Where Magazine Paris Mar 2018 by Morris Media Network

March PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

Going Backwards in Going Forward

The guide 20 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 48 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

Meet the artistic director of young fashion brand Essius

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions

Experiencing Exhibitions

58 DINING

Get ready for a whirlwind art voyage through the city’s new and exciting exhibitions

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 68 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 78 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings M A RC H 2 0 18 Issue N o 290

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Turn to page 30 for our Drinks and Diamonds photo shoot. Photo © Marc Martinon

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Dine on Italian tapas at the Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers (Page 61)

4 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

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Paris is the fashion capital of the world and it is where fashion

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While fashion is a draw for the city, Paris also boasts an extraordinary number of museums, making it one of the top cultural destinations in the world for art lovers, and this month we bring you the must-see shows taking place at the Petit Palais, Centre Pompidou and Musée du Luxembourg. In this issue we also bring you our Drinks and Diamonds photo shoot,

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to satisfy the most dedicated foodies visiting the French capital looking to eat their way through it. Dinner cruises are also on the menu with fine fare and beautiful landmarks punctuating your dinner. We also bring you the month’s not-to-be-missed shows in our Entertainment section as well as the new bars to discover for cocktail hour. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

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6 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

March

HOT DATES Discover the best of March in Paris

Double Art THROUGH TO MARCH 10 The Galerie Templon is exhibiting Imaginary Time, the latest works by Pierre et Gilles, the French artists who are known for their signature painted photographs. The colourful exhibit sees the artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; meticulous work of painting over their photographs once transferred to canvas. 30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01 42 72 14 10 8 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

PARIS THIS MONTH

Dazzling Accessories THROUGH TO MARCH 18 Fine jewellery house Van Cleef & Arpels is hosting an exceptional exhibit in its Salon Patrimoine in its Place Vendôme boutique showcasing accessories designed between 1920 and 1970. Vanity cases, clutch bags and cigarette cases are only some of the rare objects adorned by diamonds, pearls and emeralds that can be discovered during the exhibition.

Douce France (Nicolas Dax), 2017 © Pierre et Gilles. Courtesy Galerie Templon Paris & Brussels; Minaudière noeud © Xavier CRESPIN - Van Cleef & Arpels; Maison Martin Margiela — Automne / Hiver1991-1992. Photo : Marina Faust; William Robinson , Portrait de vache (Format ovale), 1979, crayon Conté, Collection de la QUT

20 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 55 04 11 11

Australian Art THROUGH TO MARCH 20 The Australian Embassy is hosting Genesis, an exhibition showcasing the art of William Robinson, the celebrated Australian artist. The show, which is open to the public, for free from Monday to Friday, 9am to 4.30pm, sees the artist’s works that celebrate the Australian landscape as seen through his eyes. 4 rue Jean Rey (15th)

Celebrating Margiela FROM MARCH 22 Creative director for French luxury house Hermès from 1997 to 2003, Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela brought his unique contemporary style to the house’s women’s line. Now his work with the iconic fashion house, as well as for his eponymous brand, is being celebrated at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs with the exhibit Margiela, les années Hermès (Martin Margiela, the Hermès Years) showcasing his creations for both Hermès and his own fashion label. The exhibit puts the spotlight on his rich body of work through photographs, videos and of course fashion. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50

PFW THROUGH TO MARCH 6 Paris Fashion Week takes hold of the city with all our favourite brands showcasing their autumn/ winter 2018/2019 collections. Chanel, Saint Laurent and Dior are only some of the big name luxury fashion houses showing their new collections, getting us ready for our wardrobe makeover for the next season.

Spring is in the Air MARCH 20 Celebrate the first day of spring with a leisurely walk through the beautiful Jardin du Palais Royal before stopping at the luxury boutiques hidden under its gorgeous arcades. w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. com 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs MARCH 9-18 FOIRE DE CHATOU

ALL MONTH One of our favourite department stores, Printemps, has answered every foodie’s call and has inaugurated its fabulous new gourmet deli, Printemps du Goût. Located on the top two floors of the men’s building, the new space is a celebration of French food. Shoppers will find wine, bread, pastries and of course French cheese. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th)

Celebrating Coffee MARCH 23 AND 24 Coffee snobs are in for a treat with Les Journées du Café taking over participating cafes with tastings and workshops where coffee amateurs can learn how to roast coffee beans and how to prepare a perfect cup of coffee. A number of cafes are taking part in the two-day event including La Compagnie du Café. You can visit www.lesjourneesducafe. fr for the list of cafes and full programme.

Hipster Art ALL MONTH The hipster trend knows no limit with the signature hipster look covering Greek gods and bronze statues thanks to the artist Léo Caillard. His show, Hipsters in Stone, sees photographs of classical figures of the Louvre’s sculpture collection dressed in hipster clothes showcased at Bercy Village, animating the visitor’s stroll through the outdoor shopping destination. 28 rue François Truffaut (12th), 08 25 16 60 75 10 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2 0 1 8

MARCH 10-12 SALON DU GOLF Swing into this trade show devoted to the world of golf. You can try out your swing at simulators or on a practice tee, have clubs made-tomeasure and discover the latest from the iconic brands. PGA pros are on hand to give lessons, a host of golf destinations are present waiting to be discovered, and new this year are the fashion shows, and there are plenty of prizes to be won. The show is open from 9:30am to 6pm and from 9am to 5pm on the 12th. www.salondugolf.fr Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

MARCH 10-12 SALON BODY FITNESS This show is all about fitness bringing together the latest techniques as well as the technologies and practices available for well-being, bodybuilding, exercise, pilates, dance and coaching. Some 130 exhibitors are on-hand showcasing 220 brands. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm. www.salonbodyfitness.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

MARCH 17-31 CIRCULATION(S) This show, the Festival of Young European Photography, presents innovative contemporary artistic creation and emerging talents on the European photography scene. The show is open from Wednesday to Sunday and from Tuesday to Sunday during French school vacations, from 2pm to 7pm weekdays and 12pm-7pm on weekends. www.festival-circulations.com Le Centquatre-Paris, 5 rue Curial (19th)

MARCH 22-25 DRAWING NOW This art fair devoted to contemporary drawings brings together some 72 galleries from France and abroad all presenting a selection of original works. This year a new section of the show called Process and Insight will be comprised of 20 of the galleries and comics are being showcased in an exhibition. The show is open from 11am to 8pm and until 7pm on the 25th. www.drawingnowparis.com Le Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène Spuller (3rd)

Printemps du Goût DR; Hipster in Stone by Leo Caillard; Expresso credit Café Lomi

For Foodies

This authentic show, held twice a year and spread out over a tent village setting, draws some 500 merchants from all over France displaying antiques, 20th century art and bric-a-brac reflecting regional traditions, the arts, crafts and gastronomy. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredechatou.com Ile des Impressionnistes, Chatou. RER A to RueilMalmaison, then free shuttle to the fair

Grimaldi Forum Monaco / 28-29.04.2018 / artmontecarlo.ch

Going Backwards in Going Forward By Sandra Iskander 12 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Interview

uisse, Swiss in French, spelled backwards is Essius, but there is nothing backwards about this young menswear luxury brand that was launched by entrepreneur Adel Najah in 2015. Focusing on the precision of everything Swiss and the luxury connotation that comes with that, Adel wanted to create a brand that was not only fashionable but also in tune of what gentlemen look for when it comes to fashion. Pushing the boundaries of menswear, Essius combines sophistication, minimalism and creativity, and drawing inspiration from Swiss architect Le Courbusier for the rounded details of the house’s tailored suits is only one of the examples of how the house’s Artistic Director Youn Chong Bak’s talents are demonstrated, with her designs for the fashion house soft yet masculine, striking and new. Here Youn shares with us her inspirations for Essius, what drives her to design for men and her love for Paris. How did you walk into the role of artistic director of Essius? I had this idea about creating my own brand for a while before I met Adel. As we got introduced by a friend and shared our vision about fashion, we clicked and figured that our needs were complementary and my role as an artistic director for ESSIUS started at that point. How would you describe your style when it comes to designing for men? My style is rather unique since I’m practically one of the rare women that designs exclusively for men. That particular vision of how a piece is designed by me is that it starts from the shape and perfect fit, which I learned from the master [Francesco Smalto], and my creativity is shown in the details combined with technique. How did you start working in fashion? After my three years in studying fashion design and pattern-making where I specialised in menswear, I started as an assistant at Francesco Smalto, a house known for its bespoke and tailoring, where I had the chance to work next to the founder.

