Where Magazine New Orleans Nov 2018 by Morris Media Network

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

A TASTE OF PLACE Savoring the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s French flavor

EXPLORE MUSEUM EXHIBITS

NOVEMBER 2018

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New Orleans CONTENTS

11.18

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the plan

the guide 24

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

Karen Ford Concierge at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus a monthful of food festivals.

10 Editor’s Note

Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

Saints Home Games Three to see at the Superdome, Keith Urban, toasting the glories of the grape and 29 other entertainment ideas to add to your list.

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus paging New Orleans and NOLA-hued inks.

GALLERIES +

40 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus reimagined masterpieces and M.S. Rau.

44 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus holiday light shows and cricket pumpkin pie.

64 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for history buffs, luxury lovers and music fans. ON THE COVER

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

Profiteroles, topped with dark

A TASTE OF PLACE Savoring the city’s French flavor

chocolate sauce,

EXPLORE MUSEUM EXHIBITS

PLAY

SAINTS HOME GAMES

EAT

FALL FOOD FETES

from Couvant.

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus St. Louis Cathedral.

where now

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a colorful history.

14 Cuisine Scene

©ANDREW THOMAS LEE

NAVIGATE

NOVEMBER 2018

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300

N O L A

10/8/18 10:42 AM

A taste of place: French dining in the nation's most Francophone city.

16 Art + Culture

Must-see museum exhibits. CONNECT WITH US

17 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Cool steak tartare preparations, hot lunch spots and Napoleons rule.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z pages 61-63

(LEFT) ©DEBBY WONG/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (CENTER, TOP) ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©FOUNTAIN LOUNGE/ROOSEVELT HOTEL

XX 34 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Karen Ford Concierge at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Q: Where would you guide guests in search of French fare? A: Lilette (p. 33), for hanger steak and boudin noir; Meauxbar (p. 30), for sweetbreads and duck confit; and Vyoone’s (p. 27), a Warehouse District gem, for French onion soup and coq au vin. Q: Two new food festivals debut this month. Where are we most likely to find you, Wing Wars or Fete des Fromages? A: Fete des Fromages. I’m anticipating a really nice crowd of people who are interested in cheese, learning about cheese, trying cheese—the same way that people who like wine or beer get together to taste and discuss. Q: Which museum do you most often recommend? A: The Ogden (p. 50). It’s Southern art, it’s walkable from the hotel, it’s a nice, modern building and it has a great gift shop. Also the National WWII Museum (p. 48). Even though the subject matter might not appeal to some, it's still a world-class museum…and has an incredible gift shop as well.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©MEAUXBAR

Q: Name the one thing that has to be on your Thanksgiving table. A: Cornbread-and-oyster stuffing. Q: What do you love most about New Orleans? A: I tell guests all the time: the people. New Orleanians have this we’re-all-in-it-together attitude, whether it be the heat, the rain, the insanity, the joy, the celebration. Like before a Saints game; the electricity on the street is amazing! Meauxbar

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

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Where We Were

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10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. In celebration of the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 1995. That November the New Orleans Museum of Art mounted an exhibit honoring jazz legend Louis Armstrong, whose commemorative postage stamp was unveiled two months earlier at Armstrong Park. Earlier in the year Where produced the official Jazzfest program with “Blue Dog” artist George Rodrigue’s iconic Armstrong image on its cover. Sinbad, Queen Latifah and Bill Cosby hosted the inaugural Essence Festival; Sylvester Stallone, Bruce Willis and Demi Moore hit town for the opening of Planet Hollywood; Francis Ford Coppola, Helen Mirren, Delta Burke, Courtney Love and Trent Reznor all had homes here; and Where’s former Decatur Street digs became the short-lived Fashion Café. Ralph Brennan was elected president of the National Restaurant Association, Broussard’s turned 75 and Lucky Cheng’s touted “gracious service by Asian waitresses in drag.” Oak Alley Plantation was inducted into the Live Oak Society, Audubon debuted its five-story IMAX Theater, artist Robert Dafford’s 16-story clarinet mural appeared on the Holiday Inn Downtown and Where set “off on the superhighway of information” with the release of its “interactive multimedia experience” CD-ROM series. Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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HOT DATES

TOP STOPS 26 additional ideas worth entertaining. HOUSE OF BLUES Nov. 1: Danity Kane; Nov. 10: Bustout Burlesque; Nov. 20: Hive Mind; Nov. 23: PJ Morton. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583 JOY THEATER Nov. 2: Thievery Corporation; Nov. 4: Underoath; Nov. 8: Slightly Stoopid; Nov. 15: Postmodern Jukebox; Nov. 17: Lil Yachty; Nov. 23: The Last Waltz New Orleans. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569

NOVEMBER 4, 18 & 22:

Saints Home Games

Football fans get their fill this month with the New Orleans Saints playing three heated home games at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. On Nov. 4 the Black and Gold take on the Los Angeles Rams at 3:25 pm, before tackling reigning Super Bowl champs, the Philadelphia Eagles, Nov. 18 at noon. But the matchup Who Dats are most hungry for takes place Thanksgiving night, Nov. 22 at 7:20 pm, against arch-rivals, the Atlanta Falcons. (Insert gobble, gobble joke here.) Can’t score tickets? You can still get in on the game-day action with free, live entertainment at Champions Square beginning three hours prior to kickoffs. 1500 Poydras St.; 800.745.3000.

5 caption here Urban N.O. Int'l Wine Awards

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 KEITH URBAN > NOV. 2 With more than 20 No. 1 hits, 10 albums, 11-plus tours and numerous awards to his credit, Urban could easily rest on his laurels. Instead, he’s back on the road in support of his latest release, “Graffiti U.” Smoothie King Center, 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

2 SCHOOL OF ROCK > THROUGH NOV. 4 Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Tony-nominated Broadway adaptation of Richard Linklater’s Golden Globe-nominated film follows a downon-his-luck guitarist who doubles as a substitute teacher…and rocks it. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

3 N.O. INT’L WINE AWARDS > NOV. 8 This inaugural affair offers tastings of competing varietals from around the globe. Grab a glass and roam between Antoine’s, Arnaud’s, Brennan’s and Galatoire’s. nolainternationalwine.com

4 BAYOU CLASSIC > NOV. 2324 It’s hard to say which is more competitive: Grambling and Southern universities’ annual gridiron matchup or the fierce Battle of the Bands that proceeds it. Mercedes-Benz Superdome, 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

5 DAUGHTRY > NOV. 29 Proving you don’t have to win “American Idol” to win fans, the show’s fifth season finalist (and four-time Grammy nominee) pulls into the Mahalia Jackson Theater. 801 N. Rampart St., 800.745.3000

