Where Magazine New Orleans Sep 2018 by Morris Media Network

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

DECADENCE

Burlesque, Sinful Suppers, Sazeracs and More

DINE

BREAKFAST CHAMPIONS

EXPLORE

MUSEUM MUST-SEES

PLAY

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N O L A

SEPTEMBER 2018

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the plan

the guide 20

9 Ask the Expert Molly Cootes Foundation Room concierge at the House of Blues.

Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

12 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus small-fry finds. GALLERIES +

32 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus Frank Relle’s “nightscapes” and cool collages.

36 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus eco-conscious art and NOLA on Tap.

56 New Orleans Your Way

44 XX

Curated Crescent City itineraries for LGBTQ visitors, luxury lovers and families. ON THE COVER

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

Egg Yolk Carpaccio DECADENCE

with grilled shrimp and crispy sweet potatoes from Brennan's. ©CHRIS GRANGER

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus Blue Bike-sharing.

Burlesque, Sinful Suppers, Sazeracs and More

DINE

BREAKFAST CHAMPIONS

EXPLORE

MUSEUM MUST-SEES

PLAY

SAINTS SEASON KICKOFF

300

N O L A

SEPTEMBER 2018

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8/6/18 3:22 PM

NAVIGATE

where now

50 XX

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus plantations’ starring roles.

14 Local Knowldege

Burlesque in the Big Easy and other naughty bits to indulge in.

16 Out + About

Museum exhibits and a Sazerac for the ladies. CONNECT WITH US

17 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

A bevy of breakfast spots, hot restaurant dish and a side of smoky collard greens.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z pages 53-55

(LEFT) ©DEEN VAN MEER/DISNEY; (CENTER, TOP) ©DARRELL MILLER/NEW ORLEANS BURLESQUE FESTIVAL; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©GABRIELLE GEISELMAN/LONGWAY TAVERN

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus Restaurant Week New Orleans and the National Fried Chicken Festival.

10 Editor’s Note

Saints Home Games Football fever, Beyoncé and Jay-Z, Drake, “Aladdin” and 25 other entertainment ideas to add to your list.

DINING

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Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA

Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Molly Cootes Foundation Room Concierge, House of Blues Q: Talk a bit about the Foundation Room’s Sinful Suppers. A: It’s basically dinner and a show in the intimate setting of the Foundation Room. Guests can choose to have a full meal in the dining room or reserve a spot in the lounge, where the beautiful, talented ladies of Bustout Burlesque (p. 15) sashay their way around to the sounds of a live jazz trio. It gives you a taste of a full-scale Bustout Burlesque production. Q: Southern Decadence takes place this month. Name your most decadent, must-have dessert. A: A New Orleans classic: Brennan’s (p. 22) bananas Foster. My mouth waters every time I think about it; it’s an amazing dish.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©CHRIS GRANGER/BRENNAN'S

Q: The Saints also play their first two home games of the season. Where would you suggest visitors watch if they can’t score tickets? A: I would say Walk-On’s (p. 41), the Rusty Nail (1100 Constance St., 504.525.5515) or, my personal favorite, the Mid-City Yacht Club (440 S. St. Patrick St., 504.483.2517). It’s a great, neighborhood kind of place to watch a game, especially if you want to get out of the French Quarter. Q: NOLA on Tap or the Fried Chicken Festival, where are we most likely to find you? A: I’m going to have to go with craft beer on this one. Q: What do you love most about New Orleans? A: The “it feels good to be home” feeling. Brennan's

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

Where We Were This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 1987. Our September cover featured St. Louis Cathedral, in celebration of the papal visit of John Paul II, who performed Mass for 130,000 followers. He was followed later in the month by Chris Evert, who swung into the Superdome for the Virginia Slims Tennis Tournament. Where’s offices were located in the World Trade Center (which is currently being revamped as a Four Seasons Hotel), where the 31st-floor observation deck provided sweeping river views. The adjacent Riverwalk Marketplace (now the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk) offered Sharper Image and roving entertainers who performed three times daily, while the Canal Place Fashion Mall touted Gucci and Laura Ashley. The Tennessee Williams Festival debuted with actor Ray Strickland “in full makeup” as the Pulitzer-winning playwright, Henry Mancini performed with the New Orleans Symphony and the Bangles rocked the Audubon Zoo. Chef Austin Leslie was still working his fried chicken magic at Chez Helene, while Susan Spicer (of Bayona fame) was serving up her signature sweetbreads at the Bistro at Maison De Ville and the Eiffel Tower restaurant brought an authentic piece of Paris to the city. Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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WHERE CALENDAR SEPTEMBER

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HOT DATES

TOP STOPS 23 additional ideas worth entertaining. CIVIC THEATRE Sept. 11: Neko Case; Sept. 12: Punch Brothers; Sept. 25: Lord Huron; Sept. 26: The Decemberists; Sept 28 & 29: Tom Segura. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

SEPTEMBER 9 & 16:

New Orleans Saints Home Games

Visitors will find the Who Dat Nation out in full force this month, with the New Orleans Saints hitting the field for their 52nd season in back-to-back home games at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. Drew Brees and company kick things off Sept. 9 against the Tampa Bay Buccaneers, before taking on the Cleveland Browns the following week. Both matchups start at noon, and are preceded by free pregame parties featuring live music at adjacent Champions Square, beginning at 9 am. Can’t score tickets? Huddle up with fellow fans at nearby Walk-On’s (p. 41), Manning’s (p. 21) or Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar (p. 21). 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000; neworleanssaints.com "Star Wars"

caption here

"Aladdin"