Which designers do you admire and influence you? Actually, I’m more inspired by the handcraft and premier d’atelier techniques of any brand, more than designers. They are the ones who create from nothing, a true source of inspiration and so I would say Maison Hermès is by far the master. How critical are you of what people are wearing? I guess the most critical I am is about how men wear suits, shirts, ties, coats and everything that goes with it. Do you instantly notice how people accessorise when you meet them or when you walk down the street? I try not to, but somehow I just notice when the combination doesn’t fit. Do you ever wear some of the men’s pieces you design for Essius? Of course. I try to wear as much as I can, or lets say everything that can be made to my size. What should every woman and man have in his or her wardrobe? A shirt, shoes for every occasion and a matching bag. If there is one piece of clothing to have what would it be? A shirt. How are you constantly inspired? The inspiration can come up any time, but mostly through my travels I would say. If you were not designing what would you be doing? Good question. I would probably work in another creative field. What’s next for you as a designer? Co-branding would be the next step to take Essius. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 13

Is it easier or more difficult to collaborate with other designers? It depends on the designer. I would say that it should not be too difficult to collaborate with another designer. Would you ever consider designing a women’s line? With Essius we want to concentrate on menswear for the moment. Fashion tends to be very intimate with each piece and look creating a statement, do you feel the same way about every piece you design? Does every collection you work on conjure up certain memories for you? Of course, every piece I design is issued by an inspiration of a certain moment, which is attached to a memory. How do you spend your free time? Travelling for me is a great therapy to get resourced and find inspiration for a new season. So I try to explore the world as much as I can. How do you manage your time between your personal and professional life? If you start a new adventure, you have to sacrifice a little bit of your personal life. But I always keep a part of my schedule for my private life. It’s important to know that your life is not only driven by work. Which city offers you the most inspiration and why? Any city can be and has been an inspiration for me. Maybe some are more for a winter [collection] and some more for a summer season. What are your favourite places in Paris? Every time I’m in Paris I just love to walk through the city in the 1st arrondissement or Saint-Germain, especially when the weather is nice and just have the typical Parisian feeling. Where do you love to shop in Paris? I used to shop some of the second hand stores and flea markets, but I also like to walk down Rue Saint-Honoré, but my favourite shopping for myself is in Seoul. If you could wake up tomorrow in any part of the world, where would it be? Anywhere near the beach. What is the one item you never travel without? My sketchbook. What is the first thing you do when you arrive at your new destination? Have coffee and have a look at what the new destination looks like. What are your suitcase packing tips? Take as little as you can but everything for every occasion. It’s important that the items in your suitcase combine with each other. The Essius collection is available at Printemps. 14 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Experiencing Exhibitions By Patricia Valicenti 16 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Fernand Lantoine, Duco Sangharé - Peuhl, 1920-1930 © musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac, photo Claude Germain; Vincent Van Gogh, Jardins potagers et moulins à Montmartre, 1887, huile sur toile, Amsterdam, Van Gogh Museum (Vincent Van Gogh Foundation)

Art Exhibitions

Portrait of a Fula woman circa 1920-1930 by Fernand Lantoine at the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac (opposite page) and Vincent Van Gogh’s Market gardens and wind mills in Montmartre at the Dutch in Paris exhibition (above)

ine, well thought out exhibitions in and around the city offer a journey into faraway places, myriad mediums and educational experiences. The highly unique and intriguing works in fabrics by the American artist Shelia Hicks offer a new take on colour and space while a show presenting hundreds of pieces of art jewels signed by, among others, Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali, reveals the jewel as a work of art. Exotic journeys await in an exhibition of paintings of faraway places as conceived by European artists while another show reveals the mutual influences Dutch and French painters had upon one another in centuries past. History is on the agenda, too, with a show devoted to black dolls offering a glimpse into African American culture in the 19th century and early 20th century while an exhibition devoted to the activists Beate and Serge Klarsfeld focuses on the couple’s fight for the memory of the victims of the Shoah. And never far from Paris are the masters with a show devoted to the great Renaissance artist Tintoretto and another revolving around Rembrandt. There is the whimsical comb and watch brooch by Salvador Dali, an endearing pendant of a gold head of a faun from Pablo Picasso and an iconic Nana brooch designed by Niki de Saint Phalle. These are among the highlights of the art jewels on display at the MAD, the museum devoted to the decorative arts in an exhibition entitled From Calder to Koons, Jewellery by Artists, the Ideal Collection of Diane Venet. The show brings together over 230 pieces by 150 artists from all over the world like Jeff Koons, Alexander Calder, Frank Stella, André Derain and so many more emanating from the collection of Diane Venet complemented by exceptional loans from galleries and private collections. The jewellery pieces, which emerge as miniature works of art, are juxtaposed with larger works in the museum’s collections to evoke scale as the very small is joined with the very large. The show opens on March 7th and is running through to July 8th. Meanwhile, the Centre Pompidou is presenting a solo show devoted to the American artist Shelia Hicks who has lived in Paris since the mid-1960s. The exhibition, entitled Sheila Hicks. Life Lines, is an

invitation to discover art works made out of cotton, wool, linen and silk, mediums that offer a new take on colour and space. The textiles are malleable by nature and so give life to works that are consequently unbound and adapt and transform themselves to each new environment that they are displayed in. Among her most iconic pieces are her soft sculptures, piled up pieces of wool and linen that can be re-interpreted at every new showing. Some 100 pieces are displayed in a fluid and non-chronological circuit underscoring the dialogue between the artworks with colour and space. Alongside the sculptures, some of them monumental, dozens of Minimes, small A4sized woven pieces or compositions are being exhibited. The show, which overlooks Paris, is running through to April 30th. The Venetian Renaissance is being revealed through an exhibition devoted to Tintoretto, at the Musée du Luxembourg located in the garden of the same name. The show marks the 500th anniversary of the birth of Jacopo Robusti, better known as Tintoretto, regarded as one of the most fascinating artists of the Venetian Renaissance. Entitled Tintoretto, Birth of a Genius, the exhibition focuses on the works of the first 15 years of his career from his earliest known work, the Adoration of the Magi on loan from the Prado, executed when he was just 20-years-old to the important commissions of the early 1550s, which brought him into the limelight. The show, which is running from March 7th through to July 1st, brings together 53 works including religious and secular paintings, painted ceilings and portraits of famous figures and close friends, all painted with the richness and audacity that stamped Tintoretto’s work. The Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac is offering a delicious journey into faraway places as it holds an exhibition of some 220 paintings and graphic works from its permanent collection in an exhibition entitled Peintures des Lointains (Paintings of Afar). The works dating from the 18th century to the middle of the 20th century recount encounters with elsewhere and underscore the notion of exoticism. From portraits of American Indians by George Catlin to scenes of daily life in Cairo by Emile Bernard to drawings and engravings of Tahiti by Matisse and Gauguin, the show running

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 17

La Maison Rouge is taking us on another journey, a journey into the world of African Americans, primarily women, between 1850 and 1940, a period when these women created and fashioned dolls for their own children or the children they took care of. Entitled Black Dolls, the exhibition displays the Deborah Neff collection, an exceptional ensemble of 150 black dolls created by anonymous African Americans. Fashioned in cloth, wood or leather, their beauty and diversity tell a cultural history of Black Americans. The Neff collection, which is being shown for the first time outside of the United States, is made up solely of unique pieces all crafted by hand and at times transmitted from generation to generation. The show also features some 80 vintage photographs of American children posing with their dolls taken from just before the American Civil War to the middle of the 20th century. The show is running through to May 23rd. On a contemporary historical note, the Mémorial de la Shoah, the Holocaust museum in Paris, is holding an exhibition devoted to Beate and Serge Klarsfeld, tracing their combats for the memory of the victims of the Holocaust and historic accuracy and against the impunity of former Nazi leaders in Germany. Entitled Beate and Serge Klarsfeld. Or the Fights for Memory (1968-1978), the show through documents, archives, photographs and objects takes a chronological look at the couple and their respective lives and focuses on their activism. The exhibition, which is running through to April 29th, takes a special look at the period from 1968 to 1978 when the couple was particularly active, notably in tracking down former Nazi war criminals. Between 1789 and 1914 over 1000 Dutch artists came to live and work in France, among them Vincent van Gogh, Kees van Dongen and Piet Mondrian. They and their French counterparts would make ties and mutually influence and enrich one another’s work. Today, the Petit Palais, in conjunction with the Van Gogh Museum of Amsterdam and the Netherlands Institute for Art History in the Hague, is presenting an exhibition devoted to this period through 115 works on loan from leading Dutch and international institutions. The show, entitled The Dutch in Paris, 1789-1914 and which is played out in a chronological fashion, takes a look at this period through nine Dutch painters whose works are juxtaposed with their French contemporaries. Among the Dutch artists on display are Ary Scheffer, Johan Jongkind, van Gogh, van Dongen and Piet Mondrian while Géricault, Corot, Monet, Cézanne, Signac and Braque are among the artists in France whose works are in the show, which runs through to May 13th.