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

SAENGER THEATRE Nov. 6: Simple Minds; Nov. 9: Christina Aguilera; Nov. 17: Gary Owen; Nov. 20: August Greene; Nov. 23-25: Nine Inch Nails; Nov. 2730: “On Your Feet!” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Nov. 7: vs. Chicago Bulls; Nov. 10: vs. Phoenix Suns; Nov. 16: vs. New York Knicks; Nov. 17: vs. Denver Nuggets; Nov. 19: vs. San Antonio Spurs; Nov. 26: vs. Boston Celtics; Nov. 28: vs. Washington Wizards. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 TIPITINA’S Nov. 10: Dumpstafunk and Miss Mojo; Nov. 25: A Neville Family Groove. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477

(TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; (CENTER) ©DEBBY WONG/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BOTTOM) ©SENYUK MYKOLA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Nov. 26: Mac DeMarco. 4557 N. Rampart St.; musicboxvillage.com

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CUISINE SCENE

French Accents A taste of Paris on the other side of the pond—BY LORIN GAUDIN

Couvant’s salad Lyonnaise

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big part of the local dining equation is place. New Orleans’ French Quarter manages to feel singular and also like one of the countries that influenced its topography, architecture

and food: France. The Quarter looks and feels very French, and grande

Clockwise from left: Café brûlot prepared tableside at Arnaud’s; Galatoire’s spirited Friday lunch scene; Balise Tavern’s chicken confit with warm kale

dame dining is rooted in French cuisine with some Louisiana swagger. There has always been what locals call “French French” (versus Cajun French) restaurants offering dishes that pay strict homage to the classic cuisine: salade composée, fish en papillote, gratin, bisque, “mother sauces” (hollandaise, béchamel, velouté, espangole and tomato) and crème caramel, to name a few. Take a seat in the historic dining rooms of Antoine’s (p. 23), Arnaud’s (p. 23) and Galatoire’s (p. 25) and be transported to France via decor, food and flavor, never losing sight of being in New Orleans, her street sounds serving as a reminder. It’s stunning to be in one place that feels and tastes like itself and another—a delicious and soulful harmonic convergence. New Orleans’ unique, Old World backdrop brings it all together.

(TOP, FROM LEFT) ©ARNAUD’S, ©TODD COLEMAN/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©BALISE TAVERN; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©ANDREW THOMAS LEE/COUVANT

French French food is both a constant classic and, as they say, “à la mode” (of the moment), with culinary New Orleans revisiting the cuisine through a more contemporary lens, peeking over the shoulder to nod respectfully at the grandes dames while forging chic-ly forward. Chef Justin Devillier and wife Mia began their journey with their first restaurant, La Petite Grocery (p. 33), in 2004. The Uptown bistro is known for its French style with a soupçon of indigenous Louisiana—blue crab beignets, gnocchi Parisienne, steak tartare, panéed rabbit—that is very popular. That popularity, and a desire to do more, helped birth a second restaurant, Balise Tavern (p. 24), in Central Business District in 2015. A recent reboot of Balise Tavern’s lunch and dinner menu loudly displays a notable undercurrent of similarity between the two restaurants, which Devillier declares is him “settling into his style.” The new menu takes that “style” and gives it a cozy French pub vibe with Chicken Liver Mousse and jam to spread on biscuits, crabmeat gratin rich with Brie cream and Crispy Chicken Confit

and enjoy.” As for the menu, “Expect the unexpected,” he jokes.

with warm kale and a Tabasco-honey dressed potato salad.

“Actually, it’s really cool but I’m not telling...yet.”

Toward the end of 2018, keep a watchful eye and fork at the

Also very French French and new to the landscape is Cou-

ready for the Devilliers’ new French Quarter restaurant, Justine.

vant (315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400), located in the recently

So named for the way some French pronounce the chef’s first

opened Eliza Jane hotel (a Hyatt flag). On the “American” side of

name, Justine is a bold project, a complete reimagining of a for-

Canal Street (as opposed to the French Quarter side) in the Cen-

mer furniture store on the 200 block of Chartres Street, bringing

tral Business District, Couvant is a slick, contemporary French

pops of bright pink, texture, mod furnishings and neon art.

bistro helmed by chef Brad McDonald, a Mississippi native with

“There’s an old payphone on the wall near the bathrooms that we’re leaving in place,” Devillier says, talking about the quirk of the place. “You might want to pick up the handset; you

strong cooking chops, having worked for star chefs Alain Ducasse and Thomas Keller. In the short time Couvant has been open it has garnered a

never know what you might hear.” Describing the restaurant

lot of “oui, chef.” The menu reads like it comes direct from a Pari-

itself, he says, “Justine is a very Parisienne French-inspired bras-

sian bistro. There are classic starters like the Verrine of Chicken

serie. We want it to be a playful place for people to sink into

Liver Mousse with a sweet bite of caramelized onion aspic—the 15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans

works to be slathered on grilled country bread. Couvant’s tasty version of pissaladière veers from tradition by using a

ART+CULTURE

slice of bread as a base for caramelized onions and anchovy

Museum Quality

fillet, oddly omitting black olives, one of the dish’s three main

Four A+ exhibits to explore.

ingredients. A standout dish is the English Peas à la Francaise, which combines dusky peas, duck egg, lardons (wide-cut bacon), mint and the licorice hit of tarragon. There are classic salads of frilly frisée and tender butter lettuce, three choices of cut for steak frites and three versions of moules frites (mussels and fries). A rich red-wine sauce surrounds meat slices. The Mussels à la Normande pairs cider and crème fraîche with butter and shallots for depth, tartness and zing. Frites are crisp, neither too skinny nor thick, and hold up well when dragged through the mussel broth you’ll want to guzzle. Say yes to any of the desserts, and do not skip the dark chocolate-draped profiteroles or the creamy, earthy Pistachio Crème Brûlée with accompanying brown butter madeleines.

“We Love You, New Orleans”

Specialty cocktails have an interesting Francophile flair, too. It’s easy to lose track of time and place in New Orleans’ French food menagerie, as both old-line and “jeune-gens” restaurants evoke an otherworldliness with true taste of place amid the European-style backdrop of the Crescent City. Listen close for the special sounds only New Orleans offers to know precisely where you are. What you’re eating might be found in Paris or New Orleans. C’est la vie en la Nouvelle-Orléans.