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 PAUL SIMON > SEPT. 5 With a 50-year touring career, a dozen Grammys and more than 50 million sold albums to his credit (and another due out this month), the legendary singer-songwriter looks “Homeward Bound” during his farewell performance at the Smoothie King Center. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

2 STAR WARS: A NEW HOPE IN CONCERT > SEPT. 7 & 8 The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra performs composer John Williams’ Academy Award-winning score live during this full-length screening of the 1977 blockbuster at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

3 BEYONCÉ & JAYZ > SEPT. 13 The Carter family, who recently purchased a home in the Garden District, is often in town for pleasure. This time it’s all business, with the super power couple pulling into the Superdome on their OTR II tour. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

DRAKE > SEPT. 24 Following in the wake of his record-crushing album “Scorpion,” Drizzy drops in at the Smoothie King Center, joined by Migos (“Walk It Talk It”). 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 4

5 ALADDIN > SEPT. 26OCT. 7 The Saenger jumpstarts its 2018-19 “Broadway Across America” series with this traveling production of the Tony-winning adaptation of Disney’s Oscar-nominated animated classic. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

JOY THEATER Sept. 7: Chris Robinson Brotherhood; Sept. 14: Descendents; Sept. 15: Lewis Black; Sept. 21: Cromeo; Sept. 30: Mat Yearney. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME Sept. 22: Taylor Swift. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Sept. 10: WWE Monday Night Raw; Sept. 21: Nick Cannon Presents “Wild ’n Out” Live. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 THE SUGAR MILL Sept. 14: Portugal. The Man. 1021 Convention Center Blvd., 504.896.8190 TIPITINA’S Sept. 8: Flow Tribe; Sept. 13: Robert Earl Keen; Sept. 14: BeauSoleil; Sept. 28: Cedric Burnside Project. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477

(TOP) ©MICHAEL C. HEBERT; (CENTER) ©WILLROW HOOD/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BOTTOM) ©DEEN VAN MEER/DISNEY

HOUSE OF BLUES Sept. 1: Bad Girls of Burlesque; Sept. 6: Sinful Supper; Sept. 15: Bustout Burlesque; Sept. 17: Eleanor Friedberger; Sept. 18: Social Distortion. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583

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The cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top events, attactions, dining and more LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

The New Bump and Grind

Minxie Mimieux performing at the 2017 New Orleans Burlesque Festival 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Burlesque is back...and hotter than ever.

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NAUGHTY NOLA

(TOP, FROM LEFT) ©RICK DULAP; ©HOUSE OF BLUES; ©MADAME’S MODERN KITCHEN & BAR; (BOTTOM) ©CRAIG TRACY GALLERY; (OPENING PAGE) ©DARRELL MILLER/NEW ORLEANS BURLESQUE FESTIVAL

A guide to the city’s risqué side.

Bourbon Street, circa 1950

ild Cherry. Evangeline the Oyster Girl. Aloutte Leblanc the Tassel Twirler. During the 1940s and ’50s Bourbon Street bustled with burlesque shows and “exotic acts” at such long-shuttered hot spots as Sho-Bar and the 500 Club. But that’s not to say the old bump and grind is a thing of the past—far from it. Over the past decade, the art of the tease has experienced a major revival, with neo-burlesque troupes popping up all over New Orleans and beyond. “When I started Bustout Burlesque, we were the only ongoing burlesque show,” says Rick Dulap, who began producing the local burly-q revue in 2005. “It’s since exploded across the country and the world.” This month Dulap celebrates the 10th anniversary of his equally successful New Orleans Burlesque Festival (neworleansburlesquefest. com), which draws performers and devotees from around the globe. Others have followed his—and the city’s—lead. “London, Amsterdam, Stockholm, Australia, New Zealand: There are lots of international burlesque festivals now,” Dulap says. “At one time I started counting and was up to 30.” The three-day fest, Sept. 20-23, spotlights leading “stripteuses” showcasing their talents at the House of Blues

Sinful Supper

(p. 42) and the Civic Theatre, where they compete for the title of “Queen of Burlesque.” Legendary Bourbon Street performer Rita Alexander—aka the Champagne Girl, famed for her ability to drink bubbly without using her hands—will also be in attendance. NAUGHTY BY NATURE “New Orleans was known as ‘Sin City’ before Las Vegas was given the title,” Dulap adds. “Bourbon Street became world famous in the 1940s for its jazz and burlesque clubs. Back then burlesque was concentrated on Bourbon, but now it’s all over the city.” In addition to Bustout, Dulap produces twice-monthly Bad Girls of Burlesque shows (“the naughtier sister to Bustout”) at the House of Blues. In March, he introduced his new Sinful Supper series in HOB’s Foundation Room. Back on Bourbon, the Jazz Playhouse in the Royal Sonesta Hotel mounts its wildly popular Burlesque Ballroom each Friday, while the Saint Hotel is home base to Burgundy Burlesque. Elsewhere you’ll find Comic Strip at Siberia on Mondays, Boylesque at Oz on Tuesdays, Whiskey and Rhinestones at the Gravier Social Club on Thursdays and, on Saturdays, Talk Nerdy to Me at the Dragon’s Den, along with the monthly Strip Roulette

Madame’s

and Dirty Dime Peep Show at the AllWays Lounge. “I get phone calls all the time from people coming here, and burlesque is on their to-do list,” adds Dulap. “There’s this mystique about a burlesque show; people don’t know exactly what to expect. You know it’s going to be a little naughty and you’re going to see dancers strip their clothes off. But it also contains humor, variety acts, live music, audience participation—all those things.” COFFEE OR TEASE? Burlesque in New Orleans isn’t limited to after-dark clubs. The W Hotel shakes things up the Sunday brunch concept with Legs and Eggs at SoBou (p. 25), where crispy quail and cheddar waffles are served with a saucy side of burlesque. Madame’s, in the new B on Canal hotel (1300 Canal St., 504.226.2993), pays homage to Storyville, the city’s infamous bordello district, with fishnet curtains, “red-light” specials and cocktails named for celebrated house mothers, while Cellar Door (p. 20) is housed in one of the city’s longest-running brothels. Add to that the House of Blues’ monthly Sinful Supper double seatings (Sept. 6 at 7 and 9 pm). “There’s nothing else like it,” Dulap attests. “It’s really a glamorous, classy, New Orleans thing to do.”