This page, top to bottom: Picasso’s faun pendant at the Jewellery of the Artists exhibition; Christ Healing the Sick known as the Hundred Guilder Print by Rembrandt at the Musée Condé exhibition; A sculpture in fabric by Sheila Hicks at the Centre Pompidou Opposite page: Judith in the Tent of Holofernes by the Venetian Renaissance painter Tintoretto and his entourage; A doll made of leather, glass and paper from the Deborah Neff Collection from the Black Dolls exhibition

18 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Meanwhile, in the Condé Museum of the Château of Chantilly an exhibition devoted to the works of the Dutch painter, draughtsman and printer Rembrandt and his entourage is being played out. The exhibition, entitled Rembrandt at the Musée Condé and which is being held in the museum’s new graphic arts space, brings together 21 original etchings by the Dutch master and a few by some of his students as well as

Pablo Picasso, Pendentif Le grand faune, 1973, or, Édition 3/20 par François Hugo, Collection Diane Venet © Sherry Griffin, Brooklyn; Jésus-Christ guérissant les malades, dit aussi La Pièce de cent florins, eau-forte, vers 1648. Chantilly, musée Condé. Réunion des Musées Nationaux. (C) RMN-Grand Palais (domaine de Chantilly) / Michel Urtado; Banisteriopsis - Dark Ink, 1968-1974. Lin, laine, raphia synthétique, dimensions variables. 42 éléments. Philadelphia Museum of Art. Don de l’artiste, 1995.© Philadelphia Museum of Art © Adagp, Paris 2018

through to October 18th offers a journey into myriad and memorable destinations.

Tintoret et son atelier, Judith dans la tente d’Holopherne vers 1554-1555, huile sur toile, 58 x 119 cm. Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado © Museo Nacional del Prado, dist. Rmn-GP / image du Prado; REMBRANDT Harmensz Van Rijn (Leyde, 1606 ; Amsterdam, 1669); ; Anonyme, Poupée féminine portant une robe à perles, Etats-Unis, circa 1895, matériaux divers, cuir, verre, papier. Photo : Ellen McDermott

Art Exhibitions

drawings attributed to Rembrandt and his entourage from the collections of Chantilly. The Rembrandt engravings are part of a major collection of Dutch engravings built up by the 19th century owner of Chantilly, the Duke of Aumale, Henri d’Orléans and son of the last king of France Louis-Philippe, and have never been shown to the public before. The duke acquired, in the second half of the 19th century, intaglios by Rembrandt including major works like the highly detailed Christ Healing the Sick known as the Hundred Guilder Print. Beggars, landscapes, portraits, including one of the mother of Rembrandt, and religious scenes are among the subjects depicted in the works. According to Dr Jaco Rutgers, the Dutch specialist on Rembrandt, the collection of Rembrandt engravings at Chantilly is the fifth most important in France. The show is running through to June 3rd. ADDRESS BOOK CENTRE POMPIDOU Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33 CHÂTEAU OF CHANTILLY Rue du Connétable, 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80 LA MAISON ROUGE 10 blvd de la Bastille (12th), 01 40 01 08 81 MÉMORIAL DE LA SHOAH 17 rue Geoffroy l’Asnier (4th), 01 42 77 44 72 MAD MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50 MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG 19 rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 40 13 62 00 MUSÉE DU QUAI BRANLYJACQUES CHIRAC 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01 56 61 70 00 PETIT PALAIS Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01 53 43 40 00

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Sarah wears Dior Joaillerie Rose Dior Bagatelle white gold and diamond necklace, ring and earrings Breguet Reine de Naples watch Baccarat Vega Martini glass Turn to page 30 for more looks from our Drinks and Diamonds photo shoot

20 W H ER E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Photo ÂŠ Marc Martinon

SHOPPING

For Her

Marni’s Spring Italian luxury fashion house Marni’s spring collection is not for the faint hearted with elaborate designs that define statement-making style. The latest collection sees the designs take inspiration from both the 20s and 50s with swimsuits from the 20s given an overhaul transforming them into knit dresses while the romanticism of the 50s has been given a feminine nod with full skirts and petticoats adding delicate touches to the collection. The collection also features original accessories including PVC tote bags printed with sketches by artist Maria Magdalena Suarez, bringing a charmingly naïve touch to a staple accessory. Marni Boutique 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 56 88 08 08

Double Denim Celebrating denim is the new capsule collection by Italian ready-to-wear fashion brand Marina Rinaldi. The brand, which focuses on plus-size designs, has teamed up with American model Ashley Graham to bring ladies pieces that can be easily mixed and matched, from jeans to corsetinspired tops the collection is sleek and sexy celebrating a woman’s curves. Marina Rinaldi Boutique 20 rue Royale (8th), 01 42 86 10 90 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

SHOPPING For Her

1 4 3

A St ar is born

1 Amber Sakai, available at Mad Lords, 316 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 45 25 08 31 2 Atelier Swarovski x John Nollet, available at Swarovski, 32 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 42 65 28 10 3 By Kilian, 20 rue Cambon (8th), 01 40 39 94 14 4 Dior, 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 63 12 51

Spor ty Cool

1 Carioca, www.cariocaportovecchio.com 2 Dim, 141 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 45 49 34 45 3 Fila, available at Printemps, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 55 96 4 Guerlain, 356 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 68 61 5 Palladium, 64 rue Saint-Antoine (4th), 09 72 55 98 69

Fairytale Romance

1 Agatha, 5 Place des Victoires (1st), 01 40 39 08 25 2 Harry Winston, 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 20 03 09 3 John Galliano, 30 rue des Archives (4th), 01 48 87 92 40 4 Just Cavalli, available at Mercer by Edith, 35 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01 45 48 92 71 22 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Jessica Biel wearing Dior Photo Courtesy of Dior

SHOPPING For Him

A Magnificent Moonphase

With summer just around the corner gentlemen are being treated to lighter and very elegant looks thanks to Giorgio Armani. The Italian house is treating l’uomo to a sophisticated collection of tailored jackets, capri pants and light knits. For the more daring gentleman, the house has brought bursts of turquoise and fuchsia to the collection with shirts, vests and pants given a burst of colour, while for the more demure man the collection offers a palette of neutrals and blues with subtle appearances made by metallics, adding shimmer to pants and jackets that gingerly brings character to a more understated look.

Last year Rolex introduced an entirely new model into its Cellini collection, the Cellini Moonphase, with a distinctive and exclusive display of the phases of the moon. Ensconced in a 39mm case of 18-carat Everose gold, the model is driven by a self-winding mechanical movement manufactured by Rolex with a patented complication to display the moon phases. The watch is outfitted with a brown alligator leather strap with a folding Crownclasp in 18-carat Everose gold and the watch’s intriguing dial is in white lacquer and inset with the moon phase disk in blue enamel. The full moon is fashioned in meteorite while the new moon is represented by a silver ring and the moon phase is read through an indicator set at 12 o’clock on the subdial as the full moon and the new moon rotate through the lunar cycle. The date hand is in blue and delicately terminates in a crescent moon. This moon phase watch is waterproof to 50 metres and is astronomically accurate for 122 years. - P.V

Giorgio Armani Boutique 2 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 56 62 12 16

Rolex Vendôme - Dubail 9 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 40 20 21 00

Giorgio Looks

24 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

SHOPPING For Him

Well-Suited

Calvin Klein Photo © Giovanni Giannoni

1 Versace, 45 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 42 88 02 2 Dior, 24 rue Francois 1er (8th), 01 45 63 12 51 3 Trussardi, available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 4 Calvin Klein, Forum des Halles, 101 rue Berger (2nd), 01 40 15 91 17 5 Tumi, 245 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 45 79 70 30 6 Etnia, available at Alain Afflelou Paris, 357 rue de Vaugirard (15th), 01 48 28 48 85 7 Caulaincourt, available at Printemps Haussmann, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 55 96 8 Moreau, 49 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 70 38 77 00

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SHOPPING

New Openings

The New Colette While the closing of the iconic Colette boutique marked the end of an era, it has also given life to a new address that has the fashion world very excited. On Rue Cambon, home to Chanel’s famous boutique, is where Nous has set up shop, with ex-staffers of Colette picking up from where the Rue Saint-Honoré fashion attraction left off. Not straying from the formula that made their previous workplace ever so popular, Nous is a multi-brand boutique showcasing contemporary pieces with a heavier focus on street culture fashion. Sportswear, edgy sunglasses and luxury timepieces are only some of the items proudly displayed with a revolving offering of brands including Billionaire Boys Club, Franck Muller and Thierry Lasry. Nous Boutique 48 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 50 78 17

Shoes for All Juch Boutique 39 rue Dauphine (6th), 01 43 29 04 37

26 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Nous Photo © Veronese

Launched by Julia and Charles-Hugo, Juch is a footwear brand for both ladies and gentlemen and now the brand has finally found a new place to call home. Recently opening the brand’s first boutique in Paris, Juch has created a space where shoppers can find a plethora of designs from the classic boot to the more original sneaker design made with pineapple fibre.