From top: The elegant entrance to Couvant; chef Justin Devillier’s panéed rabbit with spaetzle, wilted greens, turnip purée and sauce grenobloise at La Petite Grocery

THE CABILDO Bits and pieces of the past combine for a 300-year love letter in the Louisiana State Museums’ We Love You, New Orleans, which features more than 100 artifacts spotlighting various aspects of Crescent City culture, from architecture (the construction of the Superdome) and amusements (Dorothy Lamour’s 1931 “Miss New Orleans” sash) to food (a Galatoire’s “keep bottle”) and music (Kid Ory’s trombone). Jackson Square, 504.568.6968 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER Opening Nov. 3, Labor Studies chronicles four decades of the city’s workforce (sugar cane harvesters, dockhands, hospitality workers) through the lens of local photographers Keith Calhoun and Chandra McCormick. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800

“New Southeren Photography”

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART During his lifetime, the city’s namesake, Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, amassed close to 800 paintings, which included some of the most important works in the history of art. Culled from leading art institutions around the globe, The Orléans Collection brings a number of the masterpieces together again for the first time. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100

“The Orléans Collection”

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Regional talent, both established and emerging, is the focus of New Southern Photography. The Ogden’s largest photographic exhibition to date provides exposure for 25 contemporaries who are broadening the picture of life in the South. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650

(TOP LEFT) ©ANDREW THOMAS LEE/COUVANT; (BOTTOM LEFT) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/LA PETITE GROCERY; (TOP RIGHT) ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS; (RIGHT CENTER) ©NOMA; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

the Hanger Steak Bordelaise, a plate of juicy, deep ruby-colored

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LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans

(TOP) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER, LEFT) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300). Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

Paying respects at the city’s aboveground cemeteries on All Saints’ Day (Nov. 1).

Viewing life on the Mississippi from the Port of New Orleans’ (p. 46) swing sets tucked beneath Crescent City Connection bridge.

Antoine’s (p. 27) 14 themed dining rooms; ask for a tour after dessert.

3 4

The century-old Orpheum Theater’s applause-worthy restoration (orpheumnola.com).

Two-wheeled tours of the town.

16 17

Playing the ponies during Thanksgiving Day races at the New Orleans Fair Grounds.

5 6

Pat O’Brien’s (p. 50) flaming fountain and blow-you-away Hurricane cocktails.

Red beans and rice—a Monday meal tradition.

New Orleans Museum of Art’s outdoor sculpture garden (p. 50).

The Holy Cross neighborhood’s twin “steamboat houses” (400 and 503 Egania St.), built for a riverboat captain and his son.

19 20

Pigging out on praline bacon at Elizabeth’s (p. 31).

Dining on 19th-century china from Lucullus, the nation’s first culinary antiques shop (p. 42).

Area artists showcasing their works on the black iron fence surrounding Jackson Square.

The Napoleon House’s warm muffulettas (p. 30).

French Quarter street poets who whip up on-the-spot sonnets.

Slurping our way around Armstrong Park during the Jazz and Heritage Foundation’s Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival (p. 24).

Turducken—a chicken tucked inside a duck wedged inside a turkey, each stuffed with a different dressing—served on Thanksgiving eve at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen (p. 30).

Nabbing a front row seat— on the floor—at Preservation Hall (p. 50).

The Bayou Classic’s annual Battle of the Bands & Greek Show (p. 12).

Catching the Carnival spirit long after the parades have passed with a tour of Mardi Gras World (p. 44).

Oysters Goodenough at Carrollton Market (p. 32), good enough for a double order.

The scent of sautéed garlic wafting out of Irene’s and down Bienville Street (p. 29).

Exploring charming Algiers Point, the city’s secondoldest neighborhood (p. 53).

Watching the powdered sugar blizzard from the rear window at Café Du Monde (p. 28)

Sunset (and sunrise) strolls along the Mississippi riverfront. 17

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and on the lunch menu

La Petite Grocery FOOD+DRINK

Steak-ing Their Claim As a teen, I fell in love with steak tartare during a trip to France with my grandmother. Our first day abroad, at a tiny café, she ordered us steak tartare and a carafe of red wine. The tartare was prepared tableside—ice-cold minced raw beef, egg yolk, Dijon mustard, capers and seasonings, quickly mixed with a fork and eaten on fat slabs of crusty country bread—and it was astounding. Beef tartare is still among my favorite foods and, luckily, easily found on New Orleans menus. Chef Jonathan Lomonaco’s tartare at Patois (p. 33) is a treasure. The beautiful minced beef is tossed with shallot, olive oil, Chinese hot yellow mustard and salt, topped with a soy-cured egg yolk, garnished with more mustard, sliced jalapeños and radishes and served with rice crackers dusted with “furikake” (a Japanese seasoning blend of dried seaweed, fish flakes, sesame, etc.). This brilliant combination beautifully marries culture and cuisine in flavors and texture. At seafood-centric Pêche (p. 27) beef is not given short shrift. Order the steak tartare appetizer, which is given a boost from the addition of oyster aioli. The briny flavor of the oyster likker offers lovely contrast to the beef, herbs and all. A good amount of tartare

tops a thick slice of country bread, making an excellent snack before diving deep into mains. La Petite Grocery’s (p. 33) tartare has been a menu staple since the restaurant’s early days. Chef Justin Devillier smartly keeps the amount of rich tartare under control, prettily plated, and always varies some element to keep diners on their toes. The dish routinely gets its bite from horseradish and buttermilk, but in the current iteration support comes via toasty-tasting quinoa, and the pickled quail egg is a fun twist. The idea of raw beef may be daunting, but in the hands of culinary masters, steak tartare can become a passion and a craving well-met in New Orleans restaurants. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

CAPULET A charming Bywater space with a rooftop terrace provides the backdrop for breakfast and lunch dining with a creative sandwich list with unique fillings. The Bloody Mary Beef combines braised meat with all the flavors of the cocktail classic—tomato-horseradish aioli, roasted tomato, pickled green beans and celery slaw—on rye. There is also a Mixed Vegetablewich of coconut-eggplant purée garnished by cucumbers, greens, Thai basil, roasted bell peppers and pickled onion on baguette. 3014 Dauphine St., 504.507.0691 FOUNTAIN LOUNGE Nothing is nicer than an elegant, historic hotel with approachable dining. The Roosevelt Hotel’s Fountain Lounge parlays new lunch service and its 125th anniversary with a stunning menu priced for the hotel’s founding year, $18.93. Choose three items from the extensive list; we go for

the Shrimp Remoulade, Curried Chicken Lettuce Wrap and Twelve Layer Banana Tart. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200 PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY At this casual, color-riotous corner restaurant near Audubon Park, the menu centerpiece is Crawfish Boil Hot Fried Chicken (get the sandwich stacked with fried thighs, mirliton pickles and lemon mayo on steamed, buttered and griddled brioche), and there’s also fabulous Louisiana seafood, etc. We’re hooked on the fish dip with house saltines, gooey Tumbled Pimento Cheese and, wait…did someone say Campfire Cookie Dough S’mores? Yes, they did. 741 State St., 504.266.2810 —LG

Fountain Longue

ON THE SIDE Given this month’s French theme, the obvious side dish is something decadent, sweet and elegant: a Napoleon. Go with a classic rendition from La Boulangerie (p. 33); two layers of divinely rich pastry cream and three layers of crisp, buttery, flaky mille feuille (1000-leaf) puff pastry with poured white and brown fondant icing, combed to create a marbled pattern. Try my standing order at La Boulangerie: Pan Bagnat (tuna, fine anchovies, hard-cooked egg, lettuce, onion and salted butter on olive baguette) with a Napoleon on the side. A glass of bubbles (water or champagne), the salty tartine and the cold, creamy, crunchy, silky Napoleon ticks all the boxes. Don’t judge me. C’est magnifique. —LG

(TOP) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/LA PETITE GROCERY; (CENTER) ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL; (BOTTOM) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

WHERE NOW New

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GIFT GUIDE

Holiday Hits Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, that special something for that special someone? Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.