STORYVILLE STOMPIN’ New Orleans’ notorious red-light district may have been razed in 1917, but its legendary ladies live on thanks to E.J. Bellocq, who captured them on film. You’ll find his iconic photographs at A Gallery for Fine Photography (p. 32) and a copy of the Blue Book guide to Storyville brothels on view at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 40). For further Storyville studies, grab a copy of “Guidebooks to Sin” from the HNOC gift shop. SOUTHERN DECADENCE Over Labor Day weekend close to 200,000 gay revelers descend on the city for this flesh-filled free-for-all, which culminates Sept. 2 with an anything-goes foot parade through French Quarter, beginning at 2 pm from the Golden Lantern bar (1230 Royal St.). Think you’ve seen it all? Think again. southerndecadence.net BODY OF WORK Artist Craig Tracy is credited with opening the world’s first gallery devoted to fine art body-painting—right on Royal Street (p. 34). The “Skin Wars” judge’s eye-tricking creations incorporate hand, sponge and airbrush techniques. Once painted, models are then photographed, and images are offered for purchase. DRESSING THE PART That gaggle gathered at the corner of Royal Street and Pirate’s Alley? They’re just ogling the traffic-stopping windows at Trashy Diva (p. 28). Ostrich-trimmed sheer robes, marabou-tufted stiletto slippers, barely-there lingerie, satin corsets, lacetop thigh-high stockings—va-va-voom! “Tweefwog,” by Craig Tracy

Orleans

OUT+ABOUT

Storming Weather

Exhibits A+ In a city with so many great museums to explore, it can be hard to figure out just where to begin. Follow us. CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER Constructing the Break, a group exhibition of regional artists, explores the intersection between the body and the landscape. Works in a wide range of media, from photography to sound installations, are featured. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800; cacno.org FRENCH QUARTER MUSEUM ASSOCIATION Housed within the Historic New Orleans Collection, this new visitor cultural center provides an overview of 13 venues spread throughout the Vieux Carré. Visit five and receive a free dessert at Tableau restaurant—sweet! 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662; frenchquartermuseums.org

Storming of the Sazerac

It was a pivotal point in New Orleans history, right up there with the introduction of Peychaud’s bitters and the end of Prohibition. Prior to Sept. 26, 1949, the legendary Sazerac Bar (p. 41) was a men-only joint; women were allowed in only on Mardi Gras Day. But that all changed when the bar moved to the Roosevelt Hotel, thanks to owner Seymour Weiss, a showboat who knew the value of a good publicity stunt. When it reopened that early autumn afternoon, dozens of women decked to the nines descended on the bar for what would become known as the Storming of the Sazerac, demanding equal rights…and a well-made cocktail. The annual observance continues Sept. 28 at 1 pm with a round of Sazeracs, followed by a spirited lunch; a portion of proceeds benefits the local branch of the women’s empowerment group Dress for Success. But you’ll find the bar open every day—to everyone. Stop in and raise toast to inclusion. 16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION African Heritage in New Orleans: 300 Years in the Making, on view at the Laura C. Simon Galleries of Louisiana Art, examines the African influence on the city’s evolution. In addition to its Louisiana History Galleries, the HNOC’s main location offers New Orleans: Between Heaven and Hell, an interactive work highlighting historical influences on the modern-day city. 400 Chartres St.; 533 Royal St.; 504.523.4662; hnoc.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM When American troops went to war in the 1940s, Bob Hope went with them, taking his variety show to military bases in an effort Ogden Museum

N.O. Jazz Museum

to boost morale. So Ready for Laughter salutes the comedian’s contributions through a variety of artifacts, photos and film clips. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944; nationalww2museum.org NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM The late, great local pianist and R&B singer Henry Roeland Byrd (aka, Professor Longhair) gets his welldeserved due with Me Got Fiyo: The Professor Longhair Centennial. Dozens of items are featured, including Fess’ first electric piano. 400 Esplanade Ave., 504.568.6968; nolajazzmuseum.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART The city’s cultural diversity is the focus of Changing Course: Reflecting on New Orleans Histories, which runs through Sept. 16. The forward-thinking exhibit combines seven separate projects that look at how issues of race, class and social justice have evolved locally over the years. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100; noma.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Louisiana Contemporary, a juried exhibition, spotlights 25 current-day talents from around the state. Opening Sept. 6, Newton Howard: Painter of the Sportsman’s Paradise pays homage to the ardent outdoorsman who chronicled life along Louisiana’s waterways. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650; ogdenmuseum.org

(TOP LEFT) ©TALES OF THE COCKTAIL; (TOP RIGHT) ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS; (BOTTOM) ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

WHERE NOW New

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300). Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1 2

14 15

16 17

(TOP) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER, LEFT) ©ARNAUD’S; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©RON CALAMIA/FANTASTIC SAINTS; (BOTTOM) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM

Club-hopping along Frenchmen Street.

Willie Mae’s (p. 26) blueribbon fried chicken.