SHOPPING Hair Care

TLC for your Tresses The winter can cause havoc on our tresses with the cold forcing us to turn up the heat and in turn drying out our hair, so as we slowly make our way to spring and the warmer months, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to tend to our hair and give it much-needed TLC and help it get thicker and more luscious.

Aveda, our favourite hair care brand that offers natural products, recently launched its Invati Advanced line that promises to reduce hair loss by 53%. The range includes a shampoo, conditioner and a scalp revitaliser that helps to further penetrate your hair and nourishes it to reduce loss. With organic ginseng that invigorates the scalp, the revitaliser used along with the shampoo and conditioner promises to leave you with thicker hair. Aveda Montecino Salon & Spa 7 rue du Louvre (1st), 01 40 26 18 07

Made in France, hair care brand Phytodess works for your hair with their latest Densiphyl range working to stop you from losing your beautiful mane. Enriched with cleome gynandra, an herbaceous plant from Burkina Faso, the range, which includes a fortifying shampoo, a fortifying anti-hair loss concentrate and a supplement, helps to strengthen your hair and reduces thinning. Available at Dessange Paris Hair Salon 39 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01 43 59 31 31

Hydrating and nourishing your hair is also very important to keep it looking and feeling healthy. Talented hairdresser Marisol is known for her talent of cutting dry hair, while the brand Casanera is known for using organic ingredients, and now the two names have come together to create Oliu Secreta (The Secret Oil). Made with natural and organic coconut nectar, propolis and pomegranate, Marisol uses the oil during her intense hair treatments to nourish and hydrate your tresses. Letting the oil work its natural magic, the treatment is an hour long and leaves you with super soft hair. Marisol Hair Salon 33ter rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01 44 61 18 34 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 27

SHOPPING

For the Home

Getaway Décor With a country home feel, Maison de Vacances’s second boutique is an inviting space where shoppers can easily be inspired by the chic boho vibe and find interesting pieces to furnish their home with. Spread over two floors, the house’s tasteful selection of pieces is a decorator’s dream with plush throw rugs, rocking chairs and decorative lamps by Mark Eden Schooley beautifully displayed to help turn any house into a home. Maison de Vacances 4 rue de Cléry (2nd), 01 42 86 94 69

Surround sound couldn’t get any more stylish with Apurna’s two-speaker stereo system. Placed side-byside or stacked on one another, Apurna’s amplifiers are dressed in your heart’s desire, from gold to lacquer and even diamonds, how you want to listen to your music is only a request away. Designed and made in France, the speakers are as much an objet d’art as a very chic way to listen to your music. While bespoke speakers are the ultimate plush décor piece, Apurna also offers original, and equally luxurious, designs that spell uniqueness including the Flower Princess collection that is inspired by watercolours and gardenias, and the Oriental Ginkgo design featuring delicate ginkgo leaves floating on a mahogany wood casing. www.apurna-france.com 28 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Music to our Ears

15 Galerie VÃ©ro-Dodat 75001 Paris (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi)

Shopping Fashion

Drinks and Diamonds

Clara wears Chaumet JosĂŠphine Aigrette ImpĂŠriale white gold and diamond necklace, bracelet and earrings Dior Joaillerie Rose Dior Bagatelle white gold and diamond ring Christian Lacroix Maison for Vista Alegre Love Who You Want cups and saucers 30 W H E R E Pa r i s i m a r c h 2018

Photographer: Marc Martinon Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Photographer’s Assistant: Tao Douay Make-Up Artist: Katy Denniel Hairstylist: Julie Mandin from Naher Models: Sarah H from What Else Agency, Dovile S from What Else Agency, Héloise P from What Else Agency, and Clara D from Karin Models Special thanks to Hôtel Splendide Royal Paris

Héloise wears Harry Winston Cluster Diamond platinum and diamond ring, necklace, bracelet and earrings w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 31

Chanel Summer Cruise white and yellow gold necklace with white and yellow diamonds and sapphires Chanel Joaillerie white gold and diamond ring Lalique 100 Points glass 32 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Dior Joaillerie My Dior white gold and diamond ring and earrings F.P. Journe Elegante 40mm watch Bernardaud Jardin Indien cup and saucer w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 33

Boucheron VendĂ´me Chromatique yellow and white gold necklace with diamonds, yellow sapphires, agate and mother of pearl Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust 28 watch Chanel Golden Braid yellow gold and diamond ring Lalique Langeais wine glass 34 W H ER E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Mellerio Giardino rose gold earrings and ring with blue-green tourmaline, pink sapphires and diamonds Baccarat Harcourt Louis Philippe glass w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 35

Tasaki Ritz Paris white gold, diamond and sapphire necklace, earrings and ring Baccarat Vega Flutissimo champagne flute 36 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Piaget Limelight white gold, diamond and emerald necklace, earrings and ring Baccarat Vega Flutissimo champagne flute w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 37

Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour

Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine

BONPOINT

| Children’s Clothing & Toys

38 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),

01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries La Grande Récré - 126 rue La Boétie (8th), 01.42.25.42.42. M° Georges V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt

ATELIER COLOGNE

Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (14th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

| Beauty Spas & Products

SHOPPING

Address Book

Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra F.P. Journe - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Redline Showroom - 161 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.64.92.24. M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9 ), th

01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Djula - 269 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.86.08.56. M° Concorde DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 21 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.11.17. M° Pyramide Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garel - 17 Rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau

LINGERIE

01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

Hedgren - At the BHV Marais (2nd floor), 52 rue de

Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd), 01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) ,

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal

AÏZEA

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th),

| Luggage and Bags

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

DINH VAN

| Jewellery & Watches w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 39

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

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Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

•

CONCORDE

• RUE ROYALE

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RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara

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Marella

Le Jacquard

• Français

Antiquités

LEI NE

Chanel CA MB ON Hedgren RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • Jamin • Kiton Messika• • Hervé Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Arije Bally • J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

Opéra Garnier

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

• AV

ivk

L’O

eli

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•

• •

•

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RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

• • •

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Maje

’AB

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Place des Victoires

by Terry Xavier Lust

0039 Italy

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

Aïzea

Galerie Vivienne

•

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

Pie rre Co D Har rto elv dy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

•

RUE DE RIVOLI Musée du Louvre

RUE VIVIENNE

40 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

• De Fursac

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2 Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 www.aizea-paris.com

RUE RICHELIEU

RUE DE VALOIS Francesco Russo

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

ÉR

•

• Kam’s

PALAIS ROYAL

id •A •Q ier L nna u R e

E NU

Galerie de Valois

AïZEA

’OP

Acaba •

Galerie de Montpensier

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

L DE

• Gresley

•D

Printemps du Louvre

CIN

•

• RedLine

•

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

FreyWille

SHOP STOP

Garel

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Vivienne • Westwood

Garland

RUE DE LA PA IX •

ONORÉ

Carrousel du Louvre

Vendôme

•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES Jack Russell • Burma • •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Missoni• • Akillis Kiehl’s• Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl • • Christian Dior Colette •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • •Paraboot La Prairie • RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil The Kooples • •Cotélac RUE S A IN T -H

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

Place

Goyard •

•Dubail

•

RUE S A IN T -H

RUE DE RIVOLI

IG LI ON E

SHOP STOP

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

LAULHÈRE

• Zwilling • Lipault

OT P H • Gorky

Paris •RU E

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

MADELEINE

WEMPE

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

•

• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi• Parakian

• Oliver Grant

Espace Cachemire

•

Jeu de Paume

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

■

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

Burberry

•

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

▼

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

• Sothys

AB OÉT IE

Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

AVE

ESN

AB OÉT

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

NORÉ

BOUR

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

INE

ATHU

DES M

S RUE D ES MA T H U R IN S

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

T H U R IN

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

ES MA

Église de la Madeleine

•

• Eres • Swarovski

Marella

• Zwilling E SÈZE

MA EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

RUE D

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

•Anne Fontaine

DE E

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

RUE D

NORÉ

RINS

RUE TRONCHET

Hedgren • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy • Coach Hilfiger Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani Hackett • • Marc Jacobs Lacoste • • David Morris • • Omega Omega• UL

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

INE S

APUC

DES C

RUE

Vendôme

Place

IG LI O N E

• Burma Ciro pour

INES

EVA

42 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (1) 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

R U E CA ST

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

ULE

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

RUE DE RIVOLI

•

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi • •

UÉP

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Yohji Yamamoto

A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand for mens and ladies is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.