PORTER LYONS The Zodiac Collection- Give your loved ones the gift of the stars. Solid 14K Gold & Kimberly Certified (Conflict Free) diamonds float creating each Zodiac constellation, a unique and personal present this holiday season. Available in yellow, white and rose gold necklace and earrings. (Pictured: Capricorn). Find us at our flagship store at 631 Toulouse St., French Quarter; www.porterlyons.com.

RALPH BRENNAN RESTAURANT GROUP Grab your autographed copies of the award winning Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook, A Topsy, Turvy History of New Orleans & Ten Tiny Turtles, along with The Original Brennan’s Cookbook online at www.neworleans-food.com/shop

QUEORK This women’s wallet is made using REAL CORK! The outer fabric is sealed with silicone making it durable like leather, water resistant and easy to clean with a damp cloth. $65 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910, www.queork.com

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Remember your time in New Orleans year after year with a keepsake ornament. These hand-blown glass ornaments come in multiple designs, each capturing a different aspect of the city’s colorful culture. Item shown is $45. Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tue–Sat, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Sun, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop

20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V M E B E R 2018

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ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Watch masters of the ancient art create, quality, affordable blown glass in the only New Orleans year-round studio. Located in an award-winning restored Art Deco movie theater and rated #2 art gallery on Tripadvisor. “Blow Your Own” sessions and group parties available. 446 Vallette, Historic Algiers Point, New Orleans, 70114 Open M-F 10-5, call for Saturday hours. 504 366-3602 www.rosetreegallery.com

VINTAGE 329 Specializing in barware from the 50s & 60s. Pictured: Scandinavian Etched Cordial, Culver Red Paisley Old Fashioned, Fred Press red & gold cordial, Culver Red Paisley Tumbler, Pink & Blue “Wet Your Whistle” Swizzle Sticks, Culver Valencia Pitcher, Georges Briard Firenze Tumbler, Culver blue, green & gold juice glass, Mosaic gold, blue & green cordial. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Like the original, but with a little lagniappe! Crafted from stainless steel, these Corkcicle stemless, insulated wineglasses keep drinks hot or cold, but only the ones from The Shop at The Collection include this handsome pelican engraving. Designs are also available with Louisiana irises. $29 each. Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tue–Sat, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Sun, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop

NOLA BOARDS Add some New Orleans flavor to your kitchen with these handmade cutting boards, kitchen accessories, barware, cocktail tinctures, magnetic knife holders, foodie jewelry, and much more! Can’t carry it back home? They ship! November/December POP UP at 4304 Magazine Street, 519 Wilkinson St. Suite 105, 505-435-1485, www.nolaboards.com

BEVOLO GAS AND ELECTRIC LIGHTS The Governor Pool House Lantern from Bevolo, can be used to fill the night with a soft candlelight glow, display seasonal items, or your favorite collections. Available in antique copper or stainless steel. 304/316/318 Royal St. French Quarter, Bevolo.com

Holiday Hits

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NEW ORLEANS RUM Gris Gris Cayenne Liqueur: created on Frenchmen Street in the summer heat. Pour a little charm in your glass. From Celebration Distillation, producers of Old New Orleans Rum and Gingeroo. Available at our distillery and coming soon to stores. 2815 Frenchmen St., 504-945-9400, oldneworleansrum.com

ADORN & CONQUER Adorn & Conquer, local and national artists. There’s something unique for everyone, ranging from $10-$600. Jewelry Artists are working in house, stop by and say hello! 2727 Prytania St, inside The Rink Shopping Center, Suite 6, 504.702.8036, www.adornandconquer.com ‘Iko, Iko’ - by Maria Fomich Cuffs $125-$550 Silver and brass cuff, featuring the sound wave of ‘Iko Iko’. The piece is a part of a series called ‘Heart Beat of the City’ showcasing our favorite New Orleans music.

HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL NEW ORLEANS Worn worldwide, the Hard Rock collection is like no other. This eclectic shop carries a variety of authentic Hard Rock merchandise such as Pins and Tees and unique to New Orleans designs. 125 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70130, www.hardrock.com/cafes/new-orleans/

FLEUR D’ORLEANS The Designers at Fleur d’ Orleans have created hundreds of jewelry and gift designs inspired by the architectural treasures of New Orleans. At the heart of the French Quarter the Cabildo (1795) was the seat of government during the colonial period. These unique earrings, inspired by a wrought iron balustrade on the Cabildo, celebrate New Orleans’ design heritage and history. 14KT gold plated earrings $50. Visit Fleur d’Orleans in the Quarter or on Magazine Street: 818 Chartres / 3701a Magazine 504.899.5585 / 504.475.5254

22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 20 18

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MARDI GRAS WORLD, LLC Mardi Gras World not only gives you an authentic Mardi Gras experience year-round, it boasts a unique shop full of Louisiana treasures like these small decorative throw pillows featuring three fun Creole Cottage designs, all by a local artist. Measures approximately 10-inch square - $20 each. Mardi Gras World is located at 1380 Port of New Orleans Place, New Orleans, La 70130, www.MardiGrasWorld.com

ANTIEAU GALLERY Antieau Gallery showcases the work of nationally recognized, New Orleans fabricappliquĂŠ artist Chris Roberts-Antieau. As a self-taught Visionary artist, Antieauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work tells stories of nature, perception, and above all, the human experience. See her impeccably stitched works at her gallery in the French Quarter at 927 Royal Street (open daily, 10am to 8pm) or Uptown at 4532 Magazine Street (open Mon-Sat, 10am to 6pm), (504) 304-0849, antieaugallery.com

BEATRIXBELL HANDCRAFTED JEWELRY Beatrixbell Handcrafted Jewelry & Gift is a design studio located on the banks of the Mississippi River in historic Algiers Point, only blocks from the ferry landing. Featuring their namesake jewelry line as well as local art, Louisiana made gifts, and other curated treasures. Modern and fresh, these geometric earrings are created with mixed metals, luscious patinas and semi precious stones. 14 karat gold dipped ear wires. 337 Morgan Street, Suite A 504-507-0955, beatrixbell.com

VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262

the guide Dining November A Fall Feeding Frenzy There’s more than turkey on the menu this month. The state’s signature sausage is the star of Boudin, Bourbon & Beer (boudinbourbonandbeer.com) Nov. 9 at Champions Square. Celebrated chefs from around the nation take part in the Emeril Lagasse Foundation fundraiser, as top-tier bands perform. Sandwich cravings are sated Nov. 11 during the Oak Street Po-boy Festival (poboyfest.com), where dozens of vendors (such as Red Fish Grill, shown) serve up creative takes. Gumbo is the get Nov. 17-18 at the Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival (jazzandheritage.org/treme-gumbo) in Armstrong Park, while chicken is the order at the inaugural Wing Wars (nolawingwars.com) Nov. 17 at Central City Barbecue. Cheese lovers will fall for Fete des Fromages (fetedesfromages.com) Nov. 17 at the U.S. Mint, where they’ll find more than 100 types, from French to Wisconsin.