Artist Xavier Gonzales’ mural from Dixie’s Bar of Music, now housed in the Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint (p. 40).

Exploring amazing museums—for free—during Smithsonian magazine’s Museum Day Live! (Sept. 22; smithsonianmag.com/museumday).

The trout meunière amandine and spirited Friday lunch crowd at Galatoire’s (p. 23).

Crescent Park (p. 36), connecting the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood.

5 6

Stumbling upon a second-line parade…and joining in.

Dancing in the lanes at Rock ’n’ Bowl (p. 42).

Saints superfans who suit up for home games at the Superdome (p. 12).

The fried baloney sandwich—trust us!—at Turkey and the Wolf (p. 26), named “America’s Best New Restaurant” of 2017 by Bon Appétit.

The “Touchdown Jesus” statue tucked behind St. Louis Cathedral (p. 38).

The Woolworths luncheon counter inside Peaches Records (p. 27).

Restaurants that recycle oyster shells to aid in coastal restoration efforts.

The annual No Dead Artists exhibit at Jonathan Ferrara Gallery (p. 32), still alive and kickin’ after 22 years.

Sipping French 75 cocktails at—where else?—Arnaud’s French 75 bar (p. 41).

The blast of heat from flambéed bananas Foster, prepared tableside at Brennan’s (p. 22).

Ceramic tile markers on French Quarter buildings, noting street names under Spanish rule, a 1959 gift from the city of Talavera de la Reina.

The “Celebrity Hall of Foam” at Cooter Brown’s (509 S. Carrollton Ave.).

James H. Cohen & Sons (p. 34), the oldest familyowned business in the U.S.

The almost-too-gorgeousto-eat cane syrup blackberry trifle at DTB (p. 26).

The steamed musels with collard greens and Krispy Kreme bread pudding at Boucherie (p. 26).

Papier-mâché float-sized flowers created by Mardi Gras artists, in bloom year-round at Miette (p. 30).

Following in the footsteps of pirates while trekking through Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve (p. 36).

Stiffling stomach growls while exploring the Southern Food and Beverage Museum (p. 40).

Views of the city skyline from aboard the Algiers Ferry (p. 44). 17

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed

The Daily Beet

FOOD+DRINK

MAHONY’S This snazzy po’ boy shop has a contemporary, industrial vibe. The large menu includes po’ boy standards, along with some fancier models, like roasted duck “debris” cooled by creamy slaw and fried green tomatoes gussied up with pimento cheese and candied bacon. For the no-bread eaters there’s a fresh-tasting redfish almondine and red beans and rice on the daily. Mahony’s also has a full bar (get the Fishhouse Punch) and plenty of kids’ options. 901 Iberville St., 504.717.2422

The Big Easy Breakfast Club

Longway Tavern

Breakfast is a serial (cereal) rule-breaker, knowing no time of day (ever had breakfast for dinner?), no flavor boundaries and no specific menu. It’s as simple as a cup of coffee at Mojo, fancy as Eggs Sardou at Brennan’s (p. 22) and funky as a griddled donut Monte Cristo at District Donuts. Walk the city, ride a streetcar or bicycle into a neighborhood for breakfast in New Orleans, the divine meal that’s been called the most—and least—important of the day. If breakfast means eggs, bacon and biscuits, New Orleans Cake Café (p. 26), Slim Goodies (3322 Magazine St., 504.891.3447) and just about every corner store can take your order. Push the envelope with fried eggs, braised cabbage and Creole mustard Hollandaise over tender corned beef at Red Dog Diner (3122 Magazine St., 504.934.3333) or, for an Italian twist, the Coperta (Italian for “blanket”) at Red Gravy (p. 21), dough-wrapped sweet Italian sausage with scrambled eggs and red gravy. Café Carmo’s (p. 20) global flavors come in Tigelas (bowls) that include uniquely delicious Peruvian quinoa, white beans, avocado, Andean corn and wild boar sausage. In the South Market District, the Daily Beet’s (p. 20) Orbit bowl is an intoxicating combination of bright kimchi, warm wild rice, avocado and a

soft-poached egg splashed with a sesame-ginger dressing. Bringing the funk, the sandwich gurus of Turkey and the Wolf also operate Molly’s Rise and Shine (2368 Magazine St.), where there are homemade riffs on bagel bites, bowls and breakfast sandwiches, while Piece of Meat (p. 26) does ever-changing weekend breakfasts of homemade sausages or griddled-crisp slices of boudin noir loaf with eggs. Across the river in Algiers Point, Congregation’s (240 Pelican Ave., 504.265.0194) house-roasted coffees go magnificently with fine Cajun country boudin and cane syrup for dipping or savory rice porridge with eggs. Breakfast has become such a popular meal restaurants are furiously firing up clever and varied dishes that have diners scrambling for a seat. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

LONGWAY TAVERN A proper gastropub with a comfy, chic interior; smart, sexy food; and solid, familiar cocktails. Chef John Sinclair’s food menu has range, and his dishes are nicely plated. Lightly battered fried calamari benefits from the tang of blistered tomatoes and charred lemon; the hefty steak sandwich partners horseradish heat, mellow fresh cheese and earthy roasted mushrooms on crusty French bread; and decadent home fries come dolloped with rich crème fraiche and the salty kick of local caviar. 719 Toulouse St., no phone BAR FRANCES With chef Marcus Woodham in place, this petite bistro has found new life. Start with the deceptively simple Bread & Butter plate, which surprises with smoked beef tallow and crisp radishes, or the mussels, which are given contrast via earthy-rich pistachio pesto, malt vinegar and dill chips. Of the large plates, the Double Cut Berkshire Pork Chop is a spectacle of smart seasonal vegetables and herbs; it’s also big enough to share, if starters are ordered. 4525 Freret St., 504.371.5043 —LG