ROQ

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

CROCKETT & JONES

•

CONCORDE

•

L ’A R C

••

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•

SHOP STOP

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet

•• •

Lanvin

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

SSM

RUE

RUE DE SURÈNE

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

’

O AST

BLV

INE RU

• •

Place de la Concorde

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

MANN

OÉT

ÉS

ÉR

ROQ

B AM

• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron & Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

SHOP STOP

R D H A U SS

ESN

RUE

RU E DE DU RA

B O U LE VA

• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES

• Loriblu

ESN

MIR

NT-HO

IÈV

G SAI

MIR

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

E ED

79 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 42 65 36 26 www.baccarat.fr

MIR

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

E ED

Pierre Cardin

Gringoire Joaillier

•

Founded in 1764, Baccarat is the oldest and most famous crystal maker in the world. For over 250 years, Baccarat has been a symbol of excellence in French savoir-faire. Designed by Gilles & Boissier, Baccarat’s Parisian flagship is located in the centre of the luxury shopping neighbourhood and is inspired by a French mansion and a Parisian apartment.

BACCARAT

OÉT

Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

L DE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

CIER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

PER

NUE

•

MIROMESNIL RU

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

SHOP STOP

Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

CAPEL LACOSTE PAL ZILERI PAUL&SHARK CUTTER&BUCK TOMMY HILFIGER VILEBREQUIN

Alexandre Flanquart, RUGBYPLAYER,

STADE FRANÇAIS PARIS , 2.06M - 120KG ,

26 bd Malesherbes Paris 8e Monday - Saturday 10:30-19:00

11-13 rue de Tournon Paris 6e Tuesday - Saturday 10:30-12:30 - 14:00-19:00

74 bd Sébastopol Paris 3e Tuesday - Saturday 10:30-19:00

capelstore.fr

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

D’IÉ

LLOT

AVE

NUE

UE EN

OT UE EN AV

• Swarovski • GrandOptical

Kenzo

PIER

•

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE

DU B

OCCA

DOR

RUE FR

ANÇO

IS 1 ER

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

AVE

• Marionnaud Paris

•

• Eric Bompard• Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard •Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • EA • • RC A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier UE • EN • RUE PI •Les Suites • AV Arije • ERRE C Cartier • Kusmi H Givenchy A RRO • EV Tea • N Scabal • GEORG Rolex • Chaumet Dubail E U Beretta N • Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • Oud • Burma R • Sicis Franck • RUE MARB• • •Tom Ford UE PI •Carvil EUF ERR Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR R • Vionnet É U M E M• • Smalto By Marie&Gas Bijoux OILL A E Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain ALMA MARCEAU Karl • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld Zadig&Voltaire • Valentino Caron AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello MARIG E Dior • RUE DE Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • PSG • Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe • Van Pucci•• •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont IE

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

Lacoste •

E V Hermes Omega

ORG

GE NUE

•

RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

Elysées Joaillerie

•

• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany La Grande RUE • Récré LA RUE DE PONTHIEU

SHOP STOP

• Cartier

Montblanc

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton•

CEA

ERB

29 ave Montaigne - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 03 09 paris.montaigne@harrywinston.com www.harrywinston.com

RUE BALZAC

Armani Collezioni RE 1 ER DE S

•

• Milady

E AV

•

SANO

Hugo Boss

MA R

RUE

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

CEA

AVE

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore • Lancel •

ALILÉ

A EDL

RUE G

’IÉ UE D

BOÉ

TIE

• J.M. Weston • RUE DU CO

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver

ELT

EJ EA NG OU

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

JO N

1ER NUE

AVE

IN NKL

•Adidas Meet the French

•

• Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

EVE

OOS

D.R

AVE

NUE

FRA

IN NKL

FRA

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

ALBERT

44 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

COURS

12/14 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 53 14 94 www.meet-the-french.com

NFÉRENCE

Meet the French is not only an exceptional chauffeur service but the company with 85 years of experience also offers its elite clientele a bespoke service. While standard trips are easily organised, the company prides itself on also organising guided tours to discover France’s abundance of savoir-faire.

PORT DE LA CO

MEET THE FRENCH

FRI

Maison Baccarat

EM AR CEA

NUE

AVE

AHO

■

AV EN U

AC M

NUE AVE

ALILÉ

Place des États-Unis

RUE DE CHAI

HARRY WINSTON

D’IÉ

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

NUE

AVE

M NUE

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

DOUX

RUE G

SHOP STOP

Founded in New York City, in 1932, The House of Harry Winston continues to set the standard for the ultimate in fine jewelry and high-end watch making.

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 www.arabianoud.fr

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

On the most famous avenue in the French capital you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, incense and scented oils.

Arc de Triomphe

AVENUE KLÉBER

ARABIAN OUD

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

A Marina • VENU EV Rinaldi ICT OR H

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

ATIG

NON

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

SHOP STOP Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

DE CA RU ED

ES M

BOU

ATH

URIN

MAT

•

Sephora

•

ARTI RUE

•Gant • •

• Max&Moi

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

•

Boggi

EL OU

Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella • C Repetto • E Poiray U Garland R Corthay Y • Christofle • • Harrison Cartier • OLNE Piaget • Diesel V • Yumi Katsura Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • A Alexander McQueen • L •Fred Louis Vuitton • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House • Tasaki• • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU Hublot • • ST Breguet • RU • Patek Philippe Place du Marché Zadig & ED • Dior FreyWille • ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia MP Montagut • S Dodo Courteille • RU Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba • Tourist ON • • Balenciaga Arije T - T Paule Ka Office HA Akillis • BO • PYRAMIDES RUE R • • • Jovoy TH Missoni ÉR Christian Dior • M.A.C ÈSE Ami • • • •Frank Namani Bonpoint • Colette Penhaligon’s • Mulberry • RU

DES

C AP

UCI

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

-H

TIN

T-R

T LLE

JUI 29 ED U

D’A

-H

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

-H

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

BUCHERER PARIS In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

IÉR

EM ÉH

SHOP STOP

Lancel

• • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

• • • IKKS

Bally Hackett Omega

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

AR D VI

R U E ÈD OU

J.M. Weston• Gorky Antiquités N Tommy BO Hilfiger AM

•

ES CR IB

•

Golfino • •Loding

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

Opéra Garnier

INS

Exaltation

•Zwilling

RUE

At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. For Her, for Him, the new collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials.

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

CAUM

RUE

HUR

Fragonard

Mario Dessuti•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

▼

ACABA

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

RUE BOUDREA U

GOD

OT D

RUE

VIGN

AUR

ON TR E

DES

RUE

MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

U EA

Paraboot• • Eres

LEV

•

SHOP STOP

Galeries Lafayette Homme

Andrea

’AR

L DE

P R O V EN

• Moda di

RU E JO UB ER

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/ th

RUE DE

VICTOIRE

ADOR

Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN

RUE MOG ADOR

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Mode T

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

Printemps Homme

MOG

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

RUE

RU E DU HA VR

Galeries du Diamant •

w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 4 5

LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

E AU V

CAR RUE

Moissonnier AC

CHE

ÉRES TS-P

GAU

CHE

Buly 1803 • TE

IVE

A PA R

RÉ R

BON

Poltrona Frau

NEU

SAIN

CAR

VER

DES

•

RUE

Escales •

Elsa

Debauve &

TS-P

• Vanier

Atelier Valentin

GON

DRA

11 rue de l’Arrivée - Paris 15th www.montparnasserivegauche.com 46 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

VÉ RI

RUE

Montparnasse Rive Gauche

MONTPARNASSE-BIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V DE DG A

•

UIN

VAU G RUE DE

IR A R D

Jardins du Luxembourg

RUE DE TOURNON

• IUNX

•

RUE DE L’ODÉON

RUE DE TOURNON

RU E DE CO ND É

RUE DE SEINE

RUE MA BIL LON

RUE PRI NCE SSE

RUE DES CANETTES

RUE FÉROU

ASS

RUE MAD AME

ARN

RU E BO NA PA RT E

NTP

NES

REN

L’A R DE E

•

Église Saint-Sulpice RUE SERVANDONI

RUE

REN

NES

RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

▼

ES SA RU E D’OD

Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.

BVD

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

E-M

IDI

RUE BON APAR TE

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

A IS E

ENN

RUE

• Guerlain • Wolford

S PA IL ARD RA

BOULEV

MONTPARNASSE RIVE GAUCHE

• Fabrice

SHOP STOP

Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian RUE U • Façonnable L • E VA DE L Louboutin Stella • ’A B Louis RD B AY • SAI • Agent Luna Etro • E Vuitton N T • -GE Provocateur • Sonia • • R M Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler • Cucinelli Burberry Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Smith Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Ami Maison Armani BOU • • Lejaby• • LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD Cartier • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • Hackett• Montblanc Alexis Mabille • • Kenzo • • Gas Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Bijoux Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo RUE Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi • Djula Dot-Drops • • U FOUR La Perla • Alain Mikli • D Durance RUE M.A.C.• • • Repetto Le Mont Omega S Saint Michel Berluti • • ÉVRE S E Saint D • • • E U RUE DE BABYLONE • R Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper • • SU LP IC E T• Frey Wille IN • SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Hermès Robert Eres • • ULPICE Clergerie SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S Le Bon •Lise Loxwood S & Voltaire E Charmel • Marché S É V R DE • • Il Bisonte

S PA IL ARD RA

13 rue de Tournon - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 02 53 52 contact@iunx-parfums-paris.com www.iunx-parfums.com

EJ AC

Faienceries • de Gien

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

IUNX PARFUMS A mystic perfume store to wake up all your senses. Iunx is a true universe on its own on the Left Bank in Paris, dedicated to its own creative fragrances for a true olfactory experience. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, 11.30 am to 7 pm.

