March 17 at 6 pm.
Stanley and Stella Shouting Contest
Tenn Types The French Quarter gets lit March 27-31 during the 33rd annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival. Headquartered at the Hotel Monteleone (a national literary landmark), the salute to “America’s greatest playwright” features panel discussions with writers from around the country. But it’s not as heady as it may sound. There are also performances of “Suddenly Last Summer” and “Baby Doll,” a burlesque tribute, literary walking tours and the raucous Stanley and Stella Shouting Contest. See…reading can be fun. tennesseewilliams.net 16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
SUPER SUNDAY March 17 is also when Mardi Gras Indian tribes strut their feathered-and-beaded finery around the Central City neighborhood. Follow the crowds to A.L. Davis Park (Washington and Lasalle streets) at noon. ST. JOSEPH’S DAY On March 19 Catholic churches citywide erect food-laden altars in homage St. Joseph. The 49th annual Italian-American St. Joseph’s Parade follows March 23, starting at 6 pm at Canal and Chartres and continuing through the Quarter.
March 3 • Mid-City, Uptown, 11:45 am • Thoth, Uptown, noon • Bacchus, Uptown, 5:15 pm March 4 • Red Beans/ Dead Beans, Marigny/Mid-City, 2 pm • Proteus, Uptown, 5:15 pm • Orpheus, Uptown, 6 pm March 5 • Zulu, Uptown, 8 am • Rex, Uptown, 10 am
(TOP AND LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©CHERYL GERBER
WHERE NOW New
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Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed
Cane & Table
FOOD+DRINK
Noshing Under the Radar
(TOP) ©CANE & TABLE; (CENTER) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©THE VINTAGE
New Orleans’ food scene is a crown filled with gems both obvious and hidden. It’s those lesser-known spots, tucked into neighborhoods across town, that give heft to that headpiece. Here are a handful worth mining. A particularly interesting and delicious way to understand Louisiana’s foodways is through farmers’ markets. For some time, the Crescent City Farmers Market (crescentcityfarmersmarket.org) has been operating Tuesday mornings Uptown, Thursday late-afternoons in Mid-City and Saturday mornings in the Warehouse District. The scene recently expanded, with a new Wednesday market in Bywater near Crescent Park (p. 40) and a Friday market at Bucktown Harbor along the lakefront. Both take place from 3 to 7 pm, and are excruciatingly close to iconic restaurants with everything from pizza to po’ boys. Just off Metairie Road behind Nor-Joe’s (an incredible Italian market and eatery), Kelly Mayhew, a reformed fine-dining chef now baker extraordinaire, throws open the window of his Mayhew Bakery (131 Nursery Ave., Metairie, 843.814.3020). From 1 to 6 pm Mondays and Fridays, he retails jaw-dropping baguettes, specialty breads, pastries, cookies and what-
ever he damn well pleases. There are other former whitetablecloth chefs keeping their skills razor-sharp in smaller, more low-key spaces. On the French Quarter side of the river, chef Alfredo Nogueira (formerly of Publican in Chicago) explores his Cuban roots at Cane & Table (p. 22), with Havana-inspired dishes dotting both the dinner and brunch menus. Across the Mississippi, world cuisines and American comfort foods are the playground for chef Pete Vazquez, whose tiny (no seating) Appetite Repair Shop (p. 27) is just a quick ferry hop away. His place inspired chef Bob Iacovone’s cool micro-café, Iacovone Kitchen (5033 Freret St., 504.533.9742). Daily menus include stunning handmade pastas, soups and more. There is a small amount of seating for dining in and lots of opportunities for killer peoplewatching. More than diamonds in the rough, these hidden dining gems complete New Orleans’ culinary crown. —Lorin Gaudin
CLESI’S Traditional New Orleans dishes, a few fusion items and boiled seafood form the foundation of this casual Mid-City spot. Grab a pile of napkins and order a messy roast beef po’boy or go wild with the carb-bomb Jambalaya Cheese Fries. A classic meal is the way to go: gumbo, some boiled seafood (whatever is in season), fried seafood, onion rings and sweet bread pudding. It’s can’t-miss good. 4323 Bienville St., 504.909.0180 ESPIRITU In the middle of a quiet Warehouse district block, between Camp and Magazine streets, there is mezcal and Mexican food. Go heavy on the avocado options with a properly tart, salty and creamy guacamole, topped (or not) with “chipulines” (dried grasshoppers), and the stuffed avocado that pairs tender chunks of avo and octopus. End with straight shots of smoky mezcal and cinnamonsugar-dusted churros to dunk in spiced, melted chocolate. 520 Capdeville St., 504.267.4975
QUE RICO New Orleans is experiencing a bit of Cuban food moment. At Que Rico, the dining room is simply appointed, with good energy, and the menu follows suit. This is Cuban food 101. Best options include tender roasted pork (lechon asado) with garlicky sourorange sauce; ham croquetas; Bistec a la Palomilla (thin strip steak with sautéed onions); the Medianoche sandwich; and two really interesting vegan options: a Vegan Cubano and Cauliflower Criolla. A sweet cafecito (Cuban coffee demitasse) goes well with the dense cinnamon flan. 4200 Magazine St., 504.827.1398 —LG
Espiritu
ON THE SIDE Long ago there was a local pub called Audubon Tavern II, where the feature was late-night burgers, cheese-covered steak fries and easy-drinking American beer. Heaven. Call it nostalgic food memory, there’s something special about foods and places that operate with an old-school attitude. The Vintage (3121 Magazine St., 504.324.7144) lives that what’s-old-is-new-again life. The concept is simple—coffee, beignets, spirits and bites—casual, comfortable and delicious. Bringing basic back, the menu offers AT2’s Cheese Fries with Miller ponies. Put on some chinos and Sperry topsiders, hit a show at a local music venue, then pop by The Vintage and relive that ’70s/’80s coed life with beer and cheese fries...and maybe a Negroni or two. Vintage is cool. —LG 17
the guide Dining March Four Food Fests to Devour Visitors will find a variety of food-focused fetes to sink their teeth into this month. Agave Week (nolaagaveweek.com) takes place March 10-14 at the Ace Hotel, offering mescal and tequila tastings and agave-paired dinners at area eateries. The fun affair culminates with the Top Taco Festival (toptaconola.com), which features chefs and mixologists from 40-plus restaurants at Woldenberg Park. Brown liquor lovers will want to imbibe in the New Orleans Bourbon Festival (neworleansbourbonfestival.com) March 20-23, the highlight of which is a speakeasy-style shindig showcasing top-shelf booze and top-tier chefs. But the big pig-out takes place March 29-30 at the UNO Lakefront Arena Grounds, where Hogs for the Cause (hogsforthecause.org, shown) pits 85 barbecue teams from around the region, while 22 bands perform.
THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic
homage to wartime classics, this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie served in the bag, meatloaf with garlic-mashed potatoes and “Victory Garden” carrot cake. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.ww2eats. com. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. Sister to St.
Roch Market, this bright, modern food hall offers a variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. $ B, L, D (daily). www.auctionhousemarket. com. 801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321. Map 3, C6 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the
catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish or crispy-skin salmon with seafoodwakame salad. $$$ D (nightly). www.briquette-nola. com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the
standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this 18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5
evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pickled pineapple tartar sauce, spiced pig ears with smoked aioli and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6
COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be
COPPER VINEAmerican. Along with 30 varietals on
“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7
tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with duck fat fries. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coppervinewine.com. 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4
COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s
award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; housemade mayo and pickles; fresh-baked buns. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St.
Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is
COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French
bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hangar steak Bordelaise and moules frites. Do not skip the chocolate-draped profiteroles. $$$ B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). www.couvant.com. 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 1, D5 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-
ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum,
©HOGS FOR THE CAUSE
Central Business/ Warehouse District
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63. RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h. Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).
Josephine Estelle Southern fare, the Italian way
Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................18
Central City.........................................................................................21 French Quarter.........................................................................................21 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 25 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................25 Mid-City..........................................................................................................25 Uptown..........................................................................................................26 Other Locations......................................................................................27
600 Carondelet St 504.930.3070 @josephineestelle josephineestelle.com
banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom
tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace
Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5
Indulge
in Family Traditions at Antoine’s Restaurant for Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch!
MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta ex-
pands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space e. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining
venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants.com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-
ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
504-581-4422 www.a ntoines.com 713 Rue Saint Louis New Orl ea ns, LA 70130
DINING
www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is
known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New
York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net,
serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chef Kelly
Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory sides as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4
Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue
and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (daily). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian
restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups creates
museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons, offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su). www. toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3
French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the
name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s
is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining
rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, Oysters Bienville and Café Brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old
Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 THE BOMBAY CLUB Louisiana. Chef Phillip Todd’s
European-inspired Louisiana cuisine is a perfect fit for this swanky spot tucked into the Prince Conti Hotel. Cultures combine in dishes such as boudin Scotch eggs and Abita beer-battered fish and chips. Great cocktails and live music nightly. $$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.bombayclubneworleans. com. 830 Conti St., 504.577.2237. Map 3, F4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21
THE GUIDE
BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to
Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Under the helm of execu-
tive chef Slade Rushing, this legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in
1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro turns out longpopular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s
signature pastry and all-day breakfast, this trio of casual cafés serves up small bites in a Big Easy atmosphere. Dive into Cajun classics, such as jambalaya and gumbo, while enjoying live music and libations. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent
City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ Open 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant
provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as ropa vieja and crispy ribs with pepper jelly-papaya glaze. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery
is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). www.centralgrocery.com. 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French
Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ Br, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine
with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
OPEN MARDI GRAS DAY!
Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com Now Serving Lunch Book reservations through Open Table.