ON THE SIDE Neil McClure is known for his barbecue. Serving inside NOLA Brewing’s tap room (p. 41), he is passionate about the work that goes into true, pit-smoking deliciousness and puts equal energy into his sides. Of the eight or so options, the side-dish star is his collard greens, which he goes through 15 gallons of each week. Tender and addictive, McClure’s collards are an exploration of savory, sweet, tart, smoky and salty. He starts with six cases of fresh greens, meticulously cleaned and prepped for a long, slow cook with apple cider vinegar, smoky rib meat, molasses, smoked onions and a dash of homemade hot sauce. Great by themselves, the greens are even better alongside straightfrom-the-smoker brisket, ribs, chicken or, on Mondays only, McClure’s super-crispy fried chicken. —LG

(TOP) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (CENTER) ©GABRIELLE GEISELMAN; (BOTTOM) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

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the guide The Week to Eat

Bird Is the Word

What do you get when you take more than 100 leading local restaurants, add hard-toresist brunch, lunch and dinner specials and divide by 7? Restaurant Week New Orleans, an end-of-summer celebration of incredible edibles, Sept. 10-16. Now in its eighth year, the citywide dine-around, presented by the Louisiana Restaurant Association, offers a taste of Crescent City fine dining at easy-to-digest prices. From classic area eateries, such as Arnaud’s, Broussard’s (p. 22, shown) and Pascal’s Manale, to notable newcomers like Cavan, Maypop and Seaworthy, it’s the perfect time belly up in the Big Easy. For a full list of participating venues and Restaurant Week menus, visit coolinaryneworleans.com.

Calling fowl fanatics! Wing your way to Woldenberg Park along the Misissippi riverfront Sept. 22-23 for the third annual National Fried Chicken Festival (friedchickenfestival.com). Along with 36 vendors from around the U.S., the free event features cooking competitions, demos and live entertainment on two stages.

Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie served in the bag, meatloaf with garlic-mashed potatoes and onion rings and “Victory Garden” carrot cake. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.ww2eats.com. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. Sister to St.

Roch Market, this bright, modern food hall offers a wide variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. $ B, L, D (daily). www.auctionhousemarket. com. 801 Magazine St., no phone. Map 3, C6 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish or crispy-skin salmon with seafoodwakame salad. Save room for the bread pudding beignets. $$$ D (nightly). www.briquette-nola.com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich—a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork—and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CELLAR DOOR Eclectic. Once a brothel, this arty

space now entices with modern food and drink with a global/local vibe. Try the coconut-lime mussels, cracklin-crusted redfish and many classic cocktails. $$ D (M-Sa).www.cellardoornola.com. 5916 Lafayette St., 504.265.8392. Map 3, C4 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with

haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 THE DAILY BEETVegetarian. Light, healthy eats and

cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrialchic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an “Orbit” bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. $ B, L, D (daily). www.thedailybeetnola.com. 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, includ-

(LEFT) ©BROUSSARD’S; (RIGHT) ©IMOVED STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Dining September

DINING

ing barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5

LUCY’S RETIRED SURFERS BAR & RESTAURANT Eclectic. Its name and laid-back vibe hint at the

Cali-Mex offerings on the menu at this fun CBD spot. Serious salads, juicy burgers and a variety of tacos pair perfectly with Shark Attack cocktails and top-shelf margaritas. $$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su brunch. www.lucysretiredsurfers.com. 701 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.523.8995. Map 3, C6 MANNING’S Southern. The fun, casual menu at

former New Orleans Saints quarterback Archie Manning’s sports-themed restaurant puts fresh spins on tailgating classics. Chicken wings with a trio of sauces, alligator sausage dogs, crab

sliders—one of everything, please. $$ L, D (daily). www.harrahsneworleans.com. 519 Fulton St., 504.593.8118. Map 3, D6 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5

French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. “Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Bayona continues its reign

as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55. RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h. Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

French Quarter.........................................................................................21 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 25 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................26 Mid-City..........................................................................................................26 Uptown..........................................................................................................26

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established

in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy coffeehouses. Adult beverages offered at Bourbon and Decatur locations. $ B, L, D (daily). Jazz performances daily; times vary. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h

22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

Where do you want to go? Find the best of the city

DINING

(daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan. com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4

Josephine Estelle

GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

Southern fare, the Italian way

600 Carondelet St 504.930.3070 @josephineestelle josephineestelle.com

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.theitalianbarrel.com/. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

sample some K-Paul classics, including blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOODSeafood. Landry’s

locations fittingly offer sweeping views of the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5; 8000 Lakeshore Dr., 504.283.1010. Map 1, D1 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (MSa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped

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Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | 504.524.9632 | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

KRYSTAL CUSTOM BREAKFAST

with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4

3 EGG BREAKFAST & BEVERAGE

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed , while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St., 504.55.2277. Map 3, E4

5.59

SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef Tariq Han-

na’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for a lingering brunch or afternoon tea. Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Br, L (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates. $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

* Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness, especially if you have a medical condition.

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches and burgers fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 10 FOOT PIZZA Italian. At this art-filled restaurant

and bar, the pizzas are big, crisp and topped lushly, with options range from vegan to serious carnivore. The Meatzza is packed with pepperoni, salami, alligator sausage, pork jowl and smoked sausage. $$ L, D (daily). www.10footpizza.com. 740 N. Rampart St., 504.407.3484. Map 3, G3

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contempo-

rary space in the toney Ponchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think tableside w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25 HRC58036NO18 New Orleans-WHERE MARCH 2018 Ad_4.625x4.875.indd 1

2/2/18 12:21 PM

THE GUIDE

Caesers of kale and cauliflower or squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. $$$ L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). www.jackroserestaurant.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail

shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Dessert.

Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card. Pecan praline with butter-pecan frosting, bananas Foster with banana icing—yummy. $$ B, L (W-M). www.nolacakes.com. 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

stunning food hall features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 PIECE OF MEAT Italian. The menu at this petit

butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. Grab a pint of smoked chicken salad from the take-away fridge. $ L (Th-Tu),

D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.pieceofmeatbutcher. com. 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups South) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3 WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE Southern. This

beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. $ L (MSa). www.williemaesnola.com. 2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great,

off-the-beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www. boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (SaSu). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour those succulent shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale. com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

26 W H E R E XC I T Y I M O N T X 2 01 X NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

THE GUIDE

Shopping Kidding Around Woe to the traveling parent who returns home empty-handed. Sure, you could grab a box of pralines from an airport gift shop, but New Orleans offers a number of small fry-minded boutiques for even sweeter souvenirs. Swing by NOLA Kids (p. 30, shown), where you’ll find a variety of Crescent City-themed T-shirts and books, along with masks and alligator heads, or Pippen Lane (p. 27), which caters to tony tots and trendy tweens with everything from football-print onesies Item to StellaHead McCartney clothing. The Little 52 wds. Product Item Text.with Myriad Pro Toy Shop (p. 30) is packed games SemiBold 8/11ptthe Dummy text and actionSemiExt figures, while Idea Facgoes(p. here text goes here tory 30)dummy encourages children toipso get callumn y unum pqrellx i Dummy text creative with old-fashioned wooden pull goes For here dummy text here ipso toys. something trèsgoes spécial, step into callumn x i.Library Open M-Sa 11Magazine am-7 pm,St., Su the French (3811 noon-6 pm. www.fj 304 largNew504.267.3707), homeallraven.us. to the nation’s bury St., 857.225.5683. Map 5, F5 est collection of French children’s books.

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5

©SHAWN FINK

PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this

local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4

SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music

shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on onthis thisSeptemmonth. Visit us online: ber. wheretraveler.com Visit us online:

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830. DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4

FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has

become a mini mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, which debuted in 2009. Today her designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1627 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line

of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel.

ALL THE CAP PRALINE LEAD , that IN Myriad quintessential Pro Light Crescent SemiExtended City souvenir, 8pt dummy was created text here in 17th-century for dummy text France hereasfora dummy digestivetext aidehere andfor named dummy fortext French or dummy diplomat Cesar du Plessis-Praslin. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc. Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 27

Clothing........................................................................................................ 27 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 28 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 30 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 30 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 31 Home & Garden.................................................................................... 31 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 31 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 31 Shoes............................................................................................................... 31 Special Services...................................................................................... 31

www.tascperformance.com. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com. 829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

PRODUCTS & SERVICES: Notary Public Copies, Fax & Scan

WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping MON-FRI 9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church

V Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing V Religious Articles V Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org

THE GUIDE

HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5

AROUND THE bea SQUARE bea

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter

IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4

LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique. A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume. com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 4500 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.7910.; 400 N. Carrollton Ave, 504.488.2129. SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568. WINE. Map 3, F4

Hats & Accessories

A C

FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

SHOPPING

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin. com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig?

Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME“The oldest per-

fumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into

these centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres

St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

hardware. www.krewe.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-and-mortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5

Home & Garden

Malls/Major Retailers

THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER Lakeside is conve-

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls. Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City

flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www. nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. https://shoprouxroyale.com/. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has

garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold

niently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kor and Microsoft. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Lo-

cated along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes CHARLESTON SHOE CO.This national retailer’s

“cobblestones to cocktails shoe” designs are the perfect fit for on-the-go women who want to stay comfortable and stylish all day long. www.charlestonshoeco.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 102, 855.996.7462. Map 3, G5; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 855.996.7463. Map 3, E5 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addi-

tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.net. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother with

baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

Dark Shadows

Patchwork People

Vibrant during the day, New Orleans really comes alive once the sun sets. Just ask local photographer Frank Relle (p. 34), whose moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collections of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the New Orleans Museum of Art and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Ellen DeGeneres, Drew Brees and others. Using high-pressure sodium, mercury vapor and daylight-balanced hot lights, Relle captures a nocturnal side of the city and surrounding swamplands few rarely see. But the award-winning photographer doesn’t dwell solely on the dark side; during daylight hours, you’ll likely find him greeting fans at his French Quarter gallery.

“We are all bits and pieces of different things,” says Evita Tezeno. “I am a fabric of culture, diversity, love and happiness.” Using wallpaper and magazine cutouts, the Texas-based collage artist creates Cubistinfluenced “artwork that inspires.” Catch her new exhibit, “Memories That Speak to My Soul,” at the Stella Jones Gallery (p. 32).