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie served in the bag, meatloaf with garlic-mashed potatoes and onion rings and “Victory Garden” carrot cake. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.ww2eats.com. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. Sister to St.

Roch Market, this bright, modern food hall offers a wide variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. $ B, L, D (daily). www.auctionhousemarket. com. 801 Magazine St., no phone. Map 3, C6 BALISE TAVERN French. Chef Justin Devillier of La

Petite Grocery fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Musthaves include the blue crab gratin with brie cream and grilled hanger steak with hand-cut fries. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su)). www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish or crispy-skin salmon with seafoodwakame salad. $$$ D (nightly). www.briquette-nola. com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich—a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork—and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5

and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese, housemade mayo and pickles, fresh-baked buns—order up! $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

COPPER VINEAmerican. Along with 30 varietals

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link

on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this

©RED FISH GRILL

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63. RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h. Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................24

French Quarter.........................................................................................27 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 31 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................31 Mid-City..........................................................................................................31 Uptown..........................................................................................................32

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch easygoing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with duck fat fries. $$ D (nightly). www.coppervinewine.com. 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip eatery puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

DINING

world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS CAJUN COOKERY Cajun. This

easygoing spot near the Convention Center offers casual Cajun fare, a full bar and local beers. $ B, L, D (daily). 719 S. Peters St., no phone. Map 3, C7 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple

seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POYDRAS & PETERS Eclectic. Billed as an “Ameri-

can brasserie,” this casual Loews Hotel eatery pulls from the nation’s culinary melting pot with a widereaching menu of breakfast bahn mi, smoked brisket tacos, pimento cheese-bacon burgers, hanger steak with chimichurri and more. The adjacent bar touts more than 45 whiskeys. $$$ B, D (daily); L (M-

F); Br (Sa-Su). www.loewshotels.com/new-orleans. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3300. Map 3, D6 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James

is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. $ L (M-Sa), D (Th-Sa); Br (Su). www.sjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Pyrtania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 TSUNAMISushi. At this sprawling sushi empo-

rium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the “Sumo Ribeye.” $$ L, D (MSa). www.servingsushi.com. 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5 VYOONE’S French. Dine on classics at this French-

flavored spot (coq au vin, chicken roulade, Coquille St. Jacques), or venture off the path with a burger or fried oyster bahn mi. Do not miss the French onion soup or mussels with shoestring fries. $$ L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.vyoone.com. 412 Girod St., 504.518.6007. Map 3, C6

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. “Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Under the helm of execu-

tive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up long-popular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy coffeehouses. Adult beverages offered at Bourbon and Decatur locations. $ B, L, D (daily). Jazz performances daily; times vary. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). centralgrocery.com. 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ Br, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard. 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

Indulge

in Family Traditions at Antoine’s Restaurant for Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch!

roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. Save room for the killer coconut cake. $$ D (nightly). www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

504-581-4422 www.a ntoines.com 713 Rue Saint Louis New Orl ea ns, LA 70130

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list, though the handsome remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues

creates big-flavored, adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate Exchange Alley gem. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and decadent bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com. 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

Josephine Estelle Southern fare, the Italian way

600 Carondelet St 504.930.3070 @josephineestelle josephineestelle.com

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet, Fats Domino’s autographed piano top and Madonna’s G-string. Live music four nights a week. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic

and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. $$ D (MSa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

DINING

D (daily). www.theitalianbarrel.com/. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOODSeafood. Landry’s

locations fittingly offer sweeping views of the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5; 8000 Lakeshore Dr., 504.283.1010. Map 1, D1 LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki

guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Island flourishes, brilliant bartenders and chefs with a strong local following make this one a winner. $$ L (F-Sa), D (daily). www.latitude29nola.com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic. A proper gastropub

with solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. Fried calamari with blistered tomatoes and charred lemons, hefty steak sandwiches with roasted mushrooms and pork belly home fries will make you linger a while. $ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.longwaytavern.com. 719 Toulouse St., no phone. Map 3, G4 MANOLITO Cuban. A taste of Cuba in the heart of

the French Quarter. Pressed Cuban sandwiches (roast pork, ham, Swiss, pickles and mustard), tender ropa vieja and shrimp ceviche are top food picks. Pair with a daiquiri or a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. $$ L (W-Su); D (nightly). www.manolitonola.com. 508 Dumaine St., no phone. Map 3, H4 MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards

tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ D (nightly); Br (Su). www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. The menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 RED TRUCK CLUBHOUSE Italian. At this art-filled

restaurant and bar, the pizzas are big, crisp and topped lushly, with options range from vegan to serious carnivore. The Meatzza is packed with pepperoni, salami, alligator sausage, pork jowl and

THE GUIDE

smoked sausage. $$ L, D (daily). www.10footpizza. com. 740 N. Rampart St., 504.407.3484. Map 3, G3 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade. com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. A two-for-one special.

Downstairs it’s all about the amazing macarons and desserts, while upstairs swings savory with crawfish mac and cheese, chicken poutine, steak frites and wagyu sliders. $$ Br (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon. com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates. $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix

traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contempo-

rary space in the tony Ponchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think tableside Caesers of kale and cauliflower or squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. $$$ L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). www.jackroserestaurant.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4

DINING

TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail

shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BYWATER AMERICAN BISTROAmerican. The menu

at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy and jasmine rice; try the rabbit curry. $$ D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.bywateramericanbistro.com. 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real

good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot. Two words to remember: praline bacon. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www. elizabeths-restaurant.com. 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 POKECHAN Hawaiian. The order at this pretty oa-

sis-of-a-restaurant is build-your-own bowls of fresh greens, rice, veg and raw fish. Cooked options include salt-flecked kaarage (fried chicken) and tender unagi (eel). $ L, D (daily). www.poke-chan. com. 2809 St. Claude Ave., 504.571.5446. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3

Fun Cajun Spot in the Warehouse District offering Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & Weekend Brunch! Happy 3-6pm.

PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERNď&#x161;ź Louisiana. The menu

Large screen TV, perfect for watching college and NFL games.

here is long but simple: poâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;boys and more poâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;boys. They come as â&#x20AC;&#x153;largeâ&#x20AC;? (translation: gargantuan) or â&#x20AC;&#x153;smallâ&#x20AC;? (large). Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish, alligator sausageâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just the top of the list. $ L, D (W-M). www.parkwaypoorboys.com. 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2 PIECE OF MEATď&#x161;ź Deli. The menu at this petit butcher

shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. Grab a pint of smoked chicken salad from the take-away fridge. $ L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.pieceofmeatbutcher.com. 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289. Map 1, D3 RALPHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON THE PARKď&#x161;ź Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 1000 FIGSď&#x161;ź Mediterranean. At this popular Mid-City

spot classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2

Fun Cajun Spot in the Warehouse District offering Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner &Ä&#x2C6;Ä Ä&#x160;ĆŤ Ä&#x2039;ĆŤ !0!./ĆŤ 0Ä&#x2039;ĆŤ Weekend Brunch! !3ĆŤ .(! */Ä&#x152;ĆŤ +1%/% * ĆŤÄ&#x2C6;Ä&#x20AC;Ä Ä&#x192;Ä&#x20AC;

719 S. Peters St. New Orleans, Louisiana 70130

TOUPSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MEATERYď&#x161;ź Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Meatery Board,â&#x20AC;? a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

WILLIE MAEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SCOTCH HOUSEď&#x161;ź Southern. This

beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. $ L (MSa). www.williemaesnola.com. 2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503. Map 1, D3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

Uptown AVOď&#x161;ź Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIEď&#x161;ź Southern. Looking for a great

off-the-beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit poâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;boys, Krispy Kreme bread puddingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www. boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKETď&#x161;ź Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenoughâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riverbend restaurant is light and airy. His market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork â&#x20AC;&#x153;tail totsâ&#x20AC;? and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenoughâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;flashfried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and bĂŠarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

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32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CAVANSouthern. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots and salmon poke tacos before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB

pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery

doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). www.laboulangerienola.com. 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

KRYSTAL CUSTOM BREAKFAST 3 EGG BREAKFAST & BEVERAGE

5.99

NEW BREAKFAST HOURS: SUNDAY – FRIDAY 6:00AM – 11:00AM SATURDAY 6:00AM – 12:00PM

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and

feels French, but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.liletterestaurant.com. 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned

all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola. com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with

contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. $$$ L (F-Sa), D (TuSa). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste

BOURBON AT CANAL

* Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness, especially if you have a medical condition.

of Israel at this award-winning eatery. Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily).). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

Shopping

Books of the Month Club

Ink Spot

Start checking off that holiday shopping list with a visit to one of the city’s many bookstores, where you’ll find three new NOLA-themed releases on the shelves. In Chasing the Gator (Little Brown), chef Isaac Toups (Toups’ Meatery, Toups South) and journalist Jennifer V. Cole dish on fish fries, boucheries and “the new Cajun cooking,” while local author/ photographer Kit Wohl studies the city’s decorative ironwork in New Orleans Icons: Iron Lace (Pelican Publishing). Artist Alex Beard, known for the charming animal drawings that populate his Uptown gallery, also weighs in with his latest children’s book, The Lying King (Greenleaf Book Group Press), which is already an Amazon bestseller.

Love this town so much you could write volumes about it? Papier Plume (p. 32) helps you capture the city with its New Orleans Collection of inks. Sazerac (orange) and Garden District Azalea (pink) are just a few of the hues offered, in addition to imported pens, journals and other writing implements.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 CRESCENT CITY BOOKS Louisiana’s sole member

of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. www.crescentcitybooks.com. 124 Baronne St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage cook-

books are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.

kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this

local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city.

www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830.

DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has become a

mini mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, which debuted in 2009. Today her designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1627 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4

HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY features an altar on which visitors can leave notes to departed loved ones; the missives are burned in their honor on Nov. 17. 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

(RIGHT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 34

Clothing........................................................................................................ 34 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 36 Gourmet Food & Spirits ................................................................. 36 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 37 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 37 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 38 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 39 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 39 Shoes............................................................................................................... 39 Special Services...................................................................................... 39

PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line

of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. www.tascperformance.com. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com. 829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRESearching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM Watch

master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find

fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery— along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. www.shopforeverneworleans. com. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4 GEM DE FRANCE Where do French Quarter Franco-

philes go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-la-la over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls

crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERYAustrian crystals, hand-tolled

leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. www.neworleansmask.com. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique. A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 ROCKET FIZZ Candy connoisseurs get their fill

at this oh-so-sweet shop, packed with nostalgic sweets and novelty treats. A large selection of British and Asian imports is offered, along with hundreds of sodas in fun flavors. www.rocketfizz. com. 831 Decatur St., 504.566.7500. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERSYou can catch a sugar

buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5

SHOPPING

Hats & Accessories BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4 THE CAJUN HATTERSelf-made milliner Colby

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

Hebert’s Cajun roots are evident in his “swamp chic” headwear, which incorporates natural elements such as alligator skin and beaver felt. www.colbyhebert.com. 4516 Magazine St., 504.875.4644. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fdphats.com. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222 © 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church

QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

V Religious Articles V Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org

PRODUCTS & SERVICES: Copies, Fax & Scan

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4

Health & Beauty/Spas

V Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing

Notary Public

MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping MON-FRI 9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the

entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. www.belladonnadayspa.com. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393. Map 1, D4 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4

AROUND THE bea SQUARE bea

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter

MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME“The oldest perfumer

in the South” lives on thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4

PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3 SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3

TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch

of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages and seaweed wraps—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www.neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden COUTELIER Form and function combine at this

Riverbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knifesharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls. Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4

38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

SHOPPING

HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NADINE BLAKE Interiors maven Blake is redefining

the idea of French Quarter chic at her sleek décor boutique. Home furnishings and accessories with a contemporary twist are featured, along with creative gift items. www.nadineblake.com. 1036 Royal St., 504.529.4913. Map 3, H4 RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES Accessible via

the Canal streetcar line, this Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. www.riccasarchitecturalsales.com. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. https://shoprouxroyale.com/. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

Jewelry ADLER’S Since 1898, Adler’s has been New Or-

leans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry, watches, china and silver. www.adlersjewelry.com. 722 Canal St., 504.523.5292. Map 3, E4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952. Map 1, C2 ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich

creates handmade jewelry on-site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www. adornandconquer.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4