• R TE

RUE

DES

• John Lobb Gallais • Bang • & Olufsen AI NT Edward Green • -G Zadig & Voltaire Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • • Karl Lagerfeld IN • • Aubercy EV

RU E MA ZAR INE

ÉRES

JLC Opticien RUE DU BAC

RU E DE SEI NE

•Silvera

▼

•

Gérard • Darel

•

LTA I

RUE

E AU N

RUE

Ofée . • Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Deyrolle The Kooples

GAU

ITÉ

DE B

LIL

IVE

SAIN

SHOP STOP

IVE

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

RÉ R

DU B

DOT-DROPS

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

•

ED EL ’UN

RUE

DE B

•

Aga

RUE

LIL

DU B

RUE

Musée d’Orsay

Parfums

Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

YM E

T RU E CH AR LO

M IN E

S DU F IL L E

EL LE R U E D EB

TEMP

LE DU

TO NG E

VIEIL

RUE DE THORIGNY

RUE

RU E DE SA IN

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52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 47

The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

Azzedine Alaïa Photo © Andrea & Valentina

One of the iconic dresses by Azzedine Alaïa exhibited at the designer’s gallery (opposite page) 48 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Constructed Couture The timeless, carefully crafted creations of the late fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa are being showcased in the Marais venue where he lived and worked and which now houses the Association Azzedine Alaïa. The show, entitled Azzedine Alaïa, I Am a Couturier, brings together some 41 major works by the designer selected by Olivier Saillard, the art historian and former director of the Palais Galliera, the city’s fashion museum. “Azzedine Alaïa chose to place his profession within the great tradition of the architect couturiers of the 20th century who mastered every step in the conception and fashioning of a piece of clothing from the pattern to the assembly. He is the ultimate heir to Madeleine Vionnet, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Charles James,” explains Olivier Saillard.

Azzedine Alaïa Photo © Lord Snowdon, 1990; Départ pour Sanya, Ile de Haina Photo © Thierry Jadot

Showing through to June 10th 18 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 42 74 49 66

Pivotal Pictures The Maison de la Chine is presenting a selection of photographs of China by Thierry Jadot taken during one of the country’s most pivotal periods, from 1987 to 1989. Entitled China, the Fervent Years, the pictures on display offer a discovery into the country’s cities, the onechild policy, the bicycles, the minorities and the immense wealth of a country that at the time was slowly opening up to tourism. Thierry Jadot arrived in China to teach in 1987 and travelled throughout the country and during his tenure there encountered the Chinese people and the country’s diverse, immense landscapes. The photographs, both black and white and in colour, are marked by their candour and spontaneity taken in this China that through the policies of Deng Xiaoping was opening up economically as well. Showing through to April 7th 76 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 45 51 95 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 49

GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Bernard BUFFET

Exhibition: 22th of March-12th of April

Bernard BUFFET MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Secret Gardens

Showing through to March 30th 32 rue de Penthièvre (8th) 01 44 71 07 72

50 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Jean-Paul Agosti, Canopée Barrée, 2016

Galaxy Park, Garden of Shadows, Garden of the Green Lion, and Garden of the Mandrake are all colourful names for the highly colourful and aesthetic paintings of Jean-Paul Agosti. The Galerie Guillaume is devoting an exhibition to this artist, one of the first represented by the gallery, which is celebrating its 15th anniversary this year. The show brings together some 20 works in a show entitled the Garden of Mnemosyne, Mnemosyne being the goddess of memory in Greek mythology. And upon looking at these inviting works one seemingly enters into a garden with its trees, leaves, barks, branches and exuberant colours. Crafted in watercolours and acrylic the paintings bring together the good earth with the colours of the sky filled in with his exuberant flora.

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Pierre Bonnard Les Ballets russes - Légende de Joseph, 1914 Huile sur papier, 32,5x23,5cm ; Camille Claudel, La Valse ou Les Valseurs, 1889-avant 1895. Gr.s, 41,5 x 37 x 20,5 cm. Achat. Reine-Marie Paris de La Chapelle, 2008 © Musée Camille Claudel, photo Marco Illuminati

Delving into Drawings The Salon du Dessin, the internationally renowned art show and fair devoted to drawings, is converging on Paris for the 27th time this year showcasing both works by the masters as well as emerging and contemporary artists. The show offers an opportunity to see rarely displayed works by major artists including Pierre Bonnard, Claude Monet and Odilon Redon. Works in myriad mediums are on display including pastels, watercolours, charcoal and pencils. Highlights of this year’s show include a selection from the drawings of the Musée d’Arts de Nantes and an exposition of the drawings of the diadems of the high jewellery house of Chaumet underscoring the role of the artist in the art and craft of jewellery making. Some 30 museums, foundations and cultural institutions from Paris to Chantilly are getting into the drawing spirit, exhibiting some of their rarely shown works, for drawings are fragile and often conserved away from the public eye. For a selection of venues visit www.salondudessin.com. From March 21st through to March 26th, from 12pm to 8pm, and until 10pm on the 22nd. Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse (2nd)

Curating Claudel A museum devoted to the great French sculptress Camille Claudel has opened to the public in the scenic town of Nogentsur-Seine, an hour’s train ride from Paris. The museum brings together 43 of her sculptures making it the foremost collection of her work in the world. Masterpieces like the Waltz and her Perseus and the Gorgon in marble are all part of the itinerary, which includes works by other major sculptors including Auguste Rodin. Camille Claudel would spend three years of her childhood in Nogent-sur-Seine and it was here that her vocation was born in a town where three leading sculptors already had lived and worked, Marius Ramus, Paul Dubois and Alfred Boucher, whose works are also exhibited in the Musée Camille Claudel. The museum exhibits 250 works including 200 sculptures, documents and a selection of eight documentaries, which are projected in two screening rooms. The museum is open from Wednesday to Saturday from 11am to 6pm and Sunday from 11am to 7pm. 10 rue Gustave Flaubert, 10400 Nogent-sur-Seine, 03 25 24 76 34 SNCF train from the Gare de l’Est to Nogent-Sur-Seine w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 51

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

CATHEDRALE DE LA SAINTE-TRINITE

EIFFEL TOWER

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

This Russian Orthodox cathedral is located in the Russian Orthodox spiritual and cultural centre. Its five smooth gold onion domes covered in 90,000 leaves of gold are topped by Russian orthodox crosses with the highest standing at over 36 metres. Daily 10am-12pm and 3pm-7pm. 1 Quai Branly (7th). M° Alma-Marceau

Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10-25€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

Arc de Triomphe 52 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

La Conciergerie

Eiffel Tower

Photos iStock 2017 : View © Maria Pavlova; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy

The view from the Notre-Dame

Photos iStock 2017 : Luxembourg Garden © Kenneth Wiedemann; Notre-Dame Cathedral © Deejpilot; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Place des Vosges © Full Nikada; Pont des Arts / Institute of France © Jacob Thue; Sacré-Coeur © Octav Dragan; Sainte-Chapelle © dennisvdw ;Tuileries Garden © Consu1961

Luxembourg Garden

Panthéon

Sacré-Coeur

LUXEMBOURG GARDEN

PANTHEON

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE

This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon

An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Through to March 4 Marie Curie, une femme au Panthéon, an exhibition devoted to the illustrious scientist, Marie Curie. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 10€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 10€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

Place des Vosges

PLACE DES VOSGES

Notre-Dame Cathedral

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS

One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Through to March 3 Patrice Chéreau, this exhibition showcases the creative process of the opera and theatre director. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

Sainte Chapelle

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Pont des Arts

PONT DES ARTS

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).