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multime-

dia artist Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured. www.boydsatellitegallery.com. 440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contempo-

rary Louisiana artists are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6

LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contempo-

rary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www. lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajones-

gallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY

The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her “fabric pictures” feature hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery. com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4

M.S. RAU, dating to 1912, ranks as one of New Orleans’ oldest antiques stores and, at 25,000 square feet, one of the largest in the United States. 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

(LEFT) ©FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY; (RIGHT) ©STELLA JONES GALLERY

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 32

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 32 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................35 Collectives.....................................................................................................35

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film. Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists is featured. www.gallery-orange. com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the expressionistic paintings and sculpture that populate his gallery, where you’ll find the artist work. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4

34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.522.3305. Map 3, F4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain, silver and 19th-century glassware are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques. com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limited-edition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warholmand Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www.neworleanssilversmiths. com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. www.artgallerynola. com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4

6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Sun–Wed: 10–6 | Thu–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com

GA LLERIES+A NT IQ U E S

VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features

the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 STUDIO SOLITARIO Monet, Hopper, Sargent:

Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies. Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

“Ashore” Thing

Sit, Stay, Heal

You expect to find jellyfish, sharks and other sea creatures at the Audubon Aquarium (p. 36)…but all made from trash? Each year close to 300 million pounds of plastic is produced globally, with much of it ending up in the world’s oceans. Artist Angela Haseltine Pozzi is out to change that with her traveling Washed Ashore exhibit. On view at the aquarium through April, the collection helps enlighten visitors on the growing problem of ocean pollution through more than a dozen aquatic animal sculptures created from 42,000 pounds of plastic debris collected from Pacific Coast beaches. Keep an eye peeled for Greta, a 1,500-pound great white shark.

Kick off your Oktoberfesting Sept. 22 at City Park with NOLA on Tap (nolaontap. org), the largest beer fest in the Gulf South. An annual fundraiser for the Louisiana SPCA, the dog- and family-friendly affair features 400 local, national and homecrafted brews, along with live music and a variety of food/art/retail vendors.

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon public market dates to pre-colonial days, Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. when the site served as a native American wheretraveler.com $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 trading post. Along with homegrown ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from specialties, the market also features a numSt. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open daily ber of food stalls, retail shops and flea market at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.audubonmerchants. www.frenchmarket.org. 1100 N. Peters institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of located at the foot of Canal Street. This mamthe dead” act as windows on the past, offering inmoth pleasure palace features five New Orleanssight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; table games, live entertainment and a lavish Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans of buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number of 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 her works there. Tours are available; do not venture JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was in alone, day or night. originally known as Place d’Armes, and was reCITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush named to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK AND 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of wetlands, CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alcity? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or ligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www. streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., 504.589.3882. promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year to the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the jogging and biking paths, a dog run and pictureworld’s largest float builder. The tour features a perfect picnic areas. www.crescentparknola. video on the history of Mardi Gras. $22 adults/ org. Map 3, J6 children, $17 seniors/students with college ID,

AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE began phasing out use of plastic bags and straws in 2017, reducing its footprint by 200,000 pieces of single-use plastics. 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

(LEFT) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Attractions & Landmarks

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THE GUIDE

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................36

Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................39 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 40 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 40 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 42

$14 ages 11-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com. 524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood, the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. www. staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

The ONLY Non-Proﬁt Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Promotion, Preservation, Restoration & Education.

Join us for walking tours through some of the most fascinating cemeteries in New Orleans. Reserve at SaveOurCemeteries.org or call 504-525-3377. SaveOurCemeteries.org

1:57 PM

10AM UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours We have DIRECTV NFL Sunday Ticket Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

Enjoy noon an after ur o drink on patio!

21 47" LG LCD T.V.’s Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys Serving breakfast daily • Weekend Brunch

504-247-9265 • www.poppystimeoutsportsbar.com

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Prices vary; call for reservations and launch locations. www.canoeandtrail.com. 504.233.0686. CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings. Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115. CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DESTINATION KITCHENThese deliciously fun tours

provide a real taste of New Orleans. A variety of culinary and cocktail excursions are offered, along with French Quarter and Garden District walking tours. Custom outings are also available. www. destination-kitchen.com. 885.353.6634. DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280. FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. Tales & Tastes: Your Ultimate Food and Cocktail Tour –Th-Su, 7 pm; call for reservations.

nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7

www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4

VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer

FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These guided walks

take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Tours offered daily and by appointment; check website for current schedule. Call for reservations and locations. www.frenchquartourkids.com. 504.975.5355. GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs. Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.Plantation/Brunch/Swamp Combo –8.75 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727. NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs

daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm, and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377. STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com. 2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489. Map 1, D3 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required. All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm. For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times.. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of

the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.” 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/ active military, children under 6 free. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Currently closed for renovations. New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint

(400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Second-floor exhibits trace the history of jazz in the city, from its inception to today. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968. NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide

beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. www.bayoubeergarden.com. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Parkway, 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play—

the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

Celebrating 300 Years of New Orleans As New Orleans celebrates its 300th anniversary, The Historic New Orleans Collection presents exhibitions that chronicle the city’s development and growth, a guided tour of an elegant French Quarter residence, and a museum shop with locally inspired gifts, books, prints, and jewelry. Discover the stories of New Orleans at The Historic New Orleans Collection. For more details, visit www.hnoc.org. Follow us! @visit_thnoc 533 Royal Street & 400–410 Chartres Street In the French Quarter (504) 523-4662 • www.hnoc.org

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve

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THE GUIDE

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found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5

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THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene. The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Check out swing night on Wednesdays.

Highly recommended. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s is where the late

great Professor Longhair played. The popular venue offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas. com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4

THE GUIDE

Navigate Something Borrowed, Something Blue

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street. SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you. DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plastic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can. SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars. PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency. CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels. Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID). ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car. Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie. BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019. 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

©JASON COHEN

How best to navigate around New Orleans and squeeze in a little exercise at the same time? On one of the 700-plus Blue Bikes that recently hit the streets. The city’s new municipal bicycle-sharing program, in partnership with Blue Cross/ Blue Shield of Louisiana (hence their color), offers an easy alternative to Uber with dozens of rental/drop-off stations stretching from the French Quarter to City Park and between the Bywater and Garden District neighborhoods. Riders register on the Blue Bikes website or app, where they receive account and pin numbers needed to unlock the bikes, which rent for $8 an hour and can be dropped off at any rack station citywide. For additional information and a map of locations, visit bluebikesnola.com…and get rolling.