DINING
L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An
upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-
house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan. com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at
this pretty French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). Famished? Hangar steak with eggs and Lyonnaise potatoes should do the trick. $ B, L (daily). www.toastneworleans.com. 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3, H5 FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee. Named for the
vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first microroaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. $ Open daily. www.frenchtruckcof-
fee.com. 221 Chartres St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, A7; 4536 Dryades St., 504.298.1115. Map 1, D4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s
has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues cre-
ates adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate gem. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com. 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has
taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,
filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items
on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic
and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. $$ D (M-Sa). www.irenesnola.com. 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on
Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.theitalianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-
inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design (smoked mirrors, antiques, neon, a DJ station). But the menu is full-on French: steak tartar, tuna Niçoise salad, duck confit, moules frites and a 40-oz. coté de boeuf that can easily feed three. $$$ D (nightly). www.justinenola.com. 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-
personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.
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THE GUIDE
His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-
the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been
satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. Tiki guru Jeff “Beach-
bum” Berry’s seriously cool, new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs and Hawaiian Cuban sandwiches. $$ L (F-Sa), D (daily). www.latitude29nola.com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic. A proper gastropub
with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. Pork belly home fries, fried calamari with blistered tomatoes and charred lemons and hefty steak sandwiches with roasted mushrooms will make you linger a while. $ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.longwaytavern.com. 719 Toulouse St., no phone 504.962.9696. Map 3, G4 MANOLITO Cuban. A taste of Cuba in the heart of
the French Quarter. Pressed Cuban sandwiches, tender ropa vieja and shrimp ceviche are top food picks. Pair with a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. $$ L (W-Su); D (nightly). www.manolitonola. com. 508 Dumaine St., no phone. Map 3, H4 MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards
tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ D (nightly); Br (Su). www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is
another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (MSa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking
Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never
slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.
Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank Viet-
namese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter
bistro recently received a full makeover. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for tablesampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oysterand-brie pot pie. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former
Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-
rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?
Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this
très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade. com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed
chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance
meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dan-
gle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.sylvainnola. com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit
Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro
DINING
offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage
to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5
Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved
turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix
traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contempo-
rary space in the tony Ponchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think tableside Caesers of kale and cauliflower or squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. $$$ L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). www.jackroserestaurant.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4 MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Breakfast. The sandwich
gurus behind Turkey and The Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas, roasted-carrot yogurt—expect the unexpected. $ B (W-M). www.mollysriseandshine.com. 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for
the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are
the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab-boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4
Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail
shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.
Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BYWATER AMERICAN BISTROAmerican. The menu
at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy and jasmine rice; try the rabbit curry. $$ D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.bywateramericanbistro.com. 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-
ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real
good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.elizabeths-restaurant.com. 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3 NOLA CANTINA Mexican. Tacos, tacos and more
tacos, filled with everything from fried oysters to cauliflower. Other menu highlights include Ecuadorian-style shrimp ceviche, whole roasted fish, chicken or grilled rib eye and top-shelf margaritas. $$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.nolacantina.com. 437 Esplanade Ave., 504.266.2848. Map 3, J5 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking
New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria
grew so popular that it now has its own brickand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelicious.com. 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this
long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3
Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and
Philip Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the barbecued pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu, get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 MANDINA’S Italian. This local treasure, established
in 1932, still hums with full-flavored fried trout almandine, veal Parmesan, golden-brown shrimp, tender pork chops and perhaps the best roast beef po’ boy in the Gulf South. Nothin’ says N’awlins like Mandina’s perfect bread pudding with soft raisins.
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THE GUIDE
$$ L, D (daily). www.mandinasrestaurant.com. 3800 Canal St., 504.482.9179. Map 1, D2 PIECE OF MEAT Deli. The menu at this petit butcher
shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. Grab a pint of smoked chicken salad from the take-away fridge. $ L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.pieceofmeatbutcher.com. 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289. Map 1, D3
KRYSTAL CUSTOM BREAKFAST 3 EGG BREAKFAST & BEVERAGE
5.99
$
RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-
rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2
NEW BREAKFAST HOURS: MONDAY – FRIDAY 6:00AM – 11:00AM SATURDAY – SUNDAY 6:00AM – 12:00PM
1000 FIGS Mediterranean. Classic falafel sand-
wiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups is
known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3
BOURBON AT CANAL
Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-
generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4
* Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness, especially if you have a medical condition.
BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for an off-the-
beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www.boucherie-nola. com. 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3
Home of the Original
BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP
BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of Paul Prudhom-
me, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason
Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CASAMENTO’S Seafood. Open since 1919, this
Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for plump Gulf bivalves. $ L (Th-Sa), D (Th-Su). www.casamentosrestaurant.com. 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4 CAVANSouthern. This Victorian home’s “beautiful
deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before devouring the chicken
FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties
Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.
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11/5/09 10:14:49 AM
©2018 Copyright The Krystal Company. All rights reserved.
DINING
fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DEL FUEGO Mexican. Chef David Wright’s ramped-
up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during travels to Mexico. Housemade tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria. com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French
bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-
mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all
of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEYSouthern.