The Tuileries Garden w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 53

Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

PAVILLONS DE BERCY | Attractions 54 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Catacombes de Paris

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty

(14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. M° Quai de la Gare

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

GALERIE BARTOUX ELYSÉES | Art Galleries

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

Pavillons de Bercy

Château de Versailles

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

BOAT CRUISES

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

GUIDED TOURS

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative

RIVER LIMOUSINE | Boat Cruises

L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot,

CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU | Museums & Foundations w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 55

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma

In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Le Grand Musée du Parfum

The world of perfume unfolds in this museum devoted to perfume and the art of perfume making, one of France’s leading industries. Located in a beautiful private mansion, the museum takes the visitor on a historical and sensorial quest. The visit is highly interactive with videos and devices used to try out the fragrances and scents found along the way which include many of the raw materials used in perfume making. Tues-Sun 10:30am-7pm. 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.25.44. M° Miromesnil

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and

design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private

FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON | Museums & Fondations 56 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS | Museums & Fondations

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Musée du Vin

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of

Musée Rodin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET | Museums & Fondations

Palais Galliera Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

11 Conti - Monnaie de Paris This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

PALAIS DE TOKYO | Museums & Fondations w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

The Guide

DINING

Contemporary Cuisine | Bistros | Italian Fare | Tapas | Dinner Cruises

Dine on pizza and pasta at The Little Italy (page 60)

58 WH ER E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

DINING

Restaurants

Contemporary Tastes After a distinguished career that has included stints in the kitchens of Paul Bocuse, Le Bristol, Noma and restaurants in London, Florence and Tokyo, young Mexican born chef Indra Carrillo has opened his own restaurant, La Condesa, in a stylishly decorated storefront in the decidedly food-loving 9th arrondissement. Carillo’s tasting menus evolve constantly according to the seasons and what inspires him in the market, but dishes like butternut-squash-filled agnolotti in pumpkin bouillon with hot pepper oil, kombu marinated veal with green beans, seaweed, and mushroom emulsion, and watermelon gelée with hibiscus sorbet, and Mezcal show off a cuisine that is serene, sensual, international and very personal. – Alexander Lobrano La Condesa 17 rue Rodier (9th), 01 53 20 94 90

Dinner with Friends Friends & Family by name, friends and family by nature. This recently opened restaurant sees two childhood friends embark on quite the culinary adventure along with 50 of their closest friends and family. Focusing on serving good food with a welcome smile, Friends & Family feels like dining at a friend’s home with a cosy décor, a not too fussy attitude and generous servings. In the kitchen chef Elodie Jego is inspired by each season’s offerings with the menu changing every month with a culinary celebration of each new season. The current menu sees a risotto-style fregola pasta dish tossed in with wild mushrooms, sea bass delicately topped with a celery mousseline and a red wine sauce, while vegetarians are treated to off-menu options that Jego creates with the season’s offerings, which could include a medley of pan-tossed vegetables beautifully presented on a bed of hummus and seasoned with herbs and spices. Before settling the bill make sure you leave room for the house’s standout dessert, the French toast-style brioche served in a wickedly delicious pool of homemade salted caramel sauce. With a 3-course meal sitting at a modest 33€ this restaurant is very popular, so make sure you call ahead. - S.I. Friends & Family 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01 45 23 33 33 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 59

DINING

Restaurants

Dining à la Italienne in Paris It seems that lately you cannot swing a freshly-baked baguette without hitting a new Italian restaurant, with one seemingly opening every week. From family-style servings to gluten-free pizza it is an Italian showdown in Paris. The latest offering comes from The Little Italy, taking a leaf out of the Big Mama Group’s playbook it serves up Italian comfort food for affordable prices. On the menu diners can indulge in delicious woodfired pizza, fresh pasta including pesto pasta with the just-right-amount-of-tang served with creamy burrata, and black truffle risotto. The desserts here are just as authentic with the classic tiramisu the creamiest in the city while the gelati here is made from scratch every day. - S.I. The Little Italy 5 Place de Clichy (17th), 01 42 93 61 34

Italian Roots Tucked away in the atmospheric Passage des Panoramas, one of Paris’s delightful covered 18th century passageways, Racines has been a local favourite ever since it was opened by Pierre Jancou as a modern wine bar with a short excellent contemporary French bistro menu ten years ago. Now, it’s become the new perch for the extremely Sardinian born chef Simone Tondo, who first became well-known in Paris when he was cooking at the now defunct restaurant Roseval in the 19th arrondissement. At Racines, Tondo puts his Italian roots forward with a chalkboard menu of beautifully prepared dishes that are prepared from first-rate Italian produce he sources himself and which changes daily. Depending on the day, you might start with a silky potato velouté garnished with red mullet, grilled langoustines, or mozzarella with Treviso. Mains may include homemade pappardelle in tomato-sausage sauce, griddled scallops with salad, or juicy grilled veal chop. The dessert not to miss is the light-as-afeather tiramisu, and there’s a great selection of organic and biodynamic wines from Italy. A charming address for a really good feed. – A.L. Racines 8 passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01 40 13 06 41 60 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

DINING

Restaurants

French Comfort Food Looking for a lively but easy-going and excellent casual French meal in the Marais? Head for chef Tsuyoshi Miyakazi’s cosy little restaurant with whitewashed stonewalls, low lighting and both table and bar seating. It’s been one of the most popular tables in the neighbourhood ever since it opened last autumn, and it only takes a single meal to see why. For openers, service directed by amiable co-owner Enguerrand Cantegrel is charming, and there’s a great cocktail list if you want a drink before dinner. Next, the menu is a great roster of beautifully made cosmopolitan comfort food dishes, including tacos filled with squid, avocado and tomato or a salad of roasted beets with raspberries and Gorgonzola, both starters. Next up in the small-plates line-up, try their version of a chicken Caesar salad or the beef filet with burrata, tomato and pesto. Finish up with the tiramisu with chocolate crumble, and note that they pour a great selection of wines by the glass. – A.L. Mr T 38 rue de Saintonge (3rd), 01 42 71 15 34

Tapas Dining A welcome addition to the popular Marais neighbourhood comes in the form of the Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers where nestled beneath a glass ceiling is the hotel’s dining establishment. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant is a great meeting spot for designers and artists, where the ambiance means more to them than the actual cuisine, and this is exactly where the table does not disappoint, with lush vegetation and a chic industrial feel creating a cool atmosphere for enjoying a glass of wine. Food-wise, this is a welcome spot for sharing antipasti dishes, grilled vegetables, tempura-style vegetables and shaved prosciutto, although the best table is the restaurant’s adjoining bar, which serves Venetian-style tapas where diners can nibble on fresh burrata while sipping on a cocktail. - S.I. Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers 243 rue Saint-Martin (3rd), 01 80 97 22 80 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 61

DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

LE CINQ CODET Classic French / Paris 7th In the heart of the 7th arrondissement, a stone’s throw away from the Invalides, this intimate address is perfect for a business lunch or a dinner with friends. Emphasising seasonal products, Antoine K’ros creates refreshing menus. The restaurant boasts a patio, tranquil and serene, where diners can lunch or dine or just enjoy signature cocktails with tapas or platters of charcuterie and cheese. Every Saturday night the restaurant hosts jazz night. A la carte from 12€ 5 rue Louis Codet, Paris 7th Metro: Ècole Militaire Tel. +33 (0)1 53 85 15 60 www.le5codet.com

DINING

Cruises

Dinner on the Seine Combine two of the incredible things that make Paris unique, amazing architecture and refined fare, and enjoy French cuisine as you take in the City of Light’s breathtaking monuments aboard a Bateaux Parisiens boat. As the city’s lights are reflected on the Seine you are invited to feast on a dinner prepared on-board by the chef with French delicacies taking centre stage on your plate. Start with foie gras or escargots as you pass the Eiffel Tower then try the sea bass served with quinoa as you glide beside the Notre-Dame before enjoying French cheese with a glass of wine. The boat leaves precisely at 8.30pm every evening for the dinner cruise so be sure you reserve and arrive a little bit earlier so you literally do not miss the boat. - S.I. Bateaux Parisiens Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08 25 01 01 01

A Gliding Meal There are few experiences of Paris more romantic than a night cruise on the Seine, since most of the thirty-seven bridges that cross it are beautifully illuminated after dark, as are such famed monuments and churches as the Eiffel Tower and the cathedral of Notre Dame. The Yachts de Paris, attractively furnished with anthracite-and-blue carpet with an art-deco motif and leather tub chairs set at comfortably spaced white-linen dressed tables ornamented with potted orchids, offers you a first row seat to the city. In such a setting, the amuse bouche, or introductory hors d’oeuvre, served as the gastronomic sextant for the meal, and in this case it did so beautifully. A fresh and very appealing quenelle of dressed crabmeat with diced mango and puffed quinoa exhibited real sophistication and was very satisfying. Next, the starter of Canadian lobster medallions with daikon and mushroom milk was delicious, too. The main course of roast chicken served in two courses, the first with chestnuts and parsnips, the second with sautéed foie gras, was succulent, flavourful and deeply satisfying. Meanwhile, the beauty of Paris gliding by in slow motion was spellbinding, as was the Eiffel Tower in its glittering elegance, perfectly timed for the arrival of our excellent dessert, a delicious chocolate Eiffel Tower filled with blackcurrant gelée. – A.L Yachts de Paris Pont Henri IV (4th), 01 44 54 14 70 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 63

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. There are several eateries on the premises as well as tasting counters. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent,

carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The three-storey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

Vintage&Cie

Exceptional wines are found in this shop, which specialises in grands crus, old vintages and rare wines. The boutique also offers a selection of champagnes and spirits as well as an eclectic range of more accessible wines. Every Thursday evening between 6pm and 8pm the house holds tastings open to the public to discover a wine, champagne or a spirit and the tasting room in the wine cellar can be privatised. The house also offers advice for constituting a wine cellar and private space in its own cellars to store your wine. 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.70.98.43. M° Ternes

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef JeanFrançois Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

CLOVER GRILL | Steakhouse (1st) 64 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

DJAKARTA BALI | Indonesian (1st)

DINING

Address Book

weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic

(€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad.