N A V I G AT E

Index General Information........................................................................... 44 Nearby Destinations............................................................................45 Cajun Country...........................................................................................45 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 45 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 45 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................45 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................45 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 45 Transportation ....................................................................................... 44

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater. Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102). WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by

Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district. Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-

ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego. English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org, www.cajuncountry.org. JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes. Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net. ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com. TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

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S. RAMPART

RSITY

PL.

TOULOUSE

UNIVE

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400

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500

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Local Artists Gifts Full service bead store (no Mardi Gras beads)

85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116

504.561.0046

sales@theartistsmarketnola.com

www.theartistsmarketnola.com

CHARTRES

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Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

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1200

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1100

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800

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718 N Rampart St, New Orleans, LA 70116

American Aquatic Garden

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S. RAMPART

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Serving Lunch & Dinner. Courtyard Brunch on Weekends Live Music Thursday - Sunday 504-524-9632

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Ready for Their Close-Ups With their centuries-old oaks, ornate architecture and period-perfect furnishings, Louisiana’s plantations are a Hollywood location scout’s dream. Visit Houmas House, and you’ll see pictures of Bette Davis adorning the bedroom she stayed in while shooting 1964’s “Hush… Hush, Sweet Charlotte,” which also filmed at picturesque Oak Alley (shown), which you’ll recognize from its star turns in everything from 1984’s “Interview With the Vampire” to Beyoncé’s 2006 “Déjà Vu” video. “Vampire” also shot at Destrehan, along with “12 Years a Slave.” Scenes from “Slave” were likewise filmed at St. Joseph, which was the setting for 2016’s remake of “Roots” and 2017’s “Mudbound.” Other starring roles include Evergreen (“Django Unchained”), Nottoway (“The Magnificent Seven”) and Felicity (“The Skeleton Key”).

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under. Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation. Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org. 4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837. HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month. Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available. by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property. Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org. 985.369.7151. 406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553. NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg. 12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under. Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain. 50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 20 18

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details. This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 50 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 50 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 51 Dining........................................................................................................... 52

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com. 3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773. BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast. Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312. COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings. B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674. GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475. MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277. NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739. ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332. RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2 018

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451. THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921. Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236.. GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463. LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841. THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite? Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience. Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

MAP 1 NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

G 510

1 n Rd nma

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610

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MAP 2 SOUTH LOUISIANA 10

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190

Lafayette

182

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Abbeville

Lake Maurepas 55

Laplace

New Iberia

14 90

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Thibodaux

Franklin 182 82

Metairie

Houma

Kenner

Lafitte

Raceland

New Orleans

Vermilion Bay

Slidell

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3127

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Covington Abita Springs 22 Mandeville

Hammond

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THE GUIDE

MAP 3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

Mercedes-Benz Superdome

Smoothie King Center

N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater Champions Square

Rampart Streetcar Line

Orpheum Theater

Cancer Survivors Park

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Canal St Ferry Landing

Outlet Collection at Riverwalk

Poydras St. Wharf

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Girod St.

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Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

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New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine. Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination. H

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 1 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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French Market

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Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

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Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

and streetcars as much as you’d like.

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

LGBTQ Visitors

Luxury Seekers

Family Travelers

In June 1977 thousands gathered in (1) Jackson Square for the nation’s first protest against Anita Bryant’s anti-gay efforts; in June 2015 gays and lesbians once again congregated to celebrate the Supreme Court’s ruling on samesex marriage. Just off the square is (2) Stanley, a casual eatery named for Marlon Brando’s character in Tennessee Williams’ “A Streetcar Named Desire.” Indulge in Eggs Stanley, then give your own shout-out to the playwright in front of 632 St. Peter, where he penned his masterpiece. Anchoring the corner of St. Ann and Bourbon streets (aka “the Pink Triangle”), the (3) Bourbon Pub is the epicenter of Southern Decadence celebrations. Downstairs is devoted to a large curving bar; upstairs it’s all about the wraparound balcony.

It seems only fitting that a city so obsessed with food would be home to the nation’s first culinary antiques store. For more than three decades, (1) Lucullus has been sating epicurean hunger with gastronomic treasures from the 17th through 20th centuries. The elegant (2) Waldorf Astoria Spa, located in the equally elegant Roosevelt Hotel, offers a wide range of body services, in addition to lavish indulgences. Double your pleasure with a couples massage, which includes a bottle of champagne. One state-of-the-art kitchen, two celebrated chefs: That’s the recipe for success behind (3) Restaurant R’evolution. Take the Caviar Staircase before diving into Death by Gumbo. After dessert a jewelry box arrives, filled with complimentary bonus bites.

Home to more than 50,000 creepy crawlers and 70 multisensory exhibits the (1) Audubon Butterfly Garden & Insectarium helps broaden small minds on the large role bugs play in daily life. Junior entomologists craving something unique will get their fill in the “Bug Appetite” area; chocolate-chirp cookies, anyone? From Storyland, a fairy tale-themed playground, to its century-old wooden carousel, (2) City Park offers plenty to keep kids active. Hop aboard the new Historical Musical Train Tour. Jill Dresser takes children on a time-travel journey back to the 1800s with her guided (3) French Quartour Kids walks. Outfitted in vintage undergarments, the former grade-school teacher brings local history to life…while providing parents with a mini vacation of their own.

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(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©STANLEY; ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©CITY PARK; ©SHAWN FINK

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS

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