OPEN MARDI GRAS DAY!
Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot near Audubon Park. Start with the smoked fish dip on house-made saltines or melted pimento cheese and finish with cookie-dough s’mores. $ L, D (daily). www.nolapicnic.com. 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4 SABA Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a
taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices and hanger steak with celrey root, tabouleh and pomegranate. $$ L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.eatwithsaba. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with
contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. $$$ L (F-Sa), D (TuSa). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4
Other Locations THE APPETITE REPAIR SHOP Eclectic. From this
hard-to-find Algiers hole-in-the-wall, chef Pete Vazquez serves up delicious—and deliciously healthy—prepared foods to go. Grab some chicken curry, chickpea salad and a few veggie samosas, then picnic along the nearby levee. $ D (Th-Su). 400 Vallette St., 504.602.9990. Map 3, H8 DONG PHUONG Vietnamese. The menu at this
Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard. 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM
“Little Vietnam” restaurant is crammed with pho, noodle dishes and a variety of rice plates. But it’s the adjacent bakery that draws foodies from far and wide for what the New York Times has called the most authentic banh mi bread in the U.S. $ Open 9 am-4 pm (W-M). www.dpbanhmi.com. 14207 Chef Menteur Hwy., 504.254.0214. Map 1, G1 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27
THE GUIDE
Shopping
Spring Refresher
Big Easy Blooms
Slough off winter and rejuvenate for spring at one of the city’s many spas. The Spa at Windsor Court (windsorcourthotel.com/spa, shown) makes you feel like visiting royalty with its Regal Retreat, which includes a dry body brush and scrub, a steam shower and an 80-minute aromatherapy massage, while the Spa at the Ritz-Carlton (p. 32) incorporates notes of absinthe, cypress, moss and vetiver in its spellbinding Voodoo Ritual. The elegant Waldorf-Astoria Spa (p. 32) encourages couples to “share the bliss” with a dual massage in a private suite. For an extra-extravagant experience, add on a bottle of bubbly, chocolate truffles and an additional half hour of pampering.
Want to bring a bit of Fat Tuesday festivity back home with you? The Carnival Collective, a group of independent artists who help create Mardi Gras’ rolling masterpieces, lets you via float-scale flowers. You’ll find the colorful, one-of-a-kind, papier-mâché pieces available at Miette (p. 30). Hey, mister—throw us a bouquet!
BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,
antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in
1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked
shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. www.gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better
place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this
local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big
on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl record-
ings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4
There’s a lot more going on this month . Visit us online:
QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek
shop, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4
wheretraveler.com
Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic
boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans
couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known
around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-
sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4
TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line
of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. www.tascperformance.com. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as
Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com. 829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain
hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it
THE FRENCH MARKET’s Mardi Gras Mask Market, featuring leading maskmakers from around the U.S., takes place March 1-4 along Dutch Alley. 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
(LEFT) ©WINDSOR COURT HOTEL; (RIGHT) ©THE CARNIVAL COLLECTIVE
Books & Music
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index Books & Records ................................................................................... 28
BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS
Clothing........................................................................................................ 28 Gifts & Collectibles............................................................................... 30 Gourmet Food & Spirits ........................................................ ........ 32 Health & Beauty/Spas ............................................................ ........ 32 Jewelry........................................................................................................... 32 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 32 Shoes................................................................................................................ 32 Special Services...................................................................................... 32
all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4
719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222
Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-
ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant
hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4
© 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved
Bungalow’s
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ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-
ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-
3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415
rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5
National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS
LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep
small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERYAustrian crystals, hand-tooled
leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. www.neworleansmask.com. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are
showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique. A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
UPCYCLED DESIGNER STADIUM BAGS
(504) 522-9222 719 Royal St New Orleans LA 70116 © Copyright 2017-Ronaldo Designer Jewelry, Inc-All rights reserved
In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church
V Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing V Religious Articles V Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org
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Metairie 3000 Severn Ave. 504.888.7080
French Quarter 539 Bienville St. 504.875.2929
Uptown 2109 Magazine St. 504.309.7702
www.Orleansshoes.com
THE GUIDE
SHOPPING
home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor
to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-
tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French
Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4
Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine
and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-
nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery
devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERSYou can catch a sugar
buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-
ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth
of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2
Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with
antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME“The oldest perfumer
in the South” lives on thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,
award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10
private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch
of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages and seaweed wraps—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www.neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3
Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear
boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,
St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to
Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature
line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-
nered a national following with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon
Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The
Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is
a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5
Malls/Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER Lakeside is conve-
niently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Lo-
cated along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features
some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5
Shoes JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”
This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 NOLA FOOT CANDYSweet treats for your feet.
Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. www.nolafootcandy.com. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”
offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4
Special Services PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother
with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa
provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these
centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7
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THE GUIDE
Galleries+Antiques
A Dreamer and a Doer
Real Gems
“It’s amazing, when you line everything up from the beginning and go through it, just how it all developed,” said the late artist George Rodrigue, when Where interviewed him in 2008 on the eve of a 40-year career exhibit. The Blue Dog master’s legacy (which includes three presidential commissions and being dubbed the “the Louisiana Rousseau” by France’s Le Figaro magazine) lives on at Rodrigue Studio (p. 38), which is celebrating its own 30-year mark with George Rodrigue’s American Dream. The ongoing exhibit spotlights each of the artist’s genres and periods, from early Cajun country landscapes and his famed Blue Dog paintings to later works in metal and chrome.
Missed Mardi Gras? You can still catch some really cool beads with a visit to Gallery 2 (p. 36), where you’ll find the surrealist assemblages of mixed-media artist Betsy Youngquist. Incorporating oddball doll parts and prosthetic glass eyes, the threedimensional works are encrusted with beads, crystals and other found objects.
ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’
leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contempo-
rary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers
contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is
home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,
sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is
the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www.mar-
tinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASS WORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
wheretraveler.com
This working artists’ studio features free demos by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver. Designs made in the studio are for sale. www.neworleansglassworks. com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space
spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including sculpture by Carole Eisner and photography by Debbie Fleming Caffery. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-
ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent
exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4
French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s
most extensive collection of fine art photographs
for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4
ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-
ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-
eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France
on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority
of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo.
ARTIST GEORGE RODRIGUE’S signed, 1995 Louis Armstrong/Blue Dog Jazzfest poster originally sold for under $100; it now fetches an easy four figures on eBay. 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
(LEFT) ©RODRIGUE STUDIO; (RIGHT) ©GALLERY 2
Central Business/ Warehouse District
THE GUIDE
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 34
French Quarter ...................................................................................... 34 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................38 Collectives......................................................................................39 Other Locations......................................................................................39
com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY This tiny shop offers one of the
largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, along with other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CALICHE & PAO GALLERY Caliche and Pao’s
studio and showroom is home to the husbandand-wife team’s vivid, thickly textured oil paintings of local architecture. 312 Royal St., 504.588.2846. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European
paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and
regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here. Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig
Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 CREASON’S FINE ART GALLERY Artist-owner Greg
Creason’s vibrant “modern art with a traditional flair” shares wall space with with contemporary works by Harry Mayronne, Darrell George, Tracy Jarmon, Mary Pat Wallen and others. www. creasonsfineartgallery.com. 831 Chartres St., 504.345.2243. Map 3, H4 ELLIOTT GALLERY Fine contemporary and modern
art from world-renowned artists is the standard here. Artists represented include Theo Tobiasse, James Coignard, Max Papart, Nissan Engel, Garrick Yrondi, Picasso, Miró and Chagall. www.elliottgallery.com. 540 Royal St., 504.523.3554. Map 3, G4 FISCHERGAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing
in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and interesting home accents. www.lightingneworleans.com; www.fischergambinoneworleans.com. 637 Royal St., 504.524.9067. Map 3, G4
36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning
photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes,” which have been featured in National Geographic and The New York Times, are counted among the permanent collections of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the New Orleans Museum of Art and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this
shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre
assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy
Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will
be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GALLERY RINARD This contemporary gallery
features colorful originals and limited-edition serigraphs by artist-owner Matt Rinard, as well as Robert Guthrie’s watercolors and whimsical pet portraiture by Georg Williams. galleryrinard.com. 611 Royal St., 504.522.6536. Map 3, H4 GRAPHITE GALLERYSeeking something cutting-
edge and cool? This is the place. Works by emerging and mid-career artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw at this contemporary space, which also features upand-coming local talents. www.graphitenola.com. 936 Royal St., 504.565.3739. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,
Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for
heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-
room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,
family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in
pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.522.3305. Map 3, F4 JAMIE HAYES GALLERY The colorful works of
artist and children’s book author Hayes have been said to capture “the true spirit of New Orleans,” and acquired by such famous collectors as Robin Williams, k.d. lang and Muhammad Ali. Original paintings, prints and fun gift items are featured. www.jamiehayes.com. 617 Chartres St., 504.596.2344. Map 3, G4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this off-
beat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, jazz-themed pottery, bottle-cap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-
lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KEZIC GALLERY Diego Lukezic is triple talented.
Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog” series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com. 337 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in
international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning
porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in
objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick
Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family
business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the
nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural
renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes.