JOSE BALLI Mardi Gras mask rings, Dixie beer-

cap pendants, beignet earrings, shotgun house cufflinks: local treasures are the trademark of jeweler Balli. Coastal, Cajun and religious motifs are also prominent in his popular gold and silver designs. www.joseballi.com. 621 Chartres St., 504.522.1770. Map 3, G4; 504.371.5533. KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has

garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer

Mignon Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget.com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-and-mortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5 QUARTER PAST TIME Vintage watches are

the main staple of this French Quarter shop, along with antique radios, lighters, jewelry, silver, and other collectibles. 606 Chartres St., 504.410.0010. Map 3, G4 TIFFANY & CO. Founded in 1837 as “a statio-

nery and fancy goods emporium,” Tiffany’s has since become synonymous with top-ofthe-line luxury jewelry, and famed worldwide for its signature blue boxes. www.tiffany.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 800.843.3269. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

mid-century modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shop-

ping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach,

the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Lo-

cated along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes CHARLESTON SHOE CO.This national retailer’s

“cobblestones to cocktails shoe” designs are the perfect fit for on-the-go women who want to stay comfortable and stylish all day long. www.charlestonshoeco.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 102, 855.996.7462. Map 3, G5; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 855.996.7463. Map 3, E5 FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-

name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. www.feetfirststores.com. 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addi-

tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.net. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother with

baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

Facing the Issue

Aged Perfection

E2, the photographic duo of New Orleans natives Epaul Julien and Elizabeth Kleinveld, is reframing art history one masterpiece at a time. In The Changing Face of Portraiture, on view at Jonathan Ferrara Gallery (p. 40), Albrecht Dürer’s “Self-Portrait at Twenty-Eight,” Johannes Vermeer’s “The Milkmaid” (shown, center), Norman Rockwell’s “Triple SelfPortrait” and others are reimagined to be more reflective of modern-day racial and social diversity. The E2 team scours museums in search of suitable imagery, which can take up to six months to recreate and feature up to a dozen sitters, with the two often making cameos in works such as “Ode to Grant Wood’s American Gothic” (shown, left).

Dating to 1912, M.S. Rau (p. 42) ranks as the city’s oldest antiques store and, at 25,000 feet, among the nation’s largest. The massive showroom spans centuries and continents with everything from fine art and furnishings to rare timepieces. Searching for an English mahogany dining table for 32? You’ll find it here.

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com. 440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6

LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contempo-

rary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www. lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leon-

ard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4

ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery. com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4

NIGHT GALLERY: After the sun sets local crafters come out to display their wares at the Frenchmen Art Market (619 Frenchmen), Thur.-Mon., 7 pm-1 am. 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

(LEFT) ©JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 40

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 40 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................42 Collectives....................................................................................................43

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film. Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GRAPHITE GALLERYSeeking something cutting-

edge and cool? This is the place. Works by emerging and mid-career artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw at this contemporary space, which also features upand-coming local talents. www.graphitenola.com. 936 Royal St., 504.565.3739. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and porcelain, in addition to statuary. www.idamanheimantiques. com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4

MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www.neworleanssilversmiths. com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 TANNER GALLERY & STUDIO Home to local artist

Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.” Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 B.FOS GALLERY “I gather inspiration from all

corners of this wild, beautiful and colorful city,” says local artist Becky Fos, which is reflected in her vibrant oil works. Using her palette and fingers, Fos captures everything from pelicans and crawfish to musicians and Carnival parades.. www.beckyfoscom. 2138 Magazine St., 504.544.2967. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4

GA LLERIES+A NT IQ U E S

NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE GALLERY This

photography collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www. neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 St. Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 STUDIO SOLITARIO Monet, Hopper, Sargent:

Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies. Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2111. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features worksby dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 43

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Lighting the Way

Hop to It

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas everywhere you go. The French Market (p. 44) throws the switch on the holidays Nov. 15 at 6 pm with its annual tree-lighting ceremony at Washington Artillery Park across from Jackson Square. The Downtown Development District ups the wattage with more than a million lights strung along Canal Street, where you’ll spot Santa on the balcony of the Astor Crowne Plaza Nov. 20 at 5:30 pm. City Park (p. 44) makes the season bright with the Nov. 23 opening of its 32nd annual Celebration in the Oaks spectacular (shown), as does Audubon Zoo (p. 44), which debuts its own new light display that same evening.

Forget turkey; it’s all about the sides at the Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium (p. 44). Tradition gets twisted Nov. 20-21 during the Hoppy Thanksgiving festivities with a high-protein menu kids are bound to bug out over. Cornbread-and-mealworm stuffing, cranberry sauce with wax worms, cricket pumpkin pie —dig in!

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4 AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals,

the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest

zoos in the U.S. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute. org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the

Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes and was renamed to honor d’Armes, President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

wheretraveler.com

CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities

of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans of vampire novelist Anne Rice. Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night. CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush

canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino fea-

tures five New Orleans-themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6

MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $22 adults/ children, $17 seniors/students with college ID, $14 ages 11-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com. 524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5

CELEBRATION IN THE OAKS, City Park’s annual holiday lights extravaganza, incorporates 558,350 LED bulbs and 32,300 feet of rope light spread over 25 acres. 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

Attractions & Landmarks

THE GUIDE

10AM UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................44

Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................46 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 48 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 50 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 50 PORT OF NEW ORELANS More than a million pas-

sengers pass through the Crescent City’s cruise terminal each year, making it one of the most popular destinations in the nation to embark/ disembark. www.portno.com. 1350 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.2551 Map 3, D8 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI. Mass said daily. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. Tales & Tastes: Your Ultimate Food and Cocktail Tour –Th-Su, 7 pm; call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4

46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

We have DIRECTV NFL Sunday Ticket Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

Enjoy noon an after ur o drink on patio!

21 47" LG LCD T.V.’s Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys Serving breakfast daily • Weekend Brunch

504-247-9265 • www.poppystimeoutsportsbar.com

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs. Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.Plantation/Brunch/Swamp Combo –8.75 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727. NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs

Celebrating 300 Years of New Orleans As New Orleans celebrates its 300th anniversary, The Historic New Orleans Collection presents exhibitions that chronicle the city’s development and growth, a guided tour of an elegant French Quarter residence, and a museum shop with locally inspired gifts, books, prints, and jewelry. Discover the stories of New Orleans at The Historic New Orleans Collection. For more details, visit www.hnoc.org.

daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm, and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377. STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com. 2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489. Map 1, D3 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

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THE GUIDE

adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required. All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm. For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6

The ONLY Non-Proﬁt Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Promotion, Preservation, Restoration & Education.