4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas.

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE CÉLADON | Gourmet (2nd)

RELAIS LOUIS XIII | Classic French (6th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 65

DINING

Address Book AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th)

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of

homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

MANKO PARIS | Peruvian (8th) 66 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

LE CAMONDO | Contemporary (8th)

DINING

Address Book nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. For starters sample sautéed mushrooms or creamy butternut squash soup, a delicious main course is the veal cutlet served in the pan and you can wind up with a cheese plate followed by a chocolate mousse flavoured with passion fruit. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed

atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th)

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet, 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

YEEELS | Contemporary (8th)

MAMA SHELTER PARIS | Contemporary (20th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 67

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

Have fun at cocktail hour at Shake n’ Smash (page 70)

68 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

Love Lost Drama, love and friendship make the famous opera of Eugene Onegin one of the most heartbreaking stories ever told. Based on the verse novel written by Alexander Pushkin in 1878, the Tchaikovsky-scored opera tells the story of Eugene Onegin, a rich Russian playboy, who inadvertently ends his friendship with Vladimir Lensky with irreversible consequences, and how his arrogance stood in the way of a romance between the timid Tatyana and himself. The latest interpretation of this beautiful and sad opera that draws on how pride and remorse can alter one’s life course is choreographed by John Cranko and is being played out at Opéra Garnier through to the 7th of March. Opéra Garnier Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01 71 25 24 23

The Beat of their Own Drum Dance to the beat of Fills Monkey’s drums and their unique and incredible show. Sébastien Rambaud and Yann Coste are the duo behind the energetic drum show that not only showcases the artists’ talents on the drums but also their sense of humour. Part music show, part comedy show, the Fills Monkey is an energetic and original show that has already entertained audiences around the world and is now showing at Paris’s Le Comedia through to the 8th of April. Tickets at Fnac. Le Comedia 4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th), 01 42 38 22 22 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 69

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Abracadabra! Who doesn’t love magic and the fascination with how the magicians do what they do? For real fans of magic, this month will mark a magical moment when one of Europe’s most famous magicians, Dani Lary, whose career has spanned twenty years, will bring his all-new show Tic Tac to L’Olympia for two shows only on the 3rd and 4th of March. The master of illusion is bringing together his most famous magic tricks together, including making a piano lift up in the air, to create his most mind-blowing show yet. In the mythical concert hall sit back and watch the over-the-top show that will leave you thinking, “How did he do that?” Tickets at Fnac. L’Olympia 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08 92 68 33 68

Worldly Cocktails Head barman Axel Amasse has turned to the world for different inspirations for his cocktails for Shake n’ Smash, the cocktail bar in the very trendy 3rd arrondissement. Using different spirits and spices from around the world, Amasse’s cocktail menu is fun to read and very easy to drink. The Canadian Lumberjack is a sweet and spicy mix of rye whisky, earl grey tea, maple syrup and ginger while the Salut Tu Suze is a refreshing mix of gin, Suze, lime and Thai basil. The cocktails can be enjoyed in the main room or in the recently opened Cabinet of Curiosities with a décor inspired by the travels of Phileas Fogg in Around the World in Eighty Days. The bar is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm and also organises workshops for 4 to 14 people so you can learn how to mix your own drinks. Simply call 01 42 72 30 76 or email contact@shakensmash.com to organise your two-hour lesson. Shake n’ Smash 87 rue de Turbigo (3rd), 01 42 72 30 76 70 W HER E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

“Learning to be French through Comedy”

s tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light.

Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 500 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY @ 7PM + SUNDAY @ 6PM BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Bubble Time It is one of France’s favourite beverages and now Champagne is being celebrated at the recently opened Bubble Suite, a new bar at the Hilton Paris Opera hotel. The Bubble Suite by Champagne Collet champagne bar puts the spotlight on everyone’s favourite drink and has created Bubble Time. Moving high tea to the side, Bubble Time pairs 6 cuvées with savoury canapés and presents 3 champagne cocktails including the Origami, which mixes Champagne Collet Brut Art Déco with yuzu and matcha tea. The bar is open Wednesday to Friday, from 5 to 10pm. Bubble Suite by Champagne Collet Hilton Paris Opera Hotel 108 rue Saint-Lazare (8th), 01 40 08 44 44

Going to the Chapel

Café A 148 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin (10th), 07 71 61 10 38 72 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

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Located in the former Récollets convent, Café A is a hipster’s dream come true for a drink in Paris. Winning the 2017 Welcome Awards by CIWY Have a Drink award, Café A boasts a garden and different spaces in the convent’s old chapel where you are invited to enjoy guilt-free cocktails. The Café A is open daily and organises fun events such as La Fête du Gin Tonic, The Gin Tonic Festival, which celebrates the classic cocktail. Open Monday to Saturday until 2am, though the garden closes at 11pm, and open until 5pm on Sundays.

Agence Rio Grande - Studios FOCALE 3

A treasure given by nature

boizel.fr

L'ABUS D'ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ, À CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION.

Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

74 W HE R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

Crazy Horse

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 175€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM 175€ - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM 77€

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Ice Kube Paris

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up

MOONSHINER | Bars & Wine Bars (11th) 76 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Kléber Bar

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

Moonshiner

Pershing Hall

Hidden away off the Champs-Elysées in a 19th century mansion occupied by General Pershing during World War I, this hotel bar lounge is cosy, fun and serves original cocktails including the SparklingLalique. 49 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.58.36.58.00. M° George V

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

CASINO Casinos Barrière

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

JAZZ CLUBS Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel

BUDDHA BAR | Bars & Wine Bars (8th)

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama

NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Mona Lisa

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty

LES JARDINS DU PONT NEUF

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

| Bars & Wine Bars (1st)

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

LE BEL CANTO

| Magical & Opera Shows (4th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 77

The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

PARIS DISTRICTS

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62,

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. 8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops. 9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann. 10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8 ), th

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde 78 W HER E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8 ), th

01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower. 18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

HAIR SALONS

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (4246 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT

The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La MottePicquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La MottePicquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

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Visitors Bureau Reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centres. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 25 rue des Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides. Opening Hours: From November 1st to April 30th, 10am to 7pm. Other branches include Gare du Nord (10th), Gare de l’Est (10th), Paris Rendez-vous (4th) M° Hôtel de Ville. www.parisinfo.com

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SERVICES

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

80 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

JEAN-EMMANUEL MENDES

HEAD CONCIERGE AT HOTEL LA LANTERNE

Le Printemps du Goût

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? I would suggest they see one of the great exhibitions of the moment and arrange a fast pass ticket to avoid the lines and I would arrange for a private guide with a private driver in order to discover the main monuments of Paris. For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? I would recommend Le Petit Pontoise for its Parisian atmosphere. Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? In my opinion the best view of the city is from the towers of Notre Dame de Paris cathedral. 82 W HE RE PA R I S I M A R C H 2018

Notre-Dame

L’Arc

La Truffière

It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? I love those trendy places such as L’Arc and Matignon.

dedicated to food on the two upper floors of the Men’s Store.

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? Rue Saint-Honoré for me is the most representative of Paris when it comes to fashion. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? For an exceptional romantic dinner La Truffière is a perfect gourmet place. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? The new Printemps du Goût, a space

What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? I recently discovered Les Belles Envies at 3 rue Monge, a wonderful place with lowglycemic sweets for diabetics and people looking to eat a healthier diet.

My Perfect Day 9am: Hammam and swim at La Lanterne Hotel 12pm: Lunch at La Pie Noir restaurant, a traditional French restaurant with Brittany inspirations. 3pm: A walk along the River Seine banks, and by Ile de la Cité and Ile Saint-Louis 9pm: Dinner at Les Troublions, specialising in French bistronomy

where

Your Guide to the World

Les Belles Envies © Thomas O’Brien; Notre-Dame iStock 2018 photo vichie81; La Truffière DR; L’Arc DR; Printemps du Goût DR

Les Belles Envies

AMERICAN ICONS

Detail: Tom Wesselmann, Sunset Nude (Variation 1). 2002, 172 x 193 cm

16 - 30 MARCH 2018

62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris | T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 | paris@operagallery.com | operagallery.com New York Miami Aspen London Paris Monaco Geneva Dubai Beirut Hong Kong Singapore Seoul Zurich

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