Hanging The Moon and Stars, 34” x 27”, Embroidery & Fabric Appliqué
THE ART OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU
Antieau Gallery • New Orleans 927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com
OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM
THE GUIDE
www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-
rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,
which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this
Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,
Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 PHOTO WORKS This gallery showcases the work of
photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”
by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark
is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SCENE BY RHYS“New Orleans music inked into
art,” is the adage of artist Emilie Rhys, who you’ll likely spot sketching away in a local club. Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. www.scenebyrhys.com. 708 Toulouse St., 504.258.5842. Map3, G4 TANNER GALLERY & STUDIO Home to local artist
Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.” Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,
this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works
in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contem38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
porary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, in addition to sculpture by Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4
Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the
works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver
flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one. Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 B.FOS GALLERY“I gather inspiration from all
corners of this wild, beautiful and colorful city,” says local artist Becky Fos, which is reflected in her vibrant oil works. Using her palette and fingers, Fos captures everything from pelicans and crawfish to musicians and Carnival parades. www.beckyfos. com. 2138 Magazine St., 504.544.2967. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local and
national artists, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. carolrobinsongallery.net. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s
leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 GUTHRIE CONTEMPORARY GALLERY Paintings,
photography and sculpture by both national and international artists is the focus here. www. guthriecontemporary.com. 3815 Magazine St., 504.897.2688. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This dealer scours Eu-
ropean estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18th- and 19th-century items from France and Italy. The inventory runs the gamut, from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www.kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into
this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 STUDIO SOLITARIO Monet, Hopper, Sargent:
Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies. Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past
decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the
6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t
New Orleans
Sun–Thu: 10–6 | Fri–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com
GALLERIES+ANTIQUES
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-
sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings. www.thomasmann. com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2111. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when
there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4
Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-
discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase
for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www. artscouncilofneworleans.org. 2299 Dublin St., 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This artist-run ven-
ue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www.dutchalleyartistsco-op. com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5
A free exhibition on view in the French Quarter through August 4, 2019 NEW ORLEANS
LA GUILD This showcase of juried craft arti-
sans from around the state and region features works in a wide range of media, from glass and wood to metal and clay. www.louisianacrafts. org. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 504.529.7633. Map 3, E5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym
that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories.. www.rhinocrafts. com. 20298 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4
Other Locations SOUNDS OF THE CITY
New Orleans music is not a genre but a story of diverse styles, influences, and musicians coexisting across history. In New Orleans Medley: Sounds of the City, The Historic New Orleans Collection leads visitors on a procession through three centuries of music in the Crescent City. Admission is free.
ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic
Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602 Map 3, G8 STUDIO BEArtist Brandan Odums’ evocative,
graffiti-style murals explore African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. www.ephemeraleternal.com. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3 WHERE Y’ART Love New Orleans art but don’t
410 Chartres Street
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have time to fully explore all of the city’s many galleries? Along with a brick-and-mortar space in the Marigny neighborhood, this local incubator offers a 24/7 virtual gallery featuring more than 100 area artists. www.whereyart.net. 1901 Royal St., 504.325.5672 Map 3, J4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39
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Entertainment
Cooking With Class
The Unmasked Singer
Bring a taste of New Orleans to your home kitchen by signing up for a Cajun/Creole cooking class. The New Orleans School of Cooking (p. 42, shown) offers twice-daily courses on jambalaya, pralines and other local dishes, which students get to enjoy afterward. Barbecue shrimp, etouffée and bananas Foster are on the how-to menu at Crescent City Cooks! (p. 40), while the recently opened New Orleans Culinary & Hospitality Institute (nochi.org) caters to visiting foodies with hands-on courses on the fundamentals of cheese, bread and soup-making, as well as classes on gumbo and seafood boils. Not in the mood to cook? Grab a bite at the in-house NOCHI Café.
Since she hit town in 2004, Aurora Nealand has proven something of an enigma: Is she a soprano sax-playing jazz vocalist, an accomplished cabaret performer, a progressive electronic-pop artist—or all of the above? See (and hear) for yourself, when she plays the Contemporary Arts Center (p. 44) March 29-31.
ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great
Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This
award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to
insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among
the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4
AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon view of the city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. Avenue elevator or climb the arching wheretraveler.com $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 footbridge at Piety and Chartres streets, ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open Tu-Su promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.audubonto the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or jogging and biking paths, a dog run and picture800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 perfect picnic areas. www.crescentparknola. org. Map 3, J6 CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interacthe dead” act as windows on the past, offering intive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, hour and you and your teammates “escape” the just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans fun) than that. A great activity for families and of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number group team-building. Reservations required. of her works there. Many are located in high-crime www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 day or night. CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush
canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 CRESCENT CITY COOKS! Learn the secrets of New
Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct twohour classes daily (10 am)—and taste the results afterward during lunch. Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a large selection of spices, culinary utensils and New Olreans-themed serving ware. www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600 Map 3, F4
FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market
dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is
located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6
THE DESIRE STREETCAR, made famous by Tennessee Williams’ “A Streetcar Named Desire,” was replaced by bus in 1948, the year the play won a Pulitzer Prize. 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
(LEFT) ©NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING; (RIGHT) ©AURORA NEALAND
Attractions & Landmarks
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Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.
Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................40 Cruises & Tours .......................................................................................44 Museums & Exhibits ..........................................................................44 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 48 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 48
JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was
originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-
trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. Map 3, F2
42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
LASER TAG OF METAIRIE Looking for high-energy,
adrenaline-pumping, family fun? This is the place. Between bouts of laser tag, go a few rounds on the bumper cars or try your hand at the 50-plus arcade games. Worked up an appetite? Dig into pizza, wings and more. Open daily. www.ltag.org. 8855 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.469.7475. Map 1, A2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year
long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $22 adults/ children, $17 seniors/students with college ID, $14 ages 11-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-
vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS
Just one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This
pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s
bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking
demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com. 524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the
oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately
red-brick townhouses flanking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Map 3, G5 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-
dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people
of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the his-
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toric Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in
1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-
enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the Mississippi River. Map 3, F6
Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas
of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can
glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative
double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided
bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour
Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce
leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280. FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours
depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. Tales & Tastes: Your Ultimate Food and 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
Cocktail Tour –Th-Su, 7 pm; call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour
walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a
variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Hurricane Katrina, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Walking, bus and boating tours all depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf. Call for tour information and reservations. www.graylineneworleans.com. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.
prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and
7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727. NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and
informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. 504.858.9988 Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese
guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANSThe city’s new-
est riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinners cruises are offered; explore Mardi Gras World as an optional stop. www.riverboatcityofneworleans.com. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs
daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). $25; under 12 free. Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of
Washington Ave.). $20; under 12 free. Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377. STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic
steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7
Museums & Exhibits BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a
former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL Established in
1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier
modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New
Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/
museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove
of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores the
history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open Tu-F, 1-4 pm; weekend tours by
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structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.” 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Second-floor exhibits trace the history of jazz in the city, from its inception to today. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.
The ONLY Non-Profit Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Preservation, Promotion, Restoration & Education.
NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-
ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6
SAVE $3 on a cemetery tour! Mention code: WHERE319 when you reserve. Call 504-525-3377 or visit www.saveourcemeteries.org
NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the
South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former
Tour Times 7 Days a ient n e , Noon, 3:00 Week nv pm 00 am : ! o 9 C
apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College
division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartmuseum. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most
comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open F-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM
Devoted to “the understanding and celebration 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
Reserve your seat NOW! Hotel Pick Up & Drop off
(504) 329-2489 www.VIPcitytours.com
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sis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open F-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM
Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3
Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic
cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft
beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www. theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to
Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St., 504.299.1888. Map 3, A7 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed
in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-
plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked
inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s menu. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play—
the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. The sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic
cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a massive
tap room and in-house barbecue make this a muststop for beer fans. www.nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSEA favored tavern of such
bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt 48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehousecom. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,
this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s
club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic
cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3
Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a
warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue
is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,
this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. Live music nightly. www.hotelmonteleone.com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the
Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts.. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.244.2543. Map 1, D3 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip
features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups
the live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. www.fillmorenola.com. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6 GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film
screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky music venue. A number of great restaurants are within walking distance. www.gasagasa. com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the
national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated
club features low cover charges and low attitude. Acts include both local favorites and big names;
the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the
Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz
landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene, with performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a
quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Make your own kind of music
at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind venue also hosts live performances. www.musicboxvillage.com. 4557 N. Rampart St. Map 1, E3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz
since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in
a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of
Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,
laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the night. www.spottedcatmusicclub.com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone
era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip space in the Ace Hotel
mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing local history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable
nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,
always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4
THE GUIDE
Navigate Praiseworthy
General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street. SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you. DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can. SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars. PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency. CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.
Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official
ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels. Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart
There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID). ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car. Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie. BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.
LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, which is due for completion in early summer. 50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
©GLGK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
A night out on Bourbon Street may suggest a town built on loose morals, but all it takes is a stroll through Jackson Square, the original heart of the city, to find New Orleans’ spiritual center. Since its founding in 1718, religion has played an important role in Crescent City life, as evidenced by the location of St. Louis Cathedral—the oldest active Catholic cathedral in the United States—which anchors the French Quarter (p. 51). The third church to occupy the site (a hurricane destroyed the first in 1722; the second burned in the Great Fire of 1788), the current building was completed during the 1850s. Today the cathedral continues to serve as the city’s holy high ground with Mass said daily and the church’s bells tolling every quarter hour.
N A V I G AT E
Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.
Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ......................................................................................51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore...............................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods ....................................................................................51 Transportation .......................................................................................50
CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial
corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or
Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-
est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern
TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,
particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater. Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102). WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-
ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.
Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi
River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian
shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center
of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5
styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by
Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one
of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the
banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as
Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district. Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest
African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”
adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-
nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-
ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego. English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4
Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often
think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org, www.cajuncountry.org. JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from
New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes. Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net. ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake
Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com. TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about
an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51
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The French Quarter is one of the nation’s oldest residential communities. Please treat this historic neighborhood with respect.
Q U A R T E R
WA L K I N G T O U R )9
Arc of Greater New Orleans (ArcGNO) recycles parade throws, trinkets & beads for resale through its Mardi Gras Recycle Center, which provides jobs for individuals with autism, Down syndrome or other developmental disabilities.