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS This 1939 Clas-

sical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore. Guided tours available daily. $12 adults, $10 seniors, $8 students 11 and older, $5 children, 2 and under and active military with ID free. Open M-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Road, 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Second-floor exhibits trace the history of jazz in the city, from its inception to today. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968. NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history

tribute to the veterans of World War II is a worldclass military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6

48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Join us for walking tours through some of the most fascinating cemeteries in New Orleans. Reserve at SaveOurCemeteries.org or call 504-525-3377. SaveOurCemeteries.org

1:57 PM

THE GUIDE

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. www.patobriens. com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentle-

men’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 RICK’S CABARET This 18,000-sq.-ft. venue—named

one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy— offers two floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick.com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans. www.therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz

clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4

You’re invited to the original Rick’s Cabaret New Orleans You haven’t seen Bourbon St. until you’ve seen Rick’s

315

Cabaret Bourbon Street

www.Rickscabaretnola.com

THE GUIDE

Navigate Praise Worthy

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street. SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you. DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can. SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars. PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency. CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels. Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID). ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car. Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie. BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019. 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

©GLGK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

A night out on Bourbon Street may suggest a town built on loose morals, but all it takes is a stroll through Jackson Square, the original heart of the city, to find New Orleans’ spiritual center. Since its founding in 1718, religion has played an important role in Crescent City life as evidenced by the location of St. Louis Cathedral—the oldest active Catholic cathedral in the United States—which anchors the French Quarter (p. 53). The third church to occupy the site (a hurricane destroyed the first in 1722; the second burned in the Great Fire of 1788), the current building was completed during the 1850s. Today the cathedral continues to serve as the city’s holy high ground with Mass said daily and the church’s bells tolling every quarter hour.

N A V I G AT E

Index General Information........................................................................... 52 Nearby Destinations............................................................................53 Cajun Country...........................................................................................53 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 53 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 53 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................53 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................53 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 53 Transportation ....................................................................................... 52

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater. Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102). WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by

Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district. Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-

ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego. English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org, www.cajuncountry.org. JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes. Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net. ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com. TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 53

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S. RAMPART

RSITY

PL.

TOULOUSE

UNIVE

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400

ST. LOUIS

500

BURGUNDY

100

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Local Artists Gifts Full service bead store (no Mardi Gras beads)

85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116

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CHARTRES

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Vieux Carré Police Station

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Canal Place Shopping

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

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DINNER: Mon-Sat 5:30-10:00 416 Chartres St, New Orleans Reservations: 504.596.2530

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Ghost & Vampire Combo Tour

FRENCH QUARTER N

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ST .A

BURGUNDY

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

BARRACKS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILIP

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RAMPART

800

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ST. PETER

700

1000

600

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Mississippi River

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Old U.S. Mint

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500

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600

BeauregardKeyes House CHARTRES

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ROYAL Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

Jackson Square

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700

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100 BARO

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Creole Queen

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Entergy IMAX Theatre

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ST. ANN

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Shades of the Past During the early 19th century, plantation homes lacked many modern amenities, but life along River Road was anything but dull and dreary. A number of historic homes that are now open to the public illustrate just how vibrant the era actually was. Take “Steamboat Gothic” San Francisco (shown), for example, with its myriad architectural influences, where skilled artisans were brought in to handpaint the ornate ceilings and faux-grain woodwork. Or Houmas House, the “Crown Jewel of River Road,” where the striking interiors mirror the gorgeous grounds, which provide a year-round riot of color. Laura reflects its Creole heritage with vivid exterior hues of ocher, red and blue, while antebellum homes erected by Americans, such as Nottoway (the “White Castle of Louisiana”) and Oak Alley, were typically painted white.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under. Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation. Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org. 4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837. HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available. by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property. Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org. 985.369.7151. 406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553. NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg. 12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under. Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain. 58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T RY

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details. This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com. 3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773. BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast. Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312. COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings. B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674. GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475. MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277. NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739. ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332. RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451. THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921. Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236.. GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463. LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s oaks and seasonally inspired Cajun and Creole fare, with daily lunch and dinner specials. The bar, located in what was once the Randolph-family bowling alley, features classic Louisiana cocktails, local beers and an extensive wine list. B, L, D (daily); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite? Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience. Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

MAP 1 NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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THE GUIDE

MAP 3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

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N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater Champions Square

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New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine. Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination. H

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 1 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

and streetcars as much as you’d like.

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

History Buffs

Luxury Seekers

Music Lovers

Laid out as a military parade ground in 1721, (1) Jackson Square is one of New Orleans’ most historic—and most visited—spots. The red-brick Pontalba Buildings surrounding the square rank as the nation’s first apartment complex. With its numerous French Quarter properties, hundreds of rare holdings and free exhibits, the (2) Historic New Orleans Collection is the perfect place to brush up on the city’s 300-year backstory. After exploring its Louisiana History Galleries, check out its great gift shop. (3) Antoine’s has been the standard bearer of local culinary traditions for 178 years. The nation’s longest-operating, family-run restaurant has fed and feted everyone from Calvin Coolidge to Whoopi Goldberg with such signature dishes as oysters Rockefeller, which originated here.

Tiffany & Co., Coach, lululemon, Saks Fifth Avenue—luxe is the key word at the tony (1) Shops at Canal Place, where the third-floor movie theater offers nine screens and in-seat dining. Now open to the public, (2) Longue Vue House and Gardens, the 1930s estate of Sears heiress Edith Stern and her philanthropist husband Edgar, was designed by noted New York architects William and Geoffrey Platt; its pristine grounds were laid out by Ellen Biddle Shipman, the “dean of American women landscape architects.” An elegant escape inside the equally elegant Roosevelt Hotel, the (3) Waldorf-Astoria Spa offers lavish indulgences. Double your pleasure with a couples massage, which includes a bottle of bubbly and chocolates. Ah, the sweet life.

A little live music with your mimosa and eggs Benedict? The jazz brunch concept originated at (1) Commander’s Palace, where it’s been perfected to an edible art form. Sing the praises of chef Tory McPhail, while the Joe Simon Jazz Trio roams table-to-table. In addition to the Mahalia Jackson Theater, (2) Armstrong Park is home to Congo Square, where jazz is said to have first germinated—hence the statues of Louis Armstrong, Buddy Bolden, Sidney Bechet and other local musical giants that populate the grounds. The (3) Louisiana Music Factory claims the world’s largest selection of New Orleans recordings. New, used, CDs, vinyl—you name it, they have it. Rummage the racks while taking in live, in-store performances every Saturday afternoon.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2018

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©ANTOINE'S; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE; ©LONGUE VUE HOUSE AND GARDENS; ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©COMMANDER'S PALACE; ©SHAWN FINK; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS

HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens This holiday season is the perfect time to visit Houmas House Plantation and Gardens. Take a spectacular tour of the original plantation house built in the 1770s, decorated with Christmas cheer. Stroll through 16 acres of breathtaking gardens. Find the perfect presents for loved ones at the gift shop and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants. You can also stay overnight in a luxurious room at The Inn at Houmas House. Plan your memorable trip today! Transportation provided by Old South Tours. Daily pick up from your hotel at 10:30 am. Reserve your seat by calling 504-488-1177. Or take your car and arrive between 9 am and 7 pm.

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com