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THE GUIDE
Plantation Country Shades of the Past During the early 19th century, plantation homes lacked many modern amenities, but life along River Road was anything but dull and dreary. A number of historic homes that are now open to the public illustrate just how vibrant the era actually was. Take “Steamboat Gothic” San Francisco (shown), for example, with its myriad architectural influences, where skilled artisans were brought in to handpaint the ornate ceilings and faux-grain woodwork. Or Houmas House, the “Crown Jewel of River Road,” where the striking interiors mirror the gorgeous grounds, which provide a year-round riot of color. Laura reflects its Creole heritage with vivid exterior hues of ocher, red and blue, while antebellum homes erected by Americans, such as Nottoway (the “White Castle of Louisiana”) and Oak Alley, were typically painted white.
DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from
New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under. Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek
Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation. Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org. 4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837. HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS
Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.
There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:
OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available. by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property. Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org. 985.369.7151. 406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553. NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-
signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg. 12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.
SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,
built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under. Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-
RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain. 56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
©SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION
Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans
LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This
P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T RY
Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details. This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.
Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 56 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 56 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 57 Dining........................................................................................................... 58
franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect
Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com. 3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the
public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.
Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of
an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773. BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained
by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast. Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312. COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most
complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 57
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buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings. B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674. GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned
Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475. MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most
haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277. NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White
Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John
James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739. ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home
features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332. RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden
Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.
Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of
the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007. CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers
casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce
piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451. THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed
New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a
former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921. Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236.. GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art
gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.
PLANTATION TOUR S
LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-
tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant
offers sweeping views of the plantation’s oaks and seasonally inspired Cajun and Creole fare, with daily lunch and dinner specials. The bar, located in what was once the Randolph-family bowling alley, features classic Louisiana cocktails, local beers and an extensive wine list. B, L, D (daily); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring
Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite? Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.
One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience. Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans
FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095
or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org
T hrow them back & make a difference!
E veryone loves Mardi Gras but hauling heavy beads in your luggage is no fun. S o, why not give them back and make a huge impact on the city and many of its citiz ens? Arc of Greater New Orleans (ArcGNO) recycles parade throws, trinkets & beads for resale through its Mardi Gras Recycle Center, which provides jobs for individuals with autism, Down syndrome or other developmental disabilities.
THE GUIDE | MAPS
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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 1 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 5 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 t S Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 in e NA a v NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 Sp hA AveNine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 90 c n i l o kNO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 n R a Fr St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 6 OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 French Quarter SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 Jazzy Passes WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 1 day - $3 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 3 day - $9 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 8 31 day - 55 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Ride RTA buses WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 and streetcars as
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[WHERE INSIDE]
New Orleans Your Way
History Buffs
LGBTQ Visitors
Outdoors Lovers
Predating the city itself, the (1) French Market is the oldest public market in the U.S. The recently revamped open-air venue retains its historic ambiance, while offering a number of food stalls, fresh produce and souvenir items. There are dozens of “cities of the dead” to explore. If you can visit only one, make it St. Louis No. 1— which counts voodoo priestess Marie Laveau and (still-living) actor Nicolas Cage among its aboveground tombs—and make it with the nonprofit (2) Save Our Cemeteries, which helps fund restoration and preservation. The crumbling walls at the (3) Napoleon House hint at its early age (circa 1812). A warm muffuletta and an icy Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard make for a picture-perfect NOLA moment.
In June 1977 thousands gathered in (1) Jackson Square for the nation’s first protest against Anita Bryant’s anti-gay efforts; in June 2015 gays and lesbians once again congregated to celebrate the Supreme Court’s ruling on same-sex marriage. Just off Jackson Square is (2) Stanley, named for Marlon Brando’s character in Tennessee Williams’ “A Streetcar Named Desire.” Order the Eggs Stanley, then give your own shout-out to the playwright in front of 632 St. Peter Street, where he penned his masterpiece. Take a Vieux Carré cocktail for a spin at the revolving (3) Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone, where Williams was a regular, Liberace was first to tickle the ivories and Truman Capote claimed to have been conceived.
Set off on a high-speed (1) Airboat Adventures tour, which covers 20,000 acres of cypress swamp. Opt for a small-boat, early-morning outing, when the swamp is most picturesque and the wildlife is hungry for company. Ever petted a gator? You will. (2) New Orleans Jogging Tours let you work in a history lesson while jogging the city. The educational, two-hour treks start at the edge of the French Quarter then wind through the Central Business District and into the Garden District. As one the most bike-friendly cities in the U.S., New Orleans counts a number of two-wheel vendors. (3) Confederacy of Cruisers is among of the most popular, offering rentals as well as guided rides and cocktail/culinary excursions.
64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019
(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©NAPOLEON HOUSE; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©ART DE VIE/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©STANLEY; ©HOTEL MONTELEONE; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©AIRBOAT ADVENTURES; ©CHERYL GERBER; ©SHAWN FINK
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